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The way we eat is constantly evolving. World Food Life takes a look at why immersive dining, plantbased eating and sustainability are just three of the trends taking off in 2022 and how they are making an impact

Recruitment woes The hospitality industry is struggling to find the right staff. Industry experts and trade bodies discuss why the sector is facing a staffing crisis and what measures need to be taken to help attract more people

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New Zealand chef Chantelle Nicholson was previously at Tredwell’s, before running a pop-up during lockdown. She’s spent the last year refining the concept for her new venture, Apricity, and is excited about what the future holds

info@worldfoodlife.com Contributors

Steve Watkins Lee Lixenberg Sam Smith Shamsul Islam Samuel Ahmed Shafiur Rahman Amjad Suleman

Food for thought World Food Life showcases the latest food trends, from tea tree oil to foraged cocktails and from cooking with spices to the rise of redemptive diets. Find out what should be in your store cupboard in the coming months.

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Bringing the Philippines to a wider audience

Dominic Chapman Rupert Rowley Mo Gherras

Rowena Romulo opened her second restaurant concept, Kasa and Kin, in October. She talks about opening post-pandemic, where she gets her inspiration from and why Filipino food is the next big thing

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Three of a kind World Food Life visited three restaurants this month in London, Putney’s Coppa Club, the Copper Chimney at London Westfield and Pataka in the heart of the West End.

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The World Food Life is a Quarterly trade magazine for restaurants, such as Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, Japanese, Turkish, Middle Eastern and other world cuisines. The World Food Life is part of the Curry Life Media Group and Curry Life Events Limited. Although it is mailed out directly to trade, it can also be obtained by subscription for £35 a year (UK) and £50 elsewhere. Postage included. Reproduction of its contents in whole or part without written permission is not permitted. We are an ethical magazine committed to fair, responsible reporting and comment. We cannot be held accountable for editorial or advertising errors, omissions or claims.

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Contents

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Dining evolution

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Battle for

Trends to watch out for

With Covid restrictions

having eased across the UK, it seemed like the hospitality industry had finally turned a corner. Many businesses in the sector however are now facing what UKHospitality describes as a ‘tidal wave of rising costs’. Supply chain issues, rising energy costs, adverse weather and the ongoing conflict between Ukraine and Russia mean businesses are now facing a very uncertain future. UKHospitality believes businesses have several hurdles to clear on the road to recovery: huge accumulated debts; unprecedented rising costs for energy and raw goods; a chronic shortage of staff; and a fundamentally unfair and crippling business rates regime. In this issue, we look at what the sector can do to bounce back from the staffing crisis. Industry experts believe that changing perceptions is key to boosting the numbers of people wanting to work in hospitality, particularly when it comes to attracting the under-30s. Others say there is a lack of robust career pathways from education to employment in hospitality, with many colleges having closed their hospitality and catering departments as they are expensive to operate commercially. The next few months will be a crucial time for many vulnerable hospitality businesses - many establishments that survived the pandemic face an ongoing battle to continue trading.

Opening post-Covid Apricity and Kasa and Kin, two restaurants that opened post-pandemic, tell World Food Life what lessons they have learnt and how they plan to 3

The hospitality industry is known for being innovative and inventive and in this issue, we highlight some of the latest food and dining trends making their mark. On the food front, these include moringa, Peruvian gooseberries, curry leaves and tea tree oil, known as ‘the olive oil of the East’ and packed with antioxidants. As well as making a flavourful addition to houmous, a potato salad or boiled rice, curry leaves have also been used in Ayurvedic medicine, an Indian holistic approach to healing that is over 3,000 years old. Kelp is also another ingredient going mainstream and what’s more, it removes carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and nitrogen from the ocean. In keeping with the rise in sustainable eating, we also look at why ‘redemptive diets’, which call for new approaches and attitudes to food systems and the reasons why we eat, and how we should eat, are growing in popularity. www.worldfoodlife.uk

Editorial

hit the ground running. Apricity, as chef-owner Chantelle Nicholson explains, is showcasing seasonal flavours as well as championing dishes and produce that people don’t necessarily love. As Nicholson puts it, in a sense it’s about ‘working backwards’, asking suppliers what they need help selling, with Nicholson keen to minimise waste and champion sustainability. At Filipino-themed Kasa and Kin, owner Rowena Romulo is on a mission to raise the profile of Filipino cuisine, which she believes is underrepresented compared to other foods. Alongside sandwiches using the Romulo family’s pandesal bread recipe, Kasa and Kin offers a range of ‘Imbento’ lunch boxes and patisserie-style desserts and afternoon tea, while the evening fare features a pinoy robata grill offering BBQ sticks and a curated selection of artisanal cocktails.

NEWS

Food price hikes pile pressure on hospitality industry Mounting food prices, driven by supply chain

issues, the sharp rise in energy bills and the conflict in Ukraine, are putting increasing pressure on the hospitality industry.

number of staff or cut back on expensive ingredients. Mark Poynton, chef-owner at MJP Restaurants, says that the current situation means that customers will unfortunately have to take a price increase.

Many restaurants are being forced to increase the price of food on their menus, reduce the

The British Takeaway Campaign, which represents those involved in the supply and preparation of the nation’s

favourite foods, says it had heard from many of its members that the price of ingredients and goods is skyrocketing. It said it was disappointed by the Chancellor of the Exchequer’s spring statement, delivered last month, and said there was very little that would do much to ease the cost burden that small businesses in its sector are facing currently. “We will continue to make the case to the Government that more needs to be done to support struggling food businesses in the context of high inflation and cost pressures across the board,” it said. Hospitality businesses are also now subject to VAT at 20%, with the rate having risen from 12.5%. Trade body UKHospitality said that in a sector facing soaring costs and plummeting consumer confidence, the increase in VAT gives operators no choice but to pass on price rises. UKHospitality CEO Kate Nicholls said: “Given the unfolding costof-living crisis for consumers and soaring operating costs for businesses the return to 20% VAT for the sector will prove nothing less than catastrophic. “The now inevitable price rises for consumers will dampen demand and many hospitality businesses – one in three having less than a month of cash reserves and most are carrying heavy debt burdens – will fail as a result. This can only cause the UK’s wider economic recovery to falter.” UKHospitality said it will continue to work closely with government to achieve the best possible trading conditions for the industry and keep pushing for reform of fundamentally unfair and crippling business rates.

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Yondu creates vegan Food Standards Agency launches -based canapés Seasoning five-year strategy brand Yondu has created a range of plant-based canapé options to mark the forthcoming Queen’s Jubilee. The recipes include ‘Coronation Chickpeas’, a vegan twist on the classic jubilee dish of ‘Coronation Chicken’, with the meatiness of the chicken replaced by the depth of umami. ‘Coronation Chickpeas’ can be served with lettuce or as a filling for sandwiches or jacket potatoes.

The Food Standards Agency (FSA) has unveiled a strategy aimed at improving food over the

next five years and showing its willingness to support governments to improve the health of the nation and to look after the planet. FSA Chair, Professor Susan Jebb, said: “Two decades on from its inception, the FSA has developed a strong reputation for its work to ensure food is safe. This must continue. Now is also the right time for the FSA to contribute to wider government efforts to tackle dietrelated disease and climate change, while keeping food affordable. Our five-year strategy signals our intention to work with partners and other stakeholders in the food system to achieve healthier and more sustainable food.”

Jaume Biarnes, director of Yondu Culinary Studio in New York City has also created a pea roll which takes the iconic mushy pea and gives it a minty upgrade encased in pastry - aimed at rivalling any sausage roll. Yondu is a 100% plant-based umami seasoning product created by Sempio Foods in Korea.

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NEWS

Japanese restaurant named

BEST IN ASIA Asia and The Best Restaurant in Japan. Other Japanese restaurants which made the list include Florilège, La Cime, Sazenka, Narisawa, and La Maison de la Nature Goh.

Japanese restaurant Den, led by chef-owner Zaiyu Hasegawa, has claimed the top spot in the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022.

The list, now in its 10th year, welcomed a record 16 new entries, with Japan counting 11 entries on the list, including four newcomers, while Thailand claims nine and Singapore has seven.

Den is focused on offering a playful, personal approach to kaiseki cuisine and is known for its creative presentations and surprising twists on traditional dishes. After entering Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2016 at number 37, Den first appeared on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list the following year, rising to number 11 in 2021. In claiming the top spot, Den earns the dual titles of The Best Restaurant in

Zaiyu Hasegawa

William Drew, director of content for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, said: “In its 10th year, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants proudly continues the tradition of rewarding culinary excellence and guiding diners to the most unique gastronomic experiences across the continent. This year, Den has been crowned number 1 in Asia in recognition of its unique blend of tradition, innovation, flavour, hospitality and playfulness. We are delighted to celebrate Zaiyu-san and the Den team, as well as showcasing all the restaurants on the 2022 list and the individual award winners, who inspire us with their creativity, resilience and skill.” Japanese chefs and restaurants were recognised in several individual award categories. Rising 14 places to number 13, Ode in Tokyo is this year’s winner of the Highest Climber Award. Villa Aida in Wakayama makes its debut on the list at No.14 to earn the Highest New Entry Award. Chef-owner Kanji Kobayashi sources seasonal ingredients from his family farm to present dishes of impeccable style with a light Italian accent.

