Culinaire #3/6(November 2014) by Culinaire Magazine

CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 3 NO.6 :: NOVEMBER 2014

THE BEST BEERS & SPIRITS OF THE ALBERTA BEVERAGE AWARDS WARMING EATS & COOLING DRINKS

Worldly Dining | Wayfarer: Sunny Arizona | Using Spice Wisely

The Vintage Group collection of iconic restaurants have satisfied Calgary palates for over 10 years. Our locally-owned eateries offer award-winning cuisine and exceptional service. With everything from authentic Southern BBQ to Canadian comfort food, prime steaks, hearty sandwiches, and premium fresh seafood, we take pride in creating a unique and memorable dining experience.

YOUR TABLE AWAITS.

www.vintagegroup.ca

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VOLUME 3 / ISSUE #6 NOVEMBER 2014

Features 30

Wayfarer: Following The Snowbirds To The Valley Of The Sun Dining in sunny and sandy Arizona for those migrating south to escape the snow this winter. by Fred Malley CCC

2014 Alberta Beverage Awards: Beer Results The range and quality of beers judged by our panel of local beer experts in the second Alberta Beverage Awards was very exciting. by Tom Firth

2014 Alberta Beverage Awards: Spirits Results The second Alberta Beverage Awards saw a wide variety of premium spirits to be judged by our panel of local spirits experts. by Tom Firth

Departments 14

Spreading The Street Food Gospel Eats Of Asia brings the east to the west by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Find Your Best: International Food How adventurous is your dining life? by Laura Lushington, Elizabeth Chorney-Booth, Stephanie Arsenault, and Dan Clapson

24 Spice Blends 101 What’s really in your blend? by Andrea Fulmek

Keeping It Real A duo of authentic restaurants staying true to their roots by Dan Clapson and Linda Garson

Open That Bottle Kim Spence of Moxie’s and Chop Steakhouse by Linda Garson

Salutes and Shout Outs

Event Previews

Book Review

Ask Culinaire

Soup Kitchen

Chefs’ Tips — and Tricks!

Menu Gems

22 Step-By-Step Empañadas 28 6 Ways to Spice Up Pot Pies

Front cover photography by Ingrid Kuenzel with thanks to Thai Sa-On for the delicious dishes, wine, patience and beautiful tableware.

Letter From The Editor I love a little spice in my food, and welcome the opportunity to play with exotic flavours that remind me of travels to distant lands, and experiencing different cultures and their cuisines. This is one of my favourite issues, where we hear from chefs expert in working with ingredients not familiar to all of us, and learn the tricks of the trade to use them to best effect.

November, we can expect single digit temperatures (+ or -) for a few months now, and on the bright side – it’s time to brush off your spice jars and top them up with fragrant seasonings to add warmth to your dishes.

And I’m delighted to bring you the beer and spirits results of the second Alberta Beverage Awards too – 23 winning beers and 42 winning spirits over eighteen categories, nicely in time for your holiday gift planning. Thanks once again to everyone involved; producers and importers, judges, volunteers, director, and the Blackfoot Hotel, without whom it would not be possible. Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

Excerpt from a Culinaire reader: Thank you SO much for selecting my poem as the winning brunch entry! My friend and I had such a fun brekkie at Monki. How to choose from a menu chock full of all my favourites? Our meals were both top-notch for a Sunday start, and filled us up to the brim. And all of our dishes were presented with flower garnishes making everything that much more charming and delightful. We will be coming back to Monki for sure. The last four times we’ve tried to get in, the wait has been long - a good sign - but now we know to show up 10 to 20 minutes before they open to get a seat. That didn’t matter this weekend though, as they called my name from the lineup and we were seated first! Thank you again for such a special treat.

Rebecca D, Calgary

The Rockies Best Fall Colours Treat your tastebuds to the colours of fall in Canmore Kananaskis. Enjoy stunning autumn views while dining at one of our 75 restaurants. In between meals go for a hike, glide along the emerald-green waters in a canoe, explore the trails on horseback, or get pampered at the spa. It’s the perfect time for a getaway.

Start planning your fall adventures at www.tourismcanmore.com/fall

Perfectly placed in the South Okanagan

CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Consulting Publisher/ Keiron Gallagher Advertising: 403-975-7177 keirongallagher@gmail.com Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Digital Media: Mallory Frayn web@culinairemagazine.ca Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Stephanie Arsenault Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Maria Doll Mallory Frayn Andrea Fulmek Renee Kohlman Ingrid Kuenzel Laura Lushington Fred Malley CCC Karen Miller David Nuttall

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Stephanie Arsenault

Stephanie is a freelance writer and photographer, and the creator of food blog, GlobalDish.ca. She has been educated in journalism, photography, travel and tourism, and nutrition, and has her WSET ISG Wine Fundamentals certificate. When she’s not writing or taking photos, Stephanie can be found baking up a storm in the kitchen, hiking in the Rockies, or with a glass of craft beer in one hand and a fork in the other.

< Maria Doll

Originally from Ireland, Maria is an etiquette coach whose main mission is to make acquiring good manners accessible to everyone. Her background includes retail marketing plus teaching fitness & dance classes. Maria’s most rewarding career was raising her three children. She has a love of sharing knowledge with others. And she has a keen eye for anything hyper-local; loves live jazz music and learning the finer aspects of wine tasting.

< Andrea Fulmek

Andrea Fulmek is a Corporate Recruiter, freelance food writer, and full-time foodie who is proud to call Calgary her home. Aside from cooking and enjoying great food and wine, the best part for Andrea is writing about it. When she is not experimenting with new recipes or trying to incorporate chocolate into every meal, Andrea can be found hiking, antiquing, or spending time with her horse, Archie.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine. ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

erfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, Tinhorn Creek overlooks the old gold mining creek that is the winery’s namesake. We are environmental stewards of 150 acres of vineyards: “Diamondback” on the Black Sage Bench, and “Tinhorn Creek” on the Golden Mile Bench. Both provide us with the fruit to craft the superb, terroir driven wine that we’re known for. Our top tier Oldfield Series represents the finest of each vintage.

www.tinhorn.com

Salutes … Filling a need

Big wins for new Calgary business More Awards for Cococo!

Cattle Boyz of Okotoks has donated gourmet BBQ sauces with a wholesale value of $59,864.74 to the Calgary Food Bank so far this year. “We know individuals and families accessing food banks simply cannot afford to spend money on non-essential food items. We wanted to show people that we do care, and are doing something to help with hunger relief efforts, especially in our own backyard,” says company president, Joe Ternes.

Ben Put, co-founder of new Calgary coffee business, Monogram Coffee, has won the 2014 Canadian Barista Championship for the second year in a row! Last year, Put took the title and represented Canada at the World Championship. “Competing is the most exciting way to strengthen the coffee community in our city, province and nation,“ he says. Now he will represent Canada at the 2015 World Championship in Seattle – good luck Ben!

Congrats to Calgary’s Cococo Chocolatiers, the Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut company, on winning six awards at the 2014 Canadian National installment of the International Chocolate Awards. “Many of the chocolates that won awards have unique and uncommon flavour combinations, especially in the Canadian market,” says Marketing Manager, Kristen Halpen. Cococo are also very proud of recipes that seem new, but are becoming traditional, such as the Sea Salt Caramel in Milk Chocolate, which won one of their three Gold awards.

and Shout Outs … New eateries for Calgary Welcome Township Bar & Grill, now open on 6th Avenue SW in Bow Valley Square. With 24/7 happy hour every day, Township aims to provide a casual and authentic experience, whether for an after-work drink and a light bite, or dinner with top-notch rustic fare and great wine.

Village Art

Village Square from Village Brewery

Designed by, and celebrating edgy local artist, David Brunning, (aka TheKidBelo, considered by many to be Calgary’s Grandfather of Graffiti), Village Brewery has launched a winter variety pack, ‘Village Square‘, which includes a new seasonal brew Village Brunette - a German Dunkelweizen – as well as their Blonde, Blacksmith and Maiden. In his take on the Village Square, The KidBelo gathered community together to get creative, resulting in a piece of art called ‘Walk A Mile’, that spells out Village Brewery with an original human font. 6

beer, and vote for People’s Choice, all in support of sustainable seafood. Visit vanaqua.org/chowdown for more details and tickets. Chowder Chowdown People’s Choice

And next door to Township is a new premium sandwich market, Butcher & The Baker, serving up farm-fresh menu items from local producers, and supporting sustainable farming and ecofriendly packaging for their fresh breads, baked goods, hearty sandwiches and salads.

Chowder Chowdown returns 13 of our city’s top chefs are competing head-to-head with original and oceanfriendly seafood chowders at the 2nd annual Vancouver Aquarium Ocean Wise™ Chowder Chowdown on November 19, at Hyatt Regency. Try all 13 chowders paired with local craft

Chowder Chowdown People’s Choice Winner Rebecca House

YYC Pizza Week: The Results! Congratulations to all involved in another successful Calgary charity foodfest – YYC Pizza Week. Results are just released as we go to print, but they’re still tallying the amount of pizza sold - currently 2,400+ over the 45 restaurants competing; and the amount raised for Meals on Wheels – currently totaling $8,000+, from donations of $3 each pizza ($5 from the Famoso chain), 25 cents each Village Brewery beer served with a pizza, and 10% of all T shirt sales from Foodonyourshirt.com

The winners are: Thin - 500 Cucina’s ‘Triple Pig’ -

Roman style pizza with pork 3 ways, arugula and lemon

Runners up - Toscana Italian Grill’s ‘Bolognese’ and Bocce’s ‘Valle’

Thick - Gordo’s ‘Bacon Mac N’

Cheese’, topped with spicy breadcrumbs

Runners up - Lorenzo’s ‘Veal Scallopini’ and Christos’ ‘Meatballs of Fire’

Unique - Bensonhurst Pizza’s

‘Carbonara’, topped with egg and honey truffles

Runners up - Gruman’s Deli’s ‘Classic Reuben’ and Pizza Master Fusion’s ‘Samoza Master’ Watch out for news of the next three ‘YYC Weeks’ being planned right now!

he Appassimento method of drying grapes on bamboo racks to concentrate aromas and tastes is traditional for the Venetiae area. certifies Masi’s expertise in this technique in the XXI

century, on each bottle. Masi is an historic producer, open to innovation, and has re-interpreted Appassimento with modernity and originality to make its five Amarone wines and Campofiorin, the original Supervenetian.

