Craft Food Artisan | Summer Edition

President’s Welcome

Welcome to the summer edition of Cra Food Artisan. I hope the content of this magazine will inspire you to continue to engage with your association. We have some exciting features within this edition and I know that for many of our members this is an extremely busy time of the year.

Having just celebrated our 30th Anniversary with a Gala Dinner, we have also secured new homes for our Junior Culinary Team and Cra Butchery Team as well as a brand-new partnership agreement with ICC Wales for the delivery of our Welsh International Culinary Championships. e last three months have kept the team extremely busy and you can read much more about all of these activities within the pages of this magazine.

Having celebrated the past 30 years, we have certainly proved that our founding members made the correct decision in establishing the organisation to promote skills via competitions, showcase Welsh Food and Drink at home and abroad and deliver VIP functions again both at home and overseas.

As Chefs, Butchers and Bakers who are extremely busy at work, it is sometimes very di cult for us to nd the time to provide the written evidence to demonstrate that we are worth investing in and our outcomes are of real bene t to Wales Food and Drink at home and abroad.

Believe me, we take nothing for granted and all of the work of this association and its teams is carried out on a voluntary basis. We continue to seek members and partners that can support our work, enabling us to achieve our objectives which include giving teams and individuals the opportunity to y the ag for Food and Drink from Wales at home and on the World Stage in their chosen cra .

Home nations’ representatives celebrate CAW’s 30th anniversary

As for the next 30 years, I believe that we are at a crossroads. We really need to continue to work hard to enlist support from the Food and Drink community in Wales, our stakeholders and, most importantly, Welsh Government if we are to secure the funding to carry on the great work of the past 30 years.

Over the next three years, we hope to feature at the Culinary Olympics 2024, Worldchefs Global Chef Finals 2024, World Butchers Challenge 2025, World Chefs Congress and Expo 2026 in Newport, Wales and the Culinary World Cup 2026. Without your support and the continued commitment of highly skilled professionals, none of this would be possible and I really hope that we can continue to make the Culinary Association of Wales the oldest and most successful initiative that supports Welsh Food and Drink at home and abroad.

Arwyn Watkins OBE president@culinaryassociation.wales

the WICC and forward to the Royal Welsh Show

Matthew

A Desire to Succeed

Stephanie

Aah, Bistrot!

Culinary Association of Wales National Committee: Arwyn Watkins OBE – President; Kurt Flemming - Financial Director; Graham Tinsley, MBE - Culinary Director; Colin Gray - Vice President & Chair of the Welsh International Culinary Championship (WICC); Vicky Watkins - O ce Manager; Michael Bates - External Events Lead; Nick Davies - National Team Manager; Michael Evans - Junior Team Manager; Danny Burke - Junior Team Coach; Chris Bason - Education and Skills Lead; Gareth Johns - Chef’s without Borders Ambassador; Donna Heath - National Sustainability Champion; Trish Bow - WICC Coordinator; Toby Beevers - Honorary Treasurer

Cra Food Artisan (© Culinary Association of Wales) is published by the Culinary Association of Wales and produced by Conroy Media Ltd. Production team and contributors: Donna Heath, Rose Tuite, Katy Godsell, Paul Mulligan, James Meredith, Paul Spencer, Mike Lewis and Rachael Phillips.

Cover:

More awards for CAW president Watkins

Culinary Association of Wales president Arwyn Watkins, OBE, has added another award to his growing list of honours. He won the Leader of the Year Award, sponsored by Veteran Trees, at this year’s Welsh Veterans Awards and was runner-up in Entrepreneur of the Year Award.

The award was in recognition of Arwyn’s role as CAW president in leading the successful Team Wales bid to bring the Worldchefs Congress and Expo to the International Convention Centre Wales (ICC Wales), Newport in 2026.

“The award was unexpected and it’s a great honour to win in such a strong category,” he said. “I do the voluntary job with the Culinary Association of Wales without thinking of accolades, but it’s nice to be recognised.”

Arwyn, a farmer’s son from Llanwrtyd Wells, joined the Army as an apprentice chef in 1978. “Many people wouldn’t know that I am a veteran and it’s only in recent years that I have reconnected with the veterans community. It’s turning out to be a memorable year, as I have been selected as one of 50 veterans from the Army Catering Corps for the Cenotaph March Past on Remembrance Sunday this year.”

