Culinaire #7:4 (September 2018)

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ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 7 NO.4 :: SEPTEMBER 2018

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ALBERTA’S FINEST DRINKS LISTS AWARDS! 60

WINNING

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FORAGING:

TREASURES ALONG THE TRAILS

MINUTE RECIPES TO MAKE AT HOME

Yogurt Three Ways | Cooking with Sherry | Spam Spam Spam

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24 VOLUME 7 / ISSUE #4 SEPTEMBER 2018

Features 13

Treasure Along The Trails Alberta’s backcountry has an abundance of plants that feed and heal, and local foraging experts are educating us on our province’s bounty

by Gwendolyn Richards

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15

Baking With Lentils …for moisture, protein, and fibre

by Renee Kohlman

35 Back To School Beer Terms… understanding the lingo

by David Nuttall

18 Yogurt 3 Ways The new workhorse in your kitchen

by Natalie Findlay

20 Cooking With Sherry

The kitchen wizard

by Morris Lemire

Spam Around the World Canned meat is either loved or loathed, but Spam seems to have found a special place in the hearts of people around the world

by Carmen Cheng

38 Making The Case …for summertime memories

by Tom Firth

24 2018 Alberta’s Finest Drink

Lists Awards

Highlighting the best drinks lists in Alberta!

by Tom Firth and Linda Garson with Stephanie Arsenault, Tannis Baker, and Alita Brown

Departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

8

Book Review – Food Artisans of Alberta

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Chefs’ Tips and Tricks: 30-Minute Meals

40 September Spirits For cool evenings and fleeting warm days

by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

42 Open That Bottle Jan Hansen, Culinary Instructor, SAIT

by Linda Garson On the Cover: Many thanks to Ingrid Kuenzel for her beautiful front cover photograph showing many of the drinks you’ll find in this issue's Alberta's Finest Drinks Lists Awards!

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Letter From The Editor beautiful, but lesser known areas of Italy – Le Marche, on the Adriatic coast. I may now be the verdicchio queen of Calgary!

And I was lucky to have a little time too in my hometown of Manchester, where I could indulge myself with some of the best Indian food in the country.

It’s been a hugely busy summer for the Culinaire team. With no August issue we always think it will be a time for regrouping and planning, which it is too, but then we ran our 2nd Alberta’s Finest Drinks Lists Awards, our free-to-enter awards program open to all licensed premises in the province.

Welcome back! Did you manage to get away for a break? If so, I hope it was a memorable journey full of delicious eats and treats for you.

I was lucky to spend a few days tasting the wines and food of one of the most

We believe the drinks list is as important as the food menu when dining out, and we were thrilled with the substantial growth in entries from our inaugural year. Many thanks to all the restaurants, bars, hotels, and pubs that entered their lists, and to our hosts, Hotel Arts – an

excellent venue for the judging. Check out the results starting on page 24!

Shortly afterwards, we were setting up for our 6th Alberta Beverage Awards – open to all wines, beers, and spirits in the province – and another enormous undertaking. We’re excited to bring you the results next month in our October issue!

And we’ve been busy finalising the details for our 3rd Edmonton Treasure Hunt.

We’re sorry if you weren’t able to register in time; we hate to disappoint anyone, but the places all booked up very quickly.

Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief Many thanks to all the eagle eyes that took the time to write to us and let us know of the misspelling of Beaumont in our road-tripping article. We’re sorry it slipped passed all our proofreaders across the province.

Abbondante (Ab-OH DON-te)

This is how we say “bountiful” in Italian. For Italians, delicious, bountiful meals are a way of life and the dinner table is where we bond. It’s where families come together, friends are found, and memories are made.

Gather with family and friends and celebrate a bountiful harvest season with us.

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End CALGARY Willow Park

italiancentre.ca

Chef de Cuisine

Tobias Larcher

ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Director: John Tatton 403-616-5231 john@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Consultant: Gillian Roberts 403-990-1512 gillian@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Lead: Jenni Lavoie 587-336-7613 jenni@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor: Daniel Bontje web@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Carmen Cheng

Carmen comes from a long line of food lovers and notorious overorderers. Even at a young age, she loved to eat and try different dishes. She believes in learning about different cultures through understanding and honouring their culinary stories. She will try pretty much any food because there’s no room for pretension. Carmen has shared her food adventures on various forms of media and publications including print, online, and television..

Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Stephanie Arsenault Tannis Baker Anna Brooks Alita Brown Carmen Cheng Natalie Findlay Dong Kim Renee Kohlman Morris Lemire Karen Miller David Nuttall Gwendolyn Richards

< Karen Miller

Karen is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook for Culinaire reviews. She claims to have been on the “know where your food comes from” bandwagon sooner than most.

Always willing to impart knowledge to absolutely anybody who asks, Karen is practical but creative, having taught many styles of cooking classes. She was also part of the Calgary Dishing girls (producing two cookbooks)..

< Gwendolyn Richards

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Calgary-based food writer and photographer, and the author of Pucker: A Cookbook for Citrus Lovers, Gwendolyn writes about food trends, restaurants and recipes. On her blog, Patent and the Pantry, she chronicles her love of cooking, baking, and eating while traveling. Gwendolyn likes vintage cocktails and believes burgers are one of the finest food creations; she can be seen enjoying them while wearing her signature red lipstick.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca.

All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

Salutes...

Of the 30 restaurants nominated for Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2018, 6 are in Alberta!

In Edmonton, congrats go to Biera, Bundok, and Kanto 98th St, and in

Calgary, to Bread and Circus, Cruz Tacos, and Donna Mac. And two chefs are moving up! Diana Nacita was Executive Chef at Vin Room, and has now joined the team

at King Eddy as Chef and Kitchen Manager, and Chef Kaede Hirooka was Executive Chef at Vintage Chophouse and Elwood & The Rabbit, and has now joined Marriott Hotels’ One18 Empire.

and Shout Outs...

Space doesn’t allow for too much detail as there have been so many recent openings, so sign up for our monthly newsletter at culinairemagazine.ca to read lots more!

Cacao 70 Sweet House

In Edmonton, we welcome Cacao 70 Sweet House, a chocolate-focused drinks and dessert spot, in the Ice District’s Edmonton Tower. Come for brunch from 10am-4pm, and enjoy a selection of crepes, salads, and in-house baked savoury waffles. Or satisfy your sweet tooth with your choice of six chocolate fondues, six waffle and ice cream combos, sinful pizzas, and desserts, all washed down with hot or cold cocoa and frappes.

And while you’re here, take home chocolate made in Cacao 70’s chocolate factory in Montreal.

Chef Jake Lee, of Seoul Fried Chicken, has opened DOSC in the historic Metals Building at 104 Street and 102 Avenue – an artisan café, steakhouse, and cocktail bar open from breakfast to late, with an in-house butchery and a dry aging cooler.

Chef de cuisine Israel Alvarez is cooking 6

up an express breakfast menu, a craftily selected small lunch menu, and a tongue to tail menu with a choice of cuts, and gardener’s plot veggies and flour/potato/ grains sides. Plus crazy good desserts!

Finally, Peter Keith, Will Kotowicz, and Glendon Tan’s artisan food market, Meuwly’s is open at 10706 124 Street.

Springing from the success of their Secret Meat Club, a monthly food subscription box of house-made fresh sausages and charcuterie, as well as condiments, Meuwly’s is filled with cured and dried meats, specialty bacon, salamis and fresh sausages, plus a range of pickles and preserves, mustards, and products from other local artisans. Open Thursday–Monday 10am-8pm.

In Calgary, we’re happy to see Flower & Wolf in the old Barclay’s space at the Sheraton Suites Eau Claire. Open 7 days from breakfast until 11pm, this airy, modern restaurant isn’t trying to be cutting edge but serves up well-executed, familiar comfort food dishes.

Flower & Wolf

Chef Cole Glendinning has worked his way up through many Fairmont properties, and we loved his Scotch Eggs with truffled smoked onion jam, the amazing flatbread that comes with the dips, and his 28-day striploin. Desserts are generous and impressive, and don’t miss the weekday happy hour from 3-6pm when many of our fave dishes become almost half price with the same size portions, and $6 cocktails.

(And you’ll want to steal the knives!)

Crescent Heights is home to the new Tokyo Street Market, a collaboration between Ke Charcoal Grill and Kinjo Sushi based on fresh fast food. This kid-friendly, busy and bustling, casual restaurant on Centre Street N is perfect for a quick lunch or dinner, with choices of very affordable $5 ramen, yakitori, donburi, gyoza, and takoyaki. Relax with a beer or sake on the patio overlooking the city, and pick up some Japanese snacks to take home with you.

A very different take on Japanese food is to be found at the new Gorilla Whale, in the ex-Sugo location in Inglewood. Chef Dirk McCabe’s menu includes a choice of eight yakitori and three ramen bowls, karaage and Godzilla burgers, but also a selection of veg from yycgrowers (whom he supplies with mushrooms from Pennybun’s, his mushroom farm), and – with 48 hours notice – a family style feast for eight of roast suckling pig and fixings!

