Culinarian | Volume 1, Issue II | Winter 2013-2014

C

ulinarian THE PASSPORT ISSUE

Volume I, Issue II | Winter 2013-2014

an expert’s take on the international cultures of

u

cheese

traverse the culinary continent of

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Australia

food trucks

reinvent the paper bag lunch with

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restaurant reviews CHEF INTERVIEWS FOoD TRENDS ADVENTURES RECIpes and much more

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Photo by Alex Nguyen; Cover Photo by Amanda Tien

C EDITOR IN CHIEF Amanda Tien (CC’14) MANAGING EDITOR Manon Cooper (BC’14) CREATIVE CO-DIRECTORS Amanda Tien (CC’14) Alycia Gideon (BC’16) EDITORS Zoe Baker-Peng (BC’16) Isabel Genecin (CC’15) Meena Lee (CC’15) Rebecca Pottash (CC’15) Lizzy Wolozin (BC’16) Jenny Xu (CC’15)

ulinarian

a food magazine at columbia EXECUTIVE BOARD Amanda Tien (CC’14) Manon Cooper (BC’14) Amy Fu (SEAS’15) Rebecca Pottash (CC’15) Ortal Isaac (GS’16) Tiffany Ong (CC’15) Jenny Xu (CC’15) Amelia Rosen (BC’15) Alycia Gideon (BC’16) Meena Lee (CC’15)

President Vice President Treasurer Secretary Content Advisor Structure Advisor HR Director Events Manager Design Representative Editorial Representative

BUSINESS MANAGER Amy Fu (SEAS’15) PR AND EVENTS MANAGER Amelia Rosen (BC’15) PHOTOGRAPHY MANAGER Ortal Isaac (GS’16) DESIGNERS Alycia Gideon (BC’16), Amanda Tien (CC’14) DESIGN SUPPORT Faith Donaldson (BC’16), Soomin Kang (CC’16), Martin Ong (CC’16), Tiffany Ong (CC’15), Lizzy Trelstad (CC’16) CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Lacey Minot (BC’17), Lian Plass (CC’16), Allison Scott (CC’15) STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS Minh Tam Nguyen (CC’15). Martin Ong (SEAS’16), Amanda Tien (CC’14), Matthew Tsim (CC’16), Bethany Wong (SEAS’17) CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Sarah Berlinger (SEAS’16), Aida Cheng (BC’17), Rebecca Deczynski (BC’16), ­Savannah Kuper (BC’14), Tara Mohtadi (CC’17), Amelia Moulis (CC’14) CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Zoe Baker-Peng (BC’16), Rebecca Deczynski (BC’16), Megan Dinnerstein (BC’14), Savannah Kuper (BC’14), Ashley Mendez (CC’15), Brennon Mendez (CC’17), Amelia Moulis (CC’14), Rebecca Pottash (CC’15), Amanda Tien (CC’14), Matthew Tsim (CC’16), Bethany Wong (SEAS’17), Jenny Xu (CC’15) WEBMASTER Amanda Tien (CC’14)

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who is a culinarian?

The magazine was started by Amanda Tien (CC’2014) and Manon Cooper (BC’2014) in the Fall 2012. This issue marks the product of a year-long endeavor to create professional content and a brand new infrastructure.

The other members of the Executive Board answered when Amanda and Manon put out a request for a team of leaders to assist them with this project. The Executive Board has met weekly since January 2013, even Skyping and emailing over the summer. The team for this issue is over 60 people. Issue 2 signifies a success of perseverance and student leadership.

Issue 3 is currently in production. Visit our website to apply to become a part of our staff, learn more about the magazine, and read our online issues that follow students’ food travels throughout the world in a curated blog format.

We hope you enjoy this issue of Culinarian. www.culinarianmagazine.com

letter from the editor Ever since last summer, I knew I wanted Culinarian’s second issue to be called “The Passport Issue.” Even today, passports hold a great sense of romanticism and idealization of adventure—they imply a sense of freedom, a sense of nationhood, a sense of individuality. Between those colored, textured covers lie blank pages that speak of possibility. Weathered ones with bent corners evidence a well-traveled past. Most notably, passports speak to two commonalities: they give us the chance to try various cuisines from around the world, and they force us to reveal that absolutely terrible photo of ourselves to the (probably) judgmental customs official.

In this second issue, Culinarian opts for the first of the two commonalities. By flipping through these pages, you’ll have the chance to prepare Old World family dishes (see “Polish Pierogi: A Traditional Family Recipe” on page 23), to visit a Japanese tea garden (see “Afternoon Tea in a Japanese Garden” on page 41), and to learn about the complicated international world of cheese-making (see “A World of Flavor: The Cultures of Cheese” on page 11).

Working on a school publication is not an easy task. It requires long hours spent writing, editing, photographing, and designing content while also studying, working at internships or part-time jobs, attending club meetings, and catching up with friends.

The ambitious might even find time to sleep. Things are different at Culinarian, though, because working on this magazine provides us with an opportunity to explore our passion for food and good company in an entirely new way. And what’s not to love about that?

We hope you enjoy Culinarian’s Passport Issue! x.o.

Amanda

The Editor in Chief in Puerto Rico with friends. Photos by Zach Zazueta.

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Amanda Tien, Editor in Chief

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issue 02 TABLE OF CONTENTS 9

11

53

43

Restaurant reviews

RECIPES

9 | Taste of a Ethiopia

23 | Polish Pierogi

Just across the Brooklyn Bridge

27 | Creative Concotions: Haru Sushi Bring a date to this classy U.W.S. locale

32 | Campus Food Truck Tour Get to know the local street food

A family recipe rooted in tradition

31 | Easy Enchiladas

Invite friends and have a party

43 | Bun Thit Nuong

Try this Vietnamese classic in your kitchen

41 | Afternoon Tea in a Japanese Garden

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Have an authentic and delicious outing

INFORMATIVE & OP-ED

45 | Leopard at des Artistes

7 | Menu Decoder

Parent-perfect polenta near Lincoln Center

53 | The Authentic Indian Table Visit Swagat in the neighborhood

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FEATURES 11 | The Cultures of Cheese An expert’s insight on international production

35 | Flavors of the Great Southern Land Explore the culinary heritage of Australia

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Plus original artwork throughout the magazine! Check out the mixedmedia back cover by Lian Plass.

A humorous and useful guide

20 | Baguette Finder Discover the city’s bread

25 | Eating Ethically A vegan’s perspective

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menu decoder

Cuisine Française x Text by Jenny Xu | Art by Allison Scott

Aïoli: Mayonnaise with garlic and none of the social stigma. À la carte and Prix-fixe: Your level of hunger, your willingness to do math, the state of your wallet, and whether or not your brain freaks out when faced with too many options all come into play when faced with the choice of ordering from the à la carte or prix-fixe menus. Order each course separately with à la carte or get set courses for a set price with the prix-fixe.

Amuse-bouche or Amuse-gueule: A bite-sized morsel sent to the ­table before a meal, by the good grace of the chef. It is unclear who is more amused—your mouth or your waiter as you look up, eyes w ­ idening, as if to silently wheedle, “Please, sir, I want some more.”

Apéritif and Digestif: Drink the former to take your mind off the stomach grumbles, and the latter to forget exactly how large your food baby is.

Brûlé: Who can forget Amélie’s elfin grin as she

Charcuterie the carnivore’s paradise: a plate of various meats.

Think a grown-up Lunchable with a nicer presentation.

