Craft Food Artisan - Spring

Cover:

President’s Welcome

Welcome to the second, spring 23, edition of Cra Food Artisan, the magazine from the Culinary Association of Wales. We’re barely in April as I write this, but the CAW has already had a remarkable year.

e Welsh International Culinary Championships (covered on page 11) was a great success, and yielded a new champion, Matthew Smith, who proves the old adage if at rst you don’t succeed, try, try and try again, having won at his h attempt. As if it to prove the point that persistence pays o , a er previous bids, Worldchefs Congress, have recently announced that Wales would be the host nation in 2026. In the nal run-o , the awarding panel were swayed by our theme of Pasture, Passion, Plate, the level of commitment from all the organisations behind the bid, the CAW, ICC Wales and Welsh Government, and, ultimately, the amazing quality of food and drink that exists within our border, from our elds and waterways through to the passionate artisans and producers that get it to our plates. We look at this momentous achievement and what it means on p6. Between now and the 2026 Congress, we have the Culinary Olympics in 2024, which we’ll be featuring heavily in the next issue. For now, I’d like to invite any chefs, established or up and coming, who would like the opportunity to compete for their country, to get in touch.

News

It’s been a busy start to 2023 at CAW

Brød

It’s especially satisfying that all this success is happening now, in our 30th anniversary year. It’s been a roller coaster ride since we rst started in 1993 with many highs, and a few hurdles to overcome, which we’ve done with grace and hard work. Many of our longstanding board members cherish our rst WICC in 1994, but my personal landmarks are securing Worldchefs membership in Kyoto, Japan in 2002 and, of course, winning the bid to host the Worldchefs Congress in 2026. We’d love to hear your highlights. To mark the occasion and to celebrate our achievements, past, present and future, we’ll be hosting a very special, black-tie dinner on 20th June at the ICC Wales in Newport. I do hope you can join us. Details are on page 10.

It’ll be a chance to catch up with old friends, make many new ones and give ourselves a well-earned pat on the back as we look to the future. A future that promises much.

In

Arwyn Watkins OBE president@culinaryassociation.wales

It To Win It

Perseverance

World

Wales to host 2026 Worldchefs Congress

Cool As Ice

Why the ICC Wales is the nation’s premier foodie conference venue

e Mighty Quill

Chartists

review

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Cra Food Artisan (© Culinary Association of Wales) is published by the Culinary Association of Wales and produced by Conroy Media Ltd. Production team and contributors: Donna Heath, Rose Tuite, Katy Godsell, Paul Mulligan, James Meredith, Paul Spencer, Mike Lewis and Rachael Phillips.

omas Herbert, National Chef of Wales 2022

Sion clinches place in the Global Chefs Challenge final

Sion Hughes, 25, head chef at The Spa at Carden Park, near Chester, excelled in his first senior competition by qualifying for the Global Chefs Challenge final in Singapore next year. He qualified with an Estonian chef from the competition’s North Europe heat, organised by Worldchefs, in Rimini, Italy.

Sion, who won a silver medal, was supported by his commis, Junior Culinary Team Wales captain Calum Smith, pastry chef at Shrewsbury School and coach and mentor, Culinary Association of Wales culinary director Graham Tinsley, MBE, executive head chef at Carden Park Hotel and Spa.

Calum also won a silver medal in the Global Young Chefs Challenge North Europe heat which sadly was not enough to qualify for the final.

Welsh chefs meet Prime Minister at St David’s Day event

Prime Minister Rishi Sunak, Max Boyce and Sir Bryn Terfel were amongst the guests who enjoyed canapes prepared by a team of Welsh chefs at a St David’s Day reception held at 10 Downing Street.

Chefs from the Culinary Association of Wales prepared savoury and sweet canapes for VIP guests from business, culture and entertainment. The chefs were led by Michael Bates, executive head chef at the Celtic Manor Resort, Newport who was accompanied by work colleagues William Hobbs, food beverage manager, Byron Lewis Burns, senior sous chef and Rebekah Ann Wright, sous chef and Craig Bennett and Jessica Shaw from Cambrian Training Company.

Silver lining for young Welsh chefs at the Culinary World Cup

The Junior Culinary Team Wales celebrated a silver and bronze medal at the Culinary World Cup success in Luxembourg in November.

Competing against 15 other teams from around the world they added the silver medal in the Restaurant of Nations hot kitchen to a bronze medal in the Table of Fire element won earlier in the competition.

The team comprises captain Calum Smith, pastry chef at Shrewsbury School, Harry Paynter-Roberts, sous chef at Carden Park Hotel and Spa, near Chester, Sion Hughes, head chef the Spa at Carden Park Hotel, Stephanie Belcher, chef de partie at Coast, Saundersfoot, Harry Osborne, head chef at the Quay Hotel and Spa, Deganwy and Jay Rees, who is studying for a degree at Grŵp Llandrillo Menai.

