ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 6 NO.2 :: JUNE 2017
A D N A A
Raising a Glass
TO CANADIAN WINE !
C
150
FOOD AND DRINK
THEN AND NOW
ALBERTA TWIN CITIES AND THEIR FOOD Alberta Road Tripping | Canada’s Brewing Culture | Our Culinary Roots
Rainbow Salad Jar SERVES: 4 – 2 cup (500 mL) jars
PREP TIME: 20-25 minutes including pulse cooking time
INGREDIENTS Salad 1 cup (250 mL) .......... dried split yellow peas, rinsed 1 – 14 oz (398 mL) ... can lentils, drained and rinsed 1 cup (250 mL) .......... sliced green or red seedless grapes 1 cup (250 mL) .......... grated carrot 1 cup (250 mL) .......... diced sweet yellow or red pepper
PULSES are the dry, edible seeds of legumes. This includes beans, lentils, chickpeas, and peas like split yellows – all grown in Alberta.
Topping 1-2................................. green onions, finely sliced ¼ cup (60 mL) ........... dried cranberries, optional ¼ cup (60 mL) ............ pecan pieces, toasted, optional Dressing ¼ cup (60 mL) ............ apple cider vinegar ¼ cup (60 mL) ............ canola oil, cold pressed if available 2 Tbsp (30 mL) .......... liquid honey 2 tsp (10 mL) .............. Dijon mustard 2 cloves ....................... garlic, finely minced
Nutrients per serving (1 jar) 431 Calories, 15 g Fat, 1 g Saturated Fat, 0 mg Cholesterol, 60 g Carbohydrate, 7 g Fibre, 23 g Sugar, 17 g Protein, 201 mg Sodium, 938 mg Potassium, 239 mcg Folate, 4 mg Iron.
Directions In a covered saucepan, simmer split peas in 2 cups (500 mL) water until moisture is absorbed and peas are tender, but not mushy, about 20-25 minutes. Rinse and cool. Yields 2 cups (500 mL) cooked. Meanwhile, whisk together dressing. Evenly divide salad ingredients and layer in each of the four jars. Top with green onion and sprinkle pecans and cranberries, if desired. Pour an equal amount of dressing over each jar, seal and refrigerate until ready to go.
Alberta Pulses – full of potential! For more great recipes visit pulse.ab.ca
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VOLUME 6 / ISSUE #2 JUNE 2017
Features 10
Alberta Eats: A Culinary History We’re looking past our rolling canola fields and grazing cattle to dig into the culinary history of our province and its founders by Anna Brooks
22 Alberta Culinary Road Trip Your where to eat guide when out and about in Southern Alberta by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth and Linda Garson 30
Canadian Cocktails Reworked Two creative takes on Canadian classic cocktails by Linda Garson
31
Going Back in Time Celebrating historic Alberta food spots by Anna Brooks
31
42 14
Alberta’s Twin Cities: A Snapshot of Food Culture We’re exploring the food cultures of five cities that are twinned with Edmonton, Calgary, and the province of Alberta by Dan Clapson and Robyn MacLean
39 The Beer is Better Up Here Celebrating Canada’s brewing culture by Kirk Bodnar
34 Canadian Wine: Raising a Glass to Canadian Terroir Canadian wine has come of age and is not only competing strongly against international examples – but winning! by Tom Firth with Linda Garson 42 Open That Bottle Celebrity chef and recording artist, Roger Mooking by Linda Garson
# 4 OUTDOOR DINING DESTINATION IN THE WORLD － American Express Essentials
Departments 6
Salutes and Shout Outs
8
Soup Kitchen
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Book Review
20 Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks! On the Cover: Many thanks to Chef Sean Cutler of the new Oxbow restaurant at Kensington Riverside Inn for the delicious al fresco spread on our cover this month – and to Ingrid Kuenzel for making our mouths water with her photograph!
CELEBRATION OF LAND & PLACE Join us on the patio Anthony Gismondi describes as “the best patio in the world.” A treasured find in the Okanagan Valley.
BENCH1775.COM 1775 Naramata Rd, Penticton, BC / 250.490.4965
Letter From The Editor Ontario a few decades ago. From looking at the most prevalent and popular food at the time, we concluded that Canada’s national dish was pizza. My how things have changed!
Last month we celebrated our fifth anniversary, and now this month we’re preparing for Canada’s 150th. Hey, Cool and The Gang - celebrate good times, come on! And there’s plenty to celebrate about Canadian food and beverage these days, although it hasn’t always been this way. I still remember the debate raging about Canada’s national dish and what it could be, when I spent a year living in London,
With a specific focus on Alberta, we’ve been examining the roots of our current culinary scene and its founders, as well as taking a look at some of our longstanding restaurants and the secret to their success. I know of eight new Calgary restaurants, pubs and bars opening in the next month or two, and while at the moment it seems like restaurants are closing at an alarming pace, we were thrilled to count at least 11 restaurants over 20 years old in Calgary alone, and another 18 eateries between 10 and 20 years. We’ve also been exploring the food culture in the cities twinned with Calgary,
Edmonton and the province itself, and now the weather’s looking more promising, we’ve been out and about, eating on your behalf to bring you ideas and suggestions of pit stops on your next Alberta road trip. I’m happy to tell you that we’ve found much to recommend! On the beverage front, we’ve widened our sphere to look at wines and beers across the country, and were spoiled with so many excellent examples to choose from. It’s wonderful to watch how far we’ve come in just the 13 years I have lived in Alberta! Happy sipping, Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief Correction: Inspired Cooking, the cookbook featured in our May issue with 20 Canadian chefs supporting cancer care, can be purchased at inspiredcooking.ca
Una ricca storia. (ooh-nah REEK-ah STOR-ee-ah) ‘A rich history.’ Discover the flavours of Europe and beyond at our shops, where Canada’s seasoned history is written in food. Diversity is beautiful.
It’s also pretty tasty. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End CALGARY Willow Park
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italiancentre.ca/canada-s-150th-birthday
ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Calgary Sales Director: Greg Mitchell 587-224-3270 greg@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Sales Director: Lisa Wolansky 587-338-8780 lisa@culinairemagazine.ca Creative Director: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor: Anna Brooks web@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca
Our Contributors < Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
Elizabeth Chorney-Booth has been writing about music, food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life. In addition to writing for Culinaire and other publications, Elizabeth is a published cookbook author and part of the new team behind the Best of Bridge franchise. She’s also the co-editor of RollingSpoon.com and Wapawekka.com. Elizabeth lives in Calgary with her husband, two kids, and her ever-growing collection of vintage cookbooks.
Contributors: Kirk Bodnar Anna Brooks Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Dan Clapson Mallory Frayn Dong Kim Robyn MacLean Karen Miller
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Red Cup Distillery is a craft distillery in Vegreville using local grain, in house green malt and prairie moonshine recipes in a
Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance
Upholding The Tradition
< Tom Firth
Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge whose work in the wine and beverage industry stretches back to the mid ‘90s. Tom is the Contributing Drinks Editor for Culinaire Magazine and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. He has no qualms about tasting first thing in the morning, and his poor desk is completely covered in paper and bottles. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine.
locally made 250 and 1,000-gallon Edmonton-made pot stills. Available in liquor stores across Alberta in April.
< Mallory Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Frayn
Mallory is a food writer and PhD student living and learning in Montreal. She loves to combine her two passions, food and psychology, to help people develop healthier relationships with food. Her website, becauseilikechocolate.com, aims to do just that (and obviously chocolate is always included). When she isn’t busy with research or writing, Mallory is most likely jogging, or eating (or both!) her way around Montreal. Follow her @cuzilikechoclat
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www.redcupdistillery.ca @redcupdistillery RedCupDistillery2015 Vegreville, Alberta, Canada
Salutes... Congratulations to Foothills winery, Spirit Hills, whose award winning honey wines are on their way to Japan to be sold in top department stores and served in 5-star hotels and restaurants. To celebrate the success, Premier Notley toasted with Spirit Hills YeeHaa! sangria, at an official event in Japan.
Premier Notley
Westin Calgary Executive Chef Michael Batke and Calgary dietitian Casey Berglund are featured in a new cookbook, ‘Out of the Box: Healthy Family Pasta Meals on a Budget.’ Catelli Foods is donating pasta to food banks for each free download from catelli.ca, with the goal of donating one million servings.
and Shout Outs... Ox Bar de Tapas
Ox & Angela, on 17th Avenue SW, Calgary, has now re-opened as the bright and airy, Spanish-inspired Ox Bar de Tapas after a beautiful refurbishment. Executive Chef Kai Salimäki (ex The Block) is heading up the kitchen and has introduced some new dishes to the casual sharing menu while keeping our faves like Patatas Bravas, and the popular weekend brunch menu. Ox Bar is proud of its extensive Gin & Tonic program with house-made tonics, and offers the largest selection of sherry in the city. Salud!
Urban Butcher
Urban Butcher is Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts (CRMR) latest addition, now open where Second to None Meat was on 4th Street SW and Willow Park Village, Calgary. We were spoiled for choice by Master Butcher, 6
Bob Choquette and his team’s range of naturally raised meats, including AAA Alberta beef, pasture raised pork, free range, free run and organic poultry products, as well as deli products from their smokehouse. And we’re delighted to see CRMR Kitchen’s new signature sausages, frozen ready-made meals, condiments, salsas, sauces, and pickled items on the shelves too!
Hudson
The sixth floor of Calgary’s Hudson’s Bay on 8 Avenue SW, is now home to Oliver & Bonacini’s new Hudson – a state-ofthe-art complex ideal for events from high-profile galas and romantic weddings, to intimate meetings and corporate conferences. Two vast spaces, Hudson Loft and the grand Hudson Flat, provide over 18,000 sq. ft. to seat 750 as well as 750 for receptions; all menus are created by Guild Chef Ryan O’Flynn, and prepared in the large Hudson kitchens. We’re soon to see several new openings on 1st Street SW in Calgary, the first of which is PARM, a new Italian bistro specializing in Neapolitan thin crust pizzas baked in an Okanagan apple wood-
PARM
fueled forno. Pasta dishes and appies are Chef Barry Flett’s family recipes with creative input from Chef Keith Luce. There’s an Italian grab and go market too, and you can order and pay online at parmyyc.ca and pick up at your specified time!
