GOVERNMENT LAUNCHES RECOVERY LOAN SCHEME TICKLE YOUR TASTE BUDS
The show must go on
OUT OF AFRICA April-June 2021
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APRIL 2021
CONTENTS
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Restaurants respond to no-shows debate With restaurants, bars and cafes reopening across the UK, many establishments are still struggling with how to manage no-shows. In a post-Covid environment, this could mean make or break for businesses Cover photo: courtesy of Yum Yum
Technology of our times
Editor in Chief
Syed Nahas Pasha
Food apps have taken off in the last year. We look at the latest ones aiming to help with social distanced dining, gourmet food delivery and no-fuss dishes at home
info@worldfoodlife.com Editor
Syed Belal Ahmed info@worldfoodlife.com News & Features Editor
Kim Benjamin info@worldfoodlife.com
Getting creative in the kitchen
Contributors
Three chefs showcase how they have spent their time during lockdown, from running online cooking classes, to developing a food business and launching a restaurant kits service
Steve Watkins Lee Lixenberg Sam Smith Shamsul Islam Daniel Pasha Samuel Ahmed Shafiur Rahman Amjad Suleman
African adventure
Media Sales
Chef Zoe Adjonyoh on popups, supper clubs, festivals and giving back to the community. She describes her latest venture, a West African-themed online food platform, as a ‘social impact business’
Advisors
Habibur Rahman Helal M Alam Emdadul Hogue Tipu Consultant Advisors
Dominic Chapman Rupert Rowley Mo Gherras General Manager
Taslima Akhter
Store cupboard secrets
Photographer
Kois Miah Correspondence Address
From chickpeas to ceylon cinnamon and from pumpkin seed oil to sambal, there are many spices and condiments making their mark in 2021, and they are good for your health too
WORLD FOOD LIFE
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April-June 2021
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EDITORIAL
Looking to the future
With lockdown restrictions easing and the vaccination programme continuing to meet targets, outdoor hospitality has been allowed to reopen across the UK in accordance with the Government roadmap set out in February. Restaurants that have been able to welcome diners says they have been inundated with bookings. This is welcome news for the industry but there are still many challenging times ahead. For those that are open now, there are many rules to comply with and guidelines to be aware of, such as data collection for test and trace, the need for increased hygiene, the number of diners allowed and social distancing recommendations. All of these come at a significant additional cost to businesses. Hospitality trade bodies UKHospitality, British Beer & Pub Association and British Institute of Innkeeping are calling on the Government to extend the business rates holiday for at least a further three months to allow businesses to get back on their feet. They say that when the sector can welcome customers indoors as part of the next stage of lockdown easing, which will be on the 17th May at the earliest, they are estimated to only reach 56% of turnover when compared to prepandemic figures. The industry is also battling additional challenges, such as managing no-shows, and investing in heating and weatherproofing. For many, the decision to reopen has been a difficult one and sadly, many establishments will not see the light of day when restrictions are fully eased.
Taking action One positive to have emerged from the lockdown is a greater awareness of sustainability and how businesses and consumers are working together to contribute to climate change. Over the various lockdowns, with people urged to limit their movements and stay as close to home as possible, many have shopped locally or chosen to buy produce that can help reduce the carbon footprint. With a looming 2030 deadline for delivering the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, we all have our part to play with regards to sustainability and reaching the UN targets. And while travel may be off the cards for the present time, you can still get in the mood for its potential return in the summer by experiencing new flavours from around the world as well as adding some spice to your dishes. Zhoug, sambal and hot honey are some of the more exotic flavours many of us are experimenting with this year.
NEWS
Restaurants plagued by no shows Taking upfront payments for meals is not an appealing prospect for restaurants, with fears this could alienate loyal customers. Restaurants, such as Birmingham’s 670 Grams, whose cuisine is inspired by Europe and Asia, have implemented a pay-before-youeat policy ahead of the hospitality industry reopening this spring. This is according to a report in The Times, which said restaurants were concerned by the impact of customer no-shows. Habibur Khan, front of house manager at Dalkeith-based Itihaas said the restaurant would not consider asking customers to pay in advance. ‘“We are all humans, sometimes we do make errors and other things that are www.worldfoodlife.uk
more of a priority could come up first so I wouldn’t like to penalise my customers who have been supporting us from day one,” he says. He believes that technology is a better solution for tackling noshows - with most people booking online or over the phone, Khan says it’s better to have a system in place where
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software indicates the number of no-shows. “That report will then justify if it’s worth it for you to accept a booking or use that table for another loyal customer,” he says. West London-based Patri says that asking diners to pay in advance would be off-putting and would be difficult to implement for those restaurants that are less wellknown. “The best way to protect from no-shows is a credit card deposit,” says Puneet Wadhwani, chief tasting officer and cofounder at Patri. “We secure a booking with a minimum cancellation of £5 per person.”
April-June 2021
Are drones the food delivery future? Are drones the food delivery future? A curry house in Glasgow is trialing the UK’s first drone delivery service for its takeaways, with the restaurant owner saying the process is an ecofriendly and faster way to deliver food, and one which could end up cheaper for the customer than other delivery methods. The Shish Mahal in Glasgow has partnered with a local drone pilot, John Crawford, to trial the service, which is still in the research and development phase. In a report in The Times, restaurant owner Asif Ali says the service could soon be used for goods weighing up to 1kg. Last year, Thai restaurant Camile Thai Kitchen started a drone food
April-June 2021
delivery service. Founder and CEO of the business Brody Sweeney says drone delivery enables the restaurant to reach a larger geographic spread of customers, and allows them to receive their orders in record time. The Camile Thai Kitchen takeaway chain has been taking part in a trial in Oranmore in County Galway, West of Ireland, alongside other restaurants. The trial has been operating from a food truck parked outside a Tesco superstore. “We see drone deliveries as a welcome new way of cutting down on the heavy delivery costs that are placing an increasing burden on restaurants,” says Sweeney, with
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Camile Thai charging customers a €2.99 delivery fee. Delivery by car or bike costs the company somewhere between €5.50 and €6, according to Sweeney. If drone deliveries were to become widely available, Sweeney calculates that about 70% of Camile Thai deliveries could be done in such a way. “It won’t be suitable for all deliveries — such as to busy urban streets or office blocks,” he says. “Drones are ideally suited for suburbia, where people have gardens or driveways where deliveries can be dropped. The future of drone delivery is definitely revolutionizing the food industry.”
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NEWS
Lord Bilimoria appointed as Visiting Fellow at the University of Oxford Lord Bilimoria, President of The CBI (Confederation of British Industry), has been appointed as a Visiting Fellow at the University of Oxford, based at its Oxford University Centre for Corporate Reputation. The Oxford University Centre for Corporate Reputation is a research centre located within Oxford University’s Saïd Business School. It aims to understand how the reputations of organisations are created, sustained, enhanced, destroyed and rehabilitated. Rupert Younger, Director of the Oxford University Centre for Corporate Reputation commented: “Visiting Fellows provide valuable insight and guidance into our research agenda, provide access to data and other sources of relevant information for our work, and also engage within our MBA curriculum. Lord Bilimoria’s leadership of the CBI, together with his expertise as a successful entrepreneur, will be a hugely valuable resource and we look forward to welcoming him to the School in person when we are able to do so. Lord Bilimoria has strong prior connections with the University of Oxford, having been appointed as a Bynum Tudor Fellow of Kellogg College in 2017. The Bynum Tudor Fellowship is the highest honour the College can bestow, according to Kellogg College . He delivered his Bynum Tudor Lecture on ‘Building a global beer brand from scratch: Boldness in business’ in 2018. The latest appointment to the Bynum Tudor Fellowship is His Royal Highness Prince Charles, The Prince of Wales. Lord Bilimoria commented: “I am honoured and privileged to be appointed a Visiting Fellow at the University of Oxford. The work that the Oxford University Centre for Corporate Reputation does around purpose and the value of social approval assets in business has global impact. I look forward to contributing to and championing this work as best as I can.” www.worldfoodlife.uk
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April-June 2021
Government launches recovery loan scheme
Rishi Sunak The Chancellor of the Exchequer
A new government-backed loan scheme has launched, providing additional finance to protect businesses and jobs in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic. The Recovery Loan Scheme will ensure businesses continue to benefit from Government-guaranteed finance throughout 2021. With non-essential retail and outdoor hospitality having reopened on 12 April, ministers have ensured that appropriate support is still available to businesses to protect jobs. A range of businesses – from coffee shops and restaurants, to hairdressers and gyms – can access loans varying April-June 2021
in size from £25,000, up to a maximum of £10 million. Invoice and asset finance is available from £1,000. The Chancellor of the Exchequer, Rishi Sunak, said: “We have stopped at nothing to protect jobs and livelihoods throughout the pandemic and as the situation has evolved we have ensured that our support continues to meet businesses’ needs. As we safely reopen parts of our economy, our new Recovery Loan Scheme will ensure that businesses continue to have access to the finance they need as we move out of this crisis.” The scheme, which was announced during the Budget and runs until 31 December 2021, will be administered by the British Business Bank, with loans available through a network of accredited commercial lenders, of which 26 have already been accredited. Interest rates have been capped at 14.99% and are expected to be much lower than that in the vast majority of cases, with ministers urging lenders to ensure they keep rates down to help protect jobs. The Recovery Loan Scheme can be used as an additional loan on top of support received from other emergency schemes put into place. 7
We have stopped at nothing to protect jobs and livelihoods throughout the pandemic and as the situation has evolved we have ensured that our support continues to meet businesses needs. As we safely reopen parts of our economy, our new Recovery Loan Scheme will ensure that businesses continue to have access to the finance they need as we move out of this crisis.
