ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 5 NO.1 :: MAY 2016
MOTHER’S DAY EATS & DRINKS
ON THE MAP! 15
NOTABLE ALBERTAN’S GO-TO DISHES Natural Wines | 3 Unorthodox Alberta Steakhouses | 5 Cool Okanagan Wineries
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44 VOLUME 5 / ISSUE #1 MAY 2016
Features 12
Food and Family Six years ago, Teresa Spinelli’s future was decided for her, but the success of the Italian Centre Shops stems from her love of the job and the people by Twyla Campbell
22 Not your Daddy’s Steakhouse The glorious meat-loving tradition is alive and well, but here are three great examples of delicious variations on a classic Alberta steakhouse by Mary Bailey
30 Menu Gems from Alberta Media Personalities There’s no shortage of amazing eats in our province. 15 personalities across the province share their go-to choices for a failsafe meal out by Mallory Frayn
35
Spritz Up Your Spring! Sparkling wine cocktails for Mother’s Day by Patricia Koyich
44 Natural Wines A New Look at Old Methods by Jaclyn Adomeit
Departments
48 Drinking Japanese The search for single malt in Japan by Lisa Kadane
8 Off The Menu – Whitehall’s Double Baked Cheese Soufflé
38 Making the Case … for Italian wines by Tom Firth
40 Hot Okanagan 5 cool wineries for 2016 by Jeannette Montgomery
50 Open That Bottle: From Prosthetics to Park Kara Chomistek of Park (Promoting Artists, Redefining Kulture) by Linda Garson
6
Salutes and Shout Outs
9
Book Review
10
Soup Kitchen
14
Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!
18
Spice It Up Perogies
28 Step-By-Step: Beet-Cured Salmon
On the Cover: Many thanks to Ingrid Kuenzel for her photographic skills; North 53 and Duchess Bake Shop in Edmonton; and Briggs Kitchen and Bar, The Beltliner, and Raw Bar at Hotel Arts in Calgary, for their culinary creations!
3
Letter From The Editor
distribution from 146 locations in Calgary to many, many more in Edmonton. Now, we’ll not only continue to celebrate the food and beverage scene in Calgary and the mountains, we’ll be including talent in Edmonton and throughout Alberta – and there’s a lot to tell you about. It’s a very exciting time for Culinaire; we’re able to include more varied content that includes coverage of Alberta’s culinary leaders and stories, and articles from first-class Edmonton writers too. Did you notice our banner now says ‘Alberta’ instead of ‘Calgary’?
We’re four years old this month!
Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief
Oops, we mistakenly said in our March issue that Brewsters opened in 1995. We’ve since learned that 11 Avenue SW, Calgary, opened in 1991, and Oliver Square in Edmonton, in 1995. Apologies!
brazilian barbecue
That’s no mean feat in the publishing world, especially in a tough economic climate. And to celebrate, we’re proud to announce our BIG NEWS – starting with this issue, we have increased our print run by a third more – to 20,000 copies, ten times a year, and expanded our
For all our new Edmonton readers – welcome! You’ll now get to see the results of the Alberta Beverage Awards too in our October issue, where we announce the coveted Best in Class, Judges’ Selection and Top Value awards for alcoholic beverages available for purchase in restaurants and liquor stores in Alberta.
I’d also like to say a personal thank you to everyone who participated in our 2nd Annual Treasure Hunt in April. It was a ginormous day, with well over 100 people racing round the city to 30 destinations to try their hand at fun and delicious tasks, and receive rewards! Everyone went home a multiple winner, and I loved to see everybody having such fun, and our destinations, that are all supporters of Culinaire, filled with enthusiastic and knowledgeable foodies! We were trending on Twitter – thanks again to all our generous destinations, and to all our registered teams! Prepare for an even bigger hunt next year!
authentic.
The way it should be.
Experience the bold flavours and original taste of Churrasco, an authentic barbecue style made famous by Gauchos - the cowboys of South America.
C A N MO R E
629 Main Street phone:403 .678.9886 C A L G A RY
100 5920 Macleod Trail SW phone:403 .45 4.9119
w w w. b r a z i l i a n b b q . c a
Mother’s Day is Sunday, May 8
ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Commercial Director: Keiron Gallagher 403-975-7177 sales@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Sales Director: Lisa Wolansky 587-338-8780 lisa@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Digital Media Editor: Anna Brooks web@culinairemagazine.ca
Our Contributors < Mary Bailey
Food, wine, and travel writer, Mary Bailey, is the publisher of The Tomato Food & Drink. Mary holds the WSET Diploma and is a certified sommelier. She co-authored two best-selling books The Food Lover’s Trail Guide To Alberta, Volumes I & II, and is on the board of the Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance. She is a national Gold Medal Plates/Canadian Culinary Championships judge, and a 2015 Global Woman of Vision.
Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Jaclyn Adomeit Mary Bailey Twyla Campbell Mallory Frayn Karlynn Johnston Lisa Kadane Renee Kohlman Patricia Koyich Robyn Maclean Jeannette Montgomery Mel Priestley
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
< Karlynn Johnston
Full-time blogger, baker and recipe maker, Karlynn can usually be found fluffing her culinary feathers on her award-winning website, The Kitchen Magpie. When she’s not there, she’s busy avoiding her deadlines by sneaking away to eat at her favourite Edmonton restaurants, finding a new bourbon cocktail, or playing on social media. Her first cookbook, Flapper Pie & A Blue Prairie Sky, will be on shelves this fall. Follow Karlynn @kitchenmagpie.
If the shoe fits eat it ! We handcraft and handpaint each stiletto using our delicious couverture chocolate then fill it with a delectable assortment of chocolates, including award-winners from the 2015 International Chocolate Awards.
Also available for Mom — our award-winning Sea Salt Caramels
< Lisa Kadane
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Lisa is an award-winning travel and lifestyle journalist who has been telling stories from around the globe since 1997. She is a regular contributor to the Calgary Herald, Avenue Magazine, WestJet Magazine and Today’s Parent, and her work has also appeared in many national publications. When not writing or blogging at lisakadane.com, you’ll find Lisa skiing or hiking with her family, sampling cocktails around town, and planning her next adventure.
11 calgary locations and 1 in banff www.cococochocolatiers.com www.bernardcallebaut.com
All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
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Salutes... Safe Sound Levels
May is Speech & Hearing Month, and Hear Alberta is celebrating restaurants where the volume allows for fun and conversation. Nominate your favourite restaurant, where you can enjoy yourself and still chat, at hearalberta.ca, for the Safe Sound Awards. You could win a prize pack to a sound-friendly venue!
Congrats to Turner Valley’s Eau Claire Distillery
… on winning a Silver Medal in the gin category for Parlour Gin at the 2016 San Francisco World Spirits Competition, considered to be the most influential spirits competition in the world. The distillery also won ‘Canada Gin Distillery of the Year’ at the Berlin
International Spirits Competition, where Parlour Gin was also named third overall gin internationally across 22 countries. Way to go Eau Claire!
donate servings of pasta to Canada’s food banks, with a goal of reaching one million donated servings across the country. Download the free cookbook at catelli.ca or facebook.com/catelli, and enter the draw to win one of three pasta dinners cooked at your home by Chef Flegel or one of the other participating chefs!
Call for Chefs!
Chef David Flegel’s Fusilli Recipe
Trendy Foods Cookbook Supports Local Food Banks
Hyatt Regency Hotel, Calgary, Executive Chef David Flegel, is featured in a new digital cookbook, ‘Pasta to the Rescue: Hot Summer Dishes for Busy Families’. For every download, or share of the cookbook or its recipes, Catelli Foods will
Back for another exciting year of culinary competitions, tastings, and unique dining experiences, Medicine Hat’s 4th annual Sunshine Skillet Food Festival will be held on May 13 and 14. Using local and regional ingredients, both professional and amateur chefs of all skill levels are invited to battle it out for Top Chef status, $1,000 prize, and the opportunity to advance to the Canadian Food Championships this summer. Interested in participating? Spots are limited, so head to sunshineskillet.com to register!
and Shout Outs... Pins, Pints and Pizza
River Forth Dining Car
Luxury Dining On The Rails
The River Forth Dining Car at Heritage Park Historical Village is back! Reservations are now available for pre-booked lunches and private evening functions, every Tuesday from May 24 to August 30. The 1929 dining car seats 36, and features a historically inspired three-course menu with wine. While lunch doesn’t include Park admission, a discounted admission is available for non-annual pass holders. A memorable experience! 6
The good times are rolling in Banff, with the opening of bowling alley and beer hall, ‘High Rollers’, in the lower level of Clock Tower Mall. There are six ten-pin bowling lanes and two bocce courts, with hand-stretched 18-inch ‘New York’ style pizzas, piled high with toppings like Mac n’ Cheese and sliced housemade meatballs, ricotta & pepperoncini on offer, as well as other classic bowling alley favourites. Not to mention the 48 draught taps all topped with hand painted bowling pins. No time to bowl? High Rollers has a takeaway counter!
Third location for Village Ice Cream
Congrats to the team at Village Ice Cream who have worked so hard for their success. Now, in addition to the original Calgary location at 10 Avenue
SE, and second location in Britannia Plaza, they’ve opened a new location in Marda Loop, at 2406 34th Ave SW.
First Gyu Kaku for Alberta
Widespread in the US and Japan, this Japanese ‘Yakiniku’ BBQ restaurant has now opened on 6 Ave SW, Calgary. Here, you’ll be your own chef, choosing your meat and your sauce, and cooking it yourself on the BBQ in the table. Or choose a ‘bibimbap’ stone bowl, or one of the Canadian dishes, such as spicy salmon avocado salad, and tuna poke. It’s a busy place and best to reserve, specially for the private 10/12-seat ‘Cow Room’ with patchwork hide on the walls. And with your first 12oz glass of Sapporo for $2, and the same menu for happy hour as the regular menu but at reduced prices, you won’t break the bank here.
I NTRODUCING
A Farmer’s Wine.
KLEIN / HARRIS
Welcome KLEIN / HARRIS
… to 8 Avenue SW, Calgary, in the old Home Tasting Room location. A long-time passion project of Raw Bar’s Christina Mah and Chef James Waters of Diner Deluxe and Home Tasting Room, this Canadiana-themed restaurant features bare wood floors and muted colours, a custom floorto-ceiling spirits display, and clever cardboard moose, bear and buffalo heads. Chef Waters’ True North menu is split into roots/stalks, tides/currents, and wild/farm, with generous portions, and complemented by Mah’s classic and creative cocktail program. Stop by for the weekday One Punch Lunch, where the daily feature with choice of sides comes with soup and two butter tarts, as well as a coffee or mocktail – for just $16!
