Culinaire #4:6 (november 2015) by Culinaire Magazine

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CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 4 NO.6 :: NOVEMBER 2015

OF AUTUM S E C I N P S NG I M R A W

HOT SAUCES HOT DRINKS HOT RECIPES!

Oils and Vinegars | Session Beers | Slow Cooker Recipes | Cellaring Wine

And rave reviews from dinner guests. Liven things up at your next dinner party with a little kimchi or sauerkraut. Adding fermented foods to the menu will not only introduce your guests to new flavours, it will improve their health and enhance your culinary skills too. From better digestion and clear skin to improved immunity and great taste, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to get fermented.

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18 VOLUME 4 / ISSUE #6 NOVEMBER 2015

Features 16

Well Seasoned: The Salt Cellar You don’t have to be a chef or even a great cook to use The Salt Cellar’s products; we can all be seasoned experts! by Mallory Frayn

20 A Fantastic Finishing Touch Flavoured oils and vinegars by Christa Bedwin

24 Offcuts 2016 Behind the scenes at Calgary’s food and beverage men’s charity calendar by Linda Garson

28 Spice Up Your Pantry 4 local hot condiments to try by Dan Clapson

30 All Rise! Court some session beers by David Nuttall

Beyond the Stew Exploring the versatility of the slow cooker by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Classy, Cool and Creative Far more than just curry, Mango Shiva wows with stylish and innovative, plus also authentic, Indian cuisine by Linda Garson

38 5 Classic Cocktails …every home bartender should learn how to make by Rebecca Davis

Find your best: Asian Adventure We’re no longer a ‘meat and potatoes’ city; we have a world of international options – which suits your style? by Dan Clapson, Linda Garson, Diana Ng, Lynda Sea

Departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

Ask Culinaire

41 Picking the Perfect Cellar Dweller 3 local wine experts share their thoughts on cellaring wine by Tom Firth

Book Review

Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!

Soup Kitchen

46 Making the Case Wines to enjoy with friends by Tom Firth

Step-By-Step: Chai Latte

50 Open That Bottle Alida Visbach, President and CEO of Heritage Park by Linda Garson

22 3 Ways With Rice Pudding

On the Cover: Many thanks to Ingrid Kuenzel for our gorgeous front cover photograph, and to Dan Clapson for his art direction and delicious Tandoori Pumpkin Bisque with Cilantro Honey Oil (recipe on page 14, Soup Kitchen).

Letter From The Editor you managed to secure your copy. “It’s a keeper” is the phrase I’ve heard most often last month! My personal favourite is this month’s ‘international cuisine and spice’ issue. I can remember the first Indian restaurant opening in our village in England in the late ’60s, and it’s been a love affair with the food and use of spices ever since for me.

Thanks to everyone for all the great feedback on our October issue, showcasing the Alberta Beverage Awards results. Wow, I’m really thrilled to hear such compliments on the appearance of the magazine, and that so many of you search out this issue and refer to it throughout the year. We printed an extra 2,500 copies of this issue too, to bring us to 17,500 copies, as we ran out last year. I hope

We’re so lucky to have such a diverse range of international cuisines to choose from now in Calgary, it’s a rather different city to the one I arrived in, in 2003, and a fascinating journey to explore the different cultures through their food. Last month there was a dearth of new restaurant openings, but like buses, this month they’ve all come at once! We’ve struggled to find enough space to tell you about so many good-looking and

CORRECTION On page 42 of our October issue, a line was mistakenly added to the name of the Best in Class beer in the Kölsch and Kellerbier category. Früh Kölsch, has no connection to any domestic brewers. The CSPC code listed for the Früh should also read 775544. As well, on page 63, we had a line in the tequila introduction that generated some confusion. The Best in Class Tequila, the Casamigos Blanco Tequila is proudly made in Jalisco, Mexico and not in the United States. Our apologies to Casamigos and Früh! tempting spots, but we’ve managed to fit them all in briefly – watch out as we know of a further six openings before Christmas too! Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

Easy is a beautiful thing.

#stepintoitaly Willow Park 9919 Fairmount Drive SE | italiancentre.ca @italianctrYYC | 403-238-4869 4

CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Commercial Director: Keiron Gallagher 403-975-7177 sales@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Digital Media Editor: Lynda Sea web@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Christa Bedwin Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Rebecca Davis Natalie Findlay Mallory Frayn Renee Kohlman Karen Miller Diana Ng Dave Nuttall Lynda Sea

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Ingrid Kuenzel

Ingrid moved from Germany to Calgary at three years old. Fortunate to spend many trips touring European historical sites, vineyards and breweries, she is fascinated by modern architecture, sampling culinary delights along the way, always with camera in one hand, most often coffee, wine or beer in the other. As a freelance commercial photographer, Ingrid specializes in great food, drink, and the people making it. She’s at ingridkue.com.

< Dan Clapson

Dan Clapson is a food writer and columnist in Calgary. He is a panelist for enRoute Magazine’s “Canada’s Best New Restaurants” awards, and writes regularly for many Canadian outlets including Avenue and Food Network Canada. In fall 2013, he co-founded Eat North, a foodfocused media outlet specializing in Canadian cuisine and the people behind it. Dan loves home cooking as much as dining out; follow his foodie adventures @dansgoodside.

< Natalie Findlay

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. Her food aspirations started at an early age as she baked desserts for her family and friends as soon as she could use a mixer. Natalie’s love of food resulted in her graduating from The Cordon Bleu’s Pastry Program. Over the past 10 years, Natalie has been a pastry chef and cook in hotels and restaurants while managing her own business creating custom-made special occasion cakes.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine. ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

Salutes... Congrats to Vero Bistro!

And to Cococo Chocolatiers

And to all at Pigeonhole!

…who placed 4th in Trip Advisor’s 2015 best restaurants in Canada, with 364 of its 460 reviews listed as excellent, and the only Alberta restaurant on the list!

…who took gold for their Earl Grey Truffle, silver for the Oregano Fusion and 3 bronze awards in the recent Canadian National Chocolate Competition. Way to go Cococo!

...named Best New Restaurant in Canada for 2015 by Air Canada’s enRoute magazine! It’s the third time in the top three for Justin Leboe! Wow!

and Shout Outs... PRLR Lounge

Whitehall

Inspired by prohibition era distillers, this sexy Kensington cocktail lounge is out to raise the level of Calgary’s nightlife with their creative cocktail program. The short menu offers locally sourced ingredients for sharing plates such as Bourbon Candied Bacon, double-smoked in house and topped with Canadian Maple butter. Or try the popular Ploughman’s Lunch, revitalized as a board of aged game meats, pickled quail egg, and fine cheese. Cheers!

Just opening is British chef, Neil McCue’s (of Catch and Oliver & Bonacini, Toronto) new restaurant in the old Il Sogno location. Beautifully refurbished, Whitehall is fresh, light and inviting, and based on the London (UK) dining scene of modern elegance with a casual, unpretentious approach to gourmet food. The menu is a nod to British classics with a little nostalgia; try the Potted Shrimps and Pork Pie, but don’t miss the Braised Beef Cheeks with Salt-Baked Beetroots!

Grate & Barrel Great gourmet grilled cheeses, homemade soups and ketchups - and good beer. That’s what you’ll find at Grate & Barrel in the old Mission Diner spot. And music - country to rock, to Jann Arden – with sandwiches all named after local bands, a fromage-homage! It’s a place to hang out, have good pints and good times.

Made Foods With four locations in Calgary, Made Foods has launched an ambitious project and plans to open 10 stores here and 10 in Vancouver very soon. Offering healthy breakfast, lunch and dinner meals, as well as snacks and smoothies, for busy people with busy lifestyles, ‘Made’ is proving that it is possible to serve food that tastes good, does you good, and yet is convenient and affordable. Yum! 6

Franz Swinton

Blanco Cantina Little sister to Añejo, in the old Brava Bistro location, Blanca is a casual, fun Tex-Mex with a 50/50 wall of 50 rums and 50 tequilas, Big Ass Burritos and a ‘halfy hour’ from 3:00-5:00 pm when all drinks are 50% off! Generous portions of nachos and poutine are ordered from a build-your-own sheet – try ‘The Works’ with every topping! With seasoned professionals like GM Timo Salimaki (The Block), and Bar Manager Franz Swinton (Añejo) at the helm, this is going to be one busy spot!

The Derrick Gin Mill & Kitchen In the ex-Eldorado location on 8th Ave SW, The Derrick celebrates Calgary’s two interests - oil and gas, and ranching. Boasting 27 gins (and featuring 100 soon!) and a build-your-own G & T program, bartenders Savanna Beach and Shelby Goodwin serve up cocktails with names like ‘Fracking Good’, ‘Payday’ and ‘Roughnecks Old Lady’. Open breakfast, lunch and dinner. Don’t miss the Smoked Meat Sandwich, Lamb Pot au Feu and Smoked Beef Tartare, with Gin & Tonic Pie for dessert!

Sweet Lollapalooza And from Edmonton we welcome Brett Roy to Calgary, in the new Gravity Pope building on 17th Avenue SW. Chocolatier extraordinaire, Roy is offering his stunningly handcrafted chocolates, plus fine teas and coffees (and wine too!) in this lovely space with its 18-ft granite counter that that seats 17 people, seven days a week. It’s a great year for Calgary!

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Ask Culinaire by TOM FIRTH

With all the wine classes and educational programs out there, at what point can you call yourself a “Sommelier”?

Well, that is a big question. I’ve been in the wine business almost 20 years and have taken a number of courses from the International Sommelier Guild (ISG), the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), and a bucketful of other programs, and I don’t call myself a sommelier. When I am asked if I’m a “sommelier”, I usually explain that I’ve trained as a sommelier, but I don’t work in the service industry. (Heck, I can barely pour someone else a glass of wine!) The problem is that the role of a sommelier is a wine service position, most often in a restaurant, but also often found at wineries, clubs, and occasionally, in great homes - a Cellar Master, or one who is in charge of maintaining the wine cellar and serving its treasures. More recently, with the rise of specialty wine shops and the general craze for wines, most people

in the wine business and plenty of enthusiastic wine drinkers have some sort of formal wine training. The various schools have different focuses on how they view wine. Most important is to convey the excitement of enjoying and getting the most out of good wine The ISG, for example, has a strong wine service component, while the WSET is a little more… academic, though both are excellent for gaining understanding, and experience in tasting and enjoying wines. Some wine shops or other providers offer wine classes, and generally they are for enthusiasts who want to learn more, and rarely do they have exams or study materials to work on in your spare time.

Sadly, some program providers in the past were “graduating” trained and “certified sommeliers” after only a brief weekend course, so the term can be a mixed bag. I would think that anyone calling themselves a sommelier should have a level of training and experience that they are comfortable discussing the wine list with a customer, or able to recommend a wine in a retail shop with confidence, and be able to explain where the wine came from, what it is made from, and what the drinker should expect from almost any bottle on the premises. The thing I think that is most important for any sommelier, whether in a restaurant, retail shop, or on the street, is to convey the passion and excitement of enjoying and getting the most out of good wine to anyone - whether or not they are a newcomer to wine or the most enthusiastic connoisseur.

