The Daily Coterie

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Show Directory Inside!

e i r e t o C

+ So le COM MER CE

the shows, the shoes,

the

splendid

new spring

Ready for

chic?

Coterie NY booth 5900 Level 3 / Hall 3E Showroom New York 1.646.998.3701 sarahpacini.com Europe +353(0) 1 634.50.67 Canada 1.888.477.5436

THE DANCE OF LIFE spring summer 2013

M A D E I N I TA LY

is NeXt

discover the future of the wholesale marketplace at jooraccess.com

Coterie Designers: Cecilia Prado # 3937 Miele # 4228 Patricia Bonaldi # 7212 Serpui Marie # 4050 Vix # 2131

www.abest.com.br

Sole Commerce Designers: Amazonas # 10029 Havaianas # 9930 Ipanema # 9933 Irรก Salles # 9935 Jorge Bischoff # 10031 Luiza Barcelos # 9832 Schutz # 9830 Werner + Revelations # 9932

www.brazilianfootwear.com

19 - 21 September 2012 Javits Center

BRASIL FASHION ABEST - The Brazilian Association Of Fashion Designers commercial@abest.com.br | www.abest.com.br phone + 55 11 3256 1655 | fax 55 11 3255 9053 ABICALÇADOS - Brazilian Footwear Industries Association bf@brazilianfootwear.com.br | www.brazilianfootwear.com phone +55 51 3594 7011 | fax: +55 51 3594 8011 APEX-Brasil – Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency www.apexbrasil.com.br 55 34 phone: + 61 26 0202 | fax: +55 61 3426 0263

www.abicalcados.com.br

www.apexbrasil.com.br

Breaking

news

The Shanghai Surge!

The biggest international coup that a show could possibly make has just happened—ENK International acquired the exclusive rights to operate fashion tradeshows during Shanghai Fashion Week, making it the biggest American player in that market.

ENK International president Tom Nastos gives us the skinny.

BY MARIA DENARDO

Tom Nastos, president, ENK International

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. c o m

Tom, how did ENK accomplish this incredible feat?

ENK International expanded into Asia two years ago when we launched a fashion pavilion called ENKChina within the Chic Tradeshow in Beijing during Beijing Fashion Week. In addition to Beijing, we’ve been looking into Shanghai. We’re proud to announce that we’ve formed a joint venture company with The Shanghai Textile Development Corporation Ltd. We now have the exclusive rights to all fashion tradeshows during Shanghai Fashion Week.

What’s the new tradeshow called?

Previously, it was called Mode Shanghai. We haven’t decided if we’re going to make any changes or additions to the name at this point.

When will it be held?

It will take place twice a year in the third week of March and the end of October.

Why Shanghai?

It’s one of those beautiful cities with a long, illustrious history.

It’s synonymous with glamour,

fashion, and nightlife. It’s the pearl of Asia! Look at someone like Uma Wang.

She’s a Shanghai-based designer working with Theory. You can see how dynamic the marketplace is already.

Who owned the rights to the tradeshows previously?

It was primarily owned by the city before.

Now, our goal is to build Shanghai into another fashion capital.

How many brands do you expect?

Last year, there were about 300 brands— half of those were international, and half were Asian brands. This year, we’re targeting close to 400 brands with the same 50/50 ratio.

How would you compare Mode Shanghai to ENKChina?

It’s going to be a typical ENK show with all the amenities and market research that you’ve come to know and love at ENK. How does ENK plan to expand in the next few years?

We’re focused on Shanghai right now, but we’re getting a lot of interest from Europe and Japan for future growth. Stay tuned!

a l l p h o t o s c o u r t e s y; s h u t t e r s t o c k

Booth #5404

www.shop-alexis.com

VIEW THE Wi sh COLLE CTION BO O TH 5430 +1 917 215 9055 | emma@wish.com.au fb.com/wish.xoxo

BOOTH # 4311 www.joycioci.com

Rose Pierre Sparkling Sea Cuff House of Harlow necklace

Retailer Dish

With Leonard Gorski, owner Booth: 6741, Level 3

With Lee Lenox, director of sales, GLAMHOUSE Booth: 1208, Level 1

Which designers are you showcasing this season?

Glamhouse will be showcasing jewelry from House of Harlow 1960, Low Luv and A.L.C. We’re most excited about debuting our house collection, Rose Pierre, also launching Spring 2013.

Thoughts on body harnesses?

Rose Pierre Island We love a body chain! It’s Adventure Collar one of those pieces that necklace make a woman look and feel feminine, sexy, and delicate. It can really work an outfit without putting in much effort.

What are the big jewelry trends to watch for?

Big, chunky, ornate pieces that reference the Baroque era. They’re definitely popular on the runways and street this season. Rose Pierre works this trend well with the Island Adventure collar necklace in ivory resin. It’s a statement piece with an interesting shape that will complete any look, day or night. Unique materials like fish hooks and crystals also work their way into this on-trend and eclectic collection.

Which fashion personality has the best taste in jewels?

Nicole Richie. She’s incredible at incorporating vintage and contemporary styles into her look through jewelry. A great example is how she wears a piece of fine jewelry that belonged to her mother and pairs it with a piece from her House of Harlow 1960 collection. Perfection!

Any obsessions at Glamhouse?

The Rose Pierre Triton pendant necklace paired with anything leather and Céline!

A vintage Chanel bag from ISAAY.com

your daily dose scene & HEARD

Peter Som news! Earnest Sewn (Booth 7920, Level 3) has joined forces with the designer for a complete capsule collection which is expected to be a big hit with buyers this season!...Where’s the party at?

Frankie B.’s very own Daniella Clarke will have not one but two cocktail parties this week. First up? Beauty & Essex tonight and Stanton Social on Thursday evening.

Not on the list? Hit up her Booth 8219, Level 3 darlings and you just might!

House of Harlow ring and necklace

SHOP TALK! With Seth Campbell, chief brand officer, ISAAY.com

What is your role at ISAAY.com?

I’m the chief brand officer, so I oversee all creative. I direct and work closely with our creative team on the visual site design, as well as our marketing team. I also spend a large portion of my time working alongside our VP of merchandise and the buying team to curate the product available on ISAAY. com as well as cultivating relationships with new designers.

You don’t have a booth at Coterie, so how do you spend your time at the show?

