Culinaire #3:4(september 2014) by Culinaire Magazine

CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 3 NO.4 :: SEPTEMBER 2014

Back To School and back to our desks..

BUSINESS LUNCHES NEVER LOOKED SO GOOD!

Buzzworthy Bees | Digging Up The Dirt On Veggies | Wine Apps

Where City eleganCe Meets Country CharM

Fish Creek Park - 15979 Bow Bottom Trail SE, Calgary, AB | 403.476.1310 RancheYYC info@bvrrestaurant.com | www.bvrrestaurant.com |

Craving Something healthy?

7207 Fairmount Drive SE Calgary

403-252-2083 | www.cravingsmarketrestaurant.com @cravingsyyc /cravingsmarketrestaurant

12 24 17

VOLUME 3 / ISSUE #4 SEPTEMBER 2014

Features 12

Hive Mind Eliese Watson is building community through bees with her win-win-win hive management and educational business. by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Find Your Best: Business Lunch Dining while talking shop by Laura Lushington, Diana Ng, Linda Garson, and Dan Clapson

40 Yes, It Is All About Mead Mead is creating a new buzz by David Nuttall

Yummmmm Veggie Pizza A quick, easy and tasty veggie pizza base by Natalie Findlay

34 Can Wine In Kegs Find Its Legs? Direct-to-glass systems for fresh wine by Tonya Lailey 38 Rituals Of The Cork The smart wine-lover’s guide by Keith Robinson

Keeping The City Fresh And Filling For nearly ten years The Coup has been satisfying carnivores and herbivores alike with their keep-it-simple approach. by Fred Malley CCC

Power In Your Palm A smartphone in your pocket, and you’re never left wondering which bottle to buy with these five wine apps. by Peter Vetsch

Departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

42 Making the Case Great tastes from around the world by Tom Firth

Event Previews

Book Reviews

44 A Nice Beer at Dinner The art of pairing beer and food by Meaghan O’Brien

Ask Culinaire

Soup Kitchen

Chefs’ Tips and Tricks!

Reviving Your Tastebuds… Traditional drinking vinegars and shrubs by Sheryl Normandeau

16 Menu Gems

20 Step-By-Step Ratatouille 50 Open That Bottle Olivier Reynaud of 28 8 Ways to Spice Up Rouge Restaurant Brown Bag Lunches by Linda Garson Front cover photography by Ingrid Kuenzel, with thanks and appreciation to Executive Chef Sandi Voerman of Taste Restaurant for the mouthwatering and photogenic BBQ brisket, slaw, Dijon aioli and fried egg on a challah bun, tomato, basil and goat cheese salad, and cherry pie.

Letter From The Editor

What a great summer we’ve had this year, I hope you’ve been able to take advantage of the gloriously hot days and warm, long nights - maybe some outdoors eating and sipping too.

From Culinaire readers:

September is the most welcoming time of year for me (is it true that your birth month is always your favourite time of year?). I get very excited at the abundance of ripe produce in our markets and using freshly picked local veggies. It’s heart-warming to see the rebirth of interest in bees and honey locally too – who knew our province is the fifth largest honey-producing region in the world? We have stories for you about the people that do know.

“I wanted to congratulate your team for all their hard work. It does not go unnoticed. I live in Golden but make trips to Calgary for shopping and eating purposes. I rely on your magazine for info on where to go but also for inspiration. I love to cook and eat and drink and travel. I love that it connects all cultures; we can speak the same language with food. Thanks again from your Golden fan!“ Aly B, Golden

And now we’re all back to school and back at our desks, so we have lots of suggestions for making the most of the season, and to give you something to look forward to at midday!

“I am an X-Calgarian. For the past 15 years we have lived in Mexico. I was at a local wine shop, not long ago in Calgary and picked up your magazine. I have read it and dissected it from cover to cover. I love all the information, the critiques on restaurants and recipes! Continued success! Felicidades!” Monica M, Mexico

Cheers, Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief

presents the

‘Elite Chef Series’,

intimate and exclusive dinners with notable chefs as they prepare their last dinner. Our first two events in April and May for this limited availability select series, sold out very quickly, so join us on Thursday September 18th to watch and learn from French Chef Anne Perret, founder of French Paradox in Edmonton, who is coming to Calgary specially for this elite dinner. She is preparing hors d’oeuvres followed by five courses of her absolute favourite dishes, each course paired with a premium wine – and you’ll go home with the recipes!

To reserve your place at this premier evening, visit culinairemagazine.ca or contact linda@culinairemagazine.ca 403-870-9802

Anne Perret, founder French Paradox September 18, 2014 4

Presenting Sponsor

Perfectly placed in the South Okanagan

CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Consulting Publisher/ Keiron Gallagher Advertising: 403-975-7177 keirongallagher@gmail.com Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Digital Media: Mallory Frayn web@culinairemagazine.ca Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Leonard Brown Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay Mallory Frayn Renee Kohlman Ingrid Kuenzel Tonya Lailey Laura Lushington Fred Malley CCC Karen Miller Diana Ng Sheryl Normandeau David Nuttall Meaghan O’Brien Keith Robinson Peter Vetsch

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca. Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Leonard Brown

Leonard hails from South Africa, where he was spoiled with exceptional wine, culturally diverse foods and horticultural magnificence. On becoming a master gardener at the Calgary Zoo, he soon realized that what he took for granted has to be achieved with hard work, commitment, patience and passion in Calgary. Leonard grows fruits and vegetables, and is always willing to experiment, combining edibles from his garden with other ingredients.

< Laura Lushington

Calling Calgary home all of her life, Laura is a Bachelor of Communication from MRU’s Journalism program. Growing up knee-deep in cookies, ice cream and her Babcia’s Nanaimo bars, Laura’s diet is now full of vegetables and whole grains after realizing how greatly what we eat affects our health. She prefers baking to cooking, and can be found putting muffins into the oven at midnight. Follow her at @LauraLushington and lauralushington.com

< Peter Vetsch

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night, pursuing his vinous passion by maintaining his own wine blog at popandpour.ca. He has earned his formal wine accreditation through the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET), where he obtained both Intermediate and Advanced Certificates with Distinction, and he is always on the lookout for the next way to learn about and experience wine (and the next good bottle to try).

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine. ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

erfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, Tinhorn Creek overlooks the old gold mining creek that is the winery’s namesake. We are environmental stewards of 150 acres of vineyards: “Diamondback” on the Black Sage Bench, and “Tinhorn Creek” on the Golden Mile Bench. Both provide us with the fruit to craft the superb, terroir driven wine that we’re known for. Our top tier Oldfield Series represents the finest of each vintage.

www.tinhorn.com

Salutes … Happy Birthday Westin Calgary

Good luck Rupert!

…who opened their doors as the 12-storey Calgary Inn on September 10, 1964, and are fifty years young this month!

Calgary Golf & Country Club’s Chef Rupert Garcia is representing Canada to compete at the 2014 Concours International des Jeunes Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition on September 5 in Durban, South Africa.

World’s Most Imaginative Bartender Congrats to Lee Peppinck, head bartender at The Living Room restaurant, who represented Canada at the Bombay Sapphire World’s Most Imaginative Bartender Competition in London, England, and won People’s Choice Award with his Cucumber Sour cocktail! Yum!

Rupert Garcia

Honour for the Okanagan! B.C.’s Okanagan Valley has been voted the second best wine region to visit, after Alentejo in Portugal, amongst 20 worldwide nominees by the USA Today Readers’ Choice 2014 Awards!

and Shout Outs … The Block

sharing plates, cock and bull (chicken and steak), 4 puddings and cheese, but with no freezer on site they can run out, as these dishes are good and flavourful. Tempura Kale with Sweet Ginger Dip is addictive and too moreish to share, the Soft Shell Crab Slider is like a full burger and excellent value, and don’t miss the cocktails and desserts!

We’re spoiled for choice… …with so many excellent new Welcome Lava Dining - a brand restaurant openings this summer! new restaurant on 10 Street NW On 4 Street NW, in the old Rembrandts Pub space, The Block is a new family-owned restaurant offering unpretentious local fare. Don’t miss the Salmon Grav Lax (their grandmother’s trusted recipe), a must-try if ever there was one; Roast Cauliflower Croquettes with Curry Aioli; and Arctic Char with crispy skin done right - then come back for the succulent and very moreish Lobster Ravioli! Newly opened Cleaver Restaurant is on 17 Ave at 4 St SW, and has funky, trendy décor with unfussy food and service to match. The menu features 12 6

serving Asian/French cuisine in a very approachable way. Asian Tacos include Confit Duck or Braised Beef Short Rib wrapped in steam buns; Duo of Brome Lake Duck on a bed of Israeli couscous comes with Tokyo Negi Leek Agnolotti; and beautiful to look at as enjoyable to

eat, Miso Glazed Halibut will you have you snapping away on your phone and gaining a multitude of ‘likes’. And last but not least, welcome back Roy Oh and his Anju Restaurant on 17 Ave/4 St SW corner. Happy that we can get our fix of crispy tofu again!

YYC Pizza Week coming soon The creators of YYC Burger Week now bring us Calgary’s first YYC Pizza Week, September 26–October 5. With ‘Neapolitan’ (thin crust), ‘Thick Crust’, and ‘Unique’ categories, 50 Calgary restaurants will battle it out with 15% of all pizza sales going to Meals On Wheels.

New recipe app!

Cleaver Restaurant

iPad and iPhone users will love the new ‘Tavola’ app featuring more than 50 easy and tasty Italian recipes from renowned Chef Daniel Costa‘s Corso 32 and Bar Bricco restaurants in Edmonton, each paired with wine and a music playlist. Download for free at usetavola.com.

WE DELIVER! CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 3 NO.2 :: jUNE 2014

Finding the perFect harmony oF music and Food

Summertime Italian | Canny Brewing | Outdoor Drinking & Dining

C A L G A R Y / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S : : V O L U M E 3 N O . 3 : : J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 4

“WETTING” OUR APPETITES A SEASON OF SEAFOOD

THIRSTQUENCHING BEERS

Summer Sipping | On The Road | Campfire Treats

In today’s busy world, you may not get a chance to pick up every issue of Culinaire. To ensure your copy, go to culinairemagazine.ca to have the next ten issues delivered right to your door. Makes a great gift too! Order today—10 issues for $39+gst.

S TO P I N FOR A BITE .

An exciting new venue for your next corporate event.

403.232.7770 • salesinfo@calgaryzoo.com

September Events ZOOGALA 2014: Gallivant

September 5, Calgary Zoo Tickets: $140 The Zoo’s premier fundraising event, a wine and food festival amongst the animals. After a year’s absence due to the 2013 flood, you can Gallivant though the grounds while being entertained by the Ultimate Chef Challenge and live music. calgaryzoo.com

Calgary Produce Marketing Association’s Harvest Sale

September 6-7, Heritage Park The Calgary Produce Marketing Association and Heritage Park Historical Village partner with the Alberta Children’s Hospital to sell fresh fruit and vegetables at old-fashioned prices to support local charities. heritagepark.ca

Great Canadian Beer Festival September 5-6, Victoria, BC Tickets: $40

by DAVID NUTTALL

Join 8,000 people and over 55 craft breweries from across Canada and the USA in western Canada’s biggest and best outdoor beer festival. gcbf.com

Slow Food’s Feast of Fields

September 14, Rouge Restaurant Garden, 1240 8 Ave SE Tickets: Slow Food Members: $70 Non-members: $90 Slow Food Calgary’s annual salute to the harvest brings food producers and chefs together for a laid back culinary afternoon in the historic garden at Rouge restaurant. slowfoodcalgary.ca

Calgary Oktoberfest

September 26-27, Upper Big 4 Stampede Grounds Friday: 4:00 pm-10:00 pm Saturday: 2:00 pm-9:00 pm Tickets: $19, Weekend Pass: $30 Calgary Oktoberfest returns to celebrate authentic Bavarian and locally

Book Reviews

Annual Okanagan Fall Wine Festival

October 3-13, Okanagan Wine Country, BC From The Westjet Wine Tastings in Kelowna to the Grand Finale Consumer Tastings in Penticton, through the hundreds of tastings, dinners, and other events all through the Okanagan Valley, this is Canada’s premier wine festival. thewinefestivals.com

of trying to make a “Chicken Saladinspired Sandwich Filling”? The salads section is considerable and is a great way to enjoy the fresh ingredients at your local market this time of year. The “South American Sushi” recipe (p. 34) is a wonderful vegan take using your favourite vegetables.

by Carla Kelly Arsenal Pulp Press 2014

The best section of the book is definitely “Sauces” - salsas, hummus, BBQ sauces and jams all great additions to any

produced beers. Add in oompah bands and fare from Calgary restaurants, and it will almost make you think you were in Munich. Guten Tag! calgaryoktoberfest.com

by KAREN MILLER

Vegan Al Fresco

There are a lot of recipes in this book! Everything you need to prepare and enjoy the bounty of the season, al fresco style. Carla Kelly is a vegan cookbook writer, so beyond the tips on planning your outdoor event, food safety and even games, Kelly sets out a good basics section for vegan recipes, great to have on hand (sometimes the most difficult thing when trying to go vegan) to use in some of your favourite outdoor dining fare.