November Events

by DAVID NUTTALL

The Eric Francis Pizza Pigout

The Grape Escape

Tickets: $30, VIP tickets: $100

Tickets: $65 per evening, available at all Calgary Co-op Liquor Stores

November 12, 6:00 pm Cowboys Dancehall 1088 Olympic Way SE

Join Eric Francis and mingle with Calgary’s biggest A-Listers at Cowboys Dancehall to taste and judge 200 of the city’s finest pizzerias! Every dime raised in this night of pizza, beer and general mayhem will go to support amazing kids through KidSport Calgary and The Big Give Foundation. A tradition since 1996. ericfrancispizzapigout.com

November 14-15, 5:00 pm-9:00 pm BMO Centre Hall D & E Stampede Park

Don’t miss these informative and entertaining evenings, featuring samplings from 60 producers of premium wine, beer and spirits, brought to you by Calgary Co-op Liquor Stores. coopwinesandspirits.com/events/the_ grape_escape Once Upon A Christmas

Bon Appetit Banff

November 13-23 Various locations in Banff and Lake Louise Participating restaurants in Banff and Lake Louise are offering unique threecourse menus, including three options per course, at an appetizing price of only $25, $35 or $45. Enjoy local cuisine at some of Canada’s best restaurants, with exclusive menus specially prepared by award-winning chefs. For a complete list of participating venues: banfflakelouise.com/bonappetitbanff Bon Appetit Banff

Banff Lake Louise Tourism / Paul Zizka Photography

November is the month for craft fairs. While they are great places for finding unique hand crafted gifts and original art, they also have some of the best locally produced products for foodies. Look for meats, candies, jams, baked goods, sauces, oils, mead and wine, as well as useful kitchen utensils. Millarville Christmas Market November 7-9, 10:00 am-4:00 pm Millarville Racetrack, Millarville millarvilleracetrack.com/event Artisan’s Fair At Fort Calgary November 11, 11:30 am to 5:00 pm Fort Calgary, 750 9th Avenue SE Free admission, donation of nonperishable food appreciated fortcalgary.com/visiting/events/#AF International Christmas Market November 14-16, 21-23, 28-30 18011 Spruce Meadows Way SW sprucemeadows.com/christmas_ market.jsp

Once Upon A Christmas

Weekends November 22-December 21, 9:30 am-4:00 pm Heritage Park 1900 Heritage Drive SW Adults: $10.25, Seniors (65+): $8.15 Youths (7-14): $6.35 Children (3-6): $5.00, 2 years and under: Free Experience the magic of Christmas past as three of the historical family homes open their doors to share their Yuletide traditions. Special holiday activities include cookie decorating, games, a petting zoo, trains, live theatre, children’s crafts, wagon rides and more. You can also enjoy the ever-popular ‘Once Upon A Christmas Breakfast Buffet’ at the Wainwright Hotel. Tickets to the buffet are sold in advance and will sell out, so purchase yours early. heritagepark.ca/plan-your-visit/eventcalendar/once-upon-a-christmas

Holiday Craft Fairs

Aspen Crossing Christmas Market November 15-16 Aspen Crossing 1 Km west of Mossleigh, AB on Highway 24 aspencrossing.com Bragg Creek Artisans Sale November 15-16, 10:00 am-5:00 pm Bragg Creek Centre, Bragg Creek Free admission and parking braggcreekartisans.com Art Market Art and Craft Sale November 20-23, 2nd level Telus Convention Centre 136 8th Ave SE Tickets only available at the door. artmarketcraftsale.com Festival Of Crafts November 27-30, 2014 BMO Centre, Stampede Park festivalofcrafts.ca

Book Reviews by KAREN MILLER

Bal’s Spice Kitchen

Bal Arneson Whitecap books 2014, $29.95 If you are ready to go beyond salt and pepper when it comes to seasoning your food, then this book is a great way to start venturing into the robust world of spices without being intimidated. The seasonings and spice blends are what you would expect from an Indian cook but the recipes are farreaching, and all truly embody the meaning of “fusion”. Try the “Baked Kale Bocconcini Salad with Sugarcane Pomegranate Dressing” (p. 50). The book begins with a glossary of the seasonings and their flavour profiles, fragrant, spicy, sweet, earthy etc., and then moves right into recipes in all the usual categories. Arneson is the author of two cookbooks on Indian cooking and the host of various culinary television shows. She is someone who cooks with ease and charisma, having learned alongside her mother at a young age. She imparts this sort of comfort in the kitchen into her recipes, which are straightforward and perfect for everyday home cooks. The recipes are also healthy and seasonal, her version of “butter chicken” being one of the top-searched recipes on the Food Network (“Grilled Chicken with NO-Butter Sauce” on p. 101). She swears by everyday staples over and over again, such as “Simply Chickpeas” (p. 78), about which she says “after eating them once you will want them again and again”. I did and I have! Arneson makes what may have seemed exotic, very approachable, and delicious. She encourages you to follow your palate, so go spice it up!

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.

Top Value RUFFINO LUMINA PINOT GRIGIO IGT 2013 – Alberta Beverage Awards 2014

Please enjoy our wines responsibly.

Ask Culinaire by MARIA DOLL

“I’ve been invited to a holiday party at my boss’s home – anything I should know to make a good impression?”

The office Christmas party, or any corporate event, is not the time to let your “hair” down. Many businesses host get-togethers to show appreciation to employees for their hard work throughout the year. These parties are a great way to solidify team building or network with other employees that you may never have occasion to see or work with regularly. Remember, you are not “clubbing”. So if your company hosts these events, they are still business oriented and you should treat them as such. • RSVP – let the organizer or boss know in plenty of time that you plan to attend or not. • Keep in mind though that your presence is actually mandatory, so if you can’t attend the reason should be valid. • If it hasn’t been mentioned, ask if guests are welcome. Choose your guest wisely as they shouldn’t be a cause of embarrassment for you in terms of their festive behaviour. 10

• Dress appropriately. For women, this means nothing too sensual, tight or revealing. This is still a business event and your professional image requires an outfit that is attractive yet low-key. Men would look polished either with or without a tie, but your attire should be business casual or work appropriate.

Be remembered at the party for all the right reasons

• Be on time - especially if the evening includes a sit-down dinner. If your boss’s home is the venue, bring along a gift such as a bottle of wine or a CD of favourite music. Don’t overstay your welcome… leave when the party is winding down. • Don’t overdo alcohol. Be moderate in your food intake. Be remembered at the party for all of the right reasons. Being intoxicated in front of your work colleagues may have negative repercussions for your future in the company.

• Introduce yourself to managers and other employees who are not well known to you. Your drink stays in your left hand so your right hand is dry for handshakes. Don’t remain for the entire evening visiting only with your team members. When striking up conversations, have appropriate topics that are pleasant and interesting. This isn’t the time to complain about the client, the workload or even your boss! • Follow-up after the party with a thank you email to the organizer or host. Upper management may use social occasions to determine who among their employees are best adapted at handling themselves well in public. Make your personal brand one in which you are known to be friendly, authentic and professional in your dealings with people on a regular basis.

Maria Doll is an Etiquette and Style Consultant, and has developed courses for youths in leadership, careers, self-image, manners and etiquette, as well as business etiquette, dining etiquette and more, for adults. Find her at leadership-matters.biz.

Soup Kitchen by DAN CLAPSON

When you walk in the door after a chilly trek home, it’s always nice to have something to get your hands on that’s warm and soothing. Whether you opt for the meaty, cheesy take on a French onion soup or the aromatic curried squash recipe, I guarantee that you’ll find comfort in each spoonful. Thai Squash and Kale Soup Serves 4, Total cook time 1 hour 1 acorn squash, halved and gutted 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil 3 red potatoes, peeled and 1 cm cubed 4 cups (1 L) chicken stock 2 cups (500 mL) water 1 yellow onion, diced 3 garlic cloves, loosely chopped 1 Tbs (15 mL) Thai red curry paste 1½ cups (360 mL) coconut milk 2½ cups green kale, stems removed, roughly chopped 1 lemon, zest and juice 2 tsp (10 mL) fish sauce 2 tsp (10 mL) soy sauce or Tamari 2 tsp cane sugar 1 tsp chilli flakes salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 400º F

cook until potatoes are fork tender, approximately 10 minutes. Set aside.

1. Place squash halves in baking dish,

3. Cook down onions and garlic with

drizzle with canola oil and roast until tender, about 20 minutes.

2. In a large pot, bring potatoes, stock and water to a boil on medium-high heat. Reduce to medium heat and 12

a bit of canola oil in a medium pan on medium-high heat until softened (5 minutes). Add the curry paste and let cook for another 5 minutes, stirring regularly. Transfer contents of pan to large pot.

4. Once the squash has been roasted,

use a large spoon to scoop its flesh out into the large pot as well. Pour coconut milk into the pot and use an immersion blender to puree until smooth.

5. Add remaining ingredients to pot,

bring to a simmer on medium heat and allow to cook for 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Caramelized Onion and Braised Pork Soup Serves 4, Total cook time 5½ hours

Braised Pork: 1 bone-in pork shoulder, approximately 1½-2 Kg 1 yellow onion, peeled and quartered 6 cups (1½ L) water 1 Tbs salt 1 tsp ground black pepper

1. Place all ingredients in a slow cooker or deep baking dish (cover with tin foil) and let cook until the meat separates easily when pulled with a fork, about 4½ hours.

2. Let pork cool and shred the meat

into large chunks, removing any excess fat that is still attached. Set aside for now. Reserve 2 cups (500 mL) of braising liquid for soup. Soup: 5 yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1½ Tbs unsalted butter 1 cup (240 mL) red wine 4 cups (1 L) chicken stock 2 cups (500 mL) reserved braising liquid 1 cup (240 mL) water 1 Tbs (15 mL) red wine vinegar 1 Tbs fresh rosemary, finely chopped 4 cups braised pork 1 cup grated Gruyere

1 cup grated provolone 4 slices of bread, lightly toasted and trimmed to fit into bowls or ramekins 4 French onion soup bowls or large, heat-safe ramekins

1. Place onions and garlic in a large pot and cook on medium-high heat for 10 minutes, stirring often.

2. Reduce to medium heat, add butter and continue to cook, stirring regularly until onions turn golden, approximately another 10-12 minutes. (If onions begin to brown too quickly, add a splash of water to the pot to help deglaze them).

3. Add red wine to the pot and

let reduce by half. Add the next 6 ingredients and let soup simmer, covered for at least 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To serve: Preheat oven to low broil. Toss grated cheeses together in a small bowl. Ladle soup into 4 bowls or ramekins, top with a slice of bread and a generous handful of grated cheese on top of each and broil until golden brown, gooey and bubbly, about 8-10 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool slightly before serving. Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside

by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Spreading The Street Food Gospel: Eats Of Asia Brings The East To The West

Growing up in a Filipino-Canadian family, food was always an important part of Jay del Corro’s life. After a brief stint working in restaurants, del Corro took a corporate job and settled into life as a foodie civilian. But, you can’t keep a man like del Corro away from his calling — before long he couldn’t resist a deep-seeded desire to share his love of food with an audience beyond his own family, and while he wouldn’t have predicted it five years ago, del Corro is now full-time as the owner and cook of the wildly popular Eats of Asia. Del Corro’s professional food career started as a hobby when in 2009 he started posting cooking videos on YouTube and his video blog under the name The Aimless Cook. Viewers loved his casual, upbeat style and easy-tofollow recipes, often for classic Asian dishes. Today the Aimless Cook has over 35,000 YouTube subscribers and del 14

Corro was the only Canadian invited to participate in YouTube’s 2011 Next Chef competition. But while del Corro loved sharing his recipes with his audience, he yearned for an even more direct way to get the food he loved to the people. Nowadays del Corro’s Aimless Cook videos come out at a much less frequent pace because he’s busy with Eats of Asia, which he originally started as a stall in the Millarville Farmers Market in 2012. After his YouTube success, del You can’t keep a man like del Corro away from his calling

Corro knew there was a demand for the kind of Asian street food he was making in his videos, so he took the plunge and the first version of Eats of Asia was born. “When we started in Millarville it was a really tough sell,” del Corro says. “There were a lot of locals in that market. So it took a while to get our momentum building and to get our audience. There were a lot of ranchers who may not have had curry laksa. My wife was really good at being that interpreter and she really broke down a lot of barriers. But here in Calgary people are a lot more open and accepting, and willing to do that culinary exploration.”