I spend most of my time going through each booth and selecting product that we’d like to buy for the site. I am always on the lookout for new brands and enjoy chatting with designers on what they are working on and what they are excited about for the upcoming season.

How many brands showing at Coterie are sold on the site?

There are around 100 that are eiFA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

GETTING TO KNOW GORSKI!

ther currently on ISAAY.com or will be coming to the site very soon. We are constantly expanding our portfolio of designers!

Which brands are you excited to see?

I’m excited to check out the Alice + Olivia booth—Stacey Bendet is a personal friend of mine, and I love her brand.

I’m also looking forward to seeing VINCE and what they have coming up for Spring 2013, we are huge fans of VINCE at ISAAY.com!

How does ISAAY.com differ from other online retailers?

The amount of time our team spends carefully curating the lines. We tell stories through the site, and a close attention to detail is spent on the merchandising of product. We are also Looks sold on expanding to target an interISAAY.com national consumer. We ship internationally to over 90 countries, and in the very near future will have sites in multiple languages.

What’s your story?

I’m a fur industry fashion veteran, and a leading Canadian creator of luxury and modernist furs, fur accessories, and fine fur-trimmed outerwear. Most of our fashion products are produced in controlled quantities, and they’re tailored to cater to high-end specialty stores and their discerning customers. I have a fantastic passion for anything related to design, style, and beauty.

I love natural fabrics such as silk and cashmere, but fur is my fabric of choice!

Details on your latest collections, please!

Young in spirit, rich in appearance, effortless in feel—what today’s woman wants to wear!

For my 2012/2013 collections, I went with a modern fit and a mix of fur and fabric textures.

My shapes are more tailored, but we also offer the allimportant spectrum of capes, ponchos, vests, and shrugs.

My choice of colors are earth tones, rich Grigio, shades of espresso and latte with bold borders, grape navy, electrical sky, Rosso, and forest. Animal prints are important, too. I worked closely with my team in Montreal and long-time collaborators in Veneto, Milan, and Florence.

What else is new?

Last fall, we launched the GORSKI Après-Ski collection, driven by my daughter Lauren Gorski. Made in Italy with much care and attention, it is full of sophisticated, modern cuts. A favorite is the piumini puffy jacket cut in timeless winter colLeonard Gorski ors such as latte, espresso, terra, fango, and noce or nero, each trimmed in rich Scandinavian fox and embellished with fine nappa leather. The collection is sold at the finest specialty stores, and the better ski and resort shops.

Why have furs become such a major component of runway shows in recent years?

There are no serious runway shows in New York, Paris, Milan, or Shanghai that do not start or end with furs, fur trim, shearling, or fur accessories. We serve younger aspiring consumers who embrace fashion.

We see a strong demand for luxury products where fur is the most visible fabric, adding cachet, glamour, and value.

How is the industry growing?

As an industry, we have seen tremendous worldwide growth in the past 10 years, even while general retailing has seen its challenges.

In North America, a mild winter in some regions led consumers to buy newer and smaller items such as vests, capelets, or better après-ski pieces with fur trim.

Are you using any new technology?

We treat fur as fabric— we dye, knit, weave, layer, and even perforate!

What are your expectations for the current season?

A strong demand for fur anything!

A ll p hotos courtesy

Catherine Malandrino

your daily dose SOCIAL CHATTER! With Jia Li, designer, Jia Collection

What’s on deck for Spring?

Elizabeth Taylor going to French Riviera—a confident and glorious woman who embraces the outdoors, sunshine, and ocean.

Describe your collection in one sentence.

Versatile, comfortable, chic-quality pieces that you can easily reverse or convert to create a variety of different looks and wear for various occasions.

What inspired you to start your own line?

Modern, busy women who are always on the go! We have to have pieces that can easily go from day to night, from home to travel. We give women a lot of options without having to buy a lot of pieces.

What is your Fall 2012 must-have?

Our ‘Margaret’ wool/cashmere reversible coat with leather trim—one side is grey, the other side camel (another option is one olive green side and one grey side). It goes with everything and keeps you really warm and stylish.

Any current obsessions?

Kruder & Dorfmeister’s music and New York artist Craig Fisher’s paintings. I also recently saw the movie The Intouchables, a story about the improbable friendship between a rich disabled man and his live-in caretaker.

Any post-Coterie plans?

Vacation, vacation, vacation!

The Amalfi Coast [Italy] and Iceland are on top of our list. For an appointment call Edite Showroom at (212) 967-0202.

scene

Catherine Malandrino (Booth 4104, Level 1) is launching swimwear! She describes the new line as “a sporty American attitude that blends with French royalty. It’s light, poetic, graphic, and energetic.”…

Sarah Pacini designer Naila Jaffer’s Spring collection is called The Dance of Life. “The starting point of the collection is all about dance and movement—shape, line, and gesture.

It’s a perfect balance of strength and softness. It is airy and structured, flowy yet precise.” To see the full collection, hit Booth 5900, Level 3…Crème Fraîche will be doling out chocolate-covered strawberries at Booth 3632, Level 1…

See by chloÉ joins coterie!

SHOE MOMENT!

MUSIC MOMENT!

Sarah Pacini Spring 2013

With Haute Hippie designer Trish Wescoat Pound Booth: 3300, Level 1

So, what kind of music does your customer love?

From Billie Holiday to Billy Idol, from Johnny Cash to David Bowie and Mick Jagger. She is a modern flapper, enjoying life to the fullest and loving all the splendors it has to offer. She embodies the spirit of a “Glitterati” girl from Studio 54, with the wild spirit of an untamed horse.

What book or movie do you recommend?

The Great Gatsby is one of my favorite movies—the film’s carefree decadence, opulent lifestyle, and twenties fashion is a reoccurring theme within many of Haute Hippie’s collections, particularly with our embellished dresses and ballgowns.

Daphne, $225

With Rachel Roy, Sole Booth: 9608, Level 3

Loving your new shoe collection!

Shoes have always been a passion of mine, so a collection was the natural next step for the brand. I believe shoes should be strong and sexy—that’s an important balance. The collection captures the spirit of the brand—clean silhouettes with architectural heels and material mixing.

What was the inspiration behind this shoe collection?

Shoes have always been special to me—they were one of the first luxury pieces that I began investing in.

The right shoe instantly makes me feel confident and sexy, and I wanted to be able to bring that to my woman.