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NEWS

Flower Burger launches special edition blue bun Italian

plant-based burger concept Flower Burger, which offers a range of vegan burgers in rainbow colours, has created a special edition called ‘Ocean’ Burger. The blue bun is created with spirulina, topped with sesame seeds, and comes with a mushroom patty covered in truffle mayo and guacamole, together with spiralised carrots and marinated red cabbage. Flower burger is also working with ‘Let It Trees’, a not-for-profit Italian organisation, to preserve up to 1 million square-metres of the Amazon rainforest with each burger sold. Flower Burger’s founder and managing director Matteo Toto said: “We are always looking to add fresh new and inspiring items to our wide range of vegan burgers. Apart from the burgers being easy on the eye, our hope with the brand is to offer a year-round season of summer to all our customers.” The Italian plant-based burger concept trades from 23 locations across France, Italy, the Netherlands, US, and more recently the UK, with branches in London and Brighton.

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NEWS

Italian is the UK’s most loved cuisine

Italian dishes are the most popular food choice in the

UK, with macaroni and cheese and lasagna among the top-rated choices.

food is the third most popular food choice in the UK, scoring 58.64, with burgers the firm favourite, achieving a popularity score of 60.38 out of 100.

This is according to a survey from Just Eat, which aimed to uncover the most loved cuisines across each region of the UK. With the highest average score of 60.37 out of a possible 100, Italian cuisine proved to be the most popular food choice in the UK.

With its popularity score of 58.5, Japanese food is the UK’s fourth favourite cuisine, with sushi the UK’s favourite (scoring 59.24). Mexican cuisine rounds off the top five most popular global cuisines with a score of 57.59. The burrito is the top Mexican food choice, scoring 60.47 out of 100.

The UK is also a nation of curry lovers, with Indian food the second most popular (scoring 59.14), with the best-loved dish being chicken tikka, scoring 63.01 out of 100. Fast

The survey also looked at the favourite cuisines of the UK’s specific countries and regions. In England, Italian cuisine again came out on top, and also scored highest

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overall in London, the North East, and Yorkshire and the Humber. Second favourite was fast food, followed by Indian cuisine. In Scotland Indian cuisine came out on top, followed by Chinese and then Italian. Wales favoured Indian the most, with Italian the second favourite cuisine, followed by Japanese. In Northern Ireland, the number one favourite is Chinese, followed by Japanese and then Italian. Just Eat carried out an analysis on an internal dataset of over 10 million restaurant reviews across the UK, with data collected between December 2021 and January 2022.

NEWS

Indian restaurant receives AA Rosette accolade Fine dining Indian restaurant The Mahal in Cheltenham has been awarded 2 AA Rosettes, which

recognises ‘excellent restaurants that aim for and achieve higher standards and better consistency. A greater precision is apparent in the cooking, and there will be obvious attention to the selection of quality ingredients.’ Located on Montpellier Drive, The Mahal offers contemporary fusion cuisine drawing inspiration from traditional dishes across India. Mahal owner, Aklasul Momin said: “We pride ourselves on the quality of the dishes and the memorable fine dining experience that we strive to provide to all of our guests, so being recognised with 2 AA Rosettes is an incredible achievement for us.” The Mahal opened in July 2020, and during the pandemic, it offered outside dining and adapted its takeaway service. The restaurant offers a seven-course tasting menu with both meat and vegan options, as well as an à la carte and set lunch menu.

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NEWS

Smaller businesses urged to adopt calorie labelling second biggest cause of cancer across the UK.

The government

is calling on small restaurants, takeaways and cafés to adopt calorie labelling, as part of its drive to improve the nation’s health and tackle obesity levels. New legislation applying to large businesses with more than 250 employees, including takeaways, restaurants and cafés came into force in April, requiring them to display calorie information of nonprepacked food and soft drinks. Calorie information will need to be displayed on menus, online menus, third party apps, food delivery platforms and food labels at the point a customer is making their food and drink choices. As well as listing the calories for each food item, menus and labels will also need to include daily recommended calorie needs. The legislation, which forms part of www.worldfoodlife.uk

the government’s strategy to tackle obesity, aims to ensure people can make more informed, healthier choices when it comes to eating food out or ordering takeaways. Displaying calorie information may also encourage businesses to provide lower calorie options for their customers.

It is estimated that overweight and obesity related conditions across the UK cost the NHS £6.1 billion each year. Almost two-thirds (63%) of adults in England are overweight or living with obesity and 40% of children leave primary school overweight or obese. Obesity is also the 10

The coronavirus pandemic has highlighted the impact that obesity can have on people’s health, and as part of its drive to level up the health of the nation, the government is also asking smaller businesses to adopt calorie labelling. Public Health Minister Maggie Throup said: “It is crucial that we all have access to the information we need to maintain a healthier weight, and this starts with knowing how calorific our food is. We are used to knowing this when we are shopping in the supermarket, but this isn’t the case when we eat out or get a takeaway. As part of our efforts to tackle disparities and level up the nation’s health, these measures are an important building block to making it as easy as possible for people to make healthier food choices.” There are some exemptions to the legislation including food that is only on a menu for 30 days of the year or less and all alcohol drinks above 1.2% ABV. The legislation will be enforced by local authorities with the Department of Health and Social Care supporting them with the additional costs of enforcing the policy. Local authorities are encouraged first to have conversations with those businesses who are not complying with the law. Local authorities can issue improvement notices. Any person who fails to comply with a notice could be guilty of an offence and could be fined £2,500.

number of falafel restaurants and the quality of the dish reported on each city around the globe, they created an index score to reveal the best world cities for falafel on a scale from zero to 10. The Netherlands’ capital has 12 falafel restaurants per 100,000 inhabitants, behind European cities such as Brussels with 33 venues (the highest of all places analysed). The Belgian capital ranked second best European city for falafel in the study, with a total score of 7.55/10.

The best

world cities for eating falafel have been revealed, with Amsterdam, Brussels and Athens claiming the top three spots. This is according to foodie experts at 10bis.co.il and its sister companies around the world, which uncovered the data as part of a global study. By evaluating factors such as the

In third is Athens (7.50 out of 10). The Greek capital also offers the tastiest falafel in Europe with a 4.60 out of 5 falafel review rating - just behind Haifa in Israel, which comes out on top in the worldwide study.

Sicilian-gastro bakery opens in London Signature dishes in its fresh pasta range include citrus pesto e gamberetti, lemon & orange, toasted almonds, extra virgin olive oil, capers pecorino and marinated prawns, while its antipasti range includes carpaccio di tonno - thin sliced tuna marinated with fresh herbs in lemon and extra virgin olive oil.

Restaurateur Giuseppe Tuttoilmondo, who founded Soffice, has more than 20 years’ experience in the hospitality industry, having previously worked at Norma London, D&D London and Zelman Meats.

Soffice, which offers a Sicilian-inspired dining

He said: ”As London’s food and beverage scene makes a remarkable recovery from the Covid-19 pandemic, it is a very exciting time to introduce a brand new dining concept. Soffice is a one-of-a-kind culinary adventure aiming to pioneer our ‘gastrobakery’ offer in London. We hope to serve our guests a range of unique and surprising dishes rooted in authenticity and sustainability, whilst enabling them to explore a new breed of Sicilian cuisine.”

experience with a modern and contemporary twist, has opened in Putney in south-west London. Its dishes and products feature fresh, sustainable and seasonal ingredients from local producers and suppliers from Sicily. Its all-day menu has Sicilian-inspired dishes including a selection of antipasti, pasta fresca, pizza a taglio, arancina, tavola calda (stuffed pan-brioche), and pasticceria - traditional Sicilian pastries. 11

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NEWS

Falafel tastes best in Amsterdam

Feature Toca: offers immersive dining experince

THE ART OF DINING From immersive spaces to sustainable food and meat-free meals, chefs and food entrepreneurs give their take on new dining habits

Toca Social

Ross Clarke

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IN 2022

launched its debut site at the O2 London in August 2021, describing itself as the world’s first interactive football and dining experience, built around fun and immersive footballbased games. Games have been designed for players of all ages and abilities and the dining experience is themed around a modern Americana menu. Michelin-star trained chef Ross Clarke, who previously worked at restaurants including Fat Duck Experimental Kitchen, The Hoxton, Dirty Bones, Rum Kitchen and Senor Ceviche, is Toca’s creative director of food and drink. He says the concept for the venue is in response to a trend for more immersive dining experiences. 12

“People live in highly sensory environments so the baseline for stimulation is much much higher,” he says. “By adding multisensory experiences to dining you are reaching this baseline but coming from multiple angles. The trick is to do this whilst getting people to see the quality of a product. It’s a fun challenge because it means taking something as simple as a burger then levelling it up enough that it catches someone’s attention but not drifting into style over substance.” With people having largely been confined to in-home dining over the last two years, Toca is also tapping into people’s cravings for fun, social experiences. “People have been sitting at home with the same environment around them at all times of the day,” says Clarke. “Now

we are all getting our freedom back, we are trying to feel or experience something new but with the people we miss. The benefit of something like Toca Social is you can come and experience the venue with small or large groups, and one place offers so much, from an Agave-focused bar to a ‘Dessert room’.” Clarke says the menu will change every couple of months to stay on trend and remain exciting.

