COLLiDE's Austin City Guide 2016

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AU S T IN

C I T Y

G UID E

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Featuring picks by: Okkervil River Shakey Graves ...And You Will Know Us By The Trail Of Dead Bob Schneider Nina Diaz Ben Kweller My Jerusalem Sweet Spirit Night Beats Ringo Deathstarr + more


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ARE PUBLISHER Alan Miller EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Rachael Roth ART & DESIGN Gigie Hall INTERNS Marina Williams, Gabrielle Costa

MARKETING Wes Martin, Tristen Gacoscos, Molly Kodros, Todd Apmann, Ashley Aguirre ADVERTISING West Coast East Coast Maria Sauer maria@wearecollide.com

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Established in 2014, COLLiDE is a culture agency, editorial platform, travel magazine, and international festival founded by Alan Miller, the co-founder of FILTER magazine. Travel with Purpose is a biannual printed coffee table guide covering global travel through the lens of today’s most influential bands and tastemakers.

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CultureCollide.com

TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE is published by Collide Agency LLC, 5514 Wilshire Blvd, 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA. City Guide Vol. 3, 2016. TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE is not responsible for anything, including the return or loss of submissions, or for any damage or other injury to unsolicited manuscripts or artwork. Any submission of a manuscript or artwork should include a self-addressed envelope or package of appropriate size, bearing adequate return postage. ©2016 COLLIDE AGENCY, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE IS PRINTED IN THE USA cover photo by Geoff Duncan of Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau

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C O N T E N T S 4 Welcome to Austin 6 Meet your Guides 10 The Great Outdoors 16 Dine Out 22 Landmarks 28 After Dark 34 Sounds of the City

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welcome to

Broken Spoke Dave Mead Courtesy of Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau

A U S T I N

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Known as a liberal haven in the giant red state, Austin, Texas, has been striving to keep it weird for years. The city is constantly evolving, and quickly — just look toward downtown and you’ll notice the ever-present cranes and construction. Locals contend with the city’s perceived change, which is different depending on who you ask. To some, it seems Austin has forsaken its weirdness for growth in industry, welcoming tech heads, filmmakers, and of course, musicians. During a few weeks out of the year in March, the city transforms to accommodate an array of music lovers and media enthusiasts for SXSW, but there’s a completely different side of Austin present through all other times of the year. Located in central Texas, the capital city smells of wildflowers that bloom throughout March and July and are more effervescent after a hard rain. As noted by Sweet Spirit: weed, sunscreen and barbeque infuse Austin’s air. Austin is springs and swimming holes in the summer, with taco trucks and Tex-Mex abounding, and bars and restaurants cropping up in converted houses throughout colorful, walkable neighborhoods.Whether you’re here for a festival or during the off-season, there’s plenty to do in the “blueberry in the red state.” But don’t take our word for it — we’ve asked the city’s best musicians, from Shakey Graves to Okkervil River to Bob Schneider, where the locals hang out.

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M E ET

YOU R

GUID ES

Alejandro Escovedo Originally from San Antonio, Austin-based Chicano artist Alejandro Escovedo was formerly a member of the ‘70s San Francisco punk band The Nuns, and has familial ties to Santana drummer Pete Escovedo and daughter Sheila E. Having worked with acclaimed producer Tony Visconti (David Bowie, T. Rex), you can catch Escovedo live on tour from September 17 through December 2.

Post-hardcore prog rockers ...And You Will Know Us By The Trail Of Dead formed in the late ‘90s in Hawaii. They’ve since relocated to Olympia, Washington, and Phnom Penh, Cambodia, eventually landing in their now-home of Austin, Texas. The duo-turned-four-piece has released nine studio albums to date.

Ben Kweller

Indie folk darling Ben Kweller was writing songs at age eight, and was a skilled musician by the time he was a teenager, having formed the band Radish when he was just 15. Kweller went on to tour with Death Cab for Cutie as a co-headliner, and has also gone on the road with Juliana Hatfield, Guster, and more.

Bob Schneider

Austin music scene veteran Bob Schneider was formerly a member of Ugly Americans who often opened for Dave Matthews Band, and a number of other local bands. Now a solo artist, the alt country artist is on tour now through December.

