Culinarian | Volume 1, Issue 1 | Fall 2013 by Culinarian Magazine

C ulinarian

the freshman issue Volume 1, Issue 1 | Fall 2013

get inside the trend-setting truck of

KORILLA BBQ with founder Eddie Song (CCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;08)

study abroad (vicariously) in

Argentina

learn about your foodie

HOROSCOPE

RESTAURANT REVIEWS CHEF INTERVIEWS FOOD TRENDS adventures RECIPES and much more

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Photo by Amanda Tien at La Toulousaine (Amsterdam Avenue and 106th Street) Cover photo by Amanda Tien

C EDITOR IN CHIEF Amanda Tien (CC’14) MANAGING EDITOR Manon Cooper (BC’14) CREATIVE CO-DIRECTORS Alycia Gideon (BC’16) Tiffany Ong (CC’15) EDITORS Zoe Baker-Peng (BC’16) Rachel Caron (BC’16) Isabel Genecin (CC’15) Savannah Kuper (BC’14) Meena Lee (CC’15) Rebecca Pottash (CC’15) Jenny Xu (CC’15)

ulinarian

a food magazine at columbia

COPY EDITORS Rachel Bass (BC’14) Eva Gelernt (GS’16) Megan Kallstrom (CC’15) BUSINESS MANAGER Amy Fu (SEAS’15) PR AND EVENTS MANAGER Amelia Rosen (BC’15) PHOTOGRAPHY MANAGER Ortal Isaac (GS’16) CHIEF DESIGNERS Amanda Tien (CC’14), Alycia Gideon (BC’16), Tiffany Ong (CC’15) CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS Sarah Berlinger (SEAS’16), Laurel Brown (BC’16), Faith Donaldson (BC’16), Samara Green (BC’16), Martin Ong (SEAS’16), Lina Smorra (BC’16), Elizabeth Trelstad (CC’16) CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Joanne Raptis (BC’16), Allison Scott (CC’15), Hannah Sotnick (CC’15),Marissa Wasmuth (BC’16) STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS Ortal Isaac (GS’2016), Minh Tam Nguyen (CC’15), Amanda Tien (CC’14), Matthew Tsim (CC’16) CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Emily Atlas (CC’16), Sarah Berlinger (SEAS’16), Timarie Chan (UNC’15), Shirley Dai (BC’16), Allison Duh (SEAS’14) Elizabeth Heyman (GS’16), Yvonne Hsiao (CC’16), Caroline Lange (BC’15), Simone Norman (BC’15), Martin Ong (SEAS’16), Lina Smorra (BC’16), Bethany Wong (SEAS’16) CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Emily Atlas (CC’16), Zoe Baker-Peng (BC’16), Manon Cooper (BC’14), Jessica Geddes (CC’16), Isabel Genecin (CC’15), Sireesh Gururaja (CC’15), Elizabeth Heyman (GS’16), Yvonne Hsiao (CC’16), Ortal Isaac (GS’16), Caroline Lange (BC’15), Erin Larson (CC’16), Kunal Mehta (CC’15), Amelia Moulis (CC’13), Hannah Sotnick (CC’15), Amanda Tien (CC’14), Natalia Torres (CC’16), Matthew Tsim (CC’16), Rebecca Walden (GS’15), Tim Weber (SEAS’14), Lizzy Wolozin (BC’16), Bethany Wong (SEAS’16), Jenny Xu (CC’15)

BUSINESS SUPPORT Kathryn Barr (BC’16), Shirley Dai (BC’16), Agustin Davalos,(CC’2016), Caitlin de Lisser-Ellen (CC’16), Emma Guida (BC’16), Ada Lin (CC’15), James Macksoud (CC’15), Becca Meyer (CC’15), Yuval Millet (GS’16), Selin Odabas-Geldiay (SEAS’16), Marcos Sheeran (Business’13), Dawn Smith (CC’14), Amanda Tien (CC’14)

who is a culinarian? The magazine was started by Amanda Tien (CC’14) and Manon Cooper (BC’14) in the fall of 2012. This issue marks the product of a year-long endeavor to create professional content and a brand new infrastructure. The other members of the executive board answered when Amanda and Manon put out a request for a team of leaders to assist them with this project. The Executive Board has met weekly since January 2013, even Skyping and emailing over the summer. The team for this issue is over 60 people from a myriad of majors coming together for the common passion of the culinary arts. Issue 2 production begins in October 2013 and is to be released this upcoming winter. Visit our website to apply to become a part of our staff, learn more about the magazine, and read our summer “Keep in Touch” issue that followed students’ travels throughout the world in a curated blog format. We hope you enjoy this issue of Culinarian. culinarianmagazine.com

staff spotlights get to know some of the students who contributed to this issue of Culinarian

Amelia Moulis, CC’13

WRITER

Amelia’s career began at the age of seven when she wrote, illustrated, and bound (with staples) a children’s story called The Three-Headed Cyclops. Inspired by works such as T he Handmaid’s Tale and We the Animals, Amelia says that she is “drawn to pieces that have beautifully structured sentences but that hide the thought and painful consideration that has gone into them.” Self-professed as “obsessed” with food, Amelia loves any kind of funghi on her plate and suggets The Spotted Pig in the East Village for grilled cheese.

Joanne Raptis, BC’16 Joanne began drawing as a child with her sister, doodling cartoons. She was excited to find Culinarian as a chance to explore both her art and her love of good food. In particular, she’s enamored by breakfast and loves keeping her food “fresh and simple.” Our featured artist loves “stumbling upon cute and cozy cafes and tea shops.” One of her favorite locations is Tea and Sympathy in the West V illage— she recommends ordering a cup of English Breakfast.

ARTIST

Minh Tam Nguyen, CC’15

Lizzy Trelstad, CC’16

Lizzy has always loved drawing, but after spending six weeks in Tuscany, she discovered her love of design and food while studying (and happily eating) meals drizzled in olive oil. On a warm summer day, Lizzy likes nothing better than freshly made ravioli with butternut squash and brown butter sage sauce (“except for maybe fresh watermelon or gelato”). To explorers, she recommends a walk on the High Line Park followed by a stroll through the West Village and SoHo and finishing at OTTO Enoteca Pizzeria.

DESIGNER

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PHOTOG

Tam’s interest in photography was sparked when she bought her first DSLR camera to replace blurry camera photos of her pets before exploring a myriad of subjects. “Surprisingly enough, today my food-to-cat photo ratio is almost equal!” she jokes. Growing up on Vietnamese food, she particularly loves bánh cuốn (a delicate rice noodle roll that is filled with minced woodear mushroom and sautéed pork, topped with crispy deep-fried shallots and dunked in sweet-and-spicy sauce). She suggests exploring Koreatown for a night of karaoke and green tea lava cake.

LETTER FROM THE COFOUNDERS

The Freshman Issue When we began Culinarian last Fall, we experienced something new: for the first time in our college careers, we felt like we were a part of a university club that was fully engaged, in every aspect possible, with what it was doing. Every staff member was motivated to write, edit, photograph, design, or network, and our executive board worked tireless hours to help create the magazine concept and see it pan out. We are so thankful to our wonderful staff and executive board for their incredible dedication and faith. Without them, none of this would have been possible.

In many ways, Culinarian makes us feel like freshmen again. Everything is new and unknown, filled with chances to explore campus and city life. As our “Freshman Issue,” we hope for Culinarian to be an approachable, enjoyable resource that students can use for all things food and drink. Whether you’re looking to read your culinary horoscope (see “Gastrology” on page 59), have a perfect dinner date, (see “Spaghetti Moment” on page 7), or cook breakfast for Sunday brunch (see “Migas con Huevos” on page 38), Culinarian has got you covered. The separate “City” and “Campus” departments emphasize the importance of being both a university student and a new Yorker, and the gap between the two is bridged together with our cover feature about Korilla BBQ (on page 13). It sounds cheesy (yum!), but Culinarian started as a dream that arose out of a conversation that we had on the steps of Low Library, and this dream has pushed through many difficulties to become the publication that it is today. Working on Culinarian has made us realize that we really want to do this—and not just as students, but in “real life.” We hope you enjoy this first issue of Culinarian. It has been an incredible pleasure to work on it. Much love,

Amanda Tien Editor in Chief Co-Founder

Top: The cofounders spent a day in a cafe reviewing proofs of the whole magazine. (Photo by Amanda Tien) Bottom: Manon Cooper, left, and Amanda Tien, right. (Photo by Allison Duh)

Manon Cooper Managing Editor Co-Founder

issue 01 table of contents

RECIPES

RESTAURANTS

CITY FEATURES

22| NEIGHBORHOOD PROFILE: EAST VILLAGE - explore! 27| THE ORIGINS OF THE MYTHICAL NEW YORK BAGEL - everything you ever wanted to know about this cultural institution 41| UNDERSTANDING DIM SUM - brunch dumplings explained 45| WELCOME TO THE REAL LITTLE ITALY - hint: it’s in the Bronx! 51| NEW YORK’S OWN LITTLE INDIA - heavenly Curry Hill

CAMPUS FEATURES

COVER FEATURES

13| KICKING IT WITH KORILLA - inside New York’s favorite food truck 33| BIENVENIDOS A MENDOZA - studying abroad in Argentina 59| GASTROLOGY - your culinary horoscope

57 culinarianmagazine.com

09| CHEF SPOTLIGHTS - interviews with local MoHi chefs 30| A MEATY QUESTION - to be or not to be a vegetarian 49| PANTRY ESSENTIALS - what you should always have in stock 50| CULTURE CLUB SAMPLER - foodie groups on campus 55| MYSTIQUE OF THE HOMEMADE - all about Westide’s “Maria” 61| WELCOME TO THE WORLD - Culinarian’s launch party!

local review DINNER DATE

spaghetti moment

intimate, affordable, delicious By Zoe Baker-Peng/Photographs by Amanda Tien

For a romantic Lady and the Tramp spaghetti moment, we recommend ordering two different entrées to share. The “mom’s-style” lasagna, for example, cures any cravings for home-cooked food with its well-balanced combination of fragrant tomatoes, hot cheese, and hearty pasta. Often on the specials menu, the ravioli dishes are also a treat. While slicing a fork into the

puffy texture, the ravioli lightly explodes, releasing a steaming, seasoned interior. Cheap and satisfying options include Penne alla Vodka or Gnocchi alla Sorrentina. Pay special attention to the Linguine del Pescatore, however. Although intriguing and flavorful, this dish might not be a good choice for a first date unless you’re planning to share—the black, squid ink pasta (pictured left) will slightly stain your teeth, but if you and your date can laugh about it, the reward is a pleasantly mild brine flavor that complements the shrimp and crab. Check the specials menu for other enticing choices and definitely leave room for dessert. We recommend sharing the perfectly balanced Panna Cotta or indulging in the springy chocolate mousse. Whichever dish or dessert you eat at Max Soha, however, its sure to make you want to come back for seconds—for both the food and a second date. Max Soha is located on 1274 Amsterdam Avneue. For more information, please call (212) 531-2221 or visit maxsoha.com.

