Grok Issue #1 2020 by Curtin Student Guild

FREE ISSUE #1 - 2020 WHY I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH INTERGENERATIONAL CONFLICT, A ND WHY YOU SHOULD TOO

contributors CHIEF EDITOR

HEAD OF DESIGN

Maria Cristina De Vicente Capua

Willow Springate

DEPUTY EDITOR Caroline Sabater

SUBEDITORS Aneeta Bejoy Kenith Png Paige Spence Paris Doick Rhonda Chapman Talya Hammond

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Adilah Ahmad Amelia Searson Brayden Zuin Caitlin Gava Eliza McPhail Ella Wakeman Kenith Png Nick Fimognari Rhonda Chapman Sarah Simpfendorfer Zahra Bihi

CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS Brendan Morrow Emily Lowry Franceska Alarkon Libby Dzialosz Nadifa Aziza Nina Dakin Oscar McKay Sally Henderson Sarah Thorpe Willow Springate Winnie Foss

COVER ARTIST Oscar McKay LOGO Chris Leopardi

PUBLISHED BY Curtin Student Guild

CONTACT grokonline.com.au grok@guild.curtin.edu.au facebook.com/grokmagazine

instagram.com/grokmagazine twitter.com/grokmagazine issuu.com/curtinguild

contents NOTE FROM THE EDITOR

NOTE FROM THE DEPUTY EDITOR

FROM THE PREZ

THE PROBLEM WITH INTERGENERATIONAL CONFLICT

PREDICTING THE 2020S: TEN YEARS OF FILM TRENDS

TOP TEN SUMMER BLOCKBUSTERS COMING OUT IN 2020

ECO-ANXIETY 24 GLOBALISATION'S EFFECT ON THE SPREAD OF DISEASES

COULD THE WAY TO HEALTH BE THROUGH YOUR GUT?

MAGGOTS: EAT. SLEEP. GRAVE-DISCREET

THE NEED TO EDUCATE ONLINE

WHAT IT REALLY MEANS TO HAVE GOOD STYLE

KEEP THE RECORD SPINNING

TRASHING FESTIVAL FASHION

A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR MARIA CRISTINA DE VICENTE CAPUA

Thank you for picking up — or clicking on — this year’s first edition of Grok, Curtin’s student-run and student-focused magazine. As always, it is a wonderful and unique platform where we can approach a multitude of issues, from the more serious to the light-hearted. When 2020 began, no one could have imagined that we would spend many months locked inside, battling a global health crisis. It’s a testament to the unpredictability of life — we can make as many plans as we like, but we’ll never really know what our future will hold. However, this pandemic has also shown us that people can come together and care for each other, even in the worst of situations. As an editorial team, we wanted to focus the year on looking forward: admiring how far we’ve come and imagining how far we can still go. As such, in this issue, our feature looks at intergenerational conflict and learning to put aside our differences, however many, to come together. Unwittingly, that is exactly what has been happening over the last few months as humanity has come together to face the COVID-19 virus.

We still look forward, knowing that if we come together, we can achieve much more than if we stand divided. We won’t know what our future will look like, but if this situation can teach us anything, it is that there is always hope. Stay safe!

Maria Cristina Chief Editor

FROM THE & DEPUTY EDITOR CAROLINE SABATER

I hope the articles inside speak to your soul, that you learn something new. This is what Grok is about, shining a light on some of the most important parts of life. From skipping down movie memory lane to the mysteries of gut health. One thing I know for sure is that this print edition will be a time capsule for the future. Capturing our experiences during a historically devastating time. It is only half a year into 2020 and I already feel like I have aged eons. Nevertheless, it is so wonderful that our first print edition of the decade is out! This edition is all about time, reminiscing about the past and looking towards the future. Perhaps a fitting theme for current situations. But I am so incredibly proud of what our team has accomplished in such a stressful and uncertain time. It is a testament to their work ethic and resilience. Thank you to our writers, sub-editors and designers.

So, go ahead, flip (or scroll) through the pages, be inspired and motivated. Soak up what this edition has to offer, which is to learn from our past and trust in a better tomorrow, even if it seems futile. Sincerely,

Caroline Sabater Deputy Editor

GROKONLINE.com.au

To understand profoundly, intuitively, or by empathy.

Grok Magazine is Curtin University’s studentrun media outlet. The writers, editors and designers of our five departments (Student Life; Politics and Economics; Music; Science; Art and Film) cover the good, the bad and the ugly—delivering a variety of content to keep you informed. We publish regularly through our website and produce a glossy print edition each semester, which you can pick up at Guild outlets and across campus. To make sure you don’t miss a thing, like us on Facebook, and follow us on Instagram. If you’re interested in contributing to Grok as a writer, editor or designer, or if you have a scoop you want us to cover, hit up the editors at grok@guild.curtin.edu.au

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from the prez Hello hello! Welcome to the first issue of Grok for 2020. For over 50 years, Grok has been a huge part of the student experience here at Curtin. It’s seen countless Guild elections, student politics scandals, university controversies, and broader historic events and movements, documenting and reflecting the students’ perspectives throughout. From covering the relevant news of the day, publishing insightful think-pieces, and exhibiting some of Curtin’s best artistic talent, Grok has a vibrant and rich history that I am proud to see continue in 2020.

2020 so far has been, for lack of a better word, traumatic. Life as we know it has been turned on its head and at this point it feels like nothing is off the table. We came into this year facing devastating bushfires, we are still balls-deep in the fight against climate change and now we’re battling a historic global pandemic. It seems all the gods and deities known to man have come together to collectively fuck us over, and boy have they ripped us a new one. Amidst the COVID-19 crisis, it has never been more important to contemplate and analyse what is going on around us. How are we taking on the bigger issues? (e.g. Will our government commit to a more equitable and robust model of higher education after this crisis?) And how are these immense events impacting us on an individual level? (e.g. Why can’t I manage to sit down and finish one single assignment god damn it). Something that I’m excited to see this issue focus on is unity and the aspects of the human experience that connect us, which is extremely important right now.

As the student union at Curtin, part of the Guild’s job is to draw students’ attention to the issues that threaten our access to high-quality, fair and accessible education. There will be no shortage of these when we emerge from this pandemic, and we will be working alongside Grok to ensure students are informed. Protecting the student experience at Curtin is another of our responsibilities, and this year the Guild has taken the bull by the horns and secured a number of fantastic wins for students. Through our advocacy efforts we saw the pushing back of the census date, the implementation of the opt-in ungraded pass system, and the reduction of late assessment penalties for students. We were also part of a national movement of students that successfully called on the government to include Austudy, ABSTUDY, and Youth Allowance in its financial support package. As we continue our lives and studies through our computer screens, the Guild is finding new ways to engage with students. Whether it be through our education support campaigns, our online events, or our new discord channel, I encourage you to get involved. Whatever the future holds for us, remember that the Guild will always be an agent for student support and for positive change. I’m looking forward to moving and shaking some more with you all. With love,

Hana Arai

51st Guild President

YOU Y H W AND D TOO SHOUL

IT’S NO SECRET that young people often

find it difficult to understand the views of some members of the older generations, and vice versa. Discrepancies between the values of our nation’s youth (who’ve grown up in an age of rapid technological advancement, widespread access to the internet, and ever changing social norms) and those of the older generations (who have also lived through many periods of tremendous social change) are only to be expected. However, when these disagreements between the young and old begin to disrupt our peaceful and productive coexistence, we need to take a step back, evaluate why we so often struggle to get along and look at what we can do to rekindle a positive relationship between the younger and the older generations.

Words // Ella Wakeman Design // Oscar McKay GROKONLINE.com.au

I N T E R G E N E R AT I O N A L C O N F L I C T

WHAT’S CAUSING ALL THIS TENSION? It’s undeniable that we live in a rapidly changing world. It’s not a stretch, then, to think that maybe that in itself is a major contributor to the increase in intergenerational conflict we seem to be witnessing. Numerous contemporary studies support the idea that the pace at which the world is evolving is a major factor in widening generational gaps. Such studies also suggest that other contributing factors include the increasing life expectancy and the burden it will place on aged care and healthcare systems, as well as the unpredictable nature of our current social and ecological climate.

