The Daily Coterie

February 23, 2015

chic The

Season

who’s haute Right Now at

+ Coterie

Sole Commerce

AUTUMN/WINTER 2015

Autumn Winter 2015

Showing at: BOOTHS COTER I E

128 & 228, LEVEL 4 J AV I T S

CENTER

NY + North East Sue Lang 207 3639156 West Coast Jamie Prince 213 6277136 Mid Atlantic Fashion Racks 215 7964022 South East Ambrosia & Co 404 5211863 Mid West Julie Kipta 219 7621442 South West Lori Veith Sales 214 6300541 Canada Euromax 514 2888001

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COTERIE NEW YORK FEBRUARY 23 - 25 Javits Convention Center, New York

BOOTH #9907

info@gorskigroup.com www.GorskiFurs.com GORSKIOUTERWEAR GORSKIOUTERWEAR

Booth #2035 amymatto.com

www.pamellaroland.com

COTERIE Booth #9202

DailyFrontRow-Feb2015V2.indd 1

2/19/15 12:02 PM

High fashion styles made with the finest quality cashmere.

Coterie, Booth 6924 www.les100c.com

SAUCY TALK!

STAYING WARM!

With Diane von Furstenberg, Booth: #2307 What are we looking at for Fall?

This collection is called Seduction. It’s about the woman who commands the room during the day and inspires fantasy at night. We started working on this six months ago, but it’s coming out at the same time as Fifty Shades of Grey. We used the film’s music on the runway.

Have you read Fifty Shades?

Some of it.

What seduces you?

Beauty, intelligence, honesty, generosity.

Your docu TV series was renewed!

People really liked it, and now I’m going to get girls with a little more experience. You can empower young girls and tell them that you don’t have to be a b*tch to succeed.

TOOTING HORNS!

With Jessica Stam at DVF’s Show What’s new?

I’ve started taking trumpet lessons. I used to play as a kid. I was expecting to get complaints from the neighbors, but it hasn’t happened yet.

What songs are you playing?

Christmas carols like “Jingle Bells.” I’m not very good yet. I want to learn jazz; I love going to jazz bars.

How did you find a trumpet teacher?

Online. I googled “Trumpet Lessons” and my teacher came very well-recommended, with a lot of great reviews.

Will we be seeing you in any parades?

No, but maybe you’ll run into me moonlighting at a random jazz bar. That’s kind of my dream.

SLOPE CHIC! With Gorski Après-Ski’s President Lauren Gorski, Booth: #9907 What’s new?

We’re now doing new, fitted shapes, new belts and buckles, fine Italian fabrics, and rare and dyed fox fur trims.

What’s your favorite part of the design process?

Seeing sketches and patterns turn into reality is the best!

What’s your trademark?

Our collections are pretty lightweight but warm slope-side, and fashionable for day or night.

What’s your favorite Fall accessory?

A rich, luxurious fur trim!

f a s h i o n w e e k d a i l y COM .com FASHIONWEEKDAILY.

With Badgley Mischka Designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka, Booth: #2240

Badgley Mischka Fall 2015

your daily dose SCENE

Diane von Furstenberg Fall 2015

☛ Bonjour, chicsters! It’s time for another stylish season of Coterie + Sole Commerce. Your Daily’s got the dish on the hautest labels to check out and the juiciest news to discuss. ☛ New hire alert!

Zadig & Voltaire has tapped Paulo Melim Andersson as co-designer for the women’s and accessory collection. This chic Marni and Chloé alum is sure to add some joie to the French brand at Booth #2310… ☛ Trina Turk is celebrating two decades in the biz this season. Her colorful collection for Fall, which can be found at Booth #1620, was inspired by NorCal and the San Francisco Bay Area. A welcome reprieve from New York’s winter blues, bien sûr! ☛

What type of jackets are chic to wear to an evening soirée?

It depends on the outfit, but overall, simple, and classic shapes always work.

We like the idea of wearing a longer tailored coat with a feminine dress underneath.

What’s the most glamorous Badgley Mischka accessory on offer these days?

This season we’re introducing a collection of fur collars, hats, and scarves made of fox, mink, and rex rabbit. They’re all extremely glamorous.

How can we look chic in the winter?

Fur and diamonds. That’s all you need!

What’s your fave wintertime food?

Anything that’s warm and spicy.

What’s your favorite fashion memory, ever?

Seeing our clothes in the windows of Bergdorf Goodman for the first time.

A MOMENT WITH… O Marché Founder Bruno Peutat, Booth: #220

SPARKLE ALERT! With Alexis Bittar, Booth: #3130

Iris Apfel and

Alexis Bittar Your bauble line is celebrating a big birthday…

I’ve been designing with Lucite for 25 years now! We wanted to celebrate this milestone in a big way, so I presented my new collection at NYFW. Four major contemporary artists create their own visions in Lucite, which were auctioned at our presen tation on February 18, to benefit the LGBT Center of New York.

What were you like when you were 25 years old?

At 25, I had a frenetic, excited energy, but at the same time, I was incredibly focused and serious. Maybe that’s not so different from how I am now!

What’s been your most memorable collab over the years?

My most memorable collaboration was with Jeremy Scott. We both channel a similar love of fashion and whimsy.

I think we were separated at birth.

What’s new at the showroom?

We’ve hired a new sales executive, Alex, who’s with us at Coterie.

Come say hi!

Have you signed on any new brands recently?

We just added Alexia Klein. It’s a mother/daughter line for active women.

What was the most exciting moment of 2015 for you?

I got my green card!

What’s your favorite fashion memory of all time?

The Alexander McQueen exhibition at the Met. It was so inspiring.

bfanyc.com (2); firstview (5); getty images; all others courtesy

booth #5222

z u z B

Pia Pauro at Joey Showroom Booth: #5520

the front row Editor in Chief, CEO

Brandusa Niro Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director

Fix

Peter Davis Group Executive Editor

Mia Farrow; Ali MacGraw

Camilla at Joey Showroom Booth: #5513

SCENE

n: Philanthropy at Joey Showroom Booth: #5527

SHOWROOM CHATTER! With Joey Giuntoli, Joey Showroom What’s new in your showroom?

