The Daily Coterie

the

September 20, 2015

w o r t n fro

coterie +sole commerce

WHITE fashion HAUTE SEASON ZAC POSEN

co te r ie bo oth #4114 wholesale@calypsostbarth.com

www.c a l y p s o s t b a r t h . c o m

[ S/S 16 ]

COT ERIE B O O T H 2923 W W W. L E O A N D S A G E . C O M / @ L E O A N D S A G E / S A L E S @ L E O A N D S A G E . C O M / 2 1 2 . 9 5 1 . 0 8 5 0

FO R A L L I N Q U I RI ES : S A LES @ K AY GO S S . C O M

TMRW @ Coterie Booth # 4832

the

GRAND RE-ENTRY! With Elie Tahari

Alice + Olivia Booth: 3010

Why did you decide to return to Coterie?

The line has changed so much, and a lot of people aren’t familiar with the new product.

It’s a great way to introduce it to people who don’t come to New York Fashion Week.

How is the collection different?

Elie Tahari It’s very fluid and Booth: 4220 has a lot of texture, with lace, suede, and embroidery. It’s very specialized and much more feminine.

How do you stay inspired?

New York inspires Elie Tahari me. You walk onto the and Beverly Johnson street and you see the way that women dress or their attitude, and so many different kinds of people and nationalities.

How did you celebrate Elie Tahari Day on September 4?

We had the benefit party for the company in the showroom to show the new line!

Brandusa Niro

Editor in Chief, CEO Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director

your daily dose Custo Barcelona Booth: 7014

SCENE

☛ Spotted at New York Fashion Week: The darling students of Berkeley College were on-site handing out The Daily Front Row! The business-based fashion program is introducing a semester system, adding courses like Interactive Fashion Communications for how to build branded content, and offering a wider variety of internship opportunities. ☛ Keep your eyes peeled for Tom Ford and Balenciaga Eyewear (both at Booth 2814)!

RETAIL WATCH! With Brookfield Place’s Callie Haines

A Moment with...

Sam Ku, President and Creative Director of AG What’s new with AG? Alexa Chung and Sam Ku The biggest change is our Booth: 5001 follow-up fall collection for the Alexa Chung collaboration, with a lot more categories—sweaters, silk blouses, and a whole suede group.

How did you choose Alexa Chung as a collaborator?

We were tossing around ideas and types of personalities. Alexa came up early in the conversation. The fact that she has such style credibility, and such a unique sense of style was a big part of what drew us to her. I think she does her denim in a unique way.

How involved is she?

She was very involved from the start. If we were too heavy-handed in the design process, it would remain too “AG” and not enough “Alexa Chung.”

What does Brookfield Place offer compared with other downtown retail spots?

We have a unique mix of amenities here. We have the waterfront, and we’re so close to so many subways.

What was the highlight of the summer?

Our Hudson Music Festival. With the retail opening in March, it was almost treated as an opening event.

What has traffic been like?

It’s a neighborhood spot right now, and that’s what we really intended it to be.

When construction on West Street is done, it will be easier for tourists at the 9/11 Memorial to visit.

EXHIBITORS’ SLEEP SECRETS! “I don’t have a regular sleep schedule—I tend to wake up and go to bed at all hours depending where in the world I am. I’m definitely more of a night person than a morning person, and I feel most creative and productive when most people are asleep. I love my Pratesi sheets from Wilkes Bashford.”

—Pamella Roland (Booth: 10204) FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

front row

“It’s never enough! Although I’ve gotten very lucky with my kids—they used to wake up between 6 and 6:30, but they started sleeping longer. I’ve been getting to sleep in until 8:15, unless I work out, in which case I’m up at 7. I finally collapse at the end of the day once they’re in bed. I always play ocean sounds to help them fall asleep, and it’s actually helped me, too! My sheets are John Robshaw & Roberta Roller Rabbit.”

—Rebecca Minkoff (Booths: 4607, 5007)

fashion collab alert!

With Brian Robinson, head of creative for design and development, DreamWorks Animation

How did the CFDA/ Amazon partnership with DreamWorks come about?

We’re always looking for new ways to tell stories with our characters, and fashion— and the amazing ecosystem that surrounds it—serves as its own form of “content” with its own built-in content channels. CFDA approached us about supporting the first men’s week, and we jumped at the opportunity to bring DreamWorks characters to life in a unique way. We developed this Character Clash concept.

How did you select the designers for the collaboration?

We needed an eclectic group of designers who would bring their unique aesthetics to their designs.

“I have a super strong circadian rhythm, so I never really set an alarm unless I have a 4 a.m. call time. My body wakes up a minute before the alarm if I do set one—it just knows. I definitely function best on eight hours and don’t really feel like myself with less.”