Joey Chinook
Joey Chinook has reopened after major renos - just in time to celebrate the group’s 25th anniversary. You won’t recognize this gorgeous open plan environment; more natural light, textural brick and wood walls, handmade chandeliers and ‘beet’ lights create a warm, upscale industrial feel. There’s a new 100-seat rooftop patio and bar, later opening hours, and new dishes to try on the globally themed menu too.
O u r 2 nd A nnual Ed mo n ton Treas u re H unt! S atu rday, Septe m ber 9 t h, 9:00 a m - 5 : 00 pm Our first Edmonton Culinaire Treasure Hunt and three Calgary Hunts have all sold out, and been so popular and successful, with everyone has going home a multiple winner - we’re thrilled to open our 2nd Edmonton Treasure Hunt for registrations!
fam·i· ly style:
You’ll answer trivia questions about the 30 participating restaurants, markets and stores, to reveal where to dash off to receive your treat, get your passport stamped, and maybe come away with a little culinary gift too!
where dishes of
And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations, wear the best costumes, have the funniest team names, the most engaging photos... and lots more!
serve themselves
We’re planning a very fun and rewarding day in Edmonton, so grab a partner and sign up as a team of two, or sign up solo. Visit culinairemagazine.ca to register now!
/CulinaireMagazine @culinairemag culinairemag culinairemagazine.ca
It’s going to be another day to remember!
[fam-uh-lee, fam-lee]
(adj.) of or being a sit-down meal food are placed on the table from which diners
1.
a. We relish the enthusiasm and zeal with which traditional Italian dining is to be enjoyed. b. Our open kitchen showcases our chefs preparing fresh and local ingredients.
2. a. Join us for dinner, enjoy a relaxing evening, our unique family
style service and the traditional Italian Piatti (courses). Your table comes alive when we present a variety of large offerings on platters or bowls within easy reach of all.
3. a. Our favourite nights are the ones where the room is alive with
sounds of clattering cutlery on plates, clinking of glassware, the bustling kitchen, all intermingled with animated discussion.
b. Available at vivo downtown. vivo downtown
10505 106 Street | 587-525-7500 downtown@vivoristorante.ca vivo ristorante westend
18352 Lessard Road | 780-756-7710 westend@vivoristorante.ca
www.vivoristorante.ca
Soup Kitchen story and photography by DAN CLAPSON
Consider this soup a remixed version of the French-Canadian classic pea soup. Lemon, oregano, mint and a few splashes of wine really brighten up these slow-cooked split peas, helping to get their summer bods back, if you will! Split Pea and Oregano Pork Chop Soup Serves 5-6 Total prep and cook time 2 hours 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil 3 pork loin chops, 1 cm cubed and dusted with all-purpose flour ¼ cup (60 mL) dry white wine 1 Tbs unsalted butter 1 yellow onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups dried green split peas 2 cups finely chopped green kale 8 cups (2 L) vegetable broth 1 cup (240 mL) dry white wine 1 tsp dried oregano ¼ tsp dried mint 1 bay leaf 1 lemon, zested and juiced To taste salt and pepper
1. Heat canola oil in a large pot on
medium-high heat. Once hot, add pork and brown on all sides, about 2-3 minutes. Transfer to a plate until ready to return to the soup.
2. Next, pour wine into pot to
deglaze. Reduce to medium heat, add butter, onions, and garlic, and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. If onions start to brown excessively, add an extra splash of wine or water to the pot. 8
3. Return browned meat to pot along
5. If a thicker consistency is desired,
4. After 1½ hours uncover, discard bay
Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside
with all remaining ingredients except for the lemon. Once mixture comes to a simmer, reduce to low heat, cover and let slow cook on the stove for 1½ hours, stirring every so often. leaf, add lemon and seasoning, and let cook for another 15 minutes.
ladle out some of the split peas and broth, purée in blender and return to pot.
Book Review by KAREN MILLER
All The Sweet Things Baked Goods and Stories from the Kitchen of Sweetsugarbean
Renee Kohlman - Touchwood Editions 2017 $39.95 Just when you think it’s safe to go outside in shorts, along comes this book. Kohlman’s charming and handsome book is not just about desserts, but the joys of making sweet things! Her story and food memories are part of the charm (gotta love a girl who keeps soured cream in her fridge for baking, especially biscuits - something I learned from my mother).
brand new menus lobby lounge the other side sports bar greens restaurant hotelblackfoot.com
She started baking as a young girl and includes stories of doing the same with various family members. Kohlman launched her blog in 2011, and her recipes are an interesting medley from the mixed bag of her culinary experiences including a fishing camp, tea house, country club restaurant and a gluten-free restaurant stint. Baking gave her comfort, and you can see how comfortable she is with it. Kohlman has a straightforward approach to baking — scholarly, intriguing and even a little adventurous at times. There are so many great parts to this cookbook, including a whole chapter on doughnuts extoling their healing powers! You will want to have Aunt Helen’s Big Batch Buttermilk Bran Muffins (p.94) in your repertoire, and the “deconstructed” baklava with homemade mascarpone (p.202) is exquisitely light with just the right spice and creaminess. There are heirloom recipes such as Rosemary Oatmeal Shortbread (p.58) that would be a welcome variety to your Christmas baking too. She has even included turmeric, the wonder spice of the moment, in blueberry muffins. Kohlman is also a natural with the camera, and her photographic eye makes everything plated even more appealing. This cookbook will make you want to bake and will make it less intimidating. Sweet! Karen Miller is a former lawyer who got on the “know where your food comes from” bandwagon earlier than most and now focuses on foraging her daily food from local growers.
hotelblackfoot.com
Alberta Eats:
Glenbow Archives na-922-1
A Culinary History by ANNA BROOKS
Think of food, and then think of Alberta. What comes to mind? You can be from a rocky mountain town, bustling city centre, or a ranch, but the answer is usually the same: beef, beef and more beef. Or maybe throw some grains in there, too. While Alberta is the second largest agricultural producer in Canada and known worldwide for its top-quality beef, our province has deep culinary roots spanning further than just meat and wheat. In celebration of Canada 150, we looked past our rolling canola fields and grazing cattle to dig into the culinary history of Alberta. Not only did these foods keep the province’s earliest inhabitants alive, they’ve paved the way for contemporary culinary culture today. Glenbow Archives na-4069-5
Indigenous Roots There’s no disputing who was here first. Indigenous tribes in Canada date back 10,000 years, which means their food does too. While restaurants dedicated to indigenous cuisine may be few and far between, survival tactics (today’s food trends) like smoking and curing meats, all started with Alberta’s first people. Before European and U.S. settlers stumbled across Alberta in the 1600s, First Nations (formerly known as The Plains People) grew potatoes, corn and squash. But their main source of sustenance was bison. Bison yielded a huge amount of meat, which was typically roasted on a spit, and then preserved through salting and drying. Rich, nutritious soups were also made by boiling meat in a skin bag with hot stones. Developed by indigenous tribes and a staple in the diets of early fur traders, was pemmican. A pure protein surge, dried meat is pounded into a powder, and then mixed with melted buffalo fat and berries.
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Many will be familiar with bannock, a simple flatbread made from wheat flour. When wheat was unavailable, bannock could be made with anything from cattail pollen to moss. While these survival foods aren’t as lavish as the combinations of taste we see today, this truly was the original culinary scene in Alberta.
French Founders One of the earliest cuisines in Canada, it’s not surprising we have a fever for French-inspired dishes like poutine, Montreal-style bagels and macarons. To the unilingual eye, Alberta may seem predominantly Anglophone. But French was the first European language spoken in Alberta, and we’re still home to one of the largest Francophone populations in Canada. Peddlers from Montreal landed in Alberta in the 1780s during the early fur trading days. They set about establishing colonies like Leduc, Beaumont and
Lacombe (to name a few), and a new mixed-race population — the Metis — emerged when French settlers married the Cree women living off the land. In the 1900s, fancy food was often equated with French cuisine. It may have been pricey, but gorging on tourtière (a meat pie filled with diced beef, veal or pork), escargot, and duck confit, in upscale French restaurants was well worth it. And yes, where and how you consume French cuisine has relaxed over the years — you can grab a messy poutine just about anywhere, and even casual pubs have escargot on the menu. But seeing thousands of poutine dishes sold during Poutine Week in Calgary and the flocks of people celebrating French culture and cuisine at annual events like Heritage Park’s Festival Des Sucres, it’s clear the French are still very near and dear to the hearts (and stomachs) of Albertans.
Chop Suey on the Prairies Where there’s a small town, there’s likely Chinese food; the first restaurants ever established in Alberta were Chinese “cafes.”
Adapting traditional Cantonese flavours for the Alberta palate, dishes like chow mein, sweet and sour pork, and fried rice, became hugely popular. We’re grateful now for the multitude of Chinese restaurants and takeout places across the province, but Chinese immigrants had a less than welcoming start in western Canada. Arriving in Alberta as the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) advanced across the country in the 1800s, many Chinese workers perished from disease and intolerable working conditions. Even after the railway was completed,
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Chinese immigrants continued to be persecuted; until 1923, they were the only ethnic group forced to pay a tax to enter the country. Despite these hardships, immigrants earned money by working in laundries or running Chinese eateries. This led to a new cuisine in Alberta: Western Chinese food. Adapting traditional Cantonese flavours for the Alberta palate, dishes like chow mein, sweet and sour pork, and fried rice, became hugely popular. Calgary has its own claim to fame when chef George Wong from the Silver Inn created the dish to end all dishes: ginger beef. There’s no denying these crispy pieces of fried beef slathered in a tangy, ginger sauce is a favourite everywhere. The Royal Alberta Museum even held a special exhibit a few years back called Chop Suey on the Prairies, which celebrated iconic Chinese restaurants and dishes in Alberta.
