ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 8 NO.4 :: SEPTEMBER 2019
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ALBERTA’S FINEST DRINKS LISTS AWARDS!
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The Art of The Sandwich
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Microgreens | Alberta Hops | Sheet Pan Suppers | Galettes Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
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VOLUME 8 / ISSUE #4 SEPTEMBER 2019
Features 26
The New Craft Industry There was a gap in the market for a millennial-inspired, innovative honey product…until Aja Horsley dreamed up Drizzle Honey. by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
28
The 2019 Alberta’s Finest Drinks Lists Awards We’re highlighting the best drinks lists in Alberta! by Renée Delorme, Tom Firth, Linda Garson, and Laurie MacKay
42 Mighty Microgreens …are sprouting up all over Alberta, and this nutrient-rich, local crop only takes around ten days from planting to harvesting. by Leilani Olynik
Departments 10 Cheese Glorious Cheese Cheese for a mountain getaway by Daniel Bontje
44 September Spirits …last chance to enjoy outdoors by Tom Firth and Linda Garson
20 Galettes… Easier than pie by Natalie Findlay
46 Making The Case In search of the endless summer by Tom Firth
22 Alberta’s Newest Agribusiness 50 Open That Bottle 18 Alberta farms are now growing hops! Karen Anderson of Alberta by David Nuttall Food Tours by Linda Garson 24 Your New Best Friend: Sheet pan suppers by Renée Kohlman
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Salutes and Shout Outs
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Off The Menu – Model Milk’s Fricassee of Calamari
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Chefs’ Tips and Tricks: The Art of the Sandwich
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Spice It Up: Hummus
48 Etcetera...
On the Cover: We’re back to school and routine again, which can mean dull, desk-bound lunches – but Nick Yee, of Calgary’s Holy Grill, has other ideas. His creative paninis know no boundaries. Thanks very much to Nick for his panini adorning our cover, and to Dong Kim for capturing it so crisply; it makes us drool!
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019 3
Letter From The Editor
We’re back to school and back to our desks; doesn’t the summer go quickly? I hope it was a good one for you. Did you manage to get out and meet some of our food growers and producers for Open Farm Days? There were so many
opportunities and events this summer, it’s great to see how Alberta has really embraced farm visits and farm to table dinners.
and to thank Q Haute Cuisine, our hosts for the judging days, who made us so welcome and comfortable – and fed us such delicious food! Do check out the results starting on page 28.
We always think summer will be relaxing for the Culinaire team, and while there’s no pressure of print deadlines, we dive into our two major awards programs – Alberta’s Finest Drinks Lists and the Alberta Beverage Awards.
No sooner had we finalised the results of Alberta’s Finest Drinks Lists than it was time to set up for our 7th Alberta Beverage Awards – and it was heartening to see what a bumper year it was for entries of wine, beer, spirits, mixers and coolers. It makes it all the more meaningful for the winners with such stiff competition, and we’re already excited for the results in our October issue.
It was our third edition of our Finest Drinks Lists Awards and we were thrilled to see so many entries for the ten categories – and such high quality entries too. We consider it an important part of the dining experience, and our aim is to highlight establishments that have taken time and care over their drinks offerings, and put as much thought into them as their food menus. I’d like to thank all the restaurants, bars, hotels, and pubs that entered their lists,
And talk about excitement, we’re gearing up right now for our fourth Edmonton Treasure Hunt, and I can’t wait to see you all there. This year will see our first Vine & Dine in Edmonton, the night before the hunt. Hope to see you there too! Cheers Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief
CELEBRATING EST.
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SERVING ALBERTANS
Brown bag lunches don’t have to be bland and boring!
Put some magic in midday meals this fall. We have recipes to inspire and all the ingredients you’ll need to make lunch worth looking forward to!
Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
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ALBERTA | FOOD & DRINK | RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor: Daniel Bontje web@culinairemagazine.ca Sales and Marketing: Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca For Edmonton: Lorraine Shulba 780-919-9627 lorraine@culinairemagazine.ca
Our Contributors < Anna Brooks
Anna Brooks is an award-winning Calgary journalist currently studying for a Masters degree in New York City. She has travelled and written in Thailand, Africa and India, and has been published in Popular Science, the New York Post, Culinaire Magazine, and the Calgary Herald. The tireless life of a writer means Anna loves a good fine dining experience when she can afford it. Follow her on Twitter @Anna_Brooksie
Design: Little Blue Bug Studios Edmonton Contributors: Anna Brooks Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Renée Delorme Natalie Findlay Renée Kohlman Mallory Frayn Dong Kim Laurie MacKay David Nuttall Leilani Olynik
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
< Daniel Bontje
Coming from a background in psychology, Dan has always been passionate about how food and drink tastes, and also how it makes us feel and connect with others. Eager to try new things, Dan balances his love of cooking with his love of eating, and can be found scouring the city for new recipes and restaurants to share. Whether baking a wedding cake, hosting a pop up dinner party or enjoying a glass with friends, Dan is always thinking about food!
< Natalie Findlay
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
After a brief period with an Easy Bake Oven, Natalie’s mom allowed her to use the big girl’s oven and set her on the course for a life filled with delicious outcomes. Since graduating from Le Cordon Bleu, Natalie has worked in restaurants, hotels, bakeries, and her own business. Currently, Natalie is a freelance writer, recipe developer, and photographer, and is loving every minute of it.
All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
Salutes And Shout Outs… Four Alberta restaurants have been nominated for Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2019. Congrats go to Edmonton’s Partake, Calgary’s Le Petit Boeuf and Lulu Bar, and The Sensory in Canmore! And to Mr. Chen’s, who were the only winner east of Toronto in Canadian Interiors Magazine Best Of Canada design awards for the hospitality sector!
completely new approach from Executive Chef Geoffrey Miller, now featuring local producers, absolutely delicious shared plates and veggie options too! The huge bar is still there but now there’s an additional lounge area and harvest tables to complete the restaurant. Beautifully done!
More congrats go to Vin Room YYC Airport who have won the Global Airport Wine Bar of the Year. It’s always our last stop before zipping off overseas! And finally to Cococo Chocolatiers, who have unleashed a fourth kind of ‘chocolate’ – ruby couverture! A unique process allows the natural pigment of the ruby cocoa bean to show, and it’s perfect paired with cheese… or wrapped around caramel… This summer has seen a number of second and even third openings, so we congratulate Made by Marcus on their Edmonton debut, and their first expansion outside Calgary with their dairy deliciousness and plant-based options!
Hotel Arts
We’re delighted to see many Alberta hotels really upping their restaurant game! Gone are the days when you had to eat outside your hotel, now hotel restaurants are becoming dining destinations in their own right! More soon, but we’d like to shout out to Thomson’s at The Hyatt in Calgary, who have completed a major renovation and a
The Two Trees Bistro is now open for guests of the Nordic Spa at Pomeroy Kananaskis Mountain Lodge! Now you can go from the hydrotherapy pools, for a sauna, a massage – and relax in your dressing gown with delicious, healthy and satisfying food from the Lodge chefs. Watch out Edmonton – an urban version is coming your way at Fort Edmonton in fall 2020!
Once it stopped raining, Hotel Arts were able to complete their major renovation of the pool area, and now it’s a year-round dining destination with a resort feel and a heated deck and cover to protect us from inclement weather. Open to anyone wanting to indulge in people watching, and poolside drinks after 11:00am, and with always excellent breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus from Executive Chef Quinn Staple.
And to the Gomes girls of Cluck N Cleaver, and to Spolumbo’s, on their store-within-astore kiosks inside Co-op West Springs! Each has all their signature foods we know and love in their stand-alone kiosks. Congratulations also to the Carlos brothers at The Bro'Kin Yolk who have opened a third location in the old Ardene’s in Signal Hill – and it’s getting rave reviews!
The lavishly luxurious JW Marriott Edmonton ICE District is now open! Connected to the Rogers Place Arena, this chic, modern hotel boasts two restaurants: Kindred Food and Drink, open all day until late and serving up comfort food and casual dishes; and the upscale Braven Restaurant, offering an elevated steakhouse menu with impressive fresh seafood and desserts!
Two Trees Bistro
Chix Eggshop You’ll want to eat at Calgary’s new Chix Eggshop even if you’re not staying at the Alt Hotel. If you’ve dined at Charcut or Charbar you’ll know why. Seat yourself between 7am3pm, and order at the counter for Chix’s “fast-fine diner” menu of signature breakfast sandwiches, salads, and classics – but don’t miss the half-pound chocolate chip cookie that’s as big as your head!
6 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
Comery Block is the new kid in the old Fiore location on 17 Avenue SW. Sister restaurant to Hayden Block in Kensington, Comery takes its inspiration from West-Tennessee BBQ, smoking it’s super delicious meats 1014 hours every morning and offering around 150 whiskeys! Open 7 days, 11am-late. And more news! Meatery bistro has opened inside Marda Loop Mercantile. Chef Andrew Lowrey (ex Double Zero Pizza and Una) is cooking up simple, elevated food showcasing local produce from the market (check out the Brant Lake wagyu burger, arancini, and truffle parm fries!) Weds-Sun 10am-6pm.
Moonlight & Eli We love the story behind the name of Moonlight & Eli in Bridgeland – ask while you’re sipping champagne and dipping bread cubes, apples, and pickles in your melty Gruyere and Emmenthal fondue… or try meatballs or steamed new potatoes. A little gem for 14-18 romantics and perfect for those private soirees. Weds-Sat 5-late. More than a restaurant, brand new Flores & Pine has opened after a major refurbishment of the former Bear’s Den. It’s a place you can come as you are to eat very well on locally sourced ingredients, sip cocktails… but it’s also a stunning event venue with indoor and outdoor meeting spaces – and with glorious seasonal views too! Open 7 days.
Wherever you live, Purlieu is worth the drive to Oakridge. Chefs Jason Armstrong (ex Bistro 2210 in Mission) and Eric Mah have teamed up to open this lovely, bright space, with super delicious dishes. They’ve put their own spin on the classics, and we’d drive a very long way for those mussels and fries, Alberta "Albondigas", duck confit ravioli and lots more. So much so that we arranged three Vine & Dine evenings here in October! See page 11 for details!
Sunny Cider deliciously dry artisanal ciders from urban fruit topped up with fruit from BC, and offer six other ciders on tap too. Check out Alberta’s 1st cider festival on September 21! Also committed to reducing waste, new cultivatr.ca acts as an online farmers’ market delivering local beef, lamb, pork, and veggies straight from the farm to your door, and supporting farmers who aren’t able to sell directly or maintain their own online store.
Purlieu And Sunny Cider, in Calgary’s northeast, has opened its doors to sip and sample, or for light fare of Pie Junkie pies, picnic plates, cheese boards and more. Hell-bent on reducing food waste, Sunny make their
And new Bessie Box (bessiebox.com) is helping responsible Alberta beef farmers get their products straight to you, with their frozen, portioned, vacuum-sealed, dry-aged meat cuts, delivered free to your door! Check them out!
