ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 5 NO.5 :: OCTOBER 2016
UNCORKING THE BEST OF THE 2016
ALBERTA BEVERAGE AWARDS
OVER
250
WINNING WINES, BEERS AND SPIRITS All About Pies | Thanksgiving Sides | Pumpkin Creativity
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22 22 14 VOLUME 5 / ISSUE #5 OCTOBER 2016
Features 12 Go Sweet Or Savoury With Homemade Pie The autumn chill means it’s time for pies, and here are two comfort food classic recipes to master for smiles all round this season by Renee Kohlman
22 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards Results The fourth Alberta Beverage Awards continues to grow, with over 125 flights representing nearly 30 countries, poured into around 5,000 glasses by Tom Firth
Departments
66 Open That Bottle George Schwartz of The Post Hotel and Spa, Lake Louise by Linda Garson
On the Cover:
14 Finding The Perfect Pies in Alberta Even if you’ve achieved pastry perfection in the kitchen, these four pie-centric Alberta locations will take the (sweet or savoury) biscuit! by Dan Clapson and Phil Wilson
Many thanks to Jason Dziver for this month’s cover shot, and to Tom Firth for assembling the nearly 800 corks used to make the map.
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Salutes and Shout Outs
10
8
Off The Menu – Truffle Sticks from Grapes Wine Bar at Fairmont Banff Springs
18 Spice It Up: Thanksgiving potato side dishes
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Book Review
20
Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!
Soup Kitchen
Cheers, Alberta! WE PROUDLY HOIST OUR WILD, AWARDED BREWS
wildrosebrewery.com #2 4580 Quesnay Wood Dr SW
Letter From The Editor to it whenever they are looking for a particular type of beverage. I love it! We’re super happy that Alberta has embraced the Awards, and we’ve grown every year in both quantity and quality since our inaugural competition in 2013, even in times of economic downturn. Now with distribution in Edmonton and the mountains too, we’re really pleased to be reaching an even greater audience who are keen to learn the best that Alberta has to offer. Look in your local liquor store for stickers on the bottles denoting our winners! We’re enormously proud this month to bring you our biggest issue of the year – the results of the 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards, with over 250 winning wines, beers and spirits. We know that this is one of our most popular months, and people have told me “Your results issue is a keeper!” and that they refer
We’re also delighted with the increase in locally made craft beers, spirits, and mead entries, and special thanks go to Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance, for bringing these small producers to the fore (have you downloaded your copy yet of Sippin’ Alberta, Craft Beverage Trail? Check out albertaculinary.com!).
a meal centuries in the making Brazilians call it churrasco. You’ll call it the best barbecue you’ve ever had. C A LG A RY 100 - 5920 Macleod Trail SW phone:403.454.9119
C A N MOR E 629 Main Street phone:403.678.9886
It’s a great time for Culinaire, and I’m thrilled with our first Edmonton Treasure Hunt last month. What fun! I’m sorry that we couldn’t take everyone who wanted to join us as we sold out so quickly, but save the first Saturday after Labour Day next year – we’re coming back again! It’s Thanksgiving of course this month, and I owe many thanks to so many people who have helped us get this far: our readers, advertisers and supporters, our contributors, and our distributors; the wine producers and importers, judges, volunteers, director, and the Blackfoot Hotel, for the success of the Beverage Awards; and our destinations and participants in both Calgary and Edmonton for the success of the Treasure Hunts! Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief
ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Commercial Director: Keiron Gallagher 403-975-7177 sales@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Sales Director: Lisa Wolansky 587-338-8780 lisa@culinairemagazine.ca Advertising Consultant: Tim Mitchell 403-604-7478 tim@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca
Our Contributors < Natalie Findlay
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. Her food aspirations started at an early age as she baked desserts for her family and friends as soon as she could use a mixer. Natalie’s love of food resulted in her graduating from The Cordon Bleu’s Pastry Program. Over the past 10 years, Natalie has been a pastry chef and cook while managing her own business creating custom-made special occasion cakes.
Digital Media Editor: Anna Brooks web@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Jason Dziver Natalie Findlay Karlynn Johnson Dong Kim Renee Kohlman Robyn Maclean Karen Miller Phil Wilson
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca. Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
< Tom Firth
Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge, whose work in the wine and beverage industry stretches back to the mid-90s. Tom is the Contributing Drinks Editor for Culinaire Magazine and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. He has no qualms about tasting first thing in the morning, and his poor desk is completely covered in paper and bottles. Follow him on Twitter @cowtownwine
< Dong Kim
Dong is a professional photographer, mental health therapist, and small business owner living in Calgary, but you’ll often find him eating his way through his hometown of Edmonton, bordering on savage. Although he shoots a wide range of subject matter, his passion for food can be seen in the photography for the newly released “Edmonton Cooks” cookbook. Follow him @therealbuntcake and @shesaidyeah_ on Instagram.
All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
Salutes... SAIT is celebrating 100 years
… and everyone’s invited! On Sunday October 16 from noon to 7:30pm at SAIT main campus, this free public
event includes a BBQ lunch for 2,500 people; a car, truck and helicopter show; international food fair; Juno award winner, Dan Mangan; time capsule reveal; and
spectacular fireworks – and a 7ft cake weighing 200+ lbs, with over 500 hours work from around 40 volunteer bakers, will be cut at 3 pm! Visit sait.ca/100
and Shout Outs... and Sunday high tea. By reservation only at 3pm and 3:30pm, high tea includes a welcome cocktail, amuse bouche, savouries, pastries and petit fours, and of course, tea. Everything is well executed here; we love the detail and the respect for the ingredients, along with the no tipping policy, Café Linnea proudly pay staff a fair living wage. Nandos Courtesy Adriana Bernal
Have Mercy (Edmonton)
El Cortez has opened a new ‘southern table Nandos (Calgary and Edmonton) & bar’, Have Mercy, upstairs above the … has spread its wings with two new Mexican Kitchen & Tequila Bar. Come for hatchings of Portuguese-style flame-grilled a Kentucky whiskey cocktail and southern chicken “casas” on 17th Ave SW in Calgary diner food – arrive hungry and enjoy shrimp and 50th Street NW in Edmonton. They’re and grits or fried chicken and donuts – and community-focused, and the largest curator stay for the Elvis impersonator, karaoke, and of South African artwork outside South country, rock or bluegrass music. Africa – the Calgary casa is worth a visit for the beautiful artwork alone. But stay for lunch or dinner, or take away the 24-hour marinated peri-peri chicken, and customize your sauce to your heat level. There are kids’ Nandino meals too!
Dorinku Izakaya (Edmonton)
Meaning ‘drink’ in Japanese, Dorinku is a new isakaya on 102 Street/Whyte Avenue. It’s a great place to go with a group and share dishes; the beautiful small plates and entrees taste as good as they look. Don’t miss pressed wild sockeye salmon and avocado sushi or the pork shabu salad. Cocktails are inexpensive, and there’s an extensive sake and whisky list. Be prepared for yelling when you arrive, “irasshaimase” is the traditional welcome!
Naina’s
Naina’s (Calgary)
Naina’s has moved into the old Villa Maria space on 17th Ave SE after 6 years in Odgen – and grown from 28 to 82 seats. A local family business that supports other local family businesses; expect generous portions of homely burgers, grilled cheese, and poutine, and now home made ice cream too. Choose an award-winning stuffed burger (1/2 lb of Alberta beef) or pick from 19 stuffings. Or one of 9 grilled Cafe Linnea (Edmonton) cheese sandwiches. Or a superb poutine Duchess Bakeshop has opened an expanded with your choice of 14 toppings (the Eggs Duchess Provisions on 119 Street NW, and Benny poutine IS to die for!). Parking Café Linnea – for French and Scandinavian- grows to 50 spots after 5pm, and on game inspired breakfast/brunch Thurs – Mon, night have a burger and leave your car! 6
Yakima Social Kitchen + Bar
Yakima Social Kitchen + Bar (Calgary)
A happy surprise awaits at Calgary's new international terminal – Yakima is a destination restaurant with food you’ll want to devour before (or after) your flight, and an extensive local spirits selection (we love the creative drinks list on a bottle!). It’s a gorgeous space – bright and airy, with a wall of windows. The communal worktable with discreet electric power points will be a popular spot, and there’s a private dining room for 25 people, perfect for corporate gatherings. Chef Jan-Kai Cromsfoth’s menu is all local; snack on spicy house made beef jerky, cheese sesame churros, or a hare sate skewer, while you sip your Saskatoon Mule cocktail – or go all out with the pulled elk burger, lemongrassinfused karee burger, and excellent beef filet. This is not your regular airport dining!
Deane House (Calgary)
Long awaited Deane House, sister to River Café and passion project of owner Sal Howell, has opened its doors – and it’s impressive. Chef Jamie Harling’s (ex of neighbour, Rouge) menu includes local longhorn beef tartare, ember roasted winter squash, local duck egg with roasted cauliflower, roasted rabbit saddle, and our favourite Red Fife sourdough. Expect thoughtful décor in all rooms, the Garden Room, Library, Tenement Bar, the elegant dining room, and more…
Off The Menu Truffle Sticks from Grapes Wine Bar at Fairmont Banff Springs by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
Grapes Wine Bar is celebrating 90 years! We love the charcuterie, artisan cheeses and freshly baked breads here, so we’re very pleased to be asked for the recipe for the truffle sticks. Many thanks to Chef J.W. Foster for sharing the recipe with us!
Makes 15 truffle sticks
Pizza Dough 500 g bread flour 1 Tbs (17 g) instant yeast 1 Tbs salt 1¼ cups (300 mL) water 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil
Mix all ingredients together, and knead for about 10 minutes until a smooth, elastic dough is achieved.
Truffle Sticks
1 portion (170 g) pizza dough as above 1 tsp (5 mL) truffle oil 50 g parmesan cheese, grated To taste black pepper To taste Italian seasoning
Preheat oven to 350º F
1. Line a baking tray with parchment paper.
2. Flatten and stretch pizza
dough into a 10 cm rectangle.
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Lightly pour over truffle oil, then sprinkle black pepper, parmesan cheese and Italian seasoning over entire dough.
3. Fold dough in half towards
yourself using the friction of the table to seal the dough. Roll dough into a long stick, the length of your baking tray. While rolling the pizza dough into a stick, sprinkle parmesan cheese on the work surface, so that it will collect into the dough.
4. Place on the prepared baking
tray. Pour more truffle oil along the length of the stick as desired. Let rest for 15-20 minutes.
5. Bake for 20 minutes at 350º F or until desired colour is reached.
If there’s a dish in a local restaurant that you’d love to know how to make, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track it down for you!
Book Review by MEL PRIESTLEY
Edmonton Cooks
Julie Van Leanne Brown, Tina Faiz Figure 1 Publishing 2016 $34 Even without cracking the cover of Edmonton Cooks, you know it will be on every foodie’s holiday shopping list this year – unless they’ve already bought it! Written by local food writer, Tina Faiz, and former Edmontonian, Leanne Brown, this cookbook is a celebration of the city’s food scene and the rapid growth in dining culture over the past decade; a milestone in Edmonton’s food evolution. 255 pages are filled with recipes ranging from straightforward to complex; over 75 recipes are featured, showcasing 38 of the city’s top chefs such as Daniel Costa, Rosario Caputo, Larry Stewart, Adelino Oliveira and Kevin Cam, and include their signature dishes and Edmonton favourites. The appetizing photography is by another former Edmontonian, the talented Dong Kim, who takes most of our Edmonton photographs for Culinaire Magazine too. The bright and enticing dishes look as good as we know they taste. Padmanadi’s unctuous banana coconut French toast (p. 157) will be at the top of any brunch lover's “to make” list, while carnivores will find themselves lingering over the beautiful venison tenderloin from Solstice Seasonal Cuisine (p. 200), or drooling over Tres Carnales’ Tacos de Pollo (p. 213). Everyone will pause at the gorgeous, colourful double-page spreads showing Culina’s goat cheese and chana daal, and their green onion cakes with braised pork and kimchi (p. 68). In many cases, there are useful tips from the chefs too – cementing this book as required reading for all food-minded folks whether they live in, live near, or visit Edmonton. Mel Priestley is a journalist, food and wine writer and avid gardener based in Edmonton. One day she’ll find the perfect wine pairing for cheezies. Follow her on Twitter @melpriestley
Chefs' Tips Tricks! A Passion For Pumpkins
by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL and LINDA GARSON
Two talented Alberta chefs share a There’s something about couple of tricks to help expand our the fall here in Canada pumpkin cooking chops and incorporate this versatile fall ingredient into a variety that triggers a frenzied of dishes. obsession with pumpkins. As soon as the leaves begin Executive chef Andrea Harling Made Foods (Calgary) to change, the cooler weather sets in, and scarves “We have created a culture where some come out in full force, people believe pumpkins have only a people want nothing more few purposes – and many don’t even include eating!" Harling says. "I see than to cook, bake, eat, them used for home décor, scented candles and seasonal coffee. But I want drink, carve, decorate or people to know about the abundance smash pumpkins. of flavours and creative dishes that can And why not? A pumpkin’s versatility doesn’t end with seasonal coffees, pumpkin spiced everything, jack-olanterns and pie, although there are few smells as inviting as baked pumpkin pie with the comforting flavours of cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice.