Gorilla Whale is loud, playful, and rock ‘n roll, but don’t be fooled – they take their food, cocktails, and drink menu, very seriously.

U b g rban ru

Real Food Made Easy

Chef-driven Market Cuisine

located inside Bite – Grocer & Eatery 1023 9th ave S.E. Inglewood • beaseatery.com

BEER BOURBON CHICKEN

www.northchickenyeg.com 10704 - 124 St NW | Edmonton

Book Review Food Artisans of Alberta

by Karen Anderson and Matilde Sanchez-Turri Touchwood Editions 2018. $25 Knowing the qualifications of these two authors, there is no doubt that this book will be informative and well researched.

They have been guiding Albertans through our culinary landscape for many years. As much a travel guide as a detailed guide to food purveyors and artisans, including the very new industry of craft beer and spirit producers in the province, the two aspects are intertwined successfully.

The convenience of using the book, whether just for piquing interest in the food in the province or the different geographical attractions, lies in the division of the province into 6 areas. It is so easy to familiarize yourself with your own region or plan a tour in another!

by KAREN MILLER

Although farmers and ranchers are given the spotlight, each region also showcases the food artisans within. Their stories are all different but a sense of obligation of community is a common thread. They all hold great visions for the future of food production in this province!

Maps of each region, showing locations welcoming visitors, make this book a very handy tool to have in the car for when an adventure takes you anywhere in the province. Reading this guide cover to cover, and despite knowing many of the stories behind the scenes, was inspiring.

The stories of the growing number of people who have now become our food footprint, including so many younger generation and families, are a reminder that it is up to us to support these food artisans who spend their time building and regenerating the soil in the province.

Karen Miller is a former lawyer who got on the â&#x20AC;&#x153;know where your food comes fromâ&#x20AC;? bandwagon earlier than most and now focuses on foraging her daily food from local growers.

Chefs' Tips

Tricks!

30-Minute Meals

by ANNA BROOKS photography by INGRID KUENZEL and DONG KIM

It’s that time of year again. Time to go back to school, back to work or if you never left work, time to mourn the loss of summer Fridays at the office.

Whatever the case may be, it seems when September hits, there’s a lot less time to do anything — especially cook. And there’s no worse feeling arriving home after a long day to an empty fridge.

To avoid the ire of hungry offspring or a salivating spouse, we teamed up with Alberta’s top culinary teachers and students this month to get some tips on delicious, healthy weekday meals you can make in 30 minutes or less!

Even for a chef, it’s tough to pull a meal out of your hat when you have a ravenous rug rat hanging off each arm. But it is easy to pull one out of a well-stocked pantry. Webber says he always has grains like quinoa and brown rice on hand, as well as ingredients like canned pumpkin for an expedited squash soup.

“I hate to say it as a chef, but I also keep some of those very basic, pantry-type sauces like spicy Thai “You get home at 4:30, have a soccer sauce around,” he says. “In the game at 6:00 — which is very frequent 30-minute realm of things you want in my house — and I need to feed my quality, but need to substitute a few kids,” says Nigel Webber, a long-time chef ingredients here and there to allow for instructor at NAIT in Edmonton. that speed.”

Chef Nigel Webber

If you’re making a grain bowl or stir-fry for dinner, you can save a lot of time by cooking grains and chopping vegetables the night before. With your prep steps out of the way, Webber says all you need to do is add a protein to the mix.

He recommends something easy to fry or grill, like boneless chicken thighs, or super speedy seafood like prawns, which only take a few minutes to cook.

For every fancy dish, there’s a 30-minute version. Try making Webber’s bourguignon-inspired meatballs!

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Veal Meatballs with Sour Cream Smashed Potato

Catherine Auger

Serves 4

750 g waxy potato, diced 50 g butter ¼ cup (60 mL) heavy cream 50 g sour cream To taste salt and pepper 30 g butter 4 strips of thick cut bacon, chopped 250 g cremini or button mushrooms, chopped 1 small yellow onion, chopped 1 egg 50 g breadcrumbs 600 g lean ground veal 3 g herbes de Provence, dry 10 g flour 50 g tomato puree 2 g fresh thyme ½ cup (120 mL) red wine ²/³ cup (160 mL) beef stock

1. Boil potatoes in a medium pot. Once

boiling, reduce heat to simmer for 8 to 10 minutes or until potatoes are tender.

2. Strain potatoes. Add butter, cream and sour cream to pot and warm gently. Add potatoes back to pot, and mash. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

3. Melt butter in a skillet on medium heat.

Add bacon and cook until slightly brown.

Add mushrooms and onions, and cook until translucent.

4. Put egg and breadcrumbs in a small

bowl and let hydrate. Mix in veal, dry herbs and season with salt and pepper. Shape into 16 to 20 small balls (smaller balls are preferred for quick cooking).

5. In your bacon, mushroom bourguignon

pan, add flour. Cook until incorporated and lightly browned. Add tomato paste, thyme, wine and beef stock. Bring to a simmer while stirring with a wooden spoon.

6. Add meatballs and cook for another 10

minutes or until meatballs are fully cooked.

Season with salt and pepper, and serve.

If time permits, brown your meatballs before adding to the stew!

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Auger says something as simple as frozen peas can be transformed into a satisfying pea and cream soup, and she always has her pantry stocked with preserved pulses like canned beans and chickpeas for salads and soups.

There’s no worse feeling arriving home after a long day to an empty fridge

Catherine Auger is one of Webber’s culinary students at NAIT, and adheres to his practice of prepping ahead of time.

It’s easy to feel discouraged and succumb to grabbing fast food or ordering in, but that’s usually because you don’t have the right (or any) ingredients in the house.

“Mise-en-place (having “everything in its place” in terms of prep) is everything when I’m on a time crunch to make dinner,” she says. “If you have grains in the fridge all ready to go, when you come home you don’t have to start from scratch. You can make something very tasty and delicious just using minimal ingredients.”

For a savoury (and healthy) weeknight dinner, try Auger’s roasted squash and lentil salad!

Roasted Butternut Squash and Lentil Salad Serves 4

1½ tsp cumin seeds 1 Kg butternut squash, peeled and diced 1 parsnip, peeled, halved lengthwise and sliced 2 medium white onions, coarsely chopped 1½ tsp ground cardamom 1 tsp freshly grated ginger Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg ¼ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup green lentils 1 cup (240mL) low sodium vegetable broth 1 bay leaf ½ cup hazelnuts, coarsely chopped ½ cup cilantro, coarsely chopped 2 Tbs (30 mL) apple cider vinegar 2 cups of arugula, or any other hearty green To taste salt and pepper

1. Preheat oven to 425º F. In a small

skillet, toast cumin seeds over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to spice (or coffee) grinder, and grind finely.

2. On a large baking sheet, toss butternut squash with parsnip, onions, spices, and 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring once or twice, or until vegetables are tender and lightly browned.

3. In a small saucepan, combine lentils

If you’re a starving student or parent with five mouths to feed, you can never go wrong with a classic. Michael Dekker, chef instructor at SAIT in Calgary, says one his of favourite — and most reliable — weeknight meals is spaghetti Bolognese.

His trick is making big batches of sauce ahead of time and freezing them—that way if there’s a day (probably a Monday) when dinner plans A – Z fall through, you have a comforting classic to fall back on.

“Planning ahead is key, I always have a lot of frozen bases,” he says. “And always think about ingredients with lower cook times. Pasta is a 15-minute cook compared to something like thick potatoes, which take much longer.”

Prepping meals a day or two in advance is a huge time saver Tacos make another great 30-minute meal, and also serve as a dependable backup. With corn tortillas in the freezer and salsa in the pantry, Dekker can always cobble together a satisfying last minute dish with a Mexican kick.

Try something delicious and surprisingly quick to make, like Dekker’s melt-inyour-mouth crab cake burgers!

with broth and bay leaf, and bring to a boil.

Reduce to simmer on low heat and cook until tender, roughly 25 minutes. Discard bay leaf and any excess liquid. Season with salt and pepper.

4. In a small bowl, whisk cilantro with

remaining 2 Tbs olive oil and apple cider vinegar. Season to taste.

5. During the last few minutes of roasting, add hazelnuts to the oven and toast until fragrant, 5 to 7 minutes.

6. In a large bowl, toss vegetables with

lentils, nuts, greens, and dressing, and serve.

Chef Michael Dekker

Whether you are looking for a place for an intimate dinner or need to plan an event, we can accomodate all your needs!

Crab Cake Burger

Darian Pestell

Serves 2

1 egg, beaten 3 Tbs (45 mL) mayonnaise 4 tsp (20 mL) fresh lemon juice ¹/8 tsp red pepper flakes 1 tsp tarragon 1 Tbs green onion, diced 226 g crab meat, lump meat preferred ½ cup panko crumbs To taste salt and pepper Olive oil, for frying

Preheat oven to 325º F.

1. Whisk egg, mayonnaise, lemon juice, red pepper, tarragon and green onions together in a bowl.

2.Gently fold in crab meat (try not to

break it up too much). Fold in panko crumbs, and season with salt and pepper.

