Perceptions of Skin by cynthyaliang

Perceptions of Skin

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

CONTENTS

10 18 30

Introduction

Rebecca

Natalia

36 40 52 Definitions

Jaiden

Debi

60 68 78 Myths

Heema

Self-Care

84 87 88 Credits

Acknowledgements

BTS

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

Introduction Growing up, my skin was always complicated. I’ve had eczema since I was about five or six years old and it’s something that has made me very self-aware and insecure about my appearance. I never hated my skin, but I didn’t love it either. Like most people, there are days where I feel like my skin looks amazing and I’m glowing; then there are other days where I feel like I need to cover up every single blemish I have. Since I’ve been managing my eczema for as long as I can remember, it’s pretty much a part of me–almost like a birthmark. In some ways, my eczema affects my daily life, but I would never consider it debilitating. It’s not painful, but it’s quite irritating and uncomfortable. Because my eczema is most visible on the back of my hands and on my face–specifically around my right eye and around my mouth–I do feel insecure when the patches are present. This is when I tend to not go out as much because I feel like everyone is staring at the dry patches on my face. In reality, people probably don’t care, but in my head, I think people are judging me. All I ever saw in the media were people with perfect skin–whether they were men or women. The only other people I knew who had eczema were my mom, my sister, and my best friend, so I never felt like I could find advice about how to manage my skin. I always felt like an outsider, especially when it came to treatments. The products being advertised were usually for acne, dark spots, or wrinkles. Even if the product was labelled “for dry skin”, I felt like it wouldn’t work for me because my skin was extremely dry. I would buy so many different products just so I could achieve skin that was considered “perfect” because, from my perspective, you would only be admired or popular if you were pretty–and this is something that is often seen in movies, where the popular kids were the most good looking ones at school. 11

I was born in Canada and grew up under western influences. The idea of being tanned was so frequently talked about that it made me believe I needed to look like that. In contrast, the Chinese culture that my family raised me under believes that being pale made you more beautiful. For so many years, I felt like the two cultures that surrounded me were in a constant battle over the appearance of my skin. I would want to go out and tan at the beach with my friends and look golden, but I didn’t want to get tanned and look “dirty”–as my grandma would say–because a lighter complexion was purer. All of these factors and influences from the media and my culture made me confused about my self-image because I was never really able to pinpoint how I saw myself. It’s weird because, for a long time, I felt like an outsider that couldn’t meet the beauty ideal created by the media or either culture that I grew up with. Even today, I feel like my selfimage is blurred. Perceptions of Skin became a topic of interest because I wanted to understand how the media and different cultures affect the way people see themselves. More specifically, I wanted to take a deeper look at the experiences of people living with a skin condition. This book is a compilation of interviews about how the media and cultural variables influence the perception of the skin’s beauty and affect the self-image of individuals. Furthermore, it includes definitions of skin conditions, clarifies myths and offers self-care advice.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

— Media and beauty standards have made it almost impossible to accept skin that doesn’t look like the “ideal”. I often compare my skin to models, pop culture icons, celebrities and even strangers I see every day.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

For as long as I can remember, I’ve always wanted my skin to look like someone else’s. I’ve always wished for my skin to be as perfect as it is for others. 15

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

Rebecca Age: 25 years old Ethnicity: Caucasian

WHAT IS YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR SKIN?

sometimes I can be a little bit annoyed with it. Considering what my skin looks like currently, it’s miles above what it used to be. Overall, I’d say I’m satisfied with my appearance. I don’t think it’s like a “wow, it looks amazing”, but sometimes, I’m really happy with my skin. Sometimes I look back at pictures and I’ll see just how bad it was and I’m not as upset about these little stress zits that come up. Before, I use not even go outside because my skin was so bad. I would cake on makeup every single day because that was the only way I was comfortable going outside.

I have acne as well as eczema that flares up from time to time. It’s tricky and it’s been an extensive journey. In terms of relationship, for a long time, my acne has been really bad, but now it’s better and that’s only because of medical intervention. I don’t think there was any love toward my skin–just a lot of hate. My acne started getting bad in the first year of university–it wasn’t bad in high school– and that was eight years ago. My skin was really bad, so I started to think that I was doing something wrong and that I needed to invest in more products. At that point, I was already spending hundreds to thousands of dollars at Sephora. I was going through every product I could. Eventually, I had enough, and I didn’t know what else to do. I didn’t even want to go outside anymore. I went to my family doctor and told her what was going on. She prescribed me this medication–Benzaclin–and it a topical ointment. I applied it in the morning, and at night as I was told. Then one day, I woke up and my eyes were almost completely swollen shut. I looked like a completely different person. I found out that I had an allergic reaction to the medication, and it caused a chemical burn on my face. It was so painful. I learned that my acne is hormonal and a lot of it was tied to stress. I’ll get things here and there, but everything is hormonal. I wasted eight years of my life thinking about my skin. I regret spending all of that time and money at Sephora; all those hours watching tutorials and videos, and then worrying about it at night, and waking up not feeling good enough in the mirror. I have so many regrets about letting the appearance of my skin control me. Hindsight, it’s 2020; I think that had to happen for me to understand it now.

HAS YOUR SKIN CONDITION AFFECTED HOW YOU PERFORM TASKS OR SOCIALIZE WITH OTHERS?

It affects everything because it almost dictates if I want to go outside, or if I’m feeling confident enough to face people. I think it just depends on what it is, but for the most part, it affects everything in my day-to-day life because it’s my face and it’s visible. It’s one of the first things people see when they look at me. The other day, I was at a Bar Mitzvah and a portion of the party was at a water park. I was told, “oh, we need you to watch the kids in the water.” I agreed, but then I started thinking–because the water park portion was before the actual party–I couldn’t wrap my head around swimming photographer around me. I was really in my head about it and I ended up just sitting in the hot tub with my hair up and makeup on. It limited me in a way where I couldn’t fully enjoy the party. Two or three years ago, I was in Mexico with my family. During the first couple of days, I didn’t have any makeup on, and my skin was the worst that it’s ever been. I think it’s because I finally wasn’t wearing makeup and my skin was able to breathe. I remember sitting on the balcony of the Airbnb, and I wondered how I was going to enjoy my vacation when my skin looked so bad. I just said, “seriously, fuck it.” I wasn’t going to waste my vacation because I felt

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR SELF-IMAGE? It’s a lot better than what it was before. I think I’m generally in good shape. I’m a lot happier in my skin now, but