“Creative thinking is at the core of our business and that is a massive part of the food and drink offering,” he says. “We want to build fans of the business that will return over and over again. To keep that fresh we have to stay creative in all elements of the experience.” Toca Social is expanding to other countries, having recently announced the rollout of a new venue in Dallas in the US in early 2023. It also has its sights set on opening in Birmingham in 2023.

A focus on health and wellness

Toca: located at The O2 in London

Victoria Howe is founder and director of Thrive, which previously provided beef recipe boxes and The Farm Kitchen, which has been supplying school meals since 2006. Thrive’s recipe boxes were created with health and planet in mind, and used local, seasonal vegetables, with the beef coming from 100% pasture-fed cows, with the meat naturally rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and Omega 3. “There is a growing realisation and understanding of the importance of eating foods that are good for you and good for the planet; and these food options are ever increasing,” says Howe. “This year we are seeing a growing interest in foods that are naturally good for your health. In recent years the training required to be a doctor for example focuses on nutrition much more than ever before. Looking at the ever-increasing health problems and chronic conditions that we are facing as a population, there will be a growing awareness of the impact diet can have on these, in helping to treat and prevent.”

Victoria Howe

will be highlighted more and more. “My strong feeling is that there is a growing understanding of how important food is and what a huge impact it can have on your overall health and wellbeing,” she says. “The role of using food as a way to naturally heal and promote good health will grow and people’s understanding will improve. Whether this be through eating a wide variety of plant-based foods, eating the highest quality grass fed/pasture reared meat you can afford, to the gut microbiome benefits of eating fermented foods.”

Howe also believes that the importance of buying British, seasonal food and understanding where your food comes from has increased following the changes required by Brexit, and the difference in the standards of imported food 13

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Meat-free meals Plant-based and vegan diets have enjoyed a steady boom in the last one to two years, with a survey for non-profit organisation Veganuary, released in December, showing one-third (34%) of UK adults are either interested in trying or plan to try a vegan/plant-based diet, while 8% of UK adults are already on a vegan/plant-based diet. The survey, carried out by YouGov also revealed that 35% of Brits say their perceptions of a plant-based/vegan diet have changed for the better in the past two years, and 36% think eating a vegan/plant-based diet is an ‘admirable’ thing to do. Dave Knibbs

Tofu is probably one of the most well-known plant-based substitutes for meat and is an Asian cuisine staple, but its reputation has often suffered from being labelled as ‘bland’ or ‘soggy’. And with so many other plant-based meat alternatives readily available from shops and supermarkets, how is tofu holding its own? David Knibbs is the founder of The Tofoo Co, which is on a mission to dispel myths and misconceptions around the product. It produces ‘Tofoo’ - made to a traditional Japanese recipe and using three ingredients. Knibbs and his wife Lydia Smith bought a small artisan tofu business in 2015, with the aim of making the ingredient accessible to all and have recently released The Tofoo Cookbook, published by Ebury Press, which features easy-to-follow recipes on prepping tofu and making marinades. Dishes include tofu shakshuka, tofish and chips and tofu poke bowls, alongside the more unusual sumac tofu with tahini sauce and panko tofu bao buns. “Although tofu has been around for thousands of years, it’s an ingredient that is seeing a huge resurgence,” says Knibbs. “We’re noticing an ever-increasing shift towards ethical consumption as people become more aware of the food choices they make, and consumers are now looking beyond meat for protein.” Knibbs adds that tofoo can be incorporated easily into a healthy, natural diet and offers versatility, as it can be used in many cuisines and pretty much any dish from salads and sandwiches to stir fries and curries. It has a subtle taste but as an ingredient it soaks up anything it is put with. For best results, says Knibbs, season, marinade or for added texture coat in cornflour and fry for a crisp golden crunch. “The meat-free marketplace has seen a huge growth over the last few years but it’s still growing and expanding as consumers adopt a more flexitarian lifestyle,” he says. The increase in brands and products into this category is great as penetration household levels of chilled meat-free are still relatively low compared to many FMCG categories, at just 30%. Plant-based eating is not a trend, it’s now a way of life and the adoption of a flexitarian approach to mealtimes is set to continue with more people incorporating meat-free days into their weekly schedule.”

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Feature

What’s next for

HOSPITALITY’S STAFFING

CRISIS

The hospitality industry has suffered from acute labour shortages for many months, since Covid-19 restrictions eased in 2021, with every facet of the industry affected - from restaurants, to takeaways, to hotels, pubs and cafés. While many in the sector hoped that the end of furlough might help ease the crisis, this has not been the case, wth many hospitality staff having left the UK for other countries or quit the sector altogether.

The problem has been made more acute with staff shortages coinciding with a rise in consumer demand, with establishments unable to cope and being forced to offer reduced menus or a change in hours of operation. A lack of skills and appropriate training is also having an impact. www.worldfoodlife.uk

Record level of vacancies Latest labour market figures released in March from the Office of National Statistics show jobs in the hospitality sector up 252,000 over the last 12 months; the figures also show UK unemployment at 4%, below prepandemic levels. While Kate Nicholls, CEO of UKHospitality, the trade group that represents the UK hospitality and tourism industry, says this is positive news for the industry and ‘clearly demonstrates what a vital role our businesses play in the UK’s economic recovery,’ she says the ONS figures also chart record levels of vacancies in the sector, reflecting just how challenging the labour market remains. Restaurants and takeaway businesses are facing an uphill struggle finding, motivating and retaining staff. Mark McCulloch, who previously held board level positions at a number of food businesses, launched Hospitality Rising last year, an industry response to the recruitment crisis, with the campaign backed by Hospitality and Tourism Skills Board. “We have a major staffing crisis in hospitality, “ says McCulloch. “There is now a finite amount of people available to work in the UK and only one in five of people in the UK would consider

working in hospitality, which is a poor statistic. Hospitality Rising is creating the biggest advertising campaign that the UK has ever seen to change the perception of working in hospitality for the better.” McCulloch is in the process of raising £5m for the campaign which is asking every hospitality business and supplier to invest £10+VAT per employee to help hit the £5m target. “We need everyone in hospitality to come together to stop the recruitment crisis,” he says.

Mark McCulloch Championing hospitality

McCulloch believes that changing perceptions is key to boosting the numbers of people wanting to work in hospitality, particularly to attract the under-30s. “I want hospitality to be one of the most admired career choices you could have,” he says. “We need to start building out those reasons, make hospitality a fun industry. We need to make the application, induction and learning and development processes great, and stop getting hung up on career paths. Hospitality can be a great job for people who want to come and go, so we need to be appreciative of people who stay for a short-term reason such as the Christmas season.”

Be more flexible

Sandra Kelly

Sandra Kelly, UK Director at People 1st International, which supports businesses to build, develop and retain skills staff, says that hospitality businesses are still struggling to fill vacancies across all levels, as people are opting to find work in safer and more secure industries.

closed their hospitality and catering departments as they are expensive to operate commercially. At school level, GCSE Food Preparation and Nutrition has declining student numbers year on year because it is an expensive qualification to deliver and has limited progression pathways.”

“Even before the pandemic, restaurants were struggling to recruit the right people,” she says. “The lack of robust career pathways from education to employment in hospitality is a big factor and many colleges have

Kelly believes that employers are working hard to attract new recruits and provide better quality job experience by increasingly becoming more responsible in their work practices, with many upskilling people

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to become mental health first aiders. They are also recognising that people are looking for more flexible work patterns and hours, and are often taking on more employees to achieve this flexibility. That being said, Kelly acknowledges there has been a significant number of closures during the last two years with many businesses operating at reduced hours or days to maximise the staffing levels they currently have available. “Many businesses are also operating with reduced or simplified food offerings to combat service levels and reduced kitchen capacity,” she says. “Those businesses who have looked after their staff during [periods of] furlough and maintained strong communication channels are being rewarded with loyalty and engagement.”

Pavement licence boost Ibrahim Dogus, chair of the British Takeaway Campaign, has underlined the seriousness of the situation facing restaurants and takeaways, saying that hospitality businesses are currently facing a real challenge in attracting and retaining the talented chefs that have given British takeaways the reputation they have today.