Calgary Oktoberfest

vegetable dish in your repertoire. The worst part is my pet peeve with vegan cooking, the “inspired recipes”, inspired by things not vegan. Why not just stick to great recipes like the “Grilled Eggplant Sandwich” (p. 101), instead

Vegan cooking can require extra prep work and there is a lot of it in many recipes. However one of the rewards of al fresco dining (vegan or otherwise) is preparing ahead and enjoying the moment afterwards!

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.

Ask Culinaire by LEONARD BROWN

How do I keep my garden “alive” throughout the year?

Throughout the remaining summer days and as the fall begins, there is still a lot to do. Firstly, take photographs for future planning of your garden spaces in the winter months and upcoming spring. Plant bulbs early so that the roots can establish, remove unwanted plants, and share and save fruits and vegetables. Turn compost so that it can be spread on the ground to be used for next year’s crop. Harvesting takes place throughout the summer months, so make sure you enjoy your produce and don’t leave everything till October. Early frosts kill tender vegetables, whilst root vegetables are spared until the ground starts to freeze. Fresh produce can be enjoyed immediately, but there are a number of different ways of keeping your bounty: bottling, canning, freezing and drying. • Herbs can be chopped and frozen in ice cubes for future use.

• Produce such as kale and beet greens can be shredded or frozen whole in bags of water, and used later in soups and casseroles. • Roasted, seasoned kale is a kitchen favourite and economical to do at home. • Squash and zucchini flowers are delicious stuffed with various fillings, and the mature vegetable can be roasted in the oven or on the BBQ, and frozen. • Peas and beans should be enjoyed through the season, as harvesting encourages re-flowering and regrowth. These legumes can be left to mature in the stalks, and the seeds dried and stored in airtight waterproof containers for future use. • Flower and vegetable seeds can be used decoratively as well as the leaves, which you can dry and press. Jams and jellies can be prepared and sealed in airtight sterilized jars; juices and purées can be bottled or frozen.

Fruits and berries make delicious wines and liqueurs when fermented with sugar and yeast, and make excellent gifts. Vegetables and herb seeds can be harvested for future use. Potatoes, and other root vegetables such as beets and turnips, should be dug out and stored in a cool and dry environment. Garden photography makes excellent art, and digital technology provides endless possibilities. Archived images are material for many future projects and portfolios. As the season rushes to a close, empty pots and save the soil; clean, repair, service and discard damaged garden equipment; and create lists of things to do in preparation for next year’s season. When the cold arrives and you are forced inside, embellish the accomplishments of a successful, timeconsuming passion for the garden, and enjoy using everything you have saved.

Soup Kitchen by DAN CLAPSON

This time of year is all about embracing the bounty of your garden. Fresh-out-of-the-soil carrots taste like no other, and when they’re roasted and paired with equally-fresh herbs, it’s almost impossible to believe the amount of flavour that’s bursting out of this pot. It’s the camelina oil that really makes this soup sing and you will be able to find it at quality local grocers like Calgary Co-op or Community Natural Foods. The tomatillo and chipotle add some Mexican flare - and not to mention

spice - but definitely aren’t things you’ll find in the garden. That being said, a spicy, flavourful soup on a warm fall day (I find September is often much nicer than our Augusts here in Calgary) is much more welcome on my table than something creamy and rich.

Chipotle Chicken and Tomatillo Soup

The tomatillo and chipotle add some Mexican flare

1. Place the first 8 ingredients in a medium pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat. Let cook for 10 minutes.

2. Add brown rice to the pot, cover

and continue to cook for 25 minutes, uncovering occasionally to stir.

3. Next add chicken meat, tomatillo Serves 4 Total cook time 40 minutes 4 cups (1 L) chicken stock 2 cups (500 mL) water 1/3 cup canned chipotle peppers, finely chopped 1 red onion, thinly sliced 1 lime, zest and juice 1 Tbs brown sugar 10

2 tsp chilli powder 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 1/2 cup uncooked brown rice 4 chicken thighs, cooked and roughly chopped 2 tomatillo, halved and thinly sliced 8 radishes, thinly sliced 1/4 cup fresh cilantro, loosely chopped salt and pepper

and radishes to the pot and let cook until the radishes and tomatillo have softened, about 3-4 minutes.

4. Finally, stir in the fresh cilantro,

season with salt and pepper, and serve. Note: If you can’t handle the heat, garnish the soup with a few spoonfuls of sour cream!

Garden Carrot and Fresh Herb Soup Serves 3-4 Total cook time 45 minutes

Preheat oven to 400º F

8 large carrots, trimmed and halved canola oil 4 cups (1 L) vegetable stock 2 Tbs (30 mL) Three Farmers camelina oil 2 cups (500 mL) water 1 Tbs (15 mL) white wine vinegar 2 tsp (10 mL) lemon juice 2 tsp (10 mL) liquid honey salt and pepper 1 Tbs flat leaf parsley, finely chopped 1 Tbs fresh dill, finely chopped 1 Tbs fresh basil, finely chopped 1 Tbs fresh chives, finely chopped 2 tsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped

baking tray, drizzle with canola oil and let roast in the oven for 25 minutes.

1. Place halved carrots on a large

2. Once roasted, let cool slightly,

transfer to a blender along with the vegetable stock and camelina oil. Puree carrot mixture until very smooth, approximately 2 minutes.

3. Pour contents into a medium pot,

add in water, vinegar, lemon juice and honey, and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat. Let simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Season to taste with salt and It’s almost impossible to believe the amount of flavour that’s bursting out of this pot

pepper, stir in the fresh herbs and serve immediately.

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside

Hive Mind: Eliese Watson Builds

Community Through Bees

Eliese Watson is on a private property in the NW of the city, close to the Bow River. She releases some smoke towards a tiered hive box, with small honey bees (much smaller than the bumble bees you’ll find in your backyard) buzzing in and out, before lifting the lid to replace frames that had been extracted of their honey the day before. 12

story by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH Photography by INGRID KUENZEL

The box is labeled with the logo for the Ox and Angela restaurant—the proud owner of the bees, the hive, and any honey this particular colony of bees produces. Watson has been running A.B.C. (Apiaries and Bees For Communities) for five years, and while bees are how she makes her living, she doesn’t bottle or sell honey. Instead, she’s an educator and a community builder who, along with the rest of her team at A.B.C., teaches new beekeepers the ins-andouts of managing hives, while working with the larger urban community to

create awareness of bees’ place in our ecology. “The Bees 4 Communities project is about trying to offer people opportunities to get in and learn and build community,” Watson says. “Because you open up that beehive and you see a social environment of individuals working together in cohesion for generations in the future. And when they take from nature they give back in exponential form.” If you eat out a lot in Calgary, you’ve probably tasted honey bees that Watson

works with. Her Bees 4 Communities program pairs businesses like Calgary Food Tours, Una Pizza and Wine, Rouge, the Fairmont Palliser and the Hyatt Regency, to name a few. The hives are placed on private property, owned by bee-friendly people who want the ecological benefits of having the bees on their land and near their gardens. From there, Watson and her team care for the bees and harvest the honey. The businesses receive “report cards,” blog posts, and any honey that their bees produce. As part of the deal, Watson uses their hives to run beekeeping

Beekeeping is becoming an increasingly popular hobby for food enthusiasts

education and apprenticeship courses. Everyone in the equation — the businesses, the landowners, and Watson’s business — wins. “What makes it a community based project is that these hives are used as educational tools,” explains Watson. “They’re placed where I want them to go and they’re always the best honeyproducing areas I can find, locations that allow for us to have some groups to come, I’ve had 30 or 40 people here before. Places where they have no quarrel with us bringing people here.” The Bees 4 Communities partnerships are only a small part of what A.B.C. do. Watson and her crew also hold a number of courses, Hive2Hive bicycle tours where participants can bike to the program’s various hive sites, Field Days (fun, affordable afternoons out where participants can take a peek at what beekeeping entails), a more intensive mentorship program, and more. Watson and her crew also offer private hive management for both residential and commercial clients, which fall outside of her community-driven Bees 4 Communities program.

While Watson’s business has a lot of different projects on the go, the driving force behind all of them is the same: Watson’s mission to spread the word about beekeeping and ensure that everyone she works with manages their bees in a responsible way. “You’re basically overseeing an entire civilization,” Watson points out. “Each hive is its own civilization. As a beekeeper, my responsibility is to make sure that these bees survive the season, to manage and control disease, and because honey bees are non-native to North America, for us to ensure their survival and propagation. It’s really imperative that we’re honourable to their life cycle and behavioural patterns. And also that we do our best to understand, observe, and then act.” With urban beekeeping on the rise, beekeeping is becoming an increasingly popular hobby for food enthusiasts (you can even buy beekeeping gear through Williams-Sonoma), and Alberta reportedly being the fifth largest honey producing region in the world, Watson is seeing an increase in the number of beekeepers, be they hobbyists, small batch commercial producers, and businesses that keep bees either to use the honey in restaurants or to give as gifts to their clientele. Watson says the practices of these small-scale beekeepers — who tend to avoid antibiotics and chemicals and take a more holistic approach to bee management — are influencing the

behaviour and philosophies of larger honey producers. She’s also seeing that keeping bees often changes the way her clients approach the world around them, both in the way they look at issues of sustainability and their community. “Beekeeping is the most political thing that you can do,” Watson says. “Becoming a beekeeper you become aware of all of these socio-political issues that you previously ignored or weren’t aware of. And then you start to have an opinion. And when people have an opinion, they want to share it.” backyardbees.ca Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, and co-founder/co-editor of RollingSpoon.com. She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs.

Chefs' Tips Tricks! Vegetables, they don’t always get the best rap, do they? Mom never once had to ask you to scarf down that chocolate bar, that’s for sure. Sometimes you can’t help but feel sorry for vegetables. With some people, they don’t even get a chance. If you grow up expecting to dislike them, you are never going to give them the time of day. If you are a sceptic now, you definitely won’t be after these helpful hints from local chefs that are known for working their magic with vegetables. Given that Alberta-raised vegetables are at their peak, you don’t have to work too hard to make them taste amazing. Here’s how you can get started.

Corporate Chef Andrew Keen, Vintage Group “To me there is nothing better than fresh, perfectly cooked carrots.” explains Chef Andrew Keen, who is all about simplicity when it comes to preparing his vegetables. No glazing them with honey or brown sugar or emptying out the spice rack to jazz them up with cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice - we are talking carrots, not carrot cake. Instead he prefers to cook them in their own juices, steaming until tender. Carrots should taste like carrots. His other go-to vegetables are the “old school” (his own words), cauliflower and broccoli. If he is feeling adventurous, he may just switch to broccolini instead. 14 14

story by MALLORY FRAYN photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Just roast them with salt, pepper and olive oil and you are ready to serve, easy as that. Another one of Chef Keen’s tips is to look for what is cheapest at the grocery store. “When it’s cheap it is usually way better [at this time of year]. It’s all about the harvest,” Chef Keen points out. “When they have a terrible harvest you get terrible produce and it’s expensive. If something is cheap at the supermarket, it’s usually a really good product actually.” In the fall months, you will find him loading up on squash, especially his favourite, red kuri. Again, there is no need to get too fancy when preparing it, a straightforward purée with salt, pepper and butter is his method of choice.

When asked what sets a restaurant’s purée apart from that of a home cook, he points to two distinguishing factors. First, you have to ensure that your squash is completely cooked. Overcooking it is fine here as it is going to get puréed anyway. Second, it is critical to purée the squash properly. If you have a high-powered, industrial blender or food processor that should do the trick, but nothing beats an oldfashioned, hand crank food mill. Oh and don’t skimp on the butter or seasoning either! Does it ever verge on being too simplistic? Well, according to Keen, “At the end of the day, it has to taste good. That’s what people are looking for!”

Poêlée Carrots Serves 3-4

Look for Corporate Chef Andrew Keen’s recipes for Roasted Cauliflower at culinairemagazine.ca

450 g peeled carrots 2 tsp Kosher salt 3 Tbs (45 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1 Tbs (15mL) water

In a heavy saucepan, lightly sauté the carrots in olive oil over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the salt and sauté for 3 minutes. Add the water and cover the pot.

Corporate Chef Andrew Keen

Allow the carrots to cook over low heat until fork tender, approximately 20 minutes.