3. Form into patties. Cook patties in a

frying pan on medium-high heat with olive oil until brown on both sides. Finish cooking in the oven for 4 to 5 minutes, or until warm inside. Slide on a bun of your choice, and serve! *Try swapping in some tasty add-ins like diced jalapenos, dill pickle, avocado chunks or sundried tomatoes.

Darian Pestell is a culinary student of Dekker’s, and runs a nutrition blog stocked full of tasty recipes perfect for weeknight meals. SAIT has also taught her the art of prioritization, and she says prepping meals a day or two in advance is a huge time saver.

“After getting groceries, I’ll cut up my veggies, roast them and they’re good to go for whole week in the fridge,” Pestell says.

“If you have a good stock on hand, you can make a soup really quickly. Just heat up some onions, garlic and your roasted veggies, puree, and you have a nice, healthy soup.”

Pestell has a soft spot for tacos, and so do we. Try her zesty cauliflower and avocado tacos!

Cauliflower Tacos with Lime Avocado Crema Serves 2

Cauliflower taco filling: 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil ½ red onion 1 head cauliflower, cut into bite-sized pieces 2 cloves garlic ¼ cup (60 mL) coconut milk 2½ Tbs taco seasoning (aim for organic, MSG-free) 12

For slaw: ½ small red cabbage, finely chopped 2 cups black kale, stems removed, thinly sliced 4 Tbs (60 mL) fresh lime juice ¼ red onion, minced ¼ cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped Salt to taste

For crema: ¾ cup (180 mL) plain Greek yogurt 1 avocado 2 Tbs (30 mL) fresh lime juice ¼ cup cilantro, finely chopped

1. Heat oil in a frying pan over medium

heat. Sauté onion until transparent, about five to seven minutes.

2. Add cauliflower and garlic. Mix in

coconut milk and taco seasoning. Cook until cauliflower is soft, about 10 to 15 minutes, stirring every few minutes.

3. Combine slaw ingredients and toss

together in a large bowl. Let ingredients marinate for at least five to 10 minutes.

4. In a food processor, combine

ingredients for the crema and process until avocado is no longer chunky.

5. Place slaw and taco filling on tortillas and top with crema.

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist and graduate student currently living and studying in New York City.

Treasure Along The Trails:

Foraging

by GWENDOLYN RICHARDS

For most of us, the idea of searching widely for food means going up and down each aisle of the grocery store, list in hand.

For some, it might even mean picking produce from raised beds in the corner of the yard or a plot at the neighbourhood garden.

Courtesy Travis Bower

For foragers though, all of Alberta offers itself as garden plot, seasonally stocked store and medicine cabinet — as long as you know where to look and how to respect what is on offer.

“Having plant knowledge for backpackers, hikers, anyone going into the woods, will make their experience way more enjoyable. It becomes more immersive,” says forager Travis Bower.

Through their work offering educational walks, foraging tours, and other activities that cast an eye to the plants that feed and heal, these experts show food is only one facet of a far larger picture.

Bower takes a circuitous route when it comes to teaching people about the edible offerings in the outdoors. People hire him for traditional archery lessons, but as he leads them to shoot bows and arrows at wooden stumps, he showcases some of the ingredients that can be found in the wild.

“Along the way, we forage and pick, and then we can have a salad or a stir fry midday,” he says. “My real goal is to get people to fall in love with the forest. You give them a reason to love the woods, and the easiest way to do that is with plant information.”

Travis Bower

Growing up in a family whose life centred around hunting and fishing, Bower has

always been comfortable finding food in the wild. He began foraging seriously about eight years ago as he took a summer to live off the grid, eating from the woods. Since then, he’s spent four summers and one winter living away from the perks of civilization — learning where to find cow parsnips, wild onions and bergamot, at one point making up about half his diet from foraged plants.

Recently, he started supplying River Café with some of those local ingredients, telling the restaurant what’s in season and responsibly foraging a small portion of what he finds to sell to the chef.

“Julie Walker (of Full Circle Adventures) taught me not to take more than 10 per cent [from a specific spot]. The issue with foraging for a restaurant is they need a lot, so I have to find a plot that has that,” he says.

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Julie Walker Courtesy Alberta Culinary Tourism

He has his spots, off trails on public lands.

Still, he says with a laugh, “it’s not a moneymaker.”

And it’s not just which plants can be eaten. In the backcountry, it’s useful to know which plants are water-based when you need to refill your canteen or what plant can help stem bleeding, he says. (Look for yarrow, which can help coagulate blood.)

Medicine is the backbone of what Brenda Holder offers through her Mahikan Trails company, based in Canmore. Born and raised in Jasper National Park, Holder grew up learning about the medicinal plants as part of her Cree and Iroquois heritage.

Starting as a hiking and guiding company that offered interpretive walks with an element of her culture, Holder realized

Bounty from a short forage in Alberta

her clients were more interested in the cultural aspects of her work. Now she offers medicine walks year-round, showcasing plants in all four seasons — even the depths of winter when food and medicine is found in the trees and under snow.

“I take the Indigenous approach; I let the plants lead the walk,” she says. “I was taught that we don’t go to look for something specific. The forest gifts us with its knowledge.”

Dandelions, the scourge of those who desire pristine lawns, are a natural source of potassium, good for cardiac and blood pressure issues. Stinging nettle is restorative to the kidneys, while their seeds can help with prostate concerns, she says.

The focus of this medicine is more holistic than a traditional “take two aspirin and call the doctor in the morning” approach. If someone has a headache, there can be many reasons, and those need to be investigated to determine which plants to use, says Holder.

Brenda Holder Courtesy Alberta Culinary Tourism

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Through Full Circle Adventures, Julie Walker educates locals, tourists and ranchers alike about the natural

eco-regions and native plants through her edible plant walks in city parks, forage outings for restaurants, and work with local distilleries for area botanicals.

Walker says it’s unclear if the growing interest in foraging stems from genuine curiosity, the strong local food movement, or the increase in availability.

Either way, she’s happy more attention is being paid to native plants. She’s also careful to show that foraging is an act of long-term thinking. Picking a small percentage of plants means there will be more later. “The convenience of grocery store shopping doesn’t apply to foraging,” she says.

While outdoor enthusiasts see the undulating foothills and spiked mountains as something to look at and travel through, Bower, Holder, and Walker appreciate much more in that landscape.

Those that seek out these three — or many of the other foragers populating Alberta — are taking steps to see more of the forest than just the trees.

Gwendolyn is a Calgary-based food writer and photographer and the author of Pucker: A Cookbook for Citrus Lovers. She is a regular contributor to several publications, writing about food trends, restaurants and recipes.

Baking With Lentils story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

Lentils are likely not the first thing one thinks of when considering baking ingredients, but they are little powerhouses full of nutrition and are easily sneaked into baked goods.

Their purée adds moisture, not to mention protein and fibre, and their presence is likely undetected even by the pickiest eaters. I’ve added lentil purée to all sorts of cakes and cookies, quick breads and muffins, but these two recipes are my favourites.

Once you get in the habit of baking with lentils, you’ll add them to just about anything!

Walnut and Date Lentil Brownies

Gluten free and vegan, these brownies also taste delicious. A little heat from ground chipotle pepper adds a pop of flavour, and the smooth, chocolatey glaze

makes them ever so pretty. Great for after school snacks, these are a tasty and healthy alternative to the buttery, rich brownies we’re so acquainted with.

cocoa powder, cinnamon, chipotle pepper, and salt. Pulse until the nuts are coarse and the cocoa is incorporated.

Scrape down the sides.

Makes 16 pieces

3. Add the lentils and dates, ½ cup at a

1¾ cups walnut pieces, toasted 1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1 tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground chipotle pepper (optional) pinch salt ½ cup cooked whole green lentils 2 cups pitted Medjool dates ½ cup (125 mL) plus 1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrup, divided 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract ¼ cup (60 mL) melted coconut oil ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder Flaky salt, optional

1. Lightly grease a 8 x 8-inch (20 x

20 cm) baking dish with canola oil, and line it with parchment paper, leaving overhanging sides.

2. In a food processor, add the walnuts,

time, scraping down the bowl of the food processor after each addition. Add 1 Tbs (15 mL) of maple syrup and the vanilla and blend until smooth. If the mixture is too dry, add water 1 Tbs (15 mL) at a time. The mixture should be soft and smooth. Pat the brownie dough into the prepared dish, using damp hands. Smooth the top evenly with your hands or an offset spatula. Place the brownies in the freezer while you prepare the ganache.

4. Whisk together the melted coconut

oil, cocoa powder, and ½ cup (125 mL) maple syrup until very smooth.

Pour the ganache evenly over the brownies. Place the brownies in the freezer for 30 minutes until set. Sprinkle with salt, if using.

5. Use a hot knife to cut the brownies into 16 pieces.

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Pumpkin Chai Lentil Muffins Makes 12

These muffins are full of pumpkin spice and everything nice – including split red lentils! Hearty and nutritious, these muffins are great to snack on as the cooler weather settles in.