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN When you listen to the kind of language they are using, it’s very negative so you can be like “oh, what’s wrong with me”. Because of these taglines, like “achieve perfect skin”, it’s really hard to follow. There is someone I follow on Instagram, but it’s because I love her YouTube videos. Her name is Ling KT. She’s from the UK and her skin used to be bad. One day, she came out with this whole video about how she got better skin without Accutane and obviously I liked it because it was super real. A lot of it DOES THE MEDIA HAVE AN INFLUENCE was her not taking off her makeup properly, ON YOUR IDEA OF PERFECT SKIN AND which makes sense, but a lot of it too was, HOW YOU VIEW YOUR SKIN? When it’s just me by myself or I’ve been at the “I have to pay thousands of dollars at spas and go to a dermatologists for microdermcottage for a weekend with a couple of close friends, I don’t care. When I’m going outside to abrasion and facials”. That is how you get it. the mall or going to a job interview, I feel like I They’re medical interventions. She posts all have to look a certain way. For some reason, if of her treatments which is what I like more and more; seeing beauty YouTubers posting you have acne, you’re considered dirty. It’s just their skin journey and that includes things one of those things where it was so annoying like “here is me with my esthetician, who I because I’d have to layer on foundation, but see once every three weeks, getting a facial, that just led to more clogged pores and it’s a getting the dermabrasion.” cycle. If I don’t look a certain way, I’m not goI think there’s a shift coming but I don’t ing to be taken seriously because that is what think it’s there to the point where the media media has fed to us from all eternity. It’s really hard to get into a mindset where it’s not real. I isn’t going to be harmful because they’re still portraying something that doesn’t exist. fell into that trap of watching people talk about There’s a long way to still go because so much their skin journey on YouTube. When you’re of the portrayal around things are negative on YouTube, it’s like “wow, they look so good” just to sell those products. There needs to be but in my head, I know they have beautymore of a movement from people with more lights. Slowly, I’ve been unfollowing people of a voice to ask, “why are these unrealistic on social media. I’ve been trying to–knowing standards placed?” A lot of young people who that I’m going to be watching YouTube–folbad about my skin. Then I went on, lived my vacation life, and did everything that I wanted to do. I didn’t wear any makeup the whole time and I never felt better. My skin was so great by the end because I wasn’t wearing all these things to cover it up, so I didn’t have to worry about it. That’s when my perception started to shift, and I began to question “what am I doing this for?” because it’s not for me. None of that covering up was for me.

“If I don’t look a certain way, I’m not going to be taken seriously because that is what media has fed to us from all eternity.” low people who are more real and authentic about their skin. I love seeing makeup artists like Raw Beauty Kristi or Jackie Aina and Makeup Shayla–who don’t have the best skin–and these are the type of people who I like to be following. When I see taglines and advertisements about getting perfect skin, it bothers me a lot more, and more because it’s unrealistic. These things don’t make any sense and it’s harmful, especially for young girls who might be going through puberty and they’re getting their first pimples. I remember taking a gender course in third-year university and it was talking about how all advertisements targeted towards women–and a lot towards men too, but the majority of advertisements for women are meant to make them feel bad so they’ll buy the product. 20

are watching these things will think “I’m never going to be beautiful.” Why do you want to have people in society think that their worth is based on what they look like? I think the problem with celebrities is that they don’t talk about how much money is going into that face of theirs. Even if a celebrity wasn’t wearing any makeup, they probably have $1,000 worth of moisturizers and creams on their face. They have a whole team of people just for maintaining their image. There’s this transition that’s going towards a perfectly tanned, big full lips, tiny waist look. The face is sculpted with contouring and everything; it’s so chiselled. Even when my eyebrow hairs are crazy, I need to book an appointment. Like why? It’s the little things that seem so weird to me, but it’s so hard to break

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN out of because this is what’s been ingrained in me as a woman since I was born. It’s so hard to unlearn.

HOW DOES CULTURE SHAPE THE WAY YOU VIEW YOURSELF AND YOUR SKIN?

If there’s a culture around skin perfection, then that’s how we’re going to understand our skin. Right now, the culture around women’s standards is completely unrealistic and that’s because of a bunch of famous people who look a certain way. You look at yourself, you don’t see that and it’s really hard to see yourself as worth anything. It’s a very defeating feeling. Women are often told they have to look a certain way and use makeup to make themselves presentable. It didn’t click for me until I was with my now-partner. When we first started dating, I was freaking out about when he was going to see me without makeup and how he would react. It’s funny because he doesn’t really notice these things and I still don’t know if he knows when I do or don’t have makeup on. Some people just do not care and the person who cares the most is you. It took a long time for me to realize that. The majority of my perception was based on the culture around me and what I saw being projected. I think social media is like a plague. It’s so bad and the culture that’s been created because of it–with YouTubers and Instagrammers–it’s getting so big. Everything that we’re understood to be is a set standard that’s ingrained in our culture, and a lot of it is in our head. I used to be uncomfortable not wearing makeup because the culture I was exposed to made me feel like I wasn’t pretty without it. I think there is so much unlearning that society needs to do, and it starts with just unplugging and re-evaluating what’s actually important. Take a step back and see how much better you feel when you just stop giving a shit about what people say about you. Like who cares? It’s so easy to say, but you have to get to that point because it will consume you.

that’s a therapy thing–and I’ve been in therapy for a long time. I used to always dress up so much. I was always wearing dresses, had one pair of pants; like I only wore skirts and dresses. It was this weird male-gaze-related idea that I had to look a certain way and meet the standards of men. You have to logically reason your way out of this way of thinking. Then again, it’s easier said than done. It took me a while, but I realized that I had to think about it in the way as if I’m looking at another person. I’m not going to be like “God, look at how ugly they are because they have a zit on their forehead”. I’ve never thought that in my life, so why would other people think that of me? Everyday, I walk around and see hundreds of people on the subway and I sit there thinking that everyone’s staring at me because my eczema is bad. It’s not true because I’ve never noticed anyone on the subway. At the end of the day, everyone is just a blurred face. There’s so much unlearning that we need to do, but right now, our society and cultural values are not set up for that. It’s set up to sell more product, which is sold on thinking that you’re ugly.

WHAT ADVICE DO YOU HAVE FOR THOSE LIVING WITH SKIN CONDITION?

To people with a skin condition, who are suffering from the negative effects of media and cultures–myself included–just stop caring about what others think. You have to find a way–whatever it is, whatever tool you want to use–find a way to just stop caring. I always feel like RuPaul’s saying has helped me a lot; “Unless they’re paying your bills, pay them bitches no mind.”

ARE THERE ANY CULTURAL VALUES THAT AFFECT HOW YOU TREAT YOUR SKIN?

I just think that the value of what a woman is worth affects how I treat my skin. Right now, our culture values women solely on their appearance. The resistance for it isn’t as big as it is because a woman has to look a certain way to be valued by men and other women. So, their perception of themselves and how other people view them–like our worth–is tied to another person’s perception of us; which is so messed up and it’s so upsetting. For 25 years, I believed that what people thought of you is what you’re worth–not your productivity, not your three degrees, not all the things that you do. Who you are as a person should be how you value yourself. Your opinion of you is the only thing that matters and if your opinion is like “oh, I’m ugly because my skin is this”, 21

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

There is so much unlearning that society needs to do, and it starts with just unplugging and re-evaluating whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s actually important.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

— Young women are taught that they’re supposed to be flawless and beautiful.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

If your skin isn’t clear, you need to “fix” it with products like makeup, or else you’ll be looked down on.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

Natalia Age: 21 years old Ethnicity: Colombian

WHAT IS YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR SKIN?

My relationship with my skin is a love-hate relationship. In the past two years, I’ve been struggling with it a lot. For the most part, I like my skin. Before 2018, I used to love my skin a lot. The only thing I had issues with was the acne on my face; the rest of my skin was perfect. Ever since 2018, my relationship with my skin has gone downhill because it broke out with eczema and I haven’t been able to get rid of it. It’s been a lot of pitying myself since then, and I just feel a lot of hatred towards this condition. I wish it would go away because it gets me so frustrating. I didn’t understand why I had to go through this but I’m trying to shift that feeling because it’s just so negative and doesn’t help me or my situation at all. Lately, I’ve been trying to be grateful for my skin because it’s making me realize the importance of self-love. I already didn’t like my skin before because of acne, but now I feel like I have a condition that’s way worse than that. I’ve been trying to be more grateful instead of feeling so much hatred towards myself. It’s healing, so I don’t get as upset because I believe the worst part is over. Now I’m just trying to fade away the scars and the dark spots.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR SELF-IMAGE?