We’re really expanding on our brands, and ensuring the product is relevant, trend driven, and on point!

Also, eight months ago we launched an incubator program for emerging brands, working on a consultancy basis, and providing the support they need to build their brand.

Your showroom has outposts in L.A. and Dallas, too!

I split my time between New York and L.A., and I’ve been loving the diversity of lifestyle.

New York has a constant buzz of excitement, while L.A. is relaxed, sunny, and has a healthier quality of life. We have a pop-up showroom in Dallas, and I love to see my stores while there. Dallas is a great city. I’m always up for a night or two of drinking with Texan buyers; they really know how to throw them back!

☛ Candice Swanepoel is flexing her design muscles via a collab with Mother denim.

It doesn’t get much hauter than a supermod in divine jeans, right? Check ’em out in Booth #4410… ☛ Solid & Striped makes the jump from swimwear to ready-to-wear with its first full collection this fall. Founder Isaac Ross looked to 1970s Americana (think Mia Farrow and Ali MacGraw) to inspire him. Look for these retro-chic goods in Booth #2525. ☛

knit wit!

With White + Warren’s Head Designer, Amanda Ferrer, Booth: #3023 What do you dream about creating with cashmere?

A cashmere wedding dress and a comforter!

Do you have any celeb fans?

We launched our first baby range during the holidays, and we’ve amassed quite the chic celeb mom following, including Charlize Theron, Alessandra Ambrosio, Naomi Watts, Nicole Richie, as well as moms-to-be like Jessica Biel and Carrie Underwood.

FIVE FUN FACTS! With The Fifth Label’s Head Designer, Amy Hicks, Booth: #5822 1. My favorite flavor is peppermint.

2. I love Tokyo. This city just keeps continuing to inspire me.

3. Instagram is my go-to form of social media. It’s a great

platform for visually expressing who you are and what you do.

4. My style is definitely tomboy-esque, although I do love to dress up and be girlie every once in a while.

5. I won’t be taking off The Fifth’s Salt Lake Chambray shirt this season. It’s great on the weekend pared down with denim or dressed up for work with a pencil skirt and heels.

Nicole Richie; Naomi Watts

Managing Editor Tangie Silva Trade Publications Editor Dena Silver Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Freelance Writer/Reporter Zachary Weiss Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Contributing Imaging Director George Maier Contributing Imaging Specialist Mihai Simion Interns Almendra Perez, Emma Mikhailoff President, Publisher Paul Turcotte Account Directors Mark Tevis, Chloe Worden Trade Publications Director Mindy Dorf Outside offices: Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Contributing Marketing Director Stephen McCarthy Publishing Coordinator Piero Bellizzi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor

To advertise, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: turcotte@dailyfrontrow.com getty images

GETTING COZY!

the official photo agency

With Yoana Baraschi, Booth: #3025

of The daily front row

The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

What’s your favorite wintertime activity?

Reading a book or watching a movie in bed under my heat lamp.

Where’s your favorite place to travel in the winter?

Paris. It’s kind of my second home. It’s where I recharge my chic batteries and hang out with my best friends.

Where’s your favorite place in NYC this time of year?

As strange as it may seem, my design studio and sample room. To me, these places are not only evocative of hard work but also of great love and the amazing luxury of living a creative life.

What’s your wintry beauty routine?

Bee pollen cream, vitamin C serum, vitamin K supplements, eight hours of sleep, and keeping frustration and negativity at bay. f a s h i o n w e e k d a i l y COM .com FASHIONWEEKDAILY.

Eddie Roche Deputy Editor

On the cover: baraschi: giorgio niro; bfanyc.com (3); getty images (3); all others courtesy

Natasha Poly in Michael Kors Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear photographed by FirstView.

B O OT H # 1 7 1 0 22 PRINCE STREET

N E W YO R K C I T Y

RAMYBROOK.COM

@RAMYBROOK

FALL 2015 OUTERWEAR & ACCESSORIES BadgleyMischka.com

COTERIE Booth #2240

BOOTH 2440 PG_Daily_Layout_final.indd 1

212.563.2250

POLOGEORGIS.COM

2/13/15 5:34 PM

WHO’S Showing

Here’s your indispensable guide to the hautest brands on the Coterie floor this season.

Magaschoni Jill Feigen and Torie Greenberg, Designers, Booth: #2533

ashley B

Sun Choi, Creative Director, Booth: #4627 Who’s your social media crush?

Christine Centenera!

Which trend of yesteryear are you relieved is no longer?

Hair from the ’80s—the hair spray, the horror!

What’s your trademark? ashley B’s brand DNA is all about transformative design.

Who’s the latest celeb to wear ashley B? Kendall Jenner has been spotted wearing ashley B, most recently while out with Justin Bieber. Another time, she wore our coat in an adorable LOVE video.

What’s new for Fall?

Our fabulous new accessories, expanded menswear line, and our new silk separates.

What are you most excited about for this year?

Our brand is expanding in Europe with showrooms in London, Brussels, and Paris.

Who are your social media crushes?

Chrissy Teigen and Gigi Hadid.

Any new cashmere techniques you’ll be debuting this season?

One of our favorite new techniques is a printed sweater topped with a sheer illusion burnout pattern.

Do you have any team bonding rituals?

The Magaschoni team goes out once a month to an NYC hot spot.

iiJIN

Christina Minasian, Women’s Creative Director, Booth: #7435 Who’s your social media crush?

Vanessa from The Haute Pursuit. I think she’s so cute!

What’s your trademark?

Sharpies.

Tell us a fun fact about your brand!

The word iiJin means precious in Korean.

Who are your favorite artists?

I love Richard Prince and John Currin.

What’s your favorite part of the design process?