Executive Chef Andrew Winfield, and rubbery. Portabellos especially, River Café and Boxwood Cafe he treats similar to a beautifully aged “It’s hard to get my brain out of the season we are currently in. You kind of fall in love again every time a new season comes around each year,” says Chef Andrew Winfield. This quote whole-heartedly reflects the chef’s mentality when it comes to food. To him and the rest of the people behind sister restaurants River Café and Boxwood Cafe, eating fresh and local isn’t a trend - it’s the norm. Needless to say, he embraces all that nature has to offer, especially vegetables. Alberta is not always thought of for its agricultural bounty but as Chef Winfield points out, “Fall is one of those intriguing times. In Alberta so much is going on. A lot of crops are still finishing. Chanterelles are popping up across Canada. It’s a good time for mushrooms in general. We also tend to get a lot of beans still. A lot of different varieties are popping up.” When it comes to mushrooms, Winfield is an advocate of not over-cooking them, allowing them to retain their juices, rather than becoming tough

Executive Chef Andrew Winfield

steak. Grilling them gill-side up ensures that all of the juices remain cupped in the mushroom, rather than losing the moisture through the grill. Bring them to “medium-rare”, where the centre still retains some of its texture and then let the mushrooms rest so that the juices are reabsorbed.

Eating fresh and local isn’t a trend - it’s the norm

Chef Winfield also loves a perfect tomato. “September is the ideal tomato season. Everyone thinks about summer and tomatoes but realistically it’s more towards late August or early September when they’re at their peak. Certain varieties just need so much heat to produce and that’s why it takes so long to get them ripe.” Nothing is better than a tomato sandwich with a touch of salt in Winfield’s books. Good bread, good tomato, that’s all you need for a satisfying snack or light meal. Gazpacho

Green Pea Gazpacho with Nasturtium Pesto Serves 6

1/2 cup fennel, minced 2 L English peas 1/2 cup small diced onion 3 jalapeno, de-seeded and minced 3 English cucumbers, peeled and diced 1 cup cilantro leaves 1 cup parsley leaves 1/4 cup mint 1 cup (240 mL) light chicken stock 1 L vegetable stock 2 Tbs (30 mL) verjus or grape juice 2 cups ice cubes

is another option that is fresh and cleansing, even on a fall day, while the warm days linger before the frost. Overall when it comes to cooking vegetables, Chef Winfield points out that if you can eat an ingredient raw, you probably don’t need to cook it that much. However, that’s not to say that a carrot cooked so soft that you can cut it with your fork isn’t good. If your end goal is simply to let the vegetables speak for themselves, you are probably already on the right track.

Blanch peas in boiling water for 30 seconds only, remove and submerge in ice water bath for 3 minutes. Drain and reserve 2 cups for garnish. Combine all ingredients together in food processor for 1 minute until smooth. Season well with sea salt.

Look for Executive Chef Andrew Winfield’s recipes for Nasturtium Leaf Pesto at culinairemagazine.ca

Mallory is a food writer and blogger living and learning in Calgary, Alberta. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter @cuzilikechoclat 15

Menu Gems Our restaurants are full of fresh fruit and vegetables at this time of the year, so we asked our contributors for their favourite dishes…

Grilled Grapefruit, Diner Deluxe

Delicately sweetened with rosemary syrup, this juicy, warm, ruby-pink grapefruit is a delicious start or accompaniment to any breakfast. The segments are easily loosened with the special grapefruit knife. It tastes healthy, looks good and is very refreshing. Leonard Brown

Roasted Beet Salad Vin Room (both locations)

I love beets - practically can’t get enough of them. The roasted beet salad starts with great beets, a little goat cheese, and some pistachios bringing a little extra balance to the dish. Perfect to share or as a great starter to a larger meal. Tom Firth

Brûléed Stilton Cheesecake with Rhubarb Compote, NOtaBLE Save room for layers of flavour in this twist on an old standby. I’m not a fan of overly sweet desserts and Stilton gives a bit of edge to this baked cheesecake with a caramelized top. The rhubarb compote’s sweet tartness provides the foil for the richness. And you get to celebrate rhubarb, the prairie spring tonic, year-round, on one of Michael Noble’s signature dishes. Fred Malley

Masala Mogo – Safari Grill

Cassava is my new favourite food and in Calgary, the Safari Grill serves some of the best. Cassava is a root vegetable similar to a potato and often resembles a chunkier French fry, especially when it’s deep-fried and spicy. I think this appetizer is supposed to be shared with friends but I could eat a plate on my own. Laura Lushington 16 16 16

Club Med Salad, The Coup

The Club Med salad at The Coup is one of those salads that puts boring wilted greens to shame. There are so many different flavours and textures going on, that you in no way feel like you are missing meat. Chewy sundried tomatoes, crunchy sprouts and uber-fresh greens definitely make it a vegetable dish to remember! Mallory Frayn

Grilled Veggie Sandwich, Dairy Lane Café

I’m a huge fan of this mighty combination of smoky grilled zucchini, red pepper, and tomatoes tossed together with marinated olives, roasted peperonata, fresh baby spinach leaves and (locally sourced) goat feta on a perfectly toasted baguette. This generously proportioned sandwich packs a seriously juicy wallop of bold, distinct flavours that work beautifully together. My go-to for lunch! Sheryl Normandeau

Niçoise Salade, Cassis Bistro

The world is filled with boring, uninspired Salad Niçoise. Cassis Bistro’s offering reminds us why the classics are classic. No frozen or canned green beans here. Bright fresh, super crunchy haricot vert perfectly balanced with greens and accompaniments - potato, tomato, egg, anchovy and tuna confit. Keith Robinson

Tempura Haricot Vert, Divino Bistro

Sometimes the simplest things are the best. Take fresh green beans, add impeccably light and crispy tempura batter, serve with fireweed honey hot mustard, and you have the perfect appetite-whetter and white wine companion: hot, crunchy, tangy, airy, sweet and eminently shareable. Regardless of what else I’m ordering while at Divino, these always come alongside. Peter Vetsch 16

Find Your Best: Business Lunch by DAN CLAPSON

Whether you’re a freelance web designer or a suited-up, tie and cufflinks sort of business person, everyone has business meetings to attend. There’s a lot to choose from when it comes to enjoying some quality provisions and talking shop/making a deal/whatever the case may be. So, answer these questions to find out which one of four restaurants is likely a good fit for your week. 1. When I’m taking someone out for lunch, the price of my meal… a) is not really an option. I’m putting it on the company card! b) should be reasonable for what we’re getting. c) will hopefully be covered by someone in our group. 2. How much time are you willing to take over lunch to talk business? a) If we get caught up talking, I could stay all afternoon. b) An hour or so is ideal. I’ve got things to do! c) A reasonable amount of time, but I have to get back to the office at some point. 3. What is your drink of choice when the clock strikes noon? a) Whatever is the suggested pairing with the lunch menu.

b) A good glass of wine is always fine by me. c) As long as we wrap with a wellmade Americano, I’m happy. 4. How many people do you typically go on a business lunch with? a) No more than 4, too many side conversations if there’s more than that. b) Usually just one person. c) If it’s a team meeting, 6 or more. 5. What kind of food do you prefer to order if you’re doing business? a) If there’s a set course lunch menu, I’m taking it. b) Nothing messy, just well composed food. c) Sharing plates are always fun! 6. I like atmosphere in a restaurant over the lunch hour to be... a) calm and professional.

b) relaxed, I’m already stressed about this meeting! c) buzzing. It’s always nice to people watch if the conversation gets boring. 7. A restaurant’s proximity to my office is... a) extremely important. I don’t venture far off of Stephen Avenue. b) somewhat important. A healthy walk before lunch is alright by me. c) not that important. My hunger doesn’t like to be restricted to the downtown core. 8. How many business meetings do you usually conduct over the lunch hour? a) Usually 1-2 per week. b) As many as possible. I love killing two birds with one stone. c) Only once in a while so let’s keep it memorable!

people may be in golf shirts and jeans too, but they’re likely still doing business. The servers at Rush are aware of this. Friendly yet discreet, they won’t interrupt your conversation every few minutes. They also know you’re more concerned with your business than understanding the menu, which is why the three-course Express Lunch is so popular. It’s amazing value at $25 with dishes like cream of mushroom soup or roasted golden beet salad with fennel and goat cheese to start, followed by BBQ beef ribs with tempura asparagus and loaded baked potato, and tiramisu.

Rush Ocean Prime (Mostly As) by LINDA GARSON

If your meeting overruns and you’re hungry, or you’re planning to talk business over lunch, then Rush Ocean Prime is the place for you. The beautifully refurbished space offers the same menu in the open-concept

Q Haute Cuisine (Mostly Bs) by LAURA LUSHINGTON

Take your business lunch to the edge of downtown and escape to Q Haute Cuisine. Found along the river just west of Eau Claire Market, this refined eatery will impress your guests with its impeccable service, white linens and mouth-watering dishes. Tossing in some very easy-to-find parking makes this the perfect place if you’re driving downtown for a bite. Chef Michele Aurigemma, known for his molecular gastronomy techniques, has designed an express lunch menu that might just be one of Calgary’s bestkept foodie secrets. For $15, choose a starter (you must try the silky-smooth seasonal soups) and one of six entrées like the perfectly portioned salmon cake or pressed duck confit. If your guest ventures off the express menu, don’t worry! A starter is included with non-express menu items too so as not 18

lounge, as in the elegant dining room with its muted tones and comfy highbacked chairs. You’ll notice diners here are talking, not looking at their phones. There’s no laptops out, and people are drinking wine with their lunch. Dress varies, but in the dining room it veers towards suits, with or without a jacket. In the lounge, to disrupt the flow of your meal. Along with the starter and main course, the easy to choose from by the glass wine list ensures your guests’ taste buds are taken care of from start to finish. If your business lunch requires a private space, Q Haute has meeting rooms to suit your needs as well. Meet and eat, have a sophisticated boxed lunch to-go or even a buffet prepared and delivered straight to the office. This is a five-star business lunch dining without the five-star price tag. 100 La Caille Place SW qhautecuisine.com, @qhaute

Changing daily, Express Menu features include beef stroganoff and fish and chips, but you can also choose off the regular menu, where you’ll find tempting dishes such as Buttermilk Fried Chicken Salad and 7 oz New York Striploin Steak Sandwich. 207 9 Avenue SW, rushoceanprime.com @RushOceanPrime

Mercato (Mostly Cs) by DIANA NG

A landmark in Calgary for over 20 years, Mercato in Mission is as good for business lunches as it is for a laid-back date night, celebratory dinner with friends or a bite before a Flames game. The food is honest and straightforward, a reflection of the traditional Italian dining culture. The open interior is inviting and just loud enough to remind you of the social aspect of the cuisine. On a warm sunny day, enjoy some light dishes on the patio tucked around the corner. Start with a bruschetta, caprese salad or antipasti platter. If you’re immune to the 3 p.m. slump and you want to go for the big attractions, opt for a pasta like the carbonara, meat like the bistecca or any of its seafood dishes, plus a glass from its thorough wine list of boutique old world wines. For a complete experience, round out the meal with the tiramisu. Want to take your business lunch to go? The market next to the dining area offers premium cured meats like

Taste (mix of As, Bs and Cs) There are few places that fit the bill for anything from hipster casual folk (like myself) to downtown, no dickin’ around oil and gas businessmen who want to have some good food while discussing

bresaola, prosciutto and speck; an array of cheeses, everything from soft to hard; fresh vegetables and salads and olives. Pick up everything you need for an elegant meat and cheese board, along with a loaf of bread for a relaxed lunch anywhere, even the boardroom. 2224 4 Street SW mercatogourmet.com important matters at hand. Dressed up or down, whatever the case may be, you can rest assured that this pint-sized establishment just off the corner of 12th Avenue and 1st St will serve you up small plates with smooth and swift service any lunch hour of the week.