And to Pure Vietnamese …
further west on 8 Avenue SW, Calgary. Famous for his Kim Chi Fried Rice at Watercress Express, Chef Lam Pham and his sister Annie, have now opened a contemporary kitchen and bar serving up beautifully presented, modern Viet dishes such as the signature Char Siu Sesame Donuts, as well as solid, traditional pho, vermicelli stir fry, and baos. Drop in for a satisfying lunch, or share a familystyle dinner with friends.
wine Every great story. tells a T his one starts with a farmer.
Off The Menu photograph by DAN CLAPSON
Can there be any dish more instagrammed, tweeted, or appeared on facebook pages of foodies in Calgary this year? Whitehall’s Double-Baked Cheese Soufflé is legendary, and thanks to Chef Neil McCue, we’re delighted to bring you the recipe everyone’s asking for. Whitehall’s Double Baked Cheese Soufflé Serves 3-4
50 g all purpose flour 50 g unsalted butter 200 mL milk 4 egg yolks 450 mL egg white 150 g cheese, grated Extra soft butter and ground almonds for moulds (Whitehall uses Le 1608, alternatives could be Gruyere, Emmental, or a good quality cooking cheese)
Before you start: • Weigh out all your ingredients separately • Have your soufflé moulds buttered and coated with ground almonds • Preheat oven to 350º F
1. Place egg white whites in stand
mixer bowl and start whisking slowly.
2. Bring milk to a simmer on the stove, then remove.
3. Melt butter in a pot and when
melted, quickly whisk in flour and season to form a roux. Continue to whisk, then
pour warm milk over and whisk until smooth. Remove from heat and whisk in cheese until fully incorporated.
4. Increase speed on egg whites to
high, and meanwhile transfer cheese mixture to a bowl, whisk in egg yolks.
5. Once egg whites have formed
stiff peaks, fold gently through the cheese mixture with a slotted spoon.
6. Scoop equal amounts into each mould until level with top.
7. Place the soufflés into a deep
baking dish, and half fill with water.
8. Bake for 14 minutes, let
soufflés rest for 5 minutes before removing them from moulds and leave to cool completely. To Re-Bake Cream, seasoned Grated Cheese
1. In an ovenproof dish wider than the soufflé, place approximately 25 g of grated cheese onto each soufflé, and cover with 50 mL of cream.
2. Pace on the top shelf of oven
preheated to 375º F, and bake for 10 minutes.
3. Serve immediately.
8
Book Review
by MEL PRIESTLEY
Food Artisans of the Okanagan
The entries on each producer are brief, offering a bit of their story but leaving most of the discovery up to the reader. Interspersed between the words are colourful photographs, many taken by Cockrall-King herself: portraits of people behind the food, and snapshots of the Okanagan’s world-famous scenery.
by Jennifer Cockrall-King TouchWood Editions 2016, $24.95
The list of foodie destinations in the Okanagan is seemingly endless, and the spectacular landscape is enough to render even the most jaded urbanite speechless. Where do you start? Food Artisans of the Okanagan aims to solve that conundrum by highlighting some of the producers who have been carving out their niche in the Okanagan and neighbouring Similkameen. It’s the second book by food author Jennifer Cockrall-King, who has spent the last decade splitting her time between Edmonton and Naramata. Wine lovers will need to look elsewhere: this book showcases the area’s veggie farmers, beekeepers and ranchers,
cideries and chefs. It’s not a definitive guide, but rather an enticing taster of the food and drink on offer. With an eye to the area’s many microclimates, ‘Food Artisans’ is organized geographically, spanning the fertile green valley in the north around Armstrong and Vernon, to the parched desert in the south near Oliver and Osoyoos.
The book was designed with the road tripper in mind: a solid travel guide size with a bit of heft, but still compact enough to fit comfortably in your glovebox. The covers have a flap that can serve as bookmarks when you’re on the road. Possibly most useful of all are the maps of each sub-region: no more missing exits on the Okanagan’s notoriously under-signed highways. Mel Priestley is a food and wine writer, editor, journalist and author. One day she’ll find the perfect pairing for cheezies. Follow her on Twitter @melpriestley
calgary international
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beerfest THANK YOU
Thank you to our sponsors, including Culinaire, in helping make our festival a huge success! Please join us for the Edmonton Craft Beer Festival June 3 & 4 in the Expo Centre at Northlands. Buy tickets @ AN
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Soup Kitchen story and photography by DAN CLAPSON
It’s not worth getting that excited about May long weekend because we all know that it’s probably going to snow anyway. But, do you know what is worth getting excited about? Asparagus season. That’s right, I put asparagus above a long weekend, but it’s all for good reason. The vegetable’s growing season is so short and it’s just about here. So, you’ve got to get cooking while the asparagus is fresh; at least that’s what my grandma always tells me.
Here is a delicious and easy soup below using BBQ chicken thighs, and a recipe for a soup to make with the phenomenal and locally grown asparagus that you can find from Edgar Farms through Innisfail Growers. Walk, don’t run.
Barbecue Chicken And Green Bean Soup Since it’s back to barbecue season again (finally!), throw a few extra chicken thighs on the grill to make a batch of this barbecue sauce-inspired soup for a rainy day. Serves 4-5 Total cook time 40 minutes 6 cups (1½ L) chicken broth 2 cans Scarpone’s fire-roasted tomatoes 1 Tbs brown sugar 1 Tbs (15 mL) red wine vinegar 1 Tbs (15 mL) ketchup 1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire sauce ½ tsp chili powder 1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced 1 cup diced fresh green beans 6 chicken thighs, grilled and thinly sliced To taste, salt and pepper
1. Place first 7 ingredients in a large
pot on medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Stir well and let cook for 20 minutes. 10
2. Next, add in red onion and cook
until tender, about 6-8 minutes. Add green beans and chicken meat to the pot and continue to cook for 10 more minutes.
3. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.
Roast Asparagus And Prawn Soup With Lemon Chili Oil
Serves 4 Total cook time 35 minutes
2. Place all the lemon chili oil
1 bunch asparagus (ends trimmed) 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil
ingredients in a small bowl, and stir well to combine. Set aside until ready to serve.
Lemon chili oil:
3. To make the soup, place the first 6
½ cup (120 mL) canola oil 1 Tbs lemon zest 1 Tbs finely chopped green onion 1 garlic clove, minced ½ tsp chili flakes ¼ tsp salt
4. Remove aromatics, add in thinly
Soup: 6 cups (1½ L) vegetable broth 1 cup (240 mL) white wine ½ cm piece ginger root 2 cloves garlic 1 Tbs (15 mL) honey 1 tsp (5 mL) rice wine vinegar 1 cup small white potatoes, very thinly sliced 16 medium prawns, raw and peeled
Preheat oven to 400º F.
1. Place asparagus on baking sheet,
drizzle with canola oil and roast for 15 minutes. Remove from oven, let cool slightly and chop roughly. Set aside for now.
ingredients in a medium pot, and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat. Reduce to medium heat and let simmer for 25 minutes. sliced potatoes, and allow to cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from pot and set aside for now.
6. Add-in prawns and cook until tender and cooked through, about 2-3 minutes.
7. To serve, distribute cooked potato
slices into each bowl along with chopped roasted asparagus and prawns, and ladle hot broth overtop. Garnish liberally with lemon chili oil and serve immediately. Asparagus never looked so good in a soup! Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside
Food And Family: The Success Of The Italian Centre Shop
by TWYLA CAMPBELL photography courtesy THE ITALIAN CENTRE SHOP additional photography by INGRID KUENZEL
In 1959, Frank Spinelli’s Italian Centre Shop was so small, the inventory consisted of newspapers, chocolates and cigarettes. As the Italian population in Alberta grew, so did Frank’s business. The tiny store on 95th Street would eventually expand to take up nearly an entire block, and be deemed the foundation of Edmonton’s Little Italy. It is one of four Italian Centre Shops in Alberta, and the one that Frank’s daughter, Teresa, calls home. 12
When Teresa Spinelli was an infant, customers strolled the store with her in their arms. As a baby, she slept in a pram near rows of canned goods, and as a toddler, took her first steps in the pasta aisle. Teresa spent her afterschool hours playing at the store and interacting with employees and shoppers. When old enough, she rang in groceries on the cash register. In this traditional Italian family, Teresa’s brother, Pietro, would be groomed to take over the family business, while
Teresa was expected to marry and have children. Though they worked with their father, the siblings had different visions for the store’s future, and Teresa began to consider a different path in life. She enrolled in university to become a social worker but found the fieldwork depressing. “I hated it. I wanted to take everybody home with me. I couldn’t disconnect.” She missed the store, especially the customers, and returned to help out in the office.
at 18,000 square feet, and the most modern. Unlike the stores in Edmonton, the deli is located in the middle of the space. The most spectacular feature is a 40-foot long, floor to ceiling wall of cheese. There are plans to expand further with more stores in Alberta, Saskatchewan and British Columbia.
One thing remains constant: the foods connect people to a memory Then tragedy struck – not once, but twice. Pietro died in 1996 just four days before his 33rd birthday. Four years later, Frank became ill with cancer, and passed away. Teresa Spinelli’s future had been decided for her; she would become president of the Italian Centre Shop, but assuming that role wouldn’t be easy. The sudden responsibility of leadership forced Teresa to do some soul searching. “I had to believe this was something I really wanted to do, and that I wasn’t just doing it for my dad. I wanted to do it because I loved the job.” The long-standing all-male crew had trouble adapting to the absence of Frank, a man they adored and respected. Teresa worked side by side with each employee, learning about their strengths and what they found challenging. She inquired about what they wanted for their families and their futures. The bonding was gradual, but it came.
Teresa and I are sitting in the store’s café. Our conversation is frequently interrupted by “ciaos” exchanged between Teresa, employees and customers who stroll by. I ask her what the best part is about her job. “The people,” she says with no hesitation. Much has changed since Frank Spinelli first sold his newspapers and cigarettes in 1959, yet some things remain the same. Tradition and family are still important. Massimo, Teresa’s son, will be expected to step into the role of president when the time comes. Nothing would make her happier, Teresa says, but she is keenly aware that he will have to make the same decision as she did in 2000: if he’s going to do it, he will need to do it for the right reasons. “He loves being here. He loves people. Maybe when he’s sixteen, it’ll be a different story. He might take over the store, but he needs to do what makes him happy.” There are four Italian Centre Shops now with 500 employees on the payroll. The south-side location in Edmonton opened in 2006, followed by the west-end store a few years later. Calgary’s first Italian Centre Shop opened on Fairmount Drive SE, in 2015. It is the largest store
The stores may differ in size and layout, but one thing remains constant: the foods connect people to a memory. It’s why the Italian Centre Shops will always have that family feel, says Teresa.