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holds up a spoon before tap-tapping said implement onto the caramelized pane that tops her crème brûlée, cracking the candied sugar open to reveal the custard beneath? Another reason brûlés are amazing: ­whether ­savory or sweet, some form of fire (oftentimes a blowtorch) is ­involved in their making. Quirky pyromaniacs, this cooking ­technique is for you.

Compote: Fruits cooked in sugar and water, served hot or cold. Left to its own devices, the compote can turn into jam.

Confit: Cooking meat slowly in its own fat, or preserving fruit by full immersion in sugar. When eaten, a confit yields a nigh religious experience of delicate texture and taste.

Consommé: Clear broth, like chicken soup without noodles, chicken, vegetables, and, best of all, the slightly unsettling sheen of oil. It’s the Caribbean Sea of soups.

Coulis: Blended fruits or vegetables used to create a smooth sauce as a base or side to a dish. Who knew you could ever whip up anything so classy with something as simple as a Magic Bullet?

Petit four

Wee little desserts. G ­enerally adorably ­ decorated cakes, c­ookies, or puff pastries, often served with tea or coffee. ­Scientifically proven to make you coo, and in extreme cases, feel ­inexplicable urges to peruse Etsy while watching New Girl.

Crudité: The vegetarian’s comeback to charcuterie.

Beautifully sliced vegetables, often served with some sort of sauce or vinaigrette.

Fricassée: Despite sounding like a curse word from the Gibberish dialect, this is a dish made from chopped meat that’s been dusted in flour, sautéed, and then ­simmered in liquid ­until it ­coalesces into a sauce-like ­consistency prior to being served.

Ganache: Take cream, heat it up, pour it onto some chocolate, and mix until smooth. This is what you imagined Willy Wonka’s chocolate river to look like.

If your inner Augustus doesn’t siphon up the whole batch, leftovers can be rolled, chilled, and dusted with cocoa powder to make chocolate truffles.

Gastrique: An odd couple of caramelized sugar and vinegar, used to add a sweet and sour punch to sauces.

Génoise: A versatile sponge cake made with whipped eggs instead of leavening. The base of many desserts, from jelly rolls to tiramisu (in its sliced, ladyfinger form).

Jus or Au jus: Roasted meat presented in its pan drippings, or juices.

Réduction: Sick of weak sauces and thin-tasting liquids? Crank that burner to high and let it all boil away, enhancing the flavor and thickness in less time than the average infomercial!

Terrine: The name of a type of trapezoidal, lidded, earthenware cookware, in addition to the loaf of meat that is often cooked within.

Velouté: The term derives from the French word for “velvet” and is a sauce made of butter, flour, and light chicken or fish stock. One of the perhaps lesser known, five designated sauces of French ­cuisine, whose ranks include the popular béchamel, hollandaise, and ­tomato.

Viennoiserie: Baked goods made with yeast dough or puff pastry. The Regina George of this clique is probably the croissant, but other members include baguette, brioches, chouquettes, and Danishes. These perfect breakfast foods are from France. (God, Karen, you can’t just ask people if they’re Viennese.)

Flambé For the alcoholic ­pyromaniac, add your poison of choice to a hot pan, light it on fire, and watch in glee as it bursts into flames. Bananas and ­common sense ­recommended.

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When you’ve finally escaped the library, the last thing you want to do is have to chew over the conundrum that many menus have now become before getting rewarded with dinner. When you’re ­ dining in a French restaurant, use the guide below to get to the eating part of dinner a little faster.

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A Taste of

Ethiopia Within Reach Text by Ashley Mendez| Photos by Tara Mohtadi

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To begin, be sure to request a cup of the off-the-menu Ethiopian Spice Tea (which tastes similar to rooibos tea).

As for comestibles, don’t miss Ghenet’s injera, a slightly tangy and spongy flatbread made from the gluten-free teff grain. As a staple of Ethiopian cuisine, it’ll also come with the Ghenet Combination Plate for Two: perfect for a dinner-date, the Combination Plate includes one portion of meat and two portions of vegetables (vegetarians can choose four meatless dishes instead) that are served with and over a layer of injera.

For larger groups, order separate entrées to share. Our favorites include Doro Wett, seasoned chicken in a rich sauce with a surprising punch of spice, or Siga Wett, tender beef cooked in garlic and a myriad of spices. Combined with a hardboiled egg on the side, both dishes can become filling entrées. Vegetarian options include Aterkek Aletcha, a split pea sauce prepared simply with garlic and ginger, and Mesir Wett, flavorful lentils combined with cayenne, turmeric, and paprika. While many of the dishes can be prepared spicy or mild, the spicy options are not overwhelmingly so, even in the spicy Shiro Wett bean dish. However, for those looking for something a bit sweeter, Atkelt Wett, a cabbage, potato, and carrot preparation, provides a refreshing contrast to the heavy spices used in other dishes.

Whether hoping to venture out of the Morningside Heights restaurant comfort zone, impressing a date by eating exotic foods, or enjoying a night out with friends, Ghenet Brooklyn brings the flavor of Ethiopian cuisine within reach to us Columbian Manhattanites.

Ghenet Brooklyn is located on 348 Douglass Street in Brooklyn. For more information, please call (718) 2304475 or visit ghenet.com.

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Settled on the corner of the quaint Park Slope neighborhood, Ghenet Brooklyn is easy to overlook with its plain brown awning, but venture inside to be greeted by a charming interior decor whose restaurant promises an evening of delicious Ethiopian specialties. Walls are adorned with intricate metalwork, and small tables are conducive to intimate gatherings of two to four people.

Ghenet (and Ethiopian cuisine in general) offers great choices for gluten-free or vegetarian eaters, but diners should be warned that eating Ethiopian food is a messy process. That being said, an adventurous crowd will be well rewarded.

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a world of flavor the cultures of cheese

Text and Photos by Amanda Tien

“They all looked at each other cautiously. As they were all rather short of breath by this time, it was the Camembert they could smell. This cheese, with its gamy odour, had overpowered the milder smells of the marolles and the limbourg; its power was remarkable. Every now and then, h ­ owever, a slight whiff, a flute-like note, came from the Parmesan, while the Bries came into play with their soft, musty smell, the gentle sound, so to speak, of a damp tambourine. The Livarot launched into an overwhelming reprise, and the Géromé kept up the symphony with a sustained high note.”

—Émile Zola, The Belly of Paris

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Cheese has been a constant favorite in my life. I grew up as an Army Brat, and I remember loving to try different cheeses every time my family moved, though there was nowhere more exciting than Germany. Every week, droves of farmers appeared in the town center. Carts of daffodils lined the streets, and the smell of freshly baked bread was everywhere.

But I was always most excited by the cheese vendors. Encased in cooled glass were cheeses from all over Europe, some local to our village of Butzbach and some as far away as Greece. Since then, I’ve amassed a collection of cheese books and have become fascinated by the international identity crafted by cheese production.

While I can trace my passion for cheese, the history of the food itself is unclear. The creation of cheese began somewhere before recorded history, and there are claims that it originated in Europe, Central Asia, the Middle East, and the Sahara. There’s the ancient Greek mythological figure Aristaeus who, according to Nonnus’s Dionysiaca, had many rather particular hobbies, including bee-keeping, rain-making, and creating cheese. Apparently, making

cheese was not just for the gods—if students have their Literature Humanities texts easily available, they can check out the Cyclops’s collection of cheese racks and curdled milk in the Odyssey. Egyptian tomb murals make note of cheese-making. The earliest definite evidence of cheese-crafting puts us in Kujway, Poland in 5500 B.C.E. These days, cheese is a popular staple in cuisines on every continent (except Antarctica, but let’s not hold our breath).