Book Reviews A Spicy Touch Family Favourites for Noorbanu Nimji’s Kitchen Noorbanu Nimji and Karen Anderson, 2015

If you love Indian food and want to learn how to cook it at home, A Spicy Touch is most definitely for you. Nimji has been cooking for, and with, her family for 60 years and she is sharing not only her family recipes, but also her experience and kitchen. Working with Karen Anderson (of Calgary Food Tours), the two passionate cooks help you understand the fundamentals, the true colours and textures that make this cuisine so enticing. To start, there is a wonderful glossary of spices used along with their flavour profile. There are recipes for the basic spice mixes and pastes used repeatedly throughout the book, and lists of pantry items (with useful packaging pictures)

by KAREN MILLER

to have on hand. Nimji emphasizes the necessity of being prepared to cook - reading the recipe, preparing ingredients, and understanding how to extract the flavours. Everything starts with spices and their tempering, a process of heating the spices before adding the other ingredients, followed by wonderful step-by-step instructions detailing what to look for through the building of flavour process. Although these may be Nimji’s family favourites, it is clear that Anderson has adopted these for her own family, and provides the reader with helpful hints on today’s concerns of healthier eating, as well as fast preparation. There is even a turmeric-infused chicken soup as a cure for the common cold (no guarantees however!) and their version of pizza, “Pi-naan-za”.

to finish. Although some recipes may seem daunting, some are labelled fast and easy, and all have being prepared as a common thread. So there’s a little reading and a little work ahead, but butter chicken here we come!

The chapters of the book are indeed laid out like an Indian feast from start

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.

Chefs' Tips Tricks! Cooking With Spice by LYNDA SEA photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Spicy food doesn’t always have to equal hot. Playing with spices while cooking can transform virtually any dish with interesting new aromas, kicking up the heat and other flavours while also adding vibrant fragrances and colour. For very different takes on “spice”, these three chefs share their secrets for cooking spicy food and extracting flavours to surprise and delight your palate. Chef Vano Sikov – Bull & Finch Bar At the Bull & Finch Bar, their famous Volcano chicken wings are so hot they require a waiver, and come with their own cautionary note. While chef and owner, Vano Sikov, says the sauce behind his intense tear-inducing, lip-burning chicken wings recipe is bought (he uses Dave’s Gourmet Insanity Hot Sauce as a base), his secret to the scorching flavour is in double-cooking the wings with the sauce to intensify the heat. “We put the chicken wings in the oven until they’re about 50 to 70 percent done, then add the sauce and it goes

back in the oven,” says Chef Sikov. “When you reheat the spices, it gets hotter. Always do a notch less than what you want. You can always add spice but it’s harder to take it out.”

“You can always add spice but it’s harder to take it out”

Sikov says his go-to dried spices for heat are crushed chili peppers, paprika, cayenne and Cajun seasoning. For freshness, they should always be stored away from light and in air-tight containers to help preserve the flavours and aromas.

Vano Sikov

Volcano Chicken Wings 450 g chicken wings and drumsticks salt & pepper ½ cup (120 mL) white vinegar (optional) 50 mL Dave’s Gourmet Total Insanity hot sauce 2 spoons hot chilli peppers, crushed and blended 50 mL Franks Red Hot Sauce

1. Season chicken wings and

drumsticks in a bowl with salt, pepper and olive oil.

2. Cook at 375˚ F for 30-45 minutes. 3. Take out of the oven and put wings into a bowl. Add 50 mL of Dave’s Gourmet Total Insanity hot sauce and Frank’s Red Hot Sauce, then add crushed chili peppers and vinegar.

4. Put wings back in the oven at the Volcano Chicken Wings 10

same temperature as before and cook until desired crispiness.

Chef Vikram Vij

Vij’s Lamb Popsicles with Fenugreek Curry Serves 6

1/4 cup (60 mL) sweet white wine 3/4 cup (180 mL) grainy yellow mustard 1 tsp salt 1 tsp ground black pepper 1.8 Kg French-cut racks of lamb, in chops

“Spices need to be layered”

It seems like no other country uses a wider range of spices than India, so who better to ask about spices than one of North America’s top Indian chefs himself — Vikram Vij of Vij’s in Vancouver. “Spices are to me what notes are to a musician,” he says. “My cloves and cinnamon, ginger and garlic, and spinach sing to me the same way notes sing to a musician.”

pepper in a large bowl.

2. Add lamb and coat well with the

Lamb

Chef Vikram Vij – Vij’s

1. Combine wine, mustard, salt and

marinade. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.

3. For curry sauce, in a large bowl,

combine cream, salt, paprika, cayenne, fenugreek leaves and lemon juice.

4. Heat 3 to 4 Tbs of oil in a medium

pot on medium heat and sauté garlic until golden. Stir in turmeric and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the cream mixture and cook on low to medium heat for about 5 minutes.

Curry sauce

5. Finish lamb by preheating a stove-

4 cups (1 L) whipping cream 1 Tbs salt 1 tsp paprika ½ tsp ground cayenne pepper 1 Tbs dried green fenugreek leaves ¼ cup (60 mL) lemon juice ¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil 3 Tbs finely chopped garlic 1 tsp turmeric

6. Serve hot off the grill. Place 4 to

top cast iron grill or barbeque to high heat. Place on the grill and cook for 2 to 3 minutes per side. 5 lamb chops on each plate. Pour the cream curry over the meat or ladle it into a small bowl to use as a dipping sauce.

Lamb Popsicles with Fenugreek Curry

Spices never lose their flavour over time, so the ‘wow factor’, as Vij calls it, comes from the harmony in how multiple spices come together in the cooking process. “One of the biggest mistakes people make with spice is that they think they should add them all at once,” he says. “Spices need to be layered.” Chef Vij advises to add whole spices first, then ground spices afterwards, explaining that whole spices take a bit longer to break down than ground spices. He says while spicy foods should not be leaving your palate on fire, “by the time you are finished with your meal, you should have a bit of sweat on your forehead and your back. You should be warm from the inside out.” 11

Chorizo Rojo con Papas Tacos Chile Puree 4 chile de arbol peppers 4 guajillo chili peppers 4 chipotle chili peppers 4 ancho chili peppers

1. Bring a small pot of water to a boil.

While the water is coming to a boil, lightly toast chilies in a frying pan over medium heat.

2. Soak the chilies in the hot water for 30 minutes or until softened.

3. Allow to cool, then de-seed, Chef Cody Willis

Chef Cody Willis – Native Tongues Taqueria Mexican food has a reputation for being very spicy — after all, one of the basic ingredients in most dishes is the chili pepper. Chef Cody Willis, owner of Native Tongues Taqueria, describes Mexican food as a very ingredientand technique-driven cuisine. At the restaurant, he uses a chili puree, a combination of four different chili peppers. “We use the chili puree for our chorizo, as a rub or marinade for different proteins and meats, and we add it to salsa roja for a spicy component,” he says. “We even add it to soup for a pozole.”

Depending on the dish, “you can always add in more coconut or cream as those also act as cooling agents.” Lynda Sea is Culinaire’s digital media editor. You’ll never hear her say no to pie, especially if it’s apple. Follow her on Twitter at @lyndasea 12

and pestle. Add the paprika, oregano, chilies in adobo and salt, and grind into a smooth paste.

3. Add the spice mixture, chili puree,

and vinegar to a large mixing bowl with the pork shoulder.

4. Mix thoroughly, and allow to marinade overnight.

“Sweetness helps counteract spiciness”

reserving the soaking liquid.

4. Puree the de-seeded chilies with

the soaking liquid into a thick paste, and season with salt to taste. Chorizo Rojo 1 Kg ground pork shoulder ½ cup (120 mL) chili puree 4 chilies in adobe 1 Tbs oregano 3 Tbs paprika 1 tsp whole cumin 1 tsp whole coriander 1 Tbs whole black pepper ¼ cup (60 mL) vinegar 22 g salt

1. Toast whole cumin, coriander,

and black pepper lightly in a frying pan or skillet. Chorizo Rojo con Papas Tacos

In dried or fresh chili, the seeds are the spiciest part, so remove those first if you don’t want things too spicy, says Chef Willis. If you happen to overspice, make a bigger batch or figure out complementary ingredients to balance it out the spice level. “Sweetness helps counteract spiciness,” he says.

2. Grind the toasted spices in a mortar

What you’ll need: • Fresh tortillas • Diced white onion • Chopped cilantro • Fresh limes • Salsa of your choice • Boiled, cubed potatoes

1. Saute the chorizo over medium high heat until it is cooked 80 percent of the way. Add in the cooked potatoes to warm through.

2. Warm tortillas on a skillet. Fill with Chorizo Rojo con Papas, diced white onion and cilantro.

3. Serve with fresh lime and your favourite salsa.

Look for these 2015 Alberta Beverage Award Winners at your local wine retailer. JUDGE’S SELECTION: Yalumba The Strapper GSM 2012, Yalumba The Guardian 2010 BEST IN CLASS (Grenache): Yalumba Old Bush Vine Grenache 2014 These award winners are part of the Yalumba Samuel’s Garden family of wines, born of old Barossa vines grown from cuttings brought to Australia from the Rhône Valley in the late 1830s. These wines celebrate this direct lineage to Rhône and reflect Yalumba’s dedication to creating wines with regional character, varietal flavour and individual personality. Their roots go all the way back to France but they are firmly planted in Barossa.

WATCH VIDEO

Soup Kitchen story and photography by DAN CLAPSON

’Tis the season for squash and root vegetables to make their triumphant return to our tables. Now that the beautiful red, orange and copper shades have faded from our city, leaving us with blankets of white and skinny tree branches that seem to shiver in the wind, we can appreciate a warming bowl of soup more than ever.

These two simple recipes work with warming autumn spices and aromatics like cloves, cinnamon, star anise and ginger, to create something truly worth spooning into. So, grab a pot, get it on that stove of yours and let’s get started!

Masala Potato and Spinach Soup 1. Place the first 7 ingredients in

mortar and pestle, and grind into a fine paste. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.

2. Heat canola oil in a large pot on medium-high heat. Once hot, add spice paste and cook until fragrant, about 2-3 minutes.

3. Add onion and garlic to the pot

Serves 6 Total cook time 45 minutes 3 black peppercorns 1 whole clove 1 whole star anise 1 tsp freshly grated ginger 1 tsp sea salt ¼ tsp coriander seed ¼ tsp fennel seed 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil 1 yellow onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 14

5 red potatoes, 3 peeled, 2 unpeeled, 1 cm cubed 2 serrano peppers, seeds removed and diced 6 cups (1.5 L) vegetable broth 3 cups (750 mL) water 1 bay leaf 2 tsp (30 mL) honey 1 tsp (15 mL) lemon juice 4 cups fresh spinach To taste salt and pepper

and cook for 10 minutes, stirring regularly. If onions begin to brown, add a splash of water to the pot to help break up any brown bits. Next, add the 3 peeled and diced potatoes to the pot along with the vegetable broth, and let cook until potatoes are fork tender, about 10-12 minutes.