Conceptualizing!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

all photos courtesy of the designers

COTERIE | JACOB JAVITS | BOOTH 2443 FEB 23 - 25th www.shopjocelyn.com

who’s Showing Sam & Lavi

Lavi Mirzak, Creative Director, Booth: #4521 What’s new for Fall 2015?

Sam & Lavi has morphed into a full collection offering sweater knits, outerwear, and heavier wools blended with wovens for a bespoke aesthetic.

What’s your favorite fashion era?

I’m definitely an ’80s girl. I loved Madonna, Flashdance, and offthe-shoulder sweatshirts.

What’s your trademark?

Prints, prints, prints!

A fun fact about your brand, please!

Sam and I are married to each other and drive to work together every day.

What’s your favorite fall accessory?

A great oversize shawl.

It’s an instant game changer.

Who’s your current favorite artist?

Lana Del Rey. I love her voice.

Han Ahn Soon

Rock ’N Karma Naomi Shapiro, Designer, Booth: #6646

Who’s your social media crush?

I always like to see what the Beckerman twins post.

They have great energy; they remind me of myself when I was younger.

What’s your favorite part about designing for the Fall/Winter season?

I love an edgy, glamorous, rock look, using a dark fall color palette.

What’s your trademark?

Having the best pants ever.

What’s your favorite fall piece?

I’m always looking to design a new layering piece that’s easy to work into your wardrobe. This season, we designed the perfect miniskirt.

What’s your favorite part of the design process?

Creating the color and beadwork for fabrics we design and paint.

Han Ahn Soon, Designer, Booth: #4947

What’s new for Fall 2015?

I coordinated metallic and soft materials to create original styles.

What are you most excited about for 2015?

To experience New York Fashion Week as a brand.

Who do you think has the best style in Japan at the moment?

Tomoki Sukezane, the fashion editor.

What’s the best thing to do in Japan during the winter season?

Going to the hot springs.

What’s your trademark?

Using unique colors and pop-elegant designs.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Native Stranger David Lim, Creative Director, Booth: #2114

How did Native Stranger get its start?

We saw an opportunity for two totally different yet complementary worlds to come together: a classic tailoring background and a retail business background.

What has been the biggest moment for your brand to date?

Planning our first retail store, which will open in New York City in March.

A fun fact about your brand, please!

We throw darts at the world map to see where we should go next.

JAVITS CENTER

Level 3 Booth #2533

magaschoni.com Daily Front Row Coterie Ad.indd 1

2/9/15 8:58 PM

who’s Showing Mart

Martha Fogarty, Designer and Founder, Booth: #4147 What’s your Fall collection all about?

The Fall collection really pushes the needle of the Mart concept, capturing the space between high design and everyday wearability.

Tell us more about your muses!

My muses are equal parts Bette Midler in Outrageous Fortune (check it out on Netflix, if you haven’t seen it) and the amazing Louise Bourgeois, whose sculptural works are beautiful and creepy.

What’s your trademark?

Pairing my beat-up Converse Chucks with eveningwear. There is nothing better than a black-tie event when you can dance all night!

Les 100 Ciels

Stephanie Beck, Senior Designer, Booth: #6924 What are you most excited about for the year ahead?

Getting our first delivery of prototypes with new textures of cashmere was exhilarating. Seeing our designs come to life is very special.

What is your favorite fashion memory of all time?

Having my designs selected by Alexander McQueen and Antonio Berardi for the Smirnoff International Fashion Awards.

What does Les 100 Ciels mean?

Les 100 Ciels is French for the hundred skies, which originates from a Chinese poem. The name also sounds like the French word for the essentials, which is a philosophy we carry in the heart of the brand, because we offer essential pieces for every wardrobe.

What are your favorite cashmere colors this season?

I will always love camel; it’s so timeless. I’m also excited about our hues of blue, like deep sea and midnight.

Jocelyn Jocelyn Gordon, Creative Director, Booth: #2443

What’s your favorite part about designing for the Fall/Winter season?

I love all the fabulous textures of fur, and thinking about what everybody will want to wear when it’s snowing.

What’s your favorite fashion memory of all time?

The first runway show I ever went to in Paris. It was a Galliano show; Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Stephanie Seymour, and Linda Evangelista all walked.

What’s your trademark?

The Jocelyn infinity scarf, of course.

What’s your fave fur color?

Hot pink.

What’s your favorite part of the design process?

I always love starting my inspiration board, one year ahead of each collection.

John Paul Ataker Numan Ataker, Creative Director, Booth: #9130

How will this year at Coterie be different from past years?

We’ll be unveiling a new direction and a new image.

What’s your favorite fashion memory of all time?

Jil Sander returning to Jil Sander after two decades. How epic was that?

What’s your trademark?

Adding couture techniques to our ready-to-wear collections.

How did you get your start?

John Paul Ataker started out with a tiny tailor shop in Istanbul in the ’70s.

What’s your favorite fall accessory?

Healthy skin.

Who’s your social media crush?

Kendall Jenner—I’m guilty!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

COTERIE - The Javits Center Booth #3440 / Level 3

who’s Showing Caterina Leman Malgorzata Bulikowska, Creative Director, Booth: #817

What’s new for Fall 2015?

This year we decided to use taffeta for office apparel, which is mostly considered an eveningwear fabric. We also used lots of electric blue and offwhite, which are unusual for Fall collections.

What are you most looking forward to this year?

Our first time at Coterie! This is our American debut—I created a collection tailored to the occasion.

A fun fact about your brand, please!

Our company owns two factories and 23 sewing plants!

Who’s your favorite musical artist?

David Bowie. He’s not only a wonderful musician, but also a great artist who inspired a whole generation and influenced fashion trends.

Ipanema

Schana Cenci Marin, Lead Designer, Booth: #8031 What’s new this season?

We love developing new and unique strap details and foot bed shapes, plus we’ve been playing with a rich and deep color palette.

Who’s your muse this season?

The muse for Ipanema will always be a sophisticated and sexy woman from Rio de Janeiro.

