Culinaire #3:7(december 2014

CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 3 NO.7 :: DECEMBER 2014

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE:

A TREAT FOR YOUR TASTEBUDS

SPARKLING COCKTAILS

All Things Sweet | Spirits of Mexico | Pastries and Cakes

Bring the warmth of Bench 1775 to your next gathering with our lineup of elegant and distinctive wines.

WINERY & TASTING ROOM: 1775 Naramata Road,Penticton,BC V2A 8T8 www.BENCH1175.com

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VOLUME 3 / ISSUE #7 DECEMBER 2014

Features 20

Dressing The Best Uncovering two of Canada’s premier culinary-focused apparel companies

by Dan Clapson and Diana Ng

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Holiday Gift Guide Christmas gift ideas for gourmands, the food obsessed, and beverage lovers

by Laura Lushington, Dan Clapson and Linda Garson

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The Perfect Beer Glass Experience the true character of beer in all its glory with the right glassware

by Kirk Bodnar

Departments 12

Red Velvet Cake Who snuck the vegetables in?

by Natalie Findlay

38 The Case For Wine Wines for the holiday season

by Tom Firth

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Swirl Cakes and Cupcakes Defying gravity one cake at a time

by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

22 Fruitcake The love/hate dessert of the holidays

by Angelique Picanco 28 For the Sweet Tooth Wines to savour after your meal

by Tom Firth 30 Warm Up Winter… …with hot chocolate

by Natalie Findlay

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Salutes and Shout Outs

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Event Previews

40 Is Bigger Better?

Large format wines

by Adrian Bryksa

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Book Review

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Ask Culinaire

42 That Sparkle In Your Eye...

What’s your bubble?

by Erika Tocco

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Chefs’ Tips — and Tricks!

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Soup Kitchen

44 The Champagne Cocktail Celebrating in style

by Rebecca Davis

24 8 Ways to Spice Up Oatmeal

32 Step-By-Step

Gingerbread House

46 Mexico Is More than

Just Tequila Getting to know mescal and sotol

by David Nuttall 50 Open That Bottle James Buchanan of

Buchanans Chophouse

by Linda Garson

Front cover photography by Ingrid Kuenzel, with thanks to Karine Moulin of Hotel Arts for creating everyone’s favourite fruitcake!

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Letter From The Editor days. We’re grateful for your acceptance and approval.

2014 saw us winning our first award, and one that felt like an Oscar, as it was the Industry Recognition Award for the Western Region of the Canadian Culinary Federation, marking only our second birthday!

Another year is drawing to a close, and for me it’s a time to reflect on the last twelve months, and how far we’ve come.

It’s a year since we launched our new look as well as our new website, and I’m still thrilled at the compliments and comments I hear almost every day on how much better we’re looking these

We launched our Elite Chef Series of dinners, which we’re delighted to report have been very well received. We’ve loved our ‘chefs’ last meals’, giving them completely free rein to create their most favourite dishes for us.

Our second Alberta Beverage Awards was very successful, with an increase in entries of over 30 percent from last year. The majority were wine, and next year we’re hoping to see even more beer and spirits too join the ranks of Alberta’s best beverages.

What’s in the air for 2015? Well it’s certainly an exciting time to be a foodie in our city! We’re thoroughly spoiled for choice with all the new restaurant openings, and happy that our old favourites are still going strong.

We know of at least another ten new eateries about to launch onto our culinary scene, so we certainly won’t run out of stories to tell you. Next year will see our new and exciting events, as well as our third Alberta Beverage Awards.

I can’t sign off without thanking everyone involved in Culinaire - our advertisers, our contributors and photographers, our supporters and our readers. I hope it’s a very happy holiday time for all, and look forward to hearing from you in 2015.

Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

To find a retailer visit liquorconnect.com/312686

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CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Consulting Publisher/ Keiron Gallagher Advertising: 403-975-7177 keirongallagher@gmail.com Advertising: Ian Bunting ian@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Digital Media: Mallory Frayn web@culinairemagazine.ca Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Kirk Bodnar Adrian Bryksa Elizabeth Chorney Booth Rebecca Davis Natalie Findlay Mallory Frayn Renee Kohlman Ingrid Kuenzel Laura Lushington Karen Miller Diana Ng David Nuttall Erika Tocco

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Natalie Findlay

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. Her food aspirations started at an early age, baking desserts for her family and friends as soon as she could use a mixer.

Natalie’s love of food resulted in her graduating from The Cordon Bleu’s Pastry Program. Over the past 10 years, Natalie has been a pastry chef and cook in hotels and restaurants while managing her own business creating custom-made special occasion cakes.

< Adrian Bryksa

Always relevant and never compromising, Adrian’s poignant observations and astute questions strive to answer the query “What makes life taste good?” He is the voice behind www.yycwine.com and has freelanced for Wine Spectator (New York) and Good Bottle of Wine (London, England). He has an affinity for German cars, Italian suits and shoes, is married to the love of his life and has three beautiful children.

Follow him on Twitter @yycwine

< Ingrid Kuenzel

At three years, Ingrid moved from Germany to Calgary. Hailing from architectural and design roots, she has toured many European historical sites, vineyards and breweries with a camera in one hand and most often a coffee, wine or beer in the other. In addition to a twentyyear real estate financing career, she works as a freelance photographer specializing in great food and drink and the people that make it. You’ll find her at ikuefoto.com and @ingridkue.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine. ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

Salutes …

Congratulations to Thai Sa-On… ...who are celebrating 25 years of serving fine Thai food in Calgary. And that’s not all – owner Sam Chanhao’s

wine list is unequalled in any Asian restaurant in our city, so take his advice and sip on some of the best wines at extremely reasonable prices, passionately paired to your dishes.

And High 5 to President’s Choice who have removed all artificial flavours and colours from their full range of more than 4,000 PC products. Wow, way to go!

and Shout Outs …

Possibly the most eagerly anticipated restaurant of 2014 has opened its doors – the most beautifully refurbished National Hotel in Inglewood (hats off to designer Sarah Ward!) has resulted in The Nash, Michael Noble’s new eatery. Between Chef Noble and Chef Matt Batey (of Mission Hill’s Terrace Restaurant) expectations are high, and you will be well satisfied.

Choose from the daily-changing rotisserie and risottos, breads with house-made butter, and Ocean Wise seafood, although you might be tempted by the free-range Elk ‘Osso Buco’ or the 32 oz aged double rib eye…

Each of Lauren Mote’s cocktails comes with a story of the building’s or Calgary’s heritage, and local hops are

gainfully employed in the syrups and ice cream! And we can’t leave out the late-opening Off-Cut Bar, with it’s own menu of regularly changing sharing plates. See you there!

Another stunning refurbishment has to be seen at Barcelona Tavern. In under two months, the old Belgo on 8th Avenue SW has been transformed into an arty bright space, featuring local artists’ Mark Eadie’s huge pewter bull above the bar, and Jemus’ graffiti wall, along with handmade light fixtures and reclaimed wood fittings.

There’s a gin and tonic program (Fever Tree tonic!), 3 sangrias and they’re the 1st in western Canada to have Estrella Damm beer on tap, as well as chefmade cocktails.

Win a bottle of Drambuie 15!

Drambuie, from the Gaelic “An drambuidheach” or “the drink that satisfies”, started out in 1745 as a secret elixir made specially for Bonnie Prince Charlie.

The famously secret recipe combines aged Scotch whisky, heather honey and spices – and now, available only here in Alberta, is the new Drambuie 15, made with selected 15-year-old Speyside Malts.

For your chance to win this bottle just go to culinairemagazine.ca and tell us your Scottish story.

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Maybe you have visited Scotland and have a story to tell us, or maybe you have a story about something Scottish that will make us laugh - or cry!

We want to hear it, and you could win this bottle of Drambuie 15, just for sharing your story!

We can’t wait to hear from you...

Fratello coffee is served for weekday breakfasts from 7:00am as well as in togo cups, and lunches and dinners offer 23 good-sized tapas including housesmoked chorizo and grated duck egg on your patatas bravas, as well as Chef Andrew Gass’ signature mains and sides if you’re not the sharing type. A win for Calgary!

Starbelly

And finally, long-awaited Starbelly has opened its doors in Seton with Executive Chef Trevor Ross’ gourmet casual cuisine, focusing heavily on classic techniques combined with creative flavour profiles and twisting them up a notch. An open concept ‘island kitchen’ brings you closer to your food and to the 6’ wood-fired grill, responsible for the Charred Calamari with Confit Potatoes, Crispy Arctic Char with Oven-Dried Tomatoes and Crispy Bacon, and the Bourbon Honey-Glazed Baby Back Ribs, all at neighbourhood prices.

Using local suppliers and in-house made everything, try their very own ‘Starbrew’ beer, brewed with the Big Rock as part of the Copper Kettle Derby. Well worth the drive if you don’t live south!

December Events Market Collective Holiday Season

Chinese Cultural Centre 197 1 Street SW December 5-7, 12–14, 19–21 Friday: 4:00 pm–9:00 pm Saturday/Sunday: 10:00 am–6:00 pm $5 for the entire weekend (kids get in free) Look for scrumptious food, treats and beverages for the December 2014 Market Collectives. There will be fresh produce, delicious warm food and beverages, all locally prepared. marketcollective.ca

by DAVID NUTTALL

Dessert & Drinks Evening

banks are the beneficiaries from ticket sales and all funds remain at the local level. huroncarole.ca

Indulge in homemade and decadent desserts made by Rebecca, The Juniper’s in-house pastry chef, each paired with a drink to complement.

She will guide you through an evening of tasty treats and explain what makes them perfect partners with their accompanying drink. A great idea for an early Christmas present. Call to book: 1-866-551-2281 thejuniper.com

A Night of Cocktails, Murder and Dancing

The Juniper Hotel & Bistro, Banff December 11, 8:00 pm $50 per person

CPR Holiday Train

The Huron Carole

December 6-13 Starting December 6 in Medicine Hat, arriving December 12 in Calgary, leaving for Banff December 13.

The Canadian Pacific Holiday Train kicks off its 16th year and will be visiting over 150 communities across the network.

Each event features a boxcar stage, a lineup of great musical talent and a contribution to the local food bank. The CP Holiday Train is North America’s longest rolling food bank fundraiser and has raised close to $9.5 million and 3.3 million pounds of food. The concerts are free, but everyone who attends is encouraged to donate food and money for local food banks. cpr.ca Canadian Pacific Holiday Train

Murder Mystery Dinner: 7:00 pm – 10:00 pm Dancing with Calgary swing band, The Bow Djangos: 10:00 pm – 1:00pm

Selkirk Grille New Year’s Eve Dinner

December 31, 2014, 6:00 pm Heritage Park Historical Village 1900 Heritage Drive SW It’s out with the old, and in with a new dining experience. This New Year’s Eve, ring in 2015 with award winning chef Jan Hansen’s unforgettable New Year’s Eve menu. Call 403-268-8607 for reservations. heritagepark.ca

The Huron Carole

Jack Singer Concert Hall 205 8 Avenue SE December 18, 7:30 pm Tickets: $50 The Huron Carole is an enchanting musical re-enactment of the very first Huron Carole concert that took place in 1987. Alongside concert series founder Tom Jackson, guest artists include Don Amero, Shannon Gaye, Beverley Mahood and One More Girl.