—Mara Hoffman (Booth: 5110)

Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Reporter Sydney Sadick Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists Neal Clayton, George Maier Editorial Assistant Kassidy Silva

Mark Tevis Publisher

Fashion & Luxury Goods Director Chloe Worden Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Marketing Director Anna Lombardi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor

To advertise, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: mark@dailyfrontrow.com getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row

The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved.

Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

On the cover: Elisabeth Erm on the runway at the Zac Posen Spring 2016 show photographed by FirstView. bfa n y c . c o m ( 9 ) ; f i r s t v i e w ( 3 ) g e t t y i ma g e s ; a l l o t h e r s c o u r t e s y

COTERIE - BOOTH #3520

SEPTEMBER 19-21 Javits Center - NYC

USA HEADQUARTERS - LOS ANGELES - 213.489.3693 www.lancaster-paris.com

S p r i n g

S u m m e r

2 0 1 6

Showing at: Booths 7714 & 7815, LEVEL 3 COTER I E

NY + North East

Sue Lang

Molly Hurley 678 5961179

207 3639156

West Coast

J AV I T S

Jamie Prince

Mid West Julie Kipta 219 7621442

CENTER

213 6277136

Mid Atlantic

Janine Weil 212 7681016

South West Pamela Kramer 214 6308779

South East

Canada Euromax 514 2888001

Ronen Chen Head Office: +972 3 5188433 alexa@ronenchen.com Ronen Chen USA Office: 203 5574052 stacey@ronenchen.com

WHO’S Showing

Welcome to day deux of Coterie! If you missed them yesterday, be sure to stop by these booths today…

O MarchÉ SHOWROOM

Des Petits Hauts, Booth: 7410

Julie Vos Julie Vos, Designer, Booth: 3941

What is the one thing most people don’t know about you?

I have a masters degree in fiction writing.

Who is your social media crush?

Drawbertson, for being irreverent.

Who is your style icon?

Joni Mitchell, for her originality and profound beauty.

Who would you like to see wearing your designs?

Michelle Obama. Doesn’t everyone?

Norma Kamali

Norma Kamali, Designer and Owner, Booth: 3023 Who is your style icon?

Cary Grant.

What is your favorite way to celebrate?

Dance hard and long and sing hard and loud.

Who would you like to see wearing your designs?

Smart women who live real lives.

What is your favorite city to visit?

Barcelona…my father was Basque so I feel a strong connection.

What is the last thing you Googled?

The plant ingredient in aspirin.

What is the last movie you saw?

I rewatched Fahrenheit 451, my all-time favorite movie!

a l l p h o t o s c o u r t e sy o f t h e d e s i g n e r s

What inspired the Spring collection?

The opening of the 52nd store in Évora, Portugal.

What do you pull out of your closet when fall arrives?

A light quilted jacket and boyfriend jeans.

What’s next for your brand?

Developing the U.S. market.

Where do you like to have a quiet moment in NYC? A quiet street in Brooklyn.

What is your favorite way to celebrate?

With a bottle of champagne.

What’s your favorite material to work with?

Natural materials.

What’s unique to your designs?

There is a philosophy behind the look instead of just creating items of clothing.

How would you describe the woman who wears your brand?

Smart!

MaTtHildUr

Matthildur Halldorsdottir, Designer, Booth: 1930

What inspired the Spring collection?

Safari, adventure, wilderness, new horizons, open skies, and freedom.

What’s your favorite material to use?

Pima cotton. It’s the ideal fabric to design cool, easy-to-wear shapes.

What’s your signature in your designs?

My asymmetrical sweater, which is reinvented every season in different yarns.

Who is the woman who wears your designs?

A woman with self-confidence and a sharp sense for unconventional style.

What do you carry in your purse at the shows?

Peruvian dark chocolate. Yummy!

What do you listen to while you design?

Sigur Rós.

What’s next on your list of places to travel to?

Myanmar and Bhutan.

What’s in store for the brand?

I want to emphasize the Peruvian know-how in the handmade finishing of the garments: stitching, embroidery, and refined techniques that enrich the pieces and make them unique.

Who would you like to see wearing your designs?

Tilda Swinton.

PROMOTION

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

who’s Showing

Eric Javits Eric Javits, Designer, Booth: 3621

Eugenia Kim

Eugenia Kim, Designer and Owner, Booth: 3823 What is your favorite trend for Fall 2015?

I’m super excited that fur is such a huge trend for our Fall/Winter collection. We have fur trim on everything from mink poms on our Honey wide-brim felt floppy to mink trim on our Daria pump. If you want to go full fur, we have fox troopers, colorblocked scarves, and rabbit aviator caps.

