ORIENTAL FOOD LIFE by CURRY LIFE MAGAZINE

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CONTENTS PEACOCK IS THE PERFECT CIDER RANGE SOLUTION

HONGKONG FOODIES Nestling beneath the bustling Canary Wharf tower - but with calming waterfront views across London’s Docklands - there can be few more impressive locations to enjoy a Chinese meal than that offered by the Royal China Riverside.

Nep Nep - a must try for traditional Pho

When Londoners think of eating Vietnamese, they naturally default to Shoreditch where Kingsland Road boasts “Pho Mile”. They may also fancy the many Vietnamese eateries in Hackney.

IMMIGRATION WOES HIT CHINATOWN

Architectural splendour of Imperial India

The British had a lasting impact on Indian architecture, as they saw themselves as the successors to the Mughals and used architecture as a symbol of power.

Raids in London’s Chinatown have left the community feeling targeted and hope the Home Office will be able to address their problem related to immigration policies 1

EDITORIAL

FULL OF EASTERN PROMISE! Welcome to the first edition of Oriental Food Life – a new magazine designed to cover the exciting and ever-changing world of Middle and Far Eastern cuisine. Whatever your interest in Oriental and Eastern food – whether you’re a restauranteur, chef, supplier to the industry or simply someone who enjoys good food – there will be something here to whet your appetite. This inaugural issue covers everything from hot news items, like our cover story highlighting the impact of immigration raids on London’s Chinatown, to food trends such as the growth in popularity of vegetarian and vegan dishes. There are also numerous items designed to help spread best practice across the sector, including reviews of restaurants who are at the cutting edge of the recent rise in popularity of Oriental food, and coverage of training programmes aimed at boosting standards. All of the various aspects of Oriental food are covered, including Thai, Dim Sum, traditional and modern Chinese cooking – as well as features on the

characters behind their development. And in future we’d like to spread the net even further, to take in the whole fascinating panoply of different cuisines, and cooking techniques, stretching across the Middle and Far East. That means including sections on Turkish, Lebanese and other Middle Eastern fare, so popular in the UK, as well as food from China, Japan, Thailand, Indonesia and all points east. Please let us know what you think about this first issue – which comes from the same stable as the popular Curry Life magazine – and tell us what you’d like to see in forthcoming editions. See the separate Food For Thought ad if you would like your restaurant to be considered for a review in future. You can get in touch with us in a number of ways – by telephone

In the meantime, please enjoy this initial issue of Oriental Food Life.

News & Feature Editor

Ritika Gupta

Cover photo: Jungle Beef Ribs Courtesy of Thai Square

NEWS

IMMIGRATION WOES HIT

CHINATOWN Raids in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chinatown have left the community feeling targeted and hope the Home Office will be able to address their problem related to immigration policies RITIKA GUPTA Monday, September 23, marked the annual Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival, also popular as Moon Fest in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chinatown. A day earlier, the streets were bustling with people who were treated to a showstopping opening ceremony with lion dances, marital arts displays, accompanied by live Chinese music. Making for a perfect event for the entire family, there were plenty of activities to keep kids amused -- face painting, lantern-making and storytelling sessions about the legends of the Mid-Autumn Festival as well as a drawing and card making sessions for parents who wrote their wishes to the Moon Goddess. Going back two months ago, those streets were not

NEWS on Chinese social media sites. In the video, a woman was seen in front of the immigration official’s van, which moved along causing panic to onlookers, who helped her out of the way. According to reports, the woman was an elderly lady, who is deaf and was trying to plead with the officers not to detain the worker, who apparently is from the same village as her. The LCCA, which organised the demonstration, said more than 100 restaurants had been in touch to show support and solidarity. Businesses criticize the raids are conducted “too often” and without any warrant or notice, and that disrupts their business for the day and intimidates owners and customers. “We have received several complaints that the Home Officials who come for raids are often very aggressive and intimidating. They not only treat the staff rudely, but also shout at customers and some of these raids don’t even lead to any arrests. Customers at the restaurant get scared and disturbed. Service is disrupted and people walking past get an impression that something is certainly wrong with the restaurant,” the LCCA confirmed.

the same. On July 24, Chinatown had closed it doors to diners and visitors from noon to 5pm in protest of a government clampdown on illegal immigration. Restaurateurs, chefs, waiters, shop owners and members

of the Chinese business community marched to the Home Office in Westminster calling for an end to the ‘hostile’ behaviour towards migrant workers and what they described as the ‘criminalisation of communities’.

The LCCA’s main complaints are that the raids often take place without a warrant, and at peak hours when business is brisk. The officers are often heavy handed, aggressive and rude, they claim. The Home Office, meanwhile, says officers can enter business premises under a variety of lawful powers including when a warrant is issued, and also if the authority of an immigration enforcement assistant director is given. Joseph Wu, spokesperson of the London Chinatown Chinese Association (LCCA) confirmed: "We are striking to demonstrate the frustration and anger of the community towards the increasing and unfair immigration raids on a growing number of restaurants.” The five-hour shutdown resulted meant losing time and business for the day. “It’s a painful decision as each hour we could be making money and as a small business, every hour lost is equal to lost income, but there’s consensus about it,” Wu explained. The community also believes they are being seen as an ‘easy-target’, with raids not always being ‘intelligence-led’. “When raid officers visit in large numbers with police, the environment itself becomes very tense and intimidating. We don’t feel this is the right approach and our community is being made an easy-target,” he said.

As for the arrests on the day of the incident, of the 5 people, 3 were released days later. Ahead of the protests, pamphlets had been distributed in the community, some of which made its way to few Chinatown restaurants doors and entrances, questioning the legality of the Joy Luck restaurant incident. “Why did the raid take place after a roundtable meeting instigated by immigration officials to engage with the community and to build trust?” “Not only were staff member at the restaurant treated with unreasonable aggression and handcuffed, a deaf and mute woman who started a peaceful protest by lying on the road was manhandled and nearly run over by an immigration van,” it said. Chinese business leaders and restaurateurs believe that rampant raids cause more harm to legal migrants than illegal ones. “The hostile environment does not affect the illegal immigrant as much as it affects the industry as a whole – legal migrants as well. All migrants felt very undermined by the whole process, ” said Wu.

Raids ignite protests In the first week of July, there was a clash between protesters and officers after footage of a raid at Joy Luck restaurant in which five men were held went viral

NEWS

"We are concerned about the image this incident will create for Chinatown where the people have been working hard to change it from a rundown area into an international landmark, with high-quality Chinese cuisine," Wu added. According to reports, a Home Office spokesman stated:

Cooperation with local police and Home Office Tensions have been running high in the community ever since the raid and protest.The police have been setting up regular meetings with the community leaders to

A spokesperson from the Home Office rejected claims that immigration officers are carrying out ‘fishing exercises’ referring to the raids in the area. He said: “Immigration enforcement visits are all intelligence-led and conducted using lawful powers.” The official added that enforcement teams visited businesses in Chinatown seven times in the first six months of 2018, with 19 people found to be working or living there illegally. “While we respect the public’s right to protest, it is important that any demonstrations do not obstruct our officers from carrying out their lawful business.” A spokesperson from the Home Office rejected claims that immigration officers are carrying out ‘fishing exercises’ referring to the raids in the area. He said: “Immigration enforcement visits are all intelligence-led and conducted using lawful powers.” The official added that enforcement teams visited businesses in Chinatown seven times in the first six months of 2018, with 19 people found to be working or living there illegally. The LCCA’s main complaints are that the raids often take place without a warrant, and at peak hours when business is brisk. The officers are often heavy handed, aggressive and rude, they claim. The Home Office, meanwhile, says officers can enter business premises under a variety of lawful powers including when a warrant is issued, and also if the authority of an immigration enforcement assistant director is given.

understand their grievances. The police say they were misinformed about the situation and were told to treat it “as a major incident”, almost giving it a riot status. With police intervention and assurance from the Home Office to carry out an independent investigation, all is not lost for the community.The committee will be meeting the Home Office mid October where they can expect some clarity on the matter. The investigation has been taking up time but the emotional factor in the community is so strong that they don’t want to leave any stone unturned. Their requests to the Home Office are: • Explain the code of conduct – Some important questions such as are officials supposed to be shouting at people? Do they need to show their ID? Shouldn’t they explain what they are doing? Tell people who they are, show their ID. Anyone could dress and pretend to be an officer and that is a very dangerous thing. There must be a proper procedure and we know what are the procedures.