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NEWS
Trade bodies offer guidance for re-opening of hospitality UKHospitality, the British Beer & Pub Association and the British Institute of Innkeeping have joined forces to publish a 12-step guide to help businesses navigate the rules for outdoor eating and drinking. Since the 12th April, hospitality venues such as pubs, restaurants and cafes have been allowed to open for outdoor service only. There are no curfew restrictions or requirements for a substantial meal, but table service and the ‘rule of six’ still apply. The industry is being urged to review its COVID-19 risk assessment to ensure that all relevant mitigations are in place and that staff are aware of their responsibilities. The full guidance is set out below. You must have an NHS QR Code poster accessible to all customers as well as an alternative method for recording customer contact details. Customers details must be collected, via the app or otherwise, before they place an order. All customers (16+) must provide their details for Test and Trace. You must take reasonable steps to refuse entry to those who refuse to check in or provide false details. You should satisfy yourselves that individuals who are checking in using the official NHS QR code have done so – you may do this by asking the individual if they have scanned the code. Customers are only allowed indoors to: walk to the outdoor area, use the toilet, baby change and breast feeding facilities or make payment at the bar as a last resort. Customers must wear face coverings indoors and not loiter or congregate. www.worldfoodlife.uk
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Staff must wear face coverings in indoor areas, unless they are separated from customers by a screen or similar. Face coverings do not need to be worn outdoors by staff or customers. Outdoor seating and tables should be reconfigured to maintain social distancing guidelines (2m, or 1m+ with risk mitigation where 2m is not viable) between groups of customers. The Government has confirmed that social distancing between tables remains the focus and that is reflected in the workplace guidance. Customers must be seated at a table to order, be served and consume their food and/or drink in venues serving alcohol. Ideally payment should also be taken at table, however as a last resort (and only if not possible outdoors) payment can be taken indoors. April-June 2021
provide food and drinks, including alcohol, on a takeaway basis. This means that customers can enter the premises to place and collect their order. Food and drinks can also be provided via drive through, as well as click-and-collect (where goods are preordered by phone, online, via a mobile app or post, and collected without entering the premises) and delivery.’ Outdoor structures must follow the same rules as smoking shelters – 50% or more of the sides must be open – in order to be classed as “outdoors”.
It is no longer the case that a substantial meal has to be ordered with alcohol. Groups must be a maximum of 6 people or two households (unlimited number) Government guidance has been updated to state: ‘Closed premises can continue to
You can offer background music and television outside, if it is kept at a reasonable volume and shouting/singing/chanting is prevented. Incidental live music is permitted. Customers making takeaway purchases are exempt from both Test and Trace and the requirement to be seated whilst ordering but their purchase must be consumed offpremise (including outside of adjacent areas)
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NEWS
Online
Technology is helping the food industry reach far and wide, enabling delivery, social distancing or the chance to refine your cooking skills
on the app
Hardly a month seems to go by without the launch of a food delivery app or service. Services such as Getir, Weezy and Dija are pledging to deliver groceries to your door in under 20 minutes, while a number of restaurant delivery apps have sprung up to support independent businesses. The BARBI app is one such example - launched in February by the British Association of Restaurants, Bars & Independents, it aims to support food businesses in Bristol by offering them a delivery service, with a table booking service set to launch next. A similar idea is behind various local start-ups branded with the destination plus ‘Eats’, such as Croydon Eats, which at present focuses on customers and eateries in certain postcodes in the borough and Wakefield Eats, a takeaway and food ordering app for the Wakefield and surrounding areas only. There are plenty of apps focusing on minimising food waste, helping diners do their bit for the environment, such as Too Good to Go, which connects consumers to surplus food from restaurants and stores, which would otherwise be thrown away. Olio, meanwhile, puts neighbours in touch with each other and with local businesses so surplus food can be shared. While these apps are not new, their appeal is growing as an increasing number of consumers are interested in sustainable ways of living. We’ve outlined some of the latest apps and online services to launch; these focus on delivering highend food, helping diners to socially distance and recreating your favourite restaurant meals in the comfort of your own home. www.worldfoodlife.uk
The lowdown
Billa
Restaurants will need to have partnered with the app in order
What it offers
This soon-to-launch app says it will encourage restaurants and diners to adopt social distancing measures, thereby helping to ensure customer and staff safety.
How it works
Users can scan a QR code on a restaurant table, which will enable them to see a menu, some of which will feature augmented reality technology, enabling meals to be seen in 3D. Customers can also use a ‘call for assistance’ button, so they can let staff know if they need further help. Once customers try to add a meal to their bill, they will be prompted to register or login via email or social media handles. They can either choose to order and pay instantly or just order and pay at the end with a bank card, Apple Pay or Google Pay.
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for customers to use it. Billa has yet to launch but says it has already signed up a number of as-yet-unnamed restaurants. Jhanai Lelittle, co-founder, chief executive officer and head of operations at Billa Technologies says one of the many benefits is being able to pay remotely and the ability to choose whether or not you need help from staff, reducing the need for interaction.
April-June 2021
Gourmet2Go
Plateaway
What it offers
What it offers
Launched in March, Gourmet2Go is a platform aimed at matching customers with their local finedining and high-quality restaurants and pubs. It will initially work with partners in London before expanding to cover Newcastle and then the rest of the UK.
How it works
Customers can download the app and search for high-end restaurants, fresh food boxes, or chefs, with the company saying it will vet each establishment it features on the app.
The lowdown
Plateaway is an online service enabling consumers to recreate their favourite restaurant meals at home. It launched in June with six founding restaurant partners and now features more than 50. Restaurants signed up include The Cinnamon Club, Breddos Tacos, Leon and Shoryu Ramen.
How it works
Head to the website and order a DIY meal kit which will be delivered to your door, nationwide. Food is set out by category, such as ‘Italian, Asian, Mediterranean
and Vegan’ so it’s easy to browse. Not all delivery days are the same but these are clearly set out so you can plan ahead, and the majority of restaurants on the site deliver in time for the weekend.
The lowdown
There isn’t a dedicated app but the website is easy to navigate. Plateaway has recently launched its own convenience meals, called the ‘Heat & Eat’ range, featuring dishes such as Thai green chicken curry, tagliatelle bolognese and chicken milanese and butternut and red pepper tagine. Plateaway says each kit takes 15 minutes to prepare and cook.
The app is endorsed by The Restaurant Club, a loyalty scheme for discerning diners which supports independent restaurants and cafés, and which offers exclusive offers for members. Gourmet2Go founder George Thwaytes says he intends ‘to fill a gap in the market for a well curated app for customers, but also for an affordable price for those that sign up due to the current circumstances.’ April-June 2021
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NEWS
Coronavirus: latest rules for restaurants, pubs and bars With lockdown restrictions easing across the UK, here are some of the latest Government rules you need to be aware of
Wales England Outdoor hospitality reopened on 12 April. Customers must order, eat and drink while seated at a table in venues where alcohol is served, They must follow the ‘rule of six’, or be in a group of any size from two households only. Every customer aged 16 and over must check in with NHS Test and Trace, or provide contact details to the venue. If restrictions are allowed to ease further, from 17 May, customers can eat and drink indoors, in groups of up to six people, or two households of any size. Groups seated outside must have no more than 30 people.
In Wales, outdoor hospitality was given the go-ahead to reopen from 26 April, while pubs and restaurants will be allowed to open indoors from 17 May. At present, the maximum number that can meet outdoors is six people from different households and there are no time limits or curfews in place yet. From 17 May, the rule of four applies indoors (up to four people from four households) or a single household if more than four people. The rule of six will continue to apply outdoors.
Northern Ireland Outdoor areas at hospitality venues (cafés, restaurants, bars, pubs, social clubs, including in members’ clubs) reopened on 30 April. A maximum of six people from two households can be seated together. Children aged 12 and under are not counted in the total. More than six will be permitted if they all belong to a single household. Venues will also be required to collect customer details to help with the Test, Trace, Protect contact tracing programme. An indicative date of 24 May, subject to review, has been set for the reopening of indoor hospitality venues and all tourism accommodation. www.worldfoodlife.uk
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Scotland From 26 April, hospitality venues such as cafés, pubs and restaurants reopened for business. Cafés, pubs and restaurants can resume full outdoor service, subject to local licensing, and serve food indoors, but without alcohol until 8pm. Takeaways can also resume normal service, with physical distancing and face masks in premises. There is a maximum of six people from six households outdoors and a maximum of six people from two households indoors. Under 12s do not count towards the number of people meeting outside but they do count towards household numbers indoors. From 17 May, restaurants, bars and cafes could stay open until 11.30pm and serve alcohol. A new app, Check In Scotland, has been launched by the Scottish Government and NHS Scotland to help venues collect details from customers for the Test and Protect system.