How would you describe the woman who wears your brand?

She is a strong, confident, and intelligent individual with a left-of-center sense of style and humor.

Where do you enjoy quiet time in NYC? I love to play tennis or walk in the East River Park in the early morning.

Who is your dream collaboration?

Nike. There isn’t a lot of great tennis clothing out there that isn’t “Serenacized.” I would recreate it as a modernized ’20s look with drop waists and pastels and lots of white.

For high fashion, Prada and Miu Miu.

Mystique Yamin Levy, Designer, Booth: 3226

If you could make one trend disappear, what would it be?

Shaved side hair.

What is the story behind your brand?

After college I created my first hat for my friend Mimi to wear for a night at Studio 54. Club owner Steve Rubell happened to be at the door and ushered us in ahead of 200 others. Mimi looked so divine in my creation that I was inspired to continue.

Who was your mentor?

My grandmother. She was a painter and also a milliner who designed for the Schuberts in the 1920s.

What’s unique to your designs?

I have developed the design-patented Squishee fabrication. It’s a man-made material that outperforms natural fiber; it’s durable, lightweight, packable, and sun protective.

Likely

Miss Likely, Brand Muse, Booth: 2126 Who is your dream collaboration?

I would love to team up with a nail polish brand (gel please!) to do matching nail colors in our full spectrum of colors.

What’s next for your brand?

Likely launched primarily as a dress concept. I’d love to take the Likely spirit and expand into sportswear.

Who’s your favorite model of the moment?

Gigi Hadid and Binx Walton.

What do you listen to while

What first inspired you to be a designer?

I was inspired by my first trip to Bali. There was a hotel called Mystique and I thought, my next venture will be called Mystique. I was inspired by the natural resources of the country, and on the flight home I decided that I was going to be a designer.

What inspired your Spring 2016 collection?

My daughters began working with me six months ago.

They inspire me and bring a younger perspective. They helped me to design a fresh and playful new collection.

Who is your style icon?

Giuseppe Zanotti.

Where can we find your collection globally?

You can find Mystique in specialty department stores like Harvey Nichols and hotel properties such as The Ritz-Carlton. We are mostly sold in mom-and-pop boutiques around the world. We like to promote family-run businesses.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

you design?

Elle King is my spirit animal.

What is your favorite way to celebrate?

With my girlfriends.

Who are some of your Instagram favorites?

Pink Peonies, @rachparcell, and @mister_krisp.

What is your favorite coffee shop in the neighborhood?

Blue Bottle Coffee at Gotham West Market. Each cup of pour-over coffee is brewed to order.

What is one thing most people do not know about you?

I give great advice. Seriously…ask me!

N12H

Nerissa Lee, Designer, Booth: 4247 What silhouette are you into for spring?

We are loving a cropped top paired with a loose bottom, like culottes.

Who’s your favorite model of the moment?

Joan Smalls. She’s not just a pretty face—she has her own amazing style and exudes confidence. She’s what every woman wants to be!

Where are you longing to travel to?

I would love to visit South America for inspiration for a Spring/Summer collection.

What category would you like to add next to your label?

Shoes are definitely something that I would love to do next!

Who would you like to see wearing your designs?

Supermodels like Cara Delevingne, Gigi Hadid, Jourdan Dunn, and Joan Smalls. They add their own style to everything they wear, and I would love to see how they style my clothes!

PROMOTION a l l p h o t o s c o u r t e sy o f t h e d e si g n e r s

S p r i n g 2 0 16 C OT ERI E : B O O T H 1 6 1 0

22 PRINCE STREET NEW YORK, NY

.

RAMYBROOK.COM

who’s Showing Kay goss Kay Goss, Designer, Booth: 4248

What’s new for Spring 2016?

I love the work of New York artist Jeremy Penn. His Pop Art interpretations of iconic images, Bardot in particular, inspired me.

Where are you from?

New Zealand.

Who’s your favorite model of the moment?

Georgia May Jagger.

What is your earliest memory of fashion?

A grand red-and-white striped ball gown my mother wore.

What’s your favorite material to work with?

Presently, lace and silk mesh.

Who would you like to see wearing your designs?

Amal Clooney and Rihanna.

Planet

Ipanema

What’s unique about your designs?

The silhouettes are flowing, soft, and flattering to “real” women’s bodies.

What do you do in your free time?

I have a condo on the beach in Hollywood, Florida. I go there on the weekends to just relax by the ocean, think, create, and reflect.

What is your favorite city to visit?

Manhattan is my all-time favorite!

What is your favorite season to design for?

Summer, of course! It’s what Ipanema is all about.

What is your favorite way to celebrate?

