ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 5 NO.2 :: JUNE 2016
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ALBERTA DINERS TO TRY
WHAT'S YOUR STYLE?
C O O L COCKTAILS
FOR SUMMER
Oregon Craft Brews | Spice Up Your Trifle | Fruit And Beer!
NEW YORK WINES: UNCORK COOL! When tradition meets New York’s fame for skillfully raising the bar of creativity, fantastic things happen. New York Wines are an example of mastering such a delicate endeavour. Uncork a bottle of our award-winning cool climate wines and find out what the talk is all about. Fox Run Vineyards Keuka Spring Vineyards Boundary Breaks Vineyard Brotherhood Winery Red Newt Cellars
Find these wines at
Represented in Alberta by North by Northwest Wine Imports
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29 VOLUME 5 / ISSUE #2 JUNE 2016
Features 14
Piedmontese Beef is a Family Affair Messinger Meats shifted gears in recent years, and is rapidly developing a cult following as one of the most unique meat producers in the province by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
22 Spice up your summer … with the exotic flavours of Tiki! by Patricia Koyich
18 Beyond Alberta: Montreal Montreal is famous as a food destination, but we’re delving deeper into some of the more obscure offerings that you’ll only hear about from the locals by Mallory Frayn
48 Making the Case: for barbecue all-stars by Tom Firth
24 Smoke and Fire Marshmallows and bourbon by Marcia J. Hamm
50 The Allure of Provence … and the history of its wines by Carolyne Kauser-Abbott
32 The French 75 A true classic cocktail by Brice Peressini
52 Summer Cocktails – for the whole gang! by Dan Clapson and Tom Firth
42 Garnish or Garish? It’s in the eye of the beerholder by David Nuttall
58 Open That Bottle: Tannis Baker of Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance by Linda Garson
29 Find Your Best: Diner What’s your ideal breakfast go-to? A star of You Gotta Eat Here, or a truck stop special? Our quiz will find out which Alberta diner spot is right for you by Anna Brooks, Dan Clapson, Linda Garson and Phil Wilson
Departments 6
Salutes and Shout Outs
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Book Review
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Off The Menu Briggs Kitchen & Bar’s Mushroom Devilled Eggs
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Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!
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Soup Kitchen
20 Step-By-Step: Jam Sandwich Cookies 26 Spice It Up: Trifle
44 Quenching Your Thirst … in Central Oregon by Lindsay MacNevin On the Cover: Many thanks to Dan Clapson for creating our thirst-quenching batch cocktails, and to Ingrid Kuenzel for photographing them so mouthwateringly!
Letter From The Editor
It's a great time for Culinaire, and we can't thank you enough for all the generous support, very kind emails, and good wishes we’ve received for our expansion to Edmonton. The launch was a huge success last month, and I suspect we’re going to have to increase our print run again very quickly to keep up with the demand!
I can’t even describe how it makes your heart sing to receive an email like this… Please let us have your feedback, whether so see our big news below! you are a reader, a food or beverage business or a supporter; we’d love to hear From a participant in the 2nd Annual Calgary Culinaire Treasure Hunt: your ideas for what you want to read about and your suggestions for local food Thank you so much for another and beverage success stories. Is there wonderful event. We all truly enjoyed a recipe you’ve always wanted from a ourselves, and are so grateful for the restaurant in Alberta? Any hidden gems day – let alone the prizes too! WOW. that we might not know about? You have once again outdone yourself! THANK YOU Linda! We’re celebrating the start of summer SK, Calgary which, for us, means getting outside and firing up the BBQ, and mixing cocktails SAVE THE DATE! too, as well as wishing a very happy Father’s Day to everyone who is a dad or With the great success of both our 2nd Annual Treasure Hunt in April, and our ever had one! Alberta launch last month, we have good news for our Edmonton readers And heartfelt sympathies go to the – we’re thrilled to announce the date residents of Fort McMurray; we’re donating 20% of every subscription from for our 1st Annual Edmonton Culinaire Treasure Hunt this autumn! Save now to the end of the year to the Red September 10th for one of the most Cross Relief Fund. fun and rewarding days this year, and watch July’s magazine and Cheers, culinairemagazine.ca for more details! Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief
Gathering family and friends together since 1959. italiancentre.ca EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End
CALGARY Willow Park
ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Commercial Director: Keiron Gallagher 403-975-7177 sales@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Sales Director: Lisa Wolansky 587-338-8780 lisa@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Digital Media Editor: Anna Brooks web@culinairemagazine.ca
Our Contributors < Marcia J. Hamm
Manager and wine buyer at Hicks Fine Wines in St. Albert, Marcia has a WSET Diploma in Wine and Spirits and is an Italian Wine Ambassador through the Vinitaly International Academy. Her expertise is the result of both passion and accredited learning. She owns a wine consulting business, Joy of Wine, hosting tastings both at Hicks Fine Wines and private functions. Marcia is truly a wine geek who considers wine a gift that must be shared.
Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Anna Brooks Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Mallory Frayn Marcia J. Hamm Karlynn Johnston Carolyne Kauser-Abbott Renee Kohlman Patricia Koyich Robyn Maclean Lindsay MacNevin Karen Miller David Nuttall Brice Peressini Phil Wilson
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca. Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
< Lindsay MacNevin
When Lindsay isn’t jet-setting around the world or racing to hit deadlines, she can be found drinking a pint of craft beer watching the Blue Jays game. As a freelance travel, beer and wine writer she spends most of her time on the go, seeking out incredible experiences. She can often be seen losing herself in a good book, tasting delicious wines and expanding her ever-growing collection of beer growlers from around the world.
< Phil Wilson
A food writer with a passion for local food, Phil spends his days testing out new recipes, enjoying expertly made drinks and sharing food with friends. He calls Edmonton home, where he lives with his wife, Robyn, and cats Baxter and Charlie. Phil’s blog, Baconhound.com, covers Edmonton’s food scene, highlighting the best it has to offer through his Food Odyssey series. Follow him @baconhound, and @realbaconhound.
All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
Salutes... Celebrations for Good Earth!
… on their silver anniversary! We love that they’ve stayed true to their original concept of great coffee and wholesome food in a community-orientated environment for 25 years, and have grown to over 45 locations - with more to come. That’s a real success story!
Seamus Dooley
Two Awards for River Café! Success For Offcuts!
Congratulations to the Calgary chefs and foodies who bared nearly all on the pages of the Offcuts 2016 Charity Calendar, raising funds to help feed Calgary kids. Sales resulted in a donation of $33,000 for Brown Bagging for Calgary’s Kids, providing lunches that give energy and nourishment to the 2,900 kids they feed each day.
Call For Entries for “Souper Kids”
Soup Sisters are holding a nationwide call for favourite family soup recipes from creative budding chefs aged 8-18, for their next cookbook, ’Souper Kids’. The book is a tribute to youth philanthropy and leadership, with all royalties from sales going to support youth in crisis. Submit entries at soupsisters.org before June 30.
Hats off to Sal Howell, who brought home the The Laurey Masterton Golden Amulet Award from the Women Chefs & Restaurateurs (WCR) “Women Who Inspire Awards”, exemplifying Masterton’s (culinary trailblazer and beekeeper) vibrant spirit and commitment. And a salute to her for donating the cash prize she received to the WCR Scholarship Program. More congrats go to River Café for its Hometown Hero Small Business Award, in recognition of the restaurant’s support of environmental initiatives and sustainable practices.
One of 75 Best Restaurants for Brunch in Canada
The Lake House has been named one of the 75 Best Restaurants for Brunch in Canada, from more than 275,000 reviews for around 1,700 restaurants submitted by OpenTable diners across the country between April 1, 2015 and March 31, 2016. The restaurant was chosen for its ability “to create a culinary experience and atmosphere that leaves diners with memories they cherish all year,” says Ziv Schierau of OpenTable Canada. Congratulations!
Celebrating 40 years of Cheese making!
Alberta Cheese Company Ltd, of southeast Calgary, has been making cheeses following traditional manufacturing processes since 1976 for Alberta’s cheese lovers, retailers, and food service providers; you’ll recognise its “Franco's Brand” of hard and soft cheeses. Happy birthday to Alberta Cheese, here’s to many more! 6
Seamus Dooley to represent Canada!
Congratulations to Seamus Dooley, sommelier at The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, on winning the national trials for La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs International Jeunes Sommeliers Competition. Successful in the theory, service, and blind tasting tests, Dooley will now go on to represent Canada at the upcoming international contest for professionals between the ages of 21 and 30, held in Liechtenstein this August. Good luck Seamus!
Winners of the Alberta Burger Battle
Now in its fourth year, Alberta Burger Fest is celebrating the biggest burger battle to date with 105 restaurants serving up everything from fish burgers to dessert burgers – and plenty of Alberta beef too. Hearty congrats to $10 champ Burger 320’s Food Truck, Naina’s Kitchen for their second win of the $15 category, and to third time winners of the $20 category, NOtaBLE. And it’s all for such worthy causes - 10% of all proceeds are being donated to five kids foundations. It’s a win:win:win!
Big Wins for Sea Cider!
Family-owned, organic cidery and orchard, Sea Cider of Saanich, BC, has been awarded seven medals at the world’s largest cider competition, the Great Lakes International Cider and Perry Competition, taking home three gold, two silver, and two bronze medals!
and Shout Outs... PZA Parlour
The
Sherry Cask connoisseurs
www.glendronachdistillery.co.uk
We only put our name on the world’s finest sherry casks.
INTRODUCING Welcome to Calgary, PZA Parlour!
This new restaurant at Southland Crossing is modern and lively with quirky fun touches, yet draws on 40 years of family tradition and experience (think Stromboli Inn and Villa Firenze). 3rd generation Tony Nicastro is putting his own stamp on the menu, eschewing 00 flour for his own blend, and a 3-day process to produce the fluffy and chewy pizza dough. Traditional pizzas are numbered 1-15 in Italian, while eight PZAs are named after family members. Be sure to share some appie plates though - the crunchy calamari and crispy zucchini are as promised, and come with very tasty dipping sauces. And to finish, try Ciambelle, PZA’s signature housemade donuts with Nutella. There’s a private room for 50 people, a patio opening soon, and most of the menu available for take-out now.
PEATED Nearly 70% of the flavour in whisky is derived from the cask it has been matured in. Wood’s important, which is why we adopt a ‘no compromise’ approach when choosing our world renowned Sherry casks to enrich our whisky.
Hit the road!
We may not grow grapes in Alberta, but our beverage scene is attracting national attention with award-winning craft breweries, distilleries, meaderies and fruit wineries. The Sippin’ Alberta Guide Book is now ready for you to download at albertaculinary.com, detailing these small craft businesses split across six regions of Alberta. Get ready for an adventure this summer – where will yours begin? Sup up!
The GlenDronach - Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky Pioneers of sherry cask maturation since 1826 www.glendronachdistillery.co.uk
Book Review by KAREN MILLER
Batch
Joel MacCharles & Dana Harrison Appetite by Random House 2016 $35 Sometimes it’s hard to get excited about a new cookbook when you have 1000+ already. But Batch, a first cookbook by bloggers MacCharles and Harrison, managed to delight! The cookbook is about all the different technical things you can do in the kitchen to stretch your food budget or preserve market fresh foods, a “preserving” book on steroids so to speak. The authors explain how easy it really is to preserve a variety of foods using seven different preserving methods: water bath canning, pressure canning, dehydration, cellaring, salting and smoking, infusing, and the oh so trendy fermenting. They also insist you do not have to invade the kitchen for marathon days of making big batches, even going so far as to suggest making a small batch of jam or pickles while making dinner! The first part of the cookbook begins with detailed explanations of the essential equipment for each process, really useful pros and cons, and the important do’s and don’ts. Each preserving process is clearly explained, and you get a true sense of the familiarity with the subject matter. The second part of the cookbook puts those processes to work, and organizes nose to tail preserving techniques for 25 common market ingredients, with more recipes incorporating the ingredients. My favourite is one for Blueberry Gin (page 135) where you have to drink part of the gin bottle first before you can start! What may have started as a way to manage food waste in their kitchen, has turned into a manual that takes the intimidation out of trying these techniques in your kitchen. It's a really wonderful tool to have if you are looking to undertake the challenges to make the most of your food. Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.