Even without the evidence of sociological studies, I’m sure it isn’t difficult for most people to think of a list of issues that cause divisions between the generations. We often hear of intergenerational conflict arising over issues such as climate change, immigration, the housing and job markets, the rights of LGBTQIA+ people, traditional family structures, the welfare system and political allegiances — among other things. Despite these divisions, however, we should still be aware that we are not as different from one another as we may think. For example, although millennials and baby boomers have grown up in very different eras and therefore have developed different values, it is important to acknowledge that the nature of our experiences are not necessarily all that different

'The youth of today are merely replicating the behaviours of their parents and grandparents from when they were young'

As sociologist and Monash University Associate Professor Steven Roberts puts it, the youth of today are merely replicating the behaviours of their parents and grandparents from when they were young. Members of Generation Z may be the first to be storming cities with mass protests demanding reduced fossil fuel emissions, but Baby Boomers were the youth of the 1960s who took to the streets in widespread anti-war and anticonscription demonstrations. Young people fought vigorously to have same-sex marriage legalised in Australia in 2017, but the now elderly population were the ones who, 60 odd years ago, worked to promote ideas of sexual liberation and freedom in the post-war world.

Now, of course, these examples don’t reflect every person from each respective age group. Even within generations, there is also conflict. This is where intersectionality comes into play, which is another important factor to make note of when understanding why intergenerational conflict occurs. When only the experiences of privileged people are acknowledged and those of disadvantaged people are forgotten, we demonstrate more of a tendency to despise those whose circumstances we do not understand. For example, the common perception of today’s youth as lazy and self-entitled, comes from an assumption that all young people in this country are in a fortunate enough position that they can afford to ‘be lazy’ and it won’t affect their lifestyle. Perceptions of older people work the same way, too. For this reason, we can recognise that the cause of intergenerational conflict is not just the age difference, but the ever-changing nature of the world, with new variations on issues such as sexism, racism and classism constantly emerging.

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I N T E R G E N E R AT I O N A L C O N F L I C T

W H Y D O WE N E E D TO R E L I E VE THIS CONFL ICT? You might question why we should suddenly start caring about the problem of intergenerational conflict. If it is such a detrimental issue, then why has it not widely been spoken about until now? Well, it seems that interpersonal complications based on age have not been quite as divisive in the past as they are now. While age has always been an immovable fact of life, what causes division specifically is variation in ideologies and values — and we just so happen to be living in a society where opposing ideologies are the norm.

'When too much time is spent arguing, no social progression can be made'

That’s why we need to start addressing this issue now. We are inching towards a world where complete disregard for the values and opinions of people who grew up in a different time from us is standard behaviour, and that’s not going to help any of us, because a society divided against itself will struggle to make any advancements. When too much time is spent arguing, no social progression can be made.

W H AT CA N W E DO AB OUT IT? Too often, issues are talked about endlessly but never actually resolved because no action is ever taken. This seems to be the way that the ongoing disputes between different generations plays out. That does not have to be the way forward. We can work towards breaking the cycle of intergenerational conflict and moving towards a future in which ageism does not permeate so many areas of society as it currently does. Having more open, honest and genuine interactions with people in our communities is one way to help foster better relationships and greater understanding between people. We often surround ourselves only with people who are close to our age and who are from similar walks of life. Making a conscious effort to step out of this comfort zone and engage with people who have different backstories will help all of us to become more empathetic people.

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'We can work towards breaking the cycle of intergenerational conflict and moving towards a future in which ageism does not permeate so many areas of society as it currently does.'

Building connections with people who are either much younger or older than ourselves is another fantastic exercise in becoming more aware and considerate of others. Instead of worrying about all the things you may not have in common with others, focus on the interests, qualities and values that you share. Seek out spaces where you will get to meet people of varying ages, such as social or interest-based clubs, community events, or through working or volunteering. Putting your assumptions to the side when you first engage with new people is a vital factor in being able to connect with others. Head into new conversations with an open and eager mind.

The differences in the ways we live our lives are often one of the sources of hostility between generations. However, we can turn this hostility around and use our diversity to our advantage instead: our varying stories can be told through our unique voices.

Young people have a far greater presence and influence on social media than older people do. This means that they can use this resource to spread messages about the importance of eliminating ageism targeted towards all groups and on all levels. Older people, on the other hand, are more likely to have greater influence in the workplace and, as our population is aged, also makes up a wider proportion of people who can vote. They are the social group who can use their political influence to turn more of the publicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s focus towards issues concerning youths.

Of course, all these methods of inciting change are not going to happen overnight. They all require immense cooperation, compassion, and the letting go of pride and selfishness. Dismantling the problem of intergenerational conflict sounds like hefty task â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and it is, but achieving it starts with individual people deciding to stand up and make a change. And, that is a challenge that anyone, of any age, can tackle.

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ART & FILM

Words // Eliza McPhail Design // Emily Lowry

When Bong Joon Ho’s Parasite (2019) became the first foreign-language film in history to win Best Picture at the 2020 Academy Awards, producer Kwak Sin Ae expressed the collective surprise of the film’s incredulous cast and crew:

There is considerable interest in the effect that such changes may have on the future of film, of what it might mean for international cinema, inclusion and the types of stories mainstream movies will finally have the chance to tell.

'We never imagined this to ever happen, we are so happy.'

Of course, the scope of influence over cinema reaches much farther than The Academy alone. The blockbuster is more likely to be birthed from trends that are periodically recycled and reinvented. Plot and character archetypes — methods through which movies evoke laughter or fear — are inspired by cultural movements, globally felt events and sociopolitical tensions. Genres shift in and out of favour for audiences seeking different forms of escape or catharsis, which in turn are dependent on the nature of their reality. Though hardly an exact science, this makes it possible to predict what the next few years of movies might look like from any fixed point.

The words spoken by Kwak Sin Ae are indicative of an industry that isn’t generally surprising. It’s no secret that The Academy operates according to patterns of prejudice: favouring films that are familiar and embody a genre or message deemed important by years of reiteration. It isn’t often that an Oscar win is unexpected, much less unprecedented — that is, until recently. The past few years have seen some departures from tradition within both The Academy and the industry in general. Best Picture wins such as Parasite (2019), The Shape of Water (2017) and Moonlight (2016), as well as the 2018 Best Original Screenplay win for Get Out (2017) in 2018, indicate that The Academy are opening up to different kinds of creators, perspectives and genres.

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BASED ON THE PREVIOUS DECADE, RECENT ACADEMY AWARD WINS AND A CONSIDERATION OF PRECEDING PATTERNS, WHAT CAN AUDIENCES EXPECT FROM THE 2020S?

Four months in, and we’ve already seen a hell of a twist in the cinema scene — and everywhere else. The current pandemic has halted productions, postponed release dates and sent films directly to streaming sites in order to attract some of the lost profits. Even in its eventual aftermath, COVID-19 could affect box office numbers and Academy prospects and undoubtedly will have an ongoing impact through the next decade of artistic interpretations.

Movies about natural disasters, zombie apocalypses, narratives exploring entrapment and isolation might see an upswing — allegories for COVID-19 that will keep English teachers occupied for years to come. Even before the shock of a global pandemic, the nature of horror cinema was changing. Audiences of the 2010s were obsessed with hauntings and possessions, fearing above all the invasion of their homes and bodies. Though the sub-genre isn’t necessarily dead, paranormal and found-footage horror peaked at a time of increased surveillance and pervasive technology. In the 2020s, films that operate on a fear of intruders might be more likely to take the form of slashers, which have seen something of a revival in recent years. Our appetite for true crime and eighties nostalgia has contributed to the production of movies that reimagine the genre, as well as call-backs to beloved classics such as Candyman (2020) and Halloween Kills (2020).