On the beach with family and friends.

What celebrities have worn the brand?

Too many to name all of them, but some include Angelina Jolie, Colin Farrell, Uma Thurman, and Suri Cruise.

What is your favorite city to visit?

I'll never get tired of visiting Rio de Janeiro.

Where are you from?

Farroupilha, in Rio Grande do Sul in southern Brazil.

What are you reading right now?

Ronaldo Fraga’s Notebook of Clothes, Memories, and Fashion Sketches. He’s a world-famous Brazilian designer.

Lauren Grossman, Designer and Owner, Booth: 7527

Schana Cenci, Designer, Booth: 313

Rock ’n Karma

Naomi Shapiro, Designer, Booth: 5546

What do you pull out of your closet when fall arrives?

I’m all about the boots.

What is your favorite way to celebrate?

With friends, music, and my favorite outfit. Every day is a celebration.

What’s unique about your designs?

We create the color and beadwork for the fabrics we paint and design. We call it “painted couture.” We’ve been told it’s addictive.

What’s your favorite season?

This year, it’s spring. Have you seen our new collection? All kidding aside, I can’t wait until next year to wear it.

What’s the last thing you Googled?

The weather, so I know what to wear.

What is your favorite trend this fall?

It’s always been all about the fringe for me.

What is your favorite city to visit?

Bangkok, for the people, the energy, and the shopping. Did I mention I’m a shopaholic?

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Josie Natori

Josie Natori, CEO and Founder, Booth: 2235 What is the story behind your brand?

My career began on Wall Street. I fell into fashion by accident. I’m a businesswoman first and foremost.

How would you describe the woman who wears your designs?

Confident, feminine, and modern.

What do you do in your free time?

In my free time I like to sleep, have a massage, or shop!

What is your favorite city to visit?

Paris.

Where are you from?

The Philippines.

What’s next for your brand?

We launched eveningwear at New York Fashion Week. Evening and glamour have always been intrinsic to the DNA of Natori, and this was a natural next step.

What is your favorite place in NYC to have a quiet moment?

My home.

CalyPso ST. BARTH Elisa Miller, Creative Director, Booth: 4144

What is your dream collaboration?

Bell-bottoms with Jimmy Page from Led Zeppelin.

What is your favorite trend this season?

The lack of trend is the new trend: there is every possible silhouette option out there, and it allows women to be more individual than ever before.

Who are your style icons?

Prince, Janice from Electric Mayhem, Peter Sellers, and Nina Simone.

What category would you like to add next to your label?

We just launched Mariée, a bridal collection, this spring, so who knows where our bride will take us next!

PROMOTION

a l l p h o t o s c o u r t e sy o f t h e d e s i gn e r s

A GLOBAL FASHION MARKETPLACE THAT CONNECTS WOMEN’S APPAREL AND ACCESSORY DESIGNERS WITH WORLDWIDE RETAILERS

SEPTEMBER 19.20.21 S AT \ S U N \ M O N JAVITS CENTER.NYC ENKREGISTRATIONS.COM ENKSHOWS.COM

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VISIT / enkshows.com/coterie REGISTER / enkregistrations.com FOLLOW US / ENKInternational, @enkshows PLAN YOUR TRAVEL / enktravel.com SHOP / shopthefloor.com

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ENTER VIP REGISTRATION *Floor plan is subject to change. Last updated 9/14/2015

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SPRING | SUMMER 2016 Coterie Booth #2641 Javits, Level 3

231 w. 39th street, #711, new york city

212.221.3660

facebook.com/woodenshipsbypb

www.wooden-ships.com

who’s Showing

BEHNO

Shivam Punjya, Founder, and Ashley Parenti, Business Development Director, Booth: 4832

Sarah Pacini

Naila Jaffer, CEO and Artistic Director, Booth: 1825

What first inspired you to be a designer?

ASHLEY: My mom made a lot of my clothes growing up, and her mother for her, so I was taught how to sew at a very early age. I would buy those pre-made patterns, but I eventually found them very limiting, so I would cut them up and change them, and by the time I was 16, I stopped using them and made my own “dress form.”

Who is your style icon?

SHIVAM: Anyone who never intended to be an icon. Style is serendipitous and it should be whimsically personal.

ASHLEY: Grace Jones!

Who was your mentor?

SHIVAM: Entering into this industry without fashion knowledge, everyone who gave constructive criticism became a mentor.

ASHLEY: Chris Benz. I had a mentorship with him for my thesis project at SCAD and also worked for him when I first moved to New York.

How would you describe the woman who wears the line?

She is a woman of substance, who likes fashion beyond the usual. She is cosmopolitan and modern, and leads an active life. But most of all she is passionate, whatever her passion may be. Age is not important.