4. Transfer to blender or use an

immersion blender to puree potato mixture until very smooth. Add remaining ingredients and cook for another 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Tandoori Pumpkin Bisque with Cilantro Honey Oil Serves 5-6 Total cook time 50 minutes

Soup: 2 cups (480 mL) roasted pumpkin puree 6 cups (1.5 L) chicken stock 2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste 2½ tsp tandoori masala 3 cloves garlic 2.5 cm piece fresh ginger, peeled ½ cup (120 mL) white wine 1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar To taste salt and pepper

Cilantro honey oil: 1 bunch fresh cilantro, washed, ends trims and roughly chopped ¼ cup (60 mL) water 1 Tbs (15 mL) honey 1 Tbs (15 mL) lemon juice ½ teaspoon salt approx ¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil ½ cup pumpkin seeds, roughly chopped

1. For the soup, place the first 6

ingredients in a large pot on mediumhigh heat and bring to a simmer, stirring well until everything is incorporated. Reduce to medium heat and let simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Add white wine and apple

cider vinegar and continue to cook for 15 minutes.

3. Remove garlic cloves and ginger,

season to taste with salt and pepper, and leave on low heat until ready to serve.

4. For cilantro honey oil, place all

6. Ladle soup out into bowls, top with

a couple of spoons of cilantro honey oil and chopped pumpkin seeds, and serve immediately.

ingredients except canola oil into a blender or food processor, and puree until very smooth.

5. Slowly pour in the oil while

Transfer to a small bowl and set aside until ready to assembly.

continuing to puree until mixture emulsifies and lightens slightly in colour.

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside

Immerse in the History Indulge in the Food

www.bvrrestaurant.com RancheYYC

Well Seasoned: The Salt Cellar

by MALLORY FRAYN photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Salt is as polarizing an ingredient as any. All good cooks or chefs will emphasize the importance of adding enough of it to ensure a dish is wellseasoned, but the average person seems to be dissuaded from using too much in fear that elevated sodium levels cause health concerns. “You can never have too much salt as long as you are the one doing the salting,” says Virginia Marion, owner of The Salt Cellar, a local company dedicated to sourcing and selling a variety of flavoured salts and salt blends. She started the company in 2010, after having worked in restaurants, and taught culinary education for several decades. “I was in Edmonton and I picked up a jar of salt. It was a different blend than I had ever seen before so I started researching it,” she recalls. From there

Marion began thinking about creating her own product, building a website, and brainstorming where she would sell it. She was just about to take the next step and open up a bank account for her new business when she was hit by a truck, leaving her with a myriad of internal injuries and broken bones. “At that point, the business was the only thing that kept me going,” Marion admits. “I knew that I could either lie there and feel sorry for myself or forge ahead. I’ve always been a fighter and since then, the business has taken on a life of its own.”

Marion learned early on that educating consumers about salt would be vital to her business’s growth and success, just as salt is vital to human survival. “It was difficult to sell salt to people at first,” she says, “From a health standpoint, many people believe it is bad for you.” Leveraging her background in education (she has a Master’s degree and taught cooking in high school for 15 years) has been a huge benefit for her in promoting her products. By researching and being comfortable to inform on her salty subject, she is slowly getting the word out that people don’t need to fear salt as much as they think they should. “All of the salts I sell are hand-harvested and have a high mineral content,” Marion adds, “Plus you don’t need to use them in large quantities to get the flavour you’re looking for.” Initially, she brought in infused salts and smoked salts to sell to her customers. From there she started packaging them into kits with recipe booklets. Now she offers

Virginia Marion

everything from the ever-popular black truffle salt, to 12 different homemade salt blends, like her best-selling lime pepper flavour. Whether you use it to season chicken or fish, or to liberally sprinkle on popcorn, citrus and pepper is always a winning combination. If you are looking for something more “meaty”, try Marion’s Canadian bacon blend that just happens to be made without bacon! “I didn’t want to use real bacon because I knew it would go rancid,” she says. Instead she experimented with a blend of maple sugar, smoked salt, and smoked pepper, until she came up with the right proportions to simulate the flavour of bacon. It’s the pumpkin spice mentality, i.e. the spices associated with pumpkin without any actual pumpkin. The Salt Cellar’s newest salt blend, lemon dill, is already in high demand and there are always more flavours and

blends in the works. Starting out by selling her products in farmers’ markets back in 2011 has allowed Marion to connect directly with consumers, not only educating them on the benefits of using good salt, but learning what new products they would like to see, so there is never a shortage of ideas.

TWO

AWARD - WINNING

BEERS

Boutique markets are still a significant revenue generator for The Salt Cellar, but Marion has since expanded to stores and restaurants as well. Bite Groceteria in Inglewood supplies a huge variety of her products, as well as Mountain Mercato in Canmore. The Salt Cellar has plenty of vendors outside of Alberta too, in British Columbia and Ontario. You don’t have to be a chef or even a great cook to use products from The Salt Cellar “I started getting into stores bit by bit,” Virginia says, “Now I’ve had stores calling me out of the blue requesting my products.” She has even shipped samples off to the Yukon, Nevada, and Georgia for people wanting to taste what she has to offer. As for what’s next in store for Virginia and The Salt Cellar, keep your eyes out for her “Salt Rocks!” cookbook, which she’s aiming to have ready for the Christmas markets. Each page is dedicated to a specific salt and will be paired with two recipes, as well as substitution ideas if you want to get creative. “But you don’t have to be a chef or even a great cook to use products from The Salt Cellar,” Marion stresses. Her salts are intended for everyone, and it’s clear from her passion for teaching that she means it. Whether you use them to finish pizza or to season your eggs, once you’re hooked, The Salt Cellar will be a staple in your spice cabinet. Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat

FROM COLOGNE GERMANY

fruh.ca

403-775-4382

increasing waste and toxin excretion. These spices are also great for the respiratory tract. In other words, not only is this hot drink darn delicious, it’s also full of good things to keep us healthy this winter when pesky germs abound. I used a mortar and pestle to bruise the spices before placing them in a saucepan. No mortar and pestle? No problem. Just place the spices in a resealable plastic bag and whack with a skillet or a sturdy coffee mug. Simmer those spices along with some milk and water for about 10 minutes. Add black tea (preferable a good quality Darjeeling which you’ll be able to find at any tea shop) and let it steep another ten minutes. Strain into mugs and sweeten as you wish. Unlike the sickly sweet Chai lattés in many coffee shops, when you make your own you can control the sweetness. I like using honey, but brown sugar is yummy too.

Step By Step: Homemade Chai Latté story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

With winter well on its way (sorry, I know), it’s always lovely to wrap cold hands around a steaming mug of deliciousness. Chai latté is a favourite around here, and with a simple 20-minute recipe, who needs a barista to make it? Keep that money in your pocket and save for the holidays. 18

Or better yet, take a trip to somewhere beachy in March, when you’ve had just enough of winter and spring has yet to arrive. The origins of Chai are steeped in Indian history and the ancient medicinal philosophy of Ayurveda. Traditionally, each family would have their own Chai recipe based on the constitutions of family members. The spice blend of cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, black pepper, ginger, turmeric, and star anise, contains medicinal and healing properties such as relaxing the digestive tract, elevating the metabolism, and

Not only is this hot drink darn delicious, it’s also full of good things to keep us healthy this winter when pesky germs abound One unexpected, yet lovely and appropriately seasonal bonus for making Chai lattés at home? Your house will smell like an Indian spice market. All of those sweet, warming scents can definitely help warm a person up on a chilly fall day! This drink is definitely a winter libation for the senses. With each sip I can instantly feel the robust spices working their magic on me. Maybe cooler weather isn’t so bad after all!

CAMPOFIORIN, THE ORIGINAL. Stovetop Chai Latté

Fifty years of history in every drop.

Makes 2 large mugs or 4 small cups. Total prep and cook time 25 minutes 6 whole cardamom pods 10 whole cloves 6 black peppercorns 1 whole star anise 2 cinnamon sticks 4 cm piece fresh ginger, sliced 2 slices of fresh turmeric or a generous pinch of ground turmeric 2 cups (480 mL) whole milk 4 bags of good quality black tea (preferably Darjeeling) brown sugar or honey (to sweeten to taste)

1. Place cardamom, cloves,

peppercorns and star anise in a resealable plastic bag and crush with a heavy skillet. Alternatively place these spices in a mortar and grind with a pestle, just until spices are bruised.

2. Place these in a saucepan along with cinnamon sticks, ginger, turmeric, milk and 2 cups (480 mL) water. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to medium low, partially cover and gently simmer for 10 minutes.

3. Remove from heat, add tea bags, cover and let steep for 10 minutes.

4. Strain into cups and sweeten to

taste. Sip and discover true happiness. Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club. Also, check out her blog www.sweetsugarbean.com

In 1964, the gentle hillsides of Verona saw the birth of Campofiorin, and with it a new category of Veneto wines made with grape-drying techniques inspired by the making of Amarone. Fifty years later, Masi’s rich, friendly and cosmopolitan “Supervenetian” has become a classic, one of the best-loved Italian wines in the world. Following so many years of widespread success, let’s raise a glass to the inimitable Campofiorin.

www.masi.it The Venetian art of winemaking A CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EC REGULATIONS N. 1308/13

A Fantastic Finishing Touch: Flavoured Oils and Vinegars by CHRISTA BEDWIN

The difference between good food and exquisite food is all in the details – a perfectly ripe tomato, fresh-made pasta, and the hand of a master chef with just the right amount of spices… or simple, fresh ingredients served with nothing more than a perfect olive oil and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. Five years ago, finding gourmet oils and vinegars here was not easy, but Calgary now has four companies offering exquisite oils and vinegars from all over the world, either pure and fresh, or flavoured with herbs, spices, and essential oils. You can also find these fresh, imported goods at most of our farmers’ markets. Keep some stocked in your kitchen cabinets and it will be easy to add a unique touch to dinner any night of the week. Calgary now has four companies offering exquisite oils and vinegars from all over the world Wondering what to start with? Gord Fontaine, of Soffrito’s, says that you will start to wonder what you have been eating your whole life until now, if you try a blood orange agrumato olive oil with cranberry pear white balsamic vinegar on a salad or even a bit of bread. “Bright, fresh, sunshine-y, big happy flavours on a warm day,” he says. A way to bring summer back to your mouth this winter? Why not! Here are a few things to keep in mind when you’re picking out artisan oil and vinegars in Calgary. 20

Buy local, buy fresh Fontaine, owner of Soffritto’s Oil + Vinegar bar in Fish Creek Village, says that he just loves to see Albertan faces when people discover the taste difference that freshly imported olive oil can make. Olive oil that you buy on the shelves in a typical grocery store might be two to seven years old. But Gord knows people who supply him with oil from California as soon as three weeks after it’s pressed, and Australian oil as soon as five weeks after pressing. Ask about the crush date when you go in to buy olive oil anywhere, he says. It’s the most important aspect if you want prime flavour and quality.