Kate Nicholls

“The pandemic disrupted the way that independent food businesses typically operate, leading to a lot of people leaving the sector to take up other jobs,” he says. “Things haven’t returned to normal just yet, and it’s clear that businesses are still struggling to fill roles.” UKHospitality, meanwhile, believes making pavement licences permanent will help the Covid-ravaged hospitality sector make a faster post-pandemic recovery. In response to a recent Department for Levelling Up, Housing and Communities call for views on pavement licences, UKHospitality said the temporary scheme – introduced last April and due to end this September – should become permanent, and would be ‘low-cost, low-admin’. Nicholls said: “Pavement licences have been a really positive success story, and in many cases have enabled businesses to remain open, when

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otherwise they would have had to close or restrict their opening hours, threatening thousands of jobs. “As well as businesses, outdoor spaces have also brought benefits to those town and city centres previously without al fresco drinking and dining opportunities, enabling them to begin the process of levelling up, and start to enjoy the sort of outdoor experiences available elsewhere. Not only that, but by helping local economies recover – and recover faster – this will undoubtedly contribute to the long-term levelling up of the regions. The fact that the scheme has been embraced enthusiastically by a number of local authorities is hugely encouraging in itself.” UKHospitality’s consultation response also recognises that making the scheme permanent may require changes in terms of cost and how it is administered, but calls for it to remain easy to use and cheap enough for businesses to continue using it. It has agreed with a proposed £350 cap on application fees, and suggests that any new fee system should encourage and allow local authorities to offer subsidised – or even free – pavement licences, which some councils have already done with great success for businesses and local areas.

Interview

Food for all

SEASONS

Chef, author and restaurateur Chantelle Nicholson unveils her new venture, Apricity and shares her love of all things seasonal

New Zealand

chef Chantelle Nicholson is known for Tredwells, her Covent Garden-based restaurant that championed seasonal produce. It closed in September last year, after seven years in operation. Nicholson hasn’t had much of a break however - first came the Alls Well Hackney pop-up, which she started during Tredwell’s last trading year and next up is the newly-opened Apricity, a 50-cover restaurant in Mayfair.

as well with the pop-up which further affirmed what was important to me. It presented me with a blank slate and an idea of how I actually want to run things. The opening was delayed by a few months due to the Omicron virus but in hindsight, it’s worked out for the best. Mentally, I really needed that space otherwise I would have approached burnout. I feel incredibly lucky to have the opportunity to start something fresh, rather than have the overhang of what was a bit of a different world pre-Covid.

What motivated you to start a restaurant at this current time? Starting a restaurant post-pandemic feels really good. In the last 18 months I’ve put my priorities in order, and for the first time in probably 17 years, I’ve been able to enjoy more than two weeks off in a row. Just having that time gave me the chance to think about running a new restaurant. We had a little practice run

What values are important with regards to Apricity? It’s very much about a 360-degree operation, looking at people, purpose and obviously profit to ensure it can sustain itself financially. Certain elements haven’t sat well with me in the past, so I’m making changes to ensure a better fit. This includes removing service charges and not being open seven days

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Chantelle Nicholson 21

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Interview

a week. We’re open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday. It’s also about the community and trying to find better ways of doing things. There’s definitely potential but there are risks attached too, in terms of removing charges and being open only five days when we have a small number of covers. We have around 50 in total, including ground floor seating, a chef’s table and outdoor space. I’m hoping that we’ll learn from this, whether we’ve done things right or not, which will pave the way for others in the industry. It’s also acknowledging this is a journey we are not going to get things right all the time, and we are going to change things as we go along, but rather than that being something to be fearful of or embarrassed by, it’s about trying to embrace that need to keep challenging and changing what we do. If we can find better ways of doing things then others can learn from it too. There’s always a fear with regards to whether the restaurant will be busy, whether you can sustain the business, but as we saw with Covid-19, sometimes it’s about holding hands up and saying that we can’t do the service today. Rather than compromising what you do or the health and mental wellbeing of the team, sometimes it’s better to just put your hands up. Covid brought out a bit more honesty. What inspired the name Apricity and what is the restaurant’s concept? It symbolises regeneration and rejuvenation, the idea of restoration and it seemed quite funky. And when I found this word and what it meant - the warmth of the sun in winter, it was the name I had been looking for. I had to check that it was available and not trademarked, and there were practical considerations such as checking that Instagram handles and URLs are available and it all seemed to fit. We’ve got about 20 staff and we are showcasing flavours as well as championing dishes and produce that people don’t necessarily love. In a sense it’s working backwards - we’re asking suppliers what they need help selling, how can we then use it and turn it into something. It’s about working on more of a day-by-day basis with a menu, so we are utilising everything we’ve got. Using seasonal produce also minimises waste, meaning you’ve got to be a bit more dynamic with the menu. I adore vegetables and plants so I want to make the most of those too. We’ll have a balanced menu that will change frequently. With the core team involved right from the outset, it’s a team approach. How are you approaching sustainability and food seasonality? We’re trying to work with as many local suppliers as possible, and as many British ones as possible, but www.worldfoodlife.uk

sourcing locally can be trickier in central London. We are working with a number of regenerative farms, sourcing seafood sustainably and it’s about people too, making sure they are paid well. We’re also looking at how companies deliver - do they use electric vehicles or bicycles, what about the packaging, is it reusable versus single use? We’re really trying to drill down to get the best possible produce and ingredients - food tastes so much better when it is in season. What’s your view on the staffing crisis facing the hospitality industry? There’s a lot of positivity out there, restaurants are full, they’re buzzing. But staffing is an issue. It’s not just in hospitality, it’s in many industries. In some ways it’s about the dearth of talent and the fact that people are drained, working in hospitality but no longer having the drive for it. We need to change the business model away from it being just about making money. It’s about everybody feeling rewarded and exploring opportunities. Many people start off in waiting positions and want to learn about cooking for example. Many people I have worked with have done different things across the board. You don’t necessarily know what you want to do at any one point in time so it’s important to have the chance to try if you want to learn something else. Feeling involved in decision making and being part of a core team is important too. Your staff should be involved in what the menu looks like and what’s on the drinks list, but it’s also about meeting suppliers and ensuring work/life balance. We have a staff shower for example so if people want to cycle or run to work they can. It’s about being inclusive. We’ll also be providing mental health training. And when people have been with us for a while, we’ll have paid volunteer days, working with some of the key charities we support. It’s about trying to be as much part of the community as possible. We don’t hear very much about restaurants and mental health training, because they are perceived as places with big turnovers of staff, with people coming and going. There’s little motivation for people to invest the money in training them, so this is a different approach.

to focus on and to put my energy into. It was the point in time when restrictions were coming thick and fast. What looked like an okay time for Tradewells was obliterated overnight, and that’s when I probably hit an all-time low, wondering what to tell those who relied on me and the business. So to be able to put my energy into something else was the best thing, it showed me you don’t need perfection. Restaurants often don’t open until every tiny detail has been analysed. It brought in an element of humanity and people were really enthusiastic about it. It was me going back to basics. It was a tiny kitchen, just me and one other chef actually cooking. It reminded me of why I got into this industry in the first place. Could you explain more about Apricity’s planned partnerships with charities? I want to focus on those charities that have a direct link to what we do, by either buying or supporting a business directly. I’m focusing on children and food. I think food education for children is incredibly important; when I was growing up, I had access to amazing produce and learnt about where food came from. Eating seasonally was also part and parcel of my childhood; if we can get kids excited about food, potentially we’ll get more of them coming into the industry. In New Zealand, we don’t have school dinners, you take your own lunch every day, so from a very young age, I’ve had to make my own, which meant that if I wanted something that was tasty, I had to put some time and effort into the dish. Food excites me and there is also something new to learn and seeing other people excited by it gives me a real sense of fulfilment.

What were the hardest lessons you learned over lockdown? There was a strong feeling of being helpless, particularly after we reopened Tredwells following the first lockdown. The Alls Well pop-up was a much-needed beacon of light, it was lifesaving in some ways because I needed something positive 23

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FEATURE

Find out what’s hot and what’s not in the world of food, drinking and dining

MAKING THEIR WAY TO YOUR TABLE TEA SEED OIL

Wunderman Thompson Intelligence, which produces the annual The Future 100, a report which covers trends and change across various sectors, has earmarked tea seed oil as one food/condiment to watch. It says the oil, which has been cultivated and used for centuries in Asia, is the latest cooking oil to hit Western shelves. “It is known as ‘the olive oil of the East’ thanks to its neutral flavour profile and high smoke point,” the report says. It is made from the seeds of Camellia oleifera, a flowering plant native to East Asia, and is packed with antioxidants, omega-3s, minerals, and vitamins E, A, & B. It can take eight years to produce and its flavour is similar to that of grapeseed oil.