On the whole, however, the kind of horror that is permeating our screens is less discernible than that offered by demons, dolls, spirits or serial killers. Post-apocalyptic survival films such as A Quiet Place Part 2 (2020) speak to the widespread and ever-intensifying fear of climate change. Meanwhile movies such as The Void (2017), Bird Box (2018) and Underwater (2020) focus on cosmic horror and existential dread. Robert and Max Egger’s, The Lighthouse (2019) is likewise Lovecraftian, and is one of a slew of A24 films that tells its story through abstract cinematography and steadily building tension. The entertainment company’s particular breed of horror tends to dwell in visceral discomfort and psychological fear, setting a potential trend for the decade to come. In short, the simultaneous financial and critical success of horror films suggests a major shift in the industry. These films could pave the way for more big budget, unconventional scary movies, which weren’t traditionally considered capable of cultural substance. Similarly, the social thriller seems likely to have a renaissance in the new era, with hits like Get Out (2017), Parasite (2019) and Joker (2019) exploring the horrors of humanity in inventive and genre-bending ways.

While the standard or psychological thriller is generally well-respected, those delving specifically into the nuances of oppression are less common. This is partially due to the exclusion of artists that can adequately express the social tensions, micro-aggressions and paranoia entwined with the minority experience. As Hollywood becomes more diverse, however, horror and thriller cinema seems increasingly inclined to turn away from external threats and towards those that reside within our collective capacity as human beings. While these grim depictions might help us grapple with global trauma, light-hearted escapism will also have its role to play in the coming decade. Romantic comedies, for example, could experience a come-back over the next ten years, with Netflix noting a surge in their popularity amongst teens and adults alike.

This led to a plethora of musical biopics and creative takes on the jukebox musical such as Pitch Perfect (2012) and Yesterday (2019). However, after several animated instant classics and the success of films like La La Land (2016), it seems likely that the 2020s could see more of the genre in its traditional form. In the face of what threatens to be a difficult decade, this could be a welcome addition to an already promising era of film. Though the world feels oddly stagnant, stuck in a relentless global moment, artistic expression is always in constant movement. We stand on the precipice of an exciting new time in popular culture, and the future of film is bright.

The movie musical is also expected to see some success, with several stage-to-film adaptations and remakes already in the works. Over the previous decade, filmmakers have skirted around the surrealist aspects of the genre by filling their films exclusively with diegetic musical numbers.

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19 19

Words // Brayden Zuin Design // Franceska Alarkon

TO P 10 SU MME R B LOCKB USTERS CO MIN G O U T IN 20 20 With the advent of 2020 we’ve ventured into a whole new decade of movies on the big screen. Within the previous one, cinema grew into an expensive and hugely competitive market. Over the decade, 46 films made over a billion dollars at the box office, 22 which were made within the last four years. So, it’s easy to say that cinema has recently reached new heights. From what we see listed below, it doesn’t look like that’s going to be slowing down any time soon. In fact, you can probably expect the film industry to be bigger and better than ever in the coming decade. So I’ve outlined what I think the top ten upcoming blockbusters will be.

BLACK WIDOW

TENET

For some time now, it’s been evident that Marvel can do no wrong with their cinematic universe, and a deep dive into one of the original and long standing characters since her debut in Iron Man 2 a decade ago, feels well overdue. Set after the events of Captain America: Civil War but before the devastating impacts of Avengers: Infinity War, this film follows Natasha Romanoff on a quest that shines a light on her troubled origins. I’m most looking forward to seeing the fighting style and stunt scenes as Marvel has hired the same stunt crew from the John Wick films, so expect high intensity and well-choreographed fight sequences.

How can a movie be so secretive yet so highly anticipated?! Not much is known about Christopher Nolan’s latest mind warp, the man behind Inception and The Dark Knight Trilogy. It’s being described as a timetravel, international, espionage-action epic. That description alone has me sold on the film. Tenet features John David Washington (Ballers) for his first big-budget Hollywood film at the forefront, with Robert Pattinson (Twilight) and Michael Cain (The Dark Knight) in supporting roles. From Nolan’s most notable credits, we know we’ll need our thinking caps on for this film but rest assured, he will deliver a huge hit.

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ART & FILM

WONDER WOMAN 1984

SPIRAL: FROM THE BOOK OF SAW I wasn’t the only one caught off guard when scrolling through my newsfeed to find out that comedic superstar Chris Rock was writing and starring in a new SAW movie. You would never in a million years guess that this was where his career path would take him but boy, am I interested to see what sadistic horror lies in the mind of Chris Rock. Don’t expect co-star Samuel L. Jackson to make it to the end credits either, tick-tock motherf**ker.

MORBIUS After the success of Venom, Sony’s Marvel Universe is only going to get stronger with the addition of Morbius. Jared Leto plays Dr. Michael Morbius, a biochemist with a rare blood disease who seeks to find a cure until his obsession pushes him to extreme lengths resulting in him becoming a vampire. Michael Keaton appears at the end of the trailer seemingly reprising his villainous role from Spider-Man: Homecoming as the Vulture, so we can expect a few Spider-Man related Easter eggs along the way.

Hang on, I’m pretty sure I remember Wonder Woman’s love interest, Steve Trevor (Chris Pine), sacrificing himself at the end of the first film, so can someone please explain why he appears alongside Amazonian warrior princess, Diana Prince (Gal Gadot), in the trailer to the sequel?! I wouldn’t get too attached though — expect a few plot twists on that front. The film sees Wonder Woman venturing into a new era (spoiler alert, it’s 1984) with throwback set designs of classic malls and retro costume pieces. The trailers have shown director Patty Jenkins using vibrant colours and a poppy soundtrack to depict her iteration of the 80’s.

FREE GUY It can do a lot for a film when you have the most lovable man in Hollywood as your lead. Ryan Reynolds stars as an NPC (non-playing character) in a brutal open-world video game. Imagine a PG film version of Grand Theft Auto, mix in a few current trends and memes, a Fortnite dance or two and with a dash of Reynolds’ charm, you get Free Guy.

GHOSTBUSTERS: AFTERLIFE I didn’t expect another Ghostbusters movie so soon after the colossal failure of 2016, but this time around feels different and I have high hopes for Jason Reitman’s version. Posed as a sequel, Finn Wolfhard (Stranger Things) and Paul Rudd (Ant-Man) will attempt to bring relevance back to this series as a single mum and her two kids move into their deceased grandfather’s farm house and find a few spooky things that connect back to the original film.

TOP GUN: MAVERICK It’s been 34 years since we last saw Tom Cruise as the iconic navy pilot, Maverick. We know all too well by now that Cruise loves to go above and beyond by performing his own stunts — as we’ve seen throughout the Mission Impossible films. His love of aviation began after the original film and pushed him to get his pilot’s license, meaning we’ll get to see him actually flying a plane in the sequel.

JUNGLE CRUISE We couldn’t go through the blockbuster season without seeing Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson pop up somewhere. Based upon the popular Disneyland ride (yes, you heard that right) Dwayne Johnson and Emily Blunt travel on a dangerous Amazon adventure looking for a treasure that can’t end up in the wrong hands. It feels like Disney is trying to subtly bring back what Pirates of the Caribbean used to be, and I’m not arguing.

SOUL It’s that time of year again when Disney & Pixar decide to play on our heart strings. Expect this film to warm your heart only to break it, so by the time you leave the theatre, you’ll have a new perspective of life and death. That’s what Soul will accomplish — and with Pixar’s track record, I have no doubt this will inevitably become a classic.

The 2020 slated films start the new decade off with a bang, but with the huge amount of content on streaming services, the competition will be tough. This won’t stop the film industry though, as studios will be working tirelessly to provide the best content for viewers made exclusively to be experienced in cinemas. Bring on the next decade of film!