Where did you travel this year?

Sha Wellness Clinic in Alicante, Spain.

What are you reading right now?

I just finished The Forty Rules of Love,

by Elif Shafak, a Turkish writer. What an amazing story!

What is the story behind the brand?

The beginning was in Belgium, however many other countries were quick to fall under the brand’s spell. We’ve had a major presence at international trade and fashion events since 1998. Today, the collection is made in Italy and distributed in 48 countries across five continents.

Jonathan Adler Jonathan Adler, Potter and Designer, Booth: 4000

Who is your dream collaboration?

I’d love to design a car.

What is your design process like?

Everything I make starts in the pottery studio. It’s where I work out all my ideas.

What do you listen to while you design?

I have the musical tastes of a 13-year-old

girl. Whatever’s the numberone song on the radio is my favorite.

Who was your mentor?

My pottery teacher in college who told me I had no talent and should move to New York and become a lawyer. Every creative person needs a naysayer to rebel against.

If you could make one trend disappear, what would it be?

I wouldn’t be upset if taxidermy disappeared. It’s just sad.

What’s the best place you’ve traveled this year?

Capri always.

Christina Karin

Christina Karin Monley, Designer and Founder, Booth: 6841

Wooden Ships

BY PAOLA BUENDÍA

What inspired your Spring 2016 collection?

It pays homage to my East Coast roots by integrating an edgy nautical vibe that is fresh, modern, and well-suited to our style influencer clients.

What silhouette are you into for spring?

I'm in love with the mermaid silhouette and interpreting it for daywear.

What's the strangest thing you’ve designed?

A dress made completely out of deconstructed men’s white dress shirts.

Who would you like to see wearing your designs?

Linda Fargo, Jessica Alba, Kate Bosworth...

What is your customer’s personality?

Down-to-earth, sexy, fun, and very smart.

What’s you earliest memory of fashion?

Matching taffeta dresses with my mom for Olan Mills portraits.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Paola Buendía, Designer and Co-Owner, Booth: 2641

PROMOTION

What’s next for the brand?

Our aim is to erase our carbon footprint by presenting collections early so that our accounts can order with a lead time that allows us to ship by sea, saving the planet from more CO2.

What’s unique to your designs?

Simplicity and geometry. Our knits are very light, so drape and movement is important.

What languages do you speak?

English; Spanish, my first language; Bahasa (Indonesian); and I can still get around with my college French! a l l p h o t o s c o u r t e s y o f t h e d e si g n e r s

R E V O LV E C L O T H I N G . C O M @ R E V O LV E C L O T H I N G

who’s Showing NICOLE BAKTI Aida, Designer, Booth: 10407

TRYB212

Jeffrey Cayer, Co-Designer and Co-Founder, Booth: 4525 What inspired your Spring 2016 collection?

Jane Birkin.

What trends are you hoping to see for spring?

Detailed handwork and embroidery.

What’s next for your brand?

Knitwear...it’s already in motion!

What's your design process?

We use a lot of Pinterest! It's so easy create individual mood boards.

What is your favorite trend this fall?

Boho chic.

What celebrities/influencers wear your brand?

Blake Lively! She wore some pieces over the summer and looked beyond stunning.

If you could see one trend come back, what would it be?

The YSL Tuxedo suit à la Helmut Newton.

What inspired your Fall 2015 collection?

Romance and edge.

What fall accessories are you investing in this year?

Leather gloves!

What do you pull out of your closet when fall arrives?

Cashmere scarves.

What do you carry around with you in your purse at the shows?

Cash!

What category would you like to add next?

Sportswear for kids.

Where’s your local happy place?

MoMa. Who would like to see wearing your designs?

Charlize Theron.

If you could make one trend disappear, what would it be?

Poofy prom dresses.

What first inspired you to be a designer?

It’s in my DNA. I’m a third generation designer.

Who is your dream collaboration?

Azzedine Alaïa.

Repeat Cashmere

Jiro Kodarte, Representative and Designer of Chaka, BoothS: 5847, 3047, 5142, 405 What is the story behind your brand?

Freedom.

What’s next?

T-shirts, caps, bags, and more!

What do you listen to while you design?

Japanese pop.

What is your favorite way to celebrate?

With my family.

Who would you like to see wearing your designs?

Taylor Swift.

Where can we find your collection globally?

New York, Toronto, and Hong Kong.

What is your favorite city to visit?

Istanbul.

Where are you from?

Tokyo.

TLF APPAREL

Noemi Tugendhaft, Designer, Booth: 7201

Booth: 6035

What is your favorite season to design for?

