FEBRUARY 24, 2016
coterie +sole commerce
Hippie Chic Magaschoni Moment Plus!
Best Booths
SIXTIES
FIX!
Anna Sui goes retro
DINA AGAM DINAAGAM.COM
COTERIE BOOTH 6132 Contact: Shannon Hall/Cloque Showroom 212.260.1069
P RE SE NT ING FALL/WINT ER 2016
BOOTH # 6205 USA: Mona Kumar - 212-731-9418 - mona.k@rudsak.com Canada: Desi Liberopoulos - 514-464-6460 - desi.l@rudsak.com Andrew Gunn - 514-827-9004 - andrew.g@rudsak.com
RUDSAK.COM
Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO
Gigi Hadid
with Bariano creative director Jay Jones Booth: 223
What’s new? Overtly dramatic evening/ prom wear that coincides beautifully with simple, chic, wearable daywear. Who’s one person you’d love to see wearing the collection? Without a doubt Michelle Obama— forever stylish and a true lady. Favorite career highlight? Spotting Gigi Hadid and Giuliana Rancic absolutely working Lumier by Bariano!
SCENE
Today marks Coterie’s finale, and we hope it’s been a chic success thus far. • If you missed The Daily’s first two issues of brands to watch—like Eric Javits (Booth: 3621), Nicole Miller (Booth: 1814), and Belstaff (Booth: 4214)—find one of our Berkeley College ambassadors or stop by the media stand. • Until next season, chicsters!
LONDON CALLING!
WITH House of Holland’s Farid Taghzouti Booth: 5625
It’s your first Coterie! Yes! It’s a bit crazy having to do the London show and coming here straightaway. We're already working with some stores in the U.S., but the plan is to get bigger. Tell us about the collection. Henry Holland designed a collection as if the ’20s met the ’70s. There’s also a bit of a Space Invaders theme. What’s next? Sales appointments in London, then we’re presenting in our showroom in Paris.
Mark Tevis Publisher
LOVE CONNECTION! With LoveshackFancy designer Rebecca Hessel Cohen Booth: 5105
Great booth! All the pieces are my own or my mom’s from our house in the Hamptons or our studio in the city. We love working with Putnam & Putnam—they do beautiful floral arrangements. We like to bring in a sense of travel and worldliness, so we have vintage pieces we found in France or flea markets around the world. A little fancy and a little shack. What’s in store for the brand? In March, we’re doing a pre-Coachella gifting with jewelry designer Jacquie Aiche. Then we’re doing a cute pop-up in Venice, California, with Coast by Coast.
HEARD
“WE’ve had 50 appointments already, and it’s just day one!” —hAUTE HIPPIE team, posing with The Daily
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Fashion & Luxury Goods Director Chloe Worden Account Manager Kassidy Silva Digital Director Daniel Chivu Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Midwest Kathy Burke Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
To advertise, call (646) 768-8107 Or e-mail: chloe@dailyfrontrow.com getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row
The Daily Coterie + Sole Commerce is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste. 301, New York, NY 10107.
SOFT FOCUS!
WITH Christopher Fischer Booth: 3033
What’s new? We’re in Intermix. They told us we’re one of their best-selling brands. We’re the talk of the office, apparently! And they’re the store of the moment. Tell us about the adorable goat figurines in your booth… They’re models, but the fibers are cashmere. I thought we’d bring in the herd of cashmere.
On the cover:
Anna Sui Fall 2016 collection, photographed by Firstview.
B F A N Y C . C O M ( 1 ) ; A L L O T H E R S z ach alston
Down Under Update!
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Design Director Jill Serra Wilde Fashion Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Designer Brandon Kizart-Haynes Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jean Borrie Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialist George Maier
SCENE
Don't miss the très chic labels at TMRW and SOLE! • TMRW: Behno (Booth: 5530), Karen Walker Eyewear (Booth: 5425), and Paper London (Booth: 5429) • SOLE: Charles David (Booth: 7518), Cole Haan (Booth: 7535), and Nanette Lepore (Booth: 7820).
