FA S H I O N L O S A N G E L E S A WA R D S SPRING 2019
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BEAUTY FROM THE SOURCE Head-to-toe essentials infused with antioxidant-rich argan oil. A powerful source of nourishment, proven time and again.
Find a salon at Moroccanoil.com BARNEYS NEW YORK , BLUEMERCURY, NORDS TROM, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE , SEPHORA & LUXURY RESORTS
ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y
SLUGTK CHIC Moments Subslug DISCO FEVER The show closed with models dancing on the runway.
Tommy TAKES PARIS
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Winnie Harlow
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Hilfiger and Zendaya
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For the first time ever, Tommy Hilfiger presented at Paris Fashion Week. The line, designed with Zendaya, was an all-out ’70s party. There was disco, glam, and a tribute to the Battle of Versailles—the historic 1973 fashion show in which American designers and models went head-to-head with their French counterparts, wowing the world. With high-waisted trousers, silky shirts, and flowing dresses, there was a little something for everyone. “The inclusive Tommy x Zendaya collection celebrates the democratic and empowering spirit that is at the heart of our partnership with Zendaya,” Hilfiger said. Pat Cleveland, who walked in the original Battle of Versailles, graced Hilfiger’s runway, as did icons like Grace Jones, Beverly Johnson, and Veronica Webb. The show ended with a dance party on the runway, but for guests like Janelle Monáe and Yara Shahidi, the night kept going at the after-party. The best part of the event was that fans don’t have to wait to get their hands on the collection—every piece is available online now.
“FASHION IS MORE THAN JUST WEARING COOL CLOTHES. IT’S A WAY TO CELEBRATE SELF-EXPRESSION AND INDIVIDUALITY, WHICH IS EXTREMELY EMPOWERING.” —Zendaya
CONFESSIONS ON A DANCE FLOOR An aerial view of the lit-up disco runway.
Leomie Anderson Ally Hilfiger
Thylane Blondeau and Tina Kunakey
Grace Jones
Sveva Alviti
Beverly Peele, Beverly Johnson, and Veronica Webb CO U RT E SY
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Pat Cleveland
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Gigi Hadid Sabrina Dhowre, Christian Louboutin, and Emma Thynn, Viscountess Weymouth
“Work to the rhythm, Live to the rhythm, Love to the rhythm, Slave to the rhythm” —Grace Jones, “Slave to the Rhythm”
Lewis Hamilton
Larsen Thompson
Janelle Monáe
Olivia Palermo and Johannes Huebl
Yara Shahidi
Lucas Jagger Derek Blasberg Tyra Banks
Cartia Mallan, Sammy Robinson, and Georgia Fowler
Jasmine Sanders Andrés Velencoso
Charlotte Le Bon
Luka Sabbat
Dee Hilfiger
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WORKING WOMEN Blazers, trousers, and flowing skirts were key looks this season.
Marquita Pring, Chrystèle Saint Louis Augustin, Halima Aden, and Dilone
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Move Classique Collection with Gigi Hadid
ME S S IKA. COM # Di a m on d Ad d i cti on
CHICMoments
CATWALK CREW Kendall Jenner, Stella Maxwell, Gigi and Bella Hadid, and Kaia Gerber rocked Versace’s latest designs.
SAFETY FIRST
Fashion is having a bona fide ’90s moment, and even Italian glamazons like Donatella Versace are not immune to its charms. Her Fall ’19 show—the first since the brand’s acquisition by Capri Holdings Limited—courted the nostalgic millennial set, and they’re sure to gravitate toward these acid-hued slipdresses, bondagestyle tops, and look-at-me microminis.
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GRUNGE GODDESS
DONATELLA VERSACE USED SOME OF THE BRAND’S SIGNATURE MOTIFS— LIKE SAFETY PINS AND THE MEDUSA HEAD—TO DAZZLING, UNEXPECTED EFFECT.
FIRSTVIEW (14)
Donatella Versace
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WINNING
JACKPOT Le fric, c’est chic. Jeremy Scott is always playing games—in the best possible way. At the designer’s Fall 2019 show for Moschino, he looked to classic TV shows like The Price Is Right and Press Your Luck, and the results were totally money. From a bill-print ensemble on Kaia Gerber to draped, crystal-trimmed gowns that Vanna White would love, fashion’s reigning enfant terrible ensured, yet again, that the world is paying attention to whatever he creates.
SO FRESH!
SCOTT’S CELEBRATORY SEND-UP OF CONSUMER GOODS INCLUDED A LARGE HANDBAG SHAPED LIKE A TUBE OF TOOTHPASTE.
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Jeremy Scott
WHAT’S THE ONE ACTIVITY YOU DO ON EVERY SINGLE TRIP TO L.A.?
Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO
Chief Content Officer Executive Editor & Director, Strategic Partnerships Eddie Roche Ashley Baker
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FASHION MONTH MEMORIES!
Finally—it’s Fashion Los Angeles Awards time! We are profoundly excited to decamp to L.A. and celebrate the beautiful marriage of fashion and Hollywood. Adriana, Candice, Katie, Slick—the gang is definitely heading to the Beverly Hills Hotel on Sunday, March 17. Devour this issue, which is dedicated to the creatives and luminaries who matter most right this minute. See you at the awards—and follow along at #FLAs2019!
The entire Tomo Koizumi collection, which debuted at Marc Jacobs’ Madison Avenue store …and Marc Jacobs’ entire collection, which was the best in recent memory
Barry Manilow’s performance at Michael Kors An Oprah sighting at Stella McCartney!
Managing Editor Tangie Silva Creative Director Dean Quigley Digital Director Charles Manning
“In-N-Out burger, animalstyle, within an hour of arrival at LAX!”
Fashion News Editor Aria Darcella West Coast Editor-at-Large, Fashion & Beauty Partnerships Jordan Duffy Contributing Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Romke Hoogwaerts
CHIC-OVERS! JEFF BEZOS & LAUREN SANCHEZ EDITION You’re total chicsters with style to spare. But now that you’re the toast of the town, it’s time to eschew those elegant basics and dive into fashion. We have thoughts!
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection for Moncler
Imaging Specialist Nola Romano
An incognito look is essential. Balenciaga’s excessively intriguing ’80s ensembles are guaranteed to confuse the hell out of everyone.
Interns Caitlyn Mae Arana, Ryan McDevitt, Victoria Montalti, Thea Pekarek
Mark Tevis Senior Advisor
FOR DATE NIGHT AT SPAGO!
Lela Rose’s Roseminster dog show!
Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise
FOR HOUSEHUNTING!
The paparazzi will be waiting—so give them something worthy of their snaps! The Daily Mail is gonna love these directional looks from renegade designer du moment Christian Cowan.
Lady Gaga and Bradley Cooper’s Oscar performance—the talk of the front row!
“Tap it back at SoulCycle Weho!”
Senior Director, Brand Partnerships Betsy Jones Executive Sales Director Carrie Brudner Fashion Publishing Director Monica Forman Publishing & Market Research Nandini Vaid Digital Operations Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor
To advertise, call (646) 768-8101 Or e-mail: advertising@dailyfrontrow.com The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright © 2019. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 810 Seventh Avenue, Ste. 400A, New York, NY 10019.
SPEAKING OF THE BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL…
The iconic property has recently renovated two of its storied bungalows to pay homage to regular guests Marilyn Monroe and Howard Hughes. Bungalow 1, which has been reconfigured by Champalimaud Design, includes a Chanel No. 5 perfume bar and a champagne bath paired with a bottle of Dom Pérignon. Guests can order prawn cocktail, DiMaggio’s spaghetti and meatballs, and more from “Marilyn’s Menu.” In Bungalow 3, which has a refined Art Deco vibe, guests are invited to order roast beef sandwiches and have them delivered to an adjacent tree, à la Hughes. Starting at $8,500 a night, beverlyhills.grandluxuryhotels.com
FOR MEETINGS WITH LAWYERS!
Even when there are billions involved, matters of the law tend to be so blasé. Cure your boredom with these deconstructed profesh looks from Thom Browne, and give the legal community something to talk about!