Winter. There is no other season that is as luxurious and warm to design for, especially with our focus in cashmere in our cozy knits!

What trends are you hoping to see for Spring 2016?

I am hoping to see a shift toward slimmer silhouettes, with a focus on more tailored and classic pieces. I look forward to getting away from oversize boxy garments.

What’s next for your brand?

We are very excited to be launching our U.S. e-shop.

Who’s your favorite model of the moment?

Doutzen Kroes. Doutzen continues to be our muse!

Who are your style icons?

Diane Kruger, Jennifer Aniston, and Doutzen.

How would you describe the woman who wears your brand?

The woman you will find wearing Repeat will have a timeless sense of style and will exude sophistication.

She touches on trends in a stylish way, without overdoing it.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Team Japan

What trends are you hoping to see for Spring 2016?

More defined silhouettes between menswear and womenswear.

What inspired your Spring 2016 collection?

Fun candy colors and offbeat prints.

What’s next for your brand?

Innovative technologies and construction in our textiles.

What is the story behind your brand?

The world was first introduced to TLF Apparel Brand as a division of BSN, founded by Chris Ferguson. After selling BSN in 2011, Ferguson began his focus on building TLF into the world’s premium athletic and lifestyle brand.

What do you pull out of your closet when fall arrives?

Being based out of South Florida, we wear tank tops year-round!

What’s your favorite material to work with?

Mesh and lace.

What category would you like to add next to your label?

Accessories.

PROMOTION

a l l p h o t o s c o u r t e s y o f t h e d e si g n e r s

Booth #1933

amymatto.com

Hats Off

For those who doubt kismet, meet Eugenia Kim. The accomplished milliner began designing out of sheer necessity, and was discovered while wearing her creations as she paraded the streets of New York. Here, she shares how it all began and what’s in store for the future. BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER You initially thought you wanted to be a doctor. Tell us more!

I come from a family of doctors, and grew up thinking I wanted to be one. Freshman year in college, I was sledding on a cafeteria tray on the campus golf course and broke my back. I was in the hospital for a month, and it was really depressing.

After that incident, I lost some desire to go into medicine. I minored in creative writing, and got my first job at Allure as an editorial assistant. The magazine paid for me to take a hat design class at Parsons, and the rest is history!

How did you get your start designing?

One night I decided to cut my own hair. It was really screwed up and jagged, and I had to shave my head. As winter neared, and I came to realize that I looked more like the Dalai Lama than Sinéad O’Connor, I ended up designing a feathered hat to keep my head warm and to give the illusion of hair.

Walking around downtown, store owners took notice, and I began selling in a couple of boutiques. Soon after, I received my first order from Barneys New York. Stylists started pulling my hats for shoots and asked me to design hats for W and for David LaChapelle.

So do you consider yourself a daredevil?

The sledding incident was symptomatic of my young fearlessness. I was always pushing the envelope and taking risks. I was rebellious and didn’t listen to anyone…I was the only student that was consistently in all the AP classes and in detention. I guess I was meant to have my own company because it allows me to not have to answer to anyone but myself.

What inspired your Spring 2016 collection?

MoMa’s recent exhibit, “Henri Matisse: The Cut-Outs,” which showcased the artist’s later works. We were really attracted to the way he created abstract shapes of leaves and algae using hard-edge precision with scissors and paper. We designed the hats with the same notion of simplicity and ease.

This similar idea has also been translated in the trims and embellishments. For example, the Courtney wide-brim fedora features a loose knot hand-painted band. The vibrant colors are representative of Matisse’s art, specifically, his piece Large Composition with Masks.

Can you share a few tips for choosing the best hat to complement facial features?

It’s best to choose a hat that is a counterpoint to one’s features. Some examples: Round crowns soften angular faces, fedora crowns add angles to round faces, and wide brims counter long “Bert” faces and also slim down wide “Ernie” faces

“

Great tips! Tell us about the celebrities you’ve seen wearing your hats.

We’ve worked with Beyoncé and Madonna to design custom styles for their tours.

Other celebrity fans are Lady Gaga, Sarah Jessica Parker, Jared Leto…and the list goes on!

Impressive list—can you tell us about your earliest memory of fashion?

I’m a child of the ’80s, and fashion was highly influenced by the music of the time, like Madonna with her lace and DIY outfits. I remember going to my first Madonna concert at 11 dressed head-to-toe in full Madonna gear, and I even appeared at the beginning of her “Dress You Up” video before MTV edited out all the pre-show footage. I still can’t believe she is a regular Eugenia Kim wearer now! I have been designing her tour hats for almost 15 years.

What is your design process like?