QUEEN OF CASHMERE!
SPOTTED!
Magaschoni president and CEO Denise Seegal Booth: 2733
TOTE TALK!
WITH ERIC JAVITS Booth: 3621 What’s new this season? For bags, woven vegan leather, metallic silver, and gold. If you weren’t a designer, you’d be… A painter. Tips for staying warm but chic? Most of your body heat escapes through your head, so try one of our chic felt hats, a fur cap, beret, or fur toque.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Genie Parada-Fishman
SEEING RED!
with Genie ParadaFishman, owner, AGENT R.E.D. International Booth: 7114
Love your hair color! My husband dyes it for me in our kitchen. We call it Salon de Fishman! What are people loving this season? Capote is just through the roof. You can’t get people out of that booth. They’re known for their proprietary fabric—last season we ran out of it! It has a cult following. And the ponchos—girls of all ages are wearing them.
PHOTO OP!
Minnie Rose founder Lisa ShallerGoldberg talks campaign shoots Booth: 1935
We hear Mary Alice Stephenson stars in an upcoming campaign... Yes, she’s amazing! I felt like I was playing with a life-size Barbie doll. For some of the shots, she was midair—I’ve never seen a person jump so high! Any other shoots on deck? We’re shooting the Cuomos—Christina, her mother, and Bella and Carolina—for Mother’s Day, which will be fantastic. I can’t wait.
Ramy Brook’s New Addition!
Ramy Sharp
Booth: 2114
You look busy! What’s the focus today? Our booth is out of control! We’re highlighting our Fall 1, 2, and 3 deliveries, and our buy now wear now. Some of the buyers want immediates—they’ll test it, and when it sells out they'll come back and order more. What are some of the collection’s hits? Our prints and our furs with the knits at the bottom— it’s a mix of a fur and a sweater. I also love what I’m wearing, and our other new sweaters. It’s perfect for a party. You could wear it with a leather jacket or a shrug. Any Coterie traditions? The first night I take the whole team out to dinner. I try to find something hip and new—we’re going to The Black Barn. Any other updates? Our showroom on 39th Street is expanding. Our construction is almost done! We’ll be able to host parties, and each team will have a space.
COTERIE COMEBACK! with Bob Oré, president at Maison Mère Booth: 5347
What brings you to Coterie? I used to be big in fashion in Canada, and an old friend said you have to come back—I will back you. I said, “You pay me enough, and I will do anything!” What do we need to know about the brand? All of our fabrics are from Italy, and the pieces are designed and made in France.
Z A C H A L S T O N ( 7 ) ; co u r tes y
What’s new this season? Magaschoni has become a modern hybrid luxury cashmere and RTW brand for both bridge and contemporary customers. Our women have become more relaxed in their lifestyles, sometimes dressed in athleisure all day, so we’ve adjusted our product mix. What do you love about Coterie? Meeting with existing customers and attracting new ones, including international stores, and talking with other industry leaders about current market trends and business. What’s something you want all buyers to know about the brand? That our RTW collection is just as strong as our cashmere and knitwear. Who is this collection designed for? The confident, stylish, health-conscious, and onthe-go girl. She loves fashion, luxury products, cashmere, good quality, and color. We’re engaging her through our digital marketing, and we’re attracting a younger customer who spends up to 8 minutes on our website at a time. What's a best-selling piece right now? Ponchos in cashmere and in cotton. Anything coming up that you’re excited about? A great summer with The Daily in the Hamptons and a strong 2016!
pologeorgis brought in a model to showcase its luxe collection of furs.