In terms of skin, my self-image is pretty trashy–and that’s not a good self-image. I feel self-conscious about my skin. Because of the whole eczema breakout, I don’t like my skin anymore. Every time I look in the mirror, I just feel bad for myself. I’m like, “Wow, you’re fucking ugly.”–and that’s really bad. For a long time, I tried not to look into mirrors because I did not want to see my body. I’ve asked myself, “Why me? Why does my skin have to break out in this horrible way?” Ironically, my acne is clearing up, so I like my face again–and I used to always hate the way my face looked because of my acne. It’s a contradicting self-mage because I’m happy with some parts of my skin and I hate other parts of it.

HAS YOUR SKIN CONDITION AFFECTED HOW YOU PERFORM TASKS OR SOCIALIZE WITH OTHERS?

It definitely has affected me–especially my eczema. I’m fine with the acne because that was something I’ve had since I was 7 years old, so I know how to handle it. I also have makeup to help me cover up any acne and breakouts. The eczema, however, has affected me on a very large scale. It completely changed the way I dress ever. I haven’t worn short sleeve tops, skirts, or dresses in a long time. I wear jeans every day because I don’t like showing my legs. I don’t even wear shorts in the summer. I can’t wear backless or off-the-shoulder tops because then the scars on my body are visible and I don’t want anybody to see them. That is frustrating because I can’t dress the way that I want to. In terms of socializing with other people, I feel like I am less confident because I can’t wear what makes me feel my best. I always feel like I’m hiding something or that I can’t show off who I am. With my boyfriend, I feel like it’s hard to be confident around him because we both know that I have this skin condition that makes me hate my skin. It’s tough because I’m still getting used to my eczema. With my family and friends, I don’t have a problem socializing with them because they all know about my skin condition and they’re all very accepting. They don’t judge me for it, they’re very encouraging, and they always tell me to wear whatever I want–regardless of the scars–and to just be myself. Last summer, I went to Cabana Pool Bar for a concert. I was literally wearing long sleeves with jeans and it was the most frustrating thing ever because everyone else was wearing t-shirts, skirts and dresses. I was covered head to toe because I didn’t want anybody to see my scars. It was fucking hot and it was uncomfortable. When I went to Colombia last winter–and Colombia is a tropical place–I didn’t show my skin at all. Again, I was covered head to toe everywhere I went. In the fall and winter, it’s fine, but 30

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

Lately, I’ve been trying to be grateful for my skin because it’s making me realize the importance of self-love.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN when the weather gets warmer, I want to wear lighter clothing, but I can’t because I don’t feel comfortable showing my skin.

DOES THE MEDIA HAVE AN INFLUENCE ON YOUR IDEA OF PERFECT SKIN AND HOW YOU VIEW YOUR SKIN?

The media does influence my idea of skin because all I see are people with clear skin. You never see people with blemishes; you don’t see people with scars; you don’t see people with dark spots. In the cases where you do, it’s usually for an acne advertisement or something along the lines of that. But even examples like that are staged–it’s not real people with acne. It’s always a fake zit or a fake scar on someone’s face, just to sell whatever product it is being promoted. Before 2018, I think my skin fit within the ideal projected by the media, and now that it doesn’t, the media affects me. Before, I didn’t think about my skin because it was fine and there was nothing abnormal or wrong with it. There was no major breakout of anything, so I literally felt like I could relate to the girls that I saw in the media. Now that I don’t look like them, I feel like there’s something wrong with me because my skin doesn’t look like everyone else’s–whether it’s in the media or advertising. I don’t fit with the ideal anymore and I’m far from it. Whenever I would see skin-related advertisements, it all seemed legitimate to me. When people would say “This cream will get rid of breakouts”, or “This cream will get rid of stretch marks.”, or whatever imperfection you have, I thought it was all true. I assumed that all of these products worked, but I didn’t really care because I didn’t have any of those problems. Now that I do, I feel like these ads are pretty much bullshit because everybody’s skin is different. It depends on who you are, and it depends on your skin. Even saying things like “Oh, this will help you achieve perfect skin”, is a lie because no one’s skin is perfect. I’ve realized now–looking at other people–that I’m so much more selfconscious than I used to be. I’m more aware of other people’s skin and I feel like there’s a lot of people that have imperfections. It’s just how they are and it’s just how the skin is. No amount of creams–no nothing–will make

“Now, I feel like I’m even further away from the ideal because my skin is completely scarred. ”

it completely go away or be perfect because there is not such thing as perfect. I feel like there is a shift happening when it comes to the skin. People are starting to share their personal stories and their experience with whatever skin condition they have. I think it started when like people were like “We need more body representation”, or when people started getting different sized models in the media. I feel like that same idea is starting to trickle down into other areas of representation. Now, instead of just being like different body sizes, it’s people of different cultures. It’s even gotten to the point where people with different skin conditions are being included. So, I do feel like there’s a change in perspective happening and it’s a really big deal. I think millennials are really pushing this idea and they’re embracing diversity; it’s setting an example for younger generations and those to come. I definitely feel like it’s a direction that we’re going to keep moving towards and we should.

HOW DOES YOUR CULTURE SHAPE THE WAY YOU VIEW YOURSELF AND SKIN?

I’m Latina, so whenever I see Latina woman in the media, I always see the same bronze, perfectly tanned, smooth legged woman with long curly hair, hourglass figure and no blemishes on their skin. The ideal Latina woman is pretty much flawless, just like any other ideal figure. I didn’t fit into that ideal to begin with because I don’t have that figure and my skin is very light. Now, I feel like I’m even further away from the ideal because my skin is completely covered in scars. In the summer, I always buy tanning oil because I want to achieve that bronze golden look. Every time I use it, I look more Latina which is why I love it because that’s my goal. I want to look as Colombian as possible because without the tan, I just look Canadian and that’s pretty boring to me. Every summer, I make sure that I get nice and golden. If I don’t get the golden tan that I love, I’ll get upset. Because of my culture, I associate beauty with glowing, tanned skin. Since I don’t naturally match the Latina ideal, I’m compelled to buy all these tanning products in hopes of achieving that golden bronze look.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

Definitions

With the many different kinds of skin conditions, some may seem very similar. Here is a guide to some of the most common skin conditions.

ACNE

Acne, also known as acne vulgaris, is the skin condition most commonly seen by doctors. It occurs when pores become clogged by dead skin cells resulting in accumulation of sebum, an oily substance produced by oil glands, and can increase under the influence of hormones. This, coupled with insufficient shedding of exfoliating dead skin cells, plugs hair follicles. The plugged follicle can become inflamed and have increased growth of normal skin bacteria. The result is acne, the term used to describe emerging blackheads, whiteheads, pimples and cysts. Acne usually appears on the face and neck but can also affect shoulders, back and upper arms.

ECZEMA

Eczema (atopic dermatitis) is a disorder associated with dry skin, which begins with intense itching that is aggravated by scratching and causes inflammation of the skin. Inflamed or eczematous skin is red, itchy and swollen sometimes with fluid-filled bumps that ooze and crust. Common causes of eczema include an allergic reaction to something touching the skin, such as poison ivy or nickel, or contact with chemicals that damage the outer skin, such as strong soaps and substances that dry or irritate the skin. Heat, humidity, detergents/soaps, abrasive clothing (eg, very scratchy wools), chemicals, smoke, as well as stress may trigger eczema. While eczema is a common problem, it is not contagious. Some types are hereditary. While some children outgrow the condition, eczema cannot be cured.