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If you’re on the hunt for a first-date dinner venue with affordable, tasty fare and a cozy atmosphere, look no further than Max Soha. You and your date will enjoy an intimate dinner experience sitting at small, candle-lit, wooden tables, while the authentic Italian food and friendly, discrete staff make for a c asual and romantic setting. While there are s everal reasonably priced meat and fish entrées, Max Soha focuses on what it claims are the “best pastas around.” They do not disappoint.

chef spotlights by jenny xu, photos by ortal isaac

CHEF SPOTLIGHTs

Havana Central Curious about the man behind behind the one dollar empanadas specials and the nightly salsa music outside of Havana Central? Read on to learn a little more about where Chef Stanley Licairac goes grocery shopping, his favorite foods in college, and how you can eat a home cooked meal like the ones he prepares every day.

Jenny Xu: What are a few dishes that you think every college kid should know how to cook from scratch? Chef Stanley Licairac: Pancakes, chicken soup and black beans. JX: What was your favorite meal when you were between 18 and 21 years old? CSL: White rice with a fried egg and pickled onions topped with ketchup. JX: What ingredients do you always have in your kitchen? CSL: Fresh and granulated garlic, fresh oregano, fresh cilantro, and Spanish onions. Cannot live without those ingredients. JX: What are your thoughts on snacking? CSL: I snack a lot. It’s always an apple or orange, though I love plums. I’ll go throughout the day s nacking on some fruit, but at the end of the day, at 1 in the morning the last thing you want to do is cook. So you know, I’ll have a ham and cheese sandwich because it’s quick and easy. But I always have some vegetables in the house. You can just throw some veggies, even with tap water, cover it up, put it in the microwave for a few minutes,

drain it after it’s done, drizzle it with olive oil and salt, and it’s a snack. Or instead of having cereal with milk, have it with yogurt—it’s more filling. Chop up a banana and you’re full. JX: Do you have any places to go grocery shopping? CSL: I love Fairway. Oh my God, it’s amazing. I never want to leave. It’s either that or I leave with two carts full. The 125th Street location is probably one of their busiest so that means that the food is always fresh. JX: Do you have any tips for eating well with a super busy schedule? CSL: Saturday I cook for the entire week for the family (I have three kids). I’ll cook steak, chicken, pasta, shrimp, and then I’ll pack it all up. We’ll freeze it and come Monday we’ll pull it out in the morning, put it in the fridge and by the afternoon comes you have a cooked meal. With scheduling, I work 16–17 hours a day, In school your schedule is so erratic—if you find time, it only takes three hours to cook a couple of meals. Let’s say you blanch shrimp. You can easily mix that with some olive oil and veggies and you have a shrimp salad. You can do quite a bit in a short period of time.

CHEF SPOTLIGHTs

Community Food and Juice Community Food and Juice is well known as a place to take your parents for Sunday brunch, but Chef Neil Kleinberg fully understands the culinary black hole that many busy college students often fall into. Here, he talks about tips for eating healthfully, and a few kitchen staples he can’t live without.

Chef Neil Kleinberg: I’d have to say my father. He wasn’t a cook or a chef but he loved to shop. He used to take me to take me to the market all the time, and he loved picking out vegetables and fruits. He had a few things he liked to make, but he wasn’t a cook by any means. But culinarily he inspired me to pick things at the market and explore and look for the best of the best, and to make them simply. JX: Do you have any healthy eating tricks for college kids? CNK: If I order a bagel I order it scooped out. Take all the dough out. And if I’m getting it with cream cheese, I tell them, “listen just spread a little bit,” and then I can really enjoy the bagel part of it—the part with all the sesame and poppy seeds—and I don’t have to get so many calories in that one enjoyable thing. JX: What are a few ingredients that you always have in your kitchen? CNK: Good kosher salt and black peppercorns for fresh ground pepper. What we teach our cooks most is that you have to season the food. Really good olive oil for either cooking or salad dressing or seasoning or marinade really makes a difference. Feta cheese—crumble it on anything. Foods like apples and things like

that, carrots for juicing. Good seven grain bread. You can do a lot of things with good seven grain. A big hunk of Parmesan is always nice. JX: What are some really important kitchen utensils that we should have? CNK: We use those red handled rubber spatulas that don’t melt. You can use them for folding or scrambling eggs or taking something out of a pan. A good nonstick pan for eggs and for cooking anything whether it’s a chicken breast or a piece of fish for sautéing vegetables and stuff. A good heavy bottom pot for boiling pasta or cooking tomato sauce. A kitchen spoon, one with holes and one without for pasta or to skim something off. JX: Why do you think it’s important to eat well in college? CNK: It makes your brain work better. It makes your skin look better. I’m going from restaurant to restaurant, I see so many people each day. I can almost tell what people are eating by what they look like. If you’re juicing, eating good raw products, eating your greens, or eating healthfully, you’re going to just feel, well, good when you get up in the morning. It’ll help you think better, study better, and learn more. If I’m eating well, I’m feeling focused and totally in tune with what I’m doing.

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Jenny Xu: So first off, who or what inspired you to cook?

Charred

to a crisp

text and photos by bethany wong

Mighty Quinn’s decor updates the classic barbecue joint, moving away from the gas station relics typical of Texan joints, toward a more artisanal aspect. The interior is simply painted matte black and outfitted with steel chairs and spruce tables. The storefront opens up like a garage door, keeping the atmosphere grounded and casual. The restaurant runs on a cafeteria counter service model, beginning with meat, moving to sides such as baked beans and sweet potato casserole, and ending with drinks. Counter workers cut the meat, sprinkling a generous amount of flaky sea salt on top as you order. Pitmaster Hugh Mangum has cultivated a menu featuring “Texalina”—a combination of the Texas barbecue he grew up eating and the Carolinian methods he learned from his wife. Texan dry rub mingles with Carolina-style vinegar

sauce, creating a slightly sour sweetness. Meat can be ordered in individual portions (bun optional) or by the pound, allowing for a group of friends to eat family-style. The sausage has the perfect meat-to-fat ratio, which provides a springy, light texture. The brisket is marbled beautifully— the meat falls gently apart while the fat hints at a smokier flavor. The black bark is surprisingly absent of the usual offensive flavor of burnt meat. Instead, the charred parts bring a crisp texture that contrasts with the tender meat. Complimentary pickled cucumbers add a sweet, clean crunch in combination with vinegar slaw. On the Texas-to-Carolinas barbecue spectrum, Mighty Quinn’s lies further on the Carolinas side, lacking the strong smokiness of Texan barbecue that would provide a welcome contrast to the simple, light flavors presented. Overall, Mighty Quinn’s provides an affordable taste of southern cooking in a casual setting and the by-the-pound option is great for sharing with friends and for allowing everyone to sample the entire menu. Mighty Quinn’s Barbeque is located on 103 2nd Avenue. For more information, lease call (212) 677-3733 or visit mightyquinnsbbq.com.

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Although “New York Barbecue” sounds like an oxymoron, it does exist and is quickly becoming more popular. One of the biggest names, Mighty Quinn’s Barbeque, began as a stand boasting the longest lines at Williamsburg’s Smorgasburg. For students craving some wellsmoked meat, Mighty Quinn’s is just the answer.

Ask Tim

Tim Weber, a member of the Columbia Bartending Agency and School of Mixology, shares a favorite drink recipe.

Text by Tim Weber | Photographs by Bethany Wong

In the land of overpriced, complicated drinks, what is a 足budgeted Columbian with a cultivated taste for cocktails supposed to do? One solution is to be your own bartender. You can impress your friends and drink well at the same time with this simple and easy starter cocktail. This basil gimlet is crisp and perfect for any early fall evening. Check out the Columbia Greenmarket on Broadway for basil plants, which are both decorative and useful.

Fresh Basil Gimlet

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Crush 5 basil leaves in a shaker. Add 2 ounces of dry gin, 2 ounces of lime juice, and a few ice cubes. Shake vigorously, discard crushed basil leaves, and garnish with a few fresh ones in a glass.

Korilla kicking it with

ON THE COVER

BY AMANDA TIEN PHOTOS BY AMANDA TIEN AND ORTAL ISAAC

Get inside Korilla BBQ, a food truck that helped start a national movement of mobile food. Amanda Tien interviews Korilla’s founder, Eddie Song, a CEO who’s anything but traditional.

L LOVE AFFAIR

On the day of my Oceanography midterm, I must confess that I was not thinking about plate tectonics and helio-plankton as much as I should have been. Instead, I was planning my lunch: a Korean barbecue burrito with tender chicken mixed with sticky rice and crispy kimchi doused with Korilla’s special tangy sauce. As I answered questions about the mid-Atlantic ridge, I anxiously awaited the opportunity to hang out on the Korilla BBQ truck.

kimchi (n)

traditional Korean side dish of vegetables with seasonings, fermented in jars for varying times to preserve the flavors

Korilla, for those of you who have yet to experience this company’s blend of sass and deliciousness, is a food truck company that features Korean barbecue in a tortilla, taco, or “chosun” bowl. First, you pick your protein: bulgogi (USDA grade rib-eye beef), pulled pork, chicken, or house-made organic tofu. Then choose either sticky rice or BKFR (Bacon and Kimchi Fried Rice—I know, right?). After that, you can get creative with a combination of house-made hot sauces, salsa, cheese, various types of kimchi, and fresh vegetables. Enjoy.

For Culinarian’s first issue, I knew from the get-go that we just had to feature Song and Korilla. With the truck’s permanent dinner location outside of campus every week to Song’s alma mater, Korilla is the perfect blend of campus and city life. I had the chance to phone interview. Read our conversation below, and (spoiler alert!) he offers to let me go on the truck.

bulgogi (n) grilled marinated beef (literally translates to “fire meat”)

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Korilla BBQ is one of the consistently highest-rated food truck companies in New York. It has been featured and highly recommend by Serious Eats, TimeOut NY, and the New York Times. Korilla, a blend of the words “Korean” and “grill,” was founded in 2008 by Columbia graduate Edward “3D” Song, (CC’08, majoring in Economics and Mathematics) who lists his title on his LinkedIn profile as “Founder/Mastermind.” Song and the rest of the Korillinaires have enjoyed the success that comes with being ridiculously fresh (in all senses of the word).

SO CALL ME, MAYBE Amanda Tien: Did you know that you wanted to start a food truck, even while you were at Columbia? Edward Song: In college I wasn’t interning anywhere, but always had the idea that I wanted to be a part of a restaurant. For the restaurant, no one was going to give me a half-a-million dollars, and I realized we could try to make a food truck. We didn’t think we would be “successful” or “popular,” but it was something I wanted to do and had an idea for, so I did it. AT: What was it like when you guys started? Food trucks weren’t as ubiquitous to the street food scene then as they are now, right? ES: Exactly. When we started, there just weren’t a lot of food trucks. We used to literally park off side-streets in front of dumpsters—like there’d be trash in front of our truck, but these were the side-streets we’d sell at. And then other trucks would just start following us there and parking. We don’t have a problem fighting for space now with other trucks partially because of that time, I think. A lot of the other vendors respect us for doing so much so early on in the food truck business, so we have our consistent stops that we go to now and we don’t have to fight for those. AT: How’s the food truck scene doing these days? What’s the future of the business? ES: For food trucks as an industry, it really is a bit of a grey area. They’re very unstable, legally speaking. There are laws about selling merchandise out of parked spaces versus metered spaces, and so there are actually just very few legal spots to park and sell food. In 2010 and 2011, there seemed to be an initiative from the top-down to harass trucks. Now it’s here to stay, I think, because a lot of New Yorkers appreciate and enjoy food trucks. But while there used to be one truck on a block, you may now have four. And now those restaurants that exist there are getting angry because they’re paying thousands of dollars to rent their spaces from big companies and there are food trucks not paying anything

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like that. So if you start pissing off restaurants, it’ll go up the chain, and there may be a lot of political pressure to remove food trucks in the future. AT: Oh man, that would be awful. I would literally cry if there was no more Korilla right outside campus. What’s the future of Korilla, specifically? ES: For Korilla, we’re still continuing to grow. We’ve been doing a lot in terms of catering, promotions, things like that. Right now we’re working on a business plan for creating a restaurant, cataloguing our different appeals and foods, and figuring out what we would do for a restaurant version in terms of decor. But of course, I’m just thinking about the food all the time, constantly. Always eating, always trying.