COOKING WITH SPICES

Supermarket Waitrose’s Food and Drink Report for 2021-2022, released in October, says cooking with spice continues to grow in popularity, and that shoppers are finding that marinating or seasoning food is a simple and tasty way to prepare meals, whether they’re using traditional spices such as garam masala and cardamom or South East Asian flavours like gochujang. The report also suggested that more people are experimenting with cooking curry. At Waitrose Cookery School, one of the most popular in-person courses has been Chicken Ruby Murray With Naan, while its Curry Night online course was also in demand in the last year. www.worldfoodlife.uk

FORAGED COCKTAILS

Sustainable food has taken centre stage in recent months, with lockdowns around the world prompting people to shop locally more frequently and to question where their food comes from. Sustainable cocktail offerings are also gathering pace, with the Wunderman Thompson Intelligence report pointing out how locally foraged ingredients are being used to create ‘one-of-a-kind craft cocktails and offer consumers a greater range of sustainable drink options’. Think minimising waste, repurposing ingredients in unusual and inventive ways and perhaps coming up with a new flavour combination or taste sensation. Examples of foraged cocktails and spirits include spirits company Hangar 1, which has used damaged merlot and malbec grapes to make vodka.

MORE FROM MORINGA

VEGAN IS NO LONGER NICHE

Often called the “miracle tree,” moringa is traditionally used as an herbal remedy in India, Africa and beyond and was singled out in Whole Foods Market top 10 anticipated food trends for 2022 report. Whole Foods says Moringa leaves have plenty of nutrients, and ‘these fast-growing, drought-resistant trees have been used as a source of food to fight malnutrition in certain parts of the world. It can be found in powder form and added to make magic in smoothies, sauces and baked goods. It’s also showing up in unexpected products like frozen desserts, protein bars and packaged grain blends.’

You only have to look at the number of vegan eateries that have opened in recent months to know that being vegan isn’t just for one month in January - it’s a way of life for many now. And the trend is for more refined dishes and eye-catching presentation, with an increasing number of vegan restaurants offering options akin to fine dining. In London, the likes of the recently-opened Holy Carrot has dishes including ‘raw red pepper burrito’, ‘kohlrabi tartar’ and ‘crispy quinoa maki’ on its menu, while Michelin-starred chef Alexis Gauthier’s restaurant, Gauthier Soho, became veganonly last year. Three Michelin-starred Geranium in Copenhagen, Denmark has also pledged to go meatfree.

THE RISE OF REDEMPTIVE DIETS Trends and foresight consultancy The Future Laboratory has earmarked ‘redemptive diets’ as a future trend within the food and drink industries. It says: “At a time of global upheaval, brands and consumers are uniting to build future-fit, resilient food systems that support changing social values, protect precious resources and secure supply chains.” Redemptive diets call for new approaches and attitudes to food systems and the reasons why we eat – and how we should eat – with The Future Laboratory saying companies and consumers will ‘merge pro-people and planet practices with bold solutions, [taking] a more flexible and values-driven approach to food innovation and experience’.

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FEATURE

and have a distinct, bitter-sweet taste which gives a citrusy, herby aroma to dishes they are added to. Including curry leaves in your diet is a quick and easy way to add depth to the flavour of every-day dishes, but arguably even more impactful than their taste and flavour are curry leaves’ many medicinal, soothing, and anti-inflammatory qualities. ”Powdered curry leaves make a great seasoning or marinade and can easily be used to add flavour to a dish,” says Aradhana Bhandari, the founder of Ayurveda brand Kacchi London. “To create a simple and delicious marinade, add salt, lemon juice, garlic, red chilli powder and chaat masala to accompany your powdered curry leaves blend.” As well as experimenting with new recipes, making smaller adjustments to your existing favourite meals is a great way to begin incorporating curry leaves and gaining the benefits. Bhandari suggests that curry leaves can make a flavourful addition to houmous, a potato salad or boiled rice, adding extra nutrients.

CURRY LEAVES FOR CUISINE AND WELLNESS

Originally from South India and widely used in Asian cuisine, curry leaves have also been used in Ayurvedic medicine, an Indian holistic approach to healing that is over 3,000 years old. Despite their name, curry leaves aren’t used to make curry powder

PERUVIAN GOOSEBERRY

FROM ITALIAN TO ASIAN

Recipe box provider Hello Fresh says that in 2021, Italian recipes were the most popular options among its customer base. In the year prior, the split was spread across Italian, British, and Asian recipes. Hello Fresh says that while the classic, hearty goodness of Italian will likely remain among the nation’s top five cuisines in 2022, it’s expecting to see a resurgence in demand for fusion and Asian foods. It also predicts that some alternative, healthy swaps may become more common in 2022. Bulgur wheat, lentils and couscous secured a spot in Hello Fresh’s top ten roundup for 2021, and it says it expects these hearty, slow-release energy foods to gradually feature in its day-to-day dishes more often in 2022. www.worldfoodlife.uk

Also singled out in the Wunderman Thompson Intelligence report is Aguaymanto, also known as the Cape gooseberry or goldenberry, a berry native to the Andes with a bittersweet flavour. The fruit is gaining popularity for its health benefits, which include a high content of antioxidants, vitamins A and C, and minerals. Most recently, says the report, the berry has made its way onto the menu at the Freehand Hotel’s newest Latin American restaurant, Comodo, which opened in New York City in October 2021. 26

KELP GOES MAINSTREAM

MAKE TIME FOR KOJI

It’s also worth looking at trends in other countries for an indication of what might be the next big thing. A New York Times article entitled ‘How will Americans Eat in 2022?’ has singled out kelp. It says: “Kelp grows fast, has a stand-up nutritional profile and removes carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and nitrogen from the ocean. As a result, farmed kelp will move beyond dashi and the menus at some high-end restaurants and into everyday foods like pasta and salsa.” Another piece in National Geographic highlights how kelp has already been used by US start-up Akua to make burgers, pasta and dried jerky.

Trend forecasting company WGSN says Japan’s ‘national fungus’ koji will step into the spotlight in 2022. According to its report on Top Food and Drink Trends for 2022 and Beyond, this versatile though often hidden fermenting and flavouring ingredient has been favoured by global chefs for years. “It’s now playing a starring role, appearing in plant-based meats such as Prime Roots’ koji bacon in the US and historic Japanese whisky,” says WGSN. Miso paste, soya sauce and sake are made with koji mixed with grains or beans.

BRINGING BAIJIU TO THE FORE

Another WGSN trend to watch out for, this time in the drinks industry, is Chinese baijiu. WGSN says it is the world’s most-consumed spirit, outselling whisky, vodka, gin, rum and tequila combined, yet many consumers may never have heard of it. “This high-proof white spirit is distilled from grains like rice, millet and sorghum, and is poised to become a universally available spirit to delight drinkers across the globe,” it says. “Driving this trend are influencers of Chinese heritage excited to boost baijiu to the same international status as other regional spirits like tequila, as well as imbibers curious to experience a storied sip.”

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Entrepreneur Profile

Chris Joseph and Rowena Romulo

FAMILY AFFAIR

Recipes handed down through the generations are the key ingredient at Café Romulo and the newly-opened Kasa and Kin www.worldfoodlife.uk

Kasa and Kin

, which opened in November, is founder Rowena Romulo’s and her partner Chris Joseph’s second UK restaurant venture, following the opening of Romulo Café and Restaurant in 2016 in Kensington, West London. A Filipino-themed restaurant, bar and bakery concept, you’ll find breakfast dishes such as freshly-baked pandesal donuts filled with purple yam and coconut, lunchtime salads, sandwiches, hot dishes and create-your-own Imbento boxes and homemade cakes. The dinner/bar concept offers a pinoy robata grill offering BBQ sticks and a curated selection of artisanal cocktails. Romulo Café, (which already had three branches in Manila before opening in London, managed by Romulo’s sister) has been highlyrated since its inception. Kasa and Kin looks set to follow that trend, having received equally favourable reviews. Romulo’s love of food was instilled early in her childhood. Her grandfather, a diplomat who travelled extensively, exposed her to many different cuisines, while her grandmother was an accomplished cook who enjoyed eating out and entertaining guests on a regular basis with her own range of signature dishes. “This is where my love for food evolved - my restaurant in Kensington is dedicated to my grandparents,’ says Romulo. “My grandmother was a great cook - many of the dishes on offer are based on recipes handed down to and from her through the generations, they are very much based on our family heritage.” Romulo recalls how back home, her childhood was spent in the family’s ancestral home, with one kitchen and one dining room, meaning the family would gather all together at mealtimes. “My grandmother would cook for us and many of the

dishes we ate were quite grand, she did a lot of entertaining at home,” she says.