Who’s your social media crush?

We’re biased, but we loved collaborating with @flashtattoos at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Swim in Miami Beach. We can’t get enough of their sexy photography.

How will this year at Coterie be different from past years?

If we could predict the future we’d be retired by now! We just pray that there won’t be a blizzard.

Gruppo Mattei USA Michela Petrali, President, Booth: #2920

What are you most excited about for 2015?

It will be our year! Finally, we have our own showroom, located at 501 Madison Avenue. We would like to grow through brand cooperation, events, and trunk shows.

What’s your favorite form of social media?

Facebook.

How will this year at Coterie be different from past years?

First of all, our space! A bigger booth at Coterie represents our company’s will to introduce itself to one of the most important markets in the world.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Julie Vos

Julie Lindsey, CEO and Creative Director, Booth: #4047

What’s your trademark?

Our beautiful, burnished gold patina finish. It’s sophisticated, expensive-looking, and original.

What’s new for Fall 2015?

We have four new collections for Fall 2015, for a total of 70 new pieces.

One collection features lush pearls and is quite dressy, while another is based on Ancient Greek mythical figure Pegasus. The third collection is a modern take on clustering colors and shapes, and the fourth collection is ladylike and classic.

What’s your favorite part about designing for the Fall/Winter season?

Coming up with larger, chunkier pieces that work with bulkier clothes, like tweeds and knits.

What’s your favorite piece of jewelry you’ve ever owned?

A long string of South Sea pearls that detaches into three separate graduated strands.

There are so many ways to wear it!

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FRESH Talent

KNOW the Newbies There’s a first time for everything, darlings: These brands are making their Coterie debut this season.

The future certainly looks a lot chicer with them around! BY DENA SILVER

Lancaster Paris

Thierry Chang, Director of Marketing, Booth: #3440 Describe your brand aesthetic!

Lancaster Paris is known for innovative style, constant renewal, and advanced trends in a variety of highquality Italian leathers.

What do you most want your brand to be known for?

Parisian chic.

Who’s the Lancaster muse?

We love women who are confident, chic, and have amazing style like Behati Prinsloo, our latest campaign star, Elsa Hosk, Karlie Kloss, blogger Betty Autier, and stylist Anya Ziourova.

Carl Cunow and Nathan Romano

Onia

Ela

Ela Aldorsson, CoFounder and Designer, and Martin Aldorsson, Co-Founder, Booth: #4643 Ela Aldorsson: “I love the Mini MILCK bag.

MILCK is an acronym for money, ID, lipstick, cell phone, and keys.

This mini silhouette has a great balance between function and unique design.”

Ela and Martin Aldorsson

Grace MMXIII

Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson, Co-Founders, Booth: #4712 Jens Grede: “We wanted to create a luxe but affordable brand based around the idea of elevated nightlife. Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Suki Waterhouse walked the runway in our secret, intimate show at London Fashion Week last February.”

Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Carl Cunow and Nathan Romano, Co-Founders, Booth: #4543 Carl Cunow: “The Kelly one-piece with the banana-leaf print is a favorite! It embodies what Onia stands for: a superclean silhouette with a fresh print, hand-painted by artist Felipe Merida.”

Collina Strada

Hillary Taymour, Owner and Head Designer, Booth: #4630 “Spring 2015 at NYFW was my first solo show. It was such a massive accomplishment for me, and truly an eye-opening experience. It was like waking up and realizing you’re living your dream.”

Alice Noon

Tiffany Eley, Designer and Founder, Booth: #4343 “The name Alice Noon comes from my great-grandmother. She was a fearless, intelligent, self-made woman. She had a great sense of humor, and was a kind, forgiving woman.”

Peter & May Walk

Peter and May Walk, Co-Founders and Designers, Booth: #4335 “Our muses are Kelly Slater riding a surfboard, Kate Moss on a catwalk, and Thom Yorke behind a piano. That’s the definition of elegance.”

Derek Guillemette

Inter-pret.us

Derek Guillemette, Founder and Creative Director, Booth: #4441 “The very first piece I ever created, the Franken Shirt, got its name because I cut up my three favorite shirts, altering them, and sewing the parts back together again. My friends at work called me a mad scientist.”

Viktoria + Woods

Lisa Reynolds, Co-Director and Head Designer, Booth: #4727 “After 10 years in business, I still jump on the pattern table along with the design assistants. I love that raw, hands-on part of the process.”

Fabitoria

Victoria Kao, Founder and Designer, Booth: #4943 “When no one on Earth knew Fabitoria back in 2012, Susie Bubble wrote a heartfelt article about us. This gesture really opened a door to the world for us.”

Martel

Antonia Martel, Owner and Creative Director, Booth: #4641 “The brand aesthetic is understated. It’s slightly twisted with a sense of humor, treading somewhere between experimental and classic. I’d describe our Fall collection as ‘neo-prim.’ ”

Victoria Kao

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY

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change 10/2015

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SOLE COMMERCE

LEVEL 1 HALL E - AISLES 8300 - 9200 9130

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RETAIL Report

DOWNTOWN GIRL Booth:# 1710

Ramy Sharp took on Soho this fall by opening a flagship for her Ramy Brook label at 22 Prince Street. Complete with exposed brick, a killer soundtrack, and the sexy yet comfortable threads she’s known for, her boutique has become a haven where even the most devout Upper East Sider will feel at home. BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO How’s business been since you opened up shop in September?

It’s great! Now I understand more about why people are buying Ramy Brook and what their preferences are. I get to learn what works for the customer, why they like our brand, and where they’re going in our clothes.

How often are you at the store?

I come to the store on the weekends and at least once a week. I’m always surprised by how many people I know! I thought the area would be much more touristy.

Any celeb fans?

You know who came in recently? Julianna Margulies. She’s a big fan of our brand.

Where else in the neighborhood do you usually hang out?