Passionate about developing chefs in Wales, Arwyn coached the Welsh Junior Culinary Team to a Culinary Olympics gold medal in 2004 and was appointed CAW president in 2015. Three years later, he received the Worldchefs Presidents’ Medal for promoting the advancement and profile of the culinary arts and profession in Wales. In the New Year’s Honours List in 2018, he received an OBE for his services to education and training in Wales.

New home for the Junior Culinary Team Wales

Coleg y Cymoedd is to be the new home of the Junior Culinary Team Wales which is busy recruiting new members in preparation for the IKA/Culinary Olympics 2024 in Stuttgart next February.

The college, whose students regularly compete at the annual Welsh International Culinary Championships, has agreed a new partnership with the Culinary Association of Wales.

The college will host and provide the coach and manager of the junior team under the guidance of CAW culinary director Graham Tinsley, MBE.

The move follows the retirement of previous junior team manager Michael Evans, a senior lecturer at Grŵp Llandrillo Menai’s Rhos-on-Sea campus, which has been the home of the junior team since 2006. It demonstrates a commitment to reaching out across Wales for the best young chefs to represent their country on the World Stage.

The team won silver and bronze medals at the Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg last November, but three of the chefs are too old to compete at next year’s Culinary Olympics. Hence the need to recruit new members.

Any Welsh junior chef, under the age of 25 next February, who would like to put themselves forward for selection for the Wales team, is asked to contact: Graham Tinsley MBE our Culinary Director graham@grahamtinsley.co.uk

Welsh hospitality skills competitions unite

Hospitality skills competitions in Wales will be brought together at the Welsh International Culinary Championships (WICC) for the first-time next year.

The WICC, which is moving to the International Convention Centre Wales (ICC Wales), Newport, will incorporate Skills Competition Wales hospitality competitions over three days, from January 22-24.

Skills Competition Wales aims to raise the profile of skills in Wales and is part of the Welsh Government funded Inspiring Skills Excellence Programme. Students, Trainees and Apprentices are given a chance to challenge, benchmark and raise their skills by taking part in competitions across a range of sectors, which include the showpiece National and Junior Chef of Wales and Welsh Young Butcher competition finals. Winners will be announced at an awards dinner on Wednesday January 24.

CAW president Arwyn Watkins, OBE, is delighted at the support the move has received.

“Bringing all these competitions together in one place is fantastic news for the hospitality network in Wales,” he said. “The flagship venue of ICC Wales will be the hub for Welsh food, drink, hospitality and skills for three days.

“Previously, all these competitions were held in different places and on different dates. 2024 will be the first year but chefs, hospitality businesses, colleges and skills providers will know that these competitions will be held at the same time every year in future.

“We hope that, over the coming weeks, we can secure the continued commitment of our business partners and demonstrate to new business partners that this is an event to support.”

Arwyn Watkins, OBE, receives the Leader of the Year award from Brigadier Nick Thomas, CBE, from sponsor Veteran Trees, at the Welsh Veterans Awards.

Gala dinner celebrates

Culinary Association of Wales’ 30th birthday

Speakers reflected on past achievements and looked forward to an exciting future as members and guests celebrated the 30th anniversary of the formation of Culinary Association of Wales (CAW) at a gala dinner.

“The Culinary Association of Wales has many more years of success, growth and innovation ahead,” said president, Arwyn Watkins, OBE. “We can only imagine the remarkable achievements that lie in store for this association and its talented members.

“May it continue to be a beacon of culinary excellence, a source of inspiration for aspiring chefs and a testament to the remarkable talent and passion that resides in Wales.”

Mr Watkins, group executive chairman of Cambrian Training Company, Trailhead Fine Foods, Chartists 1770 at The Trewythen and Mid Wales Fayres, told the 150 guests at the International Convention Centre Wales (ICC Wales) in Newport that the gala dinner was celebrating 30 years of “culinary excellence, passion and innovation”.