ON THE COVER: Adriana Lima, photographed by Vincent Peters/Trunk Archive
G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 1 0 ) ; F I R S T V I E W ( 5 ) ; S H U T T E R S T O C K ( 4 ) ; C O U R T E S Y B E V E R LY H I L L H O T E L ( 1 )
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“Sunset cocktails at Nobu Malibu. Luckily, my friends live right across the street on PCH!”
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WANT A MARVELWORTHY BOD?
WHERE TO EAT! When in Los Angeles,
a few new spots to consider… JON & VINNY’S ITALIAN
KONBI
Finally, a second outpost of the Fairfax sensation! The menu is essentially the same, and the dining room is (dare we say it) even better. 11938 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood
It’s the egg sandwich that’s been clogging up your Insta feed—this coffee/daytime spot from Akira Akuto and Nick Montgomery is drawing both tourists and locals alike. 1463 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park
BLACKSHIP Keiichi Kurobe, the former sous chef of Hinoki & the Bird, has opened a Japanese-Italian restaurant with a gorgeous covered patio. We dare you to resist the carbonara ramen, made with kurobuta chashu, Chino Valley farm yolk, and Parmesan. 8512 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood
TACOS 1986 Fresh tortillas and a to-die-for mushroom taco are among the many reasons it’s worth visiting Koreatown to check out this ultra-casual street food sensation. 611 S. Western Ave., Koreatown
ATRIUM This fab neighborhood restaurant from Beau Laughlin and Jay Milliken is right behind Skylight Books. 1816 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz
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OVERDUE CATCH-UP!
WITH JOE ZEE, EXECUTIVE PRODUCER OF NETFLIX SENSATION 7 DAYS OUT
How did you get involved in this fabulous documentary series? The idea came out of a meeting I had at Sony Studios over two years ago, the day after the Oscars. I was recounting stories there about Hollywood trainer Jason Walsh everything that was happening to the rescue! He developed behind the scenes for the dresses coming a two-week training program for some of the nominees and really that’s based on the routines stressing the fact that, while we love these that Brie Larson undertook to big events, it was the story behind the story prepare for her role in Captain that was the most riveting. 7 Days Out Marvel. Thanks to a collab with was born. But it wasn’t until Andrew Rossi Disney and Playbook App, this (our fellow EP and director and acclaimed series of six 45-minute routines director of The First Monday in May) and can be played on a smartphone Andrew Fried (one of the brains behind or a tablet. They include circuit Chef’s Table) came onboard that we all training with resistance bands, brought this idea to reality. core work, deadlifts, and more! Tell us your favorite moments from documenting the Chanel couture show! Even having been to tens of thousands of fashion shows and countless Chanel shows, I still learned a tremendous amount being UNCONFIDENTIAL! imbedded with these incredible ateliers. Back in New York, The Cinema Those ateliers filled with so many trained, Society screened The Inventor: dedicated millennial artisans making these Out for Blood in Silicon Valley, clothes was the most interesting fact to me. Alex Gibney’s incredible new What’s your favorite episode? documentary about the I love all these episodes so much because downfall of Theranos and its the topics are so varied, and you really get founder, Elizabeth Holmes. this mini movie aspect with each one, but aside from Chanel, I have a special place in my heart for the NASA episode. It was the first one we filmed, and the last one we edited, but seeing the end of that 20 year Cassini mission was inspiring. I never thought I would tear up over a spacecraft Ashley Haas but I have, every single time I’ve watched Sela Ward that episode—and I have seen it almost 40 times. What else are you up to these days? Discussing another season of 7 Days Out! We love this series so much, but it’s a very complex show to do with access, Sami Gayle pre-production, storytelling, etc. so it requires a lot of background work to + IN OTHER FOOD bring it all to life. But yes, we love it NEWS… and there are hundreds of events Enrique Olvera and Daniela Sotoaround the world we would love Innes are opening two L.A. spots this to see more of. I have multiple summer in the Arts District. Damian will things in development right be a sit-down joint that showcases modern now, including a big scripted Mexican cuisine; Ditroit will be on the more project that I am pumped casual side.… After a nine-year hiatus, about. Everything is seen the Michelin Guide is bringing back a through such a global filter now (something we were very California Guide as part of a partnership conscious of with 7 Days Out) with Visit California, the state’s Candice Bergen that developing and creating tourism board. It’s expected to be content has such a bigger and published later this year. broader base than just the States.
THERANOS,
PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 4 ) ; S H U T T E R S T O C K ( 4 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 2 ) ; B L A C K S H I P ( 2 ) A L I C I A C H O ( 1 ) ; F I R S T V I E W ( 1 ) ; M A R V E L ( 1 ) ; J O S H U A W H I T E ( 1 )
A bit of retail news: Mark Badgley and James Mischka have opened a Badgley Mischka boutique in an historic building at 8619 Sunset Boulevard in West Hollywood’s Sunset Plaza. The opening party drew the likes of Caitlyn Jenner, Molly Shannon, and Keisha Whitaker. Farfetch has opened a sprawling new 25,000-square-foot headquarters in downtown Los Angeles. Kaia Gerber was recently spotted at Skin Camp, a new studio offering “workouts for your face” at 8240 Beverly Boulevard in Beverly Grove.
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VINCENT PETERS/TRUNK ARCHIVE
MEET THE 2019 HONOREES... FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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GREAT EXPECTATIONS Stunning Lima has been a longtime face of Maybelline New York, walked in numerous runway shows, and covered magazines such as LOVE and Harper’s Bazaar.
SUPER
STAR As the longest-reigning Victoria’s Secret Angel, longtime face of Maybelline New York and runway legend Adriana Lima has officially achieved icon status. THE DAILY caught up with the Brazilian bombshell to reflect on her storied career. BY EDDIE ROCHE When did your career really start? When I first arrived in New York at 16 years old, I met Ellen von Unwerth and we did my first photo shoot for a Japanese magazine. She gave me plenty of work in editorials and campaigns at the beginning. After
that exposure, I started working with Steven Meisel. We shot Italian Vogue, and that brought me to high fashion. Signing my first contract with Victoria’s Secret in 1999 was another major moment. It made you a household name. Thanks to them, I was known around the world. What does the word “icon” mean to you? I’ve never seen myself as a fashion icon. To receive the award is an honor for me. I am inspired by movies and different actresses—Rita Hayworth, Sophia Loren, Lauren Bacall, Ava Gardner, and Michelle Pfeiffer. Which photos are you most proud of ? I have a few in my house that we took for Victoria’s Secret, which we shot in Mexico. The pictures make me feel like I’m back home in Bahia [Brazil]. I feel really connected to them. One of my favorite moments was shooting the campaign for the fragrance Decadence by Marc Jacobs. It felt like there was something iconic and timeless [in the image].
You’ve spent a lot of days on set. What are some of the craziest things you’ve been asked to do? I had to be on roller skates once, and I couldn’t do it—I couldn’t stand up! It was funny and awkward at the same time. In a different editorial, they put me in a blonde wig. I didn’t think it was going to work because of my skin tone. They were nice pictures in the end, but I don’t like myself with blonde hair. What advice would you give your younger self ? I always say to myself to be myself at all times. When I go to a photo shoot—or anywhere—I bring the Adriana Lima from Bahia. I don’t create [the persona] of something I’m not. I am who I am, and that’s who I bring into my work.
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MAGIC MOMENTS Some highlights from Lima’s life, both on and off the runway.