Captain Calum Smith praised the hard work by everybody involved with the team. “Overall, we are delighted to win silver and bronze medals, which is a massive achievement for our inexperienced team and for Wales,” he said.

Young Ukrainian refugee wins award for perfect 100% scores

Seventeen-year-old Ukrainian refugee Yuliia Batrak achieved perfect 100% scores in two skills competitions at Welsh International Culinary Championships to win the award for best live open class competitor.

Yuliia fled her home in Kiev with her mum Liudmyla and sister Alona, following the Russian invasion last year. Now a VRQ Level 1 Hospitality student at Grŵp Llandrillo Menai’s Coleg Llandrillo campus, she won gold medals in both the knife skills for fruit and for vegetables and soup making classes.

“In all the years that I have been involved in the industry, I have never known a competitor to compete in skills classes and not drop a point,” said Arwyn Watkins, OBE, Culinary Association of Wales president.

Emily wins through to 2023 Riso Gallo Young Risotto Chef grand final

Emily Sellars, a 19-year-old student chef from Coleg y Cymoedd, clinched a place in the final of the 2023 Riso Gallo Young Risotto Chef of UK and Ireland after winning the Wales heat at the Welsh International Culinary Championships. She went on to compete in the Grand Final at The Tottenham Hotspur Stadium, after winning a bronze medal in the Wales heat with her dish of Penclawdd cockle and soppressata risotto with parsley and walnut pesto, Caws Teifi and parmesan crisp.

Sharna qualifies for Major culinary competition final after Wales success

Sharna Fraser, a 16-year-old professional cookery student from Cheshire South & West College’s Crewe campus, won the regional semi-final at the Welsh International Culinary Championships to qualify for the junior Major Culinary Challenge Competition final in March.

Sharna, who lives in Shavington and works part-time at her local Hickory’s Smokehouse, cooked a two course menu in an hour, including a vegan starter and a main course of her own choice.

Sion Hughes and Calum Smith flying the Welsh flag.

The Culinary Association of Wales team outside 10, Downing Street.

Yuliia Batrak receives her award from Lesley Griffiths, Minister for Rural Affairs and North Wales and Arwyn Watkins, OBE, Culinary Association of Wales president.

Emily Sellars receives her award from Arwyn Watkins, OBE, Culinary Association of Wales president.

Sharna receives her award from Fergus Martin, senior development chef for Major, and Culinary Association of Wales president Arwyn Watkins, OBE.

Calum Smith

Teaming with talent at Brød

Ex-photographer Betina is focussed on her Danish bakery’s success

Former professional photographer Betina Skovbro is enjoying the sweet taste of success following her decision to focus on a successful baking career that continues to rise. Betina, who’s originally from Copenhagen, launched artisan bakery, Brød, in Cardiff in 2015 because after spotting a gap in the market for freshly baked Danish breads, pastries and cakes.

Eight years later, she’s employing 25 people in a stateof-the-art bakery and two coffee shops, has a series of awards under her belt and has exciting plans in the pipeline to expand her business, as she continues to reinvest profits.

The new 2,000 square feet bakery is in Roath, Cardiff while the two coffee shops are in Pontcanna area of the capital and in Penarth. The bakery also runs a takeaway service between 8am and 2pm for people to buy freshly baked products, tea and coffee.

Betina credits her business success to hard work, dedication and growing her own skilled staff by using the Welsh Government’s Apprenticeship Programme, delivered at Brød by Cambrian Training Company, an award-winning pan-Wales training provider. The apprentices learn Danish artisan baking techniques.

Brød hasn’t looked back since taking on its first apprentices shortly after the business opened. One of them, Rebekah Chatfield, is now the head baker, leading a team of six, which includes two current apprentices, Clara White, 26, and Zeba Nessa, 26, who are working towards an Apprenticeship in Proficiency in Baking Industry Skills.

Betina has had seven apprentice bakers in the business to date and plans to employ many more in the future to fully utilise the new bakery, which opened last October.

“I support apprenticeships because for me it’s all about training the next generation in the baking industry and growing your own talent,” she says. “You can’t expect an industry to have skilled people if you don’t train them yourself.

“When you find someone who’s passionate about your profession, the best thing you can do is to keep growing their skills. You have to invest in skilled staff for the long term.

“Apprenticeships are now embedded as a core part of our business. We have seen first-hand the ways our apprentices have developed, how their skills and confidence have been enhanced and how they have grown as people.

“We have been with Cambrian Training Company for six years and they have been very supportive in helping me to grow the business using the apprenticeship programme.”

Looking to the future, Betina says the purpose-built bakery will allow her to employ and train more apprentices, to run a baking school and to expand her customer base. She’s also considering opening more Brød coffee shops.