Outgrowing Millarville Market, del Corro moved Eats of Asia to the Market on McLeod (then Kingsland Market), where he still has to explain his dishes sometimes, but finds that Calgarians are getting the hang of the Asian street food theme. Serving up bowls of congee, chili miso ramen, spam musubi, Korean dirty fries, bao, beef machado, and whatever else he feels like making, Eats of Asia is inspired by the ever-growing street food movement that’s taking over hipper areas all over North America. del Corro was the only Canadian invited to participate in YouTube’s 2011 Next Chef competition

“I knew that I love Asian food and that I loved sharing via my channel. And at the time there were a lot of great things going on in the food world,” del Corro says. “So I was inspired to do the same thing. In San Francisco Danny Bowien was doing Mission Chinese Food and that really inspired me to think outside the box. I thought, why can’t we do that here?” And it’s worked out well. While some people may see stalls in farmers’ markets and food trucks as less prestigious than bricks and mortar restaurants, del Corro loves the

freedom that comes with a restaurant that is essentially portable. He can cook pretty much whatever he wants and experiment with new dishes — all completely in line with the spirit of North American street food, which del Corro thinks is still just getting into full swing. “I see it as a scene that has a lot of opportunity still. I see there’s a lot of potential for markets here as long as people get their heads on the right tracks,” del Corro says. “Like food halls that are incubators for young budding entrepreneurs. We can really foster that community here in Calgary. I think a lot of people see markets as a really good way to go get some produce and then take it home and feel good about themselves. But they’re becoming a very good place for entrepreneurs to get their start. People who are doing wonderful and beautiful things.” Last December, del Corro finally left his corporate job, making Eats of Asia his full time gig. This February he bought

4 St NW

a food truck that he brings to events, making his street eats available to people who don’t necessarily find their way to the Market on McLeod. Del Corro would like to open a full-fledged fast casual restaurant, but for now he’s really happy with the freedom that he gets with his space in the market and mobile location. “The most fun about this business is that we get to do it the way we want to.” Del Corro says. “I love just playing with new items and doing new things and seeing how they get accepted. That’s the most fun for me.” Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, and co-founder/co-editor of RollingSpoon.com. She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs.

Oak & Vine, Calgary’s Destination for Craft Beer! Over 600 craft & import beer in stock, New brands & seasonal styles arriving every week, Home to the “Pick 6” Craft Wall (make your own sampler six-pack), Independently owned & operated.

Chefs' Tips Tricks! story by MALLORY FRAYN photography by INGRID KUENZEL

When whipping up dinner at home, you don’t have to be a master of ethnic cooking to be able to harness some of the amazing worldly flavours one can experience in cuisines like Thai or Indian. See how two chefs work with wonderful spices, incorporating them into warming dishes, perfect for this time of year. Canvas Bistro “People get scared when they hear the word ‘spice’ – they automatically associate it with ‘spicy’,” says Chef Guru Singh of Canvas Bistro, 11th Avenue SW. That doesn’t have to be the case though. Cumin, coriander and saffron are all

“spices”, but with no inherent heat, so there is nothing to fear. When cooking with spices, Chef Guru emphasizes that they should be used to enhance rather than flavour. Spices are there to complement the main components of a dish, rather than being the only thing you taste. When cooking with spices, they should be used to enhance rather than flavour “I make a spice blend of about 8 different spices and I often sprinkle a pinch of it on top to finish a dish,” Chef Guru says. The result is not a mouthful of spice, but rather hints of different flavours here and there. One bite you may taste cinnamon and the next you get a whisper of cloves. Another way to add subtle undertones of spice to your food is to create flavoured stocks. You can get more depth by throwing in a couple of extra ingredients like cinnamon sticks or whole cloves. The subtle flavours of fall

infused into a basic stock make any soup you’re preparing more dynamic. Chef Guru uses a vegetable stock like this as a base for his saffron risotto. Because the stock itself is relatively restrained, it allows the pure flavour of the rice and white wine to come through. Merely a few threads of saffron added to the par-cooked risotto will seep their rich, amber colour into the creamy rice. Saffron works its magic all on its own. He adds that depending on where your saffron comes from – Spain (this is the origin of most packaged saffron in Calgary) or India, it will offer differences in both flavour and colour. No matter what type of cuisine you are cooking, Chef Guru says that a restrained and delicate hand can use spices to enhance almost any dish imaginable.

See culinairemagazine.ca for Chef Singh’s Vegetable Broth recipe

Saffron Mushroom Risotto

Good chillies are a key player in any bring-on-the-heat Thai sauce and Chanhao even imports many of his ingredients from Thailand to stay true to his roots. Sometimes the chillies are sliced and simply mixed with fish sauce and lime juice, a great way to spice up simple, roast chicken or pork loin, especially in a hurry. You can also try making your own chilli oil by dry roasting whole chillies in a scorching hot pan, pureeing them with a bit of oil and then sautéing everything again to round out the flavours.

Chef Guru Singh of Canvas Bistro

Thai Sa-On

Saffron Mushroom Risotto Serves 8

2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil ½ medium red onion, finely chopped ½ cup wild mushrooms (cremini, chanterelle, portabello) 2 cups Arborio rice ½ cup (120 mL) dry white wine ½ tsp saffron strands, soaked in 4 tsp (20 ml) hot water 75 g freshly grated Parmesan cheese 2 Tbs (30 mL) heavy cream Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt 2 cups (500 mL) vegetable broth

1. In a wide pot, warm up the oil on

medium heat, add the onions and sauté until translucent in colour. Lower the heat and add the Arborio rice, stirring often so it doesn’t burn. Let it lightly toast to a golden colour. Stir in the wine and allow the rice to absorb it.

2. Add a ladle of broth, letting the rice

absorb it all before adding the next ladle.

3. Mix in the saffron, stir and cook for around 7 minutes. Add pepper and salt to taste. Once the rice is tender but not overly soft add the Parmesan and cream, stirring for 2 minutes.

4. In a separate small frying pan, sauté

the mushrooms in 1 tsp oil until crispy. Garnish the risotto with the mushrooms and a leaf of fresh basil.

Thai Sa-On

A sauce made up of only a few ingredients can do wonders to add some spice to anyone’s life!

If there is one thing that Thai food is known for, it’s spice. It’s a fair reputation – Thai bird chillies definitely have the potential to blow your head off – but when you eat dishes like Pad Thai, the heat doesn’t overwhelm you. So what’s the secret? “Thai food is all about balance,” says Sam Chanhao, owner of Thai Sa-On restaurant on 10th Avenue SW. Spice is a huge part of Thai cooking, yet most dishes are not inherently spicy. Instead, ingredients like lemongrass and ginger are added for underlying heat, but more so for depth of flavour. When spicy chillies are incorporated into a dish, they are balanced out with some ‘yin’ (like coconut milk) to their ‘yang’ pairings.

Thai food is all about balance If something is too spicy for you, try adding a splash of vinegar to mellow it out, whether lime juice or rice wine vinegar. A pinch of sugar or a few drops of fish sauce also do wonders for achieving the perfect sweet, salty, spicy balance. Another trick when it comes to taming heat in a dish is to start off with a mild dish and offer some spicy condiments on the side so that everyone can add as much as they like.

Thai Chilli Sauce Yields 2/3 cup (180 mL) Total prep time 5 minutes 6 Thai chillies, sliced ½ cup (120 mL) fish sauce 4 Tbs (60 mL) fresh lime juice 1 clove garlic, minced 1 small shallot sliced, optional

Mix all ingredients together in a small bowl. Let sit (room temperature is fine) for at least 30 minutes to let flavours infuse. Use as desired.

See culinairemagazine.ca for Thai Sa-On’s Thai Dried Ground Chilli recipe

Mallory is a food writer living and learning in Calgary, and Culinaire’s Digital Media Editor. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter @cuzilikechoclat 17

Menu Gems With temperatures dropping, we asked our contributors for their favourite soul-warming dishes in our city’s restaurants…

Baked French Onion Soup, Yellow Door Bistro

There is just something about a big bowl of this soup that I can’t get enough of when the snow starts to fall. Oxtail, a rich broth, tons of cheese on top...sounds like the definition of ‘warming’ to me! Dan Clapson

Bandeja Columbiana, Blue House Café

There’s a great little restaurant tucked away in the NW called The Blue House Café, serving this delectable delight. Sirloin steak charbroiled with Columbian spices and served on a bed of beans topped with strips of bacon. A wonderful homey ethnic dish enjoyed while listening to live flamenco guitar music. Maria Doll

Traditional Butter Chicken, Karma Fine Indian Cuisine

Karma’s Traditional Butter Chicken (not to be mistaken with their sweeter, non-traditional version) is simply irresistible. Tender chunks of chicken are tossed in a spicy tomato-based cream sauce. The incredible flavour and extra kick of spice in this dish separate it from many other butter chicken dishes. Coconut rice and garlic naan bread are lovely additions to balance out the heat. Andrea Fulmek

Snow Dragon - Higher Ground

When the weather turns cold, I head to Kensington’s Higher Ground for my favourite tea latte. The Snow Dragon is caffeine-free and a delightful combination of peppermint tea and vanilla syrup. Minty and sweet, it’s the perfect drink for a late-night coffee shop reunion with a friend. Laura Lushington

Burgoo, Big T’s BBQ Clam Chowder, Catch & The Oyster Bar

I don’t know what it is, but when the weather starts to dip, my soul starts to crave the chowder at Catch - rich, creamy, full-on delicious. I’ll often pop by after a meeting or tasting in the winter for a bowl and a pint before braving the road home. Tom Firth

Wild Mushroom Soup, Cilantro

I love mushrooms in any form. Raw, roasted, grilled, you name it. Mushroom soup? Classic. Cilantro makes a hearty version with great texture, chock full of mushrooms and other vegetables, complete with a Parmesan crisp on top. It is pleasantly peppery too, perfect for warming you up on a chilly Calgary day. Mallory Frayn 18

The strange name ‘Burgoo’ belies an explosion on your taste buds. This Kentucky style stew is an ultimate comfort food, with a rich tomato sauce bridging the smoky flavours of BBQ lamb, chicken and beef brisket. It puts a smile on your face. Fred Malley

Veggie Classic Ramen, Shiki Menya

Nothing beats the warming homemade broth topped with fresh greens and onions and the perfectly balanced “rayou” chili oil from Shiki Menya. As the weather gets colder the cravings come more often, and each and every time it is worth the wait! The music is great, the service fast and I leave happy, happy every time. Karen Miller

Find Your Best:

International Cuisine by DAN CLAPSON

If variety is the spice of life then surely that must translate to our dining lives as well! Take this simple quiz to find out which International cuisine is a match for your taste buds. No matter where you land, you’ll be able to find something that hits the spot this chilly month. 1. My spice tolerance is best described as… a) moderate, I can handle some heat. b) minimal, cayenne pepper and I aren’t best friends. c) infinite. Bring on the chilli oil! 2. I’d drive for ______ minutes out of downtown for an interesting meal. a) 10 minutes. b) 20-25 minutes. c) Drive? I’m walking! 3. Familiarity of ingredients when I’m looking at a menu is… a) irrelevant. I’m up for adventure. b) recognizing some things is preferred. c) I don’t eat anything I can’t pronounce.

4. The restaurant atmosphere I’m dining in needs to be… a) fun and engaging, but not too fancy. b) clean, but busy. c) sort of hole-in-the-wall. I like that hidden gem kind of feeling. 5. When I go out for dinner with friends we like to… a) share some starters, but have our own mains. b) order a whole bunch of different things and go to town. c) stick to our own plates, thank you very much! 6. This food is making me thirsty. I need a… a) big glass of water. b) a nice glass of red wine. c) a well-made cocktail.

7. If I’m aiming to eat at a place with more of an international flare I do it… a) over the lunch hour. b) in the evening so I can savour the experience. c) sometimes at lunch and sometimes in the evening. I’m led by my appetite. 8. If I’m dining at an establishment and not familiar with their type of food, I will … a) ask for some help with what to order. b) order the first recognizable dish I see. c) just pick something that sounds mysterious, it will probably be tasty.