Jackson’s philanthropic national projects now celebrate 27 years of fundraising history with over $200 million in cash/ in-kind services for food banks, family agencies and disaster relief. Local food

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December 31, 7:00 pm-1:00 am Fort Calgary, 750 9 Avenue SE Dinner, show and dance $150 Dance only, $50

Selkirk Grille New Year’s Eve Dinner

New Year’s Eve Family Outdoor Celebration December 31, 9 pm– 2 am Olympic Plaza, 228 8 Avenue SE

A free outdoor winter party at Olympic Plaza. Bundle up, bring your skates and enjoy hot chocolate, music and ice sculptures. Finish off the evening with a spectacular countdown to midnight.

Book Reviews

by KAREN MILLER

Pucker

By Gwendolyn Richards Whitecap books 2014

exquisite holiday gifts

I have often been asked what three items of food I would bring to a desert island. Salt is my first choice, but lemons come in a close second (the third being maple syrup).

The author feels the same way, except lemons or any citrus would be her first choice. She truly lives and breathes the magic of citrus and demonstrates how citrus is so much more than a wedge or a garnish on a plate or drink.

Although there is some general information on different types of citrus and tips on using and extracting the most from the fruit, this book is all about the recipes. Starting with drinks, they all show how citrus fruit shines, not just as an ingredient but also as a way to heighten the flavour of other elements.

There are recipes for the more common uses of citrus, salad dressings, lemon meringue pie, etc. But if you have never had lemon on a pizza then a must-try is the “Meyer Lemon Focaccia” on p. 37 or “Cheese Pizzas with Herb Lemon Dressing” on p. 90, a divine combination of tart and salt that almost tastes sweet! And as a change from jam on your toast, try the “Lemon Honey Butter” on p. 19, rich and heavenly.

The cookie recipes are reason alone to get this book, a welcome change from chocolate-based cookies.

The book is as uplifting and refreshing as the subject matter, so go ahead and yes, pucker up!

1 2 C A L G A RY L O C AT I O N S www.bernardcallebaut.com www.CococoChocolatiers.com

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.

Ask Culinaire

by TOM FIRTH

Do I need to get an event licence for my company’s office party?

Sorting out whether or not you need a special event licence for your office function can be very confusing. While most functions taking place at a licensed establishment do not require an event licence, if you are planning a function this holiday season, you might want to look into it.

The Alberta Gaming and Liquor Commission (AGLC) issues licences for events where alcohol is being served (if you have a “dry” office party you are off the hook). These licences come in two different flavours: The “non-sale” permit, which allows you or your organization to host a private event where there will be no charge for liquor or a door charge.

The “re-sale” permit is for a private event where attendees may either have to pay a “cover” charge or purchase drinks.

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Keep in mind these permits are for private events, meaning your special event shouldn’t be advertised to the general public - for that you should get in touch with the ALGC to get the right licence.

The purpose of the licence is varied, it ensures that there is someone “in charge” who is aware of some of the

Alcohol must be purchased from a liquor store - no homemade wine or beer at an event

liabilities involved with alcohol service for the function, such as minimum age to be served alcohol, and how early or how late the event can run - and hopefully someone who can ensure that patrons will be getting home safely.

Alcohol must also be purchased from a liquor store in Alberta - no homemade wine or beer at an event either, so keep that in mind. There is no requirement for getting a licence for a function at a private residence, though you can’t charge for drinks.

In general, when it comes to getting a licence, if you have to rent the space (including an office) you probably need to get one. Licences can be purchased at liquor stores, though not all carry them.

Maybe call ahead if possible, and if you have questions about whether you need a licence, contact the AGLC. See aglc.ca/licences/specialevents. asp for contact details and more information.

Tom Firth is the contributing drinks editor for Culinaire Magazine and the competition director for the Alberta Beverage Awards, follow him on twitter @cowtownwine.

Happy Holidays from the Vintage Group! Our locally-owned Calgary eateries offer award-winning cuisine and exceptional service. With everything from authentic Southern BBQ to Canadian comfort food, prime steaks, hearty sandwiches, and premium fresh seafood, we take pride in creating a unique and memorable dining experience for any size and type of holiday gathering!

YOUR TABLE AWAITS.

www.vintagegroup.ca

Who Snuck The Vegetables Into My Red Velvet Cake? story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

Red velvet cupcakes. The moist, rich, chocolate taste, the fun dark-reddish colouring, topped with a sweet, tangy cream cheese icing flecked with a Madagascar vanilla bean, all packed into a single serving cupcake.

After a hard day’s work, such decadence is completely deserved and, “as a matter of fact”, declares my husband, “I will have another”. I smile as he bites into his second cupcake.

“Do you like them?” I ask.

“They are outstanding as usual.”

“I tried something new”, I said.

“Well whatever it is; this recipe is a keeper.”

“I’m glad you like the cupcakes.

I added beets.”

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The pause; face contorting, memory of his dislike of beets appearing in his face, he’s now struggling to comprehend how I could have been so cruel as to mix “evil” (as he likes to call beets) into anything chocolate.

You won’t even know that beets are tucked in there

And then, there it is; a return to the truth - he smiles and says: “these are amazing! Really? You added beets?”

This recipe for red velvet cake is so moist and delicious you won’t even know that beets are tucked in there. They do not impart the distinctive beet taste and there isn’t a difference in texture.

I won’t tell if you won’t.

Red Velvet Cupcakes Makes 24 cupcakes

300 g uncooked beets 225 g unsalted butter, soft 410 g sugar 3 eggs 1 Tbs (15 mL) vanilla extract or 1 vanilla bean 400 g all purpose flour, sifted 50 g cocoa powder, sifted 10 g baking powder, sifted 7 g baking soda, sifted 1 cup (250 mL) sour cream 1 tsp (5 mL) strong coffee ½ cup (125 mL) hot water 6 Tbs (90 mL) red food colouring (optional)

Preheat oven to 350º F.

1. Trim the stalks and tail from the

beets, rinse and cut into four pieces. In a medium pot add enough water to cover beets and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to medium-low and simmer until cooked and until easily pierced with a fork. Drain, reserving ½ cup (125 mL) of the red beet water. Add the coffee to the reserved beet water. Reserve.

2. Remove the skins. Let cool. Add

cooled beets to a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Reserve.

3. Line cupcake pans with cupcakes liners.

4. In a stand mixer or with a hand

mixer, add softened butter and mix until smooth. Add sugar and mix until fully incorporated and the butter is fluffy and light in colour. Add eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the food colouring (if desired) and mix.

5. Sift the flour, cocoa, baking powder

and baking soda together in one bowl.

Add 1/3 of the flour mixture into the mixing bowl and slowly incorporate.

Scrape sides of mixing bowl.

Add 1/2 the sour cream into the mixing bowl and slowly mix to incorporate.

Scrape bowl.

Add 1/3 of the dry ingredients and slowly incorporate. Scrape bowl.

Add 1/2 the sour cream into the bowl and slowly mix to incorporate.

Scrape bowl.

Add the remaining 1/3 of the dry ingredients and slowly incorporate.

Scrape bowl.

Add the beets and slowly incorporate.

Batter will look chunky however you won’t even notice in the final product.

6. Slowly pour the coffee into the

bowl as the mixer is running on low.

Scrape bowl. Mix for another 30 seconds on medium speed, then scoop into cupcake tins.

7. Bake for 25 minutes or until a

toothpick inserted in the centre of the cake comes out clean. Let cool 10 minutes in the tin. Remove and cool completely on a wire rack.

Cream Cheese Icing Frosts 24 cupcakes

The key to a smooth icing is to make sure the ingredients are softened, and to mix on low.

125 g cream cheese, softened 125 g unsalted butter, softened 300 g icing sugar 1 Tbs (15 mL) vanilla extract or 1 vanilla bean scraped, pod discarded

1. Add softened cream cheese to

mixing bowl and mix on low until smooth. Add softened butter to cream cheese and mix on low until smooth, making sure to scrape the bowl.

2. Add the vanilla extract or vanilla

bean, and incorporate. Add the icing sugar and beat on low until everything is smooth, making sure to scrape the bowl.

Ice your cake or cupcakes.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

Swirl Cakes And Cupcakes: Defying Gravity One Cake At A Time

by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Lynnette MacDonald is getting ready to put together a three-dimensional cake for a child’s birthday party. The cake, which will eventually look like a sweet little horse kneeling prettily in a meadow, involves the flavourful made-from-scratch cake and rich buttercream that MacDonald uses for all of her cakes, but this horsey also needs a metal rod to keep his head aloft and some other engineering tricks to give him his shape. MacDonald is thrilled by the challenge of getting this little guy together and earning the “oohs” and “ahhs” that are bound to come from all the party guests.

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MacDonald is the owner, baker, and cake decorator for Swirl Cakes and Cupcakes, a local custom bakery that specializes in ornately decorated and deeply delicious baked goods for special occasions; weddings, birthdays, retirement parties, or corporate events.

Through her high-end creations and business savvy, MacDonald has created a unique business model that manages to turn a profit while fitting in with her other career as a registered nurse. Two days a week MacDonald bakes out of an otherwise rarely-used commercial kitchen in the back of a ritzy volleyball facility, eliminating the need to pay full-time rent on a dedicated bakery kitchen. She bakes by custom order only, and those orders come in at a pretty fast clip.

“We usually book up at least two weeks in advance and take six to ten orders a week,” MacDonald says. “I think Calgary is already served really well with on-demand bakeries, so we’re really targeting the specialty cakes and the 3D stuff — the gravity-defying cakes.”

The “wow factor” of MacDonald’s cakes is indisputable: over Swirl’s fouryear existence she’s made countless breathtaking wedding cakes, themed cakes, and custom-made cupcakes.

Some of her crowning glories include a cake for the cast and crew of Cirque du Soleil’s Amaluna that featured several different shapes balanced on top of each other, a helicopter flying off an oil rig that she made for STARS, numerous teddy bears for baby showers and first birthdays, and more standard, but still elaborately decorated square and round cakes, often arranged in tiers. While MacDonald does enjoy the creative aspect of her job, she says that her fascination with 3D cakes doesn’t just lie in the artistry — it’s about the science.

The “wow factor” of MacDonald’s cakes is indisputable “I’m an RN by trade and I did a lot of science in university and I love physics and engineering,” she says. “This allows me to combine that with baking.”

But it’s not all about the flash. For MacDonald, the taste of the cake is just as important as the look. Swirl offers a number of different flavours of icing, filling, and cake, all of which are interchangeable by custom order. She says chocolate and vanilla remain the

People recognize that and all the artistry that goes into the final product. And they’re willing to pay for that.”