Where would you never wear your shoes?

On the beach!

You always rock cool jewelry—what are your current fixations?

Hand and body chains from Jacquie Aiche.

How do you survive Coterie right after Fashion Week?

I’m running on adrenaline by this point!

Any post-Coterie plans?

Sleep, and a good meal at ABC Kitchen. And perhaps some sun on my body if I am lucky!

Fawn, $295

Moments after gracing the New York runway, See by Chloé (Booth 4004, Level 1) is showing for the first time at Coterie! What to expect? The brand’s signature “it” pieces, like ultra-supple knits, high-waisted trousers, amd boyish jackets with a California desert inspiration. (Expect colors like fuschia and blood red to accent nude and terracotta.) The brand is even rolling out accessories, so don’t miss the pointed pumps and flats in metallic leather at Sole Booth 9602, Level 3.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

all ph o t o s c o u r t e s y

All the scoop from

Breaking

ENKVEGAS!

news

ENKVEGAS proved to be an incredible success for retailers, editors and exhibitors alike. Editors noted trend-setting brands—think VBN, Sol Angeles, J Brand, Hudson, WRK, Joie and Closed—in posts, writings and social media mentions.

In attendance at the show, were editors from GQ, Esquire, Elle, Sportswear International, WWD, Glamour, InStyle, and Teen Vogue! Among the show highlights were Hudson Jeans’ 10th Anniversary celebration as well as the opening party in partnership with REVGRP and ENKVEGAS and the Flaunt Magazine lounge featuring their latest Denim Issue where they served up a happy hour (how Vegas appropriate!) which drove traffic to their grooming station and surf inspired brands.

Sol Angeles’ Andi Vance on THE VEGAS Community!

The Vegas Strip...

...and the scene inside!

VBN Menswear Talks Atmosphere!

A contemporary brand targeting 25 to 45-year-old men who are sophisticated, influential and socially and environmentally conscious.

How long have you been exhibiting with ENK? Two seasons, and we’re never looking back. This show is perfect for us!

What was your favorite thing about ENKVEGAS? It’s a very professional yet easygoing show where buyers come to write orders and talk business.

ENK also caters to their exhibitors with cushy hors d’oeuvres, breakfast, good music and an attractive environment.

What keeps retailers coming back season after season?

The level of exhibitors that show at ENK as well as the ability to escape from the riffraff!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. c o m

The unisex line of weekend wear that’s engineered to withstand rigorous cocktails, sleepovers and racket sports, has already graced the pages of Nylon, GQ, People, Men’s Fitness and top fashion blogs.

How long have you been showing at ENK? Eight seasons now!

What’s your favorite part of the experience?

The clientele it attracts. We truly see the stores that we want and need to see. Also, our buyers give us pleasant feedback about ENK. We are constantly advised that it is the easiest to shop, and that it truly showcases clothing and eliminates the organizational “clutter” of a tradeshow.

What was the scene at your booth?

We brought our Resort 2012 and Spring 2013 collections, the classic Sol Angeles selling spirit, bright colors and new textures, and last but not least, the engaging attitude needed for a Vegas tradeshow.

PASTE’S JASON LAURITS ON THE NIBBLES! Jason Laurits, who started the casual tee shirt brand Paste, has been showing with ENK for four years now. He reflects on the past couple of seasons.

What makes ENKVEGAS work so well?

It’s well-edited and a very simple, clean show. I think it’s easy to show as an exhibitor and to walk as a buyer.

What keeps retailers coming back season after season?

The breakfast! Just kidding. It’s consistently a good show. The ENK crew is always working hard to present a great show. It always seems to run flawlessly.

Sales galore!

AGAVE’S JEFF SHAFER ON THE BOUTIQUE FEEL! Founded in 2002 by Jeff Shafer, Agave has become a must-have for the denim connoisseur looking for quality, luxury and authenticity. Designed

in Portland, made in Los Angeles, Agave has expanded to include selvage denim, luxury knits and wovens, a whole range of non-denim jeans, casual pants and a women’s collection designed

by Lauren Shafer, Jeff’s wife.

How long have you been exhibiting with ENK? We’ve done all the ENK shows—ENKNY, ENKVEGAS and Coterie—for years now. All the shows have been great platform for us. We see the right people and ENK always puts together an amazing show with great designers and exhibitors as well as the right buyers.

What was your favorite thing about ENKVEGAS? ENKVEGAS provides a boutique sophisticated environment that attracts the right buyers. Everyone always loves to come to ENKVEGAS because of the way it’s put together and they feel it’s more of a relaxed atmosphere where everyone can do business easily.

USA Made and Vintage inspired?

Sign us up! Sandast co-owner Chris Pak on his ENK Vegas Experience!

Sandast’s sole mission is to bring the best-looking, top quality vintage inspired bags seen today.

How long have you been exhibiting with ENK? It has been only one season and two shows, and we certainly plan to come back!

What was your favorite thing about ENKVEGAS? There are so many things that I want to rave about the show, but the most incredible thing about it is that the buyers actually walk the entire show, so if you are a new brand with the talent, ENK is definitely the show for your brand.

What do you think keeps retailers coming back season after season to ENKVEGAS? A friendly atmosphere, great venue, great ENK staff, and great brands. As a previous exhibitor in all other shows, I can tell from my experience that ENK is just cooler!

All the Scoop on ENK CHILDREN’S CLUB! Taking place at the Javits Center from October 2123, the Children’s Club show will highlight smaller, contemporary brands as well as more traditional ones. Another focal point: higher end lines will cater to more specialty stores. Children’s Club will also highlight the eclectic mix of brands showing—infants to toddler to tweens.

T O M N A S T O S c o u r tes y O F

Haute List

Who’s

SHOW NG Hobo

Do you know your Coterie + Sole Commerce neighbors? Stop by and visit!

ZOE COUTURE Zoe Zhang, designer Booth: 6337, Level 3 What’s your Spring inspiration?

The sophisticated international traveler and exotic destinations—Greece and the Mediterranean Ocean inspired me this season.

Describe your collection in one sentence.

Every piece is wearable art.

What’s new this season?

We’ve developed novelty yarns, new textures, and a fresh color palette for our Spring 2013 collection. We’re also now introducing our featherweight cashmere group for early spring delivery, too. Beside our traditional silk/ cashmere-blend of super fine yarn, we added linen/silk yarn to our collection.