NEWS • Want to clarify the position of operation without a warrant - Home Office operation requires a warrant unless there’s an exceptional circumstance – where there is immediate danger or criminal activities taking place. A warrant is not required if the restaurant owner invites them in. • The Home Office should apologise for the event that took place, as it was totally uncalled for.There should be a more professional way and a proper system to supervise and monitor to check and balance.

retire, their children don’t want to go back to the industry. So they are left with no choice but to employ someone else or shut their business. These are micro and nano businesses and they don’t have the financial clout to bring someone in. For sponsorship, you have to meet criteria and match the salary as laid out by Home Office. The downside is larger than we can imagine - not just small business bare the brunt but large multinational companies from China find it difficult to match the criteria. They can pay the high rate of London, planning commission but bringing staff becomes a huge challenge. According to Chinese media, many businessmen have withdrawn projects from the country. There is a common misconception about the variety in Chinese food. While Cantonese food is most popular, there are other parts of China, which have their own specialties mostly categorised as Shandong, Sichuan, Hunan, Guangdong (Cantonese), Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Anhui and Fujian. They vary in taste as some are sweet and braised, some mild, some spicy, while some can be mouth numbing. Jerry Ho, Manager of Bang Bang Oriental Food Hall, believes that to keep the culture intact, there is a need for authentic chefs. “Some skills cannot be taught or learnt in days. It is part of the culture and everyday life. If you have to teach someone about different tastes, it will take them years to master it. On the contrary, someone who has lived and been brought up in

Points to ponder Rampant raids are not the only concern the industry is battling at the moment. There are few points the Chinese community wish to convey to the Home Office on immigration rules. Mr Chu Ting Tang OBE, Chairman of London Chinatown Chinese Association (LCCA) said: “There is a huge shortage of staff in the Chinese food industry, which has led to many restaurants closing down permanently.This comes at a time when there is a huge influx of Chinese businessmen, tourists and students coming into the country, increasing the demand for Chinese cuisine. And if we are not able to cater for that, it does not reflect very well on London and the UK.” About 10 years ago London had specialty restaurants serving various Chinese cuisines but with laws tightened, it is no longer feasible to bring in chefs. There are two problems - language barrier and salary bracket.

Common issue across food & catering industry In 2014, the UK introduced a new Tier-2 immigration policy, which stated chefs from non-EU countries who work in the Britain have to make a minimum salary of about £30,000 a year. This has caused a stir across multiple restaurant and catering businesses in the country. Mr Chu Ting Tang OBE, Chairman of London Chinatown Chinese Association (LCCA) said: “To sustain the industry, the immigration policy should be made slightly more flexible, catering to the scale of business. If restaurants in Chinatown start shutting down, the losses faced will not

only hamper business owners, but also affect the UK economy.” “We want to make sure that Chinatown doesn’t disappear. It is a cultural landmark and can continue to innovate only if we have the right kind of chefs and supporting kitchen staff.” The government has suggested hiring local talent. But the complexity of Chinese cuisine proves otherwise. "The idea to train up local people is good but it takes years for someone to understand what Chinese food is, let alone pick up the skills,” says the LCCA Chairman.

As most chefs are Chinese speaking and as they choose this career, they don’t go to university, or even high school. They start as an apprentice therefore face the language barrier. To demand them to speak English to engage with the wider community is not possible – there must be other ways to adjust to that issue rather than making it one of the main criteria. Regarding salary, the set structure is slightly distorted, as it does not classify differently for takeaways and five star restaurants. Most Chinese restaurants are family-run and when the parents

that culture, knowing about the different tastes, will just need to excel in techniques, which he/she might already be gifted with.”With an aim to keep the ambience lively in Chinatown, and help the community thrive, the association is doing all it can to make it count. They are keen on not only reaching out to the other members of the community, but also to other communities to make the voices stronger, urging the government to review the rules and help sustain multiculturalism through the food industry.

NEWS

Chinese culinary diploma brings ray of hope to struggling industry

The year-long Diploma in Chinese Culinary Arts is seen as a measure to secure the Chinese restaurant industry's future which is battling against tight immigration policies. In a bid to cope up with shortage of chefs in Chinese restaurants, a new course focusing on Chinese cuisine has been launched in the United Kingdom. The one-year diploma in Chinese Culinary Arts is backed by the Chinese Cuisine Association and Tianjin Food Group while assessments will be conducted in Crawley College, a part of the Chichester College Group. Crawley College believes the course is not only looking to provide career opportunities in the catering industry but also providing the Chinese restaurant owners with a supply of chefs locally saving them the hassle of recruiting from China.

Currently, most Chinese chefs are employed from overseas with owners using recruitment agents to find chefs willing to relocate to the UK but the expenses incurred are massive. The 2014 new tier-2 immigration policy stated chefs from non-EU countries who work in Britain have to make a minimum salary of £30,000 pounds a year. The course, which is a combination of online learning and practical assessments including weekly webinars, targets current and aspiring chefs in the catering industry who wish to enhance their skills and forge a successful career path in this sector. Topics include the origin and development of Chinese food culture, how to prepare and cook Chinese hot and cold dishes, and the development of skills for cutting, shaping and presentation. The course, which is equivalent to A-level and follows Lu Ban workshop principles,

has received significant inward investment from China and is managed by Coventry-based PAM Education and run in conjunction with Chichester College Group and Tianjin Second School of Cuisine Food Group. Russell Grocott, PAM Education founder and director, said: "Our work has escalated from what started as the design of an education program into a mission to reintroduce authentic Chinese Culinary Arts across the UK. Our program provides budding Chinese chefs and restaurant owners with the opportunity to learn skills and gain a regulated qualification recognized world-wide supported by the finest Master Chefs based in China." Julie Kapsalis, managing director (commercial) for the Chichester College Group, said: "The project has great potential for students and tutors at Crawley College and in China to learn from each other and to develop new skills. Working closely with international educational institutions is important to Crawley College and to the Chichester College Group as a whole - we want to see the group develop at home and abroad." Geoffrey Yeung, founder of British Chinese Food Awards, said: “The course is an excellent opportunity to fully showcase the history and heritage of Chinese culture through all our human senses, which should hopefully make it an immersive and enjoyable experience. “

PRODUCTS NEWS

PEACOCK IS THE PERFECT CIDER RANGE SOLUTION

KBE Drinks recently launched Peacock Cider, a cider brand created specifically to pair with all Asian food, from Chinese, Thai to Vietnamese.The launch brought an opportunity for the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 12,500 Asian restaurants to capitalise on the growing popularity of cider with UK consumers. Created in collaboration with cider experts Aspall, Peacock Apple Cider and Peacock Mango & Lime Cider are easy to drink ciders that have been designed to complement the vast flavours across all Asian foods, providing a burst of refreshment to balance aromatic spices. A premium product offering, both variants contain 100% fresh pressed culinary and bittersweet cider apples. Celebrated across Asia, the Peacock was the natural emblem for the brand design. Not only is it the national bird of India, Peacocks

roam wild in China and symbolise love and kind heartedness in Japan. The distinct packaging aims to encapsulate the vibrant colours of countries across Asia from China to Indonesia. The product launch was a response to an increasing consumer demand for cider, an opportunity which is currently untapped in the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Asian restaurant segment, with 38% of restaurants not currently selling cider in any format. As well as category growth, market research* underlines the appetite for the brand, with 73% of consumers saying they would choose a cider with Asian food and 97% of cider consumers saying they would drink an Asian cider if available. Peacock Apple and Mango & Lime Cider is currently available to the on-trade in 12 x 500ml cases. For further information, please contact info@peacockcider.co.uk.