2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 cup (250 mL) canned pumpkin purée ¾ cup packed brown sugar ½ cup split red lentil purée (see note) ½ cup (125 mL) canola oil ¹/³ cup (75 mL) unsweetened apple juice 2 tsp (10 mL) pure vanilla extract 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup large-flake oats 1½ tsp baking powder 1 tsp baking soda ½ tsp salt 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger ½ tsp ground cloves ½ tsp ground nutmeg ¼ tsp ground cardamom ½ cup semi-sweet chocolate chips ¼ cup pumpkin seeds

Lentils are little powerhouses full of nutrition

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place

the rack in the centre of the oven. Line a muffin pan with papers, or lightly grease with oil.

2. Whisk together the eggs, pumpkin

purée, brown sugar, lentil purée, oil, apple juice, and vanilla in a large bowl until smooth. In another large bowl, stir together the flour, oats, baking powder, baking soda, salt and spices. Stir in the chocolate chips.

3. Add these wet ingredients to

the dry ingredients and stir just until 16

incorporated. Scoop into the muffin cups so they’re about three-quarters full and sprinkle with pumpkin seeds.

4. Bake for 18–22 minutes, until

the tops spring back when lightly touched and a toothpick inserted in the centre of a muffin comes out clean.

Note: To make split red lentil purée, place cooked lentils into a food processor, or blender. For every 1 cup of lentils, add ¼ cup (60 mL) water.

Blend to make a smooth purée with a consistency resembling canned pumpkin.

5. Let the muffins cool in the pan

on a wire rack for about 5 minutes, then remove the muffins from the pan and let cool completely on the rack.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.

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Yogurt: The New Workhorse In Your Kitchen story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

A simple process of fermenting milk, adding live bacteria, plus heat and time â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and voila, you have yogurt. The changes the milk goes through during the fermentation process attribute to the distinctive, tangy taste of yogurt.

Plain, unsweetened varieties are best, since they contain minimal extra ingredients and no added sugar. Yogurt is known for containing high amounts of calcium, as well as B vitamins, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium and protein. Greek yogurt is even higher in protein, and lower in carbs and sugars, but also lower in calcium.

Flavoured or low fat yogurts are notoriously high in sugar

Yogurt is a workhorse in the kitchen.

Breakfast, lunch, dinner, dessert, drinks and snacks; yogurt is a successful ingredient in all areas.

Mango Lassi The live cultures (probiotics) in yogurt can help keep the intestines healthy.

Many store-bought yogurts have been pasteurized which can kill all those good bacterias. Check the label for names like Bifidobacteria or Lactobacillus in order to ensure you are getting the best ingredients for your gut health from your yogurt.

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Serves 2

Mango lassi is great any time of year.

The trick is to use very ripe mangos both for the best flavour and that you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to add any extra sweetener, as the ripe mango provides the sweetness. Lassi is thick and filling, and can provide a healthy snack between meals.

1 cup (250 mL) natural unsweetened yogurt 1 cup mango, very ripe, skin and pit removed To taste sweetener of choice (optional) Dash ground cardamom (optional)

Place all ingredients in a blender and combine until smooth. Add ice cubes, if desired, and combine.

Note: if your mango isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ripe enough it will not be very sweet and you will have to add a sweetener to the lassi unless you enjoy a more tart flavour. You can also use frozen mango or mango pulp.

Yogurt Masala Chicken Serves 4

4 chicken breasts or thighs, boned, and cubed To taste salt and pepper 3 tsp garam masala 2 tsp chili powder 1 tsp garlic powder 1 cup (250 mL) yogurt

1. Season chicken with salt and

Yogurt Dip

1 cup (250 mL) yogurt 2 tsp garam masala ½ tsp chili powder 2 Tbs parsley, finely chopped

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and let sit 2 hours or overnight.

Note: this is a great dip for your chicken to add extra flavour.

pepper, garam masala, chili powder, and garlic powder.

Naan Chickpea Flatbread

2. Add yogurt and combine.

½ cup (125mL) yogurt 1 tsp curry powder ½ can chickpeas, drained 12 cherry tomatoes To taste salt 1 tsp chili powder 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil 2 naan Garnish cilantro and chives

Marinate for 4 hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 375º F.

3. Line baking pan with foil and

drizzle with olive oil. Add chicken and roast for 15 minutes. Serve with your favourite side.

Note: acidity is key in a marinade to tenderize and keep the meat moist.

Since yogurt has a milder acidity level, it’s more forgiving than a vinegarbased marinade. Yogurt works best for chicken and lamb.

Serves 2

1. Combine yogurt and curry powder in a small bowl and chill 2 hours or overnight.

Chocolate Yogurt Mousse Serves 4

100g dark chocolate ¼ cup (60 mL) Greek yogurt 4 egg whites

1. Melt chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water (or carefully in the microwave).

2. Stir the yogurt into the slightly cooled melted chocolate until combined.

3. Whisk egg whites to a medium-stiff

peaks, then whisk a large spoonful into the chocolate mixture and gently fold in the remaining egg whites.

4. Pour into your serving dishes and chill for at least 4 hours before serving.

Yogurt can also be made from other animal milks and non-animal milks

2. Preheat oven to 425º F. Line a sheet pan with foil.

2. Combine chickpeas, tomatoes, salt

and chili powder in a small bowl and pour onto sheet pan. Roast for 12 - 15 minutes, and reserve.

3. Brush naan with olive oil and broil until toasted on each side.

4. Remove from oven, cover with the curry yogurt, roasted chickpeas and tomatoes, and garnish with chopped cilantro and chives.

Cinnamon Yogurt Dessert Dip

1 cup (250g) yogurt 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped 1½ tsp cinnamon 1 tsp (5 mL) honey

Combine all ingredients and chill 2 hours or overnight.

Make a platter of your favourite fruits with this dip and enjoy.

The versatile magic of yogurt is that you can add pretty much any of your favourite ingredients to it.

Add a generous mixture of fresh herbs or spices to make a dip for anything from chips to crudités. Add yogurt to your meat marinade for the famous tangy yogurt flavour and its ability to tenderize. Use as a sauce for grilled vegetables with a tablespoon of za’atar.

Yogurt can also be made from other animal milks and non-animal milks for for vegetarian or vegan eaters, or those that are allergic to dairy.

For ease of use, taste, and health benefits, yogurt has a lot to offer in your kitchen.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custommade cakes.

19

Cooking With Sherry

by MORRIS LEMIRE

The recipe I am suggesting we start with in this cooking with sherry adventure is the classic, Mediterranean Mushrooms on Toast.

It is rich, wonderful and easy. It could serve as a starter plate to a four course meal, or, as is often the case chez nous, a quick supper in front of the TV. It is vegetarian, vegan, and meat eaters will be surprised at just how flavourful and filling this dish can be.

Have you ever noticed that foods possessing umami magic are often foods that have been fermented, oxidized, fortified, and aged? Sherry fits into this category of ingredients that includes miso, certain cheeses, aged meats, kimchee, and black bean sauce. Sherry 20

goes through all four steps, each step a studied process resulting in a staple to many a chef’s pantry.

Sherry, like the family of kitchen wizards mentioned above, binds and enhances flavours in cooking without being the

obvious source of the wizardry. There are seven different types of sherry and each can be used for a particular effect, but start with a basic Amontillado, or an Oloroso like Gonzalez Byass Nutty Solera, and they will convince you what every professional chef knows; sherry in the pantry is a must.

As a reassuring note to parents who are cooking with wine for meals that will include children, alcohol evaporates at 78.4º C (173º F), a much lower temperature than water, so a good portion of the boozy stuff is lost during cooking. Not all of it boils away though.

Trace elements of complex alcohols may remain (the chemistry is complicated) but enough is lost to make the dish safe for kids. Just ask the Italians, the French, or the Spanish, whose children seem, well, fairly normal.

Mediterranean Mushrooms on Toast Serves 2-4

3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped ¼ tsp hot pepper, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, finely chopped ½ red pepper, chopped (optional) 4 cups mixed mushrooms, chopped ½ cup parsley, chopped ¼ cup (60 mL) sherry 1 cup (240 mL) beef stock (or your choice of stock) 1 tsp flour, to thicken To taste ground black pepper and salt One loaf good sourdough bread, thick cut

1. Heat olive oil in a heavy pan; add onion

3. Add in the red pepper if using, then

add in the chopped mushrooms, followed by ¼ cup of parsley, and stir everything together to avoid burning the garlic.

4. Add the sherry, stirring and mixing. As the mushrooms begin to release moisture add the stock slowly and stir.

5. Sprinkle in some flour to make a roux

or gravy, not a paste. You want to keep the liquid on the runny side, like a thick soup, so it will soak into the toast.

6. Toast your thick cut sourdough. Warm the plates, and then spoon the cooked mushrooms over the toast. Garnish with the remaining parsley and serve.

Note: Many recipes can be used in and slowly caramelize for about 12 minutes. different ways. Mushrooms on toast can be a side dish, a main plate, a party dip, 2. Add the hot pepper and stir into the or what the Spanish would call Tapas, or a onion. Add the garlic and gently stir for a Saturday night TV dinner. minute. If you are cooking for kids, you can skip the hot pepper and only add heat to The difference hinges on the size you chop your plate using hot sauce. the mushrooms; fine for the dip, thicker

for the others. Also the amount of liquid varies from one role to another. If you are making it as one plate, make it with all the liquid listed above. That way it will soak into the toast. Yummy! If you are making it as a dip you may want it a bit thicker, so cut back on the stock. You can be fancy and make garlic bread under the broiler, or if you are pressed for time, simply pop the slices into the toaster. The former, cut fancy, will serve as the shovel for the dip, but the latter is faster, and the kids won’t care one way or the other!