Sweet or savoury, fresh or canned, roasted, baked, pureed, fried or raw, it’s unlikely there’s any other fruit – yes fruit, you read that part right – that’s quite as adaptable as pumpkin. 10
stem from the beautiful ingredient.”
It’s not just being the star of the season that Made Foods' chef, Andrea Harling, loves about pumpkins. “You can use them from inside to out, leaving little waste behind,” explains Harling. “Everything including the shell, stem, seeds, flesh, pulp and blossoms are edible or usable for presentation.” The chef goes on to point out that its unique flavour doesn’t need to
Executive chef Andrea Harling
be over-thought or overworked, just complemented by other fall flavours that can help its smooth sweetness shine through. “I get excited about all of the possibilities,” says Chef Harling. “A few of my favourite dishes include: pumpkin butter, pumpkin seed oil (drizzled over salads providing a nutty, candy taste), roasted and pureed pumpkin in risotto and stews – and pasta dishes like this gnocchi.”
Pumpkin Ricotta Gnocchi With A Vegetable Nage
Executive chef Nathan Henry
Serves: 4 – 6
Fried Pumpkins And Parsnips With Lemon Herb Yoghurt Serves 4
1 cup pumpkin, cooked and pureed 1 cup ricotta cheese 2 large eggs ¼ cup Parmesan cheese, grated 2 tsp sea salt 4 cups flour, “00” or all-purpose
1 sugar pumpkin, 5 cm diced 2 parsnips, 5 cm diced 2 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp cayenne Kosher salt
1. In a large mixing bowl, mix pumpkin,
1 cup cornstarch 1 cup Anita’s organic flour 2 cups (480 mL) cold water 1 cup ice
Batter:
ricotta, Parmesan, eggs and salt. Add 2 cups of flour and with your hands, mix well. If the dough is sticky and hard to work, add another ½ cup of flour and mix well. Add more flour if needed.
Dip:
2. Once dough is soft, roll into a ball.
Cover with a damp towel or saran wrap, and let rest for a few minutes.
3. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. While the water is coming to a boil, make the gnocchi.
4. Lightly dust the counter with flour. Cut the dough into four equal pieces.
5. Take one piece and cut it in half.
Roll into a snake about 1 cm thick. When it’s the right thickness, cut pieces 2 cm long. Repeat with the rest of the dough, keeping it covered while not working with it.
6. Once all the gnocchi is cut, dust
them with a little flour. You can mark the gnocchi with a fork, to create ridges that the sauce can hold on to, but it also makes them a little lighter and more airy.
7. Drop a few gnocchi at a time into
the hot water. Increase heat to a rolling boil, and boil until they float, then remove them with a slotted spoon. Lay the cooked gnocchi on a baking sheet and toss with a little oil so they don't stick together. Keep them in the refrigerator, covered until ready to use. Visit culinairemagazine.ca for Vegetable Nage recipe
Executive chef Nathan Henry 12 Acres (Edmonton)
“I appreciate the versatility of pumpkins,” says Henry. “I love that I can tailor them to breakfast, lunch or dinner, whether sweet or savoury dishes. Plus they’re a fantastic substitute for winter squash and sweet potatoes.” When shopping for pumpkin, first look for varieties of a reasonable size at your local farmers market. “Those big pumpkins you see at the pumpkin patch or grocery store may look appealing, but they’re not ideal for cooking and baking," Henry explains. "They’re grown for sheer size, and you’ll find they’re stringy, bland and watery.”
½ cup (120 mL) Greek yoghurt ½ cup (120 mL) sour cream 2 cloves roasted garlic 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice 1 Tbs fresh thyme, chopped 1 Tbs fresh rosemary, chopped 2 Tbs (30 mL) red wine vinegar
1. Toss parsnips and pumpkin chunks in
oil, cayenne and cinnamon. Roast on a baking sheet at 375º F for 20 minutes until al dente. Remove, and cool in fridge.
2. Blend ice cubes, water, flour and
cornstarch to pancake batter consistency.
3. Heat oil to 375º F in pot or deep fryer. 4. Dust chunks in flour and then dip into batter. Deep fry until golden brown, toss in kosher salt.
5. Whisk dip ingredients together.
So, in this case, bigger is not always better. The same mentality applies for other autumn favourites like zucchini or parsnips. “A good culinary pumpkin should be sweet, flavourful, and have smoothtextured flesh," Henry adds. "If you’re planning on going the sweet route and can’t find sugar pumpkins, a quick fix is to roast a regular pumpkin sprinkled with some cane sugar.” Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer, with a passion for food and beverages. Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage, AK, you can still find her on Twitter @robynalana 11
Go Sweet Or Savoury With Homemade Pie
Salted Caramel Apple Pie
story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN
With an autumn chill in the air, and plenty of golden leaves at our feet, the mind naturally wanders to comfort food. In my mind, this means pie!
Basic Pie Dough
I know that making pie dough is terribly intimidating to some, but I’m here to squash those fears. Once you have this simple dough recipe mastered, you’ll be baking up both savoury and sweet pies in no time.
1. In a large bowl, combine the flour
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Makes 4 portions
5 cups all-purpose flour 2 tsp salt 1½ cups lard, chilled and cubed ¾ cup unsalted butter, chilled and cubed 1 cup (240 mL) ice water 1 tsp (5 mL) vinegar
and the salt. Add lard and butter.
2. Using a pastry blender, cut in the
lard and butter until it resembles coarse meal. It’s okay to have pea-sized bits and some larger pieces of fat remaining.
3. Gradually stir in the ice water and
vinegar until the dough comes together. I like to use a wooden spoon for this.
4. Transfer to a floured work surface
and, using your hands, fold the dough into itself until the flour is fully incorporated into the fat. The dough should come together easily but should not feel overly sticky.
5. Form into a ball, divide into quarters, then flatten each into a 2 cm disk and wrap tightly in plastic wrap.
6. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
Salted Caramel Apple Pie Serves 8
Classic Chicken Pot Pie
7 large apples (combination of Granny Smith and Golden Delicious) peeled, cored, and thinly sliced ½ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup (60 mL) fresh lemon juice 2 tsp grated lemon zest 1½ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground cloves ¼ tsp ground nutmeg ½ cup (120 mL) salted caramel 2 portions Basic Pie Dough 1 egg, beaten with 1 Tbs water to make egg wash
1. Combine all of the filling ingredients together in a large bowl. Toss gently.
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll
dough into a 30 cm circle. Turn dough a quarter turn after every few rolls until you have two 30 cm diameter circles.
3. Carefully place one portion into
a 9x2” pie dish. Tuck it in with your fingers, making sure it is smooth. With a sharp knife, trim the extra overhang of crust a little.
4. Fill pie crust with apple filling, brush
dough edges with egg wash, and top with second dough portion. Press together gently with fingers, and trim any excess dough from edges.
5. Preheat the oven to 400º F. Place
the pie on a baking sheet and bake in the centre of the oven for 20 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375º F and bake another 40-50 minutes until the pie is golden (note: if crust is getting too dark, cover sides with aluminum foil).
6. Remove from the oven and let cool on a wire rack for 3 hours. Serve with extra salted caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream.
Classic Chicken Pot Pie Serves 6-8
4 cups (1 L) chicken stock ½ cup salted butter 2 onions, diced 2 cups carrots, diced 2 cups potatoes, diced 3 garlic cloves, minced ¾ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup (120 mL) whipping cream 2 cups cooked chicken meat 2 cups frozen peas 1 cup frozen corn ½ cup chopped fresh parsley 1 Tbs chopped fresh rosemary 1 Tbs chopped fresh thyme leaves 2 tsp (10 mL) Dijon mustard To taste salt and pepper 1 portion of Basic Pie Dough 1 egg beaten with 1 Tbs water for egg wash
1. Heat chicken stock in a medium saucepan over medium heat.
2. In a Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onions and carrots and cook a few minutes, until onions are translucent. Add potatoes and garlic. Cook another few minutes. Reduce the heat to low, stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
3. Add the hot chicken stock, and
stir for a few minutes until the sauce thickens. Stir in whipping cream. Add the cooked chicken, frozen vegetables, herbs and mustard. Continue cooking for a few minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the filling into a 25 cm baking dish at least 7.5 cm deep, or a 9x13” baking dish.
4. Preheat the oven to 375º F. Place
the rack in the lower third of the oven. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pie dough into a 30 cm round or square, or rectangle. Fold the pie dough in half and carefully place it over the chicken potpie filling. Tuck in the edges. If feeling creative, cut any scraps of pie dough into festive shapes.
5. Brush the top of the pot pie with egg
wash, and cut a few slits. Bake for 50-60 minutes until the top of the chicken potpie is golden. If it is getting too dark, cover with aluminum foil.
6. Remove from the oven and let
cool on a wire rack. Let rest for 20 minutes before serving. Learn to lattice top pies and make salted caramel at culinairemagazine.ca Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club. Also, check out her blog sweetsugarbean.com 13
Pie Cloud
Finding The Perfect Pies In Alberta by DAN CLAPSON and PHIL WILSON photography by DONG KIM and INGRID KUENZEL
Let’s face it, baking is not everyone’s forte, and there is nothing wrong with that. Even the most diligent of recipe followers, after measuring flour impeccably and working mindfully with a batch of dough to get the pie crust “just right” – that golden kind of flakiness – can end up with a botched end result. 14
If you’re not up for putting in a solid kitchen shift at home to make some pies (be them sweet or savoury) for your festive gatherings this fall, then here are four places in Alberta where you are guaranteed to find something well-baked, ready and waiting for the dinner table.
Calgary Pie Cloud
What makes this quirky little spot in Kensington different from the other pie makers in town is that it is more of a pie-focused diner than a pie
shop. Freshly baked pies like banana cream and pecan line the counters when you walk through the doors, but the space boasts plenty of tables and a menu that offers up savoury creations like chicken pot pie, mac and cheese pie (right?), chowder pie and even chicken and waffles (appropriately listed under the “not pie” section). Though there are many quirky items to sink your teeth into here or even sip, like Apple Pie Milkshake, the most unusual of the bunch would have to be their signature
winter is . . . well, you know . . .
warm up with something uniquely prairie eat in, take home, or ubereats!