W I N E S R E WA R D E D BY
JAMES SUCKLING Sangiovese Cabernet Sauvignon
91 POINTS
2016 vintage
92 POINTS
2016 vintage
Please drink responsibly.
Off The Menu
by LINDA GARSON photography DONG KIM
We love hearing from you to request your favourite recipes from your favourite restaurants, and particularly to receive requests like this: “My husband and I would be thrilled if you could track down the recipe for Model Milk’s Fricassee of Calamari dish! It is our absolute favourite - but with a new baby, we don't seem to get too many nights out anymore!” Emily C, Calgary Many many thanks to Model Milk for sharing the recipe for this super delicious dish!
If there’s a dish in a restaurant in Alberta that you’d love to make at home, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/ contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track down the recipe for you!
Fricassee of Calamari Serves 2 as an appetizer
4 Tbs cured guanciale, medium dice 1 tsp garlic, thinly sliced 1 tsp white onion, brunoise 1½ Tbs Korean chilli 2 cups U10 squid tubes, top and bottom removed, and sliced into 0.5 cm strips ¼ cup shelled edamame beans 2 Tbs cherry/grape tomatoes, halved, tossed in oil, and dehydrated in a 150º F oven until shrivelled ¼ tsp of lemon peel, skin only, very small dice ¼ cup butter, medium dice ¼ cup garlic croutons Lemon juice to taste To taste salt 3 Tbs fresh mint, finely chopped 1. Render guanciale (no oil) in an 20 cm skillet over medium heat until starting to lightly brown and crisp, about 3-5 minutes.
8 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
2. Add garlic and onion and toss constantly until aromatic, about 30 seconds. 3. Add Korean chilli until lightly toasted, 30 seconds to 1 minute. 4. Add squid and toss frequently until the strips are starting to go opaque, about 2-5 minutes. 5. Add edamame, tomatoes, and lemon and toss until combined. 6. Slowly add in butter, one knob at a time, until homogenous and all ingredients are glazed. 7. Add garlic croutons, season with lemon juice and salt to taste. 8. Plate and garnish with mint.
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Cheese for a Mountain Getaway by DANIEL BONTJE
Whether you are headed for a picnic or a late season hike in the mountains, there is no need to survive on granola alone! Snowdonia Cheddar with Crystallized Ginger For “travel cheeses” look for a cheese like this Snowdonia Cheddar, which is a great cheese to eat unaccompanied. The saltiness of the cheddar along with the sweetness and
heat of the ginger make this a fast favourite. Steal a graham cracker from your smores kit to bump up the sweetness for a grown-up dessert treat around the fire.
St. Agur
St. Agur may feel soft for a hike, but rest assured that being squashed a little won’t harm this gem of a blue cheese. The high fat content (60%) qualifies it as a double-
Saint- Honoré Brie
When you are out on the trail, don’t worry about removing the rind from this lush Brie, as the mild flavour is not overpowering and it adds a nice texture without being assertive. The richness
cream cheese, so expect it to be buttery as well as spreading easily. The mediumstrong funk hits the “goldilocks” point of being delicious - but not too… funky.
and buttery quality pairs perfectly with dried fruit, so pull out your trail mix and enjoy those dried apple slices and cranberries in a whole new way!
Le Cendrillon Goat Cheese
This is a bold cheese with interesting flavours that are an adventure all on their own! The vegetable ash brings a slight, but pleasant, bitterness that is balanced and intricate. Grab the nuts from your trail
mix or enjoy this beauty on its own, there is a reason it was named the 'Best Cheese in the World' at the 2009 World Cheese Awards.
St. Paulin This cheese was originally made by Trappist monks, and is a close cousin of Port-Salut (another monastery cheese). You can treat it as you would a havarti, but the buttery, slightly
nutty flavour is good sliced on its own. St. Paulin has a washed rind, so try it both with and without the unique flavour the smooth orange rind brings.
All these cheeses will pack well and still be in great shape as you rest on a mountain top and enjoy the view. Crackers may shatter in your pack, so grab a nice cured sausage, some cheese, and get exploring. All cheeses provided for photography and sampling by Worldwide Specialty Foods Ltd.
Eager to try new things, Dan balances his love of cooking with his love of eating, and can be found scouring the city for new restaurants and recipes to share.
10 10 Alberta's Alberta's freshest freshest food food && beverage beverage magazine magazine -- September September 2019 2019
:: Sept emb er and Octo be r :: Culinaire Vin e & Dine Se ries Nights are cooling down, so join us indoors for our Vine & Dine evenings. New dates are added regularly, so check out culinairemagazine.ca/events and contact linda@culinairemagazine.ca, 403-870-9802, for more details and to reserve your places.
Vine & Dine, Purlieu Modern Bistro
Thursday October 17, Wednesday 23, and Sunday 27 Brand new Purlieu is receiving rave reviews for their outstanding dishes. And lucky us, we have three evenings to choose from for these superb 6-course pairing dinners! $78.75 ++
Tsantali Winemaker Dinner, Koutouki South, Edmonton ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen Friday September 6 Our first Edmonton Vine & Dine! Andreas Georgousis of award-winning Tsantali, in northern Greece, is with us for this delicious, oneoff special 6-course pairing dinner. $82.50 ++
Vine & Dine, Yakima
Friday October 18 Every one of our 6-course pairing dinners at ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen’s beautiful Lincoln Park home has been outstanding. With recipes and demonstrations, and secrets from the best. $78.75++
Thursday September 5, Friday 13, and Monday 16 We’re excited for these Canada-focused, 6-course pairing dinners featuring local producers, at Yakima. We’re enjoying ripasso, amarone and more with this superb menu – and free parking at the airport! $78.75 ++
Fine Japanese Tea Tasting
All About Duck, Winebar Kensington
Our 4th Annual Edmonton Treasure Hunt
Wednesday September 11 For one night only we’re featuring Winebar Kensington’s chef speciality, a one-off 5-course dinner featuring amazing all-duck dishes paired with specials from Italy! $82.50 ++
Sunday October 20, 3:00-5:00pm It’s a special Sunday when Japanese Tea Ambassador to Canada, Michiko Ono, takes us through 6 very different fine teas, with Japa Café’s superb tea snacks. $38.75 ++
RESERVE A TABLE ON CALGARY’S BEST PATIO Overlooking the plaza at Heritage Town Square Thursday Half-Price Wine | Craft Beer Field-to-Fork Inspired Menu
FROM OUR GARDEN TO YOUR PLATE
Saturday September 7 A day to remember! Visit culinairemagazine.ca/ treasure-hunt to register for this fun, and very rewarding full day of culinary treats. Only a few spots open!
And there are only 4 spots open now for our 12-day, allinclusive wine and culinary tour of Portugal, May 2020!
RESERVATIONS 403 268 8607 | SelkirkGrille.ca
Chefs' Tips by ANNA BROOKS photography by DONG KIM
Tricks!
The Art of the Sandwich
There is something extra special about a sandwich, but we sometimes forget because it’s such a commonplace food. Sandwiches have been around since 1762, supposedly named after John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich. Known to be an avid gambler, Montagu asked servants bring him meat stuffed between two pieces of bread as it was easier to eat while he was playing cards. Nowadays, sandwiches are on almost every menu in every form you can imagine: hamburgers, paninis, French dips, grilled cheese, po’boys, lobster rolls... the list goes on.
As we’re all ‘back to school’, we decided to pay homage to everyone’s childhood (and adult) favourite. We talked to four local chefs and learned their best tips and tricks for making the perfect sandwich! If there’s one person that knows sandwiches, it’s Nick Yee, co-owner of Holy Grill in Calgary. Perfecting the art of paninis and burgers, Yee says what he loves so much about sandwiches (paninis, in particular) is the versatility. Unlike French, Italian, or any other cuisine you can think of, the only rule with sandwiches is… there are no rules.
“You can literally put anything in it,” he says. “It allows us to mesh together food from all different cultures when you wouldn’t normally have that opportunity. Where else can you have an Italian panini mixed with Korean fried rice?” If you’re curious about the Italian-Korean combo, Yee has generously shared his recipe for one of his top-selling sandwiches. It takes a little longer to cook, but as Yee puts it, this recipe for barbecued beef kimchi fried rice panini is “straight-up epic.”
Barbecued Beef Kimchi Fried Rice Panini Serves 4
For beef: 435 g flank steak (or your choice of beef) ½ tsp ginger, minced 1 tsp garlic, minced ½ Tbs sesame oil ½ Tbs rice vinegar ½ cup (120 mL) beef broth ¼ cup (60 mL) soy sauce ¼ cup brown sugar
¾ tsp sesame seeds 1 Tbs green onions, sliced
2. In a large pan on high heat, sear the steak on all sides with the ginger and garlic.
For fried rice: 1 large onion, diced 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated 2 cups (480 mL) kimchi, coarsely chopped ½ pot steamed rice ¼ cup (60 mL) soy sauce 2 Tbs (30 mL) gochujang 2 Tbs (30 mL) sesame oil 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 green onions, thinly sliced 1 Tbs black sesame seeds
3. Transfer beef to a large pot (or slow
30 cm flatbread Sriracha mayo (for dressing) 4 slices provolone cheese Your choice of greens for filling
cooker), and add remaining ingredients for the beef. Slow cook for roughly three hours.
4. On medium heat in a large pan or wok,
fry diced onion in canola oil with the grated ginger. Once golden brown, add the kimchi.
5. Add your steamed rice, and the rest
of remaining ingredients for the rice. Fry altogether until the rice is well coated.
6. Assemble paninis in the following order:
flatbread, smear of sriracha mayo, provolone cheese, add one cup of kimchi fried rice, add beef, top with greens of your choice.
7. Grill (or if you own one - panini maker) and serve!
1. Preheat oven to 350º F. meat, mayo, cheese, or whatever else floats your sandwich boat, is a great way to use up produce and stay stocked through the winter. Sandwiches also come in super handy when you have an assortment of ingredients and don’t know what to make, or to use up leftovers. Try one of Cherkewick’s favourite recipes that tastes delicious, and make it with whatever you have kicking around in the fridge.
Every month at Farrow sandwich shop in Edmonton, co-owner Laine Cherkewick gets to experiment with a rotating list of sandwiches, like their picnic-inspired sandwich stuffed with watermelon and macaroni salad, or the “Chief Beef” sandwich with horseradish aioli and potato chips. “The majority of people were raised on sandwiches, so for me it’s a nostalgic thing,” he says. “I’m a sucker for putting processed cheese and chips in a sandwich, but you can put in absolutely anything and it will probably taste great.” Come fall, one of Cherkewick’s go-to ingredients for sandwiches is the pickled vegetables he makes himself. Coupling the acidity of your pickled product with some
Best Leftovers Sandwich Serves 4
Leftover roasted chicken (or leftover protein of choice) Hot sauce Aged cheddar Pickles Tomatoes, sliced Your choice of bread Greens of choice For Ranch Dressing: ½ cup (120 mL) mayonnaise ½ cup (120 mL) buttermilk 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 Tbs fresh dill, chopped 1 Tbs fresh parsley, chopped ¼ tsp ground pepper
1 tsp mustard powder 1 Tbs sugar
1. Slice roasted chicken. Toss with your
favourite hot sauce.