While educating myself in the world of cheese, I realized just how much a country’s cheese profile depends on the roots of its foods. Part of the reason that cheese has such a complex flavor profile is because of its several-stop process: cheese is affected, as one would expect, by the quality of the milk. The milk, in turn, changes drastically based on the type of animal it comes from, the food the animal has been eating, where the animal lives, and so on. Additionally, the cheese changes based on where it’s aged and developed—different bacterial presences in caves and storerooms will impact the production of cheese, so much so that wheels created by the same producer at different times of the year (with different bacterial identities present) can change the final taste. Thus, cheese producers have different opinions about how much variance a cheese should have from wheel to wheel. Part of the beauty of a special cheese is how unique its flavors are, but part of the industry standards for quality include consistency and established taste.

As an aspiring cheese connoisseur, I decided to take my queries to the employees of Murray’s Cheese, the largest cheese emporium in New York City.

In the blending of neighborhoods in Manhattan, it’s easy to fall in love with the mix of historic and modern in the Lower West Side. Tucked between neighborhood bookstores and coffee shops are the large windows of Murray’s Cheese. The store oozes warmth, particularly on cold New York nights, the scent of melting cheese wafting down the street. Stepping inside, one is overwhelmed with excitement in the best kind of way—Murray’s sells over 200

kinds of cheese. To learn more about the differences between the American and international cheese scenes, I was put in touch with Leo Rubin, the Marketing and Events Assistant.

We spent an hour on the phone, excitedly sharing anecdotes and perceptions about cheese.

Our conversation quickly honed in on identifying explanations for a major difference I had noticed between the European and American cheese scenes: while Europe has a long, rich history of cheese-making, artisanal cheese production is a relatively recent phenomenon here in America. While there are currently about six-dozen American cheese producers who can qualify for artisan status, just 20 years ago, there were only two or three. Why has it taken such a long time for American cheese-makers to find their footing?

Rubin’s answer was twofold, taking me deep into the differences in governmental policy and culinary culture between Europe and the United States.

GOVERNMENTAL POLICY Government plays a key role in the production of modern-day cheese. Legislation in Europe protects native food producers by keeping price and quality high. Extensive safety laws for the dairy market in America protect consumers, though restrict how and where cheese-makers here can create their product.

Starting in 1992, the European Union began creating a set of rules meant to protect the creators and food products that were native to its lands, resulting in legally protected categories such as the Protected Designation of Origin (P.D.O.). Several countries within the E.U. have their own sub-versions of this legislation, but overall, these laws ensure a fixed market price for origin-specific, traditional foodstuffs.

This protects, for example, traditional feta cheese-makers in Greece from being edged out by non-Mediterranean creators who falsely claim to be authentic. Rubin explains that while these laws are great for protecting long-recognized cheese brands, “there isn’t a lot of experimentation in Europe because if a cheese-maker knows there’s a fixed price and a fixed niche culinarianmagazine.com

I must confess that there is no other flavor in the world that makes me twirl (yes, like a third grade ballerina) the way that cheese does. Every slice, crumble, and nibble that I have ever tasted makes me dance in my seat, and I am happy to report that I feel absolutely no shame in that fact. There is a certain kind of richness parlayed with an exquisite daintiness of flavor in cheese, a taste-tone known as “umami.”

This flavor, one of the five basic tastes, wasn’t truly named and discovered until 1908 by Kikunae Ikeda, a professor at the Tokyo Imperial University. He called this delightful combination of sweet, sour, bitter, and salty, “umami,” a word that was borrowed and is still used in America today. (For all the nerds out there, this flavor is largely a product of the amino acid L-glutamate and ribonucleotides that, when synergized with the receptor cells present on the tongue, create a coating sensation on tastebuds while stimulating cells in the throat.)

Thus, even the way cheese tastes is categorized on the global scale.

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Rubin explained that in America, the infrastructure surrounding the dairy market is locked in and unyielding. Most dairy farms cannot pasteurize their own milk, so the milk is taken to a third party. While these dairy farms are capped at a maximum income because of this relationship, at least the product is created and shipped out every day. The result is that American producers are often loathe to mess with this formula by branching into cheese, which comes with new safety restrictions and processes. Because cheese takes time and perseverance to create, producers have to take a leap of faith and hope that their product will not only pass inspection, but be tasty enough to sell well and make up for the cost of carefully aging it. Rubin explained that in America, the law has a mandatory aging time for all cheeses (whereas in Europe, many soft cheeses don’t have to be aged at all). There are also strict laws about what kinds of buildings can house cheese, what sorts of chemicals can be present, and how frequently producers need to be inspected. It’s easy to see, then, why dairy producers might be hesitant to cross the bridge when the law can be so intimidating.

While the E.U. may protect cheese-makers abroad, American cheese makers don’t have the same built-in support and instead contend with rigorous safety and zoning permits. However, Rubin points out that “in America, you see new things all the time,” and cites as an example the “beautiful, woodsy, floral alpine cheeses coming from Wisconsin farmers who are focusing on growing just the right blend of grass for the cows to eat.”

The location of cheese production does make a huge difference as well, and not just based on economic results. I asked Rubin for his thoughts, and he shared with me a story from Murray’s five caves in which cheeses are aged.

“The caves are like a day spa for cheese. They provide the ultimate aging environment for cheeses: caretakers wash the cheese, orchestrate the right humidity, turn them as necessary, make sure they get the best air possible.

The benefit of aging in a room like this is that there are, of course, natural yeasts and cultures that live amongst us that can get into the caves, but the amazing thing is that each cave is different. They will have different levels of cultures available, and we love our caves because of the differences of creating some-

thing like a Selles-sur-Cher, which is a funky rind goat cheese with blue coloring. You can 100% taste the difference between when we get it totally aged from France versus when we get it very, very young and then age it in our own caves. It’s incredible. It’s amazing how the different places where these cheeses are stored have such a different taste. The jobs in the caves, employees who turn and adjust the cheeses as necessary, are coveted because it affects the tradition and how the cheese is aged and what it will taste like. Using science and tradition, you’re able to have a huge impact on what the cheese becomes.”

CULINARY CULTURE Culinary tradition also establishes a large divide in how cheese is created and sold in Europe versus the United States.

Rubin poses a duality in how the two markets function. “It’s an entirely different perception of cheese because it’s so engrained in their culture,” he says of the European culinary traditions. “You grow up in a town and you know your local dairy and you know the guy making your cheese, and it’s all romanticized and

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market, then why mess with something great?”

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beautiful. And it’s real. For example, the hills in Spain made it very difficult to have anything other than goats for a long time, and so now Manchego (which is practically synonymous to “Spanish cheese”) is reflective of years and years of how cheese was produced, based on the land around them and what was available.

In America, though, we don’t have that. There’s so much diversity in terrain and so many combinations based on years of immigration, that while we don’t have age-old traditions, we do have people who aren’t afraid to try new things and combine flavors together in totally different ways.”

It’s partially because of this disjunction in how the American people perceive cheese by-andlarge that there is a challenge for small, independent producers. Rubin says that one of his favorite parts of the job is educating customers about cheese, but it’s also the biggest struggle. “American customers have a harder time understanding why they should pay so much for something, why a little wheel of goat cheese might be more expensive than a block of Kraft cheese. But in Europe, they recognize the effect that cheese has in their communities and they don’t mind spending that money.”

