The Daily Coterie

The

Thursday, February 23, 2012

rie Cote + So le com mer ce

Huge

trend!

black &white

21 - 23 February 2012 Javits Center

BRASIL FASHION Coterie Designers: Carlos Miele # Level 3, Hall AB - 9200 Cecilia Prado # Level 3, Hall 3AB - 9643 Patricia Bonaldi # Level 1, Hall ABC - 814 Serpui Marie # Level 3, Hall ABC - 10023

Sole Commerce Designers: Amazonas Sandals # Level 1, Hall 1D - 1114 Ipanema # Level 1, Hall 1D - 1112 Luiza Barcelos # Level 1, Hall 1D - 2000 Schutz # Level 1, Hall 1D - 1900 Werner by Sergio Zelcer # Level 1, Hall 1D - 1315

www.abest.com.br

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www.brazilianfootwear.com

ABEST - The Brazilian Association Of Fashion Designers commercial@abest.com.br | www.abest.com.br phone + 55 11 3256 1655 | fax 55 11 3255 9053 ABICALÇADOS - Brazilian Footwear Industries Association bf@brazilianfootwear.com.br | www.brazilianfootwear.com phone +55 51 3594 7011 | fax: +55 51 3594 8011 APEX-Brasil – Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency www.apexbrasil.com.br phone: +55 61 3426 0202 | fax: +55 61 3426 0263

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06/02/12 10:45

GETTIN’ IT Daily!

your daily dose

SHOWROOM SHOWCASE!

With Glamhouse sales manager Lee Lenox Who do you rep?

At Coterie, we’re showing Low Luv by Erin Wasson, House of Harlow 1960 by Nicole Richie, Belle Noel by Kim Kardashian, and Rachel Leigh.

Have you ever had all these women in the same room?

Not yet! I’m very lucky with all my clients, but I spend the most time with Nicole [Richie]. We do dinners at Sunset Tower Hotel and play dress up.

How glamorous are you?

The jacket I’m wearing is as glamorous as it gets.

It’s a Balmain splurge!

SEE IT ALL AT BOOTH 8811!

With Desiree Gruber of Theodora & Callum

HEARD

What’s new?

We aim to figure out what people have been loving about the line and take that to the next level.

The feeling is very international.

What’s your geographic inspiration?

The islands of Turkey and the Greek cays.

Where have you traveled recently?

I was in the Bahamas and Mexico over the weekend—and I lived in my Theodora & Callum! I only wore white, black, and navy.

The rest was done with scarves.

You have a big celeb following!

It’s a case of me telling two friends, and so on. Blaine Trump and I have discussed different ways to wear the caftan. Sarah Brown, the Prime Minister’s wife, wore it in Davos recently. Reese Witherspoon wore one of our scarves, and it sold out on our site in two hours!

DON’T MISS IT AT BOOTH 7426!

“Joy is the biggest movie buff! One of our childhood friends, Brit Marling, is an up-andcomer in Hollywood. Joy’s sending her dresses and flying out for the Oscars!”—Cara Waltrip, director of sales, Joy Cioci, Booth 8508.

OPRAH MOMENT

With Jia designer Jia Li Oprah’s a big fan!

I was featured in the magazine’s November issue. If I were dressing Oprah, I’d choose my reversible cape vest.

What about Gayle?

She discovered us in the O magazine fashion closet. She actually just ordered a reversible dress from Spring 2012 for her daughter!

What other magazines would you love to be featured in?

Real Simple! They’re about living efficiently, and that’s what my collection is all about.

DROP BY BOOTH 9023!

!

ES RUNWAY MEMORI With Jacqueline Then

GETTING TO KNOW… Misha Nonoo What’s your background?

I was born in Bahrain and moved to London upon entering school as a young child. I continued my undergraduate studies in Paris where I lived for three years.

When did you launch your eponymous collection?

I moved to the United States in 2008, where I began my fashion career in NYC’s Garment

SHOP TALK!

District. I launched my first independent collection in 2010, supporting Made in Manhattan production. Since launching my label, my collection has been sponsored by Milk Studios during NYC’s Fashion Week.