KERATOSIS PILARIS

Keratosis pilaris is a very common benign skin condition appearing as small, whitish bumps on the upper arms and thighs, especially of children and young adults. Individual lesions of keratosis pilaris arise when a hair follicle becomes plugged with keratin, a protein found in skin, hair, and nails. Some people say these bumps look like goosebumps or the skin of a plucked chicken. Others mistake the bumps for small pimples. The plugs appear most often on the upper arms and thighs (front). Children may have these bumps on their cheeks. Because keratosis pilaris is harmless, you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need to treat it. If the itch, dryness, or the appearance of these bumps bothers you, treatment can help.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

MELASMA

Melasma is a common disorder of unknown cause that causes dark (hyperpigmented) patches, primarily on the face. The condition is marked by brown patches that worsen in response to increases of the hormone estrogen, such as during pregnancy or with the use of birth control pills. Other medications, such as anti-seizure medications, may also cause melasma. Increased sun exposure can also be a cause. This means wearing sunscreen every day and reapplying the sunscreen every two hours. Most people get it on their cheeks, bridge of their nose, forehead, chin, and above their upper lip. It also can appear on other parts of the body that get lots of sun, such as the forearms and neck.

MILIA

Milia are commonly found on the skin of people of all ages. They are formed when keratin (a substance produced by the skin) becomes entrapped beneath the outer layer of the skin, forming a tiny cyst. An individual milium (the singular of milia) is formed at the base of a hair follicle or sweat gland. Milia can be categorized as either primary or secondary. Primary milia are formed directly from entrapped keratin and are usually found on the faces of infants and adults. Secondary milia are also tiny cysts and look similar, but these develop after something clogs the ducts leading to the skin surface, such as after an injury, burn, or blistering of the skin.

PSORIASIS

Psoriasis is a noncontagious, lifelong skin condition. People with psoriasis have thickened, red, and often scaly patches on their skin. While lesions can appear anywhere on the body, the most common sites include elbows, knees, scalp, chest and lower back. Psoriasis is very likely to run in families, but it can also be triggered by certain situations, such as emotional stress, injury to the skin, infection, as well as taking certain medications. The exact cause of psoriasis is unknown, but it seems to be caused by errors in how the immune system functions.

ROSACEA

Rosacea, sometimes called adult acne, is a chronic inflammation of the face of unknown cause and without a permanent cure. The first sign may be intermittent redness or blushing. Over time, the redness may become persistent and more visible. The most common sites for symptoms are the cheeks, nose, chin and forehead. Sometimes rosacea may involve the eyes as well and include symptoms such as bloodshot eyes that feel gritty. More than half of rosacea sufferers may experience eye symptoms. Rosacea symptoms can vary from one person to another and severity is unpredictable. There is no known cure, but it can be managed with appropriate treatment and lifestyle changes.

VITILIGO

Vitiligo is a disease where the immune system turns against itself (autoimmune disease) where immune cells of the body attack the color-producing (pigment-producing) cells to cause white patches on the skin, which may contain hairs that are white in color. It may remain in the area where it started (localized) or it may become more widespread. What causes this color loss is still a mystery. We do know that vitiligo is not contagious. It is not life-threatening, but vitiligo can be life-altering. Some people develop low self-esteem. They may no longer want to hang out with friends. They can develop serious depression. Most people have vitiligo for life, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to develop coping strategies. A coping strategy that helps many people is to learn about vitiligo. Another helpful strategy is to connect with others who have vitiligo. 37

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

Jaiden Age: 22 years old Ethnicity: Jamaican

WHAT IS YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR SKIN?

It’s like a roller coaster–it has its ups and downs. On some days, my skin doesn’t look the greatest, and on others, my skin looks beautiful. I’ve just been dealing with it through many stages of my life. I don’t hate it, but I also don’t love it. For a long time, my skin made me insecure and selfconscious. Not only did I have acne, but I was also a Black male, and people saw me differently because of that. It doesn’t bother me anymore now because I’ve accepted my skin. The journey has been difficult, with a lot of trial and error. I didn’t know much about taking care of my skin because it was never a topic that came up in conversations, so I had to learn about my skin on my own. Growing up, using products beyond a simple cleanser and moisturizer was more popular with girls. Using an extensive range of products was basically considered a feminine practice. Through my trial and error process, I realized that my skin needed different products to help maintain my acne. I began using face masks, high-tech tools, and treatments. Although these things were popularized by women, I didn’t care. I don’t think it makes me less of a man just because I care about my skin and I want it to look good. I felt like these products are what worked best for my skin and I’m completely okay with using them because it helps with my acne. How I treat my skin is a part of maintaining and grooming my appearance.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR SELF-IMAGE?

I would describe myself as someone who is confident in my own skin. My appearance isn’t perfect, nor is it even close to being. My skin will get oily; I have scars and dark spots; I’ll get a pimple here and there, but I try not to let it bother me. I don’t think I’m ugly or super attractive. I think I look like the average African American male.

HAS YOUR SKIN CONDITION AFFECTED HOW YOU PERFORM TASKS OR SOCIALIZE WITH OTHERS?

When my skin isn’t looking the greatest and when I have a lot of acne, I don’t like attending social events or gatherings. I don’t go to the club, parties, or places where there 41

are a lot of people I don’t know. I prefer to just stay in. When my skin is at its worst and my acne is really bad, I feel embarrassed, less social and I don’t want to do anything outside of the house. It gives me a bit of anxiety because–when I do go outside–it makes me overthink. Thoughts like “Are they staring at me?” and “Why are they looking at me?” will often cross my mind. I would rather not go out into an environment where I feel like I’ll be judged. If my skin is breaking out and I’m around people I’m familiar with, I don’t feel uncomfortable because they always give me advice. They’ll often suggest new products for me to try because they are aware of my skin journey. Luckily, my acne doesn’t affect any tasks I perform because I don’t feel like I’m limited by it.

DOES THE MEDIA HAVE AN INFLUENCE ON YOUR IDEA OF PERFECT SKIN AND HOW YOU VIEW YOUR SKIN?

There is a lot of pressure from the media to be perceived as perfect–like having flawless skin. The men that I see in the media are always blemish-free, with good looking, smooth skin. When I compare myself to them, I feel like we don’t share the same qualities. My pores are large; my skin tone is uneven; I have dark spots on my face. I feel like social media–more than any form of media–has influenced how I view my skin. With social media, I feel like people can be super opinionated because they’re talking behind a screen. I always see posts about people “roasting” someone because they look a certain way. It’s mostly negative comments that I see being made on social media. I don’t read comments on posts about people being complimented on how their skin looks, especially when it’s a guy’s post. I’ll see situations like that happen between girls, but it’s rare to see a guy compliment another guy’s skin. It pressures me to feel like I need to have perfect skin all the time even though it’s not realistic. I don’t have any major issues with advertisements for skincare products and I don’t find that they affect my perception. In my eyes, I see them as an option that I could try. I don’t feel forced to believe them in any way. Some people may be heavily influenced by taglines and adver-

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN tisements, but I prefer to not jump the gun and buy a product because I see it promoted everywhere. I think the media and advertising industry does a great job of motivating people to buy certain products based on beauty ideals and what’s trendy. However, one thing that bothers me slightly is the lack of varying skin tones being represented. It’s starting to change, and more companies are using an individual with darker skin–for both men and women–but it is still mainly fair-skinned people being shown. Sometimes I feel underrepresented because of that and I feel pressured to have clear and lighter skin. The media influences my perception of my skin and other people’s skin, but I don’t feel harmed by it. I think it really depends on where my head and mindset are in at that moment. If I feel a bit more insecure, then obviously, the media is going to affect me more, but it never gets to the point where I devalue myself. On the days where I’m content about my skin

“I don’t think it makes me less of a man just because I care about my skin and I want it to look good.” and how I look, I don’t really pay attention to the media. Since I’ve had reoccurring acne for many years, I understand that the body is always changing and reacting to the environment. No one is going to look flawless and blemish-free every day, so I know the messages in mass media are bullshit.