10350 – 124 Street 780-705-1777 prairienoodleshop.ca
@yegnoodles
“Marshmallow Mermaid Pie.” Orange curd and Blue Curacao liqueur make for a slightly odd, but fun filling in a pie that’s topped with whipped marshmallow. All of which makes for a very memorable dessert course! Recently, Cloud has joined Skip The Dishes, the popular online food ordering system, so all of their offerings, which include sweet and savoury pies by the slice or whole, can be delivered right to your front door. 314 10 St NW, Calgary 403-802-3141, piecloud.ca The Pie Hole
from the usual seasonal suspects like pumpkin or apple, to breakfast galettes (imagine a warm personal-sized quiche with a generous crust) and even Jamaican meat patties. Other savoury pies like the Aussie Beef or Cheese and Onion are baked as individual servings, which makes them ideal for fast, but filling meals during the week if you’re rushing between work and after school activities with the kids. The sweeter pies, on the other hand, should not be rushed at all. After having the first bite of a pie filled with silky smooth coconut cream or a pleasantly tart sour cherry filling, you’ll want to savour each forkful of pie until there’s nothing left on your plate except for a few crumbs. Maybe have another slice. 8 Spruce Center SW, Calgary 403-452-3960, thepiehole.ca
Edmonton Duchess Bake Shop
One of Alberta’s most well-known dessert shops, Duchess may not be at the top of your list when it comes to pie. I mean this in the nicest way
possible, but it’s time to rethink your priorities! It’s so easy to walk into the gorgeous French-inspired bakeshop and become immediately enamoured by fanciful delicacies, all laid out before you in the long glass cases that wrap around the room. The bubbly staff may box up some salted caramel macarons, maybe an éclair or two, and definitely a croissant... you really can’t go wrong with those selections, but it’s time you discovered that they also have the very best pies. There’s always a seasonal pie to pique your interest: Saskatoon, blueberry crumble, or strawberry rhubarb are all solid options when they’re in stock. The ones that you find in the case year-round are chosen for a reason: Duchess sour cream and cherry pie is easily the best pie in the city, with sweet and tart cherries bursting under a lattice of perfectly flaky crust. Banana cream pie is light and creamy, with delicately piped whipped cream sitting atop delicious banana custard and banana slices. And while not a traditional pie, the rhubarb galettes are perfect for freeform, out of the pie-tin thinkers. 10718 124 St NW, Edmonton 780-488-4999, duchessbakeshop.com Duchess Bake Shop
Pie Hole It’s probably somewhat of a good thing that Pie Hole is in a bit of an obscure location, tucked into a strip mall on a road in the Shaganappi neighbourhood, because walking by the shop while baking is taking place is a hard smell to ignore. Butter and flour join forces to create beautiful, indulgent crusts for all types of pie-type creations here, 16
Vi’s for Pies
Vi’s for Pies
If you were judging the quality of a pie shop by the number of grandmas who frequent it, then Vi’s is truly top notch! Thankfully, you don’t need a senior’s card to enjoy a slice of Vi’s pie, just a sweet tooth and a willful disregard of calories. Nestled in the Glenora neighbourhood, the atmosphere is cozy, and there are enough pies in the front case to have you second and third-guessing your choices. The pie options rotate on a fairly regular basis, so if they don’t have what you’re looking for, try something new and then come back again the next week to try something else. The flapper pie is a solid choice, with a graham cracker crust supporting the creamy filling and piles of fluffy meringue. The key lime pie is light and tart, and the perfect way to end a hearty meal (Vi’s also has a full lunch/dinner menu). When the only thing on your mind is a rich, decadent pie, then you absolutely need to go with the peanut butter mousse pie. It’s a mountain of smooth, peanut-infused mousse on top of a chocolate Rice Krispie square crust. Heaven. 13408 Stoney Plain Rd NW, Edmonton, 780-454-4300
Spice it Up:
Mashed squash and potatoes with kale
Potato Side Dishes by KARLYNN JOHNSTON
The turkey is roasting to a golden crisp, the cranberries have been relished or jellied, and it’s time to deal with the other famous Thanksgiving staple: potatoes. While almost everyone loves a simple side of mashed potatoes, there are so many ways to spice up this beloved holiday root vegetable. So, let’s all take an oath to go a bit more out-of-the-box this year and really impress our dinner guests! Scalloped Potatoes
I’m sure that everyone’s Mom has the best scalloped potatoes in town, but this tried-and-true holiday side dish is so easy to jazz up. Using some flavourful additions can turn scalloped potatoes from a slightly ho-hum dish into a new holiday favourite. Try: –– Bolder flavoured cheese, such as gorgonzola or blue –– Your favourite pesto, mixed in with the cheese sauce –– Ground beef and salsa for a Mexican twist –– Diced ham, bacon or pancetta –– Roasted garlic, sun dried tomatoes and olives 18
Smashed Potatoes
Smashed or crash potatoes are the latest craze. It involves simply boiling baby potatoes, smashing them flat, then cooking them to a soft crisp on a baking sheet in a high heat oven. The flavour combination possibilities are almost endless with topping choices. Think of them as starchy, gluten-free edible canvases that anyone can enjoy! Try: –– Butter and minced garlic –– Truffle salt and a touch of truffle oil –– Parmesan and parsley –– Soy sauce and sriracha
Mashed Potatoes
You can’t go wrong with the classic combination of butter, milk, and a dash of the water that the potatoes boiled in, but there are so many other things you can add to the mix. Try: –– A couple of dashes of a robust spice mix like garam masala or za’atar. Beautifully aromatic. –– Heavy cream instead of milk (who’s counting calories anyway?) –– Roasted garlic and chopped scallions –– Fresh dill or finely chopped fresh rosemary –– Sour cream or cream cheese for richness and tanginess –– Garlicky and creamy Boursin cheese –– Squash and kale
Baked Potatoes
Baked potatoes are at their most impressive when twice baked: scooping out the soft interior, mixing with an array of spices, and then refilling the shells with the flavourful mixture and topping with cheese. You then bake the potatoes again to reheat, resulting in a cheesy, starchy treat. Cheddar cheese and bacon will never lead your taste buds astray, but here are some other ways to jazz up a simple baked potato using creative ingredients for the filling. Try: –– Blue cheese and honey –– Homemade chilli and smoked mozzarella –– Chimichurri and ground pork –– Good quality shrimp, crab meat, or smoked salmon with cream cheese
Mini Fully Loaded Smashed Potato Bites Makes 2-3 dozen potato bites Prep Time 60 minutes
Consider these the miniature potato portions the love child of a baked potato and a smashed potato. Easy to make, and even easier to impress with, they work well as an appetizer for any casual get-together and make for a memorable side dish for a more proper holiday dinner. 2-3 dozen baby potatoes, boiled until soft 4-5 Tbs (60-75 mL) olive oil 1-2 tsp seasoning salt 2 cups (500 mL) sour cream 6-7 slices of bacon, cooked and crumbled 1-2 cups of shredded cheese 3-4 green onions, chopped
1. Pre-heat oven to 450º F. 2. Line 2 baking pans with parchment paper. Brush olive oil over the parchment paper.
3. Place potatoes on baking sheet
and gently flatten them using a potato masher, making sure to try and keep them together. Repeat, keeping potatoes approximately 1 cm apart until you have all the potatoes on the baking sheets, then drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with seasoning salt.
4. Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes or until browned and very crispy. Remove and cool slightly.
5. Top each potato with sour cream, bacon, cheese and green onions. Place on a serving plate and let everyone help themselves.
Full-time blogger, baker and recipe maker, Karlynn can be found fluffing her culinary feathers on her awardwinning website, TheKitchenMagpie.com. Follow her on Twitter @kitchenmagpie.
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Soup Kitchen story and photography by DAN CLAPSON
Before the tacky ghost and ghoul decorations pop up in anticipation for Halloween, October usually spooks us with a couple of snowfalls and below zero temperatures. Yes, my friends, winter is on its way, and that means it is just as important to feel as warm and cozy around the dinner table as you feel when you put on that snowsuit before heading out to work.
Maybe I’m being a bit dramatic, but at any rate, here are two comforting soup recipes you can look forward to cooking when you aren’t looking forward to going outside.
Roasted Brussels Sprout, Bacon and Squash Soup and cool. Once residual fat in the pot cools, transfer to a small bowl and mix together with maple syrup.
3. Place Brussels sprouts and squash
on a baking sheet (or two), place garlic bulb in tinfoil, and drizzle all liberally with the bacon fat and syrup mixture. Cover the bulb completely in tinfoil and let everything roast in the oven.
4. After 20 minutes, the Brussels
sprouts should be nicely caramelized and the squash tender. Remove from oven and let the garlic continue to roast for another 20 minutes, then remove and allow to cool.
5. Scoop out the flesh of the squash Serves 5-6 Total prep and cook time 1 hour 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil 6 pieces thick cut bacon, finely diced 16 fresh Brussels sprouts, quartered 2 Tbs (30 mL) maple syrup 1 large acorn squash, halved and seeds removed 1 bulb garlic, halved 2 cups (480 mL) water ¼ cup (60 mL) white wine 6 cups (1.5 L) vegetable broth 2 tsp ground turmeric 20
Preheat oven to 375º degrees.
into a blender, add water and wine and puree until very smooth. Place puree into a pot with remaining ingredients, bring to a simmer on medium heat, and let cook for 20 minutes, uncovered.
1. Heat canola oil in a large pot on
6. Squeeze out roasted garlic from
1 tsp ground ginger ½ tsp cinnamon ½ tsp chili flakes To taste salt and pepper
medium-high heat, add bacon and cook until it’s well-browned and just starting to crisp up, about 6-8 minutes.
2. Remove from heat, transfer bacon
to paper towel to absorb excess grease,
bulb, give a quick chop and add to the pot along with the pre-cooked bacon and roasted Brussels sprouts. Let cook for another 5 minutes and then season to taste. Serve with warm, buttered bread to feel extra cozy and satiated.
The Ultimate Turkey Dinner Leftovers Soup Topping:
Serves 6 Total prep and cook time 25 minutes
2½ cups leftover stuffing ½ cup finely grated parmesan cheese ¼ cup (60 mL) heavy cream
Soup: 8 cups turkey broth (chicken broth will do just fine if you aren’t a “make stock with my leftover turkey bones” sort of person) 1 cup mashed potatoes ½ cup (120 mL) gravy ½ cup (120 mL) red wine 1 cup cooked carrots (1 cm sliced) 1 cup finely chopped turkey meat 1 tsp dried rosemary
Place ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well. To serve: Preheat oven to low broil. Ladle soup out into 6 heat-safe bowls or large ramekins, leaving about 1 cm from the top of the bowl or ramekin. Top with stuffing mixture and bake in oven until top has turned golden brown, approximately 6-8 minutes.
1. Place broth, potatoes, gravy and
wine into a pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat. Use an immersion blender to puree contents until silky smooth.
2. Reduce to medium heat, add
See? Isn’t that the most fun way you’ve had turkey dinner leftovers? I thought so!
remaining ingredients and let cook until it has thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Keep warm on stove until ready to serve.
Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside
TAYLOR FLADGATE 20 YEAR TAWNY PORT
"BEST IN CLASS" FORTIFIED WINES “An opulent and voluptuous nose of spicy,
jammy and nutty aromas with a very rich, concentrated long finish.” T O F I N D A R E TA I L E R V I S I T L I Q U O R C O N N E C T. C O M / 1 4 9 0 4 7
:: the results of the 2016 ::
alberta beverage awards by TOM FIRTH, COMPETITION DIRECTOR
When we launched the Alberta Beverage Awards in 2013, we wanted to celebrate the widest beverage selection in Canada. This year, we have something new to celebrate – the excellent beverages made right here in Alberta. 22
Since the rules were changed a few years ago removing the minimum production limits for craft producers, we’ve seen a tremendous boost in locally made drinks. Dozens upon dozens of products from local craft brewers line our liquor store shelves; craft distilling is taking off, and we should be seeing more mead and cottage wineries taking the plunge in the coming months and years. It’s a great time to be an Albertan who wants to enjoy and support locally made beverages. This year’s competition saw a bit of growth over last year, we saw nearly 750 entries representing nearly 30 different countries (including products from across Canada). Nearly 500 wines, and almost 250 beers and spirits were judged at the
Hotel Blackfoot in Calgary by 19 expert palates, representing some of the finest in Alberta’s beverage trade. Retailers, restaurateurs, sommeliers, educators, and journalists converged for 3 days in July to blind taste, assess, and evaluate each entry. The following pages are the results of all that hard work. In each category there is a “Best in Class”, which is the top performing wine in its category, followed by “Judges’ Selection” which are the other high performing wines in the category. In most categories, there is also a “Top Value”, which is a Judges’ Selection wine that has been identified by the Culinaire editors as providing excellent value. Each listed wine has an approximate retail price – when possible. We’ve tried to overestimate the price you
The 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards Judges We couldn’t run this competition without the very best in judges. Drawn from among the best and brightest in the province, we tap into sommeliers, restaurateurs, retailers and journalists who share their passion and expertise during three arduous days in a windowless ballroom in July (talk about dedication). We rely on our judges to assess wines fairly, and be able to share within their panels their experience with typicity, and to find among every wine, beer, and spirit in every flight – the very best to print. are likely to see on the shelf, but every retailer is different, and there are a few recent changes to pricing structures that may affect listed prices. Each product also has a “CSPC” number, which can be used to help you find it at your local retailer or online at Liquorconnect.com. Some products also have a symbol after them to identify an entry that not only did well this year, but also in previous years, indicating that this product is not only good, but also consistently good, year after year. Producing a reputable competition involves a tremendous amount of work, and our success wouldn’t be possible without the efforts and focus of everyone involved. Special thanks to the Import Vintners & Spirits Association,
Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance, Liquor Connect, Len Steinberg, our hardworking judges, and our volunteer wine stewards; Mairi, Patricia, Paul, Patrick, Danielle, Darrin, and Lana who return year after year, bringing professional and can-do attitudes that are very welcome on some long days where we sweat a lot of the small details. A big thank you to Jason Dziver, our talented photographer who photographs the entire competition – including all the bottle shots – and manages to make our judges look photogenic. Thanks again to the Hotel Blackfoot, who have been a great venue for the competition since the beginning. We are pleased to share that we will be there for a few more years yet!