Juree’s Thai Place

here, so you know you’ll be well taken care of when you’re popping in for a bite. This southeastern Asian style of cooking is all about finding harmony between sweet, sour and spice, resulting in a myriad of dishes that are both vibrant and fresh, but equally as comforting in the cooler months of the year.

Juree’s Thai Place (mostly As)

by DAN CLAPSON

Juree’s Thai Place

Safari Grill (mostly Bs)

by LAURA LUSHINGTON

While many restaurants offer international flavours our palates have become accustomed to, it can be refreshing to transport your taste buds to a continent many of us only dream of visiting – Africa. Hidden in a southeast plaza just off Memorial Drive, Safari Grill offers East African cuisine so good that it might become your new favourite comfort food. Don’t be intimidated by the large menu, hard to pronounce dishes or zebra-print tablecloths and plates, once you taste the African spices, you won’t want to leave.

In what was formerly a Burger King just west of Northhill Mall, Juree’s has always been one of the city’s best eateries to head to when you’ve got an insatiable craving for well-crafted Thai cuisine. The ‘place’ itself has a sort of tropical-meets-cozy vibe to its interior with bamboo and green walls accented by large works of art. The service staff are just as warm as your surroundings in Salmon and the Karai Masala Chicken, because with the generous portions you’ll have more than enough leftover to satisfy your midnight craving for another dose of African fare.

Of course, this spot has the go-to Thai dishes like tom yum soup, green papaya salad and pad thai, but other signatures like Juree’s hot and sour seafood soup, gailan with crispy pork or the whole fried fish that’s served up with an addicting tamarind sauce will definitely steal the limelight on the table. Finish off by ordering some sticky coconut rice with mango and call it a night well spent. 2055 16 Ave NW, 403-264-6477 jureesthaiplace.com 100-255 28 Street SE 403-235-6655 safarigrillcalgary.com, @SafariGrill

The spices and names of menu items won’t be a far departure from those found in Indian restaurants, but the skill and attention to the balance of flavours are what set the Safari Grill apart.

Start your safari (bring a friend) with the Masala Mogo – deep-fried cassava in a spicy tomato sauce – to warm up your palate. Then, share the droolworthy Beef Short Ribs. Choose a couple entrees like the Signature Safari Grill

Safari Grill

Shikiji Japanese Noodles and Sushi (mostly Cs)

by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

New ramen joints have been popping up all over the city lately, but Shikiji, located on the busy intersection of Centre Street and 16th Avenue North, has been serving up some of Calgary’s most authentic Japanese noodle bowls for years. The small and always-packed restaurant may not seem that different from your average Calgary sushi place when you walk through the doors (generic dark-coloured tables and chairs, a sushi bar for singles and couples to sit at, your typical Japanese-style teapots and tableware), but the menu goes far beyond the tempura and sushi that you’ll find at most local Japanese restaurants. Shikiji’s sushi is good, but you’re cheating yourself if you don’t go for

Añejo

(mix of As, Bs and Cs)

one of their big, rich noodle bowls. They offer different varieties of ramen (with house-made pork broth, of course), soba, and udon, as well as eight kinds of donburi, which is a Japanese rice bowl. The Shio Ramen, served with either fatty or less-fatty pork, is always a good bet, but the Chili Goma Ramen (also served at Shikiji’s hipper sister

restaurant Shiki Menya) is the cult favourite for good reason. Flavourful, spicy, and big enough for two to share if you get some sushi on the side, this is the perfect Japanese comfort food to heat up your palate and your belly. 1608 Centre St NE 403-520-0093

Añejo

by STEPHANIE ARSENAULT

When it comes to Mexican food, Calgary has a pretty solid assortment of restaurants to choose from. If you’re looking for one with an enticing menu and a selection of tequila that rivals Mexico itself, Añejo is where it’s at. The street-side patio, daily happy hour, and stunning décor, all make for a gem in the heart of Mission.

Añejo

The tequila can be enjoyed by the ounce or in a flight, but if you prefer a mixed drink, try out one of Añejo’s tasty cocktails (mostly tequila-based, of course). For an authentic experience, try their classic margarita, or switch it up with one of the fun twists on the standard, like strawberry rhubarb, or the highly addictive chilli coconut.

gluten-free, lactose-free, and vegetarian options. The fare is authentic with an upscale twist and the occasional use of non-traditional ingredients. Not sure what to order? Try the ceviche tasting with scallops, shrimp, and salmon; the B.L.G. Hamburguesa, a pork and beef burger, Añejo-style; or the tacos, with your choice of short rib, crispy snapper, wild mushroom, or pork belly ($5 each). The guacamole is also a must-have, made with fresh ingredients right at your table for an experiential dining affair.

There’s no shortage of items to choose from, and there’s something for all lovers of Mexican food – including

#2, 2116 – 4th Street SW 587-353-2656 anejo.ca, @anejoyyc 21

Step By Step: Empañadas

story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

Traditionally eaten as street food in Central and South America, these savoury turnovers are great for snacking on the go, but also make a darn fine light supper. Often, empañadas are fried, but I lightened them up a little by brushing them with egg wash and baking them for about 25 minutes. The whole wheat pastry is still crispy and provides a boost of dietary fibre (just don’t tell your kids). Empañadas also freeze beautifully, so go ahead and make a double batch. You’ll be happy you did, on a particularly busy weeknight. Just bake from frozen, adding another 10 minutes or so on to the cooking time. One bite, and you can pretend you’re tangoing down the streets of Buenos Aires instead of shuffling the kids off to hockey in a snowsuit!

Whole Wheat Empañada Dough Makes 12 empañadas.

Empañadas also freeze beautifully, so go ahead and make a double batch. You’ll be happy you did, on a particularly busy weeknight. Just bake from frozen, adding another 10 minutes or so on to the cooking time. One bite, and you can pretend you’re tangoing down the streets of Buenos Aires instead of shuffling the kids off to hockey in a snowsuit!

22 22

This is a great pastry dough; flaky and delicious, it’s perfect for bundling up savoury fillings. I usually make a double batch and keep the other in the freezer you know, for pastry emergencies. Dough: 1½ cups whole wheat flour ¾ cup unbleached all purpose flour 1½ tsp salt ½ cup cold unsalted butter, cut into 1 cm cubes 1 large egg 1/3 cup (80 mL) ice water, more if necessary 1 Tbs (15 mL) white vinegar

Egg wash: 1 egg 1 Tbs (15 mL) water

1. Mix flours and salt in a large bowl.

Cut in butter with a pastry blender, incorporating the butter so there are still pea-sized bits left.

2. In a small bowl, beat together egg,

water, and vinegar. Pour into the flour mixture. Stir with a fork until dough comes together and still shaggy. Note: you may need to add more ice water.

3. Turn out onto lightly floured counter

and knead a few times to bring it into a ball. Flatten into a rectangle and chill for at least one hour in the fridge.

4. Cut dough into 12 pieces, weighing them to be approximately 55 g each.

5. On a lightly floured surface, roll out each ball to a 12-15 cm circle. Carefully place ⅓ cup filling in centre.

6. Brush the edges with egg wash. Fold

one edge over into a half moon shape. Pinch and crimp edges closed. Once all empañadas have been prepared, brush tops with egg wash and with a sharp knife, make a few slits so steam can escape.

7. Preheat oven to 400º F and bake on

parchment lined baking sheet for 23-26 minutes, or until golden. Serve with salsa and sour cream.

Three Sisters Vegetarian Filling The marriage of corn, beans and squash is traditionally known as “Three Sisters.” Iroquois legend has it these were grown next to each other because they needed less tending. Beans send their vines up the stalks of corn, while the large squash leaves provide shade and moisture for the roots. Also, the colours are pretty and it’s a smashing flavour combination that’s also a complete protein. Kicked up with a little heat, and some Cheddar cheesy goodness, these empañadas are nutritious and delicious. These savoury turnovers are great for snacking on the go, but also make a darn fine light supper 2 medium zucchini, cut into 1 cm cubes 1 cup of corn, fresh or frozen 3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil salt and pepper 1 cup cooked black beans 1 cup aged cheddar, shredded ½ cup green onion, sliced 4 Tbs cilantro, chopped 2 Tbs jalepeño pepper, finely chopped 2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp chili powder 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp garlic powder

Preheat oven to 400º F.

1. Place zucchini and corn on baking

sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and fresh pepper. Roast, turning a few times, for 20-25 minutes until vegetables are golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool.

2. In a large bowl, stir together

remaining ingredients. Add the roasted zucchini and corn, stir to incorporate, and season to taste. Let cool completely before proceeding to make empañadas.

Beef Empañada Filling This fragrant filling is drawn from Chilean, Argentinean and Puerto Rican influences. Another variation is to add a couple of slices of hardboiled egg on top of the filling before folding pastry over. The addition of green olives and figs (or raisins) may seem odd at first, but they add a lovely dimension to these bitesized treats.

1. Heat oil in large Dutch oven. Add

2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 500 g lean ground beef 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp chilli powder 3 Tbs chopped dried figs, or raisins 3 Tbs chopped green olives 2 cups chopped fresh tomatoes salt and pepper

tomatoes. Cook until reduced, yet still moist, about another 5 minutes. Season to taste, and let cool completely before making empañadas.

onion and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes.

2. Stir in beef, garlic, cumin, oregano,

coriander, chilli powder, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until beef is no longer pink, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in chopped figs, olives and

Renée Kohlman is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon. She writes restaurant reviews for The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and whips up delicious gluten-free dessert creations at Leyda’s Café. Check out her blog sweetsugarbean.com 23

Spice Blends 101:

What’s Really In Your Blend? by ANDREA FULMEK

Most of us hear the words “Thai curry” or “garam masala” and our mouths start to water at the sheer thought of soups, sauces and seasoned meat in all of their spicy, aromatic goodness. We can visualize the yellows and oranges of these spice blends and taste the abundant sweet and savoury notes that these spice concoctions pack into our favourite dishes, but can we really identify what makes them so delicious and distinct? 24

While most of us find these spice blends in quaint little packages or jars at the grocery store, so few of us ever question what curry is, or at least consciously choose to see it as a delicious entity of its own. Sorry, curry and spice blend lovers alike—here’s what’s really in that kitchen cupboard of yours! Asian Five Spice – There is still some uncertainty around the origin of Asian five spice, it is believed that the Chinese were hoping to encompass all five flavours: sour, bitter, sweet, salty and umami. Regardless of how this spice came to be, the blend of cinnamon, cloves, fennel, star anise and Szechwan peppercorns makes for a lovely addition to your favourite fish, rice or vegetable dish. Though the name of this blend prides itself on the number five, many store bought blends also contain nutmeg and ginger to add a bite. Never tried Asian 5 spice? The blend adds nice heat to dry rubs and goes especially well with pork.

Jamaican Jerk Spice – Jerk spice traditionally relies on allspice and the often-underestimated habanero pepper that gives jerk spice its heat. While allspice is considered a staple in jerk blends, cloves, thyme, cinnamon, scallions, garlic, nutmeg and black pepper are other common ingredients in this blend. Often confused as a spice of its own, “jerk” actually refers to the way that a meat (commonly chicken and pork) is seasoned and cooked. Though this blend is often perceived to be intolerably hot, Jamaican jerk spice blends existent in North America often contain cayenne in the place of habanero peppers for those who prefer “medium” on a heat scale. Thai Curry Paste - Like many spice blends and pastes available to us, every brand differs in ingredients, but the majority of Thai curry pastes will consist of shrimp paste, chillies, onions/ shallots, garlic, lemongrass, galangal and coriander. Depending on the paste, you

the overall intensity of the spices and not necessarily the heat of the blend, chilli peppers are still considered a key ingredient of garam masala (“masala,” meaning “mixture of spices”).

can also find turmeric, pepper, coriander seeds, cardamom pods and cumin as part of this tangy blend. While there are dozens of curry pastes around, red, green and yellow are the three most popular Thai curry pastes available to us. The spiciness of Thai curries largely depends on the amount and type of chilli pepper used in the paste. Whether you add a couple of tablespoons into your favourite stir-fry or use it as use as a soup base (see Soup Kitchen this month), this flavourful blend is sure to please.