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Alejandro Escovedo/Sams-Joel Aparacio; …And You Will Know Us By The Trail of Dead/Courtney Chavanell; Ben Kweller/Kevin Baldes

...And You Will Know Us By The Trail Of Dead


Elijah Ford

Gearing up to release his new album As You Were, which he recorded in Austin’s iconic Arlyn Studios, Elijah Ford recently returned from Europe where he was a part of the festival road show Project ATX6, which selects six emerging musicians from Austin and brings their music to the world. As You Were drops on September 16.

Micah Nelson The son of Austin native and legend Willie Nelson, Micah Nelson is the guitarist, vocalist and percussionist for Insects vs. Robots, a five-piece band currently based in Venice, CA.

Elijah Ford/The Joelsons; Micah Nelson/Theo Jemison; My Jerusalem/Steve Gullick

My Jerusalem My Jerusalem says of Austin,“ Without it we’d be nothing, so it plays every part [in our music].” Formed by Jeff Klein, formerly of The Twilight Singers and The Gutter Twins, their sophomore album was recorded by Spoon drummer Jim Eno. In the past the band has toured with Courtney Love, Heartless Bastards, Spoon and others.

Night Beats

Now based in Seattle, Washington, psychedelic garage trio Night Beats — guitarist/vocalist Danny Lee Blackwell, bassist Jakob Bowden, and drummer James Traeger — grew up in Austin and Dallas, Texas. They sum up the city’s music scene by saying, “There’s always cool shows happening, and the people and venues that put them on never quit. They keep the party going.” Their third and newest album Who Sold My Generation is out now on Heavenly Recordings.

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Nina Diaz Known for her work with Girl in a Coma (named after the Smiths song, “Girlfiend in a Coma,”) which formed in 2001, Nina Diaz has since embarked on a solo career. Though Diaz was just 12 years old when she started performing with Girl in a Coma, the band caught the attention of Smiths producer Boz Boorer with whom they recorded their first demo, as well as Joan Jett, resulting into their being signed to the Blackhearts label. Diaz’s single “January 9th,” off her forthcoming album The Beat is Dead is out now.

Okkervil River

Ringo Deathstarr Founded by Elliott Frazier, who relocated to Austin from Beaumont, Texas, Ringo Deathstarr caught the attention of UK label AC30 in 2010 when they performed at the Reverence festival. The shoegazers released their latest album Pure Mood in 2015. To the band, Austin sounds and smells like “cicadas in the summertime and that specific scent just after it rains.”

Shakey Graves Alejandro Rose-Garcia AKA Shakey Graves is a former child actor turned folk troubadour. The southern americana solo artist embodies Texas in sound, and released his EP Nobody’s Fool, the follow-up to the astounding And The War Came in 2015. Catch him on tour with Gary Clark Jr. later this year.

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Nina Diaz/Jane Hernandez; Okkervil River/A Horse With No Name; Shakey Graves/Glen Brown

Raised in New Hampshire and now living in New York, Okkervil River’s Will Sheff says, “I felt like the most uptight person in Austin, but Austin slowly taught me how to loosen up and relax.” The folk rock band, also comprised of Cully Symington, Will Graefe, Benjamin Lazar Davis, and Sarah Pedinotti released their newest album Away on September 9.


Sweet Spirit Fronted by Sabrina Ellis (A Giant Dog), Sweet Spirit is a soulful rock nine-piece with strong roots in Austin. “Austin smells like weed, sunscreen and BBQ. Austin sounds like garages and storage facilities and downtown venues exploding with bass, drums, cymbals, guitars,” they tell us. Check out their latest full-length release, Cokomo. Last year the band toured with fellow Austinites Spoon.

The Sword Metal band The Sword formed in 2003, and have toured the country with the likes of ...And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Dead among others. Founded by J.D. Cronise, the band also includes guitarist Kyle Shutt, bassist Bryan Richie, and drummer Trivett Wingo. Their album High Country was released this year.