Zeba, a Mathematics honour graduate, loves home baking and feels her apprenticeship is preordained. Following a surprise break to Denmark in December, she made a New Year resolution to try and find a baking job.

She then saw the vacancy for an apprentice baker at Brød, secured the post and started work on March 6. “It was like a series events leading up to this - a funny way of the universe telling me that I should take the job,” said Zeba.

“From day one, I have been folding pastry, learning how to make icing and the staff have trusted me with everything. It’s a nice, homely atmosphere and I am loving it.

“As part of my apprenticeship, I am so excited that I get to come up with two brand new products and ideas that I can execute, design and make. I had always wanted to get into the food industry but lacked the required experience, so this apprenticeship is a great opportunity for me.”

Fellow apprentice Clara, who lives in Barry, hopes to complete her apprenticeship by early summer. A Food Science graduate, she previously had a desk job at a cake manufacturer but wanted a more hands on role which the apprenticeship at Brød has provided.

She has learned pastry and breadmaking skills and hopes to progress to patisserie before eventually, sometime in the future, fulfilling a dream of running her own business.

“The apprenticeship is hard work but it has paid off for me with the skills that I’ve learnt and it has definitely made me more confident in how I work,” said Clara.

“Mark Llewellyn, my training officer from Cambrian Training, has ensured that I have kept on track with my apprenticeship and bakery manager Becky Chatfield, who’s a really good teacher, has been a huge help.”

Proud sponsors of the Home Nations Culinary Teams and the Culinary Association of Wales

It’s Our Turn

Wales to host the Worldchefs Congress & Expo in 2026

The Culinary Association of Wales (CAW) has won the bid to host the prestigious Worldchefs Congress & Expo in 2026. This is a major coup for the Welsh food industry and its culinary professionals who will be given the opportunity to showcase their talent alongside amazing Welsh produce to an international audience. The event will take place at the International Convention Centre Wales (ICC Wales) in May 2026 and is expected to attract up to 1,000 chefs and more than 5,000 visitors.

The ICC Wales is ideally situated just off the M4 in Newport, South Wales and is a purpose-built conference and exhibition venue located within the grounds of the Celtic Manor Resort. Along with other hotels in the local area, the Celtic Manor will provide the accommodation for delegates and visitors to the event.

Ian Edwards, CEO of ICC Wales, explained: “Securing the World Chefs Congress in 2026 is an incredible feat not just for our venue but for Wales. The event is testament to the country’s wealth of produce and its growing food and drink industry, which contributes to gross sales of £17.3bn per year. With a warm Welsh welcome, we’re hoping this event will see delegates return and explore more of what the country has to offer.”

The Worldchefs Congress & Expo has been bringing together chefs, culinary professionals and industry experts from around the world since 1928, giving them a platform to exchange ideas, showcase their skills and explore the latest trends and innovations in the culinary field.

The event is held every two years and organised by the World Association of Chefs’ Societies (Worldchefs), a global network of chefs and culinary associations that aims to promote culinary arts, support culinary education and advocate for sustainability and social responsibility in the food industry.

The event has been designed to encourage food industry professionals across the world to connect

and collaborate with their peers from different countries and cultures, which can lead to new ideas, techniques and culinary innovations. Worldchefs Congress & Expo also offers a range of educational and professional development opportunities, including workshops, seminars and cooking demonstrations, that can help enhance skills and knowledge.

The event also plays an important role in promoting the culinary arts as a profession and raising awareness about the importance of sustainability and social responsibility in the food industry.

Wales beat Italy with 28 votes to 24 to win the bid to host the Worldchefs Congress & Expo in 2026 based on the strength of its proposal, which highlighted the country’s culinary expertise, infrastructure, geographic location and the potential economic impact. It also proved how well Wales can handle such events as the Celtic Manor Resort, in partnership with the CAW and Welsh Government, successfully hosted Worldchefs meetings in 2017 and 2019.

Arwyn Watkins, OBE, CAW president, said: “This is a significant landmark event for Wales. It’s the culinary equivalent of Wales hosting the football World Cup finals. We are delighted to have received the support of 28 countries around the world, including all the home nations. The hard work starts now to maximise this huge opportunity that has been awarded to Wales.”

The 2026 Worldchefs Congress & Expo theme will be ‘Pasture, Passion, Plate’ and how the event benefits future generations. “Pasture, Passion, Plate” is a slogan used by the CAW to promote the use of high-quality, locally sourced ingredients in Welsh cuisine.

“Pasture,” refers to the importance of using ingredients that come from Welsh farms. By supporting local farmers and producers, the CAW aims to promote sustainable agriculture and preserve the traditional food culture of Wales.

“Passion,” emphasises the importance of chefs and culinary professionals who are passionate about their craft and committed to using the best possible ingredients in their cooking. By promoting passion and dedication in the culinary arts, the CAW hopes to raise the profile of Welsh cuisine and inspire others to pursue careers in the food industry.