April-June 2021
CURRY
can put you in a good mood Curry, sushi and burgers are the foods most likely to increase happiness levels and put you in a good mood. This is according to a survey from food delivery service Lieferando. at, which is owned by Just Eat. It conducted an experiment over a four-week period using the ‘Brief Mood Introspection Scale’ (BMIS). The BMIS scale consists of participants rating the intensity of their positive emotions, such as happiness and liveliness. The results are then totalled to create an overall ‘happiness’ score out of 500. Participants’ scores were taken before eating any meal and averaged at 142 BMIS points. Their mood was then analysed after eating each meal to note the percentage increase in happiness. After studying 2,158 people and their emotional reactions to 11 different meal options, results showed that on average, ordering any kind of meal increases happiness by 52%. Curry emerged as the food most likely to increase happiness levels, by 83%, with sushi coming in second place, with participants reporting a April-June 2021
73% increase in happiness. Burgers took third place, making people 70% happier than they were before tucking in to the food, while Thai (64%) and Chinese (58%) food came fourth and fifth. The foods that are least likely to put diners in a good mood were fish and chips (scoring 18% on the happiness scale), Mexican (24%) and kebabs (27%).
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As part of the study, Lieferando shared the results with Lee Chambers, a psychologist and wellbeing consultant, to learn more about the relationship between food and happiness. He said: “From a psychological perspective, food alters our mood through several pathways. Firstly, the idea of comfort food is not a myth; we can use food as a coping mechanism when we are feeling stressed, anxious or bored to anchor us in the present while enjoying it. Given the turbulence of 2020 and the limitations on some forms of entertainment, food has become even more powerful in being a tool of happiness and being an experience that is certain, the same every time.” He added that ‘food has a powerful nostalgic element, taking us back to positive times in our lives, times with less responsibility and memories of people we enjoyed food with’.
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FEATURE
THE
show
MUST
Go on chefs showcase how they responded to life in lockdown Inspiring the next generation of chefs
Irini Tzortoglou set up Uni.Yum
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Irini Tzortzoglou was crowned the winner of Masterchef 2019, in an all-female final. She has since worked on projects with food suppliers such as Dodoni UK, contributed to cookery books and published her own one in 2020. Earlier this year, Tzortzoglou teamed up with the University of Cumbria (near where she lives), to offer its students a cookery class series online, called Uni.Yum. The scheme aims to help university students cook satisfying and nutritious meals for themselves and others, on a budget and using basic ingredients and equipment. “The purpose of the course is manyfold,” explains Tzortzoglou. “My husband John is a nonexecutive director for the University of Cumbria and one day he and I were discussing the plight of
students, being away from family for the first time perhaps, isolated without many resources or cooking knowledge and without much to lift their spirits. The idea of the cooking classes was born.” The aim was also to help break the tedium of solitary life and studying that many students experienced over lockdown, as well as offering an outlet to the students’ creativity, and removing some of the stress of food shopping and preparation. The series kicked off at the end of January. Each of the five sessions, following an introductory one, was dedicated to a different nutrient group (protein, carbs, vegetable and fruit, dairy and fats and sugars). The 45-minute sessions, which took place in the kitchen of Tzortzoglou’s 14
home near Cartmel in South Cumbria, featured a live introduction of the nutrient group, a video demonstration of one recipe with students cooking along and a live Q&A at the end. Three more recipes for that same group were then sent to students so that they could practise cooking ahead of the following session, with recipes using up leftover ingredients from the main one where possible. The lessons were made available to university students as well as post graduates and members of staff. Tzortzoglou says she intends to offer this course to other universities once she has gathered feedback from the University of Cumbria and its students. “This course will be of tremendous value to students post-Covid April-June 2021
because people in their twenties do not necessarily make good food their priority, often reaching out for something ready-made, not bothering to read food labels and consequently setting a pattern for mindless, unhealthy eating, often lasting for many years,” she says. “Giving summary information to young people in a way that they can understand, such as how to measure portion sizes on the palms of their hands, is a great way to go towards a healthier lifestyle in the future.” Tzortoglou has also set up an Instagram feed called Uni.Yum which aims to continue teaching and inspiring students beyond the course, as well as giving them a platform to showcase their own food and ask questions.
One of Uni.Yum’s recipes: A tart with turkey
Creating a foodie community As the executive chef of London-based Caravan and Vardo restaurants for the past six years, Matt Burgess found himself in a challenging situation in March 2020 when the UK went into lockdown. He has also previously worked as head chef at a Jamie Oliver restaurant and as a sous chef at Maze by Gordon Ramsay. “It was terrifying, we closed the restaurants in a week with no understanding of how long it would be or if we were going to reopen,” he says. “Caravan supported staff with every penny they could until we understood the furlough scheme and April-June 2021
was prompted to start a Whatsapp group so people could place orders. This group grew from 20 to 350 people.” Emily, a senior PR manager for a charity, handles the logistics side, taking orders, managing the website and customer service and organising deliveries. Food is delivered every Thursday and Friday with the menu featuring dishes such as smoked pork hot and sour curry and Spanish-influenced live fire dishes such as padron peppers with almond romesco sauce, grilled chorizo in sherry vinegar and smoked chicken with
how it was going to work out.” Burgess says his new business - Dinner from Valetta, came about as an accident. Named after the West London street he lives in, the business, which he started in April with his wife Emily, provides meals that are delivered chilled to residents in West London. “I had been given an upright smoker as a wedding gift and I spent weeks cooking food to keep myself occupied [during lockdown] and from the leftovers, we gave meal boxes out to local neighbours,” he says. “From there I 15
Dinner from Valetta: Matt and Emily Burgess
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FEATURE
piquillo peppers. The business is selffunded, with Burgess using suppliers he has previously worked with, while Smokey Oak BBQ has supplied him with British oak. “One of the main reasons we started Dinner from Valetta was the heartbreaking situation that my suppliers were in - with the restaurants closed they were going to struggle,” he explains. “Even though our contribution was tiny in comparison to the restaurants, we could highlight to locals that if they wanted to buy any particular product, we could put them in touch with our suppliers. We
Food Standards Agency, has seen a ‘concerning’ rise in food businesses operating out of people’s homes during lockdown. It says this has put pressure on an already overloaded hygiene inspection system. With the full reopening date for restaurants still up in the air, Burgess says his intention at present is to go back to Caravan to support the business. “However, as Dinner from Valetta continues to grow and we have some great people helping us out, eventually we would love this to be a fulltime business,” he says. “We are taking things week by week, for now we grow as the pandemic decreases.”
use a huge range of local suppliers, such as 2-Serve, a West London-based fruit and vegetable wholesaler, Dingley Dell meat reared in the UK, and vegan tofu from Yorkshire.” Up until December, Dinner from Valetta was producing nearly 200 meals a week all from a one-bedroom flat, but now operates from a rented commercial kitchen in North Acton. Burgess has communicated this to all the Whatsapp group members, reassuring them that his business is registered with the local council and is currently awaiting an inspection. This follows recent reports about how the food safety watchdog, The
Dishes from Dinner from Valetta: Chocolate dessert and green Thai curry
Scaling an online restaurant kits business Andy Waugh is the founder of restaurant and butcher Mac & Wild, showcasing produce from Scotland. The business has evolved from a pop-up in 2015 to two locations in London, with supper clubs and ‘wild cooking’ also hosted at a venue in www.worldfoodlife.uk
the Scottish Highlands. Last year, Waugh led an initiative with other independent restaurant operators to launch an online business delivering restaurant meal kits nationwide. Called ‘Restaurant Kits’, the idea was inspired 16
by the launch in May 2020 of Mac & Wild’s ‘venimoo burger kit’, based on its awardwinning venison and beef burgers. The venimoo kit contains meat, brioche buns, condiments and garnishes, allowing people to recreate the April-June 2021
Mac & Wild restaurant kits
Andy Waugh
April-June 2021
burger at home. “After the success of our venimoo kit we knew that this was a good way to connect with people all over the country (and further afield) and help supplement any losses,” says Waugh. “We have always talked about being able to get our brand into people’s homes but the [March] lockdown fast forwarded plans by six months.” Waugh says that sending out kits and operating a restaurant at the same time was not feasible, so he took over a warehouse and started operations from there. “We quickly outgrew the first place then moved to a bigger site,” he says. “We have just taken the site next door and are looking to take the site on the other side too.” Launching a new business
is always a challenge, particularly as this was a whole new sector (albeit still food-based), with little demand and awareness at the start. “We were motivated to sell Mac & Wild kits so we pushed hard to get the word out,” says Waugh. “We spoke to our friends in hospitality who were in the same boat. Our proposal was quite simple: give us a recipe and your suppliers and we’ll do the rest preparation, ordering, stock control, packing, dispatch, logistics, customer service and build a platform to sell it. All they have to do is promote their kits and we send them out. We knew it was a deal that worked for Mac & Wild so it was quite easy to pitch to other brands.” Waugh credits the 17
Restaurant Kits platform with keeping his restaurant concept alive and regrets not jumping in deeper from the start. “We should have gone bigger from the beginning - the response has been incredible and has kept Mac & Wild alive,” he says. “Without it we would not be trading. That’s not to say there hasn’t been some very dark moments - David Beckham posted a pic of his Venimoo box and it broke our systems.” Waugh says Restaurant Kits is a revenue stream that is here to stay. Instead of his customers coming from a 10-mile radius, he now has the whole of the UK to serve. He says that Mac & Wild now sells more burgers through Restaurant Kits each week than it did across its two London restaurants. www.worldfoodlife.uk
FEATURE
CLOSE TO HOME
Consumers are increasingly considering the impact of how and where food is produced before making a purchase Environmental organisation Hubbub carried out research in 2020 in the early days of the pandemic, looking at how Covid-19 had changed consumers’ shopping habits. A quarter of respondents said they were buying better quality food as they were not going out or spending money on other things. More than a third of those surveyed said they were supporting smaller/ local businesses more than ever before, while 29% said they were using their local corner shop/ convenience store for the first time. Fast forward to the present time. It’s been over a year since Covid-19 has impacted on our lives and a few months since the UK’s official exit from the European Union. The impact from both these lifechanging events on shopping
habits suggests that the emphasis on ‘local’ is here to stay. This could translate to food provenance (products made or sourced in the UK), the distance the food has travelled (its environmental
footprint) using local suppliers, or shopping a shorter distance from home.