Tom Firth Competition Director, Culinaire Magazine
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Pale Ales North American Pale Ales tend to share some similarities with their bigger sibling, the IPA. Both tend to be hop-forward beers, but pale ales tend to be considerably less so, therefore allowing the malt characteristics to play a larger role. This is somewhat of a generality though, and there are many variations of pale ales in our market; some possessing complex malt character including biscuit, toffee and caramel notes, and others being as hoppy as the biggest West Coast IPAs. With a style as diverse as this, it is always interesting to taste them and get an idea of different breweries’ interpretations of the style. Winning this category was Bench Creek’s Naked Woodsman Pale Ale. It is gently balanced between the subtle caramel and grapefruit aromas and flavours; both playing a leading role, but never fighting for dominance of your palate. Having also taken the IPA category this year, it definitely seems like Bench Creek has a handle on the various iterations of Pale Ales. Kirk Bodnar BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Bench Creek Naked Woodsman Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $13-15 (4 pack cans) CSPC 781866
Alley Kat Full Moon Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 903922 Brewsters Rig Pig Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 770045 Stanley Park Windstorm Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 767282
Wheat Beers Wheat beers are quite an interesting category, mostly because of the different styles based on the breweries preference and where they hail from. There are several types of wheat beers available on the Alberta market and depending on the season you tend to see more variety. The Best in Class for the wheat beer category was Alley Kat’s Lemon Hefeweisen. This was kind of a mutant in the category as it was hard to specify if it was a hefe or a wit due to the lemon it is brewed with, but as a wheat beer it was superior in every way, with banana and cloves but also the spice and citrus, and not too much fruit. Great job Alley Kat. Dave Gingrich BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Alley Kat Lemon Hefeweizen Alberta, Canada $9-10 (4 pack bottles) CSPC 779125
Something Brewing The White Wit Alberta, Canada $16-19 (4 pack cans) CSPC 774925
Russell Brewing White Rabbit Canada $8 (650ml) CSPC 394650 Dandy Une Vieille Maitresse Alberta, Canada $9 (650ml) CSPC 783598 (brewery only) Village Wit Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 768798 Big Rock Grasshopper Wheat Ale Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 761144
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Gluten Free & Saisons About 15 years ago in Alberta, if you wanted to drink glutenfree beer you had exactly one choice. Since then, your options have multiplied significantly. Partly in deference to celiacs, partly due to those who choose low-gluten or gluten-free diets, the number of breweries brewing these beers has grown. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s produced with gluten-free grains or by some other method, there are now a wide variety of beers available for those who are interested in, or can only drink, this kind of beer. To say their drinkability has also improved would be an understatement. Many are unrecognizable from regular grain beers, which is the biggest compliment one can give this style. With the increase in the number of breweries worldwide, it follows there comes a greater variety of beer. Brewmasters are now resurrecting long ignored beer styles or creating weird and wonderful hybrids of multiple styles. Saisons, a farmhouse ale, all but disappeared everywhere except Europe, has enjoyed a renaissance lately thanks to North American craft breweries. Its unique yeast creates a spicy, refreshing beer. David Nuttall
Gluten Free BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Glutenberg Blanche Ale Canada $18-19 (4 pack cans) CSPC 781363
Glutenberg IPA Canada $18-19 (4 pack cans) CSPC 765547 Whistler Brewing Forager Gluten Free Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 430652
Saison BEST IN CLASS Deep Cove Sun Kissed Tea Saison Canada $7-8 (650ml) CSPC 528505 JUDGES SELECTION Canuck Empire Sunrise to Sunset Saison Canada $5-7 (650ml) CSPC 780361
LEGACY 2012 IS NOW AVAILABLE
India Pale Ales The India Pale Ale (IPA) as a style, is still the king of the craft beer castle – and truly has been for the last number of years. Many styles have become increasingly popular as of late (take Sours, Saison, or even the previously obscure but now über-hot Berliner Weisse, or Gose styles, which every brewery seems to have taken a shot at recently), but for now, IPA still reigns supreme as the most commonly ordered craft beer. Because of this, it is easy to see why over 80 percent of craft breweries include an IPA as a part of their regular line-up (often as their flagship beer). This fact was very evident at this year’s competition, as the IPA category had, by far, the most beers entered, making it the most hotly contested beer category at the Alberta Beverage Awards this year. Coming out on top was relative newcomer, Bench Creek Brewing’s White Raven IPA. It has a luscious citrus and tropical hop aroma with hints of pine. This is balanced nicely with a subtle, yet significant malt backbone with elements of toast and caramel. Bench Creek definitely stood out from the crowd, which is no small feat in such a truly crowded category. Kirk Bodnar BEST IN CLASS Bench Creek Brewing White Raven India Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $16-19 (4 pack cans) CSPC 783190
JUDGES SELECTION Brewsters Honest Paul IPA Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 780020
Something Brewing Hop Bomb IPA Alberta, Canada $8-9 (4 pack cans) CSPC 766649
Grizzly Paw Evolution Alberta, Canada $12-13 (4 pack cans) CSPC 770045
Red Collar IPA Canada $6-7 (650ml) CSPC 779074
Wild Rose Brewery IPA Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 766763
Ribstone Creek Lone Bison India Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack cans) CSPC 767328
Russell Brewing Punch Bowl North West IPA Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 778809
:: Kirk Bodnar :: Beers N’ Such Consulting 26
Lagers and Pilsners Lagers may have been born in central Europe, but they are now brewed in almost every country on earth, usually by some mammoth multi-national brewing corporation. In North America, the common Big Brewery Lager developed in the 19th century still dominates beer sales almost everywhere, especially in this hemisphere. Because of this, when craft breweries were born about 30 years ago, they almost completely avoided brewing lagers. However, now that craft beer has made some solid inroads throughout the land, craft lager has become a beer of note. They are different from the Big Beers not only by eschewing rice, corn and other adjuncts, but also by brewing beers that pay homage to the more traditional European versions. Pilsner (or Pils) is one of these favourites, because their use of noble or Saaz hops creates a more flavourful beer. David Nuttall
Pilsner JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
Stanley Park Noble Pilsner Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 135962
Nelson Brewing Hooligan Organic Pilsner Canada $18-21 (6 pack cans) CSPC 782761
Lager JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
Singha Lager Thailand $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 676395
Brewsters Original Lager Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 776261
Innis & Gunn Lager Beer United Kingdom $4-5 (500ml) CSPC 763623
Something Brewing Dark Side Schwarzbier Alberta, Canada $8-10 (4 pack cans) CSPC 766643 Wild Rose Brewery Electric Avenue Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 766771
:: Dave Nuttall :: Alberta Beer Festivals, Epicurious Calgary 27
Italian Reds Italian reds to me always have a certain “Italian line” through the centre of them. The wines can be modern or rustic, but regardless of style, a good Italian red always smells like it is from Italy. Whether it be the sour cherry-Jolly Rancher of Valpolicella, or the tomato leaf savouriness of Chianti, these are wines that inherently express a place through aromas. Italian reds were broken down in tasting into three categories; Veneto Blends, Sangiovese/Tuscany, and Other Italian Varietals. Kurt DaSilva
Veneto Blends Veneto is most famous for Prosecco, but I believe Valpolicella and Amarone are nearly as well known. Valpolicella is a very useful wine in regards to pairing with food as it is made in many styles. Look for young examples to mimic good Cru Beaujolais and Ripasso examples as the obvious younger sibling of Amarone. Look for raised alcohol to understand how closely your Valpolicella will mimic Amarone as the higher the alcohol the more Amarone it will be. Amarone is a real hate it or love it wine, but if you pair it with something like braised beef and still don’t enjoy it you might not like wine at all. Kurt DaSilva BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Giusti 2012 Valpolicella Ripasso Veneto, Italy $40-43 CSPC 767318
Sartori 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Veneto, Italy $48-50 CSPC 759244 Brigaldara 2011 Amarone Classico Veneto, Italy $60-65 CSPC 739714
Sangiovese/Tuscany Tuscan wines have the power to immediately evoke the smells of Tuscany. There are aromas of tomato leaves and sage, olives and thyme, and rosemary. Sangiovese is a bit of a chameleon, but when vinified gently and not manipulated too much it is one of the truly great wines of the world. Look for Chianti Classico as a better guarantee of quality. This means it is from the original, much smaller demarcated zone that was first created in 1776. Here is where you will find surprisingly complex examples of Chianti. Kurt DaSilva BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
Rocca delle Macie 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany, Italy $25-27 CSPC 296129
Piccini 2014 “Orange Label” Chianti Tuscany, Italy $14-15 CSPC 639732 JUDGES SELECTION San Felice 2011 Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany, Italy $25 CSPC 310490
:: Kurt DaSilva :: Teatro Group 28
Antinori Pèppoli 2013 Chianti Classico Tuscany, Italy $24-25 CSPC 606541
Italian Reds (continued) Other Italian Varietals Here is where it gets interesting with varieties and zones that are much less well known. The Alto-Adige is better known for crisp aromatic whites but there are a small number of very impressive reds now available here in Alberta. The Alto Adige borders Austria and there is a certain fresh alpine element to all quality wines from here. Teroldego makes for a very dark wine that manages to remain fresh and bright on the palate. Nero d’Avola is an increasingly popular wine and the most important red grape in Sicily. It smells as if you’ve fallen into a blackberry bush, and has a certain pepper aroma and flavour that will make it popular with shiraz drinkers. Negroamaro is typically from Puglia, near the village of Salento. These grapes are grown so close the sea that there is a marked salinity in good examples. This salinity makes them amazing food wines as you can think of them as seasoning for dishes. Paired with something already salty and they are overwhelming and unpleasant, but any red meat cooked slowly will go very well with the examples below. Kurt DaSilva TOP VALUE
BEST IN CLASS
Mezzomondo 2014 Negroamaro Puglia, Italy $11-12 CSPC 713694
Cavit Bottega Vinai 2012 Teroldego Rotaliano Trentino, Italy $18 CSPC 775576
JUDGES SELECTION Marabino 2011 Noto Sicily, Italy $25-26 CSPC 764072
ALBERTA BEVERAGE
AWARD WINNERS 2016 FORTIFY YOUR SEASON WITH THE BEST
BEST IN CLASS TAYLOR FLADGATE 20 YEAR TAWNY FORTIFIED | 149047
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Cabernet Sauvignon Of the flights worked through at this year’s awards, not one was more consistent with wines of high quality than that of the noble cabernet sauvignon. This success wasn't simply limited to the United States, where Napa and Sonoma are the reigning monarchs of cabernet. We also saw wines from Argentina and Chile that have adopted this style at sometimes fractions of the price. Their challenge is made doubly difficult to craft wines that represent varietal and terroir character while still being approachable and easy to drink in their youth. This year’s Best in Class was the 2013 Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, California whose classic characteristics of rich black berry fruit with elegant oak carried it to the top. Have your decanter ready and give it some time to breathe as you are braising your beef short ribs or grilling up a rack of lamb. Adrian Bryksa BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
Liberty School 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles, California $20-23 CSPC 807461
Mascota Vineyards 2012 La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza, Argentina $16-17 CSPC 758058 JUDGES SELECTION Louis M. Martini 2013 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California $21 CSPC 742056 Columbia Crest 2013 H3 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, United States $18 CSPC 748004 Jim Barry 2013 Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley, Australia $20-22 CSPC 578450 Bridlewood 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles, California $16-18 CSPC 760492 Montgras Intriga 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo, Chile $25 CSPC 725356 Rodney Strong Vineyards 2013 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, California $30-32 CSPC 725352
:: Adrian Bryksa :: YYC Wine.com
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Monte Xanic 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Valle de Guadalupe Baja, Mexico $32 CSPC 784417
GREATNESS IN A GLASS
Deep Cove Sun Kissed Tea Saison Canada
Chateau de L’Annonciation 2010 St Emillion Bordeaux, France
Hengst Pinot Gris 2008 Alsace Grand Cru Alsace, France
desireeimports.com
Chateau Denisiane 2008 Pomerol Bordeaux, France
Deep Cove Lookout Session Ale Canada
/desireeimports
WINNER OF
4
JUDGES CHOICE AWARDS
Stouts & Porters and Belgian Darks This is a category that is so often enjoyed in the evening or when we get to the cooler months-only because these are the darkest and heaviest of beers, with the robust coffee and chocolate flavours that sometimes finish sweet and other times, dry and nutty. The key to the colour in these brews is all in the amount of charred barley malt which usually has a very bitter dry coffee taste and a black colour. To balance out the sweetness to dryness depends on the amount of pale and lightly toasted and crystal malts. Belgian dark ales, as well as dubbels and tripels, also rely on this malt richness, with similar hops as their British counterparts use for porters and stouts. The main difference lies in the uniqueness of the Belgian yeast and, with sugar added frequently, these beers are spicier, with a noticeable sweetness, and often a higher alcohol content. Then you get beers like our winner, which was a Belgian dubbel brown ale, which has a rich complex maltiness and dark colour. Nice one Red Collar Brewing. Dave Gingrich BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Red Collar Dubbel Canada; $7-8 (650ml) CSPC 855320