ES: Oh, yeah…I realized very quickly that I am not a good cook at all. AT: Haha, I know the feeling. I’m a good eater. ES: Yeah, see, you get me. I remember taking chem lab at Columbia and for some reason I just could not get that right. Put this in, put that in, mix it like this, I just couldn’t get it. I realized that I might as well find someone with raw talent, someone who could really cook, and spend my time and energy developing my own skills with other parts of the business. AT: What was your transition like from being a student to living in the “real world?”

ES: While at Columbia, being a student was my AT: What’s it like for you to go into restaurants job. I was fortunate enough to be able to focus on as someone who’s part of the food industry? academics, but that was important. As soon as Is there anywhere in particular you try to go? I graduated, I started taking more classes. There are some classes that are designed specifically ES: I just try to go to restaurants all the time—go for immigrants who are in, or are thinking about to all the good restaurants—not only because getting into, the food industry. These are the I like to eat food, but also to see what they’re guys who are actually prepping your food or even doing. I never worked in a restaurant, didn’t come cooking your food, who are cleaning up the floor from a family restaurant or anything. I really after you eat, and who are washing the dishes approached the food industry from the outside. I afterwards. These are the people who are really the like to notice what a restaurant is doing in terms of spine of the food industry, and the classes are to decor, the menu, the chef, the lighting, everything. help immigrants to not get pigeonholed into these positions. Like, nobody wants to be a dishwasher. AT: Wow, how’d you get started in the kitchen of Korilla without having restaurant experience? AT: That’s a great point. How, then, did you find your culinary genius, Chef James?

A BRIEF HISTORY: FOOD TRUCKS IN AMERICA

1866

Charles Goodnight, big-time Texan cattle rancher, stocks food in an old army wagon to help feed his cowboys while out on the range.

2008 u

Song and like-minded entrepeneurs respond to the recession by making their business mobile and dramatically increasing the number of trucks. Logo via korillabbq.com

Photo via Wikimedia Commons

The Boewry circa 1900, via NYPL

1940s

1900 u

At the turn of the century, late-night lunch (or second dinner) mobile carts become popular in New York as an alternative to diners.

During and after World War II, mobile canteens run by the Salvation Army and US military are approved to support American and allied troops in battle and on base. Photo via Wikimedia Commons

ES: Actually, on Craigslist. AT: That’s awesome! ES: Yeah, it was crazy. In 2008, when shit hit the fan, everyone was out of a job. I probably interviewed 300 people. But I learned a lot about how to interview and how to find the right people. James was one of those people I met. We hit it off right away because we’re both from Queens, but besides just that, he was really interested in cooking the kind of food I wanted to make. At that time, no one was going to culinary school who wanted to graduate and work on Korean food. That just wasn’t happening then. So it was so exciting for me to meet James, who wanted to do just that and work with Korean ingredients.

“People always ask about our secrets, but it’s not really a secret, you know, hiring people who you work well with and creating the energy that you need.” —Eddie Song, founder of Korilla BBQ

AT: How’d you guys work out the unique flavors of Korilla? ES: I’d take him to restaurants with me and really sit down and show him what I wanted to make. You know, oh I like this dish, eat that, and tell me what you think is in it. Go to another place, oh I love this, do you think you could make something like that? And we experimented for a while and eventually made our own recipe book.

ES: The first was just making the marinade. This was critical. We tried over and over again to make just the right recipe. The second was to emphasize healthy and natural ingredients, which is a staple in Korean cuisine. In Korean restaurants, you have banchan, and I wanted to incorporate that experience into banchan (n) Korilla. Another important facKorean tapas of fresh tor was the texture. Part of the ingredients with rice; small reason that Korean food is unique dishes to be shared with the whole table is not just because of the tastes but it’s also because of the texture. In Korean food, the texture is paramount to the experience. There’s great flavors, but it needs to come together in your mouth in a very specific way. AT: What’s the daily routine like on the trucks?

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AT: What were the top three things that were important to you when you were developing the menu?

AT: What was the toughest part of that? ES: One of the most stressful things about Korilla, man, I got nervous just driving the truck. On the one hand that’s great about a mobile business b ecause you can drive anywhere, but we could get into an accident at any moment. We’d put all our eggs in one basket. As you get older, you learn to cope with the stress and control your emotions. You know it is what it is, you’ll either put up or shut up. Crying never got anybody anywhere, you know? AT: Haha, yeah, what you’re saying is actually coming at a very good time for me. I’m so stressed out with school. ES: Oh yeah, I remember that, stressing about finals. This is advice that I would give, then, to the “younger generation”: stress is an emotion that is temporary. And the quicker you realize that, the easier it will be to deal with that and the better everything will be. I had a tumultuous upbringing, growing up in New York City, but you grow up and learn to deal with it. AT: I appreciate that advice. Sometimes it’s hard to remember to just take a minute to relax. One thing I really like about going to Korilla is that it’s just fun. The truck has a great atmosphere. Korilla has a unique style visually—can you talk about the branding a bit? ES: Yeah, I’m glad you asked about that. There were two images I had in mind when I was trying to figure that out. The first was very New York, kind of gritty, you know, reflecting city life. When you think of New York, you think of skyscrapers, graffiti, and I liked that. I love the street fairs, street life, street

everything. The second idea was to appeal to the masses. I thought that too much grittiness might turn people away. And remember at the time there weren’t a lot of food trucks so we didn’t want to freak a nybody out, we wanted to be credible. So the choices were between that edgy, street style, or playful, whimsical, almost cartoonish, and that second one is what we went for. Our logo was still actually done by a fairly famous graffiti artist because I still wanted to have a bit of that in our visual style. AT: Okay, I have kind of a random question too: I heard you and the other Korillainaires hang out and break out the N64 from time to time, too. Do you guys really do that? ES: Hell yeah. AT: Favorite MarioKart character? ES: Of course, I’m Asian, so my favorite one was Yoshi, but you know also Princess Peach. She’s pretty good. You gotta watch out for the Princess. AT:

I’m

going

put

that

the

article.

ES: Do it. Also, did you want to go on the truck? Just go by when it’s at Columbia and I’ll let them know to let you on.

TAKE IT TO GO At 11 a.m., I go under the bridge to the School of International and Public Affairs on Amsterdam Avenue and 116th Street, and knocked on the door of a tiger-striped food truck. One of the cooks looks at me quizzically and lets me know that they’re not opening for a little while. I tell them that I’m there for the magazine, that Eddie Song should have called ahead. The cook grabs his cell phone and checks it. “Dude texted me. Aww, what, he thinks I’m not workin’ in here, checkin’ my phone every five seconds?” he jokes, and invites me in. “I’m Tae,” he says, and pointing to the other two guys on the truck, “and that’s Mitch with the toppings and James on the grill.” The truck’s cooks, or as they call themselves,

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ES: When we first started, we were doing everything ourselves. You know, we’d wake up at 6 and go to the commissary, load the truck up, drive it out, cook everything, sell it, load it all back up, and literally be doing the dishes at midnight before we were finally done. Now we have two trucks. We’ve recruited everyone we work with, but I mean when we started, I recruited some of my unemployed friends. It was a great way for us to chill together but also to make money. People always ask about our secrets, but it’s not really a secret, you know, hiring people who you work well with and creating the energy that you need.

“Korillinaires,” are snarky, efficient, loud, and precise. Even as the lunch crowd rushes in and descends upon them, the Korillinaires heap piles of bulgogi (which was prepared by the night crew and marinated in Korilla’s original recipe all night) onto steaming grills and artfully prepare burrito contents that, once folded, will become perfect bites of flavor. Even as they argue about what playlist will get blasted from the truck’s speakers next, they still maneuver around each other gracefully through the narrow aisle of the truck.

back refrigerator), taking photos all the while chatting it up with the employees of a food truck that’s been one of the eating highlights of my undergraduate career. Mitch Wong offered to make me a burrito, and I ate it happily while the guys told me about their experiences during a lull. James Jung commented on his fellow Korillinaires, “They’re all really good guys. We’re a lot of fun, but when things get busy, I know I can count on them. That’s what you really need, you know? People you can count on.”

Standing inside the kitchen of a Korilla truck, it’s easy to see the camaraderie that Eddie praises as a Korilla BBQ parks on 117th Street and Amysterdam Avenue fundamental part of the business’s success. I relish Monday–Friday, 5–8 p.m. For more information, please visit korillabbq.com. in my vantage point on the truck (pressed against the

neighborhood profile

EAST VILLAGE text by erin larson

s photographs by

simone norman and lina smorra

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Between 14th and Houston Streets, on the east side of Broadway, lie rows of tenements selling everything from Neapolitan ice cream sandwiches to vintage clothing. The hippies and beatniks living in these colorful b uildings seceded from the Lower East Side in the 1960s to create Manhattan’s center of counterculture: the East Village. Accessible from the red line, the East Village houses every type of cuisine and more bars than any other neighborhood. The shopping scene ranges from thrift stores selling T-shirts for 50 cents apiece to upscale boutiques available by a ppointment only. The East Village is kind of like the L ouvre—you have to go a few times to see everything.

This East Village landmark began as a pool emporium where founder Antonio Veniero served baked goods to patrons. These desserts became so popular that he entered them in contests and won awards all around the world. Vinieroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pastry shop continues to sell traditional and regional handmade Italian goodies.