Perogies and Pysankas
Vegreville
Perogies, cabbage rolls, borscht… these hearty dishes would be nearly non-existent if it wasn’t for the arrival of Ukrainian settlers back in the 1890s. Founding land northeast of Edmonton, many of the first Ukrainian immigrants were agriculturists. With Alberta soil prime for planting and growing, the Ukrainian population flourished as they found their niche in farming. In just a few years, Ukrainians had settled the largest colony of its kind in central Alberta, and by 2006, Albertans of Ukrainian descent made up more than 10 percent of the province’s population. It wasn’t long before sour soups, potato dumplings, and fermented cabbage became popular with the prairie palate. While you can get these dishes almost anywhere in Alberta, you might as well try them in a few special spots dedicated to Ukrainian culture and cuisine. Vegreville is home to the world’s second largest pysanka (a Ukrainian-style Easter Glendon
egg), and the town’s annual Ukrainian Pysanka Festival has visitors feasting on Mundare sausage (made from lean, smoked ham), “kubbie” burgers (hamburgers made with Mundare meat), nalysnyky (cottage cheese crepes), and poppy seed rolls.
Vegreville is home to the world’s second largest pysanka
Courtesy Paul Swabey
Drive an hour north and you’ll hit Glendon, which boasts the world’s largest perogy. The small Alberta town also takes serious pride in their Glendon Pyrogy Festival — the annual event even commences with a special anthem dedicated to perogies!
Bún, Bánh and Vietnam Arguably one of the most popular cuisines in today’s culinary climate, Vietnamese food wasn’t on the Alberta map until the 1970s. Like many refugees coming to Canada nowadays, it was war that had Vietnamese immigrants fleeing their home country. Oriental Phoenix — one of the first Vietnamese restaurants in Calgary — was started by the Du-Huynh 12
family, who lived in refugee camps before arriving to Canada by boat. It was then that Albertans had a taste of food never seen before: rice vermicelli with fish sauce, rice noodle soup (pho), and salad rolls stuffed with shrimp. Unlike Chinese food, which was westernized to appeal to the people of the prairies, just about everyone seems to like Vietnamese food just how it is. Around 32,500 Vietnamese people live in Alberta (with more than half that number living in Calgary), and this newish segment of the population has had a huge influence on Alberta’s contemporary food scene. Just look at Raw Bar at Hotel Arts, Foreign Concept, Pure Contemporary Vietnamese Kitchen + Bar, and the smattering of quirky, hole-in-the-wall joints serving up traditional recipes passed down from generations of Vietnamese families. Whether it’s quick-order bánh mì or fancy fusion dishes, it’s no surprise that Alberta is reputed to have some of the best Vietnamese food in North America. Anna Brooks is Culinaire’s managing editor. A Mount Royal journalism graduate, stories have pulled her overseas to pursue international work in India, Africa and Thailand. Follow her on Twitter @Anna_Brooksie
When you take your ingredients very seriously.
SIPPIN’ ALBERTA
CRAFT BEVERAGE TRAIL
DOWNLOAD YOUR FREE COPY AT www.AlbertaCulinary.com/CulinaryTrails @AlbertaCulinary
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Alberta’s Twin Cities: A Snapshot Of Food Culture by DAN CLAPSON and ROBYN MACLEAN
Bergen Op Zoom, Holland — While most towns, cities, provinces, and states have Edmonton a “twin,” many people have Bergen Op Zoom is a small city located never heard of the concept in The Netherlands. They twinned with Edmonton because of a special of twin cities. bond previously established between Twinning cities was first introduced after the Second World War in an effort to mend diplomatic relationships, and offer goodwill and reconciliation by uniting cities that suffered the ravages of war. These days, the objective is to promote commercial and cultural ties between regions through trade, tourism, and education. Of course, mutual economic gain is important to the success of such programs, and the subject of food is always a large part of any economy, so it should come as no surprise that we are most interested in exploring the food culture in some of our province’s twin cities!
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the two regions during WWII when Canadian troops from a Southern Alberta regiment played a leading role in liberating the war-ravaged town.
The Dutch diet ranks as one of the world’s healthiest; we certainly knew there was more to The Netherlands than cheese and raw herring with onions! Pannenkoeken pancakes are a true national treasure, frequently topped with sweet or savoury toppings like bacon, cheese, apples, stroop (a Dutch syrup), raisins, chocolate, appelstroop (apple sauce), icing sugar and nuts. Unlike other countries where pancakes are considered a breakfast item, the Dutch typically eat them for lunch or dinner. Indonesian cuisine in the Netherlands is practically synonymous with Dutch food. During the peak of the spice trade in the 16th century, the Dutch sailed to Indonesia in search of nutmeg, cloves and pepper, and Indonesia eventually became a colony of The Netherlands. The Dutch embraced and fell in love with the southeast Asian cuisine, and to this day the country remains heavily influenced with dishes such as bami gorengon, a stir-fried egg noodle dish with garlic, onion, vegetables, meat, egg and chili, and gado-gado, a popular vegetable dish served with peanut sauce,
cooked vegetables, potatoes, raw cucumber, lettuce, and fried tofu, all topped with a hardboiled egg. For Dutch food in Alberta try: Dutch Delicious Bakery 13232 118 Avenue NW, Edmonton De Dutch Pannekeok House 10030 Jasper Avenue, Edmonton Pfanntastic Pannenkoek Haus 2439 54th Avenue SW, Calgary Indonesian Kitchen 3917 17th Avenue SE, Calgary
Jaipur, India — Calgary Calgary twinned with Jaipur in 1973 after seeing a potential partnership due to common interests in industries like engineering and manufacturing. The ancient city is located in Rajasthan, India’s largest state and home to the inhospitable Thar Desert. Rajasthani food rules the roost, and cooking techniques were highly influenced by the limited availability of ingredients. Water and fresh vegetables were a scarcity in the arid climate. As such, food was made to last for several days and consumed without heat when required.
The food is rich, bold and ultra-spicy, with an abundance of curds, ghee and dried fruit. And you can’t mention Rajasthani food without referencing the popular dal baati dish. Dal is simply a “soup” of mixed lentils with spices, served with baati, a hard bread roll made of wheat flour that’s baked in a charcoal oven and then doused with ghee. It’s often served with rice, mint chutney, raw mango chutney, and green salad with lots of onion, and fresh buttermilk. When it comes to street food, mirchi bada bumps elbows with the likes of the ever-so-popular samosa. You’ll find roadside mirchi bada vendors throughout the city deep-frying bright green chilies that have been coated in besan, a pulse flour made from ground chickpeas. Jaipur is a thriving international city, so you’ll also find an extensive assortment of regional and international cuisines, as
FIELD TO FORK CULINARY SERIES
This spring, we’re taking the dining out of the dining room, and serving you a taste of history.
T H U R S D AY, J U N E 2 9
Selkirk Lobster Boil on the Founders’ Lounge Patio T H U R S D AY, J U LY 2 7
Prince House 50th Anniversary Garden Party VISIT HERITAGEPARK.CA FOR MORE DETAILS RESERVATIONS 403.268.8607 Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner Open Mondays for lunch HeritageParkYYC
well as a lively street food scene as old as the city itself. You can find Rajasthani food in Alberta at: Khazana Restaurant 10177 107 Street, Edmonton Guru Fine Indian Cuisine 17021 100 Avenue NW, Edmonton Jaipur Restaurant 3829 Bow Trail SW, Calgary
Hokkaido, Japan — Alberta Hokkaido is the northernmost island of Japan and home to Sapporo, the country’s fourth largest city. The region became Alberta’s sister province in 1980, sharing many similarities including a resource-based economy, topography and climate. The local cuisine features an abundance of produce and dairy products sourced from the region’s extensive farmlands, and remains one of the island’s biggest attractions. There’s also a rich variety of fresh seafood and sea vegetation that thrive in the cold waters off the island. They’re especially renowned for the quality of sea urchin, crab, squid, salmon roe, and scallops found in the area.
Although it’s rural Hokkaido that brings in the impressive bounty of ingredients, Sapporo is at the centre of the food action, and no street in Sapporo is complete without a ramen shop. Most impressive are the streets wholly dedicated to serving the miso, soy or salt-flavoured noodle bowls, like the famous Ramen Yokocho or Ramen Alley.
Ishikari nabe is a hearty, traditional dish to help locals power through the frigid winter months Genghis khan barbecue reigns as one of the region’s most popular dishes. Lamb or mutton is either grilled premarinated in a special sauce, or grilled plain and then dipped into the sauce and served with vegetables on a domed iron plate. Since lamb and mutton are rarely consumed throughout the rest of Japan, this dish is unique to Hokkaido. Ishikari nabe (hot pot) is a hearty, traditional dish to help locals power through the frigid winter months. It uses fresh salmon from head to fin and is stewed in a miso kelp stock with potatoes, cabbage, tofu and konnyaku (also known as devil’s tongue). Here’s a great recipe for a traditional Hokkaido hotpot you can make at home:
Ishikari Nabe Serves 2
1 piece kombu (kelp) 2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced 1 medium carrot, peeled and diced 1 medium daikon, peeled and diced 1/3 medium cabbage, roughly chopped 1 package shimeji mushrooms, washed and stems trimmed 3 salmon fillets, diced ½ cup (120 mL) miso and more to add at the end 2½ Tbs (37 mL) sake 2½ Tbs (37 mL) mirin Soy sauce to taste
1. In a pot, soak kombu in 4 cups (1 L)
of water for 30 minutes, then turn on heat and add carrots and potatoes. Remove kombu just before it comes to a boil then let boil for 3 minutes.