Dandy Brewing Company The Dandy in the Underworld Oyster Stout Alberta, Canada $9 (650ml) CSPC 776681 Brewsters Hawaiian Coconut Porter Alberta, Canada $7-8 (650ml) CSPC 776267
Gulden Draak Belgian Dark Tripel Belgium $5 (330ml) CSPC 740171 Courage Imperial Russian Stout 2012 Vintage United Kingdom $5 (275ml) CSPC 753974
:: Dave Gingrich :: Willow Park Wines & Spirits
Tempranillo Tempranillo is the noble grape of Spain and represents terrific value at all price points. The wines tasted were of several styles – from fresh and lively with tons of red berry fruit, to barrel-aged Riojas that revealed the classic cherry, leather and tobacco characteristics. One of the best characteristics of tempranillo is that they are very versatile when it comes to food. They pair well with most meat-based dishes (particularly lamb), grilled fare, charcuterie, pizza, robust fish flavours and much more. With their solid structure, medium body, lovely fruit, lively acidity and affordability, these wines are a welcome addition at any table. Bruce Soley BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
Torres 2012 Altos Ibericos Rioja, Spain $18 CSPC 735882
:: Bruce Soley :: River Café 32
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 2011 Candidato La Mancha, Spain; $13 CSPC 758460 JUDGES SELECTION Bodegas Alvear 2015 Alange Ribera del Guadiana, Spain $16 CSPC 779673 Bodegas Bohedal 2009 Gran Bohedal Reserva Rioja, Spain; $20-22 CSPC 778340
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Fruit Beers There are few beer styles that invoke thoughts of hot summer days on a patio quite like fruit beers. Imagine biting into a ripe peach, or a refreshingly tart grapefruit. When beer can emulate this, it can be a thing of beauty. This year we had a tie for top spot. Stanley Park’s Sun Setter Summer Ale and Village Brewery’s Village Squeeze Lemon Berry Helles both tempted our palates with their fruity delights. Despite tying in this category, both beers are very distinct from each other and have taken a very different approach. The Sun Setter Summer Ale had tons of peach and apricot aroma and flavor, with a pleasantly sweet, but not cloying finish – a fruit bomb for sure. The Village Squeeze had a subtler citrus and raspberry aroma with a nicely balanced fruit/malt character. Less over-the-top fruit flavour, but just as crushable. I don’t doubt that both of these beers have been patio favourites this summer (at least whenever it wasn’t raining…). Kirk Bodnar BEST IN CLASS (TIE)
JUDGES SELECTION
Stanley Park Sun Setter Summer Ale Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 771574
Grizzly Paw Beavertail Raspberry Ale Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 764785
Village Squeeze Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 780537
Mill Street Lemon Tea Ale Canada $3-4 (473ml can) CSPC 779627 Pêche Mel Scaldis Belgium $4-5 (330 ml bottle) CSPC 161547
Mead It turns out the eastern slopes and foothills of the Rockies provide the perfect playground for bees. The abundance of wildflowers, clover, alfalfa, canola, and other vegetation keep the bees happy. As a result, Alberta produces about 45 percent of Canada’s honey. As a bonus, we also get a great variety of honey wine-better known as mead. There are three meaderies within one hour of Calgary and one close to Edmonton currently in operation, and expect to see more on the way. Collectively, they make over four dozen different meads ranging from sweet to dry. Some have added fruit, others have spices. There are even some that taste surprisingly like red wine. Mead can be quite versatile, and a large proportion of what we have available to drink here is produced in Alberta. So try a taste; their quality and variety may “bee” a revelation. David Nuttall BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Spirit Hills Saskwatch Alberta, Canada $23 CSPC 758136
Spirit Hills Dande Alberta, Canada $23 CSPC 756234 Spirit Hills Wild Rosy Alberta, Canada $23 CSPC 756235 Chinook Arch Summer Sassation Mead Alberta, Canada $23 CSPC 759858 Spirit Hills YeeHaa! Alberta, Canada $23 CSPC 773294
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Bordeaux Blends Hailing from any wine region and made from varying amounts of the classic Bordeaux varieties of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot, malbec and perhaps carmenere. Bordeaux blends can vary greatly and are often polarizing. There was much discussion amongst the judges to determine what wines best represent value and quality within the category. The characteristic markers of elegance, structure, integrated tannins, black fruit, pencil lead, and leather were represented across the board. Quality was generally good while the two wines tied for best in class offer the complete package and demonstrate the two most complex and balanced examples tasted. Being from two different regions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Tuscany and Bordeaux â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it is excellent proof that this style of wine is able to excel under varying circumstances. Margaux Burgess
JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS (TIE)
Chateau Denisiane 2008 Pomerol Bordeaux, France $50-52 CSPC 747512
Chateau de L'Annonciation 2010 St Emillion Bordeaux, France $48-50 CSPC 747810
Burrowing Owl 2012 Meritage Okanagan Valley, Canada $58-60 CSPC 20073
Tolaini 2010 Picconero Tuscany, Italy $85-88 CSPC 729206
Giusti 2009 Umberto I Veneto, Italy $115-120 CSPC 778802 Giusti 2014 Antonio Veneto, Italy $40-42 CSPC 783189 Poplar Grove 2012 The Legacy Okanagan Valley, Canada $50 CSPC 674580
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Rosé Rosé is always such a pleasure to drink; even on the rainiest of days it can brighten your mood and bring a celebratory sense to a simple salad or a juicy burger. Its versatility is really what makes it unique, a bridge between white and red wine with a zippy edge of acidity that makes it an easy match for a wide variety of dishes. Alternatively, food is not necessarily required as these fresh, quaffable wines are delicious on their own all year round. We saw a wide range of styles this year, from the very pale, delicate Provençal to a more intense, deeply coloured Washington State rosé. These all have a time and place, but balance is always in question when it comes to deciding which ones stand out amongst their peers. The French have mastered the art of producing rosé with delicacy, balance of acidity and dryness, and beautiful expression of grape variety. Luckily for consumers, the Alberta market offers hundreds of wines in the rosé category, so there is a style for every palate, get out to your favourite wine shop or restaurant and get drinking pink! Jackie Cooke BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE Spier 2015 Signature Rosé Western Cape, South Africa $14 CSPC 773107
Domaine Houchart 2015 Rosé Provence, France $18 CSPC 738568
JUDGES SELECTION Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2015 Parallele 45 Rhone, France $18 CSPC 871756 Borsao 2015 Rosé Campo de Borja, Spain $15 CSPC 736017
:: Jackie Cooke :: Avec Bistro 2016 Panel Captain
M. Chapoutier 2015 Tavel Rosé Beaurevoir Tavel, France $25 CSPC 936061
Fruit Wine
Alberta’s fruit wine industry is small, but growing. Since the cottage winery legislation was passed in 2005, a few producers across the province have been making wine from the various fruits that grow here, from rhubarb and raspberries to blackcurrants and saskatoons. There are a handful of meads/honey wines being made here, too. While there weren’t many entries in the fruit wine category, the ones here were representative of the quality that Alberta’s fruit wines can achieve, with a purity of fruit that tastes clean and fresh—the raspberry wine tasted wonderfully of fresh raspberries, and so on. Many fruit wines are dry but some have some residual sugar; both styles appeared in this category, and were well-made in all cases. Here’s hoping that future years will see growth in Alberta’s own homegrown wines. Mel Priestley BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION Field Stone 2015 Raspberry Fruit Wine Alberta, Canada $19-20 CSPC 750750
Field Stone 2015 Black Currant Fruit Wine Alberta, Canada $19-20 CSPC 783516 36
Field Stone 2015 Cherry Fruit Wine Alberta, Canada $19-20 CSPC 750748
Malbec It is no wonder that malbec is one of the top selling varietals in our province. Typically, with silky tannins over a velvety and plump texture of deep fruit concentration and a full mouth feel, it is quite simply-easy to drink. We Albertans love these big reds with our Alberta beef. Low acid and low astringency with a vivacious personality, malbec holds well in new oak and is bold enough to handle the heavy seasoning. But they really shine if you allow to be themselves in a pure expression. The malbecs below all feature that pure dark colour, blue and black berry notes and the signature violet, floral aroma that make it so exciting. You won’t be disappointed by any of these lush and beautiful malbecs. Mike Roberts TOP VALUE
BEST IN CLASS
Mascota Vineyards 2013 La Mascota Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $17 CSPC 754968
El Esteco Michel Torino 2013 Don David Malbec Calchaqui Valley, Argentina $17 CSPC 774961
JUDGES SELECTION Finca Las Moras 2012 PAZ [Peace] Malbec San Juan, Argentina $18-19 CSPC 766490 Alamos 2013 Seleccion Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $18 CSPC 752462 Trapiche 2013 Broquel Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $18 CSPC 732871 Kaiken 2013 Ultra Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $23 CSPC 723333
Moscato – All Types
Moscato for some is a bit of a guilty pleasure, most examples have more than a little residual sweetness and might be a little on the “flirty” side of wine rather than the serious side, but one thing they really have is pure deliciousness. The ones our judges selected for these pages are still very fresh and summery, but also have a level of balance that means if you like the style, you should try these ones out. Tom Firth JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
Salton NV Intenso Moscato Bubbles Serra Gaucha, Brazil $16-19 CSPC 758327 Yalumba 2015 Christobel's Moscato Barossa Valley, Australia $15 CSPC 775498
Banrock Station 2015 Moscato South Australia, Australia $12 CSPC 774490 37
Before & After The Meal Aperitifs and Digestifs We did have a few products this year that didn’t really fit into the typical categories we normally have at the Alberta Beverage Awards, but certainly rose to the top in their flights. Enjoyed before or after the meal typically, we have a Pineau des Charentes, which, if you aren’t familiar with it, it is a grape “juice” fortified with brandy. Very enjoyable, it can be enjoyed neat or in cocktails. Vermouth, our Judges Selection, is a wine that is fortified with the addition of a spirit, but also aromatized with the addition of herbs or other botanicals. Tom Firth BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Hardy Coq D'Or Blanc Pineau des Charentes France $25-30 CSPC 776421
Cocchi Storico Vermouth di Torino Italy $39 CSPC 759529
Fortified Wine Oh what a treat this category was! Fortified wines start the same way as any other wine, but then a neutral spirit is added to the mix during fermentation. The high alcohol addition stops the fermentation in its tracks, leaving a little sugar unconsumed by the yeast in these delicious, slightly-sweet elixirs. Our unanimous champion was the breathtaking Taylor Fladgate 20-year-old Tawny Port. With aromas and flavours of almond, walnut, blackberry, orange rind and mineral, you could tell two decades of time had worked its wonders. Off-dry, with a peppery, spicy finish, it is a wine of contemplation. Well done. Darren Oleksyn BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny Port Douro, Portugal $65 CSPC 149047
Barros LBV Douro, Portugal $25-27 CSPC 735610 Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Port Douro, Portugal $25 CSPC 46946 Fonseca 10 Year Old Tawny Port Douro, Portugal $35 CSPC 344101 Fonseca Terra Prima Organic Reserve Port Douro, Portugal $34 CSPC 726119
:: Darren Oleksyn :: Calgary Herald 38
Before & After The Meal (continued) After Dinner Wines It really is a crime that dessert wines do not get the place of prominence on the dinner table that they once did. Made with exacting standards and time-tested methods, these are some of the best value wines on the planet. As to be expected, the Canadian icewine entrants showed well and we were pleased to find that we had a good breadth of style across the category. Our Best in Class was one of the finest wines of the competition. The marvelously intense Alvear PX Solera 1927 is not vintage dated but comes from a solera aging system that was begun in 1927. Through yearly replenishment of the wine made from the pedro ximinez (PX) grape the barrels never become empty. Over time the newer wine will take on the characteristics of the older wine. The soul of 1927 is present in every glass. When visiting the region, which is in one of the hottest areas of Spain, it is not uncommon to have an ounce or two poured over vanilla ice cream. Is there a more civilized way to end a meal? Margaux Burgess JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
Whistler 2014 Viognier Icewine Okanagan Valley, Canada $54-56 CSPC TBD
Alvear PX Solera 1927 NV Montilla, Spain $28-32 CSPC 724804
Domaines Paul Jaboulet AĂŽnĂŠ 2013 Muscat Beaumes de Venise Rhone, France $23-25 CSPC 779030 Whistler 2014 Riesling Icewine Okanagan Valley, Canada $54-56 CSPC TBD Takasago NV Plum Sake Ume Japan $38-40 CSPC 768497 Giusti 2011 Passito Bianco Veneto, Italy $47 CSPC 767181 Field Stone 2015 Wild Black Cherry Dessert Wine Alberta, Canada $19 CSPC 750753
:: Margaux Burgess :: Alberta Liquor Store Association, Lingua Vina 39
JUDGE’S
SELECTION Poplar Grove THE LEGACY CABERNET FRANC
& SYRAH AWARD WINNERS
TO YOUR DOOR
Grenache Grenache, or garnacha, is an often overlooked gem, despite the fact it is one of the most planted red grapes around the world. Moreover, because it is grown so widely, grenache can show itself in a myriad of styles perfect for any palate; from Herb-deProvence spiced and mineral, to dense, rich and fruity, you can explore a wide range of wines to keep you intrigued and coming back for more. This year, we were fortunate to taste great examples from Spain and Australia, where lots of sunshine allow this basking beauty to achieve full ripeness. The judges in 2016 really loved the wines which exemplified the profuse fleshy red fruit, beautiful floral, subtle herbal notes and that hallmark sweet spice that make this grape so wonderful. When pairing Grenache, roasted or barbequed vegetables and meats like aubergines, lamb or pork work best, especially with a little dash of sweet BBQ sauce to match the fruit. Matt Leslie BEST IN CLASS