With orders like the aforementioned Cirque du Soleil cake and a recent project for the Canadian Country

She’s done everything from chocolate chili wedding cakes to Corona cupcakes with lime cream cheese frosting most popular, but she’s done everything from chocolate chili wedding cakes to Corona cupcakes with lime cream cheese frosting. She’ll do gluten and dairy-free cakes (though can’t promise nut-free because she doesn’t use a nutfree facility) and everything that goes out of MacDonald’s kitchen is made completely from scratch.

Music Association Awards in Edmonton, MacDonald’s measure of success is as much about the reaction she gets to her cakes as the number of times her phone rings for new orders. Hearing people say “can we really eat that?” when they see her elaborate cakes and then be blown away by the deliciousness is her greatest reward.

All of this means that Swirl cakes are more expensive than something you’d find in a grocery store or most neighbourhood bakeries (the cakes price out at $6 to $20 a serving), but since she’s dealing with a segment of the food community that values a certain level of quality, the higher-end pricing hasn’t posed a problem at all.

“To get someone like the CCMAs to ask us to come up and do their awards and get the feedback we got is incredible,” MacDonald says. “When I have professional musicians and actors and creative minds tell me that they think my cakes are amazing, that’s when I know I’m doing a good job.”

“With custom and made-from-scratch you get what you pay for,” MacDonald says. “Nothing’s coming out of a box.

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, and co-founder/co-editor of RollingSpoon.com.

She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs.

MacDonald’s interest in cake decorating stems from a lifelong love of baking, but kicked into gear years ago when she started attending cake decorating classes with a friend who wanted to jazz up her kids’ birthday cakes. MacDonald realized that she was good at it (and loved doing it as well), so she continued on. Friends started asking her for cakes for special occasions, then their friends started asking for cakes, and so on. That, coupled with public awareness about what can be done with cakes, thanks to shows like Cake Boss, the market is prime for Swirl’s product.

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Chefs' Tips

Tricks! story by MALLORY FRAYN photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Baking with chocolate can be a labour of love. It is a notoriously difficult ingredient to work with, but the payoff – decadent and rich desserts and sweets – is well worth the effort. Here are some tips from top Calgary pastry chefs on how to successfully incorporate chocolate into your holiday baking.

Chef Yann

Yann Haute Patisserie Recipes are imperative when it comes to baking in general, but Chef Yann, of Yann Haute Patisserie, stresses that following written instructions is not foolproof if you don’t have an organic connection with the food you are working with.

“Chocolate can be intimidating. You have to make three molecules happy in order for them to crystallize properly,” Chef Yann says. The molecules melt at different temperatures, so in order to end up with a shiny finished product, with that characteristic “snap” like good chocolate does, you have to temper it. Luckily, most chocolate comes pretempered, so all you have to do is melt it low and slow (between 31-32º C) to maintain its glossy consistency.

Knowledge like this is far from innate; it comes from years of practice marked by plenty of trial and error. Chef Yann suggests choosing recipes with thorough instructions, while giving credit to your own instincts. For example, home ovens can vary substantially in temperature, so 16

it may take more or less time to bake your sweets than the recipe actually says.

When putting together his chocolate cheesecake, a rich and satisfying dessert that is perfect for any festive celebration, Chef Yann describes how to know that it is done, just by looking at it. “It should still jiggle slightly in the middle but the top will lose its shine,” he says.

Choosing the right chocolate for your chocolate cheesecake is also

Make sure to buy good chocolate that contains real cocoa butter

important. 58-60% cocoa mass works best. If it is any higher, it will cause the cheesecake to firm up too much, losing its silky texture. Make sure to buy good chocolate that contains real cocoa butter, rather than cheap vegetable oil fillers.

All in all, Chef Yann is an advocate for experiential learning. Recipes don’t always turn out the first time, but practice makes perfect!

Chocolate Cheesecake 60 g butter, melted 400 g cookie crumbs 340 g dark chocolate, 58-60% 4 eggs 340 g granulated sugar 1 Kg of cream cheese 1 vanilla bean, scraped 1/3 cup (84 mL) warm water 4 tsp (20 mL) Grand Marnier

Preheat oven to 300º F. Use a deep pan/mould as the mix will rise up to double its size during cooking.

1. Mix cookie crumbs with melted

butter and press uniformly on the base and sides of your pan/mould.

2. Melt chocolate at 45-50º C. 3. Whip the eggs, sugar and

scraped vanilla bean together until fluffy, reserve.

4. In a large bowl, mix cream cheese

slowly adding the whipped egg/sugar to it gradually, scraping the bottom of the bowl. Once mix becomes more fluid, switch to a whisk and keep adding the rest of your eggs/sugar gradually. Slowly add warm water and Grand Marnier.

5. Verify chocolate is at 45-50º C and add all the hot chocolate at once into the mix. Mix but do not over-mix, as it will be hard to pour into your mould.

6. Bake at 300º F with a bowl of

water underneath (150-200 mL) for 30-35 minutes or until the top loses its sheen. Remove from oven, let cool then refrigerate.

This is an abbreviated recipe for more experienced cooks; see culinairemagazine.ca for Chef Manuel’s chocolate cheesecake recipe with detailed instructions.

itself, as long as it doesn’t come in contact with any water or it has the potential to split on you. You can even use a microwave to melt your chocolate, putting it in for short intervals and stirring in between so it doesn’t get too hot.

Chef Manuel Latruwe

Manuel Latruwe No chocolate dessert is more classic than chocolate mousse. Served in a giant bowl or individual portions, it is sure to be a crowd pleaser. For the perfect chocolate mousse recipe, Chef Manuel Latruwe has got you covered.

There are a few key points to bear in mind when making the ultimate chocolate mousse. Chef Manuel prefers to only use egg yolks, omitting the whites, which are primarily water.

Adding whipped cream then lends the airiness that egg whites typically would.

His mousse is also anglaise based, meaning that the egg yolks are cooked into a custard before melted chocolate is added. To ensure that you don’t scramble the eggs, cook them over low heat using a bain-marie, or water bath.

Using this double boiler method is also the best way to melt the chocolate

See culinairemagazine.ca for Chef Manuel’s Chocolate Christmas Log recipe.

Once the chocolate mixture is prepared, you can fold in the whipped cream. Chef Manuel emphasizes that this is a time sensitive process. “If you add cold cream to chocolate and fail to fold it in quickly Get creative with your chocolate mousse for the holidays, add warming spices or liqueur enough, you can end up with tiny specks of hardened chocolate in your mousse,” he says. Try not to over-mix either, or you run the risk of separating the mixture. You want chocolate mousse after all, not chocolate butter.

You can also get creative with your chocolate mousse for the holidays. Try adding warming spices like cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves, or even chilies for an unexpected kick. Alternatively you can booze it up with some Irish cream, orange liqueur, or even hazelnut liqueur.

Or just take a spoon and dig in. We won’t judge.

Chocolate Mousse Serves 6

2/3 cup (166 mL) crème anglaise, room temperature 1 cup (250 mL) whipped cream, 35% 125 g dark chocolate 72%, melted

Combine the anglaise and ¾ of the whipped cream together. Pour 1/3 of the mixture onto the melted chocolate and mix rapidly. Fold the rest of the whipped cream into the bowl and mix well.

Mallory is a food writer living and learning in Calgary, and Culinaire’s Digital Media Editor. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter @cuzilikechoclat 17

Soup Kitchen

by DAN CLAPSON

It’s getting colder and colder out there, so it’s time to start adding those layers back on.

Now, sweaters and long johns can do the trick just fine, but it is the holiday season after all and January is the time for feeling guilty about your calorie intake, so a little extra cream this month isn’t going to hurt anybody. Both of these soups find their ‘warming’ abilities through the silkiness of pureed potatoes and cream.

If you’re feeling extra indulgent, ladle the baked potato soup out into ramekins, top with cheddar cheese and bake in the oven until bubbly, gooey perfection. Don’t take this approach every day, mind you; otherwise that holiday sweater may feel a little tight come Christmas day…

3. Once cream mixture has steeped,

4. Use an immersion blender and

Cream of Wilted Greens Serves 3-4, Total cook time 1 hour 2 cups (480 mL) half and half 1 cup (240 mL) homogenized milk 1 yellow onion, peeled and quartered 2 cloves garlic 2 bay leaves 1 sprig thyme 1 sprig rosemary 1 tsp whole black peppercorns 2 red potatoes, peeled, 2 cm cubed 2 cups (480 mL) vegetable broth 1 cup (240 mL) water 2 cups fresh spinach 2 cups fresh baby kale 2 cups Swiss chard, stalk removed, roughly chopped 2 tsp (10 mL) liquid honey To taste salt and pepper

1. Place the first 8 ingredients in

a medium pot on very low heat and let steep for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Put the next 3 ingredients in

another medium pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Reduce to medium heat and let simmer for 10 minutes.

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pour through a fine mesh strainer into the other pot to help filter out all of the aromatics. Discard aromatics (onion, herbs, etc…).

puree until smooth. Add remaining ingredients, season to taste with salt and pepper, and cook for another 5 minutes to allow greens to wilt.

These soups find their ‘warming’ abilities through the silkiness of pureed potatoes and cream.

Baked Potato Soup with Cheddar Cheese Crisps Serves 4-5, Total cook time 40 minutes 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil 4 strips double-smoked bacon, 1/2 cm sliced 2 tsp unsalted butter 1 yellow onion, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 5 red potatoes, peeled, 2 cm cubed 4 cups (1 L) chicken broth 1 cup (240 mL) water 2 cups (480 mL) half and half 1 Tbs grainy Dijon mustard 2 tsp smoked paprika 3 green onions, thinly sliced To taste salt and pepper Sour cream, for garnish

1. Heat oil in a large pan on mediumhigh heat and cook bacon until crispy.

Remove bacon from pot, transferring to a paper towel to absorb any excess grease.

2. Reduce to medium heat and add butter, onion and garlic to the pot.

Cook until the onion has softened, about 5 minutes.

5. Add cream, mustard, paprika and cooked bacon, and let soup return to a simmer and cook for at least 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

6. Right before serving, stir in sliced

green onions (saving a few for garnish) and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle soup into bowls, top with a cheddar crisp, a dollop of sour cream and green onion.

Cheese Crisps: 2 cups grated medium cheddar cheese

Preheat oven to 350º F.

1. Cover a large baking sheet with

parchment paper and place cheese into 6 even piles, leaving at least 2.5 cm of room between every pile.

2. Bake in oven until cheese is

completely melted and the edges are beginning to turn slightly brown, about 6-8 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool. Crisps will harden as they cool.

3. Add potatoes, broth and water to

the pot and cook until the potatoes are tender, approximately 10 minutes.

4. Use an immersion blender to puree contents of pot until very smooth.

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside

Dressing The Best: Food Lover Outfitting

by DAN CLAPSON AND DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Did you know that two of this country’s premier culinary-focused apparel companies are based out of Calgary? Now, we think that’s pretty damn cool!

Whether you’re craving a new outfit for your next date with your kitchen or looking for a last minute gift for that food crazed person in your life, here are two companies you should probably know about.