Sweet Spirit/Sean Daigle; Wild Child/Tamara Lichtensteinlo; Wildfires/Raphael Umscheid

Wild Child Alexander Beggins and Kelsey Wilson are cosongwriters, lead vocalists, and the core duo of Wild Child, who are “lucky to call Austin [their] hometown.” In addition to violin, (Kelsey) and ukulele (Alexander), the band also includes Evan Magers, Sadie Wolfe, and Matt Bradshaw, who make up their full, energetic, genre-defying sound. Their outlook on the Austin’s music scene is positive: “Everyone wants each other to succeed and is willing to help in any way possible,” they tell us.

Wildfires Taking their name from a series of natural disasters in central Texas in 2012, Wildfires is a folky, dreampop four-piece that formed in Bat City. Their EP Aguas Frescas is out now. To them, Austin is an ideal city for music lovers: “From a fan perspective, this is a heaven. You are never left wanting,” they tell us.

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T h e

g r e at

o u t d o o r s


Lady Bird Lake photo courtesy of the Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau 10


Barton Springs Pool

Lady Bird Lake

ABC Kite Festival

“I LIKE THE PEOPLEWATCHING AND PLEASANT URBAN VIEWS AT THE LADY BIRD LAKE HIKE AND BIKE TRAIL. IT’S ALWAYS BUZZING WITH AUSTINITES, AND HAS GREAT VIEWS OF THE LAKE AND THE SKYLINE FROM THE BIG BOARDWALK PART OF IT.” — WILDFIRES


“AT CO-OPS, THE COKE MACHINES WOULD BE FILLED WITH BEER, SO AFTER A GIG WE WOULD LOAD UP AND TRY AND SNEAK INTO BARTON SPRINGS POOL.”

Barton Springs Pool, Lady Bird Lake, ABC Kite Festival/Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau

— ALEJANDRO ESCOVEDO

W

arm all year round, some of the greatest activities in Austin include swimming holes, springs, and hiking trails where you can cool off and take in the city’s natural beauty. Here’s where the locals spend their time outdoors without breaking the bank.

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Hamilton Pool photo by Dave Mead

FAVORITE OUTDOOR ACTIVITY: “TOPLESS SUNBATHING. IN AUSTIN, WOMEN AND MEN HAVE EQUAL RIGHT TO APPEARING TOPLESS IN PUBLIC. NOT INDOOR, TYPICALLY, BUT IN ALL PLACES TOPLESSNESS MIGHT BE DEEMED NECESSARY: SWIMMING HOLES,PARKS, MUSIC FESTS...” —SWEET SPIRIT

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best of Hiking the Green Belt recommended by Sweet Spirit, Wild Child Bar ton Springs recommended by Alejandro Escovedo, Bob Schneider, My Jerusalem, Nina Diaz, Okkervil River ABC Kite Festival recommended by Bob Schneider Lady Bird Lake recommended by Wildfires Hamilton Pool recommended by My Jerusalem, Wildfires Emma Long Park recommended by Ringo Deathstarr

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d i n e o u t


Franklin Barbecue photo by Eric Ellis


Cenote

Ramen Tatsu-Ya

Uchiko

“RAMEN TATSU-YA: NOT ONLY DO THEY EMPLOY ME FOR THE RARE WEEKS I AM HOME BETWEEN TOURS, THEY WIN FREQUENT NATIONAL AWARDS FOR RAMEN. PEOPLE COME EVERY DAY FROM OTHER CITIES, TO FULFILL THEIR DREAM OF EATING PERFECT RAMEN.” — SWEET SPIRIT


“FLAVORS [OF AUSTIN]: WARM CORN TORTILLAS, FRIED EGGS AND BACON AND CHILES, MELTED CHEESE, STRONG HOT COFFEE. BEST COMBO IN THE WORLD.”

Cenote Coffee/Eric Pohl; Ramen Tatsu-Ya/Chris Corona; Uchiko/Erica Wilkins

— OKKERVIL RIVER

F

rom the minute you step off the plane in Austin, you can find yourself with a Ruta Maya coffee in hand, and begin to enjoy the flavors of the city. Most days here start with breakfast tacos, followed by the endless choices of barbeque and Tex Mex for lunch and dinner. Although those are the city staples, Austin is also a foodie destination with more experimental and global offerings.