From finance to foodie

Prior to being a restaurateur, Romulo’s previous career was in finance, working as a banker for 32 years, for businesses including Citibank, although she was also involved in the food scene albeit from a more financial rather than food point of view. Her first restaurant project was opening a Thai restaurant in the Philippines in 1986, alongside her uncle and aunt, where she provided input on the budgets and helped manage the accounts. This was sold not long after, in 1988, when she was offered a finance position in Milan in Italy, where Romulo based herself for the next 20 years. She then moved to London and worked for other finance companies including JP Morgan for the next five years. Her sister meanwhile had started her own chain of cafés in the Philippines in 2009, called Romulo, with recipes inspired by their grandmother. “My sister and brother-in-law were very much into food but mostly from the catering and management side but when we found the old recipe book, it seemed the right thing to open a restaurant as a tribute to my

grandparents,” she says. In 2014, at a time of yet another financial crisis, Romulo decided to retire from banking, having been in the sector for nearly 30 years. “I happened to go to a dinner at The Savoy in aid of the victims of Typhoon Hagupit and it was then that I realised just how big the Filipino community is in London. I started talking to embassy officials who knew my sister had a restaurant in Manila and I realised there were not really any Filipino restaurants in London where you could entertain guests.” Romulo discussed the idea with her family and with her sister keen to expand the Romulo Café concept abroad, the search for a location was in full swing. Romulo says she has always wanted to open a restaurant in Soho (a dream she has achieved with Kasa and Kin) but in 2014, she settled on Kensington as it was more affordable and also because at that time, it was close to the Philippine Embassy. “We couldn’t open in Soho with

Dishes from Kasa and Kin

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Entrepreneur INTERVIEW Profile [Filipino] cuisine that was relatively unknown, it would be too much of a risk,” explains Romulo. “Kensington was a good location, close to the Embassy and there were also sentimental reasons. My maternal grandfather was the first ambassador to the Court of St James, my mother went to school in Kensington and Chelsea and it is near Earls Court, an area familiar to the Filipino community. It took a year to get Romulo Café and Restaurant off the ground, which opened its doors in 2016. Romulo describes the concept as ‘family heritage’, offering classic dishes and refined Filipino food. The decor is very much a family affair too, with walls featuring photographs of Romulo’s grandfather, and a private area in the basement decked out like a library. The kitchen is in the capable hands of executive chef, Jeremy Villanueva, who previously worked with Michel Roux Jr at Le Gavroche.

A labour of love

The concept for Kasa and Kin (‘kasa’ means home, while kin references the family), initially took shape back in January 2020. With Romulo Cafe having been going for nearly five years, Romulo says the strategy had always been to do more than one brand, whether in www.worldfoodlife.uk

the UK or in another country. The search for a suitable site began in February, around sites in Soho and Victoria, then the pandemic hit, although Romulo says it was good to have the time to step back and assess next steps. “We wanted it to be more playful, more modern, with contemporary food and flavours,” explains Romulo. “We also wanted to ensure the concept would be resilient and flexible as we had no idea what might happen in the future. With the three businesses in one, there are more options - the bakery and patisserie were definitely born out of lockdown - who didn’t bake during the pandemic? That’s how we survived, by creating a new product line and considering what people’s behaviours would be. Lunchtime we can cater for fast, casual service and we have the ‘grab and go’ concept for people or office workers short on time.” Alongside sandwiches using the Romulo family’s pandesal bread recipe, with fillings including ‘fili cheese steak,’ ‘classic ham and pineapple’ and ‘lemongrass chicken inasal’, Kasa and Kin offers a range of ‘Imbento’ boxes. These are ‘build your own’ lunches, where you can choose rice paper spring rolls, a choice of hot broth flavoured with chicken, beef or jackfruit, a rice, noodle or pinoy salad base, 30

finished with a main meal hot topping.

Meeting challenges head-on

Romulo says one of the major challenges she faced when opening the restaurant was introducing Filipino cuisine to a wider audience, beyond the relatively large Filipino community in the capital. “We hired a consultant to help us secure the necessary permissions and licences for operation - when we told him we were opening a Filipino restaurant, he said ‘what?’,” recalls Romulo. “Social media has helped a lot with regards to promoting the cuisine and Londoners are very adventurous and curious, always on the lookout for something new and trendy.” Romulo has the experience of operating an existing restaurant to help overcome any pitfalls, but there will always be teething problems associated with any new venture. Some of the staff hired for Kasa and Kin did not work out and Romulo acknowledges that staffing is an uphill struggle. “You really have to face this head on,” she says. “If it’s not working out you need to find someone else and move on. With Romulo Café, we did not start with the chef we have today, some general managers

did not fit the business and we continued searching until we found the right one.” Against the background of the pandemic, like other restaurateurs, Romulo has had to adapt to changing circumstances. “It’s been tough for everyone but the safety of everyone is a priority,” she says. “We didn’t know at the time how bad the lockdowns were going to be, we decided to close but we also have bills to pay. We had to innovate and develop new products like other restaurants, such as a bakery and home meal kits. This is how we survived and why we are still standing, alongside being able to furlough staff and apply for grants.” Home meal kits have been another learning curve. Romulo Café’s service has proved popular among Filipinos who live in other parts of the UK (as far as Scotland) and who cannot easily visit the restaurant, however, courier services have proved unreliable. “We have tried different couriers, and if consumers do not get their goods, the comeback is directed at us,” says Romulo. “We have next day delivery for perishable goods but on many occasions it hasn’t been delivered on time. Consumers complain but we make it clear that just like Amazon, we are not responsible. At the same time, you want your customers to be happy, by offering refunds or goods again free of charge. It’s the same with home meal kits these need special packaging, it has to have wool insulation and much of it is vacuum packed. Finding the right packaging was a challenge, as well as getting the couriers to deliver on time.” 31

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Entrepreneur Profile

Supply chain issues have also become tougher. Previously, many of the restaurant’s ingredients were imported from Asia and the Philippines but as Romulo explains, this has become more complex since Brexit. “It eventually caught up with us - we put something on the menu, and three months later we couldn’t get it,” she says. “We made the decision two years ago to source all our meat and seafood locally, we want to be sustainable and support local farmers. It also gives us a certain guarantee of getting a continuous flow. Of course, some products are still flown over but when there is a shortage, you have to think outside the box.”

Taking Filipino cuisine to the next level

As the world adjusts to life post-pandemic, Romulo is on a mission to continue raising the profile of Filipino cuisine, which she believes is underrepresented compared to other foods. “My passion for food continues to inspire me, alongside the fact that I want to give back to my country,” she says. “Food helps people connect to their culture and I can really feel this, having been a Filipino who has been away from home for more than 30 years. For people like me, who live abroad, it’s about offering that taste of home.” It’s also about offering a blend of east meets west - one word Romulo hates is ‘fusion’ and she doesn’t believe many other cuisines can say the same. With the opening of Kasa and Kin in Soho, she is hoping to bring this east-meets-west food to the masses.

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Feature

All the fun of the

FESTIVAL

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Marylebone Food Festival is taking place from 26 April to 1 May. WFL caught up with the organisers to get the lowdown on the event

Marylebone Food Festival is a collaboration between The Howard de Walden Estate and The Portman Estate. It aims to showcase Marylebone as a gastronomic destination by offering gourmet experiences while raising money for charity partner, The Food Chain. Annette Shiel, head of marketing & events for The Howard de Walden Estates explains what’s in-store for visitors. What will be this year’s highlights? This year’s festival features a lineup of in-restaurant events including masterclasses, supper clubs, tastings and special festival menus celebrating Marylebone’s lively and eclectic dining and drinking scene. Some highlights include live music and txakoli (dry white wine) at Lurra, wine tasting workshops at 28-50, Vinoteca and The Italians; a meet the chef masterclass at The Montagu Kitchen; supper clubs at Home Marylebone and The Royal Oak; special festival tasting menus from Nobu and Michelin-starred Trishna and a number of tasting tours. To kick off the festival, a launch dinner will take place on the opening night. The 120-guest

dinner will be held in a Grade I listed church and hosted by Jay Rayner with entertainment from his jazz quartet. Participating restaurants will include some neighbourhood favourites: Delamina, Cubitt House with renowned chef Ben Tish, Trishna, Lina Stores, Lurra, Fischers, La Fromagerie and The Portman Pub. How challenging was it to organise this year’s event, given the impact of the pandemic? The 2020 edition was sadly cancelled only a few weeks prior. We had all partners and events confirmed and ready to go and were just about to put our launch dinner tickets on sale. We don’t need to tell you what happened next, but we are very glad that the 35

festival will be returning for its third year, and we hope it will go from strength to strength. Organising the festival this year has certainly presented new challenges. Many of our restaurants have expressed issues with staffing and resources. Despite the challenging climate, we have confirmations from over 30 restaurants and food businesses who will be offering events and special activities. This highlights the resilience of our restaurants and appetite to still be involved with the wider festival activity. Due to the exclusivity of the events and activities, many of these are small group experiences, perfect for those who are nervous about returning to live events. www.worldfoodlife.uk