Food On Your Shirt Any creative mind will tell you that it’s not easy making a lucrative career out of flexing that creativity, especially when it spans across so many areas: food and cooking, visual arts and language. But, Pierre Lamielle and Candace Bergman, both active in the Calgary food industry, have found the perfect union of their passions in making t-shirts that feature clever puns, jokes and unique illustrations.

“I have a print background and Pierre has illustration and design skills, and we both love food,” says Bergman.

“We thought about what we can do 20

together that’s super fun [and agreed] it absolutely had to do with food. That’s when we decided: we’ll start making food apparel.”

The idea wasn’t apparent when Lamielle was designing t-shirts for Kevin Kent of Knifewear, but it did give him and Bergman the spark when they knew they wanted to do something bigger together.

“We’re just designing shirts we really like and want to wear”

“We did our business plan, I did the research into the type of equipment that would best suit our goals and we just went for it,” says Bergman. “We just jumped off the edge and started the business, purchased the equipment,

made the space in our basement and off we went.”

The approach to creating their t-shirts is humourous, a bit daring and at the heart of it, it’s really what they would enjoy for themselves. But, don’t mistake their drive and excitement for carelessness. These smart cookies have sought out the best direct-to-garment equipment that can give them the most intricate results, sourced materials with the highest quality. Their products are made to order, which means they’re not holding a shipping container full of

inventory from overseas.

Similar to the way it is for food, the support within the local community is important to the duo. If you’ve been to events put on by Top Chef Canada or the Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance, you’ve probably noticed chefs and organizers outfitted in apparel by Food On Your Shirt, and the pair sources Canadian and local materials for their products as often as possible.

“We are particular about what we’re printing on. We found a good line of tea towels out of Vancouver, and we love working with Cam [Dobranski] from Medium Rare,” says Bergman.

With over 200 ideas and more flooding in, Lamielle and Bergman have a lot of work to do and are focused on getting their designs out there, possibly expanding into a wider range of apparel.

“We’re just designing shirts we really like and want to wear, and we design shirts not necessarily thinking if they’ll sell,” says Lamielle.

Bergman chimes in, “We did one for Christmas, with Darth Vader sitting at the table with Luke Skywalker and he says, ‘Dark meat?’”

Like any good joke, you just have to be there. In this case, you just have to wear the shirts! foodonyourshirt.com

Medium Rare Chef Apparel Sometimes you never know how quickly a simple idea can evolve. Back in the late 2000s, local chef and owner of Brasserie and Winebar Kensington, Cam Dobranski, decided he was less than enamoured with the standard chef jacket. White and boxy, fairly standard issue...if you’re ever met the man, this sort of uniform certainly does not “fit” Dobranski –well, when it comes to personality. With the help of a (then) girlfriend’s mother and her stitching skills, a simple apron with a few design updates was the spark that would eventually turn into the culinary flame that Medium Rare Chef Apparel is today.

“That moment actually came very early on for us, almost from the beginning people really latched onto the Medium Rare name and our branding.” explains Dobranski’s business partner, Andrew Dallman. “We really didn’t have to explain to the industry what we were doing, there was immediate understanding and genuine excitement for our concept.”

Since it’s inception in 2008, Medium Rare has evolved significantly.

Originally, the chefswear line was primarily that, for the industry. As interest in the brand - which now offers anything from heavy duty aprons with leather accents, graphic t-shirts and hats to knife bags, knife belts and

kitchen shoes - grew, Dobranski and Dallman saw industry professionals from all over the globe placing orders for aprons, t-shirts and the like. Today, you can walk into restaurants in Vancouver, Chicago, Toronto, Montreal, and in countries like Spain and Denmark, and see chefs wearing the brand.

“We truly believe that MRCA is unique in the marketplace, the upcoming release of our new apparel lines will reinforce this position,” says Dallman on the new items that are premiering this month. “We think it’s great to see other new and creative chef lines emerging now. It only serves to validate what we set out to do back in 2008.” mediumrarechef.com 21

Fruitcake: The Love/Hate Dessert Of The Holidays

by ANGELIQUE PICANCO

It’s a tough life being the fruitcake of the dessert world. Most people don’t even like them around the holidays, banishing the hard loaves to a horrible re-gifting cycle until they become even more inedible than they first began.

Once quite a coveted food item, fruitcake served as a celebratory or wedding cake that dates back to ancient Roman times. What started off as a pomegranate seed, raisin, pine nut, and barley mash medley, eventually evolved to include honey, spices, and fruit preserves during the Middle Ages.

It’s common knowledge that fruitcake isn’t North America’s favourite sweet; it’s the butt of quite a few jokes. Take the Annual Fruitcake Toss in Colorado; while the event is mainly a food drive, people purge themselves of unwanted fruitcakes by tossing them in a competition.

If so loved in the past, when did the hatred begin?

Shedding further light on the origins of this dislike of fruitcake is that

the dessert was often traditionally “saved” for an entire year before it was consumed. Whether a ceremonial fruitcake that marked the end and beginning of a new harvest, or Queen Victoria modestly saving the fruitcake for the following year, the outcome is the same. A 365-day-old cake has got to suck.

But get this. There are people (from this century) who actually love fruitcake.

Advocates of the fruitcake claim that those who regard it with such disgust just haven’t had the right kind: one that’s homemade and prepared with love.

Contrary to popular belief, what makes a homemade fruitcake so “good” is said to be how long in advance it’s allowed to keep before it’s eaten. There’s so much sugar (thus, low water content) that it

produces an unfavourable environment for bacteria. This ultimately allows the cake to sit day after day, without creating a new moldy breed of civilization. According to fruitcake aficionados, this is key for a tasty cake.

Quality dried fruits and nuts are loaded into the cake and share a similar property to wine tannins, which release over time. Flavours are said to intensify

A 365-day-old cake has got to suck as the loaf ripens and matures, and are undoubtedly the most important ingredient. Another vital ingredient is booze. It’s common for bakers to pour liquor - like rum - over the cake to add to its moisture and weight.

The average “ripening” of a fruitcake takes 4-6 weeks, but there are those who side with Queen Victoria and wait a whole year, soaking and brushing the cake with liquor once a week.

Whether it’s the nostalgia of yesteryear, or an old family recipe that keeps the fruitcake relevant, one thing is certain: fruitcakes are unkillable. And that is something that deserves respect.

Visit culinairemagazine.ca for Karine Moulin’s Reimagined Fruitcake recipe, as seen on our front cover.

Montreal native, Angelique is an award-winning Community Manager and senior Managing Editor for Cooking Channel’s “Bitchin’ Kitchen” and upcoming travel show “Bite This with Nadia G”.

Twitter @angelique_p 22

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ways to spice up

oatmeal

by LAURA LUSHINGTON

Gone are the days of thick, unflavourful porridge or thin, watery gruel. Oatmeal has made a comeback and is now regarded as a gourmet, satisfying and healthy morning meal. Full of fibre, and now flavour, eating oatmeal will keep you full long past your 10 am meeting.

If you need any more reason to give oatmeal another go, try Catherine Caldwell’s 2010 World Championshipwinning specialty oatmeal recipe.

1. Overnight Oats

With no cooking involved, overnight oats are a great option for breakfast at your desk or on the road.

In an airtight container, mix a 1:1:1 ratio of oats to milk and yogurt. Seal and leave overnight. In the morning, add your toppings and go! Try combinations from below for different oats every day of the week.

2. Hot n’ Cold

When I’m unexpectedly in a rush in the morning, my favourite way to make oatmeal is to add a handful of frozen mixed berries into the last few seconds of cooking. The heat from the oatmeal will thaw the berries just enough so their juices are easily mixed into the oats. The juxtaposition of hot and cold also helps to wake me up!

3. Savoury Oatmeal

Not all oatmeal is sweet. If your taste buds lean towards the savoury side of things, don’t count oatmeal out as a breakfast option.

Try: - Melting cheddar cheese into your oatmeal and topping with bacon - Adding a handful of spinach into the last few minutes of cooking.

Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, a pinch of chilli flakes and slices of avocado - Topping with your favourite cheese, sautéed vegetables and a sunny side up or poached egg

4. Cappucin-oats

The older I get, the faster I start hunting for caffeine in the morning. Jump-start your day by adding instant coffee into your oatmeal. Dissolve the crystals in the milk and prepare your oatmeal as directed. Add a teaspoon of sugar and a dash of cream at the end. Or, doctor it up however you make your morning cup of joe. This is multi-tasking at its best.

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6. Protein Oats

7. PB + J to the rescue

This is oatmeal with a punch. Up your oatmeal’s protein factor by adding in 1 serving of protein powder at the end of cooking, along with a nut butter and topping. Exercise and health aficionados will tell you this is one of their favourite ways to pack extra protein into breakfast.

There are so many ways to use PB and J, and oatmeal is one of them! Simply stir in a heaping of peanut butter, and swirl in a dollop of your favourite jam or jelly into your oatmeal. You can’t go wrong with this classic flavour combination.

8. Create Your Own Oatmeal

5. Making Banana Oatmeal

I refer to these as banana pancakes in a bowl (aka. cute and simple to make!)

- Make your oats as usual (I highly recommend using milk instead of water).

- When the oats are ready, mash in 1 large banana, a tsp of cinnamon and a tsp of maple syrup.

- Top with toasted walnuts and smile — you’re making banana oatmeal.

Canadian Cranberry Apple Crunch Serves 3 – 4

Recipe courtesy Catherine Caldwell, specialty winner of the 2010 Golden Spurtle World Porridge Making Championships.

1/2 cup Highwood Crossing Organic Steel-Cut Oats 1 ½ cups (360 mL) water 1/4 tsp salt 3/4 cup apple compote (see recipe online) 1 1/2 Tbs apple reduction 3/4 cup candied cranberries, plus 9 more for garnish (see recipe online) 2 1/2 Tbs double (or whipping) cream 2 1/2 Tbs crème fraîche 3/4 cup oatmeal croutons, toasted (see recipe online) 3 – 4 oatmeal sticks, toasted (see recipe online) About 1/3 cup oatmeal-crunch crumbs, toasted (see recipe online)

Use ingredients from your pantry and fridge to give your plain ol’ oatmeal a new life. Mix and match an option from each column for easy ways to give your oatmeal an upgrade.

Choose your milk:

Choose your butter:

Choose your topping:

Regular milk

Peanut butter

Toasted nuts

Soy milk

Almond butter

Dried fruit

Almond milk

Sunflower butter

Fresh fruit

Hemp milk

Nutella

Chocolate chips

Yogurt (Greek, flavoured etc.)

Coconut butter

Spices (Cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, cardamom)

1. Place oats and water in a medium

saucepan over high heat and, stirring occasionally, bring to a boil. Add salt when oats reach boiling point. Reduce heat but maintain a gentle boil, stirring to ensure oats don’t stick to bottom of the saucepan. When water is completely absorbed, in about 20 minutes, remove from heat.

2. In the meantime, mix apple

reduction, apple compote, and candied cranberries in a medium bowl. Mix in cream. Then mix in cooked oats. Lastly, mix in oatmeal croutons.

