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Corporate services Serving British Asian and Middle East commercial interests LONDON • GLASGOW www.blackgoldinternational.co.uk
Hans Raj Ram (CEO) e: hans@blackgoldinternational.co.uk t: 0141 353 3838 • Head Office: 1 Woodside Terrace, Glasgow G3 7UY
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Contents Turkish Airlines awarded Best Airline in Europe ‌ again!
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WTM for high fliers in the travel industry
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Biman appoints South African born CEO
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Thailand’s PM warns of danger to tourists after beach murders
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Ramoji Film City a land where dreams are made
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Have you had your rice today?
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Why Indians love to visit Britain
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Myanmar land of mystery, hope and fragile beauty
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Editorial A Mixed Bag of Stories Welcome to the second issue of Travel Life Magazine, a new quarterly publication focusing on travel in the UK & Europe, the Middle East and Asia. In this issue, we have a mixed bag of stories to share. We’re delighted to report that our first publication went down a storm, with positive feedback from readers and travel industry professionals alike. We now plan to replicate and expand on that success over the next issues, taking our readers to exotic and unusual destinations, revealing some of the most luxurious hotels, exploring the wonders of the world, or offering insight and features on more well-known landmarks, buildings and cultural attractions across the continents. We pride ourselves on offering up-to-date, well researched information about events and issues that affect travel, whether it’s about the World Travel Market which takes place in London’s ExCel from 3-6 November 2014, or advice about travelling to Thailand in the wake of the tragic murders of two innocent tourists. Myanmar (Burma) is an extraordinarily beautiful destination, which has been isolated from the rest of the world for many decades. However, things are changing now and tourism is set to explode in the coming years. Travel Life is pleased to provide an in-depth feature about Myanmar and all the sights worth seeing.
Customer Survey The editorial team also plans to interact with you, the reader, to find out more about your travel experiences. To this end we will be launching a survey to discover whether consumers/travellers are getting value for money from airlines on all types of flights, in business or economy class to and from Bangladesh, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka.
So, if you’re a seasoned traveller or just a one off tourist, your feedback is important to us and more importantly to the airlines. Now, fasten your seat belts, sit back and … enjoy!
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Whether it’s for service excellence, delicious food, superb in-flight entertainment, cabin cleanliness, comfortable seats or staff friendliness, we intend to find out which airlines are the most popular with passengers. Once the survey is completed the results will be published in a future edition of Travel Life magazine.
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Myanmar
Land of mystery, hope and fragile beauty By Rita Payne Pyin Oo Lwin
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One soon runs out of superlatives when writing about visiting Myanmar as a tourist. We were greeted on arrival at Mandalay airport from London by our genial guide, M, accompanied by a driver and car. It was early afternoon when we reached the first town on our itinerary, Pyin Oo Lwin or Maymo as it was known in British colonial days. We checked into the Kandawgyi Hill Resort, a charming colonial building with flowers trailing down the roof. We walked to the nearby Kandawgyi botanical gardens and lake where we found more than 70 species of bamboo, a walk-in aviary with hornbills
and other exotic birds and an enclosure with a rare breed of tapir no longer found in the wild in Myanmar. A striking feature in the town centre is the Purcell Clock Tower built in 1936 to commemorate the Silver Jubilee of the reign of King George V of Britain. The night market was buzzing with activity. The biggest crowds were outside the food stands choosing from an enticing array of soups, noodles, fish and meat dishes and local snacks. In Pyin Oo Lwin, as we were to discover in other parts of the country, once imposing buildings from the British period, were in varying stages of disrepair and were being rapidly
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Mandalay In Mandalay, our base was the relatively new and aptly named Ayarwaddy River View Hotel. One of the city’s major attractions is Kuthodaw Paya known as the world’s biggest book. 729 pages of ancient Buddhist teachings, with two on each side of a marble slab, are set in rows of individual white stupas. The central feature of Mahamuni Paya pwe, another important pilgrimage centre, is a 13 foot-high seated Buddha image coated with gold leaf. We viewed the sunset from the Sutaungpyi Pagoda on Mandalay Hill where tourists with cameras and sharp elbows jostled for the best positions. Among the other noteworthy temples in Mandalay is Mahamuni which has one of the most revered Buddha images in the country. The statue weighing six and a half tons is enshrined in a small chamber covered by an ornate seventiered roof. We mingled with crowds of devotees at other temples on the tourist trail walking through arcades of stalls selling incense, candles, flowers and other offerings for the Buddha. We were trailed by persistent vendors competing to sell us silver ornaments, lacquer-ware, embroidered silk and other local handicrafts. We were soon laden with a rich haul of mementoes and gifts to bring back to London. Dinner and cocktails were served in our hotel’s Skybar
restaurant with a stunning view of the river and hills beyond. The menu offered a choice of Burmese, Thai, Italian and other western cuisine. Mohinga, one of Myanmar’s traditional dishes, became a firm favourite. This is a delicious fish soup flavoured with egg, coriander, garlic, fried onion and chilli. We also loved khow suey, a dish that comes from the mountainous Shan state, which is made of noodles, curried beef or chicken with coconut milk. We were up early to see the jade market where one can trace every stage of production, large slabs of dull grey rocks were broken up into smaller pieces and finally crafted into exquisite jewellery and carvings. Since China is one of the biggest buyers of Burmese jade, Chinese traders were huddled in tea bars engaged in intense negotiations with local sellers. People in Myamar, without the spending power of tourists, tend to spend their leisure time visiting temples, parks, markets, tea bars and small eating places or just relaxing at home with their families. M told us that Korean TV series were especially popular and often triggered family rows when the wife’s addiction to these soap operas left the husband feeling neglected and sullen. M confessed that he had a passion for Korean martial arts videos. He was a man of contradictions, a kick-boxing champion whose life plan was to become a monk when he was fifty. The railway bazaar in Mandalay is an experience not to be missed. Vendors spread their wares across the railway line and casually moved their produce out of the way as the train passed within inches of where they had been squatting. As soon as the train had gone vegetables, fruit and other
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replaced by modern high-rise structures. Most of the grand new mansions belonged to either the despised generals who ruled the country or their ‘cronies’. According to M there were four types of rich people categorised by colours which indicated how they made their money – not always legitimately: white for heroin, red for ruby, green for jade and yellow signifying gold.
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produce were repositioned and trading resumed almost as though there had been no interruption. After the excitement of the railway market we went on a calming tricycle ride through the city to the Golden Palace Monastery which was originally part of the royal palace at Amarapura before it was moved to Mandalay. It is noted for its teak carvings of characters from Buddhist mythology. One could spend a whole day in Mandalay Palace constructed by the last Burmese monarchy between 1857 and 1859. It follows the traditional Burmese palace design, the main complex is inside a walled fort surrounded by a moat. A visit to a small family-run gold-leaf production house made us appreciate the gruelling work that goes into crafting the delicate gold leaf which adorns temples and statues throughout Myanmar. Young men with heavy mallets spend hours pounding tiny slivers of gold which, after a lengthy process, are turned into sheets of fine gold leaf. We were in Maymnar at a time when the country was enjoying a respite from the rigid military rule that had subjugated the country for most of its existence after independence in 1948. Our guide said that in the past he was regularly summoned for questioning by intelligence agents if tourists in his charge did or said anything considered to be off-message. The people of Myanmar were pinning their hopes on further reforms and their iconic opposition leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, eventually being elected the country’s President. A few quietly voiced fears that when push came to shove the military would be unwilling to relinquish its grip on power. The guides are deliberately not being identified in this report to avoid inadvertently landing them in trouble with the authorities.
Inle Lake Our next destination, Inle Lake, is situated 2,800 feet above sea level. It is the largest lake in Myanmar but sadly shrinking because of pollution and other factors. Local boatmen have developed a distinctive style of rowing with one foot guiding the oar. All one could hear were the calls of water birds and the swish of oars as our boatman steered us to our hotel – Inle Princess resort - an escapist’s paradise with elegantly designed wooden cottages, the most expensive are the ones facing the lake. During our two days in Inle we toured by boat past villages with houses on stilts, floating gardens, monasteries and schools. Individual villages are noted for a specific craft or activity such as fishing, weaving, silverware, clothes and building boats. We were very aware of the fragility of this way of life which is likely to disappear in a few years with the spread of modernisation.
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Pindaya Pindaya, the next town on our programme, is surrounded by hills in southern Shan state. It is noted for the Pin Daya Shwe Oo Min Cave Pagoda set in cliffs high above the town. There are estimated to be more than 8,000 statues in the complex of caves. Each is packed from the ground to the roof with statues of the Buddha in all sizes, carved in wood, stone, marble and bronze. Pindaya is also a centre for producing traditional, hand-made paper and parasols embedded with leaves and flowers.
Yangon From Pindaya it was a short hop to Yangon, the biggest city and former capital of Myanmar. We began by exploring the superbly landscaped Kandawgyi Natural Garden. The main attraction in Yangon was, of course, the world famous Shwe Degon Pagoda, whose towering golden dome is visible from almost anywhere in the city. The pagoda has played a key role in the country’s turbulent history. It was here that large crowds gathered to hear Aung San Suu Kyi during the pro-democracy rallies in 1988, it was also the centre of monks’ protests in 2007. Places associated with Aung San Suu Kyi are a special draw for visitors. These include the house where Ms. Suu Kyi spent part of her childhood before her father General Aung San, a national hero, was brutally assassinated in 1947. Another point of interest is the villa by the lake where Ms. Suu Kyi spent 15 years under house arrest and which is still her home. Although tourists are not allowed to enter there are always clusters of curious visitors peering through the gates or posing for photographs outside. Our guide in Yangon, C, was an ex-teacher who had been jailed briefly by the military authorities for trying to expose a corruption scam. He was a gentle man happy to answer our volley of questions about Myanmar’s history and places we had seen. He showed us around local markets, significant landmarks from different stages of Myanmar’s history and British colonial buildings including the Strand Hotel which has recaptured some of its old glamour after extensive renovation.
Bagan Thankfully, our fears that Bagan, our next destination, might not match its image as a tourist wonderland proved to be unjustified. Despite being invaded by hordes of tourists Bagan retains its allure and mystery. Our hotel, Bagan Thande, in Old Bagan on the banks of the Ayarwaddy, proudly displayed a sign over the entrance stating that the Prince of Wales visited the hotel in 1922. Individual whitewashed chalets are dotted around the garden among shady acacia and palm trees, most with a view of the river. As night fell the moonlight shimmered on the water, a magical sight. In the morning we explored a few of the thousands of pagodas studding the landscape. There is a story or legend attached to each one. Signs outside the better maintained pagodas displayed the names of donors from all over the world. Between the 11th and 13th centuries Bagan was Burma's capital and one of the most important centres of learning in Asia. Many pagodas were destroyed in the 1974 earthquake. Indian influence is strong in the style and decoration of pagodas from the early Bagan period. For the more adventurous, balloon flights provide a panoramic view of Bagan and its forest of temples.
Royal cities On the final stage of our tour we visited three former royal capitals, all near Mandalay: Inwa, Sagaing and Amarapura. We toured Inwa on a horse-drawn cart since the roads are not
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From Inwa we drove to Sagaing whose white and gold stupas provide panoramic views of the river and town spread out below. Sagaing became the capital of the Shan kingdom around 1315 after the fall of Bagan. In later years the town’s significance became more spiritual, it is now a place where Buddhists go to meditate.
culture and traditions so fascinating. Audley, a leading travel agency based in the UK, has long experience of organising tourism packages for Myanmar and planned our programme. We were pleased we elected to choose a package which included a guide and car, this freed us from dealing with arduous logistical arrangements. Audley’s country specialist, Alex Shepherd says, “We are always careful to ensure that anyone who travels to the country is fully aware of the political issues so that they know what to expect.”
The final destination on our programme was Amarapura a centre of silk weaving. The Maha Gandaryon Monastery is home to 1300 monks and novices from all over the country. We wandered through the residential quarters as young novices swept the grounds, chanted prayers or chatted amongst themselves. On our last evening in Myanmar we joined other tourists in rows of boats moored below Amarapura bridge to view the sunset. As the glowing orange sun sank behind the horizon tourists cheered and toasted the moment with glasses of wine or champagne. This was an especially poignant occasion for us as it marked the end of our holiday in Myanmar.