What’s your Fall 2012 inspiration?

The regal presence and sophistication of cinema legend Anouk Aimee. I am forever captivated by her presence and timeless beauty.

What’s new this season?

This season began on a very positive note. I just won Fashion Group International’s Rising Star Award, which certainly helped with getting the luxury retailers in to see the collection. This season will mark the first time I am taking my collection to Paris to show at the Hotel Lotti from March 1st through the 5th.

CHECK IT OUT AT BOOTH 7125!

ON THE COVER:

What’s your Fall inspiration?

The feeling of belief. The white pieces represent belief in God, the red section is belief in love, and the black items are belief in the future.

Who’s your core customer?

Young and body-conscious. She goes out, and everyone knows her.

What was your first show like?

As soon as the model walked out, I started crying like crazy.

OGLE HER DRESSES AT BOOTH 7044!

Italy’s Best Kept Secret: Angela Caputi Giuggiù, Booth 6732

ELIzABETH AND JAMES FALL 2012 PHOTOS COURTESY ELIzABETH AND JAMES. THIS PAGE: PHOTOS BY RANDI ALEGRE AND STEFANIA CURTO; MISHA NONOO COURTESY MISHA NONOOY

FRENCH CHIC! EQUESTRIAN CHIC!

See Cecilia Prado’s bags at booth 9643

With AJ Majumdar, Däv’s VP of sales and merchandising How did Däv start?

Our owners Dave and Kerri Sengstaken are horseback riders in California. They were the distributors for Havaianas in the US for the last 10 years. They launched Däv because they felt that the equestrian lifestyle was lacking affordable, fashionable footwear in the water resistant category.

What’s a top seller?

We launched foldable rain boots for Fall 2011. They’re a perfect travel item, and they never lose their shape!

What’s new for Fall 2012?

We relaunched our rain boots for kids! Suri Cruise is an avid fan. We’re hoping Gwyneth [Paltrow] and Gwen [Stefani] will buy. I need to see Apple [Martin] wearing Däv!

DROP BY SOLE BOOTH 2520!

BRAZIL’S BEST! With Rafaela Castro Neves, President, Showroom 212 What is the Cecilia Prado brand known for?

Knits! But we just launched swimwear and beach coverups in Miami this July.

What’s your biggest coup this season?

Cecilia Prado was just featured in Sports Illustrated with a custom bathing suit, but we’re still small and humble. Cecilia is a 28-year-old designer from Brazil. She can knit, but she can’t samba!

What’s next?

We just came out with a line of makeup bags and in January 2013, we’re coming out with a home collection full of pillows, throws, lamp shade covers…anything you can knit!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. c O m

your daily dose MUSE ALERT! With Monica Botkier, designer, Botkier Where haven’t you taken your Botkier?

The Himalayas!

What do you keep in yours?

My Oliver Peoples sunglasses, cell phone, and anything else a mother of three would have in her bag!

What’s exciting about your new collection?

We’ve broadened our price point, so we’re working with new stores and consumers. In terms of a specific bag, the Valentina series is most exciting. Red colorways have already been successful for us, and incorporating metallics has been great as well.

Who are your muses of the moment?

Lou Doillon and Charlotte Gainsbourg—street sophisticates.

What’s the most surprising element in your bags?

Consumers sometimes don’t realize you can attach your keys to the keychain inside the bag, so you’ll never lose them!

SEE IT ALL AT BOOTH 10009!

VOGUEING!

With Erol Akcay, Axara’s executive manager

What’s Axara?

We’re a French brand made entirely in France with the chicest fabrics. We distribute in seven countries from Russia to Asia.

What do the Russians buy compared to customers in Asia?

We’re more popular during the winter in Russia. They like more bling-y items. Selling in other countries is a study in history!

DON’T MISS IT AT BOOTH 9243!

EVOLUTION!

With Ellen Zornberg, sales director, Silk Culture How has Silk Culture evolved this season?

We’ve become a full collection, adding in a lot of new coats and toppers, shorter tunics, wide-leg chiffon pants, fur vests, and great leather jackets.