Few of us ever question what curry is

Cajun Spice - Often mistaken for being near incendiary on a heat scale, a properly balanced Cajun spice blend, containing cumin, coriander, paprika, salt, pepper and oregano will never steer you wrong. This combination can be spiced up in a number of ways with cayenne, garlic, onion powder and thyme. Like many other spice blends, Cajun spice is incredibly easy to make at home, but beware of adding too much salt to your blend, as many recipes call for a touch too much.

Garam Masala – Arguably the king of Indian spice blends, garam masala is at the heart of most Indian dishes. This tasty spice blend is said to have originated in Northern India where six ingredients are mainly used: cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, mace, cassia and nutmeg. In addition to these ingredients, cumin, coriander, peppercorns, ginger, bay leaves, and dried chilli pepper are also considered to be equally as important. As if the list isn’t long enough, it is also not uncommon to find blends containing various herbs, garlic, onion or even nuts like cashews. While the Hindi word “garam” refers to

Mole Sauce - Also known as “chocolate sauce,” this richly spiced sauce begins with at least one type of chilli pepper (ancho and chipotle chillies are commonly used) and can contain upwards of twenty different ingredients. Twenty! While the addition of chocolate is optional in many mole recipes, mole sauce typically calls for cloves, cumin, tomatillos, garlic, and dried fruit to balance out the heat. Traditional mole sauces strive to balance more than just the heat, so it should come as no surprise that chillies, tomatillos, dried fruit/sugars and nuts are often ingredients of choice to achieve a sweet and tangy sauce. Because the roasting and stewing process is key to perfecting a thick mole sauce and bringing out the flavours, the stewing process is a perfect time to add an additional ingredient or two—perhaps more chocolate?

Recruiter by day, writer and foodie by night, Andrea finds nothing more exciting than grocery shopping and baking with chocolate. If dessert could be eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner, she would be one happy camper.

Keeping It Real: A Duo Of Authentic Latin American Restaurants Staying True To Their Roots by DAN CLAPSON AND LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Well-prepared Latin American cuisine isn’t something you can readily find in this city. Sure, there are no shortages of options when you’re looking for a taco or a burrito, but let’s be honest here, casual Mexican fare is only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the broad spectrum of cooking styles that the term ‘Latin American’ encompasses. As much as the ingredients across our vast country can vary due to seasonality and micro-climates, effecting different provinces’ culinary focuses, cuisines like Peruvian, Venezuelan or Puerto Rican all have their own identities when it comes to their food. So, if you’ve been thinking that Latin American can be summed up with a bowl of guacamole and some warm tortilla chips, then let these two fine establishments prove you so very, very wrong.

Inti Restaurant Hiding in the city’s northeast is Inti Peruvian restaurant – ‘Peruvian food? I’ve never heard of it before!’ you might say, which is a typical reaction from first-time customers according to executive chef/owner Hans Puccinelli. “You can see their faces and they’re truly amazed. Some people said ‘we never expected it to be that good”, he says smiling proudly. Classically trained, and with numerous executive chef positions behind him, Chef Puccinelli comes from a family who are passionate about their food. The warmth of the welcome you’ll receive here is memorable, with mom Consuelo (a lawyer who loves to cook), and dad Miguel (an economist in Peru) joining their son, and wife, Angela, responsible for desserts. Authenticity is key - from the artefacts on the wall donated by a ninety-year old lady whose children weren’t interested in them, under the condition that people would see them - to the spices used in the dishes. “I made sure before I opened the restaurant that we could have these ingredients, because as a chef I think if it doesn’t have the right ingredients it’s not honest.” explains Puccinelli. This includes herbs such as black mint, that only grows above 3,000 metres in the Andes, and used to marinade

Executive Chef/Owner Hans Puccinelli, Inti Restaurant ,

Inti’s Fall Herb Roasted Chicken

Visit culinairemagazine.ca for Inti’s Fall Herb Roasted Chicken recipe, using easy to find ingredients

probably Inti’s most well loved dish, the addictive Pollo a la Brasa, flameroasted rotisserie chicken that has been marinated in a secret blend of Peruvian herbs. Oops, not so secret now! Indigenous Peruvian peppers are used carefully to give the dishes their distinctive flavours. You’ll find aji amarillo in Papa a la Huancaina, a popular appetizer dish of cold Yukon Gold potatoes coated in a creamy and lightly spiced Queso Fresco sauce, and also julienned in Lomo Saltado - a stir fry of beef tenderloin, ripe tomatoes and sweet red onions in a tangy sauce. Cilantro Braised Beef is a firm favourite, as well as Carapulcra, a traditional pork and potato stew prepared by the Incas over five hundred years ago, with a plate-licking sauce made from peanuts and aji panca, an indigenous pepper that lends a unique flavour to the dish.

You’ll find Peruvian staples of quinoa, yuca (cassava), and a choice of twelve different sauces on the buffet, with little cups close to hand so you can try them all. But it doesn’t end there, Angela’s desserts and drinks are made from the specialty purple corn. Refreshing Chicha Morada, can be enjoyed on it’s own or mixed with a pisco sour for the signature house cocktail, Inti Bliss, and in Mazamorra Morada, a fruit pudding regularly served with Arroz Con Leche –creamy coconut rice pudding to you and me! Inti means the sun in Qechua, an Inca language, and Sabroso means pleasurable, lovely… so branch out and bring a little delicious warmth into your dining this winter! Inti, 3132 26 Street NE Unit 208 587-352-5599 inti-restaurant.com, @IntiRestaurant

Your chance to win dinner for four at Inti Restaurant! Yes, you can win a buffet dinner for you and three friends at Inti! For your chance to win this very delicious prize, simply go to culinairemagazine.ca and let us know the most exotic food you’ve ever had in a restaurant or at home. Good luck, we can’t wait to hear from you!

Sabroso

Sabroso Even though Sabroso is on quite a busy road - 14th Street SW - it has managed to remain somewhat unknown since opening its doors. Those that discover it though know that they’ve found something special. Although it maintains its under-theradar status, the restaurant’s interior is by no means basic, reminding us that hidden gems and hole-in-the-walls are two very different things. Yes, there’s definitely a certain charm about this room from the stand-up bass leaning up against a well-worn cabinet and the metal-accented lanterns that give off a golden hue in the evening, to the deep red walls and chestnut brown floors. It’s an atmosphere that immediately warms you up once you step in off the cold, snowy sidewalk. Drawing flavours from many countries south of the American border, Chef Michael de Guzman constructs small plates like prawn and scallop ceviche, calamari (a must try) chicken and black bean soup and tostadas topped with queso fresco and avocado cream. When it comes to the more filling mains, Sabroso’s seco de pollo (a ‘cilantroinfused’ chicken) is plated up with winter vegetables and chipotle mashed potatoes for a subtle smoky heat that you feel more and more after each bite. Sabroso’s menu is the same for lunch they’ve recently started doing weekend brunch as well - but the lunch hour is the optimal time of day to experience

one of their arepas. Tender cornflour based buns are stuffed full of either grilled steak, chicken, pulled pork or vegetables and served up with plantain chips and salad. If that’s not filling enough for you, start off with an order of beef anticuchos (beef skewers) rubbed with oregano and chipotle. If you’re feeling especially hungry, the signature snapper with a green olive and tomato sauce or the steak topped with light and bright chimichurri should hit the spot, but don’t be so quick to overlook the grilled lamb chops. Tender and juicy, in a guajillo pepper sauce and rice, it’s a dinner dish that pairs perfectly with a glass of red wine, window-side watching the snowfall (see culinairemagazine.ca for the recipe!) Whatever you’re sipping on or forking into at your table at Sabroso, there is no reason why you should walk out the door at the end of the night without having a plate of the cinnamon churros. Sweet, warm, doughy and dusted with sugar - that you’ll need to happily lick off your fingers, of course - it’s the sort of thing that dreams are made of my friends. Sweet dreams. Sabroso, 1504 16 Ave SW 587-350-2679 sabrosos.ca, @SabrosoYYC 27

by LAURA LUSHINGTON

When the weather turns cold and sweaters become necessity instead of a fashion choice, it’s time to start warming yourself up from the inside out. Pot pies are a perfect choice for blustery fall evenings. Just the thought of pulling a baking sheet full of bubbling ramekins out of the oven gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling. Here are six simple updates you can make to a classic pot pie recipe. Try them alone or meld a couple of tips together as in the following recipe from the talented Calgary chef, Mel LaFleur. 1. A meaty choice

Chicken pot pie is usually the go-to choice here, but don’t limit yourself to this everyday bird. Pot pies are easily adaptable to whatever meat you might have in the fridge, or can become upscale with the addition of gourmet proteins. Tofu is also a great option for vegetarians. Try: - Ham, ground beef, steak - Shrimp, lobster, scallops - Turkey, duck

2. Try a new spice

Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme — these lyrics make it easy to remember the spices most commonly used in pot pies, but you’re not reading this to learn the basics. Give your dish a new tune and choose different spices. Try: - Jamaican jerk rub - Red curry paste - Garam Masala

3. Transform your topping

Working with puff pastry or making your own dough can be the most intimidating part of making pot pies. Luckily, there a few options that are less tedious but just as delicious. Try: - Drop biscuits (Yes, I mean the premade ones) - Mashed potatoes (a la Shepherd’s Pie) - Phyllo dough - Cornbread

4. Cheese please

Cheese can be added to your pot pie’s filling, incorporated into your dough, or simply sprinkled on top. The ooeygooey-ness only increases your pot pie’s ability to soothe your comfort food craving. Try: - Feta (would work great with a Mediterranean Pot Pie) - Provolone, mozzarella or brie (like in the recipe on the right) - Cheddar (try a jalapeno cheddar on top of a Taco Pot Pie)

5. Boozy pot pies

Adding a splash of your favourite liqueur or wine will boost your pot pie’s flavour. Pour in a tablespoon or two along with the other liquids in your pot pie’s filling. Plus, curling up with a glass of wine and a pot pie in front of a fireplace sounds like the perfect Friday night at home. Try: - Cognac - A dry red wine like malbec or cabernet sauvignon - Cider

6. More than peas and carrots

Using only peas and carrots in your pot pie is plain and boring. These vegetable combinations along with a different type of protein will have your friends calling you a culinary genius. Or, forget the meat and delve into a vegetarian pot pie! Try: - Mediterranean Pot Pie with mushrooms, spinach, artichoke hearts and olives - Fennel and onion with lobster - Taco Pot Pie with black beans, corn, and red peppers, with ground beef

Chicken and Sweet Potato Pot Pie

Recipe courtesy Mel LaFleur, corporate chef of One Horn Group (Below Deck Tavern, The Libertine Public House, The Unicorn Pub). “This is a great spin on a classic pot pie, and really encompasses all the great flavours of fall,” says the chef. Serves 4 (French onion soup bowls or large heatsafe ramekins are recommended) Cooking time approximately 1 hour 2 puff pastry sheets (store bought are great, look for them in the freezer section) 2/3 cup unsalted butter 2/3 cup all purpose flour 2 chicken breasts or 4 chicken thighs, cubed ½ white onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 ribs celery, diced 1 cup sweet potato, peeled and diced 1 Tbs fresh sage, chopped ½ Tbs fresh thyme, chopped 2 tsp Kosher salt 2 tsp black pepper ½ cup double cream Brie, diced, rind can be left on 3 cups (720 mL) reduced sodium chicken stock, homemade or purchased 1 Egg

1. Preheat oven to 375º F. Prepare all ingredients and vegetables.

2. Take the puff pastry sheets out of the freezer and lay them flat on the counter to thaw. Use the top of the bowl that you are using to cook the pot pies in as a stencil for the size of the puff pastry you wish to cut out. Once cut out, set aside. 3. In a medium pot, heat he butter over medium high heat. Cook the chicken breasts or thighs in the butter on all sides to brown a little, then remove and set aside on a plate. 4. In the same butter, add the onion, garlic and celery and sauté for 2-3

minutes. Sprinkle the flour into the mixture, and incorporate well until a paste is formed. This is called a roux, and will act as the thickener for your filling. Slowly add in the chicken stock while continuously stirring. Mix well until smooth.