You got very emotional walking in your final Victoria’s Secret show last year. Did you expect that? Yes! I knew for a year [beforehand] that it would be my last walk, and I was emotional all year about it, because I hold the brand in my heart. I truly loved the work we’ve done together. I was trying my best not to cry, but I just broke down in tears. I loved walking the runway. It was always the highlight of my life. Knowing that it was my last time wasn’t easy to take in. It was very emotional. During the rehearsal, they had a surprise for me that I didn’t know about. I didn’t know they were going to do a video and segment dedicated to me. When I saw that, I broke down in tears. I had no clue. I felt very appreciated and loved by everyone. It was a wonderful feeling. I broke down in tears because I was sad, but also because of the love expressed. It’s not just the brand but the girls, my dressers, the makeup artists. Did a lot of the models come up to you and tell you what you meant to them? Yes. They gave me a lot of hugs and said it wasn’t going to be the same without me and they’d miss me. You’ve been with Maybelline New York for a long time. What were your early days like? Maybelline has been working with me since I was 19, and we became like a family. I saw the brand grow, and the commercials are a much bigger production now. They have the best makeup, hair, and stylists in the industry. It’s been a pleasure. You’re the face of the Puma x Maybelline New York collaboration. Did you have anything to do with that pairing? I’m not sure how it came together, but I’m a Puma ambassador and the brilliant idea came to create a makeup line for women who are active and on the go and don’t have time to be redoing their makeup. They created this line, which is sweatproof. It stays on. It’s incredible! I have a lot of friends who are athletes and they want to wear makeup. They haven’t been able to
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I USE FASHION AS A TOOL TO INSPIRE WOMEN TO TAKE CARE OF THEMSELVES. AGE IS NOT IMPORTANT. IT’S ALL ABOUT HOW YOU CARRY YOURSELF.”
in the past because it would come off, and so they’re excited about it. Who do you credit with helping to launch your modeling career? My mom. Some of her friends told her I should become a model. She introduced me to an agency in my hometown, and that’s how everything started. What does she think of your success today? She’s very proud. I don’t think we knew that I would achieve so much. I never thought my name would be known globally. My whole family is proud. They’ve supported me all the way.
We’re honoring you as Fashion Icon. Do you remember the first thing you’ve ever won? At school, there was a competition for a scholarship, and you had to paint. I painted a little girl sitting on the moon. I used to draw a lot before. I got that talent from my father, who is an artist. I won! How much longer do you want to model? I want to continue modeling! I’m 37 and I want to show the world that a powerful woman can be beautiful as a mature woman and as a mom. I use fashion as a tool to inspire women to take care of themselves. Age is not important. It’s all about how you carry yourself. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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SWEAT EQUITY FASHION ENTREPRENEUR
When Kate Hudson announced she was starting an athletic apparel brand, all eyes were on the Academy Award–nominated actress. Since launching Fabletics in 2013, her line has opened 25 retail stores across the U.S., boasts more than 1.2 million VIP members worldwide, and generated sales of $300M in net revenue globally. THE DAILY caught up with the new queen of athleisure to find out how she plans on growing the brand, and the secret sauce behind her success.
What inspired the launch of Fabletics? What was the initial concept? There was a big hole in the market. The world of athleticwear was all grays and blacks—very monochromatic. We wanted to come in and provide athleticwear that has the technology that you could perform in, but that was cute, fashionable, and affordable. I partnered with these guys over at TechStyle, who were the perfect partners because we were able to get a quality product to the consumer at an amazing price. We really were at the beginning of the whole athleisure explosion. We came in with lots of color, and women really responded to it. Here we are, five years later, with a big company, and it just gets better and better, and we have more and more fun.
Fabletics offers sizes from XXS to 3XL. Why is inclusivity so important to you? It’s just a responsibility to a brand to be as inclusive as we can. Our entire foundation is based on inclusivity, living your best life, living your healthiest life, being as active as you can be, being supportive, and connecting with people in communities. It wouldn’t make sense for our company to not include everybody. It’s the same reason why I partnered with Weight Watchers—people are always looking for a place where everybody’s welcome. It’s a passionate world. Anybody who’s in the wellness space who is really about healthy and active living, it’s a really inspiring space to be in because there’s a purpose to what your goals are. That has to include everybody.
Tell us about teaming up with your co-CEOs, Adam Goldenberg and Don Ressler. I work closely with Adam. He is a rock star of a partner. Adam really has been wonderful. We have a great time together. He’s the president over at Fabletics and also a partner in the overall company, TechStyle, but Adam really understands the numbers. He’s one of those partners who allows for a real understanding of bringing people in, listening to brand messaging, and taking risks without ever putting ourselves in any danger. What are some of those risks? We want to try new things because we want to see what works and what resonates with girls. At the same time, because of our technology, we’re able to really understand what girls want, so we create less
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HANDS ON Hudson lives in her Fabletics apparel as much as her customer does.
waste. That’s really important to us—that we’re not putting all this waste out into the world. We know that the things that we’re going to make are actually going to be worn and used. After only a year in business, Fabletics launched in Europe. Why do you think the brand was so successful so quickly? It’s a number of things. It’s luck. It’s talent. It’s innovative thinking, and it’s being at the right place at the right time. And being on top of the white space. But I think that the special sauce is authenticity. You can come in and be like, there’s nothing like this out there that hopefully will be a successful model or a successful business, and it won’t hit because it doesn’t come from an honest place. You have to be super authentic. Right now, I’m literally head-to-toe in my own clothes. Nobody’s watching me. I’m not looking to post anything. It’s just how I live. People feel that, they know that, and then they trust it. If you can make a good product and they know you’re striving to make the product the best it can be, then they continue to trust you. Who are your most trusted sounding boards? My partner [Danny Fujikawa], my mom [Goldie Hawn], and Ollie, my brother. Family! How big is the brand these days, and how do you hope to grow it in 2019 and beyond? We have 24 stores across the U.S. We’re starting to do pop-ups. We’re in 12 different countries, and we’re expanding to many more. We’re opening a lot more stores in the next two and a half years. We really hit some big numbers, and we’re always striving to make
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I SET OUT TO DO SOMETHING THAT WOULD BE INSPIRING TO OTHERS… WHAT ENDS UP HAPPENING IS THAT THEY BECOME INSPIRATIONAL TO ME.”
the best product, and keep growing and growing. I’m so grateful that girls love it, and they’re so loyal. We really have an incredibly loyal membership community. How has the customer responded to your membership concept? It took a second for people to understand what it was, but now that they’re getting it, they love it. It keeps customers engaged, and it makes creating original content fun. We have over a million-and-a-half members. Can customers buy retail at the stores? Yes, and you can use your VIP membership as well. What’s the most challenging part of running your own brand? It’s nonstop. You’re always going. I’m really lucky, because I’m not doing the heavy lifting. I’ve got the most amazing team. Our CMO, the president of the company, our design team…everyone works so hard. Sometimes I come in to make sure certain things are happening a certain way, but everyone’s so wonderful. What’s your favorite part of your fashion job? The community. I set out to do something that would be inspiring to others, and then, of course, what ends up happening is that they become inspirational to me. I like to connect with people, period. What’s your favorite workout these days? I’m a Pilates diehard! I love dance workouts as well. The one thing I want to try is Barry’s Bootcamp. I have a friend who loves Barry. If I can’t get out, I have a Peloton. I almost wish I could do a sweepstakes of Peloton every year, because it’s just such an amazing thing when it’s in your home. Talk about no excuses!
The Sydney twist front hoodie in Espresso
The Ellie high-support zip-front sports bra in Haze Gray/ Black Shine/Iron Shine
The Zoe high-impact sports bra in Everglade
The Olesia shine short in Everglade Shine/Iron
The mid-rise trinity mesh powertouch crop pant in Dusty Rose FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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CREATIVES OF THE YEAR
Last year, LOVE magazine editrix Katie Grand and YouTube’s head of fashion and beauty Derek Blasberg joined forces to create #MovingLOVE, a moving version of what was traditionally known as a magazine. The power duo enlisted an impressive crew of friends like Kaia Gerber, Kate Moss, and Bella Hadid to create more than 50 videos for the project, which received 16 million views…and counting! THE DAILY asked the collaborators to interview each other to reveal how it all came about.