Highlights of the food scene in the East Village include The Crooked Tree, for expensive crêpes but a cozy interior and friendly service (the chicken and goat cheese crêpe was worth every penny, even the extra dollar for pesto); Big Gay Ice Cream Shop, where you’ll want to try the crunchy, sweet and just-weird-enough-to-warrant-a-secondhelping Salty Pimp; and Veniero’s for over thirty different types of dessert (the Lobster Tail ruined my diet—as if it wasn’t already ruined two ice cream cones ago). There are of course a myriad of other restaurants to satisfy every taste and craving. Within a block radius of every subway stop in the East Village there are at least 10 good places to eat, so next time you want to go out, just hop on a train. You don’t have to be a hipster to shop here, but it is recommended. There are about a dozen resale stores from cheap thrift shops, to designer consignment, and everything in between. Independent boutiques hobnob with more conventional stores like an U rban Outfitters and Nordstrom Rack Union Square. Buffalo Exchange has “previously loved” clothing from those stores at discounts of over 75%. Cadillac’s Castle, No Relation Vintage, Apt 141, and Eleven Consignment Boutique all stash cool vintage duds and have extensive collections of cowboy boots.

chill

shop

There are coffee shops everywhere with a good atmosphere for reading (if you don’t have a book, just go to The Strand bookstore) and nice people who don’t judge when you order a small coffee just to use the bathroom. Ost Cafe labels all of their glassware with the coffee name, and walking through it feels like traversing your grandma and crazy aunts’ living rooms, all in one cozy space. If you feel like eating your ice cream outside or just taking a break from the city, Tompkins Square Park offers some great hipster watching and you may even see a photo-shoot (I saw Cara Delevigne on set there!). You could spend several hours in The Strand, known for its large collection of rare and used books. Pretend you’re Patti Smith (a former employee) and find whatever you’re looking for, be it that copy of War and Peace you just want to own to say you’ve read, or some weird psychological thriller that’s out of print everywhere except here. The nightlife in the East Village caters to all crowds and all budgets. Elsa is very aesthetically pleasing (think Anthropologie but with alcohol) and serves up creative cocktails like the Mercy of a Rude Stream (lemongrass, pink peppercorn vodka, vanilla, honey, mint, lime, and baked apple bitters) and the Two French Sisters (vodka, St. Germain, lemon, orange, bitters, and champagne). Death + Company and Booker and Dax at Momofuku Ssäm are popular for dates and nights when you want to feel fancy. The Summit Bar is your choice for a low key sort of evening out with friends or with your aunt. But remember, in the East Village bars are like restaurants—there are 10 on every block. If you would rather dance (or if you are not 21), Webster Hall lets ladies in for free on Thursdays and boasts multiple levels with music for every taste.

chill

party

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eat

PIZZA party Text and photo by Caroline Lange

upscale

Try this recipe when you have a more time to devote to dinner. Fresh pizza dough and homemade sauce give the whole meal a certain authenticity that you won’t get anywhere else.

ingredients 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 small yellow onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes 2 teaspoons all-purpose Italian seasoning Salt and pepper 1 (16-ounce bag) fresh pizza dough 4 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped Add additional toppings to create a specific combination of flavors, such as fresh mozzarella with canned artichokes and carmelizaed onions.

method Preheat oven to 500°F. Heat the olive oil in a medium pot over medium-low heat. Add the chopped onion and cook until translucent, about 8 minutes, being careful not to let it burn. Add the minced garlic and cook 1 minute more. Mix in the canned tomatoes with their liquid, the Italian seasoning, and salt and pepper to taste. Raise heat to medium and stir using a wooden spoon, making sure to break up the tomatoes. Bring the sauce to a low boil, and let simmer uncovered until thick, about 20 to 25 minutes. On a floured surface, stretch the dough with your hands into a large rectangle. Carefully transfer to a baking sheet and bake for 6 minutes. This will make for a crispier crust. Remove the dough from the oven, spread the cooked tomato sauce onto it, and add any optional toppings onto the tomato sauce. Distribute the chopped basil, top with a bit of pepper, and return the pizza to the oven. Bake until the cheese bubbles, about 7 to 10 minutes. Serve within 20 minutes with a big, green salad.

in a rush

Throw these individual pizzas together for a quick dinner. Invite friends and make a party out of it by letting everyone pick their own toppings.

method Preheat oven to 500Â°F.

2 white or whole wheat pita breads 12 ounce jar tomato sauce 1 (8-ounce) ball fresh mozzarella, sliced into thin rounds 4 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped Add additional toppings, such as sliced red bell peppers, canned pre-sliced black olives, and pepperoni.

Place the pitas on a baking sheet so that they arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t touching and bake for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove when they start to look crisp, but not burnt. With the pitas still on the baking sheet, cover with tomato sauce and top with mozzarella slices, chopped basil, and any other toppings. Broil for another 1 to 2 minutes, being careful not to let them burn. Serve within 20 minutes.

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ingredients

Using a sharp knife, carefully slice the pita breads in half so as to make two separate rounds (not pockets). A good way to do this is to hold the pita flat on a cutting board and to use the tip of the knife to slit the edge of the pita while rotating the bread slowly and carefully, using the knife to cut all the way around.

the origins of the mythical

New York Bagel text and photos by ortal isaac

Look up the word “bagel” in the dictionary and you only find, “noun, a dense bread roll in the shape of a ring, made by boiling dough and then baking it.” Pretty simple and straightforward. Nothing more than a circular lump of dough, right? Wrong. This definition doesn’t even begin to cover the history and importance that the bagel has to New York City and its inhabitants. The bagel has been one of those iconic New Yorker foods for years. City-dwellers often say that bagels are to us what grits are to Southerners. The pairing of lox—or smoked salmon, from the word lachs (“salmon”) in German—with cream cheese spread onto said bagel is also one of the

most traditional things to eat in this city. If the word doesn’t sound familiar, I guarantee that after a bit more poking around New York food establishments, you’ll quickly get familiar with the various types of lox toppings: Nova Lox, short for Nova Scotia salmon, is cured with a brine, smoked, and salted. Scotch, or Scottish-style salmon, is flavored and cold-smoked with a mixture of sugars and spices. Finally, Gravlax refers to the traditional Nordic salmon preparation that involves coating the fish in a mixture of spices, salt, and sugar. You might also hear the terms “lox” and “schmear” in reference to these combinations (schmear means “cheese” in Yiddish, or “spread” in German). Indeed, these terms reflect the New Yorker dish’s

The origin of the word for bagel is not known, but many experts agree that it might stem from the Yiddish word beigen, “to bend.” Whatever its etymological past, emigrating Jews from Poland (where the bagel is referred to as bajgiel) developed the Bagel Bakers Local 338 in the early 1900s, a trade union locale whose members were the city’s foremost bagel purveyors. By the mid-20th century, after the bagel had been introduced into the American diet, bagels were combined with cream cheese and lox.

The combination emerged as a kosher alternative to the popular eggs benedict brunch dish, possibly spurred by the advertising blitz for Philadelphia cream cheese at the time. In fact, during intermission at a 1951 Broadway show entitled Bagels and Yox, bagels and lox were handed out at intermission as a snack. The dish has now entered American culinary tradition and is even affectionately referred to as a “BLC” (Bagel, Lox, Cream Cheese) by many. Now that you’ve got the history, there’s nothing stopping you from going out into the city to sample this famed New York specialty.

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rigins as a traditional component of Jewish cuisine o (especially from Eastern Europe where bagels were a staple of the national diet), that entered the United States when Jewish immigrants came to New York.

BAGEL FINDER No matter the neighborhood, Manon Cooper and Lizzy Wolozin have got you covered. Photo by Ortal Isaac

Absolute Bagels

(Morningside Heights) 2788 Broadway 6 a.m.–9 p.m.

Bagel & Schmear

(Flatiron) 116 E. 28th St. Mon.–Fri. 6 a.m.–6 p.m. Sat./Sun. 6 a.m.–4 p.m.

Bagelworks

(Upper East Side) 1229 1st Ave. 6 a.m.–9:30 p.m.

Kossar’s Bialys

(Lower East Side) 367 Grand St. Sun.–Thurs. 6 a.m.–8 p.m. Fri. 6 a.m.–3 p.m.

Best Bagel and Coffee (Midtown West) 225 W. 35th St. Mon.–Fri. 6 a.m.–5 p.m. Sat. 8 a.m.–3 p.m.

Heaven’s Hot Bagel (Lower East Side) 283 E. Houston St. 9 a.m.–8 p.m.

Ess-A-Bagel

(Stuyvesant Town) 359 1st Ave. Mon.–Fri. 6 a.m.–9 p.m. Sat./Sun. 6 a.m.–5 p.m.

Bagels on the Square (West Village) 7 Carmine St. 24/7

Brooklyn Bagel & Coffee Co. (Chelsea) 286 8th Ave. Mon.–Fri. 6:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Sat./Sun. 7 a.m.–10 p.m.

This isn't to say that it's impossible to manage vegetarianism at Columbia. To their credit, the dining hall cooks and staff do make an effort to provide vegetarian options. The problem, rather, is that unless one is a principled vegetarian, one will likely see going meatless as an inferior meal option. I'm firmly of this view: there has seldom been a day where I feel that I can do without meat entirely. It shouldn't be so, however. One should be able to go meatless without a second thought and with an effectively satisfying vegetarian replacement. The dining halls' options, no matter the effort put into them, are still poor replacements for meat. To avoid hasty generalization, though, I need to be clear about exactly what I have a problem with. Ferris Booth and John Jay’s pasta stations are good vegetarian options, as are the increasing number of meatless options at the action station (although I do resent the replacement of the Yucatan wrap by the eggplant Parmesan hero on Mondays). But,

these are not things that one can eat everyday—pasta can begin to grate after a while, and not in the good, Parmesan-cheese way. What I really have a problem with are the buffets, which provide so-called "variety." Here one will usually see the same, driedout plantains or yams, or the horrors that are the steamed vegetables. Other more exotic nights also feature meat replacements such as vegan chicken. If one is a casual vegetarian looking for a true vegetarian main course, one is either relegated to vegetables that have had all the flavor bled out of them, or to meat replacements that will never be as good as the real thing.

one judges “aIfvegetable on its ability to be a steak, it will disappoint.

“

As a kid, I never understood the almost omnipresent trope of kids disliking their vegetables. Growing up in a house where we cooked only vegetarian food, I couldn't conceive of not liking vegetables—the food that I ate three meals a day. College really opened my mind, though. When I look at the vegetarian options in our dining halls, I begin to see why there are people who say that steak is their favorite vegetable. Vegetables are often seen as nothing more than rabbit food—an unsatisfying substitute for the glorious umami-bearing goodness that is meat. Even for me, so used to vegetarian food dominating my diet, meat has become a quotidian occurrence, for the vegetarian options in our dining halls are so painfully limited.

Text by Sireesh Gururaja Art by Allison Scott

Vegetarian options can be so much more. With the same effort that goes into cooking meat, a batch of vegetables can be transformed into something that is an actual option, rather than a supplement or a horror. My favorite example is from an episode of Master Chef Australia, aired during the third season (I watch strange TV). The challenge was to cook an all-vegetarian meal for people who say that their favorite vegetable is steak. The winning cuisine did not surprise me: Indian food, the vegetarian background that I grew up on. The proof behind this concept

is wonderful: cheap, all-vegetarian, Indian restaurants, which, on account of their vegetarianism, tend to be cheaper than their omnivorepandering counterparts. A great example relatively close to campus is Doaba Deli, where one can get a huge, hot, meatless dinner for $7. This isn't to say that Indian food is entirely, or even primarily vegetarian—there is a strong meat presence in the food, especially in the coastal regions. However, culturally, it is estimated that only 30% of Indians eat meat regularly, and it is one of the easiest cuisines in which to find vegetarian options. The real stigma that vegetarianism has to overcome is that it is held to the standard of meat, and is expected to perform well. If one judges a vegetable on its ability to be a steak, it will disappoint. However, if one acknowledges that vegetables sometimes do not have enough innate flavor to just steam, one can create a real alternative to meat —one that excels as an option in itself, rather than a compromise for health. Right now, I'd go for Doaba's Bitter Gourd Curry over a steak. It might dull the bitterness of not wanting to be vegetarian.