If you are interested in finding out more about sherry in all it’s incarnations, Culinaire Magazine’s July/August 2016 issue tackled the topic in an article by Margaux Burgess.

Look online at Culinairemagazine.com or at Issuu.com/culinairemagazine.

Want more background? Try www.sherry.wine, the official website of the sherry industry.

Morris worked in the wine trade for 25 years. A keen gardener living in Edmonton, he writes on wine, food and the environment.

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Courtesy Carmen Cheng

Spam Around The World

by CARMEN CHENG

Slices of meat, pan fried and slightly crispy on the outside, glisten from the fat being coaxed to the surface.

Bursting with salty umami, a piece of the meat is dipped into a runny egg yolk and swirled to pick up some noodles on the fork for one glorious bite.

For those who are repulsed by canned meat, it may be surprising how one bite of Spam can bring me back to fond childhood memories. Spam and eggs with instant noodles was a common weekend lunch during my childhood. As I grew older, I discovered that not everyone loved Spam as much as my family, and it was curious to me how a can of meat could be both so loved and loathed internationally.

Spam gained popularity during the second world war. With Spam's long shelf life, over 100 million cans were shipped around the world to feed the 22

“Spam Musubi” – Spam and rice wrapped in a thin sheet of seaweed – is frequently sold at restaurants and grocery stores in Hawaii. It’s a delicious and easy-to-pack snack for the beach, and hits the spot after a day of surfing.

troops. It’s no surprise that consumption of Spam is still highest in areas where American soldiers were concentrated or stationed, such as Hawaii, Guam, and the Philippines.

Spam is almost always served with a starch, whether rice or noodles, and egg

When exploring how different countries prepare and eat Spam, one trend seemed to emerge. Spam is almost always served with a starch, whether rice or noodles, and egg. Presumably the starch and runny yolk helps to tame the salty meat.

In South Korea, “Army Stew” or “Budae Jjigae” is a popular dish invented during the war using ingredients available at army bases. This rich, spicy stew is made from canned baked beans, hot dog sausages, kimchi, Spam, instant noodles, and occasionally American cheese. The best way to enjoy Army Stew is to share a big pot with a group, while it sits on a portable stove simmering on the table.

Hawaiians love their Spam, leading the world with the highest Spam consumption at 7 million cans per year.

Sure it’s laden with sodium, but Army Stew is full of umami, and is unbelievably comforting.

Courtesy Bonafide Media & PR

It’s not uncommon to see Spam creations on breakfast menus in different parts of Asia. In the Philippines, Spam is often served with a simple silog, a Filipino breakfast dish made with garlic fried rice and eggs. If you happen upon a Hong Kong style café during breakfast, you may see customers slurping down a bowl of macaroni in broth topped with slices of pan-fried Spam and a sunny side egg.

In the UK, chopped Spam is dipped into batter and fried into crispy fritters. Spam fritters are often served British style with chips and peas.

Spam...is made from only two types of meat – pork shoulder and ham Bringing this discussion closer to home, I talked with two Alberta chefs and restauranteurs for their perspective on Spam.

Lino Oliveira, co-owner and chef of Edmonton’s Sabor, recalls trying Spam for the first time when he had breakfast at his British in-law’s house. As a breakfast dish, Oliveira wasn’t fazed, but it wasn’t an ingredient that he could imagine putting on his restaurant menu.

Fast forward years later, Oliveira took a trip to Hawaii in May 2018, and during that visit had a Spam tasting with a Hawaiian chef. They cooked up different types of Spam, searing the slices in a pan. The Portuguese Chorizo Spam was Oliveira’s favourite, “It is orange in colour because of the paprika and tastes a lot like the Portuguese sausage that I know.”

When asked for his recommendations on how a Spam newbie should approach the canned meat, Oliveira says, “I would try it as a carbonara and use it instead of bacon. The richness of the egg and pasta would probably be a winner.”

Jay del Corro, Owner and Chef of Calgary’s Eats of Asia serves up dishes inspired by Asian street food. Spam is included in a few of the dishes, including the Japa Tots, Spam Musubi, and Spamsilog. Some of his customers don’t react well when they initially see Spam on the menu, but others who, like del Corro, grew up with Spam love the familiarity of those dishes.

Although del Corro understands the aversion to Spam, his philosophy is to introduce customers to flavours from his culture. “With Eats of Asia, we wanted to share our culture through food, not just feature trendy dishes. We wanted to showcase a taste of nostalgia from our past.” Over time, he has found that many customers who try a Spam item from his menu once may come back for it.

For those who are repulsed by the idea of eating “mystery meat”, I wonder how many would change their perceptions of Spam if they knew it was made from only two types of meat – pork shoulder and ham. In the meantime I will continue to eat my Spam and eggs, as happily as I did when I was a child.

Carmen Cheng comes from a long line of food lovers and notorious over-orderers. She loves traveling, learning about different cuisines, and sharing her food adventures on social media.

Alberta’s Finest Drink Lists

by TOM FIRTH and LINDA GARSON with STEPHANIE ARSENAULT, TANNIS BAKER, and ALITA BROWN

The 2018 edition of Alberta’s Finest Drink List was only our second year, and we were floored by the outstanding response.

We saw nearly 50 percent growth this year, involving us in two very full days poring over wine, beer, and spirit lists from across the province.

24

Not only did we get to see many classic lists from established or familiar venues, but also quite a few that were new to us, or only barely known. We were surprised how many lists were really very good.

Our judges score each list independently, and most importantly, evaluate consistently. This isn’t about who they know or like, but about the list on the table – does it have breadth or depth, is it interesting or noteworthy, does it seem approachable or manageable – or

was only the barest attention paid to offerings? We saw plenty at each end of the spectrum.

And that’s what these awards are all about. Finding great lists that showcase all the talented sommeliers and buyers around the province who are sourcing varied and exciting lists that are well

curated, but also manage to fit the venue, and encourage patrons to try something new, while still incorporating some classics.

A special thank you to everyone who submitted their lists, and also to Hotel Arts for being the perfect venue for our two hectic days of judging. Thanks

too to the Italian Trade Commission for collaborating on our new category of Best Italian List, and to our Presenting Sponsor, ATB Financial, who also sponsor our Best Alberta Content award, that celebrates those great restaurants and venues supporting the bounty of local Alberta beers, wines, and spirits being made right here at home.

Our Judges

Linda Garson

Co-Chair, Editor in Chief, Culinaire Magazine As the creator of Vine & Dine, Linda has spent more time than most since 2005 eating, drinking, and studying menus and wine lists. Running her educational pairing program for so long has given her such an appreciation of Alberta’s vibrant culinary scene, that she launched Culinaire Magazine in 2012 to celebrate the best our province has to offer in the world of food and beverages.

Tom Firth

Co-Chair, Drinks Editor, Culinaire Magazine A 20+ year veteran of the beverage industry, Tom spent several years retailing for two of the best wine stores in the province before moving to the journalism side of a wine bottle. Drinks Editor for Culinaire magazine, and Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards, he’s spent many a day poring over wine lists with an eye for exciting bottles that won’t wreck the budget.

Tannis Baker

With 20 years in food and wine marketing, from leading Western Canada’s portfolio for Brown Forman Beverages, to Executive Director at Alberta Culinary Tourism, where she earned a national food tourism marketing award (TIAC) and Venture Magazine’s Most influential Albertans, Tannis brings knowledge, passion, and expertise to the table. Today she is a partner at Food Tourism Strategies, a leader in culinary development and marketing.

Alita Brown

An avid lover of wine and spirits for over 35 years, Alita spent 15 years in

the industry before joining SAIT in the Hospitality Management program as an instructor. Having spent years creating and costing lists, judging is a great way to see what the competition is doing.

To continue with her wine and spirit knowledge and practice, Alita is finishing the W.S.E.T. diploma course.

Stephanie Arsenault

Writer, photographer, and the author behind globaldish.ca, Stephanie is a lover of all things food, drink, and travel. While sometimes an elusive creature, trotting the globe, Stephanie can typically be found on a patio in the sunshine with a pint of beer or a glass of wine in hand.

25

Best Overall List With more than three-quarters of all entries vying for a place on this list, competition is tough, which makes it all the more meaningful for our winners.

