FAIT À LA MAIN
March 23 - April 24, 2019 65 FRONT ST W TORONTO, ON M5J 1E6
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FAIT À LA MAIN Made by Hand
Photo: Hermès
The exhibits explore the history and heritage of the house, which was founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermès, through a series of objects that highlight the quality and craftsmanship of their iconic products. “Fait À La Main” is designed and curated by Cynthya Liang, who worked with Hermès CEO Axel Dumas and International Artistic Director Pierre-Alexis Dumas. Together, they hand-picked a selection of objects and curios that are sourced from the personal collection of Emile Hermès and the house’s archive. The objects are complimented by the documentary-film “Hearts and Crafts” (2011), directed by Frédéric Laffont and Isabelle Dupuy-Chavanat. This film that takes the viewer behind-the-scenes to explore the legendary artistry of the luxury fashion house and centres on the artisans who painstakingly craft the timeless objects by hand. Hermès is presented through the skill of their métiers, focusing on three key aspects of the house: the construction of leather handbags, making of silk scarves and crafting of home objects.
Left: Space Shopping au Faubourg scarf 90, 100% silk twill with hand rolled edges, Made in France, 36" x 36" 3
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The Hermès Fashion House was established in Paris as a harness making shop in 1837 by Thierry Hermès (18011878). Hermès first established the family business as a harness shop in the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris. The shop served European noblemen, creating wrought bridles and harnesses for carriages. His clients were the stylish Parisian “beau monde” and European royalty including Napoléon III and his empress, Eugénie. It was in late 1879 when the line was expanded by Charles-Emile Hermès, Thierry’s son and successor. The expansion included the manufacturing of saddles and they opened a new location near the Palais de l’Elysee in Paris, France. It was in 1922 when the company introduced its first handbags. In 1937, Hermès opened its scarf (or carre) factory in Lyon. Robert Dumas-Hermès succeeded the leadership of Hermès in the 1950s and was iconic for introducing Hermès ties — which are still some of the most desirable ties in the world. Additionally, the duc-carriage-with-horse logo, bolduc (the famous ribbon!) and signature orange boxes were introduced in 1961. The Hermès horse-and-carriage logo was inspired by the art of Pierre-Alfred de Dreux. Jean-Louis Dumas, the son of Robert Dumas-Hermès, became chairman in 1978 and lead Hermes until 2006. During Jean-Louis’ reign, he expanded the fashion house into the home wares, 4
further expanded the efforts in silks, leather goods, and perfumes. Dumas helped change the image of Hermès to accommodate a younger, more modern consumer and increased the growth of Hermès. Despite a brief attempt at public ownership in the 1990s, the Hermès family is still a majority shareholder in the company and is currently six-generation run. The Hermès’ family and company rejects mass production, assembly lines, and mechanization. The vast majority of Hermès products are manufactured at production sites in France. Bags, luggage and small leather goods are produced by professional artisans at approximately 12 French middle-sized leather goods manufacturing facilities (“Ateliers Hermès”), with a strong emphasis on quality manufacturing. Hermes has claimed that most items are created from start to finish by one craftsman, which is supposed to be a guarantee of the quality and uniqueness of Hermes products. As of 2008, Hermès has 14 product divisions encompassing leather, scarves, ties, men’s wear, women’s fashion, perfume, watches, stationery, footwear, gloves, enamel, decorative arts, tableware, and jewelry. Today, Jean-Louis’s son Pierre-Alexis Dumas is the artistic director of Hermès. Under his direction, the brand has seen its biggest growth in decades.
Article: Yoogi's Closet | Photo: Cavalerie
HISTORY OF HERMÈS
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Inside an Hermès Atelier
Hermès bags are carefully crafted pieces of art. They have a steep price tag because they are made from premium materials and every stitch is placed with the utmost precision. The crafting process for each Hermès bag takes numerous hours (approx. 48 in total) since all bags are handcrafted. The bag makers who craft these bags are carefully screened and require years of high quality experience before even being considered for the job. Hermès has a reputation of hiring mostly artisans who have graduated from the École Grégoire-Ferrandi; a school that specializes in working with luxurious leathers.