The pizza place across the street, Prince Street Pizza, is so yummy. There’s a famous nail salon around the corner, Valley, that does the coolest nail art, but I can never get an appointment there! If I’m meeting someone, we’ll usually go next door to Café Gitane.

We hear you’re branching out into athleisure. What’s the scoop?

Later this month, we’re launching Après Ramy Brook, which is a to-and-from-thegym collection. It’s launching with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, and Shopbop. Last May, we did a six-piece collaboration with SoulCycle, and it did incredibly well. I realized that women want to throw on something cute after they workout to run errands, grab coffee, and pick up their kids.

What are your usual workout spots?

Barry’s Bootcamp and SoulCycle, obviously. And I just started working out at Exceed Physical Culture. This morning I did Exceed and then I went to spin class.

On certain days, I double it up!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Who’s your all-time favorite model?

Gisele Bündchen, for sure. My favorite look she ever wore is from the Met Gala in 2008. She was wearing this blush-colored Versace dress that covered her in all the right places but still left so much exposed. Her whole body looked perfect.

Of course, it didn’t hurt to have Tom Brady on her arm!

Growing up, who was your favorite model?

My favorite model was Christie Brinkley, and I’m a big fan of Heidi Klum and Claudia Schiffer.

Do you ever run into Christie when you’re out in the Hamptons?

I do! I see her all the time out there. She’s lovely, and she’s gorgeous!

Are there any pieces in your collection that are basically made for a model?

We have a few jumpsuits coming out, especially an exclusive for Bergdorf Goodman called the Finn. It has a bit of a ’70s vibe, with suede on top and black palazzo pants. There’s a chain detail around the neck, too. I think a model would look stunning in it, because we cut the pants really long, so it’s perfect for long legs.

Who’s your favorite designer to see at Fashion Week?

One of the best shows I’ve ever attended was Dennis Basso’s. I just loved every piece. Not only because he does the best furs, but he also makes really unique dresses. And he always has the best shoes! I bought a dress from him for my son’s bar mitzvah. It was a beautiful yellow gown, all beaded, down to the floor, and I bought a yellow fur to go along with it!

Aside from attending shows, what are your favorite Fashion Week pastimes?

You know what I love? Going to the restaurants and seeing all the people. You know it’s Fashion Week because everyone looks extra glamorous!

10

“

I come to the store on the weekends, and at least once a week. I’m always surprised by how many people I know!”

COURTESY

4th floor, Booth 609

YOUR VALUES. YOUR STYLE. MEET THE ARTISAN.

fashion worth wearing, worth buying and worth talking about.

www.indigenous.com SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT HOW OUR UNIQUE ARTISAN GARMENTS ARE MADE

javits center | level 3 | booth # 1946

TOTALLY Seamless

INTIMATES appeal

For Prabal Gurung, Rodarte, and Rag & Bone, only the very best runway skivvies will do. Enter Commando, the invisible, raw-cut underwear that finishes off even the most seam-averse looks. From her studio in Vermont, founder and CEO Kerry O’Brien dishes on how her underpinnings became a fashion darling, from the catwalk to the tapis rouge. BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO Which came first: the runway or the red carpet?

Booth: #5446 Stylists discovered Commando from the very beginning, and in a very organic way began using it for the red carpet. Commando then caught on fire for Fashion Week.

Who were your earliest adopters?

Jennifer Lopez, Jessica Alba, and Amy Adams. Recently, Emily Blunt was photographed in Vogue with one of our slips visible, and Emma Watson just talked about our underwear as an important part of the stylist’s kit. We also work with top stylists including Kate Young, Erin Walsh, Brad Goreski, Petra Flannery, and Cristina Ehrlich.

And now, how many runway designers are Commando devotees?

On average, we’ll take part in 30 runway shows each season.

Who was the first designer to use Commando undies on the catwalk?

Prabal Gurung was one of the first. We’ve been working with Lela Rose, Rebecca Minkoff, Milly, Tibi, Monique Lhuillier, and Nicole Miller for a long time, as well.

When did you realize that your underpinnings were a Fashion Week staple?

When my Fashion GPS was completely filled with invitations, and I went from hoping that the underwear was invisible under the clothes to being thrilled that it’s styled as part of the look. Michelle Smith from Milly used our half-slip as the skirt to a coat she was styling last season, and Rebecca Minkoff has used high-rise panties, slips, hosiery, and bralettes in a visible way on the runway in seasons past.

Do you create custom Commando pieces for runway shows?

The Rodarte designers love our underwear, and one season, we created a number of different colors so that the panties could be perfectly styled with each dress.

Which other Commando tools do designers rely on?

Our Matchsticks double-stick tape and our Low Beams nipple concealers.

Commando’s turning 10 this year. Any celebrations in store?

There will be plenty of celebrations, and we’re launching a sleepwear line. We’re also developing the Fashion Icon Thong, a nude thong with crystals on it that celebrates the one worn by Rihanna under her Swarovski-encrusted dress, designed

by Adam Selman, at the CFDA Awards.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Do you have a keen eye for underwear catastrophes?

All my friends are on high alert, because I’m not afraid to tell people when I see panty lines. It’s a professional habit of mine, but I only do it because I can help set them free. I’ve even thought about carrying a whistle around with me to let people know they’re wearing the wrong undergarments.

What drew you to Vermont?

I lived in New York City for a long time, but I’m here because I’m a fourth-generation Vermonter and I love this state.

People live here because of the quality of life, plus there are a lot of interesting

“

I went from hoping that the underwear was invisible under the clothes to being thrilled that it’s styled as part of the look.”

people around. Tata Harper creates her beauty line up here, and about six years ago, when we bought our lake house in Grand Isle, I was thrilled to find out that Karl Lagerfeld has a house there, too.

His place is a couple of miles from ours on Lake Champlain, but I’ve seen him a couple of times in the Burlington area.

He causes quite a scene in New York or Paris, so just imagine seeing him in a restaurant in Burlington, Vermont.

Did anyone else recognize him?