NEWS

Old charm Yuet Ben in Liverpool closes for refurbishment Renowned Chinese restaurant Yuet Ben, that also happens to be one of the oldest in Liverpool, is shutting its doors temporarily for refurbishment. Located on Upper Duke Street, Yuet Ben has been serving locals and celebrities since 1968. Shandong-born Yuh Ho opened this Beijing-style restaurant, which saw popular faces including Cliff Richard, Dawn French and Les Dennis. His daughter Theresa Lim and son-in-law Chef Terry Lim now run the establishment. Footballers Jamie Redknapp, David James, Steve McManaman, Robbie Fowler and Jason McAteer, have also dined in the restaurant post training. The family-run restaurant shot to fame after it was featured on a

cooking show that was broadcast across the world. It maybe noted that earlier this year Yuet Ben celebrated its 50th year in business and the owners feel it is the right time now to get the renovations done. "Many of my customers have heard rumours that I’m retiring or selling the business - so I’d just like to reassure them that I’ll be back but with a new refurbishment,” 63year-old Terry said. “The floors and walls have been there since 1978, that’s a long time. And although most of my regulars say they don’t want any change and that they come for the food and not the interior, it does need a face lift,” he added. "We are closed now but we will be continuing, hopefully in two months time."

Expansion plans in the pipeline for York’s Bamboo Thai restaurant A Thai takeaway and noodle bar in York is moving to larger premises a couple of doors down, promising diners more space and less waiting time. Bamboo Thai on Hull Road has requested the planning permission to convert the former Automoney store into a restaurant and takeaway. This will not only allow more diners, but will also accommodate more kitchen staff. Owner Alex Keogh emphasises the new set up will see the ground floor converted into a 40-seater restaurant with three booths along the wall and a separate takeaway counter at the front of the building. The restaurant will also have a 16-seat function room for private

events and parties. As per the plan, the new site will have five parking spaces at the rear as well as parking for bikes. “It will be a nice restaurant with a nice relaxed atmosphere. We are going to have it very authentic, with bespoke handmade tables and chairs. We got quite lucky that this place came up," said Keogh. According to the planning documents: "The current customer base consists mainly of locals and students living along the Hull road area." "This would give them a healthy place to sit and eat and meet with friends. The proposed development would be open 6/7 days a week from 11.30am to 10.30pm at the latest.”

"The existing site at 17b Hull road is often frequented by families who have introduced their children to Thai food and helped improve their diets. This enables families to enjoy a good meal together in a casual atmosphere." Bamboo Thai opened in February 2013.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

HONG KONG FOODIES

estling beneath the bustling Canary Wharf tower - but with calming waterfront views across London’s Docklands - there can be few more impressive locations to enjoy a Chinese meal than that offered by the Royal China Riverside. With room for at least 80 diners along the waterfront - and even more space inside - the restaurant is a magnet for the thousands working in the burgeoning nearby financial district, as well as casual passing trade looking for a leisurely lunch or evening meal. Part of the famous Royal China group of restaurants, the Riverside incarnation specialises in Hong Kong cuisine, as opposed to Cantonese dishes, and also boasts a popular Dim Sum menu.

Keen to sample both traditional and speciality fare, and to pace ourselves, we started off with a quarter of crispy aromatic duck with the usual trimmings. What we were served was more than ample, so I’m not sure we could have managed the half or full duck versions, though adjacent tables were clearly enjoying larger helpings of the dish. Our plate avoided some of the common pitfalls associated with aromatic crispy duck. It was well cooked, so wasn’t too dry, and maintained a good heat throughout while we were chatting. That meant we didn’t feel the need to rush to avoid finishing with cold, hard to swallow duck, which can sometimes be a problem. The next course presented a bit more of a

RESTAURANT REVIEW challenge. We wanted try out the restaurant’s much vaunted Dim Sum selection. But there was such a huge choice available that we wanted to be sure of sampling some signature dishes, while also getting the right blend of flavours. We needn’t have worried. A brief consultation with a waitress, who was patience personified given that she was up to her eyes in a very hectic lunchtime service, put us on the right road. For the main course, she suggested a mixture of Dim Sum together with a more traditional dish. The dumplings we selected with her help from the Dim Sum menu included prawn and chives and ‘supreme vegetarian’ - set off by a rice wrap in oyster sauce plus one of the poultry dishes accompanied by steamed rice. Our sautéed chicken with steamed seasonal vegetables, in a very light gravy-like sauce, was beautifully cooked and went well with the rice. The different Dim Sums also complemented each other very well. The stars for us were definitely the succulent prawn dumplings. Having demolished our first two courses we were

given a well earned rest before picking a desert from an afters menu, which belied the common myth that Chinese restaurants don’t do sweets very well. The choice ranged from a fresh fruit platter to almond tofu with fruit cocktail, not to mention fresh mango and grapefruit tapioca. Given the range of dishes available, the location and the attentive service, the price represented valuefor-money, with our meal coming in at around £40 a head. There are also various set menus for around the same price. Set seven-course tasting menus are available at all Royal China restaurants - at Baker Street, Bayswater and Fulham as well as Canary Wharf. All Royal China restaurants have the same à la carte menus although each dedicates a full page to signature dishes created by the restaurant’s individual Head Chefs. These dishes are changed frequently, while the seasonal dishes are changed four times a year. ~ Royal China Riverside is a 30 Westferry Circus, London E14 8RR. Tel: 020 7719 0888. www.royalchinagroup.co.uk

RESTAURANT REVIEW

He Cheng Kuan, Owner of Bao Fa Garden

RESTAURANT REVIEW

BAO FA

SO GOOD! L

ook up a Chinese dictionary and the term Bao Fa is defined as ‘to get rich or prominent’. That’s ironic in the case of He Cheng Kuan – owner of the Bao Fa Garden restaurant – because it was his love of authentic Chinese food, and a desire to find a stunning location, rather than pure profit, that was his prime motivation when opening his restaurant eight years ago. He explains: “Bao Fa is actually an extremely old northern Chinese brand, going back over a hundred years, and it was this tradition of wonderful Chinese cuisine, with a modern twist, that I wanted to reflect in the name. “The position of the restaurant was also extremely important to me – and that’s why we chose a prime waterfront location in central London so that diners could enjoy good food in exceptional surroundings,”adds Mr Kuan, who developed his love of Chinese cuisine in his Manchurian homeland before settling in the UK. Based on our visit, Mr Kuan has succeeded on both counts. Situated on the South Bank at County Hall, a stone’s throw from the London Eye, the restaurant boasts wonderful views across the Thames to Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. The view can be seen from almost all of the

RESTAURANT REVIEW accompaniments are available). If you have room after the first two or three courses, there’s a wide choice of desserts available – from Chinese Style Bombolone stuffed with peanut butter and wolfberry and osmanthus jelly to an ‘exotic’ mousse and mandarin soufflé. Prices are reasonable for such a prime location with great views in central London, with our meal coming in at around £30 a head. There are also set, lunch and pre-theatre menus as well as the a la carte version. All in all, the Bao Fa Garden definitely lives up to the targets set by owner He Cheng Kuan. As he says himself: “Having a great Chinese meal is about so much more than good food, although that its important of course. “It is meant to be an enjoyable, social occasion – where the diners can relax and expect excellent service in great surroundings.” Based on our experience, the Bao Fa Garden succeeds on all counts. - The Bao Fa Garden is in the County Hall Building, The Queen’s Walk, London SE1 7PB Tel 020 7261 1196 Email: info@baofagarden.co.uk www.baofagarden.co.uk