5. Add chicken back in, followed by the sweet potato. Simmer over low heat for 15 minutes, stirring every few minutes until potatoes are tender. If filling is too thick, add a splash of water.

6. Season with salt, pepper and fresh herbs, then add the Brie and remove from heat.

7. Divide the mixture into the oven-

safe bowls. Fill them almost to the top.

8. Whisk the egg and run the egg wash around the top of the bowl to seal the puff pastry to the top.

9. Lay the pastry over top of the

bowl, and press the sides down. Brush remaining egg wash over the top of the pastry to create a shiny finish.

10. Poke a few small holes through

the pastry, then place the pies on a baking sheet, and cook in the oven for 12-15 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown. Laura Lushington is a graduate of Mount Royal University’s Journalism program. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram @LauraLushington 29

Wayfarer:

Following The Snowbirds To The Valley Of The Sun by FRED MALLEY CCC

We all know someone who joins the annual exodus of snowbirds as they migrate to the Valley of the Sun; but any age will find plenty to do and experience in this sunny destination south of our snowy borders. This valley comprises Phoenix, Scottsdale, Mesa, Buckeye, Glendale and many other suburbs. The locals here happily welcome the influx and the economic spinoffs coming from their northern neighbours. Many Canadians own property in the region, which can range from trailers or condos to houses, some of which are palatial.

You never know who you will bump into at the many festivals and events that can keep us winter-weary Calgarians active and engaged. The valley region has a decidedly western culture, whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re saddled up at the local saloon, Arabian Horse Show or getting dusty at Greasewood Flat, chowing down on a big, messy burger. This destination south-of-the border abounds with excellent dining choices and innovative chefs, whether at a small local gem or five star resort. To fully enjoy this sunny and sandy area of Arizona, a vehicle is a must. The road systems are superb and generally easy to navigate, though GPS can

be a man’s best friend in a foreign land. Greasewood Flat should be an early destination to get a full sensory indoctrination into the old west style. This outdoor venue comes with barnyard and donkeys and the burgers are award winning – try the green chilli bacon version. Pinnacle Peak Brewery is just down the road and if you wear a tie, it will be cut and nailed to the ceiling to join the million plus collection. A full day drive is the spectacular Apache Trail. Narrow dirt roads with some stretches clinging to vertical 300

mile drop-offs, means that the driver must pay attention...to say the least. Start at the base of the Superstition Mountains and look for the Lost Dutchman Mine. You’ll be craning your neck not to miss the vistas, including fluorescent green lichen covered rock faces and a saguaro forest. Take a picnic lunch or stop at Tortilla Flat or the Apache Lake Marina to refuel your appetites in picturesque surroundings. Sedona, famous for its red rock and vortexes is another great day trip. It

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reminds you of Banff in a sense, with its many art galleries and boutiques. Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village is home to El Rincon, a home-style Mexican restaurant with house salsa and tortilla chips comped while you decide on a generously portioned, flavourful meal. Oak Creek Brewery and Grill serves up an eclectic cuisine; the Grilled Cajun Mahi Spinach & Mango Salad with Prickly Pear dressing is excellent. Order the Seven Dwarfs beer tasting; three gold and two silver medal winners

Needless to say, you won’t miss the snow one bit

plus. The town has many casual and fine dining options to choose from. Stop at Rock Springs Café, Saloon & General Store on the way back to Phoenix for some of the best homemade pies anywhere.

This destination south-ofthe border abounds with excellent dining choices and innovative chefs Explore and shop Westgate Entertainment District for a Coyotes game or football. Pre-game brings the area alive with lots of busy restaurants and bars, not to mention tailgating, which we don’t see too often in Canada. Try the Yardhouse, featuring over 125 beers on tap and good grub to match.

Queen Creek Olive Mill is a great day and lunch destination. This working olive grove is home to the most modern milling equipment in America. You can catch the last of the harvest and processing of their extra virgin oil into early December. The 16-varietal groves are in full bloom in mid-April with a very busy restaurant year-round, adjacent to the boutique store (try the chocolate infused olive oil). There is Superstition Coffee Roasterie on site. Queen Creek also operates a store in Kierland Commons in Scottsdale. Kierland features many outstanding restaurants. Any age will find plenty to do and experience in this sunny destination south of our snowy border Try Zinc for flavourful bistro fare, or Tommy Bahama. There are lots of other excellent choices from high-end steak and seafood to P.F Chang’s and full, local organic at True Food Kitchen in Scottsdale Quarter across the street. Old Scottsdale features high-end galleries, jewellery, knickknack stores, restaurants and nightclubs. Heritage site, Rusty Spur Saloon features excellent musicians who clamour to play here for just the tips. Hit the energetic 32

R & R Bar on Sunday morning for Happy Hour mimosas. Grimaldi’s is one of the best pizza spots in the USA, with coal-fired ovens. Malee’s on Main is a good Thai restaurant, but not nearly what we enjoy in Calgary. Later, hit A288 for cocktails or Mission for Latin. The nightclubs open late with great venues like The Mint, Epiq, Cake and the over-the-top Maya.

Kona Grill in Fashion Square presents an array of excellent sushi, sashimi and rolls. Two Jade Palace locations in Scottsdale provide excellent, light and fresh Chinese food with outstanding service. Fountain Hills presents many dining options, from Flapjacks for puffy, baked pancakes, Soffrita’s for home spun Mexican, Phil’s for the diner experience, Vu Bistro for casual with a view or Alchemy at Copperwynd for fine dining and a spectacular vista. Bread Brothers in Mesa craft first-rate breads – try the Sun Dried Tomato Basil with Feta. What’s a visit to the states without a little gambling? If you like taking some odds with the chips, there are several casinos in the valley area, including the Native American-operated Fort McDowell. Its restaurant, Ahnala, will have you returning after playing their two award winning golf courses. Don’t forget to make a run to Cave Creek for a fried chicken lunch at the Horny Toad or hit the biker bar next door. This desert in bloom is a truly sight to behold. Needless to say, you won’t miss the snow one bit.

Fred Malley is President of the Calgary Academy of Chefs and Cooks and author of On Cooking, a textbook of Culinary Fundamentals.

CREATIVITY EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENT SIDES OF CHEF DUNCAN LY, GOLD MEDALIST, AWARD WINNING CHEF

HOTEL ARTS | KENSINGTON RIVERSIDE INN

The Spirits and Beer Results of the 2014 Alberta Beverage Awards You may have read the results of the wine portion of the Alberta Beverage Awards last month in Culinaire Magazine or you may have even seen them online, and we are happy to report that just like the wine, the results of the spirits and beer portion of the competition are pleasing to the palate. Growth over last year was small for the beer and spirits entries, but the quality and range of entries was very exciting. Plenty of Canadian-made beers made the grade, while for spirits, more premium entries were judged by our panels of experts. For the beers, we have to thank Kirk Bodnar, David Nuttall, and John Papavacilopoulos - some of the top beer experts and experienced beer judges in the province, while on the spirits side we thank Chuck Elves, Bryan Childs, Rebecca Davis, and Andrew Ferguson. In each section you will find a “Best in Class” which is the top performer in the category as well as Judges Selections, which are the runners up. In many cases, the field was very narrow with scores only separated by small fractions of

Andrew Ferguson 34 34

points. All entries were judged blind and neat - no mixers here. Our panel of beer judges didn’t find this a problem, but in regards to our spirits judges, which included a number of mixologists, they may have been at a disadvantage, but strived to find the best balanced spirits and ones that not only taste well neat, but also in a mixed drink. I would strongly recommend any of these winners to any discerning palate. Special thanks again to the Import Vintners & Spirits Association; Liquor Connect; Len Steinberg; our judges; our volunteer stewards, Mairie, Pat, Brian, Toria, Pierce and Patrick; and the Hotel Blackfoot and their staff - we couldn’t have done it without them.

Tom Firth, Competition Director

John Papavacilopoulos

Kirk Bodnar

Chuck Elves

Bryan Childs

Judges: John Papavacilopoulos Owner, Oak & Vine Wine and Spirits Kirk Bodnar Cicerone and BJCP Beer Judge David Nuttall Beer Consultant and BJCP Beer Judge Andrew Ferguson Scotch Expert, Kensington Wine Market Chuck Elves Co-Owner, Three Boars, Edmonton Bryan Childs Mixologist, Divino, CRMR Rebecca Davis Mixologist, Cleaver Restaurant

David Nuttall

Rebecca Davis

Ales Our Alberta Beverage Awards Ales category had many local entries, from lighter styles American pale ales to rich Cascadian dark ales and almost everything in-between. Ales try to balance both the malt and the hops to give a distinct flavour; one that the Brew Master hopes makes a positive impression. Great ales succeed when you are able to identify specific characteristics in both the aroma and taste. Alcohol content for ales can range from 5% to 9.5% or sometimes higher depending on the style of beer. By John Papavacilopoulos.

JUDGES’ SELECTION Big Rock Brewery Scottish Style Heavy Ale Canada, 6-pack Bottles $14-16 CSPC +761156 Last Best Brewery Pony Pale Ale Canada, On-tap/Growlers

BEST IN CLASS Village Brewery Blacksmith Canada, 6-pack Bottles $14-16 CSPC +747919 Village Blacksmith (5.5% ABV) is a great example of a local beer made with local Alberta grown ingredients by a Brew Master with a specific goal in mind. With aromatic notes of coffee/ nuts as well as some herbal hints, the taste is very expressive in this Cascadian dark ale with a creamy start and a pleasant dry finish. Not to mention it looks fabulous in the glass.

India Pale Ales Albertans have a love affair with North American IPA’s which are typically more flavourful and interesting than their English counterparts. Their colour can range from very pale golden to reddish amber. The hops used are predominantly North American varieties and plentiful, with a big herbal and/or citric aroma that finishes crisp and with a bitter bite on the end. The good ones also have a balanced malty backbone. Canadian examples carried the day with two showing well from Phillips Brewery and local Last Best making the grade.

JUDGES’ SELECTION Phillips Kaleidoscope Mosaic IPA Canada, 650ml bottle $6-7 CSPC +758973 Last Best IPA Canada, On-tap/growler

BEST IN CLASS Phillips Hop Circle IPA Canada, 6-pack cans $13-14 CSPC +70979 An IPA that checks all the boxes of a great IPA. Amber colour, intense pine/citrus with some secondary floral aromas and flavours. It’s full bodied with a great mouth feel and a pronounced bitterness on the palate that finishes dry (6.5% ABV) and refreshing just begging you to take another sip.