2. Add daikon, cabbage, mushrooms and salmon, and bring to a boil again.
3. Mix together miso, sake, and mirin, and add to the pot. Check flavour, and adjust with more miso or soy sauce if required.
4. Turn off the heat and add a small
amount of additional miso at the end. Serve immediately. 16
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Nashville, Tennessee — Edmonton Surprisingly, this booming Southern city shares similarities with our Alberta cities in that it has experienced a notable food scene boom in the past five years or so. Trying to shake the barbecue and biscuits image (much like we shake our Alberta beef and potatoes), many contemporary eateries now strive to highlight regional Southern cuisine. Pimento beignets with onion ash at The Farm House or Husk’s sour corn cakes with charcoal butter are good places to start when it comes to eating out in Nashville. Hot chicken, fried chicken doused in a cayenne-based spice rub, is the city’s most famous dish — try it with buttery biscuits and eggs at local brunch hot spot, Biscuit Love, or on top of creamy white-sauced pizza at New York-style pizza spot, Two Boots. Though there are many variations on the spicy theme, Nashville veterans swear by Prince’s (a no-frills institution) or Hattie B’s (a hipster-chic hot chicken chain now with multiple locations) for their more authentic preparations. Admittedly touristy, the Broadway strip in the heart of the city's downtown is full-blown honky tonk fun times complete with cover bands that perform in every bar on the street from daytime to the early hours of the morning. If you go to Nashville and don’t spend at least one night at Robert’s Western World sipping
on a Pabst Blue Ribbon in between bites of their appropriately greasy, fried bologna sandwich slathered in mustard, then you didn’t do Nashville right. You’ll find great Southern food at: Have Mercy 8232 Gateway Boulevard, Edmonton Louisiana Purchase 10320 111 Street NW, Edmonton Cluck ‘N’ Cleaver 1511 14 Street SW, Calgary
Quebec City — Calgary Originally settled in 1535 and officially founded in 1608, Quebec City’s cobblestone roads, stunning historic buildings and intact stone walls running the perimeter of downtown certainly make its sister city, Calgary, feel like a newborn in contrast.
open arms. Bundle up for a stroll through the grand ice castle near the Parliament Building and then head through downtown streets while you chew on freshly poured maple taffy and fork into poutine avec saucisse.
Come summer, Quebec gets a little more Calgarian. Home to BBQ-Fest, this Quebec meat feast serves thousands with plenty of offerings from local food trucks, restaurants, as well as chef cook-offs and more. The city’s ten day music festival, The Quebecois have always been intensely Festival d’ete de Quebec, draws major proud of their roots, and this pride certainly acts, and is followed by Festiviere de Quebec, which is a prime opportunity to filters into restaurants here. Expect ingredients like maple syrup, foie gras, and get a taste of Quebec’s ever-evolving craft beer and cider scene. duck to grace most menus here. Owners of funky contemporary restaurant, La Buche, work together to offer a unique The city’s main market, Le Marche du take on Quebecois cuisine with their Vieux-Port, is a must for anyone looking mini tourtiere-inspired pie bites, maple to bring home a taste of the province. barbecue rabbit “wings” and more. There are purveyors of local cheese, like le 1608, plenty of unique charcuterie Quebec’s famous winter festival, Carnaval up for tasting (seal salami, anyone?) and de Quebec, runs from late January to canned confit duck. mid-February and is the time of year There’s also a group of Quebec residents where locals truly welcome tourists with who have an annual culture swap with representatives from the Calgary Stampede. While a group of Calgarians head over in the winter to throw a big pancake breakfast during Carnaval, Quebec makes an appearance during our Stampede to give us a little taste of their polar opposite (temperature-wise) festival! Find Quebecois food at: A Taste of Quebec Calgary Farmers’ Market
Hattie B’s Courtesy Joseph Woodley
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Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer, with a passion for food and beverages. Calgarian at heart, she can be found exploring Houston, Texas, the playground she currently calls home.
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Chefs' Tips Tricks!
Dining Al Fresco by MALLORY FRAYN photography by INGRID KUENZEL and DONG KIM
Ever wanted to take your al fresco dining a notch above the standard grilling fare?
work wonderfully matched with Chef Herrera’s watermelon and prawn salad. See culinairemagazine.ca for the recipe.
Burgers and steaks are great and all, but sometimes a bit more refinement is called for when entertaining guests or simply enjoying a gorgeous summer evening. Whether you’re putting together a composed salad or trying your hand at tartare, two Alberta chefs weigh in with tips on where to get started.
Serves 4
Chef Rogelio Herrera Alloy, Calgary
Just because something is “light” doesn’t mean it can’t pack a lot of flavour. For Chef Rogelio Herrera at Alloy in Calgary, his go-to trick for al fresco dining is to use lots of spice. “When you eat spicy food your body sweats and it cools you down,” he explains. “It’s the perfect strategy for balancing taste and practicality.”
Watermelon & Prawn Salad
Chef Rogelio Herrera
He also suggests opting for raw dishes like tartares, or lightly cooked options like tataki. Going directly to the source and establishing a relationship with your fishmonger is the best way to source the freshest, tastiest ingredients. Chef Herrera also adds that you should keep your fish on ice and eat it pronto!
1 large watermelon ½ cup (120 mL) Balkan yogurt ¼ cup fresh mint, chopped 1 Tbs (15 mL) lime juice 1 Tbs (15 mL) honey 450 g 21/25 prawns, peeled and deveined 1 Tbs (15 mL) rocoto or harrisa paste 1 cup mixed greens 1 Tbs Korean chili peppers 3 baby bell peppers, thinly sliced Salt and olive oil
“You cool your beer on ice, and you have to cool fresh food on ice too,” he advises.
1. Marinate the prawns with the
Finally, you can’t neglect a drink pairing to accompany whatever you’re making. Caipirinha or caipiroska
2. In a mixing bowl combine the
rocoto pepper and reserve until needed, this can be made ahead of time. yogurt, lime, honey, and fresh mint. Season with salt, mix well, and reserve in the fridge until needed.
3. Cut the watermelon into
2.5 cm squares. Toss with the chili peppers and salt, and reserve until needed.
4. In a frying pan at medium heat
sauté the prawns with a bit of olive oil. Cook them until opaque, then remove from the heat and let them rest for a few minutes before plating them.
5. To plate the salads, place some of
the yogurt dressing on the bottom of the plate and put some watermelon and prawns on top. Garnish with some oiled and seasoned mixed greens, fresh mint, and sliced baby bell peppers. 20
Chef Paul Shufelt
Workshop Eatery, Edmonton Paul Shufelt, chef and proprietor of Workshop Eatery in Edmonton, is all about keeping things simple when it comes to dining al fresco. “You don’t want to spend hours in the kitchen if the weather is nice out,” he laughs. That couldn’t be more true in Alberta, where the threat of snow is viable virtually every month of the year! Shufelt also points out that summer means working with the best ingredients at peak season, so you don’t need to do a lot to them. His go-to for enjoying the warmer weather is salad. Not necessarily lettuce and tomatoes, but salads that capture the freshness of summer’s bounty. He also suggests making pestos, vinaigrettes, and marinades well in advance. Not only do they taste better if prepared a day or two ahead of time, it also leaves you more time to spend with your houseguests enjoying the warmth and sunshine. Chef Paul Shufelt
Tuna Niçoise Salad Serves 3-4 people
450 g albacore tuna 450 g baby potatoes, boiled until fork tender 1 cup fresh green beans, cleaned and blanched 4 tomatoes, or 1 package baby tomatoes 4 eggs, hard-boiled for 12 minutes ½ cup olives 4 cups spring mix (optional)
For the dressing:
2. Season the tuna on all sides with
salt and pepper. Place a heavy bottom pan on high heat. When very hot, add 1 Tbs (15 mL) cooking oil and sear the tuna on all sides, cooking quickly so as to sear the outside, but not overcook the centre. Your desired doneness is blue rare, to rare. Remove from heat, and let cool slightly before slicing.
3. Halve the baby potatoes, slice
the tomatoes into wedges, and slice the eggs.
4. Place the vegetables and lettuce in
25 g miso paste 20 g wasabi powder ½ bunch cilantro ½ cup (120 mL) mirin ½ cup (120 mL) rice vinegar 1 cup (240 mL) canola oil 1 lime, juice only ¼ cup (60 mL) honey
a bowl and drizzle with dressing. Season and stir to combine.
1. Place all dressing ingredients in a
Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat
blender or use a hand mixer and mix until fairly smooth. Set aside.
5. Place decoratively on the serving
plates and garnish with the olives and eggs. Slice the fish thinly and gently place over the top of the salads. Serve immediately.
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Culinary Road Trips:
Sublime Food and Wine
Southern Alberta
by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH and LINDA GARSON
Now that summer is upon us, our minds turn to fresh air, sunshine and perhaps a road trip or two - especially to towns within easy reach if you have kids or visitors. Alberta has excellent pit stops – or make them your destination! Drumheller
Better known for dinosaur bones than dining options, while Dinosaur Valley is largely populated with chain restaurants and fast food stops, there Bernie and the Boys Bistro
are a few hidden gems lurking in the badlands for the discerning food lover. Bernie and the Boys Bistro (305 4 Street W) is one of Drum’s most popular spots — it’s a simple burgers ‘n’ shakes joint, which fits the bill for anyone looking for a quick road trip meal. Bernie’s has become known for its $32 Mammoth Burger (with a 25 oz patty), but those with more reasonable appetites can explore the menu full of wraps, subs, pizza, and salads. For some old-school Alberta charm on your way to the Royal Tyrrell Museum, stop at Whifs Flapjack House (801 N Dinosaur Trail). It’s kitschy and a little run-down, but that’s part of the fun when it comes to a roadside pancake house. Stick to the breakfast if you can — it’s affordable and suitably tasty. For something slightly more refined, Sublime Food and Wine (109 Centre Street) owned and operated by Chef Dennis Standage and his wife Stasha, is Drumheller’s best fine dining fare. A selection of entrees like lamb sirloin with a cucumber and mint salsa, citrusstuffed trout, and the house specialty
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“sublime” chicken (with a creamy asiago and basil sauce) are all served in a quaint family-run atmosphere. And a trip out to Drumheller isn’t complete if you don’t venture off the beaten path to visit the Last Chance Saloon (555 Jewell Street) in nearby Wayne, Alberta. Not only is the Last Chance a perfect picture of Western Canadiana (it’s in an old hotel filled with antiques and artifacts) and also doubles as a unique music venue, but the kitchen serves up a mean burger.