CUTTING
Preparing the skin is the first step towards crafting a breathtaking bag. The leather or skin is first examined for any defects. All defects are marked with a white marker and are then removed. 6
This is a tedious process that can take a couple of hours to complete. Mosquito bites and wounds on the animal become apparent once the skin has been tanned, making this an incredibly important step in the process. Once the skin has been fully examined it gets cut, again using extreme caution. The amount of skin required depends on the size of the bag and depending on the type of skin, it can require skins from numerous animals. For instance, a lizard skin handbag requires four to five lizard skins for just one bag.
STITCHING
The skin is held together using a wooden clamp, while the artisan performs each stitch with precision. The amazing thing about the saddle stitch is that each stitch is created so that if one stitch were to come loose, the Stitching a Hermès bag requires a unique
Article: Bag Hunter | Photo: Park & Cube
CONSTRUCTION How Hermès Bags are Made
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process called “The Saddle Stitch”. This type of stitch is used since it doesn’t unravel when done properly. Since Hermès only hires proven expert artisans who have years of experience, the stitching is always done with complete perfection. The linen used for Hermès bags is waterproof, smooth to the touch and has rot prevention due to the beeswax coating. Most Hermès bags are created with same-color threads, but some of the rare bags will have white threads even if the bag is not in white. The skin is held together using a wooden clamp, while the artisan performs each stitch with precision. The amazing thing about the saddle stitch is that each stitch is created so that if one stitch were to come loose, the rest of the stitches would not be affected.
"THE ‘SECRET’ OF HERMÈS, IS NOT IN A MYSTERY BEESWAX OR A PARTICULAR STITCHING MACHINE, BUT THE MAGIC OF ATTENTION AND CARE BY SKILLED HANDS"
UNIFORMITY
Once the stitching process is complete, the artisan then taps the bag's seam with a hammer. This allows the seam to be less apparent. After tapping the seam with a hammer, the seam is then shaved, sanded and waxed. Ultimately, this provides a uniform look that makes it appear as though both leathers are the same.
THE HANDLE
Making the handle is a very tedious process. An artisan can take up to four hours to create the handle. The handle is made from the exact same type of
leather, but contains several layers of it. Most handles are made using 4 – 5 layers of leather. The artisan uses his/ her thigh to create the form of the handle and then places it on the bag with extreme precision and care.
HARDWARE
The hardware is then added to the bag. Unlike other bags, the hardware is actually attached using the unique Hermès process called “Pearling” rather than by using screws. They use this process because traditional screws can loosen with time; the pearling process keeps the hardware in place forever. Some artisans prefer placing the hardware before stitching the bag. Once the hardware has been added, a clear plastic film is placed over it in order to prevent the metal from getting scratched or damaged. This film often remains on the hardware until the bag is delivered to the person who purchases it; maintaining the appearance.
INSPECTION
Once a Hermès bag is completed, the inspection process is very thorough. A workshop inspector will go over every little detail of the bag in order to ensure that it’s up to Hermès standards. If the bag passes the initial inspection, it gets stamped. The stamp allows Hermès to identify the artisan who made the bag, the workshop where it was created and the year. From there, the bag gets sent to the Hermès logistics department in the town of Bobigny. This is where the final inspection will occur. The inspection process in Bobigny is just as thorough and goes over every little detail. If the bag passes this final inspection, it gets packed in the signature orange box and sent out to one of the Hermès boutiques around the world. If any imperfect bags are found, they are normally destroyed. Hermès does not risk having an imperfect bag seen on the streets. 7
FAIT À LA MAIN
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Hermès Birkin, Ostrich Leather, Orange with Gold Hardware
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LEATHER GUIDE 10 most popular handbag leathers Hermès is known for, among other things, its use of fine and exotic leathers. They offer more variety than any other major bag brand on the planet. Figuring out what all the names mean, how those leathers differ and which one might be the best for you can be a daunting and intimidating task for even those moderately well-versed in the Hermès world.
ALLIGATOR
Alligator is delicate and very expensive. Hermès uses alligators farmed in Florida, and a matte bag usually costs a bit more than a shiny one, although alligator usually costs less than crocodile ones overall.
BOX CALF
Box calf is smooth and glossy, and although it is susceptible to scratches, they can be buffed into the leather’s texture over time. Often found in vintage bags and neutral colors, but still actively produced today. Leave it at home on rainy days.
Article: Purse Blog | Photo: Bags of Luxury
CLEMENCE
EPSOM
Popular stamped-grain leather that is lightweight, durable and easily cared for. Not particularly soft.