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POLITICS & ECONOMICS

ECO-ANXIETY: THE MENTAL HEALTH BURDEN OF THE CLIMATE CRISIS

Words // Caitlin Gava Design // Winnie Foss Almost every young person has their anxieties about the future. Will I have a successful career and earn enough money? Will I meet The One and start a family? Will I be happy and healthy? These anxieties are normal and were felt by our parents and grandparents. However, there is one anxiety our parents and grandparents didn't feel, one that has become the new normal and plagues us to the point that it has gotten its own name: eco-anxiety.

Eco-anxiety was first defined by the American Psychological Association in 2017 as 'a chronic fear of environmental doom'. Also known as climate anxiety, eco-anxiety is the fear of the future of our planet brought about by climate change. It isn't something to be overlooked and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s affecting the mental health of young people all over the world.

CLIMATE PSYCHOLOGY AND SKOLSTREJK FÖR KLIMATET On August 20, 2018 a 15-year-old schoolgirl sat on the street outside the Swedish parliament building to strike for climate change. She was Greta Thunberg, one of today’s worldleading climate activists. Thunberg began suffering eco-anxiety at just 11 years-old. She became depressed, stopped talking and stopped eating — she lost about 10 kilos of weight in two months. Even as young as 8, she knew the seriousness of climate change and couldn't understand why people weren't doing anything about it. Eco-anxiety has become so widespread, there are now dedicated climate psychologists. Dr Patrick Kennedy-Williams is a clinical psychologist from Oxford with a specific interest in eco-anxiety. He first became interested in the area when climate scientists and researchers working in Oxford started to approach him for help. ‘These were people who were essentially facing a barrage of negative information and downward trends in their work... and the more they engaged with the issue, the more they realised what needed to be done — and the more they felt it was bigger than their capacity to enact meaningful change’, Dr KennedyWilliams said. ‘The consequences of this can be dire — anxiety, burnout and a sort of professional paralysis.’ It isn’t just experts in the field who are worried about climate change, and Dr Kennedy-Williams realised this when he began to research ecoanxiety. Eventually, he turned his focus to young people, seeing that children were anxious about the climate from an alarmingly young age.

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POLITICS & ECONOMICS

D R K E N N E D Y- W I L L I A M S A N D O T H E R C L I M AT E P SYC H O LO G I S T S D I S C OV E R E D T H E R E M E DY FO R C L I M AT E A N X I E T Y I S T H E S A M E A S T H AT F O R CL IMATE CH A N G E : ACT I O N . On March 15, 2019 a global School Strike for Climate protest was held in approximately 137 countries. It’s estimated over 2 million strikers demanded their governments take action on climate change. The young people walking out of schools and universities knew the consequences of political inaction on climate change would be disastrous and directly impact their future. From September 20 to 27, 2019 it’s estimated over 7 million strikers from approximately 183 countries participated in the Week for Future strikes. In Australia alone, it’s estimated over 400,000 strikers protested across more than 100 cities and towns. Protests continue to be organised regularly as the movement grows with more young people affected by ecoanxiety. Dr Kennedy-Williams and other climate psychologists discovered the remedy for climate anxiety is the same as that for climate change: action. Before she first sat on that street outside the Swedish parliament, with nothing more than a sign and some flyers, Thunberg was, in her own words, ‘that girl in the back who doesn’t say anything’. She didn’t think she could make a difference because she was ‘too small’. Now she’s the leader of a global youth climate movement that is seeing other seemingly ‘small’ people take big actions.

DENIAL IS NOT A POLICY The Morrison government has been widely criticised by climate experts for their inaction on climate change. It’s clear our prime minister cares far more about the economy than the fate of our planet, continually pulling focus back to the former when forced to address the issue. Australia is one of the biggest per capita greenhouse gas emitters in the world. The country isn’t set to meet the target it agreed upon as part of the Paris Agreement, which aims to keep the rise in global temperature to 1.5°C. We were ranked worst of 57 countries on climate change policy in the 2020 Climate Change Performance Index.

It’s completely understandable that so many young Australians have felt compelled to participate in School Strike for Climate protests. It’s their future they are fighting for. They don’t want to grow old on a dying planet where heatwaves and catastrophic bushfires are normal, coastal towns are flooded and millions of species have become extinct. If mental health really is a ‘priority’ for the Morrison government, they should make some attempt to improve their abysmal response to climate change. Currently, their lack of action is having a real effect on the eco-anxiety felt by young Australians. A survey conducted by ReachOut and Student Edge of over 1,500 students aged 14–23 found 80 per cent were anxious about climate change and over 77 per cent didn't believe their concerns about climate change were being suitably addressed. While the key to tackling eco-anxiety and

It’s also important to talk to someone. Talk to trusted family and friends about how you're feeling. And when you need to take a break from it all, do. Don’t forget all the positive things that have been done to mitigate climate change either. The future of our planet shouldn’t be something young people have to worry about. Our government owes it to Australians to take a responsible approach to the climate crisis, which is already having devastating impacts on our country. Until they do, it is us who have to suffer through eco-anxiety. What we can do is manage it through actions – that take care of us, but also the planet.

TAKING CARE OF YOURSELF WHILE TAKING CARE OF THE PLANET climate change is taking action, it’s important to remember that this responsibility doesn’t fall solely on your shoulders. You don’t need to start an entire climate movement or even participate in protests, instead do what you can: use reusable coffee cups, containers for lunch and take your own bags when you go shopping; use public transport, carpool, cycle or walk; keep showers short; and eat less meat.

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GLOBALISATION’S EFFECT ON THE SPREAD OF DISEASES C onf u s i on a nd c ha os a m i d COVI D -1 9 p a nd e m i c . Words // Zahra Bihi Design // Nadifa Aziza

On December 31, 2019, the World Health Organisation reported the first known cases of COVID-19 in Wuhan, a city in Eastern China of over 11 million inhabitants. A month later, China placed the Hubei province, made up of fifteen cities including Wuhan, under lockdown. The goal of these lockdowns was to quarantine the centre of the outbreak. COVID-19 is a coronavirus that spreads from person to person through droplets when someone coughs or sneezes. Like the flu, it causes respiratory diseases ranging in symptoms from life-threatening one’s such as pneumonia to a simple common cold. In China’s Hubei province, all public transport was suspended, and movement in and out of these cities was placed under control. This would limit the amount of person-to-person contact, ensuring the disease did not spread further.

COV ID-19 CASES AROUND THE GLOBE

As of Ap r i l 2 02 0

WHAT IS GLOBALISATIONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ROLE IN SPREADING DISEASE? Globalisation is an economic concept that is simply defined as the process by which people and goods move easily across borders. Globalisation has resulted in rapid economic growth by facilitating the sharing of new ideas and concepts, lowering the cost of goods and services, and enabling easy access to different cultures. Advancements in transportation and communication technology have accelerated the process, increasing interconnectedness and interdependence of people and countries. Infectious diseases like COVID-19 take advantage of the connectivity it provides, as globalisation comes with an increase in air travel and movement of people. The increase in the mobility of people allows for such viruses to thrive. As a result, countries have gone into lockdown and closed their borders to slow down the rate of infection.

In Australia, the federal government announced a stage 2 shutdown that started from midnight on March 26. The shutdown closed and restricted all non-essential services. Medical centres, pharmacies and shopping centres remained open â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and since we are a nation with priorities, bottle shops also remained open. Amid the confusion and chaos surrounding COVID-19 an increasing number of people have resorted to panic buying. It is important to note that not all the information on the internet or social media is always accurate. Keeping this in mind, some phenomena are more difficult to understand. The most recent of these being 'the toilet paper crisis'. How the buying of toilet paper became an extreme sport, we may never understand.

