Monday, February 25, 2013
Coterie + Sole
w o R t n Fro
chic must!
the ultimate boot
Show Directory Inside!
Calvin’s World! the new uniform
Plus: an exclusive interview with karlie kloss...Josie Natori’s secret passions...and more!
BLACK HALO 11211
CAMILLA 11209
D-ID
11007
HOUSE OF HARLOW 1960 11200
LEILA SHAMS 11108
MARC BOUWER HYBRID 10050
PIPER GORE 11206
RENZO + KAI 11207
JAVITS
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JOEYSHOWROOM.COM
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GETTING TO KNOW JOEY SHOWROOM’S JOEY GIUNTOLI
At Fashion Week!
PILLOW TALK! With Stacey Bendet Stacey Bendet Leila Shams
Describe your showroom in a nutshell. Hybrid by Marc Bouwer Joey Showroom represents an array of emerging and established designers, ranging from women’s ready to wear to handbags and accessories. What brands do you rep at Coterie? Black Halo, Camilla, D-ID, Leila Shams, Piper Gore, Renzo + Kai, House of Harlow, Laruicci, Suboo, and Hybrid by Marc Bouwer. What’s your fashion bio? I’m the president of New York, Los Angeles, Dallas and Atlanta Joey Showroom, and made my debut in the fashion industry over 16 years ago. Working with numerous top brands and designers throughout my career, I represented corporate showrooms as president of sales, before establishing Joey Showroom in 2004. What’s a tell-tale Joey-ism? If you get an email with only “????????” you know you’re in trouble! Who’s been a true fan of the showroom? Grace from Ambience in New Jersey. What’s in the future for Joey Showroom? We’re starting to branch out into men’s again.
your daily dose At Fashion Week!
TALKING BFFs!
What do you fantasize about? A good night’s sleep. When’s the last time you were well rested? I don’t even remember! I was sick just before fashion week; that’s why I didn’t make it to your anniversary party. I had a bed in my office. Your show, office, and store are all on 14th St. Anything else you’d want to open on the block? Maybe a beauty salon! I’d never have to leave this street.
ALICE + OLIVIA
With Donna Karan
Love your ‘90s DKNY revival with Opening Ceremony. How would you describe yourself in the ‘90s? I think I’m still in the ‘90s. I didn’t grow up! You and Patti Cohen have been friends forever. She’s really me. How did you meet? We lived in Fire Island and played tennis together. I was working at Anne Klein. Patti was bored and loved clothes. She asked me if she could work there and I said sure! She’s better at tennis. What do you do when you’re not working? We’re always at work, but we do go to the Hamptons together. Sometimes it’s good to have separate time. What famous duo would you compare yourselves to? Thelma and Louise. [Patti: We have a car. We go together!]
Vanessa Hudgens, AnnaSophia Robb, Victoria Justice
At Fashion Week!
A moment with JULIANNE MOORE at tommy CO-ED Hilfiger CHATTER!
What would you be doing if you weren’t at Tommy? Drinking wine! Tommy’s set looks like a library! Are you a frequent Where’s the library goer? most stylish I loooove the library. campus? I grew up going to Oxford the library! UnfortuJulianne Moore University. nately, a lot of my local If you went back libraries don’t have all to college, what the books I want. It’s really would you tough! I bring my daughter major in? to the 42nd Street library, Art history, because they have a great because I children’s section. never What’s your earliest took it! Hilfiger memory? Gosh! I remember meeting his daughter, Ally, when she was nine-years-old. How crazy is your e g ta acks NYFW sched? g photog b in k o ’m o “I -l y r: p Frum reporte a to r, It’s not really age g fi Hil at Tommy of buying a e id gressive; I try to e th d un ay. kicking aro ocks, one d s r only do what I e g fi il H my some Tom !” feel like doing, ? d il w e b t a Wouldn’t th so I have fun with it.