In 1959, Frank Spinelli’s Italian Centre Shop was so small, the inventory consisted of newspapers, chocolates and cigarettes
I take a stroll through the familiar corridors. The aisles are still crowded and product is sometimes not where you expect. There is order and disorder. As usual, people are lined up at the deli counter. I take a ticket and stand in line. I know the names of the meats and cheeses displayed in the cabinet, by heart. An elderly man, hunched over a cane, looks at me and rattles off something in Italian. I have no idea what he is saying, although I should by now – I’ve been coming here since the 1980s. He thinks I’m Italian, and for just a moment, I feel like I’m part of the family. See italiancentre.ca for store locations. This CBC Edmonton AM restaurant reviewer and freelance writer knows Edmonton inside out, but her travels take her beyond the Prairies, where she eats, drinks and reports back on the best spots in the country. 13
Chefs' Tips Tricks!
Breakfast and Brunch
story by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL
Smoked Salmon Benedict with Preserved Meyer Lemon Hollandaise
Breakfast is no longer just the most important meal of the day. With the help of “brunching” it has morphed into the most anticipated meal of the day, even more so on weekends. So what is it that makes brunch so appealing to the point where it has practically become an essential weekend pastime? 14
Let’s see, perhaps because... It’s the perfect excuse to day drink with friends. Or maybe... You don’t have to decide between your sweet or savoury craving (why not both?) And then there’s the fact that... You can rehash last night’s shenanigans over bacon and eggs or chicken and waffles. Whatever the reason, it’s no wonder brunch culture has taken on a life of it’s own across North America, especially in Alberta, where we have one of the
most vibrant morning dining scenes in Canada. With all of that said, hosting your own brunch at home can be just as fun, just as delicious, and a welcome change in scenery.
Alberta… has one of the most vibrant morning dining scenes in Canada
Here, two Alberta chefs, who know a thing or two about morning meals share a couple of tips and recipes to help inspire you for the next time you’re on hosting duty.
Chef Paul McGreevy
The Beltliner, Calgary O.L.M Culinary Consulting (Former corporate chef for Craft Beer Market) Cooking the perfect breakfast or brunch is no easy task. It can actually be more challenging than both lunch and dinner, and it all comes down to timing and organization. “Timing is crucial,” explains McGreevy. “It’s important to play around and see how you like your eggs and proteins cooked, and adjust your timing accordingly. What really keeps me focused and on top of my game is prep, and that doesn’t just mean dicing ahead of time.” “Eggs Benedict is always a crowdpleaser, but poaching eggs can be challenging, especially for a large group,” he continues. “I like to preassemble all my bases (English muffins
Chef Paul McGreevy
with cheese), then crack the eggs into small bowls to ensure they don’t break when dropping into the water. I always set up multiple pots of poaching water
to speed up the assembly process and serve immediately to maintain the integrity of the egg, whether soft, medium, or hard poached.”
Smoked Salmon Benedict with Preserved Meyer Lemon Hollandaise Serves 4
4 English muffins, halved 4 Tbs Labneh cheese (or cream cheese) 4 tsp preserved Meyer lemon rind, minced 8 sprigs fresh dill 4 Tbs (60 mL) white wine vinegar 4 L water 8 whole eggs 1 lemon, zest and juice 2 tsp (10 mL) white wine vinegar 6 egg yolks ¼ tsp espelette pepper 200 mL clarified butter, warm salt and pepper to taste 8 slices smoked salmon
2. Place ¼ tsp of preserved lemon
7. To poach the eggs, pour 2 litres of
3. For the Hollandaise sauce, put the
8. Stir the water so you have a slight
Heat oven to 375º F
5. Add the preserved lemon rind, salt
1. Cut the English muffins in half,
and spread ½ Tbs of Labneh or cream cheese onto each half, then place onto a baking tray.
rind and a sprig of dill onto each half. Wrap with cling film and place into the fridge. lemon zest, lemon juice, vinegar and egg yolks in a small bowl. Whisk until light and frothy. Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water and whisk until mixture hits ribbon stage.
4. While constantly whisking, slowly
pour the butter in a steady stream. Continue to do so until all of the butter is incorporated. and espelette pepper. Set to the side.
6. Place the tray of English muffins
into the oven and bake until the cheese is browned (5-7 minutes).
water each into 2 pots. Add 2 Tbs of vinegar to each pot, and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. whirlpool, then slide in the eggs one by one, with a maximum of 4 per pot.
“Timing is crucial”
9. Cook for 4 minutes to achieve
medium poach, then remove with a slotted spoon.
10. Place 1 slice of smoked salmon
onto each muffin half, place an egg on top of each muffin, and top with 1 Tbs of hollandaise sauce. 15
Pretzels with Maple Butter Makes 18
soda to a low rolling boil, reduce heat to low. Dip each pretzel into water for 55 seconds each, with the top of the pretzel facing down.
Maple Butter
pan in oven and bake for 9 minutes until dark golden brown in colour, turning once, with a 2 minute steam (add some water into oven to create steam). Remove from oven and allow to cool for a few minutes.
1. Mix the first 7 ingredients in a mixer
Chef Alexei Boldireff
S’WICH Food Truck, Edmonton When it comes to brunch fare, Chef Boldireff tends to gravitate towards homemade baked goods. “My mom is a proud French Canadian, so we always had an abundance of pastries and bread in the house growing up,” he explains. “For me, the perfect brunch is a freshly baked baguette with preserves, cheese, maple butter and grapes. A little breakfast cheese plate if you will.”
using the dough hook attachment on medium speed for 16 minutes, until the dough is smooth, and pulls away from the side of the bowl. Set aside covered in plastic wrap for 8 minutes.
2. Turn the dough out onto a slightly
oiled surface, and portion into appropriate sizes for 18 pieces. Roll out each piece of dough into 60 cm ropes. Rest for another 8 minutes, covered.
3. Fold into traditional pretzel shapes.
“They [pretzels] are amazing on their own or can be the base of a really impressive breakfast sandwich” “We make all of our own artisan breads, and one of my favourite items we bake are our pretzels. To add an extra flare of Canadiana and kick them up a notch, we brush them with good quality Quebec maple syrup, flash them in the oven for 90 seconds at 400º F, and then brush them with maple butter and sprinkle with salt. They are amazing on their own or can be the base of a really impressive breakfast sandwich.” 16
5. Bring the 1.5L of water and baking
307 g bread flour 1070 g all-purpose flour 26 g instant yeast 23 g malt powder 26 g sea salt 3 1/3 cups (822 mL) water ½ cup + 1 Tbs (132 mL) canola oil 1½ L water 90 g baking soda
450 g salted butter ½ cup (120 mL) maple syrup
Chef Alexei Boldireff
4. Preheat oven to 345º F convection.
Pretzels with Maple Butter
6. Flip and place on a Silpat silicone baking mat, allowing them to dry for 10 minutes.
7. Reduce oven heat to 315º F. Place
8. Turn the oven up to 400º F. Brush
the pretzels with maple syrup, and flash cook for another 90 seconds.
9. Whip the butter and the maple syrup together and finish off the pretzels by brushing with the maple butter, and top with sea salt. Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer, with a passion for food and beverages. Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage, AK, you can still find her on Twitter @robynalana
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Spice it up: Perogies by KARLYNN JOHNSTON
Perogy, pierogie, pyrohy... no matter how you shake it there are just as many ways to eat this delicious dumpling as there are to spell the name. These two-bite pockets of cheeseinfused potatoey joy are undoubtedly one of the most famous and beloved of all Ukrainian foods. The key to a Baba-worthy perogy is the dough; it should be as soft as velvet and surprisingly delicate. While everyone is familiar with a savoury cheese filling enveloped by a crescent of delectable dough, my family has a few variations that weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve come to love over the years and have become perogy staples.
As a side dish, perogies are as versatile as plain mashed potatoes
Your Daily Serving of Fruit
Saskatoon berry perogies have become a well-loved fixture in my freezer. When the purple-hued prairie berry is at its bounty peak in the summer, prep some dough and use five-six berries per perogy, the same as you would a cheese filling. While a lot of prairie folk eat these fruity dumplings plain, my family takes it a few steps further. Boil the perogies until cooked, drain, then fry them in 18
butter until crisp and browned. Serve with a sprinkling of sugar, a generous dash of heavy cream, and your dessert couldn’t possibly be more Canadian prairie inspired. Alternatively, you can use blueberries or even strawberries, if you can’t get your hands on Saskatoons.
Hop on the Gravy Train
Step away from the traditional sour cream, bacon and onion topping for a moment and embrace gravy. As a Ukrainian girl that grew up with bi-weekly servings of perogies, I’ve learned that perogies are as versatile a side dish as plain mashed potatoes are. Roasting a chicken for dinner? Make a gravy from the drippings and serve over the perogies.
Say Cheese!
The easiest way to play around with the flavour of the classic perogy cheese filling is to use a different cheese. Remember that the dough itself is fairly bland; you need a sharp, pungent cheese in order to have a filling that stands out. Head to your nearest deli and splurge on some new-to-you cheese that has a distinctive flavour, and try it instead of the classic old cheddar.
Classic Ukrainian Perogies
The Vegan Variation
Perogie Dough:
Perogies are incredibly easy to make vegan with all of the new products out there, simply substitute a butter replacement – make sure the water content isn’t too high – and use your favourite vegan cheese product. It’s a nice feeling to know that you’ve made everyone happy around the dinner table!
Yield: 3 dozen perogies Total cook time one hour
Filling: 3 cups of hot boiled peeled potatoes (save the potato water) ½ cup old cheddar cheese, grated ¼ tsp black pepper ¼ tsp salt
¼ cup butter, melted 1¼ cups (300 mL) potato water (saved from your potatoes!) 2½ - 3 cups of flour pinch of salt
1. Boil your potatoes until tender,
turn out the dough onto it. Sprinkle the dough slightly with flour. Roll out to a thin layer, about 5 - 6mm thick. Cut out circles with a small empty soup can or a biscuit cutter of similar size.
5. Place a heaping teaspoon of
filling into the centre of each dough circle. Fold the dough in half into a crescent shape over the filling then pinch the sides until sealed.