Of course, our unique hand-painting technique also blends in with the rest of our collection. Once the buyers put them on, they will be living in it!

What inspired you to start your own line?

My passion for design, and my family’s connection with the cashmere industry made my dream come true.

What is your Fall “must-have”?

The reversible cape with leather trim is the masterpiece in the Fall collection— chic, elegant, and timeless!

BELUVA Firuze, designer Booth: 6121, Level 3 What’s your Spring inspiration?

Flowers!

Describe your collection in one sentence.

It’s something different, but practical.

What’s new this season?

Asymmetric reversible jackets!

What inspired you to start your own line?

I was a retailer for many years before I started the Beluva collection. I noticed that I am always looking for something interesting, but practical in the market, and I can never find that exact thing, so I decided to start making things myself.

What is your Fall “must-have”?

Our long-sleeved shirt.

Any plans post-Coterie?

Champagne and partying every night!

What’s your favorite book recommendation this season?

Fifty Shades of Grey by E L James.

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i ly. c o m

ELIZABETH AND JAMES Mary-Kate & Ashley Olsen, designers Booth: 2304, Level 1 What’s your Spring inspiration?

MK: Our Spring ’13 inspiration evolved from photos of North Africa’s sunrise and sunset. Ashley and I were drawn to the beautiful colors.

What’s new this season?

MK: We’re excited about Elizabeth and James’ new jewelry collection.

We balanced natural materials like wood, ivory, and bone with delicate colored stones. The jewelry is the perfect complement to Elizabeth and James apparel, yet has its own point of view.

What is your Fall “must-have”?

MK: Smoking slippers are my goto shoe at the moment. They’re comfortable, easy, and look great with everything.

A: I’m living in the Textile Elizabeth and James cropped skinny Ozzy jean. It’s a flattering cut for everyone, and the length is perfect for petites.

Do you use social media to promote your brand?

A: Social media allows us to have a Elizabeth conversation with our customers, and James Spring 2013 which is especially exciting since runway. we’re a wholesale brand. It gives us the platform to create an environment for our inspiration and vision for Elizabeth and James. We value the feedback we get from our online community, and it’s so nice to be able to see their support and love for the brand.

photos courtesy of designers

2012 Jewelry Collection

Booth # 2304 Sales | Courtney@cloverc.com 212.633.4920 Press | pr@elizabethandjames.us www.elizabethandjames.us /ElizandJames

@ElizandJames

Haute List BLANK NYC Emmy Lauridsen, designer Booth: 9339, Level 3 What’s your Spring inspiration?

It’s all about new digital dimension in bright and whitened colors. There’s also seventies folk embroidery balanced with environmental serenity, executed in denims that are bleached and printed with colors manipulated in the wash cycle.

Describe your collection in one sentence.

Our collection is new, fresh, and easy to wear.

What’s new this season?

We’ll be introducing our version of engineered, digital-printed twills as well as diving into laundering our printing of vegan leather skinnies and jackets.

What inspired you to start your own line?

We started Blank NYC with the concept of a contemporary line at a lesser price, without compromising quality.

What sets your brand apart?

We are able to use higher-priced fabrics, while creating edgy styles and still keeping our product at an affordable cost and dependable quality.

What is your Fall “must-have”?

Flocked denim, for example, our ‘Spray On in Waldorf Wall’ design.

Any current obsessions?

Our super-soft stretch velveteen fabrics for Fall and Holiday 2012.

How do you achieve success at Coterie?

A good collection is a must of course, but also a successful previous season, a talented team, and customers loyal to Blank NYC. What’s your favorite movie recommendation this season?

Headhunters directed by Morten Tyldum.

AUTUMN CASHMERE Katherine Carpenter, design director Booth: 4909, Level 1 What’s your Spring inspiration?

The collection is an homage to California Surf culture.

From the modern sport element of wetsuit design that includes ‘carved’ armholes, zipper trims, mesh stitches, and pops of neon, to the softer side of the boho surf vibe, with pastels, fringe, and crochet being key features.

What’s new this season?

In addition to the collection’s fresh silhouettes, we’re also updating our basics with criss-cross backs and color blocking, as well as new dip-dye styles and scuba-inspired pieces.

What is your Fall “must-have”?

A great dark skinny jean with tuxedo stripes down the side; I’m on the hunt for a black denim with black pleather stripes.

Any current obsessions?

Besides my fashion obsession with uniform details, my most current obsession is Radiohead!

How do you achieve success fa s h i o n w e e k d a i ly. c o m

RONEN CHEN Booth: 5705, Level 3 What’s your Spring inspiration?

I think the names of my collections reflect my inspirations for this season. ‘Metropolis’ was inspired by city skylines and the geometric lines of Art Deco.

‘Savanna’ was born out of elements in the African savanna grasslands, while ‘Ocean Blue’ is a dream of deep skies and waters, and ‘Time Out’ is exactly that—designed for tanned skin and dreamy getaways.

What sets your brand apart?

We make clothing that women love to wear and that loves them back.

What is your Fall “must-have”?

The Janice Jacket of course, a military-styled soft jersey— sleek and comfortable with a sharply tailored feel. It has an artfully pleated lapel and high-collar that makes it a dramatic and empowering piece in any woman’s winter wardrobe.

Any current obsessions?

Instagram and ice cream.

Any plans post-Coterie?

To throw an opening party at my new (second) Ronen Chen concept store in North London, UK. What’s your favorite movie recommendation this season?

The Intouchables starring Francois Cluzet and Omar Sy.

at Coterie?

It’s a combination of a strong sales team, selling tools, and booth presentation. We look forward to seeing all of our current accounts, hearing what they love and what they are looking for in terms of trends and product. We also look forward to meeting new accounts and introducing new customers to our incredible product and customer service.

Do you use social media to promote your brand?

We have found social media to be an important medium to connect with our customers and retailers.

Facebook and Twitter are wonderful ways to share what’s going on in-house, in-store, and in the news.

Pinterest, Tumblr, and Instagram have allowed us to interact visually with those who not only love our product, but also the inspiration and ideas that contribute to the overall concept of our brand.

Any plans post-Coterie?

Trips to L.A., London, and Paris…and with any luck, Radiohead concerts in Europe!

What’s your favorite movie recommendation this season?