WITH TOMMY HILFIGER
ARD E H R E OV
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Allan Ellinger, founder and board chairman, and Gail Garramone, executive director, Fashion Delivers
Catching up! With Fashion Delivers’ Gail Garramone
What is Fashion Delivers? We’re the compassionate heart of the industry, providing donor companies with great corporate social responsibility opportunities. We were born out of the industry response to Hurricanes Katrina and Rita, and in the last seven years we have raised more than $150 million in new product donations for people in need. How many agencies do you work with? We have a network of more than 400 community agencies to distribute the donated product to clients in their programs. Our other network consists of over 500 companies that donate the new product that helps people in need. How did you handle Hurricane Sandy? We’ve raised over $20 million in donated product, and we’re still working to help those victims return to a stable life. What can brands do to lend a hand? Whether helping us alleviate everyday poverty or responding to a natural disaster, wholesalers and retailers can turn excess new product into community assistance.
bfanyc . com ( 5 ) ; patrickmcmullan . com ( 2) ; getty images ; all photos courtesy of the designers ; fashion delivers : courtesy
Fashion Must Furs
Sam & Lavi
GLOBE TROTTING!
your daily dose
DvF on the runway
WITH THE GLOBE SHOWROOM’S JEFFREY CAYER Smythe
HEARD
ENK tapped cutting-edge sound firm CURASI to curate those bumpin’ beats you’ve been bobbing your head to. Keep your eyes peeled for DJ Sharon Hinnendael, who’s spinning new, rare, and unreleased tunes through Tuesday!
Badgley Mischka
At Fashion Week!
How did your London Fog collaboration come about? We’re part of the same parent company. You know we’re all about glamour, so it’s fun to try and add a little dash of what we do to a product that’s sensible. What will the raincoat look like? It’s a classic silhouette. It’s a true trench coat, but it has beaded details like a storm flap and cuff straps. The biggest challenge was making the beads waterproof. How about the children’s raincoat? We did a little poncho. A little girl can just throw it on and put her arms through the holes. You know parents hate to fuss and get coats on their fidgety children!
Rock Chronicles! With Diane von Furstenberg
What’s happening for Fall? Glam rock! Every woman wants to be glamorous and rock and roll. Life is a party. It’s a collection of pieces you want to keep forever. What kind of rock do you love? I love it all, starting with David Bowie...
SHOWTIME WITH
A Moment with… Versace
THE DEN LUXURY GROUP’S DENIA GUEMRI Describe The Den Luxury Group in two words. Warm and welcoming. Missoni Where are you from? I’m Parisian! What’s your M.O.? I’m an extremely hard working person. My main focus in my business is to keep my clients happy, so I’ll do anything to achieve that. What brands do you rep at Coterie? Missoni and Versace accessories. What’s in Den Luxury Group’s future? Exclusivity with more renowned brands. I’m in talks with a major brand right now, but can’t give too many details yet. Stay tuned! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. c o m
Calvin Klein Underwear Model Matt Terry
So...about that ad! Once it aired, my phone didn’t stop ringing for 10 minutes. It was the first commercial Calvin’s put in the Super Bowl. Were you nervous about being in your underwear in front of 111.3 million people? I wrestled in high school. Being in a gym with tons of people looking at you builds up your comfort level. Do you get free underwear for life? I’m pretty sure it’s safe to say that.
What Coterie brands do you rep? Ash Rain + Oak, Ashley B, Boundary, Heartloom, Kymerah, Lie by Lie Sang Bong, LRK, Nicholas K, One Grey Day, Paper Crown, Sam & Lavi, Smythe, and Stylestalker Your showroom in a nutshell, please! An eclectic mix of contemporary collections from around the world, both domestic and international. How many partners do you have? Four: Bruno Peutat, Tracey Burton, Lisa Ying, and myself. Any showroom highlights? Opening our Los Angeles showroom with our partner, Tracey Burton, after our first year in business. It was a big jump, but we knew it was the right time. Where do you see your company headed? The Globe Paris!
Kymerah
LIE
Sweet tooth! With Cynthia Rowley, at her brand-new UES boutique Let’s talk about the new store... We signed the lease on December 20th. Cutting it close. I do not f*ck around. You can quote me on that. Why did you want to sell candy too? We have an initiative for employees with entrepreneurial ideas—an explosion went off in my head when I heard this idea.
GETTY IMAGES (3); FIRSTVIEW (2); PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF DESIGNERS
Fall 2013
Introducing
Introducing
Fall 2013
Introducing
Fall 2013
Introducing
Fall 2013
Fall 2013
Introducing
Pier 94 Booth Pier 94#3244 Booth #3244
Coterie
Haute Hippie
Haute List
Who’s
SHOWING
It’s your second day! Tons more Coterie + Sole Commerce brands to see.