DO YOU THINK TAKING CARE OF YOUR SKIN IS STILL CONSIDERED A FEMINISED PRACTICE?

Before, having a “skincare routine” was only common for women and was considered feminine. I feel like more men are being open about skincare and share their routine. Men are known to be rougher around the edges, and they usually receive less criticism compared to women. I think conversations about the skin are more tailored to women, but it’s starting to include men. Even now, my male friends are becoming more interested in taking care of their skin, and this may be because it’s being more commonly talked about by the media. With media platforms like YouTube, Facebook, Instagram and Reddit, I can see that more men are comfortable with talking about their skin, the products they 42

use, and their experience with trying to find a solution for their skin; without feeling like they are interfering with their masculinity. Personally, I don’t think taking care of your skin is a feminized practice, but companies make it seem like it is. There are all these products made and promoted for women; like cleansers, toners, moisturizers, masks, scrubs, and beauty tools. The product range for men isn’t as large and usually just includes cleansers, moisturizers, and a lot of beard care. Yes, a man could use the women’s products as well, but I feel like most men don’t want to, especially now that they started labelling products as “for men”. For lotion, they have Nivea, and then they have Nivea For Men. Even cleansing brushed like the Clarasonic has a different attachment made specifically for men. I don’t know why they created a divide, but I feel like the difference between female skincare and male skincare has limited the product choices for men. My interest in taking care of my skin doesn’t affects my masculinity, but I do feel like the acne treatments that I get affect it, only because they’re less common with men. I feel like everybody should be taking care of themselves and their skin regarless of their gender. It’s a basic human need.

HOW DOES YOUR CULTURE SHAPE THE WAY YOU VIEW YOURSELF AND SKIN?

My family is from Jamaica, so I have a darker complexion. I noticed that a lot of people would use bleaching or skin lightening products. If we go back in time, Black people with a lighter complexion were given better opportunities compared to those with a darker complexion. I really think the idea of “if you have lighter skin, you will have more opportunities because you fit closer to the ideal” has continued to be passed down by generations. Skin bleaching has never affected me personally because I was raised to be proud of my skin colour. I’m quite comfortable with my skin. In my opinion, lightening soaps and bleaching creams never gave good results because the complexion you get wouldn’t even be close to what people with that natural skin tone looked like. I feel like it changed the perception of how Black people saw each other and how other people saw Black people.

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I feel like everybody should be taking care of themselves and their skin regardless of their gender.

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â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Perfecting skin filters on social media make it hard for me to be photographed regularly.

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Clear, bright skin is so common on every media platform. Anything that strays from that isn’t “normal”. Even a small pimple makes me self-conscious. 49

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Debi Age: 31 years old Ethnicity: Jamaican

WHAT IS YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR SKIN?

My relationship with skin is actually a deep one. Your skin is basically who you are. From the outside, it defines everything about you. We often don’t realize that our skin is part of that “two-minute first impression” and a lot of people look at our skin when it comes to determining: are they clean? are they dirty? do they have a fashion sense? or even if they just care about themselves. For me personally, the skin has been something that justifies who I am and helps me justify who others are. About two years ago, I found out that I have psoriasis. At first, I thought it was eczema, but I learned it was actually psoriasis based on how it began to break out. During my first experience with psoriasis, I noticed my skin darkening and becoming rash-like. One day, I woke up with a full-blown rash all over my chest. I wasn’t too sure what was going on because I’d always protect my skin. I can’t wear artificial jewelry, so I knew my necklaces weren’t the issue. Usually, when something like that happens, I use a steroid cream like hydrocortisone, which helps with the inflammation. But this break out was like no other and I knew something wasn’t right. Within two days, it was bleeding and scabbing. Eventually, I got a cream to help alleviate the pain. I accept my psoriasis more than my scars, and it’s weird. My scars just annoy me more because it’s a lot harder to diminish when you have a darker complexion, especially as they age.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR SELF-IMAGE?

I’m a walking stereotype. I’ve always described myself as that because that is who I am. I’m a Black bisexual Canadian, with tattoos and piercings, but I’m also well educated, well-mannered and able to speak on behalf of myself. That’s something a lot of people do get confused about. So, I say walking stereotype or stigma because I’m everything and nothing.

HAS YOUR SKIN CONDITION AFFECTED HOW YOU PERFORM TASKS OR SOCIALIZE WITH OTHERS?

My psoriasis affects me quite a bit, especially when it comes to my hands. They tend to get dry and causes my hands to tense up. I have existing nerve damage, so my hands are limited in certain positions and movements. When it comes to my legs, it hurts because they’ll get so swollen. My psoriasis has affected the way I dress now and if I’m able to wear certain clothing. If I’m wearing something that makes me sweat, moisture is created and then I become stressed, which creates more moisture. Eventually, everything builds up and my skin becomes irritated. I severed my tendon working at Forever 21–I’ve had a few surgeries–so, I have a nerve graft. When I wear certain shirts or certain materials, they can irritate it and raise it. It’ll get inflamed because it’s a skin graph, but I can’t really do anything about it. Even certain bras now make me uncomfortable because it’s hits where I have some scarring. Emotionally, my psoriasis has made me sad, but not in way where I’m depressed. I get sad because it limits what I’m able to do. However, it has enlightened me because I was able to start a business where I make personal skin care products. These homemade products have helped me with mental stress and the physical stress on my skin. This journey started when I realized the products I was buying and being prescribed weren’t working, or they only gave me short and temporary relief. I’ve tried brands like Aveeno, Derma E, and Bio-Oil but my skin wasn’t able to absorb those products that well. From that experience, I thought of trying to make a product on my own. So, I started creating a non-scented, easy-to-use cleanser and in-shower lotion. With that, it allows me to continue taking the hot showers that I love, and my skin can take in all the moisture it needed. Since the products were being activated in the shower, my skin could absorb and lock in the 52

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PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN moisturizing agents. Although having psoriasis is a bummer, it’s created a new path for me. I’m now able to share my knowledge and products with others who have a similar skin experience as me.

DOES THE MEDIA HAVE AN INFLUENCE ON YOUR IDEA OF PERFECT SKIN AND HOW YOU VIEW YOUR SKIN?

It does, but not in a positive way. It doesn’t focus on what matters, and a lot of it is retail. It doesn’t focus on the actual causes or reasons as to why these things are happening. We know these skin conditions exist, but there’s no input on the simple aspect of “Why is this going on?”, “How is it being affected?”, “What could be affecting it?”, and “How can we fix it without having to spend an excessive amount of money?” I found that the media does two things; it allows us to be more aware of what needs more attention and it allows people to–I almost want to say–abuse what needs to be given attention. It’s either marketing or educating, and educating isn’t the first thing that will make you rich. A while ago, there was this acne commercial where this guy stated, “everyone thinks that I eat too many chocolate bars, or I don’t wash my face”. He had what looked like blistering acne. There are so many other things that we could’ve done, but the product being sold was what people knew. That three-kit step thing the big thing because of how it was marketed. If I’m seeing the prettiest girl with “I hate my skin” underneath it–am I supposed to hate my skin or hate the girl in the picture? Because I hate my skin…because I’m looking at the pretty girl in the picture.