Tuscan Herb Olive Oil is Fontaine’s everyday go-to to cook or finish with. Pizza, Greek salads, and pasta all enjoy a little touch of it with his favourite Peach White Balsamic Vinegar, which he says is crisp but a little sharp in acidity. He says this idea from Food Network Canada’s David Rocco is one of his favourites:

Spaghetti ala caprese 1. Take basil leaves, fresh mozzarella*, and ripe red tomatoes

2. Add hot fresh pasta, extra virgin olive oil, and a little hot pasta water

3. Drizzle with garlic olive oil and basil

olive oil – Fontaine says that the oil tastes so intensely good that you can nearly get away without using any real basil (but he wouldn’t – it’s better with the greens in the dish).

*(such as Calgary’s own fiore di latte) 2116, 380 Canyon Meadows Drive SE, and Calgary Farmers’ Market soffritto.ca

Other options for oils and vinegars

Health starts with quality In West Springs, Bruce and Courtney Gillis of Blue Door, say that they enjoy educating customers about the health benefits of great olive oil at their tasting room. They love to share their knowledge of what they call a “fascinating golden elixir,“ and have hosted many seminars and workshops for the community. Bruce says that whether it’s taste, health benefit, or ability to cook with the oils, it all comes back to the quality of the oil you start with. Bruce’s favourite flavoured olive oil at Blue Door is their Rosemary-infused Olive Oil, paired with Neapolitan Herb Balsamic Vinegar. Courtney’s two favourites are the Garlic Infused Olive Oil and Maple Balsamic Vinegar. 8561 8A Ave SW and 14555 Symons Valley Road NW bluedoorcalgary.com

Oliv has tasting rooms all over Canada, from Toronto to Moose Jaw. Visit olivtastingroom.ca for other locations, information, and recipes. Their Calgary shop is on Kensington Road. Oil & Vinegar stores in Alberta are the first stores for this company here in Canada. This company started in the UK and has spread to 12 countries so far. Calgary has stores in Willow Park and TD Square. See oilvinegar.com for mouth-watering photos and recipes.

It all comes back to the quality of the oil you start with

On Tap in Okotoks, ontapov.ca, Bragg Creek Oil & Vinegar, and Banff Oil & Vinegar Market offer you three other local proprietors of oil and vinegar to try the next time you’re on a road trip. Christa Bedwin is a travelling writer and editor. She has two cats, one son, and many worthy adventures under her belt.

Definition: Agrumato, or fused, olive Tasting Experiences: All of the oils are made by pressing fresh whole fruits, herbs, or chilli peppers together with the olives right in the press.

Infused oils, by contrast, are made by storing the oil in containers with the various flavouring agents. Vinegars can also be fused or infused.

stores listed in this article offer in-store tasting of products before you buy. If you would like a tasting event for a party or get-together, Soffritto’s will bring one to you. Get creative! There’s so much to learn and enjoy.

UNIQUE WINE & SPIRITS BOUTIQUE RIGHT IN THE HEART OF DOWNTOWN CALGARY

228 Riverfront Ave SW Calgary, AB

www.riverfrontwines.com TEL: 403.475 7455

Chai Rice Pudding

Ways to Spice Up

rice pudding story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

The humble arborio rice is short, white, and slightly oval, however once gently coaxed out of its firm outer shell, this rice delights all with its rich and creamy consistency. The arborio rice is named after a town in Italy, Arborio, in the Po Valley where it was originally grown. The trait that arborio rice is most famous for is its creaminess, as well as its ability to remain chewy after cooking, which comes from a slight flaw in the grain’s genetics. As the rice grain comes to maturity, the core deforms which causes the centre to remain firmer than the outer shell when cooked. Thanks Mother Nature! Arborio rice undergoes less milling than ordinary long grain rice and, therefore, retains more of its natural starch content. If you haven’t cooked with arborio rice before, note that the liquid to rice ratio is more in the range of 6:1

versus about 1.25:1 for long grain rice. Arborio rice also likes a lot of attention. While long grain rice is happy to cook on its own, arborio rice enjoys being gently stirred while you slowly add liquid a cup at a time. Here we will use the risotto technique, and sweeten it up a bit. Arborio rice makes fantastic rice pudding and as an added benefit; it’s gluten free and very easy to make. Rice pudding can also be made ahead of time, you get to control the sweetness and flavour, and it can be frozen; so no excuses. Enjoy!

Chai Rice Pudding Serves 2 - 3

This rich and creamy dessert tickles your tastebuds with the warming spice of chai. 125 g arborio rice 2 cups (500 mL) water 2 black tea bags ½ cup (125 mL) whole milk 50 g honey 1 cinnamon stick 2 whole anise pods 6 whole cardamom pods 10 black peppercorns, cracked 3 bay leaves 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped garnish candied ginger, finely chopped

Arborio rice makes fantastic rice pudding and as an added benefit; it’s gluten free and very easy to make

Pumpkin Spice Rice Pudding Serves 2 - 3

Serves 2 - 3 125 g arborio rice 1⅓ cups (325 mL) water 60 g brown sugar 5 g ground cinnamon 2.5 g ground ginger pinch allspice pinch nutmeg 150 g pumpkin puree ½ cup (125 mL) whole milk 1 vanilla bean garnish candied pumpkin seeds

1. In a medium saucepan combine 1. In a medium saucepan, bring the

water to boil. Add the honey, cinnamon, anise, cardamom, black pepper, bay leaves and vanilla bean, and reduce to a simmer to steep for 10 minutes.

water, milk, brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, nutmeg, and vanilla bean. Place pot over medium heat, stirring frequently, until heated through. Reduce the heat to low and set aside.

2. Place rice in a medium size pot over 2. Add the tea bags to the pot, increase medium heat. Slowly add 1 cup (250 the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the milk. Reduce the heat to low, strain out the flavourings.

mL) of liquid at a time gently stirring until the liquid has been absorbed before adding the next.

3. Place rice in a medium size pot over

last addition of liquid. The whole process should take approximately 45 minutes, until the pudding is thick and creamy and the rice is tender with a slight bite.

medium-high heat. Slowly add 1 cup (250 mL) of liquid at a time, gently stirring frequently but not consistently until the liquid has been absorbed before adding the next. This results in the rice becoming creamier with each addition of liquid.

4. The whole process should take

approximately 45 minutes, until the pudding is thick and creamy and the rice is tender with a slight bite. Spoon into serving bowls and top with the candied ginger.

Saffron and Coconut Milk Rice Pudding

3. Add the pumpkin puree during the

4. Spoon into serving bowls and

garnish with candied pumpkin seeds. Note: If you can’t find arborio rice, you can make these recipes with medium or short-grain rice to some success, but it won’t be quite as memorable.

The beautiful yellow, gold colour of the delicate saffron threads makes this an unexpected and vibrant dessert option. 125 g arborio rice 1¼ cups (300 mL) water 1 cup (250 mL) coconut milk 50 g sugar 1 vanilla bean, split, scraped pinch saffron threads, approximately 1 Tbs garnish dried cherries or cranberries soaked in warm port or brandy garnish toasted coconut

1. In a medium saucepan on medium

heat, combine water, coconut milk, sugar, vanilla bean and saffron threads until hot. Reduce the heat to low, strain out the saffron threads and set aside.

2. Place the rice in a medium size

pot over medium-high heat. Slowly add 1 cup (250 mL) of liquid at a time gently stirring until the liquid has been absorbed before adding the next. The whole process should take approximately 45 minutes, until the pudding is thick and creamy and the rice is tender with a slight bite.

3. Spoon into serving bowls, top with

toasted coconut and dried cherries and a drizzle of port.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes. 23

Michael Allemeier

Dwayne Ennest

Duncan Ly

Offcuts 2016:

YYC Food Crew Stripped Down by LINDA GARSON photography by JEREMY FOKKENS

“Offcuts 2016”, a calendar supporting Brown Bagging For Calgary’s Kids, featuring 12 of Calgary’s well-known food and beverage men, is released this month. Kevin Kent, of Knifewear, organized this fun project and covered the printing costs. “Last year, friends of mine created a charity calendar (much like a fireman’s calendar) that raised money for Edmonton’s Food Bank. They sold out of their 1,000 copies in just three weeks,” explains Kent. “I loved the idea and decided to create a charity calendar for Calgary. We thought there should be some humour in the calendar because we are food men, not men usually known for fit physiques.” The calendars can be purchased at all the locations of the ‘models’, and at a price of only $20, one calendar will provide 20 school lunches (BBFCK feeds about 2,500 kids a day). Jeremy Fokkens donated his time and talents to the project, and kindly let us have outtakes from the shoots. We 24

caught up with six of the team to find out the stories behind the calendar.

Q: Why did you agree to be photographed stripped down? Michael Allemeier: It sounded like a brilliant way of raising awareness and funds for a very important Calgary charity. Plus, it sounded like a lot of fun to be part of a project with peers I respect. “I could not believe that a city like Calgary had this kind of need, so I jumped at the chance to help.” Dwayne Ennest: The main reason I did the calendar was because I heard that Brown Bagging for Calgary’s Kids feeds 2,500 children a day. I could not believe that a city like Calgary had this kind of need, so I jumped at the chance to help.

Jesse Willis: I initially agreed to be a part of the calendar because Kevin is very persistent and persuasive. Once I heard that funds would be going to such a great cause and got the list of some of the other participating “Off Cuts” the deal was sealed.

Q: How did you prepare for the photo shoot? MA: Both my sons are involved in Mixed Korean Martial Arts. I asked their Sensi to help put together a training program to augment my swimming routine. I feel pretty good about the training, but it was only for a few months. DE: I did nothing to prepare as I felt a real take on us as chefs was the way to go, and we just had a little fun in the approach.

Cam Dobranski

GS: We actually worked almost the entire night erecting the mountain of Red Rage beer cans, then when we were JUST finishing… half of the wall came crashing down and we had to start all over. The work was DEFINITELY worth it I think, however most people won’t notice it, they’ll notice that it’s actually NOT a white shirt I’m wearing… that’s my farmer tan, ha ha. JW: I really liked that the calendar showcased real guys in their own skin. In the food/restaurant/beverage industry, we are constantly working to find a balance in enjoying the food/wine we love while keeping our love handles and cholesterol levels in check. We may not all have washboard abs, but we are all passionate and love what we do.

Q: Why did you choose your setting to be photographed in? MA: As a swimmer, I love the water. Plus, I am a huge advocate of sustainable seafood and awareness programs like Oceanwise. Standing in the Bow River, waste deep with only hip-waders and a 21 lb wild spring salmon for a two hour photo shoot might not be everyone’s idea of fun, but the laughter never stopped. I shocked many early morning joggers as I yelled out “big fish” as my phrase to create huge energy for my shot! DE: We choose Mona the cow, as we wanted it to speak of open range with a little tongue in cheek. PL: We shot this in the basement of the Simmons building. A couple of employees accidentally became scarred for life when they saw me in tight pinkies.