BestBooths
designer floorplans The Fall/Winter collections presented at Coterie are divine—but these booths also caught our eye. Exhibitors, take notes! By Kristen HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZACH ALSTON
DIGITAL DISPLAYS
Tech elements— like motorized props or neon lights—add a splash of energy. —As seen at M MISSONI and S’WELL
1. BOHO DREAM anna sui Booth: 4018
2. prints on prints norma kamali Booth: 2826
3. BRIGHT LIGHTS s’well Booth: 3310
4. GREAT ESCAPE Moose knuckles Booth: 6017
5. clean + colorful LIKELY Booth: 2122
6
6. PERFECT props m MISSONI
4
2
Booth: 2825
5
3 FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
ITALIAN FASHION CONTEMPORARY / LEVEL 3
[C]STUDIO * AMINA RUBINACCI * ANDRE’ MAURICE * ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIU’*ANTONIOARNESANOFURS*BEATRICEB./SFIZIO*BIANCALANCIA * CARMEN MILANO * CASHEART * DI BELLO BY NIPAL * FRANCESCO GIRONACCI * JEI’S BY LETIZIA DENARO * LANDI FANCY * MARZI - FIRENZE * MELAROSA * MISTERNIC * MUSETTI * NEGRI FIRENZE * PARRONCHI CASHMERE * PUROTATTO * ROBERTA PIERI * SALDARINI - COMO * SHE’S SO * SPREAD * TRICOT CHIC * VLT’S BY VALENTINA’S * WHYCI
EVENINGWEAR / LEVEL 4 RIVER PAVILION SIVALIA
COTERIE 10.75"x13.5"A.indd 2
05/02/16 09:25
BestBooths
in the bag
Hanging or shelving bags in a well-lit booth makes it easier for buyers to shop the merch.
2 1. SHelf life zac zac posen
3
—As seen at ZAC Zac Posen and Lancaster Paris
Booth: 3021
2. home sweet home SCARLETT SHOWROOM
1
Booth: 5825
3. Paris dream CINQ A SEPT Booth: 1507
4. TouCH OF WHIMSY ODD MOLLY Booth: 7040
5. model figure dubarry of ireland Booth: 3155
6. COLOR CODING LANCASTER PARIS Booth: 3520
7. mannequin mix free people Booth: 6614
8. walk the line tkees
8
7 FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Booth: 4335
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THE PREMIER FASHION MARKETPLACE THAT CONNECTS WOMEN’S APPAREL AND ACCESSORY DESIGNERS WITH WORLDWIDE RETAILERS.
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TO LVL 4 & EVENING
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MARKET CAFE
TO LVL 4 & EVENING
TMRW ACTIVE ENTE MODA ITALIA PINKBERRY CAPPUCCINO
*Floor plan is subject to change. Last updated 2/16/2016
TO LVL 1 & CAFE + FWD
REGISTRATION
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LEVEL 3
ACTIVE @ COTERIE REPRESENTS TODAY’S PROGRESSIVE BRANDS WHERE FUNCTION MEETS FASHION.
BEYOND YOGA HEY JO INDUSTRY GTX LUKKA LUX MICHI MONREAL LONDON NANETTE LEPORE PLAY PEONY PRISMSPORT PRO SERIES BY KYODAN SATVA SOLOW STRUT-THIS ULTRACOR YOGASMOGA
6040 6043 5947 6045 6042 5943 6044 5945 5944 6048 5948 6047 5942 5940 5946
FEB 22.23.24 2016 THE JAVITS CENTER.NYC
Booth: 6808
HIPPIe chic
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Haute Hippie became a go-to collection for luxe wares with a bohemian spirit. Now, new creative force Cady Vaccaro joins the brand, complete with her own spin on Haute Hippie’s heritage. What better time to check in? BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER How did you land at Haute Hippie? I went to F.I.T., and right out of school, I worked at Alice + Olivia. I was there for 10 years, working under Stacey Bendet. There were about 15 people within the entire company. By the time I left, there were over 200 employees. It was an amazing experience. I was able to work on all categories and be involved in so much at such a young age, which gave me a strong foundation for what I’m doing now. What are your plans now that you’re at the creative helm? The main reason I decided to come on to this brand was my love of its original aesthetic. We are staying true to the original concept, but we are starting to bring in the newness, with different fabrications and shapes. I have a concept of lace layering—there will be a lace slip dress paired with a knit turtleneck underneath, and a lace cloak that goes over that.