2. To make ranch, combine all ingredients and whisk. 3. Lightly toast two slices of your bread of choice. 4. Layer with cheese, pickles, tomatoes, ranch, chicken, and your greens of choice.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019 13
Homemade Sesame Bun Breakfast Sandwich
as dough mixes. Mix on low speed for five minutes, and then increase to the next speed level for five minutes.
1 heaped Tbs (17 g) yeast ¾ cup (180 mL) water 35 g sugar 9 g sea salt 370 g bread flour 2 Tbs (30 mL) sesame oil 3½ tsp (18 mL) tahini 4 eggs 1 avocado, divided into quarters 2 garden tomatoes, sliced 4 slices of bacon, cooked to your liking
4. Transfer dough to a greased bowl and cover. Allow it to proof until dough is double in size.
Serves 4
1. Mix yeast into water. 2. Combine dry ingredients (sugar,
For Stuart Leduc, the chef at premium sandwich market Butcher and the Baker in Calgary, there is nothing better than a well-made sandwich, and surprisingly, those can be hard to come by. He says the one critical ingredient that elevates a sandwich from okay to amazing, is the bread.
salt, flour) in a bowl, and mix on low speed.
3. Add water mixture, sesame oil, and tahini
“The key to a great sandwich is using nice fresh bread,” he says. “That may seem obvious, but I don’t think it can be overstated. Go to a local bakery and grab some rye bread, or ask what’s most popular. That’s the best way to avoid disappointment.” The great thing about bread is there are so many different types to choose from, and many grocery stores sell fresh baked bread if you don’t have time to swing by a bakery.
The key to a great sandwich is using nice fresh bread
Want to really impress your friends and family? Try Leduc’s recipe for homemade sesame buns – they make for a mouthwatering breakfast sandwich, or basically anything else that fits in a bun! 14 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
5. Roll out four equal sized balls and grease each. Cover with a plastic bag and continue to proof for approximately an hour. 6. Bake at 350º F for eight minutes. Rotate buns and bake for another eight minutes. 7. Once buns cool, toast them lightly. Top with an egg cooked to your liking, avocado, a slice or two of tomato, and a slice of bacon.
1. Coat slices of bread on one side with mayonnaise or butter (do not use substitute mayo spreads).
We can’t talk sandwiches without mentioning a universal favourite: the grilled cheese. Now, you may be thinking, “I already know how to make a grilled cheese, I’ve done it a million times!” But Quinn Nicholson, co-owner of Melt Sandwich Co. in Edmonton, has some tricks that may up your grilled cheese game. “My biggest piece of advice is to indulge in a few specialty cheeses,” he says. “A lot of us will just grab a block of cheddar, but look for a cheese that has a bit of personality – it can create a really interesting flavour profile.” He also recommends doing the work and grating the cheese yourself, as pre-shredded cheese often contains agents like starch that prevent it from melting. When it comes to actually grilling the sandwich, instead of using butter (or God forbid, nothing at all) Nicholson smears the bread with a bit of mayo – not Miracle Whip, he emphasizes – to give it a nice, even sear, and impart a touch of sweetness.
2. Heat up a cast iron pan until just on the edge of sizzling. Place bread slices mayo-side down in pan. Watch carefully, you want the bread to begin lightly toasting, not burning.
One block of mild or medium cheddar cheese, grated One block of mozzarella cheese, grated 168 g Maasdam cheese (or your cheese of choice), grated Your choice of filling (chef recommends bacon, sun-dried tomatoes, chorizo sausage, pesto, or wilted spinach)
3. Sprinkle enough grated cheddar to coat one slice of the toasting bread, and enough grated mozzarella to coat the other slice. 4. Add your Maasdam or cheese of choice. Toast until all the cheese is about half melted. 5. Add whatever additional ingredients you like as filling. Close the sandwich, and continue cooking until cheese is fully melted and the sandwich can’t be pulled apart.
Ready to try it yourself? Check out Nicholson’s recipe for a “choose your own adventure” grilled cheese!
Melt’s “Choose Your Own Adventure” Grilled Cheese Serves 4
8 slices of fresh sourdough bread Mayonnaise (use as needed)
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019 15
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Home is where the Art is Broadview Homes knows it can be hard to deliver on a “dream home” – after all, so many people have been imagining their own for their whole life. However, they are doing just that in the creative community of Harmony with a collaborative endeavour bringing art, family, food, and friendship together inside their beautiful homes. Knowing that quality construction and design is only the start when it comes to creating a home for families to truly
love, Broadview Homes Vice President, Peter-John Woolf began reaching out to local artist Jason Gogo several years ago to partner in bringing art into the spaces they were building. The company had started building in Harmony, west of Calgary, and with the community using creativity and art as one of its guiding principles it was the ideal place to bring their idea to life. Through their partnership, Gogo (as he was known by friends and fans alike) created paintings for ten of their Harmony home buyers who now have their own original pieces proudly displayed in their homes. Since Gogo’s passing last year, this beautiful collaboration has continued to grow, now through his sister Michelle Kruger, an accomplished Alberta artist with a completely unique style. In watching Michelle and PeterJohn talk about their plans as they walk through one of the new show homes in Harmony, it is obvious that this partnership has grown from a friendship built around a shared vision. “This community is vibrant,”
says Peter-John, “and I think having art here is huge.” As they tour the show home together, Peter-John and Michelle shared a laugh as they talked about where best to show off the new striking black and white canvas that Michelle had brought with her. As he describes it, this is a natural fit for both of them, “I’ve said to Michelle since the beginning, you’re making art and we are making walls: we should be pals.” When she isn’t painting, Michelle is no stranger to the kitchen herself and is an established caterer as well as an artist. A fundamental part of the Broadview/Kruger partnership is a series of dinner parties hosted in Broadview’s showhomes. Buyers new to the community have the opportunity to enjoy Michelle’s recipes and get to know the artist and her art on a personal level, while connecting with new neighbours and the team that helped build their new homes. Not only are they thinking outside the box, but Broadview has a clear dedication to building lasting relationships, and that commitment doesn’t end when the home is sold.
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Sitting in the open kitchen and living room together, Michelle shared with Peter-John why she has been so excited to collaborate. “[Broadview] has been very supportive of the arts community. Even the way you do your lighting and things, as an artist one of the biggest problems we have when we go in and hang art is that there is no lighting or consideration for art.” By customizing each home in consultation with the new homeowners, some families have even changed the floor plan to better show off a favourite painting or unique antique furniture piece. It’s a unique approach that shows the care that Broadview is committed to bringing, making sure each house feels individual and perfectly suited to the families’ needs through the entire construction process. Knowing that the kitchen is the heart of any home, every Broadview kitchen is outfitted with top of the line KitchenAid appliances to help make entertaining a breeze, whether it’s for a
big housewarming party or an intimate evening for two. Since Harmony is such a beautiful, outdoor focused neighbourhood the homes have been designed with this in mind and all allow for your parties to move easily outdoors to a built in barbecue on the deck or to enjoy the beautiful green spaces and views. Located only ten minutes from the edge of the city, Harmony is close enough to be convenient while being just far enough out of the hustle and bustle make your house feel like an oasis, with lake access and a beautiful golf course just a short walk away down the paths that connect the luxury homes, creating an outdoor oriented community with places for neighbors to connect and get to know one another as their children play together. For more information visit Broadview in Harmony or broadviewhomescalgary.com
Spice it up: Hummus by MALLORY FRAYN
September is back-toschool time, and whether you have kids or not, it’s a great reminder to up your snack game to ensure you’re never left hungry without something readyto-eat on hand.
Enter hummus, the ultimate, easy-to-make, budget-friendly snack for those young and old. While store-bought will do in a pinch, it’s not quite the same as making your own from scratch and getting to personalize it to your heart’s desire. Just keep these three tips in mind and you’ll have hummus for snacking in no time. 1. Chickpeas aren’t the only base Chickpeas are the best-known base legume for making hummus, but they’re just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to pulse-able pulses.
Whether you’re working with dried or canned pulses, most can be blended into hummus. The only exception might be varieties that lean towards the stinkier side, say like kidney beans or lima beans.
Café and try your hand at one of their signature dishes, red lentil hummus (see culinairemagazine.ca for recipe), an ideal choice because they break down more easily than other options like beluga or Puy lentils.
White beans are ideal because they lend an incredibly creamy texture when blended and can even be made into a white bean puree to serve in place of mashed potatoes. Conversely, black beans are fun to play around with because of their striking colour and more Mexicana flavour profile.
2. Blend in your veggies Typically, veggies are used as a vessel for eating hummus (lest you opt to devour it straight with a spoon), but they can also be used to bulk it out, add nutrition, and to alter to colour or flavour.
Don’t forget about lentils either, which are especially fitting given their Canadian origin. Take inspiration from Calgary’s River
18 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
Depending on your vegetables of choice, blanching them first can help to: a) blend them into the hummus more easily, and b) preserve their colour. This is especially the
case for green veggies like spinach, kale, or even herbs like flat-leaf parsley that tend to lose their vibrancy. And while fresh or blanched vegetables are great additions, so are cured, pickled, or fermented vegetables and vegetable derivatives. Try blending in kimchi for a spicy, funky take on hummus, or try adding olives, sundried tomatoes, or roasted red peppers for more of a Mediterranean spin. 3. Don’t neglect your garnish The best part of eating hummus is getting to scoop up bites of the creamy dip laden with bits and pieces of whatever you’ve chosen to garnish it with. What you add really depends on what’s in your hummus to begin with. If vegetables, herbs, or spices are pureed into the mix, it’s always useful to sprinkle them on top to help remind you what you’re eating (and to double up on flavour).
Once cooked, strain off the chickpeas and set them aside for now. Pulse the garlic in a food processor until roughly chopped. Add in the beets and do the same. Add in the strained chickpeas, lemon, tahini, and olive oil. Blend until pureed, scraping down the sides of the food processor as necessary. To achieve the desired consistency, gradually add in cool water to thin (do this while the food process is running). The hummus should be thinner than you think it should be because it will firm up significantly once cooled. Thus, you’ll probably want to add about ¼ cup (60 mL) or more of cold water to achieve the desired thinness (it should be pourable but not runny). Chill and serve garnished with thinly sliced pickled beets and beet chips.
A healthy glug of extra virgin olive oil never hurt either, and don’t be afraid to add more garnish after the first layer has been eaten.
Pickled Beet Hummus
1 cup dry chickpeas, soaked in water for 6-8 hours or overnight Pinch baking soda 1 clove garlic 2-3 Tbs pickled beets 1 lemon, juice and zest ¼ cup (60 mL) tahini 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil Cold water, as needed to thin To taste salt and pepper Strain and rinse the soaked chickpeas. Place in a medium-sized pot with a pinch of baking soda and cook over medium high heat until the skins begin to release, about 5 minutes. Add water and bring to a boil. Cook until the chickpeas are tender about 25-30 minutes.
Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat
Easier Than Pie Story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY
Do you ever just crave pie? And then think about how long it takes to make the dough, the filling, bake, and then ... sigh. Not enough time. Not enough ambition.
Galettes however are like pie, but a little more casual; it's a laid back, hippie kind of gastronomy instead of all glamorous and perfect. And it takes the pressure off, so you can make it rustic, make it chill, and make it delicious. Savoury galettes are a great addition to breakfast, lunch or dinner. They travel well, can be eaten at room temperature, freeze easily, and you can mix up the fillings to suit your taste.
Breakfast Galette Makes 1
110g (small square) puff pastry ½ cup cheddar cheese 1/3 cup mushrooms, thinly sliced 2 stalks asparagus, rough chop 1 egg 2 Tbs (30 mL)milk Pinch salt and pepper ¼ cup green onion, thinly sliced
Preheat oven to 425º F. 1. Roll out puff pastry ½ cm thick and 26 cm diameter round. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Place pastry on parchment. 2. Add half the cheese, leaving 6 cm around the edge. 3. Add mushrooms and asparagus. 4. Mix the egg, milk and seasoning in a bowl. 5. Fold edges partially over and pour egg mixture in centre making sure the egg mixture goes under the fold so there is egg in every bite. 6. Top galette with remaining cheese and pop in the oven for 18 - 20 minutes. 7. Cool a little, and grab one on your way out the door, and congratulate yourself on the first win of the day!
20 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
Cornmeal Dough for Savoury Galettes Makes 2
3 Tbs (45 mL) sour cream 1/3 cup (60 mL) ice water 1 cup all purpose flour ¼ cup cornmeal ½ tsp sea salt 7 Tbs (100g) butter 1. Stir the sour cream and water together in a small bowl. 2. In a food processor add the flour, cornmeal and salt. Pulse to combine. 3. Cut butter into cubes and add to food processor. Pulse 8 to 10 times or until the butter is in pea size pieces. 4. Add the sour cream mixture and process until the dough is soft and comes together.
5. Remove dough from processor and form into 2 rounds. Press each round into a disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 2 hours, up to 2 days, or freeze. 6. Remove dough from fridge. Preheat oven to 400º F. 7. Roll dough into rounds ½ cm thick and 26 cm diameter. Line baking sheet with parchment and place dough. 8. Add your filling (see options below or make your own). Fold dough edges partially over the filling. Bake 35 to 40 minutes. Veggie Galette Filling Makes 1 ¼ cup (60 mL) pesto ¼ to 1/3 cup each of your favourite vegetables, thinly sliced ie. beets, radish, carrot, asparagus, green onion, arugula, sweet potato, or any of your favourite vegetables. ¼ cup (60 g) feta cheese (optional) Savoury Galette Filling Makes 1 1/3 cup (80 mL) béchamel sauce ¼ cup basil, chiffonade ½ cup zucchini noodles (or sliced) 1/3 cup caramelized onions ½ cup cherry tomatoes, halved 1/3 cup greens, rough chop (beet greens chard, arugula) ½ cup sautéed sausage or ground meat
Cherry Chocolate Galette
1. Add cherries, juices, bourbon to asmall pot. Over medium heat, reduce the liquid to half.
Dough 1¼ cups (175 g) all purpose flour ¼ cup Dutch process cocoa ½ tsp sea salt ¼ cup (110g) butter, cold 1 orange zested 1 egg yolk 4 Tbs (60 mL) ice water
2. Add honey and simmer another 3 mins.
Makes 2
1. Pulse flour, cocoa, and salt in a food processor. 2. Cut up butter in cubes and add to food processor and pulse 8 to 10 times or until butter is pea size pieces. 3. Add zest and yolk, and pulse 4 times. Add ice water and pulse until dough comes together. 4. Remove from food processor and press dough together to form into 2 rounds and flatten slightly. Let sit in fridge for 1 hour (or up to 2 days). Filling 2½ cups (275g) sour cherries (or sweet) ¾ cup (180 mL) cherry juice (or amount of juice from cherries) 2 Tbs (30 mL) fresh orange juice 2½ Tbs (35 mL) bourbon 2 Tbs (30 mL) honey Whipped cream, for garnish
3. Remove from heat and let cool. Can be made up to 2 days prior and stored in the fridge. 4. Preheat oven to 400º F. Remove dough from fridge. Roll into rounds ½ cm thick and 26 cm diameter.
Galettes are like pie but more casual 5. Scoop cherry mixture into centre leaving about 6 cm without filling along the edge. Fold edges partially over the filling. 6. Line baking sheet with parchment. Bake galettes 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool and enjoy with a dollop of whipped cream. Note: The dough can be frozen for a month. It is easier to roll the dough into rounds placing parchment between the layers, then freeze. Thaw, still wrapped, in the refrigerator as needed.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.
International award winning artist Lorraine Shulba specializing in custom commissions for your home.
is... nt for the soul. artnourishme @BlueBugStudiosLShulbaArtistDesigner @lorraine_shulba_artist 21
Check out her portfolio!
BlueBugStudios.com
Hops: Alberta’s Newest Agribusiness by DAVID NUTTALL
Even the most casual beer drinker probably knows its four main ingredients are malt, hops, water, and yeast. In last year’s harvest issue, we explored Alberta’s importance in malt production, not only for local beers, but for breweries all over the world. But what about hops? This is one of Alberta’s newest crops, and growers are still learning what its potential can become. Just because people have heard of hops doesn’t mean they know exactly what they are - the female flower of the Humulus lupulus plant, a relative to cannabis and hemp. It looks somewhat like a tiny pine cone, and within its lupulin glands are the resins and oils that provide the main properties of the hop. The alpha acids of the resin, expressed in percentage weight, contain the characteristics of bitterness, flavour, and aroma unique to each variety. These components provide the bitter balance to the sugars from the malt.
It took brewers almost 7,000 years to figure out how to use hops in brewing; because the plant is so bitter it couldn’t be eaten or used in cooking. It is also poisonous to many animals, including dogs and cats, so it was generally ignored until around 700 AD in the Hallertau region of what is now Bavaria, when brewers figured out how to use it. From there, hop planting expanded through Europe and later arrived in North America. By the mid-1800s, hop farms were being planted in Oregon and Washington, and to this day Germany and the United States lead the world in hop production. The plant itself is a vine that can grow as much as twenty feet in one season in the right climate, and because they can topple over, the vines are often attached to trellises, strings, or poles for support.
22 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
The harvest is late summer, and the flowers are picked and taken to an oast or hop house for drying. When ready, they are either kept as whole hops, pressed into bales, compressed into plugs or pellets, or condensed into extract; all forms are used by breweries.
The plant… can grow as much as 20 feet in one season Cross breeding became common in the 1800s to isolate various qualities within the hops. This has accelerated since the 1970s with programs at Washington State and Oregon State Universities (among others) leading the way by introducing new hop varieties that have become the calling card of the American craft beer explosion.
While there are a couple of hundred varieties of hops used in brewing, they are commonly divided into either aroma or bittering hops. Some can be used for both and are called dual-purpose hops. Aroma hops tend to be lower in alpha acids, and the European versions are often called noble hops, for their subtlety. The unique characteristics within each variety determines its plantability, not only for its flavour profile, but also its hardiness, resistance to disease and mildew, etc. Which brings us to hops in Alberta. While the plant grows well in this province, historically, it has been ignored beyond those interested in backyard plantings. Through most of Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history, brewing has been dominated by just a few breweries who had their suppliers, so there was no benefit for farmers to plant a crop that no one would buy. However, with the growth of craft brewing in the past couple of decades, and the need for varieties of hops for the diversity of beers being brewed today, hop growing has become a feasible business. The first Alberta commercial hop farm, Northern Girl Hopyard at Windover Farm, began production in 2014. A few more farms have added hopyards since, leading to the founding of the Alberta Hop Producers Association (albertahopproducers.com) in late 2017. Now, 18 Alberta farms are growing hops for a total of about 25 acres planted, with about four acres mature enough for commercial sale. Compare this to the almost 40,000 acres planted in Washington state alone, although they had a 150-year head start. Alberta growers are still mostly at the experimentation and development stage. Hops take at least four years to mature, and
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with only about a dozen varieties planted, growers are still looking for hops that can adapt to our climate. Properties such as deep roots, ability to mature early, and resistance to disease, wind, humidity, also apply to hops. Establishing a hopyard has it own challenges, far removed from the grains that dominate Alberta farming. The design, setup, irrigation, and planting are unique, and involve costs not associated with other crops. The harvesting involves a combination of hand picking and mechanical; then there is storage, drying, refrigeration, and possible processing of the crop. Hop growers here are still experimenting with best practices, and only time will tell which ones work best. For now, Alberta hops represent only a miniscule portion in Alberta beer. The hope is that the industry will continue to grow and flourish, adding another dimension of locality to the provinceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s craft beer. David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.
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Whether you are looking for a place for an intimate dinner or need to plan an event, we will make your vision come true!
Your New Best Friend : Sheet Pan Suppers Story and photography by RENĂ&#x2030;E KOHLMAN
Sheet pan suppers are all the rage lately. Everywhere I look, be it flipping through food magazines, wandering the cookbook section of the bookstore, or reading my favourite blogs and Instagram feeds, the world is in love with ideas for dinner using only one pan.
24 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
And rightly so. Who doesn’t love eating delicious food that cooks quickly and has virtually no cleanup? As someone without a dishwasher, I wash a lot of dishes. Every day. If I can save a little mess (and time) I’m all over it. The premise behind the sheet pan supper is simple: place the protein, veg, and starch (if you’re roasting it) in a single layer on a single sheet pan. You may have to stagger cooking times depending on what you’re cooking, but in the end, dinner will be on the table in about 30 minutes and will have required minimal effort. Not all sheet pans are created equal. You need one, or two depending on how many mouths you’re feeding, that are rimmed and are about 18 x 13 inches. The best place to find them would be restaurant supply stores. Here they will be labelled as a half sheet pan. Some grocery and specialty grocers are another place to look. Whatever you do, don’t use a flimsy baking sheet without a rim. All of those lovely pan juices will end up on the bottom of the oven and the smoke alarm may go off. At the end of a long day, no one wants to listen to that.
Don’t use a flimsy baking sheet without a rim Another tip for a successful, golden and crispy sheet pan supper, is to make sure the oven temp is hot-hot-hot, and that you don’t crowd your pan. Crowding equals moisture which equals soggy food. The glory of the sheet pan supper lies in its versatility. Options are truly endless. I’ve roasted shrimp with broccoli and lentils, chicken thighs with cherry tomatoes and olives, salmon with asparagus and potatoes. I like to go big and use two sheet pans so there are leftovers for lunch the next day. Cook once, eat twice and all that.