JW: Jeremy had the idea that we should replicate our Vine Arts mascot “Thaddeus”, an old-time strongman that travels on a penny farthing and always carries a bottle of wine. While I couldn’t quite match his moustache or pecs, we decided I should balance and pour a glass of wine from a decanter. This was no easy feat, but after a number of takes (and a splash or two of red wine on the floor) we got the shot!

Graham Sherman Pierre_Lammielle

The ‘models’: Michael Allemeier (MA) Chef Dwayne Ennest (DE) Big Fish, Open Range Kevin Kent Knifewear, Kent of Inglewood Pierre Lamielle (PL) Cookbook author/illustrator, Food On Your Shirt Graham Sherman (GS) Tool Shed Brewing Jesse Willis (JW) Vine Arts

Jesse Willis

Jean Francois Beeroo Charcut, Charbar

Aviv Fried

Cam Dobranksi Container Bar, Winebar, Brasserie Kensington Aviv Fried Sidewalk Citizen Duncan Ly Chef Rogelio Herrera Alloy Phil Robertson and Sebastian Sztabzyb Phil and Sebastian 25

Classy, Cool and Creative: Mango Shiva by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

When you think of going for an Indian meal, what image comes to mind? Flocked wallpaper, pungent curry smells, oval stainless steel serving dishes, and sitar music? You can still find spots like that without even trying, but if that’s your impression then you’re in for a surprise when you walk through Mango Shiva’s doors – this stylish, classy restaurant has an Indian flair that is uniquely its own. Back in 2002, and inspired by chefs/ restaurateurs like Vikram Vij, Kam Dhillon had the idea that Indian restaurants didn’t have to be run of the mill, that they could be exciting and innovative, with cool food in a contemporary setting – that’s the vision he sold his family anyway, and they bought it... “At the time we did a restaurant makeover on a place in Penny Lane,” 26

Mango Shiva’s menus have always been an adventure he says. “Friends of mine owned it, and I thought ‘hey, what a great location.’ If only we did a quick fluff and tart on it, we could have a unique restaurant. I painted, dad laid the tile, granny did the upholstery, and the rest provided

moral support with splatters of worry and caution.” Ever the optimist, Dhillon continues, “I’m kind of like Sonny in the Grand Marigold Hotel. I feel sorry for my family because my naive optimism can be a force to reckon with sometimes. I can’t imagine it any other way though!” In 2007, Mango Shiva was displaced by development, and the family relocated to the current location on Stephen

Avenue. That’s when Dhillon was really able to let his imagination run wild. “It’s a beautiful room, even when I am away from the space and come back to it, it can be breathtaking, and I’m sorry for my lack of modesty here,” he says. “It has an exotic, timeless quality that really takes you away.” I think we’d all agree with him; the dim lighting, candles on every table, mirrors, padded swivel captain’s chairs at the bar, and plenty of exposed brick and natural wood, all combine to create the sexy, warm and inviting space they occupy now. Calgary’s food culture has evolved over the last 10 years, and Dhillon believes that social media and the internet are the driving forces behind it. “We have so much inspiration always available,” he says. “So many restaurants and so many celebrity chefs, and even celebrity bartenders and servers. I think over time Mango Shiva has discovered that the best food is simply well prepared, honestly wholesome, and genuinely authentic.” “You can’t imagine how hard it can be to find music for a contemporary Indian restaurant!”

Masala Dosa (South Indian rice flour crepe), and Butter Chicken Waffles, are a rare find in Indian restaurants.” You’re not likely to find the lip-smacking Curried Duck Bene “deep”, with fenugreek hollandaise and cardamom biscuits, in too many other places either! New menu items that have become very popular include Pakora Fish Tacos, and Pakistani Biryani - a very traditional dish of layered rice, spices, and meat steamed together in a dish sealed with bread, and served with mint yogurt.

Mango Shiva’s menus have always been an adventure, and an exploration of Indian subcontinent cuisine without being pinned down to one area and style. Mainstays like Coconut Curried Calamari (oh yum, it’s making me hungry just thinking about it!), Baked Samosas, and Fenugreek Curried Lamb have been around since the beginning, but Dhillon, his brother Neil, and chef Kirin are constantly creating new menus, balancing experimental dishes with more authentic ones. “Many dishes aren’t found on other Indian menus in Calgary,” Dhillon explains. “For example, the seafood curries on our menu…or stuffed breast of chicken, or fillet of salmon. Also our entire weekend brunch menu including

Chef Kirin and Neil Dhillon

Mango Shiva also set themselves apart with a wine list that changes seasonally, and their innovative cocktail list, honed by resident bartender, Prasad, and resident ‘bar star’, brother Neil. Favourites right now are Kama Sutra and Bollywood 75. Running an Indian restaurant in Calgary isn’t without its challenges, and Dhillon has to consider things that other restaurants might not even think of. “You can’t imagine how hard it can be to find music for a contemporary Indian restaurant! Not too Bollywood, you can’t eat to Bhangra music, not to yogic, not techno music, not Ravi Shankar or anything else that will put you to sleep, not chanting prayer music, not Taylor Swift, not a lot of things,” he laughs. “Its an important part of the overall ambiance, so we play music by contemporary artists that has an Indian or international feel to it - down tempo lounge music at lunch (good for business meetings), and loungey Indian music at dinner, never too loud.” About the perennial problem of downtown parking, Dhillon says, “Curry and downtown parking - sometimes a hard sell when I’m talking to some people in the city.”But they cleverly get round it with free parking at Banker’s Hall after 6:00pm! 27

Spice Up Your Pantry:

4 Local Hot Condiments To Try by DAN CLAPSON

Spice up your life using local flare with these four great condiments that are produced right here in Calgary. Use them sparingly though, or be prepared to feel the burn. Ranking on the Culinaire heat scale: 4/10

King’s Restaurant – Heavenly Hot Sauce

$7.50 for 250 mL daveshotpepperjelly.com

Oil may not be doing so well as of late, but this edible homage to one of Alberta’s main exports definitely packs some heat. Made with a mix of peri-peri peppers, habaneros, jalapenos, chipotles with a mix of spices, vinegar, brown sugar and other secret ingredients, Alberta Crude is definitely not for the faint of heart.

King’s is practically famous in this city for their wor wonton soup, a bowl filled to the brim with noodles, veggies, barbecue pork and wontons in a broth that’s just hot enough to warm you up on those extra chilly days and just salty enough to cure a hangover should you find yourself with one. Having said that, this soup is not complete without a healthy spoonful or two of their homemade chilli oil. When you’re paying for your bill, take a bottle home with you to use on anything from soup to salad dressings and more.

Ranking on the Culinaire heat scale: 9/10

Ranking on the Culinaire heat scale: 7/10

$4.50 for 57 mL hungryvolcano.com

$8.99 for 375 mL wontonking.com

Hungry Volcano – Alberta Crude Dave’s Hot Pepper Jelly – Cranberry Jalapeno Jelly Cranberry sauce may be the condiment of the holiday season, but that’s not to say that it can’t get a little makeover. Dave offers a long list of hot pepper jellies, all with varying heat levels, but this combination of cranberry and jalapeno is perfectly complementary to a turkey dinner or dolloped on top of some warm brie and crackers. Try slathering some onto bread when you’re assembling a grilled cheese sandwich for something extra life-changing. 28

NOW AVAILABLE AT YOUR LOCAL LIQUOR STORE Eats of Asia – Chogo sauce The popular Asian street vendor in the Crossroads Market is known for its delicious food from bao to bowls of ramen with homemade noodles and a lot more. Now, owner/chef Jay del Corro has come up with a signature hot sauce made with gochujang (a fermented hot pepper paste popular in Korean cuisine), roasted sesame seeds with a few other choice “secret” ingredients and sweetened up slightly for a sauce that’s spicy, smoky and sweet. Try it on your scrambled eggs in the morning, with roasted chicken or even on some leftover cold pizza for a midnight snack. Ranking on the Culinaire heat scale: 5.5/10 $4 for 110 g facebook.com/eatsofasia

Here’s the explanations to our heat scale ratings: Am I eating ketchup?

Nothing, but a sprinkling of cayenne

Oh yeah, now I feel a little somethin’

A little heat, but nothing to make you sweat

Definitely waking up the taste buds

A lingering heat

Now we’re getting somewhere

The perfect definition of spicy!

Holy chilli peppers, Batman. This is hot!

It burns! I need a glass of milk ASAP!

Please Enjoy Responsibly.

All Rise! Court Some Session Beers by DAVID NUTTALL

“…..spending four days on the tarmac at Luton airport on a five-day package tour with nothing to eat but dried Watney’s sandwiches and you can’t even get a drink of Watney’s Red Barrel because you’re still in England and the bloody bar closes every time you’re thirsty and there’s nowhere to sleep and the kids are crying and vomiting and breaking the plastic ash-trays…..” – Monty Python, Travel Agent Sketch Ah, the not-so-glory days of archaic British liquor laws driving both the locals and tourists crazy. The now defunct legislation restricted pub opening times to two daily “sessions”, from 11:00 am to 3:00 pm, and from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm. Evidently, this would allow patrons to drink several of the lowalcohol English ales and still manage to get back to work - or maybe get home without stumbling into the local constabulary. Whatever the reason, these beers became known as session beers, and even though they have been around for hundreds of years, only recently have they become the “new” darling of the craft brewing industry. Technically, any low-alcohol beer can be called “sessionable”. There is no one style or set definition for this beer group. However, there is a general consensus that these beers stay below 5% ABV, with some even lower than 4% ABV, yet still have enough of a malt/ hop balance to provide a nice flavour 30

experience without the higher alcohol of regular IPAs and their ilk. In a classic case of “what is old is new again,” craft breweries began brewing session beers in the last year or so. Many are low-alcohol IPAs, called India Session Ales (ISAs) or session IPAs, and some are resurrections of the classic English styles.

Only recently have they become the “new” darling of the craft brewing industry

Now, what these beers aren’t called, are “light” beers. These creations of the 1970s and 1980s took the standard American lager and lowered its alcohol and calories (and some say, its flavour) to make some of the beer world’s biggest sellers.

20% off Le Creuset (Promotion valid November thru December , 2015)

Located in historic Inglewood 1331 - 9th Ave SE, Calgary, AB 403.532.8222 savourfinefoods.com

Because the “Big Breweries” basically own this style, craft breweries have long eschewed it, often going in the opposite direction. While it’s all well and good to crank the beer volume to 11, man cannot live by high alcohol alone, so the pendulum has now swung back the other way. The subtlety of a well-made, low-alcohol beer that doesn’t taste watered down, yet has the hop spiciness or the malt backbone of its established European cousins, proved to be a challenge the craft brewer couldn’t resist. There are many ways to create greattasting low-alcohol beers. Obviously, using special yeasts that produce lower alcohol brews is one. Another method is by dry hopping. This process involves adding hops very late to the boil, or even after the wort has cooled. That way, you get much of the hop flavour and aroma, with little of the bitterness. It is often said anybody can brew a “Big Alcoholic Hop Monster.” It takes skill and technique to make a refined, understated, yet flavourful brew. Every month, more session beers of all styles are hitting our market. If you like a beer with some flavour, but without all the alcohol, try some. Listed below are a few, many of them brand new creations, and all are below 5% ABV.