CONNECTION Derek Blasberg: I’ve never done an interview where I can be both congratulatory and self-congratulatory at the same time. How fun is this? Katie Grand: It’s perfect for you. Blasberg: I know! Congrats to you and me, too. Grand: We’re here to talk about #MovingLOVE, the series of films that we collaborated on at the end of 2018. Blasberg: You were one of the first calls I made after I joined YouTube. Remember having lunch after the Schiaparelli couture show in Paris and cooking up this idea? Did you already know what #MovingLOVE was going to be then? Grand: I was excited that you were going to YouTube because it felt like quite a monumental move. You’re so well known in the worlds of fashion and magazines, so for you to go to a tech company was exciting. I wanted to be a part of it, too. Blasberg: For my part, I had always wanted to work with the illustrious Katie Grand! Sure, I have interviewed Cher and Linda Evangelista for LOVE, but this was the first time we had a proper, real collaboration on a larger,
more thorough project. Something that required a lot more of us chatting and brainstorming. Grand: And drinking coffee. Blasberg: It wasn’t a light lift, was it? I just looked at the numbers and in total we put together 54 videos that clocked nearly 16 million views and 24 million minutes of watch time. Grand: That sounds like a lot, doesn’t it? Blasberg: If my math is right, that works out to more than 44 years. Leonardo DiCaprio is 44 years old, so it would be like if he was born and did nothing but watch #MovingLOVE for his entire life. Grand: Who had the most views? Blasberg: Bella Hadid and her video on being comfortable in her own skin. I feel partial to this video because I visited the set that day, and I remember thinking, “If Bella Hadid wearing this strapping Saint Laurent one-piece swimsuit doesn’t get views, I don’t know what will.” Grand: What was great was how you pushed the project forward and told us to find a narrative for each of the characters.
ALL THE RIGHT MOVES The project was the first major collaboration between Blasberg and Grand.
Blasberg: That’s because YouTube is a platform that feeds on an engaging narrative. It’s not just pretty pictures. To win on YouTube, you have to tell a story, reveal a secret, show a little leg—which Bella did, literally! I think when people come to YouTube, they want to learn something. That’s why beauty tutorials do so well. You have someone who looks bad at the start and looks good at the end, and you learn all these tips along the way. Grand: There were moments when we were filming that are still inspiring. On the last day, when we were shooting in a tiny office about the size of your wardrobe, we had Kate Moss and April Ashley in hair and makeup at the same time. April was a model in the 1950s, until she was outed by a British paper in 1961 for being transgender. It was amazing to have two icons from different generations in the same room, just having a chat. Blasberg: What I thought was so fascinating about Kate’s story was how she said she still gets nervous before the first shot on a modeling job. She said she’s asking, “What am I doing here? Why have they booked me?” Grand: Kate arrived while Samantha Morton was still
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LOVE
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I DON’T THINK ANYONE REALLY WANTS TO STAND IN THE KITCHEN AND TALK ABOUT BUDGETS AT 10 AT NIGHT, BUT WHATEVER GETS IT DONE!”—Katie Grand shooting, and Sam had given this amazing, well thoughtout performance where she did this dramatic reading and danced like a wild woman. Kate walked in and stood there shaking her head and said, “I can’t follow that!” But the minute Kate got in front of the cameras and realized she was alone, she loosened up. At one point she said, “I might do some somber dancing,” and then did. At five in the afternoon, it was quite charming. Blasberg: How did you hear about April Ashley? Grand: April had came through Paul Flynn, who worked on LOVE, and he said when we were finishing casting, “Have you ever thought about April?” I didn’t know much about her and then started reading about her, and she just seemed like such an icon and personality and was perfect for this project. Everyone was definitely excited about shooting her. Blasberg: YouTube is a platform that feels primarily digital, and lots of content is shot on phones and on the go. But you flipped the switch on that and used vintage movie cameras that look almost analog. Tell me about those and about how it was to work with your husband, Steve Mackey. Grand: We had four original film cameras from the 1970s, which looked like the BBC from that era. Steve and his partner, Douglas Hart of Call This Number, had been researching them for about five years and they’d slowly been buying them online. We’d have these weird packages turn up to the house, giant boxes of lights and tubes and whatever else they needed. Steve and Doug are both ex–bass players, so they first started using these cameras to film bands and other performers, like M.I.A., Peaches, and the Jon Spencer Blues Explosion. I just thought that could be really nice with what I do in the fashion space. At first, they were kind of reluctant to get involved, but in the end they got into it. Blasberg: This is the closest you two have probably ever worked together. Grand: It was intense. I don’t think anyone really wants to stand in the kitchen and talk about budgets at 10 at night, but whatever gets it done! Blasberg: Nowadays, fashion photographers have so many digital techs and retouchers on set, but this felt very basic. It was interesting to watch Steve and Doug behind the cameras because they feel very analog.
Grand: This was probably one of the most comfortable shoots I’ve had with Kate because it was very intimate. The studio was small, so there wasn’t much room behind the camera. No one could really stare at her, and she could just be herself. Blasberg: Was it exciting to think “video first” for a print magazine? Grand: It was somewhere my head was already going, and it’s something I’d really like to do again because it just makes sense to me. I think it’s how people are used to digesting images now. Fashion is getting better and better with it. Blasberg: Was this the first time that you had thought “video first”? Grand: It’s the first time I formally thought about it, yes. I’d thought about the two being friends before, but never… Blasberg: Getting married. Grand: Yes, we got hitched! I loved when you said that videos should be at least three minutes because, in this viral world, we typically try and edit everything down to an instant. But what was nice about this project was that you could have lingering moments where the camera just watched. If you look at Bowie videos from the ’70s, not much happens. If you turn off the sound, it’s really not very much at all, but of course it’s Bowie, so it’s full of style. Like “Starman.” Blasberg: Who else sticks out in your memory? Grand: I remember the performance artist Kembra Pfahler staggering through the studio with her feet taped to bowling balls. That doesn’t happen on most fashion shoots. We had so many great movers, too. Ashley Graham strutting her stuff in that PVC catsuit. I thought Fran Summers was otherworldly in Rick Owens. And Neneh Cherry was iconic; the whole studio was mesmerized. Blasberg: Oh, I forgot, my other favorite: David Beckham in blue eyeshadow. Grand: Yes, I remember on set turning to the rest of the team and asking, “Can you believe he’s gone for the eyeshadow?” Blasberg: But that’s the beauty—no pun intended!—of working with LOVE. Where else can the world’s most famous footballer play with makeup?
LOVE MATCH The biggest models in the industry participated in the project.
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IT TAKES TWO Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia
DESIGNERS OF THE YEAR
As the creatives behind both Monse and Oscar de la Renta, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia are among the busiest, most buzzed-about characters in the fashion world. Best of all? They’ve managed to remain best friends. At Monse HQ in Tribeca, they reveal why it all works. BY ASHLEY BAKER You launched Monse for Spring 2016, and later that year, you returned to Oscar de la Renta as creative directors. Are you happy with where things have landed? Laura Kim: Starting last fall, we really found what we want to be at Oscar. At Monse, we always knew what we wanted to be. [Laughs]
Fernando Garcia: It took this amount of time for both teams to understand the vision, and grow into their own respective roles in the companies. Now, we can hit the ground running, and the collections have reflected a sense of security, growth.… It all came to fruition this year. In our industry, there’s so much pressure to have a defined vision—for everything to be perfect—right out of the gate. Kim: Getting your team together takes a good year and a half. And when you sell your first collection, it takes about a year until you can really see the whole selling season and get good feedback. I really thought we could do it right away, because we’d been at Oscar before, but it really took a year and a half. When you saw those reports, which pieces were really resonating at retail? Garcia: For Monse, the knitwear. Kim: We didn’t really know how to design knits at first, but we got lucky! [Laughs] We have really good manufacturers, and that’s a huge part of the process. And how has the Oscar customer evolved? Garcia: We’re introducing new types of items into her closet, like suiting, denim, and evening tops. We’re
educating her further about how to expand her closet. Our client has been there since we returned, and now we’re focused on giving her things from the house that she hasn’t had before. Kim: It’s much softer—the clothes got lighter, too. We make sure that the fabric doesn’t wrinkle too easily. Women are traveling more now. You have your hands in a storied American fashion brand, as well as an exciting new one. What are your best insights into how people are shopping these days? Garcia: They want things that they don’t already own, which is how we began Monse. We didn’t think that the shirtdress was tapped into enough at the time, so we deconstructed shirts. It’s all about having the right price point for something interesting that you don’t already have in your closet—it could be Chanel, it could be Gap. Kim: We’re seeing that the special things are selling faster than the cheaper things. How do you divide your responsibilities—and your time—these days? Garcia: We meet at the beginning of the season and at the end of the season. [Laughs]
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NOW, WE CAN HIT THE GROUND RUNNING, AND THE COLLECTIONS HAVE REFLECTED A SENSE OF SECURITY, GROWTH.… IT ALL CAME TO FRUITION THIS YEAR.”—Fernando Garcia
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Kim: And we meet in the middle to argue a little bit. [Laughs] Garcia: No, we first look at the calendar for fabrics. And by “we,” I mean Laura. Then we start brainstorming about what worked well from the previous collections, and then we meet with our CEOs—Renee [Prince Fillip] at Monse, and Alex [Bolen] at Oscar—to get feedback from the buyers. Based on that, we start brainstorming with our team about what is new and exciting for them, and how we evolve the brand—making it more grown-up and new every time. Then we start draping and cutting up vintages and creating new ideas out of that. Fernando, what is Laura’s biggest strength? Garcia: Her ability to manage the team. It’s quite difficult. Kim: Not everyone is always happy, but I try! I’ve realized that you have to dance with creative people. Everyone is different, but I try to understand when they can’t function for a couple of days after they’ve had some criticism. Do you relate to that, as a creative yourself ? Kim: I really don’t. Garcia: When you went through the school that we went through…we’re both quite egoless most of the time.