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A MEATY QUESTION

monday simple banana pancakes

Sweet

tuesday

two-ingredient cookies

Sweet

Mix together a mashed banana, eggs, and baking powder, and start cooking these pancakes for Sunday brunch. Feel free to add blueberries, nuts, or chocolate chips for some delicious add ins. Best served while listening to Jack Johnson and sipping on mimosas.

Mash a few bananas and fold them into some oats and any other mix-ins you can think of. Roll into small balls and bake for 15 minutes on a greased cookie sheet for some super-easy-to-make cookies.

wednesday

thursday

banana and flax crackers

Savory

For a healthier version of the Two-Ingredient Cookies, replace the oats with flax seeds. Serve with jam and enjoy over breakfast, as a snack, or for dessert. They’ll be sure to get you through those readings sitting on your desk.

john jay banana split

Sweet

For a dining hall version of the old classic, top a sliced banana with some frozen yogurt and an assortment of John Jay toppings. You’ll have yourself a delicious banana split to share for two—or to enjoy yourself.

the week of the banana By Jessica Geddes and Manon Cooper/Photographs by Martin Ong

friday

caramelized bananas

Sweet

You’ll be sure to impress with this delicious (and easy to make) dessert: heat some butter in a non-stick pan, add over-ripe, sliced bananas and top with brown sugar. Remove from heat when the bananas have caramelized, and serve hot topped with whipped cream. If you’re feeling fancy (and don’t live in the dorms), douse with Grand Marnier and light on fire to flambé before serving.

sunday

saturday

Sweet

banana smoothie Grab cups of yogurt, ice, and milk, as well as a banana on your way out of the dining hall and you’ll have a full set of smoothie ingredients. All you’ll need now is a blender to mix it all together. Feel free to experiment with different combinations as well—try orange juice instead of milk, or add peanut butter or mixed fruit.

Savory

For a great alternative to the classic PB&J, start the week off by making yourself a p eanut butter, nutella, sliced banana, and granola sandwich with toasted slices of bread. It’ll be perfect for those times in the dining hall when nothing else looks good.

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candy sandwich

Bienvenidos a

Mendoza

Text by Manon Cooper | Photos by Timarie Chan

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Manon Cooper, a multilingual student, had a variety of options to choose from when planing her study abroad semester. The winner was Mendoza, Argentina. 足Located over 5,000 miles south of New York City, Mendoza is known for 足crafting elegant wines and attracting adventure travelers.

My flight to Argentina was leaving early the next morning. The bags were packed and the boarding tickets printed—I was ready for my arrival into the land of abundant beef and mate. Having heard about the Argentine love affair with all things non-vegetable, I knew I’d have to savor the last meal I was having with my parents at home. That night they’d made their special roast chicken served with my dad’s famous innards and toast-based stuffing and my mom’s rice with onions. There was a big arugula salad on the side and a fruit tart for dessert. The chicken that night was so moist and flavorful, and never had I enjoyed a green salad or tart as much as then. I savored the meal to its fullest as I knew I wouldn’t be eating my parents’ cuisine again for the next five months.

Upon actual arrival in Mendoza, though, any nostalgia for foods from the homeland fizzled out and gave way to some must-needed cultural adaptation. My efforts now focused on stringing words together into comprehensible S panish sentences and adopting the Argentine accent and slang. I strove to acquire a liking for the ever bitter, earth tasting mate tea that the country is so famous for. I learned to accept the b uses’ frequent tardiness and occasional strikes.

Empanadas Do I look like a local? I think I look like a local.

About three weeks into living in Mendoza, I was asked for directions to the Parque San Martín. Well, I wasn’t able to answer, but being asked in the first place was a cultural ego-booster like no other. After having spent so much time e xploring the city wearing shorts and sunglasses, flaunting my map and Spanish-English dictionary, I’d finally gotten external confirmation that I didn’t look so touristy. Granted, I was waiting for the bus in a residential neighborhood outside the city center, so there wouldn’t have been many tourists flocking there anyway, but there still must have been something about my demeanor and appearance that made me look somewhat local. Fuller integration, however, happened when I brought to class my host mom’s empanadas de carne, the Argentine counterpart to the classically American PB&J. A delicious, meat-and-onionstuffed turnover, empanadas are a perfect on-the-go treat— easy to transport and delicious warm or cold. Each bite into those empanadas de carne took me back to those simple years of elementary school

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when I’d sit down for lunch with my friends and we’d each open our lunch boxes to see what our parents had caringly prepared for us. In this L atin American, college version, we’d all meet up before Spanish class on the grass outside the u niversity building, take out our packed lunches, and share stories about how we were adapting to our new, Mendocino lives. When I’d see my carefully wrapped empanadas with napkins and an apple for dessert, I couldn’t help but picture my host mom packing my lunch that morning with as much care as did my mom in elementary school. Whether with peanut butter and jelly sandwiches back at home or empanadas de carne in Argentina, there’s something quite special about finding that familiar motherly affection in a new home away from home. Alfajores Yet another excuse to eat the impossibly sweet dulce de leche.

Once I discovered empanadas and the other savory wonders of Argentine cuisine, most of my pre- departure concerns about food fell by the w ayside, but I was nevertheless a little anxious about the types of sweets that I’d be eating all semester. After my first breakfast in Mendoza with my host mom, consisting of an assortment of cookies and jam, and sampling a few ice cream flavors at an heladería downtown, I figured out pretty quickly that the Argentines have a sweet tooth too big for their own good. The croissants almost always have a sugar or glaze coating, pastries are usually filled with jam, and there are a striking number of different types of cookies available in grocery stores and kiosks. Never before had I seen so much sugar available under so many different forms or served on so many different occasions during the day. I realized that despite my honest beginnings at cultural emersion, I’d have to acquire a taste for cosas dulces if I was to remotely fit in at all. As soon as I bit into my first alfajor upon recommendation from my host mom and Spanish teacher, all anxiety that I might have had about sweets withered away. Essentially a chocolate covered, shortbread cookie sandwich filled with dulce de leche, a sweet, rich milk jam, the alfa37

jor is an amazingly satisfying pastry that has a balanced combination of crumbly, buttery, creamy texture and rich, sweet, chocolaty taste. While I wouldn’t recommend eating too many at once, a few alfajores are always a most welcome treat, even for those who (shhh) might not actually enjoy eating dulce de leche by the spoonful straight from the jar, as do so many Argentines. For someone who doesn’t have a sweet tooth, alfajores were the perfect solution that enabled me to take part in the national hype about dulce de leche.

Malbec Because Mendoza is the wine capital of South America.

After a couple of shared meals together, my host mom asked me why I ate my food so quickly. Argentina is often criticized for its controversial government and poor work ethic, but something the Argentines know how to do well is how to relax and slow down. Ever since my host mom’s perceptive observation, I started chewing more times per mouthful of food, and only let myself prepare the next forkful once I’d swallowed the first one. I stopped checking the time while waiting for buses after realizing that doing so only made me more anxious about arriving late. I adopted the custom of sharing a daily mate over galletitas y charla (cookies and chatting) with my host mom, even on days when I had a million things to do.

The Argentine culture is easy to get used to. It’s only been a few months since coming back home to the States, and I dearly miss the city I came to fall in love with and the p eople with whom I became friends. Just you wait Argentina, I’ll be back before you know it.

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I also took up the custom of enjoying wine with friends in outdoor café patios on lazy afternoons, which was about as easy to integrate into my lifestyle as was acquiring a liking for alfajores. I kid you not when I say that Mendoza’s city slogan is the “land of sun and good wine,” and frankly, it’s not so hard to see why: surrounding the city are c ountless wineries and vineyards that exhibit the Andes cordillera as their backdrop. Wine is often less expensive than water, so there’s always a good excuse to enjoy a nice bottle of Malbec with some friends over lunch or at happy hour in one of Mendoza’s restaurant or bar-lined streets. It felt good to take it easy and enjoy the company of friends outside the constraints of time, and assimilating into this easygoing lifestyle by leisurely drinking wine while catching up with friends was a perfect way to do so.

Certai n Charm text and photographs by matthew tsim

Bosie Tea PARLOR

Bosie’s charm is not limited to its cozy atmosphere, though, and this becomes clear upon a quick glance over its menu.The tea shop boasts a staggering collection of over 100 handsourced and blended fine loose leaf teas, ranging from the full-bodied Irish breakfast to the peachy K enyan Crested Crane. True to its French roots, Bosie also features a dessert selection that can be enjoyed alongside a pot of tea. One highlight is the Ispahan, a large macaron filled with sweet rose buttercream and lychee and fresh, tart raspberries. Eating this delicacy is a delightful exercise

in textural interplay–the crisp macaron shell crunches and shatters, surrendering to the silky sweet and sour cream inside. Bosie also has a collection of regular macarons worth checking out, o ffering classic flavors such as dark chocolate alongside more exotic ones like bacon and maple syrup. The scones, served with clotted cream and raspberry jam, are noteworthy, too. The scones are flaky and buttery, while the clotted cream and raspberry jam interact to make a blend that is light, fluffy, and sweet. Don’t expect to have a full meal here as portions are small and expensive. If you’re looking, h owever, to pamper y ourself with a session of high tea and exquisite pastries, consider Bosie Tea Parlor. The tea shop is busy on weekends, so make a reservation in advance, and while you’re in the neighborhood, catch a vintage film screening at the Independent Film Center.

Bosie Tea Parlor is located on 10 Morton Street. Please call (212) 3529900 or visit bosienyc.com.

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Tucked away in a corner of West Village’s Morton Street, Bosie Tea Parlor has brought the character of a classic French tearoom to New York City. There’s a certain charm to this 22-seat café. Between the bookshelves showcasing Bosie’s impressive loose tea collection and the well-loved copies of E.B. White’s famous Here is New York in which waiters serve checks, it’s easy to feel at home in this quaint tea shop.

Understanding Dim Sum Text by Kunal Mehta, Photographs by Matthew Tsim

f there is anything universally identified with Chinese culinary tradition, it’s dim sum. These “bits of heart,” to translate literally, consist of a wide assortment of dumplings (steamed or fried, and sometimes immersed in soup), spring rolls, buns, and rice cakes. Vegetables, shrimp, and pork are the most common ingredients, 41

although chicken and beef can be found in many preparations as well. In a traditional setting, these delectable assortments of brunch snacks are served from early in the morning till the afternoon and are accompanied by a steady flow of tea. Dim sum is usually enjoyed as hors d’oeuvres, in servings of four or six—perfect for sharing across the table—with seafood and meat soup before an entrée. As for the different types themselves, experienced diners advise leaving the spiciest for last, so as to be

able to enjoy the full range of flavor throughout an entire meal. The contemporary concepts and traditions of dim sum trace a long line of development, beginning as Cantonese teatime nibbles for peasants. These dumplings then became popular in eastern Chinese cities, where they are now a routine, weekend family meal. Traditional venues offer dim sum in bamboo or steel baskets that are carted past diners who are offered (or who may call out)

of course, Chinatown. The latter houses a great selection of traditional and contemporary dim sum restaurants. Some of the most renowned include Jing Fong, which offers an authentic, c art-style dim sum experience; Golden Unicorn; Buddha Bodai, which o ffers K osher and vegetarian options within a more tranquil setting; Wo Hop; Nom Wah, a hole-in-the-wall, takeout establishment that is free of the opulence of traditional dim sum restaurants; and V egetarian

Dim Sum House. The standard rate for dim sum averages to around $2.50 per basket of 4 to 6 pieces. Dim Sum forms an integral part of the Chinese gastronomical culture, and as such, it is a prominent landmark in New York’s food scene as well. Whether you’re searching for an authentic dim sum brunch or late night snack after an e vening spent downtown, Chinatown’s eateries will not disappoint.