I’m obsessed with Paul Thomas Anderson, and I am anxiously awaiting The Master.

p h o t o s c o u r t es y o f des i g n e r s

WORLDLY. SMART. VERSATILE.

MEET THE ARTISAN.

SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT HOW OUR UNIQUE ARTISAN GARMENTS ARE MADE

Booth Location: Level 3, Hall 3E booth#6216

www.indigenous.com

Haute List WOODEN SHIPS BY PAOLA BUENDÍA Paola Buendía, designer Booth: 8840, Level 3 What’s your Spring inspiration?

Color! There are greens from the rice fields in Bali where we are based, blue from the Indian Ocean, and a myriad of colors from the tropical fruits there.

Describe your collection in one sentence.

From an asymmetrical pullover that slouches just so, to an airy and gossamer-soft wrap, Wooden Ships is about graceful, versatile, fresh, and effortless pieces with inherent style that are naturally flattering.

What inspired you to start your own line?

A desire to create and a love of beautiful things.

What sets your brand apart?

We start with the softest yarns and create easy-towear styles that are flattering and beautifully cut. We offer them at affordable prices and in a wide variety of colors. If you pursue quality in all things, everything else falls into place.

Any current obsessions?

Stripes and patterns.

Do you use social media to promote your brand?

We connect with our fans on our Facebook page where we post daily, from trend info, giveaways, and contests, to sneak peeks into the Wooden Ships lifestyle.

What’s your favorite book recommendation this season?

I was an English Literature major, so I’m always into several books at once. A few that I finished recently are The Glass Room by Simon Mawer, Freedom by Jonathan Franzen, and My Family and Other Animals

by Gerald Durrell.

HOBO Koren Ray, designer Booth: 8336, Level 3 What’s your Spring inspiration?

This Spring, we visit the creative, colorful side of American style with all of its grassroots charm. We’re inspired by colors that are bold and energetic, and vintage details that make ‘pretty’ so much fun!

Describe your collection in one sentence.

Our mood is bright and playful with vintage ‘spectator.’

What’s new this season?

After a test run last season, we’re getting serious about our small accessories collection. It’s a creative, quirky collection of leather bracelets and key chains in our bold, bright Spring colors at truly fun price points.

What inspired you to start your own line?

Our founder, Toni Ray, has a passion for cool designs and quality materials.

About 20 years ago, she saw a need for everyday handbags full of style and fa s h i o n w e e k d a i ly. c o m

PLANET Lauren Grossman, designer Booth: 6220, Level 3 What’s your Spring inspiration?

There’s a lot of white on white. I will be using several fabrications for a textural effect to create Planet’s signature layering concept.

Describe your collection in one sentence.

Planet is size-less, ageless, season-less—it’s clothing for every woman on the planet!

What inspired you to start your own line?

I went shopping and constantly saw the need for affordable apparel that can be worn both day and night, dress or casual, as well as being easily packable for today’s woman on the go.

What is your Fall “must-have”?

The comfortable, cozy, pima cotton sweater knit.

Do you use social media to promote your brand?

Planet utilizes Facebook as a means of social media with our retail customers all over the world. We also have a userfriendly website that shows the entire collection broken down by fabrication. It also shows how to layer and create different ways to put the pieces together.

Any plans post-Coterie?

Relax, relax, relax! And come off the adrenaline high of launching a Spring collection. I will return to Florida to do just that—relax.

What’s your favorite book recommendation this season?

Steve Jobs by Walter Isaacson.

packed with functional details.

What sets your brand apart?

Hobo is one of the country’s most fun and funky accessories brands.

Hobo is creative, original, and quirky.

Our heritage-hip brand philosophy builds innovative design and purposeful detail into each and every one of our quality products. We stand for color in a big way, too!

What is your Fall “must-have”?

Leather bracelets...lots of them!

Any current obsessions?

I have to admit that I am totally obsessed with finding cool, stylish ways to carry all my technology. This has led to some very hip Hobo tablet clutches and handbags.

How do you achieve success at Coterie?

A big, bold, confident presentation; offering fresh new color; looking different and creative.

photos courtesy of designers

Melissa carrying the Gabor

Spring 2013

present

One to

watch

!

Romanian wunder-lady Yoana Baraschi rocks a sexy look that’s been her brand’s signature. No wonder, then, that her next expansion stop is Paris. The Daily investigates!

BY ELIZABETH LANDERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY VITAL AGIBALOW

Yoana Goes

International

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

!

W

hat’s happened at your label since the last time we chatted?

We just hired a VP of sales to develop international markets. We are going to take our collection to Paris and start doing shows—not runway shows, but tradeshows. And perhaps also, presentations.

You’re coming up on your 10-year anniversary, how has the brand changed in those years?

It actually has not changed much. Most of it has stayed the same. I find that if you start something and the intent stays the same, it remains very strong. It’s actually going to materialize. When I started, I remember going to the contemporary floor at Saks and seeing all these career women at 7:30 p.m. who needed to look great and gorgeous at work. They were looking amongst racks of clothing that looked like they were designed for 22-year-old stylists who never buy their clothes. I wanted to dress those women.

What’s sexy?

That’s a very Daily question! Sexy is part of a woman’s arsenal. It’s very important. Looks are important, how you feel about yourself is important. It’s a certain type of magnetism that we all aim to have. It makes us more alive, it makes us more creative.

What’s the least sexy piece of clothing?

Fuzzy printed pajamas. They’re good until you’re 15 or 16-years-old, or if you live in a dorm with a bunch of girls, but past that….

So what do you wear to bed then?

In Paris, in the Bon Marché lingerie section, I found these little cotton baby doll night things with super skinny straps; I have turquoise, yellow, orange, and bright pink ones. They go in a little pouch and have that wrinkled fabric of cotton that’s fresh, yet unpretentious.

Sounds like you’re a Bon Marché shopaholic!

It’s funny, because the first thing I do when I land in Paris is have a coffee and then go straight to Bon Marché. I say, ‘I’m going to do some professional shopping.’ Inevitably I go to the lingerie section. You’re jetlagged and you need to get your head together, so I’d rather get my head together in the lingerie department. Start shopping there, don’t rush!

Inspiration for Spring 2013?

Happiness! It was all about keeping the colors very upbeat. The goal was to bring a certain amount of lightness­—everything had to be luminescent. There is one Led Zeppelin song called “In the Light” that really inspired me. The singer has a super sexy voice, and there’s an awakening that happens over the course of the song. I connected the collection to happiness, the light, and Led Zeppelin.