It’s pretty organic. We usually start with a mishmash of different inspirations, then shapes and materials, then sampling, and all of a sudden, all these amazing hats appear almost overnight. We do a lot of experimenting with techniques to create newness. My mind works in Excel and chart format so we create these visual Excels to outline the collection as well.

Tell us about your shoe designs!

The shoe collection has evolved from the time I launched in 2003. Back then, the shoes were whimsical but literal. This time around, the shoes are made with luxurious materials, have clean lines, are based on exciting ideas, and are different from what’s out in the market. I find that newer shoe designers tend to “trick out” their shoes, so you essentially can only wear those designs if you are Tommy Ton bait. As with my hats, I am focusing on wearable yet striking shoes that are decidedly left of center.

What has been your favorite trade show moment?

I don’t get starstruck easily. However, for one collection, I designed an ’80s-style multi-bow hair accessory inspired by Saved by the Bell’s Kelly Kapowski the night before the show. Appropriately, I named it Kelly. The first day of the show, in walks the Tiffani-Amber Thiessen, and I freaked out like a crazy fan, and asked her to take photos with me. She asked to do personals. Obviously, I said yes!

What are you most excited about for Coterie this year?

I feel that this is, by far, the best Spring/Summer collection to date. Coterie has always been amazingly successful for Eugenia Kim, but I think this time, no one will be able to resist the exciting designs we are putting out!

I’m a child of the ’80s, and fashion was highly influenced by the music of the time, like Madonna with her lace and DIY outfits.”

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

a l l p h o t o s c o u r t e sy

“

What’s new in the world of Zac Posen?

ZAC Zac Posen has seen lots of demand from retailers. We’ve seen double-digit growth in our accessories and handbags. We also have jewelry and hosiery. The collection is very day-to-evening pieces and body-con and flowy cocktail and evening dresses. It’s exciting to see your young baby grow, and for it to get its own identity beyond the main line brand. And to kick off New York Fashion Week, ZZP partnered with Google and Made with Code.

What was the inspiration behind the collection?

It pulls inspiration from my trip to L.A., and has palm leaf patterns, animal prints, touches of blues, blush pink, seafoam green, and sandtones. It has that L.A. mood, and a little Coachella in there with the longer dresses. We used appliqué techniques on some of the outerwear, rainwear, and some of the bags.

Tell us about some of your collaborations.

At the moment our partners are Delta, American Express, and Brooks Brothers, and we have our line with David’s Bridal. My plate is quite full and we have an incredible group of collaborators that I’m proud of. Shooting a TV show is a lot too. We have four Emmy nominations this year, which is the most in the show’s history. I can’t wait to have the right moment to find the best-in-class shoe partner. I’ve learned to wait for the right partnership at the right moment, and not to rush an evolution of a brand. I’m not a designer who shows things on the runway that I don’t produce, except for this season’s LED dress that Coco Rocha wore! But I’m sure there’s going to be customers for that.

What is it that makes you and Coco Rocha work so well together?

She’s a gem and a lovely person, and is also a spectacular model. She’s only missed one show working with me, and that’s when she was pregnant! She’s passionate and she gets the big picture. She has major longevity.

Have you met her baby?

Yeah, of course! I’m Uncle Zac. Cute! Being on a Lifetime show, do you have a favorite Lifetime Original Movie?

There are so many! I lived through the experience of my friend Gina Gershon, who was in House of Versace.

Tell us about your role at Brooks Brothers, please!

It’s an incredible experience to do sportswear. Brooks’ heritage is a global representation of American fashion. I feel really proud to be delivering one of the highest quality products at that price point in the global fashion industry. I know that’s a big thing to say, but when you’re able to use Loro Piana fabrics at that price point—it’s a dream come true for me.

How do you switch gears from one line to the other?

My #cookingwithzac hashtag is my fashion detox! As you learn from working on different lines, the key to growing a business is knowing your strengths, learning how to be a good delegator and leader, making quick decisions and owning them, and giving it your all. My greatest strength is when I’m hands-on.

You’re working on so many things—would you say you’re stressed out?

Not at all. I’ve been in this business for 14 years. I still get excited, I’m still passionate, and I feel fortunate to do what I love. You can’t bring that kind of stress and hysteria into your professional environment. When that anxiety starts to appear, you’ve got to focus that to do something positive for somebody else. You have to be passionate, involved, and a perfectionist, but the key to success is about enjoying the process. I learned that from Madonna.

She’s amazing. Any other ways you like to relax?

I swim and I stretch. Anybody that’s on the Project Runway set knows that I’m like a little dancing bean. Heidi [Klum] and I think one day we’ll do Project Runway: The Musical. I’m joking! We don’t have time for it. It’s continuous work all the time. I’m not doing what I do to live a lifestyle—what I’m doing is my lifestyle.