Haute Hippie Designer: Trish Wescoat Pound Booth: 9000, Level 1, Javits Center
Describe the brand in one sentence. We coined the term “RoBo” which is rock ‘n’ roll bohemian. Background, please! I’ve been in the industry for years and served as president of women’s sales at Theory, president of Collection at Michael Kors, and president and creative director of Laundry by Design and for all contemporary brands. What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration? We were drawn to the phoenix, the legendary mythical creature that’s reborn from its ashes. The Haute Hippie girl is reborn from her trial by fire. Burning rose prints and studded black suede represent the phoenix flames and ashes. The scarabs hidden imprint and placement in jewelry reinforce the idea of rebirth. What’s new this season? We’re getting more involved in our suiting, introducing the embellished sweatpant and jouse, which is a jacket and blouse. We are also developing new prints and re-introducing our David Bowie jacket. Key retailers? Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Saks, and Bergdorf Goodman, but we love all of our specialty stores and are thrilled that Haute Hippie is in great company. Who’s your dream collab? It would be my dream to design shoes with Brian Atwood. Who was your mentor? Andrew Rosen, CEO of Theory, taught me all the ins and outs. Favorite Coterie moment? I love walking the show and seeing people that I’ve known throughout the years!
fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
NIC+ZOE Designer: Dorian Lightbown Booth: 5704, Level 1, Javits Center
Describe your brand in one sentence. An innovative women’s apparel collection featuring sensual and feminine knits in beautiful colors and sophisticated prints. Background, please! More than 25 years as a knitwear designer in both retail and wholesale businesses. What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration? ’70s London, baroque, and retro futurism. Key retailers? More than 900 specialty stores along with upscale department stores. Who’s your dream collab? Mickey Drexler. Who’s your earliest industry supporter? I feel privileged to have started my career with Les Wexner at The Limited. Fast forward five years… And we’re in every woman’s closet! What’s next? Introducing new categories. Stay tuned for our scarf collection for Holiday!
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS
Coterie
Haute List
La Pina by David Helwani Designer: David Helwani Booth: 1062, Level 1, Javits Center
Describe your brand in one sentence. The quintessential RTW dress collection meant for an adventurous and sexy night out. What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration? My mother, Pina Helwani, who the collection is named after. What’s new this season? The line is based on three core fabrications: a Ponte for the structured dresses, a bandage body-con group, and a draped nylon. Key retailers? Neiman Marcus, Intermix, and Shopbop Who’s your dream collab? We would love to do a dress collaboration with someone like Izabel Goulart, who’s the perfect embodiment of beauty and sophistication. Fast forward five years… We see La Pina evolving into a full RTW collection! What’s next? After Coterie, we will be launching the line for the first time in Europe.
Pologeorgis Furs Designer: Company Spokesperson Booth: 8343, Level 1, Javits Center
Describe your brand in one sentence. Family-owned, U.S. manufacturer with the finest quality in the industry. What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration? We are constantly inspired by the limitless boundaries of working with fur: the combinations, textures, and tones which can be combined in each garment. What’s new this season? Our new iPad cases in jewel-toned furs is the perfect accessory! We’re also proud of our capsule collection of shearling jackets and vests. Key retailers? Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, and Nordstrom as well as international boutiques and specialty stores nationwide Who’s your dream collab? We are already fortunate enough to work with the very best designers currently working in fur today, including Michael Kors, Zac Posen, and Chado Ralph Rucci. What’s your biggest career coup? Our Pologeorgis Furs jacket on the cover of a winter edition of Harper’s Bazaar! Favorite Coterie moment? Meeting new vendors and clients from around the world always keeps things spicy!
Blank NYC Designer: Emmy Lauridsen Booth: 1708, Pier 94
Describe your brand in one sentence. Blank’s aggressively modern take on denim embraces DIY style, individuality, and a little youthful rebellion. What my surprise us about your brand? That we recently launched our Blank Girls collection. Background, please! I’ve been designing denim specifically for about 18 years. What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration? Scotland! Key retailers, please! Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Cusp, ShopBop, and Madewell. Who’s your dream collab? Kelly Wearstler because she’s constantly progressive in shapes and understands fabrics. Favorite Coterie moment? Our new custom booth being unveiled this Coterie.
fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS
Coterie
Haute List
Transparente Designer: Homa Siddiq Booth: 8038, Level 1, Javits Center
Describe your brand in one sentence. Relaxed, funky clothes made from the latest and trendiest type of fabric that allows the garment to look ageless and interchangeable. Background, please! I started out having my own boutique in Germany. What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration? I got inspired by the “smile” and colors of the trees and by people walking around the lake near my house. Key retailers? Specialty boutiques that not only concentrate on small sizes but who want to make real women happy! Who’s your dream collab? To work with Issey Miyake would be my dream come true. Who’s your earliest industry supporter? My brother, Sid Siddiq, who has been there for me and helped me manage my brand in the U.S.