www.poplargrove.ca
d'Arenberg 2013 The Custodian Grenache McLaren Vale, Australia $21-23 CSPC 719669
Gewürztraminer S
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Typically, this is a category dominated by the masters in Alsace, but 2016 saw a bit of an upset with examples from Canada and Italy taking home top scores. Whilst it can be polarising, gewürztraminer is one of a handful of grapes that can show outstanding examples from dry to sweet, subtle to forthright, and everything in between. This year’s entrants ranged from dry with notes of fresh flowers, stone fruit and citronella to off-dry, showing tropical fruits with sweet and exotic spices. Thanks to gewürztraminer’s pronounced flavour profile, be sure to pair intensely flavourful foods like Asian and Indian curry with it. And, if spicy curry is the name of your game, seek out off-dry examples, as the sugar helps abate the chili heat sensation. Matt Leslie BEST IN CLASS
TE RWILLEGAR
ST ALBERT
594 0 M u l l e n Wa y
150 Bellerose Dr
D I N E N I N E T E E N .CO M
Hillside Winery 2015 Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley, Canada $25 CSPC 505206
TOP VALUE
Miguel Torres 2014 5G Campo de Borja, Spain $16 CSPC 769637 JUDGES SELECTION
Atteca 2013 Old Vines Garnacha Calatayud, Spain $23 CSPC 729032
TOP VALUE
Cavit Bottega Vinai 2014 Gewürztraminer Trentino, Italy $18-19 CSPC 775581 JUDGES SELECTION
Summerhill 2015 Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley, Canada $23 CSPC 446468
:: Matt Leslie :: Fine Vintage, Metrovino
Unaged Spirits This might seem a bit of an “odd duck” category, but what we had was several spirits that normally see wood aging (but didn’t) emerge through the ranks and achieve scores worthy of winning awards. With the boom in craft distilleries-not just in Alberta, we are seeing an increase on shelves of raw or unaged spirits. To make a Canadian whiskyand call it a Canadian whisky-one needs at least three years in barrel-which is a difficult burden to bear for a new producer, so some distillers are producing these exciting, fiery, and well-crafted spirits that are exceptionally versatile in a cocktail, but for those that like a little fire in their belly-are perfect for sipping (or shooting). We had a tie for Best in Class, though I must say that all the scores were very, very close. Tom Firth BEST IN CLASS (TIE)
JUDGES SELECTION
Chinook Signature White Whiskey United States $34 CSPC 762202
Red Cup 100% Wheat Shine Alberta, Canada $20-34 CSPC 778293
Park Distillery Glacier Rye Alberta, Canada $48-50 CSPC 778456
Coolers and Pre-Mixed Drinks Coolers have an undoubted appeal to consumers; especially ones looking for convenience, simplicity and increasingly novelty in their choice of drink. The category continues to see expansion with offerings of hard root beers, cream sodas, and ginger ales that are exciting the palates of a new generation of drinkers. Adding these new products to an already-crowded array of flavoured iced teas, lemonades and all natures of fizz, makes selection a challenge. This year, we liked the old time-y style of the Crazy Uncle Hard Root Beer whose balance of distinct herbal flavours and moderate punch of alcohol edged out the competition. Get out the vanilla ice cream, chill some mugs and craft some tasty adult root beer floats. Adrian Bryksa BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Crazy Uncle Hard Root Beer Canada $3 (473ml can) CSPC 779697
Dusty Boots Hard Root Beer Canada $12-13 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 778619 Chum Churum – Peach South Korea $6-7 CSPC 778889 Hey Y'all Southern Style Hard Iced Tea Canada $12 (6 pack cans) CSPC 824920
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Gin Gin is so “in” right now, with more brands available in Alberta than ever. It’s the ideal spirit for new distilleries to launch with, as white spirits are ready to roll almost immediately. It also provides distillers with the ultimate opportunity for creativity – their choice of botanicals is literally endless. The current interest in gin led to a terrific showing for the category this year, with many newcomers to the Awards, and newcomers to distilling; of our winners, the oldest distillery only launched their products five years ago. The top gin this year is from South Africa, and brand new to our province. Inverroche Classic Gin isn’t at all classic, with a base spirit of sugar cane and indigenous Fynbos botanicals from the Cape Floral Kingdom, while the ingredients for three Judges Selection gins are as local as it gets – and all won our judges’ hearts. Linda Garson JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
Eau Claire Distillery Parlour Gin Alberta, Canada $47-50 CSPC 768932
Inverroche Gin Classic South Africa $56-60 CSPC 781968
Park Distillery Alpine Dry Gin Alberta, Canada $48 CSPC 781550 Big Rig Wildrose Gin Alberta, Canada $50 CSPC 778369
Tequila Tequila is a spirit that has fought hard for its new reputation. Much, much more than the roughest, rawest spirits of not that long ago, tequila these days is all about high quality, smooth spirits that are as enjoyable to sip on as any other premium spirit. This category is still fairly small at the Alberta Beverage Awards, but what we saw in the results was that our judges flocked to the Resposado and Añejo examples-liking those aged examples which are not only suited to slow sipping, but elevate your cocktail game too. Tom Firth JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
Torres Rocado Reposado Mexico $88-90 CSPC 780117
Tequila Ocho Añejo Mexico $75-78 CSPC 760475
Corralejo Reposado Mexico $65-67 CSPC 710293
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Sake Sake is an intriguing and versatile beverage with a wholly unique flavour profile, ranging from floral and fruity, to rich and earthy. It hails from Japan, where it has been made for well over a millennia and is used widely throughout Japanese cuisine; of course, sake is synonymous with sushi. But in Alberta it’s an often-overlooked category, and there’s certainly a big opportunity to boost sake’s profile here. A number of delicious sakes were tasted at the awards and the quality was very consistent across all entries. The one that stood out slightly more than the others was a Junmai Daiginjo—the highest tier of sake quality. There were also a couple of unusual entries such as one made from BC-grown rice by Fraser Valley (redolent of Okanagan orchard flowers and fruit). Mel Priestley BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Houraisen Kuu Junmai Daiginjo Sake Japan $65-66 CSPC 775508
Mikotsuru “Majestic Crane” Junmai Pink Sake Japan; $27-28 CSPC 777451 Kaiun “New Fortune” Iwaizake Junmai Daiginjo Sake Japan; $58-60 CSPC 768494
:: Mel Priestley ::
Osake Fraser Valley "Renaissance" Junmai Sake Canada; $25-27 CSPC TBD
Freelance Journalist, Edmonton Food Council
Rum
Rum – it all begins with the sugars. Most rums are produced through the distillation of molasses from sugar cane. In the case of most Caribbean rums, for example, this sugar cane comes from Brazil. Other rum regions include Cuba, Argentina, Mexico, Columbia, Panama and Puerto Rico. So it may come as a surprise that one of this year’s Alberta Beverage Awards Best in Class (yes, we had a tie) hails from Cowansville, Quebec. This delightful spiced rum offers notes of vanilla bean, cinnamon stick and sandlewood, with just a touch of sweet honey. Aged rums can be particularly tricky. Rums can easily lose their original potency and character as the oak barrels soak up the sugars. When done well, oak aging can add depth and complexity. Such is the case with our other Best in Class, one of my personal favourites – the El Dorado 12 Year Old. It is rich on the palate with notes of fig, toffee and crème caramel. Steve Goldsworthy BEST IN CLASS (TIE)
JUDGES SELECTION
Chic Choc Rum Canada $32-34 CSPC 767856
Ron Barcelo Imperial Rum Dominican Republic $49 CSPC 7362491
El Dorado 12 Year Old Guyana $35-36 CSPC 912402
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El Dorado 15 Year Old Rum Guyana; $53 CSPC 411124
El Dorado 5 Year Old Rum Guyana; $27 CSPC 753635
Vodka While vodka is essentially a neutral spirit, it is far from flavourless. In fact, there were a wide variety of aromas and flavours in the glasses in front of us, everything from a medicinal, rubbing alcohol nose to vanilla and dill, bananas and wheat. And these weren’t flavoured vodkas! In the end we were looking for a pure, clear colour, a pleasant, viscous palate weight, some spice and a lingering, clean finish. It was an interesting journey. And our #1 pick was a home-grown Calgary bottle you can find at a great price, Alberta Pure. Triple-distilled and made from prairie grain, the vodka also won a double-gold medal this summer at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, so we aren’t alone in our praise. Darren Oleksyn JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
Big Rig Premium Vodka Alberta, Canada $50 CSPC 777366
Alberta Pure Vodka Alberta, Canada $25 CSPC 447920
Quartz Vodka Quebec, Canada $35-37 CSPC 780481 Eau Claire Distillery Three Point Vodka Alberta, Canada $45-47 CSPC 768931
Flavoured Vodka Pure, clear and neutral – vodka is the number one consumed spirit worldwide and the base for many a cocktail. Given the inherent neutrality it was only a matter of time before flavoured vodkas made an appearance. In some instances, they were herbal infusions for medicinal purposes, but mostly, as they are now, it was to add flavour and complexity. The range of flavours available is expansive and we tasted across the realm from mildly aromatic bison grass, to wildly fragrant garlic and sweet vanilla. Perennial favourite Zubrowka Bison Grass Vodka was the overall favourite with its approachable sweet, herbal aromatics. A vodka for sipping or to use in cocktails to add body or balance acidic components such as ginger or apple. Another standout was the Garlic Vodka from Nisku distiller, Big Rig. Pungent with pure garlic aromatics, never before had I so craved a Caesar! Margaux Burgess JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
Eau Claire Distillery Prickly Pear EquineOx Vodka Alberta, Canada $47-50 CSPC 780852
Zubrowka Bison Grass Vodka Poland $30-33 CSPC 35840
Park Distillery Vanilla Vodka Alberta, Canada $48-50 CSPC 778454 Big Rig Garlic Vodka Alberta, Canada $50 CSPC 778372
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White Single Varietals These wines are not exactly falling off the tongues of consumers (yet), but they should certainly be passing their tongues on the way to their bellies. Perhaps the fringe festival for white wines but a must-experience for any wine enthusiast. The category had wines from all over the world in varying styles but the one thing in common was vibrant, clear, and unique personalities. I love chenin blanc, so on a personal note I am excited to see the wines of South Africa making a comeback of sorts. If you have yet to experience any of the grape varieties labelled below, now is the time to get out and explore! Mike Roberts BEST IN CLASS (TIE)
TOP VALUE
Spier Signature 2015 Chenin Blanc Western Cape, South Africa $12-13 CSCP 659037
Santa Cristina 2014 Casasole Orvieto Classico Umbria, Italy $13 CSPC 52308
Gnarly Head 2014 Viognier California $19 CSPC 783767
JUDGES SELECTION Bench 1775 2015 Viognier Okanagan Valley, Canada $22 CSPC 123456 Zenato 2015 Lugana San Benedetto Veneto, Italy $18 CSPC 479584 Wild Olive 2015 Old Vine Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa $14 CSPC 751568 Cuma 2015 Torrontes Calchaqui Valley, Argentina $14-15 CSPC 213389 Fontanafredda 2015 Gavi di Gavi Gavi, Italy $19 CSPC 755382 Banfi 2015 La Pettegola Vermentino Maremma, Italy $17 CSPC 779104
:: Mike Roberts:: Calgary Coop Wines Spirits Beer | 2016 Panel Captain 46
White Blends At home, we are just as likely to pull the cork (or crack the screwcap) on a white blend as we are to open something like a great chardonnay. The wines on this page represent a variety of blends, some novel and some traditional, but one thing they have in common is that they are blended for drinkability. These wines are tasty-and quaffable but also tend to represent some incredible value for your wine enjoyment dollars. Personally, I was thrilled to see some vinho verde make the list (so, so versatile and perfect for turkey and all the fixings), but also some Canadian wines showing great balance and continuing to fare well against international bottles. Our Best in Class hails from Spain and is well known for being a delicious and refreshing white for a heck of a price. Tom Firth TOP VALUE
BEST IN CLASS
Adega De Monção 2015 Vinho Verde Monção, Portugal $14-16 CSPC 741161
Torres 2015 Vina Esmeralda Catalunya, Spain $15-17 CSPC 165316
JUDGES SELECTION Tinhorn Creek 2014 Oldfield Series 2Bench White Okanagan Valley, Canada $24-26 CSCP 722105 Poderi dal Nespoli 2014 Pagadebit Romagna, Italy $18-20 CSPC 771039 Clos du Soleil 2014 Capella White Meritage Similkameen, British Columbia $26-28 CSPC 823334 Casa de Olieros Vinho Verde Minho, Portugal $14-16 CSPC 767172
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Red Single Varieties As we sifted through the red single varieties, it was nice to see more than just cabernet sauvignon, merlot or malbec hit the top ticket. Canada fared well in this category as did cabernet franc, clearly a variety that is doing well in the terroir of the Okanagan Valley, scoring top points for Best in Class and Judges Selection. Both ends of the price scale were represented as well! Eastern Canada made a showing in the category with the classic hybrid baco noir for great value, and not to be forgotten, California shone through with a surprising choice in petite sirah. Not surprising for us Albertans though given the taste profile – big, bold and fruity! Marcia Hamm BEST IN CLASS Hillside Winery 2012 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, Canada $30 CSPC 528935 TOP VALUE
EXPERIANCE CALGARY’S DESTINATION RESTAURANT AT THE CALGARY AIRPORT
Henry of Pelham 2014 Baco Noir Niagara Peninsula, Canada $20 CSPC 270926 JUDGES SELECTION Gnarly Head 2014 Petite Sirah California, United States $18 CSPC 783104 Poplar Grove 2013 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, Canada $45-47 CSPC 738640 Bartier Bros. 2013 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, Canada $29-30 CSPC 782336
LOCALLY INSPIRED METICULOUSLY HANDCRAFTED
:: Marcia Hamm :: 2008 AIRPORT ROAD NE
CALGARY
ALBERTA
587.232.0538
Hicks Fine Wine