Luminis Intelligence’s Future of Convenience Report 2021, released in February, points to this trend towards ‘local living’, with findings showing that 76% of those surveyed say ‘it’s important’ or ‘very important’ to support local suppliers and retailers, while 42% say they will continue to shop locally in the future. “Disrupted global supply chains and trade restrictions for businesses made local buying both a necessity and desire in 2020,” said Alice Dolling, senior insight manager at Lumina Intelligence. “This behaviour is expected to continue, with most consumers defining ‘local’ as ‘made in the UK’ – a trend that will be boosted by Brexit.”
Environmental impact It’s clear that consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the impact of how and where food was produced before making a purchase, or deciding where to eat. This emphasis on ‘local’ was highlighted further with a Government campaign that launched last summer. The ‘Shop Local Week’, which took place in August, encouraged people to visit local retailers as lockdown restrictions lifted, with the aim of helping local businesses recover after months of closure and/or reduced footfall. As part of the campaign, the Government highlighted how local shops often source their goods locally, helping to reduce their carbon footprint. It said that when shopping locally, people are also more likely to walk or cycle to get there – doing their bit to reduce air pollution, reduce traffic and improve the quality of the nation’s high streets. Alongside Covid, Brexit has had an impact too. Research released in January, from a survey of 2,000 adults, showed that more than a third of respondents are conscious of where their food comes from following Brexit, with 30 per cent willing to pay an average of 10 per cent more for a product if it is made in Britain. The survey, commissioned by food brand Crosse & Blackwell, showed that nine in 10 say it’s important for major brands to support British producers following the UK’s departure from the EU. www.worldfoodlife.uk
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April-June 2021
Inside the Supermarket of Dreams
Local heroes Fishmonger Chris D’Sylva, who owns Notting Hill Fish Shop, launched a second business last year, called Supermarket of Dreams, the first of which opened in Holland Park in west London. The concept is simple bringing together a local butcher, grocer and baker to ensure produce can be easily purchased or delivered to surrounding areas. It also offers restaurantstandard dishes created by chefs from some of London’s top restaurants, available to take away. As D’Sylva explains, most of the produce is locally sourced and seasonality and sustainability are at the core of the business’ ethos. He is also focusing on local in the sense of UKproduced, having formed an ‘alliance’ with the Looe fishing industry in Cornwall. “We deal in fresh wild fish and April-June 2021
rare breed meats, it has to be as local as we can make it,” he says. “We don’t believe in agriculture when the quality and the negative environmental impact outstrip the benefits. Provenance is so important to us that we are going vertical and getting people to directly produce for us.” The business is also embarking on a ‘micro manufacturing’ programme where it is engaging chefs and using under-utilised professional kitchens to create value and repurpose hospitality, producing everything from fresh pre-prepared meals to fish sausages. As D’Sylva outlines, the proof of the shop’s concept is down to its ingredients. “We don’t need a label, our produce is mostly in its original form and it is such high-quality that it speaks for itself; there is nowhere for it to hide,” he says. 19
Chris D’Sylva: locally-sourced produce and sustainability is key
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FEATURE
Back to basics Cumbria-based James Alexander Fine Foods supplies products such as bird roasts and sausages, all sourced locally, with the aim of working closely with local producers to promote the products to a wider audience. It also wants to make a difference by providing what it describes as ‘smoked meats and salmon from a bygone era’, where production methods have not changed for many centuries, and which it says remain true to this day. “Consumers are very much wanting to support smaller, artisan food producers since the pandemic began,” says founder Oliver NohlOser. “This is mainly because of the pressure smaller businesses are under now with many of their regular staff on furlough.” Ember Snacks, founded by brothers Harry and Jack Mayhew, supplies snacks such as biltong and charcuterie, made in the UK, and says it is on a mission to end factory farming and restore biodiversity to farms. “Consumers have access to information that they never had before and are more in tune with food and the way it is produced and the impact it can have on their health and on the planet,” says Harry Mayhew. “Climate [change] is a factor [in assessing a food’s journey] but health definitely plays a part too. The pandemic has heightened time that consumers have to delve into the detail and so this has definitely sped this process up. The key is finding ways to give consumers healthier choices, which are produced sustainably without asking them to pay more.”
Ember Snacks: produces biltong and charcuterie
He believes that showing transparency is easy when there is nothing to hide and says his business demonstrates this by ensuring that he and his brother are involved in every step of the process, right from the field the food is produced in. www.worldfoodlife.uk
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April-June 2021
James Alexander Fine Foods: specialises in bird roasts Ember Snacks: Harry and Jack Mayhew
There are challenges to overcome, however - such as fulfilling delivery demands or perhaps setting up a website to sell goods, all of which can put pressure on operating a business 24/7. While consumers are increasingly keen to focus on buying from local suppliers, or want to know more details about their food’s journey, ‘local’ does not necessarily equate to ‘fast’. As James Alexander’s Nohl-Oser points out,’ just in time’ delivery is difficult, and it can be a delicate balancing act as consumers now want their deliveries the next or same day. “They have to understand there is a process of creating these foods, whether it be sourcing the local game, or smoking the smoked foods and salmon,” he says. Local is also about building a community - Luminis’ report highlights that when shopping locally, ‘community involvement is pivotal in building loyalty and awareness. In fact, positive community involvement directly correlates with likelihood to recommend a store’, the report says. D’Sylva echoes this sentiment when describing his business. “The shop isn’t ours, it’s our customers,” he says. “Our stores are community hubs and we stock the shelves because they walk in and tell us to stock it, with everyone from famous chefs to high-profile restaurants providing products that they either make or know someone who does, so they all have a vested interest.” April-June 2021
Oliver Nohl-Oser: consumers are supporting artisan food producers
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NEWS INDUSTRY EVENT
Food Allergy Aware to host mock trial online
Food Allergy Aware is taking its mock trial event online, hosting the session together with law firm Blake Moore and supported by UK event agency McCullogh Moore. The ‘Mock Trial Food Allergy Prosecution Event’ has previously been held face-to-face for the last two years. In light of Covid-19, and with uncertainty surrounding the return of face-to-face events, the trial will now take place online on the 26 May. The ‘trial’ will explore a fictional scenario of a meal being served where the allergens are incorrectly labelled. The case will follow
the legal responsibilities of each entity involved in the processes in producing and serving the food, from chefs to food preparation assistants, examining personal and corporate responsibilities and how one slip up could be fatal, along with the legal consequences. The event will also feature a session with speakers from What Allergy, Nando’s, Centre Parcs and Food Standards Agency among others, sharing their experiences and best practice in providing for those with special diets. The event will be hosted via interactive platform PheedLoop,
which provides features such as ‘Live Presence Detector’. This shows where attendees are at any given time, enabling them to connect seamlessly during the event. Caroline Benjamin, founder of Food Allergy Aware said: “It was a tough judgement call to go virtual, as the event involves delegate interaction and discussion as attendees deliberate over the defendant’s fate. The decision was not taken lightly, but working with McCullough Moore, we believe our event is in good hands.” Shirley Rhodes, event director at McCullough Moore added: “The decision to go digital will not only ensure safety, but also guarantee that the event and the essential information it offers are delivered on the dates advertised.” The trial will also include the review of purchasing ingredients and product recall, and assess potential high-risk issues that need to be considered as part of the concept of due diligence. Sitting in the ‘mock court’ will be a judge, defence and prosecution barristers, the court clerk, and a fictional defendant with attendees acting as the jury, deliberating on the sentence in an interactive session. This is the third such event to take place and is aimed at anyone involved in the production of food, customer service and the booking and orders process. This includes contract catering as well as ‘not for profit’ settings, such as hospitals, education facilities and care home settings.
It was a tough judgement call to go virtual, as the event involves delegate interaction and discussion as attendees deliberate over the defendant’s fate. The decision was not taken lightly, but working with McCullough Moore, we believe our event is in good hands. Caroline Benjamin, Founder of Food Allergy Aware
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April-June 2021
www.currylife.uk
Culinary Workshop The Curry Life Culinary Workshop returns this summer, where we will focus on life after the Covid pandemic and how the curry industry can recover. Come and hear from the experts on how to get your back back on track. Please note, the event will only go ahead subject to the latest government guidelines. Regular updates on the event will be posted on our website and social media pages. Restaurateurs or chefs who are interested in attending must register in advance.