Most didn’t. He was wearing his usual outfit with a whole entourage; everyone else there was dressed in jeans and a fleece.

So are you also a local celebrity out there?

Oh, gosh. I would never describe myself like that, on any level. I have three sisters, so around here I’m just known as “the underwear one.”

Milly Spring 2015

Tadashi Shoji Spring 2015

Rodarte Fall 2012

Undergarments on the runway courtesy of Commando

f i r s t v i e w ; a l l o t h e r s C O U RTE S Y

haUTE Soundtrack

From top: Kate Boy, Father John Misty, and Niia

Ryan Ayanian Tom Atencio

Finely Tuned

Those tunes piping out of the Javits Center speakers aren’t just any old jams—they’ve been curated by Tom Atencio and Ryan Ayanian, music industry pros who’ve brought their musical expertise to Coterie for two years. Like what you’re hearing? Read on! BY DENA SILVER How did you become the go-to music guys for Coterie?

Tom Atencio: This relationship started out with us supplying ENK with three days of interesting music.

Before, they worked with DJs and other pre-recorded music, but ENK decided they wanted something a bit more contemporary. They asked us to create something special, so we started out supplying them with enough licensed, focused music to last all three days. We make CDs as takeaways for attendees, too.

What are your musical backgrounds?

Tom: I co-founded a record company at MCA, Backstreet—we had Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers on it, and we did soundtracks for Universal Pictures movies. Then, I went into personal management for New Order, Jane’s Addiction, and No Doubt. I also co-founded Lollapalooza. Then, Ryan and I started our own music services and consultation company, Curasi.

Ryan Ayanian: I was involved in publishing at RayGun when I was younger, then I did a lot of freelance music work. I was also a music director for Puma.

Tom and I worked together managing bands for years; that’s how we paired up.

Impressive! Tell us some fun tales from being in the music biz.

Ryan: A few years ago, a friend asked if I wanted to come visit some of her friends in the studio. Those friends turned out to be the Rolling Stones. I spent six hours FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

watching them record a song. Mick Jagger fixed me cocktails. I still can’t believe it happened!

How does good music affect the vibe at Coterie?

Ryan: If there’s pleasant music around, it psychologically and subliminally leads to a happier environment. If you’re stuck in a booth or walking around hearing pounding house music all day, it affects you in a negative way. The idea is to create a soothing, pleasing, yet sonic environment.

What goes into crafting the perfect playlist?

Ryan: As a starting point, I thought, “What would I want to hear if I had to be at the Javits Center for three days?” I wouldn’t want to hear house music or pop all day long! So I came up with a template of peaks and valleys of music. I start each morning with Motown, New Soul, and R&B; later in the day, we get into more eclectic fare, like ’80s tunes, and then we play some house music.

Tom: Coterie should be a stimulating place! It’s not just about writing sales; it’s also about making contacts, running into people, and discovering new things.

What types of songs make the cut for Coterie?

Ryan: It’s a delicate balance: it’s got to be a great song that’s clean and not too jarring. We want people to either listen and enjoy it, or not listen and not be bothered by the music.

Do you walk the show floor to get opinions on your musical selections?

Tom: Yeah, it’s important to talk to the From top: Tycho and MØ

vendors, to see what they like or don’t like. It’s also exciting for us—seeing clothes and talking to the people behind them; it sets our creative wheels turning. We also walk around to make sure the music volume is appropriate.

Any new artists you’ll be featuring this season?

Ryan: Niia is phenomenal. We’re also excited about Father John Misty, Charlotte OC, Kate Boy, Tycho, MØ, and LANY this year.

Which artists featured in past seasons have become a big deal?

Ryan: Little Dragon, Zola Jesus, and Milosh, who is the singer of RHYE. How do artists benefit from having their music play at Coterie?

Tom: Everyone at Coterie is a tastemaker. Some people we’ve included in the first set of CDs we offered as takeaways were brand-new then, and are now getting more press and play on the radio.

Niia, who we’re playing this season, was featured on Joie’s blog a week after we secured her song for Coterie. And she doesn’t even have an album out yet!

Ryan: Bands are clamoring to get on these albums!

We’ve actually gotten to the point where we’re turning artists down.

Wow! How do you usually find these artists?

Ryan: It’s a trade secret! Let’s just say it’s a daily process.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY

FA L L / W I N T E R 2 0 1 5

CHIC Boutiques

Top Shop Talk From the chicest mom-andpop boutiques to the most legendary department store stalwarts, The Daily Coterie rounded up some essential intel and upcoming happenings for 15 standout retailers around the globe.

BY ZACHARY WEISS

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Amazon Fashion Unveiled In: 2010 Helmed By: Cathy Beaudoin, president Brands On Tap: Cynthia Rowley, DVF, Giles and Brother, Giuseppe Zanotti, Hugo Boss Orange, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Milly, Moschino Cheap & Chic, Nanette Lepore, Paige, Parker, Rebecca Taylor, See by Chloe, Trina Turk, and ZAC Zac Posen Breaking News: This month, they poached Caroline Palmer from Vogue to serve as director of editorial and social. Quite the chic hire, non?

Bergdorf Goodman Unveiled In: 1899 Helmed By: Joshua Schulman, president Brands On Tap: Tom Ford, Berluti, Chanel, Dior, and Céline Breaking News: The hallowed retailer recently rolled out a series of store takeovers by designers, artists, and influencers. First up, Alexander Wang emblazoned the façade of the iconic store with his bar code–inspired design.

Bloomingdale’s Unveiled In: 1872 Helmed By: Tony Spring, CEO Brands On Tap: DVF, Equipment, Joie, Theory, Vince, Clover Canyon, Current/Elliott, Misha Nonoo, J Brand, Paige, 7 For All Mankind, AG Adriano Goldschmied, and Citizens of Humanity Breaking News: For their latest initiative, 100% Bloomingdale’s, the store’s fashion directors collaborated with fashion icons to create exclusive-to-Bloomie's items.