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arious choices. Orders are tallied v on scratch cards that are paid out at the end of the meal. More contemporary locations serve dim sum at all times of the day, and use a menu rather than the cart system. Almost all dim sum places, however, maintain the practice of sharing tables with other diners during busy hours. As a city graced by a vibrant Asianimmigrant culture, New York has a multitude of dim sum venues, mostly clustered in Flushing, Queens, and,

DREAM MEAL a student’s visit to the famous Jean-Georges Text and photographs by Yvonne Hsiao

From Shanghai to New York City, this iconic and modern French eatery lives up to “dream meal” expectations.

aving been trained to cook in French culinary tradition, it’s always astonishing to enjoy a meal that imprints itself in your visual m emory, exhilarates your palette, and distinguishes itself from all other dining experiences— especially on a special occasion, such as my birthday. For a dream meal, Jean-Georges is a place to consider. This restaurant serves modern French food, embracing both concepts of nouvelle and haute cuisine by preserving the traditional attention to detail and presentation, while maximizing the flavor of the ingredients in their basic forms. With that, Jean-Georges’s ambience, presentation of food, and service all reflect a step back from the classical rich indulgence of French food, while preserving and furthering both the class and complexity of the dishes. Expect fresh, bold courses that are both rustic and inventive.

Surrounded by the happy chatter of fellow diners, the waiter brought us the first course, the amuse-bouche. A platter containing the complimentary selection of assorted hors d’oeuvres that outline the chef’s “big ideas in small bites.” First to tease the palette was the pea soup. The chili oil foam topped a smooth pea and garlic purée, forming a perfumed halo around the creamy, granular foundation of peas and garlic. The delicate heat never overwhelmed the dish, tempered by the coolness of the peas. Next was the rhubarb sushi, demonstrating modern French cuisine’s acceptance of Japanese influences. Using, in raw form, a plant traditionally used in pies, Jean-Georges harnessed the plant’s uncooked texture when marinated in ume juice. The complex flavor profile included sweet and tannic notes from the rhurbarb playing off of the toasted sesame seeds, and of the fragrant shiso belting the sushi down the middle. The rice had the traditional amount of vinegar in it, but instead of being hand-pressed with body heat, it was instead chilled and thinly sliced. The pea tart

was equal parts sweet and salty. The gelatin pea purée pudding lay atop a bed of sweet crumble, which provided a texture foil to the tart, while a single sprout garnish provided a burst of freshness that both the pudding and crumble lacked. The artistic smear of thick citrus paste next to it was a flavor bomb of concentrated purée, consisting of orange zest, lemon juice, and mango flesh. This first course highlighted Jean-Georges’ Asian influences and seasonal focus on vibrant green peas, the latter of which will change regularly. Allowing the food to become its best self involves selecting top-quality ingredients, and is probably the number one reason why I would eat at such a restaurant for a dream meal—from the farm to the market to the table, a chef’s dedication is evident in the dining experience. The raw Santa Barbara sea urchins entrée is an example of Japanese influences blending with German ones through three generous urchin slices resting on crisped black bread. A thin slice of jalapeno pepper lay covered

with yuzu demi-glace, the former giving the dish a nice bite, while the sauce overwhelmed the dish slightly with its sourness by smothering the sweet nuttiness of the well-handled urchins. As I bit into my first half, I realized that this gooey, crunchy, and soft appetizer was a clever and exciting combination of the traditional Japanese raw urchin and toasted German rye bread, providing both textural and visual contrast to enhance the meal. Creativity comes from both having a distinguishing palette, as well as an attitude of openness to the endless combinations of materials to work with. The reverence with which this fragile urchin was handled, contrasted with the coarse, sturdy bread underneath, made a poignant point about haute cuisine—just as there are as many techniques as there are chefs, there are also as many dishes as there are chefs who have ideas. Eating at these places will give you ideas for plating and cooking, as well as getting to know your own preferred style of cooking or eating better. The yellow fin tuna ribbon is Jean-George’s signature appetizer. Hand-peeled avocados formed a circular base on which tuna, cut into square noodles, were curled atop with thin slices of radish. Ginger marinade, with spicy chili oil, pooled beneath. There was a pleasant cognitive dissonance when twisting the fork around spaghetti-like tuna, and biting into a texture unlike pasta. The color presentation was reminiscent of spring, illustrating the creativity and attention to detail that only haute cuisine can deliver. Creamy avocado and lean tuna complimented each other instead of being heavy in their richness, true to nouvelle cuisine principles of allowing ingredients to express the best versions of themselves. The only unpleasantness came from the fact that many Japanes- American places use this sauce for a salad dressing. The marinade was so reminiscent of the Westside Market fare so it became difficult to enjoy the dish. The crispy confit of suckling pig sat in a perfect rectangle above a circular shrine of jalapeno pea purée, crispy on top, caramelized perfectly to a sparkling, glistening gold, and unaggressively seasoned in its marination. A dollop of smoked bacon marmalade added a charred and pleasant acidic note to the dish, and strategically sprinkled fleur de sel highlighted the flavors of the meat and fat. The crunch of the top layer reached my teeth first, and then the fat slides in to blend together the textures of the crisp side and chewy, fork-tender meat. The confit had depth to its richness, meaning that it was not merely oily but had the different nuances of butter and caramelized noisette alongside the natural fragrance of pork fat. This was enhanced when paired with the simple pea purée, which had

just a hint of jalapeno towards the end of each flavorful bite. The pristine edges of the plate, just warm to the touch, testifies to the organization of the restaurant staff (not that I had any doubts about that when two waiters arrived to simultaneously clear away our utensils). As a customer at a three Michelin starred restaurant, all customers are important—it’s an incredible feeling to just sit back and eat, and to not need to pick out the stems in the argugula, or brush off an excess of sauce. Gourmet dining combines excellence in both the food itself, and its hospitality. No restaurant can survive without a degree of either, but Jean-Georges scores top marks in both. No French meal is complete without dessert. Our sampler consisted of dark chocolate with hazelnut filling and rice crisps, salted caramel interior with fleur de sel, rum ganache, and rose cream with dried petals. Hand-cut marshmallows with a texture reminiscent of fluffy meringue were sprinkled with dots of vanilla bean. Lavender-infused rice crisps bathed in milk chocolate, fragrant with the aroma of both cocoa and flower. The rose macarons were mini, with a cake-like interior moistened by sweet sauce in the center, covered with hand-shredded rose petals on the eggshell crust. The traditional French marmalade jelly, rolled in sugar and diced into cubes, tasted of dried mandarins. Already full, we polished off the entire plate anyways. Everything, from the decoration to the service, was done with detached elegance, while preserving personal attentiveness to each table. The daises in a porcelain pot were a foil for the understated class of the floor length windows and the impeccably dressed waiters and manager. With its dynamic twists and tweaks to French cuisine, this high-class restaurant is a place that can be trusted to be the dream meal of any food lover. It’s a place where you come to appreciate the food, but you will also feel that the entire restaurant is appreciating your presence there. Each plate set in front of you is the final product of hours of preparation under the hands of chefs and apprentices with years of practice under their belts. It’s easy to appreciate the dish, if only for the amount of work that went into it. I promise you that the moment you take a bite, you will be hooked to this lovely combination of haute and nouvelle French cuisine. Jean Georges is located on 1 Central Park West. For more information, please call (212) 299-3900 or visit jean-georgesrestaurant.com/jean-georges.

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(________________ WeLcOmE tO tHe Re

Text by Hannah Sotnick

Arthur Avenue Retail Market offers authentic and affordable Italian fare in a neighborhood steeped with tradition. Sometimes fondly called the “Real Little Italy of New York,” Arthur Avenue, in the Belmont section of the Bronx, is packed with Italian-American restaurants, markets, butchers, and pastry shops that have been cultivated by generations of Italians. The retail market concentrates the food of the area into a covered bazaar with the small-town charm reminiscent of a real Italian m arket. It’s a pleasantly jarring experience in New York. Men roll cigars in the market’s center, several varieties of tripe rest behind the butcher’s counter, and freshly-made cheese hangs to dry above the deli. The m arket prioritizes quality over quantity—its modest size offers a manageable, yet reasonably varied, selection of dining and shopping experiences. Try The Bronx Beer Hall to ease into the experience, where visitors can order drinks and leisurely enjoy a cheese plate or an array of crostinis with a group. The menu provides the most classic American fare along with some hidden Italian gems. When selecting crostinis, the peppered pecorino spread is a real highlight. The spicy, rich, and warm cheese pairs with a drizzle of balsamic that perfectly cuts the hotness of the pepper. Mike’s Deli offers the most charm. Employees, eager to please palates and fill stomachs, welcome visitors with the warmth of someone serving a home-style meal. Cheerful and talkative, they urge guests to sample freshly baked breads and ask people what they’re in the mood for, making menus obsolete. For less than $10, two people can fill up on a shared hearty, sloppy panini packed with the varied flavors of roasted vegetables and

________________) eAl LiTtLe ItAlY

Photography by Sarah Berlinger,, Hannah Sotnick, and Simone Norman

smoked mozzarella, served alongside pasta with pesto. The freshness of the mozzarella is evident, not merely from the twists of cheese that hang to dry overhead, but also from its pulled texture and pleasantly forceful flavor. Café al Mercato’s pizza is more authentic than the usual New York version, with the typical Italian square shape and a dense, floury crust. The zucchini pizza is layered with mozzarella and zucchini strips, cut thinly to add a delightful texture but not much taste. A home-style sauce is delicately spread on top. The pizza as a whole is slightly too salty but builds anticipation for a sweet dessert. Arthur Avenue Market Pasticceria, true to Italian form, offers many gelato flavors and traditional Italian pastries. The cannolis come freshly stuffed with a rich filling—delicious, albeit a bit too sweet. The tiramisu’s cream filling,however, is bland and lacking in texture. Arguably the least enticing part of the market, the Pasticceria underwhelms both in flavors and atmosphere. Visitors might do better venturing to one of the other pastry shops on Arthur Avenue for dessert. Students should set aside a large span of time for this visit, prepare to share many dishes with friends, and unhurriedly enjoy the market’s atmosphere. Travel time is about 40 minutes, but a visit to the market can precede a venture to the New York Botanical Garden, the Bronx Zoo, or Fordham University.

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Arthur Avenue Retail Market is located on Arthur Avenue and East 187th Street in the Bronx. For more information, please visit arthuravenuebronx.com.