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Guero’s photo courtesy of Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau

“THE TWO THINGS THAT I ALWAYS MAKE SURE PEOPLE TRY WHEN THEY COME TO TOWN ARE THE BREAKFAST TACOS AND THE BBQ, BECAUSE YOU CAN’T FIND EITHER AS GOOD AS WHAT WE’VE GOT HERE IN AUSTIN. ” — BOB SCHNEIDER

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best of Cenote recommended by Okkervil River Radio Cof fee recommended by Ben Kweller, Shakey Graves, Wild Child, Wildfires Figure 8 Cof fee recommended by ...And You Will Know Us By The Trail Of Dead, My Jerusalem, Ringo Deathstarr Uc hiko recommended by Okkervil River, Ringo Deathstarr, Wildfires Ramen Tatsu-Ya recommended by Sweet Spirit Polvo’s Mexican Restaurant recommended by Okkervil River, Shakey Graves Guero’s recommended by Alejandro Escovedo, Night Beats Veggie Heaven recommended by Nina Diaz Vespaio recommended by The Sword Franklin Barbecue recommended by Bob Schneider Chez Nous recommended by Alejandro Escovedo

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L a n d m a r ks


Texas State Capitol Building photo courtesy of the Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau


Graffiti Park at Castle Hill

Bats at Congress Ave. Bridge

Alamo Drafthouse Cinema

“WE HAVE THE LARGEST URBAN BAT POPULATION IN THE WORLD, AND THEIR BIGGEST COLONY IS RIGHT DOWNTOWN ON THE CONGRESS AVENUE BRIDGE. AT DUSK IN THE SUMMER, THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS OF BATS POUR OUT OF THE BRIDGE FOR OVER AN HOUR. LARGE GROUPS OF PEOPLE BRING BLANKETS AND WATCH IT EVERY NIGHT.” — WILDFIRES


“I LOVE CASTLE HILL WHICH IS A PARK WHERE ANYONE CAN COME AND SPRAY PAINT WHATEVER THEY WANT. IT’S A LIVING, BREATHING, ALWAYS CHANGING PIECE OF ARTWORK.”

Graffiti Park at Castle Hill, Bats at Congress Ave. Bridge, Alamo Drafthouse Cinema/ Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau

— BEN KWELLER

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o see the sights in Austin you need to know where — and when — to look. One of its most distinctive features is the bats under the Congress Avenue Bridge, earning Austin one of its many nicknames, Bat City. Our guides clue you into the coolest landmarks under the surface.

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End of an Ear Records

“RIGHT AFTER YOU GO TO POLVO’S YOU CAN STUMBLE INTO END OF AN EAR. THEY GOT SOME GREAT SHIT MAN...THEIR RARE RECORDS ARE REALLY INTERESTING AND THEIR SUGGESTIONS ARE SPOT ON.” — SHAKEY GRAVES

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best of Texas State Capitol Building recommended by Wildfires Peter Pan Mini Golf recommended by Ben Kweller, Okkervil River Alamo Draf thouse Cinema recommended by Ben Kweller Graf fiti Park at Castle Hill recommended by Ben Kweller, My Jerusalem, Sweet Spirit Torc hy’s Tacos recommended by Micah Nelson Bar ton Creek Greenbelt recommended by ...And You Will Know Us By The Trail Of Dead, Elijah Ford, Micah Nelson, Night Beats, Sweet Spirit, Wild Child, Wildfires Blue Hanger Goodwill recommended by Wild Child Bats at Congress Ave. Bridge recommended by Bob Schneider, Wildfires Emma Long Park recommended by Ringo Deathstarr Laguna Gloria Galler y at Contemporar y Austin recommended by Sweet Spirit End of an Ear Records recommended by Okkervil, Ringo Deathstarr, Shakey Graves, Sweet Spirit, Wildfires Waterloo Records recommended by Alejandro Escovedo, ...And You Will Know Us By The Trail Of Dead, Bob Schneider, Sweet Spirit, Wildfires 27


A f t e r D a r k


Qui photo by Bonjwing Lee


Mohawk

The White Horse

Justine’s

“JUSTINE’S HAS A GREAT OLD FASHIONED.” — ELIJAH FORD 30


QUI MAKES A COCKTAIL NAMED AFTER THE OKKERVIL RIVER SONG “ON TOUR WITH ZYKOS” SO I GOTTA GO WITH THAT ONE. CREATED BY JUSTIN ELLIOTT.