POLITICS & ECONOMICS

HAS SOMETHING LIKE THIS HAPPENED BEFORE? Globalisation is not a new concept, nor is its role in the spread of infectious diseases. Over the years, we have seen an increase in the frequency of outbreaks. Notable outbreaks in recent history include HIV, Ebola, SARS, MERS and the present COVID-19 pandemic. In the 14th century the Black Death occurred and was one of the most devastating pandemics in human history, with an estimated death toll of between 75 to 200 million people. The plague was transmitted by infected rats that lived on merchant ships that travelled along trade routes through Asia, Europe and Africa.

It was caused by bubonic plague thought to have originated in Asia. The plague is caused by the bacteria Yersinia pestis, which is transmitted by fleas. Infected fleas can then spread the infection to other animals. Humans contracted the disease when they came into direct contact with infected persons, animals or fleas. The antibiotics used to treat the plague were not discovered at the time and so the impact of the disease was severe. Today, advances in health and medicine have allowed us to become more equipped in understanding how diseases spread, and the best way to treat and contain them. Even so, the potential harm is unpredictable since viruses and bacteria continuously evolve. Scientists have said this could slow down efforts to develop a vaccine.

In response to the crisis, the Chinese government effectively bought up the entire supply of masks produced in the China. In addition, they also imported a large volume of masks and respirators from abroad.

WHAT DOES COVID-19 MEAN FOR THE GLOBAL ECONOMY? As globalisation has increased, countries have become more interdependent, resulting in the specialisation and division of labour between countries. Global supply chains are highly efficient, but they are not without flaws. When we face pandemics like COVID-19, the vulnerabilities of such systems are revealed. China is the world’s top trader. According to Statista, in 2018 China accounted for 12.8 per cent of global merchandise exports and 4.6 per cent of global service exports. Before the COVID-19 outbreak, more than half of the world’s medical masks were manufactured in China. When the virus began to spread, Chinese manufacturers increased production to meet the demand.

These events have negatively affected the world’s supply of masks and respirators. Countries who do not have adequate stockpiles of these items are the most impacted. As the virus spread outside of China, European countries such as Germany, Russia and Turkey prohibited the export of medical masks and respirators. Restrictive trade measures to masks and respirators have been impacting health systems around the world.

GLOBAL PROBLEMS REQUIRE GLOBAL RESPONSES. Infectious diseases are a global problem for which international cooperation and coordination are greatly needed. We cannot predict when and where a new highly infectious disease will emerge. What we must do is be prepared for it when it does, and help each other however we can — in this case, by staying home.

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SCIENCE

An alteration or imbalance in the usual composition and diversity of gut microbiota is known as dysbiosis and has been associated with various cardiovascular and gastrointestinal diseases, obesity and diabetes.

MIC ROBIOTA VS MIC ROBIOME ? Your body is inhabited by trillions of bacteria, viruses, fungi and protozoa, known as microbes or microorganisms. When referring to bacteria at specific sites or habitats, such as on the human body, they are called microbiota. Microbiota also contain their own genes (genes are made up of DNA: think of them as instructions to make particular proteins), and so the combination of microbiota and their genes are referred to as the microbiome. The gut microbiome specifically is an exciting and rapidly growing area of investigation worldwide, with the latest research showing connections to human health and disease.

THE STORY S O FA R Different sites on the human body contain microorganisms specific to that site. For example, microorganisms on the skin are going to be different to the ones in the gut, because environment provides optimum conditions for different microorganisms to thrive in. The microorganisms populating your body are dominated by bacteria—from here on in, when mentioning microbiota, we are specifically referring to bacteria. Microbiota co-exist with their host (you) over a lifetime. Our microbiomes rapidly develop from birth, but remain relatively stable during adulthood. You are first exposed to microbes when passing through your mother’s birth canal — although recent evidence suggest babies may come into contact with some microbes while in the womb. As you grow, your gut microbiome begins to diversify even more. This is a positive change: higher microbiome diversity is considered beneficial for health. However, there are also harmful bacteria that can overcome the body’s defences and wreak havoc under certain circumstances.

Words // Adilah Ahmad

FACTO R S A F F ECTIN G TH E M IC R O B IO M E Although healthy people are thought to share a core microbiome make-up and functionality, it is important to note that there are variations in the gut microbiome of different individuals — caused by many factors including host genetics, lifestyle and environment. These variations make the characterisation of a ‘healthy’ microbiome a difficult task. In 2016, a study looking at genetic determinants of the gut microbiome of more than 1000 twins found that it is partially shaped by our genetics. The results revealed new examples of heritable bacterial species such as those related to diet preferences, metabolism and immune system functioning. Diet is also an important factor in the crucial makeup of your microbiome. The food you consume influences your gut microbiota composition, which in turn modulates your health through digestion and absorption of nutrients. Bacteria biotransform dietary substances and produce metabolites (produced during bodily chemical processes like digestion), which can travel all around the body and have major effects somewhere else. For this reason, meat-eaters and vegetarians will have different microbiota compositions. A healthy diet compared to a diet rich in fats and carbohydrates, will also result in key differences in microbiome composition. Changing your diet provides one of the simplest ways to modify your microbiome to your benefit. Researchers have also studied geographical differences in microbiome development by looking at people living in communities in Malawi, Venezuela and America, and they found marked differences. Meaning, differences in socio-economic status, geography, culture and diet are factors.

Design // Sally Henderson

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SCIENCE

F UNCT I O NS OF THE G UT M IC ROBIOTA Can you name one thing gut bacteria do? They actually play a more vital role than you might realise. These include: • • • • • • •

Breaking down of complex molecules in vegetables and meat. Absorbing energy from the food we eat Producing vitamins our body can’t make itself Communicating with immune cells and affecting the body’s response to infection. Influencing the growth of ‘good’ bacteria and resisting or restricting the growth of ‘bad’ bacteria Influencing behaviour — researchers have shown links between the gut microbiome and various psychological disorders Producing metabolites such as short chain fatty acids, bile acids and trimethylamine-N-oxide, which influence many aspects of our body’s functioning.

MICROBIOME AND HEALTH The gut microbiome has been implicated in many diseases. Let’s delve into some of the current research to see where we’re at.

CA R DIOVAS CULAR DI SE ASE

OBES ITY

Cardiovascular disease (CVD) is the leading cause of death worldwide. In Australia, it kills one person every twelve minutes. Many studies have looked at the changes in the gut microbiome in various cardiovascular diseases and have found a reduction in diversity of the gut microbiota, alteration in the levels of specific bacterial phyla and an abundance of harmful bacteria. The flow-on effects of this include increased inflammation, arterial stiffness, increased blood pressure and plaque formation, which contribute to increased risk of heart attack and stroke.

A study using identical twins, one obese and the other healthy, showed they had completely different microbiomes. When the microbiome of the obese twin was transferred to mice they gained more weight than those that received the healthy twin’s microbiome — despite both eating the same diet. Demonstrating that microbiome dysbiosis may play a role in obesity.

T Y PE 2 DIA BETES Type 2 diabetes is characterised by imbalanced blood glucose levels. Several studies have reported gut microbiome dysbiosis as a factor in the disease. This dysbiosis may reshape the gut environment and affect other signalling pathways that influence insulin resistance in type 2 diabetes.

GASTR O INTESTINA L D IS E AS ES Gut microbiota also play a role in maintaining the gut barrier, which stops harmful bacteria and toxins from escaping and travelling through the body. In intestinal diseases there is a dysbiosis — microbes produce gas and other chemicals which contribute to symptoms like bloating, cramps and abdominal pain. ‘Good’ bacteria, usually found in yoghurts and probiotics, can help to seal gaps between intestinal cells.