FJORD
Soft, heavy, flat-grained matte cowhide which is very durable, scratch-resistant and water-resistant. From a distance, the leather often looks like it has vertical veins running through it.
LIZARD
Lizard is an exotic leather made from the hides of African water monitors. The brand’s most delicate leather and prone to drying out if it is not cared for properly. The scales add up to a glossy finish; because of the size of the animal, lizard is most commonly found in accessories and small bags.
OSTRICH
Ostrich leather is the most durable exotic Hermès uses and is water-resistant, but will darken over time with exposure to skin oils.
Clemence, one of Hermès’s most popular leathers, is made from the hides of baby bulls. It’s matte, flat-grained, soft and heavy, which gives otherwise structured bags a slouchier and more casual look.
SWIFT
CROCODILE
TOGO
Niloticus crocodiles come from the Nile region of Zimbabwe. As with other exotics, matte Nilo is more expensive than its shiny counterpart. Less expensive than Porosus Crocodile. In general, crocodile is somewhat durable, but it should be kept away from water to prevent water spots that do not fade.
Called Gulliver in bags manufactured before 1999. Swift is soft and finegrained, and it picks up bright dyes particularly well. Scratches easily, but most can be rubbed out.
Togo is the most popular leather for Birkins. It’s fine-grained, scratch-resistant baby calfskin that is relatively lightweight but still holds shape.
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Le Grand Prix du Faubourg scarf 90, 100% silk twill with hand rolled edges, Designed by Ugo Gattoni, 35" x 36"
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“THE HERMÈS SCARF IS THE FANTASY PART OF HERMÈS… WITH THE SCARF, YOU CAN DO ALMOST ANYTHING.”
Right: Two artist stations at the Hermès Carré Club in New York 12
Artcile: Tradesy | Photo: Zach Hilty
- BALI BARRET
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SILK KNOTS Hermès Scarves: A History artisans all over the world, including Mali, Pakistan and Brazil. Hermès hires talented artists to hand-design each scarf individually. Historically, designs have gone from traditional equestrian motifs to whimsical illustrations and everything in between. The scarves are so beautifully-designed that they are often framed and used as artwork on a wall. Once the design is complete, it is brought to a factory in France, where it is individually screen-printed with designs and patterns. On average, each scarf has 27 distinct colors. The process – because it is hand-silkscreened – can take up to six months to do in completion. It takes roughly 750 hours alone to engrave the screens for printing (one screen per color). An Hermes scarf is made from the silk of 250 mulberry moth cocoons and the hems are hand-rolled and hand-stitched. This is, in fact, a great way to know that your scarf is authentic. With the exception of some limited edition pieces, the scar ves come in four main sizes: 22” x 22”, 28” x 28”, 36" x 36" and the largest size: 55” x 55”. They are made into perfect squares.
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The scarf made its debut in 1937, exactly 100 years after Hermès was founded. The design of the very first scarf was based on a woodblock drawing by Robert Dumas, a member of the Hermès family. It was made with imported Chinese silk which made the scarf twice as strong than any of the scarves available at the time and, thus, became an immediate hit. Since 1937, Hermès has produced over two thousand silk scarves, all produced in an Hermès factory near Lyon, France. Given that Hermès always catered to the very rich, the scarf was quickly adopted by royalty and celebrities. It was (and still is) worn as a headscarf by Queen Elizabeth. Audrey Hepburn wore it in countless iconic photos and Grace Kelly famously used it as a sling for her broken arm. But, the Hermès scarf has an allure that goes beyond celebrity. One scarf takes a full 18 months to complete, making it one of the most meticulously-crafted accessories in the world. For years, Hermès has partnered with the Tuareg tribesman of the Sahara and have used their traditional motifs in Hermès products. In fact, Hermès has a strong history of supporting
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Hermès tableware, A Walk in the Garden Collection 14
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Article: Cheryl Chan | Photo: Phillipe Lacombe
THROUGH THE WALLS Explore the richness of the home universe. The Hermès home universe has been around since the 1920s and The Art of Living is currently under the direction of co-deputy artistic directors Charlotte Macaux Perelman and Alexis Fabry, who have both been with the maison since 2014 and helm the home universe, while collaborating with design industry heavyweights to create home objects and furniture that are bold but still fall within the definition of an Hermès designed piece—items that balance restraint with lightness, tradition and innovation, while withstanding the test of time. The objects all utilise key materials that are part of the Hermès DNA. Materials such as leather, silk, light maplewood, lacquer and wicker that are all prevalent in the maison’s other departments, enforce the brand identity throughout, showing that while the materials can be used in one way for fashion accessories, they too can be harnessed in another manner for a home object. Take leather, for example. Once used by the maison to dress horses, it is used to dress home objects. Unlike how Hermès leather accessories complement an outfit, leather is used to structure the home objects instead of being mere decoration. As a lid, it completes a box. As a strap, it shapes a vase or holds a case shut. As a bridle, it is utilised as an indoor harness designed to hold, hang or hook.