3. Divide among serving bowls, garnish with oatmeal-crunch sticks and crumbs and then with candied cranberries

Cook’s Notes: Because time was of the essence in the competition, I soaked the oats in the water for about 45 hours in order to shorten the cooking time and make them a wee bit creamier. Most of that time they were refrigerated, but I

brought them to room temperature just before the competition.

See culinairemagazine.ca for Caldwell’s Roasted Apple compote, Candied Cranberries, and Oatmeal Croutons/ Crumbs/Sticks recipes.

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Walter Caesar Mix

For Calgary’s favourite cocktail, choose Walter Caesar Mix Well Spiced or Mildly Spiced. All natural with no msg, no high fructose corn syrup, and no artificial colour, it’s a great last-minute gift paired with a bottle of vodka. About $8 at Calgary Co-op.

Spud Calgary Gift Certificate

We’re all busy, busy, busy, but Spud’s free delivery means you can relax in front of the fire while they bring fresh, local and organic produce, baked goods, meat, seafood and more, straight to your door. Gift Certificates from $35, and baskets to wow your favourite person $129. spud.ca

Calgary Cooks

We can’t go out for dinner every single night of the week, right? Right! So, if you’re looking for some inspiration in your home kitchen, look no further than this cookbook featuring recipes from some of the city’s best chefs like Paul McGreevy, Duncan Ly and more. $22.

Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut Chocolate Yule Log Treat your loved ones to a deliciously decadent milk or dark chocolate Yule log filled to the brim with individual Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut creations. Small: $44, Medium: $65, Large: $85. Available at all 12 Calgary retail locations and at bernardcallebaut.com/shop

Bergamot Fused Olive Oil

If your best friend adores an earl grey tea latte on a cold day, take their bergamot obsession to the next level with this infused olive oil. The floral notes will add nicely to salad dressings and seafood. $30 for 750 mL at Soffritto. soffritto.ca/olive-oil 26

Photo courtesy of Jean Perron

Cabot Trail Maple Cream Liqueur A blend of pure premium Canadian maple syrup, fresh cream and rum, this “OMG, it’s amazing” cream liqueur from Domaine Pinnacle in Quebec, has that wow factor that will put it at the top of everyone’s Christmas wish list. +745168, $34.

McNAUGHTANS Bittered Sling Gift Pack 2.0

Cocktail lovers will go gaga over this six-pack of small-batch bitters. With flavours such as Malagasy Chocolate, and Grapefruit & Hops, these awardwinning bitters will perk up every host’s spirits. $45 at Silk Road Spice Merchants. bitteredsling.com

CUSTOMER........BEN RIACH BRAND................BEN RIACH LIM DESCRIPTION....1977 CASK 18 LABEL SIZE........95 x 95mm SUBSTRATE.......30260T (GOL GRAMMAGE.......

DATE.................29th Jan’13 CODE No..........(McNBR1196)

PDF APPROVAL DOCUMENT

The BenRiach Limited 1977 Release

Whilst we strive to ensure the accuracy and quality of this PDF the approval should be thoroughly checked for any inaccuracies in layout, wording, spelling, size, strength, mandatory content, colours, capacity and barcode details.

It is ultimately, in all aspects, the customers responsibility.

Once approved, labels will be produced in accordance with approved PDF. Please also be advised that due to limitations in digital outputting an accurate representation of the finished label in colour or texture cannot be achieved. The finished label will be produced using colours and substrate as specification.

More for single malt Scotch VERSION No.......1 connoisseurs, BenRiach has specially APPROVED BY...................... selected noteworthy casks and released DATE...................................... just 220 bottles of the 1977 Dark Rum Finish - for Alberta only - so kick back with good friends, quality glasses and share memories over a dram. +760314 $379

Hand Painted Truffles

Head to Yellow Door and Raw Bar at Hotel Arts for a box of Karine Moulin’s lovingly hand-painted truffles. They’re stunning to look at and likely get devoured quickly, the destiny of any well-made chocolate treat! Limited daily quantities available, 6 handpainted truffles per box, $15.

THIS LINE IS 180mm AT 100%

The Glenlivet Winchester Collection 1964

For serious Scotch collectors, The Glenlivet has introduced four new whiskies including the top of the range Winchester Collection 1964 edition.

And… this extremely limited edition single malt Scotch is only available in Alberta, $25,000.

SINGLE CASK BOTTLING

DARK RUM FINISH CASK STRENGTH / NATURAL COLOUR / NON CHILL FILTERED

DISTILLED & BOTTLED IN SCOTLAND B E N R I A C H D I S T I L L E R Y C o., M O R A Y S H I R E , I V 3 0 8 S J

Camp Kit at The Salt Cellar

If you’re looking for something savoury instead of sweet, try the Camp Kit from The Salt Cellar. In this handy box, you’ll find eight samplers of naturally infused sea salts such as Chili and Canadian Bacon, $28. thesaltcellar.ca/products/camp-kit BLACK

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CUTTER

Cooking with Capone

If there was ever a ‘guys’ cookbook, then this is it. Some interesting mafia history intertwined with Italian recipes makes this book just as interesting to read as it is to cook with. It sort of makes you wonder if Capone was an avid home cook himself or if he let other people do the dirty work? $25.

Criollo Chocolate Liqueurs

A perfect hostess gift or luxury stocking stuffer, Criollo’s dual pack of mini Chocolate Raspberry Truffle and Chocolate Sea Salted Caramel liqueurs is the only drink in Canada that uses the very rare Criollo cocoa bean. Pure liquid luxury! +766951, $8.

Many thanks to Calgary Illustrator Colleen O’Reilly, who created and crafted our Gift Guide banner heading illustration.

27

Croft 2012 Quinta da Roêda Port Douro, Portugal Croft is a lesser-known port house on these shores, but I do enjoy their single estate port. The 2012 is still pretty darn young and should spend a few more years in the cellar, but if you want something a little different now, enjoy the almost jammy blackberry fruits, with herb, violets, and a little je ne sais quoi… $62. CSPC +766481

For The Sweet Tooth

by TOM FIRTH

One of the best things about winter - if you aren’t heading to the slopes, is that desserts and dessert wines just taste better.

For the port aficionado, I’m happy to share a couple of single quinta ports in the mix. A quinta or farm is a single estate which produces exceptional port in almost every year, they do tend to mature a little sooner than declared vintage port, but in no way does that

Tinhorn Creek 2013 Kerner Icewine Okanagan Valley, British Columbia The only icewine I think I’ve ever come across made from kerner, I love what they are accomplishing with it at Tinhorn Creek. Floral and aromatic with tropical and citrus fruits, and a silky mouthfeel. Pair with tarts or fruity desserts, 200 mL $34. CSPC +715395 28

diminish their complexity or the enjoyment lurking within.

A little closer to home, I’ve included a Canadian late harvest and a Canadian icewine which are both exceptional, and worth having as a little treat. Right outside our fine city, I’ve mentioned Strathmore’s own Field Stone Fruit Winery which is making lush and balanced wines from local fruits for you to enjoy some local flavour.

Fieldstone NV Saskatoon Berry Dessert Wine, Strathmore, Alberta Fruit wine? Yes please! Great fruit wine is a wonderful treat, and I love how the fresh berry notes of the Saskatoons just come through in the glass. It’s on the sweet side, but a perfect complement to fruit tarts or even chocolaty dishes, 375 mL $20. CSPC +719430

Be safe, be well, and have a happy holiday season.

Quail’s Gate 2013 Botrytis Affected Optima Okanagan Valley, British Columbia One of my favourite after-dinner wines made in Canada. Loving the honeyed and citrus characteristics along with just enough acidity to keep the wine from being cloying. Pair with citrus or tropical fruit-based desserts, or anything with a shortbread, 375 mL $38. CSPC+390328

Taylor Fladgate 2012 Quinta de Vargellas Port, Douro, Portugal Always a classic when it comes to port, the folks at Taylor Fladgate balance power and elegance. I do like the somewhat softer approach in the Vargellas, the slightly softer tannins and powerful floral and fruit tones come together so well. Drink now, or cellar through 2020. $83. CSPC +727152

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Warm Up Winter With Hot Chocolate story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

When the weather outside is frightful, it’s time for hot chocolate. This versatile drink turns the months of cold weather into a delicious way to keep warm.

Kids Hot Chocolate

No need to be limited by store-bought chocolate mixes that can contain a lot of sugar, as it is easy to make your own.

All you need is chocolate and milk. It’s that easy. The crucial part of the two ingredients is the chocolate. Make sure to get the best chocolate that you can - as this will make all the difference in taste. Hot chocolate is also a great

Now the fun:

“make ahead of time” drink that just needs a gentle reheating and is fantastic if left in a slow-cooker to keep warm for when you come back in from a day of skiing or snow-shoeing. This also allows friends and family to serve themselves; just add a station with bowls of mini marshmallows, sprinkles and whipped cream.

Make sure to get the best chocolate that you can

Serves 4

150 g milk chocolate 3 ¾ cups (900 mL) homogenized milk

marshmallows whipped cream (whip 35% cream and icing sugar to soft peaks) sprinkles

1. Melt chocolate on low heat over a double boiler.

2. In a medium-sized, heavy bottom

pot heat milk on medium heat. Add 1/4 of heated milk to the melted chocolate and stir to combine. Add the milk and chocolate mixture to the rest of the milk and whisk to combine.

3. Serve warm with marshmallows, a

dollop of whipped cream and sprinkles.

30

Mexican Style Hot Chocolate Serves 3

Kicked-up hot chocolate for the adults makes a great after-dinner drink on a cold winter’s night

White Chocolate Coconut Hot Chocolate

Nutty Monkey Hot Chocolate (for the adults)

165 g white chocolate 1 can (400 mL) coconut milk 2 cups (500 mL) 2% M.F. milk 1 Tbs (15 mL) vanilla extract or 1 vanilla bean, scraped 45 mL rose water, optional

150g semi-sweet chocolate 4 cups (1 L) almond milk 1 Tbs (15 mL) vanilla extract ¼ tonka bean, grated 4 Tbs (60 mL) banana liqueur

Serve with a dollop of whipping cream and shaved white chocolate for garnish.

double boiler.

Serves 3

1. Heat white chocolate over a double boiler. Make sure to stir the chocolate so it doesn’t burn.

2. Heat coconut milk, 2% milk and

vanilla in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add 1/4 of the heated milk to the melted white chocolate and stir to combine. Return white chocolate mixture to the pot with the coconut milk and milk, and whisk to combine.

Serves 3

1. Melt chocolate on low heat over a 2. In a medium-sized, heavy bottom

pot heat milk on medium heat. Add 1/4 of heated milk to the melted chocolate and stir to combine. Add the milk and chocolate mixture to the rest of the milk and whisk to combine.

3. Bring to desired temperature

without boiling. Remove from heat and whisk in the banana liqueur. Serve with whipped cream and chocolate shavings.

without boiling. Remove from heat and add rose water if using. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream.

1. The fat content of the milk

determines how thick and rich you like your drink.

1. Melt chocolate over a double boiler.

2. Heat the milks in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat.

3. Whisk in chilli powder, grated tonka

bean, grated nutmeg, vanilla, salt, black pepper and cinnamon.