Game—we’ll ask you some trivia questions about each other. First, if it’s a Saturday night, and you’re not working... Kim: He’s out partying. Garcia: Probably. And she’s probably texting me while I’m out, telling me that she’s home with a glass of champagne. Kim: Totally. I went out with Fernando and his friends on Saturday, and I came home and said, “What was that? I should have stayed home.” How do you deal with stress? Kim: He talks to his best friend. Garcia: She yells at me. Kim: It’s true! If you weren’t working in fashion... Kim: Fernando would be working in movies. Garcia: The reason I’m in fashion is because I was watching movies with my mom growing up. Laura would be a chef or a children’s book author. Laura, how did you get into cooking? Kim: When I was growing up, my mom made me do my homework while she was cooking, so I grew up watching her. I can pretty much make anything. Who do you cook for? Kim: Usually Fernando. [Laughs] He’s so easy with food— he eats anything. Honestly, with girlfriends, they don’t eat! Garcia: Her breakfasts are so good. Her blueberry pancakes, these interesting egg concoctions.… It’s never just sunny-side up. It’s very complicated.
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Laura, what is Fernando’s greatest strength? Kim: He has many, but he’s very easygoing, which helps, because I’m not. When I get upset, he smooths everything over and moves things forward. Garcia: She doesn’t show [stress] to the team, but she shows it to me. I’m happy to share the load. You’ve worked together for such a long time. What do you fight about? Garcia: Fewer things nowadays, now that we know what we want to get out of these two amazing jobs that we have. We may bicker about the direction the collection could go in, or staffing issues, but nothing big. Not even lunch orders? Kim: No. [Laughs] He eats whatever I order. Garcia: I’m easy with food, but not with hotels. I really love hotels! You created an incredible Oscar de la Renta dress for Regina King to wear at the Academy Awards. How did that come together? Garcia: We just love her. When I saw the film [If Beale Street Could Talk], I knew it would be an exciting year, and I wanted to be a part of that year with her. I started harassing [King’s stylists] Wayman [Bannerman] and Micah [McDonald] through Instagram—I slide into DMs left and right when I feel passionate about something. I was pretty sure I was late to the game, but I kept asking, and asking, and asking.… Whose DMs are you sliding into these days? Garcia: We’ll see come Met Gala! Kim: That’s how you met your boyfriend! Garcia: He slid into mine, I have to say. What was his pickup line? Garcia: “Were you walking through the West Village at 10:30 in the morning wearing a navy outfit?” My reply, after seeing his pictures and making sure he was cute, was, “Creepy, but yes.” What do you want to see happen with Monse and Oscar in the next year? Kim: We didn’t want Monse to grow too fast, because we have another job, and we don’t want an investor right now—we want to keep it small. But I want it to stay special. Eventually, we have to build it out to make it into more of a merchandised line. For Oscar, we finally got it to where we want it to be, but we are continually pushing it to be fresher. It’s an older brand, and it’s for older customers. It’s actually a real fight to push things forward. There are like 100 people there who have been working there for 40 years, and even if it’s a new cut, they’ll fit it like an old one. It’s a constant battle, but it’s moving in the right direction. What’s your relationship like with Alex Bolen? Garcia: We admire him. Kim: He’s more like a friend than a boss. Garcia: He treats us like family, and we fight like family. We go fearlessly toward a goal like family—something that can’t be said of a CEO who hasn’t known us for a long time. He lets us do what we feel passionately about, and he knows our core values. Let’s end with a brief version of The Newlywed
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INTO
THE WOODS MODEL OF THE YEAR
With her gapped teeth, bald head, and unapologetic attitude, Slick Woods is truly one of a kind. The Los Angeles native, who initially captivated Rihanna and then earned the affection of the entire fashion industry, explains how she’s just getting started.
RAY OF LIGHT Woods has caught the attention of Miu Miu, Marc Jacobs, and Fendi.
What were some of the highlights of the year? Wow! All the years have meshed together. It’s been four years [of modeling]! The biggest highlight of the year was having my baby, of course. Being able to walk on the [Fenty] runway pregnant, working on the Fenty campaigns.… [Makeup artist] Hector [Espinal] and I have been creative with our looks. I’m dropping a shoe line with The Kooples. I finished my film [Sam de Jong’s Goldie], which was a lot of work, but great. There’s a lot coming this spring. How has motherhood changed you? Having a baby has made me feel powerful and more secure. Any insecurity I’ve ever had has dissolved
completely. I had a baby! I made a human grow. How’s the baby sleeping? Amazing. He sleeps all night. You walked the Fenty show in September while very pregnant. Were you due that day? I went into labor the day before, but it was walking labor. My water didn’t break, so I didn’t know I was in labor. My son was due 10 days after the show. I thought I had a little leeway. Right after I walked off the runway, I went straight to the paramedics. Eighteen hours later, I had a beautiful baby boy, Saphir. That might be a fashion first! It might be a fashion first, and it was also my first.
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G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 3 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 2 ) ; T H E L I O N S ( 2 ) ; A L L O T H E R S C O U R T E SY
BY EDDIE ROCHE
G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 3 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 2 ) ; T H E L I O N S ( 2 ) ; A L L O T H E R S C O U R T E SY
Rihanna’s been one of your biggest champions. How did you first connect? Rihanna saw me on her Explore page on Instagram and cast me for her show. The first season, I couldn’t make it, but when I did the show, she came up to me and said, “Let me see the tattoo, bitch.” And then we became friends. What have you learned from her? I definitely feel more comfortable in my sexuality and my womanhood being around her. She brings the bad bitch out of me. We pull different looks and play dress up, which is something I never got to do. Who else have been your biggest supporters? Honestly, I’m going to be real with you—I don’t think anybody ever got me to where I am. Growing up, I never saw anybody who looked like me. I never saw anybody from the hood [who] made it out. If I want to look up to someone, I look up to a rapper or some s**t like that. That’s where I come from. When I think of fashion, I think of, God rest his soul, Karl Lagerfeld, and Judy Blame. Did you want to be a model when you were younger? I never wanted to be a model in my life. It’s a good stepping stone to do whatever the f**k I want to do. I don’t like doing things that I don’t like to do. Your film Goldie will be released in May. Does acting come naturally to you? This role was pretty easy, because [the character’s personality] is similar to mine. She was a little more submissive than I would be, which was hard. I don’t really like submissive behavior. Do you want to do more film work? I do. I’m going to be in another movie, which I can’t tell you about—we start filming later this year. Are there any fashion creatives that you’d like to work with? I’d love to work with Steven Meisel more; I love Tim Walker. I love male photographers because they capture my masculinity in the way that I want it to be captured, but I do love a Carin Backoff and I do love a Cass Bird. I’d also like to work with Nick Knight. His work is beautiful. What was it like working with photographer Tyler Mitchell? I love him. He’s lit. He’s young, he’s talented as f**k, he can capture anything, anywhere. He’s dope. He’s so underrated. He’s my friend, so I might be a little biased. He’s ahead of his time. Tell us more about your collaboration with The Kooples. They’re strap-on sneakers. It’s a Jordan 23 vibe going on, with no laces. There’s a marine biologist type of vibe. Are you hoping to do more collaborations? I’m also coming out with my own shoe line. Where do you hang out in L. A.? Melrose, Fairfax, Venice Beach. That’s my s**t. How did you get the name Slick? I started practicing my rolls, and when I’d roll the best reefs, they call me slick. The backwoods was slick. Do you feel like the fashion community has embraced you? I feel more like a part of the style community. Fashion is what everybody likes at the same time. Style is how you wear it. You grew up in L. A. and had some tough times growing up. What’s the city like for you now? It’s a little melancholy sometimes. Everybody’s trying to get a tan or grab brunch and cocktails. I feel it, but Venice Beach was different 20 years ago. It was gangbanger territory. I respect the vibes. I like to be bougie, but I’m a hood girl at heart.