We’re not just looking for the biggest list in the province, but for breadth across a range of styles, countries, and prices to accommodate all tastes and budgets, and we’re thrilled to see new names appearing here. It’s a reminder to count our blessings that we live in a province with such an abundance of choice, as well as the talented sommeliers and restaurateurs that recognize and embrace it. You can’t help but be impressed by these lists! Linda Garson

Vintage Chophouse

Eden

1888 Chop House

DIAMOND AWARD The Post Hotel & Spa 200 Pipestone Road, Lake Louise posthotel.com

GOLD AWARD Eden 300 Mountain Avenue, Banff rimrockresort.com

Royale

Teatro 200 8 Avenue SE, Calgary teatro.ca River Café 25 Prince’s Island Park SW, Calgary river-cafe.com Vintage Chophouse 320 11 Avenue SW, Calgary vintagechophouse.com

Lake House

Teatro

The Wine Room

1888 Chop House Fairmont Banff Springs, 405 Spray Avenue, Banff 1888chophouse.com Royale 730 17 Avenue SW, Calgary royaleyyc.ca

Cilantro 338 17 Avenue SW, Calgary cilantrocalgary.com

Lake House 747 Lake Bonavista Drive SE, Calgary lakehousecalgary.com

The Wine Room 10525 Jasper Avenue, Edmonton thewineroom.ca

26

River Café

Best Thematic List I think it takes a lot of guts to come up with a themed list. Not only do you have to find the best possible bottles to stock your bar, but you have to narrow your options which might alienate some patrons, or even worse, bore them…. Hats off to Anejo for their Diamond Award repeat performance proving that folks are thirsty for good tequila! Tom Firth

Ricardo’s Hideaway

Ricardo’s Hideaway (Rum) 1530 5 Street SW, Calgary ricardoshideaway.ca Frenchie Wine Bar (French Wine) 618 17 Avenue SW, Calgary frenchieyyc.com

ANEJO Restaurant

DIAMOND AWARD ANEJO Restaurant (Tequila) 2, 2116 4 Street SW, Calgary anejo.ca

Native Tongues Taqueria (Mezcal) 235 12 Avenue SW, Calgary nativetongues.ca Frenchie Wine Bar

GOLD AWARD The Derrick Gin Mill & Kitchen (Gin) 103, 620 8 Avenue SW, Calgary thederrickyyc.com Untitled Champagne Lounge (Champagne) 104, 620 8 Avenue SW, Calgary untitledyyc.com

Untitled Champagne Lounge Courtesy Michael Trudeau Photography

The Derrick Gin Mill & Kitchen

Native Tongues Taqueria

Best Italian List

Pulcinella

(Presented by the Italian Trade Commission) It’s our first year for this prestigious award, and we were thrilled to see so many entries from both Italian restaurants and Canadian restaurants across the province. We know people in Alberta love everything Italian, and the quality of the wine lists entered in this category proves that we are well rewarded with exciting choices of wines, and also spirits too, from every region of the country. It was a hard-fought category, so bravo to our winners! Linda Garson

DIAMOND AWARD Bonterra Trattoria 1016 8 Street SW, Calgary bonterra.ca

Cardinale 401 12 Avenue SE, Calgary cardinale.ca

GOLD AWARD

Cibo Bistro 11244 104 Avenue, Edmonton cibobistro.com

River Café 25 Prince’s Island Park SW, Calgary river-cafe.com Pulcinella 1147 Kensington Crescent NW, Calgary pulcinella.ca

Maple Leaf Grill 137 Banff Avenue, Banff banffmapleleaf.com

Cardinale

Cibo Bistro Courtesy Curtis Comeau

Bonterra Trattoria 28

Maple Leaf Grill

Best Medium List

DIAMOND AWARD

The medium list category is intended to focus on list that have around 25- 50 offerings, a list that isn’t too small, but also not distressingly large. This year’s winners do a terrific job providing a range of wines (and grapes) from at home and around the world at differing price points.

A challenging feat indeed! Calgary’s Deane house earned the Diamond award with a list that should keep wine-loving patrons happy. Congratulations to all the winners! Alita Brown

Deane House 806 9 Avenue SE, Calgary deanehouse.com

Deane House

Butternut Tree 9707 110 Street NW, Edmonton thebutternuttree.ca Charbar 618 Confluence Way SE, Calgary charbar.ca

GOLD AWARD

Highwood Dining Room Provision Southern Alberta Institute of Technology 340 13 Avenue SW, Calgary John Ware, 1301 – 16 Avenue NW, provisionyyc.ca Calgary, sait.ca/highwood Butternut Tree

Highwood Dining Room

Provision

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Best by the Glass Program

Best Vertical Selection

Posto Pizzeria & Bar

A good by-the-glass list means a lot when going out for a bite. After all, sometimes you’re not with a split-a-bottle kind of group. Or maybe you can’t decide what you’re in the mood for. Regardless of the situation, it’s mighty nice to have options, and Calgary’s Vin Room (all three locations) defies any expectations one may have. With four different serving formats – from a taste to a bottle, and everything in between – and a selection of wines from around the world, there is absolutely something for everyone. Stephanie Arsenault

A lot of work goes into building a good vertical wine list. Done well, it represents extensive knowledge of wine regions by vintage, combined with a long-term financial investment. If you are looking for that specific year for a birthday, anniversary or any other reason, or just want to pore over these extensive lists, we have identified the local spots where you may find that special gem from past years. Tannis Baker

DIAMOND AWARD (TIE)

Eden 300 Mountain Avenue, Banff rimrockresort.com

Vin Room Mission 2310 4 Street SW, Calgary vinroom.com Vin Room West 3102, 8561 8A Avenue SW, Calgary vinroom.com Vin Room YYC Airport Post Security, International Departures, Calgary International Airport vinroom.com

DIAMOND AWARD

GOLD AWARD Posto Pizzeria & Bar 1014 8 Street SW, Calgary posto.ca Pulcinella 1147 Kensington Crescent NW, Calgary pulcinella.ca Cibo 17th Ave 1012 17 Avenue SW, Calgary cibocalgary.com Chuck’s Steakhouse 101 Banff Avenue, Banff chuckssteakhouse.ca

Vin Room Mission

GOLD AWARD Teatro 200, 8 Avenue SE, Calgary teatro.ca Vintage Chophouse 320 11 Avenue SW, Calgary vintagechophouse.com The Wine Room 10525 Jasper Avenue, Edmonton thewineroom.ca

Cibo 17th Ave

Vin Room West Chuck’s Steakhouse

Vin Room YYC Airport 30

Vintage Chophouse

Best Small List

Hayloft

I love this category, and quite honestly, I’m pretty ruthless with what I am looking for in a great small list. It’s a list that really only has a handful or so of offerings, but it has to grab and hold your attention with some familiar bottles, and shine with exciting, well-curated bottles, well-suited to the menu or locale. Hats off to all of this year’s winners, you’ve done something special for sure.

Tom Firth

DIAMOND AWARD Hayloft 5101 – 403 Mackenzie Way SW, Airdrie haylofton8th.com

GOLD AWARD Elbow Room 802 49 Avenue SW, Calgary elbowroombritannia.ca MARKET

MARKET 718 17 Avenue SW Calgary marketcalgary.ca Vero Bistro Moderne 209 10 Street NW, Calgary verobistro.ca

Elbow Room

Bread and Circus Trattoria 616 17 Avenue SW, Calgary breadandcircusyyc.com Calcutta Cricket Club 340 17 Avenue SW, Calgary calcuttacricketclub.com Brasserie Kensington 1131 Kensington Road NW, Calgary brasseriekensington.com

Calcutta Cricket Club

Bread and Circus Trattoria Vero Bistro

31

Best Beer List

Best Spirits List

There’s no denying that Alberta is going through an incredible craft beer boom, and the tap lists around the province are certainly reflecting that. Bottlescrew Bill’s, which has been around since 1985, has a beer list that boasts over 300 different brews from around the world, ensuring there’s an option for even the pickiest (or most curious) of palates.

Stephanie Arsenault

A well-constructed spirits list is the gateway to a myriad of tastes and cocktail possibilities. Banff’s Park Distillery took the top award for a selection that demonstrated awesome creativity and inclusivity on their list. The selection of top shelf spirits, along with their own craft-made gin and spirit flights, plus the Alberta-named cocktails, all well priced, are well worth visiting this fall. Alita Brown

Northern Chicken Posto Pizzeria & Bar

DIAMOND AWARD Bottlescrew Bill’s Pub 140 10 Avenue SW, Calgary bottlescrewbill.com

GOLD AWARD Cilantro and Chive 5021 50 Street, Lacombe cilantroandchive.ca Craft Beer Market 345 10 Avenue SW, Calgary craftbeermarket.ca

Park Distillery

Northern Chicken 10704 124 Street, Edmonton northchickenyeg.com Posto Pizzeria & Bar 1014 8 Street SW, Calgary posto.ca

Craft Edmonton 10013 101a Avenue, Rice Howard Way, Edmonton craftbeermarket.ca/edmonton