QUINN Designer: Bree Telford Booth: 11120, Level 1, Javits Center
Describe your brand in one sentence. Built on wardrobe fundamentals, the Quinn brand is a lifestyle collection that embodies effortless luxury and modern design. What does Quinn mean? It’s derived from the word “quintessence” which means “representing the most perfect example of quality or class.” Background, please! Our company is owned by Jean Kolloff, who was most recently a coowner of Qi New York. Our design director is Bree Telford, who was previously design director of sweaters at Qi. What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration? Our Fall 2013 collection was inspired by Old World art and architecture. Who’s your dream collab? Dries Van Noten because I love his use of print and color. What’s your biggest career coup? Quinn launched in January and has already created a buzz among fashion front runners, and styles from the collection have been worn by celebrities like Emily Blunt and Juno Temple. Fast forward five years… Quinn will have expanded into menswear and leather goods and we will have opened our own retail locations across the country. Favorite Coterie moment? Come by our booth and find out for yourself!
Hobo Designer: Koren Ray Booth: 3244, Pier 94
Describe your brand in one sentence. Hobo, an American lifestyle brand, builds its heritagehip brand philosophy, innovative design, purposeful details, and iconic style into each and every one of our signature accessories. Background, please! I originally studied theatrical design at Northwestern University, but my real education came from 20 years of studying with one of the greatest handbag mavens, my mother, Toni Ray. What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration? This fall, Hobo focuses on the importance of bohemian and folkloric influences blended with the vintage charm of bygone eras. What’s new this season? A collection of soft, washed leather in yummy, casual styles. Key retailers? We are pleased to partner with retailers like Nordstrom and Lord & Taylor and over 2,000 specialty boutiques around the country. ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS
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ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS
Coterie
Haute List
C&C California Designer: Yuchin Mao Booth: 2823, Pier 94
Describe your brand in one sentence. The effortless look of C&C California continues to be the choice for the iconic casual, chic lifestyle. Background, please! I was creative director at Three Dots and senior designer at Helmut Lang in New York. What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration? Fall 2013 takes us from modern romance to retro extravagance. Faux leather and suede are used throughout the delivery, casual wear is jazzed up with embellishments, and faux rabbit and sherpa give the collection the ultimate in luxury. What’s new this season? We’re launching C&C California Designed by Stephanie, a capsule of upscale leggings and shirts with feminine and trend-right styling. Key retailers? Bloomingdale’s, Shopbop, Revolve, TNT Canada, and Neiman Marcus Cusp. Who’s your dream collab? We would love to collaborate with Rachel Bilson, a loyal fan of C&C California. Who’s your earliest industry supporter? We’re grateful that Bloomingdale’s and Shopbop have been supporters from the beginning. Fast forward five years… We’ll continue to build more categories, creating a full lifestyle brand.
Me & Kashmiere Designer: Kadri Booth: 3337, Pier 94
Describe your brand in one sentence. Me & Kashmiere is a harmonious blend of the utmost quality, natural textiles, and timeless fashion. Background, please! I’ve been in the cashmere craft for the last fourteen years, and my family has had four generations-worth of experience in the field. What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration? Trout fishing in Kashmir last autumn was an experience that provided for a beautiful insight into the patterns and ways of nature. Our Fall 2013 collection seeks its inspiration from this very conversation with life. What’s new this season? We’re introducing reversible cashmere scarves as well as cashmere that is blended with lurex on a hand loom. Key retailers? We sell internationally in over 30 countries to stores like Maxfield, Henri Bendel, and Babette. Who’s your dream collab? Our recent collaboration with Vakko Istanbul is one that we’re incredibly pleased about! Who’s your earliest industry supporter? Le Bon Marche in Paris. What’s next? Expansion to a men’s line, and opening a retail store in Paris next year. Favorite Coterie moment? The energy at Coterie is electric! My favorite moment is the general buzz you can hear by noon.