TRUE ORIGINAL The L.A. native has appeared in campaigns for Moschino, Calvin Klein, and Fenty.
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BEST DIGITAL RETAILER: PRETTYLITTLETHING
As CEO and founder of PrettyLittleThing, Umar Kamani has created one of the fastest-growing retail brands in the industry. He explains how his priceconscious, influencer-driven approach has led to blockbuster success. BY ARIA DARCELLA What’s your professional background and how did you get involved in fashion? I came from a fashion family. My dad and grandfather were in the business from a young age—my father owns a fashion business called Boohoo. I went to university, worked there for a couple years, and then I started PrettyLittleThing as an accessories business. Then it just evolved. This is actually my first career move. Was there any pressure to start your own line? Definitely. Boohoo was a success story and when I started, I wasn’t. There was pressure to live up to expectations. But I think that pressure was used in a constructive way to drive me forward and to also look at new ways of evolving these businesses. When you started your business, what was your initial vision and launch strategy? I’ve never ever had a strategy. I react to the climate; I react to the customer. All we did was listen to the
customer and learn, and we kept tweaking until we built a beautiful business that we think is the solution to what the customer needs. Who were some of PrettyLittleThing’s earliest adopters? We started in England and used a lot of U.K. celebrities you may not be familiar with. We launched in the U.S. in 2016, and early on, we collaborated with Sofia Richie and Olivia Culpo. We also worked with the Kardashians from an early point. We had some great, high-profile influencers joining us from an early stage. What would you consider to be the first big success for the brand? There have been so many. Becoming a market leader in the U.K. was amazing. Before we launched over here, everyone thought I was crazy, because it’s a much bigger job than it was in the U.K. Our success here has been amazing for me. Integrating into the culture here was key to the success story.
How would you describe the shopping habits of millennials? Everyone is way more confident in online shopping now. A couple of years ago, when the business first started out, you had to build confidence with the customer. We’ve always been a celebrity-focused world; celebrities and influencers are such a huge part of inspiring how to dress and what to wear. In 2016, you did a collaboration with Kourtney Kardashian. What is she like to work with? Working with the Kardashians is always great. I find them very professional and easy to work with. They’re such a huge part of our target audience’s culture, and they’re such a big part of social media. Can you really get much bigger than the Kardashians when it comes to social media? It was amazing to position ourselves with them. You also collaborated with Ashley Graham on a collection for sizes 6 to 28. Why was she a great partner? Ashley was amazing, because everything she represents is everything we believe in as a brand. She’s so fun. She’s a big character with a fantastic personality. She shows plus-size girls how to be confident, how to be sexy. She’s one of the most beautiful women I’ve ever seen. I’m confident our collaborations with Ashley will be a long-term partnership. What kind of feedback did you get when that collection dropped? It was great. It actually brought in a lot of new customers. People who couldn’t buy from us before [due
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CO U RT E SY
BIG SUCCESS
THE BOSS Kamani has built his brand into a market leader—at lightning speed.
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I WANT TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING STAYS AUTHENTIC AND REAL, AND THAT CUSTOMERS REALLY BELIEVE IN WHAT WE DO.”
to limited sizes] now could buy from us. It was a new business to a lot of people. It was super important. Hailey Bieber is having a moment right now. What drew you to working with her? We have a good reputation, and we can work with a lot of amazing talent. She’s the girl of the moment, right? We were working with her before [she married] Justin Bieber, and when that all came about, it was just amazing. Hailey Bieber is very much how we started out as a business. Girly and pretty—that’s how we started the business before we started evolving. How are you approaching growth? How are you trying to scale your business? There are thousands of orders that come in hourly, and making sure that you can get all of them out is important. We’ve been working a lot on our new warehouse. We’re a business with strong systems and controls we can scale. We can ship to America in a quick time now. We’re ahead of the curve, and we’ve put things in place that will help the next spurt of growth. How many countries is PLT now found in? You can buy from PrettyLittleThing anywhere in the world, but we’ve set up the platform and made sure we’ve catered to the culture and different audiences, including the U.S., Australia, Ireland, Canada, France, and the U.A.E. Where is the company headquartered, and how many employees do you have now? The company headquarters are in Manchester, England, and in the headquarters, we have about 400 employees. Our warehouse, which is also in the U.K., has close to 4,000 employees. We just opened our U.S. showroom on Melrose Avenue, in Los Angeles, which will be starting with about 20 people. We have an office in London on the iconic Carnaby Street that has another 20 people. We’re looking at opening an office in France as well. What are your best-selling categories and products? Dresses. We’re very sexy, we’re very much a brand that’s known for being where you can buy your outfit for the weekend. Kylie [Jenner] wore an orange dress that was about $20 when we first launched in the U.S., and we sold quite a lot of that—it was a popular dress. We have 18,000 products on the site, so there’s a lot of amazing styles in there, and as the business grows, we sell more and more. What’s your approach to social media? As social media has developed, PrettyLittleThing has grown up. Influencers are huge for brands. I want to make sure everything stays authentic and real, and that customers really believe in what we do. We want
LEADING LADIES (Clockwise from left) Campaign stars Hailey Bieber and Kourtney Kardashian; collaborator Ashley Graham.
to have genuine influencer relationships—everything isn’t a business deal—and I strongly believe in personal relationships. We believe in building a family culture in the business. PLT is a lifestyle brand; it’s not just an online shop. Who are your most trusted sounding boards? I actually use social media. From day one, my key ingredient has always been Twitter. I go on Twitter every single day, a couple of times a day, and I always read what customers are saying. What’s good about Twitter is that it gives you a real-time opinion, so if something’s going on, you get to know about it quickly, and that’s always kept me on the pulse quickly. In the old days, if the website went down because there was too much load on the site, or there was a payment issue, or if people couldn’t get student discounts because their code wasn’t working, you see it all quickly on Twitter because people go to Twitter to vent. So I always use it to give me an up-to-date idea of what’s going on and if everything’s working on the website.
Who do you follow on Twitter? I watch influencers, but realistically I like to watch my friends and family, and the influencers I work with. What’s next for the brand in 2019? It’s going to be our biggest and best year—we’ll be working a lot with different cultures as well. We’re evolving as a brand, and continuing to be meaningful to the customer. We’re in discussions with lots of new talent. We’re developing our PLT podcast, and our official single, “#Pretty,” with India Love and Will.I.Am, was just released. I’m incredibly excited to be exploring more music opportunities in the near future. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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RED CARPET READY Christian Siriano’s designs as seen on (clockwise from left) Cardi B, Kelly Ripa, Kathy Bates, and Octavia Spencer.
VISION
OF LOVE FASHION VISIONARY
Christian Siriano is returning to Bravo’s Project Runway, the show that made him a household name. This time, he’s taking on Tim Gunn’s mentorship role, doling out lessons he learned by dressing the most famous women in the world. We caught up with the candid designer about the new show and how he’s leading the charge in a changing fashion landscape.