INTRODUCING
Off The Menu by LINDA GARSON photograph by INGRID KUENZEL
Briggs Kitchen + Bar's Mushroom Devilled Eggs are a long-time staple on their menu – for a very good reason – they’re very popular. We’ve talked about them before, and when they appeared on our front cover last month, it reminded some of you to ask for the recipe. Many thanks to Chef Xavier Lacaze for sharing it with us! Mushroom Devilled Eggs Serves 8, 3 pieces each
12 eggs, hard-boiled 275 g white mushrooms, sliced* 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 2 Tbs (28 g) chopped shallots 2 Tbs (28 g) unsalted butter 12 egg yolks 2/3 cup (160 mL) Mayo 3 Tbs (45 mL) Dijon mustard To taste salt and pepper 12 thin slices chorizo, to garnish Parsley, chopped, to garnish
1. Place eggs in a large pot in one layer and cover with cold water, and bring to a boil. Boil for 9 minutes and refresh under cold water until the eggs are completely chilled.
2. Wash and roughly slice the
mushrooms. Peel and chop the shallots into 5 mm dice.
3. Heat oil in a large frying pan. Add
mushrooms and shallots and season generously. Cook 1 minute on high heat, then add cubed butter. Cook for another minute and cool down on a tray.
4. Peel the eggs under cold water
with a strainer (to keep the shells from plugging the sink), and cut them in half lengthwise. Scoop out the egg yolks and set the whites aside in the cooler until needed.
5. Using a food processor, mix together the egg yolks and now cold mushrooms until smooth. Add the mayo and Dijon and mix again until smooth. Check and adjust seasoning. Transfer into a piping bag tied at the top and keep cold.
6. Cut chorizo slices in half, and in a frying pan, dry fry with no oil until crispy.
7. Before serving, lightly season each
egg white and stuff them up to 1 cm over. Garnish each with a chorizo crisp, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. *Note: Briggs smoke their mushrooms in their Josper oven (an indoor charcoal barbeque), so the mushrooms have a smoky flavour. Chef Lacaze says if you’re at Briggs eating his devilled eggs, ask, and if available, he’ll give you some smoked mushrooms to take home! If there’s a dish in a local restaurant that you’d love to know how to make, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track it down for you!
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Chefs' Tips Tricks! story by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL and MELANIE SWERDAN
Ahhh summer. For the next few months, backyards throughout Alberta will be filled with the smell of hickory and smoke, the sizzle of perfectly seared meat (hopefully), and the buzz and camaraderie that comes with long summer days and nights hanging outside with friends and family.
Workshop Chimichurri
Grilling
Two prominent Alberta chefs are eager to share their expert guidance to help you achieve master griller status this summer. Whether grilling a premium cut of meat or a humble vegetable, they can help lead you to grilling glory.
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pepper (or a steak spice of your choosing). Then move your meat to the medium-low side and slow cook to finish to your desired doneness. Only at this stage would I recommend brushing with a marinade or BBQ sauce (or the Chimichurri from the recipe below) as they burn easily on higher a heat. Because steaks and other meat come in different cuts and thicknesses, always use an instant read thermometer to determine doneness. (135º–140º F for medium rare). A good thermometer is a cook’s best friend, and makes preparing meat pretty foolproof, leaving NO excuse for over or undercooked meat. Chef Kenny Kaechele
Chef Kenny Kaechele
WORKSHOP Kitchen + Culture (Calgary) Although one might think grilling a steak is a no brainer, not all steaks are created equal, so there are a few tricks to ensure consistency, perfect texture, and juicy flavour all summer long. “You get what you pay for, so always choose high quality product and cut. After a long workweek, you deserve nothing but the best. So treat yourself. Personally, I love a good New York steak striploin for home grilling,” says Kaechele. “My first tip is to always start with a clean grill surface, so burn off any old food and give your grill a good scrape. Now you’re ready for some proper grilling. I’m a fan of the twotemperature sear and finish method. Set your BBQ on high heat on one side, and medium-low on the other, making sure you give your grill adequate time to get up to temperature. Always sear your meat on the high heat side first for about 90 seconds per side, rotating a quarter turn halfway through,” he advises. “At this time, season liberally with kosher salt and freshly ground black 12
Once cooked to your liking, give that steak a good rest – it worked hard to get this tasty! By letting the steak rest on a plate for 5-10 minutes, the juices will have a chance to redistribute themselves throughout the steak. This will ensure each and every bite you take is dripping with juicy goodness. And finally, it’s not a requirement, but I love melting some butter on top of the steak as it’s resting, it really brings all the flavours together!”
Workshop Chimichurri
Serves 2-6, depending on size of steak 12 basil leaves 1 garlic clove ½ bunch Italian parsley ¼ bunch cilantro Pinch of cinnamon ½ tsp ground cumin 1 tsp kosher salt ½ tsp smoked (or regular) paprika ¼ cup (60 mL) red wine vinegar ½ cup (120 mL) olive oil
Combine all ingredients in blender or food processor and mix until a coarse paste consistency. Spread on meats as they are cooking on the lower heat of the BBQ. *Be careful not to marinate meats too far in advance, as the vinegar will cure the meat.
Chef Lindsay Porter
El Cortez Mexican Kitchen and Tequila Bar (Edmonton) Vegetables are most definitely the underdog of the BBQ. But they cook quickly and are so delicious with just the hint of smoke from the grill. The bonus is you don’t have to stress too much about whether they’re over or undercooked like you do with meat.
You don’t have to stress too much about whether they’re over or undercooked
“I love grilling vegetables,” says Porter. “I typically go with red peppers, asparagus, red onion and zucchini, but to really balance the flavours and add texture, I like to mix it up with grilled apples, pears, kale, Belgium endive, thinly sliced sweet potato or butternut squash. Vegetables dry out when they hit the heat without a little oil, so be sure to marinate in olive or canola oil, just enough to coat, but not saturate. Avoid using too much though, as
To prevent burning, you can sear the veggies over a high heat to get a good char, and then move them to a cooler part of the grill to finish cooking throughout. Or you can precook them and just give them a few minutes on the grill to get some colour on the outside. Personally, I like to keep the temperature consistently in the medium range, being careful to not have the grill too hot, as a lot of veggies and fruit contain sugars that can easily burn.
Chef Lindsay Porter
it’ll only add unnecessary calories and unwanted flare-ups,” she warns. “One of my favourite seasoning methods is to thinly slice garlic with a
Grilled Fruit and Vegetable Salad Serves 4
1 red apple, cut into 8 wedges 1 red pear, cut into 8 wedges 6 stalks of kale ½ sweet potato, cut into 5mm wedges ¼ cup (60 mL) honey ¼ cup (60 mL) apple cider vinegar
mandolin until almost paper thin. This produces a strong roasted garlic flavour and helps to crisp it up as it sits either in a pan or directly on the grill, quickly saturating the vegetables. ¼ cup (60 mL) cold pressed canola oil 1 green onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, thinly sliced (preferably with a mandolin) ½ bunch of herbs of choice (mint, dill, thyme, parsley) ½ cup pumpkin seeds, almonds, or pecans Salt pepper to taste
Grilled Fruit and Vegetable Salad
Finally, I love chilling to make a colourful vegetable fruit salad topped with either a honey lemon or honey apple cider vinegar dressing. And voila! It makes for a bright, healthy lunch or a tasty addition to dinner.”
Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer, with a passion for food and beverages. Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage, AK, you can still find her on Twitter @robynalana
1. Turn the grill to a medium heat. Toss the fruit and vegetables in a bit of the oil, and add salt and pepper to taste.
2. Place the sweet potato on the grill first, giving it a 2-3 minute head start.
3. Add the apple, pear and kale, and
char for about 5 minutes until starting to soften but still crunchy on the inside. When the kale begins to crisp, char and wilt, remove from the grill.
4. Once the sweet potato is soft but
still has a slight bite, remove all the fruits and vegetables and set aside in a bowl to cool.
5. Whisk together the honey, apple
cider vinegar, canola oil, green onion, garlic, herbs, and salt and pepper.
6. Pour the dressing over the fruits and vegetables, just enough to coat but not saturate. Sprinkle with your choice of nuts or seeds.
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Messinger Meats Makes Piedmontese Beef a Family Affair by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH
Every weekday morning, Mercedes Messinger drives from her meat processing plant in Mirror, Alberta (about a half hour east of Lacombe) to the Italian Centre Shop in Calgary. Her company, Messinger Meats, has a large display counter near the front of the store, stocked with sausages, pork roasts and chops, bison, elk, and perhaps most importantly, a variety of cuts of Piedmontese beef. Every morning, Messinger personally drives product down from her plant to fill the counter — a necessity since by the next day she is almost always greeted by a near empty case. “Sometimes I’ll put out 10 Tomahawks and go back to the cooler to get more 14
meat, and what I’ve just put out is gone by the time I get back,” she says. “But it is a joy to come here every day because I meet my customers. I come here every day, and I meet people and hear what they say, and I just enjoy it.” Messinger and her husband Joe moved to Canada from Germany (they worked in butchery there as well, but wanted to try something new) in the early ‘00s and bought their meat processing plant in 2004. After experimenting with various business models (including operating a storefront right out of the plant, drawing in a dedicated clientele despite their remote location) and experiencing relative degrees of success, Messinger Meats shifted gears in recent years. Through a partnership with the Italian Centre Shops in both Calgary and Edmonton, the label is rapidly developing a cult following. While everything Messinger sells is
made with the same level of dedication (the company is dedicated to healthy, hormone and chemical-free meats, and takes pains to slaughter the animals as humanely as possible), the aforementioned Piedmontese beef has made them one of the most unique meat producers in the province. Piedmontese beef has made them one of the most unique meat producers in the province Piedmontese beef comes from an Italian breed of cow — a few were shipped over to North America in the ‘70s and there are currently about 15,000 head in North America, making up less than one percent of the cattle on the continent. After tasting it for the first time a few years ago, Messinger instantly fell in love and decided it was the only beef
she wanted to sell. She sources the Piedmontese solely from Peony Farms, a Lacombe farm owned and operated by Peter DenOudsten and his family. The cows themselves have a gene that creates something called “double muscling,” which affects the length of the fibres of the muscle and the texture of the meat, and is also lower in cholesterol and calories, and is higher in protein and Omega 3 and 6 fat. The flesh of the meat is a darker colour than you’ll usually find in Alberta, and also cooks about 30 percent more quickly. “The double muscle gives them a finer muscle fibre, so when you eat that meat you don’t have to chew the big fibres,” Messinger says. “It’s naturally more tender — there’s no tenderizing necessary. And we don’t have to hang it; there’s now this big trend with dryaging, but that’s not necessary with the Piedmontese beef, it’s just perfect the way it is.” If the Piedemontese is what makes Messinger Meats’ product line special, it’s the company’s commitment to maintaining a small family business and building relationships with the like-minded partners that makes their
business equally as special. Messinger closed her shop in the plant after she was invited to open a meat counter at Sinnott’s Independent in Red Deer, which she figured would be more convenient for her customers. From there she developed a deal with the Italian Centre Shop’s Teresa Spinelli and now Messinger’s meat (and by extension, Peony Farms’ Pidemontese) is available exclusively in Edmonton and Calgary at Italian Centre Shop locations (Red Deer customers can still find it at Sinnott’s Independent). Messinger also recruited her three adult children, who left their existing careers to help with the business (just as Messinger drives to Calgary to stock the shelves each day, her daughter drives up to Edmonton), and that family connection is central to her business acumen. She knows that she could have gone with a larger grocery chain, hired non-family staff, and put her meat on a truck every day, but it’s just not how she wanted to do it. With her current model,
everything stays in the family, she’s able to keep costs down, get her product to the people, and feel good about her contributions to the community. “The Piedemontese beef goes from the farm family to our family to the Spinelli family to your family,” Messinger says. “I want people who have normal families to be able to afford the healthiest meat available. Teresa has the same philosophy, we are both agreed on that.” Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, and co-founder/co-editor of RollingSpoon.com and Wapawekka.com. She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs.