Ipanema Designer: Schana Cenci Sole Booth: 826, Javits Center
Describe your brand in one sentence. Always new, always Ipanema. Background, please! After working at my family’s shoe factory, I got my degree in fashion then began working with Grendene 12 years ago. What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration? We were inspired by the romance and femininity from the fifties and seventies, as well as ethnic graphics. What’s new this season? Ipanema will be introducing a couple new concepts for the U.S. market that have been major successes in Brazil. Keep an eye out for Neo Mix, Maya, and Unique! Key retailers? Atrium, Nordstrom, Shopbop, and Everything But Water to name a few. Who’s your dream collab? Adriana Barra, a Brazilian designer who creates wonderful prints inspired by Brazil’s beauty. Who’s your earliest industry supporter? My supervisor from Grendene, Marinangelo. He gave the opportunity and encouraged me to take on the role of design coordinator at Ipanema.
fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
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Josie playing at Carnegie
B
Prolific lingerie designer Josie Natori knows what it takes to turn a burgeoning intimates label into a global lifestyle brand. Ready to get intimate? BY PAIGE REDDINGER PORTRAIT BY GIORGI NIRO
Above, Josie and her husband; right, Natori nightgown
efore fashion, were you really What’s a day a banker? in the life of That was so long ago! I was Josie Natori? an investment banker for nine years These days I travel so before I started my business. I segued much! But normally, I into lingerie, but I knew quickly that have a trainer at 7 a.m. the line had the potential to be a a few times a week, lifestyle brand. I’m in the office by 9 How do you split your energies a.m., and I try to see my Booth: 5707, 1 between the business and creative grandchildren for a few evel aspects of the brand? minutes each morning. They Javits Center, L In the end, I always believe that it’s a live five floors downstairs! One business. But I’m also cognizant that is three years old and one is creativity is important. I think the two 8 months. Then, I work a full work side by side. I enjoy creating day, at least 10 hours. I never something that someone will want, sit still! but in the end you measure your How do you like to unwind? success by business results. I love to sleep and get a Your earliest Natori pieces were massage. I like to sit around shirts repurposed as nightgowns: with my friends and just tell us more! gossip. Also, we have a place I was showing some embroidered in Palm Beach where I like to blouses a friend had given me to sit in the sun and do absolutely a buyer at Bloomingdale’s and she nothing. said, ‘Why don’t you make this a You originally considered nightshirt?’ That’s how I accidently getting into antiques. Is found myself in the lingerie world. that still a hobby? How many nightgowns did you sell I’m a shopaholic! I love to Saks in the first season? antiques and going to flea We sold thousands! It was a markets. We have quite an novel idea at the time. Even enormous trove of archives, I didn’t have any idea of dating back 40 years; I’ve what this was supposed been scouring the market. to be. I just made clothes What are your career highlights? that you could sleep in if you I gave a concerto when I turned 50 at Carnegie Hall in front wanted to. of 500 people. That was very personal. In terms of fashion, I How else did you just received a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Femmy revolutionize the industry? Gala. It makes me feel very old. I’m grateful, but the best is yet Bringing color and print to this to come! category was something very Speaking of your turn at Carnegie Hall, how long have you been revolutionary at the time, because playing piano? I was treating it like eveningwear. Since I was 4 years old. I have to say, I’m happiest at the piano. I When I got into the industry it like playing Rachmaninoff. was either sweet and traditional Did you ever want to be a professional pianist? or lewd. This was something in The business I’m in has allowed me to express artistry in a different between. way. Sitting at the piano is special, but I don’t have the temperament How have skivvies evolved since to become a concert pianist. you started? You’re unveiling a new retail concept that looks like a boudoir! Lingerie is now incorporated into This is for our more contemporary brand, Josie. It’s a fairly young womens’ wardrobes; it’s not just brand for us, addressing women who are 25 to 35 years old. The line something you hide. Pajamas, bras, shows the fun, eclectic, and casual lifestyle of that customer, so and corsets are not just what you the retail concept is meant to look like that customer’s bedroom. sleep in. It’s gone mainstream! We’re actually eyeing a space downtown. Hopefully we’ll open at Do men ever influence your superthe end of this year. femme designs? What’s your take on the industry today? Frankly, no. I’ve been married to a wonderful man for 40 years, but Women have so many more choices today, and information travels so fast, you I don’t think about what he likes in terms of the business. If men have to be clear what you’re about. But one element that has stayed the same is enjoy it, that’s fine, but it’s about the woman. If a woman feels good the consumer’s appreciation of authenticity. Josie Natori is a brand that stands in something, then everybody around her feels good. for something, and we’re consistent. I’m grateful we’re still around 35 years later.