Medicine Hat
There’s a lot to do in Medicine Hat — the Eastern Alberta city is home to many summer festivals (the Medicine Hat Jazz Festival is in late June) and every Albertan should make a point of visiting the historic Medalta Potteries factory (pick yourself up a bean pot while you’re there!). Luckily, the town also has some great places to grab a bite while you’re on the road. Any visitor’s first order of business should be to get a cup of coffee and, blissfully, downtown Medicine Hat is home to a disproportionate number
Redwood Steakhouse
of independent coffee shops, all of which are excellent. The Station (644 2 Street SE) has a hip, big city feel and serves lunch as well as fresh baked goods alongside seriously caffeinated creations, like the Root Beer Godfather — an iced combination of espresso and artisanal root beer. For something on the unexpected side, Medicine Hat is home to one of Alberta’s top-rated Thai restaurants, Thai Orchid Room (36 Strachan Court SE). Locals and visitors alike rave about the authenticity of this family-run restaurant, which specializes in Thai delights like papaya salads and traditionally flavoured seafood dishes. Beer lovers should check out The Local Public Eatery (579 3rd St SE), a spot that offers elevated bar fare, like
super-crispy chicken sandwiches and goodie-laden meal-sized salads. Better yet, The Local is ground zero for craft beers, including local Medicine Hat brews from Hell’s Basement Brewery and the Medicine Hat Brew Company. For a road trip splurge, local Medicine Hatters favour the Redwood Steakhouse (1051 Ross Glen Drive SE) in the Medicine Hat Lodge hotel. The menu skews towards traditional Alberta beef (with seafood, if you like surf ‘n’ turf) with creative touches like bacon and mushroom dust, and fun appetizers like lobster corn dogs and a wild mushroom fondue.
Waterton
Whether you’re a hiker, photographer, wind surfer, fisherman, or golfer, or just love the beauty of Alberta’s national parks, Waterton has to be high on everyone’s road trip list. You can walk round this tiny town in under an hour – unless you’re tempted by one of the eateries along the way. And when you meet the owners, you’ll be impressed with the pride of local families doing local things, and you’ll be a part of the family in no time. Wendy West has been in restaurants for 54 years, and return customers are her mainstay at southern BBQ joint, Trappers Mountain Grill (106 Waterton
4:42 PM The moment you got together on the best patio in the city. The patios of Fairmont Hotel Macdonald are now open. Join us all summer long! Gateway to your moment in over 20 countries. fairmont.com/macdonald T: +1 780 777 9818
Wieners of Waterton
Avenue). They come for the house hickory hot smoked meat, and sweet potato poutine with smoked brisket or pulled pork... and regularly leave with a souvenir from the gift shop. A few doors down, you’ll find Zum’s (116 Waterton Avenue), famous for fried chicken and eclectic décor. It’s only open in summer though, and can be insanely busy at weekends. There’s a beautiful view over the lake from the Glacier Inn’s dining room (107 Windflower Avenue). Known for steak, the focus here is local, organic produce; be sure to make reservations as it’s pretty much full every night from the beginning of June. Wieners of Waterton (301 Windflower Avenue) is just down the road though,
Taco Bar
and the Low brothers’ will see you right with their choice of local sausage hot dogs, homemade buns and toppings, and multiple sauces for your fries. If you still have room, hop next door to Waffleton, their decadent Belgian waffle shop. And if you’re looking for a quick, easy and healthy bite, 3rd generation Waterton local, Julie Millar’s Taco Bar (300 Windflower Avenue) is across the road, offering up home-cooked Mexican food. Don’t forget to autograph the wall!
Turner Valley and Black Diamond Don’t wait until you have visitors to take a drive down the Cowboy Trail. There’s such good food and libations to be found at the southern end that many locations are destinations themselves. Tiny Turner Valley is home to Alberta’s first independent craft distillery, Eau Claire Distillery (113 Sunset Boulevard NW). Housed in the old movie theatre and dance hall, you’ll not only learn how their gin, vodka and whisky are made, but be entranced with stories of prohibition and the oil boom, and the original artifacts on display.
Eau Claire Distillery 24
Chuckwagon Café
Right next-door is legendary Chuckwagon Café (105 Sunset Boulevard NW), and their rib-sticking menu including their own ranch-raised Murray Grey beef. Don’t miss the flatiron steak eggs benny, which comes on a homemade butter croissant, or the shaved roast beef melt piled on a brioche bun. You’ll know why this cafe was featured on Food Network’s “You Gotta Eat Here” after ordering a burger or any dish from the all day breakfast menu, and you’ll be glad that you did – come very hungry! Just a few minutes away is Black Diamond, an arts community with more excellent eats. Stop at The Westwood (123 Government Road) for memorable and beautiful plates; the bison tartare, wild boar, and homemade pasta are noteworthy. Sunday makers
and growers markets start June 4-October 1 in the yard outside too. For fried munchies - kettle chips, pickles and avocado – as well as bison, beef and lamb burgers, Westwood burger bus is only a few metres away. Before heading home, Marv’s Classic Soda Shop (121 Centre Avenue W) is a must-visit - a classic diner straight out of the 1950s, complete with a 1957 jukebox and table top boxes. Servers are in authentic costumes, and if you’re lucky, Marv himself might serenade you with “Hey Good Looking.” Choose a malt or a shake, or build your own float from a choice of seven flavours of ice cream and 150-200 types of pop (ranch dressing flavour or maple bacon soda pop anyone?) and treat yourself to Marv’s famous peanut butter burger.
Marv’s Classic Soda Shop
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28 likes cowgirlonthebow Wine touring in British Columbia, favourite stop of the day was @poplargrovewinery. Had a great lunch on the Vanilla Pod patio and joined the Poplar Grove wine club! #theview #bcvqa #visitpenticton #winetouring #penticton #naramatabench #thelegacy #PGwineclub #wineclub
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Savour the Naramata Bench Wineries Association (NBWA) wines wherever you can. Still, there’s no substitute for being there on the Bench for personalized wine-country hospitality. NBWA members offer renowned wines, stunning locations and a convivial culture which makes visiting fun and approachable. NBWA tasting rooms are treasure troves as you meander along a 15-km country road starting in Penticton. Your eyes are drawn to sweeping views of hillsides of verdant vineyards, orchards and wineries, sloping down to glistening Okanagan Lake. Watch for cyclists. The pastoral road, and repurposed Kettle Valley Railroad trail that zigzags it, are magnets for athletes and wine aficionados alike. Embrace Canada’s 150th Anniversary Celebration by touring Naramata Bench – one of Canada’s premiere grape-growing regions. The 150th Anniversary is saluted in the “Back to Our Roots” theme for NBWA’s annual Tailgate Party, September 9. Hosted at D’Angelo Estate Winery this year, the festivities echo farming and tailgate traditions. Snap up your tickets now to avoid missing this perennially sold-out harvest celebration. For details on wineries’ tastings, dining, activities and events, check naramatabench.com frequently and click links to the wineries’ individual websites. Follow “naramatawines” on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.
Bench 1775 Winery
There’s “A Story in Every Bottle” and here, three NBWA members with award-winning wines, breathtaking views, wine country cuisine and comprehensive wine clubs are highlighted.
Bench 1775 Winery at Paradise Beach Vineyards General Manager/Winemaker Val Tait believes the “best patio view on the Naramata Bench” must be matched by the wines. Bench 1775’s philosophy is “to capture the full expression of grapes grown in vibrantly healthy and balanced vineyards” and to achieve such high-quality wines “the team is everything”. In a region where every turn yields another jaw-dropping vista, visit Bench 1775 to see for yourself and feel like a rock star. From award-winning wines, friendly team, incredible view and fabulous food, it’s a must-visit winery. “East meets West” is the Bistro’s theme: Executive Chef Andy Tong brings Asian flare with his famous Beijing Duck and Teppanyaki-style. Sous Chef Donna Fellows returns with the wood-fired artisanal pizzas instrumental in American Express Global awarding Bench 1775 #4 World’s Best Al Fresco dining. More information at bench1775.com
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Tait points out, “The views are unbelievable and there’s an incredible balance on the Naramata Bench of quiet and lively.” No wonder it’s a top destination for wine enthusiasts.
Poplar Grove Winery Poplar Grove began in 1993, and is one of the original five wineries on the Naramata Bench. While its ownership and location on the Bench has changed, the commitment to produce world-class wines from family-owned estate grown fruit remains. “Our wines are born from the courage to go beyond what’s possible,” explains Tony Holler, Owner and President. “From the first hint of green in spring, the struggle with nature begins; every year brings with it a unique challenge. For a great wine to emerge, every aspect of the Estate Vineyards must be nurtured. At Poplar Grove, we embrace the struggle.” Its picture-perfect location on the slopes of Munson Mountain overlooking Okanagan Lake and the City of Penticton beckons as you head up the Naramata Bench. From its iron gates to its stunning architecture no detail is overlooked. The bright and expansive space along with the congenial and knowledgeable staff enhances your ability to appreciate the foresight involved in creating these fine wines. For example, you’ll be introduced to the newly released Blanc de Noirs 2016, out just in time for patio season.