It looks like a new brand!

We’ve worked really hard to reinvent the concept. Before it was all about silk, pattern, and chiffon.

We’ve broadened the silhouettes and textures; that’s really what stores are looking for. It’s a little younger and more fashion-forward, with a European look.

What’s something we may not know about Silk Culture?

We produce all the clothing for Eileen Fisher.

CHECK IT OUT AT BOOTH 5910!

With Firuze Hariri, founder and president, Beluva What’s new?

We’re offering more two-tone shirts this season!

What shirt would you choose for Anna Wintour?

This blue shirt would be amazing, because she can dress it up and reverse it or wear it with jeans during the day.

Very functional!

DROP BY BOOTH 5637!

PHOTOS BY RANDI ALEGRE AND STEFANIA CURTO

Best BOOTHS With inventive motifs and catchy displays, you've outdone yourselves, exhibitors!

Festive & Fun

Ella Moss

03 BOOTH 44

Clean & Organized

e Free Peopl

21 BOOTH 38

High-Tech Modern

ns Hudson Jea

European Chic

G-Star Raw 06 BOOTH 38

01 BOOTH 32

Sweet & Fruity

Desigual TH 3220 BtO hO e da i ly c o t e r i e

Denim Sanctuary + s o l e • d a i l y f r o n t r o w. c o m

AG Adriano Goldschmied george maier (6); radhika chalasani

s t e fa n i a c u r t o (4) ; r a n d i a l e g r e ( 2)

01 BOOTH 30

Trim: 10.75” x 13.5”

BOOTH 5737 B A B E T T E S F. C O M

Haute List

Coterie

Who’s

shoW NG

Do you know your Coterie + Sole Commerce neighbors? Stop by and visit!

Butter by Nadia

Emerson

What’s your Fall inspiration?

I typically don’t limit myself to a particular inspiration. I leave myself open to absorb everything I’m attracted to in a moment, and then analyze it until I see a pattern develop in the chaos.

What are you obsessed with lately?

Sherbet colors and chunky vintage lucite jewelry.

What are you over?

Boring black winter coats.

What’s new this season?

We are pencil skirt-crazed!

What’s one thing we may not know about Butter by Nadia?

We have an imaginary blog, and we compost.

Every Friday we take our food waste to the Red Hook farm.

What’s next for the brand?

We are launching BBN BRIDAL in March, which will be available exclusively on our website Shopbutterby nadia.com.

What’s your Fall inspiration?

Women changing their everyday ‘roles’ and going into the work force and army corps during WWII, Hollywood glamour, and classic Gil Elvgren pinups.

What are you obsessed with lately?

Emerson’s Fall 2012 campaign with Leigh Lezark!

What are you over?

Flared denim. What can I say?

I love my skinnies.

What’s your craziest fashion moment to date?

Meeting Karl Lagerfeld after the Chanel show in Paris.

He signed a necklace for me!

What’s new this season?

I took classic 1940s silhouettes and made them new again by incorporating Emerson’s asymmetrical hemlines and specialty fabrics. Think pinup meets Rosie the Riveter.

How are you handling raw material markups?

I choose all of my fabrics in Paris at Première Vision, and I work with amazing mills in Europe.

What’s next for the brand?

I plan on making Emerson a household name. Go big, or go home!

Name: Nadia Tarr Title: Designer, Proprietor Booth: 8910, Level 3

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i ly. c o m

Name: Jackie Fraser-Swan Title: Designer Booth: 8305, Level 3

aLL PHoToS: courTeSy oF THe DeSigNerS

Coterie

Haute List

Emmelle Designs Name: Mi Jong Lee Title: Designer, Owner Booth: 5727, Level 1 What’s your Fall inspiration?

Stained-glass windows.

What are you obsessed with lately?

Downton Abbey.

What are you over?

Size 2!

What attention-grabbing booth decor has worked the best for you at Coterie?

The Ikebana floral arrangements—they bring a Zen-like feeling to the booth.

What’s your sagest business advice to emerging fashion brands?