Revealing
Natori
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Kloss
Is In Session At the ripe old age of 20, the Midwest’s sexiest export has a stack of European contracts, her very own cookie line, the haircut of the year, and a deal with Mercedes-Benz. Did we mention she wants to go to Harvard? BY EDDIE ROCHE
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
How was Berlin Fashion Week, Karlie? It was a whirlwind adventure. It was covered in snow, but I actually got to enjoy watching a show for once. It was nice being on the other side of the chaos! What show did you see? I saw a young designer, Degree Fahrenheit. It gave me a whole new perspective on things. Now that I’ve been in the audience, I’m much more aware. You can see how many times the person on the runway is blinking and even breathing! When you’re actually on the runway, you sort of shut everything out. You don’t think about anyone because it would be overwhelming to actually know who’s watching. I’m going to be a lot more self-aware on the runway now. You’d never been to a show before? No, that was the first time. Really? Unless you count my high school fashion show! [Laughs]. But even then I don’t think I got a frontrow seat.
actually the time to get it insured! Thoughts on your pal Jason Wu designing for the First Lady again? I’m so proud of him. The career he’s had in such a short amount of time is incredible. It’s truly just the beginning, but to have the recognition and validation of someone like Michelle Obama is huge. He’s going to be around for a very long time, but the fact that he did the two consecutive [inaugural ball] dresses will go down in history. The photos of you two together are always adorable. We’re the ultimate duo. He’s the one who puts me in heels and makes me even taller. It’s his fault! When did you do the Vogue shoot on Staten Island with Annie Leibovitz? We shot it in December, long after Hurricane Sandy. It was in-
“Now I feel all this pressure to start cramming for the SATs. I even bought an SAT prep book. You should help me study!” How many seasons have you been walking now? I’d have to count. I’ve completely lost track. This is my fifteenth? I’m not sure. I know it’s a lot, and that I’m going into this season as a seasoned veteran. [Laughs] It’s my favorite time of the year, and when I get to see everyone. That’s what’s so special about shows. The last time we spoke, for The Daily Berlin, it got picked up around the world because you said you wanted to go to Harvard. Why do you think people were so curious about that? Transitioning from a fashion career into college isn’t always the norm, so that’s something slightly different about me. I don’t know why it got picked up like it did, though. Now I feel pressure to start cramming for the SATs. I even bought an SAT prep book. You should help me study! Sure. Do you usually read what people write about you? To be honest, I don’t. I’m not very tech-savvy in the first place, and I’m slow to reply to emails. Every once in a while, I do see what’s out there, but 90 percent of it probably goes right by me, both good and bad, which is probably for the better. I just stick to doing what I’m good at and try to avoid the noise. Your haircut has been getting a lot of press lately. The Times called it the cut of the year! It’s kind of unbelievable. I’m not sure how it became such a phenomenon, but I’m excited that it’s inspired other women to feel empowered enough to make the chop. I feel like I’m in good company. I saw recently that Michelle Obama has a similar sort of ‘do. I’ve seen a lot of people recently doing a new cut for the New Year, and it’s really empowering and an honor to have that sort of recognition for my cut. I was in a coffee shop yesterday and I heard this group of girls talking about “the chop.” They didn’t realize that I was totally eavesdropping on their conversation. You may be too young, but do you remember Jennifer Aniston’s “The Rachel” from Friends? Of course! Come on! Are you going to get your hair insured? I probably should, knowing how brutal it is during the shows. But it feels really healthy right now since I cut it and haven’t had any real damage. So maybe this is
credible and an honor to meet the first responders. It was so humbling. And the chance to interact with them is is not something that I would have had the opportunity to do otherwise. Did you think it might be controversial at the time? The story itself and the photographs are, in my opinion, a tribute to these incredible heroes and pays respect to them. It was an honor to be a part of it, because it was celebrating all of their incredible work. Are there any legendary photographers left that you haven’t worked with? I would have loved to work with Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, and Irving Penn. I was born in the wrong era! I wish that I was born a little bit earlier and had the chance to work with the greats. Are you an old soul? Entirely. I miss the film days. I was sort of on the tail end of film. I’ve worked with Paolo Roversi, who still uses quite a bit of film when he can get his hands on it. I’m old-fashioned in many ways, especially when it comes to fashion. I’m very nostalgic. There are so many incredible eras in fashion; the ’90s, the ’70s, the Halston era, the grunge era, and the ’60s in London. I don’t know, I wish I had a time machine so that I could experience each one of them. But the thing is, the world is also incredibly interesting right now, just in an entirely different way.