To explain his point, he suggests taking a look at the ubiquitous Parmesan cheese that originally hailed from Parma, Italy as having a tremendous effect on the country’s international presence both culturally and economically.

Additionally, the flavor profile of the cheese influences other products: the rinds are sold to flavor Parma ham and the whey is saved to be incorporated in other food processes.

Rubin, like many others, is excited about the future of cheese-making in America. It’s a growing market, and cheese festivals have popped up all over the country. New York, as it usually does, has helped spur artisan cheese into a focal point in the national dialogue. On perhaps a more serious note, it’s sellers like Murray’s and their farms with whom they have long-standing relationships that have a direct impact on American legislation. The more successful, and therefore more vocal, that these groups are, the more likely it is that state and federal governments will increase their fiscal and legislative support and perhaps create their own version of the E.U.’s protection. The organic, grassroots movement has been incredibly beneficial to the cheese industry in America as they create products that are easily identifiable as “local.” The conversation has evolved over the last 20 years, and it will keep maturing and changing as America develops its own dedication to the crafting of its cheese identity.

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cheese pairings

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Mario Juan, an employee at Murray’s who sported an awesome “Straight Outta Comté” shirt, put together some fresh pairings that should encourage you to stray beyond the familiar Brie with red wine (though that’s certainly delicious, too).

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adventurous

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Try some of Murray’s specialty, cave-aged Bayley ­Hazen Blue by Jasper Hill, a raw, farmhouse milk blue that ­provides a dry, yet paste-like texture perfect for ­spreading on top of Potter’s Crackers’ Caramelized ­Onion Crisps.

The blue’s harmonized undertones of chocolate, ­hazelnut, and licorice go well with a bottle of Hitachimo Sweet Stout. This beer is produced with lactic acid, the same chemicals that drive forth cheese, and the flavors will spark the taste buds of the culinary Indiana Jones.

CLASSIC­

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Cheese lovers who love a good, hard cheese will be hard-pressed to find anything more ­delightful than the Malvarosa, a Spanish Manchego-like cheese whose buttery texture complements notes of ­ butterscotch. This succulent cheese is carefully aged for a m ­ inimum of three months, so class it up with a ­refreshing can of Westbrook Brewing Co.’s White Thai beer that’s blended with fresh lemongrass, ­ginger root, and ­Sorachi Ace hops. Take a sip, spread the ­Malvarosa on a cracker with some honey created

by French Canadian sea-faring bees from a beautiful jar of Classe Ouvriere: Miel Maritime Seashore Honey.

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sassy This Loire Valley goat cheese, Valençay, comes in a pillowy pyramid shape, and is snarkily named after the town where, according to legend, an embittered Napoleon chopped off the top of a cheese pyramid after a failed conquest to Egypt. Its herby, sharp flavors pair excellently with a fine dose of Anarchy in a Jar’s Fig and Onion Jam and a tall glass of Belgian farmhouse ale such as Saison Dupont.

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informative guide:

Baguette Finder

Walk into any boulangerie on any street corner in Paris, and you’ll find bundles of freshly baked baguettes ­arranged behind the store counter. This long, thin loaf with a crisp crust and soft center has been a French ­staple since the reign of Louis XIV. French law even requires that they be made without preservatives, ­ensuring that loaves are made with a pure mixture of flour, water, yeast, and salt.

Baguettes have become ­somewhat ubiquitous even in American bakeries, so much so that it can be difficult to tell which ones are authentic. For a little taste of Paris and an authentic French culinary experience, hit up these New York baking havens.

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Text by Rebecca Pottash Photos by Minh Tam Nguyen

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Bouchon Bakery

Sullivan Street Bakery

France has come to New York, Beverly Hills, Las Vegas, and Yountville via the renowned Bouchon Bakery, a traditional boulangerie boasting a wide array of breads, pastries, quiches, macarons, and more. Soft and supple, their baguette’s thin crust is easy to tear into, which is good, because once you’ve started eating, you won’t want to stop. Though the crust is less flaky than others, the interior is light, pillowy, and irresistibly sweet.

The thin, yet crunchy crust crumbles the moment you break open Sullivan Street Bakery’s baguette, leaving your fingers covered in flour and bits of the perfectly charred underbelly of the loaf. The inside is light and porous, ideal for eating with mild cheese or standalone snacking. It peels apart into thin, croissant-like layers, and feels authentically French.

Bouchon Bakery Several locations in N.Y.C. bouchonbakery.com

Sullivan Street Bakery Several locations in N.Y.C. sullivanstreetbakery.com

Silver Moon Bakery

Amy’s Bread

Silver Moon Bakery’s regular, sourdough, and rustic baguettes come in full and demi sizes. This bread is sturdier and heartier than more traditional varieties, and feels a bit like a classier version of a dinner roll.

The soft crust stays intact, even as you bite into the smooth, thick dough that would make any sandwich pop.

Silver Moon Bakery 2740 Broadway (212) 866-4717 silvermoonbakery.com

True to its name, Amy’s Bread specializes in hand-crafted, fresh, traditional breads of every variety. The dough of an Amy’s baguette is darker than what can be found at other bakeries, giving these baguettes a more rustic feel, as does their dense yet supple crust. Amy’s, which bakes in three popular N.Y.C. locations, uses local and sustainable ingredients in all their baked goods. They strive for authenticity in their methods and products, and the result is delectable.

Amy’s Bread Several locations in N.Y.C. amysbread.com

Levain Levain Bakery might be best known for their to-die-for cookies, but they’re no amateurs when it comes to bread, either. Not ready for a whole baguette? Levain bakery offers small, ball-shaped loaves known as “boules” that are perfect for a snack on the go and made with the same dough as baguettes. The bakery serves these rolls fresh and ready to eat, for just for $1. Just a little bit of pressure is required to break through the hard yet supple crust and into its hearty center. The roll is a bit darker than the other, longer baguettes, and has a more earthy flavor.

Levain Bakery Several Locations in N.Y.C. levainbakery.com

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Polish Pierogi: a traditional

family recipe

text and photo by Savannah Kuper When I think of of my nana making her grandmother’s Polish pierogi, I picture her standing for hours in front of a ­wooden table dusted with flour, kneading and rolling dough. Traditionally stuffed with potato, horseradish, meat, or even fruit, these doughy, halfmoon pockets are believed to have originated in Central or Eastern Europe, and are ­actually easier to make than my nana would make it seem. Feel free to explore with different flavors while preparing the filling.

ingredients 5 pounds red potatoes, peeled and cubed 8 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded 1 teaspoon salt plus more for potatoes Pepper 3 cups flour 1 egg ¼ pound cream cheese ½ cup lukewarm water, divided 1 tablespoon butter, melted 1 tablespoon garlic, minced

method Bring a large, covered pot of potatoes submerged in water to a boil. Once boiling, reduce to a simmer and cook for approximately 20 to 25 minutes, or until a fork can ­easily be inserted into the flesh of the potatoes. Drain the water and mash the ­potatoes until smooth using a hand masher or electric mixer. Mix in the shredded cheese and add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside to cool.

Holding one of the dough circles in the palm of your hand, dampen the rim with some water using the tip of your index finger. Place 1 tablespoon of the potato-cheese filling into the center, fold the dough into a half moon, and tightly pinch the edges together to seal the filling.