Know your niche.

What’s new this season?

Clean, geometric shapes.

What’s next for the brand?

We’re launching a national advertising campaign in The New York Times.

Clara Kasavina Name: Clara Kasavina Title: Designer, President Booth: 9740, Level 3 What’s your Fall inspiration?

Russian ballet and Fabergé.

What are you obsessed with lately?

Neon python colors and marquiseshaped crystals.

What’s your craziest fashion moment to date?

In 2011, we won the Independent Handbag Designer Award for “InStyle Red Carpet Ready Evening Bag.” After 30 years of hard work, it’s so rewarding to be recognized by the industry.

What’s new this season?

Folded clutches with intricate metal details and tassel ornamentation.

We’ll also be showing embossed

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i ly. c o m

Ronen Chen Name: Ronen Chen Title: Designer, President Booth: 5801, Level 1 What’s your Fall inspiration?

Lots of ingredients which seem opposed, but somehow live together in harmony: European forests in the autumn, cloudy skies, urban scenery, and concrete landscapes.

What’s your craziest fashion moment to date?

I was cleaning out my cupboard, and I found photos from my graduation collection 20 years ago. I discovered a jacket I had designed that was almost identical to the one I just designed. At least my handwriting is consistent!

What’s new this season?

Longer silhouettes and an explosion of color: brick, teal, mustard, burgundy, green, and purple.

What’s your personal design mantra?

The only man I design for is me!

What’s one thing we might not know about Ronen Chen?

My name might be Chen, but I’m actually not Chinese.

What’s next for the brand?

It’s time to go online!

leathers, pythons, and tulle fabric in blues, blushes, greys, and red.

What should the fashion industry do differently?

We should have a separate trade show for each market.

What’s one thing we may not know about Clara Kasavina?

All our silk linings are handsewn, and we’re on Swarovski’s gold list of vendors.

What’s next for the brand?

Get ready for a new and improved website and a Clara Kasavina blog!

aLL PhOTOs: COuRTesy OF The DesigNeRs

Coterie

Haute List

Seasonal Whispers Name: Esther Lixenberg and Yafit Goldfarb Title: Designers Booth: 4847, Level 1 What’s your Fall inspiration?

We love deep, dark reds and warm, tawny tones. They add a richness and look amazing with just about everything.

What are you obsessed with lately?

Lana Del Rey. We love the glamour of old Hollywood!

What are you over?

We’re over big shoulders and the whole androgynous look.

What’s your trademark?

Our bracelets have become an obsession. They come in sets of three or six and are super light. You can stack 100 in any color or style, and they all look good together.

What attention-grabbing booth decor has worked the best for you at Coterie?

We strive to create a warm, comfortable environment that is pleasing, with lots of organized seating and tables for writing orders. We use wood panels and tables to make it feel like you are entering a personal space.

What’s your sagest business advice to other brands?

Wear many hats and master every role. You’ll save money, and you’ll learn the most important aspects of each job. Then as you grow, you will have a better idea of the skills you need for each position.

What’s your craziest fashion moment to date?

We were having lunch at Bar Pitti across from Kanye West. We said hello and gave him a necklace. He gave us the number of his manager and asked us to call him. It was a great introduction!

What’s new this season?

For Spring 2012, we’re obsessed with the colors of the ocean and the purity of water. We used a lot of Swarovski crystals in opal, baby blue, and deep sea shades. Some of the pendants even look like sand dollars and sea anemones!

What’s one thing we may not know about Seasonal Whispers?

The jewelry is all handmade and hand cast in New York.

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i ly. c o m

Amy Matto Name: Amy Matto Title: Owner, Designer Booth: 7946, Level 3 What’s your Fall inspiration?

I started by looking at old photos of my mother from the early sixties.

Specifically, 1964 and ‘65, when women would go to the fabulous supper clubs and wear dresses.

What are you obsessed with?

I’m a big proponent of producing in the U.S. We manufacture entirely in New York City!

What’s your trademark?

We have the best customer service in the fashion industry.

Which red carpet regulars dress in Amy Matto?