He Cheng Kuan and Baofa chef YongDong Huang

tables, with prime position being a table next to one of the large windows overlooking the gardens and waterfront which are brilliantly lit at night. The food also lives up to the ‘traditional with a modern twist’ tag, appealing to both Chinese clientele and less ambitious diners who just enjoy a good Chinese meal alike. So there’s a version of the traditional crispy aromatic duck that it sweetened with honeydew melon and spare ribs in a special WuXi sweet and sour sauce. There are also good old British eaters’ favourites such as Chicken in black bean sauce, sizzling beef, stirfried lamb and a wide range of fish dishes. Plus the full range of vegetarian, rice and noodle dishes. Falling under the latter category, we started off with chicken and corn soup which was nicely flavoured with ample amounts of both key ingredients. That was followed by a Dim Sum platter, comprising a selection of tasty meat, fish and vegetable dumplings. But the highlight was the squirrel seabass, which involves no harm to squirrels but takes its name from the shape of the fish once all the meat is extracted and placed in the middle of the dish. Beautifully cooked in a sweet and sour sauce, the fish was both tender and tasty and nicely accompanied by a selection of steamed vegetables (other

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

Arty ambience, delightful food makes

Yuu Kitchen A SOLID WINNER

horeditch is a hub to the creative sector - a home to graffiti, street art and edgy art galleries. It is a hip and a vibrantly multicultural area of East London. So when you step into Yuu Kitchen you might get a strong impression that former Nobu and Zaferrano Chef Jon de Villa wanted to pull that energy and cultural fusion right into his restaurant. We were shown to our seats at the bar facing the open kitchen. Our senses were gently serenaded by cool ambient music and the aromas emanating from two “big green egg” barbecues. We ordered from an easily comprehensible tapas menu divided into three sections. Easy on the eye but tummyrumbling in what it promised. Indeed the menu proclaims flavours from South-East Asia and the Pacific rim. And you eat it in a space with Manga artwork on the walls and stylish bird cages hanging from the ceiling. It is an absorbing atmosphere, and arguably perfect for Jon’s whimsical menu First up, grilled broccoli. Yes it is true that broccoli does not enjoy the status of cauliflower, which has been quite the on-trend vegetable for some time and is even passing itself off as T-Bone steaks these days. But we put those negatives aside and tried this dish. No brassica has ever been as deliciously crafted as this. The secret may be the apple and onion dressing. The chef explained how apples are squeezed without their skin and blended with other ingredients and spices. It is this that raises this dish from being one which would be damned by the broccoli-hating 41st US President, George H W Bush, to something he might have liked to

RESTAURANT REVIEW have nibbled on whilst on his jaunts in Air Force One. Similarly the Lechon Kawali, a quintessentially Filipino dish, is given a Yuu Kitchen twist and served with a tasty Mama Sita sauce. The crispy thin crackling of the 12- hour braised pork belly overlays tender and moist meat. This is one of their signature dishes and an absolute must-try. There is plenty for the pescatarian. The Baby Octopus Karaage needs a special mention here. This is not your deep fried calamari served with a dollop of tartar sauce. These are whole baby octopus, crispy and perfectly seasoned, sitting on a bed of cucumber and wakame salad soaked through with a delicious ginger garlic sauce. Again their sauce. Again that zing. And you end up with a dish that mixes temperatures, textures and flavours. We were hooked at first bite. The short mojito and drinks menu are perfectly complementary. The Oolong Mojito, served in a teapot yes thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right - is a perfect palate cleanser. The helpful and knowledgeable staff advise 4 or 5 tapas dishes per person. This is good advice, as one should make room for their take on the humble fritter and ice-cream. And once you have tried Yuu Kitchenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s velvety and smooth coconut icecream along with the crunchy spring roll desert, there is only just one East London word that describes it all Blimey!

Yuu Kitchen is Tapas-style catering for vegetarians and carnivores in a beautiful setting with plenty of textures and flavours. Its informality makes it a great place to chill and is perfect for a variety of occasions. Asian fusion can be hit and miss sometimes but this place is a solid winner. 29 Commercial Street, London, E1 6NE instagram: https://www.instagram.com/yuu_kitchen/ web: https://www.yuukitchen.com/

VEGAN EATING

Vegans and Protein

MYTHBUSTING

Photo courtesy of Stem + Glory

VEGAN EATING By Louise Palmer-Masterton

source to food source and those found in food also vary from those that make up our own body parts. When you eat protein, your digestive system breaks it down into amino acids, which are then absorbed into the bloodstream. The acids then build the proteins that make up your muscles, organs and tissues. Not all aminos are ‘essential’ but there are nine aminos that the body cannot manufacture which are essential and have to be consumed for optimum health. Animal-based proteins contain all nine essential amino acids, which makes them complete proteins, but it is not actually necessary to eat one food that contains everything. Combining plant foods results in complete protein and gives exactly the same result nutritionally. The essential amino acids are histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan and valine. To give some examples of successful combining, grains are lacking in lysine, beans are high in lysine therefore combining these two foods gives a perfect amino acid balance. So, grains and legumes are therefore known as complementary proteins. ‘Rice and beans’ is fairly commonly known as a complete meal. But lesser known is that nuts and seeds together with legumes are also complementary proteins. Humus is a good example of a complete protein - chickpea (legume) +

founder, Stem + Glory

One of the biggest concerns for people switching to a vegan diet is proteins. Are they going to get enough? The short answer is; yes. The strongest and largest of our animals on this planet are 100% herbivores. Civilization has been reliant upon herbivores, by way of horses, oxen and elephants, which have great strength and stamina for work, for thousands of years. They get enough protein from plants – and so can we. Everything we eat has a protein element to it and really, as long as your plant-based diet is varied, it will contain all the protein you need, including the full spectrum of amino acids. Almost every food source contains an element of protein - including all vegetables. Peas, kale, broccoli, mushrooms, asparagus are particularly good protein sources as, of course, are beans, lentils, nuts and seeds. The protein question really boils down to the amino acid question. All proteins, animal or plant, are made up from amino acids. But the number and order differs from food

VEGAN EATING tahini (sesame seed). Other successful full spectrum amino food pairing tips include: • One pot dishes including grains and legumes together • Salads including beans together with nuts and seeds • Nut butter sandwiches on wholegrain bread • Tofu or tempeh and vegetables with nuts (with or without brown rice, buckwheat, whole-wheat noodles or quinoa) • Vegan yoghurt with nuts or seeds

protein, gives an increased risk of a wide range of conditions – from mild ones such as bad breath, digestive problems and dehydration to serious diseases such as heart disease, cancer and kidney disease. Your average pork chop contains approximately 20g of protein. This is exactly the same amount of protein as 1/2 cup tofu, or 1 cup cooked beans. Add your tofu or beans to vegetables, a sprinkling of seeds or nuts and you’ll be up to more than 30g - over half your RDA. In fact, it is actually easy for vegans to eat more than their RDA of protein without even trying. Health wise, there is an increasing amount of research pointing to the fact that plant based diets with high protein and low carb are the healthiest diets of all. Following a diet high in plant based protein, and plant based fat but low in carbohydrates has shown a 30% lower risk of heart disease, and reduced risk of type 2 diabetes. In fact, one of the most established things in nutrition science is the very well documented wide ranging health benefits of following a low carb diet. So within your food combining, favour beans nuts and seeds over grains where possible. And when you do eat grains, smaller portions is best. As well as protein, some people worry about lack of iron. Vegans are no more likely to suffer from irondeficiency than meat-eaters. Iron from plant-based sources is actually healthier than from meat sources. Pulses, soya products, green vegetables, whole grains,

You don't even need to eat your full spectrum of amino acids at the same meal. The liver can store essential amino acids, so as long as you eat a varied, plant-based diet that regularly includes all the aminos, you’ll be getting everything you need. Some plant sources are actually already complete proteins - soy, quinoa, buckwheat, chia, hemp and amaranth - but rather than focus on just those, it is far better to simply eat a combination of vegetables and plant proteins. Bear in mind that meat eaters and lacto vegetarians eat vegetables, legumes and grains too, so it is kind of irrelevant that their proteins are complete! We also don’t need as much protein as you might think. Men should get 56 grams and women need 46 grams of protein daily. Most people eat almost double this, and it is actually detrimental to health and wellbeing. Too much protein, especially meat based