You shot your summer lookbook in Westhampton? Yes, featuring the clothes for our May and June deliveries. The shoot perfectly captured the vision of the collection. We want our audience to feel something different when looking through our lookbook. Where is she going next? Whether it’s getting an Airbnb or shooting out in the world, we want everyone to feel wanderlust. What’s the general story for the collection you’re showing at Coterie? Our fall inspo is empowered women. Our muse was Charlotte Rampling, and the images that Helmut Newton took of her in the ’70s. The idea behind the collection is that we’re dangerous women, we’re impactful women, we’re trendsetters. Belle Starr is another influence for the collection—she was known as the Bandit Queen. What about brick and mortar? There’s nothing that we’re not going to do, but as far as our plans, we’re really trying to focus on building our e-commerce site first. How are you keeping the brand current? The most obvious way that you’ll see the modern transition is through the prints and the embellishments. Our prints are all hand-painted— they’re vibrant, and the colors of the collection really stand out. The prints usually tell part of the story. Even for our June delivery, one of the prints had a painting of my bird, Chicken, on it. When you talk about muses, Chicken—a sun conure—is many times my muse. Which pieces are you loving right now? My design team is always laughing at me because every time something comes in I always say, “This is my favorite piece!” They say, “When is one not your favorite piece?” That’s a sign of a good collection, if you love everything. Which fabrics are you focusing on? I’m very into jacquards. I like to start with the fabric, and then design into that. You’ll see a wider range of textures and novelty fabrics coming from us that you may not have seen in the past. We previously focused on silks. Tell us about your creative process… Beside fabric being a huge part, I’m very into vintage clothes for inspiration. There might be one vintage style that triggers a huge emotion for me, and that becomes the muse of the collection. I then build details into that idea. Are you a hippie at heart? I’m such a hippie! My daily life consists of weekends filled with yoga, riding my bike, and brunch. I’m definitely a free spirit who just wants to focus on the positive love of everything. Do you have any icons from that era that you admire? Marianne Faithfull, Bianca Jagger, Cher. What is the team hoping to accomplish at Coterie? Our biggest goal is to reconnect with the specialty stores. What’s a lesser-known fact about the brand? We reach everyone from the woman in her sixties to the girl getting ready for prom. Our goal is to empower everyone! ß
courtesy
newDirection
Choyo
Fall/Winter 2016-17 Choyo Joo Collection COTERIE NEW YORK : BOOTH # 2546 FEBRUARY 22 - 24 www.choyojoo.com
BRANDTo Watch
Booth: 7518
FOOT FORWARD For the better part of three decades, Charles David has been wowing Hollywood and beyond with a chic and wearable take on footwear. Ashley Michaelsen, the brand’s “foot,” discusses its European history, commitment to craftsmanship, and starring role in the movies. BY NATASHA SILVA-JELLY
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
factories in Italy and around the world, our craftsmen aim to create shoes that redefine the cost of luxury. We do not sacrifice design or quality, but we want to provide an affordable product. What’s the brand message? Charles David is an approachable brand, and we like to establish an identity in everyday places and common surroundings. Our campaigns can be shot at the beach in Malibu or in trendier places, like the W Hotel in Los Angeles or at a home in the Hollywood Hills. Our customer loves the glamorous lifestyle, but she also lives in the hustle and bustle of today’s world and wants a product that can keep up. Social media has helped us establish an identity with our customer by connecting with the bloggers and style watchers who drive fashion. We have lots of blogger events, where we host a lovely dinner and show them the collection. Our fans have always loved our product, but now, we want to make that emotional connection. You have an impressive roster of celebrity devotees. Our DNA is very Hollywood-driven, as our design team is West Coast–based, and I work closely with movie producers. Natalie Portman was a fan of our vegan line, and the products were featured in Black Swan. Emmanuelle Chriqui, Eva Longoria, Jennifer
TASK MASTER Ashley Michaelsen in the brand’s campaign.