Merlot As the most widely planted grape in the Bordeaux region, it is encouraging to see merlot on the upswing in the market. Regions such as Californiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Napa Valley, Australia, Chile, and even Canada have produced exceptional merlot, at surprisingly reasonable prices. Done well, it can be some of the finest wine you will ever drink. This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best in Class is a classic Napa merlot. Though the 2013 Emmolo Napa Valley Merlot commands around $82 dollars on the shelf, it is worth every penny. The fruit comes from the coveted Oak Knoll sub-appellation and shows ripe black cherry notes, robust structure and a lingering finish of spice cake. Rich complexity with a nod to the old world results in a fine wine for cellar or table. Steve Goldsworthy BEST IN CLASS
Emmolo 2013 Merlot Napa Valley, California $82 CSPC 493759 TOP VALUE
Castoro de Oro 2013 Merlot Okanagan Valley, Canada $23 CSPC 778355
JUDGES SELECTION Hillside Winery 2013 Merlot Okanagan Valley, Canada $26 CSPC 536839 Burrowing Owl 2012 Merlot Okanagan Valley, Canada $35 CSPC 509885 Rodney Strong Vineyards 2012 Sonoma County Merlot Sonoma County, California $24 CSPC 497933
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American Whisky No longer just destined for a rye and coke or rye and ginger-rye whisky can easily and often does replace bourbon in cocktails or scotch in a tulip glass. Rye is definitively more spicy than many of its whisky counter parts and it is also often more rounded and weighty on the palate. The contestants in this year’s category made it incredibly difficult upon the judges. All were classically styled, balanced, and smoothed out – but it is no surprise that the richest, darkest and most full bodied reigned supreme here. Mike Roberts
Rye Whisky BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Alberta Premium Dark Horse Whisky Alberta, Canada $26-28 CSPC 750794
J.P. Wiser's Hopped Canadian Whisky Canada $22-25 CSPC 774383
Bourbon The American Whisky category is one that is steadily growing and perhaps even catching up to the ever-popular rum. These spirits are becoming less and less “fiery” and growing into a sipping style of drink, filled with delightful caramel and sweet vanillin flavours backed by a spicy kick and broad mouthfeel. I don’t imbibe in spirits much at home but when I do, it is usually bourbon. A good Manhattan, Old Fashioned, or Whisky Sour is something to crave and the quality of these American whiskies will only heighten that experience. The “Best in Class” Evan Williams is a 9 old whisky that is round, smooth and very generous. Mike Roberts BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage Straight Kentucky Bourbon United States $40 CSPC 546895
Garrison Brothers Texas Straight Bourbon United States $92 CSPC 781487
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Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris Pinot gris is an aromatic, cool climate grape grown in Italy, Austria, eastern Europe, Germany, France, USA and Canada. (The first pinot gris in Canada was planted at Gray Monk in the Okanagan in 1976.) It can make light-bodied, fairly simple whites or complex wines with lots of minerality, even salinity. If you like sauvignon blanc you will enjoy these. A bigger style, full-bodied with a lush mouth feel and complex flavours may be preferred by those who prefer richer whites such as barrel-fermented chardonnay. And, look for the ramato style from northern Italy. The juice stays on the skins for a longer period of time, imparting colour, body and tannin to the juice during that time. These wines can range from pale orange to a dark rosy shade. The wide range that is pinot gris was expressed in the ABA 2016 competition by the light-bodied, easygoing Blue Fish (Best in Class) and the mature full-bodied, high-intensity Grand Cru from the Alsace, the 2008 Hengst (Judges Selection). Mary Bailey TOP VALUE
BEST IN CLASS
Santa Cristina 2013 Pinot Grigio Tuscany, Italy $13-14 CSPC 758151
Blue Fish 2014 Pinot Grigio Palatinate, Germany $13-14 CSPC 774906
JUDGES SELECTION Pierre Sparr 2014 Pinot Gris Reserve Alsace, France $20-22 CSPC 373332 Hengst Pinot Gris 2008 Alsace Grand Cru Alsace, France $36 CSPC 752736 Lagaria 2014 Pinot Grigio Veneto, Italy $13 CSPC 713540
:: Mary Bailey :: The Tomato (Edmonton) | 2016 Panel Captain 51
Sparkling Wines Sparkling wines get me excited any day of the year, any time of the day, but more than ever when I am lucky enough to be part of the sparkling wine flights for Alberta Beverage Awards. So much to notice and discover in their taste profile – you can wonder and explore their complexity, or you can just enjoy! There are great sparkling wines from across all different price points, different countries and taste profiles, the winners in this category definitely reflects that! From the gorgeous Comte de Dampierre Brut 1er Cru Champagne, to the amazingly great value Poema Cava, and even a sparkling wine from Luxembourg. I was very happy to see H. Blin again this year winning a Judges Selection. To me, their champagne completely over-delivers for the price point. Finally, if you are a big fan of Marlborough sauvignon blanc…try the super unique Villa Maria Private Bin Lightly Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, talk about a palate cleanser! Nathalie Gosselin BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
Comte de Dampierre NV Brut 1er Cru Champagne Champagne, France $63-65 CSPC 768152
Summerhill NV Cipes Brut Rose Okanagan Valley, Canada $34 CSPC 720539 JUDGES SELECTION Domaine Carneros by Taittinger NV Brut Rosé la Pompador Carneros, California $45 CSPC 11353 H. Blin NV Brut Champagne Champagne, France $48-55 CSPC 756346 Lanson NV Black Label Brut Champagne Champagne, France $53-56 CSPC 215692 Villa Maria 2015 Private Bin Lightly Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $18 CSPC 774093 Poema NV Cava Brut Penedes, Spain $15-16 CSPC 770313 Bernard – Massard NV Cuvée L'Ecusson Pinot Noir Brut Luxembourg $19-20 CSPC 756886
:: Nathalie Gosselin :: Vine Styles 52
Brandy One of my favourite spirits, brandy is a product that simply must stand on its own. Sure you can mix drinks with brandy, but good brandy certainly doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need to be mixed. Brandy is a distillate made with a wine base and then aged in wood. Cognac, a brandy producing region of France, is the only place that should use the name Cognac on the label, but quality brandies are made all over the world. A relatively small category at the Alberta Beverage Awards, we nonetheless saw a wide range of entries and styles, and in the end, the top award went to the Torres Jaime I brandy from Spain which is aged 30 years and shows great depth and smoothness. Tom Firth JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
Withington Voorkamer Pot Still Brandy South Africa $60-65 CSPC 782453
Torres 30 Year Old Jaime I Spain $115-125 CSPC 743822
Hardy XO Rare Fine Champagne Cognac France $110-120 CSPC 776420
Liqueurs The world of cocktails is booming in Calgary, and around the world, with bartender competitions, innovative cocktail lists, and the use of unique ingredients. From smokiness, to sourness, to sweetness, the taste profile of cocktails has evolved to a whole new level over the last few years. Some of them are the perfect addition for an unforgettable cocktail, and some of them meant to be sipped slowly after a great meal. I was thrilled to see two of the wonderful liqueurs from the Berta Distillery (Italy) being in the top 3 this year. Nathalie Gosselin BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Berta Sambuca di Anise Italy $90-95 CSPC 771723
Chartreuse Cuvée des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France Sommeliers France $52 CSPC 783758 Berta Amaretto di Mombaruzzo Selezione Italy $65-68 CSPC 745517
Cream Liqueurs Cream liqueurs can be enjoyed in so many different ways, for so many different instances! They’re the perfect addition to your coffee to start a lazy Sunday morning at home, even better for replacing cream in your coffee over the holidays, and even great as an alternative to dessert. Whether you enjoy them in coffee, on the rocks, straight up or in cocktails they make a wonderful alternative for something sweetbut not “too boozy”. The wide selection available in Alberta features products with different base spirits and different flavours such as coffee, chai spices, pumpkin, nuts, chocolate, cookies, and so on. This year, the winners on this category were all rum based, and there was even a local producer from Nisku in Alberta! Nathalie Gosselin
Single Malt Whisky The world of Scotch is as vast as it is divisive. There is no middle ground for the Scotch lover, once you’ve found your favourite style, there seems to be no turning back. We welcomed a wide range of ages in the category in this year’s competition – from 10 year bottlings to 21, we put on our very best arguing kilts and waged our wars of opinion. The Best in Class single malt whisky went to the 16 year from Tomintoul of Speyside. Although Speyside is usually among the lightest and sweetest of the Scotch regions, this is remarkably gentle and nutty. The little bit o’ age on it, rounded out the body nicely. Also from Speyside is our new to Alberta market, Tamdu 10 year. Its arrival has been highly anticipated by those in the know, and it does not disappoint. One of the best bang-for-your-buck top-tier whiskeys out there. Darren Fabian BEST IN CLASS Tomintoul 16 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky United Kingdom $95-100 CSPC 808170
BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Maya Rum Horchata United States $20-22 CSPC 756487
El Dorado Golden Rum Cream Guyana; $22-25 CSPC 734375
JUDGES SELECTION
Big Rig Double Double Alberta, Canada $37-40 CSPC 778370
Glengoyne 21 Year-Old Highland Single Malt United Kingdom $195-200 CSPC 718232
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Presented by:
Explore Foraging, Pruning Tips, Alberta Brews and more.
October 12 – 15, 2016 JUDGES SELECTION (continued)
Highlights:
• Chef Collaborative Dinner featuring top Alberta chefs • Hands-on workshops, tours, demos & tastings
Two Brewers Single Malt Whisky Yukon, Canada $90-95 CSPC 780264 Tamdhu 10 Year-Old Speyside Single Malt United Kingdom $70 CSCP 778216 Glenfarclas 17 Year Old Single Highland Whisky United Kingdom $105-110 CSPC 134270 Glenrothes Bourbon Cask Reserve Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky United Kingdom $70-75 CSPC 780121
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Ales
Ales are to beer as red is to wine. What that means is ales can be as diverse/different as red wines. Imagine the difference in characteristics between a light fruity pinot noir in comparison to a dark rich tempranillo. I know – weird right – a beer guy using wines to describe something about beer...but this year’s selection of ales very much illustrate the diversity that we had in choosing our winners. Brewster’s Hammerhead Red Ale – a local favourite for a reason, was a rich red bordering on a burnt orange colour with a distinct sweet caramel aroma, had a pleasant, round mouth feel with some nicely integrated dryness coming from the hops in the finish. Russell Blood Alley Extra Special Bitter – a very interesting take on a difficult to master style of beer. The aroma is unmistakable citric, floral nose with a hint of spice/wood, but the most remarkable part of this beer is how rich and malty it feels in your mouth and how the finish is equally balanced and dry. John Papavacilopoulos
Ales BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Russell Brewing Blood Alley Bitter Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 201699
Alley Kat Olde Deuteronomy Barley Wine Grizzly Paw Rundlestone Session Ale Alberta, Canada; $4-5 CSPC 721821 Alberta, Canada $12-13 (4 pack cans) CSPC 780014 Deep Cove Lookout Session Ale Canada $8-9 (650ml) CSPC 780212 Grizzly Paw Powder Hound Blonde Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 772138 Troubled Monk Golden Gaetz Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack cans) CSPC 773576
Red Ales and Brown Ales BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Brewsters Hammerhead Red Ale Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 770044
Grizzly Paw Rutting Elk Red Ale Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 716245 Alley Kat Amber Brown Ale Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6 pack bottles) CSPC 901199
Something Brewing Gimmie That Nutt Brown Ale Alberta, Canada $9-10 (4 pack cans) CSPC 766646 Big Rock Traditional Ale Alberta, Canada $16-19 (6-pack bottles) CSPC 761157 Norsemen Brewing Eric the Red Amber Ale Alberta, Canada; (On Tap) CSPC 783182
:: John Papavacilopoulos :: Oak and Vine Craft Beer, Wine & Spirits | 2016 Panel Captain 56
Ciders
Ciders have been gaining popularity in Alberta and with good reason. They bring together the crowd pleasing qualities of being easily consumed and can offer gluten-fee or gluten-restricted consumers an option. Cider is made in much the same way that beer is and can share many of the same characteristics with some even going as far as adding hops to flavour ciders like beers. The Best in Class-Rock Creek Dry Cider â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a local and very good example of what a dry cider should be. Locally sourced apples (Kelowna, BC) done in a traditional and consistent manner that results in a real crowd-pleasing cider. This cider has a light straw-like colour in the glass, with a bright crisp nose and an ever so pleasing amount of cut hay floating around the rim of the glass. The mouth feel, while tart, finishes dry and refreshing, with some light sweet notes. John Papavacilopoulos BEST IN CLASS Rock Creek Dry Cider Canada $ 15 (6 pack cans) CSPC 693150 JUDGES SELECTION Lonetree Authentic Dry Cider Canada $15 (6 pack cans) CSPC 744173 Lonetree Cranberry Apple Dry Cider Canada $15 (6 pack cans) CSPC 758527
Pinot Noir For the last decade, pinot noir has been the choice grape of almost anyone out there who routinely drinks red wine. Its penchant for precocious aromatics and fine lines that caress the tongue easily seduce newcomers and professionals alike. Its ability to show transparency of origin and the varying degrees of concentration make for its own unique drinking study. The Alberta market is ripe with pinot noir with as many as 765 different offerings in the province at any given time. Marimar Estate takes top shelf in our competition with their 2012 Mas Cavalls Dona Margarita vineyard; a brooding wine with intense depth of character yielding high-toned aromas of violets, plum pudding and brioche. At around $65 the Marimar is in the premium realm of wine, but considering that pinot noir can reach the stars in terms of pricing this holds its value very well. Brad Royale BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION Fess Parker 2013 Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbara, California $42-45 CSPC 701604