Azuridge Estate Hotel 178057 272 Street, Foothills azuridgehotel.com

Iron Goat Pub & Grill 703 Benchlands Trail, Canmore irongoat.ca

Kawa Espresso Bar 1333 8 Street SW, Calgary kawacalgary.ca

Wurst 2437 4 Street SW, Calgary wurst.ca

DIAMOND AWARD Park Distillery 219 Banff Avenue, Banff parkdistillery.com

GOLD AWARD Modern Steak 107 10A Street NW, Calgary modernsteak.ca

Azuridge Estate Hotel Wurst

32

Best Bourbon or Whisk(e)y List

Moose’s Nook

The Guild 200 8 Avenue SW, Calgary theguildrestaurant.com

The growth of brown spirits has been on the rise for years, and so has the size and scope of lists featuring whiskey and bourbon. We were particularly delighted to see the educational slant that some of the lists are taking, and new restaurants dedicating time and effort to grow them. Leading the faithful charge is the legendary Buchanan’s; with many new delightful spots joining the list for the first time. Be brave and explore, and you will find many bartenders eager to expand your knowledge of this exciting category. Tannis Baker

Moose’s Nook Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, Jasper fairmont.com/jasper The Nash & Off Cut Bar 925 11 Street SE, Calgary thenashyyc.com NOtaBLE 4611 Bowness Road NW, Calgary notabletherestaurant.ca The Nash & Off Cut Bar

The Bothy Wine and Whisky Bar

The Bothy Wine and Whisky Bar 5482 Calgary Trail, Edmonton thebothy.ca Hayden Block Smoke & Whiskey 1136 Kensington Road NW, Calgary haydenblockyyc.com

DIAMOND AWARD

Bourbon Room 341b 10 Avenue SW, Calgary bourbonroom.ca

Buchanan’s 738 3 Avenue SW, Calgary buchanans.ca

GOLD AWARD

Murrieta’s 200 – 808 1st Street SW, Calgary murrietas.ca

ONE18 Empire 820 Centre Street S, Calgary one18empire.com

Cleaver 524 17 Avenue SW, Calgary cleavercalgary.com

ONE18 Empire

Belle Southern Kitchen 1919 4th Street SW, Calgary bellebbq.com

NOtaBLE

Murrieta’s

Belle Southern Kitchen 33

Best Alberta Content

(Presented by ATB Financial) My mind is continually blown by how far we’ve come. The craft brewing and distilling movement has been happening for a little while now, but in Alberta, it’s only been since 2013 when production minimums for producers were removed.

In a short few years, our craft industry has exploded, and the quality is world class – some of the finest drinks I’ve had in the past few years have been Albertamade. Perhaps that is why we saw so many Alberta offerings on all the lists we evaluated. Not only are they locally made, but they are damn good.

Tom Firth

Bottlescrew Bill’s Pub Butternut Tree

DIAMOND AWARD Bottlescrew Bill’s Pub 140 10 Avenue SW, Calgary, bottlescrewbill.com Cilantro and Chive 5021 50 Street, Lacombe cilantroandchive.ca

Cilantro and Chive 34

Craft Beer Market

GOLD AWARD Butternut Tree 9707 110 Street NW, Edmonton thebutternuttree.ca Park Distillery 219 Banff Avenue, Banff parkdistillery.com

Craft Beer Market 345 10 Avenue SW, Calgary craftbeermarket.ca Rge Rd 10643 123 Street NW, Edmonton rgerd.ca

Rge Rd

Back To School: Learning Beer Terms

by DAVID NUTTALL

So, you’ve decided you like beer. This epiphany may have materialized recently, or perhaps you figured it out 40 plus years ago. Either way, you’ve probably noticed the beer world has its own lingo, which can be confusing to the neophyte.

There is a whole vernacular that has arisen in recent years, mostly since the craft beer movement began about 30 years ago. Many of these are applicable to the Alberta brewing scene, so you may have heard these terms before, but didn’t know exactly what they were referring to. If that is the case, hopefully some answers may lie below.

Craft Beer/Brewing – Although a rather generic term, many people know that “craft” means small and the brewery probably uses natural ingredients. That is correct, but the actual definition changes for different jurisdictions (and over time), mostly due to taxation purposes.

In Alberta, to be a member of the Small Brewers Association (ASBA), breweries must have their head office in Alberta with no more than 25% of the ownership being held by outside industry members. Their production cannot exceed 400,000 hectolitres annually (1 hectolitre = 100 litres), and least 90% of their product must be brewed in the province.

Barrels – This means two things in brewing. One is the wooden container in the brewery utilized to age beer.

The other is a measurement of volume equal to 117 litres, and is a term commonly used in North America.

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barrels (17,550 hectolitres) per year.

However, in Alberta, to qualify for the Alberta Small Brewers Development Program grant (currently under review at time of writing), breweries must sell less than 300,000 hectolitres annually.

Regional Brewery – Loosely defined as a brewery that is big enough to sell beer in multiple provinces. Next up, the National/Multinational Brewery, where the beer goes global. You know who they are.

A standard keg is half a barrel, about 58.7 L, although 50 L kegs are common in craft brewing. A brewery with a 20-barrel brewhouse can make over 2,000 litres of beer at a time. The number of times they brew a year will determine their annual production.

Breweries are stratified by their annual production, which is reflected in their taxation level.

Nanobrewery – It has no set definition, but it is the smallest brewery. Often operated by only one or two people, brewing very small batches.

Microbrewery – Bigger than a nanobrewery, but smaller than a regional brewery. Coined in the 1970s, it is often defined as brewing less than 15,000

Brewpub – In Alberta, it means two things. The brewery sells a large proportion (usually more than 25%) of its beer on-site at its brewery. More importantly, it also has a full restaurant license (called Class A), as opposed to a simple tasting room, which allows it to sell other breweries’ beer as well as wine, spirits, and, of course, food.

Gypsy Brewery – A brewery without a home. Often a start-up operation that has not yet found a permanent location. They book tank time at various breweries and brew their recipes there, distributing them under their name.

Contract Brewing – Similar to gypsy brewing without the nomadism. Again, a new, homeless, brewery will contract a single brewery to manufacture its product until they get their own

location. In both cases above, this may last for a few months, or several years.

Collaboration/Unity Brew – A beer brewed between two or more breweries.

Recipes are often developed in tandem (over a few beers perhaps?) and brewed at one of the breweries, sometimes with multiple brewery names on the label.

Wild and Sour Beers – Once upon a time, all beers were wild. These beer categories were nonexistent in Alberta only a couple of years ago. Since then, the number of imports and locally brewed versions have exploded. Essentially both are created by intentionally inoculating the beer with bacteria or wild yeast. This can produce a tart and slightly acidic flavour, although not all wilds are sour.

Sours can be difficult to create consistently, so they are often aged (bacteria also lie in the wood of the barrels) and then blended. Kettle sours are produced in the boil kettle, so are quicker, easier, and cheaper to make.

Cask Conditioned Beer – Once upon a time, all beers came from a cask. It was unfiltered, unpasteurized, contained live yeast and natural levels of CO2, so it was still maturing (secondary fermentation) in the cask. This produced what is now called real ale, and it is strikingly different than beer from a keg.

With only a small number of taps in the province able to serve this style of beer regularly, you may get to try some at beer festivals or special events. The uniqueness of each cask also allows the brewer to get creative, by taking a core beer and tweaking it to their whimsy.

Session Ales – The term came from old English law that allowed pubs to only open during certain hours of the day (sessions), usually around lunch and supper, favouring low alcohol beers that could be consumed quickly, without too much impairment.

The term is used today to describe lower alcohol beers (often <5% ABV), which taste like regular beers, instead of the watered down “light” variants.

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Making The Case For Summertime Memories

by TOM FIRTH

It’s some strange holdover that has been conditioned into my soul after many years of schooling, that the “new” year starts in September, while the calendar year starts in January.

Summer vacation is over, holiday plans are wrapped up, the weather starts getting colder, and it’s back to school for the kids.

But fret not, the weather is still nice for a few weeks yet, and why not fondly recall your vacation days with a few highly recommended British Columbia wines?

A few short hours away, the Okanagan Valley is the closest wine region to us, and even better, it’s chockablock with delicious, premium wines, from robust blends to aromatic whites.

So keep the barbecue ready, leave the deck chairs or patio set out, and toast the waning days of summer in style!

Black Hills 2016 Nota Bene Okanagan Valley, British Columbia Take note! This really is one of the marquis wine offerings of the Okanagan Valley. I tried this in the barrel some months ago and eagerly anticipated this bottle. Mostly cabernet sauvignon with merlot and about 14.5 percent cabernet franc; cedar and dill lead the savoury nose with black fruit aplenty. Structure, power, and tight tannins tie it all together, and it makes for a hearty glass now, but will develop well in the cellar.

CSPC +708073 $95

Laughing Stock 2016 Blind Trust Okanagan Valley, British Columbia One of the great, and iconic wines of the Okanagan Valley, the Blind Trust is a meritage-style blend based around merlot. Pulling the cork, it’s a treat for the senses with deep field berry fruits; loamy, earthy characters; smoke; and spice. Far too young at the moment, this will continue to deliver for 10+ years no problem.

CSPC +805256 $39

Wild Goose 2017 Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Courtesy Noble Ridge Vineyards 38

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the contributing Drinks Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine

Gewürztraminer is pretty awesome, sure, some are a little… goopy, but a great one is clean and floral, with lychee and spice, and perhaps a little mandarin orange. The 2017 from Wild Goose was the white wine trophy winner at the All Canadian Wine Championships this year, and it is completely deserving of that award. Pair with Asian-styled cuisine, or light, healthy snacks.