Images of Myanmar will remain with us for ever: the tranquil waters of Inle Lake, monks chanting in temples, the air heavy with the scent of flowers and incense, vibrant markets and, most important of all, the smiling faces of the gentle people yearning for a better future under an enlightened government. For their sakes, one hopes their dreams will not turn out to be a mirage.
Tourism prospects
For best Myanmar deals: www.audleytravel.com
Forty per cent of Myanmar’s population is made up of ethnic minorities which is what makes the country’s rich diversity of
Rita Payne, is a London based journalist and President of Commonwealth Journalists Association (CJA)
Shepherd’s has this advice for tourists: ” The country will undoubtedly change in the next few years so this would be a good time to visit while it enjoys a period when hopes are high for greater freedom and political reforms.”
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in the best of condition. Little remains of the glory days of Old Inwa which is now a quiet backwater surrounded by farms and fields.
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Turkish Airlines
awarded Best Airline in Europe … again!
T
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urkish Airlines continued to consolidate its position as one of the world’s leading airlines at the 2014 Skytrax World Airline Awards in July. The awards, from the Skytrax brand associated with air travel excellence, were announced at the Farnborough Airshow in Hampshire and saw Turkish Airlines scoop top prize for Best Airline in Europe 2014 after 18 million air travellers from 160 countries took part in a survey of 245 airlines. Turkish Airlines is the only airline in the world to win such an accolade for four consecutive years.
Sensationally, the airline also went on to achieve Best Airline in Southern Europe, Best Business Class Onboard Catering, and Best Business Class Lounge Dining. “This is a tremendous honour for our airline and one that we are extremely proud of,” said the CEO of Turkish Airlines, Temel Kotil, Ph.D. “Our success inspires us to continue to improve and deliver the unparalleled service global travellers have come to expect from Turkish Airlines.” Turkish Airlines, which was established in 1933, operates the world’s most comprehensive network of 108 countries, with a fleet of 262 passenger and cargo aircraft flying to 260 destinations worldwide. The awards accompany a continued period of success which has seen passenger numbers rise by 16.8% so far in 2014 compared to the same period last year. Impressive growth figures have been cemented by large-scale aircraft orders, continuously expanding route networks, and innovative approaches with employees rising to 40,000. In 2008, after being ranked as a 4star airline, Turkish Airways joined the Star Alliance, the leading global
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airline network dedicated to providing passengers with a smoother travel experience. Ever since then, Turkish Airlines has been gathering awards. In addition to the 2014 accolades, over the years, the airline has received huge recognition including five awards for Best Airline in Southern Europe, and further awards for Best Premium Economy Seats, Best Catering in Economy Class and Best Business Class Catering. Success in catering has been achieved by adding the ‘Flying Chef ’ service for Business Class passengers on all long-hall and some short international flights. A seamless catering service is offered at the newly refurbished lounge at The Turkish Airlines Lounge Istanbul at Ataturk Airport in partnership with gourmet food company, TURKISH DO&CO who serve up some of the best meals in the sky. The Turkish Airlines Lounge Istanbul is, in itself, a world class facility. Reflecting both Ottoman and Selcuk architecture, the lounge has been expanded to cover 6,900 sq metres of space. Facilities include children’s playground, library, billiards area, prayer room, teleconference section, free Wi-Fi access, rest and shower space and massage beds. There’s even a golf simulator for travellers who want to brush up on their skills, making a flight with Turkish Airlines even more memorable. For more information please visit www.turkishairlines.com
THE JOURNEY OF UNIQUE LUXURY STARTS HERE.
You are invited to experience unique luxury and home comfort in Turkish Airlines Lounge Istanbul in Turkey. Every detail inside our special lounge is designed for your comfort and relaxation. Be our guest to enjoy exclusive services in our restaurants, tea garden, library, movie theater and many more... The lounge is exclusive to Turkish Airlines Business Class passengers, Elite, Elite Plus and Star Gold card holders and persons who are part of TA corporate agreement arriving to or departing from Istanbul on a direct or transit flight. turkishairlines.com
Voted Europe’s Best Airline at the 2014 Skytrax Passengers Choice Awards
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NEWS
WTM for high fliers in the travel industry World Travel Market (WTM), the leading UK event for the global travel industry, arrives in London from 3rd to 6th November at ExCel Exhibition Centre. Over 50,000 travel industry professionals and visitors are expected to descend on ExCel to attend or exhibit at the event which offers a unique opportunity for the whole global travel trade to meet, network, negotiate and conduct business. All sectors of the travel industry are represented from airlines, tourist boards, tour operators, cruise liners, hotels, PR companies and travel agents to technology and online experts. The last WTM in 2013 generated a total of £2.2 billion of new business for the global travel industry. Feedback from exhibitors was overwhelmingly positive with 96% saying they were satisfied. Visitors in 2014 can expect an exciting programme of conferences, seminars and events, or even a game of ‘spot the celebrity’. Over the years the event has played host to
an array of famous people including entrepreneur Sir Richard Branson, film star Michael Douglas and TV star Dannii Minogue. The event will be opened by retailing ‘royalty’, Justin King CBE, former CEO of Sainsbury’s and one of the UK’s leading business leaders. For exhibiting companies and business partners, exclusive sponsorship and advertising opportunities are available. WTM also operates the largest recurring press centre in the UK used by up to 3,000 journalists. With many stand options available in
different areas, there is still the chance for industry professionals to exhibit at this year’s WTM, to maximise industry exposure and penetrate the hugely profitable travel market. For more information, please visit wtmlondon.com WTM 2014 ExCel London Opening hours Mon 3 Nov 10-6pm Tue 4 Nov 10-6pm Wed 5 Nov 10-8pm Thu 6 Nov 10-4pm
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WTM facilitates search engine optimisation Leading executives from search engines, Google and Yahoo! will advise delegates at the World Travel Market 2014 on how to improve their rankings. Anna Chomse, Industry Head at Google Travel and Andrew Jones, Head of Search Account Management at Yahoo! will be offering valuable advice on how to get to the top of the search engine listings.
Following the success of the inaugural event in 2013, the Travel Tech Show is 20% bigger this year, meaning it will retain its position as the largest dedicated travel technology event in the UK. The Search Engine Update Session will take place on Tuesday 4th November from 12.30 to 1.30pm in WTM Platinum Suite 3&4. A further six seminars for the Travel Tech Show will look at the latest technology,
mobile, big data and social media. Travel Tech Show at WTM Sales Manager, Jo Marshall said: “We’re delighted with this year’s line-up for The Travel Tech Show at WTM. Search Engine optimisation is central to the success of travel companies and Google and Yahoo! are best placed to inform delegates of the most effective strategies.”
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Saudi joins WTM for first time to grow tourism The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia will be represented at World Travel Market (WTM) in London for the first time in history, to promote tourism. The annual exhibition, which takes place from November 3rd to 6th this year, is the global flagship event for the travel industry. The Saudi presence at WTM signals the recently unveiled government plans to invest heavily in tourism over the coming decade. On the exhibition floor, the country’s national airline, Saudi Airlines and the leading low cost Saudi Airline, flynas, will be joining The Saudi Commission for Tourism & Antiquities to market the tourism potentials of the Kingdom. Last year a tourism and hospitality report stated that the Saudi government aims to invest over £18 billion in tourism from 2013 to 2023. The goal is to provide employment opportunities for Saudi graduates in preparation for the increasing number of tourists to the Kingdom which is expected to grow at an annual rate of two percent to 21.3 million over the next 10 years. Domestic tourism in Saudi is also increasing. Recent Ramadan festivals held in several regions around the Kingdom have seen more Saudis visiting different parts of the country with internal trips increasing from 19 million in 2012 to 23.8 million in 2013. Hamad Alsheikh, vice president for marketing and programmes at the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities commented: “Saudi aims to highlight the historic potentials of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia as a crossroad of civilisations through displaying part of its history, heritage, achievements and tourism potentials by way of print material and direct communication.” WTM Senior Exhibition Director Simon Press said: “I am delighted to see Saudi at World Travel Market this year for the first time; it’s great that the government has put the spotlight on tourism within the Kingdom and can see the huge potential and benefits it’s likely to reap.”
Two of the most controversial issues in the tourism industry will be addressed at the World Travel Market’s World Responsible Tourism Day – wildlife poaching and child protection. The programme which takes place on November 5th in ExCel, London opens with BBC’s Stephen Sackur who will interview co-founder of Wilderness Safaris, Colin Bell, and CEO of conservation charity Tusk, Charlie Mayhew. The interviews cover how the world should respond to the conservation crisis which, this year, has already seen more than 618 rhino killed in South Africa, with elephant and lion numbers also drastically reduced. Discussion will include Colin Bell’s proposal that a 1% levy be charged on all tourist accommodation and related services in South Africa. Following the World Responsible Tourism Awards, a Responsible Tourism Debate on Child Protection will take place, with a panel of experts including Willem Niemeijer, the founder and CEO of Khiri Travel Bangkok, and Bharti Patel CEO, ECPAT UK. The debate will address the question: “This House believes that the tourism industry could do a good deal more to take responsibility for child protection and urges it to do so.” In the past, WTM has highlighted many issues relating to child protection including internal trafficking of orphans in Cambodia, child labour, and sexual exploitation of children.
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WTM tackles controversial tourism issues
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NEWS
Struggling Biman makes losses on Frankfurt flights
Bangladesh’s government has confirmed there are no plans to stop Biman Airline flights to Frankfurt, despite the fact that the route has been making losses ever since its launch in March this year. The Minister for Civil Aviation and Tourism, Rashed Khan Menon said that the government was trying to find ways of making the flight more profitable, possibly by connecting the route with Bangkok.
The struggling national airline had resumed Frankfurt flights after an interval of seven years. Two weekly flights remain suspended since 2006 due to financial losses and shortage of aircraft. After flights resumed, it was reported that Biman has been losing Tk 7 million every week on the route. According to sources, Biman is also considering adding Kathmandu and Kolkata as connections on this route.
Air India strikes a deal The struggling flag carrier airway, Air India Ltd, has made a sale and leaseback deal with Deutsche Bank AG and the UK’s Investec Bank worth $600m. The deal involves the selling and leasing back of five Boeing B787 Dreamliner planes. The process is common in the airline industry, whereby airlines sell their planes to the lender and then lease them back for a fee in order to gain liquidity. In past deals Deutsche Bank has bought three Dreamliner planes from Air India while Investec has bought four. The Indian state-owned airline is expected to post an operating loss of R2,100 crore and a net loss of R3,900 crore for the year ended 31 March.
Co-Pilot ‘fiddled with controls’ before plane dropped A passenger jet plane travelling from Mumbai to Brussels dropped more than 5,000 feet in Turkish airspace as the co-pilot ‘fiddled with the controls’ according to investigators. The captain of the Jet Airways Boeing 777-300 was sleeping as per global airline norms, whilst the incident took place. The co-pilot claims she did not notice the drop in altitude as she was busy working on her electronic flight bag, a tablet which has all aircraft documents loaded onto it. India’s Directorate General of Civil Aviation has launched an investigation into the incident and is reviewing a repor t prepared by The Boeing Company which says the co-pilot fiddled with the controls before the drop occurred. The pilots received an emergency call from an air traffic controller in Ankhara who demanded to know why the aircraft had descended from its assigned height of 34,000. Air traffic over Turkey is currently busy as planes avoid the conflict zone over Iraq and Ukraine. The incident was not reported to the DGCA in a post flight report but the regulator later received an anonymous text message about the unscheduled descent. Both captain and co-pilot have been suspended pending the outcome of the investigation. A spokesman for Jet Airways said: “Safety is of paramount importance to Jet Airways, as is also the welfare of our guests and crew and airline will always take appropriate steps to ensure the same.”
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Biman appoints South African born CEO The new managing director (MD) and chief executive officer (CEO) of Biman Bangladesh Airlines is to be the South African-born CEO of Fastjet Plc, Kyle Haywood. The appointment has been approved by the Board of Directors of the national carrier. This was despite the fact the Civil Aviation and Tourism Minister, Rashed Khan Menon, had advised recruiting a Bangladesh national.