Soup Kitchen story and photography by DAN CLAPSON
Soup may have had its heyday during the winter months of 2016, but that’s not reason to retire a soup pot altogether for the summer. For those (hopefully only occasional) rainy days look to Caribbean jerk spices to add that tropical heat when the sun’s not shining. The fresh-from-the-garden tomatoes are key in making that soup truly outstanding, so let’s hope you have a green thumb. When the sun comes out,
a good gazpacho can always hit the spot, so we’ve got you covered there too. Here are two satiating and simple soup recipes that you can whip up come rain or shine, with no complaints from your dinner guests.
Jamaican Jerk Garden Vegetable Soup Serves 6 Total cook time 30 minutes 8 cups (2 L) vegetable broth 3 Tbs (45 mL) Jamaican jerk paste* 2 Tbs (30 mL) honey 1 Tbs (15 mL) tamari 1 Tbs (15 mL) tomato paste 5 cm piece of ginger root, peeled 3 medium carrots, 7 mm sliced 1 yellow zucchini, halved and thinly sliced 1 green zucchini, halved and thinly sliced 1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced 1½ cups 2-3 cm chopped green beans To taste salt and pepper 2 tomatoes, halved and 7 mm sliced
1. Bring the first 6 ingredients to a boil on medium-high heat. Reduce to medium heat and let simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes.
2. Remove ginger, add-in carrots and let cook for 10 minutes.
3. Next, add in remaining vegetables
and cook until green beans are al dente, 16
approximately 4-5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. To serve, distribute tomato slices
evenly into 6 bowls, and ladle vegetable soup overtop.
5. Eat immediately and feel content. *You can find packaged versions at some grocery stores, but I buy this locally-made paste from Wings ‘n’ Tings at Calgary's Crossroads Market. It’s fantastic!
05 05 15 Culinaire Artisan Ad May.pdf
Tomato and Artichoke Gazpacho with Grilled Shrimp
Producer of Canada’s Best Red Wine...
Six times
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Serves 6 Total cook and prep time 30 minutes 8 large tomatoes, halved 2 red onions, halved 4 Tbs (60 mL) canola oil 1 jar marinated artichoke hearts 1 lemon, zest and juice 4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth 1 cup (240 mL) white wine ½ tsp chili flakes 1 tsp sea salt ½ tsp ground black pepper Olive oil, enough to emulsify, approximately ¼ cup (60 mL) ¼ cup fresh Italian parsley leaves, loosely chopped
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3. Remove from grill and let cool slightly.
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4. Place into blender or food processor with the next 7 ingredients and blend until smooth.
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When the sun comes out, a good gazpacho can always hit the spot
1 bunch scallions, grilled, roughly chopped 18 large prawns, grilled, shells removed
5. Slowly pour in olive oil while pulsing,
1. Preheat barbecue to 400º F, or
6. To serve, portion gazpacho into 6
relatively high if you don’t have an accurate temperature gauge.
2. Toss tomatoes and onions in canola oil and grill (tomatoes bottoms down) until tender and show light grill marks, about 8-10 minutes.
and let mixture emulsify. Fold in parsley leaves and place in refrigerator to chill until ready to serve. bowls (or stemless wine glasses if you want to be fancy). Top with a spoonful of roasted scallions and 3 prawns. Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside
artisanwines.ca @artisanwinesCA
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Beyond Alberta: Montreal by MALLORY FRAYN
Montreal has a reputation for being a city of excess, whether food-related or otherwise. There are plenty of stereotypes; the hunt for late night poutine, the abundance of foie, and Mile End bagel rivalries abound. Waiting in line for smoked meat at Schwartz’s, or fried bologna sandwiches at Wilensky’s are definitely things to add to your Montreal bucket list, but they are surely not the be all end all when it comes to eating out in Quebec’s largest city. First things first, if you want a stellar Montreal dining experience, you have to look further than the tourist centres. The architecture in Old Port is amazing, and Notre Dame Basilica is a marvel to look at, but choosing to eat in this part of town more or less means settling for a non-descript, probably over-priced meal. Yes, Chuck Hughes’, Garde Manger is in Old Port, and there are other restaurants worth visiting, but I would recommend walking away from the cobblestone streets to find a more out of the way dining destination. When people ask the number one must-visit restaurant in Montreal, I say without hesitation, Le Mousso. Having lived in the city for less than a year, it is the place I have frequented most. Their tasting menu is a bit of a splurge, but for $60 a pop, it is above and beyond what you would get at any American or 18
European Michelin star restaurant for the same or greater value. Chef Antonin Mousseau-Rivard’s food is nothing short of genius, with dishes like deconstructed borscht, and blood sponge cake with shallot ice cream. If it sounds unnerving, I can promise you, it is not. If you are looking for something a bit more budget-friendly, take advantage of the city’s abundance of BYOW (Bring Your Own Wine – or beer) restaurants; corkage fees not required. Le P’tit Plateau has been around for decades
and is serving up French favourites like duck confit and foie gras terrine. Their braised lamb shank is a sight to behold as well – a massive hunk of meat that could easily feed two. Khyber Pass is also an unassuming option, serving Afghani food along one of Montreal’s
Le Mousso
Le P’tit Plateau
most restaurant-dense streets, Duluth. This street is also home to Le Prunelle (also BYOW), the popular Le Réservoir microbrewery, and the iconic Au Pied de Cochon. Speaking of Au Pied, if you plan your trip to Montreal well in advance, try to get a reservation at their Cabane à Sucre, or Sugar Shack. Located about 45 minutes west of downtown Montreal, they offer seasonal feasts during both the sugaring off (spring) and harvest (fall) seasons. In between meals, it is always important to find snacks to fuel your travels, and Montreal has plenty of those to go around. If salt is your thing, the frites at Patati Patata are an addictive, crispy treat, and the poutine – yes the beloved Montreal poutine – at Greenspot Diner is guaranteed to hit the proverbial spot. Hof Kelsten
On the sweeter side of life, the chocolate babka (a decadent chocolate swirl bread) at Hof Kelsten cannot be missed, nor the buttery kouignamann at the appropriately named Patisserie Kouign-Amann. For the best bread in the city, I would recommend Boulangerie Guillame on St. Laurent. You cannot go wrong with any of their loaves, especially the quinoa and sesame, or the traditional levain. Continue further up Boulevard St. Laurent and you’ll find yourself in Little Italy, which is home to one of the oldest outdoor farmers’ market in North America, Jean-Talon. It is open year round, but it’s best to visit in the
Jean-Talon
heart of summer when the produce is at its freshest, and is surprisingly cheap as well. If you have a kitchen at your disposal during your visit to Montreal, it is definitely worth your while to hit up Jean-Talon to shop for some farm fresh ingredients to cook up yourself. Or, you can take advantage of the city’s laisse-faire public drinking laws, pop into the SAQ (Quebec’s provincial liquor store) for a chilled bottle of rose, pick up some charcuterie from Les Cochons Tout Ronds and some cheese from Fromagerie Hamel (I would recommend Bleu d’Elizabeth from Quebec), and head to the nearest park for a picnic. Parc Jarry is closest to Jean-Talon Market, but Parc La Fontaine and Parc Jeanne-Mance are both popular destinations during the summertime. If you’re in the Little Italy area and would rather have a sit-down meal, Salmigondis is a sure bet for brunch, lunch, or dinner. Their sister restaurant, Arts Café, over in the Plateau, is also a local favourite for a well-made latte
Salmigondis
or a glass of wine with dinner, not to mention it is right down the street from the Montreal institution, Fairmount bagel. After so much eating, a little bit of exercise is no doubt welcome, so take a stroll up to the top of Mont Royal to look out over the city and contemplate where your next meal is going to be. You’ve still yet to explore Little Burgundy and the now worldrenowned Joe Beef empire, or the lesser known, but equally fantastic, Patisserie Rhubarbe, where they are cranking out some of the top-notch pastries in the city. Montreal is an amazing destination for food on a superficial level, but delve deeper into some of the more obscure local offerings, and you will never want to leave.
Boulangerie Guillame
Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat 19
Step By Step: Jam Sandwich Cookies story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN
With summer literally days away, local farmers’ markets will soon be flooded with luscious fruit and berries. I can’t contain my excitement. After eating all the apples and oranges this winter and spring, I’ll be glad to slice into peaches and nectarines, and the first pluck of a raspberry off the patch in the backyard is nothing short of spectacular. There is a sour cherry orchard not too far from my cousin’s farm, and lucky me, they always bring in overflowing ice cream pails of these jewel-like gems and leave them on the front step if I’m not home. Those are the best days in the middle of August. 20
Sure, pitting is the worst part, and the counters and sink look like a massacre just took place, but the effort is worth having these sour cherries in your freezer for the winter. I love cooking them down with sugar, and making a compote of sorts. It’s lovely folded into crêpes, stirred into yogurt, layered between chocolate cake and even spooned on top of the morning’s oatmeal. This compote is also fantastic sandwiched between your favourite cookie, making “jam jams” – at least that’s what my family calls them. The cookies are soft and chewy, bursting with the heartiness of oats and the aromatics of cinnamon and allspice. Chopped pecans lend some crunch, and applesauce is the secret ingredient that not only adds moisture but makes
these favourable for breakfast as well. At least that’s the excuse I tell myself when I grab some while running out the door in the morning. Both the compote and the cookies are delicious on their own – but together they are something fantastic
Simply slather a bit of compote on the bottom of a cookie and top with another. That’s it. That’s all. Both the compote and the cookies are delicious on their own – but together they are something fantastic. I imagine them in backpacks and coolers this summer, being carried along on camping trips and picnics, or wherever the adventure leads you.
Oatmeal and Sour Cherry Jam Jam Cookies Approximately 48 oatmeal cookies or 24 jam jams.
Compote: 4 cups pitted sour cherries, fresh or frozen ¾ cup granulated sugar
Cookies: 3½ cups large flake oats 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp ground allspice ½ tsp salt 1 cup unsalted butter, softened 1 cup packed brown sugar 1 cup granulated sugar 2 large eggs 1 Tbs (5 mL) vanilla ½ cup (120 mL) applesauce 1 cup chopped pecans or walnuts
Compote: Combine the sour cherries and sugar in a medium saucepan and stir over high heat. Once the mixture is boiling, reduce the heat to medium and let it simmer for 20-25 minutes, until it is reduced and thick. Remove the pot from the heat and let the compote cool completely.
To make the cookies: 1. Stir together the oats, flour, spices, baking soda, baking powder and salt in a large bowl.
6. Scoop out rounded, heaping
2. In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugars on high speed until light, about 2 minutes.
edges are lightly browned and the top is puffed and set. Remove the cookies from the oven and let cool completely on the baking sheet.
3. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat for
8. Once all of the cookies have been
4. On low speed, add the dry
9. Store jam jams in the refrigerator for
5. Preheat the oven to 350º F and line
Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club. Also, check out her blog www.sweetsugarbean.com
another 2 minutes, being sure to stop and scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl once or twice. Beat in the applesauce. ingredients and mix until incorporated. Stir in the nuts, and be sure to scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl. Refrigerate the cookie dough for 1 hour. 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
tablespoons of cookie dough, leaving about 7.5 cm of space between the cookies.