The wine list is short, but concise (updated regularly by the experts at neighbouring Vine Arts), they pride themselves on a well-made cocktail and the food speaks for itself. Chef Sandi Voerman embraces the beauty of local ingredients (make sure to order the tomato salad and the elk carpaccio) and keeps her plates light and well balanced so you won’t be craving a catnap once you’re back at the office for the afternoon. If clients and coworkers alike aren’t charmed by the little ‘thank you’ cupcakes that arrive with your bill, then nothing will. 1210 1 Street SW taste-restaurant.com, @tastecalgary 19

Step By Step: Ratatouille story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

Gardens and markets are bursting with beautifully fresh produce. Tomatoes are hanging off vines, zucchini are (I suspect) multiplying overnight, eggplants gleam, and sweet peppers, those jewels of the garden, are waiting to be transformed into something delicious. We wait all year for this bounty, and if we are lucky, there is a surplus of these garden goods. Sure you can be neighbourly and stuff zucchini into mailboxes to help with your personal inventory. I don’t know anyone who would turn down an offering of home-grown tomatoes, but even then, there will come a time when you just have so much, you need to use it up right now. That’s where a dish like ratatouille comes into the picture. From the French verb “touiller” meaning “to stir up”, Ratatouille 20

originated in the area around present day Nice, as a peasant dish cooked up by farmers. There are various ways to make this comforting dish, but I prefer the method of cooking vegetables separately so they retain their individual taste. Making ratatouille is a project for a lazy Sunday afternoon. It’s an easy dish, and does take some time to prepare the vegetables and cook them separately. But once they are all in the pot, mingling away, you just sit back and relax and give the pot a bit of a stir Making ratatouille is a project for a lazy Sunday afternoon

every 20 minutes or so. The longer you cook it, the more of a silky stew it will become. For firmer vegetables, cook it for less time. While it’s perfectly acceptable to eat ratatouille the day it’s made, I prefer it warmed up the next day, after the flavour has developed. Serve warm in a bowl, drizzled with your finest olive oil. Have a hunk of good bread at the ready. You may also toss it with hot pasta, spoon it over polenta, bake eggs in it, and it makes a mighty fine pizza topping. The possibilities are endless! This recipe makes enough to feed a hungry crowd, still with some left over to freeze. Now, isn’t this better than unloading all that zucchini onto unsuspecting neighbours?

they start to turn brown. Add peppers and cook until softened, 5 minutes. Transfer onions and peppers to a large, clean bowl.

4. Add another Tbs (15 mL) olive oil

and sauté zucchini chunks with a bit of salt until zucchini is soft and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to bowl with onions and peppers.

5. Rinse the eggplant under running

water and squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Warm 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil and sauté eggplant until soft, about 10 minutes. Move it to the bowl with other vegetables.

Simple Ratatouille

Serves 8 Total cook time: 1 hour 45 minutes 2 large eggplants 2 large onions, diced 3 sweet bell peppers, chopped 8 medium zucchini, chopped 4 large tomatoes, chopped 1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil ½ cup (120 mL) red wine 6 cloves garlic, minced 2 bay leaves 5 sprigs thyme 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp red chilli flakes 2 tsp (10 mL) honey ½ cup loosely packed fresh basil, sliced into ribbons 3 Tbs (45 mL) balsamic vinegar salt and pepper basil for garnish

1. Chop eggplant into bite-sized

chunks. Place them in a strainer set over a bowl and toss with 1 Tbs salt. Let the eggplant hang out here while you prepare the rest of the vegetables.

2. The vegetables are cooked in

batches, so be sure to place your chopped veg in separate bowls.

6. Deglaze pan with red wine, being

sure to scrape up any brown bits from bottom. Pour this liquid into the bowl with vegetables.

7. Heat 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil in pot

over medium high heat and add minced garlic. Cook until garlic is just golden and fragrant, being sure not to burn it. Add the tomatoes, bay leaves, thyme sprigs, smoked paprika and chilli flakes. As the tomatoes bubble away, be sure to scrape up brown bits from bottom of pot.

8. Add all of the cooked vegetables to pot and stir to make sure everything is evenly mixed.

Bring stew to a simmer, uncovered, then reduced heat to medium low. Stir occasionally; simmer for at least one hour, longer for a more silky stew.

9. Remove bay leaves and thyme

sprigs. Stir in honey, sliced basil and balsamic vinegar, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

10. Divide into bowls, sprinkle with

more sliced basil and a glug of good olive oil. Serve with fresh bread.

3. Warm 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil in a

very large pot - at least 5 litres - over medium high heat. Add the diced onions and a generous pinch of salt. Cook for about 10 minutes, or until

Renée Kohlman is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon. She writes restaurant reviews for The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and whips up delicious gluten-free dessert creations at Leyda’s Café. Check out her blog sweetsugarbean.ca. 21

Yummmmm Veggie Pizza story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

A pizza has two components to make it great: the crust and the toppings. When ordering out you are at the mercy of how your pizza joint likes to prepare your pizza. While some places get it right, there are many that leave you disappointed; usually by making the pizzas too oily or not adding enough of your favourite toppings. We try to make pizza at home but making the dough is a long and challenging process. What if I told you that you could make a delicious, healthy and quick pizza from start to finish while getting the family to eat their vegetables!

The main ingredient that you need is, a head of cauliflower. Yes, cauliflower! Now, stick with me as you will be amazed at how easy and delicious this pizza dough is, and wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even taste like cauliflower. Cauliflower is part of the cruciferous family of vegetables and is loaded with health benefits. You still get all the amazing attributes of cauliflower; The key to a great crust is squeezing as much water out of the cauliflower as possible

low in fat, low in carbohydrates, high in dietary fibre, vitamin C and folate, and it contains cancer fighting compounds this really is a super vegetable; you can have it all and eat your pizza too. The process is easy, and the key to a great crust is squeezing as much water out of the cauliflower as possible. You will be gifted with an outstanding, healthy crust that holds together and even has a bit of a crisp to it. Did I say loaded with cheese?

Cauliflower Pizza Crust Makes 1 - 9” pizza crust

500g cauliflower, core removed and grated (approximately 1 small head of cauliflower) 75g cheese, grated (asiago, parmesan, pecorino, mozzarella, goat all make great choices or substitute your favourite) 1 egg, beaten salt pepper herbs and/or spice blend of your choice

Preheat oven to 425º F.

will make sure your crust will be crispier and hold together better. Place “dry” cauliflower into medium bowl.

5. Add cheese, salt, pepper, herbs and

spices and stir to combine. Add egg and stir to combine all ingredients. Form “dough” into a ball.

6. Line your baking sheet or pizza

pan with parchment and add a small amount of oil to make sure the crust doesn’t stick to the parchment. Press the “dough” into a circle or square approximately 1cm thick with your hands.

1. Remove core and leaves from

7. Place baking sheet or pan in the cauliflower. If you don’t have a food bottom third of your oven and bake for processor then you can use a hand grater. 10 minutes at 425º F then turn down to If you are using a food processor, roughly 400º F and cook another 10 minutes. chop the cauliflower into 4cm size pieces. 8. Remove from oven and add your 2. Put grated cauliflower in a medium toppings. Return to oven for another 8 pot and add 2/3 cup (150mL) water and to 10 minutes or until cheese is golden stir. Place pot over medium-high heat and toppings are warmed through. Let and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cook cool slightly before removing from pan for 8 minutes. to give the crust time to set. 3. Once cauliflower has cooked, press

out as much water as you can and pour into strainer. Let drain until cool enough to handle.

4. Turn cauliflower onto a clean kitchen towel. Close up the towel and ring out as much water as you can - this process

9. Serve with side salad and enjoy all your veggies.

An outstanding, healthy crust that holds together and even has a bit of a crisp to it

Freezing - any extra cauliflower

should be formed into a crust, cooked and completely cooled before freezing. Wrap in both plastic wrap and foil. When you are ready to use - remove foil and plastic wrap, bake from frozen for 6 minutes at 400º F then add your toppings and bake another 8 to 10 minutes or until toppings are warmed and the cheese has melted.

Now the fun part: the toppings Please feel free to add your favourite pizza toppings or try one of these creations:

• pesto + roast chicken + mozzarella • pizza sauce + sautéed onions + cambazola + mozzarella + olives, topped with arugula after removed from oven • pizza sauce + roasted pineapple slices + ham + smoked mozzarella • barbecue sauce + thinly sliced steak + goat cheese + grilled onions • salsa + refried beans + corn + mozzarella + queso fresco, with sliced avocado added after removed from oven Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

The Coup:

Keeping The City Fresh And Filling story by FRED MALLEY CCC photography by INGRID KUENZEL AND FRED MALLEY CCC

In a city dominated by meat-centric menus, The Coup has always bucked this trend, staying proudly and completely vegetarian since day one. With a 10th anniversary approaching, this inspired eatery is a mainstay on 17th Avenue.

Recent renovations integrated the dining space and lounge side. Original partner Dalia Kohen put her interior design studies to work to create an open, light space with a feature herb wall at the front of the restaurant. The room has a hip, boisterous vibe during brunch, lunch and dinner. The Coup has evolved from humble beginnings; Kohen and Tabitha Archer started with no money, an assumed lease when rent was cheap, some

borrowed money and dĂŠcor from family and friends. The loans were paid back in the first year. Second hand and refurbished was the norm and still is today. The restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recent renovation incorporates recycled wood from the old courthouse to make herb boxes, and the table wood comes from structural beams of old stores.

Beatnuts at The Coup 24

The recent renovation was a culmination of what to do when your business partner moves to British Columbia. Kohen faced deciding whether to move, close or sell. With twenty years restaurant experience, following an eight-year forestry stint, she couldn’t fathom letting a business she loves fade away. The Coup is an extension of her life and beliefs. “Food is very social - it brings people together and life focuses around food and eating,” says Kohen. I like to bring people together and watch them enjoy.” Now long-time family friend, Ian Armitage is Kohen’s new partner who’s helping get things fresh and exciting around the restaurant. Kohen now focuses on overseeing the kitchen operation and creativity, and continuing to concoct seasonal cocktails. Armitage brings a penchant for number crunching A principle tenet of The Coup has always been to give people options and systems to the mix. The result is a symbiotic relationship that works. Dalia’s partner, Bruno, helps source product and is the weekend DJ to keep things lively in the evening. It’s clear that Armitage likes to make people feel special through food, service and atmosphere. Coming from an entrepreneurial family, he became hooked on the hospitality industry with his first guest experience at the Delta Lodge Kananaskis. At 13, he started work at Calaway Park in customer service and theatre. Three years at Joey Chinook, finally as the line coach, taught him how to work back of house, but he wanted front of house to be able to interact with guests. With many years of diverse restaurant experience now under his belt, he’s helping The Coup to run as smooth as ever. Kohen’s most memorable moment was initially getting the space to open

the restaurant back in 2004, but this is especially punctuated today with her day-to-day outlook as the owner/ operator passionately hands-on in the kitchen. “It’s hard to explain but there are many triggers that make my day sourcing the best cherries or nectarines, or my current favourite, garlic scapes. Nasturtiums - especially the buds - with their fiery character to clear the sinuses, are a summer favourite for me too!” In her words, a principle tenet of The Coup has always been to give people options, and [originally] to bring something new to Calgary. Kohen grew up in Saskatchewan and was raised kosher; not having certain types of food on the dinner table growing up was the norm for her. Today she is a lactovegetarian, but adds, “I’m always polite and don’t refuse what the host offers.” The philosophy of the business is to be vegetarian, buy organic as much as possible and support local growers. They currently deal with 42 local suppliers and growers requiring a lot of work to

maintain inventory and source supplies due to seasonality that comes along with our varied weather patterns here in Alberta. It is a challenge to source at a fair price to the grower and not price the menu above what customers are willing to pay. The Coup also embraces community gardening and serves what’s harvested at the restaurant, as well as participating in MealShare, a Western Canadian-based initiative that helps provide meals to those in need. The menu is not large, nor is it complicated. Kohen prefers to avoid the chaos of too many choices, and uses terminology that people understand - a nice, keep-it-simple approach. But, that does not mean the menu here is boring. The dishes cover a range of flavours and textures, and all are prepared with love. Providing a vegetarian menu that anyone can enjoy requires a lot of experimenting, testing (successes and failures) to find the delicious balance that can satisfy carnivores and herbivores alike. Each item combines full, rich flavours that please the senses. The philosophy is to be vegetarian, buy organic as much as possible and support local growers The Mushroom Faux Gras Cigars (don’t worry, there’s no tobacco in these ones!) along with baked yam fries and eggplant sleeping bags, are just a few of the signature items that patrons won’t let go. For a filling plate, try the restaurant’s spin on shawarma, 25

made with smoked tempeh, greens, herbs, carrots, feta and spiced tahini accompanied by a hearty sweet potato soup. The salads and noodles bowls are also go-to choices here. Nutritious, well balanced and generous in size, leaving you satisfied but not feeling sleepy. The cocktail menu is not extensive but utilizes interesting ingredients and combines them in unique ways. The juicer sitting on the bar is testament to freshness as you watch your beverage being built. Do yourself a favour and check it all out. We are in the peak of harvest season, after all! The Coup + Meet: 924, 17th Ave SW 403-541-1041, thecoup.ca

Mushroom Faux Gras Cigars Makes 21 cigars

½ bulb garlic, split crosswise 1 medium shallot 450g mixed mushrooms, choppedbutton, shiitake, crimini, Portobello 3 Tbs (50 mL) olive oil 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves Pinch celery seeds 2 tsp (10 mL) olive oil 2-3 Tbs (30-45 mL) whipping cream 2 tsp (10 mL) truffle oil To taste salt & pepper 7 phyllo dough sheets 1/2 c up (125 mL) melted butter Honey truffle dip

1. Lightly coat garlic and shallot with

4. Lay one sheet of phyllo horizontally

2. Heat a large frying over medium

5. Brush strips with butter; place 1 Tbs

3. Transfer the mushrooms to a food

6. Bake 375° F for 15-20 minutes,

oil, place in foil, wrap and bake at 340º F for 40 minutes. Cool and peel. high heat and coat with olive oil. Sauté the mushrooms, stirring occasionally, season lightly with salt and pepper Add celery seed and thyme and sauté the mushrooms until golden brown. processor and with the motor running, gradually add the olive oil, cream and truffle oil. Blend until velvety smooth. Season to taste, add more truffle oil if needed, and cool.