Finally, “plate” refers to the end result of all this effort: a beautifully prepared and delicious meal that celebrates the best of Welsh ingredients and culinary traditions. By focusing on the plate, the CAW aims to showcase the diversity and richness of Welsh cuisine and encourage people to explore and enjoy the many flavours and textures of this unique food culture. The event is all about bringing together industry experts and enthusiasts from all over the world to share knowledge, exchange ideas and celebrate the art of cuisine. Expect there to be plenty of cooking demonstrations and workshops featuring some of the world’s most renowned chefs, as well as plenty of seminars, panel discussions, networking opportunities and food and drink tastings.

But with this event being held in Wales, it’s a perfect time to showcase the exceptional talent we have in Welsh kitchens from North to South Wales and every village and valley in between. As well as being a great opportunity for professional development it’s a chance to give Welsh chefs and other organisations the opportunity to showcase their talents and products to an international audience.

Minister for Rural Affairs Lesley Griffiths said: “This is great news and I’m very pleased Wales will be hosting the Worldchefs Congress in 2026. It will be a tremendous opportunity to showcase Welsh produce to the world.”

As a result of winning the bid, Wales will receive automatic finalists for the Global Chefs Challenge, Global Young Chefs Challenge, Global Pastry Chef Challenge and Global Vegan Chef Challenge all taking place at the Worldchefs Congress and Expo 2026.

So, whilst those chefs are yet to be finalised, one rising star is Sion Hughes, 25, head chef at The Spa at Carden Park, near Chester. Supported by his commis Calum Smith, a pastry chef at Shrewsbury School and captain of Junior Culinary Team Wales, he will be competing in the Global Chefs Challenge final at the Worldchefs Congress & Expo 2024 in Singapore. “I’m really buzzing to qualify for the global final,” said Sion. Calum added: “Representing your country on the international stage is the highest point you can reach.”

The hospitality and tourism industry has been greatly affected by the global events of the past two years. Hosting the Worldchefs Congress & Expo in Wales in 2026 can have a significant legacy for the country. It can help to boost tourism, not just when the thousands of visitors arrive to visit the congress but also helping to generate revenue for local businesses beyond by showing them Wales is a great country to visit.

Hosting the Worldchefs Congress & Expo in Wales is going to have a positive impact on the Welsh economy, food industry and tourism sector, while also providing opportunities for professional development and collaboration, alongside heaps of good food, wine and fun. It will also leave a lasting legacy as the infrastructure and facilities put in place to host the congress can be used to host other events and activities in the future.

Supplier Profile

ICC Wales

Paul Williams, ICC Wales’ PR Manager, sheds light on Wales’ state of the art events hub

What is the ICC Wales?

International Convention Centre Wales (ICC Wales) is the UK’s newest and most exciting events venue. Opened in 2019, world-class facilities include a 4,000 sq m pillar-free exhibition hall, a 1,500-seat auditorium, versatile meeting rooms and an abundance of breakout and networking spaces, flooded in natural daylight.

Built in an £84m joint venture project between the Celtic Collection and Welsh Government, the venue is highly accessible just a stone’s throw from Junction 24 of the M4, yet it is situated in ancient woodland with floor to ceiling meeting room windows and outdoor breathing space making the most of the stunning environment.

Where did the idea come from and what are your aims/ambitions?

ICC Wales is the first large-scale convention centre in Wales, and a venue which establishes the country as a major destination for business events.

The Celtic Manor Resort has a long-established reputation for holding major conferences, including the 2014 NATO Summit, but found it was being forced to turn away some event business because its capacity of 1,500 was not large enough for the biggest events. Plans for a new convention centre with a capacity for 5,000 delegates on the resort site crystalised into the joint venture with Welsh Government to build ICC Wales. Bringing more than £70m per annum into the South Wales visitor economy, ICC Wales is a gamechanging venue which puts Wales firmly on the map as a place to host international business events.

What kind of events do you host and how small can you go, and how big?

ICC Wales can host a huge variety of events from corporate and association conferences and exhibitions to consumer shows, graduation ceremonies, music concerts, theatre shows, weddings and sporting events. Due to the impact of Covid, 2022 was the first full year of trading for ICC Wales but events already held at the venue include the UK Space Conference for more than 2,000 delegates, the Royal College of Midwives (RCM) Annual Conference for more than 3,000 delegates, and Comic Con Wales which attracted in excess of 10,000 attendees over three days.

The main exhibition hall and larger meeting rooms are all divisible into smaller sections, meaning the centre can cater for all size of events while a number of boardrooms can host meetings for just a handful of people.

What sets the ICC Wales apart from other conference venues?

ICC Wales occupies a unique location with a bridge leading directly from the back of the building into the adjacent ancient woodland where delegates can enjoy outdoor breakout sessions and walking trails. The wellbeing benefits of the setting are also seen from meeting room windows looking out on the stunning natural environment, yet ICC Wales is within moments of Newport city centre and the M4 motorway, making it highly accessible by road and rail.