7. Bake for about 8-9 minutes, until the
baked and are cool, spread about 2 tsp of sour cherry compote on the bottom of one cookie and top with another cookie. up to 3 days. Freeze the oatmeal cookies for up to 1 month.
Spice Up Your Summer With The Exotic Flavours Of Tiki! by PATRICIA KOYICH
Inspired by the stories and travels of Ernest Raymond Beaumont Grant, who later became “Don Beach”, the loosely South Pacific-themed “Tiki” culture originated in the 1930s. Grant returned from the South Pacific with tales of an exotic tropical paradise. The mystique of his grand experience cultivated his creation “Don the Beachcomber” located on Hollywood Boulevard in Los Angeles. Through flaming torches, bamboo/rattan furniture, and flower leis, he transformed his bar to emulate those experiences. A few years later, Victor Bergeron transformed his Oakland saloon into “Trader Vic’s” after returning from his own experience in the South Seas, turning his restaurant into an incredibly successful restaurant chain worldwide. The cocktails at both locations were served in glassware that was said to be inspired by the Tiki carvings and mythology they “witnessed” as well as exotic garnishes and flowers. These now famous cocktails such as the Mai Tai, Planters Punch and the Zombie, pose some difficulty in finding their true origins – or any documentation for that matter, but both Victor and “Don” lay claim to being the creators of the original recipes. The next time in history we read or see any reference to Tiki culture occurs after the Second World War, when interest in the South Pacific blossomed, prompted by returning WWII veterans, who spoke of their travels and any fond experiences they may have had during the war. Postwar America (and Canada) also saw the rise of the middle class in conjunction 22
with travel becoming increasingly affordable, including newly established flights to the Hawaiian Islands. At this time, James Michener wrote Tales of the South Pacific, which became a Pulitzer Prize-winning bestseller in 1947, and eventually the incredibly famous musical “South Pacific”. Later in the ‘50s and ‘60s, Hollywood interest spawned a multitude of films with Hawaiian themes – who can forget those Elvis movies, like “Blue Hawaii” in 1961? If you are too young to remember this, ask your parents or 'grandparents... their eyes will either gleam with excitement or they'll roll them at the thought of all the flowered shirts, ukuleles and rum-fueled hangovers. These cocktails can also pack a tasty “punch” Tiki cocktails typically, and traditionally, include a combination of quality rum(s), fresh fruit, tropical fruit juices, sweet and spicy syrup like Don’s mix, cinnamon, nutmeg or Orgeat (almond syrup). Garnishes could be exotic fruit, unique swizzle sticks or tiny umbrellas, real flowers, dry ice, or occasionally even flames. One can often be fooled by these exciting flavour combinations and exotic presentations, as these cocktails can also pack a tasty “punch”, pun intended; the
danger being the flavours are so good that one often turns into one more! For those who have been in Calgary a long time, we had our own version of a Tiki bar in the late ‘70s and early ‘80s. You may recall celebrating a birthday, anniversary or graduation at the Tiki Tiki Polynesian room? Pineapple passion, scorpion cocktails, and pu pu platters were on the menu, hula dancers were on the stage – yes this was in Calgary. The resurgence of Tiki culture occurred in the latter part of the 1990s, but never to the intensity of those “early years”. Today, our cocktail culture is expanding, and with great intensity; everything old is new again. Tiki cocktails can be found when travelling in small little Tiki bars, like the famous Tonga room in San Francisco, and in Chicago at the recently opened Dot Dot Dash. They are out there, you just have to search for them. Today, in Calgary, however, you will have to create your own Luau themed party unless you want to check out Surf Rock Wednesdays at Cannibale, where our friend Mark Roeric is serving up Tiki cocktails and sharing plates. Either way the thought of sipping on one of these exotic recipes, letting your mind wander to the beach with sounds of surf and ukulele, with a beautiful sunset… sounds fantastic! Maholo!
The Jungle Bird
1½ oz Black Strap rum ¾ oz Campari 1½ oz pineapple juice ½ oz lime juice ½ oz simple syrup
Combine all ingredients into a cocktail shaker. Add ice. Shake. Strain over ice into a rocks glass. Garnish with a pineapple wedge.
Zombie
1½ oz Amber rum 1 oz 151 proof rum ½ oz Falernum 6 drops of Pernod 1 dash of angostura bitters ½ oz Don’s mix 1 tsp of grenadine
Mix in a shaker with ice and pour into tall glass. Alternatively, it can be blended with ice too. Don’s Mix 1 cup sugar 1 cup water 3 cinnamon sticks, crushed
Bring to boil, stirring until sugar dissolves. Simmer for 2 minutes, remove from heat and let sit for at least 2 hours before straining into a glass bottle. To finish the mix, add one part of the simple syrup to 2 parts of grapefruit juice.
Scorpion
2 oz light rum 1 oz cognac 2 oz orange juice, freshly squeezed preferred 1½ oz lemon juice, freshly squeezed preferred ½ oz Orgeat syrup
Combine all ingredients over crushed ice, stir and garnish with a gardenia or exotic fresh flower and fresh fruit slice. Patricia Koyich was born and raised in Calgary, and considers Calgary one of the best cities in the world. She continues to inspire, learn and achieve within the Food, Beverage and Tourism industry.
2 t gemen | (403) 201-349 a n a New M | Calgary, ABy, & France r e d il S tal Un ils Peru, I leod Tra or deta From Mac ore f 14359 Unique Wines ale | See in-st lowout
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Smoke and Fire by MARCIA J. HAMM
Isn’t it cool when an accidental food and drink pairing occurs? We all might know that port and blue cheese or Chablis and oysters go hand in hand, but one of the joys of food and drink is finding a surprisingly good fit that you didn’t expect. Let me introduce you to the match between bourbon and toasted marshmallows! A friend of mine shared this happy accident last summer, and I’ve only recently tried it myself, and I can honestly tell you… it was worth the wait! With long summer evenings and backyard fire pits or campfires
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upon us, why not have a little “adult” indulgence? “All bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon” (insert southern drawl). Ask any producer of Kentucky Straight Bourbon, and he/ she will likely quote you that. Even though it has Kentucky Straight on the label, it is a product of the
United States and can be made anywhere in the USA. Kentucky is known for its fresh water on a limestone base, which is why so much of American bourbon is made in Kentucky. It makes it taste better. So what makes bourbon… bourbon?
There are five basic requirements separating bourbon from whiskey: –– The “mash bill” or blend must be at least 51 percent corn –– The barrels must be new, charred American oak, used only once –– The whiskey must be aged for a minimum of two years in the barrel (to be labeled straight) –– The “white dog” (clear distilled spirit) cannot be distilled higher than 160º proof and cannot go into the barrel any higher than 125º proof (divide the proof in half to get your alcohol by volume) –– No additional colour or flavour may be added. All the ‘good stuff’ happens in the barrel. American oak tends to be intensely flavoured with sweet vanilla overtones known as lactones. Char the inside of the barrel and these flavours intensify further, not to mention this is where the spirit’s colour comes from. Finished bourbon has vanilla, smoky butterscotch, caramel, and a really nice sweetness about it. Marshmallows, the other part of this “happy accident” are sugar, water, and gelatin, and are one of the earliest confections known to mankind. Most kids love them – in hot chocolate, Rice Krispie squares and s’mores, or toasted over a fire with all that gooey goodness. What’s not to like? The toasty sweet caramel and burnt sugar, with a hint of smoke on the marshmallow, blends perfectly with the smoky vanilla and butterscotch flavours of the bourbon. Try Bulleit Bourbon Frontier Whiskey (about $40 CSPC +734590) or kick it up a notch with Woodford Reserve (around $75 CSPC +480624). Don’t cheap out on the marshmallows either, if you don’t make your own, a premium brand will do just fine, or a store brand as long as they are nice and fluffy! A happy accident indeed... Marcia J. Hamm is the manager and wine buyer at Hicks Fine Wines in St. Albert. She is truly a wine geek who considers wine a gift that must be shared!
Escape today on our patio.
For reservations call 403 268 8607 or visit heritagepark.ca
Spice it up:
by KARLYNN JOHNSTON
While traditional English trifle starts out seasons and use gingerbread at Layers of delicate sponge a classic sponge cake, followed by Christmas, lemon pound cake at Easter cake sandwiched between with an egg yolk custard and fresh fruit, the and even mini-doughnuts during the heavy-handed dollops of possibilities for trifle flavour variations summer months. Klondike Days and are almost endless. Here are a few ideas The Calgary Stampede are just around sweet pudding and fruit are get you trifling like you never knew the corner after all! nothing to be, well, trifled to you could trifle this summer. with when it comes to Stuck in the middle Let them eat cake… or brownies… one of the most summery or cookies... Whether you’re opting for curds, dishes in the dessert world. custards or puddings, this layer is an Whether served in a wide-mouthed column of glass on a stand – also known as a trifle bowl – or individual cups, the luscious layers of this sweet treat beckon us to grab that long-handled spoon and dig in.
Try to think beyond sponge cake when you are choosing your main component. Use your favourite brownies, blondies, cookies or even doughnuts when it comes to this layer. Embrace the
important one when thinking of the overall flavour. Sweet-flavoured gelatin, fresh whipped cream or light-as-air chocolate mousse, are all perfect summertime choices to be paired with seasonal fruit offerings. You can even try a simple pie filling using fresh in-season B.C. blueberries, jam or jelly for an extra element too!
Everything in-between This is where you can get truly innovative with your trifle. Chopped soft caramels pair perfectly with vanilla pudding. Chopped peanut butter cups are a match made in heaven when combined with a decadent chocolate mousse. Adding some marshmallows and graham cracker crumbs can easily turn a chocolate-based trifle into a S’mores delight. Top it with meringue and then torch the top for maximum “oh”s and “ah”s! At Halloween you’ll find me using chopped-up mini chocolate bars, and the same can be said for any leftovers the Easter bunny brings. Fruit will always be the most popular choice here, so remember to use the freshest, ripest fruit you can find, especially during the summer.
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Summer Strawberry White Chocolate Trifle
Serves 5-6 Total prep time 4 hours 35 minutes Angel food cake or Panettone, cut into 2.5 cm pieces 3-4 cups of fresh strawberries, washed, hulled and sliced 175 g of white chocolate, chopped, extra for garnish if desired 4 Tbs whipped cream, to melt into chocolate 3 cups of whipped cream 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla one large trifle bowl
1. Combine the chopped
white chocolate and the 4 Tbs of whipped cream into a heavy saucepan and place over medium heat. Continuously stir until the white chocolate melts and the mixture is smooth. Set aside and cool the white chocolate mixture for minimum 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Beat the three cups of chilled
whipping cream plus the vanilla in a large bowl until soft peaks form. Whisk in the cooled white chocolate mixture. Set aside.
3. Take half of the cake pieces and
press into the bottom of the trifle bowl gently, making sure there are no gaps.
4. Place a third of the strawberries
on top of the cake, and place one half of the whipped cream mixture on top. Repeat the layer with cake, strawberries and whipped cream.
5. Sprinkle the top with the remainder of the chopped strawberries and then grate some white chocolate on top for garnish if wanted.