Everyone from Halle Berry and Cindy Crawford to Sharon Stone and Kelly Rutherford.

What’s one thing we may not know about Amy Matto?

In most cases, we can do same day shipping!

ALL phOTOS: COurTESY OF ThE DESiGNErS

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BOOTH 9023 Each of our designs is reversible, convertible, and meant to be worn multiple ways.

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S h o w i n g a t C O T E R I E J AV I T S C E N T E R - B O O T H 5 8 0 1 RONEN CHEN HEAD OFFICE: NY + North East Sue Lang 207 3639156

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West Coast Renee Cohen 800 5373633

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South East

Ambrosia & Co 404 5211863 Mid West Julie Kipta 219 7621442 South West Janice Taylor 214 7608300 Canada DBA Apparel Group 514 3891402

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one to watch

Levi’s spring 2012

levi’s hit MAChiNe

How many creative directors earned their very own Grammy and kicked it with The Rolling Stones?

Len Peltier, for one. Five years ago, Levi’s VP of creative direction decamped from the music biz to helm the iconic American lifestyle brand, and February 15 marked its inaugural stroll down the catwalk.

Can’t wait for the playlist! BY MARIA DENARDO

seVen tHinGs to KnoW about Len! 1. I’m the dunce at the end of Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit” video.

2. Several years ago, I broke my neck and spent six months in a halo brace.

3. Wearing it, I went white water rafting.

4. As a kid, I wore husky jeans.

5. I went to the Afar region of Ethiopia two years in a row to shoot a documentary about water issues.

6. I’m trying to be a weekday vegan.

7. I hate questionnaires!

How did you win a Grammy?

I started my career in advertising as the associate creative director of A&M Records, then I ended up at Virgin Records as creative director for 10 years. I was nominated twice for a Grammy and won once for a Suzanne Vega album package.

At 26 years old, I was working with everyone from Lenny Kravitz to Janet Jackson and The Rolling Stones. I directed commercials as well, and I eventually left to pursue that full-time.

How did you land at Levi’s?

I got a call from a friend of mine at Levi’s to see if I’d like to freelance. I’ve always been a Levi’s fan and worn 501s since I can remember. I was obsessed with the Levi’s commercials.

As a commercial director, it was the ultimate get. Levi’s is one of those rare brands where you can do fashion, film, and music within one company.

What do Virgin Records and Levi’s have in common?

Imaging a product or brand and keeping it on target is almost identical to guiding the career and image of an artist!

How has the Levi’s aesthetic developed under your leadership?

It’s a broad, democratic brand, so the trick is to find a way to fit everything under an umbrella without watering anything down. Everything should be consistent, from our work wear to our more fashion pieces.

Levi’s Fall 2012 inspiration

check out Levi’s made & crafted at booth 2901, LeVeL 1

Why has the brand never shown its core collection at Fashion Week until now?

In 2007, we showed a capsule collection with Damien Hirst.

But this is our first cohesive global line we’re putting out in the Go Forth initiative, so we thought it was an appropriate time. We had an open house, a runway show, and a gallery-like setting to display installation-based stories about our product.

What’s the new direction of Levi’s?

There’s a shift towards a more refined, dressed-up aesthetic that’s more tailored for men and feminine for women. It’s definitely not the grungy denim look that people might expect. For women, we’re offering dresses and a skinny bootcut in the Curve ID line. For men, there’s a lot of color in nondenim. We’re also re-launching STA-Prest, a line we created in the sixties, and deepening our Commuter series by mixing sportswear and heritage for a more fashion-forward look.

What’s your greatest achievement at Levi’s so far?

Launching our global campaign, Go Forth, was a breakthrough for the brand.

What song would best describe the brand today?