HOW DOES YOUR CULTURE SHAPE THE WAY YOU VIEW YOURSELF AND SKIN?

I would want to say that I have three cultures. Three cultures that I do kind of resonate more with: the arts, my heritage, and my community. One of the most cherishing lessons that I learned from my parents is how to take care of my skin because we didn’t have perfect skin. When parents from another country, another culture come over to another culture and country, they aren’t adapted. Their children who were born into that culture are adapted, but they still have their ethnic culture within them. It’s almost like we’re battling these two things, but we want them to be the same. I find that when I live in Toronto, I’m way more cautious when it comes to my skin, my image, or how I look because my fashion background clicks in. At the same time, my heritage is something that pulls me back from going too far. I’m Black, so I can’t wear the same colours that White people do; I can’t get tattooed with colours because I have melatonin; I can’t stay in the sun too long because I’ll get dark instead of tanned. My arts culture has allowed me to be creative in the way that I

want to be perceived–and I’ve always been different. At times it’s hard, especially living in a big city where you’re looking at everyone that’s owning the same thing as you. It’s not even about feeling exclusive anymore but, the arts have helped me be creative, it’s helped me stay grounded to who I am, and it’s never allowed me to change when it comes to choices for my body. That includes the tattoos I get, the clothes I buy, the styles I wear, and even the colours I pick. I think that those three cultures have really impacted the way that I live in my skin–both the good and the bad–but at the same time, I’m happy about it because those three things are things that can forever change no matter where I am, and it can always change with whoever I’m with.

“Although having psoriasis is a bummer, it’s created a new career path for me.” ARE THERE ANY CULTURAL VALUES THAT AFFECT HOW YOU TREAT YOUR SKIN?

When it comes to makeup, I tend to use more natural products that are more geared toward ailments. I do believe in apothecary and herbalism, which is why I make my essential line of products. I grew up with cocoa butter and aloe vera, and those two main ingredients helped me understand how plants can be utilized in different ways. I remember when I was younger, I’d break out at the back of my neck and my mom would put rub warm aloe vera on it. I would always hate the sliminess of it because it felt so gross, but now that I’m older, I appreciate it because, without it, my skin wouldn’t be able to tolerate some of the damage that it gets from the outside.

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One of the most cherishing lessons that I learned from my parents is how to take care of my skin because we didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have perfect skin.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

Myths

Clarifying and debunking some common myths and misconceptions about skin conditions.

ACNE IS CAUSED BY DIRTY SKIN.

Acne flare-ups cannot be traced to dirt or poor hygiene. This mistaken belief often leads to over-cleaning or scrubbing with soaps and abrasive scrubs or rough bristled cleansing brushes, which only increases the risk of creating dry, flaky, aggravated skin that also increases oil production in the pore. It's also the perfect recipe for skin that feels dry and tight underneath but is oily on top. In fact, washing too frequently or scrubbing too vigorously can irritate skin and make acne worse. Acne has nothing to do with skin being dirty, but it does have everything to do with clogged pores which is why a chemical exfoliant that contains salicylic acid is so vitally important.

ECZEMA CAN BE CURED.

Unlike getting over the chicken pox or the flu, eczema isn’t “cured” in the same way as other afflictions. It’s not all bad news though. When treating symptoms properly and avoiding triggers, eczema flare-ups can become so infrequent that it no longer causes problems in your life. Unfortunately, there’s no way to cure eczema, but it is possible to put it into remission. Your No. 1 tool? Moisturizer—especially in the winter months. It’s recommended to use a gentle body wash in the shower followed by a hydrating moisturizing cream. (Apply it again at another point in the day, too.) For severe cases, there are topical anti-inflammatory medications available over the counter or through a prescription.

PSORIASIS IS THE SAME THINGS AS ECZEMA.

Although they look similar and can be treated similarly, the mechanism of psoriasis is much different. Unlike eczema, psoriasis is related to the creation of too many new skin cells, too quickly. This myth is so common, in fact, that many people who have psoriasis have shared experiences of being misdiagnosed with eczema when their skin issues first appeared. It wasn’t until after failed treatments or a skin biopsy that they learned they had psoriasis and not eczema. Although the diseases are different, The American Academy of Dermatology reports that a person can have both diseases simultaneously. 60

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN ROSACEA IS CAUSED BY POOR HYGIENE

ment of blackheads. It is important not to overdo exfoliation otherwise you will end up irritating the skin and making things worse not better.

Rosacea is unrelated to hygiene and is in fact a vascular and inflammatory condition. Making this distinction is important, as too much cleansing and scrubbing with harsh products can actually worsen symptoms.

ECZEMA IS CONTAGIOUS

One of the most common concerns that exist in the lay public is that it is contagious. If you suffer from eczema, you may notice that friends or even family want to avoid you like the plague. They see a rash and wonder if it’s an infection. Luckily, eczema is not contagious. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t take precautions though. Bad eczema flare-ups can lead to infection which can be contagious, but you still can’t spread eczema to others.

ACNE IS CAUSED BY CHOCOLATE OR GREASY FOOD

If you’ve ever had a bad acne breakout, you’ve probably had a friend or family member suggest cutting oily, fatty foods out of your diet. While it’s absolutely true that eating healthy food is good for you and your overall well-being, your diet doesn’t have as much of an impact on acne as many people think. In fact, modern science shows that there’s no direct link between the specific food you eat and your risk of developing pimples. In general, eating oily, greasy foods is generally okay from an acne treatment perspective. Your body quickly breaks down the oil in food into an energy source, either using it to fuel your body or storing it as fat to burn later. This means that eating oily, fatty foods won’t necessarily make your skin oiler and increase your risk of dealing with acne breakouts. Greasy, fatty foods don’t seem to be acne triggers for most people but foods (especially sources of refined sugar) that cause a spike in the hormone insulin have been linked to increased incidences of acne—and chocolate is often found in sugar-laden foods. Although the science on this isn’t fully settled, there’s some evidence that sugar’s effect on insulin production could affect your risk of developing acne.

ROSACEA IS THE SAME AS ACNE

Subtype 2 rosacea, characterized by persistent facial redness with bumps and pimples, is often mistaken for acne. But while the two may look similar, acne has a different underlying cause and needs to be treated differently.

PSORIASIS IS JUST A SKIN CONDITION

Psoriasis is an autoimmune disorder that can affect the entire body. It is now considered a systemic—or bodywide—inflammatory condition because it’s linked to a higher risk of obesity, diabetes, high blood pressure, high cholesterol, heart attack, and stroke. People with psoriasis are at double the risk for depression. It boosts the risk for both depression and anxiety, according to the NPF. The more severe your psoriasis symptoms are, the more likely you are to suffer from depression. Psoriasis symptoms may trigger depression so severe that you also have double the risk of having suicidal thoughts. Emotional stress is a major trigger of psoriasis symptoms, so even without depression, do your best to manage stress and emotions with regular exercise, meditation, and plenty of support.

ONLY DARK-SKINNED PEOPLE GET VITILIGO. Vitiligo occurs in all people, regardless of race or ethnicity, however, it may be more noticeable in people with dark skin due to their higher rates of melanin.