6. Let chill in the fridge for at least
4 hours, overnight is best. Serve cold and enjoy! Full-time blogger, baker and recipe maker, Karlynn can be found fluffing her culinary feathers on her awardwinning website, TheKitchenMagpie.com. Follow her on Twitter @kitchenmagpie.Â
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Find Your Best: Diner by ANNA BROOKS, DAN CLAPSON, LINDA GARSON AND PHIL WILSON
As much as we all love a beautifully-composed plate of eggs benedicts with the perfectly toasted English muffins placed just so, with impeccably drizzled Hollandaise and a few microgreens to bring everything together just right... sometimes a good quality diner breakfast does just fine too. If you’re not sure if you’re in the mood for fried eggs with an extra side of bacon at the truck stop, a classic, no-frills grilled cheese sandwich with processed cheese (hey, everything in moderation!) or a big ol’ pile of pancakes at a hipster-chic breakfast spot, take this quiz to find out which diner-style spot is for you. 1. I will wait in line for approximately… 4. When I’m having a bite at a diner, I a) 15 minutes. Maximum. want to drink… b) An hour. I am hungry, but as long as a) Coffee and juice. I have a coffee while I wait, I’ll survive. b) A caesar or a beer! c) Wait? I can’t wait! My kids are going c) A milkshake. It’s the weekend and to freak out. I’m treating myself! 2. The price price tag on my diner meal 5. When I think of the term “diner should be… food” I think of… a) Fairly inexpensive. About $15/person a) Good portions, fair prices and a including coffee seems reasonable. kitschy interior. b) I will always pay a good amount for b) A place where my friends and I can good food! cure our hangovers. c) If it’s a diner, it should be cheap. c) Regretting my choice to eat End of story. pancakes and eggs and bacon and hashbrowns approximately 2 hours 3. Yes or no: Locally sourced ingredients after. are something I expect to see on a diner menu. 6. I know diners aren’t always for a) I’m indifferent. breakfast, so if it’s not a weekend b) Yes, it is nice to see, but I morning, the other time you might know doesn’t always happen at find me at a place like that would be… spots like this. a) Probably for lunch during the work c) No. week with some co-workers.
b) Late, late at night after the bar has kicked me and my buddies out. c) No other times. Weekend breakfast or nothing! 7. When I travel to a different city, I like checking out a diner or two because... a) Greasy spoons are always good for people watching. b) Each one usually has a one-of-akind gluttonous dish on the menu. c) You can usually know what to expect from the menu and atmosphere. 8. True or false. I will specifically drive to a place if I’ve seen it on You Gotta Eat Here or Diners, Drive-ins and Dives. a) It depends on how cool it looks on an episode, I guess! b) Truth! Those shows usually find the best spots! c) False. Television can’t tell me what to do. That’s what Netflix is for! 29
Calgary Diners
Breakfasts, and even a toy locomotive speeding around the restaurant, stepping foot into the Blackfoot Diner really feels like stepping all the way back in time to 1956.
OEB
(mostly ‘A’s) In 2009, Mauro Martina set out to create a chef-driven restaurant that would take traditional breakfast dishes to the next level – and OEB, or Overeasy Breakfast, has been a hit from the minute it opened its doors. About 1,400 customers sit in OEB’s 36 seats every week, almost half just at weekends. The décor is fun, but OEB is serious about ingredients. Their own hen flock produces the 3,000 free range, dark yolk, omega-3 eggs that they go through every week (they served 180,000 eggs in 2015!), and Paolini’s Meats makes their exclusive gluten-free sausages. Potatoes are twice fried in organic duck fat.
A very affordable menu (maybe their prices haven’t changed since 1956!), the Blackfoot Diner covers everything from a classic hot roast beef sandwich to homemade pancakes and waffles.
Blackfoot Truckstop Diner (mostly ‘B’s)
As far as history in Calgary goes, Blackfoot Truckstop Diner has become a landmark for locals and transients alike. With red leather booths featuring stitched traffic-themed backs, Trucker’s
One of the best parts about the diner? It’s always full. Whether you’re going in for a family dinner or need a midnight snack (yes, they’re also open 24 hours a day), it’s hard to call yourself a Calgarian if you haven’t trucked over to the diner! 1840 9 Avenue SE, Calgary 403-265-5964
There are many highights on this menu; try the Box’d breakfasts, OEB’s take on breakfast poutine, with playful names and add-ons like lox (‘A-Lott A-Lox’), black truffles and pork belly (‘Gold Digga’), pulled chicken (‘Chasing Chickens’), duck confit, and lobster. Or ‘My Mom Can’t Make This…’ – a French Toast Trifle with Meyer lemon curd… 824 Edmonton Trail NE, Calgary 403-278-EGGS (3447)
Galaxie Diner
(mix of ‘A’, ‘B’ and ‘C’) Galaxie Diner is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, although you could be forgiven for thinking it’s been around fifty years more, with its 1940s classic diner look, the vintage booths and open kitchen. Proprietor Brad Myhre also owns the smoked meat shop next door, Myhre’s Deli, and you can enjoy his Montreal smoked meat in a hash as well as an omelette at Galaxie. "We specialize in feeding friends, families, and hangovers," they’ll tell you, and you’ll know why when you choose 30
from the All-Day Breakfast or All-Day Lunch menu. Breakfast Burritos are legendary, and filled to bursting with scrambled eggs, cheese, bacon, sausage, mushrooms, peppers and more – $11.75 for one or $15 for two! And it’s here you’ll find probably Calgary’s only one price, unlimited choice omelette. There are 13 different ingredients to choose from – go on, see how many you can try. Don’t say we didn’t warn you; all the portions are generous at Galaxie – come hungry! 1413 11 Street SW, Calgary 403-228-0001
Edmonton Diners
The Downtown Diner, Fort Saskatchewan
Hathaway’s Diner
(mostly ‘B’s)
(mostly ‘A’s)
Every great diner needs great pie, and Hathaway’s Diner has old-school pies that would make your grandma swoon. A rotating selection of cream pies like chocolate or coconut cream, and fruit pies such as the quintessential Apple Pie, call to you for dessert – or even for dinner, there’s no judgement here. Coowner Pam Charlet knows her pies are good, she makes them all herself, and she will sweet talk you into having a slice every single time you stop by. Pam’s husband Lyle heads the kitchen, slinging all day breakfast selections like bacon, eggs and pancakes, along with lunch staples like clubhouse sandwiches, and turkey dinners. Hathaway’s
combination of down-home food and small town friendly service are definitely reminiscent of days gone by. Be warned, though, this small neighbourhood diner closes early (4pm) and doesn’t open on Sundays. 13225 132 St NW, Edmonton 780-488-5989
You know those crazy food ideas you get when you’ve had a drink too many with friends? Keith Bramley, owner of The Downtown Diner, not only has those ideas, he puts them on his menu. Need proof? Check out Bramley’s Shepherds Pie Burger, which is the diner’s homemade burger patty, topped with a panko crusted mashed potato cake, smothered in gravy and the requisite veggies to keep your mom happy. Or maybe the Downtown Diner’s take on the Monte Cristo is more your style – it’s wrapped in puff pastry and baked until it’s golden brown and the cheese is perfectly gooey. The milkshake flavours are too numerous to count, from favourites like chocolate and strawberry to whimsical creations like peanut butter and jelly. No matter the flavour, they will leave you full and happy. Whatever you choose, when you slide into the ‘50s style red vinyl booths to sample their unique spin on diner classics, you’re guaranteed to get great homemade food at great value. 10209 100 Ave, Fort Saskatchewan 780- 998-1435
Blue Plate Diner
(mix of ‘A’, ‘B’ and ‘C’) Nestled in the heart of downtown Edmonton on 104 Street, the Blue Plate Diner boasts a colourful room filled with paintings by local artists. The mismatched, vintage table sets and glassware offer a homey, kitchen feel, and a comprehensive menu caters to a diverse downtown clientele. Scanning the menu, you’ll find the diner standards are all there – meatloaf, mac and cheese, and burgers of
course. Don’t be too quick to order or you might miss some not-so-typical selections like polenta cakes, or maple glazed cornbread. The Blue Plate Diner also has a selection of well thought out vegan and vegetarian options, like curry chickpeas with paneer, so there will be no need to “just have the salad.” On a warm, summer Saturday, with the beloved City Market bustling on its doorstep, this funky spot is the place to be. 10145 104 St NW, Edmonton 780-429-0740 31
The French 75 by BRICE PERESSINI
Quick – what has as much punch as a WWI French artillery gun, but is as classy as a Parisian ball? Answer: The French 75. The French 75 is a true classic cocktail. Refreshing, effervescent, and elegant... just like the artillery gun it was named after. There were mentions of similar
mixes as far back as Queen Victoria’s time, however the first named recording (in 1927) of the modern day drink happened during the darkest of times: prohibition. It has been a long time since those cold, dry days, so what has given the French 75 such staying power over nearly a century of existence? Unlike us humans who, no matter how great we are, all have a shelf life, great cocktails don’t expire.
The French 75 is as refreshing and sexy in 2016 as it was back in the 1920s. The bite of the gin (or cognac), the tartness of the lemon, the sweetness of the sugar along with the effervescence of the bubbles, creates a delightful cocktail easily enjoyed on any occasion. Part of what makes this cocktail fun is the world of variation that can be brought to it. The flavour (and cost) of the French 75 will change grandly depending on the gin and bubbles used. These variations allow for a broad spectrum of flavours to be embraced when creating your own French 75. Of course the important thing is that you enjoy what you are consuming. The second most important thing (of course) is that you look good with your drink in your hand, and the French 75 helps you do just that. And if you don’t look good, just have a few more and everyone else will.
Royal French 75 Recipe 1 oz Hennessy VS Cognac ½ oz fresh lemon juice ½ oz 1:1 simple syrup 3 oz Moët & Chandon Champagne
Wet shake the cognac, lemon juice, and simple syrup together. Double strain into a Champagne flute and top with Champagne. Garnish with a lemon twist. The above recipe is the best version I’ve created; this is the perfect celebration cocktail. However it is quite expensive, so feel free to substitute your favourite gin for the cognac, and your favourite sparkling wine for the Champagne, for more reasonably priced versions. Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar. Whisk(e)y is his poison. Neat. 32
Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Last Call! Be in it to win it! Registration deadline is July 1st.
Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20 Visit culinairemagazine.ca/aba to enter your wines, beers and spirits for the 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards. For more information, contact competition director Tom Firth: tom@culinairemagazine.ca
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Tour the awe-inspiring 15-kilometre Naramata Road, and bottle up your adventures to take memories home. Okay, maybe someone else will put those memories in the bottles for you — as the motto of the Naramata Bench Wineries Association (NBWA) goes, there’s “a story in every bottle.” Concentrated along the Naramata Bench, you’ll find the 28 member wineries of the NBWA including Bella Wines, Bench 1775 Winery, Black Widow Winery, D’Angelo Estate Winery, Daydreamer Wines, Deep Roots Winery, Elephant Island Winery, Hillside Estate Winery & Bistro, Howling Bluff Estate Winery, Kettle Valley Winery, La Frenz Winery, Lake Breeze Vineyards, Lang Vineyards, Misconduct Wine Co., Monster Vineyards, Moraine Estate Winery, Nichol Vineyard, Perseus Winery, Poplar Grove Winery, Quidni Estate Winery, Red Rooster Winery, Serendipity Winery, Terravista Vineyards, Therapy Vineyards & Guesthouse, Three Sisters Winery, Tightrope Winery, Upper Bench Winery & Creamery, and Van Westen Vineyards.
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• At Poplar Grove Winery, you’ll be reaching for a thesaurus to express the depth of experience. There’s such a sense of place in this striking structure situated next to Munson Mountain. As you pass through the artistic stone and iron gates, the splendour of the panoramic vineyard views overlooking Penticton and Okanagan Lake mesmerizes you. That’s the prelude to the winery itself and the details inside, such as the stunning tasting room with knowledgeable staff guiding you through the sumptuous wines.
A diverse group, the NBWA members share a welcoming spirit. Rekindle your enthusiasm for old favourites or discover new wineries, vintages and culinary options. Taste all the added deliciousness this season at new wineries including Bella Wines, Daydreamer Wines and Three Sisters Winery; as well the debuts of the Sig’s
and experience blending seminars. Join in the fun at events and festivals. Speaking of flagship events, mark Saturday, September 10 for the 13th Annual Naramata Tailgate Party to be hosted at Red Rooster. Tickets sell out earlier each year so watch for ticket sales in June, and purchase early.
