Culinaire #9.4 (October 2020)

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C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Making the Most of the Harvest BY KEANE STRAUB I PHOTOGRAPHY BY DONG KIM

O

ne of the best ways to take in the sights, the smells, and the tastes at this time of year is to head to local farmers markets. Alberta farmers grow amazing produce from blue oyster mushrooms, to bok choy, to sea buckthorn, and everything in between. And, as more local restaurants are using locally sourced ingredients, we Albertans have the advantage of being able to discover new things with every meal, while supporting local restaurants and farmers. It’s a great feeling, especially at such a bountiful time of year. Even though we’re maybe not dining out as much these days, we can still find ways to make new discoveries in our kitchens at home. This month we talked to four Alberta chefs about sourcing ingredients right here in Alberta, namely veggies (and fruit!), and how to incorporate them into a main dish. Say goodbye to veggies at the side of the plate; these greens – and bright oranges, and vibrant reds, and mellow yellows – are the main attraction.

While the menu can change depending on the availability of an ingredient, or the kitchen staff needing to shake things up, Bar Von der Fels, in Calgary, has one goal according to Chef Douglas King. “We want our guests to leave the restaurant feeling like they’ve had an experience that can’t be recreated at home.” The constant on the menu is the Hasselback Potatoes, Fogo Island Crab, 10 Culinaire | October 2020

and Brown Butter, combining crispy potatoes, and an addictive brown butter sauce. When Fogo Island Fishery in Newfoundland stepped in and added the snow crab, King says it “took the dish to another level.” Now, we can’t all get Fogo Island crab, but we can still find plenty of local goodies to incorporate into our home cooking. King is big on research, and points out that every farmer’s market in Alberta has an updated list of vendors on their websites. And, most importantly, talk to the vendors about their farming practices and what they specialize in. “Once you’ve found a farm that has beautiful baby leeks or cauliflower, hit the internet and become inspired with techniques and recipe ideas,” he suggests. It was King’s discovery of the melons from Mans Organics – based in Coaldale, Alberta, and available at Blush Lane Organics in the Calgary Farmer’s Market – that inspired this refreshing take on cantaloupe with a chilled spritz of Oolong tea served at the start of a meal. Who says fruit is just for smoothies?

Mans Organic Cantaloupe with Oolong and Lime Serves 4-6

1 medium-sized cantaloupe 1/3 cup plus 1 Tbs (100 mL) water 1 Tbs sugar 1 stalk lemongrass, chopped, white part only 1 Kefir lime leaf or the zest of one lime 1 lime, juiced 1 bag Oolong tea 1 cup (250 mL) water Crushed ice 1. Using a serrated knife, remove the skin from the cantaloupe and portion into wedges, removing seeds and membrane. 2. Place water, sugar, lemongrass, and lime leaf or zest into a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add lime juice. Chill. 3. Brew one serving of Oolong tea and chill. 4. Add lime mixture to tea and brush over melon slices. Serve on a bed of crushed ice.


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