The sheet pan supper is so darn satisfactory. The vegetables roast up to pretty perfection, and the meat, if you’re using any, has lovely crispy bits that we all love. For this recipe I marinated pork tenderloin and chickpeas, then tossed some seasonal vegetables with the marinade as well. I used wedges of acorn squash, sweet peppers, red onion, and kale but any combination of your favourite vegetables would work. Not only are sheet pan suppers a fabulous way of cleaning out the crisper, they are the weeknight warriors when it comes to feeding a hungry family. Better than takeout, and cheaper than dining out, this method of cooking really is a cook’s best friend. Roasted Pork Tenderloin Sheet Pan Supper with Vegetables and Chickpeas Serves 4
4. Reserve about 2 Tbs (30 mL) of the marinade for later. Add the tenderloin, chickpeas and squash wedges. Gently toss, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes. 5. Place the tenderloin on one of the baking sheets. Add the remaining vegetables, except kale, to the marinade and gently toss. Dump the vegetables onto the two baking sheets, spreading them out so they are in a single layer. Roast for about 20 minutes. 6. Meanwhile, toss the kale in the remaining marinade and gently massage with your fingers. Add the kale to the baking sheets at the 20 minute mark, and roast for another 8-10 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the centre of the pork reads 145º F (65º C).
½ cup (125 mL) olive oil ¼ cup (60 mL) apple cider vinegar 1 Tbs dried oregano 1 Tbs dried basil 1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrup 2 tsp salt 2 tsp garlic powder 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp mustard powder 1 tsp black pepper 1 pork tenderloin about 675 g, trimmed 1 can (540 mL) chickpeas, rinsed 1 acorn squash, scrubbed and cut into 5 mm wedges 2 sweet bell peppers, sliced 1 red onion, sliced 1 bunch of kale, stems removed, leaves roughly torn 1. Preheat the oven to 425º F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. In a large bowl, whisk together the first ten ingredients (olive oil to black pepper). 3. Trim the silver skin from the pork tenderloin by sliding the tip of a sharp knife under the skin, tilting the knife upwards, and removing thin pieces of skin until it’s completely gone.
7. Place the cooked pork on a cutting board and cover loosely with foil. Let it rest 10 minutes before slicing. Combine the two baking sheets of vegetables onto one and arrange the pork on top. Serve immediately. Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019 25
The New Craft Industry: Drizzle Honey by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH
Alberta certainly has no shortage of honey. As one of the world’s largest honey producers, Alberta is filled with beekeepers who are responsible for much of the honey that we see on grocery store shelves, but the world of boutique honey is still emerging in the province. At the forefront of Alberta’s new craft honey industry is Drizzle Honey, a Calgarybased company that produces a smart and tasty honey brand designed to bring the
sweet stuff to a new generation of honey lovers. Drizzle founder, Aja Horsley, first dreamed up her company in 2014 when she was working in the environmental research department at SAIT, focusing on the realm of urban agriculture. Her team got a grant to start a rooftop beekeeping project and Horsley soon fell in love with the fascinating world of
26 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
bees. Combining this with her interest in sustainable food sources, she wanted to do her part to encourage environmentally sound practices in the honey industry. “There’s a lot in the news right now around bee health and the things we can do to sustainably produce honey,” Horsley says. “I wanted to do something that involved putting hives in locations that would be better for the bee health.”
spiced honey and a unique “superfood” line, with turmeric, ginger, and cacao varieties touted for their anti-inflammatory, immunity boosting, and energy boosting properties, respectively. “Honey is a superfood itself,” Horsley says. “It all comes back to why I started the company — I wanted people to be consuming more Canadian honey and to support our local beekeepers. I’ve always been a health food advocate and thought that incorporating superfoods would be a fantastic way to bring something new to an already healthy product.”
Horsley started by beekeeping herself, and while she enjoyed it and even considered purchasing a farm to increase her production, just as Drizzle was getting ready to take off she developed an allergy to beestings and had to pack up her backyard beekeeping operation. Luckily, because of her researcher gig (which she had quit by this point to focus on Drizzle), she knew several local beekeeping professionals that shared her dedication to sustainability, responsible hive management, and giving the bees access to a wide range of floral food sources. By 2016, Horsley was outsourcing her production and Drizzle was selling raw unpasteurized honey at Market Collective pop-up events in Calgary.
“I wanted people to be consuming more Canadian honey and to support our local beekeepers” Since then, Drizzle has grown quickly. In 2018 the company received a considerable boost via an investment from Arlene Dickinson’s District Ventures, and the honey is now available across Canada. Albertans can find it at stores like Calgary Co-op, Blush
Lane Organic Markets, Save-On Foods, Italian Centre Shops, and health food stores in communities across the province. Much of Drizzle’s success comes from the quality of the product and the underlying philosophy, but Horsley has also been careful about Drizzle’s packaging and marketing in an attempt to appeal to millennials, a demographic that may not otherwise be buying a lot of honey. “There’s a big gap in the market for a millennial-inspired innovative honey product that’s tapped into the trends on social media,” Horsley says. “Our honey is natural, which is huge for millennials right now. They like that it’s health conscious and has a social impact piece to it too.” Younger consumers also tend to like variety, and Drizzle is unique in that it offers products beyond plain honey. Horsley started with her “everyday luxury” collection, featuring raw white and golden honey (the colours are natural and are differentiated by when and where the honey is harvested), as well as packaged honeycomb. Once she established those base honeys to signal that she was serious about quality and sustainability, Horsley started to get a bit more creative with a seasonal cinnamon
One risk of bringing honey varieties to market is that new customers may not know how to use them. Drizzle’s products can be spread on toast or stirred into tea (or, if you’re looking for a winter warm-up, try the cinnamon flavour in a hot toddy), but like other honeys they can also serve as an ingredient in both sweet and savoury recipes. Horsley recommends drizzling honey over roasted vegetables, mixing them into salad dressings, blending them into smoothies, turning them into simple syrup for cocktails, or using them as a topper for ice cream. Drizzle’s website also features a nice portfolio of recipes, including some that make use of the superfood flavours. Horsley also suggests that non-tea drinkers try stirring the honey into coffee as an alternative sweetener. However customers use the honey, Horsley wants them to recognize that by supporting Drizzle, they’re ultimately supporting the environment and the bees. “We’re all about innovation and sustainability,” she says. “That’s what I’d like to be recognized for.” In addition to the growing legion of retailers that carry the product, the entire Drizzle line is also available to purchase online at drizzlehoney.com Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019 27
Alberta's Finest Drinks Lists by RENÉE DELORME, TOM FIRTH, LINDA GARSON, and LAURIE MACKAY
Our 2019 Alberta’s Finest Drinks List Awards is our third edition, and as always, it is a pleasure to see the efforts of so many restaurants, hotels, clubs, and other venues regarding their drink list.
It’s been a rough few years for Alberta’s economy, we’ve seen a number of beloved and treasured establishments shut their doors, and many others scale back trying to ride things out - large, expensive lists are one of the first things on the chopping block, but that doesn’t mean lists are full of cheap, commercial bottles these days. The lists we saw over our two days of judging were – for the most part - a testament to the skills and experience of the people creating 28 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
them; lists full of interesting and unique bottles, lists that play off a specific theme or focus, and lists that prove an exciting, well thought-out list can be a smaller one. Our judges score each list independently, and most importantly, evaluate consistently. This isn’t about who they know or like, but about the list on the table - does it have breadth or depth, is it interesting or noteworthy, does it seem approachable or manageable - or was only the barest attention paid to offerings?
New this year, we’ve added a category for “Curated Lists”, which seek to celebrate the efforts of the sommelier or person responsible for the list - lists where every single bottle serves a purpose and it shows. We’ve also added a Canadian Content
symbol to recognize lists that have a significant Canadian-made presence on the list. Canadian wine, beers, and spirits are among the best in the world, and these lists do much more than pay lip-service to Canadian bottles, they proudly offer them up beside examples from around the globe.
A heartfelt thank you to everyone who shared their lists with us, our judges, and to Q-Haute Cuisine for being a perfect venue to be sequestered in for the two days of judging. Thanks too to the Italian Trade Commission for collaborating on our category of Best Italian List.
Our Judges Linda Garson, Co-Chair, Editor in Chief, Culinaire Magazine As the creator of Vine & Dine in 2005, Linda has spent nearly fourteen years eating, drinking, and studying menus and wine lists, and there’s no stopping her. Running these educational pairing dinners for so long has given her such an appreciation of Alberta’s vibrant culinary scene, that she launched Culinaire Magazine in 2012 to celebrate the best our province has to offer. Tom Firth Co-Chair, Managing Editor, Culinaire Magazine With nearly 25 years in beverage industry, Tom spent several years retailing for two of the best wine stores in the province before moving to the journalism side of a wine bottle. Tom is the Managing Editor for Culinaire magazine, and Linda Garson Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards; he’s spent many a day pouring over wine lists with an eye for exciting bottles that won’t wreck the budget.
Laurie MacKay
Laurie MacKay A sommelier by trade and a traveler by passion, Laurie’s 20 years in the wine and spirits industry has taken her from work in a trendy wine boutique to a premium wine importer, to harvest in New Zealand. As the Drinks columnist for CBC Radio, Laurie appreciates a well-curated list (wine, beer, and spirits) and loves to share her discoveries with her diverse listening audience. Renée Delorme A graduate of the International Sommelier Guild, Wine and Spirit Education Trust, and Fine Vintage, Renée is a sommelier who started her wine adventure 12 years ago. She runs custom wine tastings, guides groups Tom Firth visiting wine regions, pairs menus for special events, designs and teaches wine courses, and writes for magazines. She also enjoyed a regular segment on Radio Canada.
Renée Delorme
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019 29
Best Overall List A Best Overall drink list can be the object of considerable deliberations amongst sommeliers. Factors such as philosophies guiding the selection of wines, spirits, beers and liquors, connections with the menus, and how to organize the drink menu are all critical. In the end, however, the focus must be on the client and on creating memorable experiences.