Hudson, and Halle Berry have all worn our shoes. They also have a starring role in two films set to be in theaters this summer—Running Wild with Sharon Stone and Praying for Rain with Jane Seymour. Any plans to open retail stores? We no longer have stand-alone stores, so our focus is on our wholesale and e-commerce. We are stocked in around 40 retailers, including Nordstrom, Macy’s, Lord & Taylor, and Bloomingdale’s. Our customers want to connect to the lifestyle of the brand with the ability to choose options in one place. ß
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You’re the face of the brand, but you wear many hats. Yes! I started out as a shoe model, then turned into the face of the company, and then became creative director of the campaigns. Now, I also manage all the PR and marketing. How did you get your start in modeling? My parents were models, and so it was inevitable. I’ve been modeling since I was 6. I then transitioned into the fashion industry after graduating from FIT, where I studied fashion merchandising. As I got older, I wanted to be on the other end of the campaign—producing, casting, and booking the hair and makeup teams. What is the brand’s mission? Jeanne Zornada is the creative director; she has been with us for two years. She had her own shoe line and also worked at Vera Wang, Ralph Lauren, Kenneth Cole, and Brown Shoe Company. Her focus is to create sexy, sophisticated footwear with a fashion edge. We look to the latest trends and classic shoe silhouettes and reinterpret them in an updated and elevated way. What kind of influences is she working with? A lot of inspiration for the brand comes from our beginnings in Italy. We look at the quality and craftsmanship of masters like Salvatore Ferragamo, Gianvito Rossi, Aquazzura, and Prada. Within our
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the three marketeers If digesting the digital landscape is giving you agita, here’s a remedy: Maison MRKT, a start-up that specializes in e-commerce. The agency will lasso potential customers from the growing number of digital platforms— Instagram, websites, e-blasts, and the ilk—and collect intel you can actually work with. Intrigued? Co-founder Matt Nastos breaks it down. By kristen heinzinger photography by giorgio niro it takes three (From left) Co-founders Matt Nastos, Lexi Nastos, and Matt McGlynn
In a nutshell, what does Maison MRKT do? We’re an e-commerce acquisition agency. We help our clients align their digital presence—whether it’s e-mail, search engine optimization, or social media— with target customers. We offer a blend of services that takes a multichannel approach to e-commerce, and we analyze the relationship between them. Where did the idea come from? Maison MRKT was started by me, Matt McGlynn, and my younger brother, Lexi [Nastos]. Matt and I met while working at an e-commerce startup, The Cools. We were responsible for onboarding different collections to the platform. We noticed that a lot of the collections didn’t have an overarching e-commerce strategy. Businesses would spend an enormous amount of money on the development of the online shop, but once it was up and running, there was no one to take the reins and guide the digital retail strategy. So how did you land on the name? I’m a big fan of Johan Lindeberg and his collection BLK DNM. So I came up with BLK MRKT—I thought it sounded badass—but it was already a T-shirt company or something. Then on Mr. Porter, I saw Maison Margiela, and thought that alliteration had a great ear-feel. Maison MRKT has the alliteration, and it FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
mixes commerce and fashion. Who was the first to sign on? Orley, a luxury knitwear collection that’s part of the CFDA Fashion Incubator. We’re still working with them. It’s always been our goal to grow with our clients. We now have 15. Do many clients have a desire to learn, or do they prefer to take a backseat? Our clients have a great appreciation for the shift toward direct-to-consumer and e-commerce. While they defer to us as the experts, they all want to increase their fluency. That said, there are a lot of acronyms, lingo, and metrics that are pretty new, and many are unique to specific platforms. On some, there are no solid metrics, because they’ve only existed for a few months. We go through the exploratory experience together and help guide the way. In terms of the lingo, do you find that you have to do a bit of hand-holding? What’s differentiated our business is that we’re not sitting back and telling our clients, “Hey, if you do this, you’ll be successful.” More often than not, we integrate and run the campaign ourselves. A lot of the clients that we work with are not digital experts; they’re product and business people who are more