6. Place on a baking sheet and
freeze until solid, then place into large freezer safe bags and store in the freezer.
drain, reserving the water for the dough. Place the still hot potatoes into a bowl and mash together with the cheese, salt and pepper until the cheese has melted and the potatoes are smooth. Set aside.
7. To cook, bring a pot of water to a
2. Combine the butter and potato
prevent sticking.
water in a large bowl. Mix in the flour and salt until a soft, slightly tacky dough forms. It should not stick much, as it’s a very soft, velvety dough.
3. Cover with a clean cloth, and let the dough rest for an hour. Do not skip this rest. 20
4. Flour your working surface then
boil, then place perogies in the pot. Boil until they rise to the surface, then cook for two minutes more.
8. Drain and toss with butter to
Full-time blogger, baker and recipe maker, Karlynn can be found fluffing her culinary feathers on her award-winning website, TheKitchenMagpie.com. Follow her on Twitter @kitchenmagpie.
Our 2016 competition judges include notable Alberta palates: Mike Roberts Co-op Wines Beer Spirits Brad Royale Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts Kim Spence Moxies Group Nathalie Gosselin Vine Styles
Leslie Echino Blink Restaurant Steve Goldsworthy Britannia Wine Merchants
Darren Fabian Alloy Fine Dining
Dave Gingrich Willow Park Wines & Spirits
Mary Bailey The Tomato
Kirk Bodnar Beers nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Such
Kurt Da Silva Teatro Group
John Papavacilopoulos Oak and Vine
Mel Priestly Vue Weekly Matt Leslie Bricks Wine Company Darren Oleksyn Calgary Herald
Margaux Burgess Alberta Liquor Store Association
Dave Nuttall Epicurean Calgary
Registration Deadline July 1st | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20 For complete list of judges, go to culinairemagazine.ca For more information, contact competition director Tom Firth: tom@culinairemagazine.ca
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Not Your Daddyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Steakhouse: 3 Unique Ways To Enjoy Alberta Steak story by MARY BAILEY photography by INGRID KUENZEL
Think steakhouse. The mind may conjure up a Mad Men-esque tableau of dark woods, formal dress, martinis, Frank Sinatra, cigars. This model, in the glorious tradition of meat-loving Americana, is alive and well. Is there another way to enjoy steak in a restaurant though? You bet. Here are three great examples of delicious variations on a classic Alberta meaty theme. 22
The Hardware Grill, Edmonton Several years ago, wanting to experience a classic American steak house, I spent an evening at the fabled Peter Luger in Brooklyn. There was little on the menu but steak.
Tables were festooned with martini glasses. There were several famous people dining. The ratio of men to women was 70 to 10. The steaks? Amazing. Peter Luger delivered.
The Hardware Grill
Vegas is a good place for the steakhouse experience. Calgary has steakhouses. Edmonton? Not so much. Since the demise of the Steak Loft in the mid 1980s, our city cannot claim an independent steakhouse paying homage to red meat in the last century. “Two things people ask; ‘What’s a good Canadian wine and do you have a steak?’” But don’t let that stop you. You can get a great steak in this city. The Marc turns out a top-notch Paris bistro-style steak et frites; Cibo Bistro, a toothsome bone-in bistecca Fiorentina available occasionally, and currently an 18-ounce 45-day wet aged rib-eye.
flavour. We would love to dry age our own beef here, but right now we wet age up to four weeks.“ He has worked with pretty much every beef supplier in the business. “Right now we buy Canadian Prime from Rocky Mountain Meats, which is three per cent of the Triple A beef in the country. It’s consistent with great marbling.” Hardware Grill has had various cuts on the menu over their 20 years — Wagu
carpaccio, short ribs, a Kobe beef burger at lunch, flank and flat iron, filet, a really big New York (“it was popular but we couldn’t find consistent quality,” says Stewart). Strip loin is always popular, and he estimates that half the diners ordering strip loin are women. Three quarters of the guests order their steak medium or less, says Stewart. “Our number one menu item is the sea bass, number two is steak. Steaks sells all the time, but prices from the suppliers go up in the summer.” Was the 60-day dry-aged beef Stewart tried recently his most incredible steak experience? “Actually, it wasn’t that good, it was dry and chewy.”
The Hardware Grill
Then there’s Hardware Grill. “Two things people ask; ‘What’s a good Canadian wine and do you have a steak?’” says Larry Stewart, owner of Hardware Grill with his wife Melinda. Talking to Stewart about beef is like taking a short course. He has been paying attention to beef for a very long time. ‘When I was 18 years old I worked for a German guy, half the cooler was sides of beef. His philosophy was, you can’t cook on the broiler until you could cut meat. It was all dry-aged, hung for 21-28 days, which develops a distinctive 23
sides, and dishes you didn’t associate with a steakhouse until now — sloppy joe’s, braised short ribs, spring rolls and their knock-out tartare bar.
Modern Steak
“Our tartare bar was born out of necessity, we had so much filet trim to use up. Now it’s so popular we bring in whole loins just for tartare.”
Stephen Deere
Modern Steak, Calgary Walk into Modern Steak in the former Muse space in Kensington. You’ll find casually dressed servers, energetic music, a welcoming lounge space and more formal dining upstairs. After 10:00pm it’s a party. What is going on here? “We are not trying to reinvent the wheel,” says owner Stephen Deere,
“but we are reinterpreting it with our menu and the atmosphere. We want our guests to come as they are, dress as they wish.” The focus is the beef. Modern works with several southern Alberta ranchers to access the beef they desire — Brant Lake for Wagyu; Pine Haven for grassfed strip loins and filets; Ben’s Beef for both dry and wet-aged Angus beef. “We buy smaller cattle because we want a three to four inch rib-eye that is at least an inch thick. Our burger is 50 per cent Wagyu trim, and 50 per cent dry-aged rib-eye Angus.” Modern’s menu straddles old school and new wave with style, with both classic — oysters, Caesar and wedge salads, surf and turf, various potato and vegetable
24
The menu is informative, discussing cuts of beef, their recommended done-ness and the all-important Steak Ordering Guide. “No one says I’m going to whip up some confit duck tonight, but everybody in Calgary thinks they know steak. We have found that not to be true. Most people can’t tell a rib eye from a strip loin from a filet. We needed to put that information on the menu to help people have a great experience.” “We have tried to sell lamb and pork or veal. Our customer wants steak.” And, more often than not, that customer is female. Deere says the female-friendly vibe (smaller-sized steaks on the menu, the mostly female staff wearing a neutral uniform of dark jeans, shirts and (Calgary-based) Medium Rare aprons, is deliberate. “We think women drive the decision on where to eat and we want to be their first choice,” says Deere. The gender mix extends to the kitchen, generally a notoriously maledominated preserve. Why? It’s 2016.
Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse, Edmonton and Calgary You won’t find a strip loin on the menu at Pampa. You won’t find what North Americans regard as a steak at all at Pampa. What you will find is a new way to enjoy various cuts of beef (and pork and chicken) served tableside from large skewers. The wide-open spaces and grasslands of the pampa of southern Brazil look like Canadian prairie. The cowboys (gauchos) tending cattle on the pampa cooked their meats on large skewers over open fires. This style of cooking,
called churrasco, became the classic Brazilian steakhouse experience. Owners Oscar Lopez and João Dachery made a promise to themselves that they would create an experience similar to what you could have in São Paulo or Rio. “We decided to bring an authentic grill from Brazil, and cook the local meats churrasco-style. The beef we buy here is Angus. In Brazil the popular cattle for grazing in the south is the Brangus (5/8 Angus and 3/8 Brahman). The way we season and prep the meats, and the flavour profiles of the desserts and salads, are Brazilian.” Consider the rump, lean with a large fat cap, not considered a prime cut in Canada. In Brazil however, it’s more expensive than filet because it’s ideal for churrasco. During the slow cooking process over hardwood lump charcoal at Pampa, the meat bastes in the large fat cap, creating tenderness and flavour.
Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse
As servers roam the dining room with appetizing-looking skewers, diners signal by way of an individual disc, green on one side for more please and red on the other for enough! It’s a fun and interactive way to dine, especially after a few caipirinhas, Brazil’s national cocktail. “We hope with our restaurant we can bring the flavour of Brazil’s culture here. Life there is more communal; we’ll make one large caipirinha and share it. There is a nice sense of neighbourliness and friendliness.” “We have been part of the resurgence of independent restaurants in downtown Edmonton. It’s been wonderful. But at first guests were leaving unhappy; they would hear steakhouse and they would assume New York, rib-eye. That’s when we realized we had to teach people about churrasco. For two years our website was all about education. We have been open in Calgary for one year. We’re downtown and the corporate business we expected is, of course, not really there now. We have to reinvent ourselves a bit.”
Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse
Food wine and travel writer, Mary Bailey, publishes the Tomato food & drink. She is a certified sommelier, holds the WSET Diploma and prefers top sirloin grilled medium rare. 25
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Step By Step: Beet-Cured Salmon story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN
With the arrival of spring (three cheers for warm weather!) it’s finally time to think about entertaining out of doors again. For a late lunch on the weekend, nothing is quite as lovely as a spread of bagels, beet-cured salmon and all of the necessary accoutrements – cream cheese, I’m looking at you. 28
Sure, one can buy cured salmon from a reputable fishmonger, but it won’t be as fun to eat as the stuff you can cure at home all by yourself. Trust me, it’s not very hard. You’ll definitely be sure to impress your friends with your latest culinary adventure. All it takes is 20 minutes of prep time, a side of fresh salmon, grated beets, salt, sugar, cheesecloth, and some refrigerator real estate. After two days, you peel away all of the seasonings for the big reveal. The longer the salmon sits, the more it cures, or essentially “cooks”. Don’t
leave it past three days or it will taste too salty and the flesh will be tough.
You’ll definitely be sure to impress your friends with your latest culinary adventure
Once the salmon is sliced, a ruby red exterior gives way to a vibrant pink interior. Talk about a showstopper. Thin slices set atop cream cheese schmeared bagels are a perfect way to enjoy the season of rebirth and renewal.
Beet-Cured Salmon 1 kg side of salmon 450 g granulated sugar 450 g Kosher salt 10 medium beets
1. If your salmon is not skinned and
de-boned, you must clean it first. Pull out any bones using tweezers, and remove any tough cartilage leftover from the fins and belly flap. Grab onto the tail with a clean kitchen towel and run a sharp knife under the skin. Set the cleaned salmon aside.