He paid tribute to the seven founding members, three of whom - Graham Tinsley, MBE, Peter Jackson and Andy Goode – attended the dinner, and the talented chefs, industry professionals and culinary enthusiasts who had in the past and continue to uphold its values.

“Your hard work and creativity have not only elevated the culinary landscape of Wales but have also inspired countless others to follow in your footsteps,” he said.

“Throughout our 30-year journey, CAW members have represented Wales with distinction in numerous international competitions, bringing home countless accolades and showcasing the incredible skill and artistry that lies within our culinary community.”

Mr Watkins thanked organisers, mentors, partners, sponsors and stakeholders for their support and “unwavering belief in the power of gastronomy”.

By championing local produce, celebrating the diversity of regional flavours and forging strong relationships with farmers, fishermen and food producers, the CAW had helped to create a sustainable and ethical food system to showcase the best Wales has to offer, he added.

Looking to the future, he described securing the Worldchefs Congress and Expo in 2026 at ICC Wales

as a “significant achievement” by the Team Wales partners - CAW, ICC Wales, the Celtic Manor Resort and Visit Wales.

More than 1,000 chefs from around the world are expected at the event, which will raise the profile of Wales, create international networking and collaboration opportunities, enhance culinary skills by sharing knowledge and professional development and boost the Welsh economy and culinary tourism.

Mr Watkins made special reference to the valuable support received by the CAW from Lord Dafydd Elis-Thomas and Minister for Rural Affairs and North Wales, Lesley Griffiths, who were unable to attend the dinner.

Graham Tinsley, executive head chef at Carden Park Hotel and Spa, near Chester, spoke about the history, development and achievements of the senior and junior Culinary Teams Wales since 1994, sprinkled with funny anecdotes about overseas competitions.

Wales competed as a regional team until 2002 when the CAW achieved Worldchefs membership as a nation and were then able to compete against countries. Mr Tinsley explained that many chefs from around the globe didn’t recognise the Wales flag in the early years, but he concluded: “They know who we are now!”

He also explained how CAW had championed Welsh produce from the outset, and this, now more than ever, is still a core part of what the CAW does. He referred to the recent development of the Craft Butchery Team Wales which finished sixth on its debut in the World Butchers Challenge in America last year and will compete again Paris in 2025. He also revealed that the seeds had been sown to establish a Craft Bakery Team Wales.

Colin Gray, CAW vice president and managing director of Capital Cuisine in Caerphilly, spoke about the CAW’s history, praising the founders and chefs who had represented Wales with distinction and the excellent work of Mr Watkins as president.

Chefs from all the home nations were represented at the dinner, with Lee Corke from England, Kevin MacGillivray from Scotland and Brendan O’Neil from Ireland. Other guests included Dominico Maggi from Italy and Neil Thompson, Worldchefs’ continental director for Northern Europe.

Going for Gold

Olympians, past and present, look forward to the most prestigious event of the chef competition world – the 2024 Culinary Olympics. Mike Lewis reports.

When Nick Davies recalls representing his country at the IKA/Culinary Olympics it is the sense of camaraderie he remembers most. “From the moment you enter that bubble you are totally focused,” he says.

“You and your team-mates eat together, prep together, cook together and sleep together. I have friends from when I first made the Welsh international team in 1996 who I’ll be dining with tonight, as it happens. I was the youngest at 27 and those guys took me under their wing.

“The Culinary Olympics are the pinnacle of cooking. The dishes are imaginative and modern, using some of the world’s best ingredients. You become ambassadors for your country, using food such as lamb, cockles and mussels – I remember Welsh venison on one occasion – the type of fare we are renowned for.”

Yet Davies warns that the Olympic stage can quite literally be make or break: an unforgiving arena where reputations are won and lost in the pressure cooker of competition. “It’s something you’re either going to enjoy or it’s going to be too much,” he says.

“Once you get in that kitchen the pressure is intense. You’re in a glass bowl and people are watching your

skills and technique. Yes, you are competing as a member of a team, but as you’re being judged under a marking scheme, you’re competing against yourself.”

Clock ticking

For members of the Welsh Junior team, who will be taking on some of the best chefs in the world next year, the clock is ticking. A little over six months remain before the IKA/Culinary Olympics are held in Stuttgart where the 26th edition of this unique event again promises to offer competitors a more diverse, comprehensive and exciting experience than any other international competition.