What do you try to gain from Coterie every year?

I’ve been doing this for the past 10 years, and I haven’t missed one Coterie or Intermezzo. I think as a designer, that’s pretty unique. Not all designers like that environment. I’m actually quite shy, so it’s not my cup of tea. But I take so much away from it. It’s invaluable experience. I get to talk to my customers and store

See the Spring collection at booth 3830, Level 1!

owners; that connection is real and direct. It’s really fed my work.

Have you ever had a customer come up to you and give you feedback that really stuck out in your mind?

There’s this store called Yvonne LaFleur in New Orleans that’s been in business for 30 years, and a lot of her clients are female lawyers. The women from the firm have this superstition that if you go to court in one of Yoana’s suits, you win the case! There’s a cult-like undercurrent of strong attachments to clothes. That’s a total turn-on. These kinds of stories made it worthwhile.

What have you been up to this summer?

My oldest daughter is going to college, and as her high school graduation present she wanted a trip to Greece because my mother was Greek and Swedish. We went to a non-fashion-y island in Greece because that’s what I like best. That’s a true vacation. We met some really amazing people. We’re kind of foodies, so for us it’s really important where we eat. To find the right fish place, we went to an island called Naxos, which has its own agriculture. We went to a village where we met this amazing guy who has a PhD in Voltaire, but he opened a restaurant where he cooks with local products.

It’s your typical Greek house and backyard with children dancing around. The food is so amazing; it’s done with this genuine, authentic quality. It’s made from the soul, and it feeds your soul.

Where is your brand sold right now?

We’re sold all over the world. We are starting to take the collection to Paris to sell it there, too. We have very interesting Middle Eastern customers because they like the luxe and colorful embroidery of the collection. In the States, we’re in Neiman Marcus, Saks, and 600 specialty stores. That’s essentially our business.

What’s your personal trademark style?

My personal style is very much connected to my work. I have to always wear a kind of wife-beater tank top like this, a pencil skirt, and heels. I try everything on over my clothes all day long. I can’t wear flowery dresses or white pants because I have to see the exact lengths, and how things look on the body. My staff has seen me change a million times.

What are you looking forward to for Fall?

I don’t really love the weather. I could live in heat all my life—I don’t even have AC in my bedroom! But for the Fall, I’m looking forward to going to Paris and buying my shoes there, and to shopping in New York at Jeffrey’s. It’s very uniform like that.

You’re not showing on the regular show circuit this season—why the change?

I feel like the shows have been extremely busy. The editors are being put through the wringer and they can’t possibly see everybody. Honestly, we will not be their first priority, and we want them to see the collection in a more intimate setting.

There has to be a reason to show.

One to click

Wondering when wholesale sales will become as tech-savvy as retail? Enter Mona Bijoor, who combined the best practices of sites like Facebook, eBay, and LinkedIn to create a gorgeously glossy online network, Joor, which connects brands with stores.

Wholesale revolution FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

BY MARIA DENARDO PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

W

hat was wrong with the pre-Joor wholesale model?

Nothing was wrong, per se, but it needed enhancement. Up until now, 99 percent of wholesale buying happened offline—retailers and brands were missing a digital channel to do business. Designers have focused a lot of energy on e-commerce for their consumer business, so why not turn to digital for wholesale as well?

How does Joor benefit brands who sell at tradeshows?

Our site helps our brands convert notes into orders after market, find new retailers, and schedule market appointments prior to the trade show.

During the show, our brands use the iPad app for taking orders. After the show, they use our site to follow up on notes and send order confirmations.

How does your iPad app work?

The iPad app gives you sales data at your fingertips, and allows brands to make accurate forecasts, too. Plus, the app doesn’t require WiFi to take orders! Use it at the shows, on the road, or in the showroom. Copies of notes and orders are sent to the retailer immediately via email, and you can see both top and underperforming styles, total units and dollars ordered, all in real-time. The ROI for our service is high: You save time and money while driving incremental business.

Is Joor hitting up the tradeshow circuit this season?

We have a couple hundred brands using our iPad app at market—and we are adding more each week. During the shows, our entire team is focused on supporting our brands. We create sales and marketing initiatives that help drive retailers to view their collections both online and offline during market. Personalized service is one of the cornerstones of our business; it’s what keeps our buyers and brands returning to Joor season after season.

What, exactly, do we find on JoorAccess.com?

Over 350 brands and 10,000 stores, for starters.

We think of ourselves as Facebook for the fashion community, where brands and retailers have their own profile pages. It’s a match-based system—you can choose to keep your profile public or private, and determine whether you want to accept or reject requests. For example, if a store wants to carry Thakoon, it can send the brand a request for access to all its information—linesheets, lookbook, immediates available for delivery, those sorts of things.

Where did you get this idea?

After I graduated with an MBA at the Wharton School of Business, I worked as a managing consultant with large private equity shops. Later, I worked for Elie Tahari and Chanel on the brand side, and A Pea in the Pod, and Ann Taylor as a buyer. Essentially, I got a full understanding of the pain points at all angles. I realized that a lot of those could be solved by creating a very easy-to-use, but private, marketplace.

How do you recruit members?

After we invite brands to join Joor, they allow their retailers to access their information on the site.

In order to do that, the store must provide certain information, like a vendor list and location details.

Provided that the store makes sense for our site and doesn’t dilute the network, we make it a mission to add them to our roster of retailers.

What’s the business model?

Joor charges a one-time membership fee and a small transaction fee for new business gained on the site. In exchange, brands get access to a growing visual directory of retailers, our iPad app for order intake, data analytics, and a platform to showcase line sheets, lookbooks, and press.

Who were some of your earliest adopters?

Steven Alan was among the first to get on board, joining the site before we even launched. Now, we work by word of mouth, and we’ve signed

brands like DvF, Thakoon, Escada, Yigal Azrouël, Erin Fetherston, and Rebecca Taylor. Out of about 250 applicants per month, we sign 20 to 30 brands.

So given the network effect, how many retailers are you adding?

About 500 to 600 retailers each month. And we’re really excited to work with designers like Bibhu Mohapatra, Misha Nonoo, and Jordan Wolk, who are all new to Joor.

How large is your staff?