BEST IN CLASS 2012 cabernet franc
BEST IN CLASS 2015 gewürztraminer
BEST IN CLASS 2013 merlot
Visit us:
HILLSIDEWINERY.CA
While visiting, you’ll be tempted to partake of Chef Bruno Terroso’s contemporary cuisine in The Vanilla Pod Restaurant at Poplar Grove. Guests travel from afar to enjoy his culinary presentations and enjoy breathtaking views of the Okanagan Valley.
SHARE. LIKE. TWEET #HILLSIZE #LOCAVIN
/HILLSIDEWINES @HILLSIDEWINES @HILLSIDEWINERY
1350 Naramata Road | Penticton, BC | 250.493.6274 | info@hillsidewinery.ca
To celebrate Canada’s 150th on July 1, the Vanilla Pod is hosting a long-table dinner. Chef Terroso is creating a menu to incorporate traditional ingredients from each province to create a signature menu that highlights the beauty of Canadian ingredients and cuisine.
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For details on wines available, events, the Wine Club, tasting room and restaurant hours, and information on hosting special events, see poplargrove.ca.
Hillside Winery & Bistro Unique, small-lot, and terroir-driven are terms best used to describe Hillside wines. Winemaker Kathy Malone, focuses on hand-crafting wine made from 100% Naramata grown grapes. With gratitude to founder Vera Klokocka whose vision in 1984 was to plant interesting varietals, the Hillside portfolio is distinctive and compelling. A favourite is Muscat Ottonel, which received Double Gold at a recent competition. Additionally, you’ll find their Single-Vineyard Series showcases the Naramata Bench as a collection of serious terroirs. Hillside was the first winery designed by architect Robert MacKenzie in 1997. The landmark timber-frame structure takes inspiration from an old grist mill design and is complete with a 72-foot tower - a distinguishing feature from the more modern constructions now prevalent. 2017 brings the expansion of the wineshop veranda, some modern upgrades to both the tasting room and bistro resulting in more designated areas for seated tastings and special events. Perhaps most exciting is Executive Chef Brent Pillon’s refocused menu which encourages sharing and pairing. Smaller plates and a wider selection of locallyinspired dishes make for the quintessential wine and food experience. A lovely addition to the Bistro’s beverage program is a sparkling Gamay made from Hillside Founder’s Block, the successful result of Bella Wines and Hillside teaming up together. Hillside’s ever popular Wine Club is almost legendary. For details on it, hours of operation, bistro menu and reservations, see hillsidewinery.ca.
Golden Ticket to Tailgate
JOIN THE BENCH 1775 WINE CLUB Join our Wine Club to access the 2016 Malbec Nouveau Package, where you could find a Golden Label and win 2 tickets to the 2017 Naramata Bench Tailgate Party and Tour & Tasting with our Winemaker!
BENCH1775.COM 1775 Naramata Rd, Penticton, BC / 250.490.4965
Canadian Cocktails Reworked by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
As we’re celebrating Canada’s 150th birthday this month, we asked two Alberta mixologists to let us have their take on Canadian classic cocktails that we can make at home.
Christina Mah
Klein / Harris, Calgary Developed in 1969, this Calgary flagship cocktail captures bold and savoury ingredients. Mah’s version uses Klein / Harris clam and celery broth (recipe below), and is laced with a tomato, pickled celery and carrots. She says, “Your choice of vodka or gin. We love this drink because it is a refreshing take on a classic.”
Clam and Celery Broth
1 L (4 cups) clam nectar 2 bundles of celery 1¼ cup sugar 1½ cup (375 mL) apple cider vinegar 28 g salt
Combine all ingredients in a container and blend with an immersion blender. Strain, then portion and label. Keep refrigerated.
Klein / Harris Flagship Caesar
1½ oz vodka or gin 3 oz Klein / Harris clam and celery broth 2 tsp (10 mL) citric acid or to taste (or ½ oz lime juice) ½ tsp or to taste of your favourite hot sauce Garnish: pickled julienned celery and carrot
Swizzle the ingredients in a Collins’ glass with a healthy portion of ice, then garnish with pickled celery and carrot.
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James Grant
Woodwork Bar in Edmonton Perfect for a warm summer evening, The Confederation Cocktail is Grant’s reworking of the classic Colonial Cocktail from the Savoy cocktail manual, and pairs gin with the bittersweet citrus of grapefruit. “London dry gin provides an herbaceous, dry backbone for the drink, while Aperol brings a touch of sweetness and a strong, citrus bitter character. A dash of lemon juice balances the flavours with a touch of acid,” Grant says. “Cocchi Americano lengthens the cocktail, allowing you to savour its full complexity. Grapefruit zest and grapefruit bitters provide bright notes of citrus to tie everything together,” he adds.
The Confederation Cocktail
1½ oz London dry gin 1 oz Cocchi Americano blanc aperitivo ½ oz Aperol 1 barspoon (2 tsp or 10 mL) lemon juice 6 dashes grapefruit bitters
Stir all the ingredients over ice, and strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a twist of grapefruit zest.
Buchanan’s
Going Back In Time:
Celebrating Historic Alberta Food Spots by ANNA BROOKS
It’s a big month for Canada. After all, it’s not everyday you turn 150! And while Alberta’s restaurant scene isn’t quite that old (yet…), we figured of all months, June would be the most appropriate to celebrate some important provincial meal milestones as well. The dark, cozy space at Buchanan’s — known for its savoury sirloin burger and world-class whisky list — is welcoming 29 years in business. Back when Calgary was host to the Olympics in 1988, owners Carol and Michael Buchanan decided to open up their own place. The pair had just
returned from overseas, and Michael had great success running restaurants all over the Europe and the U.K. “Michael always knew if you were going to be successful in the restaurant business, you had to be in the real estate business,” Carol Buchanan says. Part of a savvy few who own both their business and their building, Buchanan says the recent economic downturn in Alberta might have wiped them out if they didn’t have the luxury of being their own landlords. “We were always hoping to eventually buy the building where our restaurant was,” she says. “That’s the No. 1 reason why we could survive this particular downturn, which I call a “black hole”
that sucked out the middle of downtown Calgary.” Von’s Steakhouse & Oyster Bar in Edmonton has faced similar troubles over the past few years, but restaurant manager Alissa Hildahl says with some menu tweaks and a revamping of their space, they were able to keep up with the changing tide since the steak joint first opened in 1988. Now a contemporary, brick space with a fireplace and rounded leather booths, Von’s has some of the best, fresh seafood (don't miss the coconut shrimp) and prime rib in town. “There’s been a lot of updating menus to reflect the changing palate of our guests,” explains Hildahl. “Clientele 31
Formerly called The Silk Hat, Bhatnagar bought the space 10 years ago when it was going out of business. Paying homage to the rich history of the space, he decided to call it The Hat.
Caesar’s Steakhouse & Lounge
Serving up Reuben sandwiches, grilled liver and onions, and Coke in glass bottles during its many years as a diner, Bhatnagar has kept the old, heavy stainless steel countertops, but revamped the food and drink program. “We classify ourselves as a resto pub. We have all the things any pub will have, but several notches up,” he says. are looking for more fresh, local and healthier ingredients from Edmonton and Alberta. We want to make sure they’re getting good quality and service for their hard-earned money.” Both opening the same year, Von’s and Buchanan’s are spots that have morphed into restaurant monuments in Alberta. In the case of Buchanan’s, the next generation of ownership will come with Carol and Michael’s son James. Family ties seem to be important factors in any business’ longevity, as evident by restaurants like Caesar’s Steakhouse & Lounge. Celebrating their 45 birthday, Caesar’s has been passed down through two generations of family. To make it to any old age, a loyalty to living is also paramount; Smuggler’s Inn owner Frank Krowicki’s longstanding commitment to some Von’s Steakhouse & Oyster Bar
seriously stellar cuts of beef is another example of a family restaurant hitting their 40-year landmark. It may not be quite as mature as Canada, but the century-old building housing The Hat On Jasper in Edmonton has more than a 100 years worth of stories to tell. “I was so excited to be associated with a property more than 100 years old,” says current owner Mayank Bhatnagar. “Based on my research, I haven’t found a single restaurant in Canada that’s been continuously open or hasn’t moved locations for 106 years.” The Hat On Jasper
With an expansive beer and wine menu (and the second best scotch list in Edmonton), The Hat makes almost everything from scratch, the rest of their products supplied fresh by the Italian Centre Shop.
“If you were going to be successful in the restaurant business, you had to be in the real estate business” Another Alberta institution, the everelegant La Chaumiere in Calgary is also approaching 40 years in business, and has stayed true to French cuisine with their take on duck confit, veal sweetbreads and escargot dishes. “We have clientele who have been coming here for the last 30 years,” says owner Joseph De Angelis. “First they came with their parents, and then their children… sometimes you see three family generations having dinner here — that definitely makes it a success.” And it’s not just the customers who’ve shown such loyalty to the Calgary establishment. Unlike probably any restaurant you’ve ever heard of, La Chaumiere has only had two dishwashers cycle through; after the
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La Chaumiere
first retired, her niece took the job over and is still there today. Sadly, so many great places have shut down over the last few years, and that’s why we think it’s even more important to ring the birthday bells for these spots that only seem to get better with age.