CAN YOU IMPROVE YOUR GUT MICROBIOME? At this stage it is highly unlikely, though there are a few things we can do to improve it: • • •

•

Be adventurous with your food. This will help to increase the diversity of bacterial species present. Eat lots of veggies, fruits and legumes. They are fibre rich, which can stimulate growth of ‘good’ bacteria. Eat fermented foods. Foods rich in beneficial bacteria keep nasty bacteria at bay, reduce dysbiosis and help in producing helpful metabolites. Take prebiotics and probiotics. Prebiotics promote the growth of beneficial bacteria. Probiotics are live microorganisms, usually bacteria, that have specific health benefits. Include foods rich in polyphenols, such as dark chocolate, red wine, almonds, green tea, onions and blueberries. Polyphenols are compounds that have great health benefits

Interactions between our gut microbiome and health are complex. Although research surrounding this area is booming, there is still plenty we don’t know. In the meantime, you can marvel in the fact that trillions of tiny little bacterial cells that call you their home are paying board by keeping you healthy. Our seemingly silent housemates, in fact, do a lot for us!

SSCCIIEEN NCCEE

Maggots: Eat. Sleep. Grave-discreet. Since the 18th century, maggots have been a thriving trade for wound cleansing. Today, the maggot market is still wriggling with life —in fact, that may just be where international healthcare titan BUPA’s money is being squandered. Jokes aside, last year’s royal commission into aged care facilities was sparked when maggots were found in the festering wounds of residents on several occasions. Rather than misconstrued medical practices, it shows criminal neglect. Thankfully, that’s exactly the innovative industry for which maggots have been repurposed: solving crime.

Words // Nick Fimognari Design // Sarah Thorpe

With the help of modern science, maggots can now provide more insight into a crime scene than simply how long a victim has (literally) been left to rot for. Like these cases of neglect, many other forensic investigations utilise the same primary knowledge of maggots — the charting of their very sensitive, yet predictable, life cycle. After a mother fly lays her eggs, her babies become active maggots within a day or two. Following a period of gorging, these maggots undergo pupation over several weeks, where they develop a hardened shell around themselves and begin metamorphosis into their final form. (For all you Pokémon lovers, we’re talking developing that THICC outer shell that Metapod loooves to Harden.) Around eight days post-pupation, our final evolution takes place and an adult fly (Butterfree) emerges… Or does it?

In a recent interview, with forensic entomologist Dr Paola Magni, I got the lowdown on the dark but noble research she conducts: how flies at every stage of the life cycle can help solve clues about homicide cases — especially when the cycle doesn’t go according to plan. So, let’s break down a case with our fly friends to figure out the all-important ‘where’, ‘who’, ‘how’ and ‘why’ of murder through the three principles of maggot science.

WHERE

Principle 1. Wherever there’s a dead body, flies will follow. When a dead body is found, we first want to establish if this is the primary scene of the crime.

Species of maggot in the corpse can confirm this. Just as the ethnicity of different individuals varies geographically, so do the fly species in a given area. If we find adult flies from a metropolitan area on a body found near Uluru, we can be sure this isn’t where it all went down. However, ‘where’ is also about the location of the maggots on our victim. Maggots like warm, wet, dark and rotting places, so finding flies in an unexpected place indicates what happened. For example, fly larvae extracted from the hands of a relatively intact body indicate defence wounds. Maggots emerging from holes in the abdomen might suggest gunshot or stabbing. This helps build our victim's story, but it's still an incomplete picture.

SCIENCE

HOW Principle 2. You are what you eat, and so are the maggots that eat you. A homicide doesn’t always play out just by knife, gun or brute force, so a toxicological screening is valuable tool, especially where obvious clues are absent. Evidence of what a victim has ingested is normally found within their bodily fluids and can provide a timeline of what has happened in their recent past. When carrion-eating flies feed on a deceased’s flesh, whatever that person has ingested (voluntarily or not) becomes part of the flies and, in turn, their next generation. Insects with exoskeletons, like flies, have a protein making up this hard, outer shell called “chitin”. The way that individual strands of chitin are tightly bonded together makes a perfect 'time capsule' for signature gunpowder residue, toxins and drug metabolites. For two examples of how this works, let's consider ketamine and automobile antifreeze (car coolant).

Whilst ketamine has medical application as a painkiller and sedative, in high doses it can induce unconsciousness and lead to death. Although car coolant has no medical application, like ketamine it deals death — even in small doses. But we can be pretty sure our offender didn’t accidentally slip it into a person instead of their car. So, what do these substances do to flies? To no surprise, both mostly lead to death for flies too. However, by observing the progeny that survive feeding on toxic flesh, Paola made some landmark discoveries in 2018 about both toxins. Ketamine is detectable in ‘drugged’ maggots in proportion to the level of drug dosing (recreational vs lethal). So we can determine from maggots found on a corpse that ketamine was used in their death, right down to the dosage given and therefore, possible intent. For the maggots feeding on antifreeze-spiked flesh, most of their eggs don’t hatch, but the unbreached eggs will be littered all over the body. For the ones that survive a milder poisoning, they take approximately a week longer to hatch than normal and are 40% smaller than healthy larvae. As you ponder that question, let’s move on to the all-important ‘who’.

'Flies—the gifts that keep on giving.' WHO Principle 3: Got loyalty, got royalty, beside your DNA. Let’s start off with a cheery fact: more than half of violent crimes are committed by an offender who already knows the victim.

In any crimes where the bodily fluids or tissues of an assailant are left on the deceased, their DNA is ingested and captured too. Doing a conventional DNA test on a resident maggot from a homicide victim shows the maggot’s DNA sequence, the victim’s, and potentially the attacker’s too. Flies — the gifts that keep on giving. Now you know how flies can contribute to the where, who and how, I’ll leave it to the experts to deduce the ‘why’. So put down that bug spray — what’s eating you this summer may just be the perfect clue for solving a future crime.

If by some horrible chance you end up a suspected homicide victim, a list of all the people who know you and any that could potentially want you dead are amongst the first to be screened before scientific analysis is conducted. But for a conclusive lead, DNA testing is our go-to for placing someone at the crime. Whilst DNA alone isn’t enough to secure a conviction, it is the gold standard identifying test in forensics. However, like blood and urine samples, DNA has a shelf life in a degrading body, making it impossible to genetically profile the assailant in a deteriorated corpse. In addition to being drug fiends, maggots will gorge themselves on whatever they can, including the DNA inside your cells. This DNA isn’t lost either — it gets locked away inside the maggot as the ultimate ‘time capsule’.

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STUDENT LIFE

H OW COVI D -1 9 I NFECTE D E D UCATO R S W I TH T HE NE E D TO G O O NL I NE Words // Rhonda Chapman D esign // Brendan Morrow

This coronavirus outbreak has suddenly forced colleges, universities and other training providers to cancel their in-person classes and workshops due to fears of it making its way into classrooms. Colleges and universities with the means to stream live have switched to online-only classes and lectures. Smaller services have had to find ways to quickly turn their in-person workshops into webinars and online courses to avoid letting their students down and avoid a loss of income.

It’s interesting to watch how educators respond in this state of emergency. But it’s also fascinating how the priorities that had been predicted to dominate the education industry in the next few years are happening sooner than anticipated. According to Research and Markets forecasts, the market for online learning (or 'e-learning') is expected to reach $238 billion by 2024. However, what we’ve seen is COVID-19 kicking the transformation from in-person to online into gear sooner and making the transition a top priority for educators right now in 2020. A huge win for students.

Still, the billion-dollar question remains: did it really have to take a life-threatening virus to make tertiary education more accessible? One would have thought that it would have been normal practice today to automatically offer online-only learning options to people regardless of where they’re located and without them ever leaving their homes. We already know there’s a growing demand for online courses, we know there are advanced online teaching technologies already available to make this possible, and we’ve already seen some courses being made available online either partially or in full.

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STUDENT LIFE

It’s fair to ask, then: 'What had they been waiting for to switch to online-only teaching?' Since they were already offering for some, surely they were way past 'How can we?' Right? So, why weren’t they? Why did they wait until COVID-19? It’s not clear. According to social media discussions dated before COVID-19, many students would have found it beneficial to study online fully as they find it hard to attend in-person classes due to work and family commitments. Some say they have no choice and must travel to campus. Some say they get to do some electives online. Then there are people who struggle in crowded environments.