CSPC +414748 $24

CedarCreek 2013 “Platinum” Desert Ridge Meritage Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Bench 1775 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Play 2016 Viognier Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Sauvignon blanc might not quite be I really like this wine, absolutely packed synonymous with the Okanagan, but with subtle layers lurking underneath all it’s certainly not a grape to overlook. those expressive berry fruits and cedar Bright citrus aromas with very mild tones. Spice and earth, berry preserves grassy and olive notes on the nose. and a hot wind bringing sage and chaparral On the palate, mineral-laden and to the fore. Just as good on the palate crisp from start to finish with a little (though a lot of cabernet sauvignon comes juicy melon character. Would suit any through), it’s calling out to skirt steaks, number of grilled or fried prime rib, or really, really good cheese. seafood dishes.

CSPC +770834 $37 CSPC +652180 $25

Viognier isn’t a common grape anywhere, but it’s always a treat to see it made right. Look for near over the top intense peach and apricot fruits with mild nuttiness, a bit of vanilla coupled with a rich, almost creamy mouthfeel. A serious wine for serious times, it will pair well with a late night on the deck or patio. Pair with anything that packs a lot of flavour.

CSPC +778441 $25

Hester Creek 2017 Pinot Blanc Golden Mile Bench, British Columbia

Calliope 2016 Riesling Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Hillside 2017 Muscat Ottonel Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Once touted as the grape we should all be drinking from the Okanagan, pinot blanc failed to capture the wine drinker’s attention. That was a shame...

Hester Creek’s pinot blanc is loaded from top to bottom with peach and pear fruits, a healthy dose of apple, and plenty of floral aromas. A wonderful summer sipper.

CSCP +749773 $19-21

No other wine screams out to be enjoyed on a patio quite like riesling. Though it’s great year round, a well-chilled riesling with all that flint-driven mineral, pressed lime, green apple, and so much more is a treasure. Calliope’s is quite dry and sleek with steely acids. No food required, but try matching with grilled pork, or seared seafoods.

CSPC +175984 $22

One of my favourites from Hillside, their muscat ottonel is quite the uncommon grape. Rife with lemon and citrus rind aromas, a touch of spice, and slightly lifted alcohol. On the palate it's off-dry, but very well balanced by acids. Crisp, redolent of summer fruits and flowers, I dare you not to enjoy this. Pair with Asian inspired cuisine, or salty snacks….

CSPC +434803 $25

Tantalus 2015 Juveniles Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Noble Ridge 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Hillside 2015 Merlot-Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A pale, youthful, and simply lovely expression of pinot noir, it’s a perfect reminder that although Tantalus is known for their kick-ass rieslings, they aren’t any sort of one-trick pony. Lean fruits leaning towards tartness with dried vegetable leaf and the right amount of spice, it’s going to be a star at the table too. Pair with duck or other game birds, smoked charcuterie, or homemade burgers.

CSPC +791930 about $25

Noble Ridge makes a number of fantastic wines (including a fantastic sparkling wine), but I’m very glad to finally taste their reserve line. The pinot noir showcases red berry fruits with mild earthiness and floral tones. Silky-smooth on the palate, the mid-weight tannins and tart acids would really shine with some duck confit.

CSPC +721926 About $45

Two of my favourite BC grapes in one bottle? Sign me up! Plush, merlot fruits evoking plum and cherries, with an invigorating current of spice and tobacco lead the nose. Quite full flavoured, the balance is exceptional, but almost more importantly, it will work with a number of dishes too. But think beef, and maybe think BBQ too.

CSPC +528935 $22 39

September Spirits

by TOM FIRTH and LINDA GARSON

September is a wonderful time of year. Here in Alberta, we typically have some of the finest autumns around.

The days are still nice and warm, and the evenings start to get a little cooler.

This month, we’ve got you covered with some bourbons for those cool evenings, and a few gins for those fleeting, warmer days. Not to be outdone, a lovely rum recently caught our attention, and whether you like yours neat or in a summery cocktail, that's your call.

El Dorado 8 Year Old Demerara Rum

Guyana I don’t drink a lot of rum, but when I do, I love those that are rich and smooth – not only for sipping, but also mixing. Plenty of toffee and orange peel with a lot of dark molasses character on the finish, this is at home in a glass neat or with some rocks, or in a variety of blenderstyle drinks. Well, I like piña coladas… umbrella optional.

CSPC +767659 $35

Rebel Yell Kentucky Straight Bourbon

United States When it comes to rebel yells, I much prefer the straight bourbon over Billy Idol’s chart-topper. With citrus and leather, caramel, and old canvas on the nose, and a sharp-edged vanilla bean palate, it’s quite the treat. It’s a classic, bringing plenty of bourbon punch into your glass. Mix into an old fashioned or mint julep this summer.

CSPC +711374 $36

Duncan Taylor Indian Summer Saffron Infused Gin

Scotland Weighing in at a pretty potent 46 percent, it’s got some fire on the nose, but it balances well with the saffron 40

infusion and juniper-laden aromatics leading to a fairly spicy finish. Would work very nicely in a variety of cocktails or mixed drinks that might need a little je ne sais quoi.

CSPC +795267 $43

Rebecca Creek Whiskey

Texas, United States From San Antonio in Texas, this easy drinking blend of aged bourbons opens with sweet caramel notes, which lead to rounded flavours of vanilla with a touch of leather. It’s silky smooth, and ideal for a simple Old Fashioned – and would be cool in your coffee too!

CSPC +781470 $66

The Shed Distillery Drumshanbo Gunpowder Gin

Ireland I couldn’t wait to taste this gin; so intriguing with a ribbed blue glass bottle and Chinese writing, and handcrafted in Drumshanbo, a small town in the north of Ireland.

Gunpowder tea can be powerful stuff, but here it’s restrained, and blends well with the other botanicals for a rather unusual, delicately exotic flavour – great for martinis!

CSPC +795740 $58

Strathcona Spirits Barrel Aged Gin

Edmonton, Alberta Wow – smoke ‘n oak, with a burst of fresh citrus, leap out of the glass. The cocktails you’d make with this gin that’s been peacefully resting in virgin American white oak barrels, would be more whiskey-style than gin, and I love to imagine the distillers roaming the Badlands for juniper, and night raids on the streets of Edmonton for seaberry!

CSPC +800202 $58

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Open That Bottle story by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

“I talk quite a bit with my students about where they’re at, and what opportunities are going to come their way at different stages of their life,” says Jan Hansen, Culinary Instructor at SAIT. And he should know, having worked his way from the bottom of the ladder to the top!

Hansen’s parents came separately from Denmark to Canada, and met at Jasper Park Lodge (JPL) in the mid ‘60s, where his mom was a hairdresser and his dad a barber. “They didn’t know each other but they fell in love at Jasper Park,” he says. “I came along, and we moved to Edmonton.”

At school Hansen took food prep for the credits. “I could get 12 credits in three courses, and then realised that I really enjoyed what I was doing, and was pretty good at it,” he laughs.

He took NAIT’s professional cooking course, also working at JPL where he had worked his school summers; achieved his red seal certification, and cooked in various restaurants before traveling and living in Denmark for two years. Hansen is proud that he can still speak the language.

A job at a private club followed on his return, where Hansen was introduced to the Chaines de Rotisserie, with which he is still very involved, winning their young chef competition in 1991. His private club experience earned him a position at Calgary Golf and Country Club, and 42

then as executive chef at Glencoe Golf and Country Club.

“I have zero regrets in my life for anything I have done, both personally and workwise, but looking back now, I almost wish I hadn’t taken that position at 28 (years),” Hansen says. “My whole life changed; no longer was it about cooking and food, it became management and dealing with people. I don’t think I gave that much thought at that time.”

It was a 10-year commitment, and Hansen says he had a lot of fun, but then he volunteered to help with ideas for a new venture at Heritage Park – Gasoline Alley concept kitchen – and subsequently became executive chef there in 2005.

“I got to spend over $1 million on equipment and the flow, and I’m really proud of that kitchen,” he says. “It was one of my best experiences, and I still keep in touch with the team. We took our F & B program from about $3 million to just over $8 million by having the new space, and it was a ton of fun. I did 10 years at the Park, which is unheard of in this industry.”

Nearing 50, Hansen felt he had one more thing in him, and took

over at Hotel Arts when Duncan Ly left, planning another 10-year stint. But SAIT came knocking on the door for the second time.

“I thought I’d better go, they’re probably not going to knock a third time,” he says.

“I thought what a great way to give back; mentorship and teaching, and getting the next generation ready for industry – and that’s where I am now, loving every minute of it.”

What bottle is Hansen saving for a special occasion?

He explains that the family were travelling from Paris to the south of France, and fell in love with the gas stations along the way. ”They had great pastries, and great sandwiches and cheese, and they had wine stores in them too,” he says. “So we’d stop and get some wine, and this was one of the better ones that we picked up.”

He has a bottle of 2007 Lois Jadot Corton Pougets from Burgundy.

“It’s a grand cru, and should be drinking well in another four years, and that will be our 20th wedding anniversary, so maybe that will be a good time to open it,” Hansen smiles at the thought.

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