Local REVIEW PARENT FRIENDLY

Do the Noodle Dance text and photo by amanda tien

Jin Ramen is the place to take out-of-town visitors. Whether it’s parents, friends, uncles, childhood loves, or anyone else, this ramen and sushi joint by the 125th subway station is the place to go. Jin opened just a few years ago, riding the wave of David Chang’s Lower East Side famous Momofuku Noodle Bar. Jin has great, consistent flavors and cheerful, helpful staff. Inside, Jin has a wonderfully busy atmosphere with chefs calling out and steaming bowls of rice being prepared before your eyes. Everything’s good, but some favorites include the Gyoza Dumplings, Pork Buns, Beef and Rice Bowl, and Tonokutsu Ramen (ask for curly noodles and pickled ginger). There are options for everyone, but the noodles are of course the specialty. Each gourmet bowl comes with extra ingredients such as bamboo shoots and soft boiled eggs that add texture and diversity to each soup. The flavors are sharp and complex, broths brewing for hours and meats seeped in well-crafted marinades. While you’ll likely get a table quickly during the early afternoon for lunch, expect at least a 30 minute wait during the dinner hours (5 p.m. to 10 p.m.) because the news of Jin Ramen’s superior quality has certainly gotten around. Jin Ramen is located on 3183 Broadway. For more information, please call (646) 559-2862 or visit jinramen.com.

MIGAS con HUEVOS

By Natalia Torres/Photographs by Amanda Tien

A Traditional Mexican Breakfast It was the week after midterms when I went back home to Mexico with two friends from Columbia. We were sleep deprived and malnourished after half a semester subsisting solely on caffeine and Butler Library pastries. All we wanted to do was sleep, but my friends in Mexico had other plans for us. We ended up going out that night and didn’t come back until 3 a.m., yet before falling asleep, I made sure to tell everyone that breakfast would be at 10:30 a.m. sharp, at which point my Columbia friends asked me, “Can we skip breakfast and sleep in?” To them, it was a reasonable request. But they didn’t know what it was to have a Mexican breakfast. In Mexico, breakfast is a social event, the opportunity to try the greatest variety of dishes, the main meal of the day. A good breakfast leads to a good day ahead, so no, you can’t just skip breakfast—you have to savor it. This is my favorite way of doing so.

Method

1 teaspoon olive oil 1 corn tortilla Finely ground salt and pepper ¼ medium white onion, finely chopped 1 serrano pepper, finely chopped 1 egg

Remove the crisp tortillas from the pan and let them drain onto a paper towel. Sauté the onions over medium heat until soft, about 1 minute. Add the peppers. Crack the egg directly into the pan, add the tortilla chips, and stir until all ingredients are well mixed. Remove from heat once the eggs are slightly golden. Serve immediately with refried or black pinto beans. Refrigeration is not recommended.

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Ingredients

Heat the oil in a large pan over medium-high heat. Slice the tortilla into 5 pieces horizontally and 5 vertically. Add the cut tortilla into the oil, add salt to pepper to taste, and mix. Let the tortilla fry until golden and crispy, about 3 minutes.

pantry essentials

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text by amanda tien | art by joanne raptis

I’m a senior now, but as a freshman I had no idea what the best things were to keep in my dorm kitchen. While these options may seem simple, you’ll be grateful to have them when coming home from a long night out or a study session in the library. Use these tips to get a head start on the search for the perfect pantry collection.

strawberries and almonds Fresh fruits are a great way to stave off the study blues (and scurvy). Almonds are healthy and filling. Pick up to-go packets at grocery stores so you can always have a nosh in your pocket.

avocados

Let me make this easy for you. There will never be a time when an avocado is not a good idea. Avocados help your skin look great, are rich but still healthful (I can tell because it’s green), and best of all, you can put it on anything (hummus sandwiches, eggs, or Chipotle leftovers) and even eat it alone (I love it with a heavy douse of sea salt).

eggs

Eggs are one of those magical things that can last a while and transform into a variety of things, including filling breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. Because eggs are fairly easy to prepare, look up variations to keep yourself entertained (breakfast burritos and tofu scrambles are some of my favorite options). Most notably, they provide you with a lot of those nutrients that we sometimes forget that our body needs, all wrapped up in an efficient little package.

oatmeal Besides being the moniker of an online comic series sure to keep you entertained after seven hours of studying, oatmeal is a fantastic way to start your day. Sure, it’s healthy, but it also provides a lot of opportunities for customization. Think of oatmeal as the palatte for your culinary creativity. Savory? Sweet? Blueberries? Party in your mouth? Hell yes.

annie’s boxed mac and cheese Put that Easy Mac away. You’re embarassing yourself. You’re in New York now, and it’s time for the big leagues. If you’re not going to make the trek to S’MAC or M acbar (which you should sometime before you graduate), then you should definitely try Annie’s boxed macaroni and cheese. Offered in a variety of flavors, this o rganic fancy-pants meal is incredibly delicious and will e nsure you’ll never go Kraft again. My personal favorite is Alfredo with a sprinkling of dill seasoning. Morton Williams on 116th Street and Broadway also frequently does two for $3 specials. The only downside to Annie’s is its high sodium content, so eat sparingly.

In this recurring feature, Culinarian gives you a taste of the on-campus choices for foodie extracurriculars.

CULTURE CLUB

sampler text by Isabel Genecin

columbia bartending agency AND SCHOOL OF MIXOLOGY Almost half a century old, this two-part student business is entirely student-run. It is composed of Columbia Bartending Agency (CBA) which is made up of Columbia University students who have achieved top scores on the bartending exam and gone through an interview proces, and the School of Mixology which is open to the public. “The CBA contributes enormously to the food and drink culture at Columbia,” explains Arielle Kogut, current Managing Director of the CBA.“It teaches students how to bartend in social settings and educates students on alcohol safety.” For more information about CBA or to register for classes, pease visit columbiabartending.com. Photo by Ortal Isaac

CHALLAH FOR HUNGER “A lot of people don’t get to cook on campus, so it’s nice to cook and also to help here and abroad,” says Rebecca Battat, Challah for Hunger’s Co-President. Columbia University Hillel funds all of the supplies, and the proceeds go to the American Jewish World Service Sudan Relief and Advocacy Fund and to the Hebrew Union College Soup Kitchen. “People tend to be intimidated by challah and think that they shouldn’t come, which is absolutely not true,” explains Sarah Friedhoff, the Publicity Manager. “We love to teach people and we love to bake!” For more information, please visit facebook.com/CUCfH or hillel.columbia.edu/challah-hunger Photo by Bethany Wong

potluck house “Food fosters a great sense of community,” explains Potluck House resident Cathy Li. Indeed, this special interest house is a community where people gather around food. The potluck dinners are usually themed (like BananaLuck, where everyone brought banana-related food), and the house often invites student bands and other creative campus groups. Li encourages Columbia students to attend future potluck dinners: “it’s a great place to come if you want to cook food, share your food, talk, listen to music, and relax.” Potluck House is located at 606 West 114th St. Dinners are held every Friday night at around 8:00 p.m.

Photo by Shirley Dai

FEELGOOD

For more information about FeelGood, please visit facebook.com/FeelGoodCU

NEXT UP... Ready for your close-up? Culinarian can’t wait to get to know your group! Send us a message at culinarianmagazine.com/contact if you’d like to be featured.

Photo by Elizabeth Heyman

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As President and Co-Donation Manager, Benjamin Schechner explains, “FeelGood is part of a nation-wide movement to end global hunger through sustainable means.” FeelGood sells grilled cheese sandwiches made from donated supplies and sends all of the proceeds to the Hunger Project, an organization with a mission to end hunger through sustainable, grassroots, and women-centered strategies throughout the world. The ingredients change every week based on the donated supplies. Schechner recommends the Johnny Appleseed in particular, made of cheddar, apple, honey, and cinnamon.

New York’s Own Little India

The first sign that the street scene is changing is the smell. The door of a spice shop opens, and a gust of air conditioning carries with it a mélange of scents redolent of an Indian kitchen. New York is a city of smells to be reckoned with, the more pungent ones coming from its food carts and out the doors of restaurants and bakeries. Curry Hill is one of the city’s richly smelling enclaves, carrying the idle meanderer or thali-plate- seeking tourist into South Asia, at least for a few blocks. The area known as Curry Hill, extending from East 27th through 30th Streets along and surrounding Lexington Avenue, is one of New York’s “Little Indias.”

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Curry Hill is unique for its centrality in Manhattan and its complex diversity of South Asian restaurants and shops that brightly clutter the Murray Hill area (yes, “Curry Hill” is a pun on “Murray Hill”).

”

Curry Hill became known as such within the past decade, after a period of growth in the South Asian stores in the area. The area was dominated by Armenians until about 30 years ago, when waves of Indian immigration began to bring a greater South Asian presence to the area. Soon, Indian shops and restaurants began to dot the streets, giving the area a fresh vibe. The famed Kalustyan’s Spices and Sweets, for example, was originally an Armenian shop— now it is dominated by primarily South Asian flavors, but also carries a range of international ingredients as well. The culture of food has played a significant role in the growth of this Little India. There are now at least 24 Indian restaurants within a six-block radius of Curry Hill, in addition to the spice and trinket shops. The popularity of the cuisine has meant financial success for the area, enriching it with an ever-growing assortment of restaurants. While Indian culture is emphasized, Curry Hill s torefronts display a diverse array of culture. Not just Indian, but plenty of Pakistani and Bangladeshi stores abound,

For home chefs

If you’re looking to recreate the Madras curry you just devoured without leaving your own kitchen, head to Kalustyan’s Spices and Sweets for rows of spices, chiles, mushrooms, and oils from India and around the world.

Kalustyan’s Spices and Sweets 123 Lexington Ave. (212) 685-3451

For on-the-go eaters

You know it’s a good sign when Indian taxi drivers swarm the sidewalk outside of Curry in a Hurry on their break. Get ready to chow down on a range of options from lamb curry to tandoori chicken to a range of samosas and pakora.

Text by Rebecca Walden, Photographs by Minh Tam Nguyen

Curry in a Hurry 119 Lexington Ave. (212) 683-0900

For date impressors

Curry Hill is undergoing changes. As the area prospers, more chic and trendy shops are beginning to take over. Many Indians are moving to another Little India in Jackson Heights because of the lower rents and larger Indian community. But Curry Hill still has a distinctly South Asian flavor that resonates from its spice racks and baskets of naan.

Vatan 409 3rd Ave. (212) 689-5666 culinarianmagazine.com

and the Indian stores come from a wide range of unique regions within the country. From Gujarati to Goan cuisine, Curry Hill seems to have it all. In this growingly prosperous section of Manhattan, diners can choose from a range of South Asian dining styles, from cheap, on-the-go samosas at Curry in a Hurry, to fine dining experiences at Michelin-starred Tamarinde 22, a few blocks off the main Curry Hill strip. The area is a paradise for vegetarians, but meat eaters can find their favorites just a few doors from the many entirely vegetarian restaurants.