VEGAN EATING

Photo courtesy of Stem + Glory

dried fruits and dark chocolate are all high in iron and a plant-based diet using a wide range of foods will be getting plenty of iron. I am a firm believer in fresh, tasty plant-based foods with a decent proportion served raw, with a sprinkling of nuts or seeds at every meal is the way forward. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re eating tofu, tempeh, beans, lentils, vegetables, grains, nuts and/or seeds â&#x20AC;&#x201C; youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re likely getting enough protein. . Eating too much protein is a factor in weight gain since surplus turns to fat and we are generally far too proteinfocused. Protein deficiency is rarely seen in affluent populations, and generally only seen in populations where ALL food is scarce. Simply put, where food is abundant, all people, regardless of their dietary choices, will be getting more than enough protein, and all the aminos they need.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Louise Palmer-Masterton is founder of multiple award-winning restaurant Stem + Glory; a hip and trendy but accessible plantbased restaurant, serving delicious gourmet vegan food from locally sourced ingredient 100% made on site. Stem + Glory offers all day casual fine dining, fast breakfast, brunch and lunch, juices, smoothies and great coffee. All available to eat in or take away. Stem + Glory also offers mouth-watering and hugely popular tasting menu evenings and special event menus. The restaurants have an extensive vegan bar, offering the best craft beers and fine wines, alongside cocktails, mocktails and smart drinks. www.stemandglory.uk

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NEWS

Matcha, a fad that’s here to stay Following the footsteps of superfoods such as seaweed, kale and avocados, matcha is the latest fad catching up with both young and old, all across the globe. It not only makes way into a teacup, but is also consumed in the form of smoothies, brownies, ice creams, chocolates, biscuits, beers, cakes, tarts and even noodle recipes. But what is matcha? Matcha is a type of green tea in a powdered form. It has been around for centuries – while many believe it was traditionally served in Japanese tea ceremonies, there are claims its origin is from as early as the Tang dynasty in China. This super concentrated form of green tea completely dissolves in water when mixed well thus the leaf is consumed in its entirety, providing more nutrients. The tea leaves are grown under shade protected from sunlight for about 2-3 weeks. They are then gently air-dried after being steamed but are not rolled. After drying they are ground between two granite rocks to a fine powder, removing fibres, if any. Heralded for its health benefits, researchers say one glass of matcha is equivalent of 10 glasses of green tea in terms of its nutritional value and antioxidant content. This is because when you drink a cup of matcha you ingest the leaf, not just its liquor.

Matcha is packed with antioxidants including the powerful epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) an antioxidant linked to fighting cancer, viruses and heart disease. It also helps in weight loss and boosts metabolism. Other benefits of matcha: • Detoxifies effectively and naturally • Prevents and improves lifestyle-related diseases, mainly obesity • Provides Vitamin C, selenium, chromium, zinc and magnesium • Lowers cholesterol and blood sugar • Regulates raised insulin level • Improves immunity and promotes cell strength • Speeds physical recovery after workouts • Helps in maintaining a healthy skin • Has a calm and relaxing effect • Enhances mood and aids in concentration Are there any side effects of sipping matcha tea? Not really. However, people who are sensitive to caffeine should be aware that it contains decent amounts of the stimulant. Morning, noon or night – make it a healthy ritual and see the matcha magic.

NEWS

The Thai House in Plymouth celebrates two decades of glory Running a restaurant for 20 years is not everyone’s cup of tea. And for 29-year-old Damian Suparasiri taking forward the familyrun Thai establishment in Plymouth is hardly a burden. Damian works alongside his father, Neil while his mother, uncle, two aunts and associate Paul Harrison, who ably support the business. The Thai House, which is conveniently located at the junction of Notte Street and Buckwell Street, is difficult to miss. The restaurant serves authentic Thai cuisine and boasts of recently hosting celebrity chef James Martin for dinner. The Thai House may not be one of the largest in terms of venue, but once you enter the restaurant you at once feel the character and positive vibes it sends out. It can easily accommodate 50 diners and has a separate section upstairs which serves as a function room for small events and parties. Born and brought up in Thailand, Neil Suparasiri landed in England 30 years ago, following the footsteps of his older sister. "I moved from Thailand all those years ago when I was still young and good looking." Neil’s passion for cooking and a multitude of success in various location around South West, led to the launch of his very own

restaurant. "Whatever we cook for the customer is like what we would cook for the family, right from the very start." Damian, who previously worked in the film industry, now works in the kitchen alongside his father. "Pad Thais and Curries are the most popular dishes but we have a chefs special which we change every few months," he was

quoted as saying. The Thai House ensures they cater to all kinds of diet requests, including vegetarians, vegans and dairy free. What they consider as their biggest accomplishment is an 80year-old customer who visits them every week, fondly saying their food is keeping him alive. Now, isn’t that a huge compliment!

New Oriental food supermarket graces Chester The summer month of August brought along with it a brand new Oriental food supermarket in Chester. Zing Asia opened on Bumpers Lane at a location, where previously a tiles warehouse existed. Lord Mayor of Chester Cllr Alex Black and wife Janet officially declared the store open as they cut the ribbon much to the delight of locals gathered there.

Liverpool's Hung Gar Kung Fu Association performed the popular ‘Lion Dance’ to commemorate the occasion. There were more enactments and demonstrations by Wirral and Chester Taekwondo. Free fresh refreshments were served to customers. The new store, which is run by Ian and Mia Doherty, offers pantry, fridge fresh and frozen oriental delicacies for traders, family-run businesses and individual households too. The Dohertys also operate the local online retailer Mia's Accessories Ltd. "We offer a wide range of Oriental food and can offer businesses, the people of Chester and North Wales access to Oriental food supplies without having to make special trips to Liverpool or Manchester," Ian was quoted as saying.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

NeP NeP a must try for traditional Pho

hen Londoners think of eating Vietnamese, they naturally default to Shoreditch where Kingsland Road boasts “Pho Mile”. They may also fancy the many Vietnamese eateries in Hackney. However, dotted around other parts of London are some standout gems, and Nep Nep is certainly one of them. A stone’s throw from Marylebone station or a few minutes walk from Edgware tube station, this family-run restaurant is a real find and serves up all the classics, including vegetarian and vegan offerings. The restaurant is agreeably bijoux and has been recently refurbished. The white painted brick walls feature artwork which takes inspiration from Vietnamese heritage. The name of the restaurant itself recalls the paddy fields of Vietnam. We had starters of Gỏi cuốn tôm, Vietnam’s most well-known dish, and also fried tofu. The Gỏi cuốn tôm or summer rolls are presented in a very modern way, and the peanut dip that is served alongside it was just right to lift the textures of the roll. (There is of course a separate allergen menu to help you check all the dishes). The fried tofu are moreish, crispy and tasty enough to convert any fried-calamariloving diner. The main course choice is substantial. The country’s national dish, Pho, is on