Bring a large pot of water to a simmer. Slide the pierogi into the pot one at a time and cook for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the pierogi float to the surface. While the pierogi are cooking, heat the butter and garlic in a skillet. Transfer the cooked pierogi into the skillet using a slotted spoon and sauté until both sides are golden.

Serve hot with caramelized onions, spicy horseradish, and/or sour cream.

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In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, egg, cream cheese, and 1 teaspoon of salt with a wooden spoon until a coarse and pebble-like dough begins to form. Add a ¼ cup of the water and stir until the dough begins to stick together. Add the remaining ¼ of water and knead the dough into a ball. If your hands stick to the dough, dust them heavily with flour. Roll out the dough on parchment paper or a floured surface until it is about an ⅛ of an inch thick. While rolling out, carefully flip over the dough and sprinkle more flour over the surface to prevent sticking. Using a cookiecutter (or the rim of a glass), cut circles out of the dough and set them aside on a lightly floured baking sheet.

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y l l a c i h t E g n i t a E

the vegan’s dilemma

Text and Photo by Rebecca Deczynski Art by Lacey Minot 25

Although quinoa has been domesticated and harvested for thousands of years, dating back to the Incan Empire, it was only in recent years that the simple grain exploded in popularity, becoming a fundamental ingredient in trendy restaurants and home kitchens alike. The increasing demand for this superfood has become the subject of growing concern, yet for different reasons than many would think.

As quinoa becomes a more valued crop, it increases in price. This generates worries that Bolivian farmers who produce the majority of the world’s quinoa crop will no longer be able to afford eating their own harvest. Yet experts digress. Quinoa specialist from the U.S. importer Andean Naturals, Sergio Nuñez de Arco, explains to VegNews magazine, “Bolivians in general do

not eat much quinoa, and it’s been that way for 500 years.” Rather, the issue stems from the physical production of the grain, as farmers must till their land nonstop to meet the increasing demand, thus increasing erosion and pest invasion.

Quinoa isn’t the only vegan-friendly

more pesticides on their produce and decrease the amount of genetic diversity within the crop, which could cause production issues in the future. Think of it as plant inbreeding.

These crops as a whole also contribute to worldwide deforestation as virgin land is desecrated for bulk production farms— not to mention the transportation of these crops that are most widely produced in South America and Asia and sold in the U.S. With a global taste, it seems, comes a global cost. So can vegans and people who consume these meat-free alternatives really consider themselves on the more ethical side of the equation?

protein that’s getting the side eye.

Tofu is a more mainstream food made from soymilk that is pressed into soft white blocks. The problem here is that food giant and Genetically Modified Organism (G.M.O)-proponent Monsanto controls nearly 90% of the world’s soybean production. While the jury is still out on the safety of genetically modified foods as a whole, studies performed on animals have linked G.M.O soy products to such issues as sterility and birth defects. From an environmental perspective, G.M.Os also force farmers to use

It depends. By purchasing non-G.M.O, organic soy products and fair trade quinoa, consumers can ensure that small farmers receive a profit, and the overall use of pesticides and practice of major deforestation is diminished.

When shopping for groceries, local, in-season produce have the lowest impact on transportation pollution and soil exhaustion. Above all, it’s essential to realize that just because a diet may lack meat or dairy doesn’t mean it has no impact on the fragile planet. There may be no perfect formula for eating ethically, but knowing the impact of food choices is the first step toward improving the system.

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Individuals who ascribe to the “vegan” label tend to see themselves as ethical people—and I speak from personal experience. With meat production topping the charts as the number one cause for global warming and production fueling the veal industry, the choice to avoid animal products comes with an increased sense of morality and philanthropy. When asked the source of their protein, vegans are happy to point to fiber-filled quinoa and irondense tofu. But despite the lack of deaths involved in cultivating these plant-based staples, the ethicality surrounding their production and distribution remains questionable—a quandary that must be overcome for consumers to truly eat ethically.

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Creative Concoctions at Haru Sushi on the Upper West Side Text and Photos by Amanda Tien

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Haru Sushi began as a neighborhood sushi joint on the Upper West Side in 1996. Growing with the boom in sushi’s international ­popularity over the last decade, Haru has expanded all over the city with ­locations ­throughout Manhattan, each showing off unique interiors and fresh ­flavors. Its birth place on Amsterdam Avenue is an excellent choice for students. Take advantage of a sunny day and enjoy the ­luxurious walk from campus. Delight in the menu’s varied range of dishes, ­whether they be the popular Chilean sea bass or the plethora of sushi and sashimi.

It’s these special rolls that highlight the restaurant’s deft skill with ­contrasting different textures and flavors. Adventurous eaters should try the Gramcery Park Roll, which is a crunchy, spicy escolar and ­jalepeños roll wrapped in tuna, yellowtail, and salmon, and topped with lemon, cilantro, tobiko, and yuzu miso sauce. Those looking for more ­familiar flavors but who still want a kick should try the Phoenix Roll made with spicy tuna, shrimp tempura, and cucumber. For some ­delicious raw fish, go straight for the pieces of sashimi—ask for the toro, the best cut of fish available. After you’ve enjoyed your sushi lunch, walk off that wonderful too-full feeling by visiting nearby Central Park, A ­ merican Museum of Natural History, or the New York Historical Society.

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Original art for Culinarian by Allison Scott

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easy enchiladas INGREDIENTS Breast meat from 1 rotisserie chicken, shredded 2 cups shredded Mexican blend cheese, divided Approximately 2 cups mild red enchilada sauce, divided 1 medium tomato, seeded and diced ½ cup canned black beans, rinsed and drained ½ cup canned corn kernels, rinsed and drained ½ cup white onion, finely chopped ½ teaspoon onion powder ½ teaspoon oregano ½ teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon chili powder 8 (6-inch) corn or white tortillas

Text by Megan Dinnerstein Photos by Megan Dinnerstein and Aida Cheng Throwing a dinner party in a dorm can be difficult due to lack of space, time, and necessary kitchen tools, yet these hearty enchiladas require minimal effort or ­cooking ­utensils. Although made in a non-traditional way, they are a great introduction to the flavors of Mexican cooking.

METHOD Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, combine the breast meat, 1 cup of cheese, ½ cup of ­enchilada sauce, beans, corn, tomato, onion powder, oregano, cumin, and chili powder, making sure that all ingredients are covered in sauce.

Spread 1 cup of red enchilada sauce onto a 9 by 12-inch baking pan, ­making sure it is entirely covered. Wrap the tortillas in a damp paper towel and ­microwave for 15 to 30 seconds, or until they become soft and flexible. Distribute ­approximately 2 tablespoons of filling onto the center of a tortilla in a vertical line. Wrap the tortilla around the filling to form a cigar-shaped tube and place it seam-side down in the pan. Repeat with remaining tortillas and filling.­ ­Cover the stuffed tortillas with the remaining enchilada sauce and cheese.

Bake for approximately 25 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and bubbly.

Serve immediately.

For larger groups of people, simply double the recipe and use a bigger pan. Enchiladas can be stored cooked in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours and reheated in the oven or ­microwave.)

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campus food truck tour

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Text and Photos

by Bethany Wong

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}

Sick of the same old pizza and sandwiches from campus ­eateries, but too busy to venture into a restaurant for a sit-down meal? Food trucks around campus serve up various cuisines for quick, convenient, and affordable meals to enjoy while running to class. Read on to find your next delicious to-go meal that doesn’t come encumbered in a bulky plastic takeout box.