As a new venue, state of the art AV and sustainability features were built into the design and ICC Wales is at the cutting edge of the event experience. Construction only commenced following extensive focus group research with clients and other industry experts to ensure the end result matched their recommendations for creating the very best convention centre.

When and how did you get involved in food and drink events? What events do you host in the food and drink arena?

Food and drink is a growing sector both within Wales and globally so there are an increasing number of important industry events.

Food and drink are also an important part of the ICC Wales philosophy where we seek to champion the fantastic array of local produce available in Wales while keeping delegates energised with a catering provision that nourishes the mind, body and soul.

Having previously held Welsh Government’s Blas Cymru/Taste Wales event at the Celtic Manor Resort, ICC Wales was delighted to stage this event in 2021 and will be welcoming it back once more in 2023. We were also delighted to host the World Cheese Awards in 2022.

How did you get involved with CAW and the bid for the Worldchefs Congress and what does it mean for you?

Our relationship with CAW dates back many years with Celtic Collection and ICC Wales chefs competing for the Welsh culinary team at international championships over a long period, as well as cooking for the St David’s Day reception at 10 Downing Street. Group Culinary Director Peter Fuchs is a former Welsh culinary team manager and Executive Head Chef Michael Bates serves on the committee.

So we were really excited when CAW suggested we partner to bid for the Worldchefs Congress & Expo and we are thrilled to have won the bid to host this prestigious event in 2026. We cannot wait to welcome many of the world’s finest chefs to Wales and showcase everything that Welsh food and drink has to offer.

Down to a Tee

John Quill enjoys life working in the 19th Hole

JQ Catering Services is a catering and hospitality business based at Creigiau Golf Club, providing on site catering to its members and guests along with off-site catering to private and corporate clients. Founded by John Quill, services include the provision of buffets, event catering, private chef services, BBQ’s & cooking lessons.

John’s background is a little unusual for the catering industry, as he explains. “I grew up in London and trained as a chef in Surrey. For many years I worked for corporates at senior management and multi-site level before returning to chefing after my daughter became ill in 2006. I resigned from my Operations Manager position and registered as an agency chef so that I could work flexibly to support my daughter’s cancer treatment. Following her recovery, I registered as selfemployed and JQ Catering Services was born.”

For many, Covid was a challenging time but for JQ Catering it presented an opportunity as one contract came in after another. “Following Covid in June 2021 I successfully tendered for the catering contract at Llantrisant & Pontyclun Golf Club. In May 2022 I was approached by Creigiau Golf Club as their caterers had left without giving notice, leaving them with several large events without any catering services. They asked if I would be able to assist on the days around my busy schedule at Llantrisant & Pontyclun Golf Club. I agreed to help, which was the beginning of the relationship between JQ Catering Services Ltd & Creigiau Golf Club. In September 2022, I made the decision to terminate my contract at L&PGC and look for alternative premises. Having heard this news, the club captain from Creigiau Golf Club approached me and we took over the contract on the 4th October 2022.”

Expanding on what it’s like to work at a golf club it’s clear that because Golf Clubs are usually governed by rules, committees and management teams and can sometimes be restricted to members only, they’re a different proposition to a normal restaurant but there are similarities. “Most of our food is prepared on site and either served to customers visiting the golf club or delivered to their chosen location. Our private chef services provide clients with a more personal service where the food would be prepared at their home or chosen venue.” He continues, “I am in control of all menu’s, the sourcing of ingredients and choosing suppliers.”

Because of the nature of his business, and having to be acutely aware of the differing needs of his clients and diners, there are a number of factors that influence the choice of ingredients, style of cuisine and dish choices. “We provide so many different types of catering for an array of different events and although we do have

a selection of set menus we also offer a very bespoke service so are influenced by the requests and dietary requirements of the client.” Having said that, there’s the opportunity to show his natural flair. “Although we provide traditional offerings it is the fusion of different foods together that excites me and I try to promote that whenever possible.”

For most of his recent career there has been a consistent thread, which has enabled him to continually grow. “I have been a proud member of the CAW since 2011 and I have promoted my involvement at every opportunity. For large events and when catering for VIP’s I proudly wear my CAW jacket and am certain that during the early years of JQ Catering Services that it assisted in giving client’s confidence in me and the services being provided. I was also fortunate enough to assist the knife company F Dick travelling around the UK providing customers at several Nisbets stores with knife demonstrations due to my involvement with the CAW.”

Being a member hasn’t always been a cake-walk though as he’s had to push himself in rewarding, if challenging ways. “Competing in the National Chef of The Year competition was exciting but nerve racking. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience reaching the semi’s in 2012, 2014 and 2016 and then the final in 2018. I believe in challenging yourself to do better…be better and it took me out of my comfort zone on each occasion.”