Your chance to win a cocktail-making lesson for two behind The Coup’s bar with owner, Dalia! The Coup is known for their amazing vegetarian cuisine, but they make a mean cocktail too. For your chance to win this great prize, simply go to culinairemagazine.ca and let us know one veggie you used to hate as a kid, but love now (and why) to win this creative cocktail lesson for two with Coup’s owner, Dalia. Of course, there will be some sipping too! Good luck, we can’t wait to hear from you! 26

Beatnuts Serves 4-6

1¼ cup mixed nuts (no peanuts) 1/2 cup mixed pumpkin and sunflower seeds 2 cups beets, peeled and rough chopped 5 Tbs (75 mL) fresh lemon juice 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 small garlic clove To taste salt & pepper 175g chèvre 1 English cucumber, sliced thick Fresh dill sprigs

on a cutting board and cut in 3 equal strips.

mushroom mixture at the end nearest you. Roll into cigar shape (fold in the ends and roll). Brush outside with butter and place on parchment lined baking tray. Repeat. until golden brown.

7. Serve with warm honey flavoured with truffle oil. (Sounds odd but it’s tasty)

1. Blend nuts in a food processor until

as smooth as possible – almost buttery. Reserve.

2. Place raw beet, lemon juice, olive

oil and garlic in food processor and run until very fine.

3. Mix the beet and nut mixtures

together with a spatula and season to taste.

4. Present with the chèvre and garnish with dill.

Fred currently validates Individual Learning Modules for Alberta Apprenticeship, for the trade of Cook. Chair of the Canadian Culinary Institute for five years (the body that certifies Chefs de Cuisine (CCC), Fred actively mentors and examines chefs across Canada.

CREATIVITY EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENT SIDES OF CHEF DUNCAN LY, GOLD MEDALIST, AWARD WINNING CHEF

HOTEL ARTS | KENSINGTON RIVERSIDE INN

Ways to Spice Up

Brown Bag Lunches

by LAURA LUSHINGTON

September means back to school and back to work. And that leads to one big question - what to eat for lunch? If you’re in a school or work routine, it can be all too easy to get stuck in a noon-hour mealtime rut. Some days you might need something quick to eat or quick to prepare, and other days call for a lazy lunch out in the sunshine. With these factors in mind, here are eight ways to spice up all the components of a brown bag lunch.

The B.L.A.T

Side Dish:

Use leftover bacon from your weekend brunch to create a bacon, lettuce, avocado and tomato sandwich on a baguette. Getting fresh, ripe produce from your local farmers’ market will boost flavours and let you discover all the great ingredients available nearby.

3) Simply Soup

Main Course:

Prosciutto and Fig

1) Gourmet Sandwiches

On a sliced baguette, spread a layer of goat cheese on one side and a layer of fig spread on the other. Top with prosciutto and arugula. You can also try different cheeses such as Asiago or Manchego, or layer in thin slices of figs too.

Sandwiches are a brown bag lunch staple. Instantly upgrade your sandwich by choosing gourmet ingredients instead of your regular luncheon meats or PB & J. Try different types of breads too, like switching out sliced bread for a baguette, bagel, pita or croissant.

2) Everything but the kitchen sink salads

Salads can be a great way to use up leftover ingredients in your fridge or forgotten items in your pantry. You can add almost anything to a bed of mixed greens. Make a healthy and simple vinaigrette for your salad by mixing 3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil with 1 Tbs (15 mL) balsamic vinegar and a pinch of salt and pepper. Try: - Quinoa, rice, couscous, or noodles - Sliced steak, chicken, fish or canned beans - Chopped baked potato, stir-fried vegetables, or curries 28

A side of soup is the perfect accompaniment to a gourmet sandwich or salad. Try one of the recipes from this month’s Soup Kitchen or head to our website culinairemagazine.ca for past months’ soup recipes including gazpachos, bisques and stews.

4) Veggies and a homemade dip

Slice carrots, peppers, zucchini, celery, or your favourite vegetables into long strips. Make sure to include a dip, because who doesn’t love to play with their food? Easy Dill Dip ½ cup (120 mL) mayonnaise ½ cup (120 mL) sour cream 1 tsp dill weed 1 tsp dried parsley ¼ tsp salt

Combine mayonnaise and sour cream together. Mix in spices. Refrigerate until needed.

Dessert:

Snack:

5) Apple and Cinnamon Slices

7) Popcorn

This is one of the simplest desserts to make in the office and makes a great mid-day snack too. Slice a cored apple into quarters and sprinkle cinnamon on top. If you have a microwave available, heat the apple slices with cinnamon on high for one minute for the aroma of a freshly baked apple pie without the work!

6) Make your own yogurt parfaits

Making your own yogurt parfaits at home helps you to control portion size, the calorie-content of toppings and cuts down on costs. It also lets you customize so each member of the family can have their own! Try: - Greek yogurt with honey and toasted almonds - Vanilla yogurt with oats, mango and pineapple slices - Greek yogurt with blueberries, blackberries and flax seeds

I love including a bag of popcorn in with my lunch for a mid-afternoon snack. Popcorn is so versatile because of the many types of toppings and flavourings you can add, so depending on your mood you can make it salty or sweet. Try: - Butter and grated parmesan cheese - Olive oil, dark chocolate chips and sea salt - Butter, chili powder, cinnamon, almonds, pecans and pumpkin seeds

8) Loaded Rice Krispie Squares

Ooey and gooey, Rice Krispie squares are found in lunchboxes everywhere. Appealing because they’re easy to make, easy to eat and easy to transport, there’s nothing to say you can’t add in some extra ingredients to spice up your Rice Krispie squares! Add in: - Dried fruits, nuts and seeds - A mixture of dark, milk and white chocolate chunks - Nutella, peanut butter or almond butter - Pieces of your favourite cookies or chocolate bars And don’t forget to leave a special note if you’re packing a lunch for someone else!

‘Laura Lushington is a graduate of Mount Royal University’s Journalism program. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram @LauraLushington

Tel: 403.275.3300 www.italianstore.ca

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Calgary, AB T2E 6V1

Power In Your Palm: 5 Dynamite Wine Apps To Help You Face The Future by PETER VETSCH

If you walked into an unfamiliar wine shop a decade ago on the hunt for a bottle to have with dinner, you would have had precious little assistance: unless you lucked into finding some knowledgeable customer service or a well-known label, you were on your own, navigating a swift vinous river without a paddle. 30 30

Nowadays, a few scant years later, the reverse is true: as long as you have a smartphone in your pocket, you have continual access to an absolute torrent of wine-related information, whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s critical scores, drinking windows, preferred pairings or even directpurchase options. Rather than grasping for information, we are now all drowning in it. This makes trustworthy and userfriendly sources all the more important, as the only thing worse than standing in front of a rack of unknown bottles with no idea what to buy is standing in front of the same rack with a phone in front

of your face frantically scrambling to find a single piece of helpful guidance. Wine apps are intended to be this onestop-shop of support and advice, easy accessible fountains of knowledge that are just a finger swipe away. However, just like everything else online, their existence is not a guarantee of their quality. There are thousands of winerelated apps, but only a handful have the substance to make a daily difference in your drinking world. Here are 5 indispensable wine apps that will not only help you out at the store but may also change the way in which you interact with wine.

shops, restaurants and bars near you that offer wine – this effectively turns your phone into your own personal bottle Bat Signal. It even shows you (albeit with slightly questionable accuracy) some of the wines that are available at each spot! Talk about a potential lifesaver while travelling.

2. Delectable 1. Vivino Probably the most widely known wine app, Vivino has a lot going for it, starting with what might be the single best electronic wine tool of them all: label recognition photography. Take a picture of any bottle’s label within the app, wait a few seconds, and Vivino will tell you what the wine is, where it’s from, what it usually costs and what others have thought of it. Even cooler, it automatically ranks the wine in comparison to others from the same winery, region and country. You can add your own tasting notes and ratings and track everything you buy through this single label shot, and once you do it a few times, the app starts recommending other wines for you based on your preferences.

Structured in a similar way to Vivino, Delectable focuses more on the social side of wine, but with a professional twist. Sleek, interactive and easy to navigate, it’s a liquid hybrid of Twitter and Instagram that is dedicated solely to your latest bottle, allowing you to post thoughts about a wine which are instantly transmitted to your followers, anchored always by your phonegenerated picture. It too features label recognition technology, which is slower to respond

My favourite Vivino throw-in is the “Nearby Places” tab, which does an automatic proximity search to find

TAP THAT CASK.

than Vivino’s but is arguably superior due to its shocking accuracy – despite rigorously testing it with some VERY obscure labels, I have not been able to stump it yet. Delectable has also smartly figured out and exploited one of the key things that makes social connection giants like Twitter so popular: they give everyday people the previously impossible ability to interact directly A decade ago….you were on your own, navigating a swift vinous river without a paddle. with those who would otherwise be out of their reach - celebrities, athletes, or in the case of wine, top sommeliers, critics and winemakers. In addition to adding your own friends and contacts to your Delectable network, there is also a separate menu specifically allowing you to search for and add (or get recommendations from) “Wine Pros”, which not only provides you firsthand insight into what industry luminaries like Rajat Parr, Gary Vaynerchuk or Greg Harrington are drinking on a daily basis, but also allows you to comment and engage them directly on their reviews. That sound you hear is all conventional access and communications barriers shattering.

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4. Pocket Wine

Culinaire Groth

3. WineStein Styling itself “your private sommelier”, WineStein is my current go-to for instant wine and food pairing advice. This is miles beyond “what wine goes with chicken?” Although slightly clunky to navigate, the app enables you to build a meal featuring a number of different dishes, each of which can contain multiple different ingredients and be prepared using a whole host of different possible cooking methods. The list of available

Rather than grasping for information, we are now all drowning in it.

food ingredients in the WineStein database is absolutely mind-blowing (agave syrup? dove breast? hominy?), allowing it to handle multi-layered and ethnic cuisines with ease. Once you build your meal, WineStein creates a compiled “Dish DNA” based on its various flavour, textural and sensory components, and then provides a list of possible wine pairings, ranked from best to worst and scored out of 100 based on their food compatibility. You can also use it in reverse to pick a food match for a certain wine, but the meal construction tool is at the core of WineStein’s appeal. The bad news: to get full use of the app’s capabilities requires a $7/year paid upgrade. 32

Pocket Wine isn’t out to change the world; it’s there to be a handy reference on just about any practical wine issue you might come across. A clean, bright, modern interface makes for easy scrolling between a list of basic wine pairing types for major food groups (including an ultra-helpful “Dos and Don’ts” section), a lengthy list of wine regions and the grapes found in them, a punchy glossary of common terms, and the app’s pièce de resistance, a doublebarrelled breakdown of the world’s wine grapes. About 100 different grapes are profiled, sorted separately by name and by overall style – Aromatic, Crisp and Rich for whites, Fruity, Smooth and Powerful for reds. Each grape’s profile tells you how it usually tastes, where it’s grown, its body/tannin/acid levels, its ageworthiness, possible food matches, even how it’s pronounced. You can also add your own personal notes to each profile that get automatically saved to the grape’s description. Finally, by answering a series of either/ or questions, you can create your own palate profile that advises on the style of white or red you’re likely to prefer. This is polished, friendly, and sure to be widely used, particularly by newcomers to the world of wine.

MAKING ABOUT US THE

CASE

2012

1 of 2

SAUVIGNON BLANC NAPA VALLEY Wonderful melon fruits,with green apple,and apple jelly show a softer, mellower side to sauvignon blanc. The use of about 60 percent natural oak adds depth without making it all oaky or taking away the crispness of the grape, while a touch of capsicum creeps up on the finish. Wonderful stuff.

Culinaire is a food and beverage magazine temptin appetites, and celebrating Calgary. We’re highligh learning from their experience and success. Sharin chefs, sommeliers, brewers, mixologists, restaurat beverage experts.

Culinaire serves up features on dining in, dining ou cocktails. With a guaranteed 15,000 printed copi year, Culinaire can be found at no charge in the fo of businesses who share our passion. 2011

Peter Alberta Beverage Awards Lehmann

2013

Gabriel Meffre GM ROSE COTES DE PROVENCE

2012

A pale, delicate pink, aromas of icing sugar, candy stick, strawberry, and bare hints of raspberry fruit lift from the glass. So delicate to taste - it's almost ethereal, but soft fruits and a little sweetness should be great on the deck or patio this year.