Biman had received 40 applications for the post of managing director and chief executive officer. Sources say that, of these, only 14 were Bangladeshi. Applicants were required to have a minimum of 20 years experience in aviation including 10 years in senior management or directorial role with detailed knowledge of marketing. Kyle Haywood has previously held high positions for British Airways, Air Arabia,
Etihad and Gulf Air, also serving as the CEO of Air Uganda. He faces a tough task, turning round Biman which has been a losing concern for two years. The post has been vacant since April as the former MD and CEO Kevin Steele, who was a British national, resigned on health grounds. Steele was appointed for a twoyear period with a monthly salary of Tk 18.30 lakh.
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NEWS
Fly Doha to Phuket non-stop via Qatar Airways
Passengers can look forward to exceptional levels of comfort on Qatar Airways new non-stop flights from Doha to Phuket in Thailand, effective from October 26th 2014. Currently, the airline has a stop off point at the Malaysian capital Kuala Lumpur and the new service will mean a shorter travel time for tourists heading to and from Thailand’s most famous beach resort. Direct flights will be via an Airbus A330 with seating in a two-class configuration of 24 in Business Class and 236 in Economy. Passengers will be able to relax in comfortable reclining seats whilst enjoying Qatar Airway’s awardwinning 5-Star hospitality. Qatar Airways Group Chief Executive Officer, His Excellent
Mr Akbar Al Baker said: “The start of non-stop services from Doha to Phuket offers travellers from around the world access to the most popular tourist destination in a reduced time, from across our expanding global network. “With the upcoming winter holidays, this is a great opportunity for travellers from the Middle East, Europe, Africa and the Americas to plan their break with a beach vacation to Phuket. Visitor numbers are on the rise and Qatar airways will look to take advantage of the non-stop connections to the city in days to come.” Qatar Airways first started operations in Thailand more than 14 years ago from Doha to Bangkok. The airline now serves the Thai capital three times daily with an increase to four times day planned from December 16th 2014. Thanks to the opening of the state-of-the-art Hamad International Airport in April 2014, Doha is a strategic linking point for passengers travelling from Phuket to Europe, in particular, the UK, Russia, Germany, France and Italy. The national airline of the State of Qatar has seen rapid growth in just 17 years of existence to the point where it is now flying a modern fleet of 135 aircraft to 144 key business and leisure destinations spanning Europe, the Middle East, Africa, Asia Pacific, North America and South America.
Emirates, the world’s biggest international carrier, marked 145 worldwide routes with its inaugural flight to Brussels in Belgium on 5th September, 2014. The service on the Boeing 777-200LR is Emirates 37th European passenger destination following the launch of Oslo in Norway earlier in the week. The airline expects that up to 16,000 customers will take the daily flight between Dubai and Brussels each month. In addition to further developing business links between Belgium and key markets in the Far East, the new flight is expected to be a major boost to tourism. Belgium is centrally placed in Europe and a popular stepping off point with
travellers from Australasia to access the rest of Europe. “We’ve had lots of customers asking us to fly to Brussels over the years so this is really fantastic news for them,” said Thierry Aucoc, Emirate’s Senior Vice President Commercial Operations Europe and Russian Federation. “Belgium’s tourism is thriving and we believe that we can drive demand even higher by providing great competition with our multi-award winning product and service,” “Emirates is the only airline offering First Class seats from Brussels to destinations in the Far and Middle East, providing an unrivalled premium experience for our passengers. As headquarters for a huge number of major global corporations, we are already seeing strong bookings from markets like China, the UAE, Japan and India, one of Belgium’s largest trade partners.” For passengers, there is also a bonus of a generous baggage allowance on all Emirates flights with 30km for those travelling in Economy Class, 40 km for Business Class and 50 km for First Class. Plus the promise of ,a box of twin Godiva chocolates the Belgian luxury chocolatier Godiva. More than 30 Belgian companies successfully operate in the UAE. Over €4 billion of goods are exchanged between the two countries each year with imports and exports growing steadily. The number of tourists to Brussels from the UAE has more than tripled since 2009. It is expected that the new direct link from Dubai to Brussels will grow this sector even further, as well as increasing inbound traffic from key markets in the Far East and Australasia.
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Emirates inaugural flight to Brussels
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Etihad Airways double daily service to Karachi Etihad Airways, the national airline of the United Arab Emirates (UAE), will be adding a new daily flight from Abu Dhabi to Karachi from 18th November 2014. The new service operated by a two-class Airbus A320 aircraft adds 1,904 new seats per week to the Abu DhabiKarachi route, giving passengers more flexibility when travelling between the UAE and Pakistan. The additional flights come as a result of strong passenger demand. Since the commencement of services in November 2004, more than one million passengers have travelled with Etihad Airways to and from Karachi. Etihad Airways will now offer 46 weekly return flights to four destinations in Pakistan including Lahore, Islamabad and Peshawar. The new service opens up 700 weekly connections to key destinations in Europe, the GCC,
Middle East and North America. Kevin Knight, Etihad Airways’ Chief Strategy and Planning Officer said that the additional flights would strengthen Etihad Airways’ presence in the Pakistani market and foster the growth of commercial and cultural relations between Pakistan and the UAE. “We believe the new flights will enable Etihad Airways to provide guests with more convenient travel options and timings, support the growth of business and leisure traffic over Abu Dhabi, and offer better flight connections on the global network,” he said. From September to mid-November 2014, in advance of the new double daily schedule, Etihad Airways will also offer additional seasonal services on the Abu Dhabi-Karachi route.
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Thailand’s PM warns of danger to tourists after beach murders Thailand’s Prime Minister, General Prayuth Chan-ocha, said that his country was not always as safe for foreign visitors as their homelands, following the murders of British backpackers David Miller (24) and Hannah Witheridge (23). The violent killings have dealt a bitter blow to the image of the Southeast Asian nation. Although police officials insist Thailand is still safe for tourists, they admit that nearly one week after the deaths, they still have no clear idea of what happened to the couple who met whilst on holiday. Their badly disfigured bodies were found on Koh Tao’s Sairee beach in the early hours of Monday 11th September. Police currently believe that a gang of at least “three attackers of Asian origin” was responsible for the killings. The story of the murders would have “all sorts of consequences for Thailand”, warned Prime Minister General Prayuth Chan-ocha. “What you (the media) need
to do is explain to foreigners that it is not always safe everywhere. They think it’s safe like where they are from everywhere and at any time but our country still has problems.” He went on to suggest that attractive female visitors wearing bikinis could not expect to be safe, a comment for which he later apologised after widespread condemnation. The tourist industry accounts for 10 per cent of Thailand’s economy. The country has yet to recover from the slump in visitors during the months of protests on the streets of Bangkok prior to the military coup on 22 May. In the first eight months of 2014, the number of tourists has fallen more than 10 per cent from a year ago to 15.7million. One of the reasons for this is that Thailand is still under martial law after the coup and there is difficulty in obtaining travel insurance for visitors in destinations where martial law is in place.
Foreign and Commonwealth Office advice The Foreign and Commonwealth Office has the following advice for tourists going to Thailand: “Western tourists have been victims of vicious, unprovoked attacks by gangs in Koh Phangan (an island near to Koh Tao). “These attacks are particularly common around the time of the Full Moon parties and generally occur late at night near bars in Haad Rin on Koh Phangan. “Violent assaults and robberies have been reported in the Koh Samui archipelago. Attacks have also occurred in other tourist districts in Thailand including Chiang Mai, Pattaya and Krabi. Take care, especially at night.”
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NEWS
Etihad launches new arrivals lounge in Abu Dhabi
VistaJet grows its fleet
Etihad Airways and has been launched following extensive research into the requirements of our First and Business Class Guests. “Once again we have benchmarked ourselves against some of the world’s leading hotels and restaurants, while placing the warmth of Arabian hospitality at the heart of the experience.” Etihad Airways currently operates a global network of 11 airport lounges, with future locations set to include New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Melbourne and Milan. More than 280,000 guests visited Etihad Airway’s lounges
between January and July 2014, an increase of over 20 per cent year on year.
VistaJet, the leading global business aviation company, is adding US $320 million pounds worth of new aircraft to its fleet as part of its ongoing worldwide expansion strategy. This represents the largest number of wide-body business jets to be delivered by plane manufacturer Bombardier to a single customer within a 30-day period. The eight new jets include three Bombardier Global aircraft as well as three Challenger 605 jets and two Challenger 350 jets. This is in addition to five Global aircraft added in the first half of this year. VistaJet plans to take delivery of a further 12 jets including three Global 6000(i), four Challenger 350 and five Challenger 605
aircraft at a total value of US $447.5 million by the end of the fourth quarter. By the end of the year, the fleet of in-service aircrafts will have grown to 45 as fleet renewal continues in US, Africa and Asia. VistaJet had its best summer season to date with the volume of flights up 21% for the January to August period and September on track to be another record month. Africa continues to be VistaJet’s fastest growth region while expansion in the US and Asia-Pacific remains a priority with capacity at an all time high. Business in Russia and CIS also remains strong and VistaJet is positioned to reach its target revenue growth of 20-25% by the year end.
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A luxurious new Arrivals Lounge has been launched by Etihad Airways at Abu Dhabi International Airport. The lounge is the first Arrivals Lounge in the world to be operated by Etihad Airways and is for the exclusive use of the airline’s First and Business Class passengers. The stylish and modern facility is situated conveniently immediately after customs and includes 10 revitalising shower units with first class amenities and a dedicated area where guests can freshen up before leaving the airport. For crumpled passengers, there’s also a complimentary service for clothes steaming with garments such as suits and dresses returned within 10 minutes. A new SHAVE concept offers guests with early morning arrivals the opportunity to get rid of overnight stubble with a complimentary wet shave by professional barbers. A high spec relaxation area includes high comfort seating, large screen televisions, various newspapers, magazines and books. And there’s also an onsite business facility which includes large-screen Apple computer, printer and complimentary broadband, wireless and internet connections. Throughout the day café style refreshments are served up by the culinary team with a delicious breakfast in the morning and range of hot and cold beverages, canapés, snacks and sweet treats inspired by flavours from around the world. Peter Baumgartner, Chief Commercial Officer of Etihad Airways said: “Our latest airport lounge is a milestone for
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NEWS
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Unique chocolate experience comes to Qatar Duty free Visitors to Qatar Duty Free at Hamad International Airport in Doha will now be able to indulge in a little chocolate retail therapy before boarding the plane. Chocology is a brand new concept that raises the (chocolate) bar in confectionary retailing. The counter is operated by the premium Belgian chocolatier, Godiva and combines the best they have to offer worldwide with a theatrical flourish. With handmade products that range from seasonal chocolate and Belgian biscuits to exclusive gift boxes and chocolate hampers, travellers are given a one-off opportunity to engage all their senses in a unique world of chocolate discovery. The counter’s five sections are manned 24/7 by professionals trained in Brussels by Godiva’s Chief Chocolatier. The freshly made in-
store section includes individually decorated seasonal treats dipped in chocolate. Fine Belgian biscuits, savoury as well as sweet, are presented in attractive tin boxes and are ideal for gifts. Meanwhile the chocolate case hosts a wide range of exquisite chocolates and truffles including three unique chocolate creations made exclusively for Chocology. The world famous Godiva Chocolixir drink is also available, either hot or cold, in six indulgent varieties. Customers looking for that very special gift to take home need look no further than the Chocology luxurious gift section where they can choose from a range of exclusive gift boxes designed in peacock blue and stunning chocolate hampers. “We are very proud to be chosen
as preferred partner by Qatar Duty Free to realise their new retail concept for Hamad International Airport,” said Godiva General Manager Global Travel Retail, Christoph Neusser. “Not only is it a great opportunity to introduce travellers to the entire world of Godiva, a dedicated team of chefs, designers and marketers worked hard on bringing this extraordinary chocolate experience to life. It is very exciting to see that the first results are positive and outperforming expectations.” Godiva is one of more than 30 food and beverage outlets available from Qatar Duty Free at HIA. Set out over an area of 40,000 square metres, a further 70 retail outlets ensure that there is something for everyone who passes through the airport.