Winners’ parade

Victors crowned at the 2023 WICC

Matthew Smith’s elusive goal of winning the National Chef of Wales competition finally became reality at his fifth and final attempt. The 39-year-old from New Mills, near Newtown, triumphed in a cook-off against eight rivals at the Welsh International Culinary Championships organised by the Culinary Association of Wales at Grŵp Llandrillo Menai’s campus, Rhos-onSea.

A jubilant Matthew, ably supported by 17-year-old commis Amy Phillips, from Cheshire College South & West, Crewe, where he works as a chef lecturer, said he could think of no better early 40th birthday present. “It means everything to me because I have committed so much to training and developing myself and sacrificed money, time and mental health,” he said.

“This was going to be my last attempt. Last year, I was too egotistical, thinking I was going to win the final and it gave me a kick in the teeth and showed me that I needed to listen to the advice I was given.” Matthew reckoned his three dishes were the best he had cooked in the competition. “We did the full run-through of the dishes seven times and the final was the best they had come out,” he said. “Everything just flowed.”

Chairman of judges Colin Gray said: “It’s a real honour to be crowned National Chef of Wales and to have that on your CV is a massive accolade.”

The finalists cooked their own creative menu for a three-course dinner for 12 people within five hours, using a majority of Welsh ingredients. Matthew served up a starter of baked carrot, pickled and creamed carrot, granola, tuille of carrot and carraway, cream of coconut and masala.

Main course was loin of lamb, mousseline, tart of neck and chives, sheep’s cheese, broccoli, sticky braised celeriac, leek top emulsion, crispy roscoff onion, pomme puree and jus. Dessert was milk chocolate delice, hazelnut biscuit, dark chocolate mousse, blackberry ice cream, meringue, blackberries, warm chocolate hazelnut financier and praline.

The victor received £500, a set of engraved knives from Friedr Dick, £250 worth of Churchill products and the coveted dragon trophy.

Stephanie Belcher, a chef de partie from Coast Restaurant, Saundersfoot, edged out four other chefs to take the Junior Chef of Wales title after just 12 days’ preparation. The 21-year-old from Crickhowell was due to compete at the Global Pastry Chef Challenge North Europe heat in Italy before a late withdrawal of Wales’ entry.

Her reward is the chance of a lifetime to attend the

Competitions

Worldchefs Congress 2024 in Singapore with CAW delegates and qualification for the semi-finals of the Young National Chef of the Year contest along with support from the Junior Culinary Team Wales, a set of engraved knives from Friedr Dick and products worth £100 from Churchill.

Adam Jones, the new Welsh Butcher of the Year, described joining the trade as the best decision of his life. The 18-year-old, who lives in Penyffordd and works for Swans Farm Shop, Treuddyn, near Mold, said: “I’m in shock. I left school with the minimum qualifications and now I am one of the best in Wales at my trade.”

Finalists had 55 minutes to seam a leg and chump of pork into individual muscles and another hour to turn the meat into a visually exciting display of products celebrating a special occasion of their own choice. Culinary Association of Wales president Arwyn Watkins said the competition had been relaunched to seek new blood for the Craft Butchery Team Wales squad.

“It’s really great to see this competition back and a perfect catalyst for launching someone’s career,” he said. “With the competition judged by members of our Craft Butchery Team Wales, it helps us in the process of securing the next generation of team members.”

Matthew Smith

Stephanie Belcher

Adam Jones

Steph, Lesley and Arwyn

The Good Shepherd

For Sheeps and Leeks patron Paul Hearns, nothing beats Welsh produce and being part of a team

Tell us about your background and the ethos behind Sheeps and Leeks – and where did the name come from?

Since launching my career at 16 in 1998, I’ve been fortunate enough to work at a variety of exceptional establishments under highly esteemed chefs and mentors throughout the UK and Europe, which has helped shape me into the chef and restaurateur I am today.

At Restaurant Sheeps & Leeks, we are on a mission to create a truly unforgettable, relaxed fine dining experience. Our approach is simple: we use the freshest and highest quality local and Welsh produce available, to create innovative, seasonally inspired menus that showcase the best of what our region has to offer. Working closely with local producers and artisans is not only good for the environment and the local economy, but also essential for creating exceptional cuisine and a truly memorable dining experience for our guests.

What made you want to open in Caernarfon and what’s it like running a restaurant in Wales at the moment?

We carefully selected Caernarfon for several compelling reasons. This historic town is teeming with character and boasts a rich cultural heritage, making it an ideal location. Furthermore, the surrounding region is brimming with exceptional produce and talented artisans, providing us with a wealth of inspiration and resources to create innovative and memorable dishes. Operating a restaurant in Wales today is an incredibly exciting endeavour. There has been a tremendous surge of interest in the Welsh culinary scene in recent years, with diners increasingly gravitating towards smaller, independent establishments like ours, rather than large, chain restaurants.