WHITE REX SONOMA COUNTY

Deerfield Ranch

BAROSSA BLONDE Over three days in July, we assemble an esteemed SOUTH AUSTRALIA experts to taste and judge well over 500 different andAspirits), pouring nearly 3,000 blind samples well put together blend of several white s of similar products. varieties, aromas of honey, citrus, apple, peaches, grass, and mineral. This perfect The results are grouped into categories, and in som wine for warm weather is tart, juicy, and groupings. In each category there is a “Best in Cla with plenty of acids, should with Selectio performing product, followed bygo “Judges’ seafood, products salads or in onthe its category. own this summer. performing We often id which is a high performing product that also provi

The results are published in the September and O as well as on www.culinairemagazine.ca. For more Tom Firth, Competition Director at cowtownwine A highly unusual blend in two ways. First, it's mostly pinot grigio, with sauvignon blanc,Best in Class Judges Selection riesling, and chardonnay. Second, it works - Top Value not only that but these varieties play well together. Look for bright, tropical fruits, a slightly creamy texture, and a long, silky 2013 2013 finish. Pair with almost anything. JU N D B EST

IN C L A S

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2012

Norton

Scan the QR code to add this set to Just Wine

MALBEC ROSADO MENDOZA Congo pink (I looked it up) in the glass, the nose is wonderfully floral with spices, plum, and more raspberry fruits. Quite dry,plenty of malbec character shows through, although vanilla tones subdue the fruits leading to the back end before a slightly bitter finish.

2012

PrintBirichino magazine advertising captures and holds attention social media and web* VIN GRIS

CALIFORNIA *Source: Magazines Canada Media Connections Study 2013, BrandSpark Int A highly unusual blend in two ways. First, it's mostly pinot grigio, with sauvignon blanc, riesling, and chardonnay. Second, it works - not only that but these varieties play well together. Look for bright, tropical fruits, a slightly creamy texture, and a long, silky finish. Pair with almost anything.

5. Just Wine A homegrown Canadian success story, Just Wine is most useful for the targeted local content that it offers, something that the primarily USfocused apps above can’t match. This app aims to be a conglomeration of the others in this list, giving users the ability to create and save tasting notes on any bottle in a virtual cellar (although doing so is quite manually intensive compared to Vivino and Delectable), offering up graphically aided slideshows on how to taste properly, and providing descriptions and food pairings for common grape varieties (complete with actual pictures of the grapes, much to my delight). But it goes from interesting to indispensable thanks to its Events tab, which features a continuously updating calendar listing every major wine event in town, from in-store tastings to pairing dinners at restaurants to festivals, wine tour vacations and wine education classes. The app connects you directly to the event website or adds the event to your phone’s calendar with a single touch. Never miss a tasting again!

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night, maintaining his own wine blog at popandpour.ca. Peter is always on the lookout for the next way to learn about and experience wine (and the next good bottle to try).

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Can Wine In Kegs Find Its Legs In Calgary? by TONYA LAILEY

So what exactly is “wine-on-tap” and why the hoopla? Wine on Tap is wine drawn from 19.5 L pressurized containers (kegs) fitted to specialized dispensing systems (taps) for supplying wine-by-the-glass programs in restaurants. Kegs assume several forms, from the single-use recyclable polyethylene terephthalate PubKeg and KeyKeg, to the 304 grade stainless kegs that have recently taken the west coast by storm. Wine kegs are practically a panacea for the by-the-glass business. Each keg delivers 130 consistently fresh 5-ounce pours. Kegs rationalize storage space, reduce bar clutter, save service time, simplify wine accounting, cost less per glass, and eliminate the spoilage (loss) inherent to handling scores of bottles opened on different days. Add to this the ecological sense it makes to forgo bottles - the largest contributor to the wine industry’s carbon footprint - not to mention corks, capsules and labels. “Convenient and cost-effective, the best thing ever,” says Cam 34

FreshTap

Chalmers, Manager at Calgary’s Marquee Beer Market & Stage, who stock keg wines exclusively. Brian Gunsten’s Dream Wines distribute Cannonball Cabernet Sauvignon in stainless keg. “I’m extremely happy with the technology and process. It’s a no brainer,” he says. But it has taken brains to get the technology to this point and it takes brains to use it to desired effect - as a profitable, direct-to-glass system for delivering fresh, quality wine.

Jim Neal, proprietor of N2 wines in Rutherford, California, is a pioneer of contemporary wine keg technology. N2 distributes stainless kegs of Napa and Sonoma wine as well as imported product. Neal has invested serious time, money and effort into solving the shortcomings of early wine keg iterations. Free Flow Wines, a kegging facility in Napa, is another player integral to the evolution in keg practices, having devised a precise system for installing, maintaining, servicing and cleaning its constituent parts. A spin-off industry

Free Flow Wines

has spawned to supply stainless wine kegs and parts of a higher grade (304 up from 302) than beer kegs and parts due to wine’s low pH, which corrodes the lower grade steel. Neal and the folks at Free Flow learned that “Guinness Gas”, a 75% nitrogen, 25% CO2 gas blend the brewer developed to keep its draft beer fresh, benefits wine in keg too. Dissolved CO2, a by-product of fermentation, is essential to the production of quality wine destined for either bottle or keg, but its importance was overlooked in early kegging practices. CO2 is acidic and the correct amount emphasizes fruitiness and freshness over, say, tannic and woody notes, while contributing minimal-to-no perceptible effervescence. The nitrogen/CO2 blend is the tap driver. Supplied by canisters coupled to the keg, it pushes the wine up from the bottom of the keg through

tubing to the tap, while at the same time occupying the headspace as the keg is depleted. “I think the technology is excellent,” says Ann Sperling, owner and winemaker at Sperling Vineyards in Kelowna and Versado in Mendoza. She adds, “Wines from stainless keg are very fresh, the fruit is lively. BC reds in keg have been criticized for tasting too fresh - acidic - and even green.” Sperling points out how the absorption of CO2 by wine in keg exaggerates cold climate character traits in tannic reds, although, she says, the acidity and greenness can be offset with sweetness. So what about the wine? Critics, consumers and winemakers will tell you that it’s good. But like all technology it has limitations and requires skilled piloting. Toronto-based wine critic John Szabo writes in winealign.com, “...It seems a proverbial no-brainer, provided the right tap system is in place. It’s a triple win: better quality wine, at a lower price thanks to savings on the expensive packaging, with lower environmental impact. What’s not to love? As long as restaurateurs and wineries focus on quality wine, gaining the confidence of restaurant customers, it seems sensible.” FreshTap is a Vancouver wine kegging operation started by Steve Thorp and Mike Macquisten in February of 2011.

rent kegs face expenses only marginally lower than bottle packaging. Wineries take on kegs with the hope of selling more volume eventually and because their restaurant clients want kegs.

FreshTap

FreshTap supplies kegs, fills them, distributes, collects and cleans them for reuse. The company has educated restaurants on the sound installation and maintenance of the hardware, prepared wines properly for kegging, and streamlined the restaurant user experience for easy adoption. Since FreshTap owns the kegs, wineries require no capital outlay. “There are over 110 restaurant accounts serving FreshTAP wines and over 500 taps in the market right now, the vast majority of which are in BC.” said spokesperson Tage Harris. FreshTap fills between 700-1,000 kegs per month. So where does this leave the bottle? Harris acknowledges that kegs aren’t for every wine: “Wine-on-tap is suitable for the majority of wines...There are some wines that are not ideal for wine-on-tap, especially those that need time to bottle age or need time to breathe and are not consumer-ready when the bottle is opened.”

While the majority of wines may be suitable for kegs, the volume of wine currently sold in keg is a tiny percentage of annual wine sales in Canada. In 2011 it was 1 percent of sales in BC and may now be at 2 percent. The selection of wines-on-tap remains slim compared to the great diversity by the bottle. BC reds in keg have been criticized for tasting too fresh - acidic - and even green There’s conflicting information about the economy of kegs. The direct cost saving to restaurants is typically between 5 and 15 percent, without accounting for the reduction in spoiled wine. Theoretically, this translates into better-priced by-the-glass wine for the consumer. Kegs don’t necessarily save wineries money; time and effort need to be dedicated to the venture, and wineries that outsource kegging and

Once tapped, kegs can keep wine fresh for at least 6 months. Untapped kegs preserve wine much longer. Yet, historically, one of the most valued assets of wine is its ability to mature in bottle. It is in the best interests of the restaurant and the wine producer to ensure that wines-on-tap are delicious. Says Laurie Barnes, marketing director at Poplar Grove Winery, “We currently keg Poplar Grove white wines only and for Monster Vineyards we keg both red and white wines. Part of our keg program is that we visit all of the accounts that sell our wines in keg to taste them by the glass and make sure that they are tasting as they are intended. So far, we have had really good feedback.” You can bet that the wine producers you know and love have considered carefully which format is best for their wines, though it is not only a technical decision. Wine-on-tap so far belongs to a different culture of wine, in which the marketing message need be delivered as plainly as the wine itself. It may be just the thing to give kegs legs in Calgary. Tonya Lailey was born under a Chardonnay vine in Niagara. She’s still got a few toes in the dirt at Lailey Vineyard, though she’s otherwise settled in Alberta, raising kids, selling wine and writing.

Are there any kegs in Alberta? They’re around, but not in Vancouver numbers. Mostly they’re in large venues where high volume by-the-glass sales demonstrate the business benefit. Taste wines on tap in Calgary at: Marquee Beer Market and Stage, Ceili’s Modern Irish Pubs, Craft Beer Market, Heritage Park, The Pint, and The Blind Monk. In Edmonton, wine kegs are tapped at Parlour Italian Kitchen, Craft Beer Market and Characters Fine Dining.

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Reinvented This 6 Bottle Variety is Available Beginning September

Wine lovers know the little ceremony that the waiter or sommelier performs when they bring your wine. The tiny pour, the vaguely contemptuous look on the sommelier’s face. Is this ritual a remnant of the past? A silly dance meant to add to the already fussy atmosphere around wine? A pleasant formality to add a bit of pomp to your meal? Here is an easy, four-step guide to the rituals of the cork.

Step one: presentation of the bottle The server stands with the bottle tucked in the crook of their arm, label facing you. And they wait. What is that all about? What are you expected to do?

Rituals of the Cork:

The Smart Wine-Lover’s Guide To Corkage, Corks, And Re-Corking In Calgary by KEITH ROBINSON

You are confirming that the bottle presented is in fact the bottle you ordered. Check the producer, the vineyard or varietal, and be sure to check the year. You might be paying for a top-rated year and they bring out a poorer one (or vice-versa!). Sommeliers do make honest mistakes and occasionally, dishonest ones. By all means, check the colour – if you wanted red, be sure it is red. This is your last chance before they open and pour. Mistakes are made and names can be confusing. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars is not Stags’ Leap Winery is not Stags Leap District. Is this ritual a remnant of the past?

Corkage: bringing your own bottle. Restaurants do not have to allow corkage and every restaurant’s policy and fees charged differ. Suggestions – do not bring a cheap bottle because you are trying to beat the restaurant’s wine prices. By all means, bring a special bottle that has some meaning to you or the occasion. Also, by Alberta law, you cannot bring homemade wine or previously opened wine for consumption in a licenced establishment. When in doubt, call first.

Step two: presentation of the cork The server removes the cork, hopefully in one piece and with great aplomb. He places it in front of you. What are you to do? Smell it? Chew it thoughtfully? Stash it in your purse or pocket? Give the cork a quick sniff and examine it. Smell it for signs of cork taint – musty, wet cardboard, your grandmother’s attic or other flaws. Check the name imprinted on the cork to ensure it is the same producer as on the bottle. Wine stains should not run the full length of the cork – this might be an indication of a loose fit and possible oxidation of the wine. You might see tiny glass-like shards attached to the bottom of the cork. The crystals may also be at the bottom of the bottle. These are tartrate crystals, naturally formed from the acids in the grape. Harmless, they are often called wine diamonds. They are a good sign indicating the winemaker did not add chemical stabilizers or use chill filtering.

Step three: the tiny pour The server pours barely enough for a mouthful into your glass. Do not swirl the glass. Do not toss the mouthful into your mouth. You are going to raise the glass to your nose

and take one quick sniff. Block out the world. Trust your nose. You are checking for wet cardboard, for chemical smells, for smells - stale or rotten. You are not checking to see if you like the wine, but if this bottle has gone bad. Trust yourself. You are better at this than you think. But what if you aren’t sure? You If you do not finish the bottle, the restaurant must offer to re-cork it can always ask your server, “this wine seems a bit off; can you or someone check it?” After all, their job is to make you happy.