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NEWS
Countries in South Asia need to work on joint tourism packages to attract more visitors, said diplomats and industry experts at the third Asian Tourism Fair in Dhaka. At the event, co-organised by Parjata Bichitra, Bangladesh Tourism Board and Bangladesh Parjatan Corporation, speakers were united about the need to develop inter-regional cooperation to make tourists more aware of the vast array of sightseeing attractions in countries such as Bangladesh, Nepal, Sri Lanka and India. It was noted that although over 36million people visit Turkey annually, the figures for South Asian countries are often lower because of bad roads, lack of marketing and unavailability of tours. Hari Kumar Shresha, ambassador of Nepal to Bangladesh said it was time to focus on promoting inter-regional tourism and suggested package tours could feature two destinations: “Nepal has Mount Everest, the highest mountain, whereas Bangladesh has Cox’s Bazar, the world’s longest natural sandy sea beach,” he said. Aparup Chowdhury, chairman of Bangladesh Parjatan Corporation agreed that Asia was considered an important sightseeing destination due to its rich variety of tourist spots and rapid economic growth. Malaysia’s high commissioner to Bangladesh, Norlin Binti Othman spoke about how
tourists make plans to visit multiple destinations. Bangladesh, India, Nepal and Sri Lanka should integrate their tour packages to lure in more tourists. Governments should also promote beauty spots and cultural buildings. “You have lots of beautiful places, but if you do not share it, how will tourists know,” she continued. The secretary of the civil aviation and tourism ministry Khurshed Alam Chowdhury, made a special mention of the need to encourage tourists to visit rural Bangladesh to discover the unique hospitality and cultural diversity. Around 120 tourist organisations, airlines, tour operators, hotels, resorts, and representatives of foreign embassies of eight countries, participated in the three-day fair which took place from 11-13th September at Dhaka’s Bangabandhu International Conference Centre. The event was held to develop the link between outbound and inbound tour operators and other stakeholders in Asia.
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South Asian countries should work together on tourism, say diplomats
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ISTANBUL
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NEWS
Passenger goes for BA Gold in five days A self-confessed “airline geek” from Epping has earned his British Airways gold card the hard way by flying 18,479 miles in five days. Adam Rowland, 30, documented his journey on his online blog (vegadventure.weekly.com), after announcing that he intended to achieve a BA gold in less than a week. The online marketing manager from Epping who admits he is “slightly obsessed” with frequent flyer programmes, undertook the epic journey when he realised he would never “get to Gold the long way round”. He also wanted to face some of his personal “self limiting behaviours” including a “white-knuckle fear of turbulence” and “seeking pleasure and company in strangers.” “It might not be the most conventional way of spending a long weekend, but then again I’ve never been much of a fan of convention,” he said. The mammoth journey of 12 flights started at London City Airport and included the following routes: 1. London City to Amsterdam 2. Amsterdam to Heathrow 3. Heathrow to Boston 4. Boston to Los Angeles 5. Los Angeles to Honolulu 6. Honolulu to Los Angeles 7. Los Angeles to Washington Dulles
8. Washington Dulles to Charlotte 9. Charlotte to New York 10. New York to London City Five days later, having spent 45 hours in the air, covering 18,479 miles and visiting seven cities in three countries, Adam’s feet were firmly on the ground again in London City. He was subsequently presented with his precious prize of a Gold Card, when British Airways rolled out the red carpet in the lavish surroundings of the Galleries First Lounge in T5. Gold card membership benefits include first class lounges, travel spas, priority boarding and check-in, and discounts from partner corporations including Mandarin Oriental and Langham Hotels. To qualify, passengers have to garner a total of 1,500 tier points. Summing up the journey on his blog, Adam said “Miraculously I experienced very little delays, didn’t miss any connections and succeeded in getting gold. “It was one of the most unique and enjoyable experiences I’ve had the privilege to undertake, made particularly great by all the hard working and professional airline employees I came across. “Would I do it again? Definitely! Although, next time I’d combine it with longer stops and more relaxing breaks where I could catch up on my sleep.”
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IMPERIAL INDIA 22 Travel Life
By ARCHISMAN DINDA
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Rashtrapati Bhavan
he British had a lasting impact on Indian architecture, as they saw themselves as the successors to the Mughals and used architecture as a symbol of power. They brought in the world view, which made the indigenous architecture more vibrant and was later known as Indo-Saracenic architecture. In a country with a history as old as India, the architectural heritage of the two centuries is hardly a summation of the past, especially when, the distant
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Tranquebar, now Tharangambadi in Tamilnadu and Serampore in West Bengal. The French gave a distinct urban design to its settlement in Pondicherry by applying the Cartesian grid plans and classical architectural patterns. However, it was the British who left a lasting impact on the India architecture. They saw themselves as the successors to the Mughals and used architecture as a symbol of power. When the British government had to consolidate its position in India, a whole new architecture was developed. In the eclecticism of the age, English designers, disgusted with the classical and mediaeval styles of Europe's past thought fit for his particular purpose, had turned back to the native vernacular traditions and produced the so-called 'Free-Style', hybrid but non-historicist. However, it is particularly difficult to see colonial buildings as being a part of our past since even today; they are in active use in India. Indo-British architecture is characterised by structures which are monuments and many functional buildings which have
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Mumbai Railway Station
past is easier to recognise and appreciate that the recent past. Indian subcontinent has been invaded ever since the times of Aryans. The invaders always attracted by richness of her natural resources, craftsmanship of her countrymen and glory of an already flourishing reign. The Europeans interest with India persisted since the classical times. The expedition of Vasco da Gamma to discover India in 1498 to the Dutch in 1590 and then the East India Company in 1600. Like all other aspects, colonization of Indian also had an impact on architecture style. With colonization, a new chapter in Indian architecture began. Europeans brought with them their world view and a whole understanding of European architecture NeoClassical, Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance. The Portuguese architecture adapted the country’s climate appropriately, giving rise to Iberian galleried patio house, the Baroque churches of Goa, Se Cathedral and Arch of Conception. The Danish influence is evident in Nagapatnam, which was laid out in squares and canals and also in
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monumental characteristics. Writer’s building in Kolkata, the Delhi Town Hall, the New Delhi secretariat, the Victoria Terminus now rechristened as Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus in Mumbai and many more which are now termed as “Heritage Buildings’, continues to serve the nation and serves as a testament of the triumphant of Britain’s conquest of India. Erstwhile Bombay, Calcutta and Madras, now Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai, and of course Delhi happens to have the largest culture of colonial structure in India, since they were the capitals of the three British presidencies, and Delhi from 1912 the capital of the empire. Delhi’s morphology has the stamp of two imperial decision – that of Mughal’s decision to shift their capital from Agra to Delhi and later that of the British from Calcutta. Imperial Durbar at New Delhi was inaugurated by the British in 1931. Like Calcutta, it was stamped with the hallmark of authority and like most other seats of British power in India it stood apart from its predecessors. The prevailing enthusiasm of Anglo-Indian imperial designers for the synthesis of eastern and western styles quailed before the problem of assimilating an urban order, devised in accordance with the principles of the modern English Garden City, and the vital chaos of Shahjahanabad: the latter seemed to be the very embodiment of all the evils of laissez-faire growth that the formulators of the Garden City movement most specifically deplored.
Sir Edwin Lutyens, who is credited for designing New Delhi, had arrived in India to undertake this great work had scant respect for the subcontinent's architectural legacy. His views grew only the more derogatory with first-hand familiarity - especially with the Anglo-Indian Imperial hybrids developed by his immediate predecessors, but also with the traditions of 'veneered joinery' from which those hybrids were drawn. Lutyens' imperial eclecticism ranged from Wren's St Stephen's Walbrook (for the Viceroy's library) to the Mahastupa at Sanchi (for the central cupola) and the chahar bagh. However, at the end of his trip, he took in the ubiquitous Indian ‘chattriand chadya’, cross-fertilized acanthus and volute with padma and bell for his Order and tethered Indian elephants at salient portal corners where the great ancient Mesopotamian monarchies had ceremonial syncretism winged monsters. New Delhi as envisioned by Lutyens, was laid out fivekilometres south of Old Delhi on a well-drained site standing slightly above the level of the surrounding plain. The resulting complex is a spacious, attractive, and carefully planned city, with broad, tree lined avenues and many open areas, parks, gardens, and fountains. Many of New Delhi's best-known landmarks lie on a line running east to west through the city. The line starts at the National Stadium. Then it passes through the Children's Park and the War Memorial Arch along the impressive Raj Path, through Central Vista Park, to Rashtrapati Bhavan (the residence of the president of India). A similar line running north-south, known as
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1. Job Charnock's mausoleum 2. St. John Church 3. Delhi Town Hall
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"Janpath," goes from the main shopping centre, Connaught Place, to residential suburbs. Several districts retain their own character. The Civil Lines, originally laid out to house British colonial officials, is now a residential area for well-off Indian government officials. On the other hand, the hybrid aspect of the style devised by Sir Scott for Bombay - though still essentially foreign and historicist - was a crucial pointer for builders to move away from a narrow cultural chauvinism towards Indian traditions. To that extent, it was reformative. However, the synthesis were to evolve, was far from rejecting overt allusion to the monumental styles of the past, added a resounding new dimension to historicist eclecticism in a truly imperial style. The energetic Governor, Sir Bartle Frere of which Scott’s buildings were so significant a product, launched a public building campaign in Bombay in the second half of the 1860’s. The campaign opened with the Decorated Gothic scheme for the rebuilding of St. Thomas's Cathedral by the Government Architect, James Trubshawe. This was only partially realized, but Trubshawe made a weighty contribution, in collaboration with W. Paris, in the General Post and Telegraph Office of 1872. Of other landmarks produced by the campaign, William Emerson's Crawford Markets - in an elementary northern Gothic delineated in the various coloured stones, which contributed so much to the success of the Gothic Revival in Bombay - reflected the ideals of the early design reformers at home more nearly than any other prominent Anglo-Indian building of the period. For the Public Works Secretariat, Colonel Henry St Clair Wilkins, Royal Engineers, followed Scott's lead with a Venetian Gothic design in 1877 and his colleague Colonel John Fuller mixed Venetian and early English for the stupendous High Court of 1879. The culminating masterpieces of the series, increasingly hybrid in style, are Frederick Stevens' works, especially Victoria Terminus, the headquarters of the Great Indian Peninsular Railway. Other famous landmarks in Mumbai are the Gateway of India. This huge arch commemorates the visit of King George V to India in 1911. The original white
plaster design was replaced in 1927 by an arch of yellow stone in a mixture of Gujarati, Islamic, and European architectural styles. Other public buildings in Western neoclassical style include the Mint and the Town Hall. While the attention of Scott and his Bombay followers was focused on Venice, the Government Architect Walter Granville ruptured the Classical decorum of Calcutta with an excursion into the arena favoured by Street at home and based the construction of Calcutta High Court (1872) on the Cloth Hall at Ypres. He also showed his versatility not only at turning a corner - in the splendid General Post Office which, if classical in the purity of its forms, is certainly Baroque in scale and movement. For the Victoria Memorial at the other end of the Maidan, William Emerson embarked upon a quixotic attempt to rival the Taj Mahal. It was built of a similar luscious material but the alien forms, extruded from postBramante schemes for St Peter's, Rome, hover between Mannerist and Baroque. The Victoria Memorial, built between 1906 and 1921, is a huge structure in the Renaissance style, faced with white marble. It seeks to mingle classical, Western, and Mughal influences. The memorial contains Queen Victoria's piano and writing desk and a fine collection of portraits of Anglo-Indian leaders. Another interesting structure is the Ochterlony Monument, a granite column 46 metres high. In Calcutta and Madras such are the mansions and club houses of Chowringhi and Adyar, respectively, with their high ceilings and verandahs. Native merchants went even further with their houses. Most spectacular by far, is the Zimindari Mullick's 'Marble Palace' in Calcutta, with its astonishing classical interpretation of diwan and court. Many imposing structures still stand as monuments to British rule in India. They include the Raj Bhavan, the official residence of the governor of the state of West Bengal, which was modelled on Kedleston Hall, a great house in Derbyshire, in the United Kingdom. The Writers' Building, a civil service headquarters, and the High Court are fine buildings in the Gothic style. The General Post Office and the Town Hall are built in neoclassical style.