Looking Back: 10 Of Alberta’s Oldest Restaurants Teddy’s Restaurant, Edmonton: opened 1937 Hy’s Steakhouse & Cocktail Bar, Calgary: opened 1955 Commodore Restaurant, Edmonton: opened 1942 Silver Dragon Restaurant, Calgary: opened 1966 The Lingnan, Edmonton: opened 1947 Nick’s Steakhouse & Pizza: opened 1979 Bistro Praha, Edmonton: opened 1977 Buzzards Restaurant & Bar, Calgary: opened1980 Sorrentino’s, Edmonton: opened 1986 Pegasus Greek Restaurant, Calgary: opened 1983
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Canadian Wine:
Raising A Glass To Canadian Terroir by TOM FIRTH with LINDA GARSON
Courtesy Wines of British Columbia
It wasn’t all that long ago when Canadian wine actually wasn’t very good. Now I can hear indignation, but for a long time — even before Canada was Canada — there’s been winemaking on these shores. From the Nordic legacy when “Vineland” was colonized by Nordic explorers, to those dark days when Port Moody, B.C. was one of the largest wine producing “regions” of Canada, there was a lot of what I’ll generously call unremarkable wine, notable for being local before local was a thing. Yet in the last 30 or so years, Canada’s winemaking talent and viticultural pioneers proved vinifera grapes like cabernet sauvignon could ripen in the Okanagan. In Ontario, Inniskillin Wines was granted the first winery license 34
since prohibition, closely followed by Chateau des Charmes. It takes time to see these works yield fruit (literally and figuratively), but the quality of Canadian wine certainly started improving through the 1980s; by the late 1990s, it was competing strongly against international examples.
After all, Canada only turns 150 once!
It’s hard to talk about the success of Canadian wine without talking about the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA), which started in Ontario in 1988 followed by B.C. in 1990. Similar in nature to the
appellation system in other countries, it famously accomplished a way to acknowledge wineries using grapes sourced from Canadian vineyards. With VQA, wineries began making high quality wine from Canadian vineyard sites, which is really where terroir begins — growing the right grapes in special places. Wine production is centered on two major areas in Canada. Ontario is the largest, with the Niagara Peninsula accounting for most of their wine, though Prince Edward County and a few other areas are garnering attention too. In B.C., the Okanagan Valley is the foundation stone for its wines, with smaller production taking place on Vancouver Island and the Similkameen Valley along with some smaller areas of production emerging.
Not to be forgotten, Quebec produces table wines mostly using hybrid varieties around the Eastern Townships, though we are more likely to find iced apple ciders here. Nova Scotia is also gaining traction with their winemaking; several well-regarded sparkling wines are made in the province, and more recently, their Tidal Bay appellation is making waves (ha-ha!) with crisp, off-dry whites. Finally, we see winemaking taking place in the rest of the country. Alberta, too cold for vinifera, has several honey and fruit wineries, Saskatchewan has a winery in the Cypress Hills, and there other wineries peppered throughout the other Atlantic provinces as well. Consumer acceptance for Canadian wines has come along slowly, helped of course by tourism. Both Niagara and the Okanagan are wonderful, scenic places conveniently located close to the U.S. border, and I’d highly recommend visiting wine country in Nova Scotia or Quebec if you get the chance. Nowadays in Canada, we can enjoy pinot noirs that compare to the finest Burgundies, incredible cool climate chardonnays, dynamic and racy rieslings, and the emergence of a truly distinctive style of syrah. Canadian producers seem to have solved any quality or perception issues, while facing what might be their biggest problem to date: interprovincial trade barriers. Most consumers and adherents of Canadian wine are perplexed that it may technically be illegal to order wine online from a different province. While some folks hold out hope for a free market for locally made beverage products, it may still be some way off. So please, join me in raising a glass (or two, or three…) to some beautiful Canadian-made wines in 2017. After all, Canada only turns 150 once!
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JoieFARM 2014 PTG Okanagan Valley, British Columbia A blend of pinot noir and gamay, to my knowledge, JoieFARM are the only folks making one in the Okanagan. All the beauty of pinot noir, coupled with the pepper spice and strawberry notes of gamay. Rich and spicy on the palate with the right amount of earthiness to the tannins. Easy, versatile, and discussion-worthy. Drink now or soon. CSPC +823799 $36
Culmina R&D 2016 Rosé Blend Golden Mile Bench, British Columbia While the folks at Culmina might be making the biggest waves with their grüner or their big reds, don’t overlook this pretty little number. Frosted strawberries, cotton candy, and delicate floral tones lead off, while palate-wise flavours are consistent, a little ethereal, and oh-so-yummy. Fine stuff for fans of serious rosé. CSPC +791957 About $30
Mission Hill 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Okanagan Valley, British Columbia There’s nothing quite like enjoying a beautiful cabernet sauvignon with a top quality, Alberta-made steak. Cedar and cherry pie filling with graphite, spice box, and a bare touch of green pepper on the nose. Chewy tannins (perfect for that steak) with blackberry and cherry fruits and a long, graceful finish. CSPC +330506 $26 or so
Van Westen 2014 Vino Grigio Okanagan Valley, British Columbia Robert Van Westen’s voluptuous pinot grigio has plenty of apple and stone fruits, with a smidgeon of hazelnut and thyme herbaciousness. Light and crisp, it’s a serious pinot grigio with some steely mineral and serious depth. Would work well with fried or rotisserie chicken, scallops or grilled prawns. CSPC +739190 About $32
Evolve NV Effervescence Okanagan Valley, British Columbia A blend of pinot blanc and chardonnay, look for peaches, soft cider, and more than a touch of pear on the nose. Tempting your palate are bright and soft-leaning tropical fruits like banana and mango, with mid-sized bubbles. Easy, fresh, and well priced. CSPC +789665 $23
Tantalus 2016 Riesling Okanagan Valley, British Columbia A Canadian legend in riesling, the folks at Tantalus knock this grape out of the park year after year. Wildly intense lime and crushed green apple fruits with slate minerality and a touch of rock candy. Quite dry with a little sweetness, it’s got style in abundance. No food required! CSPC +740494 $35
Burrowing Owl 2015 Sauvignon Blanc Okanagan Valley, British Columbia I’m always a little cautious with my sauvignon blanc dollars — is it going to be a kiwi approach or something a little more European? Burrowing Owl’s is a treat. Ripe melon, a little honeysuckle, peach and lime with a touch of gooseberry. Crisp with plenty of acid, and a mild richness across the mid and back palate call for turkey breast, rotisserie chicken and naturally, seafood. CSPC +1118652 About $28
Tinhorn Creek 2015 Oldfield Reserve Chardonnay Golden Mile Bench, British Columbia The first release with the new label, this is exceptional chardonnay from the valley. Bold as brass with plenty of oak character (fermented and aged in oak), look for vanilla, buttered toast, with a nicely played tropical fruitiness. Love big oak? It’s rich, spicy, and warming. Looking for wine for the fire pit? Try this one. Match at dinner with roasted fowl or steak (with lobster, of course). CSPC +784497 About $37
Peninsula Ridge Cabernet Merlot 2015 Niagara Peninsula VQA, Ontario This wine smells like Boeuf En Daube to me – or is that just wishful thinking? Bring it on! A blend of 83 percent cabernet sauvignon and 17 percent merlot, this is such an easy drinking, let’s-open-another-bottle wine, and at the crazy value price, could be sinful. The tannins are very soft, and there are dark and plummy flavours, but with a good acidity that makes your mouth water. CSPC +783255 $16
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Closson Chase The Brock Chardonnay 2015, Niagara River VQA, Ontario This wine is a sunny colour out of the bottle, and opens with delicate lemon notes leading to a creamy mouth feel. It’s a beautifully balanced wine, easy drinking and very delicious. While elegant, The Brock would be equally good with a grilled cheese sandwich as it would with Chicken Cordon Blue, or an Alfredo pasta sauce with shrimp or chicken. CSPC +1108168 $23
Laughing Stock 2014 Portfolio Okanagan Valley, British Columbia One of the “icon” wines of the Okanagan, Laughing Stock’s Portfolio is a Rockstar through and through. A Bordeaux-based blend centred around merlot strikes the right balance. Decant now or cellar for a few years. I think 3 years or so in the cellar will let these pure fruits integrate with these divine spice and earth tones. CSPC +736239 $55
Norman Hardie Pinot Noir Unfiltered 2015, Niagara Peninsula VQA, Ontario This unfiltered/unfined wine has a fruity and floral, yet meaty, nose that makes you hungry before you’ve even taken a sip. I’m already dreaming of duck or rabbit for dinner, drawn in by rich, dark and tart, cherry fruit on the palate with an uncommon complexity and depth of flavour. Savour this one, and drink it with friends. CSPC +740111 $45
Quails’ Gate 2015 Chenin Blanc Okanagan Valley, British Columbia Great chenin blanc, makes the soul happy. Quails’ Gate is one of the few in the Okanagan using it, and fans of the grape will like the dried lemon and honey notes on the nose along with a mild, wooly “Hudson’s Bay blanket” layer. Crisp, dry, and impeccably balanced, it would be simply perfect with fried chicken, grilled seafood, or salty chips. CSPC +391854 $25
Chateau Des Charmes Rosé Cuvée d’Andrée 2015 Niagara-On-The-Lake VQA, Ontario A deep watermelon-colour, this wine is a fresh, dry rosé wine from pinot noir grapes. Delicate aromas of raspberry sherbet change to strawberry as it warms. It's light-to medium bodied, and ohso-easy drinking. Serve it well chilled (you and the wine) on your patio with a charcuterie plate or terrine, and pickles. CSPC +78055 $17
Vineland Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2014, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario Dark cherry and cassis aromas greet you on giving this wine a swirl, along with herbal notes. While the wine is lush and soft, there are bright hints and a gentle acidity to make your mouth water and cry out for another sip. It’s silky smooth, and a perfect partner to my roast elk rack, but would also be a great match for a pork chop or a juicy burger with relish. CSPC +594127 $19
TH Wines 2015 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, British Columbia Tyler Harlton’s wines came swinging out of the gate, earning accolades and plenty of interest from wine drinkers. All of his wines are pretty tasty. As for the pinot noir, plenty of fresh farmyard aromas with cocoa, cherries, tomato leaf, and herb. Quite Burgundian in style, layers of complex flavours, some subtle, some overt, but truly a discussion-worthy glass of wine. CSPC + 761994 $38
Henry of Pelham Old Vines Baco Noir 2014, Ontario Big daddy to Henry of Pelham’s Baco Noir, Old Vines has a seductive nose; it’s plush, rich and ripe with dark aromas of plum and mulberry, and minty high notes. The palate is satisfying — dark berries and soft fruit, balsamic reduction, chocolatey with almost a pomegranate note, and silky smooth. I hanker after some venison with this wine, but it could equally pair with roast lamb or a wild boar casserole. CSPC +459966 $25
Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 2016 Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia 2016 Nova 7 is the 10th anniversary of one of Nova Scotia’s signature wines. To celebrate this vintage and its grapes grown on the shores of the Bay of Fundy, the wine is wild fermented and completely natural. A refreshing off-dry sparkling wine with delicate flavours of red berries, apricot and sherbet — a wine for any occasion. Bring on the charcuterie, olives, and pickles! CSPC +756521 $25 37
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In early May the Great Events Catering team thanked friends and clients for their continuing support with the Foodies in the Park event at Bow Valley Ranche, where hundreds of guests sampled dishes made with 2017’s most celebrated ingredients. Calgary’s Chef of the Year, Daryl Kerr, and his team explored trends like wild game meat and fresh herbs, all with Kerr’s signature creativity. Food in 2017 is all about freshness and local flair — best exemplified with dishes created with products like fresh honey in the form of chunks of honeyflavoured fudge, and Amarena cherries, gently folded into sweet perogies and garnished with other fresh berries. Edible flowers are another key trend appearing in food and drink: zucchini blossoms make for delicious savory bites and a variety of edible florals can elevate a cocktail, like a gin-spiked lemonade, both as a flavour and a garnish. Some food trends are so seasonal that chefs need to grasp onto them while they can — the local fiddleheads in Chef Kerr’s ravioli and the wild ramps served with fresh fish have such a short growing season that chefs only have a few weeks to play with them. These on-trend ingredients and others, like wild mushrooms, are providing endless inspiration to chefs. Take a bite out of them while you can — and then get ready for the new trends that lurk around the corner in 2018.