Step four: decanting The server will ask you if you want the wine decanted either to ‘open up’ young wines or to filter sediment from older wines. Be sure to say yes and say it with enthusiasm. Decanting is good. The decanter looks cool on the table. Decanting makes your wine taste better. And decanting makes you look cool. Even some whites and some champagnes can use a little decant. That is the ritual of the cork. Now, go to your favourite Calgary restaurant and practice. Keith Robinson is an independent certified sommelier with years of experience in wine education, events, cellar consulting and sourcing.

Re-corking: In a province and a world with odd liquor regulations, re-corking is a glimmer of reason. If you do not finish the bottle, the restaurant must offer to re-cork it, bag it, and send you home with the leftovers. This is eminently sensible, is smart public policy and good for you and restaurants. Some restaurant staff do not know about re-corking, but they are required to re-cork if you ask.

Great Corkage Deals in Calgary Pizza Bob’s Classic Pie 2610 Kensington Road NW 403 521-2627 No corkage fee, ever. Gluten free, lactose free, vegan friendly pizza. The Belvedere 107 - 8 Ave SW 403 265-9595 No corkage fee, but some restrictions. Call them first for details. Alloy Dining 220 - 42 Ave SE 403 287-9255 Corkage fee is $35 per bottle but the fee is waived if you also purchase a bottle off the list. Many Calgary restaurants offer free or discounted corkage one day a week. Call to check. 39

Yes, It Is All About Mead by DAVID NUTTALL

When one thinks of mead, visions of burly, bearded Vikings drinking from flagons may come to mind. While that may have been true, this mysterious liquor has been around for many millennia, has been part of several civilizations, from Mesopotamia to China, through Egypt, Greece and Rome, up to medieval Europe and beyond, and is enjoying a renaissance of its own in Alberta today. With three new local meaderies producing over two dozen varieties and more imports available, mead is creating a buzz here at home.

anywhere from sweet to dry. There are several types of honey available and multiple yeast strains to do the work, and it can be aged in tanks or barrels anywhere from several weeks to several months. Some may even have spices, fruit and other additives added. Dry meads should be consumed at cellar temperature while sweeter meads are best served chilled.

So, just what is mead? Simply put, it is alcohol produced from honey. Often called honey wine, the fermentable sugars of the honey are converted into what may possibly the oldest form of manufactured alcohol. Like wine, mead can be quite diverse, and be

Immediately south of Okotoks lies the Chinook Honey Company. While they have been producing honey for some twenty-odd years, home-brewer Art Andrews started making mead about ten years ago. It was a novel idea back then,

Southern Alberta’s Meaderies

“not many how-to books on meadmaking have been written since the 14th century”, Art jokes. He went commercial in 2008 by opening up Chinook Arch Meadery and now produces about a dozen different varieties. In addition to traditional meads, they produce metheglins (mead with spices, one is named Ginger Snapped), melomels (mead with fruits, such as their Black and Blue, made with blackcurrants and blueberries) and iced mead (Frosted Bliss). Art uses half a dozen different yeasts, which allows him to control fermentations. These meads have the pronounced honey flavour you’d expect, but are unique due to the combinations of fruit and spices Art adds in.

Chinook Honey Company 40

Fallentimber Meadery

Mead Picks Chinook Arch Bochet – Vanilla: Made from a 700 year old recipe using toasted honey and spices, this dessert mead tastes like toffee and vanilla with a slight stone fruit finish. Rich and decadent. 375 mL bottle, 11.5% ABV, $25

Fallentimber Meadery grew out of the Ryan’s Honey Farm in the foothills near Water Valley, just north of Cochrane. While the family had been producing honey since the late 1960s, the meadery came about as a result of a hobby of the grandsons that “got out of hand”. After discovering mead made more profit than the notoriously low margins that come from honey sales, it justified buying more equipment. They now make ten meads including Cyser (mead mixed with crabapples), Pyment (mead blended with Naramata merlot grapes) and Cinnamon Mead. The Ryan

So, just what is mead? Simply put, it is alcohol produced from honey

in 2015) are a dandelion mead named Dande, Saskwatch, which is made with Saskatoon berries, and Wild Rose Passion, made with our provincial flower. Tasting these wines, you would think you are drinking a white, red and rosé wine, respectively. Which is exactly how mead maker Hugo Bojean wants it. “We are trying to create meads which are less sweet, go with food and can be treated as table wines, albeit with a mead base. Many of the meads are aged in oak barrels, giving them even more flavour comparable to regular table wine. Most of these local products are somewhat hard to find. They are available only in select liquor stores and farmers’ markets, so check their websites or liquorconnect.com for where their products are sold. However, it is certainly worthwhile to visit them. They all have tasting rooms, products to purchase, and the proprietors of these family-run businesses are great hosts who would love to show you around their property. Mead is local, and as they say today, mead is trending. So search them out. You’ll be glad you did.

chinookhoney.com Fallentimber Hopped Mead - Their newest product is quickly becoming their best seller. Halfway between mead and a beer, one quarter of the “honey bill” is caramelized honey for colour and body. This carbonated mead has honey in the foreground, but is capped by Cascade and Chinook hops for a slight bitterness in the end. Also available on tap in better beer bars. 500 mL bottle, 7.5% ABV, $9 fallentimbermeadery.ca Spirit Hills Saskwatch - Made with Saskatoon berries and blackcurrants, the berries are macerated with the honey and aged in oak for 6 months. The result is a dark red, dry, spicy mead, with only the slightest hint of honey that can go anywhere a dry red table wine can go. It is perfect for the dinner table and BBQs, but can also stand on its own. 750 mL bottle, 13.7% ABV, $25 spirithillswinery.com Spirit Hills

Spirit Hills

boys continue to experiment by home brewing, and are buying more tanks, so look for more products in the future. Spirit Hills, just southwest of Millarville, takes a unique approach to mead. Ilse and Hugo Bonjean started their honey winery from scratch with less than 100 hives and produce mead that is more analogous to table wine than dessert wine. Amongst their half dozen varieties (with more to come 41

Making the Case: Great Tastes From Around The World by TOM FIRTH

I had to be reminded recently that September is still summer. The kids are back in school, schedules go back to normal, and the days are getting shorter. On the bright side, the bugs are gone, the days are still warm (usually) and it’s still great to get outside and do some grilling. Have some friends or family over on a weeknight, and enjoy one of these great wines from around the globe. Cheers!

Valenciso 2007 Rioja Reserva Rioja, Spain Possibly my new favourite Rioja - just kidding, it is my new favourite. I’m loving the liquorice and cherry notes with cola, spice box, and hints of orange peel on the nose. Flavours are consistent and it has got great weight in the mouth along with black pepper and a tasty finish. Cellar with confidence till around 2020. $44

Colene Clemens 2011 “Adriane” Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, Oregon Good quality and expression of the grape here with plenty of fruit, earth, spice, and tomato leaf leading into a clean and consistent experience for the mouth. A little blackberry fruit complements mid-weight tannins (for pinot noir) and a long silky finish. Match with duck, salmon, or thick homemade burgers. $52

Sandhill 2011 Small Lots Viognier, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia One of my favourite viogniers coming out of Canada. Bright peach and white blossom, vanilla pod, mineral and orange peel aromas lead to a tight, floral palate with mineral and stone fruits. Plenty of layers to give the palate a workout, drink now or through 2016. $35

Frank Family Vineyards 2012 Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California

Sandhill 2010 Small Lots Two Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Durbanville Hills 2013 Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa

Red apples, crushed lime, a little oak and buttered popcorn lead on the nose, while oak figures a little more prominently on the palate. A nearperfect example of what big, buttery chardonnay should be like. Drink with richer soups or pastas, or on its own just to savour…. $48

Limited in 2010 to only 11 barrels, the blend is centered around cabernet sauvignon with merlot and a few others for good measure. Expect cherry and cedar characters with tons of spice, blueberry, tobacco leaf and just the right amount of bell pepper. Drinking very well now, it can cellar up to 5-7 more years. $35

Fresh grapefruit, lime, and melon aromas with a distinct note of apple skins, the palate is light and crisp with a little jalapeño and mineral cleaning up on the finish. A refreshing change from the Kiwi style of sauvignon blanc. $17

Josef Chromy NV Tasmanian Cuvée

Tantalus 2012 Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Savian 2012 Pinot Grigio, Venezia, Italy

From waaay down under comes this sleek and stylish sparkling wine made in the traditional method. Blended around pinot noir and chardonnay, it’s full of crisp apple, almonds, toast, and mineral aromas with all the style and pizazz you expect from champagne. A new classic. $33

Packed to the brim with apple fruits, lemon and lime, and rife with mineral tones, this is an exciting chardonnay to drink. Bright flavours, purity of fruit, and a wonderful, clean finish - so good! Drinking now, you get all the tension between acid, fruit, and mineral. Enjoy with a little seafood, or invite me over and I’ll help you drink it. $35

Relatively new to the market, the Savian is awash in apple fruits, floral aromas, apple rock candy, and peach. A little acidic zing brings life to the fruits and overall it’s a great glass of pinot grigio. Oh, it’s organic too if that helps. $21

Château Martinat Côtes de Bourg 2009 Bordeaux, France

19 Crimes 2012 Shiraz Durif Victoria, Australia

La Casona de Castaño 2013 Old Vine Monastrell, Yecla, Spain

A nose that brings cigar box, tar, cherry, cassis, cedar and plum, this blend of merlot with cabernet sauvignon and malbec packs plenty of earthy flavours and just a touch of grippy tannins. A well made wine that should handle the last of the summer barbecues, and keep in the cellar 2-3 years with ease. $23

Woody tones and cherry fruits show on the nose with coffee bean, black raspberry, and vanilla making an appearance. Black liquorice, and black fruits lead the palate with firmer tannins and some bright acids. I’m thinking this will pair very well with beef ribs, good burgers, or meaty pasta sauces. $22

Bright, ruby red in the glass, the aromas are of fresh berries, with spice box, dried cane, and some wicked violet notes. Made from 40-60 year old vines and striking a fine balance between fruit and earthiness, the long spicy finish will keep you coming back. $14 Tom Firth is the contributing drinks editor for Culinaire Magazine and the competition director for the Alberta Beverage Awards, follow him on twitter @cowtownwine. 43

A Nice Beer At Dinner:

The Art of Pairing Beer and Food by MEAGHAN O’BRIEN

We do it at dinner parties, the Italians are renowned for doing it and have been for centuries, and it involves food. What is it you may ask? Well, it’s the practice and tradition of bringing wine to the dinner table. We unite food and wine to bring people together and pair the two for a tasty experience. Historically, wine was introduced at the table as it was more sanitary than the local water supply. But why does this practice of bringing a beverage to the dinner table seldom include beer? Though things are beginning to evolve with our new-found love of craft beer, it is largely to do with the lack of knowledge of how to bring beer to the table.

Pairing beer with food is incredibly easy, and there are endless pairing possibilities given the large number of types of beer available. The wide range of body, flavour, strength and profiles is so vast – I hate to break it to the wine lovers, but it is easier to pair food with beer than with wine. There is a beer for absolutely everyone, even die-hard wine fans! The same rules apply when pairing beer as pairing wine; choosing a beer that

Amber, red and brown ales, especially those with a slightly sweet profile, pair great with chicken, burgers, tangy cheese, and even dessert.

complements and brings out the flavours of the food item, and vice versa. Beer can be chosen on any particular theme and there is a beer for every course, even dessert! Pairing beer with food is fun, easy and extremely versatile. Whether you choose a food item that complements or slightly accentuates the beer, the pairing options are endless. There are some basic rules when pairing beer and food. Try to stay within these parameters, though have some fun with it!

Blonde Ale, Lager and Pilsner • • • •

Seafood Chicken Monterey Jack or Havarti cheese Salad

Lighter brews pair best with food such as chicken, seafood, vegetables or light cheeses. Avoid pairing lighter beer with strong, heavy dishes, as the flavour of the beer can get lost. Suggested pairing: grilled prawn salad topped with a cilantro lime dressing, paired with a Big Rock Grasshopper or Saaz Pilsner.

Amber, Red and Brown ale • • • •

Roasted or broiled chicken Turkey or beef burgers Caramel dessert Port-Salut or Oka cheese There is a beer for every course, even dessert!

Suggested pairing: rotisserie chicken on the BBQ and BBQ potatoes seasoned with garlic and herbs, paired with Tool Shed Red Rage or Village Brewery Troubadour (limited edition brew).

IPA (India Pale Ale) • Spicy dishes (especially curry) • Gorgonzola or Cambozola cheese • Red meats (especially gamey meats such as bison) IPAs pair nicely with strong, bold food. The spice from the hops in IPAs complements spicy, rich food. The higher the IBU (international bitterness unit) of the beer, the more spice in the food you can get away with. Suggested pairing: Curry-spiced beef or bison burger topped with peach chipotle chutney, paired with a Wild Rose IPA.