From All Over Fuller’s London Pride, England (4.7% ABV) – While ubiquitous in their homeland, very few of the original low-alcohol English Pale Ales make it to Alberta. Amber coloured and full of caramel flavours, with just enough UK hops for a tart finish. CSPC +504688, $5, 500 mL bottle Granville Island Two Tides ISA, B.C. (4.6%) - An amber coloured ale full of Citra hops, with more malt sweetness than you’d expect. 35 IBUs. CSPC +772466, $16, 6 pack

Flying Monkeys Genius Of Suburbia ISA, Ontario (3.8%) – A wheat ale with Centennial and Amarillo hops giving it a citrus-y flavour and 52 IBUs. CSPC +773371, $17, 6 pack Central City Red Racer ISA, B.C. (4.0%) – With only Mosaic hops and three malts, this 40 IBU amber beer has more caramel sweetness and a subdued hoppiness than most ISAs. CSPC +764047, $24, 12 pack

Drink Local

New Belgium Slow Ride Session IPA Colorado, USA (4.5%) - Dry hopping eight different hops provides the fruity flavour, with a very light body and colour. 40 IBUs. CSPC +771684, $39, 12 pack cans

Village Maiden (4.6%) – A crisp tasting, unfiltered ale full of citrus aroma and flavour from six hops, added at different times throughout the brewing process. Refreshing, light, and 46 IBUs. CSPC +769790, $16, 6 pack

North Coast Puck Petite Saison California, USA (4.0%) - With Pils and wheat malt plus saison yeast, the dry hopping give this golden ale a flowery, yet spicy nose and flavour. CSPC +771046, $16, 4 pack

Big Rock Warthog (4.5%) – Big Rock’s standard Englishstyle mild ale has been rebranded to accentuate its heritage. Has a malty backbone, full of caramel and toffee notes. CSPC +761745, $16, 6 pack

Fernie Slingshot Session IPA, B.C. (4.5%) – The Mosaic and Galaxy hops contribute to the citrusy/piney taste and the requisite bitterness at 45 IBUs. CSPC +771186, $14, 6 pack cans

Ribstone Creek Rangeland Pale Ale (4.2%) - From tiny Edgerton, Alberta, comes this hybrid blend of an English ESB and an American Pale Ale. A light amber beer with Cascade hops providing the piney nose and flavour at 30 IBUs. CSPC +759002, $15, 6 pack cans

Find Your Best: Asian Adventure by DAN CLAPSON, LINDA GARSON, DIANA NG, and LYNDA SEA photography by INGRID KUENZEL

There is nothing more satisfying than stumbling upon a little restaurant in an unexpected location that ends up blowing your socks off. We are lucky in Calgary to have so many great Asian restaurants, from the big to the small, the well known to the lesser-so. If you can’t quite get enough robust, exotic flavours and are always up for discovering something new, take our little quiz below to find out which Asian eatery you should try out for lunch or dinner this month. 1. When it comes to heat levels, I like my food… a) nice and spicy. Bring on the burn! b) nice and hot, but I hope you mean temperature. No chillies for me! c) with a little kick to it. Nothing too crazy though.

4. When I’m eating Asian cuisine, it’s typically… a) out at a restaurant with some friends. b) at home, I usually order to go. c) depends on the time of day and what I’m craving.

2. I find myself craving Asian food… a) after a long day at work. b) when I want something comforting, but different. c) all day, every day. Especially Korean!

5. The location of a restaurant in proximity to where I live is… a) irrelevant. I am willing to drive anywhere for good food. b) somewhat important, and parking would be nice. c) I live in the Beltline and don’t like to drive, so somewhere close is better.

3. If I had to pick one dish to eat for the rest of my life, it would be… a) anything with chilli peppers. b) momo for me! c) bibimbap.

6. If there isn’t a noodle bowl or similar facsimile on the menu, I feel…

a) happy. Those aren’t always overly exciting. b) indifferent. Rice will do! c) so, so sad. I always pray it doesn’t happen. 7. How many people do you usually go out to eat with? a) 6 or more. b) no more than 4. c) I usually eat alone. It’s not as lonely as it sounds though. 8. After looking at the menu, I typically go for… a) a mix of dishes with a couple things I haven’t tried before. b) anything that sounds delicious, I don’t play favourites. c) I like the classics or menu items that are tried and true to my tastebuds. 33

Szechuan Restaurant (mostly As)

“I’ll have the stir-fried rice noodles with beef,” you say with confidence. You go for Chinese food all the time, and you may even go for dim sum once in awhile; so surely, you know what you’re doing when faced with the menu at a Chinese restaurant. Well, this isn’t just a Chinese restaurant; this is a Szechuan (or Sichuan) restaurant, aptly named Szechuan Restaurant. Most of what people understand as Chinese food - wor wonton with noodles, chow mein, roasted meats is Cantonese cuisine that originated from the Guangdong region of China. Szechuan cuisine, unsurprisingly, hails from the Sichuan province and is markedly bolder, and sometimes even painfully spicy in flavour, with extensive use of garlic, peppercorns, chillies, and other pungent spices.

Himalayan Nepali Cuisine (mostly Bs)

Everything about the Himalayan is warm – the décor and ambience; the welcome (be sure to make reservations, or you might not get a table!); the service (if you’re lucky and they’re not rushed off their feet, a little surprise arrives of poppadom with mango-ginger and mint-yogurt dipping sauces.) And of

If you can take the heat, start the meal with the cold spicy bean jelly curd, then move onto spicy boiled basa, and the fried chicken with dried chilli peppers. If not, opt for the tea-smoked duck, eggplant in sour-sweet sauce with ground pork, and the mapo tofu. It’s usually a good idea to have one or two

spicy dishes and have keep the rest mild. You’ll also want to order rice to neutralize the big flavours and to tame the fires of hell on your palate. 320 16 Ave NW, 403-276-8876 szechuanrestaurant.ca

course the food is warming too, but not particularly spicy-hot unless you choose it to be – just about every dish has a choice of mild, medium or hot. Nepalese dishes are healthy, maybe more than some other South Asian cuisines, as they rely less on fats and more on lean meats, vegetables, lentils, rice (and rice flour for noodles), and if you’re vegetarian or eat a gluten-free

diet, The Himalayan is a godsend, as you’ll have a ton of choices from the regular menu! The staple diet is Dal, Bhat and Tarkari - lentils, rice and curried vegetables to you and me. Be sure to start with a Momo, handsdown a Nepalese favourite. They’re filled, steamed chicken, pork or veggie dumplings, accompanied by a delicious tomato garlic dipping sauce. Mains come with saffron rice, grilled bread and a side, so you won’t leave here hungry – and you won’t have had to climb Everest to enjoy it! 3218 17 Ave SW, 403-984-3384 himalayancuisine.ca

Bow Bulgogi House (mostly Cs)

It’s almost a given that you’ll be waiting for a table any time you visit Bow Bulgogi’s small and unassuming location in Killarney. This popular family-run restaurant has been a long-time favourite for Calgarians to eat in or

take out traditional Korean dishes like bulgogi (marinated meat), jap chae (sweet potato noodles), and bibimbap (rice, meat and vegetable bowl). Known for its value and friendly service, Bow Bulgogi is a no-frills place where the Korean-style barbecue dishes are expertly done in the back kitchen

and brought out, rather than cooked tableside. Arguably the most popular dish on the menu here is the classic beef bulgogi — sweet, juicy thinly sliced beef marinated in soy, sesame, oil, garlic and ginger and served on a hot cast-iron plate with lettuce, rice, mushrooms and a red soybean sauce. Don’t miss the pha jeon, a light and perfectly crispy fried seafood and green onion pancake packed with shrimp, scallops, octopus and green onions. You also can’t go wrong with the melt-inyour mouth and off-the-bone short ribs of the L.A. bulgalbi dish. Add in the plentiful portions of banchan (side dishes) of pickled daikon, fried tofu, bean sprouts, and homemade kimchi and you have the makings of a small feast. Open for lunch and dinner weekly, closed Tuesdays. 3515A 17 Ave. SW 403-686-6826

Tamarind Vietnamese (mix of As, Bs and Cs)

It’s been quite some time since I’ve been as charmed by a little restaurant as much as I have by Tamarind. You’ll find

this true culinary gem in the southwest corner of Calgary’s downtown. It brands itself as a Vietnamese restaurant, but its menu offers much more than that. There’s truly a nice mix of Southeast Asian cuisine.

in here because there’s no way you’re going to walk out after your meal feeling anything, but impressed and happily full. 1111 6 Ave SW, 403-262-6644 tamarindyyc.com

From the fresh paradise rolls that are loaded (and I mean loaded) with fresh herbs, noodles, shredded tofu, toasted rice, carrots and lettuce served with a chilli lime vinaigrette for dipping, to their big bowls of soup like the laksa with it’s rich and fragrant lemongrass coconut broth, or the stir-fries starring ingredients like juicy black pepper eggplant, or sizzling, crispy patties of sticky rice, you may be shocked to find out that the restaurant is completely vegan. The space itself is very small, seating about 18 people, so it can fill up quickly for lunch, but it’s a little slower in the evenings, and naturally, Tamarind will happily take to-go orders. Leave whatever pretences you have about vegan cuisine at the door before walking 35

Beyond The Stew:

Exploring The Versatility Of The Slow Cooker by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

We’ve all heard so-called “non-cooks” rave about the ease of using a slow cooker — the whole “set it and forget it” philosophy has allowed countless people with limited kitchen confidence to put together stews, chilis, and other one-pot wonders to feed themselves and their families. Most of us have also trotted out the slow cooker to do braised meats, as the countertop cookers offer a great solution when you don’t have enough room in your oven for both your pot roast and all the sides.

There’s a lot more you can do with a slow cooker than you may think

All of that said, there’s a lot more you can do with a slow cooker than you may think. They definitely come in handy when you’re looking to steer away from the oven to save energy or avoid heating up the house in the summer, or want to let something safely simmer during the day while you’re out and about. Here are three non-stew recipes to get you started: 36

Sausage, Kale, and Chickpea Soup Serves 6-8

Soup is an ideal slow cooker food — even if you’re out when the timer goes off, the cooker should keep it nice and hot until you walk through the door. 1 tsp (5 mL) cooking oil 450 g bulk sausage (or fresh sausage squeezed out of its casing) 1 onion, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 bunch kale, chopped with center ribs removed 1 800 g can whole tomatoes 1 540 g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 6 cups (1.5 L) chicken stock ½ tsp thyme 1 pinch red pepper flakes salt and pepper to taste grated parmesan cheese to serve

1. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the sausage, breaking it up evenly with a wooden spoon. Brown the meat for a few minutes and then add the onion and garlic. Continue to cook until the meat is browned throughout and the onions are soft.

2. Scrape the sausage mixture into a

6-quart slow cooker (it doesn’t matter if it’s oval or round). Add the kale, tomatoes, chickpeas, stock, and spices and stir. If the stock doesn’t fully cover the other ingredients, top up with water.