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Sunday, 27 June 2021 4pm - 10pm Radisson Blu Edwardian New Providence Wharf 5 Fairmont Ave, Poplar, London E14 9JB FURTHER DETAILS : 07956 588 777, 07956 439 458
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Curry Life Events, 23 Keswick Gardens, ILFORD, Essex, IG4 5NF, Email: info@currylife.com April-June 2021
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NEWS
Chinatown Bakery sets sights on expansion
Chinatown Bakery, which opened in Newport Place in London’s Chinatown in 2012, is opening a second site. The 400 sq ft bakery will be located in Wardour Street, and will feature
similar products to the original site, including Char Siu pork buns, egg tarts and pork floss buns. The new site will also feature a Taiyaki [a Japanese fish-cake machine] in the store window, creating fish-
Cobra Beer Presents: Dinner On Us Cobra Beer are proud to be once again supporting the hospitality industry with a brand new Social Media Promotion. From 17th May -21st June we will be offering 250 lucky winners, the chance to win a meal for 2 at their favourite Cobra Restaurant to the value of £50. The competition will run on Instagram and will require a simple tag and follow mechanic to enter. It will be open to all Cobra Customers, and is a great opportunity to boost your social media following and presence, sign up at www.eatoutwithcobrabeer.co.uk www.worldfoodlife.uk
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shaped waffles, with the aim of bringing the ‘theatre of the bakery’ to life. The pre-filled waffles will have flavours including custard and red bean paste. Wing Wing, which specialises in light, crispy chicken wings has also launched a restaurant in Chinatown. Julia Wilkinson, restaurant director at Chinatown owner Shaftesbury, said: “Chinatown London is the most authentic portrayal of Far East dining in Europe, so it is vital we continue to provide both the home comforts and new trends revered by our communities. Adding Chinatown Bakery and Wing Wing does just this – helping a much-loved brand built on tradition extend its presence at the destination, while introducing something new that reflects modern East and Southeast Asian foodie culture.” Simon Tang, co-owner at Chinatown Bakery added: “We are very proud of the name we have created for ourselves at Chinatown Bakery, and to announce that we will be opening a second location is a great demonstration of our work. We attribute our success to not only our brilliant selection of sweet and savoury goods, but also to being a part of the exceptional hospitality community within Chinatown London, there really is no comparison in location.” April-June 2021
Restaurants invest in outdoor space to get back to business Restaurants are taking advantage of government support and investing in outside space, with many counting on outdoor dining to give their businesses a muchneeded boost. With diners desperate to eat out, and restaurants equally desperate to welcome them, outdoor areas have been reinvented, created and spruced up. Government measures to support this include allowing outdoor shelters and marquees to be set up without planning permissions and a lower cost for temporary pavement licences. North London-based Yum Yum Thai is one example of a restaurant that has reinvented its outdoor space, and which sees this investment paying off in the long term. Its garden space, located at the front of the restaurant, has been landscaped, with the addition of decking and greenery, as well as a service station, enabling the restaurant to run a smoother operation. The refurbishment has increased the restaurant’s 22-cover capacity by 15, offering space for 37 diners. For owner Atique Choudhury, this is a ‘light investment’ that will benefit his business in the long-term. “Even after the opening of the main restaurant [on 17 May], the garden will be the focal point - we are hopefully heading towards a very hot summer so the garden area will be a blessing,” says Choudhury. “When people look at the restaurant the first thing they see is the garden, which looks inviting.” April-June 2021
The menu has also been slimmed down for the outside operation. Choudhury says that being flexible and willing to make changes is key to operating such a service - two booths offer additional shelter from the elements while blankets and heaters are available too. Several hundred outdoor seats have also been created around Covent Atique Choudhury @Yum Yum Garden, with a new alfresco seating plan spanning seven streets in the area as well as the central piazza. London’s Chinatown is also providing outdoor tables and seating for people to enjoy dishes under the area’s iconic red lanterns.
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FEATURE
Tickle
your taste buds
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April-June 2021
In 2020, with the Covid-19 pandemic forcing much of the world into lockdown at one stage or another, and with many living in enforced periods of isolation, attention inevitably turned towards wellbeing and mental health. Consumers incorporated immunityboosting foods into diets, opted for plant-based dishes or cut down on meat consumption as they sought healthier choices for the mind and body. Restaurant closures also led to many people getting more creative in the kitchen, experimenting with different cuisines and bolder flavours, cooking from scratch or honing their bread-baking skills. Food was seen as a form of
escapism and comfort, a trend that is likely to continue well into 2021. So what’s in store with regards to the food and drink trends and what key flavour concepts are likely to make their mark this year and beyond? A Mintel global food and drink trends report released in January points to how the environment, mental and emotional wellbeing and a person’s need to ‘feel special’ are key influences on food flavours. “The Covid-19 global pandemic has made consumers recognise that wellbeing is a vital concern,” says Alex Beckett, associate director at Mintel Food & Drink. “In the coming years, consumers will be looking for more products and services that
offer mental and emotional health benefits. People will make more serious commitments to reducing the health risks associated with unhealthy eating and become more interested in mindful and intuitive eating.” Examples of flavours and ingredients from the Mintel report include drinks with lion’s mane mushroom, muesli with zinc and seasoning containing Indian power herbs such as ceylon cinnamon and ashwagandha, also known as Indian ginseng or winter cherry. Ceylon cinnamon contains antiinflammatory and antioxidant properties while ashwagandha can help improve energy levels and concentration.
Raising the bar The report also points to the quality of food and drink being ‘redefined’, with consumers opting for upscale meals for special ‘hometainment’ occasions. With dining experiences at present limited to the home environment, it’s not surprising that people are craving more unusual tastes, and looking to take an everyday meal to the next level. “People’s taste palette is diversifying and as a result becoming more experimental,” says Emma Chiu, global director at Wunderman Thompson Intelligence, a global practice for insight, trends and innovation. ”These experiments would typically be reserved for dining out, but lockdown has given us the opportunity to broaden the pantry with a wider variety of ingredients and spices—bringing these experimental dishes to the home.” Chiu is the author of a report, The Future 100, another piece of research looking at food and drink trends in 2021. It points to three food ingredients making their mark, such as the Sichuan peppercorn, home-grown herbs with calming April-June 2021
and immunity-boosting properties to make into herbal teas and koji, a fungus prized in Japan. This is being used as a prime ingredient in plantbased meat alternatives on western grocery shelves. On the herbs side, the report points to how in New Zealand, there’s been a growing interest in rongoā, traditional Māori medicinal practices that feature herb teas. Examples include kawakawa, whose heart-shaped leaves steep into a digestive tonic, and manuka, which has antibacterial properties. As Chiu outlines, taking health precautions has been vital over the past year, therefore giving preventatives and immunestrengthening food and supplements a huge boost. As people spend more time at home, they are also looking at ways to be self-reliant. “Home gardening, particularly cultivating herbs that offer immunity-boosting or anxietyrelieving properties such as kawakawa, passionflower and chamomile are on the rise as a result,” she says. 27
Emma Chiu Global director at Wunderman Thompson Intelligence
Brody Sweeney, the founder of home delivery franchise Camile Thai Kitchen, which has locations in London and Ireland, says the trend towards healthier flavours is a result of a much bigger shift in society around overall health and wellbeing, and body image. “At Camile Thai, we believe that healthy eating will continue to drive the way we think about food as people become more health conscious, and for that reason, we are always evolving to meet the needs of our customers,” he says. “Most recently, we added a vegan Thai green curry with chickpeas to our menu to offer a plant-based option.” www.worldfoodlife.uk
FEATURE
Fruitful options
Rob Hobson Nutritionist
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Superfoods - the term for a food that contains a particularly high concentration of a certain nutrient that is thought to have a health benefit, have also proven popular in the past. Nutritionist Rob Hobson says that classic examples of foods that are labelled as being ‘superfoods’ include fruits and vegetables which are high in antioxidant compounds such as polyphenols, found in apples, berries, grapes and pomegranates. British Apples and Pears has teamed up with Hobson to promote the ‘Happy Apple Plan’, which highlights the benefits of eating an apple before a meal as part of a healthy diet. “No single food is going to prevent a disease no matter how much you eat of it,” he says. “It’s about the diet overall and given that only 30% of the population
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even eat five-a-day, just eating more in general would be ‘super’ in terms of improving your health.Try to base your diet around these foods to help optimise your health – eating lots of fruits and vegetables such as apples and pears is a very good place to start,” he says. Pears provide a great source of dietary fibre which can be crucial for digestive health. Nutritionist Lily Souter is also working with British Apples and Pears, highlighting why these are some of the best foods to consume during pregnancy and how to incorporate more fruit into diets. For a fast, simple and delicious dish she suggests trying a simple grilled mackerel and pear salad recipe, served with sliced fennel, lemon juice, watercress, pumpkin seeds and creme fraiche.