Azuridge Estate Hotel River Café
This year we have a tie between two winners. River Café has a clear philosophy underpinning their choices for well-crafted wines, small producers, and a generous Canadian content. The wine list at Fairview Bar and Restaurant shines by its apparent simplicity. It is organized by styles with a few chosen words to describe them and to reduce our guesswork. Both lists offer labels at reasonable price points and exciting “verticals”. Renée Delorme DIAMOND AWARD (TIE)
Teatro
Fairview Bar and Restaurant
Lake House 1888 Chop House
River Café 25 Prince's Island Park SW, Calgary river-cafe.com Fairview Bar and Restaurant (Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise) 111 Lake Louise Drive, Lake Louise fairmont.com/lake-louise GOLD AWARD
Deer Lodge Royale
Lake House 747 Lake Bonavista Drive SE, Calgary lakehousecalgary.com
1888 Chop House Fairmont Banff Springs, 405 Spray Avenue Banff 1888chophouse.com
Deer Lodge 109 Lake Louise Drive, Lake Louise crmr.com/deer/
Royale 730 17 Avenue SW, Calgary royaleyyc.ca
Azuridge Estate Hotel 178057 272 Street W, Foothills azuridgehotel.com
Maple Leaf Grill 137 Banff Avenue, Banff banffmapleleaf.com
Teatro 200 8 Avenue SE, Calgary teatro.ca
The Calgary Petroleum Club 319 5 Avenue SW, Calgary calpeteclub.com
Maple Leaf Grill
The Calgary Petroleum Club 30 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
Best Italian List
Presented by the Italian Trade Commission Can there be any restaurant, hotel or bar in Alberta that doesn’t pride itself on its selection of Italian wines and spirits? Now it’s second year, this prestigious award attracted numerous entries, and not only from Italian Restaurants. Alberta loves "Tutto Italiano", so all the more power to Cardinale for championing this category this year with an exciting and inviting list of wines, spirits, vermouths and amari - salute! Linda Garson
Hy’s Steakhouse & Cocktail Bar At The Core, 8 Avenue & 3 Street SW Calgary hyssteakhouse.com Pulcinella 1147 Kensington Crescent NW, Calgary pulcinella.ca Bread and Circus Trattoria 616 17 Avenue SW, Calgary breadandcircusyyc.com
Villa Firenze
Courtesy Blush Productions & Photography
DIAMOND AWARD Cardinale 401 12 Ave SE, Calgary cardinale.ca GOLD AWARD Teatro 200 8 Avenue SE, Calgary teatro.ca Villa Firenze 610 1st Avenue NE, Calgary villafirenze.ca
Teatro Cardinale
Bonterra Trattoria 1016 8 Street SW, Calgary bonterra.ca
Pulcinella
Bonterra Trattoria
Bread and Circus Trattoria
Hy’s Steakhouse & Cocktail Bar
Best Beer List Bottlescrew Bill’s Pub has been the epicentre for beer in Calgary since 1985. With over 300 different beers on the list, it’s a great source for local and global brews. The list changes with the times to keep current and stay at the forefront. Customers are encouraged to purchase an Around the World in 80 Beers Passport and travel the world without leaving the bar! I’d be hard pressed to find another place in town with such a vast selection of beer. Laurie MacKay DIAMOND AWARD
Native Tongues Taqueria 235 12 Avenue SW, Calgary nativetongues.ca Wurst 2437 4 Street SW, Calgary wurst.ca
Bridgette Bar
Bear Street Tavern 211 Bear Street, Banff bearstreettavern.ca Container Bar 1131 Kensington Road NW, Calgary containerbaryyc.com
Bottlescrew Bill's Pub 140 10 Avenue SW, Calgary bottlescrewbill.com
Park Distillery
GOLD AWARD Cilantro and Chive 5021 50 Street, Lacombe cilantroandchive.ca National on 17th 550 17 Avenue SW, Calgary ntnl.ca/national-17th/home-ntnl17
Native Tongues Taqueria King Eddy
King Eddy 438 9 Avenue SE, Calgary kingeddy.ca Bridgette Bar 739 10 Avenue SW, Calgary bridgettebar.com
Wurst
Park Distillery 219 Banff Avenue, Banff parkdistillery.com Cilantro and Chive Bear Street Tavern
Bottlescrew Bill's Pub
National on 17th
Container Bar
Best Small List It takes a lot of imagination and talent to create a small list offering the right combination of familiar and more obscure wines. My curiosity usually gets the better of me and I pick the wine I don’t recognize. A small list needs to change frequently so that it’s fresh and exciting for both the new and regular customer. I like to see a range of different styles and price points because sometimes I only want to have one great glass. Laurie MacKay DIAMOND AWARD Tzin Wine and Tapas 10115 104 Street NW, Edmonton tzin.ca
Foreign Concept 1011 1 Street SW, Calgary foreignconcept.ca
GOLD AWARD
Mister Chen’s Asian Brasserie 2004 4 Street SW, Calgary mrchensyyc.com
Two Penny 1213 1 Street SW, Calgary twopenny.ca
Poolside at Hotel Arts 119 12 Avenue SW, Calgary hotelarts.ca/poolside
Bread and Circus Trattoria 616 17 Avenue SW, Calgary breadandcircusyyc.com
Posto Pizzeria & Bar 1014 8 Street SW, Calgary posto.ca
Two Penny Bread and Circus Trattoria
Foreign Concept Posto Pizzeria & Bar
LIFE IS BETTER IN THE ROCKIES Poolside at Hotel Arts
Tzin Wine and Tapas
Best Thematic List These lists feature a theme based on a type of beverage, a region or a cuisine. They offer great opportunities to explore a specific aspect of the wine, beer or spirit world. Goro + Gun does this in style. They offer a short, but carefully curated wine, whiskey, and beer list including many Japanese labels. They top it with an exquisite selection of sakes complete with educational snippets and sake flights to create exciting culinary experiences. RenĂŠe Delorme
Maple Leaf Grill (Canadian) 137 Banff Avenue, Banff banffmapleleaf.com Untitled Champagne Lounge (Champagne) 104, 620 8 Avenue SW, Calgary untitledyyc.com Native Tongues Taqueria (Mezcal) 235 12 Avenue SW, Calgary nativetongues.ca
DIAMOND AWARD
The Derrick Gin Mill & Kitchen (Gin) 620 8 Avenue SW, Calgary thederrickyyc.com
Goro + Gun (Sake) +15 Scotia Centre, 225 - 7 Avenue SW, Calgary goroandgun.ca
Ricardo's Hideaway (Rum) 1530 5 Street SW, Calgary ricardoshideaway.ca
GOLD AWARD
Frenchie Wine Bar (French Wine) 616 17 Avenue SW, Calgary frenchieyyc.com
ANEJO Restaurant (Tequila) 2, 2116 4 Street SW, Calgary anejo.ca
Cardinale
Frenchie Wine Bar
Cardinale (Amaro) 401 12 Ave SE, Calgary cardinale.ca
Native Tongues Taqueria
Goro + Gun
Maple Leaf Grill Untitled Champagne Lounge
ANEJO Restaurant
The Derrick Gin Mill & Kitchen
Ricardo's Hideaway
Best Spirits List Every Beverage Director and Bar Manager must be thinking hard about their spirits list these days. People now expect creative and quality cocktails (my how things have changed from a few years ago!), so a quality and exciting back bar is essential. There’s no excuse for a lacklustre spirits list with such a vast selection of local distillers to support, so congrats to Flower & Wolf on a spirit selection that well covers every category from white to brown! Linda Garson DIAMOND AWARD Flower & Wolf 255 Barclay Parade SW, Calgary flowerandwolfcalgary.com GOLD AWARD Hy’s Steakhouse & Cocktail Bar At The Core, 8 Avenue & 3 Street SW, Calgary hyssteakhouse.com
Waalflower Kitchen & Cocktails 24 4 Street NE, Calgary waalflower.ca
Cleaver 524 17 Avenue SW, Calgary cleavercalgary.com
Flower & Wolf
Cleaver
Waalflower Kitchen & Cocktails
Hy’s Steakhouse & Cocktail Bar
Best Bourbon or Whisk(e)y List Our privatized liquor model (still the only one in Canada) means we have by far the widest selection of products, whether bourbon, American or Canadian, Japanese, Indian, or Scottish examples, it’s a good time to enjoy a dram (or two) at your favourite watering hole. Once again, Calgary’s Buchanan’s tops the list, but Edmonton’s The Bothy was hot on its heels - though all our winners here have well-constructed, thorough lists to tempt you. Tom Firth DIAMOND AWARD Buchanan's Chop House 738 3 Avenue SW, Calgary buchanans.ca
Hy’s Steakhouse & Cocktail Bar At The Core, 8 Avenue & 3 Street SW Calgary hyssteakhouse.com Cleaver 524 17 Avenue SW, Calgary cleavercalgary.com Waalflower Kitchen & Cocktails 24 4 Street NE, Calgary waalflower.ca Modern Steak 100 8 Avenue SE, Calgary modernsteak.ca
Cleaver
GOLD AWARD The Bothy Wine and Whisky Bar 5472 Calgary Trail, Edmonton thebothy.ca Modern Steak
The Bothy
Buchanan's Bill's ChopPub House Bottlescrew
Waalflower Kitchen & Cocktails
Hy’s Steakhouse & Cocktail Bar
Discover
The Y Series I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H PAC I F I C W I N E & S P I R I T S T O F I N D A R E TA I L E R V I S I T L I Q U O R C O N N E C T. C O M / + 6 3 5 8 3 9 (Y Series Cabernet Sauvignon) L I Q U O R C O N N E C T. C O M / + 6 2 4 5 0 2 (Y Series Viognier)
Best Curated List A new category for us this year, and one for the sommeliers! A good drinks list should reflect on the person creating the list. A list chock full of good, interesting, or exciting bottles, ideally with a mix of eclectic and wellknown offerings. These were some of the best lists we evaluated too. Below the name of the restaurant, we’ve identified the person most responsible for such a gem. Tom Firth DIAMOND AWARD Bridgette Bar (Dewey Noordhof) 739 10 Avenue SW, Calgary bridgettebar.com GOLD AWARD Two Penny (Andrea Robinson) 1213 1 Street SW, Calgary twopenny.ca River Café (Bruce Soley) 25 Prince's Island Park SW, Calgary river-cafe.com
Winebar Kensington (Matt Stortz and the Winebar Kensington Team) 1131 Kensington Road NW, Calgary winebarkensington.com Tzin Wine and Tapas (Kelsey C. Danyluk, Glenn Quinn, Cory Levy) 10115 104 Street NW, Edmonton tzin.ca Hayloft (James Hoan Nguyen) 5101 - 403 Mackenzie Way SW, Airdrie haylofton8th.com Pigeonhole (Matthew Leslie) 306 17 Avenue SW, Calgary pigeonholeyyc.ca Buffalo Mountain Lodge (Brad Royale) 700 Tunnel Mountain Road, Banff crmr.com/buffalo
Bridgette Bar
Rge Rd
Rge Rd (Caitlin Fulton) 10643 123 Street NW, Edmonton rgerd.ca Winebar Kensington
Tzin Wine and Tapas
Two Penny Pigeonhole
River Café
Hayloft
Buffalo Mountain Lodge
Best by the Glass Program A good by the glass list provides clients with an opportunity to taste an array of wines without having to buy the bottle or before ordering that bottle. It should be easy to consult, educational to some degree, and have a range of price points. All three Vin Room locations offer this in spades. Whether you are a connoisseur or feeling your way round the wine world, Vin Room’s lists provide both comfort wines and perfect strangers. Renée Delorme DIAMOND AWARD (TIE)
GOLD AWARD
Vin Room’s By The Glass lists are identical or almost identical across their three locations, so they share the Diamond Award!