RESTAURANT REVIEW

known dish ll e w t s o m , Vietnam’s Gỏi cuốn tôm

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Nep Nep in Marylebone

the menu in eight different variations. There are also the filled baguettes or Bahn mi. These are a throwback to Vietnam’s colonial past, and are perfect for a lunch time option. The baguette selection was certainly very tempting but we were swayed by the establishments 12-hour simmered broth in the form of Bun bo Hue. Generously proportioned, the aroma of lemongrass, coriander, thai basil, spring onions and the tender pieces of beef and pork packed some hefty flavours. Spicy but certainly not over the top. In contrast, our other main, grilled sea bass flavoured with dill, was as delicate as it was delicious. If you have not discovered Vietnamese coffee then don’t miss out trying it at Nep Nep. It is no exaggeration to say that coffee is Vietnam’s favourite drink. Introduced by the French, it is served in a French drip filter called a Phin. The coffee drips directly into your cup or glass. It is quite a strong blend, and you have the choice of drinking it with carnation milk or without. You might think that that is

a bit 1950s but actually it is earlier! When Vietnam was a colony, the French thought it safer to mix coffee with evaporated milk rather than fresh milk. However apart from that legacy feature, coffee or ca phe, and its myriad content variations, has been well and truly wrested away from the French and made very Vietnamese. If you are not a coffee drinker then try Che Ba Mau. It is a pudding and sweet beverage rolled into one! Served in a tall glass with mung beans, jelly, coconut milk and crushed ice - it looks and tastes good. Mix in the crushed rice and you get an explosion of crunch and flavours in your palette. Our visit was during a very busy lunch hour but nevertheless the service was friendly and well paced. Nep Nep 20 Lisson Grove, Marylebone, London NW1 6TT You can check out their instagram page @nepneprestaurant

NEWS

Chinese Food Festival attracts thousands

his year the Chinese Food Festival kicked off at Potters Fields Park from the 31st August to 1st September. Festival-goers immersed themselves in a world of cuisines from all around Asia. Cobra Beer was the official beer partner for the festival, bringing a wider range of Asian cuisine to food-lovers from London and visitors from all over the world. From dumplings served fresh by Freshasia, a company whose mission is to apply scientific and technological innovations to the content and cultural flavour of dumplings, to Jiaba, all the way from Taiwan, serving braised pork rice, green tea jelly and much more, Chinese Food Festival took food-lovers on a journey across Asia to try Asian cuisine’s most extravagant dishes. The festival wasn’t just about tradition but also about innovation, introducing UK customers to food experiences previously unseen at UK street food markets – including Wheelcake Island, the first wheelcake specialist in the UK – as well as popular pan-Asian favourites including green teas, fruit teas, bubble tea and even Cobra Beer. What does beer have to do with pan-Asian food? For Cobra Beer the answer is “everything”. Created and

launched by Karan Bilimoria in 1989, when he had little but £20,000 in student debt, Cobra Beer is the result of his dissatisfaction with the typical British lagers – with were too gassy to be drunk with food – and ales which had a much less enjoyable, sharp texture and bitter taste. He set out to build a global beer brand. Cobra Beer is now celebrated as a beer anyone can enjoy with foods from all over the world – including food from across Asia. With a whole range of different products including a gluten free beer and even a Blond IPA, named Malabar. Cobra Beer today provides the perfect alternative that can be enjoyed on its own or with foods from around the world. Cobra Beer is a premium beer brewed using a unique and complex recipe with the finest ingredients including water, malted barley, yeast, rice, maize, wheat and three variety of hops. The result is the taste of a lager with the smoothness of ale – perfectly balanced, rounded and smooth. Cobra’s founder, Karan Bilimoria wants everyone to be able to experience the great Cobra taste and its unbeatable smooth texture – including coeliacs, those who don’t drink alcohol, vegans and vegetarians. As a result, the beer has branched out to ensure that it can provide beer to all needs.

NEWS

Cobra Beer Gluten Free, for example, is indistinguishable from its original – unlike many other gluten free beers. Cobra Beer Gluten Free is the latest of Cobra’s innovations: over the years, Cobra Beer has launched a number of different beers. Cobra Malabar, another recent addition to Cobra Beer’s portfolio, is a Blond IPA that took nearly two years to develop. And now, Cobra Beer can reveal that beers across its whole range have been accredited with ‘Vegan’ status by the Vegetarian Society. Free-to-enter, the Chinese Food Festival was not just about tasting this amazing food but learning about it. With Cobra Beer Attendees participated in a live masterclass by Lee Kum Kee in collaboration with the award-winning London culinary hub, School of Wok, also featuring the founder Jeremy Pang. Participants learned to prepare two traditional Chinese dishes alongside family and friends. Attendees also tried immersive cultural experiences supported by UK Han Culture Association, an organisation educating people about the Han Chinese – a major ethnic group in China and major emblem of the Chinese civilization – with the earliest recording of the Hanfu dating back to more than 2,000 years ago. The Association offered Hanfu make-up and costume experiences, the traditional game Tou Hu, folk music performed by children’s choirs, and traditional desserts.

REVIEW

Royal Green Curry

REVIEW

Trusted brand of Thai Cuisine

humble diner this intriguing wine is light on the palette and very, very drinkable. Having got off to this good start, we were inspired by the starters too. The crab cakes were excellent as was the Tom Yum Goong Lek. A special mention needs to be given to Yum Nua, the beef salad. If critics are guilty of over using phrases like “layers of flavour”, then this is the dish where such usage should be actively encouraged. The tender beef is accompanied by black pepper, celery, carrots, red onions, tomatoes and all brought together very palatably by a sweet-ish sauce. The main course presented us with some decision-making problems as it all sounded so good. There are pages and pages of choice including a vegetarian menu. The Chu Chi Goong had to be tried. In this wonderful dish, a favourite in northern Thailand, large prawns are cooked in a rich red curry sauce with coconut milk. Our other choice was spicy steamed sea bass. And as accompaniment we opted for steamed rice. We concluded that this is tasty authentic Thai food at affordable prices. We found the service attentive, polite and efficient. It is no surprise to us that Thai Square have been winners of the Best Restaurant category in the annual British Restaurant Awards. Thai Square, 148 Strand, London, WC2R 1JA For locations in and around London, please go to their website: https://thaisq.com

hai Square restaurants are a well-known and trusted brand of Thai cuisine. London has ten such establishments and there are three others outside of London – Windsor, St Albans and Richmond. We decided to descend on the branch that is in the Strand - it is the original Thai Square restaurant established some 22 years ago. Thai Square The Strand is very close to the Lyceum theatre and also to Covent Garden and Charing Cross station. It is perfectly situated for a pre or post theatre meal. The interior is very welcoming. As you enter the lighting and “atmos” remove you from the hustle and bustle of The Strand straightaway. Visually, the space has a very bold and attractive floral theme - a giant faux cherry blossom. You may have witnessed that this botanic direction is increasingly becoming common in hipper shops of various hues. So what about the food? Well, this is a restaurant group where ingredients matter. We are informed that Thai Square restaurants use authentic Thai ingredients freshly flown in daily from Thailand. Our meal was certainly strong on flavours and the presentation of the dishes is clearly equally important to the mission of this group. It also scored highly on attentiveness and knowledge of the staff. One wine recommendation by our waitress was a Thailand produced “Monsoon Valley” blended red wine (2013). This was a discovery and a half. We feel this is the perfect wine for spicy food. Now how vines are actually grown in a country as humid as Thailand probably merits a David Attenborough-style scientific documentary but for the