Cider Ciders are enjoying a renaissance, and the use of that word is significant. Up until the late 19th century, cider was the most popular alcoholic drink in North America. It was not until the westward expansion of European society in the 1800s through Canada and the United States, and the conversion of the Great Plains from natural grassland to the fields of wheat, barley, rye and corn we see today, that beer took over as the drink of choice. Although cider can be made from any fruit, it is apple cider that dominates the market, with pear cider (or perry, as it is frequently known) a distant second. It is fairly simple to make; fruit is crushed to extract the juice, which is then fermented with special yeasts. The cidery will then either filter the result before bottling, put it in barrels for aging, blend it, or bottle it as is. Almost all alcoholic ciders (sometimes called hard cider) are carbonated. By David Nuttall. BEST IN CLASS Savanna Dry Cider South Africa, 4-Pack Bottles $11-12 CSPC +764538

JUDGES’ SELECTION William Premium Cider Canada 4-Pack Cans $12-14 CSPC +755297

This import from South Africa has a light golden colour and a light to medium body. It is also drier than most ciders, so it has a crisp, refreshing finish without the leftover sweetness found in many other ciders.

Fruit Beers

Fruit beer can be the most polarizing style amongst beer lovers. Some people can’t tolerate them, while others consider them their favourite kind of beer. In actuality, fruit beers have been around since the beginning of brewing. Historically, fruit (and spices and vegetables) were used as the main flavouring agent in beer when hops were too expensive or unavailable to the brewer. Any style of beer can have fruit added to it to become a fruit beer. In some cases fruit adds a certain distinctiveness to an otherwise common beer style, such as wheat ales. In other beers, the fruit may constitute the dominant flavour, with as much as 25% to 60% real fruit, puree or juice added to the base beer, such as in lambics and radlers. In a good fruit beer, the drinker should be able to identify the fruit, and there should be a balance between it and the base beer. By Dave Nuttall. BEST IN CLASS Big Rock Brewery Cherazz Canada, 650ml, $7 The winning beer is Big Rock’s Cherazz, made in the style of a Belgian Fruit Beer. This beer is bright crimson in colour with a pink head. The flavour is full of cherry/raspberry tartness that is not too sweet and still retains its refreshing beer character.

JUDGES’ SELECTION Melville’s Ginger Beer United Kingdom, 500ml Can $4, CSPC +763805 Grizzly Paw Brewery Beavertail Raspberry Ale, 650ml $7 CSPC +758596

Lagers and Pilsners These days, many beer aficionados often consider a beer to be good if it has ample complexity and intense hop or roasted malt flavour. Although I do tend to very much appreciate big and complex flavours, there is something to be said about subtlety - and this is where lagers and pilsners fit in nicely. Some lagers absolutely do have big, complex flavours (think of German Bocks or smoky Rauchbiers) though the beers most commonly associated with the term lager in these parts tend to be lighter and paler beers with much more subtle characteristics of flavour. Lagers and pilsners (darker and stronger versions notwithstanding) are the pure essence of subtlety, and a well-made example can be something of beauty, just as much as a big hop bomb or barrel aged roasty monster. The thing is, most pale lagers and pilsners don’t have any big flavours to hide behind. It could even be said that a brewery or brewer should be judged by the quality of their lighter beers. By Kirk Bodnar. JUDGES’ SELECTION Last Best Brewing Dirty Bird Black Lager Canada, On-tap/growlers

BEST IN CLASS Wild Rose Brewery Electric Avenue Canada, 6-Pack Bottles $15-16 CSPC +766771

Innis & Gunn Lager United Kingdom, 500ml Can $3-4, CSPC +763623

Wild Rose has successfully shown their brewing prowess with the creation of Electric Avenue. The beer has a nice light biscuit character with a pleasant noble hop undertone that finishes crisp and dry. Sometimes less is truly more.

Wit and Wheat

Wit Beers are a Belgian Style wheat ale that has a very pale and cloudy appearance because it’s unfiltered and the high level of wheat, and sometimes oats, that’s used in making these beers. Generally Wit beers are flavoured with coriander, orange peel and other spices or herbs for a distinct flavour. The crispness and slight twang comes from the wheat and the lively level of carbonation. This is one style that many brewers in Canada have taken a liking to and have done a good job of staying true to style. Sometimes served with a slice or twist of citrus, they are very refreshing and can be easily paired with food. By John Papavacilopoulos.

JUDGES’ SELECTION Village Brewery Wit Canada, On-tap/Growlers Big Sky Brewing Trout Slayer Wheat Ale United States, 6-pack Bottles $14-16 CSPC +764319

BEST IN CLASS Stanley Park Wit Canada, 6-pack bottles $14-16 CSPC +684084 Stanley Park Wit is the perfect summer beer. It has a hazy, straw-yellow colour with a classic sweet, earthy wit aroma. The carbonation is moderate and the light body makes for a smooth drink. A well-crafted beer that follows through from first sniff to last sip.

Hybrids and Others In the regular beer world there are lagers and ales. However, down in their secret laboratories, mad brewers are also making mutant beers called hybrids. While lagers are typically bottom fermented with lager yeasts at cool temperatures, and ales top fermented with ale yeast at warmer temperatures, hybrids flaunt convention by using lager yeasts at warm temperatures or fermenting with ale yeasts at cooler temperatures. There are not a lot of beer styles developed out of this seeming disregard for conventional brewing, however worth mentioning are Kolsch, cream ales, blonde ales, and German altbier. Kolsch is originally a German beer, often mistaken for a lager, but it is made with ale yeast. In Germany, it can only be made in Cologne and is protected by the Kolsch Konvention. It was only this year that a true version arrived in Alberta. However, North American breweries (not bound by konvention) have made kolsch for decades, and several are available here. Cream and blonde ales are North American breweriesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ale version of the classic light American lager. Historically, many ale-producing breweries developed a lighter beer by cold fermenting it with lager yeast. This resulted in a beer which is more flavourful than a light lager, but without the body of a true ale. It is the fastest growing segment of craft beer styles in North America. By David Nuttall. BEST IN CLASS Svyturys Baltijos Lithuania, 500ml Bottle $4 CSPC +764623

JUDGESâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; SELECTION Village Brewery Blonde Canada, On-Tap/Growler CSPC +747917

Phillips Brewing Electric Unicorn White IPA Canada, 650ml $7, CSPC +22319

Porters and Stouts If Lagers and Pilsners are the ultimate expression of subtlety and simplicity, Porters and Stouts are the polar opposite. They are the dark beauties of the beer world. The best examples express complex characteristics and flavours such as chocolate, coffee, caramel, vanilla, licorice, oak, bourbon, and even smoke. They are often characterized by their dark colour, which comes from the addition of dark roasted malts. It is this dark malt that is key to these styles, giving them their colour as well as much of the flavour. Stouts tend to be slightly bolder than Porters – though the true differentiation comes from the addition of unmalted roast barley in Stouts, which creates somewhat of a more “raw”, roasted element as well as the distinctive darker, tan head. By Kirk Bodnar. JUDGES’ SELECTION Phillips Brewing Longboat Chocolate Porter Canada, 650ml bottle $6-7, CSPC +172031 Big Rock Brewery Oatmeal Raisin Stout Canada, Included in Variety Pack

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Brandy Brandy is a slightly ambiguous name whose vinous origins can be somewhat misleading. Its most famous and well-known forms are found in Cognac and Armagnac - both French spirits. However brandy can be made from a wide variety of fruits, Löhrpflümli brandy, poire brandy, kirsch brandy, apricot and my favourite - apple (especially from the famous Normandy region) in Calvados. Of other interest, and great character, are those brandies technically known as pomace brandies, made out of the residue of winemaking. Such a brandy is called marc in France, grappa in Italy, and bagaceira in Portugal. Trester-schnapps is the German, aguardiente de orujo is the Spanish equivalent and South Americans, particularly Peruvians refer to it as pisco. Such brandies are distinctive, often noble, and can be much underrated. Besides one Serbian plum brandy that I found very alluring, almost all the entries this year were either cognac or armagnac, and although they weren’t the most complex examples, they were invariably smooth, fruity, rich and bulbous. If you are compelled to find a beverage behind an unfamiliar bar you can almost always trust brandy. By Bryan Childs. BEST IN CLASS Comte de Lauvia XO Imperial 12 Year Armagnac France $55 CSPC +85357

JUDGES’ SELECTION Rémy Martin XO Cognac France $220-240 CSPC +583468

A top performer at the 2013 Alberta Beverage Awards as well as this year’s competition, this rich and lush Armagnac is a steal, and might just be your new favourite. Stara Sokolova Plum Brandy Serbia $30-35, CSPC +745497

Rémy Martin 1738 Cognac $72-78, CSPC +722756

Flavoured Vodka Flavoured vodka is a category that is still growing by leaps and bounds, and had one of the largest entries into the spirits component of the Alberta Beverage Awards. While there is still every imaginable flavour available, there seems to be a slight shift away from the synthetics - less whipped cinnamon, jelly belly, and tanning lotion notes, while the organic flavours seem to be more enticing, tending to be more aromatic and not as sweet, even “less artificial” with more craftsmanship creating a freshly infused taste. Much like their “flavourless cousins” better ingredients are being used in flavoured vodka. High water quality, time in barrel, more research time in labs and a premium base of potato, hemp, or fruit give the mouth feel a pleasing purity. By Bryan Childs. JUDGES’ SELECTION Ciroc Peach France $50 CSPC +757798

BEST IN CLASS Ciroc Coconut France $50 CSPC +763376

Three Olives Elvis Presley Coconut Water United Kingdom $30 CSPC +764146 Hanger 1 Buddha’s Hand Citron United States $52 CSPC +756680

Flavoured Whisky Flavoured whiskies have been growing in recent years and whisky producers are getting into the action with some pretty interesting manipulations. Sweet flavours such as clove, ginger, orange, cinnamon and hot pepper fruits balance rye’s strong and somewhat spicy bitterness. Complex floral notes can harmonize tannins and complement rye’s natural flavours with editions of richly perfumed dark chocolate and the flickering waxiness of blackberries. The trick with these flavoured whiskies is to complement and not overpower the natural nuance of the rye, creating the right amount of tension for a distinctive cocktail base. By Bryan Childs.

JUDGES’ SELECTION Spicebox Cinnamon Whisky Canada $30 CSPC +754137

BEST IN CLASS Spicebox Pumpkin Spiced Whisky Canada $30 CSPC +754138

Gin & Vodka Gin Gin has been a popular category in recent years. It seems like every part of the world has its own version. Gin aficionados behind the bar and in front of it already know how great gin can be and already love it, so we figured it would be best to simply describe the top bottles here, and let you pick and choose the ones you’d like to try. By Rebecca Davis .

BEST IN CLASS (GIN) Dillon’s Unfiltered Gin 22 Canada $41 CSPC +760559

BEST IN CLASS (VODKA) Banff Ice Vodka Canada $25 CSPC +350397

JUDGES’ SELECTION (GIN) Tanqueray Rangpur United Kingdom $33 CSPC +760609

I pleasantly discovered that the winning gin was Canadian! The base of 100% grapes, from the Niagara region of Ontario, gives the spirit an incredible lush mouth feel. An abundance of local botanicals and small batch practices ensures a control over ingredients, and it shows. With a light and fruity nose, inviting aromatics, and a slightly sweet palate. Long, lush finish. Beautiful stirred with a twist of lemon.