GREG KESSLER
You may know him as the artsy, younger brother of the First Lady of Pop, and the author of the tell-all tome, Life With My Sister Madonna, but did you also know Christopher Ciccone is foraying into footwear? The Material Boy explains. BY MARIA DENARDO
shoe biz
3 Sole Booth: 50 el 4 ev L Javits Center,
Why shoes? I’ve had many careers: furniture designer, painter, photographer...Each role speaks to the others. I don’t look at designing footwear as strictly fashion—it’s artwork—so when I was approached by Novesta to start the brand, it felt like a natural thing for me. If someone asked me tomorrow to design a car for them, I’d probably say, ‘You’re crazy.’ Then I’d think, ‘Wait a minute. I can do this!’ You’re not exactly a stranger in the industry. I’ve been involved in fashion since I was working as creative director for my sister in the beginning of her career, on tours like Blond Ambition and The Girlie Show. We always worked with brands like Gaultier and Dolce & Gabbana to try to find things ahead of the curve for her to perform in. When did your love affair with shoes start? In the ‘70s, my mother bought me my first pair of platforms. I wore them with a polyester shirt with really puffy sleeves. Mind you, these weren’t high platforms. I have a pair that are seven inches tall that I wear from time to time. What was the learning curve like? Thank God for YouTube! I got my education watching videos, about everything from how a shoe is made to what rubber can and can’t do. I’ve also spent a lot of time looking at the current fashion shows to see what designers are sending down the runway. There has to be some sort of connection to what people are wearing on their bodies and on their feet. Who’s your number-one cheerleader? Michael Atmore from Footwear News has been incredibly supportive. This would have been more difficult without his help. Was your last name always a front runner for a brand name? Ciccone seemed like the logical, and only, choice for me. And it has recognition, so why wouldn’t I use it? Describe your aesthetic. I do my best to avoid trendy things. My brand is about modern
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
classics reinvented. Obviously, we’ll keep up with what’s in fashion, and it does matter, but it’s more important to design staples you won’t get tired of in two months. What’s your business strategy for the first year? I’m focused on expanding my offering so there’s more choice for larger retailers like Nordstrom or Macy’s. We sell online and in Europe right now. My North American launch will really happen in August. Are you expanding into new categories as well? This is just the beginning of a lifestyle brand. We added high heels and outerwear to our latest collection. Each season, I’ll add something new. I’d eventually like to see The Ciccone Collection become more like a modern, hipper version of Ralph Lauren. I’m not looking to produce leather chairs and cowboys on horseback. It’s about having a point of view and reaching a large audience. Who is your audience? My ideal client lives everywhere and is every age. We design for men, women, and children at a mid-level price point. You’re based in L.A. Where do you produce? Everything is made in Slovakia right now, but with the new categories, we’re expanding into Europe for more suppliers. They need the jobs anyway! Has Madonna worn anything from The Ciccone Collection yet? I’m putting a package together and sending her one of everything. I think she’d like the “Stelia” the best. It’s a new leather knee-high boot that’s right up her alley.
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY
RUNWAY Fall 2013
BIG NEWS
From tough-chic babes to glam goddesses, check out Fall’s fierce fashion!
Calvin KLEIN
collection Sublimely mad for military. From cadetstyle coats in black wool and mohair gabardine to tough but sexy cinched-waist leather dresses marched down Francisco Costa’s catwalk, all the while tempered with that classically Calvin touch of minimalism.
dkny
Elegance with an edge. Sophisticated city girls will look chic hitting the streets in Karan’s neoprene-spliced, sleekly piece-y arsenal for Fall. Layering over pants toned down the toughness for a dash of feminine flair.