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Dim Sum in Colindale

RESTAURANT REVIEW

any moons ago this reviewer had the good fortune to live in Gerrard Street. It is the central street in London’s Chinatown. At that time, Soho was considered the be all and end all of Chinese eateries. Fast forward a few decades, and this preeminence is no longer guaranteed. Over recent years one challenger has consistently come from a North London destination - Colindale. The challenger’s most recent reincarnation is the Bang Bang Oriental Food hall, a complex owned by the Royal China Group. And as I pen this, during the mid-autumn festival of 2018, the place is buzzing with customers, and mooncakes are being purchased in a frenzy. As its twitter account proclaims, this is a place to meet, eat and socialise.” And to tempt you to these outer reaches of London, there is a “wide selection of 26 Asian cuisines – including Dim Sum, Taiwanese street food and Chinese.” It is here that we have come to contemplate the parallels of eating Dim Sum in Chinatown and Colindale, and what better controlled experiment than visiting sister restaurants in both places? The Golden Dragon restaurant at Colindale occupies a massive floor space and seats 360 people very generously.The spaciousness immediately called into mind the era of the Dim Sum trolley. The quaint metal trolleys housing the morsels of delight have entirely disappeared from the Dim Sum scene in London. I asked a manager in the Golden Dragon why this fantastic extension to the entire experience, so reminiscent of Hong Kong dim sum parlours, had vanished. She explained that as floor space came increasingly under pressure, the trolleys started disappearing. Unlike me, however, she did not recall the trolleys with any degree of fondness. Perhaps the backbreaking work that was surely part and parcel of serving and filling up the trolleys might explain her antipathy. We ordered a selection of steamed and fried Dim Sum. Perfectly steamed without being sticky, we made light of scallop

cheung fun, har kau and other prawn dumplings. Some of the dumplings have hints of celery and other greens to develop the flavour. Of the fried and baked Dim Sum, the paper wrapped prawns need a special mention. The top is finished off with sesame seeds adding extra crunch to the roll. The deep-fried cuttlefish cakes are again seasoned delicately with greens and are especially good dipped in the accompanying sauce. The Dim Sum range was extensive, and all plates were of a very high standard. Golden Dragon also specialises in Hot Pot dishes and the menu is an all-encompassing one. We made a mental note to try it next time. We decided to finish off with baked crab with ginger and spring onions.The generously sized crab was picked live from an in-house crustacean tank and cooked perfectly, and did not disappoint.Yes, it’s messy and challenging to get all that sweet goodness out of it, but with the right tools (provided), it is worth bringing your own bib! Our experience of Golden Dragon in Colindale was especially positive because it seems to espouse a somewhat different ethos from Chinatown. It was gratifying to see the coexistence of a flagship restaurant with a plethora of kiosk style eateries in the same space. And, importantly, the latter had communal seating. This is all combined with areas for cultural and community events. In this way, the notion of food as central to our sociality is emphasised. And the entire complex is geared to occasions for sharing, for distributing and giving. So next time someone suggests going for Dim Sum - think Colindale! If, however, you are stuck in central London, and bewildered by the wide choice of eateries in London’s Chinatown, then look no further than the Golden Dragon on Gerrard Street. You won’t be disappointed. Golden Dragon, Colindale, 399 Edgware Road Colindale, London NW9 0FH http://www.bangbangoriental.com/restaurant/

PRODUCTS NEWS

Cobra Beer Malabar celebrates its first anniversary

obra Beer’s first-ever ale, Malabar Blond IPA, celebrates a milestone this month – its first year on tap at restaurants and bars across the UK. One year ago, Cobra Beer Malabar Blond IPA was launched across the on-trade. In this time, it has met with the highest praise from restaurateurs, chefs and the brewing industry alike, winning the Grand Gold prize at the Monde Selection in 2018 – one of seven Gold and Grand Gold medals received by Cobra Beer at the Monde Selection, one of the brewing industry’s biggest awards. Cobra Beer Malabar is a small-batch Blond IPA brewed using the finest ingredients, including ale yeast and a traditional Indian blend of barley malt, maize, five varieties of hops, wheat, and rice, creating the impossibly smooth texture that makes

Cobra Beer the favourite accompaniment for food of all varieties. The ale recipe and the name take inspiration from the Malabar coast of Karnataka, the state where Cobra Beer was first brewed in 1990, and it was launched with an exciting, refreshed visual brand identity – giving customers an idea of Cobra Beer’s plans for the future. Lord Bilimoria, founder and chairman of Cobra Beer, said: “Malabar is an IPA like no other. True to the spirit of Cobra Beer, this is an innovative beer which started with a traditional Indian recipe based on the finest ingredients and advanced by trying dozens of different variations before we landed on the perfect brew. That is why this beer has been recognised at the highest level by the brewing industry’s biggest awards. “Malabar is the perfect addition to our portfolio of beers, meeting a huge demand for smooth, refreshing and aromatic beers that pair well with all food. I always say, as a business, we must listen to our consumers. This is just the first year of the launch and I cannot wait to share this extraordinary taste with more consumers in restaurants and bars across the UK.” Malabar is by far the most drinkable IPA available. And, while most IPAs are very aromatic, they are very difficult to drink on their own or to pair with food because of their overpowering bitterness, hoppiness and sharpness in taste. Malabar, by comparison, accompanies food far better than any other – filling a huge gap in the consumer market. The blond ale is currently stocked at bars and restaurants of all kinds.

PRODUCTS NEWS Dominic Chapman, Chef-Proprietor at The Beehive in White Waltham – a much-loved destination for food-lovers in Berkshire and the surrounding area – says “I’m very proud to sell Malabar in my pub and restaurant… it is an IPA that is creating real interest.” Guests at the award-winning pub, recommended by The Good Food Guide 2018, enjoy Malabar on draught, either at the bar or outside in warm weather. Dominic says: “Malabar works brilliantly with our rabbit pies, fish and chips and Sunday lunches. Malabar is now a pint our customers expect to be on the bar.” Jesse Dunford Wood, chef-owner at Parlour in Kensal Green, West London, also started serving Cobra Malabar to diners and other customers in the past year. What stands out about Malabar to Jesse? “The best thing about it is that it works so well with food, and it has been going really well with many things we have on our menu especially our cow pie, and duck liver paté dishes,” he says, describing it as “very drinkable and not too strong – which means you can enjoy more than one.” “People are enjoying discovering something new… The younger crowd has certainly caught the IPA bug, and they seem to be the most enthusiastic about the Pale Ales.” It’s not just the young crowd who have embraced the taste of Malabar. Hemu Patel, the owner of family-run Club 2000 in Rayners Lane, North London, has stocked Cobra Malabar since August 2017. He says: “Malabar IPA Blond has been extremely popular with craft beer enthusiasts.”. Club 2000 serves innovative East Africaninfluenced Indian dishes such as Mogo Masala and Mari Chicken, making a “very refreshing” pairing for Malabar, which customers find “easy to drink”. Following its Grand Gold award at the Monde Selection Awards, Cobra Beer Malabar Blond IPA has contributed to taking Cobra Beer’s tally of gold medals up to a remarkable 101 since it first entered the annual competition for taste and quality in 2001. Cobra Beer’s brewer’s notes describe Malabar as a golden, clear IPA with mid carbonation; its bold malt and hoppy flavour – with an addition of fresh ginger, lemon and subtle peppery warmth – is accompanied by a lingering and warm finish. The bitter spiciness from the Noble Hop means it is especially suited to rich red meats such as ox cheek, braised beef, or smoked peppered fish.

This includes both the Madhu’s restaurants at Southall and the Sheraton Skyline. Operations Manager Sherin Alexander Mody said: “Smoke, citrus, salt, aromatic spices are just a few of the flavour nuances that can be picked up whilst matching tandoori grills and Cobra Malabar IPA”. Sherin adds that Malabar has “a colour ranging from a rich dark golden yellow and burnt orange hue” and a “smooth pleasant” texture, making it “a superb match for our robata grills that the restaurant is renowned for… It’s great with everything.”

Dominic says: “Malabar works brilliantly with our rabbit pies, fish and chips and Sunday lunches. Malabar is now a pint our customers expect to be on the bar.”

TRAVEL LIFE

Architectural splendour of

IMPeRIal INdIa

Victoria Memorial, Kolkata

By Archisman Dinda

he British had a lasting impact on Indian architecture, as they saw themselves as the successors to the Mughals and used architecture as a symbol of power. They brought in the world view, which made the indigenous architecture more vibrant and was later known as IndoSaracenic architecture. In a country with a history as old as India, the architectural heritage of the two centuries is hardly a summation of the past, especially when, the distant past is easier to recognise and appreciate that the recent past. Indian subcontinent has been invaded ever since the times of Aryans. The invaders always attracted by richness of her natural

President House, Delhi

resources, craftsmanship of her countrymen and glory of an already flourishing reign. The Europeans interest with India persisted since the classical times. The expedition of Vasco da Gamma to discover India in 1498 to the Dutch in 1590 and then the East India Company in 1600. Like all other aspects, colonization of Indian also had an impact on architecture style. With colonization, a new chapter in Indian architecture began.