Held every four years like their increasingly bloated sporting equivalent, the IKA/Culinary Olympics draw the most talented culinary artists from every corner of the globe for an unforgettable jamboree that boasts an illustrious history stretching back to 1900 – just four years after Baron Pierre de Coubertin revived the modern Olympic Games at Athens.

Nick Davies

Welsh senior team - Olympics 2012

It is not just the oldest international culinary competition, but also the biggest. The 2020 Stuttgart event drew 100,000 visitors who witnessed top-class competition from 1,800 participants drawn from 67 countries. Over four days a staggering 8,000 different menus were cooked.

Divided into different categories, talented chefs are scrutinised by an attentive jury of experts for whom creative achievements are just as important as cleanliness, hygiene and sustainability in the workplace, while in the team categories, team spirit can often mean the difference between defeat and victory.

Glass kitchens

As organisers of an event always staged in their homeland, the German Chefs’ Association provide chefs with a stage and the opportunity to showcase their potential. When the teams go for Olympic gold in the glass kitchens next February, visitors will have a ringside seat while fans from all over the world will be able to view a live TV stream.

While culinary teams compete as a squad and fight for a place on the podium in various categories (Olympic champions are crowned in the National Teams section, Junior National Teams and Community Catering Teams), individual exhibitors are left to themselves.

Following four days of high-intensity competition, the total number of points in all disciplines will determine who will secure the top step on the podium as the overall senior and junior teams winners.

And while Wales may have arrived somewhat late to the Olympic party – 1996 was the first time it entered a team for the world’s largest and most multi-faceted culinary art exhibition – a dozen talented juniors will be flying the flag in the Baden-Württemberg capital.

Golden memories

They will be seeking to emulate the 2004 achievement of their gold medal-winning predecessors whose top podium place remains unique in Welsh culinary history. “A massive achievement,” says president of the Welsh Culinary Association Arwyn Watkins, who coached the team to that fairytale win. “Some of those guys went on to become Michelin Star Chefs.”

Not surprisingly Hefin Roberts – who captained Wales to glory – also has fond memories. “Nineteen years! Where did all that time go?” he asks from one of the two restaurants he runs on Anglesey. “I vividly remember (Welsh culinary mainstay) Graham Tinsley saying he’d buy each of the team a knife if we won gold and – true to his word – he ended up buying us this batch of incredibly posh chefs’ knives!”

“Competing in an Olympics gives you a wealth of knowledge because if you stay here in little old Wales, you’re basically doing the same rounds as any other chef. We travelled all over the place, including the USA and Germany, taking in all this fabulous international cuisine. In the early days there was no internet, so all we had was cookbooks!”

This time round Wales are looking to build the foundations for future success by blooding a new generation of talent on the international stage.

“Our senior squad is having to undergo a complete rebuild which is why we only have a junior team for next year,” says Tinsley, the Culinary Association of Wales Director. “The Juniors are also in a bit of a transition period because three of our current members have reached the age limit of 25.”

This means, he explains, they either must step aside or – hopefully – graduate to the senior squad. “Time is fairly tight,” admits Tinsley. “The fact the World Cup was held in Luxembourg last November means there’s only a 14-month gap until Stuttgart.”

Looking ahead

Yet sous chef Harry Paynter-Roberts, a member of the Welsh Junior World Cup team, is already eagerly looking ahead to the Culinary Olympics of 2028. “If the World Cup is anything to go by that would be simply amazing,” he beams. “We worked so hard to get there and it was one heck of an emotional ride which passed by in the blink of an eye.”

“Being part of the Junior team was a bit like being in a family. Everyone has their own strengths and weaknesses, and the adrenalin surge is mind-blowing.”

Davies, a five-times Olympian from Llanidloes who managed the Wales senior team at Stuttgart in 2020, describes the Olympic experience as life-changing. “As a young chef I was working alongside guys quite a few years older,” he relates. “The Olympics developed my career and widened my knowledge.”