6. The salmon takes two-three days to
2. Scrub the beets very well, and
cut the bottoms and tops off. I don’t peel the beets if the skins aren’t too blemished. If they are, peel them. Using a box grater (watch your knuckles!) grate the beets. It works best if you do this on a baking sheet, to save your counter top from getting too stained. To prevent your hands from getting too stained, wear disposable latex gloves.
3. Stir together the sugar and salt in a medium bowl.
4. Lay out a large piece of cheesecloth over a metal cooling rack placed over a baking sheet. Be sure to leave some extra on all sides so you can wrap the fish up afterwards. Place half of the grated beets the length of the
cheesecloth, in the shape of the salmon. Lay half of the sugar/salt mixture on top of the beets and place the salmon on top of this. Press the remaining sugar/ salt mixture on top of the salmon and cover the fish in the last of the grated beets. Push up any extra salt/sugar against the side of the fish, and be sure all exposed flesh is covered.
5. Firmly wrap the salmon up in the
cheesecloth, tight enough so all of the seasonings are pressed up against it, but not so tight that it can’t lay flat. Keep the salmon on the cooling rack and baking sheet. Wrap the whole thing in plastic wrap and place it on the bottom rack of your refrigerator.
cure. Check it daily, draining any fluids that drip into the baking sheet. After 48 hours, check to see if it is ready by slicing off a piece from the tail. It should have a nice ruby ring around the outside and the flesh should taste salty. If you’re happy, scrape off the beets, sugar and salt.
7. Rinse the salmon under cold water and pat dry. Shave off thin slices and serve with bagels, cream cheese, etc.
8. Beet-cured salmon will keep in the
refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, or can be frozen for up to 1 month. Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club. Also, check out her blog www.sweetsugarbean.com
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Menu Gems From Alberta Media Personalities by MALLORY FRAYN
:: Alberta’s culinary scene is burgeoning, and has been for years. Whether it’s killer pizza at your neighbourhood pub, pasta that any Italian nona would be proud of, or ramen that has people lining up down the block, there’s no shortage of amazing eats in our province. From Calgary north to Edmonton, and all of the small towns in between, chefs pride themselves on showcasing local ingredients and traditions, while still embracing diversity and modernity in the food that they cook. It’s a mentality that guarantees a plethora of options for any and all palates. In that vein, we’ve compiled favourite restaurant dishes from various personalities across the province, from food critics and writers, to football players, and even the premier of Alberta, Ms. Notley herself. See what their go-to choices are for a failsafe meal out.
:: 30
Linda Garson Mayor Naheed Nenshi Chilli Chicken Master Pizza (Editor-in-chief, Culinaire Magazine) at Pizza Master Fusion Eats at Safari Grill The Chilli Chicken Master Pizza is totally and Escoba awesome because, first of all, it’s in my
neighbourhood of Coral Springs. Second, I have many favourite dishes in Calgary; it combines Indian and Italian cuisine; they’re the ones I never tire of and go I love that it combines two different cultures on one pizza. Plus it’s delicious. back time and time again for my fix. Safari Grill’s Masala Mogo is one of these dishes; they’re chunky, crunchy sticks of deep-fried cassava in a mild and flavourful Premier Rachel Notley masala sauce of crushed tomatoes and Eats at Langano Skies, spices. Escoba’s Signature Mushroom Soup is another fave; it’s creamy, and Packrat Louie, and Meat chock full of wild mushrooms, with ingredients such as sherry and grainy I feel like I haven’t had a chance to eat mustard to give it a lift. A hug in a bowl. recreationally for a long time, but that being said, around the corner from my house in Edmonton is an Ethiopian place called Langano Skies. It’s one of the few places my kids can eat with their fingers without getting yelled at. I love the injera (flatbread) with different dishes, Julie Van Rosendaal especially the spicy ones. The goat is my favourite. Their salad is also super(CBC Calgary) yummy; it has a nice, light vinaigrette, Vietnamese Beef not sweet, and really tangy. If you have not tried Ethiopian food, you should. Carpaccio at Song Huong
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The lemon pizza at Packrat Louie is also a decade-long favourite. I love the lemon and the way they do their crust; it’s very crunchy. There’s no tomato, just a mix of cheese, herbs, and lemon. Across the street from there, you can’t go wrong with the jalapeno mac n’ cheese at Meat either.
It’s tough to pick just one of my favourite restaurant dishes – I have so many favourites! But one not many people might know is the paper-thin Vietnamese beef carpaccio with Thai basil and lime at Song Huong, just off 17th Ave at 61st SE. Chef Duncan Ly introduced me to it - it’s so fresh, bright, and hits all the right texture and flavour notes – it inspired his version when he was at Raw Bar.
Rob Cote (Calgary Stampeders) Eats at Shiki Menya and Sandwich’d Soooo here’s the thing, my wife always gives me a hard time when we go out to eat because she hates how I order. I am always torn between two (at least) things on the menu and end up making some convoluted request to combine parts of them both until I can be satisfied. So in the spirit of that, I can’t rightfully give you just one favourite, but two. The first is the Tonkotsu Black Ramen from Shiki Menya that is to date the best bowl of ramen I have ever had. The perfect noodles are made in-house and the broth is spiced with garlic and voodoo to make it unbelievable. What sets it apart though is the Char Sui, that makes for one of the better bites of pork you can get in a bowl of ramen or not. The second is the Gruush from Sandwich’d at the Calgary Farmers Market. They combine a beautiful piece of fried chicken with loads of melted cheese and bacon, and serve it alongside their signature sauce and onion rings. What else can I say? Not for the faint of heart but if you need to eat your feelings, this is the ticket.
REDISCOVERING THE TRUE ART OF FOOD
Dan Clapson (Eat North) Devilled Eggs at Briggs Kitchen and Bar When I was a kid, I remember my mom making big batches of devilled eggs for dinner parties. I’d always sneak into the kitchen and eat a few before the guests arrived. At Briggs, I can’t steal from the kitchen – that just wouldn’t be right – but I always make sure to order their signature devilled eggs. A smoky mushroom and egg yolk filling finished off with a big, crispy chorizo chip. They are absolutely delicious.
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Jill Belland (BT Calgary) Eats at Charbar
Amber Schinkel (Global Calgary Morning News) – Pizza at Ducks on the Roof
My favourite dish, especially heading into patio season, is at Charbar. I love their charred Napa cabbage salad with avocado and mint; it’s lightly dressed and has delicious seeds for crunch. I’ll add the chimichurri chicken for something more filling; it is so flavourful! To start, try the avocado and pistachio bruschetta. A cocktail on the rooftop makes it a perfect summer afternoon!
Calgary and the surrounding area have several restaurants that serve great pizza, which is great because I love pizza! I live in Cochrane, just outside of Calgary, and the pub, Ducks on the Roof, has a delicious pepperoni, mushroom, and green pepper pizza. I’m not sure how they do it, but the cheese on top forms an amazing sort of crust.
Tom Firth (Culinaire Magazine) Lemon Conchigliette at Cilantro
John Gilchrist (CBC Calgary and Calgary Herald) Roasted Carrots at Ten Foot Henry
Sasha Spencer (KiSS 95.9 radio host, Calgary) Saskatoon Berry Pie Fries at The Beltliner
I love the roasted carrots at Ten Foot Henry. The contrast of colours – multicoloured carrots against a backdrop of avocado puree – is visually engaging, the textures are crunchy and creamy, and the addition of pistachios and shoots heightens the flavours.
I love brunch, so The Beltliner is one of my go-tos in Calgary. Every time I’m there, I can’t resist ordering the pie fries along with my meal. They always taste like they’ve just come out of the oven, light and flaky, and that vanilla sauce you get to dip them in? I want some right now!
Hands down, one of my favourite restaurant dishes has to be the Lemon Conchigliette from Cilantro on 17th Avenue SW in Calgary. I like it so much, I really couldn’t tell you what else is on the menu. Bursting with flavour, scallops and lobster, cream and cheese, it’s rich, delicious, and pairs perfectly well with a beautiful rosé or beer on a sunny day.
Twyla Campbell CBC Edmonton restaurant critic Sautéed Mushrooms with Egg Yolk on Toast, at Three Boars I crave it any time of day. Three Boars doesn’t open until 5 pm, but this could be a breakfast or brunch dish, easily. It’s also the perfect late night snack. This dish has all the right elements: it looks pretty, it has great texture (with the soft yolk mixed in with fried mushrooms), and it has umami and flavour to spare. The best thing, though, is that it’s a simple dish made with top quality ingredients. I order this dish every single time. I try to ignore it, but I can’t. 32
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Mike Chalut (The Bounce, Edmonton) Cocktails and Chicken Platter at Rostizado
Liane Faulder (Edmonton Journal) Eats at Bar Bricco and Corso 32 One of my favourite eats is at Bar Bricco in Edmonton, an Italian spuntini bar that serves something called Egg Yolk Raviolo, Ricotta and Boschetto Al Tartufo. It’s essentially a broad ravioli that bursts with a creamy egg yolk when you cut into it. It’s creamy, and has a tart lemony flavour too, and a touch of sage – it’s a beautifully balanced dish.
Phil Wilson (Baconhound) Eggs Moliterno at Bar Bricco
A plate of eggs is my favourite dish? Yes. Yes it is. These eggs are absurdly One of my favourite places is Rostizado. rich and creamy, and absolutely loaded with deliciously salty Moliterno cheese. It’s elevated, creative Mexican cuisine That first bite is truly memorable, and served in stylish surrounds, accented a spoonful of Eggs Moliterno atop a with brick and exposed wood. What do toasted crostini is about as perfect as a you need to order? Well the menu is bite gets. over the top, and the cocktails are delish! I suggest you start with a signature margarita, or 3! Be sure to try the chicken platter! The chicken is locally raised, brined for 12 hours, dry rubbed in a house blend of spices, and Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student slow roasted until perfect. It is served now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out with rosti-papas, tortillas, pickled her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat vegetables, and salsa.
3:46 PM
The moment your senses became one with your surroundings.
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Spritz Up Your Spring! by PATRICIA KOYICH
The sun is shining, birds are chirping, we are celebrating our Mothers in May, soon our Fathers and everyone in between! In Alberta, we celebrate our time outdoors – the bright sun, those longer days, and the return of our patio weather! Because our winters are so long, we cannot wait to “bust out” of our winter coats, and bask in the nice weather when it returns, be it at brunch, lunch, happy hour or dinner. We cannot wait to find a sunny patio, sit with friends and/ or family and find a cause to celebrate.
in the province such as Cava (Spain), Prosecco and Franciacorta (Italy), and some lovely Blanc de Blancs are available from California. These wines can be enjoyed on their own or used to make some incredibly festive and satisfying cocktails.