Rekindle your enthusiasm for old favourites or discover new wineries Grille at Therapy; an outdoor lounge at Quidni; and the Bistro at Bench 1775, adding to your dining choices along the Bench. Check out naramatabench. com frequently, clicking the links to the wineries’ websites for information and exciting happenings. Explore opportunities to truly engage in the stunning settings with special tastings, art exhibits, vineyard and cellar tours, meet winemakers
Each winery offers a unique story and tasting experience. You’ll be captivated by the drive as you wind along the country road from the City of Penticton to the Village of Naramata, encountering pastoral orchards and vineyards overlooking Okanagan Lake. Following the well-marked trail, dipsy doodle down side roads to the wineries at your leisure or opt to engage one of the wine touring companies. Take for example, these wineries:
Tantalize your taste buds further with The Vanilla Pod restaurant and Chef Bruno Terroso’s contemporary cuisine. Or opt for a special food-and-wine pairing experience in the iconic Barrel Room. A senior member of the team will lead a small group through a personalized flight of five wines paired with five tasting plates. For further details and to purchase your ticket to this once weekly event scheduled through the summer, see poplargrove.ca. If you prefer, linger on the patio and build your own sensory exploration of wine, food and vistas. Perhaps you too, will notice that the rose tones of an Okanagan sunset are captured
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dine. This season, Executive Chef Brent Pillon ascends to its helm inscribing his signature on the local and sustainable menu. Open daily for lunch and dinner, watch for special functions. Imagine a wedding or anniversary on one of two patios with breathtaking garden, vineyard, orchard and lake views.
If you prefer, linger on the patio and build your own sensory exploration of wine, food and vistas in the Blanc de Noirs Rosé. To get advance notice on its release as well as exclusive, library and new release wines, consider Poplar Grove’s Wine Club. Through it, you’ll also get discounts on wine purchases, suggested wine-pairing recipes created by BC’s finest chefs, invitations to events including its famous annual Wine Club BBQ, privileged access with advance reservations to the private tasting room, loyalty rewards and referral benefits.
EXPERIENCE UPPER BENCH THIS SUMMER
• Hillside Winery & Bistro’s 72-foot tower draws you from the Naramata Road or the Kettle Valley Trail. Outstanding wines and cuisine ensure you’ll return. In 1984, grapevines replaced apricots, and Hillside is the original BC winery to produce Muscat Ottonel, a unique aromatic white wine with huge flavour and devoted following. Hillside is also renowned for the vast grape varieties grown perfectly, then transformed to award-winning wines under winemaker Kathy Malone’s direction. Joining the Wine Club enables access to limited selections and benefits, like priority patio seating, special events invitations, and discounted wine and merchandise in the Wine Shop – open daily through the summer to 7 pm. The highly acclaimed Bistro was recently voted one of Canada’s top 100 patios to
• Red Rooster Winery invites you to get to know the winery from the inside out in pre-purchased Red Rooster Tasting Experiences. Have fun as you walk through the entire winemaking process in a relaxing environment. Taste premium wines as you develop a personal connection to the product and staff behind the scene. In International Blind Tasting, journey from BC to all corners of the wine world. Taste vintages from Italy, France, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, and of course, BC. The knowledgeable staff will test your palate in the private room as you taste blind to see if it’s a Merlot or Syrah, Riesling or Gewürztraminer and discern the difference of varietals grown around the world. Wine and chocolate, who knew? In the delectable Chocolate and Wine Tasting, a whole new world of chocolate pairings is revealed uncovering more
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than you thought you needed to know about chocolate. How about cheese? Food and wine go hand in hand. While many wines are enjoyable on their own, delving into food and wine pairing adds an exciting and different element. In the Cheese
on as you partake in a variety of local Okanagan Cheese. Visit Red Rooster to admire amazing art punctuating the gorgeous view. If that drums up an appetite, fear not, The Pecking Room Patio Grill is onsite. Here, Chef Darin Paterson, of Bogner’s
Discern the different taste sensations... and how they work to complement different grape varietals Tasting seminar, discern the different taste sensations, sweet, savoury and spice, and how they work to complement different grape varietals. Naturally, it’s hands-
of Penticton, has created another wonderful menu. His love of diversity in cultures and life shows in the food. Indulge in a glass of wine with his delightful farm-to-
table cuisine. Open for lunch, 12 noon to 3:30 pm, and Happy Hour, 3:30 to 5 pm. • Perched, centrally along Naramata Road at one of the oldest vineyards, is Bench 1775 Winery with a spectacular view of Okanagan Lake and its fantastic beach. General Manager/ Winemaker Val Tait, leverages her winery experience and wealth of viticulture knowledge to create “great wines made in the vineyard”. With a desire make Bench 1775 “a quintessential place for people to enjoy when they come to this vacation paradise”, events are scheduled including live music. A new Bistro, open from 11 am to 7 pm, augments the casual picnic area, to provide casual fare to pair with the affordable, high quality wines. • TripAdvisor’s rave reviews about the knowledgeable staff, “adorable, clean and well-maintained” setting, and quality of wine compels a visit to “hidden gem” Moraine Estate Winery. Bring a picnic or select items from the cooler to nibble alongside the award-winning wines. At the 2016 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition, Riesling 2015 achieved Gold; Cliffhanger Red 2014, Silver; and Gewürztraminer 2015,
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Bronze. At the International Pinot Competition, it was Double Gold for Pinot Noir 2013 and Bronze for Pinot Noir 2012. • At Kettle Valley Winery, something old is new again. The oldest original owners’ winery on Naramata Bench, Kettle Valley started with two buddies making wine as a hobby in an apartment. Ultimately, they became brothers-in-law, secured the third winery license on the Bench, and are making their 25th vintage this year. What’s new is the recent portfolio of Great Northern Vineyard wines, which features their wives’ Cawston vineyard in the Similkameen and th son Andrew Watts’ skills as assistant winemaker.
Something old is new again... Kettle Valley are making their 25 vintage this year
• From engaging labels, delectable wines, relaxing location, and romantic suites, Therapy Vineyards & Guesthouse offers a refreshing tonic for what ails you. At Sig’s Grille @ Therapy, owned by Ken Lauzon of Penticton’s Black Iron Grill,
WINERY JOIN OUR WINE CLUB TODAY! OKANAGAN
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Join our wine club to receive 15% OFF on all orders! Receiving Bench 1775 wine that is available ONLY to Wine Club Members. Receive a $25 coupon redeemable in wine shop or online for each new memebership referral.
Visit www.bench1775.com to join online or call 250.490.4965 Ext 107 to join today.
1775 NARAMATA RD, PENTICTON, BC V2A 8T8 250.490.4965 | www.bench1775.com
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find your cure in grilled comfort cuisine. If music heals you, enjoy free bands, 1 to 4 pm, every Saturday from July 1 through to September 3. Wine production has increased to 12,000 cases and the ever popular “Super Ego” Meritage blend has returned. • Upper Bench Winery & Creamery, gateway to the Naramata Bench as you travel from Penticton, offers Canada’s first Curds & Corks Club. Reap the benefits of two passions in cheesemaker Shana Miller’s hand-crafted cheese, and winemaker Gavin Miller’s artisan wine. This season expect many big, bold and beautiful new reds including Yard Wine, Four Shadows Vineyard-specific Merlot sourced from neighbours south of Upper Bench, and a delicious 100 percent Cabernet Franc Rosé. Sip luscious wine and nibble on cheese plates as you relax on the covered patio. • What began as a family haven for magical holidays, summer picnics, and orchard adventures, Elephant Island Winery is celebrated for wines made from fruits other than grapes, using traditional winemaking practices. Now offering a small lot portfolio of grape wines, it remains a place “to be amused and amazed by wines that seek to capture the spirit and essence of fun and whimsy.” Its Tasting Barn frowns on “wine snobbery”, encourages bringing your pets on a leash, and welcomes children to the toy stocked kids’ centre. With such joy, let your Naramata Bench wine touring journeys begin.
For more information, visit www.naramatabench.com
Garnish Or Garish?
It’s In The Eye Of The Beerholder by DAVID NUTTALL
Fruit and beer have a history as strange bedfellows. Fruit was a common ingredient when ancient brewers would throw everything but the kitchen basin into beer to complement or counteract the sweetness of the grain bill. Fruit beers, however, gradually died out everywhere except Belgium, thanks to regulations like the Reinheitsgebot (German Beer Purity Law of 1516) and the rise of what
is now called the Standard American or International Lager, made by Big Breweries world-wide over the last 170 years or so. In its stead, drinkers in some countries took to adding fruit syrups to their beer upon serving. The British have their shandy, and lager and lime; the Germans add a shot (mit schuss) of various fruit flavours to a Berliner Weisse; the continental Europeans mix (usually) lemonade in to create radlers; Canadians add clamato; Americans add tomato juice; Mexicans add tomato juice, lime, and spices to make micheladas… the list goes on.
Nowadays, almost anything goes
However, thanks to the Craft Beer movement of the last 30 years, fruit beers have returned with a vengeance, blending almost any fruit with almost any beer style to create some truly unique beers. That is one part of the fruit equation, but what about its use as a garnish? Well, that raises a bit of controversy. Beer purists believe a beer should stand alone on its own merit, and the addition of any kind of adornment is blasphemous. Less rigid drinkers say the garnish can enhance some qualities in the beer. Some feel it simply adds to the presentation, and bartenders enjoy beautifying a beer much the same way they primp up a cocktail. Others say it’s just a gimmick. 42
Whatever the reason is, fruit happens. Probably the most famous use of fruit is the wedge of lime with Corona. Served this way mostly in the U.S., Canada, and tourist locales of Latin America, its origins are bathed in mystery. It began in the early 1980s, as Corona was on its way to overtaking Heineken as the largest selling import in the U.S. The lime wedge is served on top of the bottle, and the customer pushes it into the neck. Why? Reasons abound; it adds flavour to the beer, it masks any skunkiness resulting from the beer having been exposed to light through its clear bottle, it can wipe away any rust stains from around the rim caused by the beer caps, it keeps away flies, or it’s a clever marketing ploy. For whatever reason, it’s now become the norm with several Mexican lagers. Wheat beers are another style regularly accompanied with fruit. Again, it is the Americans who began doing this in the 1960s with imports from Germany. The tartness of citrus fruit accentuates certain properties of the weizen yeast and the citrus qualities of the beer. Lemon slices usually accompany German weizens, while orange slices tend to be served with wit beers, to complement the orange peel already in the beer. In addition, almost any fruit beer can have the fruit dropped into its glass. Nowadays, almost anything goes. Olives get plonked into IPAs, chocolate powder is used as a rimmer for stouts or porters, chili peppers are put into lager bottles, pumpkin ale glasses get rimmed with a cinnamon and sugar mixture… the modern rule is there are no rules. While many enjoy bedecking their beer, others
are not so sure. They say it tampers with the flavour of the beer, or it causes the head to collapse and ruins the carbonation. Of course, the customer can always ask for the beer without the garnish, but rest assured – as long as bartenders have imaginations, there is no way this practice is going to end.
wheat ale, this time made with whole raspberries. Slightly cloudy with a golden colour and a pink tinge, this is Wild Rose’s best selling beer. A local favourite all year round, it’s often served with raspberries. CSPC +766766 $17.00 6-pk. bottles
Brewsters Brewfoot Blueberry Ale and River City Raspberry Ale, Calgary
Here are some beers that commonly come with fruit garnishes:
Belgian Moon, Colorado, USA
New to Alberta, this is currently the number one selling craft beer in the U.S. under its original name of Blue Moon (which can’t be used in Canada). It is a Belgian style wit beer made from barley, wheat, and oats with Valencia orange peel and coriander. This unfiltered ale is crisp and full of orange flavour, making it a great patio beer. Often served with an orange slice on the side of the glass. CSPC +779174, $17.50 6-pk. bottles
Big Rock Grasshopper, Calgary
Grasshopper exemplifies the evolution
3:46 PM
The moment your senses became one with your surroundings.
of fruit garnish with beer. When it debuted in 1994, it was the first Canadian-made wheat ale in Alberta, simply served in a tall glass. For the past couple of years, that glass now has a lemon slice clinging to it, pairing it with the citrus flavours of this kristallweizen (filtered wheat ale). CSPC +718471 $16.00 6-pk. bottles
Wild Rose Wraspberry, Calgary
Probably the first beer served in Calgary that had fruit in the glass. Another
Do you know you can buy many of this brewpub chain’s beers in liquor stores? These two light bodied wheat ales have a similar base beer, with the Brewfoot containing a blend of 10 types of blueberries to give it a slightly bluish hue, while the River City has 100 percent raspberry puree added, producing a slightly reddish colour. At their brewpubs, both come with the appropriate fruit floating on the top. What you do in the privacy of your own home is up to you. CSPC +770048 (Brewfoot), +770047 (River City) $16.00 6-pk. bottles
Fairmont Hotel Macdonald is excited to announce our Patio Kitchen is open. Join us for a well-deserved afternoon of relaxation and immerse yourself in the sounds of our sizzling bar-be-que, the tastes of our Classics. Perfected cocktail menu and the best patio view the city has to offer.