We have 25 staffers with offices in Los Angeles and New York. Half of our staff consists of developers and tech experts who came from companies like Adobe and Travelocity. The other half is comprised of marketing and salespeople who have experience working for showrooms or retailers.

Who are your investors?

We’re backed by Battery Ventures, whose client list includes Skullcandy, Groupon, and Angie’s List.

We also have investors like Chris Burch’s business partner, Bill Smith, and Ken Landis, who co-founded Bobbi Brown Cosmetics.

How does Joor complement trade shows?

We love them! We’re not a replacement to a tradeshow or a showroom. We’re just another channel, and we attend all the shows to support our brands that rely on our iPad app.

How are you involved with the CFDA? We work closely at the membership level to offer thought leadership, like organizing panel discussions on how to expand sales and distribution networks. We also just welcomed several CFDA Incubator designers onto the platform at a minimal fee to help them gain exposure to the best retailers in the industry.

How’s the competition?

It’s welcome! It keeps us focused and makes sure we’re on our toes. Plus, it validates that this is the next big thing!

Luxe re-do

MAGASCHONI’S

New Look

Despite its status as one of the American fashion industry’s most beloved cashmere brands, Magaschoni decided it was time for an update. First things first: a brand new ad campaign, lensed by the legendary Gilles Bensimon and styled by Katie Mossman. Next up? The hiring of creative director Shaun Kearney, a veteran of MaxMara, Donna Karan, and Kenneth Cole.

Come behind the scenes as Magaschoni CEO Monica Forman spills her secrets! And see her latest looks at booth 4430, Level 1.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RACHEL BRENNECKE

W

hy did Magaschoni need a fresh Any surprises? approach?

Before the shoot, Gilles told me he wanted a Fashion is constantly evolving, and we need particular sweater in every color. On the day of the to keep evolving with it. Today, our customer shoot, he showed up and really got into the vibe wants to look modern and sophisticated, of Magaschoni. Every picture, he changed into a trying out great trends while maintaining a different color sweater! In fact, he wanted me to timeless elegance. Gilles Bensimon helped us make some of the women’s sweaters into men’s tap into that. for him.

How so?

What was your role during the shoot?

I can’t speak for Gilles, but I’ve been told by This is a secret, but I always bring extra looks to his assistant that he enjoys shooting still life, photo shoots because I’ve learned that stylists like flowers, as much as models. I watched him and design directors get upset with me because mush a pile of cashmere together and make it they think I ask for too much. So, I have a secret look like flowers! He captured our model every suitcase packed full of product waiting in the time. He always gets the shot. wings. Sure enough, Gilles sailed through the What was your first meeting like? looks, and it came in handy.

I first met Gilles when I had him over for Were you happy with the model? lunch. We broke bread together, and I fell She was beautiful! Actually, she was so excited in love with him because he’s such a real to work with Gilles, she went white at about person. He’s not affected by his fame. He’s 2 p.m. because she didn’t want to stop the shoot. seen everything. When I told people I just She wanted to keep working for him! That’s how shot with Gilles Bensimon, they were like, people are around him. When you enjoy what ‘Oh, excuse me!’ They’re so intimidated by his you’re doing, you know you’re going to have a name—I’m not. good result.

Is he a cashmere connoisseur?

What is your growth strategy?

Gilles Bensimon and Katie Mossman He loves cashmere, and he loves our sweaters!

We’re developing the ready-to-wear portion of prep for a campaign shot I went farming with him, and he even wore a the brand because we see so much potential in cashmere sweater on the farm! the market, and because our customer wants What did Katie Mossman add to the mix? offerings to complement the knitwear and Every stylist wants to shoot with Gilles. We had a slight hair trauma with the cashmere she’s come to know and love. We’re looking forward to developing our inmodel—Katie wanted one hairstyle, Gilles wanted another—but we worked it store shops in the best stores in the country and around the world. And we just hired out. They both took the high road, and we came to a happy place. Gilles played Shaun Kearney as our new creative director! I fell in love with Shaun’s sophisticated, Led Zeppelin and Aerosmith—good, hard rock. We were all dancing around effortlessly chic designs. He knows what stylish women want to wear. Our offices and getting down. are next to each other and we’re always going back and forth to share ideas.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

booth #6228

booth, #3632

EVERYTHING REVERSIBLE JIA COLLECTION www.jiacollection.com

Each of our designs is reversible or convertible so that you can wear it multiple ways.

To book an appointment: Edite Showroom. 212-967-0202. julia.simon@edite.us

B OOTH # 6234 SPRING 2013 COLLECTION

JAVITS LEVEL 3 HALL 3E

Chic boss

The World According to Bud In 1982, fashion exec Bud Konheim and his in-house designer Nicole Miller struck out on their own to launch the latter’s eponymous brand. These days, she’s a household name all over the globe. As the industry searches for its next big success story, who better than Konheim to share his tricks of the trade over a chicken salad at his Garment District lunch spot? P.S. Check out Coterie booth 4404, Level 1 for Miller’s latest looks!

BY ASHLEY BAKER PORTRAIT BY GIORGIO NIRO fa s h i o n w e e k d A i l y. c o m

Bud Konheim at Nicole Miller’s Seventh Avenue HQ

H

ow long have you been coming to Arno’s?

Oh, 25 or 30 years, and I’ve never made a reservation. The singing waiter breaks up every conversation, and it’s annoying as hell when you have 20 minutes for lunch, but the food is actually pretty good.

The real problem is the decoration, which is mama’s-fromPalermo, but American-style.

So how did you hook up with Nicole?

I’ve been selling since I was seven-years-old. I had a family fashion business called P.J. Walsh, and in 1975, I found myself looking for a new designer. I had spent six months thinking of the interview for the position. It started out with a pile of fabrics on a table—most of them bad, a few of them good—and I asked all 170 candidates to pick out something they’d want to work on. Some interviews would end there. Then, I asked them to sketch, which is really the language of a designer. The last question was this: Other than making more money, which everyone wants to do, what would give you satisfaction in this job? And then

Nicole showed up.

And what was Nicole’s answer?

‘I want to see everybody wearing my clothes.’ Which was exactly what I wanted! She was my designer for 5 years until we decided to partner and launch the Nicole Miller brand in 1982.

What are the guiding principles of your business?

I don’t have any tenets, we go from day to day to day.