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GUTTER CREDITS TK
BY EDDIE ROCHE
You were one of the first designers to put curvy models on the runway. What inspired that decision? It was only a few years ago, right after I started working with Lane Bryant. I met Ashley Graham for the first time, before she was “Ashley Graham,” and I also met Candice [Huffine]. I didn’t know that there were [plus-size] models available to work with—and I don’t think many others did, either. After meeting these amazing women, it didn’t make sense to go back to my normal casting. I’d always get comments from women who said they couldn’t envision themselves in certain looks they saw on the runway.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM JESS LAIRD
The first time you put these models on the runway, the audience went wild with cheers. I really didn’t think it was going to have the impact it had. I thought it was going to look fabulous and maybe get us some new customers. I never thought it would make people feel so good. That was the best part, and that’s a big part of why I keep doing it. It’s a win/win. All [designers] need to collectively do it, and then it won’t become such a topic. Was Ashley Graham in that first show? No. She didn’t walk for me until our show in February of last year. I actually never asked her because I didn’t think she’d do it. I texted her and I was like, “Would you
ever do this?” and she was like, “Sure, I’ll be there!” I thought she’d be too busy. You’ve become the go-to designer for actresses of all ages. Who were some of the first celebs that supported you? Early on in my career, we had a huge celebrity following. I was asked to dress Whoopi Goldberg when she hosted the Tony Awards. They wanted me to design all her clothes. What young designer would say no? And then I was getting requests to dress Oprah Winfrey. You can’t say no to Oprah. It just kept going from there—Rihanna, Lady Gaga... It was such a range, from Sally Field for the Tonys to Laurie Metcalf when she was up for an Oscar. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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people, so it’s so wild to see people being like, “Oh, my God, I’ve never seen a dress like that on the red carpet before!” Which I guess is a thing. Even if it upsets some people. That’s better, though! That’s what was so great. The outpouring of support was so amazing that it really pushed aside the negative. How do you have so much energy? I’m getting tired. [Laughs] You know why? It’s because I actually still really get inspired. I make really quick decisive decisions, which is why I think red carpets are always successful [for the brand]. When Ariana [Grande] was getting Billboard’s Woman of the Year award, her stylist, Law Roach, asked me to make a brand-new dress that I posted on Instagram. We made it in five hours, and she wore it! I’m so quick to answer—that’s the only reason things work out here.
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GUTTER CREDITS TK
RUNWAY SUCCE SS Above: Looks from Siriano’s Fall ’19 collection. Right: Billy Porter at the 2019 Oscars.
FIRSTVIEW (4); GETTY IMAGES (1)
With all the women you’ve dressed, what was one of your favorite moments? Dressing Kathy Bates for the Emmys. When I showed up at her house, she already knew a lot about me. The reason she wanted me to dress her was because I was dressing these other women, and she’s not a tiny sample size. The same thing happened with Michelle Obama; she chose to wear me at the Democratic National Convention because I was dressing all these other women of size and color. I’ve been celebrating all these different types of people for a long time. Kathy Bates told me that not many [designers] wanted to dress her, and I said, “But you’re Kathy Bates!” When Bravo’s Project Runway came calling again, was taking on the Tim Gunn role a no-brainer? I didn’t even answer until the last minute because of the time commitment. It’s hard—I have around 40 employees, and the mentor role on the show is an all-day job. The judges just show up and judge, but I needed to be there all the time. But it was quite rewarding, because the designers needed somebody like me to help them—I’m really in the business. Tim Gunn was amazing and iconic and forever will be, but he wasn’t a working designer. If they were to say, “This is inspired by Beyoncé,” I would say, “Well, I just dressed Beyoncé, and she would not wear that.” Do you like the business side of fashion? No. Disgusting! It’s actually really horrible. To be honest, that’s why I just want to give up on some days, because it’s so hard. The money, the employees, the salaries— just a few minutes ago, I was upstairs, signing up for new health insurance for everyone. During awards season, we spend probably $100,000 on shipping. It’s disgusting! It’s wild! Back and forth and back and forth to L.A. for a box is like $1,000 each time. Your sales are strong internationally. Why do you think that is? The world of eveningwear and luxury is more of a European or Middle Eastern thing. The event gown business here isn’t what it used to be. Do you ever sit back and take it all in? No. I’m constantly moving, sadly. But some days I think it’s pretty cool, like when Billy Porter wore our look at the Oscars. That was such a moment that I think will change people’s lives forever. I wish that I could just sit back and think about that, but it’s hard, because the next day I had to come in to the office and deal with another issue! How did that dialogue with Billy begin? He came to my show and literally the day after he was like, “Oh, my God, I loved the show so much. I’m hosting the Oscars red carpet for ABC. Would you make me a gown?” I was like, “Sure.” We tried on one shape, and I threw a jacket on it. It was so easy. Sometimes that’s when it is the best, though. I think people forget that the Oscars red carpet is seen by everyone in the world, not just America. [Billy’s dress] was not something people were used to seeing. I live in New York and I hang out with a lot of gay and trans
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DIVE RIGHT IN LAUNCH OF THE YEAR
Supermodel-turned-entrepreneur Candice Swanepoel found herself with an instant hit on her hands when she launched her luxurious, eco-friendly swim line, Tropic of C. With bikinis selling faster than she can make them, the budding mogul has had to buckle down and learn on the fly to keep up with the demands of her growing business.
THE ENTREPRENEUR Model, designer, and businesswoman Candice Swanepoel
What inspired you to launch Tropic of C? It was a childhood dream of mine. When I was 7, I used to take my mom’s leftover fabric—she was an aerobics teacher—and make my own little bikinis. Growing up in the sun in South Africa, I always loved it. And when I got into modeling, I became kind of “the swimsuit girl,” and all through those years I would pay close attention to the fit and color and how they made me feel. That’s how I started brainstorming Tropic of C. The hardest thing for me was just to take the initiative to start it and feel confident that I could do it. What finally pushed you over the edge? I have a great South African manager who helped me, because one of the hardest parts is just figuring out where to start. People think it’s easy to start a business, but it’s really not. It’s all this legal stuff, branding…and literally every name is taken, even my own! I took a million meetings and some never went anywhere, but I still learned something from every one of them. It was during my pregnancy that I was actually able to focus on making it happen. Daniela [Manfredi, Swanepoel’s business partner and Tropic of C’s assistant designer] flew to Brazil to meet me, and we got along straight away and started talking about what the brand could look like. I can’t believe it’s been almost a year. That seems really fast. Yeah, I mean, we’re pretty on it. Daniela comes from a swim background, so she kind of knew what parts we needed to put together. She’s the one who goes to the factories and brings back fabrics for me to see, and we put it all together. Then you have the whole back end of the websites and the photo shoots, and that’s the part I really love—organizing the shoots and the look of the brand online and on Instagram.