What better way to celebrate this season than with a glass of bubbles? Some people underestimate the power bubbles have to lift your spirits, invigorate your day, refresh your palate, and celebrate a moment. There is just something satisfying about the way a flute, or even a coupe, sits in your hand perfectly. While champagne is the benchmark in sparkling wine, perhaps not all of us have the budget to satisfy our “champagne tastes”… but for those of us who still want to enjoy that sparkle, there are a variety of sparkling wines available to us 34
The sun is shining, birds are chirping, we are celebrating our Mothers in May
Champagne cocktail recipes can be found dating back to the late 1800s. The great debate between the purists and the idealist, also dates back over time. The debate asks the question; why on earth would you want to put anything into a beautiful glass of champagne?
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Champagne Cocktail (classic) 1 sugar cube 2 dashes of angostura bitters 1/3 oz cognac 4 oz chilled sparkling white wine Garnish with a lemon twist
Place one sugar cube in the bottom of a flute, add the bitters, then cognac, and finish with sparkling white wine, and finally the lemon zest.
Well, for the purist the solution is simple, use a sparkling wine in any of these cocktails, and for the idealist, well…anything goes.
We cannot wait to find a patio, sit with friends and/or family and find a cause to celebrate.
French 75 (sipper)
Recipes date back to World War I, as the combination of these ingredients was said to have such a “kick” it could be compared to the French 75 mm field gun.
Most of us have heard of “The Mimosa” (invented about 1925), a classic brunching cocktail of sparkling wine and orange juice. In the film Casablanca, one of the most romantic movies of all time, many of the characters notoriously sip on a variety of classics like the “Champagne cocktail” and the “French 75”. Meanwhile in Italy, the first commercial advertising the recipe of the “Aperol spritz” as a refreshing aperitif was released in the early 1950s. In our present-day cocktail culture we have access to locally flavoured bitters as well as easily infused simple syrup recipes that can “spice up” these classic recipes. A freshly squeezed blood orange juice Mimosa, saffron mango bitters in your champagne cocktail, or fresh raspberry simple syrup in your French 75 are all possible! So many options – and not enough sunny days in our spring! So the next time you hear the birds chirping, and feel the heat of the sun upon your face, take a moment to celebrate, pop that cork! Spritz up your spring and enjoy a sparkling wine cocktail on the nearest patio, even if it’s your own! 36
1 oz gin ½ oz of simple syrup ½ oz fresh squeezed lemon juice 4 oz dry sparkling white wine Garnish with a lemon twist
Classic simple syrup recipe: (Depending on the thickness or richness you are trying to achieve, try adding a pinch of salt too; this results in texture and more depth) Combine 2 parts water to 1 part sugar or combine 1 part water to 1 part sugar
Aperol Spritz (refreshing)
1 oz Aperol 4 oz Prosecco Splash of soda Garnish with a slice of orange
Fill chilled champagne flute with ice and add prosecco, add the Aperol. Top with a splash of soda and finish with a slice of orange.
Bring to a boil to allow sugar to dissolve. To either of these recipes you can add or muddle fresh fruit, muddled herbs, or spices, to achieve colour and flavour intensity.
Patricia Koyich was born and raised in Calgary, and considers Calgary one of the best cities in the world. She continues to inspire, learn and achieve within the Food, Beverage and Tourism industry.
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Making The Case by TOM FIRTH additional review and photograph by LINDA GARSON
Italian wine is almost beyond reproach; some of the greatest wines in the world come from Italy, and it’s very hard to hate Italian wine. As a sommelier friend of mine recently said, you don’t hate Italian wine, you hate bad Italian wine. Italian wine runs the full gamut from cheap and cheerful to insanely serious, cellar-worthy and discussion-worthy wine. Thankfully most fit somewhere in between, but one thing almost all Italian wine has in common is that they pair exceptionally well with food – from vegetarian cuisine to the freshest seafood, to the gamiest of game meats, not to forget the classic Italian pasta dishes.
Below are the barest smatterings of Italian wines I’ve recently tasted, but along with some classic chianti and amarone, there are a few slightly unusual whites to wet your whistle. Don’t forget that Mother’s Day is in May as well, and it never hurts to treat a mom in your life to a little bubbly.
Marchesi di Barolo, 2011 Cannubi Piedmont, Italy One of the great Barolo vineyards, Cannubi is sought after by aficionados year after year. Made for the cellar, layers and layers of liquorice, ginger, plum, grape jelly, and floral aromas with intense flavours, loads of balanced tannins. Massive, with undertones of elegance, this will cellar for as long as you’d like. $90 on most shelves. CSPC +403493
Masi 2014 Masianco Veneto, Italy A slightly uncommon blend of pinot grigio with 25 percent verduzzo – perfect for summer sipping if you need something a little out of the ordinary. Crisp tropical fruits with fresh almond, and a bit of pear and apple for good measure on nose and palate, this should really sing well-chilled with grilled fish, or lightly herbed chicken. $18 CSPC +713110
Marchesi di Barolo 2009 Sarmassa Barolo, Piedmont, Italy Just. Freaking. Delicious. Coming from the Sarmassa vineyard this stunner is deep, intense, and exciting to drink. A baby-still at about 6 years, buy a few, cellar with love, then reap the fruits in 5-20 years. If you love Barolo, this is one to pick up. About $82 CSPC +709239 38
Marabino 2011 Archimede Reserva Sicily, Italy
Planeta 2013 Alastro Grecanico Sicily, Italy
Feudi San Gregorio 2013 Falanghina Campania, Italy
Made from 100 percent nero d’Avola and fully organic, biodynamic, and even a “natural” wine, in that minimal intervention features in its making. Blessed with a clean and enticing aroma bursting with black berry fruits, while the palate shows enviable balance between fruit, tannin, and acids. Drinking exceptionally well. Would be even better with ribs, a rib eye, or smoked meat. $45 CSPC +764073
An unusual grape pretty well only found in Sicily, look for kiwi, melon, mineral, honey, pear, and quince aromas. Tight and crisp on the palate, plenty of tropical fruits should work very well this summer paired with pasta with creamy sauces, seafood of almost any ilk, or heck – just on its own. About $29 CSPC +756115
Any fan of authentic wine with a sense of place should love falanghina. A lively nose jumps with melon rind, pears and apple fruits, while the palate is all about green apple, tropical fruit, banana, a touch of rock candy, and a bit of zingy acids. Great white for almost any food you’d want white wine with. $22 CSPC +718656
Rocca della Macie 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy
Giusti 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Veneto, Italy
Zenato 2012 Lugana Riserva Sergio Zenato DOC, Veneto, Italy
The sort of Chianti Classico that reminds you why you love it. Generous blackberry and sour cherry fruits. Layered over all sorts of spice and tannins, those dark fruits prove balanced and versatile. Drink a glass or two with… Italian cuisine, such as tomato-based pasta dishes, or maybe some grilled meats. Around $30 CSPC +296129
A top-shelf amarone made in a refreshingly old-school sort of style. Spice-laden and showcasing sour cherry and raisin fruits, it lacks some of the sweet fruit or jamminess some amarone is known for. This dialed back approach lets plenty of depth show through, and this should really shine even more with 5-10+ years in the cellar. About $110-120 CSPC +767182
Zenato’s flagship white wine is only made in the best years, and is limited to 15,000 numbered bottles. Made from 100 percent Trebbiano di Lugana, it’s a sexy and generous wine – lush and intense, with mandarin and tropical fruit flavours. Perfect for Mother’s day, enjoy with carbonara or alfredo pasta, roast chicken, a pork or veal chop, and ripe cheeses. (LG) $35 CSPC +703575
Cavicchioli NV Spumante Demi Sec Prosecco, Italy
La Gioiosa NV Prosecco Italy
Barone Ricasoli 2011 Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy
Maybe you find most sparkling wine a little too dry? Look no further than this demi-sec (or half-dry) sparkler from northern Italy. Tropical fruits with peaches and pureed pear fruits with a noticeably sweeter palate. Clean, easy, and tasty, this would work very well on a hot patio with some fresh fruit. About $13-14 CSPC +766363
Who doesn’t love a little prosecco? Lightly scented with pear, mango and slightly green banana fruits, the flavours are lifted and clean with the bubbles bringing a slightly herbaceous edge. Should sing in a cocktail (hint hint), but also would really work with some scallops. About $17 CSPC +770999
Black cherries, some tea leaf, liquorice, and minced strawberries lead the nose, while on the palate, serious tannins layer well with dark and slightly sour fruits. Like good wine should, it calls for food. Braised meats, sausages, or rich tomatobased pasta dishes. Drink now, or keep for a dinner that needs a glass of wine. $34 CSPC + 769728 39
Hot Okanagan: Cool Wineries For 2016
by JEANNETTE MONTGOMERY
40
Alishan Driediger of Little Farm Winery
Spring unfurls gently as each new leaf welcomes more daylight and warmer temperatures, the breeze carrying fragrant orchard blossoms, and vineyards awakening after a winter slumber. It’s a time of renewal in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. While the BC wine industry is still young, and learning what wines and grapes work best in a particular spot, a pattern is emerging in the BC wine world. Winemakers are using more natural processes in vinification, focusing on what’s becoming a signature bright acidity and minerality for the region. The result: more interesting wines that speak to a sense of place.