Milk Truck

You won’t find any Kraft American cheese slices in Milk Truck’s artisanal versions of the traditional, grade school, grilled cheese classic. Breads are sourced from various bakeries around the city and are cut by hand with a handmade bread miter (a notched wooden board that creates exact slice widths), and cheeses are anything but ordinary. A standout sandwich is the Three Cheese Grilled Cheese: caramelized Granny Smith apple slices are wedged between aged gruyère, aged New York State cheddar, and Wisconsin blue cheese and grilled between two slices of rosemary pullman bread from Blue Ribbon

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Bakery. Each bite of the Three Cheese is a manifestation of Milk Truck’s successful balance of taste and texture from opposite ends of the sensory spectrum, from the sweetness of the caramel to the saltiness of the bread crusts, to the crunch of fragrant sandwich bread and the gooeyness of the melted cheeses.

Milk Truck is located on Amsterdam Avenue between 116th and 118th Streets. For more information and to check the location schedule, please call (646) 504-6455 or visit milktrucknyc.com.

swami dosa

Visit Swami Dosa for a deviation from the typical latenight halal cart run. Dosas are a South Asian crêpe made from a soaked rice and lentils batter. You’ll want to visit Swami Dosa with a friend (or an empty stomach), as its kind owner serves heaping portions that are large enough to share. The tender chicken and soft chickpea filling in the chicken dosa contrast well with the crisp dosa exterior. Sweet onion adds a touch of saccharine to the chicken filling while the curried chickpeas blend in

and prevent the filling from becoming cloyingly sweet.

Sambar, a thin and tangy tomato onion soup used as a dipping sauce, adds a dimension of sourness. For a snack, try the samosas, filled with mashed potatoes, green peas, and flavorful spices.

Swami Dosa is located on Broadway between 116th and 117th Streets. For more information and to check the location schedule, please call (347) 965-3353.

Uncle Luoyang

Uncle Luoyang is located on Broadway between 116th and 117th Streets. For more information and to check the location schedule, please call (646) 288-7763.

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This truck consistently has the longest lines on campus, and not without reason: Uncle Luoyang serves delicious on-the-go food for one of the best deals in the area. Uncle Luoyang’s $3 (and substantial) pork burger is not a burger in the traditional American sense, but is made instead with with a solid, dense bun similar to an English muffin. The bun is a perfect backdrop for the hearty, smoked pork that is occasionally accented by small, tender chunks of fat.

For those looking for a larger meal, this truck also sells cartons of steamed pork and chive dumplings.

Dumpling fillings are well-seasoned and slightly sweet, while the exterior is moderately thick with a slight elastic chew. In short, Uncle Luong is a great alternative to questionable stir fry from the dining halls.

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FLAVORS OF THE

great southern land

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Text and Photos by Amelia Moulis

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I

I’m not sure how “put another shrimp on the barbie” became such well-coined phrase. First, Australians eat prawns. Second, you don’t barbecue prawns.

In moving to New York for a year to study abroad, I hadn’t expected to find any vast culinary differences between American food and the food of my home, Australia. But just as I found that many of my American friends had no idea what Australian food is—for one, it’s not barbecued shrimp—I too harbored misconceptions as to what American food entails. Upon boarding a plane to America with my life packed into two gigantic bags, I thought the U.S. would be the land of fast food, burgers, fries, and larger serving sizes. These are the things you come to expect as an outsider, observing America through Hollywood blockbusters and the lyrics of billboard hits. And in keeping with my expectations, my first meal in New York was at a fast food joint: Chipotle.

One year after popping my Chipotle cherry, I was writing restaurant reviews for a local city guide, addicted to cronuts and dreaming of Bouley. I relished the New York foodscape, and felt I’d really come to understand what American food was all about. Yet something was still missing, something

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that was temporarily soothed when a care package arrived from home featuring double-coated Tim Tams, a tin of Milo, and a jar of Vegemite.

My housemates were given rare chances to try these comfort treats (rare because I was horrible at sharing). Half a Tim Tam was deemed unimpressive. A teaspoon of Milo was considered the same as grainy Ovaltine. The Vegemite was spat into the bin by all except one Norwegian friend. I retained my devotion to my most beloved foods, yet I knew there was so much more to Australian food than the sum of its big brands, just like American cuisine is so much more than its fast food chains and oversized servings.

I’ve been back home for several months now, and have happily indulged in every item of food I craved whilst away in New York. But still the question has nagged at me: what is Australian cuisine? What makes it any different from other countries’ cuisines? Sixty percent of tourists visiting Australia rank the quality of our food second only behind France, ahead of Japan and Italy. Yet everyone knows that France has incredible pastries and baguettes, Italy has the original pizza and pasta, and Japan is home to beautifully meticulous sushi and sashimi. What foods are definitively Australian?

The geographic isolation of Australia has without a doubt shaped our food culture, and particularly in terms of the produce that’s available. Importing isn’t all that easy when you live on a huge island surrounded by a constellation of smaller islands, and many Australians prefer to keep it local, regardless.

The fresh produce sections of the supermarket are overflowing with seasonal, organic, ripe, natural fruits and vegetables. Our apples aren’t a glossy Snow White red. Instead they’re slightly misshapen, streaked with different hues of greens, pinks, and reds. Our tomatoes aren’t giant, watery beasts. Instead they’re smaller, less bulbous, and packed with flavor. We have kiwi and passion fruits, bananas and pineapples. I can smell a good mango from meters away, with the nostalgic scent of childhood afternoons spent sitting in the sun sucking the flesh from the stone, sticky mango nectar running down young arms. When in season, stone fruits (peaches, nectarines, and apricots) are irresistible, especially when baked with a vanilla bean and a sprinkling of cane sugar, so they bubble and melt in their viscous juices. Supermarkets quote that 96% or more of their fruits and vegetables are grown on Australian farms, and they promise no more than a two-day turnaround between getting picked from the tree and picked off the shelf.

The meat industry is much the same, whereby almost all meat sold is produced in Australia.

There are popular commercials claiming that it’s “un-Australian” not to eat lamb, and the country is the world’s third largest exporter of beef, yet 70% of beef produced is never exported. There are strict regulations to keep hormones and supplements away from cattle, and the result is slowcooked lamb shoulder that tumbles from the bone, and beefsteaks with thick, pink centers. I missed the purity, the simplicity, and the caliber of Australian produce and meats.

Despite the Australian isolation, our country is proud of its multicultural heritage. Since the Americans refused to take any more British convicts back in 1783 and Australia became the chosen destination for all kinds of rebels and rogues, the Great Southern Land has become a melting

pot of ethnicity where every culture is equally a part of the national identity. Apart from the British, there was an influx of Chinese during the 1850s Gold Rush, as well as others from every other Asian neighbor. These newcomers established culinary hubs that preserved the techniques and traditions of their ancestors, succeeded by a generation that also embraced the European influences already present. This created a spectrum of diverse Asian cuisine, both traditional and contemporary: Vietnamese street food cafes, traditional Chinese institutions, Japanese tepanyaki houses and sushi specialists, beacons of modern Thai, innovative Indian curry houses and Korean barbecues, just to name a few. Serving another country’s cuisine at any of these places would be a sin. Contemporary Thai favorite Longrain serves chunks of pork hock, soft and tender on the inside, but crunchy and caramelized on the outside. Chinese-Australian Billy Kwong plates the perfect, crispy-skin duck with Australian native quandongs in lieu of the Chinese plums.