Feature www.worldfoodlife.uk

What wider role can the festival play in terms of helping to instil confidence in the restaurant industry and provide a boost for local businesses? The festival caters not only to our residents and office workers here in Marylebone but aims to attract new visitors to our food and drink establishments and drive repeat business. Both estates have invested in media partnerships to promote the festival after a challenging couple of years for our tenants and the Marylebone community. This year’s festival has seen a trend in businesses offering events with a sustainable theme, such as 108 Brasserie’s Little Marylebone Garden and The Ginger Pig’s’ sustainable BBQ workshop, which will also focus on the seasonality of meat. One of London’s best vegetarian restaurants, The Gate, will also be taking part with a vegan offering and Vinoteca is focusing on small sustainable producers for its Neapolitan wine flight served with their croquettes, using Londonbased cheese company Neal’s Yard. There is also an increase in partners offering low or no alcohol tastings with consumers craving alternatives to alcohol and menus with a focus on eating for wellbeing, with Home Marylebone offering a Wellbeing and Sustainability Supper Club and Boxcar Baker & Deli’s collaboration with Puresport too - a 5K run followed by drinks and nibbles. As well as the ticketed events, we will be inviting visitors to create their own Marylebone tasting menus with suggestions for self-guided tours being posted on our social media pages and website. An example includes The Marylebone Lane menu, leading customers on a journey starting with a cocktail at 108 Brasserie, 37

starter at Caldesi, main at Le Relais de Venise and dessert at The Ivy. Other highlights from the festival include a Txakoli festival at Lurra, a lunchtime safari organised by the BID Marble Arch London taking in a snack each from Vinoteca, The Italian Greyhound and The Gate, and cocktails and snacks menu at Nobu Bar. How vibrant is the food offering around Marylebone and how does the Festival bring this to life? Marylebone has an eclectic food offering with a mixture of independent and family-run restaurants and food shops, alongside some of the most renowned chefs and restaurateurs in London. The foodie scene in Marylebone captures every part of the day, whether it’s a great breakfast, mid-morning coffee, the perfect lunch spot with friends, to after work drinks with colleagues, or special occasion fine dining. A new late night live jazz bar has also just opened on Marylebone Lane. Some of the most well-renowned restaurants in Marylebone have been operating for decades which reflects the attractiveness and community spirit within the area. As well as several exciting new openings coming over the next few months, including Lina Stores, Granger & Co, Cavita, Marylebone has recently seen some high profile launches including the newly-Michelin starred Kol, Chourangi, Roketsu and Nobu. Throughout the festival these restaurants unite to showcase the very best of Marylebone and both locals and visitors get the opportunity to try a host of one off experiences, taster menus and special events showcasing Marylebone’s gastronomy. www.worldfoodlife.uk

Restaurnt Review

A TRIO of

TREATS

WFL checks out three restaurants in the capital offering their take on Mediterranean and Indian cuisine

Inside Pataka: contemporary cuisine

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A TASTE SENSATION

Sharing and tapas-style dining are a feature at Pataka Bar & Kitchen, which opened in London’s Shaftesbury Avenue in December last year, with a focus on authenticity and strong flavours. The menu features classic flavours rather than classic dishes, including ‘The Ultimate Bhel’, a mix of puffed rice, masala potatoes and chaat sauce, which was delicious. “Fusion is out of date now and people want dishes made from the best ingredients, reflecting taste and authenticity,” says Ashish Shiromani, operations and marketing manager. Chef Manmeet Bali previously worked at Indian restaurant Ooty in Marylebone and says Pataka’s concept is about taking Indian food, and elevating it and modernising it, giving you the flaviours you would find in India but presented as an altogether healthier proposition. He sums it up as ‘feasting with your eyes first and your stomachs after’. You won’t find many - or any heavy sauces here, with the emphasis on sharing bowls and plates that are big on flavour and which look stunning. We tried the quinoa tikki chaat, with butternut squash, chana masala and chaat spices, which was flavoursome and light, while the Gol Gappa - semolina puffs, were served with ‘crazy water’ in test tubes - a mix of coriander, green chilli and juice which was delicious and had a real kick to it. Other interesting dishes include Paneer Edamama Salan, which features edamame beans and padron peppers and the restaurant has its own take on ‘tacos’, called ‘Patakos’. These include Rechado Prawn with red chilies, goan vinegar, Chicken Tikka Masala with slow roasted tomato toss and Waterchestnut & Sweet Potato with kadhai masala, sirka onions. There is also a variation on the bread, which features nigella seed & garlic kulcha, truffle & pecorino kulcha, multi-seed naan and chili khasta paratha. Each and every dish has vibrant colours but just as eye-catching is the range of artwork on the walls. With a cocktail bar on the ground floor with a talented mixologist creating some delicious cocktails, Pataka is a great spot for drinks and light snacks and equally suited to a special occasion dinner. The dining area on the first floor is light and airy, with big windows overlooking the heart of London’s West End. 39

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Restaurnt Review

COPPER CHIMNEY

Copper Chimney was founded by JK Kaipur in 1972 in Bombay and describes its offering as ‘an ode to secret recipes and cooking techniques from across Undivided North India’, from Peshwar in the North West to India’s food capital, Delhi. There are a host of branches - fifteen in India, two in Kuwait and one in Dubai, while its latest branch, at Westfield London, opened in October 2019, just a few months before the UK’s first Covid-19 lockdown. The menu is extensive but not overwhelmingly so and you’ll get an idea of where many of the dishes hail from in their name, such as Delhi-style fried chicken, Amritsari shrimp and Chandni Chowk Chaat (Chandni Chowk is a long-standing market in Old Delhi) Copper Chimney’s interior was quite brightly lit the evening we dined, making it less atmospheric for an evening meal, but it’s perhaps not unsurprising given its location at a busy shopping centre. The restaurant has a contemporary, sleek design with plenty of greenery, and our table gave us a good view of the open kitchen, where you can see the chefs preparing the dishes. We opted for the okra kurkure to start - thinly sliced lady fingers, accompanied with a hot and tangy spice mix, a plentiful portion which hit the spot in terms of flavour and heat, alongside popadums. For the mains, we were spoilt for choice, opting for the pickled chicken masala, which had a real kick, the grilled burrah chop, jeera potatoes and a very flavoursome dal tadka, with wellcooked lentils that stil held firm. With plentiful portions, sadly we had little room for dessert but we were tempted by the gajar pistachio crumble, a slow-cooked carrot pudding with cardamom and sweetened milk, layered with pistachio and praline crumble. www.worldfoodlife.uk

Coppa Club: cosy interior

CAFÉ CULTURE

From Copper Chimney to a ‘coppa’ of a different kind, with a visit to Coppa Club in Putney, south-west London, which opened in November last year. The concept is very much café culture and it styles itself as a ‘private members’ club, with a clubhouse feel’ but without the fees you’d normally expect to pay. It is the second Coppa Club to open in London, with various branches elsewhere in the UK, with one having opened in April in Haslemere. The riverside location will no doubt make it an attractive option for the summer months and its terrace houses three glass igloos that you can dine within without comprorising on the views. Its offering is such that it caters for all-day dining and lounging, serving breakfast, brunch and dinners with plenty of space for after-work drinks. The contemporary design features a library snug area on one side, with sofas and wooden furnishings, with the dining area on the opposite side.

Above and below: Copper Chimney’s dishes

We chose dishes from the all-day menu, which offers food mainly inspired by Mediterranean cuisine with a bit of a nod to Asian cuisine. ‘Nibbles’ include mini chorizo, parmesan croquettes and zucchini fritti and ‘small plates & sharing’ feature mozzarella and oregano arancini, fried squid with a ponzu dip and buttermilk fried chicken. We shared the latter, which was cooked to perfection. For our mains we opted for the smoked haddock & salmon fish cake, servied with wilted spinach and watercress sauce. The presentation could have been more refined, as the dish appeared far too green, with the sauce overwhelming the fish cake, but the flavours more than made for this. Our second main, the Coppa burger, was cooked just right, with crisp, skinny fries. There’s also a range of more unusual pasta dishes, including truffle malfaldine, with fresh black truffle, nduja and pork pappardelle alongside a range of sourdough pizzas, such as margherita bufala and ‘Coppa Hot’, with spicy salami and nduja. 41

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REcipe

Turn up the HEAT With spring in the air and lockdown restrictions almost all but gone, check out these recipes that combine heat and health. Serves 2 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes

Gochujang Veggies with Crispy Tofu and Cashews This dish is packed with flavours and textures: crunchy vegetables, crispy tofu and toasted cashews in a creamy spiced sauce. Gochujang is a red chilli paste, a savoury, sweet and spicy fermented condiment popular in Korean cooking and a great ingredient for your store cupboard. Opt to serve this dish with rice or noodles if you like.

Ingredients          

5 spring onions, sliced 1 tbsp coconut oil, plus 1 tsp for the tofu 3 garlic cloves, sliced 1 tsp grated fresh ginger 1 carrot, cut into batons ½ courgette, sliced 1 red pepper, deseeded and sliced 380g firm tofu, drained well and cut into 2cm cubes 3 tsp cashews, toasted Handful of fresh coriander

For the sauce       

3 tsp gochujang paste 3 tbsp dark soy sauce or tamari 3 tbsp toasted sesame oil 1 tbsp rice vinegar 1 tbsp maple syrup Juice of 1 lime 200ml light coconut milk

Method 

Fry the spring onions in one tablespoon of coconut oil in a frying pan for four to five minutes until soft. Add the garlic and ginger and fry for a further minute. Add the vegetables and stir for four to five minutes until just tender. Turn off the heat while you fry the tofu and make the sauce.