The music at our last editor event really captured the Levi’s spirit. We brought in a group of teenage cellists that I ran into one night in San Francisco, who played everything from Bach to Lady Gaga. These 19-year-olds, who were trained at the conservatory, were playing pop music through a refined, classical lens—that’s what Levi’s is about right now.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

a s t R i d s taW i a R z /G e t t y i m a G e s ( p e i t i e R ) ; c o u R t e s y L e V i ’ s ( 4 )

Chic

Dish

Cooking lessons with niCole You’ve heard scrumptious tales of her white truffle din-dins and no doubt dipped a skewer or two at her annual Hamptons fry-a-thon. This season, Nicole Miller (booth 9400) is kicking it up a notch with her latest culinary adventure: cooking classes in her Tribeca penthouse. Are you on the guest list?

BY MARIA DENARDO PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Who wants to be my wicked risotto stirrer?

NICOLE’S GUEST LIST! Mia Moretti Logan Horne Brian Mazza Tinsley Mortimer Rob Younkers Joe Zee Sara Ziff

—Nicole Miller

Where did you learn to cook?

My mother was French, and she loved to cook.

When I was younger, she would always trick me by saying, ‘Oh, I’ll let you make the bread today!’ like it was a treat. I’d fall for it every time.

How did your in-home cooking classes begin?

We hosted our first class with a guest chef and a group of bloggers. It just evolved from there. We might do more in the future in different cities, such as Nashville and LA. How do you manage the guest list?

I always try to get people from different fields and different areas. It’s important to seat everyone by one person they know and one person they don’t.

Do you have a waiting list?

There are already people begging to come.

What wine is best served at a cooking class?

It’s really weird, but sometimes people don’t drink a lot at these classes. Since I’m serving risotto, I decided to have a nice Pinot Grigio.

What’s your greatest culinary achievement?

Something involving egg whites. You can always pat yourself on the back when a cheese soufflé comes out right.

What was the last thing you burned?

Toast.

Are you more like Julia Child or Rachael Ray? Neither. They’re real chefs. I’m like the hobby chef.

But definitely not Rachael Ray. That EVOO thing

I won’t double dip.

—TiNsley MorTiMer

makes me crazy.

What would be your signature catch phrase?

Time to add a little more salt!

Are you a Food Network girl?

I like to watch Iron Chef. I was on the show as a judge, so I have particular interest.

Would you ever consider a food pop-up?

That would be fun. Maybe we’d call it Nic’s Nacks.

I actually have the structure for an entertaining book, but it just never got finished.

What dish would best describe your designs?

Black squid risotto, since I wear a lot of black.

Any kitchen tips?

Risotto is best when you cook it in small portions.

Who would you challenge in a cook-off?

Does anyone in fashion cook? People in the industry are usually scared of food. They’re always on a diet.

What’s your most memorable dinner party?

One of my favorites was the Frida Kahlo-themed dinner party with paper flowers and Mexican flags.

Jimmy and Jane Buffett came along with Debbie Bancroft, Eric Fischl, and all my artist friends.

Are there any topics that should be off the table?

Once I went to a dinner where the host wanted every guest to speak about politics before we had appetizers. And I guess you can’t start talking about who’s sleeping with who, right? Or maybe you can!

How many cookbooks do you have?

At least 50 here in the city, but I have as many, if

I’m the meat maker!

—Joe zee

not more, in the Hamptons. I love to collect the Junior League editions, and I even have The White Trash Cookbook.

Who will need an extra hand tonight?

Maybe Sara Ziff. She’s a model, but she’s also an intellectual—she’s been going to Columbia, so she’s probably too busy to cook.

Is there anything you won’t eat?

1,000-year-old Chinese eggs.

What are your must-haves in the kitchen?

Two sinks and two stoves.

And your refrigerator essentials?

Black squid ink, bottarga, French or farmer’s market butter, guanciale, garlic, hot peppers, and onions.

Have you ever worked in food service?

When I was in college at the Rhode Island School of Design, a girlfriend and I got waitressing jobs at the Big Boy in Providence. They made us go to Big Boy school for a day. It was really fun, really! We had to carry six glasses in one hand and six plates in the other.

Tinsley!

Are you going to eat that whole piece of chocolate?