The White Horse/Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau; Justines/Ann Hanks - CC Flickr

— OKKERVIL RIVER

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argaritas, Topo Chico, and spicy micheladas: these are the flavors of Austin’s bar scene. Stumble into any dive and you’re bound to find a happy hour special there. See what the locals choose for their go-to neighborhood bars, plus their drinks of choice.

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Hotel Vegas photo by Stephen Rudd

BAR AND DRINK OF CHOICE: “A SHOT OF WHISKEY, HOTEL VEGAS.” — ...AND YOU WILL KNOW US BY THE TRAIL OF DEAD

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best of Qui recommended by Okkervil River Hoover ’s Cooking recommended by Sweet Spirit Saxon Pub recommended by Bob Schneider Cheer Up Charlie’s recommended by Wild Child Donn’s Depot recommended by My Jerusalem The Yellow Jac ket recommended by Wildfires King Bee recommended by Ringo Deathstarr Olican Harr y’s recommended by Micah Nelson Justine’s recommended by Elijah Ford The White Horse recommended by Night Beats Cedar Door recommended by Alejandro Escovedo Casino South recommended by Shakey Graves

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S o u n d s of the city


ACL Live at the Moody Theater photo courtesy of the Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau


Stubb’s

Mohawk

Hotel Vegas

“AUSTIN HAS ALWAYS BEEN THE KIND OF TOWN WHERE, EVEN ON A MONDAY NIGHT, THERE ARE AT LEAST 100 BANDS PLAYING SOMEWHERE. ON THE WEEKEND THAT NUMBER CAN EASILY JUMP TO 1,000.” — THE SWORD


“THERE’S A LOT OF QUALITY MUSIC BEING MADE. THERE ARE POCKETS OF PUNK ROCK, GARAGE ROCK, PSYCH, AMERICANA, BLUES, ELECTRONIC, AND HIP-HOP EVERYWHERE. IT’S REALLY A MELTING POT.” — MY JERUSALEM

Stubb’s/Denise Chambers; Mohawk/Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau; Hotel Vegas/Dustin Downing

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s home to musicians like the Dixie Chicks and Willie Nelson, as well as the SXSW festival in March, Austin is well-known as a musical epicenter. Important venues exist here, from small clubs like Hole in the Wall where artists like Shakey Graves and Alejandro Escovedo got their start, to the notable Hotel Vegas, which Sweet Spirit says has a Max’s Kansas City vibe. Take home a piece of the music with you by snagging some vinyl at record shop staples like End of an Ear and Waterloo. 37


The Paramount photo courtesy of Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau

“THERE IS SO MUCH TALENT NEW AND OLD IN AUSTIN. I’M ALWAYS SURPRISED AT HOW MANY BANDS CALL AUSTIN THEIR HOME...WHAT’S GREAT IS EVERYONE IN THE SCENE IS SO SUPPORTIVE. EVERYONE WANTS EACH OTHER TO SUCCEED AND IS WILLING TO HELP IN ANY WAY POSSIBLE.” — WILD CHILD

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best of Hole in the Wall recommended by Alejandro Escovedo, Night Beats, Okkervil River Hotel Vegas recommended by Night Beats, Ringo Deathstarr, Sweet Spirit, Wildfires The Scoot Inn recommended by Wild Child Mohawk recommended by ...And You Will Know Us By The Trail Of Dead, Night Beats, Nina Diaz, Wildfires Moody Theater recommended by ...And You Will Know Us By The Trail Of Dead, Nina Diaz, My Jerusalem, The Sword, Wildfires C-Boy’s Hear t & Soul recommended by Shakey Graves The Paramount recommended by Elijah Ford Stubb’s recommended by Ben Kweller, The Sword SpiderHouse recommended by Micah Nelson Nutty Brown recommended by Bob Schneider

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