3. Cook the soup on low for 6 to 8

hours. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Spoon into bowls and sprinkle with parmesan cheese.

Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

2. Combine the melted butter with

Yes, you can actually make a cake in a slow cooker. This dense pineapple upside-down cake is a surprising success. Flipping it out of the cooker requires a little bit of practice, but you’ll be surprised how easily the cake slides out.

3. Using an electric mixer, cream the

Serves 12

Topping:

butter and the sugar until light and fluffy. Mix in the eggs one at a time, followed by the vanilla and milk.

1 cup brown sugar 6 pineapple rings 6 maraschino cherries

4. Stir together the flour, baking

⅓ cup butter, melted

Mustard-Soy Pork Tenderloin Serves 4-6

Pork tenderloin works beautifully in a slow cooker, provided you keep an eye on it to avoid over-cooking. 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 Tbs (30 mL) Dijon mustard 1 tsp (5 mL) soy sauce ½ tsp rosemary ½ tsp thyme ½ tsp oregano ½ tsp salt l lemon, juiced 675-900 g pork tenderloin (either two small or one large tenderloins)

the brown sugar. Spread evenly on the bottom of the slow cooker. Arrange the pineapple rings on top and place a cherry in the centre of each ring. Add extra cherries in the spaces between the rings.

Cake: ½ cup butter, softened 1 cup sugar 2 eggs 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla ⅔ cup (160 mL) milk 1¾ cups flour 1 Tbs baking powder ½ tsp salt ½ cup dried sweet shredded coconut

1. Spray a round 4 or 6-quart slow

cooker with non-stick cooking spray.

powder and salt in a separate bowl, then slowly add to the batter with the mixer on low. Stir in the coconut.

5. Gently scrape the batter into slow

cooker, being careful not to disturb the pineapples. Cook for 2½ - 3 hours on high or until a toothpick inserted in the centre of the cake comes out clean and the edges are firm. Remove the ceramic liner from the slow cooker and let cool on a wire rack for 15 mins. Run a knife along the edge of the cake and in a single motion; flip the liner onto a serving plate and let the cake slide out.

1. In a small bowl, stir together the

garlic, mustard, soy sauce, rosemary, thyme, oregano, salt and lemon juice with a fork until smooth.

2. Place the pork tenderloin(s) in a 4 or 6-quart slow cooker and pour the sauce over top. Flip the meat over a couple of times so that it’s completely coated in the sauce.

3. Cook on low for 5-6 hours, until the pork is cooked throughout and only a slight hint of pink remains inside.

4. Remove from slow cooker and slice the pork into medallions. Spoon the sauce from the slow cooker over top of the sliced pork and serve immediately.

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, and co-founder/co-editor of RollingSpoon.com. She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs. 37

Classic Cocktails

Every Home Bartender Should Learn How To Make by REBECCA DAVIS

It seems like there is a new cocktail creation every five minutes. New spirits, bitters and techniques dot the cocktail landscape, catching the enthusiast’s attention and confusing the newcomer. If you are an at-home bartender, there are a few classic cocktails that you must know how to make yourself. These classics are based not only on their merit but also on technique. From proper muddling to dry shaking, these five classics are definitely a must know. Martini

Mojito

Before the era of sweet, easy to drink cocktails that just had “–tini” hooked on the end of it, a martini meant a gin martini. This classic uses gin, a healthy dose of dry Vermouth and orange bitters. This cocktail is stirred rather than shaken to keep a lush oily texture and finished with a twist of lemon. Martinis are all about personal preferences. Variations such as burnt (scotch rinsed), dirty (the addition of olive brine), or dry (little vermouth), shaken or stirred, gin or vodka, olives or lemon, it all comes down to what you enjoy most. Experiment with your proportions and discover the taste difference.

Probably one of the most famous tropical cocktails and well known as a beach or poolside treat. This cocktail needs muddled ingredients. The process uses a tool like a pestle to release flavour and essential oils, but when muddling citrus, avoid the rind as it produces a bitter flavour, and focus on the pulp. Herbs, like mint, can become over-extracted and bitter when overmuddled. I recommend simply smacking the mint in your hand, or expressing oils, before placing it in your drink.

Glass: Martini 1½ oz Gin ¾ oz Dry Vermouth 2-3 dashes orange bitters

1. Stir until with ice until desired

dilution and temperature is reached. The easiest way to do this is to simply taste.

2. Strain into martini glass. 3. Garnish with a twist of lemon. 38

Glass: Collin’s 2 oz Rum, I prefer to use a spiced rum ½ lime, chopped handful of mint, with oils expressed 1 oz simple syrup soda

1. Build directly in the glass by adding

the chopped lime and sugar and muddling to release the lime juice. Fill your glass half way with ice, add your rum and smack your mint, stir with a bar spoon.

2. Top with more ice and finally soda. Stir and enjoy.

3. Garnish: Mint sprig and lime wheel

ULTRA PREMIUM

Old Fashioned Perhaps the first drink labelled as a cocktail, it contains only four ingredients: sugar, spirit, water, and bitters. While many bartenders have their own version, the old fashion is the definition of a ‘cocktail’, and it is important to know how to make one. Like any cocktail, you can substitute different spirits, bitters, or sugar to create your own variation. Below is a basic recipe using the classic ingredients.

Sours If you were to hit up a high-volume bartender and ask for a whiskey sour, there is a chance that you would receive “Bar Lime” an artificial “lime” juice with a shot of whiskey. The classic sour is a little more complex: Whiskey, fresh lemon, simple syrup, egg white and bitters. Why is it important to know how to make a sour? Egg. When making a sour, it is important to dry shake (shaking before the addition of ice) to emulsify the egg white. This creates a velvety smooth froth essential to a sour. The recipe below is a classic whiskey sour but there are many variations. Glass: Rocks 2 oz Whisky (Canadian, Bourbon, Irish or even Scotch Whisk(e)y) 5 oz fresh lemon juice ¾ oz simple syrup 3-4 dashes aromatic bitters 1 fresh egg white

1. Add all ingredients into a shaker tin.

If you don’t have a tin on tin shaker, you can use a mason jar with a sealable lid. Dry shake vigorously to emulsify the egg white.

2. Add ice and shake again. Strain. 3. Garnish: Lemon wedge or wheel 40

Glass: Rocks 2 oz Rye whisky 1 brown sugar cube 5-6 heavy dashes Aromatic Bitters ice Orange & Brandied Cherry Garnish

1. Directly in the glass, place sugar

cube and dash the bitters over the cube to soak the sugar with bitters. Muddle the sugar until smooth. Add whisky. Stir well. The more you stir before you add the ice, the better the three ingredients will be combined.

2. Add ice, stir well, and repeat. Make sure to taste your cocktail, from here you may decide that it needs more bitters, dilution, or ice.

Margarita The classic Margarita, created in the United States, is possibly one of the most desired cocktails and it’s not hard to see why. Though some people either love or hate tequila, the addition of Cointreau and fresh lime creates a refreshing, easy to drink cocktail. There any many variations to this classic and it’s always fun to try new things. If you are an at-home bartender, there are a few classic cocktails that you must know how to make yourself

3. Garnish: Orange rind, with oils expressed and cherry

Glass: Rocks 1½ oz Blanco Tequila ½ oz Cointreau 1 oz Fresh lime juice 1 oz agave syrup 1:1 salt

1. Rim your glass using a lime then

follow with salt. The lime will help the salt stay on the glass.

2. In a shaker combine all ingredients

and shake well. Strain over fresh ice into your glass.

3. Garnish: Lime wheel A born and raised Calgarian, Rebecca’s passion for wine and spirits started early. Originally a sommelier, she instinctively progressed into cocktails. On her days off Rebecca enjoys a classic Old Fashioned.

Picking The Perfect Cellar Dweller by TOM FIRTH

Most wine aficionados love to cellar wine. Reading the reviews, buying a case of a treasured acquisition, and then watching it sit in your cellar until its ready to drink is pretty exciting to some, but for others, it’s a bit like watching paint dry or bread getting mouldy. As wine matures in the cellar, it develops, and increases in complexity — comparing well-matured wine to its most recent vintage can be like travelling back in time or imaging what a child will become when the weight of years is upon it.

Not everyone likes old wine. Youthful wines are generally full of fruit flavours and are easy to drink and easy to describe, while older wines shed that youthful, fruity exuberance and showcase earthy characters with more spice or rustic layers. There is certainly a place on the table for both of these wines. Asking for wine advice on cellaring can be a bit like asking how long a piece of rope is. You are going to get a very different answer each time you ask. In general, your cellar should be cool, dark, and undisturbed as much as possible. Another thing to consider is that when professionals are estimating how wines will cellar, they are estimates. A good sommelier will have plenty of experience with multiple vintages, new and old, and should be able to draw

comparisons suitable for the wine in question. Finally, you may prefer wines that aren’t fully matured or you may even prefer wines that are a bit over the hill. These cellaring estimates are just that — estimates. Every wine will develop differently, which is half the fun

Culinaire Magazine asked a few leading retail sommeliers and wine experts for their thoughts on cellaring wine. Nathalie Gosselin (NG) of Vine Styles, Peter Smolarz (PS) of Willow Park Wines & Spirits, and Mike Roberts (MR) of Co-op Wine Spirits Beer weigh in and share a few picks from their own stores that might be a fit in your cellar. 41

Q: What do you look for in selecting wines to cellar? In particular, regions or types of wines?

power. In my opinion, every wine region produces wines with aging potential, but the ones that come to mind are Italian Barolo and Barbarescos. And I can’t overlook a good Bordeaux or Napa Valley wine. Just remember, a certain wine region or a price point isn’t indicative of whether or not the wine should be cellared.

PS: I am always looking for wines that have a reputation of being long-lived. In particular, for reds, I have lots of Pessac-Leognan and Pauillac wines, from a range of vintages. From Burgundy, I stick to mostly Corton Vineyards while the Northern Rhone is also a favourite of mine, mostly Cote Rotie. With the prices on French wines increasing, in the last few years I have started collecting more Italian wines Super Tuscans, Brunello and Barolo, and more Spanish wines, mostly Priorat and Ribera del Duero. For whites, I have some Clos du Mouches and Corton Charlemagne tucked away, as well as some Eden Valley Rieslings. These are some of my favourite with age, and as of late, I have started collecting more Bordeaux Blanc from Pessac-Léognan. Vintage Champagne is what I collect the most of - especially the 2002 vintage; lately I have been collecting more Blanc de Noirs. MR: This is not an easy question to sum up in a simple answer but there are some very important characteristics that must be considered when choosing to cellar a wine. Noticeable tannin structure and good acid levels are ultra-important. Acid does not fade with time, keeping the wine fresh, whereas tannins will meld into a softer mouthfeel. Body and concentration is of utmost importance too. There needs to be significant texture to begin with, so after ageing, some of that texture and concentration still exists. My favourite cellar-worthy region has to be the Northern Rhone. The aged syrah from this area produces wonderfully savoury and smoky aromatics backed most years by a fresh acid component. If I could drink Cote Rotie and Hermitage 42

Q: What sort of timeline to you prefer to cellar wines for?

every day, I would! Chianti Classico Riserva is another gem, and great value that evolves into deeply complex and interesting wine. I lean on regions or wines that show good tannic structure balanced with acidity. Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino and Rioja are great options too. NG: I love wines that continue to evolve in the bottle with time. It’s always nice revisiting your favourites to see how they change, and when it comes to my own selections for cellaring, the main components I look for are tannins, acidity, and alcohol content, for lasting

MR: Who has 15 years of patience and discipline? Not this guy. Quality Rieslings from all over the world offer great reward at five to ten years. I find I enjoy cellared wines at seven to ten years best. The fruit has evolved, but typically not into completely tertiary or secondary flavour profiles, and the structure of the wine has mellowed. As always with wine though, there is no black and white rule. NG: Most wine on the market is meant to be consumed within three years. For the ones that are worth cellaring I usually look at seven to ten years, potentially even 15 for some (especially if it’s a very well made wine). A very small amount of wines on the market would benefit from an even longer cellaring. Ideally you would purchase a few bottles that you can try at a regular interval of times to see how the wine changes and improves every year.