Porter or Stout • BBQ or smoked foods • Chocolaty desserts • Gruyere cheese

The richness of stouts and porters works well with barbecue or smoked foods. Suggested pairing: Bison or elk sirloin topped with caramelized onions and paired with Wild Rose Brewery Alberta Crude oatmeal stout (available to take home from the brewery in a party pig/ mini-keg)

Lambic or fruit beer • • • •

Fruit or sorbet Chocolate dessert or cheesecake Salad with a vinaigrette Gouda cheese

Lambic, or fruit beer, can be dessert on its own or can be enjoyed as an aperitif (before a meal) or as a digestif (after a meal). Enjoy with a dessert, fruit, or with a crisp salad. Suggested pairing: Chocolate or vanilla trifle dessert paired with a Belgian Liefmans Fruitesse. This aged Belgian berry beer is the perfect accompaniment to dessert as it is refreshing but not too sweet. When paired with chocolate it is reminiscent of Black Forest cake. Once you learn the art of pairing beer with food, and begin to feel more comfortable matching beer to your own delicious dishes, your next dinner party may have a new experience for your guests to enjoy.

Meaghan O’Brien is a self-proclaimed beer enthusiast with a passion for hunting down and tasting the most unique brews. Check out her blog at megsbeerbanter.com and follow her on Facebook at facebook.com/MegsBeerBanter. 45

Revive Your Tastebuds

(And Tradition) With Drinking Vinegars And Shrubs by SHERYL NORMANDEAU

These aren’t your gardenvariety shrubs, although some of the ingredients can be sourced from gardens - I’m talking about the tangy combinations of fresh fruit, herbs, and sweeteners that elevate vinegar from the realm of salad dressing and bring a unique twist to water, teas, and cocktails.

Drinking vinegars and shrubs are easy to create and blend at home, and provide a refreshing way to celebrate the harvest bounty. Used here, the word “shrub” is derived from the Arabic word sharāb, meaning “to drink,” and was originally used to describe the purification of water through the addition of a high acid vinegar. Eighteenth century Europeans ascribed the term to spirited concoctions of alcohol and citrus fruit, but it wasn’t until the early settlers colonized America that shrubs as we know them today became popular. (You’ll often hear the words drinking vinegar and shrub used interchangeably, but there is a difference: “drinking vinegar” or “shrub syrup” refers to the concentration of vinegar and additives,

while a “shrub” is the name given to a mixed drink created from the syrups). Vinegar is the star attraction in shrub syrup, so be sure to select a type that you really love. Anyone keen on making shrubs should have a few different types of vinegar in the pantry, to mix and match with the other ingredients.

Herbs and spices are usually considered aromatics in shrub syrups, used to complement the other ingredients

At the very least, stock up with regular household-brand white vinegar, but bring in bottles of champagne, red wine, white wine, apple cider, and balsamic vinegars as creative alternatives. Other flavourful options include coconut, cane, date, raisin, and rice vinegars. All vinegars must contain at least five percent acetic acid. Besides vinegar, fruit is the most important ingredient in shrub syrups – and for those of you who like to experiment, the sky is the limit when it comes to choosing the fruit base. Fresh strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, apples, peaches, apricots, mangoes and pineapple are juicy options, as are citrus such as grapefruit, blood oranges, key limes, tangerines, and Meyer lemons. (With citrus, go all out and add the peel as well). Don’t be afraid to try complementary combinations of fruit – there’s no need to stick to just one kind.

Pineapple-Ginger-Thyme Drinking Vinegar (Cold Process Method) Drinking vinegars can keep up to six months in the refrigerator

If you’re looking for a more savoury flavour, try tomatoes or vegetables such as celery or kale. One of the benefits of making drinking vinegars is that the fruit used doesn’t have to be in peak condition – it’s okay if the cherries are nicked or the nectarines are overripe. Sweeteners are necessary in drinking vinegars to balance acidity. Sugar is the most obvious sweet additive: white granulated sugar, raw cane sugar, or brown sugars such as turbinado, demerara, or muscovado. Each will impart a slightly different flavour to the syrup. If sugar isn’t your thing, try sweet substitutes such as honey, maple, birch or agave syrups, fresh stevia leaves, or coconut sugar. Artificial sweeteners are not recommended. Herbs and spices are usually considered aromatics in shrub syrups, used to complement the other ingredients. Aromatics should be bold but not overwhelm the fruit or vegetable base: try strongly flavoured herbs and spices such as basil, rosemary, thyme, lemon verbena, or black peppercorns. Drinking vinegars can keep up to six months in the refrigerator. Over time, the sugar in the syrups may settle; if that occurs, shake the contents before using. The acetic acid in vinegar is a natural preservative and will inhibit the growth of bacteria, but drinking vinegars should be monitored for evidence of mould or discolouration. Another indicator that something is wrong is if the mixture starts to fizz or bubble. Dispose of the contents immediately and safely.

3 cups (525 g) fresh pineapple, peeled, cored, washed and chopped ¼ cup (45 g) gingerroot, washed, peeled, chopped ¼ cup (45 g) fresh thyme leaves, washed, chopped 1 cup (175 g) raw brown sugar 1 cup (240 mL) white vinegar

1. Wash two 500 mL mason jars,

lids and rings in hot, soapy water, and thoroughly rinse. Sterilize the jars by placing them on the rack of a boiling water canner (or large pot). Cover the jars with water and boil for 10 minutes. The lids may be added at the last minute.

2. Meanwhile, wash and prepare the

fruit and herbs. Place them together in a bowl and bruise them using a mortar or the back of a wooden spoon.

3. Remove the jars from the water

and add the pineapple, gingerroot, and thyme. Measure out the sugar into the jars and place the lids on the jars to seal tightly. Gently shake the contents to thoroughly combine, allow the jars to sit at room temperature for 24 to 48 hours.

Drinking vinegars and shrubs provide a refreshing way to celebrate the harvest bounty

4. The final step is to remove the lids

from the jars and add the vinegar to the fruit, herbs, and sugar. Gently mix the ingredients, then label them and place them in the fridge. Allow the jars to sit undisturbed for two to four weeks for best flavour. Before using, remove the jars from the fridge and strain the fruit and herbs through damp, unbleached cheesecloth, reserving the shrub syrup. (Don’t consign the leftover fruit and herbs to the compost heap – depending on the recipe, they make great toppings for cake or ice cream, or can even be turned into salsa!). Here is a sophisticated way to use your new drinking vinegar: 1 ½ oz Canadian whisky ¾ oz Grand Marnier ¾ oz pineapple ginger shrub syrup Angostura orange bitters

Pour over rocks and enjoy.

Strawberry-Basil Drinking Vinegar (Heat Process Method)

Try these drinking vinegar combinations or invent your own!

Some shrub makers prefer to use the heat process method, and if you don’t want to wait for your drinking vinegars to “mature,” this is the way to do it. Be sure to use the heat process method if your recipe includes herbs that chill easily such as basil.

• Saskatoon, rosemary, white granulated sugar, red wine vinegar • Strawberry, jalapeno pepper, white granulated sugar, balsamic vinegar • Mango, mint, white granulated sugar, white vinegar

3 cups (525 g) fresh strawberries, washed, hulled, stems removed, chopped 1 cup (175 g) fresh basil leaves, washed, roughly chopped 1 cup (175 g) granulated sugar 1 cup (240 mL) water 1 cup (240 mL) white wine vinegar

• Apple, lemon verbena, honey, white wine vinegar • Rhubarb, Meyer lemon, fennel, white granulated sugar, white wine vinegar • Pear, maple syrup, apple cider vinegar

1. Sterilize two 500 ml mason jars,

lids and rings as outlined above. Place sugar and water in a saucepan and heat on medium-high. Stir until the sugar dissolves, then reduce the heat.

2. Add the prepared fruit and herbs

and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes on medium-low. Remove the mixture from the heat and cool to room temperature.

3. Strain off the fruit and herbs using cheesecloth and reserve the liquid. Add the vinegar to the syrup and stir to combine.

4. Place the new drinking vinegar in

the sterilized jars, seal, and label. Store it in the refrigerator – or use the contents right away by pouring them over ice water (sparkling or non-carbonated) or to add a fruity zip to your favourite cocktail. Complementary shrub syrups can also be added to tea, fruit juice and lemonade.

• Beet, lemon, white granulated sugar, white vinegar • Cucumber, mint, honey, white wine vinegar • Elderberry, white granulated sugar, red wine vinegar • Plum, agave, apple cider vinegar Sheryl Normandeau spends an inordinate amount of time at the public library (mostly because she works there). When she’s not browsing for cookbooks in the collection, she can usually be found in her garden.

Canada’s First Indoor Cuban Cigar and Premium Spirits Event Brand new for Canada and right on our doorstep, the inaugural The Rocky Mountain Smokeout comes to Stoney Nakoda Resort & Casino the first weekend in October. Here, several hundred fellow cigar aficionados can get together and share their culture, passion, stories and interests - indoors. The show not only features the best cigars available, but also luxury products that cigar aficionados enjoy too: adult beverages such as premium wines, spirits 48

and craft beers, as well as first class food and other lifestyle products.

transports guests to Canmore and Banff for nearby attractions.

Connoisseurs of fine cigars will mingle with prominent cigar manufacturers and celebrities from around the world, in a safe environment. There’s also opportunity to participate in cigar competitions, and on Saturday, October 4th, enjoy “heli-herfing” lunch, Cuban cigars and beverages atop a mountain in the Rockies, or a wine and food pairing event in the resort. A complimentary shuttle service

Three levels of tickets include premium cigars for VIP and Regular ticket holders in take-home swag bags, and Social ticket holders enjoy spending time with their friends and finding out more about the cigar community. Rocky Mountain Smokeout October 3-4 Stoney Nakoda Resort & Casino rockymountainsmokeout.ca

Cross House in Inglewood, and asked Paul Rogalski, whom he had met while both working at La Chaumière, if he’d be interested in opening a restaurant together. They purchased Cross House and opened Rouge in March 2001. “It’s been a ten year overnight success,” laughs Reynaud. “We worked long hours and put in a lot of sweat equity, like restaurant owners do.” Their biggest accolade came in 2010 when Rouge ranked 60th in S. Pellegrino World’s 100 Best Restaurants list. So what bottle is Reynaud saving for a special occasion? There can’t be too many bottles of 1970 Bruichladdich around any more. Reynaud has always felt an affinity with the whisky as the small, innovative company are committed to local and artisanal practices, owning their own peat fields and water sources.

Open That Bottle

by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

As a fourth generation restaurateur, co-owner of Rouge Restaurant and Bistro Rouge, Olivier Reynaud’s future was almost predestined. Reynaud was born and raised in Orange in Provence, France, and at grade 10 undertook two years of Kitchen College, where he learned pretty much everything about running a restaurant. After graduating, he travelled around England, Europe and Florida before returning to France for one year’s mandatory national service. His father decided to look for a place in the tax haven of Andorra, and in 1988 Reynaud opened a restaurant there with his parents, working together for ten years. Here, he met his late wife who was Scottish, and was introduced to Scotch whisky. “I knew about it, but 50

of course having a family there I started to have a bit more of a taste for it, and I enjoyed it,” he says, “but I don’t drink it as much as I used to, mainly because it’s harder in the morning,” he adds, laughing. Seeking business opportunities, in 1999 the Reynauds relocated to Canada, first looking at B.C. but then realising that Calgary was a better economy, with more prospects for finding a job to start with. “We came over on an entrepreneur visa, so we had two years to create or invest in an existing business, which for us was a restaurant,” he explains. In 2001 he found the

“I purchased the bottle of Scotch at the beginning of Rouge,“ Reynaud explains. “Rouge wasn’t as successful then as it is today, so I bought two bottles, one to drink and one to keep - but it didn’t go down well very well when I got home with $400 of Scotch. It felt right at the time; I used to drink my share of Scotch and Bruichladdich was always one I enjoyed, so 1970 was like having a trophy.” And when might Reynaud open the whisky? “I’m going to keep it for a few more years,” he says. “One day will come, and I’ll say ‘that’s the time.’ I think it will just happen one night with friends and I will say ‘now is the time, it feels right and I’ll open it.’ I’m not a collector, I’ve got a few bottles of wine that I cellar and then sometimes for no reason I’ll open one up and drink it. I’m a drinker not a collector,” Reynaud adds. “I’ve seen a few people who didn’t have chance to enjoy their wine, and you have to enjoy the moment and not wait too long or it might be too late.”

Envision a steakhouse and cocktail lounge unlike any other... An evolved steakhouse, in both cuisine and design.

MODERN STEAK

OPENING OCTOBER 2014 @ModernSteakCA

ModernSteakCA

www.modernsteak.ca

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