You’ve already gained a lot of recognition, from Michelin and Good Food, why do you think that is?

I am humbled by the recognition that Sheeps & Leeks has received. It’s a testament to the exceptional hard work and dedication of our team, as well as our unwavering commitment to the restaurant’s ethos. We have such a talented and passionate team, who consistently give their all. We are united in our shared goal of delivering a truly exceptional dining experience to our guests, pushing ourselves to constantly improve and innovate. This commitment is reflected in every dish we serve, and I am incredibly proud of what we have accomplished together so far.

You’re clearly a great advocate of Welsh produce –what makes it so special and what are your particular favourites right now?

There are many reasons but we believe it’s the people behind the production who truly make it stand out.

They are dedicated, proud, and passionate about what they do, and their commitment to their craft is evident in the outstanding quality of their products.

Our restaurant is a celebration of Welsh produce from top to bottom. We are proud to source our ingredients from a wide range of local producers, including Hootons for fresh fruit and vegetables, Cosyn Cymru for local cheeses, Bangor Apiaries for delicious honey, Snowdon Valley Farm for fantastic mushrooms, Wavells Butcher for home-reared pork and local meats, and Gwynfyd Mon for local wines, among many others.

Each of these exceptional producers brings something unique and special to the table, and we feel incredibly fortunate to have access to such a diverse and exceptional range of Welsh food and drink, and we are proud to be able to showcase it to our guests in every dish we serve.

You’re a member of the Culinary Association of Wales – what made you want to join and what are the benefits?

It’s a great way to connect with other chefs and industry professionals who share the same love for Welsh produce. CAW offers a variety of events, workshops, and competitions that provide opportunities for networking, learning, and showcasing our skills.

As a member, I have access to a wealth of resources and information about the Welsh culinary scene, including news about local producers, new ingredients, and emerging food trends. The association also provides a platform to promote our restaurant and our commitment to using local Welsh produce.

Overall, being a member has been a great way to stay connected to the local culinary community, learn from others, and promote our restaurant’s ethos and values.

How do you see the Welsh food and drink scene unfolding and what are your hopes for its, and your, future?

As more and more people become interested in local, sustainable, and high-quality food, we believe that the growth of the Welsh food and drink scene will continue, with more local producers and independent restaurants gaining even greater popularity and recognition.

As for the future of Sheeps & Leeks, we will continue to innovate and create unique and delicious menus using the best Welsh produce available, to provide our guests with a memorable and relaxed fine dining experience, while also supporting the local economy and promoting sustainability. Overall, we are excited for what the future holds and are dedicated to making our mark in the Welsh culinary scene.

at the Trewythen, Llandidloes

The Trewythen in the pretty mid-Wales town of Llanidloes is a fine Grade 2 listed Georgian restaurant with rooms that’s been sensitively updated and maintained. This beautiful building with its equally impressive restaurant, Chartists 1770, named after a Chartist uprising in Llanidloes, is an apt setting for a meal that reflects the elegance and perennial appeal of the architecture.

Chef Jamie Tully may have worked with some of Wales most renowned chefs, such as Nathan Davies at SY23, but he has a style all his own. He and his team, many of whom are local and trained by Cambrian Training, have conjured a creative, fine-dining menu full of local and home-made produce.

We commenced with home-made griddle toasted breads with perfectly balanced home-made garlic and herb butter, followed by delightful amuse bouches, one of aromatic grilled fennel, the other of Jerk chicken from a family recipe, courtesy of a Jamaican friend, both on beds of cabbage and locally harvested wild garlic mayonnaise. The chicken’s spice and seasoning was staggeringly good, with a bit of heat, rich depth and a slight tang in its lovely crust. The mayo cool, gentle garlic with a buttery, almost edame flavour. The soy glazed lamb ribs arrived next. Cooked perfectly, with most of the fat melted away leaving a glorious flavour, the meat fell off the bone. The reduced soy and lamb jus glaze was pitched just right, being both sweet and sour with an umami kick. The Pantysgawn Goats Cheese was oh so creamy with a nutty, fresh taste that meshed well with the accompanying beetroot carpaccio’s sweet, coolness. On to the mains. The Welsh PGI Beef Striploin arrived sliced, a perfect medium rare and melt-in-the mouth tender with a piece of short-rib for a bit of fat flavoured heaven. Adorned with finely cut fennel, sweetcorn, a turnip puree and beef jus, it was an impeccable medley of complimentary flavours - the satisfying beefyness, the slight anise of the fennel, the subtlety of the sweetcorn, the earthy puree and the rich, French influenced jus reduction - all in harmony. The baked celeriac was a nutty, oven baked delight with a rich deep hoisin-like plant based demi accented by more foraged wild garlic and served with al dente spring veg. As for the desserts, we could devote the whole review to them. We opted for the Chocolate Cremeux and the Teisen Mel. Both had the same ethos. A handful of top drawer, local, and if at all possible, home-made elements, expertly crafted, that sit unbelievably well with each other. The Cremeux’s rich, intense dark chocolate, sweet, crisp caramelised banana, bitter/sweet mocha ice cream and nutty caramel on the one hand. A traditional Teisen Mel with a twist, on the other – a wonderfully light and delicious sponge cake made with local honey (from an apprentice’s uncle, no less), on a bed of home-made granola, a home-made honey