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Skyline at Rajiv Chowk
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Profile
Air Express touches the sky
Air Express is the UK’s premier Bangladeshi travel agent. For more than 21 years this family owned and run business has been transporting British-Bangladeshis back to the mother country. Today, the agency that started as a bucket shop has become more bucket list. Respected by airlines and customers alike, over 70% of Air Express’s business now comes from mainstream markets. With more than 50 destinations to choose from, the company specialises in locations in the US, Middle East and Indian sub-continent. Flight, hotels, holiday packages, tours and car hire can be arranged in cities including New York, San Francisco, Dubai, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Singapore and Perth. Travel Life spoke to Muzirul Haque about the business’s astronomical success …
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A
s a teenager Muzirul Haque found that trading was his passion. Joining the family business, a travel agency, was the last thing on his mind.
He explained: “I was a trader in fancy goods as a young man, I had a market stall as a retail outlet and I sold wholesale to other traders, sometimes I'd just make pennies but I'd do high volume and I loved it.” His father, Mohammed Abdul Hannan, ran the travel agency in Princelet Street near Brick Lane. The business was growing in reputation and had gained ATOL accreditation, but when his business partner decided to go his own way, Mohammed asked Muzirul if he wanted to join the company. “My dad saw the potential in the travel business.
”
Back then, around 2001, I was 23 and the travel agencies were mostly bucket shops, we were selling tickets mostly to the Bangladeshi community with flights on Bangladesh airline, Biman and at that time the family leader made all the decisions. “I hated it.”
Fortunately, Mohammed Abdul Hannan was able to convince his son that the business could grow from being just a high street shop to an empire. From then on, the passion Muzirul had shown for trading began to be channelled into the company. Air Express is now not only a leader in the Bangladesh sector, it is respected by airlines and customers alike, over 70% of Air Express’s business now comes from mainstream markets. With more than 50 destinations to choose from.
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“
There’s one thing my dad has always known about me and that is that when I want something I won’t let go, for me, there is no such thing as second position.
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“I owe everything to my father,' said Muzirul, “he advised me and still to this day everything I do I get advice from Dad.” Back in 2001, Muzirul believed the travel business was stuck in the past and many Bangladesh operators were their own worst enemy by refusing to change. “I suddenly realised ‘why am I buying from other travel agents and selling tickets on?’ I knew we had to expand into other markets.” The first step was when he applied for an IATA license, the International Air Transport Association (the global trading association for the airline industry), without which it was impossible to deal direct with airlines. This was
“I decided I didn’t want to be a corner shop, I wanted to be a high street shop so I got the premises in Whitechapel. There were plenty of others bidding for it along with me, but to me it was worth anything to get the image and branding we needed.” How does Muzirul account for his success in the face of fierce competition and economic downturn? With over 50 destinations to choose from Muzirul explains that the business is spread over seven continents so if one market dips, he still has others to draw on, a policy that has served him well through the recession. Crucially, Muzirul’s vision included yoking marketing to the speed of digital technology. By then, his younger brother Mizanul Haque had
The Team not an easy feat in 2002 - agents had to complete courses and achieve pass rates. In the aftermath of 9/11, there were also stringent security checks on premises.
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At that time there were only three other Bangladeshi travel agents with IATA accreditation in the UK but Muzirul wanted to go a step further. He explained: “Qatar Airline was the first airline I ever got a deal with. I did a lot of marketing for them and they had seen the volume of customers I could supply and how we had changed and developed the business. Obviously it was to their advantage as well and I ended up winning many awards with them.”
graduated from Queen Mary university and, with a good background in business finance and IT, was asked to join the business. “Technology wise, we knew he could take the business to the next level,” said Muzirul. “That left me to take over the airlines and marketing side of the business. The two brothers started to develop the online potential of the business: “I realised I should be selling holidays on the internet. We began to seriously work on our brand, running TV campaigns and building the website.” A key decision was to begin to offer high-end holidays as well as flights, targeting business professionals. In this way the company was able
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Muzirul Haque
“We were very lucky; we started selling to other destinations such as Bangkok. Rather than compete with the big tour operators we decided to specialise, after all you can't please all the market.” Destinations were hand picked in key areas around the globe to take advantage of both established and emerging economies. Routes included flights to New York, San Francisco and LA in America, Saudi, Dubai and Abu Dhabi in the Middle East and Dhaka, Bangkok and Hong Kong in the Far East. They also developed full itinerary holidays and holidays in countries like Jordan and the UAE and an attractive discount policy. Astute marketing, the use of social media and an all-singing, dancing website run by Muzirul’s brother, Mizanul, over the past 10 years has helped grow the company from a staff of four to a workforce of 36, with call-centres in Bangladesh. They have 130 sub agents all over UK. “Our best recommendation can be seen on our website,” continues Muzirul. “There is an
independent global review site called Feefo. If anyone purchases anything online they can send an email and their reviews are posted on the site. Like Trip Advisor, if anyone posts anything bad about you can’t remove it. We received the accolade 100% trusted merchant in 2013 and our reviews for 2014 are 90% positive - even the bad ones mainly relate to things which are beyond our control.” A branch has opened in Ilford and there are plans to open more in Birmingham, Luton, Norwich, Manchester and Newcastle. And by making full use of price comparison websites, such as Skyscanner and travelsupermarket.com, and blogging, the brothers have seen Air Express's turnover business rise from £13m to a projected £100m in next few years, says Muzirul. His golden day came three years' ago when his seven-year wait to win a dealership from Emirates came on his son's birthday on 22nd June. Muzirul had been chasing the airline since 2004. “When I want something, I don't stop,” he laughed. “We think of ourselves as market leaders, they can copy us but they can't be Air Express.”
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to ride out both the political crisis in Bangladesh and the recession in this country.
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Ramoji Film City
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a land where dreams are made
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Travel Life’s chief editor Syed Nahas Pasha caught up with Mr Ramoji Rao, chairman of Ramoji Film City in Hyderabad, India’s only thematic holiday destination that rivals Hollywood, Bollywood, and Disneyland all rolled into one.
We asked the businessman and film producer, Mr Rao, more about this land of celluloid dreams for the young and not-soyoung; the only place in the world where a budding film maker can ‘walk in with a script and walk out with a canned film…’
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Set up in 1996 by the Ramoji Group, the Film City is now not only the biggest of its kind in the world, it also has the largest film studio, certified by The Guinness Book of Records. Every year over 1.5 million tourists visit the park’s many attractions whilst others attempt to create India’s next blockbuster at the world class film-making facilities.
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ravel Life: Please tell us about your vision for Ramoji Film City and why you have established it here in Hyderabad, Telangana? In the process of film production, each minute costs huge money. Having settled the cast and crew, the producer has too many tasks at hand. From location scouting to accommodation, from make-up to costumes, from craft services to crowd management, from outdoor shooting arrangements to indoor shooting facilities, from cameras to postproduction services, the list of requirements is quite daunting. As a film maker myself, with an experience of making more than 85 films, I am quite aware of the trials and travails involved in film-making. One has to go from pillar to post to get the film completed. Completing the film in time has become a rarity as most of the time is wasted on identifying the right place and the right person to complete the varied tasks involved. I saw a great opportunity in this adversity. I planned a comprehensive film studio with
all amenities provided at one place. That is how Ramoji Film City came into being. You can walk-in with the script, walk-out with a completed and canned film within the timelimit you have set for yourself. Everything is made available at one place. Adjudged as the World’s Largest by the Guinness Book of World Records, Ramoji Film City has the most comprehensive facilities designed and developed by world-class professionals and experts in the fields of architecture and landscape designing. There are nearly 50 big and medium sized shooting stages. There are more than 50 landscapes, gardens and styles which offer a wide variety of shooting sequences. From Masjid Galli to Ramborose Hindu Galli, from Gurunanak Street to Princess Street, there are 24 most varied settings of streets and avenues inside the Film City. Parade, the prop shop and many more amenities are also part of it. This is all found in a most serene and most secure ambience. Our fool-proof security arrangements have made the Film City a favourite destination for film makers.
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The Telugu film industry is popular as Tollywood. It is ranked 2nd in the Indian film industry after the Hindi film industry, which is usually referred to as Bollywood. According to the official statistics for the year 2012, as many as 1602 films were made in India out of which 256 were Telugu. The number of films made annually has been steadily growing. The Telugu land has highest number of cinema theaters in the country. Watching films in theatre is still a favourite mode of entertainment here. Travel Life: Please tell us about the key tourist attraction spots for young visitors to the Film City? Ramoji Film City has several attractions for both the young, in terms of age, and the young at heart, irrespective of age. The fun and amusement commences with Eureka, modelled on the lines of royal medieval forts, with themed bazaars for shopping, a battery of thematic restaurants and children’s play courts. One can also experience the magnificence of Mughals, the majesty of Mauryas, the ruggedness of the
American Wild West and the pomp of the medieval Meena Bazaar here. At Eureka, visitors, particularly young people and little ones, can enjoy special rides like dashing-cars, bungee trampoline, rangers, break-dance, twisters and thriller rides. There are several attractions like the Ramoji Movie Magic, Filmy Duniya and Ramoji Tower, where visitors can discover the intricate tricks and behind-the-scene activities in film-making. At Ramoji Tower visitors can experience the mild tremors of the earth quakes and several other acoustic effects. Fundustan is the Children’s Play Area with a vast array of attractions packaged under single roof. Borasura, the first ever themed walk-through is an unforgettable experience. We have a 7,200 square feet Butterfly Park that hosts a wide variety of butterflies. Vaman, the Bonsai Bonanza is a delightful, collection of 132 species of Bonsai plants. Wings, the Bird Park gives an invigorating experience of the natural world. Apart from them, Ramoji Film City has live shows, opening ceremony, closing ceremony, extravaganza laser show and the stunt show
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Travel Life: We know the Indian film industry is the biggest after Hollywood. In India you have Bollywood and films in regional languages. What proportion is it in Telugu?
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of Wild Wild West as depicted in the Hollywood cowboy movies. Dazzling performance shows, choreographed exquisitely at Spirit of Ramoji, showcase the eclectic cultural aspects of the country. The majestic Bhagavatham Set with its dazzling display of characters drawn from the ancient Indian epic is held to be the finest representation of the epic of yore revered by millions. To pamper the taste buds there are multicuisine thematic restaurants dotted around, and you can also shop from a variety of boutiques selling merchandise. Travel Life: Do you have any special packages for British film makers to come and shoot at Ramoji Film City? Our packages are designed on the basis of the requirement and duration of the service. We always work out a very cost effective package for foreign film makers. The budget is usually only a fraction of what foreign film-makers spend on film making in their own country. Travel Life: What is your future expansion plan at the Film City?
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Ramoji Film City has been constantly evolving right from its inception. Initially, it was only meant for film-makers; its gates were thrown open to tourists only subsequently. Today there are a number of tourist attractions like Fundustan, Ramoji Movie Magic, exhilarating rides of various kinds, Ballerina Fount, Eureka, Bharat Hamara etc. For bird watchers, we have recently launched a Bird Park comprising exotic aviary species. We are about to launch a very exuberant adventure land with a lot of attractions like Bungee Ejection, Rope Course, Net Course, Mountain Biking, All Terrain Vehicle rides and Zorbing with a 220 ft tall zorb platform which is the longest in the country. Project OM is another project in the conduit. This envisages construction of a unique spiritual city with exact replicas of India’s most famous temples. Set across more than 200 acres, this spiritual city will offer a perfect ambience for spiritual people in search of tranquillity where we plan to construct more than 100 temples. Every temple will follow its own schedule of activities like special pujas and Brahmotsavs. Mega sized mandapas for spiritual discourses, resting places, large number of eateries for pilgrims are planned. This section alone is expected to attract a footfall of one lakh pilgrims.