H. Lorenzo Unveiled In: 1984 Helmed By: Lorenzo Hadar, founder Brands On Tap: Issey Miyake, Ann Demeulemeester, Damir Doma, and Haider Ackermann Breaking News: The women’s shop at the haute store’s Sunset Boulevard location was revamped last year, just in time for the retailer’s 30th anniversary.

Harrods Unveiled In: 1834 Helmed By: Michael Ward, managing director Brands On Tap: Céline, Roland Mouret, Ted Baker, The Row, and Victoria Beckham Breaking News: The store recently unveiled a real estate division that sells luxury properties to shoppers and allows them to take a pre-tour using virtual-reality goggles.

Fun Fact: When the London shop installed the world’s first escalator in 1894, they offered sips of brandy at the top to nurse spooked customers back to health.

Harvey Nichols Unveiled In: 1831 Helmed By: Stacey Cartwright, CEO Brands On Tap: Burberry, Diane von Furstenberg, Givenchy, Lanvin, Pleats Please, Issey Miyake, and Valentino Breaking News: A new 80,000-squarefeet shop in Qatar will open in early 2017 to sell fashion, beauty, children’s wear, homeware, plus luxe hospitality services.

Holt Renfrew

Lord & Taylor

Unveiled In: 1837 Helmed By: Mark Derbyshire, president Brands On Tap: Balenciaga, Carven, Chanel, Gucci, Prada, Rick Owens, and Tom FordBreaking News: A $300 million redesign, with 40 percent more square footage, debuted in the Vancouver, Calgary, and Bloor Street locations.

Unveiled In: 1826 Helmed By: Liz Rodbell, president of Lord & Taylor and Hudson’s Bay Brands On Tap: Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, DKNY, Vince Camuto, and BCBGMAXAZRIA Breaking News: A concept shop, Brand Assembly, launched in the fall, featuring up-andcoming advanced contemporary designers.

For Spring 2015, new designers include Whit, Morgan Carper, Rodebjer, Ready to Fish, Nikki Chas, and Emmer.

Joan Shepp Unveiled In: 1971 Helmed By: Joan and Ellen Shepp, co-founders Brands On Tap: Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, Stella McCartney, and Comme des Garçons Breaking News: Last year, the Philly retailer moved to a new location at 1811 Chestnut Street, featuring a beautiful outdoor garden.

Kirna Zabete Unveiled In: 1999 Helmed By: Sarah Easley and Beth Buccini, co-founders Brands On Tap: Valentino, Saint Laurent, Dior, Alaïa, Céline, Givenchy, Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Anthony Vaccarello, Chloé, Fendi, and Dolce & Gabbana Breaking News: A newer, bigger Soho store and a top-secret project are both set to debut on May 1.

Moda Operandi Unveiled In: 2010 Helmed By: Deborah Nicodemus, CEO Brands On Tap: Marc Jacobs, Rosie Assoulin, Proenza Schouler, Delpozo, and Mary Katrantzou Breaking News: The chic online retailer debuted a private shopping destination in London to hosts clients, designer trunk shows, and bespoke events.

Neiman Marcus Unveiled In: 1907 Helmed By: Karen Katz, CEO and president of the Neiman Marcus Group Brands On Tap: Oscar de la Renta, Fendi, Akris, Alexander Wang, Burberry, Saint Laurent, The Row, and Brunello Cucinelli Breaking News: Three locations now feature inTouch Interactive Tables, for searching inventory in all Neiman locations.

Ron Herman Unveiled In: 1976 Helmed By: Ron Herman, owner Brands On Tap: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang, Moncler, Rag & Bone, Skull Cashmere, and Zimmermann Breaking News: Major expansion mode!

The retailer has opened 12 new stores in the past five years. Now, Ron Herman has its sights set on Japan.

Saks Fifth Avenue Unveiled In: 1924 Helmed By: Marigay McKee, president Brands On Tap: Alexander McQueen, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, Oscar de la Renta, Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, and Valentino Breaking News: Its catalogs have gotten a stylish reboot. Also, a location in NYC’s Brookfield Place will bow in 2016.

Shopbop Unveiled In: 2000 Helmed By: Jeff Yurcisin, president Brands On Tap: Pedro Garcia, A.P.C., Opening Ceremony, Prada, Jenni Kayne, Suno, and Gorjana Breaking News: Shopbop’s brother site, East Dane, is a sponsor of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, launching in July. Plus, the e-tailer recently branched into the wearable tech realm by carrying buzzy bauble line, Ringly.

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SAVVY Shoppers

Meet the Buyers Buyers are the VIPs at Coterie. So, what’s on their radars this season? The full scoop, right this way… BY DENA SILVER

Bloomingdale’s

Brooke Jaffe, Operating Vice President and Fashion Director, Women’s Ready-to-Wear What’s your background?

I began my career as an assistant to the accessories director at Vogue. I became an assistant editor, then associate accessories editor there. I then joined InStyle as accessories editor. I came to Bloomingdale’s in August 2007; in the summer of 2013, I was promoted to my current role.

How big is the Bloomies’ buying team?

The women’s ready-to-wear team has 18 buyers.

How do you scout trends for each Bloomingdale’s location?

My job is to determine trends, and prioritize which would work well for Bloomingdale’s. We pick trends and buy with a focused, customer-centric point of view. We carefully consider each store’s needs by location.

What’s your trade show game plan?

I go hoping to discover brands that are new and exciting, and that fill voids in our assortments.

Looking for anything specific this season?

We’re scouting for brands that can stand on their own and make a statement without competing too harshly with our existing brands.

What trends do you predict to see for Fall?

We’ll see a lot of rich colors, like green and Bordeaux, and the bohemian trend will continue!

Lord & Taylor

Stephanie Solomon, VP and Fashion Director, Women’s Ready-to-Wear, Accessories, and Shoes What’s your backstory?

I have more than 30 years of experience as a fashion director; I started at Bloomingdale’s. I joined Lord & Taylor in September 2013.