April-June 2021
Bando Belly’s focus is on soul food with flavours inspired by America, the Caribbean and South East Asia
Sensory experiences If the popularity of home delivery kits replicating a fine dining experience at your kitchen table is anything to go by, expect a demand for decadent, indulgent textures too. Wunderman Thompson Intelligence’s Chiu says that along with desiring more complex and experimental flavours at home, people will also be looking at up-leveling the overall sensory experience, which includes incorporating layered textures in a single dish—perhaps even in a single bite. She describes this as Michelin-star home-chefs in the making. Chef Naz Ramadan and Alex Situnayake are the co-founders of South London-based Bando Belly, which opened in January. It offers cuisine influenced by flavours April-June 2021
Rob Chef Naz Ramadan and Alex Situnayake Co-founders of South London-based Bando Belly
from America, the Caribbean and South East Asia. Dishes include Bara Tacos, a spin on traditional ‘Trinidadian doubles’, featuring fried bread with a chickpea filling, and south east Asian-influenced lamb ribs topped with smacked cucumbers, fish sauce and fresh mint. 29
“A few things driving consumers tastes will be healthier/vegan options just because this is becoming a mainstream lifestyle for many people in the UK,” says Ramadan. As a chef, she has also noted a significant growth in South American and Latin food and an increase in popularity of Filipino and Korean flavours. “People in the UK are always looking for the next spicy sauce or paste and we’ve seen many food brands use this to their advantage,” she adds. “But this year we will see more Korean pepper paste such as Gochujang and West African heat like Suya spice. A big thing in the future will be taking rustic cuisines and flavours and making these more contemporary.” www.worldfoodlife.uk
BUSINESS PROFILE
Out of
Africa
Photo credit: Nassima Rothacker
Pop-ups, supper clubs, festivals, restaurants, a fine dining experience and an online food venture ... Zoe Adjonyoh takes us on her culinary journey www.worldfoodlife.uk
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April-June 2021
Chef Zoe Adjonyoh, who specialises in West African cuisine, is currently based in New York. Despite doing this interview via Zoom and without any dishes or a kitchen in sight, you can sense her passion for food and the recognition that it can bring people together, which seems particularly relevant in the context of the last year. Over lockdown, where she has been based both in the UK and the US, she’s had time to reflect on the last ten years, which has seen her launch several Ghanian-themed food pop-ups, host supper clubs, cook at festivals, write a cookery book and open a restaurant in Brixton. Her latest venture is an online store celebrating West African spices. But more on that later.
It also made me realise how little people knew about African food - some people had no idea where Ghana was.” At the time, Adjonyoh was studying for an MA in creative writing (having previously done a law degree). She repeated the same food formula for the 2011 WickED festival, but this time garnering even more attention and positive feedback. She realised the venture could make some money to help finance her studies.
Food for the masses
It was during a trip to Berlin in 2012 that the idea of a supper club was born, where she cooked for up to
Creating connections
Adjonyoh says she got into food ‘by accident’, with her perceptions of food, cooking and eating having been shaped by her dual heritage (she has an Irish mother and a Ghanian father). “Food was about inviting people back to my parents’ home, it went beyond nourishment and sustenance,” she says. “It was about connections - particularly to my father and to Ghana and I always wanted to find out more about it.” Her first experience of cooking for and serving customers was during Hackney’s WickED Festival in 2010, an event promoting local arts and culture. Realising there was little in the way of food and drink for passing festival-goers (Adjonyoh lived in a nearby flat at the time), she seized an opportunity to feed the masses, cooking up a storm with her peanut butter stew. “We had nothing - we borrowed pots and pans and a portable stove and a friend made a sign for my peanut butter stew,” she recalls. “The smell drew people in - the stew has both a sweet and a savoury smell and we sold out. April-June 2021
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ten people at one time - more out of a need to finance her trip than anything else - another reference to her way of finding things out by accident. This generated more publicity from blogs, the press and word-of-mouth, resulting in more people wanting to try the food. “I realised I was offering people an environment where they could not only eat West African food, but where they could also do so in a fun environment and have a wider conversation about the culture,” says Adjonyoh. “Bringing African food to the masses very quickly became my mission statement.” Adjonyoh ploughed her energy and her resources into a number of food initiatives - catering at festivals and supper clubs and running popups and residencies. A restaurant was the natural next step; having secured a space in a converted shipping container at south London’s POP Brixton, Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen opened in May 2015. “I put all my savings into this www.worldfoodlife.uk
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Brixton was a labour of love,” recalls Adjonyoh. “Everything was upcycled or recycled, friends helped me - it helped create a community feeling, which was important to me as a young entrepreneur.” She had to deal with many challenges early on however, and without any mentors helping her, Adjonyoh admits it was a bit hit and miss. While the restaurant was busy from when it first opened, much of it was in an open-air space - when winter arrived and with it, the bad weather, footfall decreased dramatically. It was a case of being busy - often far too busy in the summer months, when Adjonyoh struggled to cope with the numbers and the orders, and not being full enough at other times of the year. “The unit was too small and we couldn’t turn enough covers around to make a profit - we only had room for 8-10 covers inside and the outdoor space was subject to the elements,” she says. April-June 2021
During this time, Adjonyoh also planned her debut cookbook Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen, which was published in 2017 (and which has recently been re-released). She had mixed feelings about the project, however, but has been pleasantly surprised at the attention and praise the book has attracted. “I was working flat out at the Brixton site and putting recipes together at 4am - it was manic but a really good experience - I put a lot of myself into the book,” she says.
Changing times
It wasn’t until January 2018 that Adjonyoh turned her back on POP Brixton, unhappy with how the site had been managed but not before she lost a considerable sum of money and ‘lost confidence in the machinations of the industry’. She focused her energy instead on catering residencies and food festivals - a more dependable side of the food business as catering comes with fixed costs. Long hours and managing a team of ten took its toll on her health, however, and led to Adjonyoh travelling to New York a year later to take a break and reassess her business objectives. “I had a vision of a ‘Ghana kitchen’ and promoting West African food, but I felt I was being positioned as something different to this,” she explains. “I decided to focus instead on a venture offering a more refined menu.” Enter the world of Sankofa (which translates as ‘go back and fetch it’), a private dining experience offering 12 seats, 12 courses and 12 sessions, as well as providing a food consultancy service. The first one launched in March 2020 at Adjonyoh’s flat in Hackney Wick - needless to say, the rest of the planned series of events was derailed by the Covid-19 pandemic, putting paid to this venture prematurely. While this resulted in a further loss of considerable funds, Adjonyoh April-June 2021
turned this situation into a positive - starting up a crowdfunding project to finance a community kitchen, pay her overheads and help to feed people during the early days of the pandemic. Over the next couple of months, she cooked up to 500 meals a week for vulnerable people in the area as well as local NHS staff.
Onwards and online
Using West African ingredients to help feed the community inspired her latest venture. It’s an e-commerce operation which Adjonyoh hopes will ‘help people take back control of the ingredients used in their food and reimagine ‘healthy eating’ through an African lens’, all under the brand of ‘Zoe’s Spice House’. Customers can purchase items such as jollof or yaji spice mixes, alongside different types of salt and spice powders. Adjonyoh describes it as a social impact business - as the business grows, she says at least 50% of its workforce will be from marginalised communities, and she aims to send 10% of gross profits from the online shop to causes she cares about, such as Black Lives Matter. But it’s her connection with her customers that Adjonyoh misses most and while she hasn’t ruled out supper clubs in the future, for the present time, her efforts are focused online. Alongside her spice shop, she has created a ‘room’ on the invite-only social media audio app Clubhouse, called ‘Cooking up consciousness’, where she hosts a regular session once a week. Topics have included celebrating women food innovators, food and justice, food tech and culinary appropriation. “I get to speak to a lot of amazing people through my work and it’s really uplifting - this project is all about curation, bringing together topics such as food, wellness and mindfulness,” she says. 33
I was working flat out at the Brixton site and putting recipes together at 4am - it was manic but a really good experience - I put a lot of myself into the book
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INTERVIEW
A view from
Chef Santosh Shah The former Masterchef: The Professionals contestant shares the secrets of his success www.worldfoodlife.uk
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April-June 2021
What inspired you to become a chef? I spent my childhood in Nepal, moving to India when I was 14 or 15 years old. I started working as a kitchen porter and studied for a culinary diploma, gaining experience. I decided I wanted more international exposure, so I went abroad to Montenegro to work in a five-star hotel. I didn’t enjoy this however - it was not what I was expecting, but I stayed for one year to build up the work experience and enhance my CV, before moving back to India. I put everything to the test to keep learning and improving whatever I learnt in one year in Montenegro, I experimented with when I returned to India. I then worked at a food festival which was featured in a newspaper, which led to a job in London. How did your career develop? When I first came to London, around 2010, I worked in a curry house, which wasn’t a great experience. I then worked at Dishoom, before moving to Michelin-starred Benares restaurant, which had a great work culture in the kitchen. Everyone was motivated, competitive and looking for new recipes, and I took all of this in. While at Benares, a colleague entered the Masterchef competition which sparked my interest, but they only lasted one round. This scared me so I prepared for the show for the next five years. I was at Benares for three years but I knew that I needed to refine my techniques and knowledge of French cuisine, which took me to Brasserie Blanc [Raymond Blanc’s restaurants], which was a great experience. I was then at Cinnamon Kitchen. Most recently, I was at the LaLit London hotel, but there were many management changes which didn’t create the best environment, so I returned to Cinnamon Kitchen. What motivates you? When I came to the UK, I really appreciated what it is to be a chef - in India at that time, there was no chef culture. I pushed myself, met different people and got support from mentors, particularly at Benares. I like to be inventive too - I was brave enough to cook and combine octopus with spices at The Cinnamon Club. I define myself as an innovative chef.