Travel Life: Please tell us your vision about future of the tourism industry in India. As you are aware, India has a very rich and diverse historic and cultural heritage. There is tremendous potential for tourism development in our country. There is no parallel in the World to India’s cultural and culinary diversity. Every state represents a unique cultural domain, but there is that basic ‘Indianness’ like the unseen thread that unites the flowers of various hues in a garland. The fact should be accepted that we could not properly showcase to the world this great heritage. Very unfortunately the government hitherto has not paid the required attention to this subject. As a result India could not take its pride of place in the world tourism. However, there is optimism in the stance taken by the new government at the centre. It seems the new government has recognized the country’s tourism potential. It seems to be all poised to focus its attention on promoting tourism in India. I hope things will change and India will occupy its much deserving place in the world tourism map. Travel Life: Any plans to include health tourism in your ongoing packages? Yes, we are getting into the thriving medical realms of wellness and cosmetology in a big way. We are going to launch one of the world’s finest wellness centres that will deal with aspects like anti-ageing, rejuvenation, obesity and various other wellness related aspects. We have already set-up the basic infrastructure for a cosmetic centre and have lined-up renowned cosmetologists to serve our high-profile clientele like film stars and others. Travel Life: Are there any special packages available for the UK tourist? Every year, a large number of foreign tourists visit Ramoji Film City. They experience the thrill of being in a carefree atmosphere here because of our elaborate security arrangements and hospitality facilities. We design packages for foreign tourists on the basis of the size of the visiting group. Travel Life: You are involved in hospitality and media. Please tell us about your involvement. I have been residing at the Film City ever since its inception. Most of my attention is focused on the Film City. My involvement in other activities has been restricted due to my preoccupation with the Film City. However, media remains my first love. I am in live contact with both my TV and print
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Travel Life: You are a very successful businessman in India. Have you ever thought of expanding business abroad, may be in UK or have you any business interest in UK? There is no dearth of opportunities around the world. But we have to accept human
limitations also. I am already 77. Therefore, my present business interests are confined to India only. Travel Life: Are there any investment opportunities for foreign investors at Ramoji Film City? So far we have not gone for any foreign investment. As we go ahead with our expansion activities, we may accept foreign investment as and when required in future.
To find out more about Ramoji Film City visit www.ramojifilmcity.com/
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media. All the facilities related to ETV channels are situated here at the Film City. Naturally, I pay considerable attention to the goings on at ETV. Eenadu, the newspaper launched over four decades ago has bloomed into an institution. Though it does not seek my constant attention, I still look after the editorial and policy matters.
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Why Indians love to visit Britain The UK and India’s rich and varied shared past has left a legacy of deep and common bonds – historical, social, economic and cultural. When comes to tourism, Britain is where Indian visitors want to be. Our correspondent Archisman Dinda explores.
Asian ladies walking on Malvern Hills. Photo: Visit Britain
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By ARCHISMAN DINDA In India, the month of May is the cruellest. The short spring is already a distant memory, and the heat- and dust-quelling monsoon rains are still weeks away. There's no better time for Indians to take to the road. And they do so in droves travelling far and wide across the globe in search of that proverbial fairytale holiday. Some 550 million Indians travel to other parts of the country each year. Once school lets out for the summer, many families set off on annual visits to grandparents in their native town or village. Another 12 million Indians choose to fly overseas. Though off late nouveau riche flock to cosmopolitan meccas like Switzerland or Dubai, where women can indulge in brandname shopping, but when it to showing off club class, it London that still rules. The ‘word’ resonates with all that is foreign, as London, more than any other city, seems to dominate our sense of the world outside. Our history and English books made more references to this one city than all the other world’s cities together. And then there were all the Blytons and Dickens that referred to London with barely-suppressed excitement.
Besides, it was the seat of kings and queens, with stories set in palaces and the backdrop for the tale of a tragic modern princess. Could a place be any more fascinating? Bollywood plays its part too, particularly films like ‘Dilwale Dulhaniya Le Jayenge’ and that awful Non Resident Indian - film phase that followed. You can’t be force-fed the same beautiful sights – Trafalgar Square, Big Ben, Tower Bridge, Westminster Abbey – again and again without somehow developing a sense of ownership about them. These sights seem to belong as much to our imagination as they did to a city that Indians love to visit. But many will question this undulating fascination for London. London is pretty but Paris is prettier; it is stylish but Barcelona does style better; it has restaurants but we do better food in India; and yes, it has good shopping options but it’s no Milan. “There is a sense of ownership that comes if you work long for an organisation. India was long under British rule and over years we have developed a sense that we also have right over the country,” believes Rahul Sen, who conducts annual tour to England from Kolkata.
Bristol - Avon Gorge and Clifton Suspension Bridge at sunset Photo: GARY NEWMAN
Buckingham Palace. Photo: Visit Britain
Cheshire Little Morton Hall. Photo: Visit Britain
Also the familiarity of the sights and sounds makes it easier for many of us. No other city in the world comes closer to an Indian city, than London especially if you are from Mumbai or Kolkata. And it is a feeling worth enjoying. So, if you are visiting. Walk from Westminster to Green Park, if you can, and just enjoy the sense of familiarity that will wash over you. Also cultural familiarities like theatre, the musicals, the museums, the literature events, clubs, music gigs, comedy shows, makes the city closer to Indian hearts. Of course, other cities have these too. But London has more and, importantly, all of it is in English. That’s something that you won’t get in any other city in Europe. In India, we tend to view cultural activities as the preserve of the elite. They go to see theatre, they visit museums, and they attend literary events and art openings with fancy wines and canapes. But London is different. Over years, a great effort has gone into making art and culture as widely available as possible. Posters of big art shows appear on taxis and plays are advertised in the metro stops. Museums are wonderful, lively, interactive spaces that are as inviting to ordinary people – with no real background in art – as they are too the connoisseurs from the art world. Most major national museums - many of which are free to enter - will accompany their exhibitions with guided talks that explain the art in everyday language, often relating it to people, events and politics that we can comprehend. Food with the thousands of Indian curry houses plays a critical role and many Indians wonder where to find a decent vegetarian meal if travelling to Moscow. “I sometimes wonder if Indian travellers munch more of fish and chips that the average Londoner. From the moment we touchdown, the demand for fish and chips is unrelenting till the flight back home. Also streets like Baker Street famed for Arthur Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Homes are a much visit for many Indians,” added Sen. Fleet Street, Oxford Street, Regent Street fall in the must-see destination for many.
Great Britain knows our fascination, and with a view to further strengthen its position in the India market, VisitBritain, the national tourism agency of Britain, recently kick-started its road show the GREAT Tourism Week (GTW) in the country. GTW, which started on July 7, 2014 in Kolkata is being held across nine cities and concluded in Chennai on August 29, 2014. This road show provided an opportunity and a platform to the Indian travel agents and tour operators to forge business ties with over 15 UK tourism suppliers, such as British Airways, VisitManchester, Luxury Hotels Group, Elevate Holidays, Café Royal, London, etc. “There was an 11 per cent increase in tourist arrivals from India to Britain in 2013 with 375,000 Indians visiting the country. We aim to reach 5,00,000 visitors by 2020,” stated Shivali Suri, country manager, VisitBritain adding that Indians had spent a record 441 million pounds last year in Britain showing a growth of 32 per cent. When asked about the plans to increase air connectivity from India to Britain, Shalini Sharma, manager corporate sales, British Airways stated, “There are presently two daily flights from Delhi and Mumbai and one daily flight from Hyderabad. However, we are trying to make that double daily too, which will happen sometime in the near future.” Apart from promoting London, the road show also focused on popularising other destinations of Britain. “Manchester is an ideal destination for all tourists due to its ideal location and connectivity with London. It has ample shopping and nightlife attractions, museums, historic landmarks, etc apart from the famed Manchester United club,” opined Mohit Batra, India representative, VisitManchester. As for their marketing strategies, Suri stated, “We'll be focusing on the B2B side and will provide more access through campaigns with airlines and bus carriers, like Emirates and Etihad. Also we’ll be organising FAM trips for various travel agencies,” added Suri. The Bollywood Britain app that was launched earlier this year will also be updated to enhance the image of Britain for the Indian traveller.
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Travel Life’s 10 Best Beaches 1. Oludeniz (Blue) Lagoon - Fethiye, Turkey
Despite its popularity with British and German tourists, this beach remains one of the most beautiful in the world. It’s located on the aptly named Turquoise coast of southwest Turkey at the meeting of the Aegean and Mediterranean Seas. With blue, clear water backed by stunning mountains, an array of restaurants and hotels are close at hand. You may have to dodge the paragliders as they come into land from Babadag mountain, but if escape is required, a short trip around the rocky peninsula takes you to the solitude and tranquillity of Kidrak Bay.
The waves gently roll up the shore, warm sand is baked golden by the sun; mountains form a dramatic backdrop to the perfect crescent of the bay, fringing crystalline tropical oceans … Sound idyllic? The perfect beach is easier to find than you may think. Travel Life has put together a bucket list of some of the most stunning beaches in Asia, the Middle East and Europe. Start packing your swim suit! 3. The Zlatni Rat, Brac, Croatia
Often referred to as the Golden Cape or Golden Horn, the Zlatni Rat is a spit of land on the southern coast of the Croatian island of Brac. It extends like a finger into the pearly Adriatic Sea composed of a vast white pebble beach backed by fragrant pine groves. The whole promontory is protected as a natural phenomenon and the shape and size of the landform varies in size depending on tide, current and wind. The cool clear waters can be hazardous for bathing so take care. Luxurious accommodation is but a few minutes drive away at the picturesque town of Bol at Zlatni Rat Beach Resort.
4. Palolem Beach, South Goa, India
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2. Rabbit Beach, Lampedusa, Islands of Sicily
Anyone expecting to find rabbits frolicking across the beach will be disappointed. But those looking for the ultimate Sicilian getaway, crystal clear waters and dazzling white sands have come to the right place. Accessed by boat (or small plane from Palermo or Catania), Rabbit Beach is on the tiny island of Lampedusa half way between the coast of Tunisia and Sicily. It’s consistently rated one of the top four beaches in the world by Trip Advisor. There may be a distinct lack of rabbits but dolphins galore sport in the water and CarettaCaretta turtles arrive in late spring.The volcanic isle of Linosa is close by. With temperatures typically around 25̊̊ C in winter and over 40̊ in summer, the island is an all year round holiday hothouse.
The Arabian Sea sends soothing waves to lap the shore as tropical palm trees lean into the white sandy beach. There’s a plethora of accommodation and restaurants including slightly hippy beach huts inhabited by local fishermen and tourists, as featured in the film The Bourne Supremacy. Located in Canacona in South Goa, Palolem has been justifiably dubbed ‘Paradise Beach’ because of its beautiful calm and serene atmosphere. The perfect antidote to the incessant hustle and bustle of India, this natural bay is surrounded by rocky headlands with a gently sloping sea bed and warm waters. The bow shaped beach extends for one mile to the tree covered rocks known as Green Island. At the top of the island adjoining Palolem beach a stone sculpture created by an American conceptual artist Jacek Tylicki has become something of a pilgrimage destination.
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5. Almaza Bay, Mersa Matruh, Egypt
transparent, warm waters. Mix with Thailand’s city sights, lush green scenery, exotic temples, fascinating markets and friendly locals and you have a holiday made in heaven.
8. Biarritz, France
Less than 149 miles west of Alexandria, the small harbour town and newly developed Almaza Bay Resort Complex is a superb and little known holiday destination. Justly renowned for its four and a half miles of exquisite white sandy beaches and gentle azure waters, the bay is protected by a natural rock harbour. The resort offers virtually constant sunshine and is well connected to towns and cities like Cairo and Alexandria. However, the town itself is relaxed and lively with plenty of night life and local restaurants.
The ultimate in stylish beach destinations and the world’s surfing capital, the Grande Plage forms the centre of the action. Biarritz sits on the Bay of Biscay on France’s southwest coast, for many years the resort was frequented by European kings and queens. Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III built a palace on the beach (now the Hotel du Palais). Recently, the beach has undergone something of a renaissance and is once again frequented by the affluent and chic. The magnificent beaches are a prime destination for surfers from around the world.