4. Add 1/4 of the milk mixture to the

melted chocolate and stir gently to combine. Return chocolate mixture to the milk mixture and whisk to combine.

5. Bring to desired temperature

without boiling. Remove from heat and serve with a stick of cinnamon for garnish.

Note: tonka beans have an almond, vanilla flavour and can be found in spice stores

3. Bring to desired temperature

Chocolate is a versatile ingredient and these recipes are to get you started on some of the many options available. Two decisions to take into consideration when planning your own hot chocolate creations:

110 g semi-sweet chocolate (I used 60% cocoa) 1 cup (250 mL) 2% M.F. milk 1 3/4 cups (450 mL) half & half cream 1 cup (250 mL) 35% M.F. cream 1 Tbs (15 mL) vanilla extract or 1 vanilla bean ¼ tsp chilli powder 20 g cinnamon ¼ tonka bean, grated 1 g nutmeg, grated pinch sea salt 3 g black pepper cinnamon stick for garnish

2. Your favourite kind of chocolate.

White and milk chocolate have a gentler flavour profile, so any additions should be approached with a gentle hand.

Semi-sweet chocolate has a stronger flavour profile and therefore will need more intense flavour combinations to marry with the darker chocolate.

Kicked-up hot chocolate for the adults makes a great after-dinner drink on

a cold winter’s night. Try adding your favourite liqueur; Bailey’s, Kahlua and Grand Marnier are all good choices.

If you really love coffee after dinner, then go ahead and add a shot of strong coffee to the hot chocolate. This also makes a great weekend brunch treat when it’s snowing outside and all you want to do is cuddle up by the fire and read a book.

31

Step By Step: Gingerbread Houses story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

One of my favourite childhood Christmas memories is going to a good friend’s house for her birthday, just one week before Santa was to arrive.

Her mother had planned for us to make gingerbread houses, and their gigantic dining table was arranged with slabs of gingerbread pieces and candy.

It was every twelve year-old girl’s dream come true. Well, if Corey Hart had made an appearance, then it really would have been this girl’s dream come true, but I digress...

It was an afternoon of creating our little cottages, as we saw fit. Creativity was stirred; royal icing got stuck in the hair, and news of who liked who dominated

32

Royal Icing

the conversation. I remember riding in the back of the minivan after the party, holding my little gingerbread house tight, amazed that I built something so pretty. That’s what is so magical about Christmas; these memories that linger, long after the royal icing has dried.

2 large egg whites 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice 3 cups powdered sugar

Beat the egg whites, lemon juice and powdered sugar until fluffy, about 7- 8 minutes, with the mixer on low speed.

Use immediately or transfer to an airtight container - royal icing hardens very quickly when exposed to air.

Making a gingerbread house from scratch has some steps and can take a while, but the effort you put into it is well worth the end result. It’s a great way to keep the kids occupied while school is out, and with any luck the gingerbread houses will become the stuff of family lore and the start of a new Christmas tradition.

Can be refrigerated for up to one week, just beat again in mixer to incorporate again.

The effort you put into it is well worth the end result

Memories linger long after the royal icing has dried

Gingerbread

Assembly

The recipe makes a lot of dough, perfect if you want to cut out extra pieces in case there is a mistake, or cut out into cookies to decorate and eat as is.

Just remember to bake cookies for about 10 minutes if they aren’t going on the house.

Begin by finding a base or support for your house, such as a covered piece of cardboard, cake stand, cake plate etc.

You will need a piping tip #10 and a piping bag.

1 cup unsalted butter 1 cup packed dark brown sugar 3 tsp ground cinnamon 3 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground cloves 1 tsp salt 2 large eggs 1 cup (240 mL) molasses 5 cups all purpose flour

Find a template you like, or create your own. Cut the base, sides, roof, chimney, door, out of paper or cardboard.

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream butter and sugar until fluffy, about 3 minutes. On low speed, mix in spices and salt. Be sure to scrape the sides of the bowl thoroughly.

2. Beat in eggs and molasses, cream for 2 more minutes. On low speed, beat in the flour until a ball forms.

3. Dump onto a lightly floured surface, divide into thirds and shape each into a disc. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least one hour.

4. Preheat oven to 375º F. 5. Roll the chilled dough out to 5-6

mm thick. Trace out the parts of the house and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for about 15 minutes, it will be slightly longer for larger pieces and shorter for smaller pieces. You want the gingerbread to be firm, but not dark around edges.

6. Cool completely, and let stand

for at least 2 hours before proceeding with assembly.

1. Start by piping royal icing on the

bottom of a side piece, propping up with a spice bottle or soup can if need be.

2. Pipe icing on the inside of a front

piece and stick it to the other side piece.

Continue to ice sides and bottoms together to form the house. Remember to work quickly, as the icing dries very fast. Let dry for about 12 hours before proceeding with roof and chimney.

3. Let dry 12 hours after that before

attaching candy and finishing the house completely. This is where you get to be as creative as you want, choosing your colour palette and candy preferences.

Renée Kohlman is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon. She writes restaurant reviews for The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and whips up delicious gluten-free dessert creations at Leyda’s Café. Check out her blog sweetsugarbean.com 33

The Perfect Beer Glass Your Beer Deserves It!

by KIRK BODNAR

As much as I hate to admit it, wine drinkers may understand the whole “glassware thing” a bit better than the average craft beer drinker.

The wine buffs have always had a clear grasp on how the shape of a wine glass can affect the appreciation of the wine itself. It is widely accepted that different varieties of wine belong in different glasses – even as simply as a separate glass for white, red, and sparkling wine.

Drinking wine from anything but the appropriate glass is nearly unheard of.

Then why should it be acceptable to treat a top-rated beer this way? This has nothing to do with suggesting that beer should be fancier or something more than it deserves to be. The simple fact is that most of what we perceive as taste

34 34

actually comes from our sense of smell.

Therefore, if we want to fully experience the entire character of whatever it is we are consuming, we need to be able to smell it.

All of our senses play a role in our appreciation of what we consume, be it food or drink. Have you ever become hungry after watching a commercial or a cooking show on TV or perhaps after hearing the amazing sizzling sound a steak makes as it hits the grill? Clearly all of our senses make up a part of the greater picture. So when it comes to appreciating beer to its fullest, we

absolutely need to consider this – and the true key to this lies in the use of proper glassware.

To complicate things, there are countless styles of beer glasses out there. Each glass design has a purpose - hopefully that purpose involves actually adding to the experience of the beer, and not merely providing a surface for corporate advertising.

In any case, a beer glass should work toward accentuating the individual characteristics of a beer style.

Tulip –This traditional Belgian design is perhaps the best all-around beer glass.

If you were to stick to one style of beer glass, this would be the one to go with.

Its flared rim helps to hold a beautiful frothy head, and its narrow neck helps to keep the aroma concentrated and directed toward your nose with every sip. This glass will work for nearly any style of beer – from lighter Belgian Witbiers to aromatic West Coast IPAs.

To simplify things, here are four styles of beer glasses that anyone who appreciates real beer should own:

Weizen – This glass is designed specifically for German Wheat Ales – or Hefeweizen – so if you appreciate the light, but flavourful character of a “Hefe” then you really need to own one of these. The glass is tall and slender but curves as it nears the top.

The curve is there to encourage and maintain a frothy head – the head being a distinct element of the style, from which the characteristic aromas of banana and clove emanate. The glass is also intended to show off the hazy appearance of the beer.

Most of what we perceive as taste actually comes from our sense of smell

Snifter – Although not necessarily designed for beer, a snifter is the glass of choice when you are dealing with very bold flavoured and higher ABV beers, such as imperial stouts or perhaps barley wines. These beers are sipping beers, and should be served in smaller quantities - a full pint would be too much at once. There is perhaps no better glass to direct the bold roast malt aromas and complex, often deep and dark fruity characteristics of these huge beers straight to your face. Plus there is something classy about swirling your beer in a snifter – perhaps along with a Cuban cigar as well?

35

Chalice/Goblet – Perhaps not 100% necessary for a home bar, but definitely a very formidable vessel to possess, and perfect for those “Game of Thrones” theme parties. This glass was traditionally designed to hold Belgian Abbey Ales – beers that are incredibly bold and full of rich and complex flavour.

The wide rim provides plenty of space for a thick head, allowing the complex aromas to be easily accessible to the drinker. If you enjoy slowly sipping on huge Belgian abbey ales, than this one’s a must.

Cutting Edge Beer Glassware Decent beer glasses can be found at most kitchen and home stores, though there is one brand that is worth noting for pushing the envelope as of late.

Glassware designer Spiegelau has recently collaborated with a number of top US Craft breweries to design two different glasses specifically intended for drinking specific styles of beer– namely IPAs and Stouts.

The Spiegelau IPA Glass, $20 The glass was designed in collaboration with Dogfish Head Craft Brewery and Sierra Nevada Brewing Company. There are various characteristics common to IPAs that were considered in the design of this “perfect glass for India Pale Ales”. The shape concentrates the intense hop aroma and focuses it toward the nose.

The design also helps to maintain a good amount of carbonation and helps to keep a nice frothy head.

The Spiegelau Stout Glass, $25 The glass was designed in collaboration with Rogue Ales and Left Hand Brewing Company. In this case, the stout style was considered specifically in the design of the glass. Its unique shape is purported to accentuate the rich malt and chocolate characteristics that are commonly found in stouts. spiegelau.com

Photos courtesy of Spiegelau GMBH, © 2014 36

The standard Nonic pint glass, or even worse, the Shaker pint glass, are popular in pubs because they are cheap, simple enough to print corporate logos on, and they are easily stackable and resistant to breaking. The sides are basically straight which does nothing to concentrate aromas, and very little to sustain the head.

There is a bit of a nostalgic element to the Nonic, as it is commonly associated with British ales – so I’ll give it that, though I won’t be so forgiving of the Shaker style. Despite its shortcomings, the Shaker has unfortunately become the ever-present, typical North American Craft Beer glass; you can often find many amazing craft beers served (well below their potential) inside a Shaker pint in any number of otherwise fantastic beer bars from coast to coast.

A beer glass should work toward accentuating the individual characteristics of a beer style Although the beer still tastes fine at the end of the day, the drinking experience could be so much more with a glass that truly works to emphasize the beer’s strengths. If you must insist on the good old pint glass, try to stick to lighter, less complex beers.

So, the take home message here is this: for heaven’s sake, drink your beer like a civilized person and pour it into the proper glass - your beer deserves that much respect. Only then will you be able to experience the true character of the beer in all its glory. And don’t forget, a set of cool beer glasses makes a great gift!

Kirk Bodnar is a beer consultant for some of Calgary’s better beer destinations. He is also a certified BJCP beer judge. @beersnsuch, facebook.com/beersnsuch

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The Case For Wine:

Holiday Wines

Kim Crawford 2013 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand

by TOM FIRTH

‘Tis the season - the time of year to open the “good stuff” or give a special gift. I’ll be the first to admit that although I’m usually planning the wine for dinner on the 25th, there are plenty of other days to get together with friends or family to have a bite and maybe a sip or two. The wines here range from reasonable to “maybe for a special occasion”, but they also cover the gamut from a wine for turkey, to an evening out or a special night at home.