T: 780-777-9818 E: mac.dining@fairmont.com
Quench Your Thirst In Central Oregon by LINDSAY MACNEVIN
Brewing culture is hopping in the state of Oregon. With the booming success of Deschutes Brewery, one of the first craft breweries in Central Oregon, the way was paved for other unique and unquestionably brilliant breweries to start popping up in the area. Beer aficionados are flocking to the state in hopes of discovering oneof-a-kind brews at one of the many up and coming craft breweries.
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Given that this state ranks number one in the percentage of dollars spent on craft beer in the USA, and number two for breweries per capita, it wouldn’t be hard to find somewhere to quench your thirst. What better way to explore this region full of natural wonders than to follow your thirst through some of the most innovative and successful craft breweries in the country? From those tested and true breweries to newer ones that have opened in recent years, the Oregon breweries are keeping customers happy with their dazzling recipes for unique brews and distinctive pubs. Oregon is arguably one of the best places for craft beer lovers to visit in North America. To welcome in the
warm weather, several beer festivals take place across Central Oregon including Central Oregon Beer Week, a festival that caters to those looking for special brewery tastings, release parties and live concerts. As summer kicks into full swing, July is designated “Oregon Craft Beer Month” and offers 500 events happening in more than 60 different cities. The month of August brings Bend Brewfest, a celebration of craft beer in the Northwest. Whether you are looking for a weekend getaway or a vacation of a lifetime, make sure to check out the best and most interesting breweries here.
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Share a special moment together on Father's Day.
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Crux Fermentation Project
Tucked in the Old Mill District, beer lovers will find Crux Fermentation Project, a joint venture between three men, including Larry Sidor, the longtime head brewer of Deschutes Brewery. Sidor has made it his goal to create bold, full-flavoured beers that you won’t find anywhere else. Bringing in grains
and malts from around the world, and mixing different strains of yeast using an open fermentation brewing method, has led to beers that will literally knock your socks off. The Tasting Room, situated smack dab in the middle of the brewery allows beer lovers to watch the brewing process.
McMenamins
This brewery takes pride in its commitment to brewing “green” and believes that it is the only responsible way to brew. McMenamins uses second-hand equipment, recycles and reuses materials, and makes sure to give all waste to farmers for further use. This “green” outlook hasn’t taken away from producing incredible beers such as Hammerhead, Ruby, and the Terminator Stout, a full bodied ale that
boasts an array of chocolate, nutty and coffee flavours. There are 17 breweries throughout Oregon based in historic buildings, lighthouses, old schools, and other creative places, and it is easy to see why this brewery is so well-loved.
Deschutes Brewery
One of the first craft breweries in Central Oregon, Deschutes is now the sixth largest craft brewery in the United States. Expanding into such a large brewery hasn’t stopped them from creating incredible award winning beers and welcoming brewpubs. The downtown location in Bend is one of the favourites, as an eclectic mix of people are always found there trying out one of the 19 taps that constantly change. The motto at Deschutes Brewery has always been “Do your best and next time do it better”. The beers here speak for themselves – don’t miss out on award winners such as Black Butte and Mirror Pond, (available in Alberta).
Silver Moon Brewery
A stop at this brewery is a must for any trailblazer in Oregon. Silver Moon started as a brew shop but has evolved into a local brewery and tasting room that features live music and holds amazing events. The array of beers is simply overwhelming at times with 16 taps featuring favourites such as Voodoo Dog, Snake Bite and Mango Daze. Head brewer Jeff Schauland is the genius behind these beers, trained in Chicago and Germany. Besides being known for amazing beer, make sure to try the nachos at the brewpub, hailed as being the best in town. 46
Sunriver Brewing
Head Brewer, Brett Thomas, brews some of the best small-batch beers around town using the crystal clear water of the nearby Cascade Mountain Range. The family-friendly atmosphere here includes a mix of skiers and those who flock to the breathtaking village of Sunriver. Make sure to give the Chalk Rock Amber Ale a try at the brewpub, as it is only available there. A kid’s zone provides a place for the wee ones to play while you adults enjoy wonderful food, fantastic beer, and a breathtaking setting.
NEW Ruffino Sparkling Rosé is fresh and fragrant with alluring flavours of strawberries and white fruits that linger through the finish.
Boneyard Beer
This neighbourhood brewery is hailed as being one of the best in Central Oregon. Despite its small size with a simple tasting room and growler fill station, the beer makes up for its size. It is rare to find a brewery that makes excellent beers in all categories, that is until you find your way to Boneyard. On-tap beers change daily, but their two IPA’s (RPM IPA and Hop Venom, their double IPA) are two of the most popular taps, even for those who don’t generally drink a typical IPA. The tasting room is full of vintage and antique cans and bottles along with some of the friendliest staff around. For now, visiting the small tasting room and getting a growler is the only way to get your hands on these amazing beers. As a freelance travel, beer and wine writer, Lindsay splits her time between jet-setting around the world and curling up at home with a fine glass of red wine or a pint of craft beer.
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Making The Case:
Barbecue All-Stars by TOM FIRTH
Barbecue! Hell, yes! Here in Alberta, we love to fire up the gas grill, light some briquettes, or break out the big green egg and cook outdoors. While the most devoted fans of the barbecue work it year-round, the average Jane or Joe probably spends winter (like I do) staring at a snowcovered grill and counting the days until shorts can be worn, and maybe even the chance to cook outside without a jacket. Meat is usually the star of the show for the barbecue, but seafood, grilled veggies, kebabs, or even fruit can make an appearance. While beer can be the star of the show for
M. Chapoutier 2012 Les Meysonniers Rhone Valley, France A well-known bottle to a lot of Albertans, Les Meysonniers is bursting with slightly jammy berry fruits, cedar and cherry goodness, and a nice amount of complexity and depth finishing on a slightly earthy finish. Drink or cellar a little, it will definitely work for some summertime entertaining. CSPC +721522, About $30
cooking al fresco, breaking out a nice bottle of wine can be very welcome indeed. Father’s Day makes an appearance in June (June 19 – mark it on your calendar), and while it might be tempting to crack open a bottle of whisky, don’t forget that there is a wine to go with every food you can imagine. Happy Grilling, and to all the dads out there – happy Father’s Day!
Nugan Estates 2012 Drover’s Hut Single Vineyard Chardonnay Riverina, Australia A very pleasing and modern style of chardonnay – one that is easy to drink and shows a lot of varietal character. Look for citrus tones with a little apricot and mint leaf, sage, and good texture on the palate. Insanely quaffable, should go well with anything that once swam in lake or sea. CSPC +767831 About $16-17
Tinhorn Creek 2012 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, B.C Limited to about 300 cases, and sourced entirely from fruit on the Black Sage Bench, I’m a big fan of this franc. Cherries and violets with loads of spice on the nose, and a barely there, resinous character. Pepper spice and bell peppers on the palate with tight, ripe berry fruits from start to finish. Tasty stuff! CSCP +530717 $28 48
St. Francis 2013 Old Vines Zinfandel Sonoma County, California
Ehret 2009 Bella’s Blend Knights Valley, California
Cedar chip and blueberry fruits with menthol and Cherry Blossoms (you know-those cherry covered chocolates). On the palate, quite juicy with rich expression of fruit and quite mellow tannins. Very agreeable, and a crowdpleasing style at a crowd-pleasing price. CSPC +767830 About $16-17
Very enjoyable from start to finish with slightly brambly berry fruits, plenty of spice characters, and the right sort of acid and tannin balance to work with a variety of smoked or grilled meats. A touch hot on the palate, I think it would work very well with some saucy ribs! Judges choice at the 2015 Alberta Beverage Awards. CSPC +421974 about $28
Maybe you like to plan ahead? Or have someone planning for you. The current vintage of this gem is the 2009, based around 75 percent cabernet sauvignon with equal parts merlot and malbec. Look for mature fruits, spiciness, and a touch of herbal gaminess. A killer bottle to have on hand. CSPC +742820 About $58-60
Felicette 2014 Cats in Space Red Pays D’OC, France
Treana 2013 White Monterey, California
Lemelson 2013 Six Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
The cats on this label look like they take things very seriously indeed, so naturally, it required a closer look. A blend of grenache and syrah (15 percent), the nose is of blackcurrant jelly with raspberry and spice, while on the palate, it’s the right combination of spice and fruit that make it shine. I’d love this with grilled pork, or a handmade burger. CSPC +775927 $19
While Treana seems to be best known for red wine, it is the white that is really exciting to enjoy. A blend of marsanne and viognier, it positively bursts out of the glass with peaches and tropical fruits, and lemon, mineral, flowery tones in abundance. A sleek texture with a touch of silkiness and a slightly bitter finish. Would really rock with pork tenderloin, or flaky white fish. CSPC + 557660 $40
Wonderfully positioned between a softer style of pinot and those that have a bit of tannin and stronger flavours. Spicy, cherry pie, black fruits, and a little vegetable leaf, with the right amount of acids and tannin for anything from fishy to saucy. Can be kept in the cellar, but perfectly pleasurable to drink right now. CSPC +774941 About $30
Felicette 2014 Cats in Space White Pays D’OC, France
Fielding 2013 Riesling Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Trim Cabernet Sauvignon California
Grenache blanc is one of those grapes that we should drink a lot more of for sure. I’m loving the citrus and tropical fruits in this glass with a little of those lime and apricot characters. Crisp and easy to drink, it would be a treat to enjoy this on a sunny deck with a little seafood or salad on the table. CSPC +775928 $19
Love summer? Of course you do! Kick back and relax with this crisp and clean riesling. A little bit of sweetness features prominently on the palate along with green apple, lime, mineral, and a longish, tropical finish. Very enjoyable from start to finish. CSPC +146761 $22
Looking for a tasty cabernet that doesn’t break the bank? Bursting with cedar and cherries, there still is a lot of balance with tannins being full, but not aggressive, and some notable acids that should make this a star with anything grilled with flavourful barbecue sauces. CSPC +869545 $22
Nugan Estates 2012 Stomper’s Cabernet Sauvignon Riverina, Australia
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The Allure Of Provence And Its Wines by CAROLYNE KAUSER-ABBOTT
Ah, Provence… mention it to a friend and they’ll likely picture postcard-perfect cobalt skies, cicadas, and fields of lavender. brought to Massalia (Marseille) by the Ask that same person about wines from the region and there is a good chance you Greeks about 600 BC. These would have been the earliest intentionally may get a lightly-chilled-rosé response. cultivated grapes and certainly the first To be in the region of Provence in France rosés in France. The Romans arrived in Nostra Provincia (“our province”) in is to indulge all of your senses. The serrated limestone cliffs that plunge into approximately 125 BC and began the work of expanding their commodity turquoise Mediterranean waters leave trade routes. you breathless. This is a place where aromas of mimosa, jasmine, and Spanish broom are crafted into perfume. In the same region, foodies are apt to swoon The wines of Provence helplessly at bites of hot socca in Nice have an almost and bouillabaisse in Marseille. mythical attraction Provence stretches for 31,400 square km in southeastern France, from the Languedoc in the west to the Italian border, from Montélimar in the north to the Mediterranean shores. With sheltered harbours, plenty of defensive hilltops and abundant fertile land, it is no surprise that this vast landscape held much appeal to the ancient populations of Greeks, CelticLigurians and finally the Romans. The wines of Provence have an almost mythical attraction aided by the fact that the first non-indigenous vines were 50
Evidence of Roman grape cultivation has been uncovered throughout the region, including fragments of pottery, and tributes to Bacchus and Ariane on steles, sarcophaguses and statues. The Rhone River provided a convenient transportation link with the port of Marseille for shipping wine (and local goods) to other destinations. The Romans recognized that the craggy sides of Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles de Montmirail provided decent shelter and drainage for grapes, once the
backbreaking work of terracing was completed. During the Middle Ages, the Provençal wine trade declined into the hands of few, mostly monks, who had access to land and financial resources. It was Pope John XXII, the second of the seven popes to reside in Avignon, who ordered the construction of a summer residence in 1317, which became known as Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This sparked the emergence of grape growing in the mix of sandy, welldrained soil and land covered in red rocks or galets roulés, that blanket a more stable clay mix. The Pope’s 14th-century construction project was fortuitous as Châteauneuf-duPape, and many of the surrounding Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) vineyards are now globally renowned for excellent wine production. Fast forward to present day, there are nine AOPs in Provence and 12 in the Southern Rhone. In Provence, over 80 percent of the wine produced is
Chateau de Beaucastel
rosé, whereas in the Southern Rhone, spicy red blends make up the majority (79 percent in 2013). Major red grape varietals in the region include grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, carignan and cinsault while the white grapes include bourboulenc, clairette, white grenache, picpoul, picardan, roussanne and viognier. The wines of Provence and the Southern Rhone are typically created using assemblage techniques where varietals are fermented separately and only then blended under the scrutiny of master winemakers. This winemaking methodology allows the vintner more flexibility in years where the growth and
Palais des Papes, Avignon
easy drinking light rosés such as Chateau d’Esclans’ Whispering Angel (think Brad and Angelina) and Mirabeau en Provence’s Pure (2014 gold medal Concours Général Agricole). With the production from the AOPs of Provence and the Southern Rhone, the wine choices are somewhat endless. There is something for everyone, and every occasion from cooperative wines to well-established gastro rosés, from thought-provoking reds to surprisingly sophisticated whites.