Distance learning is not new. We’ve seen early adopters offer correspondence courses from before online learning became a thing, and then we saw different teaching tools appear such as webinars, videos, podcasts, emailbased and massive open online courses, quickly followed by an influx of experts teaching through tools like Facebook Lives and Google Hangouts. All these tools have made it super easy and affordable to meet people where they are and have eliminated the need and cost of travelling to venues. Although the format had to change, the goals have remained the same: to share knowledge with people, to allow them to earn their qualifications, and to ensure that educators and institutions continued to generate their income. Online learning is therefore an incredibly effective tool for the education system wherever possible. Of course, there are some subjects that cannot be taught online fully, but they are the exception. The technology to deliver education online has been there all along before COVID-19 and had been a reality of the modern world for some time. Colleges, universities and other educators know this. At least that’s one positive thing about COVID-19. It has forced the world to wake up and embrace all things online learning and benefit from them sooner.

'How do educators deliver a high-quality online learning experience that gives students the opportunity to engage better with them and other students virtually, seek support, ask questions, share ideas and go over the content in real time?'

This pandemic also offers a chance for students to give feedback to lecturers and tutors so faculties can see how much their students and university can benefit from more courses being taught online. The hope now is to also see more students who had been sceptical about having to leave their hometowns finally get a chance to study online. It would also be great to see colleges and universities consider what else they could teach online and how to improve the way educators teach online. How do educators deliver a high-quality online learning experience that gives students the opportunity to engage better with them and other students virtually, seek support, ask questions, share ideas and go over the content in real time? Otherwise, online can be boring, lonely and therefore more stressful than inperson classes because it’s up to you whether you ‘get’ the content and to keep up. How do educators ensure that their students don’t feel a lack of connection with them and the other online students in the same course? GRAB YOUR FREE TOOLS AND MINI COURSES Due to the COVID-19 outbreak, various brands are offering their online courses, software and other membership-based digital tools for free for a limited time. Access usually costs a fair bit, so if you spot any free or discounted offers, grab them.

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STUDENT LIFE

WHAT IT REALLY MEANS TO HAVE GOOD STYLE DRESSING SUSTAINABLY AND STYLISHLY ON THE CHEAP IN A WORLD OF FAST FASHION

Words // Sarah Simpfendorfer Design // Libby Dzialosz I’m sure you’ve heard — we’re in the middle of a climate crisis. I’m also sure you’ve heard that the fashion industry is one of the worst offenders when it comes to pollution. According to data from the United Nations Environment Programme, the fashion industry is responsible for 10 per cent of all global carbon emissions.

If the industry was a country, it would be the world’s third largest carbon emitter — just behind China and the USA, according to 2018 data from the European Commission. It approximately triples the carbon emissions of all international shipping and aviation emissions combined.

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Sus tai nable clothes sho ul d n’t d amag e our envi ronment, o r the l ive s o f the workers that make the m.

So what makes fashion so bad for the environment? Part of the issue is the whole industry model. Fashion is driven by a cycle. Designers introduce a new style, which then turns into a trend as we see it proliferate among influential people. Clothing driven by the trend enters the mainstream marketplace, where availability fuels consumption, and finally, designers introduce new styles that we just have to have — leaving the older styles passé. This unsustainable cycle repeats itself as we continue to purchase and then discard clothes that we quickly lose interest in, compounding the industry’s impact on the environment. In addition to this, some commonly used materials and practices in every part of the supply chain can contribute to environmental destruction. For example, synthetic fibres, such as polyester and nylon, are made from fossil fuels. Even natural fibres, if not grown sustainably, can harm the planet through overuse of water and pesticide run-off that poisons water sources. Beyond the raw materials, the extensive shipping between the different stages of production results in huge pollution, as does the shipping used to get clothes from the warehouse to you or the store.

But we all need to dress, right? And for many of us, clothes and style are the way we express ourselves. So, how do we dress in a way that doesn’t support the fashion industry’s contribution to the climate crisis? The answer lies in avoiding fast fashion and buying sustainable clothes instead. Kate Fletcher, a professor at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at the University of the Arts London, identifies that sustainability is about both ‘human well-being and natural integrity’. In other words, sustainable clothes shouldn’t damage our environment or the lives of the workers that make them. Unfortunately, finding ways to buy clothes that avoid supporting worker exploitation takes a bit more effort than walking into your standard fast fashion store. I know what you’re thinking: ‘That’s all very nice, but how am I supposed to afford anything except fast fashion when I’m a student working a casual job and studying full-time?’ The good news is there’s a lot of easy ways to dress stylishly, on a budget, without compromising on sustainability.

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STUDENT LIFE

US E WHAT YO U ( AN D OTHER S) A LREADY H AV E Digging into the forgotten depths of your wardrobe is the greenest way to find new clothes. If you are like most people, you have a fair few clothes that languish on the hanger because you just don’t know how to style them. Why not try to pair these items with regulars that you know how to style? If you’re getting tired of wearing the same things even though you have tons of clothes, challenge yourself by pulling out an item or two at random, then creating a new outfit around those pieces. Don’t limit yourself to your own wardrobe — ask friends and family if they have any clothes they’d be willing to swap or lend you.

B U Y S ECO ND - H A ND AND H I R E Op-shops are a great way to buy cheap clothes without the environmental impact of buying new. If you’re new to thrifting or you think op-shop clothes are just for people who can pull off the art kid look, try looking at op-shops in bougie suburbs for barely worn clothes from brands you’ve always wanted to be able to afford. If you’re struggling to find clothes you like in op-shops, give consignment stores — their more expensive and higher-end cousin — a go. Alternatively, search eBay, Marketplace and Gumtree, or try out hiring clothes if you haven’t before, especially if you need a special one-off outfit for an event.

BE CR EAT IV E Sometimes, all that your wardrobe needs for a refresh is a little creativity. Simple alterations like taking a pair of scissors to a t-shirt to crop it, switching out some buttons, or changing a hemline, can take a piece of clothing from a wallflower to a staple. More complex skills, like embroidery, are fantastic ways to add life to garments. Why not sit down with somebody who is great at handicrafts and ask them to teach you, or consult the Internet during these times of social isolation? If you’re not up for sewing but painting is more your jam, you can use fabric paint to customise your jeans or denim jackets!

DEVELO P YO UR STY L E AN D S H O P CO NS CI O U S LY One of the best steps you can take towards making your wardrobe sustainable, is to move your style away from trends and fast fashion. Instead, work on finding a personal style you will love for years to come. When you buy something new, research the sustainability of the brand and try to buy clothes that are made ethically and with high-quality craftsmanship and materials.

Unfortunately, sustainable clothes are often expensive, but consciously saving up for a big ticket item can make it affordable and give you time to reflect on whether you can pair it with the clothes you already own and will be happy wearing it repeatedly for a long time. The ‘I can only be seen in this once’ mindset is something that many of us have, but consciously work against it and take pride in getting good wear out of clothes. Give your clothes some love; and the Earth, along with them!

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MUSIC

HOW YOU CAN HELP THE MUSIC INDUSTRY

Words // Kenith Png

Design // Willow Springate

It’s not hard to imagine. You’re stuck at home for the fourth consecutive week, bored out of your mind and fighting with your housemate over the last pack of two-minute noodles. But, between the late-night Zoom sessions with mates, regrettable TikToks and 30-day song challenges, you’re able to hold on to that last thread of sanity. As we traverse the waters of social isolation, music can be a saving grace. With COVID-19 restrictions resulting in live music being put on hold for the foreseeable future, musicians and music workers have lost a significant chunk of their income and livelihood. Estimates from ilostmygig.net.au put the national loss of income at $330 million. As Paramore’s lead singer Hayley Williams put it years ago: 'Support music every day because there isn’t a day music won’t be there for you!' So, here are a few ways you can help the industry.