No one was more surprised than when I found out that the number one vodka went to Banff Ice. I was also pleasantly surprised to discover a light nose with slight citrus aromatics. On the palate there was a medium mouth feel, with excellent earthy notes and a long finish. Rebecca Davis

UK born Tanqueray has been a producer of standard London Dry gin since 1830. The recipe has been a closely guarded secret, but with the addition of Tanqueray Rangpur, the house has created an exotic refreshing gin. Rangpur is a hybrid of lemon and mandarin. This extremely citrus gin has a delicate herbaceous layer and a gentle soft finish. Fresh tropical notes on the palate. Hayman’s Sloe Gin United Kingdom $33 CSPC +755524 Probably the most iconic liqueur is Sloe Gin. The Sloe berry is quite bitter, but when sweetener is added it becomes a floral, berry treat. A traditional English gin, Hayman’s has a rich ruby hue with bitter sweet red berries on the nose with a long, complex finish. Try it in a traditional Sloe gin fizz.

(continued) Vodka A tough category to be sure, Vodkas are often enjoyed simply because they “don’t” have much flavour, though this is far from the truth - good vodka is smooth, aromatic, and can have subtlety and class. This was a category that was almost up for grabs right from the start, as some good and well-known brands fell by the wayside and other - almost underdogs - rose up to earn the top spots. Canada’s Banff Ice took the Best In Class, but it was also great to see a “celebrity brand” from Dennis Rodman here, proving that what’s in that bottle is more than just a name. By Tom Firth. JUDGES’ SELECTION (VODKA) Dennis Rodman: The original BADASS Vodka United States $40 CSPC +766129 It seems like every celebrity, athlete and musician is getting their hands into the spirits industry. This vodka however, hits the mark. Full-bodied, lush and beautiful minerality. Seems like Mr. Rodman really does know his vodka. Luksusowa Potato Vodka Poland $30 CSPC +253302 Distilled in Poland since 1928, stated as “Vodka for Men”, this 100% potato base vodka also appeals to the ladies. Aromatic & floral, with its oily body and long beautiful finish, it would be easy to sip this straight. Classic oyster food pairing.

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Infused Spirits, Liqueurs, and Cream Based Liqueurs A tricky category to judge, as most liqueurs are not meant to be consumed solo, but rather as a complement to the likes of coffee or cocktails. The key here is to search for those liqueurs whose prominent flavour is readily apparent and true to life. They should be sweet, but not cloying, and coat the mouth with a lingering finish that expands on the initial flavours. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d love to see more range in the selection next year, but as a panel, we had plenty of discussion over these flights. By Chuck Elves. BEST IN CLASS Wild Turkey American Honey Liqueur United States $30-35 CSPC +760223

BEST IN CLASS Sortilege Maple Cream Canada $30-34 CSPC +755027

BEST IN CLASS Nonino Amaro Quinessentia Italy $46 CSPC +707179

Managing to balance the sweet and floral notes of honey with the robust sweetness of bourbon is no easy task. Here the honey adds depth and nothing overpowers the palate.

Canadian whisky, maple syrup and cream come together in harmony to form this liqueur, which is equally at home on the rocks as it would be in coffee. It coats the mouth without being cloying and the maple adds a distinct nuttiness through the palate and finish.

Using grappa as a base and infused with orange and spice, Nonino is similar to other Italian bitters and yet less syrupy and boasting enough sweetness to balance the bitter. Great on its own or as an ingredient.

(continued) JUDGES’ SELECTION Cabot Trail Maple Cream Liqueur Canada $30-34 CSPC +745168

Profumi della Costiera Limoncello Italy $30-35 CSPC +740112

Frangelico Italy $27-28 CSPC +735251

Kummel Extra de Combier France $50-53 CSPC +760552

The King’s Ginger Netherlands $40-45 CSPC +748155

Berta l’Amaretto di Mombaruzzo Selezione Italy $67 CSPC +745517

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Rum As a spirit, rum has almost no legislated regulation placed upon it. This is both a blessing and a curse as it provides producers with a broad canvas that can lead to expressions ranging from brilliant to banal. What we look for from them is a final product that successfully marries sweet sugar notes with the more complex flavours from aging, producing a balanced nectar. High performers included rums from the across the map of rum production, in a range of styles. By Chuck Elves. BEST IN CLASS Ron Millonario 15 yr Solera Reserve Peru Around $50 CSPC +746486

JUDGES’ SELECTION Zaya Gran Reserva Rum Trinidad and Tobago $70-$75 CSPC +710296

An excellent example of the solera method, this rum displays a ton of oak, adding spice and complexity to the rich sugar backbone. Molasses, anise, and orange peel linger through the finish.

Newfoundland Screech Honey Rum Canada $27-30 CSPC+760258 Dictator 20 Year Old Rum Columbia $68-75 CSPC +741044

Tequila Tequila has already come a long way from its history as a “rough and ready” sort of drink. These days tequila is enjoying a resurgence brought about by high quality offerings with better ingredients, techniques, and yes - aged examples. This year, we saw fewer overall offerings in the tequila category, but at the same time we saw significant growth in the older examples such as resposado. Reposado sees a minimum of two months aging, but less than a year in barrels, making them perfect sipping tequilas or a smoother ingredient in cocktails. By Tom Firth, notes by Rebecca Davis. BEST IN CLASS Grand Mayan Ultra Aged Mexico $100-110 CSPC +756757 This tequila is truly extraordinary. With its dark mahogany hue, lush, oily mouth feel, it is an exceptional product. The nose demonstrates rich almond and candied apricots, with hints of bitter orange peel. Balanced and complex.

JUDGES’ SELECTION 1800 Reposado Mexico, $44 CSPC +732125 Launched in 1975 as a sipping tequila, this gorgeous example of reposado tequila is perfect neat and paired with a cigar. Light straw in colour and though not overly aromatic, it does smell like the ocean: fresh and salty. The mouth feel is slightly thick and waxy with a dry finish. Hints of pepper, cinnamon on the palate. Aha Toro Reposado Mexico, $52-57 CSPC +586644 This is a tequila drinker’s tequila. Handcrafted by Mexican artisans, this tequila is semi-clear, the nose unveils notes of vanilla & oak. In the mouth, floral agave, herbs and lemon dominate. Finished with a sweet roasted agave flavour. Perfect with cigars. My favourite!

Scotch Whisky Single malt Scotch is a huge category in Alberta, more than 600 different ones will be sold in Alberta this year. We had some strong entrants, but it would have been great to see a bigger field helping to cover the range available on our shelves in Alberta. The Glengoyne 21 Year stole the show this year, and was the runaway favourite. A sherried highland whisky, whose distillery straddles the border between the Highland and Lowlands, Glengoyne is a brand on the rise in Alberta. Despite the single malts getting most of the attention, blended scotches are still providing value and are still exciting to drink. The 21 Year shows lots of candied fruit, leather, chocolate and some more delicate tropical notes. By Andrew Ferguson. BEST IN CLASS Glengoyne 21 Year Old Single Malt Whisky Scotland $185-200 CSPC +718232

BEST IN CLASS Poplar Grove

OUR CHARDONNAY, PINOT GRIS, CABERNET FRANC, & MERLOT HAVE BEEN CHOSEN AS TOP PERFORMERS AT THE

ALBERTA BEVERAGE

AWARDS 2014

JUDGESâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; SELECTION Ledaig 10 Year Old Single Malt Whisky Scotland $68-70 CSPC +752144 Tobermory 10 Year Old Single Malt Whisky Scotland $68-70 CSPC +742464 Islay Mist Peated Reserve Blended Scotch Whisky $38-42 CSPC +758258 Glenfarclas 15 Year Old Single Malt Whisky $80-85 CSPC +380717

AWARD WINNERS

TO YOUR DOOR Visit www.poplargrove.ca to order online

Bourbon/American Whiskey Woodford Reserve Bourbon was the big winner in a category that included Bourbons, Tennessee Whiskey and an American single malt. Tennessee whiskey is very similar to Bourbon, in that the mash is usually at least 50% corn, and it is matured in new oak barrels. The major difference between the two is that Tennessee whiskies are filtered through sugar maple charcoal before bottling. I found the Woodford floral and spicy with lots of wood and earthy grains. The corn notes really came through on the finish. Runner up was the George Dickel No.12 - a Tennessee whiskey. It showed some spicy rye notes, sweet corn and a little dill. By Andrew Ferguson.

BEST IN CLASS Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon United States $47 CSPC+480624

JUDGESâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; SELECTION George Dickel No. 12 Tennessee Whisky United States $37 CSPC +759936

Rye and Canadian Whisky A bit of a confusing category as Rye whisk(e)y in Canada and the US are two different things. In the US a straight rye whisky must contain at least 51% rye grain in the mashbill. In Canada, rye is a colloquial term used to describe Canadian Whisky. Some Canadian whiskies are mostly, or fully produced from rye grains, but the term rye can be applied to a Canadian whisky even if there is no rye in the mashbill whatsoever. The two runners up in the category were American ryes and the category winner Tin Cup is technically a Bourbon with a high rye content. The votes were pretty close for top 3 with the Dickel and Templeton Rye close second and thirds. All of them were delicious. By Andrew Ferguson. BEST IN CLASS Tin Cup Whisky United States $50 CSPC +765247

JUDGESâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; SELECTION George Dickel Rye United States $38 CSPC +759935 Templeton Rye United States $50-52 CSPC +762470

Tel: 403.275.3300 www.italianstore.ca

5140 Skyline Way NE

Calgary, AB T2E 6V1

Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Kim Spence was always drawn to the restaurant industry. At thirteen years old, he had a job peeling 50 lbs bags of potatoes, for $4 a bag - and loved every minute of it. A dishwasher job, and doing the prep work that no one else wanted to do, followed while he was still in school. He’d moved to Calgary in 1991, and on a visit back to Ontario, he remembers his restaurant chums chatting about ‘what are you going to do when you’re finished school?’ Most didn’t know what they wanted to do with their lives. “I was terrified,” he says, “because I thought university was supposed to tell you that, and I didn’t realise that you should probably pick a vocation before you started”. Coming back to Calgary, Spence was hired by Earls, where he started as a busboy and left a general manager, working through every position, including culinary positions, en route. His passion for food turned into a passion for wine on seeing how people drank wine in other parts of the world. “They didn’t separate food and wine, but 50

saw it as part of the meal,” he explains, “whereas in Canada we sometimes see it as two very different things.” He left Earl’s with an appreciation of wine, having worked very hard on the wine program, and feeling a sense of ownership over it. Joining Moxie’s, Spence eventually became Regional Manager for the Shark Club locations and co-authoring Chop Steakhouse, but putting himself through formal wine education, he most enjoyed creating the beverage program from scratch. “My role today as National Beverage Director didn’t exist,” he says, “I had no full-time predecessor and it was a brave new world of all the limitless possibilities of where this job could go. I couldn’t have done it if I hadn’t walked a mile in the shoes of bar, service and general managers, because running restaurants is really hard. It’s tough work and you have to love it.”

And what bottle does Spence have hidden away? “All the great wines that I’ve ever enjoyed are connected to a time and a place,” he says. “I was in Chile, and it was the coldest November, and everybody was wet and miserable. J. Bouchon made us a home-cooked rustic meal of rabbit that they’d caught in the vineyard that day and braised in the wine, and it was magical with their ‘Mingre’. This full-of-flavour food was so sublimely simple; it was perfect.” Someone from B.C. had brought wine with them, so the Canadians and Chileans all shared their wines. “It was one of my most memorable meals,” Spence remembers, “when I came back, I bought a case of the wine to keep that memory alive. I’ve only got one bottle left and I’m afraid when it’s gone that my memory of that experience is going to fade too.” So when will Spence open the bottle? “When we were there, we had the very first vintage that was over 10 years old and drinking beautifully, so I think I’ve got a few years to go,” he says. “Our executive chef lives close by, and we have amazing dinners where I do the wine and he does the food, so I’m quite sure its days are numbered though.”

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