“I was travelling around the world seeing different countries’ culinary delights. When you’re competing against chefs from over thirty nations, you’re going to take lots of ideas back home with you. In retrospect, I did a lot of travelling off my own back as there was very little sponsorship, but I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

“What advice would I give our guys going to Stuttgart? I’d tell them to concentrate and take it all in while at the same time try to enjoy it as much as you can. Oh, and with all that amazing food around don’t forget to take loads of pictures!”

Wales Olympic silver 2008

Harry Paynter Roberts

Judgement Day

What does it take to judge chefs and their art at the highest level? Surprisingly, taste is only part of the equation with numerous processes and disciplines equally important to get right. We attended a Competitions seminar run by WorldChefs International Judge and Competitions Seminar Instructor, Lee Corke and the Culinary Association of Wales to find out more.

The first clue is the attire that attendees are required to wear – chef’s jacket, black trousers and shoes. It might seem a little formal, but it hints at what’s to come. Much of the seminar revolves around rules, discipline and process and reflects the classical kitchen origins of WorldChefs. But mostly it reflects the reality of working in the furnace of a busy kitchen – without rules and good organisation, chaos can ensue.

Lee talks us through the rigorous scoring system. Each team of chefs is monitored by a team of judges, who, using a standard benchmark, deduct points for errors from a maximum possible score of 100 points. A substantial 50% of the marks are based just on taste, but as taste is a very personal experience – after all some love Marmite, others hate it, a good proportion are not. There are fundamentals that most agree on –too salty, too sweet, burnt or undercooked, soggy or too hard. And yes, most of the judges, as life-long chefs working at the highest level, will have a well-developed palate, capable of assessing the finer complexities of flavour.

The remaining 50% is about process, technical ability, the visual experience and the flair of the dishes. Chefs are assessed across two broad exercises that cover the

breadth of culinary skills. The first is the Hot Kitchen emulating a restaurant environment, the second is Table on Fire, resembling a chef’s table. Rules cover many factors, including the number of chefs allowed in the kitchen, the role of assistants, portion sizes, the amount of waste and how it’s used, hygiene, tidiness, timekeeping, knife skills and more.

The criteria include a multitude of minute details –such as hygiene, cleanliness, food separation, record maintenance, correct storage, correct equipment, temperature control, and personal hygiene. It’s a long list. Other areas include Mise en Place – are all your ingredients prepared appropriately, well-organised and readily accessible? And then the menu. Is it balanced and harmonious – with minimal repetition of taste, shapes, textures, colours, ingredients and cooking methods? Dish composition – are portion sizes correct, is the protein element the right size, is it obvious what the main component is? Is the kitchen running smoothly and tidily? Do all behaviours and dishes conform to the guidelines? Judges need to know these rules inside out and be knowledgeable enough to fairly judge them. Culinary art is crucial. Does the food excite? Does it look great on the plate – colours, patterns, shapes? Does it make you want to eat it?

And all this is before we even get on to what many would consider to be the main act – taste. Are taste and texture in harmony, do ingredients complement each other, is the main ingredient accentuated, does the garnish work with the main ingredient, is it cooked and seasoned correctly, are specific and distinctive tastes preserved, what’s the aftertaste like, what was the degree of difficulty?

Additionally, judges need to be aware of wider trends, which they also score on – the rise of vegan and vegetarianism, the importance of minimising waste, and the use of sustainable products. All of this must be judged as transparently as possible, with constructive feedback consistently offered to competitors – another key skill judges must have.

Put aside all ideas you may have about how food should be judged. It isn’t just about putting great food on a plate – it’s about making sure chefs can do it day in day out, at the highest level, safely, to hundreds of diners as part of a team. The logic is brutally simple – get the fundamentals right and you increase the chances of consistently delighting your customers and keeping your employer happy. Add in flair and ability and you have something truly special. And this is what judges strive to encourage.

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Matthew Smith

When Matthew Smith was named National Chef of Wales in February at the fifth attempt such dogged persistence becomes easier to understand given his humble background, difficult schooling and a crushing setback that would have floored a less resilient character.

A talented schoolboy cricketer who won a sports scholarship to a private school attended by one Jonny Wilkinson (“The amount of practice goal-kicking that guy did was insane”), Smith’s world came crashing down when a broken collarbone ended his hopes of pursuing a career in the sport.