sugar production of one grape type might be better (or worse) than another varietal. The pink wine consumer was almost crushed during the terrible era of blush wines. Now that same wine drinker is fuelling the wave of Provence’s newfound rosé popularity. This movement continues to grow internationally helped by clever star-studded marketing for With so many wines from the Rhone available here, we at Culinaire had to share a number of great producers that we think you might like to try:
Personally, I find that one of the best ways to chill out in Alberta is by deck or patio. We are lucky here in Alberta to have a decent selection of Rhone Valley wines, these red blends pair just as well with traditional Mediterranean recipes as your go-to summer barbecue favourites.
With her camera and laptop close at hand, Carolyne Kauser-Abbott has traded in her business suits for the world of freelance writing and social media consulting. Follow her blog GingerandNutmeg.com
–– Domaine de Pegau –– Château Pesquié –– Château de Saint Cosme
–– Halos de Jupiter
–– M. Chapoutier
–– Château de Beaucastel
–– Paul Jaboulet Aîné
©2016 Palm Bay International Boca Raton, Fl.
–– Gabriel Meffre
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Summer Cocktails -For The Whole Gang! by DAN CLAPSON and TOM FIRTH
Perhaps it’s our short summers or our borderline obsession with sitting on patios as long as snow isn’t actually falling, but summer is not just about ice-cold beers or delicate white wines to quench your thirst - it’s also the perfect time to explore the whole wide world of refreshment outside of a can of cola.
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1 5
p a c k
$1 6 99 please drink responsibly
also keep you free to relax rather than bartending at home (unless you like doing that). Punch appeared in England in the 17th century via sailors and employees of the British East India Company, and is historically made from just five ingredients: alcohol, water, sugar, lemon, and spices – though there is no reason to limit yourself. Traditionally served in a punchbowl, you are under no obligation to do that, though it can be a bit easier to mix a larger amount in one.
Pitcher, or batch, cocktails are perfect for entertaining at home or chilling out with friends wherever you are. They can be made in advance – saving valuable time while entertaining – but they
Ox & Angela’s Red Sangria (Calgary) Serves 4-6
Ox and Angela try to be as authentic to Spain as they can, given the ingredients that they can source locally in Alberta and import from Spain. That’s to be said about their food and is also true in their cocktails. 16 oz red wine, Ox uses sangiovese 16 oz cranberry juice 2 oz triple sec (orange flavoured liqueur) 2 oz apricot brandy 2 oz raspberry purée ½ oz lime juice ½ oz lemon juice
Add chopped fruit and ice. Stir and enjoy! This can be served from a punchbowl or pitcher. The chopped fruit to add is a choose-your-own-adventure based on taste or preference if you’re making it at home.
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Sangria hails from the Iberian Peninsula, where it is well suited to their hot summers. Made with a wine base, it also includes fruit juice, fruit, sugar, and often brandy. Most recipes for sangria could be viewed as a rough guide at best since, if you make it a few times, you’ll figure out your favourite version.
While out for a night on the town, made-ahead cocktails still aren’t permitted by Alberta Gaming and Liquor Commission regulations for a variety of reasons, but there is nothing from stopping a table from ordering a pitcher of sangria, or a tasty punch.
Batch cocktails are perfect for entertaining at home
We asked around and found five great restaurants with cocktail programs in Edmonton, Calgary, Banff, and Kelowna, who offered to share a pitcher-sized cocktail recipe sure to help entertain your guests this summer.
I knew
e h t t u o ab
. . . r e e b
e v a h but n e e s you ! ? e n i h t G
11819 St Albert Trail 780-455-4556 | sherbrookeliquor.com
TRADITION, SAVOIR-FAIRE, TERROIR Tradition and bordeaux know-how meets exceptional south okanagan terroir. an experience to be tasted.
Please enjoy responsibly
2009
www.osoyooslarose.com | @osoyooslarose | Find these near you at liquorconnect.com +985812 & +989194
Krafty Kitchen’s Pimm’s Royal Punch (Kelowna) Makes 10-15 servings
Pimms is generally consumed in the Pimm’s Cup with ginger ale and a fancy garnish.
Punch appeared in England in the 17th century
This summer punch takes it one step further, letting it macerate with fruit and then adding sparkling wine rather than soda.
¼ cup cane sugar 2 lemons, sliced into wheels 2 cups, diced kiwi 1 grapefruit, sliced into wheels 1 orange, sliced into wheels 1 spartan apple, halved and thinly sliced 16 oz Pimms No. 1 4 oz orange juice 2 oz lemon juice 1 bottle sparkling wine
Place sugar and fresh fruit into punch bowl and stir until sugar has dissolved. Add remaining ingredients and large ice cubes (bigger the better) to keep cold.
BLVD Bar x Kitchen’s Pineapple Coconut Sangria (Edmonton) Serves 2-4
1½ oz 1800 Coconut Tequila 1 oz Bacardi Rock 4 oz Coconut Cream 8 oz pineapple juice 3-4 lemon wheels 1 oz fresh lemon juice ½ cup pineapple chunks 4 oz Uber Riesling splash of soda water
1. Combine 1800 Coconut
Tequila, Bacardi Rock coconut rum, coconut cream, pineapple chunks, and fresh lemon juice with ice in a shaker tin. Shake.
2. Add everything from shaker into a pitcher.
3. Top with pineapple juice, soda, and Uber Riesling.
4. Garnish with lemon wheels.
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Avec Bistro’s Kill Devil Punch (Calgary) Serves 4
12 white sugar cubes 25 raspberries 3 oz club soda 6 oz 4 yr Flor De Cana Rum 3 oz lime juice 3 oz pineapple juice 3 oz champagne
Place raspberries, sugar cubes, and soda in a bowl and muddle mixture until mixed well. Add remaining ingredients, mix well and add ice. Top with champagne and serve!
Bear Street Tavern’s Top of the Morning Punch (Banff) Serves 2-4
5 oz reposado tequilla 3 oz chambord 5 oz soda 5 oz pineapple juice ½ a grapefruit “smashed” and dropped inside
Mix all ingredients together and give it a good stir.
REDISCOVERING THE TRUE ART OF FOOD
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8 MISSION AVE. ST. ALBERT, AB 780-569-1779
Western Canada wine division, but eventually it was merged with the spirits division, and then sold off. From there, an opportunity arose to consult for Alberta Culinary Tourism, and Baker initially came in as Interim Director. “It was an exciting blend of the beverage industry and culinary industry, and again there’s no stop and start of work into life,” she says. “What’s so interesting is to have a unique and fun, challenging job in an industry that’s about life and living, and food and culture, so I feel vey privileged to be here.”
Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
“I look at different vintages and there are some more special than others, but I liken it to our lives,” says Tannis Baker, Executive Director, Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance. “There’s great years and then there’s those other years… there’s something unique about every year, so it’s about celebrating each vintage we have as human beings.” Born in Winnipeg, Baker has spent most of her life in Calgary. As a child, she imagined she’d be a doctor or lawyer, but with a degree in Canadian studies from the University of Calgary, she wanted to work with new immigrants. “When I graduated there was a cutback in those programs, so I couldn’t even find a volunteer position,” Baker says. “I thought, what does a person with no skills and a degree in Canadian Studies, do in Canada?" 58
Interviewing for a summer job selling Mr. Christie’s cookies, Baker worried that she had no marketing background, until her interviewer said, “If you can sell yourself to me, you can sell our products,” which started her venture into sales. After school, she sold university textbooks to professors, but it didn’t resonate with her. At the time, she was enjoying making wine at home from kits, when she saw a job for a wine rep. “I had no idea such a thing existed,” she laughs. Her first wine job was with Vincor in onpremise sales. “It started me on a path that was personally interesting,” Baker says. “You work hard during the days, but what’s wonderful is that at night you’re reading wine books and going to wine tastings, and hosting your own wine tastings – and that line between where work stops and personal life begins becomes blurred.” For Baker, it was the start of a 20year career in beverage alcohol. A move to Winspear expanded her wine and marketing knowledge, and also included other prairie provinces, leading to a position with Brown Forman to manage their
So what bottle is Baker saving for a special occasion? A dusty magnum of 1998 Bolla Amarone is sitting on the table. “There are a number of things that are special about this bottle for me,” says Baker, “but it’s not just about Bolla, it’s about many wineries that you’d find in Italy or France. I love the long history; that they are able to withstand so many generations, and so many years.” “The great thing is that there’s no impulse to drink it, because I know that when I drink this bottle, I’m going to open it in the morning and decant it for the day. What has kept me from drinking this is that it has to be the right planned food, and it has to be the right people, and as I have to plan ahead, there’s no worries about me quickly consuming it.” And when will Baker open the bottle? “For an Italian wine, it has to be that celebration of family and friends,” Baker explains. “There’s a couple of events coming up that are landmarks; my sister is turning 50, my parents have an anniversary – it has to be the right one, and you pray that it’s not corked, right?”
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