The availability of, and familiarity with, the exotic ingredients of the Orient have filtered through to our notion of national cuisine, to the point where “Australian” dishes at Sydney’s most recent Good Food Month (a month-long celebration of all things edible) included Korean ssamjang on Blackmore wagyu, and chili sesame dressing doused over bar cod. Salt and pepper squid can be found at any decent fish and chippery, as well as in almost every pub around the country—it seems just as much Australian as it is Asian. The cuisines have fed into one another for over 160 years, guiding and colliding with each other’s development to the point where Asian-born Adam Liaw, 2010 winner of MasterChef Australia, a show with a cult following, recently claimed that Australia has the best Asian food in the world. It’s hard to disagree when one of the first meals I went for once back on home soil was caramelized pork hock piece-of-heaven from Longrain.

Tradition Although our Asian influences have guided Australian cuisine away from the traditional clichés, the staple Aussie food, or “tucker,” still remains.

Country towns with award-winning bakeries

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Isolation and Innovation

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have their meat pies, sausage rolls, and lamingtons lined up along the counter. The technically-New-Zealand-but-we’ll-claim-it-anyway pavlova comes smothered in freshly-whipped cream, a splattering of passion fruit seeds and rows of strawberries on top. To this very day, my great-grandmother demands a second helping every time. Our fishing zone remains the third -largest in the world, and you can almost taste the ice-cold water of Tasmania in a freshly shucked oyster. Fairy bread (hundreds and thousands, a type of sprinkles, on buttered bread) is a staple at every child’s party. We put beetroot on our burgers and pineapple on our pizzas. ANZAC biscuits are still based on the recipe that wives used in World War I to send treats to their soldiers in the trenches. And yes, we eat kangaroos.

From an outsider’s point of view, it may seem odd that we eat our national icon. But kangaroos are everywhere here, and their meat is lean and tasty. Marinate it in some rosemary and balsamic, throw it on the barbecue, and serve it with some mayo, rocket (arugula), and caramelized onions in a bun, and you have a pretty mean kangaroo steak sandwich.

Kangaroo steaks are one of the many things Australians like to barbecue, shrimp notwithstanding. We barbecue all kinds of steaks, skewered

meats, and, of course, the humble sausage. Sausage sandwiches involve just one slice of bread wrapped around the sausage and topped with onions and tomato sauce, an unbeatable combination. It’s a mighty summer tradition for Aussie blokes to “banter over the barbie” on a sunny Sunday, beers in hand, cricket on TV, kids screaming in the pool, while the girls gossip and maybe put some salads together inside. The barbecue represents an opportunity to relax, to enjoy the company of friends or family, and to soak up the sun. On Christmas day, when the sky stretches overhead in crystal blue and the heat of summer beats down on the backyard, my most treasured memories are of backyard barbecue feasts followed by races down to the beach and into the waves with my cousins. We embrace this cliché, I embrace this cliché, and I missed the sense of belonging that this food culture engenders.

Granted, there exist many other aspects of Australian food. For instance, our coffee tradition is fearless and creates ultimate coffee snobs such as myself, and our winemaking regions churn out bold, rich wines from east coast to west coast. But overall, Australian food is textured, it ripples with nuance, and I’m proud to have been brought up in a community with so many dimensions of flavor and influence.

“Put Another Shrimp on the Barbie!”

...and other things to never say in Australia

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unacceptable phrases

conditions of use: in the city

conditions of use: in the outback

acceptable alternative

“Put another shrimp on the barbie!”

Never, not ever.

Don’t even think about it.

“Chuck another snag on the barbie!”

“Can I have some boxed wine please?”

If you’re trying to be polite and refined.

Who even are you?

“Chuck us the goon sack.”

“Vegemite is disgusting.”

Not unless you have a deathwish.

See “City.”

“I demand more Vegemite.”

“What’s Milo?”

Get yourself to the supermarket A.S.A.P.

It may take longer, but track down a supermarket.

“Milo is simply delicious.”

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review

Afternoon Tea IN A JAPANESE GARDEN

Text and Photo by Matthew Tsim

What’s the strangest place to set up a tearoom in the city? Chef Tomoko Kato answers with Cha-An, a tearoom located on the second floor of an East Village building above a riotous nightclub. The eccentric location works to Cha-An’s advantage during the day, however, ­making it one of the East Village’s best kept secrets. As the causal wanderer is sure to miss the unexpected flight of stairs leading up to the entrance, Cha-An’s atmosphere is serene and detached from the hustle and bustle of everyday city life, in spite of the occasionally audible electronic dance music emanating from downstairs.

The ambience is further enhanced by the decor—bamboo shoots adorn the walls and dark, wooden tea tables recreate the feel of a traditional Japanese garden.

The tea selection at Cha-An is extensive, ranging from the classic Earl Grey to more unusual variations of Japanese tea. A popular choice is the Matcha tea for which green tea leaves are ground into a fine powder before getting dissolved into boiling water according to Japanese tradition. Another good choice is the lavender and mint tea, which is earthy and rich in flavor.

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The dessert menu is decidedly less traditional than the tea service. Many of the desserts, such as the Black Sesame Crème Brûlée, are French in origin but served with a Japanese twist. This crème brûlée is as much of a play on texture as it is on culture—the black sesame ice cream on top is soft and creamy, while the crème brûlée below is hard and crunchy. Stirring the ice cream and crème brûlée together creates a flavorful blend of sweet and nutty. Other desserts that fuse French and Japanese flavors include the Green Tea Truffle or Sweet Potato Apple Cake.

Service at Cha-An is relaxed and pleasant. The tearoom can easily function as a romantic venue for a date or as a place to catch up with friends. Individual pots of tea and desserts might seem pricey relative to serving sizes, so look for the afternoon tea set.

At $18 per person, it is one of the cheapest deals in the city. Also remember to visit the A.T.M. before visiting Cha-An as it is cash only.

Cha-An is located on 230 East 9th Street, Second Floor. For more information, please call (212) 228-8030 or visit chaanteahouse.com.

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recipe

Bun Thit Nuong Vietnamese Rice Noodle Salad with Grilled Lemongrass Pork and Chili-Lime Sauce

Text by Brennon Mendez | Photos by Sarah Berlinger

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This popular dish is ubiquitous on a Vietnamese menu but is ­surprisingly easy to prepare at home. Refreshingly light yet ­satisfying, this authentic salad is ideal for casual entertaining.

Method

Grilled Lemongrass Pork

Grilled Lemongrass Pork

4 green onions, thinly sliced 2 shallots, minced ¼ cup garlic, minced ¼ cup lemongrass, minced ¼ cup cilantro, chopped 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons Vietnamese-style fish sauce (nuoc mam cham) 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 ½ pounds pork shoulder, sliced into ¼-inch strips

In a large bowl, mix together the green onions, shallots, garlic, lemongrass, cilantro, sugar, fish sauce, soy sauce, and pepper until the sugar is completely dissolved. Add the pork shoulder and fully coat each strip with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.