“Lord Wandsworth College in Hampshire was tough for a kid from a council estate who happened to be Welsh as well,” he recalls. “I only started to make progress when people there saw I was as good as them.

“But when the cricket ended so did my interest in college. When I said I wanted to do something with food, the attitude was: ‘Why have you come to boarding school then?’ I vowed to prove all of them wrong – the same attitude I adopted during my international career for Wales as it happens.

“I’m now lecturing at Cheshire South and West College in Crewe where some students come from wealthy families. I tell them that people’s backgrounds are irrelevant – once you step into that kitchen everyone is exactly the same.”

Visitors to this month’s Royal Welsh Show will have the opportunity to watch the 40-year-old dad-of-one in action during his guest slot on the Hybu Cig Cymru –Meat Promotion Wales stand on Thursday, July 27.

”It’s my wedding anniversary,” says Smith a little ruefully. “Charlotte and I were married in 2019, just before Covid hit – luckily for me she’s very understanding...

“While the Royal Welsh is obviously more farmingorientated, the food side of things in Wales has perked up and is being noticed. Gastronomy in this country has changed so much – we now have some amazing restaurants.

“The dish I will be doing at the Show will be like my main winning dish (Loin of lamb, mousseline, braised Celeriac, crispy onions, lamb neck choux tart, cheese, pomme purée, port and rosemary jus), but with a few tweaks to make it manageable within the 45-minute time frame.”

As a sports-mad teenager the Newtown-based Smith emerged from a cricketing backwater. Now he has again bucked the trend as mid-Wales is not exactly the first place gourmands look for on the culinary map.

“We call it the Sahara Desert of the culinary world,” he says. “It’s so sparsely populated and spread out that it’s very hard for young people to get jobs.”

Smith has his Devon-based grandmother to thank for his 24-year career as a chef. “She had a pub, restaurant and bakery in Axminster, now run by Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall,” he reveals. “I was trained as a baker and then one day my gran said it was time I went to France to learn some of their cooking skills – that was the start of the journey.”

Over the next few years, he travelled around Europe working in some ‘fantastic’ establishments before returning to Newtown where, in 2008, he won the Welsh Skills competition and was commis chef for National Chef of Wales winner Neil Roberts at the town’s Waggon and Horses.

“Working under Neil was phenomenal,” he remembers. “We were a good team for seven years and he’ll always be a mentor to me. I’ll always treasure the big hug he gave me for bringing home the title!”

Smith - who completed two tours with the Welsh culinary team in Luxembourg and Germany –then worked as head chef at various Mid-Wales establishments before settling at Shrewsbury’s Hawkstone Park Hotel for three years.

“There were two reasons why I became a chef,” he reflects. “Firstly, my mum couldn’t cook particularly well and, secondly, when I was in boarding school, I had a lot of time on my hands.

“I needed something to occupy myself at weekends and found myself drawn to the school kitchens. It may have seemed odd for someone of my background, but to me it seemed completely natural.”

Yes, Matthew Smith has had some journey…

Steph Belcher

Steph

could walk.

around

And while the 22-year-old junior sous chef seemingly came from nowhere to capture the Wales Junior Chef of the Year crown in February, Steph’s destiny was decided from a tender age.

“I was raised on a farm near Crickhowell by parents who were good cooks,” recalls Steph, who has worked at Pembrokeshire’s celebrated restaurant Coast at Saundersfoot for the past year.

“I was brought up on the ethos of the farmer’s table – good ingredients and home-made food. My dad’s short-crust pastry is the best ever!

“Whenever we went to the Smallholding Festival at Builth Wells I’d be given a tenner to spend and my first port of call was always the food hall.”

So Steph will be completing a circle by returning to Builth to give a demonstration at the Royal Welsh this month. “It’s sort of home from home,” she says. “And as a proud Welsh speaker I’m really honoured to have been invited.”

“I will be doing my Junior Chef main course of Welsh Beef, celeriac, cavalo nero and local vegetables from Saundersfoot because the demo is for Hybu Cig Cymru/Meat Promotion Wales and we want to showcase the Welsh beef.”