—BriaN Mazza

Chic

sourCe

warm& fuzzy What do Alexander Wang and Frank Tell have in common? Swathing freshfaced babes in luxe Australian Wool, for starters! Australian Wool Innovation’s CEO Stuart McCullough explains. BY MARIA DENARDO How did you end up with a career triangle, but it’s hard to come back up. in wool?

Does the average citizen understand the scale of the I was a jackaroo for a year on a farm in Australian wool operation? a remote part of Australia. That’s like No—some people think wool comes from a goat! Australia a cowboy for sheep. But it wasn’t like was gifted about five sheep from the King of Spain in Brokeback Mountain! the 1700s, which is how the industry began. We’ve put What skills does a jackaroo hundreds of years of genetic improvement in the product. gig require?

What’s the wool market looking like these days?

I can shear a sheep, no doubt about it! But it’s not just As a trend, it will come and go, but right now, it’s cool about speed, it’s also about the quality of the haircut. again. We also have a new consumer that wants to You don’t want to finish with a missing ear! feel good at the cash register, purchasing wool that’s How did a sheep farmer become the CEO of clean, green, and biodegradable. But the biggest Australian Wool Innovation (AWI)? reason is the affluence emerging in China. They’re I became a wool broker and a wool buyer. I tested the largest consumer for wool, purchasing 85 wool and spent a large part of my life exporting percent of the AWI clips. it to companies overseas before I took up a AWI sponsors Frank Tell and Alexander position at Australian Wool Innovation.

Wang. How did that happen?

For the wool novice, what is AWI? We support a number of designers around There are two parts to our company: Australian the world—some well-known, and some Wool Innovation and Woolmark Company. emerging. It’s important for us to engage AWI is the research side of the company, and at the pinnacle of the fashion triangle Woolmark is the marketing side. The Woolmark because we know that fashion doesn’t is the famous mark on fine wool clothes. AWI filter up—it filters down. is supported by about 30,000 shareholders, How do you choose the designers? who are all sheep farmers that provide us with We don’t want to approach someone who about $50 million a year to invest equally in is only using man-made products, so we research and marketing. identify people who are already using Is wool really used in over 2,000 products? wool and see if we can bolster that range.

Yes, everything from tennis balls to filters to How much wool do you own? wool jeans. But most of our wool goes toward A great deal, actually, but as the boss of the clothing because we supply 85 percent of the company, I don’t insist that employees wear world’s apparel wool. If you’re buying a wool wool. The climate in Australia doesn’t always sweater at Saks, there’s a good chance the permit for it. wool came from us.

What’s next?

Was that the case 20 years ago?

We’re always looking for ways to refresh. In 2007, We supplied more wool 20 years ago than we we sheared sheep as a stunt at Columbus Circle.

Alexander do now. In 1991, we had 180 million sheep in We also sheared sheep in the Waldorf-Astoria at a Wang Australia and now we have 70 million. The black-tie event for G’Day Australia. We were worried Fall 2012 market contracted with the rise of fast fashion we wouldn’t be able to pull it off until one of the in the nineties. It’s all about stack it high and sell it Waldorf staffers said, ‘No worries, we’ve had baby cheap. It’s easy to go down the fast fashion elephants in here!’

C L O C K W I S E : C O U R T E S Y O F AU S T R A L I A N WO O L ( 2) ; M O D E L S : F I R S T V I E W (4) : G E T T Y I M AG E S ( 1 )

Alexander Wang Fall 2012

ALL THINGS

AUSSIE! What’s the most Australian thing about New York?

Watching football at the pub.

What’s your favorite Aussie saying?

‘She’ll be right!’ It means things will be good.

Hugh Jackman or Russell Crowe?

Hugh Jackman. Russell is technically a New Zealander, but he lives here— about 100 yards from me, in fact!

Do you run into him often?

Nah, Rusty keeps to himself.

Olivia Newton-John or Peter Allen?

Peter Allen.

Muriel’s Wedding or Baz Luhrmann’s Australia?

Muriel’s Wedding! I can’t bring myself to watch Australia, but they tell me it’s a shocker.