I don’t believe in demographics, political polls, any of that stuff. When we first started out, I said to Nicole, “Why don’t you design for yourself, and I’ll find enough women who share your aesthetic, and that’ll be the business. If that’s 12 people, we’re going to have a small business. If it’s 12 million, then we’ll be big!” Designing just based on a demographic study is not designing. That’s offensive to me. I don’t want to take advice from stores, either.

So what is a real designer?

Someone who cannot accept the status quo and who hates what’s out there. If the architect loved the grass hut, we’d never have the Empire State Building!

How do you maintain the energy after all these years?

We always feel like we’re being chased. We’re in a fashion war, and it’s non-stop.

Are you afraid of making mistakes?

No! If you make them early, you may have the opportunity to fix them. If you wait to chase the idea and make the mistake late, you’re out of time.

Is there anything you’re afraid of?

Failure to adapt. Look at the Internet world with all the techies—average age, 12. Failure to adapt would be to say the Internet doesn’t matter. No! It does!

How important have department stores been to the business?

Marginal. Nicole is designing for a customer. Department stores make up demographic stories—this department is for the millennials, this is for the centennials!—but they don’t have an idea about who the customer really is. It’s the difference between collectivism and individualism, really.

When a specialty store comes in, the owner buys for Alice, Jane, and Susan. The buyer has a certain taste level, and she really has confidence in what she’s ordering. She’s also looking for the next thing, instead of the classics that department stores rely on.

So what were you thinking in 2005, when you launched Nicole by Nicole Miller at JCPenney.

At first, it scared the hell out of me! The last guy to sell JCPenney was Halston, and the second he sold there, he was dumped by all of his high-end customers and he went out of business. But at JCPenney, they had identified the missing middle—a woman like yourself, who wasn’t a kiddie anymore, but who didn’t want to dress like something out of The Grapes of Wrath, either.

I said to Nicole, ‘I don’t know how we’ll ever sell all of America, because they can’t hit our prices, and I don’t want to start a whole other organization. But this could be an option!’ The quality of the design is the same, but we had to compromise on materials.

How did you avoid a Halston-esque fate?

We went to Neiman Marcus and said, ‘Look, here’s a beautiful hand-crocheted ivory dress.

It costs $3,500. We’re going to let you run it in your ad in Vogue.’ Nobody knew about the JCPenney thing yet. The Vogue ad ran in January, and in February, at the Academy Awards, JCPenney announced Nicole by Nicole Miller, and nobody said a word. Not a word!

How has your competition changed over the years?

I was giving a speech, and during the Q&A session, someone asked me about ‘competitors like Marc Jacobs.’ I’d be happy to be competing against Marc Jacobs—he’s a real designer! These days, we’re competing against people who don’t

actually make anything—Kim Kardashian, Paris Hilton, porno stars! Jessica Simpson?

What’s her design talent?

Ha! Any plans to delve into menswear?

Yes! We’re launching it for fall 2013. The designer of the men’s collection is straight and cute, and all the girls in the office love him.

Was that the only reason for the launch? [laughs] No! Do we need another business? Who needs anything! At this point, we do what we want to do.

You’ve been advertising in the glossies for decades. How have things changed?

An important shift happened in 2007, when consumers became motivated by advocacy instead of just brand awareness. That’s where the Internet came in. For example, I do a lot of hunting, so when I go online to Bass, Orvis, or Beretta to buy something, where do I look first? The reviews! Advertising now has got to come with some kind of advocacy component.

And in addition to a pretty picture on the page, the magazine needs content that’s going to engage the reader. Just pushing pictures? Not working.

Is online a better place to spend money?

Not necessarily; we still do a little bit of everything.

There’s such a tremendous amount of dust in the air, it’s hard to find clarity about what’s motivating people to do anything. But the amount of time spent on the Internet is unbelievable! Nobody is working anymore. We used to get pissed off about personal phone calls? What about personal Internet use! Go to any office in Manhattan, and you’ll see most people spending the day shopping or talking to their friends on Facebook!

Why do you and Nicole get along so well after all these years?

When we first got together, she said, ‘Treat me like a partner, not like an employee.’ I said, ‘OK!’ I have incredible respect for her as a designer, a business person, and a person. She has a character that’s second to none. I aspire to have many of her traits myself. We don’t cheat or dump on our employees, and we don’t break contracts!

Nicole Miller’s first runway show in 1990

Bud and Nicole, circa the birth of the brand

ins e t s : c o u r t e sy nic o l e mi l l e r

Booth nr: 6825

www.ewaiwalla.se Coterie NY.indd 1

2012-08-31 09:38:07

Tel: 954.578.5687 Fax: 954.578.4431 info@iftheplanet.com www.iftheplanet.com

Booth 6120

SHOWROOMS CHICAGO  L.A.  DALLAS

ANNE ER ID FULENW N IO IT ED

Chic-Overs

Now that she’s running Marie Claire, this editrix is practically required to step up her style game. No need to fear the spotlight, chérie!

Thom Browne Karen Walker Rag & Bone

Marc Jacobs

Carolina Herrera Marc by Marc Jacobs

w!

For the Front Ro

h Carey!

For Meetings wit

You’ll be seated next to Nina Garcia, and needless to say, your peers are watching.

Let your fash flag fly!

Tailored jackets, a touch of menswear, and a smattering of animalier must replace your go-to LBD. Unless it’s Givenchy!

Hervé Léger

by Max Azria

Rodarte

Rag & Bone

Marc Jacobs

Libertine

Alexander Wang

Jason Wu

e Town! th n o t h ig N a r o F Quit blushing. You’ve got great arms, says JoCo, and un peu de sexy will serve them well. And don’t let those gams remain an unknown quantity!

d a i l y f r o n t r o w. c o m

!

For the Weekend This is your time to experiment. Will you evolve into Lynn Yaeger muse-dom, or are you more of a Virginie Mouzat? Just do as you tell your readers: Have fun with fashion! g ett y (4) Patri c k m c m ullan . c o m ( 1 ) edward j a m e s ( 1 ) F ir s t v iew ( 5 ) Vital ag i b alow ( 3)

Photography by Tyler Goldfarb

SEASONAL WHISPERS 71 MURRAY STREET UNIT #1 NEW YORK NY 10007 TEL 212-233-8663 FAX 212-233-8661

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Booth 4430