This is a young chef in a hurry. Someone constantly pushing herself. Such a gung-ho approach paid off when Steph seized the Junior Chef of Wales title at the Welsh International Culinary Championships. Having been due to represent Wales at the Global Pastry Chef Challenge North Europe heat in Italy before a late withdrawal of the Welsh team she was left kicking her heels at home and facing a stark choice.

“Do I take a holiday or enter the championships at 12 days’ notice?” she recalls. “Me being me, I naturally chose the more challenging option. And, yes, it was pretty manic!

“But I always do better under pressure. And the way these events push chefs out of their comfort zone inevitably helps them when they return to the workplace.”

She greatly values the ‘huge’ support of the Culinary Association of Wales. “I was third in the Junior Chef competition last year and on the back of that was selected for the Welsh Junior squad as a pastry chef,” she says.

“The encouragement, mentoring and guidance the CAW have given me and other young chefs cannot be over-emphasised.

“This industry is difficult to break into at any level so to have an organisation that’s willing to give time to teach as well as pushing those who are prepared to put in the hard graft is invaluable.

“We just couldn’t have got where we are without them – so much of CAW’s work goes unseen, but is really effective.”

Steph began her career under head chef Nick Brodie at Built Wells’ Llangoed Hall Hotel, at 18. “He told me I’d got the job half-an-hour after my trial finished,” she says. “I ended up working every hour under the sun. It was the steepest learning curve of my life.”

She subsequently found a job at Coast, an elegant, fine dining establishment with a formidable reputation. “Love it,” she says, without hesitation. “There’s a huge ethos in using Pembrokeshire products, with an emphasis on the sea. Pembrokeshire has phenomenal produce, second to none.”

Steph’s diary remains packed. Having won bronze and silver at the World Cup in Luxembourg, she is a semi-finalist for Young National Chef of the Year and in February will travel to Stuttgart as a member of the Wales Junior team at the Culinary Olympics.

“My goals in the last year have changed because I’ve seen what’s achievable,” she reflects.

“If the World Cup was mind-blowing then the Olympics will be stunning. I take huge pride from representing my country and an international medal would be quite something…” her voice trails off.

“But for now, the aim is to simply keep growing, keep learning and just trying to be the best I can possibly be.”

Steph Belcher’s breakneck schedule shows no signs of slowing…

Belcher grew up

food and was drawn to the hustle and bustle of a kitchen almost as soon as she

Bistrot Pierre, Mumbles

We could almost be in the French riviera. That was my first thought, as I settled into my seat on the balcony of Bistrot Pierre, in Mumbles, overlooking the shimmer of Swansea Bay on a balmy summer evening.

Set in a modernist, double height, glass building over two floors, and with the aforementioned balcony, the ambience strikes a good balance between Mediterranean airiness, Parisienne chic and provincial Gallic charm.

Our waitress, Mica, is warm and helpful, not just with us, but all the guests she’s looking after. She’s also efficient and knowledgeable and willing to admit when she’s not sure on an answer to one of our myriad questions, before checking with the chef.

To start I tucked into a generous bowl of Prawns Provençale – big, meaty, juicy and as fresh as they come King Prawns in a zingy, basil-enhanced tomato sauce, made from proper tomatoes not passata. Refreshing and delicate but intense at the same time. B’s Fricassée de Champignons was equally as impressive – the tarragon adding an earthy and deeply satisfying edge to the creamy mushrooms, satisfyingly mopped up with some crusty sourdough. All washed down with a bottle of Cuvée XXII Blancs de Blancs from Gascony – pleasantly dry with hints of apple and grapefruit it was an excellent match for our starters and the weather, and very drinkable.

For mains, on the advice of Mica, I opted for the special: a Moroccan shoulder of lamb, with honey glazed carrots and mash. In a simple red wine and lamb juice reduction, delicately seasoned and with a gentle hint of Moroccan spices, the melt in the mouth, perfectly slow-cooked lamb was allowed to shine, ably supported by sweet al dente carrots and creamy mash. B’ veggie Bourguignon was all a Bourguignon should be. Hearty, warming and deeply satisfying, thanks to root veg, chestnut mushrooms and puy lentils all steeped in a red wine jus. At this point, we went off-piste to sample the camembert mash. And what a great decision – the tangy rustic chunks of ripe creamy camembert melting into the mash was sublime. A must try!