ECZEMA WILL CLEAR UP ON ITS OWN

VITILIGO IS RELATED TO OTHER SKIN DISEASES SUCH AS SKIN CANCER, LEPROSY, AND ALBINISM.

Actually, treating it quickly is key to keeping eczema from becoming more inflamed and more problematic. More inflammation leads to more scratching and can lead to bacterial infection, which makes eczema worse. There are many treatment options available, from the medication mentioned earlier to lifestyle changes, such as avoiding heat and excessive sweat, steering clear of foods known to be triggers, and keeping skin moisturized. The key, though, is acting fast and treating the skin before the vicious itchinflammation-infection cycle begins.

Vitiligo is a completely separate condition and not related to skin cancer, leprosy or albinism. It is thought to be an autoimmune disorder in which the immune system attacks and kills cells that make skin color, called melanocytes (ma-LAN-o-sites). Though it may be more common in people with a family history of vitiligo, it can occur in anyone. The cause of the disorder remains unknown.

YOU CAN GET RID OF ACNE WITH A SCRUB

If only it were that easy! First, abrasive scrubs are harsh on skin, disrupting its healthy-looking, vital surface and defeating its ability to fight off acne. The harshness can also increase oil production, which we’re betting isn’t what you want. Acne isn’t caused by skin being dirty and therefore needing a "deep" clean. You can use a gentle washcloth with your water-soluble cleanser or a soft-bristled cleansing brush for a bit of extra cleansing, but it has to be gentle. Not being gentle will make your skin mad, and the reaction won’t be good. However, it is actually good for those with oily skin to gently exfoliate once a week, as it immediately removes the dead skin cells from the surface resulting in a brighter appearance, and in the longer term, reduce the develop61

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— The media used to heavily influence how I viewed my skin. With age, I’ve learned that skin conditions are completely normal and okay to have.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

But seeing people with perfect skin will always make me compare it to my own. 65

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

Heema Age: 22 years old Ethnicity: Indian

WHAT IS YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR SKIN?

I have a love-hate relationship with my skin. Sometimes It’s good, and sometimes it’s like “what just happened?” It’s an “I love you, but I hate you” feeling. However, I am more comfortable with my skin now than I was before, so I would say it’s more of a love relationship than hate. Before university, it was more hate because people would always point things out more. But once university started, it was kind of like “yeah, everyone has acne” so it didn’t matter as much. In high school, everyone was just so mean. People even used to say stuff about my arm hair, which isn’t even that visible. But in university, no one says anything because everyone just rolls out of bed, goes to school and doesn’t care.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR SELF-IMAGE?

This may sound a little strange, but I would say I feel like a potato. A potato’s skin has scars and it’s not smooth compared to the skin of an orange. The potato has its marks, bumps, dips, and imperfections. I don’t break out as much anymore, but I am left with scars. So, for me, I see my skin equivalent to a potato’s, but it doesn’t negatively affect me and how I view myself.

HAS YOUR SKIN CONDITION AFFECTED HOW YOU PERFORM TASKS OR SOCIALIZE WITH OTHERS?

When it comes to socializing, my acne does affect me. Before, I always felt like I didn’t fit in because when I go out, I don’t wear a full face of makeup. I just throw on whatever I feel like that day. When people with clear skin are talking to me, I feel like they are staring directly at my acne and it used to affect me–especially in social settings like the club, a party or just any outing. Now, I don’t pay attention to what the other person is looking at when they’re talking to me. I just focus on what they’re saying. It’s no longer that big of a deal, but it used to affect me a lot.

I have an aunt, that I’m not a big fan of. She would always mention things about my appearance. It started when I was about 14 years old. My aunt would point out that I have acne every time I saw her. During a family dinner–in front of everyone–she pointed out that I had very bad acne, and at that moment, I didn’t know how to react. I think if you’re going to point something out about a person–especially if it’s something obvious that they already know–it’s completely pointless. Socially, it was an awkward situation. For a 14-year-old, I think it was a bit traumatic because, at that age, you are sensitive and self-conscious about your appearance. You’re finding yourself; you’re hitting puberty, things are changing, and you’re going through stuff. Then you have this one person who is supposed to be your family and you think they would support you, but instead, they bring you down by pointing out your flaws. My aunt made it seem like there was something wrong with me, or that I was broken. From that day on, I didn’t go to her house for a while because she would always mention stuff about my acne or tell me things like “do this...do that...it will help your skin.” I never listened to her because she doesn’t know anything about my skin. To this day, she will point it out; even though I don’t have that much acne right now–it’s all scarring. Yes, I would break out here and there, but it’s not consistent or super bad. When my aunt brings up my acne or my appearance, it makes me feel somewhat insecure.

HAVE YOU SOUGHT OUT ANY SKIN TREATMENTS?

Before, I didn’t use any special acne products on my skin. I just used a basic cleanser and moisturizer on my face, and that was it. I preferred to let my acne do its thing. Then, in the first year of university–when everyone was continuously pointing out my acne–I was like, “Okay, let me try to treat it.” I chose to go on hormonal medication instead of taking an acne specific medication like Accutane because 68

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People need to stop putting themselves underneath a microscope and just understand that acne is a part of life.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN I just thought it might be a safer option. I wouldn’t say it was for me because I didn’t have an issue with my acne. It was always other people who had an issue with it. I basically did it because of my family. For some reason, appearance is a really big thing with Indian people. I feel like they care about how you look if you look a certain image and if you fit into the idea of an Indian woman. You either do, or you don’t. There’s no inbetween. My parents have a certain image of how I should look, and that image has to fit the [Indian] community. But I don’t fit the community, so it’s an issue for them. I have super short hair–that’s an issue. I’m not super skinny–it’s an issue. Acne and discoloration–an issue. It’s almost like they don’t want their child to be talked bad about, which I understand, but that’s literally what it comes down to.

going to happen regardless if you want it or not. But it’s hard to accept that because of social media. People need to stop putting themselves underneath a microscope and just understand that acne is a part of life. These things will happen, so forget about what the media says because they’re not always right.

HOW DOES YOUR CULTURE SHAPE THE WAY YOU VIEW YOURSELF AND SKIN?

My culture makes it seem like I’m a freaking outcast. As if I’m the rotten potato of the bunch. If you go to the temple and you have a bit of acne, the first grandma that sees you is going to point it out. There’s no way you can walk past that grandma without her saying anything. If someone says something–yeah, I know–but I don’t let it hit me. When I was younger–and when I say younger, I’m talking about 18 and under–I used to not want to go to the temple because I didn’t want people to DOES THE MEDIA HAVE AN INFLUENCE say anything about my skin or how it looks. ON YOUR IDEA OF PERFECT SKIN AND I eventually reached a point where I was just HOW YOU VIEW YOUR SKIN? like, “They’re not me. Who gives a shit?” If I don’t think the media has an impact on how I view my skin because I know the media has they’re going to say something, they’re going a norm for everyone. If you’re white, you have to say something. But they do make people– to be a certain image. If you’re this colour, you more specifically girls–feel like they need to have clear skin, or else they don’t belong in should look like that. The media is going to society. It’s like, if you don’t have clear skin, portray whatever they want in the way they want to. I also think it doesn’t impact my views that means you’ve sinned. I’m quite comfortbecause I’m not the type of person to always be able with my skin, despite what my culture and the community think. I don’t care what on social media. I’m not an influencer and people say to me anymore. It’s just my skin I don’t go out care about influencing others. I and it is what it is. I don’t use makeup to hide don’t feel the need to represent myself in a my acne because I don’t really care about certain way. I just want to be comfortable in what people think, as long as I’m comfortable my own skin. in it. Like, who cares, right? It’s not theirs, it's When I was younger, I used to believe that my skin. I needed to use acne spot treatments to help reduce and minimize the acne on my face because it was always being advertised. Those things never actually worked. As I got older, I realized that everyone’s skin is going to be different regardless. If a certain product works great for you, it might not work on others–and a lot of it just has to do with your hormones. Because of that, I just never really cared about taglines anymore. However, I do think it influences people into wanting to try new products because it’s being promoted everywhere, and most people want that clear skin. It’s similar to how everyone is “dropping their skincare routine” and stuff. The media and taglines used in advertisements make me mad sometimes, but not really because people should promote that it’s okay to have blemishes on your skin, but they also make it seem like you need to have clear skin. People are becoming obsessed with having clear skin, but no one is going to have perfect skin all the time. Even those with clear skin will breakout or get little bumps here and there. I feel like people need to remember that they shouldn’t be so hard on themselves if they have acne because you often can’t control it. It’s