Heat one teaspoon of coconut oil in a large frying pan or wok. Fry the tofu for one to two minutes on each side until brown and crispy, then transfer to a plate and keep warm.



To make the sauce, add all the ingredients to a jar and mix to combine.



Add the sauce to the pan with the veg, stir to combine and turn the heat to medium. Cook for one to two minutes to warm through.



To serve, top the vegetables with the crispy tofu, toasted cashews and coriander.

Extracted from Rainbow Bowls by Niki Webster (Pop Press, £12.99). Photography by Niki Webster.

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Teriyaki Chicken If you’re looking to increase your vegetable intake, look no further than this easy 15-minute chicken teriyaki. It’s high in protein and nutrients and includes rice, all for under 450 calories per portion. Serves 2 Cooking time: 10 minutes

Ingredients          



Method 



Set a medium pan over a medium heat, then add the olive oil, onion, garlic and ginger. Cook for two minutes until they begin to soften and brown. Add the chicken and cook for two minutes until sealed. Now add the teriyaki and soy sauces, pepper, baby corn and green beans, reduce the heat and cook for a further 7-8 minutes, stirring regularly. Heat the basmati rice as per the packet instructions, then add to a serving dish with the teriyaki chicken and serve.

Extracted from The Fitness Chef: Lose Weight Without Losing Your Mind by Graeme Tomlinson (Ebury Press, £16.99)

5ml of olive oil 20 ml light soy sauce 1 red onion, finely chopped ½ red pepper, chopped 3 garlic cloves, chopped 5 baby corn, chopped Small handful of green beans, chopped 1 tsp peeled and chopped fresh ginger 300g skinless chicken breast, chopped 250g basmati rice (recipe advises pre-cooked microwave) 60ml of teriyaki sauce

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Book review

0 KS C 0 KS for

WFL takes a look at some of the latest food-themed reads, available now and in the coming months

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Curry Everyday By Atul Kochhar

13 Foods That Shaped Our World How our hunger has changed the past, present and future

Bloomsbury Absolute Available now

By Alex Renton foreword by Sheila Dillon BBC Books Published 5th May 2022

Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar’s latest book features over 100 curry-themed vegetarian recipes inspired by different continents and countries. It includes recipes from Kochhar’s native India to the Far East, via Africa and the Middle East and beyond. There’s a range of quick and easy dishes to replicate at home, alongside more elaborate feasts. They include Mango and Tempeh curry, a recipe given to Kochhar by a Cambodian chef who worked for him at Tamarind in London’s Mayfair, when he was awarded his first Michelin star. It features baby tomatoes and coconut milk and a curry paste made from candlenuts, or macadamia nuts, bird’s eye chillies, shallots, lemongrass and green chilli. “It’s the curry paste that elevates this dish to a higher level, with richness from the candlenuts,” says Kochhar.

The book is inspired by BBC Radio 4’s series The Food Programme, and charts the stories of 13 key staples such as spice, oil, cocoa, bread and tomatoes, exploring their history and evolution. It’s packed full of fascinating facts, such as the toast sandwich recipe, taken from Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management, first published in 1861, which advises the following: ‘Place a very thin piece of cold toast between two slices of thin bread-and-butter in the form of a sandwich, adding a seasoning of salt and pepper’. The chapter on spice includes references to ‘lost spices’, those spices that used to feature in our ancestors’ recipe books but which are now gone or long forgotten. These include ‘Silphium of Cyrene’, a North African spice that is possibly the resin of a type of fennel, said to have been eaten by Emperor Nero, ‘Zeodary’, a paler variety of turmeric and ‘Costus’, a peppery herb from the mint family. Other chapters focus on the forgotten joys of lard, the secret to perfect chips and how our love of pepper led to piracy.

Another recipe, Swahili Paneer curry, features an East African curry powder, made from red chilli powder, cardamom seeds and ground cinnamon, turmeric and ginger, which can also be transformed into a vegan dish, by swapping the paneer with tofu. “Paneer isn’t an indigenous African ingredient, but there is a large Gujarati community in Kenya, which is why I’ve included this simple recipe here,” says Kochhar. “Typically, Gujarati cooking is flavoured with ginger and chilli powder and you get both in the East African curry powder.”

The book aims to get readers to look at food in a new light – as a weapon, an art form or a tool of revolution, but also as a bringer of happiness. Author Alex Renton has previously worked as an investigator, war correspondent and food policy writer, while Sheila Dillon, a writer and broadcaster who wrote for the New York food magazine Food Monitor, is presenter of The Food Programme. She also helped to set up the annual Food and Farming Awards, rewarding people who change the world through food.

A typical Indian street food/street café dal dish, ‘Dhaba Daal’, made from split yellow peas, ground turmeric and tomatoes, is one of Kochhar’s favourite dal recipes, which he recommends serving at home with parathas. The tarka (a technique where spices are fried in hot oil), features cumin seeds, black mustard seeds, dried red chilli, dried curry leaves, garlic and thin green chillies. 45

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Book review The Eco-Conscious Travel Guide

FitWaffle’s Baking It Easy

By Georgina Wilson-Powell

By Eloise Head

HarperCollins Available now

Eco-tourism is travelling with the aim to not cause direct or indirect damage to local communities, economies and environments and instead enhance or protect them. This book offers inspiration for those who want to travel in an ecoconscious way. There’s a range of no-fly European adventures to choose from, from coastal to cultural, mountainous to mouthwatering, with some themed around food, including ‘Chocolate, Cheese and Carb Delights’ and ‘Wine-fuelled Wanders’. As the introduction outlines, most routes are circular, so you can choose to start and end your adventure anywhere you like along the way. Some explore one country in depth, others straddle several borders and cultures. There are tips scattered throughout to help you extend your trip should you want to, or use the index at the back of the book to make up your own route. Most of the stops on each route are via train, but there are a couple of bus journeys thrown in too.

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Ebury Press Available now

Meliz’s Kitchen Simple Turkish-Cypriot comfort food and fresh family feasts By Meliz Berg

Eloise Head is a personal trainerturned-baker, and the person behind some of Tik Tok and Instagram’s most popular, viral recipes. Known online as Fitwaffle, she has amassed more than four million followers across her social media platforms. Fitwaffle started as a page documenting Eloise’s fitness foodie journey and now hosts indulgent recipe videos. From cakes, cookies and traybakes to mug cakes, sweet breakfasts and desserts, the book features simple, unfussy recipes that require only a few ingredients. The emphasis is on uncomplicated baking that doesn’t need fancy ingredients, and which is fun, relaxing and a little messy too. The book features fifty three-ingredient recipes, including viral hits such as Cookies and Cream Fudge and Chocolate Hazelnut Brownies, as well as four- and five-ingredient recipes from Speculoos Ice Cream to a Cinnamon Roll made in a mug. There is also a chapter on popular special occasion bakes.

Ebury Press Published 30th June 2022

Penned by self-taught cook and food content creator Meliz Berg, known as @MelizCooks, the book shares simple, vibrant meals that feature Turkish Cypriot flavours, with many recipes taken from Berg’s childhood, where she grew up watching her mum and aunt cook traditional Turkish-Cypriot food. She launched the blog, Meliz Cooks in 2013, adapting the methods and ingredients of traditional recipes to suit her own busy family kitchen, while ensuring the dishes retain authentic Cypriot flavours. The book covers: Kahvalti (breakfast), Meze & Salata (dishes and salads to share), Ocak & Kizartma (traditional stove-top dishes), Firin (hearty dishes from the oven), Yahni (easy onepots and slow-cooking), Kebab & Kofte (barbecue dishes and accompaniments), Ekmek & Hamur Isi (breads, doughs, and pastries) and Kek ve Tatlilar (crowd-pleasing sweets). Recipes include Halloumi & Black Olive Cake, One-pot Tomato & Halloumi Pasta, Chicken, Potato & Tomato Roast and Semolina Syrup Cake.

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and mutual agreements, Magic Bricks Bangladesh will offer its services for a fixed fee. Would you please send your request with details by email only as of the first point of contact? Then the Magic Bricks Bangladesh team will be happy to offer consultation meetings by phone, Zoom or in person. Our email for you to send your initial request: magicbricksbd@gmail.com

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A beer designed for food

Expertly brewed for a smooth and sophisticated taste

Cobra Premium is made from a complex recipe of seven ingredients, expertly brewed in a way that gives it fewer bubbles, producing a smooth and sophisticated taste. Available in 330ml and 660ml bottles, stock up while you can! Call your Cobra Sales Manager or Head Office on 0207 788 2880 to find out more.

New! Plastic-free packaging Buy now

Medium Kraft Box (Pack of 200) - £38 on the Just Eat Shop

This new plastic-free packaging, available exclusively with Just Eat, uses a seaweed coating developed by Notpla. Completely recyclable and with no plastic content, it literally disappears in days. • Exclusively for Just Eat Restaurant Partners