A classic approach to New Zealand sauvignon blanc, bright gooseberry fruits, lifted herbaceous and grassy characteristics, mango, and a little bit of jalapeño brine. Vibrant to taste, it’s very pleasing if a little tart. Perfect for those that love salmon over the holidays. $20 CSPC +743859

Bollinger NV Rosé Champagne France A delightful pink in the glass with bright strawberry and raspberry fruits, biscotti, limestone, and apples on the nose.

The palate is remarkably consistent with lush fruits, a fine mousse, and persistent finish. A pleasure to drink any time of day! $108 CSPC +732904

Quinta do Vale Meão 2012 Vintage Port, Douro, Portugal Definitely a fan of this vintage port.

Rich, sweet berries, floral and herb with plenty of spice notes. A little thick (as a brand new port should be), but still approachable now with a decant or two.

Tasted alongside the 2000 vintage leads me to recommend cellaring about 1520 years for best maturity. $100 CSPC +106708

38

Kaiken 2011 Ultra Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza, Argentina

Bernard-Massard NV Brut Cuvée de L’Ecusson, Grevenmacher, Luxembourg

Brancaia 2011 Ilatria, Tuscany, Italy

With 12 months of barrel, this is a great reminder that not every wine in Argentina is a malbec. Look for peppery blueberries, cassis, lavender, bell peppers (not too much), and cigar box. Tannins are firm, but nuanced enough to handle a rich, wintery meal. $28 CSPC +723332

I’m still over the moon that we finally have great bottles of bubbly from tiny Luxembourg. This sparkler hits well above its price range with champagnelike flavours and textures while still being a great buy. Pair with a party, enjoy with a toast! $24 CSPC +95158

A highly unusual blend of 40 percent cabernet sauvignon with 40 percent petit verdot and 20 percent cabernet franc. Deep and velvety in the glass, it’s bold on the nose and palate with resin, cocoa, raspberry, tarry, and earthy characters punctuated by intense floral and spice notes. Decant 1-2 times before serving or wait 3-5+ years or so. $76 CSPC +720605

Spier 21 Gables 2013 Chenin Blanc South Africa

Regis Boucabeille 2013 “Les Terrasses” Cotes du Roussillon Villages, France

Pierre Peters NV Grand Cru Champagne, France

With 14 months of oak aging bringing an added dimension to this lovely chenin, look for vanilla over honey, lemon, and pear fruits on the nose. Believe me when I say that it has just the right amount of oak to balance the fruit. Delicious through and through - serve chilled, but not too cold. $26 CSPC +260646

A blend of grenache noir with 40 percent syrah and 10 percent carignan, this beauty shows off black berry fruit, earth and spice, with fairly soft tannins and some plushness on the finish. Serve slightly chilled if desired, but pair with anything from braised meats to game or grilled meats. $18 CSPC +464883

A blanc de blanc champagne, this is one of the tastiest I’ve enjoyed this year.

Granny Smith apples, biscuit, spice, and citrus notes with a stylish, creamy feel on the palate. From first sip to the last, it’s delicious. Find it, buy it, and enjoy it. $72 CSPC +795187

Kaiken Terroir Series 2014 Torrontes Salta, Argentina

Chateau Beaucastel 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, France

I’m always a fan of good torrontes, but this one is a gem. Pears and peaches with super-floral characteristics and a touch of mandarin orange on the nose.

Lifted floral flavours with tropical fruits and a slightly waxy texture leading into just a touch of bitterness on the finish. $15 CSPC +330407

After tasting through the line from Beaucastel proprietor, Thomas Perrin, I was thrilled to rediscover that I had a case of the 2005 of his Chateauneuf hiding in a dark corner of my cellar.

Everything I want in a Chateauneuf with spice box, sage, tobacco, and intense fruits. Delicious from first sip to empty glass. Drinking very well now, cellar with confidence too. $88 CSPC +380139

Maison Louis Jadot 2011 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru Burgundy, France There nothing quite like good burgundy.

This one is so understated, that it makes its own statement. Layers upon layers to be found making this classic pinot noir captivating. Go on, splurge on an unforgettable wine for the big holiday dinner. $200+ CSPC +42085

39

Bigger-Better:

Large Format Wines

by ADRIAN BRYKSA

As an oenophile, nothing gets my pulse racing more when I ask the question, “What’s new in the shop?” than when I hear “magnums” or “large formats”.

This term “Magnum”, along with Double Magnum or Jeroboam, sets collectors’ heart strings aflutter as these represent the wine lover’s trophy known as large format bottles. What constitutes a large format? The world has universally settled on the 750 millilitre bottle (sometimes known as 75cl) as its standard for wine, making anything larger than that a large format.

The most common is the Magnum representing 1.5 Litres or 2 standard bottles. The next size up is the rarer 3 Litre bottle known as the Double Magnum, followed by the Imperial or

40

6 Litre. After the Imperial is the 9L Salmanazar, whose volume represents a full case of wine in one enormous bottle.

Growing larger is the 12L Balthazar joined by the 15L Nebuchadnezzar and the mammoth 18L Melchior. The Nebuchadnezzar and Melchior are so enormous, they often need two people just to handle them, making lifting and subsequent pouring a tag-team event.

So what is it about these large format bottles that make them so irresistible to oenophiles and wine collectors? The first thing mentioned is typically their

ageability. Most collectors believe that wine housed in larger bottles has the ability to age for longer periods as the effect of time and maturation is slowed.

For smaller volume bottles, like the Piccolo and Split, the effects of age are much more rapid as the same principles apply.

Collectors also love large formats for the rarity/collectability of the bottles.

Magnums and larger are relatively rare due to the production costs that winemakers have to absorb to bottle these monsters. This is why it is common to have a magnum retail

at a higher price than the price of two standard 750ml bottles. Someone has to pay for that added glass, additional handling, and specially made wooden crates for shipping. Large formats are often the centrepieces of a cellar and can be quality indicators as to the rest of the bottles contained within. Special racking and lighting to profile these bottles in high-end cellars are the norm.

While large format bottles remain like the Holy Grail, they are not as difficult to find as one might expect. Retailers like Zyn, Willow Park Wine and Spirits, Crowfoot Wine and Spirits, Highlander Wine and Spirits, and CSN Wine, all support a decent supply of these gems.

While one could spend hundreds or even thousands on a single bottle, there are several available under the one hundred dollar mark that represent great quality and excellent value. As the holiday season nears, look to a large format bottle to leave a lasting impression on those wine lovers on your list. Remind them to remember you and hopefully share when they decide to open that special bottle. All of these wines are of course also available in the standard, 750ml bottle as well.

Nino Franco NV Rustico Prosecco 1.5L Perfect for a party, a magnum of Rustico is a sure fire way to impress your guests. Showing notes of peach with a creamy core, lively acid and long finish, this sparkling Italian beauty is wonderful on its own or as a constituent in a Cinque Terre or Red Velvet cocktail. $45 CSPC +702876

Poggio San Polo 2007 Brunello Di Montalcino 1.5L 2007 was a fantastic vintage in Montalcino, and the expression from San Polo is one for the ages. With notes of cherry, allspice and dried mushroom, this wine will sail well into 2020 and even longer in large format bottle. $115 CSPC +749357

Muga 2004 Seleccion Especial 1.5L With the Seleccion Especial, Rioja’s Bodegas Muga continue to impress with this blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. Showing notes of espresso, blackberry, smoke, leather and graphite, this Spanish beauty is entering its drinking window over the next 8 years. $71 CSPC +722572

Laughing Stock 2012 Portfolio 1.5L One of the top rated Okanagan reds, Portfolio has been made since 2003 and is helping to bring BC wine to the fore. The 2012 vintage was warmer than most, giving us a Portfolio that is a little more masculine. Black berry fruits, sage, herbal tones, and lilac along with plenty of structure for the cellar.

It can go 10+ years, but I’d drink within 5-7 to keep some of the power. Highly recommended for serious drinkers or collectors. (TF) About $125 CSPC +736239

The following is a list of some of the more common bottle sizes and their equivalent. Some of the names change depending if they are used in Bordeaux, Champagne, or Burgundy bottlings.

Piccolo

187ml

¼ Bottle

Salmanazar

9L

12 Bottles (1 full case!)

Demi or Split

375ml

½ Bottle

Balthazar

12L

15 Bottles

Standard

750ml

1 Bottle

Nebuchadnezzar

15L

18 Bottles

Magnum

1.5L

2 Bottles

Melchior

18L

24 Bottles (2 full cases)

Jeroboam

3L

4 Bottles

Solomon

20L

28 bottles

Imperial

6L

8 Bottles

Primat

27L

36 bottles

(3 full cases)

Mouton Rothschild 2009 3L If money is no object, then the 3L of the 2009 Mouton Rothschild may be your candidate. With an average score from critics of 98 points, this powerful expression of Bordelais Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is projected to be a 50-year wine. Expect notes of violets, graphite and cassis with a rich opulence only seen in the best vintages.

A cellar queen! $5,000 CSPC +751099 Always relevant and never compromising, Adrian is one of the voices behind yycwine.com and has freelanced for Wine Spectator, New York and Good Bottle of Wine, London, England.

41

That Sparkle In Your Eye...

by ERIKA TOCCO

There is just something that I really love about sparkling wine. I am not sure if it is the fact that I feel it looks and tastes just so decadent, or if it is because it is such a labour of love to make.

After all, how can you not appreciate a product that is so time-consuming to make? Maybe it is a combination of all of those factors that make this wine style so appealing. I think F. Scott Fitzgerald was right when he said, “too much of anything is bad, but too much champagne is just right.”

Consider this. Bubbly comes in many different forms. Sweet, semi-sweet, dry, rosé, white, and even red. It is very easy to pair with just about any type of food group. It stands its ground against meat dishes and various different cooking methods thanks to its lovely acidity.

It is absolutely divine with seafood especially shellfish, thanks to its weight and frothy, creamy textures.

It matches the tannins in vegetables, and the varying degrees of sweetly coloured flesh. With fruit it is idyllic, often expressing a fruit-driven profile that can impress any dessert lover. It can make the acid in foods more mellow, cut through the fattiest cuts of meat,

42

and temper the sweetest of desserts. Of course one must not forget that bubbly has always been, and always will be, the drink of choice for celebrations, not forgetting about New Year’s Eve, the biggest party of the year!

I think F. Scott Fitzgerald was right when he said, “too much of anything is bad, but too much champagne is just right.”

If you look at the different regions that have a history of sparkling wine production, study closely their regional foods. You will find a serious match of food flavour that harmonizes with the bubbles made in the same region.

It is no surprise that you will see varying levels of proof that sparkling wine is so adaptable to many different food groups.

There are many different types of sparkling wine out there to choose from.

Of course, champagne is the premium region for bubbles, but sparkling wine is made all over the world and there are many different types to consider.