Fairview Bar and Restaurant (Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise) 111 Lake Louise Drive, Lake Louise fairmont.com/lake-louise
Vin Room Mission 2310 4 Street SW, Calgary vinroom.com
Tzin Wine and Tapas 10115 104 Street NW, Edmonton tzin.ca
Vin Room West 8561 8A Avenue SW, Calgary vinroom.com
The Sensory & Wit Bar 101-300 Old Canmore Road Canmore thesensory.ca
Vin Room YYC Airport Post Security, International Departures (non-USA), Calgary International Airport, 2000 Airport Road NE, Calgary vinroom.com
fresh
new menu & happy hour
Vin Room West
Vin Room YYC Airport
Fairview Bar and Restaurant
Vin Room Mission
Tzin Wine and Tapas
The Sensory & Wit Bar
24 4th St NE, Calgary, AB @waalflowerYYC Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019 39
Best Alberta Content Cilantro and Chive is located in Lacombe, a short drive from either Edmonton or Calgary, and their list is a treasure trove of Alberta craft products - beer, cider, spirits, and even sodas. I recommend grabbing a pint and then studying the list to plan your strategy for your next drink. You can grab a pint of Wood Buffalo Ale from Fort McMurray or head southward and order a stout from Oldman River Brewing in Lundbreck Falls. The craft beverage industry is booming in Alberta! Laurie MacKay DIAMOND AWARD Cilantro and Chive 5021 50 Street, Lacombe cilantroandchive.ca
Cilantro and Chive
King Eddy
GOLD AWARD Bottlescrew Bill's Pub 140 10 Avenue SW, Calgary bottlescrewbill.com King Eddy 438 9 Avenue SE, Calgary kingeddy.ca Park Distillery 219 Banff Avenue, Banff parkdistillery.com
Park Distillery
Tango Bistro 6920 Macleod Trail South, Calgary tangobistro.ca The Bison Restaurant 213, 211 Bear Street, Banff thebison.ca
Bottlescrew Bill's Pub
Tango Bistro
The Bison Restaurant Courtesy Orange Girl
TRADITIONAL ENGLISH GIN
PIONEERS IN GIN DISTILLING NOW AVAILABLE IN ALBERTA PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
S I N C E 176 2
DISCOVER MORE AT WHITLEYNEILL.COM
It's Not How Big Your Greens Are That Counts… It's What They Can Do For You by LEILANI OLYNIK
Microgreens may be tiny but they pack a big flavour punch; they’re nutrient-rich, and you don’t need to be an expert to know how to use them. They’re also quite easy to come by, gracing the shelves at farmers’ markets and local grocery stores. But what ARE they? ‘Microgreen’ refers to an edible plant in its juvenile growth stage - which means when you’re enjoying the pop of flavour of a spicy purple radish microgreen, you’re eating the beginnings of a radish before it’s grown mature leaves and developed the red orb beneath the soil. You may be wondering if sprouts are the same as microgreens since they look remarkably similar, but they’re grown, harvested, and consumed differently. While microgreens are grown in soil and cut when harvested, sprouts are grown in water and generally consumed with the root and seed still attached to them. Dawn Boileau of Sunrise Gardens was one of the first to grow microgreens in Alberta, as a response to massive crop loss caused by hail damage in 2009. Alberta’s all-too-common unpredictable weather caused a shift in
her farming focus to expand on climatecontrolled agriculture. It was a struggle at first to convince people to eat these new greens, but she was devoted to education on the enormous benefit of eating vibrant, nutritious food while supporting a sustainable form of agriculture. The positive response led her to quadruple production, allowing her to support eight employees and as many retail locations, as well as supplying 30 Booster Juice locations with locally grown wheatgrass. And while you may think this is the measure of a successful entrepreneur, what mattered most to Boileau was feeling the sun on her face and her hands in the soil. To strike a more holistic balance, she halved the amount she grew, cut out retail locations, and shifted focus to the relationships with her long-time
42 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
customers at the Old Strathcona Market. An important part of Boileau’s practice now is to educate and empower others by hosting ‘grow-your-own’ workshops, so you too can know the benefit of growing your own food. She has, with her wife Kathryn, cultivated a work-life balance and built a heart-centred life that would inspire anyone. Vanessa Hanel of MicroYYC is another insightful entrepreneur that allowed the seasons to be her guide. In the winter of 2014, she began growing two shelves of microgreens in the basement of her Calgary home. It became clear to her early on that this new venture had a viable growth strategy that required minimal resources and was conducive to being a one-woman show.
In just three years, her microgreens outgrew their humble beginnings and warranted an upgrade to a 1,500 sq ft warehouse space to grow 20 varieties (including living wheatgrass) by six part-time staff members, and a dedicated micro-delivery van! Microgreens are a miraculous crop requiring only around 10 days from planting to harvesting. The trick is to make it all work in synchronicity. Hanel and her staff are immensely talented at what she affectionately calls ‘brain gymnastics’ prepping nearly 500 trays with soil, seeding and watering, and stacking them to allow the germination period. Three to four days later, sprouts pop up and the trays are shifted to grow space under the lights. They mindfully nurture the micro growth over the next few days, hand-watering each tray, monitoring humidity levels, and timing the micro harvest to ensure a superb product to is delivered to eight retailers, farmers’ markets, and local restaurants. David Barchard, an eager urban farmer based in Airdrie, has also built a successful business growing microgreens in the basement of his family home. David, with the help of his wife Kirsten, offers organic micros grown in square feet (not acres) to clients in Airdrie, but also Calgary and surrounding area. The hyper-dedicated dynamic duo behind Micro Acres are the heart and soul behind every Micro Acres task from paperwork, prep and planting to harvest, delivery, and business growth. If that wasn’t impressive
enough, they’re sharing their know-how with the community too as they offer tailored learning sessions and consulting services to those interested in learning how to grow their own micros. Whether you’re just starting out, troubleshooting, or keen to grow your business, you’ll want the Barchard’s by your side. Over the last decade urban microgreen farmers have been sprouting up all over Alberta, so you can feel good about adding more plants to your diet while being a conscious consumer and support local growers too.
Add them to salads, sandwiches, soup, smoothies, a perfectly grilled steak, a crispyedged fried egg… if you can eat (or drink) it, you can add ‘em. Have you started filling your plate with micro, but mighty, greens yet?
Microgreens may be tiny but they pack a big flavour punch
Wife, mother, and food lover, Leilani has a diverse background in digital marketing, writing, and event planning. She can be found buzzing around Calgary Farmers’ Market as their Marketing and Events Specialist.
Courtesy Zandra Thomson
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019 43
September Spirits by TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
Whether you are celebrating back to school or just looking forward to changing seasons, our picks for September are fairly diverse. We have whisky, gins, and vodkas, and perhaps the unifying thread is that these are spirits to enjoy outdoors.
Nickel 9 Hidden Temple Gin, Canada There’s a lot to like about Temple Gin – the glass stopper; the beautiful label; the really soft and creamy mouth-feel; the orange peel, juniper, and coriander aromas that greet you, following on to spruce and cedar, bergamot and grapefruit – and that it’s made from apples grown in orchards in Newcastle, Ontario. Ideal if you’re gluten-free! CSPC +816858 Around $50
Collective Arts Rhubarb and Hibiscus Gin, Canada
The most delicate hint of pink piques your curiosity with this one-off seasonal gin, and we can’t wait to sip it when we discover it’s Whether by a roaring fire or sipping a cocktail rhubarb and hibiscus. There’s been a lot of rhubarb dishes on menus this year and on the patio during the closing days of summer – it’s a great time to get outside and now here it is in liquid form, aromatic and try something new… before you know it, those intriguing, with a warming sensual finish – ginger? Chill (you and the gin), sip and enjoy. days might not be so nice! CSPC +816851 $55-58
Signal Hill Canadian Whisky
Hailing from St. John’s, Newfoundland, this blend of corn-based (double distilled) and barley whisky (pot still) is a whisky that evolves as it warms in the glass. Rich, sweeter characters from the corn along with a mild nuttiness and caramel finish make for a smooth, sipping glass suitable for a number of cocktails. CSPC +800776 About $38-42
Belvedere Lake Bartezek and Smogóry Forest Single Estate Rye Vodkas, Poland
Proof that terroir isn’t just for wine. Belvedere has released two single estate rye vodkas both made form Dankowskie Diamond Rye – grown in northern Poland where the winters are long and cold (sound familiar?) for Lake
Bartezek, and in the woodlands of Western Poland, protected from the unforgiving winters, for Smogóry Forest. Perfect for cocktails, we’d suggest not serving either of them too cold so you can taste the differences without inhibiting the flavours: yeasty rye bread, a little mint, and your freshly mown lawn for Lake Bartezek, and pretzel bun salinity and yeastiness, with a hint of pepper and sweetness too for Smogóry Forest. Who knew? CSPC +806001 Lake Bartezek $62-$65, CSPC +806002 Smogóry Forest $62-$65
Romeo’s Gin Edition 01, Canada
Another beautiful bottle you’ll want to pick up and touch, Romeo’s Gin, from Montreal, has an absolutely enticing, fresh bouquet of cucumber and lemon, followed by lavender, almonds and dill, and tastes exactly like it smells - as you’d hope. Sip it neat and you’ll be rewarded; it’s a perfect martini. And some of the profits go to democratizing contemporary art… CSPC +800147 $40-43
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738 3rd Ave. SW, Calgary 403-261-4646
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403.670.7387 1126 Memorial Dr NW oxbowyyc.ca
Making The Case: In Search of the Endless Summer by TOM FIRTH I love living in Alberta; aside from a normally brutal winter, our spring is fleeting, sure, but our summers are usually near-perfect. Not too many rainy days once summer arrives, little to no insect pests crashing our barbecues, and an abundance of sunny days well into October.
Forgotten about zinfandel in your vinous journey? Reawaken the palate with one of the truest expressions of the grape. Bursting with fresh berry fruits (with a pinch of blueberry) loads of spice and a wild, brambly fruit tone. Helluva good wine for barbecued meats or take out pizza. CSPC +710681 About $27-29
September can be a bit of a mixed bag, but what I love most are the warm days with clear skies, but cool early mornings and evenings. I still want to have a drink on the deck, but I might have a light jacket handy.
Laughing Stock 2017 Viognier Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
For September’s wine picks, I felt it best to focus on clean, summery white and red wines that fit that criteria. Good to drink on the patio, but also good with dinners suiting those cooler evenings. Enjoy!
One of the great white wine grapes of the world, viognier is no wallflower, rarely inexpensive, the good ones over-deliver ageworthiness and an abundance of floral and stone fruit character. Peaches, white blossom, mineral, and so much more, the palate is exuberant, dialed in, and frickin’ delicious. CSPC +752409 About $36-39
Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate. Black Hills 2017 Nota Bene Okanagan Valley, British Columbia Eagerly anticipated by fans of Canadian wine, Nota Bene is one of the barometers of quality in the Okanagan. The blend is built around cabernet sauvignon and merlot with a hefty dose of cabernet franc for good measure. The wine is really young right now, so decant it or wait at least five years to really enjoy the spice and black fruits, those velvety tannins and black licorice that goes on for days… or drink it now but keep a few for the cellar- it’s going to shine. CSPC +708073 $67-70 Tom Firth is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. His poor office is home to hundreds of bottles of all shapes and sizes.