“...it made it seem like there was something wrong with me, or that I was broken.”

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

I don’t really use makeup to hide my acne because I don’t care what people think, as long as I’m comfortable in it.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

Self-Care

Taking care of your skin shouldn't be difficult. While there are so many different ways to manage living with a skin condition, here is a list of general do's and don'ts to help you get started.

Do...

Don't...

BE GENTLE WITH YOUR SKIN.

SCRUB YOUR SKIN.

Use gentle products, such as those that are alcoholfree. Do not use products that irritate your skin, which may include astringents, toners and exfoliants. Dry, red skin makes acne appear worse.

To get rid of acne or dry skin, you may be tempted to scrub your skin clean. Don’t. Scrubbing can irritate your skin, causing your skin to flare.

PICK AND SCRATCH.

MOISTURIZE.

Picking at scabs or scratching the surface of your skin can cause tears or open wounds, where bacteria can enter. This can cause infections and slow the healing process of your skin.

After washing your face and body, be sure to apply a moisturizer. This skincare step is often overlooked, but it is a key element to keeping your skin soft and healthy.

TOUCH YOUR SKIN FREQUENTLY.

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER.

A facial massage can help relieve stress, improve elasticity, and provide a healthy glow, but stimulating the skin too much can also irritate sensitive skin and worsen acne, psoriasis, or eczema.

While topically water can hinder your skin, drinking 64 ounces of water daily is essential for a healthy complexion because it flushes out toxins and keeps your insides running efficiently.

FORGET TO CLEANSE.

RELAX AND DE-STRESS.

Whether you have sensitive, oily or dehydrated skin, your cleanser should be the first step in your routine to target your concerns. Choose a cleanser that doesn’t leave your skin feeling tight after washing. Also, avoid washing for that “squeaky-clean feel” because that means your skin’s natural oils are gone.

Stress increases hormones that make your skin oilier. Oil can cause skin problems like acne, rashes, and other irritations.

GET SOME SUN.

Sun is often recommended for those with eczema and psoriasis to help dry out patches and speed up healing. This is also the best way our body can produce Vitamin D, which helps the immune system and increases energy.

WEAR FRAGRANCES.

Harsh chemicals–like fragrances–can irritate the skin. If possible, use products that are formulated for “sensitive skin” to ensure there won’t be any irritating ingredients.

WEAR SUNSCREEN

FOLLOW TRENDS.

There is no such thing as a safe tan. Tan skin is damaged skin. Even 1 sunburn exponentially increases your risk of skin cancer, so avoid tanning beds and don’t forget your sunscreen, no matter what your natural skin complexion is.

Your skin is unique, so what works for others may not work for you. While following skin care trends may be tempting, they could be ineffective or harmful towards your skin.

CONNECT WITH OTHERS.

Remember, you aren’t experiencing this alone. There are a lot of support groups on social media so go ahead and connect with other with similar skin conditions.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

— Images of clear skin are a constant reminder of my flaws. No one “beautiful” is seen with acne and it makes me feel unattractive.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

If the media said having acne was beautiful, I think my perception of my skin would be different. 81

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

CREDITS

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

DEFINITIONS:

SELF-CARE:

American Academy of Dermatology Association (aad.org) Articles: “Diseases and Conditions: A to Z”, “Melasma”, “Psoriasis”, “Rosacea”, and “Vitiligo” Canadian Dermatology Association (dermatology.ca) Articles: “Skin Conditions”, “Acne”, "Eczema”, and “Psoriasis” Skinsight (skinsight.com) Articles: “Skin Conditions”, “Acne Vulgaris”, “Eczema (Atopic Dermatitis)”, “Keratosis Pilaris”, “Melasma”, “Milia”, “Psoriasis”, “Rosacea”, and “Vitiligo”

American Academy of Dermatology Association (aad.org) Articles: “Acne: Tips For Managing", “Psoriasis: Tips For Managing", and "Vitiligo: Tips For Managing" Center for Dermatology (centerfordermatology.net) Article: “Top 10 Dos And Don’ts Of Skincare" Eczema Honey Co. (eczemahoneyco.com) Article: “15 Eczema Relief Tips From the Pros” ELLE (elle.com) Article: “Skin Care Dos And Don'ts” Harper's Bazaar (harpersbazaar.com) Article: “#SkinSchool: The dos and don’ts of cleansing” Healthline (healthline.com) Article: “A Guide to Taking Care of Your Skin”

MYTHS & MISCONCEPTIONS:

Cosmopolitan UK (cosmopolitan.com/uk) Article: “14 acne myths you need to stop believing” Eczema Honey Co. (eczemahoneyco.com) Article: “Top 20 Myths About Eczema Debunked” Everyday Health (everydayhealth.com) Articles: “7 Common Myths About Eczema You Shouldn’t Believe”, and “7 Psoriasis Myths Debunked” Global News (globalnews.ca) Article: “Is eczema contagious? 6 common myths debunked” Healthline (healthline.com) Article: “7 Psoriasis Myths You Shouldn’t Believe” Hers (forhers.com) Article: “13 Common But Inaccurate Acne Myths Busted” National Eczema Association (nationaleczema.org) Article: “Eczema Fact vs. Eczema Fiction” National Rosacea Society (rosacea.org) Article: “Debunking The Top Rosacea Myths” Paula’s Choice (paulaschoice.com) Article: “Six Acne Myths” Pfizer (pfizer.com) Article: “Myths About Vitiligo"

CREATIVE DIRECTION: Cynthya Liang

PHOTOGRAPHY: Leah Chan

MODELS:

Alberto Espinoza Debi Facey Cynthya Liang Heema Patel Jaiden Dinham Rebecca Pyrah

EDITOR:

Cynthya Liang

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I have been working on this project for the past eight months. Countless hours have gone into researching, designing, organizing, and executing my vision. It wasn’t easy, but I’m so grateful to have had a team of supportive people by my side throughout this whole process. I appreciate each and everyone of you, no matter how big or small your contributions were. I especially want to thank my instructor, Daniel Drak, for guiding me through this entire process. To my interviewees, thank you for being brave and sharing your story. It takes a lot of courage and strength to open up about a topic that is very personal, intimate, and emotional. I’m so glad you were able to share your experience with me. You are all such amazing individuals and I applaud you for being so confident infront and behind the camera. My vision wouldn’t have come to life without your participation.

PERCEPTIONS OF SKIN

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