As sheathing, it serves as juxtaposition and adds a layer of warmth and softness to a serving trolley made of wickerwork and wood. Within this vast home universe, it is about the little things as well. Think small maplewood boxes with sheets of leather that work as cardholders, letter racks and any knick-knacks one
"EVERY OBJECT IS A PRODUCT OF ITS ERA, BUT STAYS CLEAR OF ALL FASHIONS. IT MUST WITHSTAND THE TEST OF TIME." might have in the office or at home. Vibrant hand-painted lacquer boxes by Italian illustrator Gianpaolo Pagni work as great organisational tools that help hide items and act as decorative pieces any coffee table would be proud to host. Other furnishings include colourful table and dinnerware featuring micro-motifs of Hermès tie designer Philippe Mouquet, cashmere throws in the house colours, and wallpaper patterns with graphic maze-like designs for adults, and colourful horses for the little ones.
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La Quincaillerie, Hermès window display in Paris
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REFERENCES Hermès. (n.d.). Space Shopping Au Faubourg 90 (bleu, orange, vert). Photograph. Retrieved from https:// www.hermes.com/us/en/product/ space-shopping-au-faubourg-scarf-90H003136Sv01/.
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Lo, D. (2011, September 02). Hermes Documentary "Hearts and Crafts" Will Premiere on the Sundance Channel September 10th. Retrieved from https://www.racked. com/2011/9/2/7752489/hermesdocumentary-hearts-and-crafts-willpremiere-on-the-sundance.
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Hermes Information Guide. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.yoogiscloset. com/hermes/guide.
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Cavalerie. (n.d.). Hermes Boxes. Photograph. Retrieved from http://cavalerie.com/gallery/hermes-boxes/.
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Gattoni, U. (n.d.). Le Grand Prix du Faubourg. Digital Art. Retrieved from https://agentpekka.com/artist/ ugo-gattoni/le-grand-prix-du-faubourg/.
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Hermès Scarves: A History. (2016, October 31). Retrieved from https://www. tradesy.com/blog/hermes-scarves-a-history. Hilty, Z. (2018, September 13). Two artist stations. Photograph. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/article/ hermes-silk-scarf-carre-club-new-york.
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Lacombe, P. (n.d.). HERMES. Photograph. Retrieved from http://www. philippelacombe.com/photography-hermes-d-902.html.
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Chan, C. (2017, September 27). Explore The World Of Hermès At The Upcoming 'Through The Walls' Exhibition. Retrieved from https://sg.asiatatler.com/ life/hermes-through-the-walls-exhibition.
Park and Cube. (2012, April 28). Hermès Atelier Sacs. Photograph. Retrieved from http://www.parkandcube.com/ hermes-atelier-sacs/. How Hermès Bags are Made. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://baghunter.com/ blogs/news/how-hermes-birkin-kellybags-are-made.
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Hermès. (n.d.). The Horsawards 90 (blanc/orange/bleu). Photograph. Retrieved from https://www.hermes.com/ us/en/product/the-horsawards-scarf90-H003079Sv06/.
Bags of Luxury. (n.d.). Photograph. https://www.bagsofluxury.com/ guides/avoid-fake-hermes-scam/.
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The Ultimate Guide to Hermès Leathers. (2015, September 28). Retrieved from https://www.purseblog.com/hermes/leather-swatch-guide. 18
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Profit, A. (2018, February 06). La Quincaillerie de Hermès - Workshop Bei "Petit H". Photograph. Retrieved from https://www.horstson.de/laquincaillerie-de-hermes-workshop-beipetit-h/2018/02/.
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Right: The Horsawards scarf 90, 100% silk twill with hand rolled edges, Designed by Elias Kafouros, 36" x 36"
Photo: Hermès
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#MADEBYHERMES Cynthya Liang, Section 01
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