Little Farm Winery Why it’s cool: sense of place farming in an emerging wine region Wine to watch: takes-me-to-the-sea, oyster-shell-and-stone riesling Eons ago, the Similkameen Valley was a big riverbed, catching limestone and calcium runoff from local mountains. In 2008, when Rhys Pender and Alishan Driediger went in search of land to grow grapes for crafting mineral-centric wines, they were over the moon to find a small farm here. Over the next year they replanted a neglected orchard and fallow hay Little Farm Winery
Vin Perdu Cellars
field with four acres of riesling and chardonnay, certified it organic, and in 2011, launched Little Farm Winery with 56 cases of wine. Current vintage comes in around 600 cases of chardonnay, riesling, and rosé. Pender is a Master of Wine who has worked in the industry since he was a teenager, first in his native home of Australia and then in Europe. Driediger has a culinary diploma and founded a well-loved local bakery, studying winemaking at Guelph University. Vin Perdu Cellars
They have a clear vision for their paysan (French for “small farmer”) wines: hand grown, naturally crafted, with little intervention. The winery building plays crush pad, barrel cellar, tasting bar. On a smaller scale everything has big impact; for Little Farm, whether to filter those 600 cases is a decision requiring serious contemplation – not filtering results in a more natural wine, but it could be risky for their low production. These are serious wines from people who truly love what they do. Opening summer 2016 2155 Newton Road, Cawston littlefarmwinery.ca
Vin Perdu Cellars Why it’s cool: wines with a clean, fresh palate and a certain je-ne-sais-quoi Wine to watch: elegant and pure 2015 Gamay Noir The people at Vin Perdu are reclaiming grapes that, for years, have been sold to others. Owned by the Coulombe family (dad Ray, mom Wendy, with daughters Catherine and Nathalie), this formerly “lost wine” winery is reminiscent of something one might find in a small
European town with armchairs in the tasting room, and a large antique table tucked away in a private tasting salon. Ray and Wendy left their Montreal advertising business to make Oliver their home in 2009. After three years selling grapes to other wineries, they decided to make their own wine under the guidance of an experienced consultant. Now, Ray holds court in the cellar and Wendy manages administration. A close-knit family, the Coulombe daughters have joined in – Catherine traded Google’s Montreal kitchens for the tasting room and cellar, Nathalie left her Vancouver art studio for the vineyard. Everyone does a bit of everything. Their five acres of chardonnay, gamay noir, pinot gris, and cabernet sauvignon keeps production low, and with the inclusion of sourced cabernet franc, their current vintage will reach just over 630 cases. Clean, focused, and restrained wines, reflective of what the soil can offer. 5381 Highway 97, Oliver vinperducellars.com Vin Perdu photographs courtesy J Montgomery 41
purchased 16 acres in Lake Country just north of Kelowna. The family planted vines and built a small winery, while son Manuel studied winemaking in their home country of Switzerland, opening a modest room to the public in 2003. From a first vintage of 1,000 cases to their current 15,000 cases per year, the original acreage now includes one leased vineyard and a long term buying contract from a neighbour. In 2015 they built a new, modern tasting room and barrel cellar to keep up with demand for their wines. Joe runs the vineyards, Margrit the office, and Manuel the cellar.
Tantalus Vineyards
Tantalus Vineyards
Tantalus Vineyards
in the vineyard with natural ferments in the cellar when possible – coaxing out the nuances of terroir and bringing minerality to the forefront. Wine made from younger plantings is available under a “Juveniles” label, while those of deeper roots are bottled directly under the Tantalus banner. The result: rich and textured wines with layers of flavour, and an unrelenting freshness at the forefront.
Why it’s cool: old-world inspiration with a new-world vibe Wine to watch: you-had-me-atminerality 2013 Chardonnay
1670 Dehart Road, Kelowna tantalus.ca
Tantalus has earned a solid reputation for crafting riesling with a laser focus on terroir. Yet there’s more to this LEED certified Kelowna winery than racy acidity. After more than a decade on this site, Tantalus is just beginning to hit its stride with old-world influenced pinot noir and serious mineral-driven chardonnay. Winemaker David Paterson joined Tantalus in 2009 and pushed to keep the winery a true estate, not buying or selling grapes. The 40+ acre vineyard grows riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier in what Paterson describes as “austere soils.”
Why it’s cool: crafting quality wines since
Some of the plantings on this granitebased lakebed silt date back to 1978 and 1985, with wines earning a title as coming from “old vines”. Inspired by Montrachet and classic French houses, the team uses minimal interference 42
Arrowleaf Cellars
Manuel’s depth of knowledge is hidden beneath a friendly modesty. After 15 years and even with increased production, he still works the cellar with only one fulltime assistant and a small seasonal crew at vintage. In the summer, his sisters (Karin and Janine) return from Montreal and Vancouver to run the new bistro that overlooks Lake Okanagan. Aromatic white wines and delicately layered reds anchor a portfolio that provides a beautiful expression of the diligent and consistent work of this unassuming family.
1574 Camp Road, Lake Country arrowleafcellars.com
2001, seemingly on the QT Wine to watch: quiet-restraintmeets-richness-and-depth 2014 Solstice Pinot Noir In 1996, Joe and Margrit Zuppiger sold their 10-year-old Alberta dairy farm and
Arrowleaf Cellars
Daydreamer Wines Photo courtesy J Montgomery
Daydreamer Wines Why it’s cool: wines of interest with a
hands-on approach (literally) Wine to watch: shiraz two ways – 2014 Daydreamer Amelia or Marcus Ansems signature Having worked in the wine industry for years, Marcus and Rachel Ansems knew what was in store when they purchased five
acres in Naramata with vineyard potential and a home for their family of five. Still, the to-do list at their new property has some big items – such as taking topsoil cleared from a pasture and moving it back where it belongs before hand-planting three sloping acres with pinot noir, chardonnay, and riesling. Until the new vineyard comes into its own, Marcus will continue leasing a vineyard to supply their 1,500 case production, while Rachel manages the winery’s marketing and administration. Marcus is a trained oenologist, viticulturist, and Master of Wine with winemaking experience in Europe, South Africa, Australia, and Canada. He has a strong technical background, which is beneficial, as he turns his focus to more natural ways. Easygoing and open, Marcus is happy to explain why one-third of his chardonnay goes through natural malolactic fermentation, or how he selected only the top of the syrah block for his signature shiraz. This Naramata-focused portfolio of rosé, pinot gris, chardonnay, pinot noir, merlot/cabernet franc, and shiraz (with a
Daydreamer Wines
dollop of Golden Mile Bench viognier in the co-fermented Amelia) is reflective of the man making the wines: inviting and approachable with a quiet ease. Opening in Naramata summer 2016 daydreamerwines.ca Jeannette Montgomery lives in BC wine country, with access to plenty of research material – and a large cellar.
Natural Wines:
A New Look At Old Methods by JACLYN ADOMEIT
A great author once called a great wine “the captured sunlight of bygone days.” A beautiful sentiment, but these days many great wines are sunlight, soil, and an arsenal of additives. Natural winemaking takes the additives out of the equation, and makes wine from grapes — that’s it. Of course, something so simple has many shades of purple once you dive into the glass.
What are Natural Wines? Not an easy question, as there is no agreed upon or legislated definition, but Calgary’s own Andrew Stewart, Wine Director at Model Milk, Anju, and Pigeon Hole, has his own checklist for natural wines. They need to be farmed organically or biodynamically, the fermentation needs to be spontaneous (no yeast inoculations), no filtering or fining, and no additives (although tiny amounts of sulphites, for stabilization, still make the cut).
Marabino Vineyard 44
So what’s the difference between natural, organic, and biodynamic wines? Organic and biodynamic are terms for regulated farming practices. Organic allows nothing to be added to the vineyard save for natural pesticides like copper sulphate. Biodynamic is more
stringent than organic, and relies on the idea that every organism in the vineyard contributes to the circle of life. Neither designation controls how grapes are processed once they’re picked. Natural applies to both the vineyard and winemaking in the cellar. It’s not regulated, although organizations like Les Vin S.A.I.N.S. in France or the international VinNatur are trying to establish recognized designations. “Organic wines are nothing more than conventional wines with organically grown grapes,” says Maxim Atanassov, owner of Vino Al Vino, and an importer of natural wines, “it’s a bit like seeing ‘Authentic European’ slapped on a label at the grocery store. You can be sure that the product is neither authentic nor European.”
Why are they different? By declaring some wines natural and real, it is conversely implied that many wines are unnatural and fake. Fighting words indeed. Additives are necessary in mechanized winemaking. If you mechanically harvest, rather than hand pick grapes, there will be an amount of MOG (material other than grapes; leaves, twigs, bugs) in your must. To counteract this, enzymes and clarifiers are added, and the wine will need filtering. Laboratory-made yeasts produce pre-selected flavours and aromas in wine. The winemaker may also add colour, tannin, oak essence, or preservatives. Many winemakers are much like the wizard, pulling levers behind the curtain. “To me, overripe grapes that are watered down and spun out to remove excessive alcohol, which was created by extra beefy commercial
yeasts, is as bad as any single additive,” says Stewart. “It’s like Auto-Tune.” Natural wines are different. “When it comes to natural wines, you have to get it right,” says Atanassov, “It is like taking photos. You have to get it right with the camera. You don’t have the opportunity to fix it later in Photoshop.” Be bold, and dare to drink something new Natural winemakers hand pick their grapes. Producers use ambient yeasts, found naturally in the environment, and wines will often have a bit of sediment since they’re unfiltered. “It’s funny to me that people talk about organic vegetables and cleanses, but then reach for a BigName Red because it’s ‘so yummy’,” says Stewart. “The transparency, in most cases, of what is being done with natural wines would make conventional wine blush, choke and faint.”
Chemical processes aren’t something wineries are comfortable talking about. And while most consumers don’t care if a winemaker uses ambient yeast or a Scott Laboratories purchased blend, few producers are going to admit that they add Mega-Purple colourant or Velcorin antiseptic to their grape juice. “Mega Purple is in itself hilarious to me. That ridiculous compound is such a huge part of the California wine industry it makes me sad,” says Stewart. It’s difficult to judge winemakers too harshly for wanting to modernize the process. Not all have the freedom to throw caution into the wind and allow a batch of wine to take its own course. Big-Name Red or Cougar-Juice White need to taste like Big-Name and Cougar-Juice year after year, even though the winemaker is given very different grapes to start with. You cannot compare Heinz ketchup to your grandmother’s homemade salsa, and both have their place in the world of french-fry dipping.
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e h t t u o ab
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e v a h t bu n e e s u yo theGin?!
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Menti Monte Del Cuca 2013 Gambellara, Italy Wine with passion and depth. Burnt orange and caramelized sugar on the nose, and lemon rind on the palate. Pair with great conversation and subtle foods. $34 CSPC + 770201
Why should you try them?