focused on getting their collection to the market, so they look to us to steer the ship. Why was the timing right to launch this kind of service? There are lots of exciting things going on in Silicon Alley—that’s what people call the New York City tech scene. We realized that a lot of fashion businesses are driven by creative entrepreneurs who don’t necessarily have a skill set nor interest in data and technology. Because we come from a fashion background—Lexi has experience at Theory and on the men’s buying team at Scoop—it helps put a lot of our clients at ease. We admire their collection and understand it, much more so than statisticians or nerds who can’t tell one product from another. You also get to a certain point where you have to pick up the wheels and take off. How do you interface with clients? We speak with everyone, from the owners and the operators to e-commerce managers or in-house digital marketing point people. At least once a month, we go over a detailed e-commerce recap of the previous month; we’ll review the data and analytics, and identify points of opportunity. How do you personify customers? We ask clients to share all the demographic information they have about their target customers in a questionnaire. We then create personifications— the jet-setter, the bro, or the Upper East Sider—that allow us to segment our campaigns in a more refined way. At the midpoint of each campaign, we look at the sales data in the online shop and compare that with our projections. So sometimes clients think the core customer is a woman who’s 45 to 55 years old in Tribeca, but it turns out that it’s the recent college grad from Long Island. What’s next? It’s very nerdy, but we’re excited about what’s happening with data science. Now you can apply machine-learning techniques—which sounds like something out of a Terminator film—to your information and you can use that to make predictions. Essentially, we’re figuring out how to bring the worlds of data and fashion together. It’s an exciting challenge that presents a lot of opportunities. The fashion community is hungry for the data we’re bringing to the table. While the two might use different sides of the brain, a realization has occurred in fashion that this is the wave of the future. ß
SURVEY SAYS! with Misha Nonoo
When did you enlist Maison MRKT? In December 2014—we heard about them from our CFDA Fashion Incubator neighbor, Orley. What was the appeal? Our team consists of people with mostly design backgrounds. The tech world was pretty new to
us. We loved the company’s approach; they gave us an intro class, on the proper vocabulary and meanings, making this world more understandable, fun, and less scary. What types of projects have they helped with? They dig deep and have found analytics in unlikely places, which has allowed us to make changes to better serve our consumer. Some of their findings were behind our shift to a consumer-driven calendar. This would be scary if we were trusting just our guts, but now we have hard data. The team takes the time to learn about your brand story and they build customizable plans based on your goals.
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techIntel
hauteStuff “I don’t like sleeping with people I really love. I don’t want to sleep with them because sex cannot last, but affection can last forever.”
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“ Want girls to let you put your fingers in certain places? Get a manicure.”
SEX LET’S TALK ABOUT
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When it comes to the sultry stuff, you refuse to hold back. Just another reason why we love you!
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“My job is to make people feel sensual.”
“I’ve had an extraordinary sex life.”
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“The sexiest people are thinkers.”
“Sometimes I’m really dressed up, and it really turns me on.”
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“The world would be a better place if people just engaged in sex and didn’t worry about it.”
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Answers: 1. (F) Karl Lagerfeld; 2. (E) Isaac Mizrahi; 3. (C) TOM FORD; 4. (H) RICK OWENS; 5. (G) STELLA MCCARTNEY; 6. (A) YVES SAINT LAURENT; 7. (B) MARC JACOBS; 8. (d) Vivienne Westwood FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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