9. Cox’s Bazar, Bangladesh
6. Playa de las Catedrales, Ribadeo, Spain
7. Phuket, Thailand
A slight cheat of a choice since the 540km island of Phuket offers not one but countless beautiful beaches, clear sea and stunning views. Think white sand, swaying palms and
10.
The Isles of Scilly
Unbeknown to many, Britain has its very own tropical paradise on the doorstep. The archipelago off the Cornish peninsula comprises five inhabited islands, complete with castles, sparkling white beaches, nature trails, lush gardens, and even a thriving vineyard. The Scilly Isles are also home to turquoise waters, pale, fine sand and more than 35 beaches. Of these, the most outstanding are the romantic Pentle Bay, the golden sands of Porthcressa, and the unspoilt wilderness of Pelistry Bay. On the east side of St Mary’s, snorkelling, kayaking and diving are a popular pastime. Other beaches offer a golden oppor tunity for rock pooling and beachcombing whilst Great Bay has been voted best for swimming in the UK. But that’s not the whole story – there are also dramatic, rugged coastlines and steep rock faces. And even better, the Isles of Scilly enjoy the mildest and warmest climate in the country, with more hours of sunlight than the rest of the UK.
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Located on the Cantabric coast of Spain in the Ribadeo municipality, Playa de las Catedrales translates literally as Beach of the Cathedrals. It’s easy to see why the beach was so named. The cliffs have been formed into magnificent soaring arches like gothic flying buttresses, some of which are more than 30 metres high. A maze of sea caves and rock pools can be explored at low tide. At high tide the beach is quite small but you can still walk along the cliffs with spectacular views of the coast. It’s no tropical idyll – the Atlantic Sea is often rough and chilly - but the beach is a place to marvel at the nature’s handiwork or forage for the local delicacy of Percebes (translated as Goosefoot Barnacles) which gather in the rock crevices.
Bangladesh’s best kept secret, Cox’s Bazar’s wide sloping sands form the longest sea beach in the world, extending for 75 miles (120km) on the Bay of Bengal. To the north is the industrial port of Chittagong and on the east is the lush, green countryside of the Bandarban district. Cox’s Bazar is also known by the name Panowa which means ‘yellow flower’. At the moment the resort attracts mainly Bangladeshi tourists but it has the potential to rival other international beach destinations. Many hotels have been built in recent years, not always according to planning permission. Nevertheless, pristine sand, coconut palms, sunshine and tropical weather lend the resort all the qualities of a Caribbean island. Beach vendors ply their wares throughout the day. Deck chairs and umbrellas line the tranquil sands as holiday makers watch the beautiful sunsets over the Bay of Bengal.
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Turmoil and Tourism in
Thailand Kaiser Zaman
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S
Thailand's prime minister Prayuth Chan-ocha said recently the country was not always as safe for foreign visitors as their homelands, after the murder of two British tourists dealt a blow to the South-east Asian nation's image.
tarting late last year, Thailand underwent political turmoil for six months that culminated in the declaration of martial law in May this year. Although the discord between the elected government and its supporters, and the opposition and its supporters was intense, there was a carnival atmosphere, particularly in Bangkok. For the main part, the opposition political parties studiously stayed away from the limelight. The protesters, the very people bent on ousting the elected government, refused to equate flawed elections with true democracy, and chose defiance of the established order as path to democracy. Determined not to provoke violence, the leaders of the movement meticulously controlled every aspect of their campaign to “Shut Down Bangkok�. The protesters mingled superb organization with not so subtle intimidation to achieve their goal.
Instead of violence and property destruction, they launched a charm offensive to woo the civil servants and keep the military away. They wanted maximum disruption of the administration with the least inconvenience to the people. Their weapons of choice were blowing shrill whistles by the tens of thousands, wearing the national tricolours in imaginative ways, harassing ministers and blocking entrances to government offices. The government too was determined not to be provoked. When the protesters tore down the emblem on the gate of the police headquarters, the police did not stop them. Opposition volunteers took it upon themselves to direct traffic and the movement of people going about their business. The city’s popular intersections were occupied by demonstrators, their children, grandchildren, relatives, friend and neighbours. Giant loudspeakers blasted
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seaside town in Phuket, having a beer with my buddies when I heard that martial law has been declared and the military has taken over. Curfew was imposed throughout the country –not a dawn-to-dusk curfew but only from 10 pm to 5 am. We were relieved but we groaned. Oh, no! Phuket is the hub of tourism and hedonism. The real drinking and fun doesn’t even begin until midnight. The curfew would cramp our style and people of Phuket had done nothing to deserve it. Within days, the curfew was relaxed in Phuket and within a week, it was completely withdrawn. The island returned to its usual pursuits – tourists having the time of their life and the enablers fleecing the tourists as before. The Western countries from where most of the tourists come were quick to condemn the coup. “There was no justification,” crowed a foreign minister from his distant capital, where incidentally more people are killed in a month than were killed during the entire turmoil in Thailand. Country after Western country issued travel advisories warning its citizens not to go to Thailand. Tourism dropped off sharply. With the return to enforced sanity, resident expats and locals not involved in gouging the tourists gave a collective sigh of relief. Nearly six months on, the beaches along the long coastline of Thailand are relatively empty and hotels and resorts are
far from full. The military government has moved quickly to bring order and institute reforms across the board. Mindful of the damage done to Thailand’s economy and image, the junta has started cleaning up the mess. Tourism is vital to Thailand’s prosperity. The criticism by its longterm foreign friends, the travel warnings, and the runaway exploitation of tourists by touts have led the junta to take prompt action and reassure the world that visitors have nothing to fear. Despite the perceived instability, just about every foreigner can be more carefree travelling anywhere in the country than in straying from their comfort zone in their own countries. Thailand and particularly its popular tourist destinations may take a long time to bounce back from the damage. In the meantime, those who dare are still coming and are having a fun holiday. It is a lovely country to have a quiet holiday before the hordes return. Bangkok, September 2014. Kaiser Zaman retired as Representative of United Nations High Commission for Refugees (UNHCR). He has traveled widely and takes keen interest in exploring new countries as well as tracking development in countries which he visited over different periods of time. He now lives in Thailand after his retirement.
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music and giant electronic screens broadcast long-winded speeches by the leaders. Thousands of participants from faraway parts of the country poured in and camped in public squares and open spaces in the main shopping district of Bangkok. As is their wont, wherever a handful of Thais gather, someone will set up a stall to sell something be it food, trinkets, a haircut or a foot massage. Meanwhile the frenetic pace of the capital that lies at the crossroads of tourist-friendly south-east Asia barely slowed, and the bemused holiday makers from the colder climes clicked their cameras with abandon. Life went on. Almost every day I went to the protest sites to witness this remarkable contradiction of promoting democracy by forcing out an elected government without resorting to violence. As the weeks dragged into months testing the staying power of the frustrated protestors, the organizers regrouped the protesters in the city’s central park. One by one the other sites were cleared in an orderly manner and a new tent city was born virtually overnight in the Lumphini Park. Thousands of tiny tents mushroomed in organized clusters among the trees on the manicured lawns. Spotlessly clean grounds, streets and pathways without a shred of litter, and an atmosphere of serenity prevailed. I couldn’t help notice the absence of the famous “Bangkok smell” of the city’s murky canals that assaults the senses of its pedestrians. Instead, I saw large “toilet busses”, some with kindergarten painting of cartoon characters, an odd washing machine between the trees, often unattended stalls full of merchandise, and the ubiquitous foot massage recliners. Volunteers had set up stands to give away free bottled water, chilled no less, and all the food you could eat. Although I am a foreigner, they encouraged me to take a soft drink here or a plate of phad-thai there. Among the demonstrators were academics and lawyers who spoke English and politely satisfied my curiosity. In the months that the park was the hub of the protesters, I never hear a raised voice other than the loudspeakers giving encouragement and information. Having lived in several countries enmeshed in brutal wars, I admired the restraint of the government, the opposition and the armed forces. But away from this vast garden of tranquility, there were reports of a grenade being thrown here or a machine gun burst there, and the death of an innocent child or an adult felled by an unknown shooter. In the far north of the country where the government party enjoyed more support than elsewhere, some radicals among the “red shirts” talked ominously of civil war. The political deadlock could lead to more dead people, as it had happened a scant few years ago when the current government was in opposition. At that tragic denouement, 95 “red shirt” demonstrators were killed when soldiers opened fire to disperse a prolonged protest at the same shopping area. The military took control and tried to reset the nation. No one wanted that repeated but neither side wanted to back down. I travelled extensively in the north of the country by car before the political turmoil and never saw any sign of what was to come. In Bangkok the party atmosphere began to wear thin but the leaders remained steadfast. As the stalemate continued I drove south to Phuket, an island of peace and tranquility. The distant thunder of the turmoil in the north was just that –an ominous but still a distant thunder. I was in my favorite bar in Kamala, a beautiful
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Aims to become world’s most visited city An exciting series of ‘mega’ projects have been launched to help Dubai achieve its ambition of becoming the most visited city in the world. The emirate’s tourism authority has a target to double visitor numbers from 10 million in 2012 to 20 million by the end of the decade with the result that Dubai will replace London as the top ranking tourist city. Total investment is expected to notch up at a cool Dh25 billion. With growth at a 10.6 per cent yearon-year increase the city looks comfortably set to achieve its Tourism Vision targets. So, what exactly can future visitors look forward to? Below, we take a look at some of the ‘mega’ projects in the Dubai pipeline:
Wire world
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Billed as the largest man-made adventure park of its kind in the world, Wire World Meydan Adventure Park will cover 25,000 square feet, featuring 70 obstacles set in trees, across rocks and on poles and posts, also boasting a bike park and bungee trampoline.
Dubai Opera House and Opera District Located in Downtown Dubai close to the Burj Khalifa, the Dubai Opera House forms the centrepiece of a development of luxury hotels and apartments, retail plaza, waterfront promenades and parks. Styled on the traditional sailing vessels of the Arabian Gulf, the 20,000 seat venue will host cultural events, opera, theatre, concerts, art exhibitions, orchestral concerts, film, sports, and seasonal programmes.
Dubai Water Canal This project sees the Dubai Creek extend from Business Bay to be finally reunited with its original source – the sea. The three kilometre long project will include a new shopping mall, four hotels, 450 restaurants and a vast network of cycling paths.
Al Habtoor City The Al Habtoor City development is to offer more than 1,600 rooms to visitors across its three hotels – St Regis, W Dubai Sheikh Zayed Road and Westin Dubai – as well as a permanent Franco Dragone Entertainment Group water-themed production.
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IMG Worlds of Adventure
Bluewaters Island
Once open, this 1.5 million square food project will be the world’s largest indoor themed entertainment destination with the capacity to welcome more than 20,000 visitors a day. The first leisure park in the world to bring together the global brands of Cartoon Network and MARVEL in one location, there’ll also be a Lost Valley – Dinosaur Adventure.
Built off the coastline near Dubai Marina, Bluewaters Island will offer a retail, residential, hospitality and entertainment zone, including a bespoke ‘souq’ encircled by al fresco dining outlets. At the centre of the island will be the 2012-metre Dubai Eye, set to be the tallest ferris wheel in the world.
Planned to open in late 2017 within Jebel Ali, this project is brought to Dubai by the world’s largest regional theme park company, Six Flags Entertainment Corporation, and Meraas Leisure and Entertainment. This venture sees the first time the Six Flags brand has been taken outside North America.
Aladdin City Inspired by the tales of Aladdin and Sinbad, the three towers set within the old area of Dubai city in Al Rigga, will resemble Aladdin’s magical lamp with a connecting bridge built in the shape of dragons and snakes. The towers, comprising a hotel and two commercial offices, connect by a 450metre long, air conditioned pedestrian bridge with travellators leading to parking stations.
Dubai Frame Within Dubai’s Zabeel Park, the structure will rise 150 metres from the ground, its hollow shape resembling a huge picture frame. At its base, visitors can follow a path detailing the history of Dubai, before taking an elevator to the top of the frame where they can enjoy impressive city views as they walk along a glass-floor bridge.