Chili-Lime Sauce ½ cup sugar ¼ cup Vietnamese-style fish sauce (nuoc mam cham) ¼ cup lukewarm water ½ cup freshly squeezed lime juice 1 teaspoon chili paste

Assembly 1 pound rice vermicelli noodles, cooked al dente 1 head green leaf lettuce, roughly chopped 2 cups bean sprouts 1 large carrot, peeled and julienned 1 large cucumber, peeled and julienned 1 bunch cilantro, minced ½ cup mint, cut into a chiffonade ½ cup peanuts, crushed ½ cup green onions, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted

Chili-Lime Sauce While the pork is marinating, gently whisk together the sugar, fish sauce, and water in a medium saucepan over low-medium heat. Bring to a simmer, and after 2 to 3 minutes, remove from the heat and whisk in the lime juice and chili paste until smooth. Refrigerate until lightly chilled.

Once the pork has finished marinating, sear the pork over medium-high heat for 1 to 2 minutes, or until evenly caramelized and slightly charred at the edges, using either an outdoor grill or a grill pan. Flip and sear for another 1 to 2 minutes, or until the pork is cooked through.

Assembly Place equal amounts of the cooked noodles in 4 to 6 large serving bowls. Arrange the lettuce, bean sprouts, carrots, cucumber, cilantro, and mint over the noodles and top with the still-hot, grilled pork. Sprinkle the peanuts, green onions, and sesame seeds over the top of the pork. Drizzle the chili-lime sauce over the salad.

Serve immediately with a pitcher of iced jasmine tea to refresh and cleanse the palate.

The dish can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Store the sauce in a separate container. Enjoy leftover pork with a fresh baguette as a delicious bahn mi sandwich.

The pork can also be substituted with sliced chicken breast.

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Ingredients

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review

The

Leopard des Artistes at

Text and Photos by Amanda Tien

This über-classy, delightfully chic restaurant near Lincoln Center is the ideal place to take your parents, throw a swanky graduation party, or have an upscale dinner date. The food is ­impeccable, the service divine, and well-placed candles foster a glowing ambiance. In short, look no further than The Leopard at des Artistes, a historic landmark in New York perfect for celebratory dinners and after-opera desserts.

The restaurant has a long history, and it began when dancers, musicians, and artists opted to live in the Hotel des Artistes. The small apartments had no kitchens, however, so hotel dwellers would buy groceries and drop them off for the in-house chef to cook for the entire building from the first floor. Eventually, the business model became apparent, and the Cafe des ­Artistes opened under the culinary artistry of George Lang who had escaped Hungary in the wartorn twentieth century. Under his operation, the restaurant became legendary for decades before suffering during the economic crisis of 2009.

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Since its opening, the restaurant was refurbished, and paintings were cleaned after years of indoor smoking damaged the original works. The walls are filled with ­beautiful (and quite naked) women frolicking. The current owner, Gianfranco Sorrentino, spoke with love of his restaurant and shared his favorite anecdote concerning the ­establishment’s recent renovation: “A woman came in, quite old—she could barely walk. Yet she insisted on walking to this far table, near you. She had come for her 90th birthday. Her son pulled me aside and explained, ‘She wanted to sit near this painting, see, because she was one of the models.’” Enjoy this romantic decor, and if you’re curious, she’s the one reading on the eastern wall.

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Left: Seared scallops, served with sweet garlic sauce and topped with crisp parsnips and zucchini.

Right: Mural series of Fantasy Scenes with Naked Beauties painted by Howard Chandler Christy in the 1920s.

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Left: Chef Fausto Ferraresi came out to chat and talk us through the polenta (see next page).

Right: Fried artichoke starter with fresh greens—a unique sensory experience of crunchy and buttery textures

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Soft Polenta with Porcini Mushrooms Recipe courtesy of Fausto Ferraresi This porcini polenta is a gift to your palete. The smooth creaminess of the polenta sets the stage for the star tanginess of sautéed porcinis. The restaurant P.R. director, Margot Dempsey, retrieved the recipe to share with Culinarian. Brace yourselves.

Polenta

Sautéed Mushrooms

• 2 cups polenta flour • 1 pint veal stock • ½ cup heavy cream • Salt • ½ cup Parmigiano Reggiano, grated • 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 1 tablespoon olive oil • 3 small porcini mushrooms, cut into ¼-inch slices • 1 clove garlic, peeled and cracked with the backside of a knife blade • 1 stem thyme • Salt and pepper • ¼ cup white wine • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter • 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped

Method Polenta

In a large pot over high heat, bring the veal stock, heavy cream, and a generous pinch of salt to a boil.

Whisk in the polenta flour, lower the heat, and let simmer for 40 minutes, gently whisking the mixture every 10 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in the Parmesan and olive oil. Set aside.

Sautéed Mushrooms In a large pan, heat the olive oil over high heat. Add the mushrooms and garlic glove and sauté until golden, about 1 minute. Add the thyme stem, ­season

with salt and pepper, and cook for another minute.

Pour in the wine, deglaze by scraping the bottom of the pan, and allow the liquid to reduce and thicken.

Remove from heat, discard the thyme stem, and stir in the butter and parsley.

Serve immediately: distribute the polenta in bowls and arrange the mushrooms with their sauce over the top.

The polenta and mushrooms can be refrigerated in separate containers and reheated for up to 3 days.

“This is the kind of meal you remember.”

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While eating this dish, so delectable and ­soothing that it had the quality of a savory pudding, my ­mother turned to me and said,

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Opposite: Homemade pappardelle with wild boar ragout marinated in Aglianico di Taurasi.

Clockwise from top left: Potato-crusted fresh codfish in light tomato lobster sauce with artichokes and olives; homemade 足bucatini with sardines, wild fennel, pine nuts, and raisins; mascarpone panna cotta with seasonal citrus fruit on freshly baked cookie and candied citrus zest. .

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the

Authentic Indian table

Text by Zoe Baker-Peng | Photos by Martin Ong

Finding an Indian restaurant in New York City is pretty easy, but discovering authentic cuisine at a reasonable price is harder. Swagat fulfills that quest with a wide array of traditional dishes, while the small portions and cozy environment encourage diners to eat family-style in the classic, Indian manner. The menu includes a multitude of different meat dishes in addition to plenty of options for vegetarians.

Be sure to begin with the sweet Lassi, a refreshing yogurt drink, which soothes and neutralizes the palate in preparation for the subtle flavors of aromatic spices and fresh herbs to come. While appetizers might look tempting, the real treats lie within the curries. Chicken Tikka Masala is a well-known Indian favorite, and while Swagat’s version strays slightly towards a tomato-heavy flavor, the chicken is succulent and complemented by a mild and creamy sauce.

Try the Chicken Shahi Korma for an exotic blend of saffron, almond, and cashews, or sample the creamy Lamb Saagwala, which pairs tender meat with a smooth spinach sauce. The Paneer Makhani, cubes of Indian cheese in a rich tomato-cream sauce, is somewhat bland, but the Aloo Gobi, a potato and cauliflower dish, and the Saag Paneer, Indian cheese in a spinach sauce, serve as wonderful accompaniments to a meat dish. Accompany the meal with a selection of delectable, soft, springy naan breads, such as the spinach naan: mild cheese melts in your mouth while spinach adds both color and a subtle flavor variation in this otherwise simple bread.

If by chance you still have room for dessert, try the popular Gulab Jamun, cheese and milk balls soaked in warm sweet syrup. The soft dough is light, and as you bite in, it breaks softly apart to release hints of infused rose water.

Tables at Swagat are tightly packed together, so it’s worth making a reservation for weekends.

culinarianmagazine.com

Swagat is located on 411 Amsterdam Avenue and on 1154 1st Avenue. For more information, please call (212) 3621400 or (212) 355-4600 or visit swagatny.com.

Original artwork for Culinarian by Lian Plass

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