How do you prep for a long day of buying?

Comfortable shoes are a must!

How do you discover new talent when walking the trade show floor?

If you take your time and cover a lot of ground, there’s always something new to see. But it’s generally like finding a needle in a haystack!

What’s the most important question to ask exhibitors?

Finding out about their production capabilities.

What can we find in your purse on show day?

Aspirin, business cards, my iPhone, a power bar, and a sense of humor.

What trends are you excited to see this season?

I anticipate a big ’70s revival trend.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Amazon Fashion

CeCe Gehrig, Fashion Editor, Shoes, Handbags, Jewelry, and Watches What are the top brands that Amazon Fashion carries?

We carry so many standout brands. I’m excited about Jeremy Scott’s Love Moschino and Moschino Cheap & Chic lines for Spring: The product is trendy, but with a playful twist.

What were you doing pre-Amazon Fashion?

After wrapping up my undergraduate degree, I attended Parsons School of Design. I’ve worked at Henri Bendel, the Doneger Group, and served as fashion director at Macy’s and Endless.com before joining Amazon Fashion in spring 2012.

What’s the most important question to ask exhibitors?

“What’s your brand’s point of view?”

What type of brands are you looking to buy for the Fall season?

Brands with a bold, new color perspective, and brands that are using new, innovative materials. I’d also love to see fashion jewelry brands take on the wearable technology trend.

Gilt.com

Devina Foley, VP of Merchandising What were you doing before you arrived at Gilt?

I came from the specialty apparel world; I spent nine years at Gap and four years at LOFT. I joined Gilt in September 2014.

What type of prep happens before a trade show?

The buyers are running their numbers constantly to see how much they can spend. We launch an entirely new website eight times a week, so we want to capture all of the opportunities that we see in sales trends.

How often do you discover new talent on the trade show floor?

Every single time!

What’s the most important question to ask exhibitors at a trade show?

“What do you love the most in your line?”

They’ve been working with this product for months and if they still love a piece after seeing it over and over, it will be a best seller.

How do you energize for a day at the trade shows?

A big breakfast. I can’t function if I’m hungry.

I don’t drink coffee; I just need food!

B FA N YC . C O M ; A L L O T H E R S C O U R T E S Y

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CInderella Story

Shoshanna Gruss’s playful, flirty designs put her on the map as the go-to girl for flattering day-to-night dresses. Now, the frock star is branching out into evening garb with the introduction of a new line, Midnight. Belles of the ball, take note!

BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

Why did you make the entré into eveningwear?

When I first launched Shoshanna, I was focused on going-out pieces; I needed more date dresses. Since then, the collection has really grown up, and so have I! Since we started, I’ve become a wife, a mom, and a businesswoman. Now I need clothes for luncheons and evening events, and my customer is right there with me. We’ve always sold cocktail dresses alongside our daywear, and the cocktail pieces always sold out.

Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Shopbop have already picked up Midnight for their evening departments.

What’s the story behind the name Midnight?

Shoshanna is known for a lot of day-to-night pieces, but this collection is totally not that. I was envisioning the ball, when you’re out at midnight. This is a true evening collection.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Does eveningwear mean strictly gowns?

There are a lot of separates in the line, including bustiers.

And while there will be some jumpsuits in the next collection, this collection is mostly gowns and separates.

When you’ve got a fancy night out on your calendar, what kind of pieces do you opt for?

I’m always looking for pieces that are a little more fun and youthful. Sometimes evening can seem a little too serious!

So for Midnight I made sure my love of color really shines through. I also added glam details, like fancy beading.

What are your favorite fancy events to attend?

I was the vice chair for the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Associates Committee for five years and the chairman for two, so I’ll consistently attend and support their events for the rest of my life. Not only are they fun, but a big group of my friends are involved as well.

Which New York soirées draw the chicest crowds?

I haven’t been in a while, but everyone always looks incredible at the New York Botanical Garden Conservatory Ball.

Also, this year Monique Lhuillier co-hosted the Society of Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center’s Fall Party—everyone looked gorgeous. I wore a beautiful dress of Monique’s.

It was pink and white with a skull beaded into it. My whole look was very “sugar and spice.”

Who are the best-dressed ladies on the gala circuit?

Hmmm, there are many! I happen to think Eleanor Ylvisaker is the best-dressed woman out there, always. And Dani Stahl always looks elegant but cool.

Let’s discuss the best-dressed chicettes on the redcarpet scene.

Cate Blanchett always kills it! Her face, her hair, her clothes, everything! Julianne Moore always looks impeccable and age-appropriate, and Naomi Watts is stunning and really natural-looking in person.

How long does it take you to primp when going out?

Getting ready is my favorite part of the night! I love putting together my outfit. Figuring out the shoes, jewelry, hair, and makeup always feels like an arts-and-crafts project. First, I usually go for a blowout. Then, I get my makeup done at home, which usually involves a smoky eye. That means there will be three children and the dog running around, with one kid sitting on my lap, but it’s still fun! Then Sienna, my oldest daughter, gets involved and tells me what looks good and what doesn’t.

What are your favorite accessories for a night out?

Edie Parker is usually a go-to for me, and I’m also obsessed with Olympia Le-Tan. I collect her bags, but I’ve never used them! They’re more like art pieces—I’m scared to spill drinks on them. As for shoes, I’m a huge Nicholas Kirkwood and Charlotte Olympia fan.

I’m short, so I need a platform, which both designers do

really well.

What about fragrance and lip color?

I wear Elizabeth Arden Untold as my scent; it’s really good and very beautiful. And I like Kevyn Aucoin lip gloss.

What’s your mascara of choice?

I’m very serious about mascara, and Lancôme Hypnôse is no joke! I always do my own mascara.

No one else has ever done it. It’s the one item I’d want to take with me if I was stranded on a desert island.

What’s your curfew?

I get home as fast as I can! I was very good at staying out until 4 a.m. when I was younger, but I learned that nothing good happens after midnight!

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