Dubai Expo Site At the heart of the 438-hectare site for the World Cup Expo 2020 will be an Arabian style souq design with the three main zones dedicated to the Expo’s themes of opportunity, mobility and sustainability. The Expo’s metro station will be located within a new mall encompassing an Expo Village made up of apartments, banks, medical centres and food and beverage courts. An exhibition and conference centre, a university and national museum dedicated to the Expo will also be located on the site.
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Six Flags Theme Park
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Restaurants visited: 69 Bar-Restaurant 69 Ma May Street, Hanoi www.69mamay.com.vn
Apsara Restaurant 222 Tran Phu, Da Nang www.apsaradanang.com
Tra Que Herb Village Tra Que, Cam Ha, Hoi An www.traqueherbvillage.com
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Have you had your rice today? By Bree Sims
The Ceremony Hot, pungent and a feast for the senses, Hanoi is a city of humidity, humanity and traffic. It's also the home of Cha ca Ha Noi. Order, sit back and let the theatre begin. A brazer containing glowing coals and topped, slightly precariously, by a metal dish filled to the brim with fragrant broth arrives at the table. Spring onions float on top while, submerged in the depths, lurk perfect pieces of local river fish that have been lightly fried in flour. Separately, there's a generous platter of rice vermicelli, piles of chopped spring onions and fragrant dill and a bowl of chopped peanuts. A waiter is on hand to gently guide the uninitiated through the process which involves adding the contents of the platter to the hot broth as you go so each small bowlful stays crunchy and hot.
Posh Nosh Moving down the country and nearer to the coast I had plenty of opportunity to indulge my serious seafood habit. Squid that melts in the mouth, large, firm prawns and succulent scallops. Squeaky-fresh and complimented by delicate noodles, vegetables and light broths with the perfect balance of tangy fish sauce to add bite, but let the seafood sing. There are plenty of places to chose from. One of the posher options, a hang out for higher end tourists and the local business fraternity, is Apsara Restaurant.
Will Work for Food The final experience requires you to get your hands dirty. At Tra Que Farm near Hoi An you're given one of the traditional conical hats and led out into the fields. After a tour of the crops you get to do your own tilling, planting and watering, using traditional methods, before being led back to the shade for lunch. But wait, your work's not done yet. Your fabulous hosts have set up portable gas rings and pre-prepared a pancake mix with herbs, a pile of bean sprouts, strips of chicken and small shrimp. Making a pancake with chopsticks is an interesting experience; but nothing compared to the dexterity required for the next course; a selfassembly Spring roll. You start with a circle of rice paper, pile in freshfrom-the-farm mint, lettuce, cucumber and shrimp then take one end of the circle between your chop sticks and roll. Easy! When you know how. There were delicate prawn parcels to be tied with mint - and turtles and spiders to create from our rice and vegetables. These guys have made playing with their food into an art form and they show you how with humour and patience. The verdict: seek out a proper Vietnamese restaurant and start discovering the flavours beyond the filo.
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N
o, I don't have an over-familiar interest in your diet, it's the way people greet each other in Vietnam and, indeed, across China. I decided that a nation with such an interest in food; not to mention gorgeous countryside, vibrant cites and miles of coastline was definitely worth a visit. There's plenty of ginger and chilli, coriander and coconut for curry fans but knowledge of Vietnamese food is still vague for most Brits - a notion of noodles and fatty filo parcels with lucky dip fillings. The thing that strikes you most when you are there is the freshness. Let's start with the pineapples, carved into swirls and sold at the side of the road. They are so warm and sweet that its like eating sunshine. Then there's the gelatinous 'white rose' dumplings: shiny, delicious circles of soft rice paper, scrumpled around minced pork and shrimp; not to mention the clean crunch of a green papaya and beef salad. I could wax lyrical all day about the stir fried 'morning glory' (water spinach), the crisp tofu, the aromatic Pho. Instead I will focus on three different culinary experiences: a 'ceremony', the posh option and the hands on cooking course.
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Pickpockets
Beware
You could be next victim
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I
have never had my pockets picked, well, except by my wife which I gladly allow and even more gladly overlook! But I am sure, like me, you too feel you can never fall prey to pickpockets. And that's exactly what pickpockets want you to think. Your overconfidence makes you their ideal target. And this happens mostly when you are travelling overseas, either as a tourist or on business. I have been travelling extensively for most of my life. My business takes me from country to country and arrivals and departures are not always civil. In the good old days, travellers’ cheques were very common to travellers. They were pseudo cash and safe to carry. Even when you lost them, it would be easy for you to claim back from the issuing banks if you jotted down the numbers somewhere safe. But these days cash has been replaced by plastic; if you lose them while overseas, your trips could go massively wrong. In many countries taxis and
By Helal M Alam
public transport do not accept cards. Therefore, you have to carry some amount of cash when you travel. The risk associated with carrying cash is what I am writing about today and suggesting some simple tips to follow. Here is what happened to me a couple of months back. I was transiting Bangkok on my way to Hong Kong. Upon checking into the hotel on the popular Sukhumvit Road, I realised my mouthwash was not in my toiletry bag. So I decided to pop into the supermarket next door. This is a 24/7 store so I decided to take a stroll after dinner to pick up what I needed. I was busy trying to choose the right brand when a young man asked me where he could find a L’Oreal brand face cream. I told him I don't live here and hence wouldn’t be able to guide him. He then asked me where I was from. I told him I was from London and in reply he said he was from Dubai. He then asked me
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targeting the subject while a couple of others will guard him so he does not get spotted. Here is another experience which happened last month. This time too, I was the target but the outcome was different. My wife and I were in Istanbul to choose hotels and sightseeing tours for our passengers. On the last day of our four-day stay we decided to try the tram in the old town of Sultanahmed. We were buying tokens from the vending machines where a few teenage girls were begging. I brought out my wallet from my back pocket, put in a 20 Turkish Lira note in the vending machine and pressed for two tokens, money bag in my hand. The platform was nearly empty. The female beggars were also nowhere to be seen. The tram came. Doors opened. It was nearly full, so we squeezed in. As the doors of the tram were closing, a few more passengers pushed their way through the door. I felt my money bag sliding out of my back pocket. I quickly grabbed it before it could do a disappearing act. Once it was safe in my hand, I looked over my shoulder. I was surrounded by the three or four women wearing hijabs. They were not tourists. They were speaking in local language. I quickly decided not to react. That would have been dangerous. Women clad in hijab would draw more sympathy than I would, this they knew. What they did not know is that I hardly had anything in my wallet. Some cash for dinner and nothing else. They also did not know of my Bangkok experience; once bitten twice shy! Here are a few tips I would like to share with you. Please remember these when you travel abroad next time. Do not carry cash or credit cards more than what you need when you go out of your accommodation. It would be better to put the extra cash, credit cards and your passport and tickets in the safe in the hotel. If your hotel does not have a safe, put them in your suitcase and lock it. Should you become a victim of pickpocketing, it will be of small magnitude. Put your cash in your front pockets. Our eyes are in front and not at the back; you can see what’s happening in front of you and not at the back. Ladies, please avoid carrying expensive items in your handbags as they hang around your body loosely and hence become easy targets. You will not know when someone has put his or her dirty hands into your bag. Be careful, be safe, but don’t lose the pleasure of seeing countries and places you are visiting. (Helal M Alam lives in London. He is an entrepreneur who has extensive travelling experience both on business and pleasure. He shares his real life experience with the readers of Travel Life Magazine).
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about my ethnicity and when I informed him that I am a British Bangladeshi he seemed to be very excited about it: "My partner in Dubai is also from Bangladesh!" he exclaimed. And then came an odd question: “How much Bangladesh currency is equivalent to US dollar?” I gave him the answer. "Do you have any Bangladesh money?" he asked. I made the mistake of taking out my wallet to see if I had any. I did not. He then looked at the Thai Bhat in my wallet and asked me if it was Bangladesh money. Just then someone tapped my shoulder from behind and asked me if there was any Nivea cream on the shelf. I turned to the person who tapped my shoulder and said that I did not work at the store and hence did not know. As I turned back to the first young man 'from Dubai', he was gone. I glanced over my shoulder to see if the other guy was there, he too had vanished. I looked at my money bag, my Thai Bhats were also gone. I had been pickpocketed! I stood there for a few minutes. Should I go and talk to the store security? But I had an early flight the following morning, what use would it be to go and complain? Did I have enough time to see through the process? No, it would be of no use. I went back to my hotel room, disappointed with myself. As I mentioned, I have been travelling extensively during my professional life. I have always been careful. So what was different this time? As I lay on the bed gazing at the 52-inch TV I suddenly realised that the English language channel was showing a documentary about Pickpockets in Spain. I sat up on the bed. Hello! There is a pattern! Firstly, they operate in groups of two or more. Their idea is to distract their target while one of them picks the pocket. Secondly, they target tourists. Because tourists do not have the time and mental condition to complain to the police. They think it's a waste of time. Tourists also have their attention glued to their surroundings rather than themselves or their belongings. That makes them an easy target. Normally busy, packed places are favourite operating environments of pickpockets. They target ladies with bags hanging from their shoulders. A member of the pickpocket group will take the responsibility of
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Mondrian London docks at Sea Containers
W
ith spectacular views over the River Thames, London’s newest, most splendid hotel appears to be floating on it rather than alongside it. At night with a myriad lights reflecting in the water, Mondrian London looks like a vast ocean liner that has just steamed into dock. The first luxury hotel in the UK of the America-based Morgans Hotel Group, Mondrian London launches on 30th September in the former offices of the Sea Containers. Situated on the vibrant South Bank of the Thames, the building was originally designed as a hotel in 1978 by the US architect Warren Platner, but became offices on completion. Now, with a brand new look created by the award-winning British designer Tom Dixon and his Design Research Studio, Mondrian London exudes all the elegance and glamour associated with the golden days of transatlantic travel, along with a healthy dose of 1980s post modernism.
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The hotel
Guests entering from the Upper Ground entrance pass under a canopy of burnished copper. Through reception curving walls open up to riverside restaurants, outdoor terraces and cocktail bars with luxurious seating and artwork that would grace the nearby Tate Modern. In contrast, the Dandelyan lounge echoes the style of a British gentlemen’s club with green marbled bar and views of the Thames. Downstairs the luxurious Agua Bathhouse and Spa cultivates a feeling of underwater tranquillity. Luminous corridors, relaxing steam baths and unique therapy create a soothing hub for guests. With 5,500 square feet of event space, multi-service meeting rooms and conference facilities, Mondrian London also boasts a 56-seat screening room which can be hired for product launches and press screenings. The 359 comfortable rooms include Standard, Superior, River View Deluxe and Loft Suites, intended to be a “haven away from the busy social parts of the hotel”. Continuing
the nautical theme with curved and panelled walls, Tom Dixon’s cutting edge design is complimented by his own brand lighting, signature furniture and paintings, with marble bathrooms, queen beds, and flat screen HD TV in all standard rooms. The crowning glory of Mondrian London is the Art-Deco inspired, reservation-only rooftop lounge and outdoor terrace, described by Dixon as a “bit Titanic”, where guests can take in jaw dropping vistas over some London’s most famous landmarks as they dine.
Restaurants and bars
The Riverside restaurant at Mondrian London is headed by New York chef, Seamus Mullen. Originally from Ireland, Mullen combines the best of British and American food to create a ‘refined’ dining experience that is also youthful and accessible. With a talent for “cooking tasty things that can make us feel better”, Mullen and executive chef Luke Rayment, former head chef at Gordon Ramsay at Claridges, source fruits, vegetables and fresh herbs from the bustling Borough Market which is only a three-minute walk away from the hotel. The restaurant also boasts an outside terrace, bar, private dining area and open kitchen with visible wood-fire oven. Cocktails are served up in the Dandelyan bar from Ryan Chetiyawardana (aka the famous Mr Lyan) whose seasonal drinks menu draws from the classics along with new mixes inspired by the botanical troves of the British countryside. Mondrian London combines many elements: the glamour of Hollywood, 1920’s maritime nostalgia, state-of-the-art contemporary design, relaxed, yet refined dining all served up with a touch of renegade panache. When it opens on 30th September it may well become London’s trendiest hotel destination. Room rates start from £234 (booking now). Mondrian London, Sea Containers House, 20 Upper Ground, London SE1 9QT
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