Tel: 954.578.5687 Fax: 954.578.4431 info@iftheplanet.com www.iftheplanet.com

Booth 5735

SHOWROOMS CHICAGO  L.A.  DALLAS

RUNWAY

Fall 2012

BIG NEWS Brights and prints for Fall? But of course!

JOy ciOci

Chunky knits and casual-fit outerwear are only part of this designer’s appeal: her peppy color palette and abstract prints give this collection an unexpected edge.

Leather minis and floor-grazing hemlines—yes, for day!—are standouts.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M

Alice + OliviA

Stacey Bendet’s go-to girliness always serves her well, and this Fall, she’s added a groovy mix of prints and stripes to her repertoire.

The sparkly evening looks offset her perfect-fit pants, which working girls rely on season after season.

FIRSTVIEW

AT FASHION COTERIE AMINA RUBINACCI - 6945, AMINA RUBINACCI - 6945, AMINA RUBINACCI ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIU’ - 6732, ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIU’ BLUI - 6860, BLUI - 6860, BLUI - 6860, BLUI - 6860, BLUI FEYEM - 6649, FEYEM - 6649, FEYEM - 6649, FEYEM - 6649, FEYEM KATIA SERAFINI - 6549, KATIA SERAFINI - 6549, KATIA SERAFINI ROSSOPURO - 6760, ROSSOPURO - 6760, ROSSOPURO - 6760, ROSSOPURO TRAMONTANO - 7046, TRAMONTANO - 7046, TRAMONTANO -

6945 6732 6860 6649 6549 6760 7046

LEVEL 3 LEVEL 1 ARTICO - 5420, ARTICO - 5420, ARTICO - 5420, ARTICO - 5420, ARTICO - 5420 AVERARDO BESSI - 5422, AVERARDO BESSI - 5422, AVERARDO BESSI - 5422 GIMO’S - 5320, GIMO’S - 5320, GIMO’S - 5320, GIMO’S - 5320, GIMO’S - 5320 GIORGETTI TREND - 5428, GIORGETTI TREND - 5428, GIORGETTI TREND - 5428 MUSANI COUTURE - 1010, MUSANI COUTURE - 1010, MUSANI COUTURE - 1010 P & T FURS - 5325, P & T FURS - 5325, P & T FURS - 5325, P & T FURS - 5325 PAOLA TODESCO - 5326, PAOLA TODESCO - 5326, PAOLA TODESCO - 5326 ROBERTO AVOLIO MILANO - 5323, ROBERTO AVOLIO MILANO - 5323 SALCO - 5426, SALCO - 5426, SALCO - 5426, SALCO - 5426, SALCO - 5426 STIZZOLI - 5424, STIZZOLI - 5424, STIZZOLI - 5424, STIZZOLI - 5424 SUPREMA - 5328, SUPREMA - 5328, SUPREMA - 5328, SUPREMA - 5328

Via Faenza 109 - 50123 Firenze - Tel. +39 055 214835 , Fax +39 055 288326 www.emimoda.it - firenze@emimoda.it

PubbCOTERIE_10-1/4x13.indd 2

08/02/12 12.29

PRE-FALL 2012 BOOTH 9040 For buyer inquiries and appointments please contact kassandra@shop-alexis.com

SOLE COMMERCE BOOTH 2205

IRREVERENT

WWW.KOOLABURRA.COM

RUNWAY

Fall 2012

Diesel blaCk GolD Custo barCelona

So much for maxi lengths—chez Custo, the mini is back in full force. Fringed, embellished, and decked out in Boho touches and bright colors, this skirt or coat shape is the focal point of the total look.

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i ly. c o m

Trend alert! Diesel Black Gold’s Fall collection appears to have them all: black and white, leather, and that bright blue that’s sweeping showrooms all over town. The cropped knits and jagged hemlines? Just as directional.

eDun

Ali Hewson’s line continues to evolve each season, and her leathery Fall offers the kind of flattering, body-con dressing that women of all ages covet.

firstview

COTERIE NY BOOTH 5601 LEVEL 1 / EUROPE +353(0) 1 634.50.67 CANADA 1.888.477.5436 / SARAHPACINI.COM