Cava

Another good “bang for your buck” sparkler is Spanish Cava. Made the same way as Champagne, Cava rarely exceeds $30 on retail shelves. Producers in Spain have recently won the battle to append places of origin instead of stating the generic term “cava” on their labels. Cava is predominantly made from indigenous Spanish grapes and comes in rosé versions as well.

Prosecco

Lambrusco

Adami Bosco di Gica N/V Brut Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG Veneto, Italy $28

Medici Concerto 2012 Dry Lambrusco Salamino Emilia-Romagna, Italy $23

Get on the prosecco train. Prosecco is made in the north of Italy and is made by the Charmat or “tank method”.

What that means is that the dry wine is combined in a big tank and the secondary fermentation occurs there.

Then the wine is bottled under pressure and sent to market. Prosecco has a casual reputation for being a fun, not too serious wine but that is changing.

There are some serious prosecco producers that are changing the face of the wine and creating versions that are more elegant and more complex.

Be still my heart. There is something to be said about a wine that can hold its own as a red sparkling wine. Originating in the Abruzzo region of Italy, Lambrusco caters to the hearty palate that needs a break. Bigger bubbles dominate this sparkling wine. It’s very frothy in style and is usually a deep, dark red (rosé examples can be found).

What a great party wine! This wine can be found in a range from dry to sweet.

Fruity, rich and often slightly heavier in texture and bubbles, this is a fun wine to drink as a digestif.

Pares Balta NV Brut Cava Penedes, Spain $18

Methode Traditionelle

This term is used for sparkling wine made outside France that uses the champagne method. Methode Traditionelle is used for wines that mimic champagne in production and often utilize the same grapes. It is no surprise that the best examples come from champagne houses that endeavour to make sparkling wine in other countries. Moët & Chandon, Tattinger, Mumm, and Roederer all have wineries in sunny California.

Schug 2010 Brut Rouge De Noirs California, United States $41

Cremant

Cremant is made all over France and is the cheaper version of delicious French bubbles. When I say cheap, I mean wines that average $25 a bottle.

Cremant utilizes the same method as champagne producers use to make their sparkling wine, only the pressure in the bottle is not high as champagne wine and the ageing requirements are less stringent. That being said, I have never had a cremant that has failed to impress.

They come in rosé form too!

Paul & Philippe Zinck N/V Cremant d’Alsace Alsace, France $25

Erika Tocco is the senior wine director for Vin Room and has taught for WSET, levels 1-3. Follow her on twitter @corkscrewlady.

The Champagne Cocktail

by REBECCA DAVIS photography by INGRID KUENZEL

“Come quickly, I am drinking the stars!”

The Dom had it right, sparking wine really does taste how I would imagine stars might: bright, luminous, and oh-so-shimmery!

Whether you use champagne, prosecco, or cava, any bubbles will make do: it’s a matter of personal preference. Just make sure to keep your pinkies up! After all, sometimes the celebration is simply having bubbles in your fridge!

French 75

Polish Kiss

1 oz Tanqueray Rangpur Gin ½ oz lemon juice ½ oz honey syrup 1:1 Brut Champagne

¾ oz Belvedere Vodka ¼ oz Cointreau 1 bar spoon ice wine jelly ¼ oz lemon juice syrup Dry Rosé Sparkling Wine

Shake all ingredients (with the exception of the champagne!) and strain into chilled glass, crown with bubbles.

Garnish with a lemon twist.

Shake all ingredients, except bubbles, and double strain into a coupe glass. Top with bubbles.

Sometimes the celebration is simply having bubbles in your fridge!

The Cat’s Meow 1 oz Basil Hayden Bourbon 1/2 oz Apricot Brandy 1-2 Dashes Plum Bitters Rosé Champagne

Shake first three ingredients, strain into glass. Crown with champagne. Garnish with orange rind.

A born and raised Calgarian, Rebecca’s passion for wine and spirits started early. Originally a sommelier, she instinctively progressed into cocktails. On her days off Rebecca enjoys a classic Old Fashioned.

44

Mexico Is More Than Just Tequila

by DAVID NUTTALL

When planning a winter getaway, you may be thinking of a sunny beach in Mexico, but ask anyone what comes to mind when they think of Mexican spirits and the answer is invariably “tequila”.

While tequila does reign supreme, two new imports have found their way on to local liquor store shelves, artisanal mescal and sotol. Now mescal (or mezcal) has been around for decades in Alberta, but up until recently it was only the harsh, lower grade products with worms or scorpions in the bottle. Sotol is a brand new liquor to our market and, while both have certain similarities, they are completely different drinks.

Both spirits, like tequila, are derived from indigenous plants, produced in a similar manner, and classified the same way. Yet they all have distinctive flavours that set them apart.

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Mescal is made from any of about 120 different varieties of maguey (a form of agave) grown in several parts of Mexico, but mostly in the southern state of Oaxaca. When the plant matures between seven and fifteen years

(depending on species), the heart, called the piña, is extracted and then cooked in earthen pits for as long as six days. It’s this underground baking that produces the distinct smoky flavour that defines mescal. These piñas are then crushed and left to ferment in water inside large vats.

The resultant mash is then distilled twice in steel or copper stills and will then either be bottled immediately as blanco or joven mescal, or put into wooden barrels for aging. Aging can be for as little as one month or as long as twelve years. Like tequila, reposados are aged from two months to a year, añejos for a minimum of one year. Many mescals are aged between two to four years, much longer than most tequilas.

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Mescal

directly as plata (silver); the rest is aged in barrels to become either reposado or añejo, using the same age classifications as tequila and mescal.

Unlike tequila, which is dominated by two main production houses, most mescals are made by small scale producers, with over 90% of them residing in Oaxaca. In the last decade, the Mexican government has been helping promote the production and exportation of artisanal mescal. Most of these mescals are produced at a small palenque (distillery), some using a single species of wild maguey from a single estate, crushed by a mule-drawn tahona wheel, distilled in a copper pot still and inscribed with the name of the distiller and the village of production.

Unlike tequila, which is dominated by two main production houses, most mescals are made by small-scale producers

Since sotol is not smoked like mescal and it comes from a different plant, it has quite a different flavour. The plata is very clean and almost minty tasting. Even the barrel-aged products taste much lighter than their tequila and mescal cousins. There are seven different sotols available here, all from Hacienda de Chihuahua.

company (est. 2010), they create only traditional 100% organic silver mescals that highlight the different agave varietals. Most are distilled in clay pots and the Coyote has subtle fruit notes with hints of anise and chocolate. 48% ABV. $140.

Sotol You can taste the quality in these mescals. While the marked smoky flavour is always present, the smoothness and richness becomes more evident, similar to a fine peaty scotch.

Almost all are blancos, as aging in barrels influences the flavour, and these mescals are about highlighting the plant and/or the terrior. This kind of mescal is not cheap, as bottles sit in the $100$300 range.

El Jolgorio Madrecuixe - El Jolgorio produce nine unique mescals by different distillers in separate villages using distinct varieties of agave. This one is produced in Santa Maria Zoquitlan, Oaxaca, using only 13 year old, wildharvested Agave Madrecuixe which is pit roasted, tahona wheel crushed, open fermented, double distilled and bottled at 47% ABV. Extremely crisp and smooth. $170 Los Siete Misterios Coyote - The Seven Mysteries produce seven mescals, four of which are available in Alberta. A new 48

Sotol is produced in the northern states of Mexico, but mostly in Chihuahua, and is derived from another type of agave known as the Desert Spoon (or sotol). The sotol plant grows wildly at 1,000-2,500 metres above sea level and matures after about 15 years. Its flower stalk is harvested, and its core is slow cooked for three days in clay ovens, crushed, fermented with champagne yeast and then distilled in a double column copper still. Some is bottled

Plata - The silver version of sotol is the purest form of the spirit. Each bottle contains one full plant worth of distilled nectar, which is organically grown on the mountains of Chihuahua. It has a zesty, herbal, green flavour that is softer than tequila, so it is great for cocktails, but also can be drunk straight. $43 Extra-Añejo H5 - So named because it is aged in new French white oak barrels for five years; this is the richest and smoothest of the family. It’s made to be sipped like brandy in a snifter to fully appreciate its caramel-toffee flavour. $135 Crema de Sotol - The cream liqueur of sotol is made with pecans, which gives it a rich flavour that isn’t too sweet.

At 17% ABV, it’s so easy drinking and smooth, it’s bound to find its way into coffee and cocoa in the winter. Make sure you try it by itself or on the rocks. $38

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Open That Bottle

by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

“When you are raised in an environment like this, it does become a part of you,” says James Buchanan, of Buchanans Chophouse.

It was his first job, working as a busser and dishwasher at fourteen, then serving and bartending when he turned eighteen. “I’m turning thirty this year and I’ve already been here for sixteen years now, so I’m one of the senior guys here at a very young age,” he laughs.

It wasn’t always the case. “My parents were extremely supportive,” he says, “they’ve said a number of times, to try to find something else and have a life.” And so for years Buchanan played rugby professionally, spending time in England, Australia and New Zealand, and a couple of years training on the west coast with the Canadian national team. “Even though they’re taking a bit of a step back, they’re still involved,” he continues, “and the boss man and boss lady are still the best resources to ever have to continue to make this place successful. I don’t want to blow it; I want to make them proud. I really do feel that people like to come into a family restaurant and know that there is a Buchanan still at Buchanans.”

Like his father, Buchanan finds the world of whisky fascinating, and loves exploring his passion for single malts.

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“I get to pick my old man’s brain, and all it comes down to is to sit down and chat,” he says.

So what special bottle is Buchanan saving?

In 2005, Companions of the Quaich Ontario partnered with the Hudson Bay Company and approached Orkney distillery, Highland Park, to produce a special bottling in honour of their 350th anniversary. It was a perfect connection as in the 1700s, 416 of the 530-man Hudson’s Bay Company workforce in Canada were from Orkney.

The stars aligned and Highland Park released a single cask of 15-year aged, 100% refill Sherry cask, bottled by Milroy’s of Soho. But the problem came when they attempted to ship it over, and the LCBO informed them that they didn’t have a liquor licence, and so could not sell it in Ontario.

“Highland Park only do distillery bottlings and that’s it, they don’t work with anyone else,” Buchanan explains.

“This just happened to be such a historical connection, and to get the

distillery, the bottler, Hudson’s Bay, the importer, and the Companions on board - and then the liquor board says ‘No. You can’t do anything with it in Ontario, you can just give it away!’”

Milroy connected with a distributor who called Buchanan and offered him a sixpack of the special bottling. “We opened it, and lo and behold we got bottle #1 out of 1,600!” he grins. “That never happens when you order limited release whisky, because the whisky maker always, always takes bottle number one.”

And when will Buchanan open the bottle?

“Not in the foreseeable future,” he says, “I did get to try bottle number two, so at least I have been in the fortunate position to sample the whisky, and it is spectacular.” “There’s occasions for everything,” he adds, “and I’ll open it with the old man, that’s for certain.

I wouldn’t be opening it without him around to enjoy it. We have 390 other whiskies people can try, but I’m afraid this one is for private Buchanan consumption.”