Vatan transports not just your tastebuds but all your senses to India. The walls of the entirely vegetarian restaurant are painted with murals of a typical Indian courtyard, and a 20-foot Banyan tree further shades the dimly-lit dining room. The only dining option is a $31 per-person prix-fixe menu, but you can dine to your stomach’s overstuffed content with unlimited refills of the small plates of food. Go hungry, and leave room for the rice pudding.

mmm... Text and photos by Elizabeth Heyman

mango chicken tikka masala

ingredients Mango Chicken Tikka Masala 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 2 bell peppers, sliced, divided ½onion, diced, divided 1 bunch scallions, sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric 2 tablespoons mango paste divided 1 ½ tablespoons tomato paste 1 cup coconut milk 2 teaspoons paprika 1 tablespoon sugar 4 skinless and boneless chicken breast halves, cubed 1 mango, diced ½ teaspoon curry powder Coconut Rice 1 cup rice 1 cup coconut milk ½teaspoon curry powder Mango Chutney ½ mango, finely diced ½ teaspoon curry powder ¼ teaspoon mango paste ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ¼ cup scallion, finely chopped

method Mango Chicken Tikka Masala Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large pan over medium-low heat and stir in half of the sliced bell pepper, half of the diced onion, and scallions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the peppers are soft and onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add in the garlic and continue stirring for about 2 minutes. Add the cumin, salt, ginger, cayenne pepper, c innamon, and turmeric, and let sizzle for about 3 minutes. Add the mango and tomato pastes and raise heat to medium until the mixture boils. Lower heat and allow sauce to simmer for about 8 minutes. In a small bowl, mix together the coconut milk, paprika, and sugar. Slowly pour the mixture into the sauce, and stir to combine. Continue to simmer the sauce, stirring constantly, until the sauce has thickened, about 10 minutes. In a separate pan or skillet, heat the remaining tablespoon of vegetable oil and ½ tablespoon o f mango paste. Making sure that the oil is hot, add the chicken and sear it. Add the sliced mango, remaining onion and peppers, and curry powder and cook until the chicken is almost cooked but still pink in the center, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the chicken and accompanying juices to the sauce mixture, and simmer until the chicken is completely cooked. Coconut Rice In a small pot, combine the rice, coconut milk, 1 cup water, and curry powder. Cover and bring to a boil. Lower heat to the lowest setting and allow to cook until all the liquid has been absorbed by the rice, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Serve the chicken and rice hot with the mango chutney on the side. The chicken and rice can be refridgerated for a few days and reheated before serving.

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Mango Chutney Mix together all the ingredients, making sure that the spices are evenly distributed.

b the mystique of the

Homemade Text by Emily Atlas Photographs by Emily Atlas and Bill Milne Photography (used with permission)

You may have wandered the aisles of the 110th Street Westside Market NYC and noticed a sign like the one below. Emily Atlas did, and realized that Maria’s homemade goods are e xclusive to this location. So who is Maria? Emily answers that question.

orningside Heights houses several establishments that help the hungry student get through late night readings or difficult problem sets. One of those eateries (and a neighborhood mainstay) is Westside Market, which features Maria’s Homemade Prepared Foods. Maria Zoitas, the chef behind Westside’s creations, has had a direct impact on the stomachs (and sanity) of many a Columbia student with her filling, nutritious, and hearty comfort food that sells at prices that rival that of a (mediocre) dining hall meal. A popular late-night choice, the dinner platter includes a huge piece of Maria’s moussaka along with generous helpings of orzo with vegetables and Israeli salad. That first bite of moussaka only gets through the top layer of beautifully browned, thick béchamel sauce. Buried underneath are moist, flavorful minced meat, zucchini, eggplant, and peppers, and a base layer of sliced potatoes drenched in the meat sauce. It’s messy, and satisfying. While the moussaka is salty, the Israeli salad is acidic, bright, and juicy. It is lightly dressed with lemon juice, scallions, and parsley, none of which overpower the beautiful fresh tomatoes and the thinly sliced and seeded cucumbers. The orzo is equally impressive—the pearly morsels of pasta are tossed with gently-cooked grape tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, and basil. It’s a perfect choice for the overbooked college student.

The meticulous attention to detail in the dinner platter would make one curious about about Westside’s Maria. Via email, she explained, “my husband John founded Westside Market, so it was natural for me to prepare the foods that were being created and served onsite to our customers,” bringing her mother’s knowledge of cooking to Westside. Maria was “born and raised on the island of Lefkada,” and “joined [her] mother in the kitchen where she shared [her] family secrets of traditional Greek cooking.” The provenance of her Greek recipes helps explain why Maria’s moussaka is such a popular choice at Westside. However, Westside offers creative dishes of many various cuisines. “A lot of the new dishes that I come up with come from playing around in the kitchen. I go through the store, pick up ingredients that catch my eye, and create new dishes from that. Sometimes it works out well. Other [times] it takes a few tries to get everything perfect.”

"A lot of the new dishes that I come up with Maria’s advice for novice chefs is but valuable: “Experiment. come from playing simple What I have learned is something think is great, won’t be, or vice around in the you versa. I have also made some dishes kitchen." that did not come out great the Westside’s “Made by Maria” is a great alternative to impractical dorm cooking. At Westside, the busy college student can be instantly transported to their mother’s kitchen, even if that kitchen is on the Aegean Sea. When ingredients of high quality are paired with care and love, food can bring us home.

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first time, but after trying a couple different methods, swapping out ingredients or even a different presentation, the dish would be popular.”

Seeking Sookk

Irritated by the 10 minute waits for mediocre foods at neighborhood Thai restaurants?Venture on for another five minutes until you find yourself in front of a pair of narrow glass doors, which open wide onto the inside of what appears to be a warm Eastern palace. Arguably one of the best Thai restaurants in the area, Sookk has one of the most budget-friendly and comprehensive lunch deals in Morningside Heights with its four-course lunch special. Little Buddhas look down from pedestals and intricate bird cages float on the ceiling above you as prompt waiters bring warm vegetable soup, gently spiced and swirling with bok choy. Food arrives on rectangular ceramic trestles, beautifully portioned with conical mounds of rice, vegetable studded nests of noodles, and two laden skewers of chicken satay or crisp spring rolls as appetizers on the side. Skip the fried tofu, which suffers from dryness, for their high quality meats, or enjoy an extra helping of Sookk’s vegetarian offerings. Fresh sprouts, caramelized onions, or baked tofu pieces surprise in every dish ensuring that no two bites are quite the same. text by jenny xu photo by minh tam nguyen

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Aquarius

The Water Bearer: Drink Trends (Jan. 20–Feb. 18)

Aquarians, with their love for debate and higher thinking, ought to understand that tea is wisdom. Forget coffee. You water-bearing rebels will find intellectual rendezvous even more tea-licious when trying different tea grades, growths, terroirs, and combinations. Get yours at Podunk or Bosie Tea Parlor.

Aries

The Ram: Dairy Trends (Mar. 21–Apr. 19) Aries, the friendly and tolerant milk-giving sheep, will become an alcoholic. Yes, my fluffy white friends, if you like wine and cheese, you’ll inevitably like wine in cheese. Alcohol-infused cheese is totally under-21 approved and totally worth a trip to Murray’s Cheese (try Sartori Merlot BellaVitano).

TAURUS

The Bull: Meat Trends (Apr. 20–May 20) Despite its bovine determination, the Taurus bull is going out of fashion. The bird is the word! With beef consumption dropping, chickens will walk all over cows with their pickled chicken feet. Nibble on some at Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan. And chickens have already subsumed the humble pig. Just ask Annisa’s Chicken Stuffed with Pig Trotters. The Twins: Pairing Trends (May 21–June 20) The Gemini twins (cue Miley Cyrus’s “The Best of Both Worlds”) will get crafty this year with craft cocktails paired with foods. You say wine pairings, I say beverage pairings: boldly flavored bites will read the gastronomic minds of their liquid sisters, trained by Russian zakuski traditions (hors d’oeuvres paired with vodka). Watch Eleven Madison Park and Booker and Dax for the latest.

Cancer 59

Fishy fishy under the sea, who is tastier than thee? Piscean escapist tendencies will ensure that fishes escape the fishing nets and the Dungeness cold-water crab takes to the nets instead. This sweet and fleshy sea treat, declared the state crustacean of Oregon, is snapping onto plates from Bouley to Joe’s Shanghai. Get your claws on it ASAP—it’s in the stars.

Gemini

Pisces

The Fish: Seafood Trends (Feb. 19–Mar. 20)

The Crab: Local Trends (June 21–July 22) The self-healing crab won’t want any pan-pacific pineapple or Timbuktu tomatoes. It won’t even want any West Coast wines! Cancer crab is a hermit, and he wants local, traceable, sustainable, and seasonal produce. For a taste of this ever-emerging trend in this age of global awareness, try Home Restaurant or ABC Kitchen, or simply swing past a greenmarket!

GASTR

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The Scorpion: Anti-Trends (Oct. 23–Nov. 21) Scorpions sting. Stay away from scorpions. Stay away from lichens. Yes, lichens. Who thought that sprinkling some foraged rock moss over your plate would be a trend? Not me. Inspired by Denmark’s famed Noma, NYC restaurants such as Jungsik are following the foragers. But honestly, try them nowhere, or the cosmos will smite you.

Scorpio

The Archer: Best Trends (Nov. 22–Dec. 21) So Sag, you pleasure-loving archer, what will be the bull’s-eye pick in food trends? Call me crazy, but I am obsessed with duck eggs. Chicken eggs will crack under these larger, tastier, richer orbs of ivory, not to be hidden in a batter, but glorified like in Guilty Goose’s duck eggs benedict. Or purchased by the dozen at Whole Foods Market. YOLO? More like Yolko.

Sagittarius Capricorn

The Goat: Carry-Your-Emotional-Luggage Trends (Dec. 22–Jan. 19) The sympathetic Capricorn goat can sometimes let its sad little hooves sink into chocolate binges. But don’t get stuck in the past. If you’re going to eat your emotions, you may as well be trendy about it. The humble chocolate brownie will be out-sugared by the butterscotch blondie this year—hit up Fat Witch Bakery or Hot Blondies Bakery whenever the hormones hit.

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The Scales: Health Trends (Sept. 23–Oct. 22) Other than the seafood diet (“I see food, I eat it”), dieting is way overrated…or is it? An estimated 1% of Americans are celiac, yet a $7 billion gluten-free industry makes this trend the biggest since sliced bread. From Tu-Lu’s Gluten-Free Bakery to Risotteria, chefs and bakers alike won’t just tailor to G-free, but will actually design menus around it. Band together, Libran diplomats, and go against the grain.

LIBRA

lin u C r You pe o c s Horo

The Virgin: First Time Trends (Aug. 23–Sept. 22) Virgos are said to exist in the mind. They are mysterious and elusive, just like pop-up eateries and supper clubs. Companies such as the Guerrilla Culinary Brigade are fueling this popping trend, so read the signs, get those first-timer jitters, and let surprise gastronomy seduce you.

VIRGO

ROLOGYary

Leo

The Lion: Spice Trends (July 23–Aug. 22) Who will be the fierce and fearless lion to chase Sriracha the rooster off his Pride Rock perch? This condiment will spice up the concrete jungle: Korean fermented gochujang. Track down Seoul Food, the Korean food truck, to slap some gochujang on your bibimbap.

WELCOME TO THE WORLD

Events Manager Amelia Rosen, Business Manager Amy Fu, and Editor in Chief Amanda Tien planned our themed launch party for Issue 1. Buoyed by the support of other groups and fellow students, the magazine was happily launched into existence. With dinner cooked and raffle prizes offered up by the Executive Board, the party was not only a way to share the publication with readers but to celebrate the hard work of all its staff members. Congratulations, Culinarians!

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Party photos by Ortal Isaac. Check culinarianmagazine.com for more photos!

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Left: multimedia art by Hannah Sotnick Back cover: original art for Culinarian by Allison Scott

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cover art for Culinarian by Allison Scott