ice-cream, garnished with honeycomb and contrasting with the sharpness of pink grapefruit. We also sampled the simple but stunning home-made rhubarb (grown locally) ice cream and the more savoury poppy seed ice cream with a delicate, fluffy creamy lemon cheesecake. All sublime. An honourable mention also to the gorgeous and completely home-made granola, yoghurt and rhubarb pot served at breakfast.

The dishes were full of flair and imagination and all were perfectly executed. As well as being technically spot on, Jamie clearly has an amazing palate – all the constituent flavours were beautifully balanced, with a degree of subtlety that allowed the core ingredients to shine. The vibe was relaxed and the surroundings lovely. The perfect weekend getaway.

Happy Birthdays to us!

1993. It seems like only yesterday. Who would have thought that the seed of an idea from a merry band of Welsh chefs would, over time, develop into an organisation that would help put Wales on the culinary map and be instrumental in bringing an event as prestigious as the Worldchefs Congress to our small, if bountiful part of the world. It’s been a remarkable journey since the Culinary Association of Wales drew its first breath in 1993. And we asked members, alumni and other key figures to pick their favourite CAW moments over the last 30 years.

The first major highlight was undoubtedly the inaugural Welsh International Culinary Championships in 1994. The next competitive achievement mentioned by many members is Kyoto, Japan in 2002, where Wales secured membership of Worldchefs and secured its first Gold medal at the World Cup. 2004 saw the Junior Team compete for the first time at Erfurt winning a Gold Medal. Arguably top of the list is winning the bid to host the Worldchefs Congress in 2026 with hosting the European Conference in 2019 and Worldchefs meeting board at the Celtic Manor in 2017 as close runners-up.

Along the way, CAW has cooked for many dignitaries and at historic events, providing many proud moments for members. Not least in 1998 for the Emperor and Empress of Japan at Cardiff Castle and for the Queen and Prince Charles at the opening of the National Assembly in 1999 and again for the Queen and Prince Charles at subsequent National Assembly openings in 2007 and 2011.

Preparing banquets for royalty is a recurring theme, with members also pointing to a dinner at Highgrove for HRH Prince Charles and Welsh Industry leaders in 2000, the 50th anniversary of Prince Charles’ inauguration as Prince of Wales at Caerphilly Castle in 2008 and the visit of the Queen and the Qatari royal family to Milford Haven in 2009.

Cooking for politicians and public figures also features highly. In 2000 the CAW cooked for the Heads of State Banquet at Cardiff Castle with World Heads of State

in Attendance. Two years later, for the CAW cooked for First Minister Rhodri Morgan at a reception at the Senedd and again at a Foreign Office reception in 2005. In 2003 CAW cooked for the British Irish Council at Cardiff Castle and for Presiding Officer Lord Elis Thomas and AMs at the Senedd in 2006.

Sport is commonly mentioned too. CAW members met with Llanelli and Wales rugby coach Gareth Jenkins at a CAW Golf Day at the Celtic Manor Resort in and, separately, former Manchester United and Wales manager Mark Hughes in 2002. They also cooked for Wales rugby players Mike Phillips, James Hook and Sam Warburton in 2010. Whilst in 2013 CAW Organised the menu for the opening of the Rugby World Cup in Moscow.

The CAW and its members have often represented Wales on the international stage, show-casing Welsh products and skills, most notably at St David’s Day events in all corners of the world and display cooking for the Food and Drink Wales stand at food expo’s as far afield as Anuga (Germany), Brussels, Hong Kong, New York and Dubai.

There have been some intensely emotional moments too. When three members were chosen to walk in the Queen Mothers 100th birthday parade in 2000, or the making of Prince William and Kate Middleton weeding cake by CAW’s Sally Owens, which was then presented to Princess Diana’s Charity Centrepoint. And perhaps most memorable of all Prince Charles agreement to be patron of CAW in 2001.

Quite a journey. And one that we will celebrate in style at a gala, black tie dinner on 20 June at ICC Wales in the Celtic Manor Resort near Newport. As we embark on a very exciting time for the Association it’s important to maintain the ties that bond us all as chefs in Wales, to join together to mark what we have achieved over the last 30 years and to continue to grow. So please join us on the 20th of June.