DONATE TO SUPPORT ACT If you have the money to do so, donating to Support Act is a massive help. Support Act is Australia’s only charity delivering artists and music workers crisis relief resulting from injuries or other crises, with support ranging from financial support for medical bills to a 24/7 Support Act Wellbeing Helpline. You may also remember their annual Ausmusic T-Shirt Day campaign being brought forward from November this year to raise funds for musos.

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MUSIC

BUY MERCH The cancelled gigs and festivals make a significant portion of artists’ wages. So, buying that swanky tote bag, a fresh tee or juicy vinyl directly from artists’ websites, Bandcamp pages, or even supporting them via Patreon are some of the next sure-fire ways to invest in the artists you love. Support Act’s Sound of Silence campaign has a pretty comprehensive list of sites you can visit to buy merch from your favourite Aussie artists on their website.

SOCIAL MEDIA From the YouTube video that launched Maryland singer Maggie Rogers to the global scale to Lorde’s infamous hit single Royals, there’s a case to be made for social media boosting musicians’ success. While your single post probably won’t be making music history, subtle things like featuring a song on your Instagram story or just sharing the music you love on your preferred platform gets the lesser-known artists out there in more peoples’ ears. Not to mention, social media can be a great place for reaching out to people in the music community and boosting morale.

KEEP GOING TO GIGS Of course, you can continue to stream music on services like Spotify and Apple Music, but with social media features like Instagram Live, Facebook Live, Twitch and many other platforms, musicians have shown their ability to adapt in the face of adversity. Showing your support by virtual attendance is one of the more subtle (and, frankly, more affordable) ways of helping out. With musicians bringing the party to you through live-streamed gigs like Isol-Aid Festival and DIYsolation Festival, these intimate performances are the next best thing to fill the void left by real-life gig cancellations.

AS WE TRAVERSE THE WATERS OF SOCIAL ISOLATION, MUSIC CAN BE A SAVING GRACE

SHOW YOUR SUPPORT TO LOCAL LIVE VENUES Live venues are some of the most important places for great local music, and as the COVID-19 restrictions kicked in, they were some of the worst hit. It’s a sad reality that some iconic bars and venues, such Mt Lawley’s institution The Flying Scotsman, have likely shut their doors for the last time. Even Mojos Bar in Fremantle had to resort to a GoFundMe to stay afloat, calling for $60,000 from the community to prevent the venue, with its 50 years of history, from closing. In April this year, the GoFundMe page exceeded their goal, with almost $62,000 donated. Local venues like Mojos, Freo Social and The Bird, just to name a few, are where some of Perth’s most successful musicians — the Tame Impalas and the San Ciscos of the world — cut their teeth.

While times are tough for many, there are ways we can help ensure there’s a world of art, joy and culture on the other side of the COVID-19 crisis. So, for the time being, keep your headphones in, and support the music industry if you can.

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MUSIC

Words // Amelia Searson Design // Nina Dakin

TR ASH I N G F EST I VAL FASH I ON Remember music festivals? Those places where you could spend time with friends and listen to your favourite bands before the next scandal saw them cancelled. As we wait through this chaos to recommence the binge drinking festivities, we can reflect on a particularly important aspect of music festivals: fashion. You know, the combination of fluorescent lycra and feathers you’d be shunned from wearing in any other social setting. But what is the cost? Are people’s rose-coloured festival glasses blinding them from the harsh realities of the fashion industry? I interviewed some Curtin University students about the craziest outfits they’d seen worn at a music festival. '[I’d say] the equivalent to a g-string with fishnets and tape over their nipples', a festival-goer replied, trying to stifle her laughter. This was probably not an outfit that was bought with the intention of wearing at many other social gatherings, but don’t judge the g-string and strategically placed tape too harshly — their actual purpose is to rake in a bunch of likes on Instagram, duh.

Another festival-goer told me about the strangest outfit she’d seen. 'I saw a girl wearing leather chaps once… and I thought, you’re never going to wear that again.' When was the last time you saw someone in leather chaps, walking around your local supermarket? Wearing a pair of trackies, and the odd hazmat suit, to the shops is as brave as most people get these days. Crazy festival outfits aren’t deemed acceptable in all social situations. Their appeal is their shock value. The clothes make their debuts at one music festival and then get chucked to the back of a wardrobe to collect dust and never see the light of day again.

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MUSIC ...We suppress any acknowledgment of worker exploitation, purchase unethically sourced clothes, wear them once to get a picture for social media, and then toss them into landfill.

Sarah Rogan, a senior labour rights campaigner from Oxfam Australia, said fast fashion was deliberately disposable, in order to keep up with changing fashion trends. 'Fast fashion depends on clothes being disposable and not durable, [while] encouraging consumers to buy new styles constantly.' She said fast fashion had significant impacts on the garment industry. '[Fast fashion is] hugely popular for festival goers who want the latest gear… [it’s] putting pressure on the garment industry to produce cheaper clothes at a more rapid pace, which then puts downward pressure on wages.' Those who wear Western-style pants or socks with sandals may be regarded as fashion victims. But who are the real victims of the fashion industry? Oxfam recently reported on the working conditions for women in garment factories, where Sarah said the workers are often injured at work and abused by their supervisors. 'We spoke to over 400 workers in Bangladesh and in Vietnam around their work and often they have particular injuries from the type of work they perform… They often experience verbal and physical abuse from the supervisors.'

Garment factory workers are ripe for exploitation, they often don’t have a choice to leave because, even if the income is low, they need to support their families. These workers are still not being paid a living wage, according to Oxfam Australia. Sarah explained the women who make our clothes, in countries like Bangladesh, get paid sixty-two cents per hour. Have you ever spent sixty-two cents on a new piece of clothing? How much would you spend on a festival outfit? I put this question forward to the same uni students who described the craziest clothes they’ve seen at a music festival. I had responses ranging from $50 to $250. One festival-goer said she didn’t try to make sure the clothes she wore to festivals were ethically sourced. She justified that this was because it was stressful to find trendy outfits at the last minute and it wasn’t a priority to consider how ethically the piece was made. As consumers we suppress any acknowledgment of worker exploitation, purchase unethically sourced clothes, wear them once to get a picture for social media, and then toss them into landfill.

WHAT ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS DOES THIS SINGLE USE CULTURE HAVE? I talked with Caroline Perks, a sustainability expert who works with the WA branch of the United Nations Environment Committee. She said the fashion industry generates massive emissions. 'The United Nations were saying [that] 10 per cent of global greenhouse gases are coming from the fashion industry, which is a really, really decent chunk of emissions and an area we need to look at.'

She said she focused on making her pieces timeless, so people didn’t throw them away once the trends had changed. 'I like the idea of people coming in and just finding something that they love … they can then put [the piece] on and feel as if they can express a part of themselves, rather than thinking I've got to take a photo and put it on Instagram.'

Ms Perks said the fashion industry was being careless with the emissions they created and the large amount of resources they used. 'No one is factoring in emissions into their business profile and that's what's happening in the fashion industry… There's this creation of emissions and high use of water and high use of chemicals and pesticides that isn't being accounted for.' She said this waste was just being let off into the environment.

Oxfam’s Sarah Rogan said festival-goers should use their voices to make change within the fashion industry. 'If you do go out and buy the latest item of clothing for the festival… think about the women that make our clothes... Think about using your voice, as a person who buys clothes, to put pressure on Australian clothing brands to do the right thing and commit to paying a living wage.'

The owner of Lollop clothing, Tara Chesterman, sells festival clothes that are ethically made. She started her clothing line to provide people with an environmentally sensitive and ethical alternative to the clothes churned out by the big industries, complicit in the subordination of their workers.

This is in our hands now. So, when you’re next going to a festival, think twice about buying those leather chaps you will never wear again. Instead, focus on finding clothing that you might be able to re-use or that at least that has been ethically sourced and made. We have the potential to change the way that businesses and companies operate, and it is up to us to start to make things happen.

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