Santosh Shah
How have you been keeping busy during the various lockdowns? I’ve had so much time to research food and look at new recipes. I’ve also been busy on social media and developing these channels. April-June 2021
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Nepalese Lamb Curry
Lockdown has taught me how to make the most of my free time, and I’ve also been developing a cookbook. What’s been the best advice you’ve received? I have worked with Vivek Singh, executive chef of The Cinnamon Collection, the group of five restaurants which includes Cinnamon Kitchen, for a number of years. He told me to just be myself and you will find success in your life. There is no need to copy anyone - act like who you are, be how you are, be yourself and do what you love and what makes you happy. What’s your biggest regret? Not having been more passionate about world cuisine earlier on in my career. I tend to always focus on Nepalese/Indian cuisine - it wasn’t until I came to London that I focused on world cuisine. I should have done some research and practice when I was in India, but I am very proud of what I have achieved thus far.
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Any tips for aspiring Masterchef contestants? Just be yourself - it’s a lot tougher than what you see on television. The chefs I competed against were so strong but it was an amazing experience. Practice as much as you can! What’s your favourite dish and how do you like to unwind? I like to cook fish and lamb with smoky and chargrilled barbecue flavours. I’m a real fan of comfort food and prefer to have home cooked dishes, Nepalese-style. I like to watch movies in my spare time - particularly documentaries about chef and cooking shows. What’s in the pipeline? My ambition is to open a high-end Nepalese restaurant. We are talking to a range of investors but the plans are delayed slightly due to the Covid situation. We hope to be able to announce something by the end of this year or the middle of next year.
April-June 2021
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INGREDIENTS
What’ in tore Ceylon cinnamon
Spring is traditionally a time to clear some space and try something new. So take a look at your store cupboard here are some foods guaranteed to add some spice
Chickpeas
With its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, ceylon cinnamon, which hails from Sri Lanka, can help protect the body from disease and improve your gut health. Research from Aberdeen University, published in late 2019, also pointed to how the spice could prove effective when managing diabetes. The spice is commonly used for desserts or baking but you can also combine it with hot water to make a refreshing cinnamon tea. Its mild flavour makes it an ideal addition to chicken curry, creating a delicate and not overpowering taste.
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Hailed as the ‘new cauliflower’, chickpeas are balanced with protein, healthy fats, fibre, and complex carbohydrates, which helps round out any meal what’s not to like about the humble chickpea? As Sophie Bertrand and Bari Stricof, authors of Forking Wellness: Your No-Nonsense Guide to Health and Nutrition, explain,”chickpeas can be the main protein source of a meal or they can be simply added to any meal or snack to boost the overall nutrition and leave you feeling satisfied. Plus, they taste great and are incredibly diverse. From soups, stews, curries, salads, roasted, or mashed (such as in hummus), chickpeas are used in a variety of different cultures. Additionally, chickpeas provide vitamin C, B6, and folate.”
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Gourmet salt
Demand for gourmet salt is on the rise, most likely fuelled by people home cooking over the last year, experimenting with seasoning and taste. One such variety of gourmet salt is Himalayan Pink Salt, which not only looks good but which tastes good too. Supermarket Tesco says: “It has a milder salt flavour when compared to table, rock and sea salts, which means that it is best for dishes with delicate flavour. Perfect for use on salads or shellfish.”
Hot Honey This is honey infused with fresh or dried hot peppers, which you can drizzle on pizzas, chicken wings, cured meats anything to which you want to add a real flavour kick. Its taste has been described as part of the ‘sweet and heat’ trend, and some diehard fans have been known to add it to ice cream.
Pumpkin seed oil With quite a strong, nutty flavour, pumpkin seed oil is widely used drizzled on salads, over pastas and in soups. Retailer Whole Foods said people are increasingly experimenting with different oil flavours, trying walnut oils, pumpkin seed oils and sunflower seed oils rather than the more common olive oil.
Pickling power It’s no secret that the UK was obsessed with baking bread last spring during the first lockdown. 2021 is shaping up to be all about pickling. With many of us having much more time on our hands, it’s the ideal environment to try your hand at home pickling and it’s a great way to reduce waste as you can use up leftover vegetables. Have a go at making sauerkraut using white cabbage or if you are craving something spicy, try your hand at Korean kimchi. Both these foods are great for an immune boost too. If you have more of a sweet tooth, focus on the art of preservation, making your own jams and jellies. April-June 2021
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INGREDIENTS
Sambal Wayanad peppercorns
This fiery red chilli paste from south-east Asia has been called ‘the sauce that can do anything’. It’s a big reputation to live up to but many people add it to noodle dishes, soups, stews, meat (it’s great with fried chicken) rice, and even eggs and it works equally well as a fiery marinade or dipping sauce. It’s a great way to add some kick to your dish or if you are cooking for people with different tastes, let them add their own to spice up the dish.
This ingredient is on Waitrose’s 2021 list of foods to look out for. These peppercorns are grown in the Wayanad district of Kerala in south west India and are reputed to be the finest pepper in India. Think spicy combined with a slight citrus flavour - as Waitrose highlights, they are harvested by hand in Kerala, where they’re left to ripen on the vine. They have health benefits too - adding these peppercorns to dishes can ease digestion, while it is also a good source of vitamin C.
Tinned fruit With pubs and bars now allowed to serve drinks outdoors, you might not want to make your own cocktails at home anymore. But if you have the odd can of tinned fruit lying around, such as tinned peaches, chef Jamie Oliver suggests using it to make a peach Bellini. If you fancy another fruit-flavoured cocktail, try making a jam daiquiri with raspberry or strawberry jam.
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A Covid-busting
recipe for success
Whilst restaurants across the country have started to reopen, they are limited by their existing premises as to what they can serve up outside. But that didn’t stop, Skewd Kitchen, London, where they re-invent the traditional when it comes to kebab cuisine. They have come up with a novel way to circumnavigate the current Covid restrictions for eating out and it’s all above board. The restaurant has taken its multi award-winning Anatolian cooking style even further back to its roots, with the launch of Skewd at Belmont, which involves food being cooked on an open firepit using charcoal alongside wood from the trees at the farm in Mill Hill, London. Skewd at Belmont is an outdoor dining pop-up like no other and will be in place until September. The venue can cater for up to 100 in a marquee with seating for a further 50 diners outside. It has also enabled the business to take on 25 new staff, including five apprentices. Maz Demir, Executive Chef and Owner of Skewd Kitchen, and April-June 2021
the newly launched Skewd at Belmont, said: “We have missed our customers being able to dine with us, so much over the last year, so, we have brought the Skewd experience outdoors to the beautiful Belmont Farm in Mill Hill. We are really going back to our roots, cooking over open firepits in the traditional way. The idea is to create a warm, family feel with a touch of luxury in the midst of the stunning natural beauty of the British countryside.” Skewd at Belmont will be offering well-known Skewd dishes, cooked traditionally amid natural stunning views of the British countryside and rolling hills. Maz Demir has also recently joined the Kebab Alliance, the UK body that represents the kebab industry. Demir comments: “It’s important for the kebab industry and the hospitality sector as a whole that it has a representative body, particularly during such challenging times, so we can all support each other, as we rebuild 41
and re-open.” Ibrahim Dogus, founder of the British Kebab Awards and Chair of the Kebab Alliance said: “The hospitality sector has gone through a hellish time – probably the worse amongst all industries – during the last 12 months and it’s great to see examples such as Skewd making a comeback in such an innovative way to continue serving up kebab culinary delights to their customers. “The kebab industry has like the rest of the food service industry been on its knees with the impact of the different lockdowns, staff returning overseas to where they live, high rent costs and increasing meat prices.” Further information, please visit: skewd.com www.worldfoodlife.uk
RESTAURANT REVIEW
2
It takes
Over the recent lockdown, WFL tried Middle Eastern fare at Château and a DIY box from Asian restaurant Yuu Kitchen Château opened in Chiswick in West London seven years ago, as ‘Château Desserts’, with the business primarily focused on a supplier of desserts. That still stands true today but it has since branched out to providing lunch and then dinner - under the theme of ‘Lebanese Nights’, and rebranding to simply ‘Chateau’ three years ago. More recently, the restaurant has added brunch/breakfast to the menu. Director Annette Megyaszai says the beauty of having a Lebanese menu is that ‘you can have a different meal every time by mixing the mezze options up. It allows you to taste so many different options’.