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C A LV I N : F I R S T V I E W ; D K N Y : g etty i m a g es
WORLDLY. VERSATILE. SMART. indigenous.com booth #8647 javits halls 1abc level 1
booth #11009
runway
Fall 2013
diane
von FUrstenberg Disco darlings. If anyone knows how to do the ‘70s trend, it’s the queen of the era herself. All of the hits were there: Glam metallic pants, colorful coats with oversize fur collars, a groovy day-toevening maxi dress, and the iconic wrap dress, bien sur. Bianca Jagger, eat your heart out!
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sui
Nouvelle Vague. Sui turned to Godard’s girls this season with swinging ‘60s looks. Think printed pantsuits and A-line dresses in groovy fabrics like quilted gold and silk striped swirls.
nicole
miller
Who’s got you covered? Nicole’s standout collection included her rocking new outerwear in bright prints and mix ’n’ match fabrics that will keep you looking cool yet haute.
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A CONVERSATION WITH MORRISSEY By Genie Parada Fishman
Genie: Hello, JR! JR: Hey, Genie. G: Where are you calling from? JR: My factory in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. G: You must be working on your line, Morrissey. JR: It’s my favorite thing to do! G: I know you hate this question, but define the look of Morrissey for me. JR: Ugh, you know me well! This time I’m ready. I looked up the definition of the word. G: That’s not helping with this interview! JR: Morrissey is one story after another, a continuous conversation with silhouettes and fabrics. Each season (or story) aims to build and be better than the previous one. G: I know all designers are different, but take me through your design process. JR: It starts with a large bottle of Hendrick’s Gin. Just kidding! I wanted to see if you’re still listening. When I’m not in love with my sketches, I have a conversation with my team which leads us through various fabrics and silhouettes. Color comes into play near the end. G: Okay, besides sketching, what part of design do you find most challenging? JR: On a recent trip to India, I learned the word “swadharma” which means your natural instinct to do something is the hardest part of your journey. if you do what you love, success is just an eventuality. G: Tell me about the Brooklyn design aesthetic. JR: As a designer, we feel at home in a creative community. At times we collaborate with local artists, designers, and architects who share the same attention to detail and need for responsible sustainability. G: You can definitely say that with all the great restaurants, coffee houses, and artisanal breweries that have sprung up in the borough. JR: The place is littered with talent! G: Well, JR, I think my dime is about to run out, so thank you for chatting with me. JR: My pleasure. I’ll see you on the L!
MORRISSEY Pier 94, Booth 3217 SPECIAL PROMOTION
runway
Fall 2013
kate spade new york
jill
stuart
Color coded. Cherry and bubblegum hues abounded, the whimsy factor translated via a red overcoat or a playful pink sweater-leopard print skirt pairing. Perfect for the working girl wanting to wow in and out of the office.
Skirts that flirt. Stuart’s dresses came in eye-catching fabrics like velvety florals and showstopping stripes with swinging skirts for feminine flair.
Tommy
hilfiger Check this out! Preppy Americana by way of Britain in the swinging ‘60s was Hilfiger’s take on the current menswear craze. Prince of Wales paired with houndstooth and herringbone was the coolest mix.
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Premiere Booth 5310
SHOWROOMS CHICAGO L.A. DALLAS
Fashion Has a Heart!
Donated New Apparel and Home Fashions Lift the Spirits of People in Need Fashion Delivers takes new apparel and home products and provides them to people in need, throughout the U.S. and around the world. Whether they are affected by natural disasters or face everyday challenges of poverty, manufacturers and retailers can turn excess inventory into hope for these people. We use the fashion industries’ products to offer a break from everyday troubles and help people in need face their problems with dignity.
Visit FashionDelivers.org to see how your donation can make a difference in someone’s life!
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kenneth
runway
Fall 2013
REBECCA
cole
We meet again? Black and white continue to fill the space color left behind. Here they mingle, combining Baroque prints and edgy layering. Divine!
TAYLOR
If looks could kill. Taylor bids adieu to her girly aesthetic this season with tough-chic looks like punky zippered suspender pants and edgy leather moto vests.
EDUN
Grunge meets glam! Rock ’n’ roll ran this runway in a mix of ’90s plaid and ’80s lamé. Miss Love, do you approve?
MARA
HOFFMAN
Fit for a prints-cess. Lightening up what’s been a dark and bulky season, Hoffman’s collection was full of tribal patterns and a ‘70s vibe.
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