To wrap up I finished as I started with a zesty little treat – this time a classic Tarte au Citron with Raspberry Coulis. Light, fluffy, zingy lemon custard, with a hint of vanilla on a thin, buttery crust augmented with a sharp, refreshing raspberry Coulis, it was the perfect dessert balance of sweet and sharp. B also finished on a high with a hit of intense cocoa courtesy of a Pot au Chocolate – the perfect combo of light, foamy mousse, crunchy biscuit base and luxurious chocolate.

Given the high quality of the food and service it’s staggering to think that Bistrot Pierre Mumbles is part of a chain, especially when you bear in mind it’s the star of the group in terms of number of customers and

dealing with so many covers. On offer is a top-class dining experience with authenticity, passion and joie de vivre that you only normally get in a quality independent – add in the location and it’s no wonder it’s so popular. C’est magnifique!

The Newbridge On Usk

A meandering river, a pretty old (new) bridge and rolling hills; the picture-perfect setting for a country inn. Basking in golden evening sunshine we arrived at the Newbridge on Usk, a 200-year-old inn, occupying an idyllic rural position on the banks of the river Usk. The elegant three-arched New Bridge, from which it takes its name, dates back to 1779. The inn itself, which was previously owned by the DJ Chris Evans, is now part of the Celtic Manor group. While it has a very different vibe to its big sister resort, the Newbridge

has all the attention to detail and consideration for customer comfort that we would expect from the mighty Celtic Manor.

Welcomed in by friendly staff, it was immediately clear that relaxation was at the very heart of this hostelry. Design stayed true to the rustic feel of the original building with enveloping leather sofas, wooden floors, stone walls and a feature spiral staircase rising to the galleried dining room. A light airiness was created by large picture windows, framing the stunning river views and a gentle buzz of conversation hung in the air, the restaurant pleasingly busy for a mid-week evening. While perusing the menu we nibbled on gorgeous slow-risen sourdough bread, soft with just the right amount of chew. We generously spread it with softly whipped butter, bejewelled with sparkling sea-salt flakes. I could not resist choosing the scallops to start and was rewarded with a flawlessly balanced dish. Perfectly cooked sweet scallops in a light broth with earthy mushrooms and crisp green beans. The chef knows how to let good, locally-sourced ingredients do the talking. B chose art on a plate; a summery flower of kohlrabi carpaccio, where delicate pickled petals contrasted beautifully with a creamy tarragon mayonnaise and crunchy chestnut brittle.

We again prided ourselves on our selection of mains, hay-roasted pork shoulder for me and a garden vegetable tartlet for B. At their core they may have traditional ingredients, but we marvelled at their innovative treatment and how they were presented. The tartlet was like nothing we had seen before; a vibrantly verdant, soufflé like filling nestling below the crisp biscuit base/topping – chef again playing with our expectations. The whole creation was embellished with the sharp, sweetness of fennel and onion marmalade and the softness of confit egg yolk. A symphony of flavours and textures. My pork was a delight. The meat was top-quality and of course roasted to tender perfection, nutty and biscuity, with a fully rounded porky flavour. It was brought into relief by the gentleness of creamed cauliflower, the sharp pickle and spice of the n’duja cabbage and the buttery savouriness of mash. Another triumph of culinary know how. We shared a side of sourdough crumbed, black-bomber mac ‘n’ cheese. A delicious umami riot of truffly, cheesy heaven. The Marques de Caceres Excellens Verdejo that accompanied our meal was elegantly crisp wine and possessed luscious, long-lasting flavours of flowers, peaches and apricots and a pleasing golden colour.

Our puddings were deconstructed celebrations of classic dishes. The poached strawberries, tarragon and basque cheesecake charmed me. Pavlova and Eton-mess memories, brought bang up to date. B has not stopped raving about the chocolate mousse. Rich, heavy and creamy magnificence, enhanced with crisp, chewy orange honeycomb. The meal had ended and the sun had set and yet we sat on, looking out over the river and enjoying that delightful satisfaction you only ever get from eating truly good food.