Seghesio 2017 Zinfandel Sonoma, California
Culmina 2016 Decora Riesling Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Tom is a
freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge.
I’m one of those that tends to focus on Culmina’s lovely grüner or their rosé, but please don’t overlook the excellent riesling. Flinty and racy with lime and green apple aromas, the palate is lean and polished with some sweetness, but zesty acids bring everything into balance. Drink or keep, I’d pair against great riesling from anywhere else in the world. CSPC +794743 $34-37
Schug 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma, California
Tsantali 2016 Klima Klima Organic Assyrtiko, Halkidiki, Greece
Kunde 2015 Zinfandel Sonoma, California
I could drink this all day (and into the night). A bright and modern style of sauvignon blanc completely different from New Zealand examples. Loads of melon and lime fruits, crisp acids (but not overwhelming) and an easy, crushable experience from start to finish. Pairings? Not even required. CSPC +709298 About $24-25
One the indigenous white grapes of Greece, assyrtiko is capable of producing high acidity in hotter climes. Look for lemon and honeysuckle with clean, dried herb notes on the nose and a layered and fresh palate. Smooth and refreshing, this will do very well with grilled seafoods or lighter poultry dishes. CSPC +793963 About $21-24
A standout zinfandel from a top estate in California – leading off with all the classic zinfandel characters but slightly… restrained, allowing more of those wild fruit and wild flower notes to shine through. Drink or keep, but try to serve with grilled or smoked meats that might have a sauce or gravy served alongside. CSPC +722895 $29-31
Bellingham 2017 Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Coastal Region, South Africa
JoieFARM 2017 A Noble Blend Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Seghesio 2014 Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma, California
One of the closest things to a “modern classic” in Canadian wine, JoieFARM’s Noble Blend is a treasure any time of year, but of particular relevance during the warmer months. Bright and bursting with tropical fruits and citrus. Off-dry but with wellbalanced acids, this is a beautiful pairing with grilled seafood, poultry, or even a salty snack. CSPC +138263 About $33-36
Although the term “old vine” isn’t legislated, for the Seghesio family it’s a minimum 50-year old vine. Older vines produce fewer, but more nuanced, higher quality berries. Look for intense aromatics, spicy, herbal characters and juicy fruits. Will age well, but also pairs wonderfully with kebabs, homemade burgers, and Hawkin’s Cheezies (trust me). CSPC +524264 $55-58
Made from hand-selected grapes, sourced from approximately 40-year old vines, this is a stunning bottle of chenin. Oozing with honey and lemons on the nose with a deft touch of mint leaf, the palate is tightly wound with great tension between seductive tropical fruits, mild vanilla tones, and stunning mineral character. Fantastic. CSPC +742261 About $23-26
Nederburg 2017 Heritage Heroes “Anchorman” Chenin Blanc, South Africa
Craggy Range 2018 Te Muna Road Chateau Tour Des Gendres 2017 Pétillant Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Naturel, Bergerac, France
Nederburg is well-known in our market as a premium producer in South Africa and the Heritage Heroes tier is one of their finest. Grapes are sourced from vineyards in Paarl and Darling, and vinified in four different batches before final blending. Beautiful juice lies in this bottle with silken textures, honey, lanolin and wooly notes - deep, expressive, and tasty. CSPC +818498 $19-21
Craggy Range has been making unapologetic, quintessentially New Zealand sauvignon blancs for some time. It had been a few years since I had them since they were so classic, but what a treat to try this again recently. Limes and grapefruits, with slightly candied melon, and that fresh cut grass NZSB is all about. Perfectly balanced, a pleasure for the palate. CSPC +614420 $25-28
Pétillant Natural, or Pet Nat as it’s becoming known, is the ancestral method of making sparkling wine. Summed up, it’s wine that is bottled before the fermentation is complete, the wines are fizzy, a little rustic, and the hot “new” thing in wine. A sauvignon blanc/ chenin blend, this wine defines authenticity with apple driven fruits, dense mineral character, and a long, tart finish. Delicious. CSPC +802822 About $22-25
Etcetera...
Zak Organics Crunchy Peas A great example of know where your food comes from, 4th generation family farmers, Zak Organics of Moose Jaw SK, grow the peas (non GMO), turn them into a crunchy, flavourpacked snack, and even package them themselves! Choose from Sea Salt & Lime, Smoky BBQ, Garden Herb, or Mango Habanero. 112 g bag $5 at Blush Lane Organic Markets, Planet Organic Market, and London Drugs.
Borderland Food Bone Broths
Flourish Protein Pancake Mixes
Another feel-good story, Borderland Food Co’s founder is a registered addiction nurse, and her team are people recovering from addictions – and they make excellent bone broths! Choose Chicken, Beef, Bison, or Turkey (and there’s a bone broth for your dog too!) $11-12, widely available across Alberta at Blush Lane, Calgary Co-op, Save On Foods, Sobeys, and other good markets.
Whip up quick and tasty breakfasts loaded with 23 g of protein in three yummy chocolate, vanilla, or buttermilk pancakes. We can safely attest to their tastiness and the speed at which breakfast (or lunch - who are we to judge?) can be on the table. They might not replace your scratch recipe, but might be your new fallback breakfast of champions. $11-$13, at Safeway and Save on Foods.
Grainworks Organic 7-Grain Cereal
Are You Afraid of the Dark Rum?
A wonderful addition to your breakfast pantry, and it comes from Vulcan. Made from organic and non-GMO grains, the 7-grain cereal delivers hearty flavour, a little crunch, and a belly-filling meal. Perfect for cooler mornings (we like putting fresh berries on top too), or backcountry dining. Find it at Community Natural Foods, Planet Organic, Sobeys, and other markets, $8-9
Recipes + Ramblings by a Girl from the Prairies Beverly A. Sandalack is a local landscape architect and University of Calgary professor, and has self-published this charming collection of recipes inspired by locally bought or produced ingredients, and drawn from her three passions: drawing, traveling, and cooking. The recipes are easy to make at home, and brought to life by her lovely little stories. $35 at Knifewear, Owl’s Nest, and other local stores.
48 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
If you’re a 90s kid who grew up on MTV or you’re just in the mood for some fun and cheeky cocktails, this is the book for you! The cocktails are approachable and varied, and they will keep you reminiscing until Full House gets another revival. By Sam Slaughter, Andrews McMeel Publishing $15 RECIPES + RAMBLINGS by a
Girl from the Prairies
Beverly A. Sandalack
What’s
COOKING FALL CLASSES Sign-up for a culinary adventure today with the Blue Flame Kitchen! Let our talented chef instructors guide you through a fun and entertaining cooking experience. Our cooking classes are in a variety of styles, and in a range of themes; from bread-making, to Spanish cuisine, to Thai street food. Whether you’re joining us for a kids PD day camp, or an elegant adults only chef’s table; if you’re just a beginner or if you’re a seasoned chef the Blue Flame Kitchen has something for you! Give us a call at 403-245-7630 or book online at ATCOBlueFlameKitchen.com
SEPTEMBER CLASS HIGHLIGHTS HANDS-ON: CAKES MADE EASY SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 7
LUNCH ‘N LEARN: LOUISIANA HOME COOKING THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 19
HARVEST SALE MARKET Stock up on the last of summers treasures from handmade artisan goods, to freshly baked treats, to beautiful produce, this market is going to be the perfect welcome to autumn. DATE: SEPTEMBER 14TH TIME: 9 A.M. – 2P.M.
ATCOBlueFlameKitchen.com or call 403 245 7630
CHEF’S TABLE: THE SPANISH TABLE SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 28
for CBC Radio, and in 2006 launched her tour business, growing organically and very gradually, and hiring guides as it grew. Edmonton tours followed in 2016 and later that year, after raising $21,000 from an ATB crowdfunding campaign, she expanded to Canmore. In 2017, while researching for her book, Food Artisans of Alberta, she interviewed Executive Chef JW Foster at Fairmont Banff Springs, and was blown away by how authentic they were with 25 apprentices and 150 chefs extensively supporting around 25 local farms. She wanted to run a food tour and tell the history of Banff and the hotel, and is thrilled that her “Eat The Castle” tour has just been approved as a Canadian Signature Experience.
Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by DONG KIM
“I'm a ‘momtrepreneur.’ I grew the business as I grew my son; he's six-foot four and 220 pounds now - so my business is getting big like him,” laughs Karen Anderson, President and CEO of Alberta Food Tours. It has been a convoluted journey for the little girl who grew up in Saint Andrew's, New Brunswick, with a grandfather who had a fish market and another who was an organic market gardener. One uncle kept pigs and another had milking cows, so she grew up knowing where every bit of her food came from. “And we always had three great homemade meals every day,” she says. Gaining a master's degree, Anderson worked as an adult health nurse practitioner in Boston, USA. She was in nursing for 21 years, but on returning to Alberta, she found she was with people that had diseases caused by food - either obesity or a poor diet. “They didn't have cooking skills,” she says. “We are about three generations where there hasn't been someone cooking in the home,
and I was seeing the ill effects of that. After having my family I tried to keep nursing, but my heart wasn't in it anymore. I wanted to influence that.” Anderson had done a food tour in Boston, and would shop in the six stores of that district where she had built relationships, which started her thinking of running food tours in Calgary, and creating connections where people would favour local businesses. She volunteered for Slow Food and ran Feast of Fields several times with 25 chefs, 75 farmers, 250 guests, and 100 volunteers. “It was like running a wedding every summer,” she laughs. She started writing and became a columnist
50 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - September 2019
Now with eight tours in four cities, and 19 guides including Japanese, French, and Spanish speaking, Alberta Food Tours is ready to host the world. What bottle is Anderson saving for a special occasion? She has two bottles - one deeply personal and one very professional, and explains: “I consider myself an ambassador for Alberta's food and drink community, so I've taken wild rice to India, brassica mustard to France, and I take canola oil every time I go to New Brunswick to my family.” “I have a bottle that my husband and I bought that’s in the top 1 percent of wines in the world – a 1999 Gaja barbaresco. That was the year our son was born, and this question has made me think, ‘why ARE we waiting’? We lost our first child so we don't take it for granted. And he'll graduate in two years, if all’s well.” But a bottle that Anderson feels really special about is Eau Claire Distillery’s Saskatoon Berry and Honey Gin, and she'll be taking it next year to her partner company in India. “I've taken Eau Claire whiskey to them and they loved it,” she says. “But I thought India and gin go hand in hand, so I'll take it with me and open it with my friends, and have an Alberta gin and tonic there.”
now open MOUNT ROYAL IN CALGARY
corner of 16 t h a v e . & 8 t h s t. S W 7 a m - 10 p m e v e r y d a y
Photos are for illustrative purposes only. A division of Save-On-Foods LP, a Jim Pattison business. Proudly Western Canadian Owned and Operated.
A FULL BODIED Cabernet Sauvignon with luscious flavours of ripe PLUM, seamlessly balanced with hints of TOASTY oak.
Big, BUTTERY and BOLD. Our Chardonnay reveals classic vanilla oak flavour and a MELLOW palate. An astoundingly smooth character.
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