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Popular dishes such as chicken shawarma are cooked with succulent thigh meat so it remains tender and juicy, while the lamb shawarma is made with lamb steak. “The classic Lebanese flavours, sumac and great quality olive oil are essential,” says Megyaszai. “Mouhammra [a hot pepper dip] is also popular and not so frequently seen but utterly delicious with roasted peppers, walnuts and spices. We make ours without breadcrumbs so it is gluten free too.” We tried the classics for starters - hummus, which was not too oily or salty and had a lovely depth of flavour and a refreshing tabbouleh, before moving on to hot mezze. The lamb shawarma with a pomegranate glaze travelled well, preserving its heat and was delicious, with a spicy, sweet flavour. Tender chicken taouk (skewered chicken) was generously spiced with sumac. The spicy sujuk (sausage) lacked the fire and punch that the dish promised and had a little too much garlic, while the grilled halloumi was at the other extreme, lacking flavour, but the side dishes - Lebanese vermicelli rice and spicy potatoes (with coriander, sumac and chilli) more than made up for this. We had room for some baklava which was delicious - everything it should be without being too heavy. Château’s other desserts - a mouthwatering selection of cakes, are mostly gluten-free with vegan options available too. Megyaszai says this works well with the brunch and dinner menu as there are many options in both menus catering to different diets. The restaurant reopened on 12 April for outdoor dining and is planning on adding more unusual items to the dinner menu. “This includes ‘escargot Lebanese way’ - we very much look forward to hearing feedback on this and other exciting additions too,” says Megyaszai. April-June 2021
Château 213 Chiswick High Road Chiswick London W4 2DW www. chateau-chiswick.com
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A taste of
Asia
Yuu Kitchen, in London’s Spitalfields, opened in 2016, inspired by the flavours of southeast Asia and the Pacific Rim (think Japanese, Taiwanese, Vietnamese and Hawaiian), with a dedicated section to Filipino cuisine in a nod to head chef Jon de Villa’s heritage. He previously worked at Nobu, Zafferano and Bone Daddies. The emphasis is very much on dining in a fun, casual environment, with the restaurant’s physical space featuring original artwork from Hong Kong-based Lun Wong. The illustrations feature strong influences from Manga, Asian fashion, comic-book and pop culture – styles that are all synonymous with Lunatic’s work. Sadly, we weren’t able to see this artwork in person as a visit to the restaurant was not possible due to lockdown restrictions, so the next best thing was trying the food at home. The restaurant kits offer a choice of three menus - the classic bao, veggie bao and the chicken boxes, available nationwide for delivery. They also feature a playful element - the complimentary ‘Face On Bao’ service invites customers to submit a photo to personalise their bao. This comes in the form of an edible paper, added to the top of the bao. We tried the chicken option, the ‘chicken chicken box’. On arrival, everything was well packed with the different elements clearly marked, so it was both easy to see which ingredients were needed for each stage, and quick to assemble on the kitchen counter. There was quite a bit to take in: turmeric
Shichimi chilli chocolat mousse
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DIY restaurant kits have been all the rage during lockdown, giving people the chance to try restaurant-quality food at home with (allegedly) only the minimum of work. We tried Yuu Kitchen’s ‘Yuu Cook Yuu Kits’.
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water, cabbage, a selection of Thai herbs, chilis and cucumber to slice, some lime and various sauces and condiments, and it all looked delicious! Our starter was turmeric-flavoured rice paper wraps with ‘brick chicken’., While it was fun to make and it felt like you were actually ‘cooking’ something, it was slightly fiddly, as you have to coat the rice paper with just the right amount of water to make it pliable - which was harder than it looked! Luckily you get a couple of extra pieces of rice paper thrown in, just in case you rip them all. It was the first time we had rolled these rice paper wraps so it was something of a work in progress. The brick chicken was delicious, with enough to enjoy in the wraps and on the side. The next course - soy and buttermilk panko chicken bao was very easy to put together and tasted good too, particularly with the addition of condiments such as Carolina Reaper mayo, chilli and daikon pickle - although the mayo could easily have been hotter! You can appreciate all the elements that go into making such a dish and with the detailed instructions, it was fun to put together too. The best is sometimes left to the last no exception here as we found the star of the show was firecracker chocolate mousse pots, which were both fiery and indulgent. Yuu Kitchen is planning on expanding its ‘at home’ kits as well as opening other, smaller eateries in other parts of London and further afield. De Villa says the most popular dishes thus far are ‘tuna tostada’, ‘crispy rice and salmon’ and sweet and sticky eggplant’. “These dishes were created from my experiences and travels,” says De Villa, who has travelled extensively over the last ten years from his native Australia, working in the Maldives and the UK. “We want to bring the multicultural diversity of Asian food that we grew up with in Australia and bring it to London.” April-June 2021
Yuu Kitchen: Chicken Chicken Box
Yuu Kitchen 29 Commercial Street London E1 6NE https://www.yuukitchen.com/
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RECIPE
avour the sunshine
Get ready for the summer months with some refreshing, light, sweet and savoury recipes featuring South African apples and pears
South African Pink Lady Apple Pancakes with butterscotch sauce Serves: 4 Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Ingredients Butterscotch sauce 50g butter 50g soft brown sugar 2tbsp golden syrup 2tbsp single or double cream Pancakes 120g plain flour Pinch of salt 1 large egg 300ml milk 2-3tsp vegetable oil 20g butter 2 South African Pink Lady apples, cored and thinly sliced 1tbsp caster sugar Method For the butterscotch sauce, put the butter, brown sugar and syrup into a heavy-based saucepan and heat very gently until melted and smooth, though do not boil. Stir in the cream and set aside. For the pancakes, beat together the flour, salt, egg www.worldfoodlife.uk
and milk with a wire whisk or stick blender to make a smooth batter. Heat a large nonstick frying pan and add a few drops of oil. Pour in a quarter of the batter, tilting the pan so that the batter flows over the surface. Cook over a medium heat for 1-2 minutes until set on the surface, then flip over to cook the other side. Make 4 pancakes in total, keeping them in a warm place. Heat the butter in the frying pan and cook the apples for 3-4 minutes, turning often. Add the sugar and cook until lightly browned. Serve with the pancakes, drizzled with butterscotch sauce. 46
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South African Pear, Gorgonzola and Butternut Risotto Serves: 4 Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 35 minutes Ingredients 2tbsp olive oil 300g risotto rice 300g prepared butternut squash, chopped into small chunks (about 1cm) 100ml dry white wine 1 litre vegetable stock 1tbsp chopped fresh sage or thyme 1 South African pear, cored and thinly sliced Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 40g finely grated Parmesan cheese 250g Gorgonzola South African pear slices and a few sage or thyme leaves, for garnish Method Heat the oil in a large saucepan or deep-sided frying pan. Add the rice and butternut squash and cook over a low heat for 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly. Take care that the rice doesn’t burn. Pour in the wine and allow it to bubble up and evaporate. Pour about one-third of the stock into the pan and cook the risotto over a low heat, stirring often, until the liquid has almost been absorbed. Gradually add the remaining stock and continue to cook gently until it has all been absorbed, and the rice is swollen and tender. This will take about 25-30 minutes. Add the sage or thyme, South African pear slices, lemon zest and Parmesan. Cook, stirring, for another 2-3 minutes. Serve each portion topped with a generous slice of Gorgonzola, garnished with pear slices and sage or thyme.
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BOOK REVIEW
RECIPE FOR
As a self taught chef, cook books have always played a vital role in my culinary education. Reading and cooking from The Noodle Cook Book has considerably boosted my knowledge of this Asian staple, which has long been one of my favourite things to eat. Authenticity in a book is important to me, I always strive to learn from somebody who truly understands his craft. Damian Lee’s passion and expertise is clear as you read about each noodle’s origin country, its texture and size and how to cook each type to its best advantage. He has included a great many of his favourite recipes and peppers them generously with professional tips to really help the reader up their game in their culinary skills. Classics, such as noodle soups and stir fry recipes from all over Asia feature, as well as clever and innovative fusion dishes that surprise and delight. I’m impressed that there are recipes to make your own ‘from scratch’ sauces, including hoisin, teriyaki, satay and fish sauces. Not only do these recipes help explain the building blocks of flavour for many dishes, they are also much healthier in that they are free of additives and contain far less salt and sugar than shop-bought ones. A standout feature of the book is the hero ingredients section. Each recipe has a “hero” with a helpful page reference so you can quickly cross check to see all the health benefits that ingredients will bring to the dish. Also helpful are the evocative and concise introductions to each recipe that describe the history of the dish, alongside tweaks to make the recipe gluten- free, meat-free or plant-based. The book is a lighthearted, fun read and visually very appealing. The graphics are informative yet playful and the food photography is vivid, inviting and makes everything look absolutely delicious. London-based Hannah Summers is a self-taught cook who has worked as a personal chef for various people in the music and arts industries for more than 15 years. The Noodle Cook Book by Damien Lee is published in April by Ebury Press. Sadly, Lee, the founder of Mr Lee’s Noodles and Mr Lee’s Pure Foods, passed away at the end of January.
SUCCESS
Photography by Haraala Hamilton
March was National Noodle Month so what better way to celebrate than trying out a few recipes from The Noodle Cook Book, says Hannah Summers.
The Noodle Cookbook 101 healthy and delicious noodle recipes for happy eating Damien Lee Paperback, 208 pages Published March 4th 2021 by Ebury Press 1529107466 (ISBN13: 9781529107463)
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