Many natural wines use local grape varieties that are traditionally from that Marissa Bellini, Managing Director of community. “Producers draw on centuries the Domodimonti winery says, “We want of experience,” says Atanassov, “they wine to be wine, not just taste like wine.” usually choose to work with indigenous grape varieties.” Natural wines are traditional, terroir driven, and they reduce hangovers. I said However, just because a wine is natural it. Hangover reduction is a superficial, and terroir driven, doesn’t mean it’s but real, reason why producers use perfect. Limited filtration will cause some traditional methods. wines to not just have sediment, but to be cloudy. A wine with lower sulphite “The reason that we started to make concentrations is less stable, and more wines,” says Bellini “was not to be a likely to develop faults during transport. commercial enterprise but to make wines Some wines re-ferment in the bottle. so that my husband could drink them Great natural wines are eye-opening and and not feel ‘unwell’.” This sentiment glorious, but some producers will claim is shared by many. “Sulfites make it that a natural wine with vinegar taint is difficult for your body to process toxins part of the appeal. It’s not. in alcohol that cause hangovers, headaches, and nausea,” says Stewart. I asked Stewart, “If you had one wish Natural wines often have less than for natural winemaking in the next 50 mg/L of sulphites, while conventional decade, what would it be?” He replied, wines have up to 250 mg/L. “Natural “Acceptance. The wines force you to wines are sweeping Europe,” says re-evaluate what you know. They can be Atanassov, “They’re slowly making their temperamental, shy, but equally rewarding way to North America. In Canada, and exciting. After almost 14 years working they’re still relatively unknown and only in wine, I continue to be surprised, and am drunk by people in the know.” able to maintain a steep learning curve. If it can do that for me then I hope that For natural wines, terroir comes not only true wine lovers will explore this genre and from the soil or microclimate, but from incorporate them into the larger picture of ambient yeasts found uniquely in the air. what wine is to them.” “Truly great wine farmers are working backwards to find an identity that speaks As consumers, we should care what’s to their land, their sensibilities as they in our glass. Be bold, and dare to drink relate to their history, and a sense of something new: ask the man behind the sincerity,” says Stewart. curtain what’s in the wine. 46
Nikolaihof Hefeabzug 2012 Grüner Veltliner, Wachau, Austria Aromatic honey, pear, lemon, and a whiff of petrol. Fresh minerality and clementine oranges on the palate. Pair with soft cheeses and charcuterie. $37 CSPC +762181
Foradori 2013 Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy A glimpse of Italy, without the flight. Cassis woven together with toasted earth and menthol. A friend of red meats. $38 CSPC + 611269
Domodimonti 2013 Déjà Vu IGT Marche, Italy An unexpected nose of buttered popcorn and jellybeans pairs up with citrus fruit on the palate. Very food friendly. Cream sauces, good cheese, or an Italian vacation will pair nicely. $23 CSPC + 738040
Jaclyn’s first passion was winemaking. She’s worked in vineyards, cellars, and restaurants. Currently, she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer. She believes that a good life, like a good wine, is not complete without balance.
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Drinking Japanese
The Search For Single Malt In Japan by LISA KADANE
In a city of 13 million, you’d think it would be easy to find a Japanese whisky bar. But you can wander the tight warren of streets and alleys that comprise Tokyo’s Shinjuku district for nearly an hour before stumbling upon Three Bar.
Descend the stairs, and you’ll enter a smoky, dimly lit room that can only be described as a speakeasy. It’s tiny — three tables and maybe five seats at the bar, where tuxedoed bartenders are busy shaking and stirring with flair. After a brief “lost in translation” moment with the waiter, who misunderstands the intention to order Japan’s finest, two fingers of Nikka Pure Malt arrive and the communication barrier is overcome. Whisky speaks a universal language of barley, water and oak; it’s a welcome taste in a foreign city. By all accounts, Japanese whisky is becoming a welcome taste around the world. Buzz about the country’s single malt began when Bill Murray’s character immortalized the line, “For relaxing times, make it Suntory time,” in the 2003 movie Lost in Translation. Twelve 48
years later the buzz grew to a roar when another Murray — whisky expert Jim Murray — declared the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013 to be the World Whisky of the Year for 2015.
a good selection of all whiskies including a range from Japan. “But it is catching on.” And like any trend, once you get a taste, it’s fun to travel to the source for the full experience.
Though the hype has died down a notch, it’s clear the celebration is still in full swing in Japan, a country perhaps better known for sake and beer. How else to explain the canned whisky highballs available in vending machines, or the ‘salarymen,’ tipsy from after-work highballs, packing Tokyo’s trains?
Japan has been making whisky in the style of Scottish single malt for nearly 100 years. The country’s first distillery, Yamazaki, near Kyoto, is praised for its pristine water and ideal whisky-ageing climate (humid and foggy, just like Scotland). What’s more, though Japan has far fewer distilleries than Scotland — approximately nine to Scotland’s 98 — the distilleries make up for it by producing a huge variety of whiskies with flavours that range from light to full-bodied, and plain to peated.
“Japanese whisky is a thing, but it is a cult thing, not mainstream yet in Alberta,” says Andrew Ferguson, of Kensington Wine Market, which carries
Manhattan in Japan
Recipe courtesy Atushi Horigami, Zoetrope 1-1½ oz Chita Grain Whisky 1 oz Noilly Prat sweet vermouth 2 dashes Angostura bitters
In a mixing glass combine ingredients and stir with ice to thoroughly chill. Fine strain into a martini glass and serve.
Japonism
Water source for Yamazaki Distillery. Photograph courtesy Blake Ford
Yamazaki, for example, uses different stills and a variety of yeasts to achieve flavour variations, and then heats them directly by fire and indirectly with steam, because different heating methods further distinguish the character of the single malts. You’ll learn this on a Yamazaki Distillery tour, which is a good place to start on a whisky journey through Japan. The English audiotape also explains that various casks are used for ageing the whisky, from American white oak to ex-sherry casks from Spain, and ex-Bordeaux casks from France. The tour’s focus is on single malts with age statements, so it’s perplexing to see that the post-tour free whisky sample, Yamazaki Single Malt (a single-malt blend with no age statement), comes out in a large glass with a fizzy topper — it seems
Recipe courtesy Bar K, Osaka
counterintuitive to sample a product that’s been diluted with soda water. “It’s very common in Japan to drink it highball style,” explains the guide. Ask to sample it neat and you’ll be presented with Suntory whisky Kakubin. Kakubin is a blend made with barley and corn that’s smooth and sweet. It’s also the most popular whisky in Japan. To try the complex Hakushu 12; spicy, blended Hibiki 17; smooth Yamazaki 18, and other whiskies that better represent Yamazaki’s range, make your way to the distillery’s bar and pay for samples out of pocket. Whisky bars in Kyoto, Tokyo and Osaka have large selections available by the glass, served neat or over a giant sphere of ice, and the experience of finding them and squeezing inside their capsulelike quarters is priceless.
1 oz Yamazaki single malt 1 tsp sugar syrup 15 mL houjicha (a roasted Japanese green tea) or similar, chilled 1 dash orange bitters Garnish: skewered cherry and orange slice
Smoke a rocks glass with hinoki (a kind of Japanese cypress wood) or similar. Roll all ingredients over ice 7-8 times, then strain into the rocks glass, now filled with ice. Garnish with a skewered cherry and an orange slice. Lisa Kadane is a Calgary-based features writer. Follow her @LisaKadane, or read more about cocktail and spirits at www.lisakadane.com.
Sampling Japanese Whisky In Alberta Order a dram at these local watering holes: • Proof in Calgary includes 12
Japanese whiskies on its list, from Hibiki Harmony ($16 for 1 oz) to Nikka’s Tsuru 17 ($22 for 1 oz).
• The Bothy in Edmonton has two
Japanese whiskies on their list. The Karuizawa 27 Year ‘Noh’ Whisky ($37) and the Nikka 17 Year Old Taketsura
• Calgary’s Bourbon Room lists 16
Japanese malts on its comprehensive whisky list, including some harderto-find varieties such as Ichiros Chichibu Peated ($32 for 1 oz) and Nikka’s Yoichi 20 Year Old ($54 for 1 oz).
• Kensington Wine Market is
hosting a Japanese whisky tasting aptly called “Lost in Translation” on June 14 at 7 pm ($60). Register online at kensingtonwinemarket.com or call 403-283-8000.
• In Calgary, One18Empire features
six Japanese whiskies, from Nikka Pure Black Malt ($10.50 for 1.25 oz) to Chichibu The Port Pipe ($26.50 for 1.25 oz). 49
Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
“I always felt because I’d spent money on education, I had to make this career work, and that all I could do was to be an engineer, says Kara Chomistek. “Through Park I discovered that I really love making a difference in my community.” “I took art all throughout school, but the practical side pulled me, saying ‘you can’t have a career in the arts’,” Chomistek says. After an internship with Alberta Children’s Hospital, she embarked on a medical engineering program at the University of Calgary, but had a really difficult time with it. “I always like to challenge myself and I think engineering is still my biggest challenge,” she says. “I was very lucky that I had a really good group of friends through that program that speaks to the story of the bottle that I’ve been saving.” Graduating in 2010 with a biomedical specialization, Chomistek took a position designing medical devices for joint surgery – everything from ankles and knees to hips and shoulders. “I got to learn the whole process from the initial concept all the way to the final product,” she says. “I was building prototypes with our technicians, going to hospitals and testing the products on live patients.” But in school, Chomistek had felt a creative void. “All my friends had gone to ACAD, and I was a little left out,”
she says. “My peers were talking about how awful Calgary was for creative arts, and how they wanted to leave and go to bigger city centres, and it really broke my heart as I was born and raised here. I really wanted to try to change people’s opinions internally of Calgary.” So in 2008, Chomistek created Park, a free market sale on campus for student artists. The following year they ran a fashion show fundraiser, which sold out with a line-up round the block, and realised that they had really stumbled on something. Park fashion shows became so popular that Chomistek founded a non-profit in 2011. They couldn’t afford stylists so Chomistek did it herself, and won the Chinook Centre’s style contest. Offers of creative work snowballed, taking her focus away from engineering, and making her choose between the two careers. In 2012, she decided to pursue her passion, and Park grew exponentially. “I was able to take it to that next level, adding in culinary components, arts components, and had national media attention, it wasn’t just Calgary any more,” she says. Spring 2017 will see Park’s most ambitious project to date, a fashion trade show tying in all creative industries under one roof, and showing off both Calgary’s creative and culinary scene. So what bottle is Chomistek saving for a special occasion? While at university, 40 students went on an exchange program to Crete to
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take a technical course at the university. “To this day, the most memorable part of that degree was that trip,” says Chomistek. A Calgary professor from the region introduced them to the culture, including vineyard visits; the favourite was Manousakis Winery. “The people were so proud of their craft, and the things that they made,” she recalls. “At the end we had a big pig roast, it was one of those magical moments that you’ll remember forever”. They all brought back bottles from the trip. And when is she planning to open the wine? “I opened one of the bottles right away, and shared it with my family,” says Chomistek, “and I saved the Nostos syrah 2007. In 2017 we’re planning on having a reunion, so I’ve been saving it for the 10-year anniversary of that trip, and getting everyone back together.” Visit ourparkonline.com/parkshowcalgary for details of the upcoming Parkshow in Calgary, May 27 and 28.
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