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Q: Anything else you’d like to share about cellaring wine?

The Wine Picks

PS: I always stress to my customers before they start collecting wines, to understand the flavour profile of aged wines, These wines lose a lot of the primary flavour (fruits) and gain tremendous secondary and tertiary notes that can be described as vegetable garden, barnyard, forest floor or even medicinal characters. If you do intend on cellaring wines, it is always best to buy in multiples of at least three to be able to taste it throughout its progression.

Fine Wine Director, Willow Park Wines & Spirits

As wine matures in the cellar, it develops, and increases in complexity

MR: Experiencing a properly aged bottle of wine can be an incredible experience. Much like listening to an original Beatles LP rather than a digitally re-mastered MP3 version, there are nuances and intricacies that can be reveled in by an avid listener or drinker. Every wine will develop differently, which is half the fun. Enjoying each experience as a moment, even if it’s the same wine three or five years later, is what it’s all about. There are two very important things to remember when cellaring:

1. Store your wine in a consistently

dark place with a stable temperature.

Peter Smolarz

Château Smith Haut-Lafitte 2010 Grand Vin Pessac-Léognan Bordeaux, France $210 Tolaini 2009 Picconero Tuscany, Italy $80 Pingus 2011 Flor de Pingus Ribera del Duero, Spain $117 Taittinger 2004 Comtes de Champagne Rosé Champagne, France $300

Peter Smolarz

Mike Roberts

Sommelier Manager, Co-op Wine Spirits Beer M. Chapoutier 2011 Chante Alouette Hermitage, France $90 Longview 2010 Yakka Shiraz Adelaide Hills, Australia $27 Domdechant Werner Hochheimer 2012 Kabinett Rheingau, Germany $27

Mike Roberts

Nathalie Gosselin

Ruffino 2009 Riserva Ducale Oro, Chianti Classico Riserva, Italy $40

Chief Experience Designer, Vine Styles Camaraderie Cellars 2008 Merlot

2. Stop and smell the roses. If you have Yakima, Washington $37 waited seven to ten years to open a bottle, give it the attention it deserves.

G.D. Vajra 2010 Barolo Ravera Piedmont, Italy $77 Signorello Estate 2010 Padrone Cabernet Sauvignon Napa, California $192

Tom Firth is the contributing drinks editor for Culinaire Magazine and the competition director for the Alberta Beverage Awards, follow him on twitter @cowtownwine. 44

Les Halos de Jupiter 2011 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc France $67

Nathalie Gosselin

Making The Case by TOM FIRTH

Jordan 2012 Chardonnay

November is a tough month, we are getting our winter “skin” on as the weather gets colder, but we are also between Thanksgiving and the holiday season, so there are plenty of opportunities to get together with friends this month. This seems like the sort of month to remember that we are all better together, and so for your enjoyment, below are pairs of offerings from some great producers from around the globe, to enjoy with a friend or two.

Oh, where has this been all my life? Balanced, beautiful chardonnay rife with tropical fruits, a little creaminess, and perfect balance, making this too good to be a quaffer, but you’ll still notice your glass emptied without knowing. I’d happily drink this now, but you can age it for a while too. As for food? Seared scallops, halibut, or even a creamy alfredo sauce. About $50-55 CSPC +277897

Jordan 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Top-shelf cabernet, proving Jordan has the one-two punch down pat. Both their chardonnay and cabernet are made for drinking and pairing with food, but even by itself the cab shows all those great varietal characters you expect. Tannins are silken and fruits are so well integrated (12 months barrel and a further 21 months bottle aging) it’s almost a shame to be drinking it now. This would be pretty spectacular with anything that once mooed. $75-80 CSPC +365577

Luce 2011 An undertaking between Robert Mondavi and the Marchesi Frescobaldi, this is a wonderful wine bridging both new and old worlds. Intensity is too small a word, but look for layers of black fruit, spice, herb and a little heat, plum, and cherry cola. Drink or keep, but anything with loads of protein will work here on the table. Wow, this was good. Around $100 CSPC +701977 46

Delight your guests.

2015 Judges Selection Winners Proudly represented in Alberta by Charton Hobbs

Lucente 2011 Tuscany, Italy

Elio Altare 2013 Dolcetto d’Alba Piedmont, Italy

Elio Altare 2011 Barolo Piedmont, Italy

The second wine of Luce, but still “top- shelf.” Aromas are of smoked cherry, cranberry, tobacco, spice box, plum, and liquorice. Tannins are firmish, supporting good solid fruits. A bit more of a food-required wine than Luce, maybe pair with slow cooked pork, meaty sauces, or firm cheese. About $40-45 CSPC +519421

I have a weakness for dolchetto. I love the plump, lush fruits with their slightly jammy edge. I really like that they can be enjoyed ever-so-slightly chilled, and their tannins lend a nice weight without being bitter. Finally, I love how great they are with homemade pizza, or a little charcuterie. Drink now! Around $30 CSPC +725399

Elio Altare is one of the “Barolo Boys”, those visionaries of Piedmont who have been making “modern” barolos in this tradition-rich region. Their Barolo is sourced from four communes with two years of barrel aging showing hints of chocolate and kirsch, while complex fruits and tannins are fantastic. Waaay too young to drink now, buy and keep 10+ years. About $100-110 CSPC +776918

Paolo Conterno 2012 Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy

Paolo Conterno 2013 “Bricco” Barbera D’Alba, Piedmont, Italy

Bartier Bros. 2012 Illegal Curve Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Bursting with lush fruits in the raspberry and currant spectrum while the tannins are well integrated and balanced, making the whole package a treat. Like any good wine, it begs for food, and something with braised beef, or the meatiest tomato sauce you can cook up. $23 CSPC +741110

A wine to savour and enjoy anytime. Peppery spices with dried sage, thyme, and black cherries on the nose, with silken textures and a long finish. Drink now or keep, but either way it will shine with pork or lamb-based dishes. $18-19 CSPC +703812

A funky blend based around cabernet franc with syrah and a little merlot, the nose is decidedly spicy with very well integrated fruits showing a certain… purity. Good fruits in the mouth, while tannins have a determined firmness around them. No matter, you’ll want this with braised meats, burgers, or maybe some ribs smothered in sauce. $23 CSPC +444273

Bartier Bros. 2011 The Goal Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

La Escapada NV Cava Demi Sec Catalunya, Spain

La Escapada NV Cava Rose Catalunya, Spain

Merlot with about 10% cabernet franc, this bottle is showing very well this fall. Crushed raspberry and plum fruit with wood box, black pepper spice, and some well-integrated tannins. A pleasure to drink, especially when those raspberries show up on the finish. Pot roasts, prime rib, or lamb would work well here. $36 CSPC +164608

A refreshing expression of cava. A little residual sweetness dials back the acidity cava is known for, while apple peel, citrus, and a lemony finish round it out. Very well-priced for quality sparkling wine. I’d be happy to drink this on its own, but it would be great to enjoy with a little citrus either in a starter or dessert. About $14 CSPC +767614

Engaging on nose and palate with dried strawberries, herb, and biscuit in abundance. Pleasantly toasty on the palate with a richness that screams out for another glass. Quite dry, it should be very versatile with anything from pork shoulder to homemade pizza. Delicious. $14-15 CSCP +767614

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Born and raised in Fredericton, New Brunswick, of Dutch parents, Visbach grew up with her parents’ nursery and other businesses. Her father also worked the stock market and was a hard taskmaster. “We all had dinner together every night, that was mandatory,” she recalls. But at 6:30 pm, conversation stopped, the radio would go on, and everybody would be quiet while he listened to the stock market report. On retiring, her father opened a campground, and the young Visbach would do unglamorous things like clean the washrooms, and check in campers. “I think that really gave me the taste for tourism, and wanting to be around people who were having a day off,” she says.

Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

“I wanted to spend time around people on vacation,” says Alida Visbach, President and CEO of Heritage Park. “People having a good time are disposed to being in a good mood, and I like people in a good mood.” 50

Her friends talked about going west to seek their fortune after graduating, but Visbach didn’t want to be like everyone else, and moved to South Africa to work in her uncle’s business, feeding her need for adventure. She travelled through Europe until she ran out of money and headed home to university, and evening work in restaurants to pay for it. “I really enjoyed doing that as well,” she says, “and when the flagship Hilton International opened in St. John, I landed a job there.” Over the following years, Visbach worked her way up in various hotel groups to VP Marketing, before taking an Economic Development and Tourism contract with New Brunswick government. “My territory was the US and Japan, with a secondary focus on Europe,” she says. “I travelled two to three weeks out of every month, year-round, though I got to see some fascinating places.” King’s Landing, the provincial crown corporation in Fredericton, then came knocking. “I was the Director of Marketing for

several years and then was promoted to CEO,” says Visbach. “It was 1 km away from where my mother was living on her own.” While there, she tripled the food and beverage revenue, and built two sewerage treatment plants, but in April 2005, she was headhunted again to run a living history museum with multiple revenue streams in Calgary. For three months Visbach commuted between Fredericton and Calgary, before moving here for good. “I love living in Calgary and I love working at Heritage Park, it was the right decision,” she explains. “People are so hospitable here and willing to help out… since I’ve come here, I’ve never given more or volunteered more, it’s like breathing.” So what wine is Visbach is saving for a special occasion? A bottle of Laughing Stock Portfolio is sitting on the table. “I purchased this bottle in the fall of 2014,” says Visbach. “We took my little red convertible with the top down, and drove through the mountains in beautiful late August, through Osoyoos and Penticton. We took a wine tour and I got to choose some of the wineries. I really wanted to go to Laughing Stock as a good friend of mine here used to be a stockbroker, and she had two friends who were also stockbrokers, and they got out of the business and bought a little winery on the Naramata Bench.” She continues, “This bottle is a 2012, but the vintner said at the time that it really should age, and we have a great cellar where we store wine, it’s nice and cool and dark.” And when will Visbach open the bottle? Ultimately, she’s going to have to retire at some point, and when that time comes, this will be the bottle she’ll open to celebrate.