Since you’ve been on TV, do people recognize you on the street more often?

Absolutely! I had to move out of Soho a few years ago because of it!

Did you spend your summer in the city?

I spent a few weekends with my family in Pennsylvania, and I went to Berlin for 36 hours, looking for the international designers of the future at Fashion Week.

How was that experience?

Wonderful! I’ve always worked with different universities, like FIT, RISD, SCAD, and Parsons. I’m doing a lecture with Fern Mallis at the Y in December. It’s important to encourage people and be an approachable figure.

How long have you been showing at Coterie?

We’ve shown our accessories line, but we’ve never done the whole world of Zac! What made you decide to go all-in this year?

The interest from retailers. [Coterie] has a great reach, and at the end of the day, we’re in the business of selling clothing and product, and building a brand. It’s one of the best platforms for that in the U.S.

It’s exciting to see your young baby grow, and for it to get its own identity beyond the main line brand.”

From A to

Zac

He’s serious when it comes to business, designing his eponymous lines and for Brooks Brothers, but Zac Posen is unfailingly fun, charming, and energetic. Will there be a Project Runway musical? Who calls him Uncle Zac? What did he learn from Madonna? We gave him a ring to find out! BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

b f a n yc . com ; f i rstv i e w ( 3 )

M AT T H I L D U R

Level 3 Booth 1930

Tel: 954.578.5687 Fax: 954.578.4431 info@iftheplanet.com www.iftheplanet.com

Level 3

Booth 7527

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That’s what the Fashion Marketing and Management program at Berkeley College is all about.

In fact, our time-tested approach to education is so effective that leading companies and organizations hire Berkeley grads year after year.

Call 800-446-5400 ext. BFF, visit BerkeleyCollege.edu or email info@BerkeleyCollege.edu

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From omni-channel retailing to social media marketing to global product lifecycle management, they’re ready.”

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runway

Spring 2016

zac Zac

posen The sister line to the gala glam Zac Posen line is for the young girl with places to go and more than one place to be seen. In keeping with that idea, every look was shown with flats, from a powdery blue evening dress to a tailored miniskirt suit. Running from one party to the next has never looked so chic!

Booth: 3020

josie

Natori Elegance is this designer’s forte, so no wonder her foray into eveningwear is so spoton. A wide array of silhouettes is on offer, but we’re especially partial to the long, loose tunic and kimono jacket.

Booth: 2235

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

firstview

runway

Spring 2016

nicole

miller Nicole Miller looked to New York’s singular street art scene for a Spring collection that mixed feminine influences with tough-girl attitudes. Roaring prints were paired with body-con skirts and perfect-fit leggings—a winning combo that’s bound to turn heads.

Booth: 1601

anna

sui

Anna Sui jetted to Honolulu and Tahiti for inspiration this season.

There were multicolored grass skirts and Hawaiian leis and sarongs and ’50s-style bikinis. It was a scene straight out of Blue Hawaii. The only thing missing? Elvis.

Booth: 4130

bcbg

Max Azria Venice Beach babes or Venice Beach bums? Les deux! We never thought bucket hats, tie-dye, and board shorts could look so chic. Even the colors felt like a hazy sunset.

Booths: 232, 5806 FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

firstview;

ITALIAN FASHION EVENINGWEAR / LEVEL 1 SIVALIA

CONTEMPORARY / LEVEL 3

AMINA RUBINACCI * ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIU’ * BEATRICE B./SFIZIO * BESSI * BHAGS * BIANCALANCIA * CASHEART * DI BELLO BY NIPAL * FLORA FEDI * FRANCESCO GIRONACCI * GIRONACCI 1969 * MELA ROSA * MICHELE NEGRI * MISTERNIC * PAOLA TODESCO * PARRONCHI CASHMERE * PUROTATTO * SALDARINI - COMO * SHE’S SO * SPREAD * TRICOT CHIC * VIA MASINI 80 * VLT’S BY VALENTINA’S * WHYCI

COTERIE 10.75"x13.5" 4.indd 2

01/09/15 17:08

Coterie booth 5546 Level 3

Toll Free: 1 800-454-5934 Style@rocknkarma.com www.rocknkarma.com

Visit us at Coterie: Booth 7201 Repeat USA Int’l. LLC 141 West 36th Street 7nd Floor New York 10018/USA Tel. 001 212 957 60 02

www.repeatcashmere.com

FALL IN LOVE COTERIE NY

VISIT US, BOOTH 1825 19 - 2 1 / 0 9 / 2 015 ---------Europe +353(0) 1.669.05.70 North America 1.888.477.5436 WWW.SARAHPACINI.COM

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