Marimar Estate 2012 “Mas Cavalls” Dona Margarita Vineyard Sonoma, California $65 CSPC 726517
Villa Maria 2010 Cellar Selection Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand $29-30 CSPC 726114
TOP VALUE
Marimar Estate 2013 “La Masia” Don Miguel Vineyard Sonoma, California $55-60 CSPC 434712 Cloudy Bay 2014 Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand $48-50 CSPC 718297
Bliss Vineyard 2013 Pinot Noir Mendocino County, California $20-21 CSPC 815175
Sacred Hill 2015 Orange Label Marlborough Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand $22 CSPC 718537
Prosecco
Prosecco is without doubt one of the most popular alcoholic beverages the known universe has ever seen. In 2013 Prosecco overtook Champagne as the number one sparkling beverage of choice. It is crucial to an Aperol spritz and with a warm sun shining on your lips it is one of the most refreshing tipples one could ask for. The key to a keen glass of Prosecco is the right balance of acidity to sweetness with pure fruit expression, while having a bubble structure that is rolling and frothy without being cumbersome. Prosecco should be fulsome in the mouth while retaining a tight finish allowing for quick turnarounds between sips. In this regard, La Marca’s current offering is extremely well done- showcasing telltale green apple, pear and white flowers, and at around $21 retail is perfect for the case purchase. Brad Royale :: Brad Royale :: Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts | 2016 Panel Captain 58
BEST IN CLASS
La Marca NV Prosecco Veneto, Italy; $21 CSPC 740323 TOP VALUE
Giusti NV Rosalia Prosecco Veneto, Italy; $18 CSPC 767184
Syrah/Shiraz Syrah seems to fall from the collective conscience; gentler, yet weightier than Bordeaux varieties, it grows well in many corners of the winemaking world and can offer wines of great complexity. This year new world submissions once again stood out as being particularly successful. The quality of the standard-bearers from Australia was confirmed with intensity of aromatics, flavour and a true sense-of-place, while impressive results were also found in surprising and unexpected regions of the world. The savoury elegance and refined fruit of examples from Elqui Valley in Chile and Hawkeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay in New Zealand impressed the judges, and highlighted the diversity possible with quality Syrah. Next year I would love to see an increased number of entrants from the classic regions of France to see how they fare against these striking examples! Margaux Burgess JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
Poplar Grove 2013 Syrah Okanagan Valley, Canada $47-49 CSPC 596668 CG Di Arie Sierra Foothills 2012 Syrah Sierra Foothills, California $30-32 CSPC 773056
Vina Falernia 2011 Reserva Syrah Elqui Valley, Chile $20-22 CSPC 147819
Yalumba Patchwork 2013 Shiraz Barossa, Australia $25-27 CSPC 755359
TOP VALUE
Nugan Alfredo Second Pass 2014 Shiraz New South Wales, Australia $17-18 CSPC 760237 Nugan Estate 2013 Scruffy's Shiraz Riverina, Australia $17-18 CSPC 767829
Moana Park Estate Winery 2013 Syrah Hawkes Bay, New Zealand $20-22 CSPC 764937
Bench 1775 2013 Syrah Okanagan Valley, Canada $25 CSPC 775454
JUDGES SELECTION Giusti Asolo NV Prosecco Brut Veneto, Italy; $21 CSPC 767763 Santa Margherita NV Prosecco Superiore di Valdobbiadene Veneto, Italy $19 CSPC 687582 Villa Sandi Il Fresco NV Proscecco Treviso Spumante Veneto, Italy $16-17 CSPC 33365
Ruffino NV Prosecco Veneto, Italy; $18 CSPC 756977
La Gioiosa NV Prosecco Treviso Brut Veneto, Italy; $18 CSPC 770999 59
Sauvignon Blanc In 1973, New Zealand’s first sauvignon blanc vines were planted in Marlborough. The Marlborough style, aromatic, with zingy acidity and fresh herbal flavours, became the dominant style of sauvignon blanc around the world. At the 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards, of the nine earning awards, six were from Marlborough. It remains the category killer due to its versatility, food friendliness and ubiquity—it’s in every fridge door. But don’t hate it because it’s popular. Between the fuller-bodied styles from warmer climates such as California and Bordeaux (white Bordeaux, a blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon generally sees some oak), the minerally wines of the Loire Valley and the complex sauv coming out of both Niagara and the Okanagan, there’s plenty to explore. Judges liked the Best in Class Saint Clair Family Estate bottling for its medium body, citrus flavours and the steady seam of bright acidity, so refreshing. Mary Bailey BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
Saint Clair 2015 Family Estate Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $16 CSPC 73947
Sileni Estates 2015 Cellar Selection Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $16 CSPC 723426 JUDGES SELECTION Richard Hamilton 2015 Sauvignon Blanc Coonawarra, Australia $21 CSPC 780738 Nautilus 2014 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $22 CSPC 328377 Highfield 2014 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $22-23 CSPC 503250 Villa Maria 2014 Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $20 CSPC 718259 Seven Terraces 2015 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $17 CSPC 717467 Enigma 2015 Sauvignon Blanc California $13 CSPC 780608 Therapy Vineyards 2015 Sutherland Road Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Okanagan Valley, Canada $20 CSPC 762469
60
Rhône-Style Blends I’m thrilled to see different areas of the wine world playing with the Rhône varietals: grenache, syrah and mourvèdre and offering a different take on traditional Rhône wines. The winners of the category this year definitely reflect that diversity of the style. Stand outs for me, were both classic wines like Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné Parallele 45 Rouge from the Rhône Valley, and also more modern expressions from California and Barossa. I thought it was wonderful as well to see wines like the Borsao "Berola" from Spain in the top wines of this category. And more than anything, very happy to see the Tautavel wine from Gerard Bertrand winning Best in Class. This silky, smooth and velvety wine is a sure crowd pleaser and a perfect partner to almost any food, and any situation. Nathalie Gosselin JUDGES SELECTION Grant Burge 2011 Holy Trinity Grenache Syrah Mourvedre Barossa Valley Australia $41 CSPC 709827 Cline 2014 Cashmere Contra Costa County, California $18-20 CSPC 168468 Borsao 2013 "Berola" Campo de Borja, Spain $20-21 CSPC 756863
BEST IN CLASS
Gerard Bertrand 2013 Grand Terroir Tautavel Languedoc, France; $24-25 CSPC 756857 TOP VALUE
Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2013 Parallele 45 Rouge Rhône, France; $18 CSPC 779034
Chardonnay This year, more than most, we had great parity in the chardonnay category. Overwhelmingly new world offerings were the order of the day. Top marks went to Vasse Felix’s “Filius” From Margaret River, in Australia. Chardonnays from this region seem to acquire an extra-dimension of concentrated, tangy fruit, without becoming flabby or cloying. But overall, chardonnay provided excellent value and character across the board. France, South Africa, British Columbia, and even New York state (The “Doyle Family Vineyard” selection is unoaked, yet has amazing tropical and stone fruit characteristics) also show up as Judges Selections this year proving that great chardonnay is found across the globe. I encourage you to ask your favourite wine shop about other wines from these regions as well. Darren Fabian BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
Vasse Felix 2014 Filius Chardonnay Margaret River, Australia $28 CSPC 767541
Fleur Du Cap 2014 Chardonnay Western Cape, South Africa $15 CSPC 778267 JUDGES SELECTION Joseph Drouhin 2014 Chablis de Vaudon Chablis, France $31-32 CSPC 730705 Bartier Bros. 2014 Barrel Ferment Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, Canada $28 CSPC 771221 Joseph Drouhin 2014 Pouilly-Fuisse Burgundy, France $33-35 CSPC 49478 Nugan Estate 2013 Drover's Hut Chardonnay Riverina, Australia $16-17 CSPC 767831 Fox Run Vineyards "Doyle Family Vineyard" 2015 Chardonnay Finger Lakes, New York, United States $21 CSPC 760637
:: Darren Fabian : Alloy Restaurant | 2016 Panel Captain 62
Riesling Riesling is always such a pleasure to judge-and drink. It’s a flexible wine you can pair with almost anything whether fish, poultry, pork or even spicy Asian dishes. On the palate, it delivers everything from pretty flower blossoms and tangerine to green apple and smoke. It’s high acid content means you can lose it in the cellar, or the back of the fridge, and it’ll be just fine. While the acid can be searing in some dry rieslings, for these awards we tasted the sweeter, crowd-pleasing off-dry versions. That little bit of extra sugar smooths everything out, making these great food and patio wines. And what a bargain too. Darren Oleksyn TOP VALUE
BEST IN CLASS
Clean Slate Riesling 2013 Mosel, Germany $15 CSPC 757403
Deinhard Green Label 2013 Riesling Mosel, Germany $13 CSPC 8094
JUDGES SELECTION Red Rooster 2014 Riesling Okanagan Valley, Canada $19-20 CSPC 498840 Culmina 2015 Decora Okanagan Valley, Canada $30-32 CSPC 794743
Red Blends From smoky Rhône Valley style blends, to sophisticated Left and Right Bank Bordeaux, the red blend category is a varied and exciting one. To some, winemaking is a form of alchemy. Beginning with a particular grape, other varietals will be selected to complement and subtly contrast the dominant varietal, often with a particular region’s style in mind. Regardless of region, it is a winemaker’s vision for the wine which prevails. This is not to say that a winemaker imposes her or his will on a wine. Rather, they help marry the various components, and nurture the wine to its full potential. This year’s Best in Class red blend was a very pleasant surprise on many levels. The Tamari Reserva Red Passion comes from Argentina’s Uco Valley in Mendoza. With 50% malbec, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 15% syrah, and 5% petit verdot, it has all the hallmarks of a well-made Bordeaux – at $15 a bottle! On the palate notes of blackberry and cassis. Firm tannins and great structure make it a very food friendly wine. A new world wine, in an old world style. Steve Goldsworthy BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
Tamari Reserva 2014 Red Passion Uco Valley, Argentina $15 CSPC 779272
Ménage a Trois 2013 Midnight California $16 CSPC 767186 JUDGES SELECTION Kismet 2014 Karma Okanagan Valley, Canada $24 CSPC 774316 Road 13 2013 Seventy Four K Okanagan Valley, Canada $24 CSPC 78915 Mascota Vineyards 2011 Unanime Gran Vino Tinto Red Uco Valley, Argentina $28 CSPC 915108 Pocas Vale de Cavalos 2012 Tinto Douro, Portugal $21 CSPC 773223 Spier 2012 Creative Block 3 Coastal Region South Africa $23 CSPC 752023 Peter Lehmann 2012 Clancy's Barossa Red Barossa Valley, Australia $18 CSPC 611467 Raven 2013 Deep Dark Red Okanagan Valley, Canada $14-15 CSPC 776828
:: Steve Goldsworthy :: Britannia Wine Merchants 64
Michael David 2013 Petite Peti Lodi, California $25 CSPC 414946
to get married. It was full on, and it was fun.” At home, the Schwartz family always had wine with meals. “They probably gave it to us to make sure we fell asleep," he laughs. The understanding and love of good food and wine came from their father. “That helped me a lot,” Schwartz says. “Objectivity is the key, so I think by being taken to fancy and not so fancy places as a kid, and remembering those tastes and experiences, I was able to find my way.”
Open That Bottle story and photography by LINDA GARSON
“You cannot say because I’m doing it, it must be the best,” says George Schwartz, co-owner of the Post Hotel in Lake Louise. “It’s knowing what is good, what people enjoy, and what good service is. When you can provide all these, you would really have to do things the wrong way to fail.” Growing up in Switzerland, Schwartz came to Canada in 1973 to visit his brother, a ski instructor in Lake Louise. He enjoyed it so much that he stayed, and although he had planned to continue his studies and become a chemical engineer, he took a job at Felice restaurant in Banff as a busboy, quickly learning the restaurant business. Soon after, the restaurant came up for sale and Schwartz borrowed the down payment from his father and the remainder from the bank. He was 23 years old, had two months experience and hardly spoke English – and was a success. He changed the concept to Ticino Swiss Italian restaurant the following year, and when the old Post Hotel in Lake Louise came up for sale in 66
1978, Schwartz and his brother made an offer to the owner, Sir Norman Watson. In 1980, Schwartz opened the Beaujolais in Banff with his friend, Albert Moser, but with Alberta soon in recession and the opportunity to lease a spot on Banff Avenue, he decided it was the perfect time to open a low budget restaurant. Georgios hit the spot price-wise and quality-wise, and was an instant success. This was followed in 1985 by a contract to operate the Alberta restaurant at Expo ‘86, and a year living in Vancouver. “It was tremendous,” he says. “We were doing over 1000 meals a day, some white tablecloth and some bistro style. It was a good run, but hard work and long hours. It was another time – I didn’t have time
So what bottle does Schwartz have tucked away, waiting to be opened? “We have a bottle that we received from a wonderful winemaker in Napa Valley,” Schwartz says. “His name was Jim Barrett, and he was the gentleman that started Chateau Montelena with his son Bo; there is a movie that tells their story (Bottleshock). Jim used to come to the Post and we had some great times together, he really enjoyed what we were doing. This is a long, long time ago.” Barrett had promised to send Schwartz a special bottle, but first asked for a photograph of the hotel. “He had the bottle etched with the picture of the hotel across the river in the snow, and it’s a five litre bottle of 1997 Chateau Montelana cabernet sauvignon,” Schwartz explains. “It’s sitting in the cellar waiting for a special day, and I haven’t decided what the special day will be because it hasn’t been special enough yet.” So what day might be special enough? Maybe when he retires? “I can’t tell,” Schwartz smiles. “I hope not to retire fully, I’d like to be able to take it easier, but I’m in no hurry to retire – and meanwhile it sits in the cellar”
Best in Class
BEST IN CLASS
TEMPRANILLO +735882 TORRES ALTOS IBERICOS 2012 LA RIOJA, SPAIN
CHARDONNAY +767541
PINOT NOIR +726517
WHITE BLENDS +165316
RHONE STYLE BLENDS +756857
MARIMAR VASSE FELIX ESTATE FILIUS GERARD TORRES VINA MAS CAVALLS CHARDONNAY BERTRAND ESMERALDA DONA MARGARITA 2014 GRAND TERROIR 2015 2013 MARGARET RIVER, TAUTAVEL 2013 CATALUNYA, AUSTRALIA
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SWEET DESSERT WINES +724804 ALVEAR PX SOLERA 1927 MONTILLA, SPAIN
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