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The Beer Is Better Up Here: Celebrating Canada’s Brewing Culture by KIRK BODNAR
One might say craft beer is really taking off these days — but that would be a massive understatement. Alberta alone has more than 50 breweries slated to open within the next 18 months, and that doesn’t count those already open. This is truly exciting, though it is not solely an Alberta phenomenon. British Columbia and Ontario have both been experiencing a craft beer boom, and Quebec has had a well-established craft beer scene for years. The Maritimes are also experiencing growth approaching Alberta’s level.
©2016 Palm Bay International Boca Raton, Fl.
Even Saskatchewan and Manitoba are entering a beer renaissance of their own, with a number of new breweries popping up over the past few years. Overall, Canada is definitely coming into its own. What better way to celebrate the vast and diverse nature of the nation we call home than to take a virtual journey through each of Canada’s beer regions.
Despite my love for Alberta beer, I felt choosing just one to feature would be akin to deciding which one of my children is my favourite — please forgive me! Courtesy Brasserie Dieu du Ciel
Let’s start in the Yukon. One of Canada’s most sparsely populated areas; it’s no surprise that the north has the fewest number of breweries. That being said, one well-established brewery has been a Yukon mainstay for more than a decade.
coffee character with the addition of locally roasted coffee, make for a beer perfectly suited for staying awake all night in the summer when the sun refuses to set.
Yukon Brewing has always championed themselves as a supplier of quality beers for the north, and along the way they’ve provided us “southerners” with some great quality beer.
We now travel south toward Victoria, B.C., and Driftwood Brewery. Since 2008, Driftwood has played no small role in helping define Victoria’s already deep-rooted beer scene.
A favourite from Yukon Brewing is their Midnight Sun Espresso Stout (CSPC +777142 $18 per six pack). Rich roasted malt, chocolate and a considerable
Driftwood brews a wide variety of beer styles, but a great choice is their delicious Farmhand Saison (CSPC +770722 $9 650 mL bottle), which is
modelled after the rustic farmhouse brews of southern Belgium. Farmhand comes close to being a classic example, showcasing the characteristic Belgian yeast that creates a fruity yet spicy character, which is further enhanced with the addition of black pepper. Travelling eastward past Alberta, we hit the province of my birth, Saskatchewan. Stopping in Swift Current, the relatively new Black Bridge Brewery is quickly gaining well-earned respect by producing exceptional beer. They have a small, but ever-growing line-up of well-crafted beers, including a great Rye Ale (CSPC +769216 $16 per 6 pack). Ideal combinations of toasty malt, pine, citrus, and a bit of ryespiciness make this beer a delight. To me, a rye-based beer is a perfect reflection of the prairies, and by extension, Black Bridge itself is a fantastic representative of the region.
Here in Alberta, we are fortunate to be able to have a great selection of beer from all across the country We now head further east to Ontario toward a rural area just east of Ottawa. For Canada’s birthday, there may be no better choice than the beer recently named the official beer for the Canada 150 Celebrations: Beau’s All Natural Brewing Company’s Lug Tread Lagered
Courtesy Brasserie Dieu du Ciel
Ale (CSPC +169334 $25 per 4 (600 mL) pack). As with all of Beau’s beers, Lug Tread is organic. Quite simply, it’s an extremely refreshing, cold conditioned blonde ale, similar to German Kolsch-style beers. A great choice for the big celebration! About 100 kilometres east of Beau’s brewery across the Ottawa River, lies a staple of the Quebec craft beer scene, Montreal’s Brasserie Dieu du Ciel. They have been crafting award-winning beers for well over a decade, never being afraid of brewing risky beers, with unique ingredients. For our journey, we’ll go with one of the fantastic IPAs they produce —
Moralité (CSPC +765733 $23 per 6 pack). Although perhaps not exactly a New England-Style IPA, Moralité was originally created as a collaboration with legendary Vermont brewery, The Alchemist. It definitely stands on its own, in any case, as one of Canada’s best IPAs. Finally, we head to Fredericton, New Brunswick and to an east coast favourite, Picaroons, which has been producing solid British-inspired ales since 1995. I know a number of Maritimers that were very excited when Picaroons made its way to Alberta a few years ago. For me, the Irish Red (CSPC +766398 $5 per 500 mL bottle) is a great choice — a nice combination of sweet caramel and roasty malt with a mild hop bitterness. Canada is an incredibly vast country, and with the ever-increasing number of craft breweries coming online, it’s not easy to sample everything that Canada has to offer. Luckily, here in Alberta, we are fortunate to be able to have a great selection of beer from all across the country. Be sure to give some a try this summer while celebrating Canada’s birthday! Kirk Bodnar is a Certified CICERONE®, BJCP beer judge, beer consultant, history teacher, home brewer, and Education Director for CAMRA Alberta.Follow him on Twitter @beersnsuch
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the world. Life took off with the opening of Nyood in 2008, more restaurants and albums followed, but he was in too many meetings, hiring and firing — something had to give.
Open That Bottle
story by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
“You know when you ask little kids, what do you want to be when you grow up? My aunt did that when I was three years old, and without blinking I said, “I’m going to be a chef,” laughs Roger Mooking. In 1979, the Mooking family left their native Trinidad for a new life in Canada. They took a train across the country to decide where to live. “My dad loved Alberta,” he says. “He loved the big sky, he loved that there was a booming economy, the cost of living was low, and there was no provincial (sales) tax. We lived in northeast Edmonton, and for years we were the only black people in our schools.” Mooking’s grandfather came from China and opened bakeries and restaurants, and his father, aunts and uncles owned restaurants and catering companies. In his late teens, he worked in restaurants and put all his earnings into recording music. “I sing, I rap, I produce, I write, so there’s been times in my career where 42
music dominated my calendar. Now it’s a mix of food, music, cookbooks, and television shows,” says Mooking. “It’s all entertainment.” Hating the industry of music, Mooking went to George Brown College in Toronto while working full time in a restaurant. He worked hard in restaurants, catering companies, and hotels for years before accepting the executive chef position at Toronto’s Barrio, in 2004. “They were launching Food Network at the time, and they used to film television shows around the corner. The skeleton staff were working ridiculous hours, and they used to come to my restaurant,” he says. “I had already done TV and performed with bands, and I just wanted to chill, cook my food, and go home – but they said, ‘We want you to do some shows.’” Mooking didn’t like the concepts and declined, but a couple of years later they met again, and eventually launched Everyday Exotic, selling it around
Working for Food Network and the Cooking Channel in America, Mooking opened Twist at Pearson Airport, and while catering the Junos in Calgary last year, Telus Spark — knowing his history of working with all dietary restrictions, age and income levels — asked him to revamp their food and beverage program. That’s when he came up with the new Social Eatery concept. So what is Mooking’s special bottle? “I live in a multi generational home, so every now and again we’re able to sneak off,” he explains. A work trip provided the opportunity for his wife to join him for her first visit to Las Vegas, and his friend, Giada De Laurentiis’ culinary director, arranged for him to take her to Giada for dinner. “We were treated amazingly,” he says. “When we arrived, the maître d’ brought us a flute of La Marca prosecco with a twist of lime in it, and my wife drank it and said “What is this drink? It’s the best drink I’ve had in my life!” “I bought a few bottles, so there’s always one ready in the fridge,” says Mooking. “It may be because I’m home and it’s a Tuesday, and the kids are in bed. I don’t believe in waiting for an occasion, you wake up and breathe — that’s an occasion.” Win a signed copy of Everyday Exotic: The Cookbook! For your chance to win a copy of Roger Mooking’s cookbook signed specially for Culinaire, go to culinairemagazine.ca, click on the cookbook cover, and tell us about your most memorable exotic dish. Good luck, we can’t wait to hear from you! Courtesy Food Network Canada
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