TRAVEL LIFE

Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus in Mumbai However, it was the British who left a lasting impact on the India architecture. They saw themselves as the successors to the Mughals and used architecture as a symbol of power. When the British government had to consolidate its position in India, a whole new architecture was developed. In the eclecticism of the age, English designers, disgusted with the classical and mediaeval styles of Europe's past thought fit for his particular purpose, had turned back to the native vernacular traditions and produced the so-called 'Free-Style', hybrid but non-historicist. However, it is particularly difficult to see colonial buildings as being a part of our past since even today; they are in active use in India. Indo-British architecture is characterised by structures which are monuments and many functional buildings which have monumental characteristics. Writer’s building in Kolkata, the Delhi Town Hall, the New Delhi secretariat, the Victoria Terminus now rechristened as Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus in Mumbai and many more which are now termed as “Heritage Buildings’, continues to serve the nation and serves as a testament of the triumphant of Britain’s conquest of India. Erstwhile Bombay, Calcutta and Madras, now Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai, and of course Delhi happens to have the largest culture of colonial structure in India, since

Europeans brought with them their world view and a whole understanding of European architecture Neo-Classical, Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance. The Portuguese architecture adapted the country’s climate appropriately, giving rise to Iberian galleried patio house, the Baroque churches of Goa, Se Cathedral and Arch of Conception. The Danish influence is evident in Nagapatnam, which was laid out in squares and canals and also in Tranquebar, now Tharangambadi in Tamilnadu and Serampore in West Bengal. The French gave a distinct urban design to its settlement in Pondicherry by applying the Cartesian grid plans and classical architectural patterns. Delhi Town Hall

TRAVEL LIFE they were the capitals of the three British presidencies, and Delhi from 1912 the capital of the empire. Delhi’s morphology has the stamp of two imperial decision – that of Mughal’s decision to shift their capital from Agra to Delhi and later that of the British from Calcutta. Imperial Durbar at New Delhi was inaugurated by the British in 1931. Like Calcutta, it was stamped with the hallmark of authority and like most other seats of British power in India it stood apart from its predecessors. The prevailing enthusiasm of Anglo-Indian imperial designers for the synthesis of eastern and western styles quailed before the problem of assimilating an urban order, devised in accordance with the principles of the modern English Garden City, and the vital chaos of Shahjahanabad: the latter seemed to be the very embodiment of all the evils of laissez-faire growth that the formulators of the Garden City movement most specifically deplored. Sir Edwin Lutyens, who is credited for designing New Delhi, had arrived in India to undertake this great work had scant respect for the subcontinent's architectural legacy. His views grew only the more derogatory with first-hand familiarity - especially with the Anglo-Indian

Marble Place, Kolkata

Imperial hybrids developed by his immediate predecessors, but also with the traditions of 'veneered joinery' from which those hybrids were drawn. Lutyens' imperial eclecticism ranged from Wren's St Stephen's Walbrook (for the Viceroy's library) to the Mahastupa at Sanchi (for the central cupola) and the chahar bagh. However, at the end of his trip, he took in the ubiquitous Indian ‘chattriand chadya’, crossfertilized acanthus and volute with padma and bell for his Order and tethered Indian elephants at salient portal corners where the great ancient Mesopotamian monarchies had ceremonial syncretism winged monsters. New Delhi as envisioned by Lutyens, was laid out five-kilometres south of Old Delhi on a well-drained site standing slightly above the level of the surrounding plain. The resulting complex is a spacious, attractive, and carefully planned city, with broad, tree lined avenues and many open areas, parks, gardens, and fountains. Many of New Delhi's best-known landmarks lie on a line running east to west through the city. The line starts at the National Stadium. Then it passes through

Job Charnock's mausoleum

St. John Church

Skyline at Rajiv Chowk, Delhi

the Children's Park and the War Memorial Arch along the impressive Raj Path, through Central Vista Park, to Rashtrapati Bhavan (the residence of the president of India). A similar line running north-south, known as "Janpath," goes from the main shopping centre, Connaught Place, to residential suburbs. Several districts retain their own character. The Civil Lines, originally laid out to house British colonial officials, is now a residential area for well-off Indian government officials. On the other hand, the hybrid aspect of the style devised by Sir Scott for Bombay - though still essentially foreign and historicist - was a crucial pointer for builders to move away from a narrow cultural chauvinism towards Indian traditions. To that extent, it was reformative. However, the synthesis were to evolve, was far from rejecting overt allusion to the monumental styles of the past, added a resounding new dimension to historicist eclecticism in a truly imperial style. The energetic Governor, Sir Bartle Frere of which

Scottâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buildings were so significant a product, launched a public building campaign in Bombay in the second half of the 1860â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. The campaign opened with the Decorated Gothic scheme for the rebuilding of St. Thomas's Cathedral by the Government Architect, James Trubshawe. This was only partially realized, but Trubshawe made a weighty contribution, in collaboration with W. Paris, in the General Post and Telegraph Office of 1872. Of other landmarks produced by the campaign, William Emerson's Crawford Markets - in an elementary northern Gothic delineated in the various coloured stones, which contributed so much to the success of the Gothic Revival in Bombay - reflected the ideals of the early design reformers at home more nearly than any other prominent Anglo-Indian building of the period. For the Public Works Secretariat, Colonel Henry St Clair Wilkins, Royal Engineers, followed Scott's lead with a Venetian Gothic design in 1877 and his colleague Colonel John Fuller mixed Venetian and early English for the stupendous High Court of 1879. The culminating masterpieces of the series, increasingly hybrid in style, are Frederick Stevens' works, especially Victoria Terminus, the headquarters of the Great Indian Peninsular Railway. Other famous landmarks in Mumbai are the Gateway of India. This huge arch commemorates the visit of King George V to India in 1911. The original white plaster design was replaced in 1927 by an arch of yellow stone in a mixture of Gujarati, Islamic, and European architectural styles. Other public buildings in Western neoclassical style include the Mint and the Town Hall. While the attention of Scott and his Bombay followers was focused

Connaught Place, Delhi

TRAVEL LIFE

Gateway of India, Mumbai

on Venice, the Government Architect Walter Granville ruptured the Classical decorum of Calcutta with an excursion into the arena favoured by Street at home and based the construction of Calcutta High Court (1872) on the Cloth Hall at Ypres. He also showed his versatility - not only at turning a corner - in the splendid General Post Office which, if classical in the purity of its forms, is certainly Baroque in scale and movement. For the Victoria Memorial at the other end of the Maidan, William Emerson embarked upon a quixotic attempt to rival the Taj Mahal. It was built of a similar luscious material but the alien forms, extruded from post-Bramante schemes for St Peter's, Rome, hover between Mannerist and Baroque. The Victoria Memorial, built between 1906 and 1921, is a huge structure in the Renaissance style, faced with white marble. It seeks to mingle classical, Western, and Mughal influences. The memorial contains Queen Victoria's piano and

writing desk and a fine collection of portraits of Anglo-Indian leaders. Another interesting structure is the Ochterlony Monument, a granite column 46 metres high. In Calcutta and Madras such are the mansions and club houses of Chowringhi and Adyar, respectively, with their high ceilings and verandahs. Native merchants went even further with their houses. Most spectacular by far, is the Zimindari Mullick's 'Marble Palace' in Calcutta, with its astonishing classical interpretation of diwan and court. Many imposing structures still stand as monuments to British rule in India. They include the Raj Bhavan, the official residence of the governor of the state of West Bengal, which was modelled on Kedleston Hall, a great house in Derbyshire, in the United Kingdom. The Writers' Building, a civil service headquarters, and the High Court are fine buildings in the Gothic style. The General Post Office and the Town Hall are built in neoclassical style.

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