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S W A N E P O E L P O R T R A I T S ( L E F T ) ; A L E X W A LT I ; A L L O T H E R S : E D U A R D O B R AV I N
BY CHARLES MANNING
S W A N E P O E L P O R T R A I T S ( L E F T ) ; A L E X W A LT I ; A L L O T H E R S : E D U A R D O B R AV I N
And you’re based in New York now, correct? I was trying to maintain a beach life in Miami, but I need to be in the office regularly, so I’m back in New York for a while. Sometimes I hate New York, but I always end up missing it and coming back. What do you think sets Tropic of C apart from other swim brands? I put a lot of energy into working on the shapes and making sure every suit is very specific and well-done. I take pride in the fabrics. They’re not just worn twice and look terrible, but they are pieces you can keep season after season. I have a weird thing with some of my clothes; they’ve been with me through important parts of my life and it’s almost like they have a soul. I’m attached to them. They bring me back to special times in my life and I hang on to them, as long as they are good quality. I feel like that is what Tropic of C is—it’s a brand you can rely on for good fit and good quality. Most of the styles look quite simple, but the reaction from people when they put them on is quite different. What are some of your most popular styles? There’s one called “Vibe,” which is a crop top with a higher-waisted bottom, that sells all the time. We have the classic string, which I love to wear every day. I love to use earthy colors, and I like to make color stories, so everything looks beautiful together. How much do you let the numbers guide your decision making? I have to pay attention to the numbers, but we have a business partner who has helped us get started because we’ve grown almost too quickly. At times it’s been a little bit overwhelming, but that’s a great problem to have. At times, we’ve underestimated the orders and run out of fabric, so we plan in advance and order larger quantities. Your fabrics are quite special—lots of recycled ecofabrics—so quantities must be somewhat limited to begin with. Exactly. There has been a definite learning curve for me, but that’s good. I really would like for the brand to grow and maybe one day do clothing as well. We’ll see! Given the demands of your modeling career, how involved are you with Tropic of C on a daily basis? It’s every day. Thank God for Internet programs. We have all the online Dropboxes, because I like to sign off on everything. The team is learning what I like and what my aesthetic is, but there’s a lot of back and forth. And whenever I have time off I’m here [at the studio]; we’re busy designing the next collection. And where are you selling? We’re direct-to-consumer, but we’re also on Goop and Moda Operandi to raise brand awareness. We’ve also started doing pop-ups, so people can be closer to the brand. We offer things like free returns, so people can try on the suits and not be afraid that they might not work. What’s the busiest time of year for the brand? With swim, there’s an annual schedule. That’s one of the parts that freaks me out the most. I mean, I could just say whatever and sell when I want, but there are times when people are thinking about vacation and certain times that sell better, like around spring break and before certain holidays. Have you ever won anything before? Maybe I won like “Most Photogenic” when I was a kid or something, but I’ve never won anything that mattered. How does it feel to be celebrated in this way? It’s been really satisfying for me to see people enjoying
TROPIC OF C The C one-piece in Mama Africa, $150
TROPIC OF C Coco top in Starry Night, $90
TROPIC OF C Curve bottom in Starry Night, $80
TROPIC OF C The C bralette in Sandstone, $80
TROPIC OF C Curve bottom in Sandstone, $80
the brand so much. As models, our work is based on how we look, and it’s great to be celebrated for that, but all of us are so much more than that. I’m really happy to be recognized for something other than what I look like. And this brand is like my other baby. I’m so proud of it. And there’s so much going on in my daily life. I’ve fought so hard for my career from a really young age, had my babies, and I started this business in the middle of it all. It’s been a crazy couple of years, but the success has made it worth all the struggle.
IN IT TO SWIM IT Swanepoel hits the beach in some of her latest designs. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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BEST
TRESSED HAIR ARTIST OF THE YEAR
As Lady Gaga’s celebrated hairstylist for the past decade, Frederic “Freddie” Aspiras has created some of the most memorable looks in pop culture history. But little is known about the man behind the coifs. THE DAILY sat down with the lovable Angeleno at Soho House West Hollywood for an intimate chat. BY EDDIE ROCHE
HEADS ABOVE THE REST Hair mastermind Freddie Aspiras.
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I’M QUIET ABOUT MY WORK, BUT I ALSO KNOW I’M IN A PLACE WHERE I REALLY HAVE SOMETHING TO GIVE BACK. AND I KNOW THIS IS THE TIME TO DO IT.”
admired his work, and how I saw a lot of myself in him. He spent 15 minutes talking to me about my career goals and my family. He was open about everything and very encouraging. How did your family react when you came out? [Laughs] They basically all knew. I even had girlfriends but my sister was like, “Come on!” I used to spend hours in her room playing dress-up. I’d watch her do her makeup. When I finally told her, she said she had always known, and I didn’t have to wait so long to tell her. Like every young kid who hasn’t come out of the closet, there’s frustration, and I wish I could go back and have done it earlier. It’s what kept me
from pursuing my passion. I hope that one day I can do [something] for all the young kids who look up to me. I meet so many young adults who have trouble expressing themselves to their family and friends or the world because of who they are. You seem very sensitive. I am. I never really talk about this stuff. I’m quiet about my work, but I also know I’m in a place where I really have something to give back. And I know this is the time to do it. How did you wind up in Los Angeles? I had done a lot of commercial work in San Francisco, and I had a friend who lived in L.A. and worked in film. I
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A S P I R A S : CO U RT E SY J O E Y JA M E S ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 8 ) ; A L L OT H E R S CO U RT E SY
Your have hair in your roots! My mother was a hairdresser. She came to America from Vietnam in the mid-’70s, and I grew up in hair salons my whole life. She owned her own business in San Francisco and was a good role model. She’s very independent and strong, with a great business mind. As a kid, I actually didn’t want to do hair—I grew up wanting to do theater. I was a child actor in local plays. How did you end up doing hair? I’d go to my mom’s salon after school, and eventually, I started washing hair and setting rollers. I always played around with my sister’s hair, but I was ashamed to do it, because growing up, I was a closeted gay in a really hard neighborhood where you had to be masculine. I had a beard girlfriend. I was trying to hide the fact that I was gay to my family, but my mother didn’t care, because she knew that I had this talent to do hair. How did you launch your career? When I was about 20, I started doing photo shoots. I didn’t really know about opportunities outside of salons until I met Kevyn Aucoin at a book signing at Rizzoli in San Francisco. It was such an eye-opener. We spoke, and he gave me precise tips and encouragement. I still have his signed book. Soon after, he passed away. What did you and Kevyn talk about? I was super nervous. There are a lot of parallels in our lives. I was shivering and told him how much I
A S P I R A S : CO U RT E SY J O E Y JA M E S ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 8 ) ; A L L OT H E R S CO U RT E SY
came here in 2003 with about $1,000 to take a risk and just do it. I was really afraid of taking the leap. I didn’t know anyone here, and I had to go back to working retail because I was basically homeless. I lived in a hotel in Downtown L.A. because I was too ashamed to go back home. I didn’t want to look like I had failed. Nothing happened for three months. Eventually, I started meeting photographers and other hairstylists. It took about four or five years before I started getting paid gigs. I had no option but to be here. I tell my younger fans or people starting out that you have to give it all you’ve got and know that even if you fail, you keep trying. Those experiences of failure taught me a lot about what I know today and made me stronger. What year did you see things start to really pick up? It was 2007, which was the year that my father died. I have a hard time telling this story because I don’t want people to feel sorry for me. My oldest friends who know me, the ones I’ve known for 20 years, they know where I came from and they want me to talk about my dad. He passed away, and I just knew that life is short and I have to [pursue my dreams] for him. I went through a bad depression, and I had to take control of my life. One day I was freelancing, and got a phone call: “Do you want to work with Paris Hilton?” Everyone has their ideas about Paris, but she turned out to be a gift from heaven. She literally changed everything. She was very generous. We worked together for more than three years and traveled the world together. As much as she took care of me, I took care of her. We had a great friendship that changed my life dramatically. I went from living at my friend’s house to owning my own apartment and car. She believed in me and thought I had gifts. She has a big heart. How did you start working with Lady Gaga? I was at home after just coming back from Japan on a huge tour with Paris, promoting her 12th fragrance. We had been traveling for months and months. My agent [Kent Belden] called and asked if I wanted to do a tour with Lady Gaga. I was like, “Who’s Lady Gaga?” She had literally just done the VMAs; “Bad Romance” hadn’t come out yet. She needed someone to do wigs and extensions. There weren’t a lot of hairdressers who did that. Wig placement on a white girl? It was unheard of. I had a background in wigs and thought, “Why not?” Paris and I were having a work break. I saw [Gaga] on TV and she reminded me of Bowie. She was right up my alley. I get the creativity and the art. I showed up, popped a wig on her, and the rest is history. That was a decade ago. I was supposed to be doing a small theater tour for two months, but after “Bad Romance,” Gaga became a huge phenomenon—five tours, endless concerts, and now A Star Is Born. It’s an amazing journey. I can’t believe 10 years have passed. What’s your working relationship like? I’ve never met anyone like her who knows precisely how she wants her vision to be. She also surrounds herself with people she trusts who are talented at what they do. It wasn’t easy in the beginning—I had to really prove myself. I was spending hours and hours, day after day, making wigs and wigs and wigs. I did a lot of research. I love watching classic movies, which really helped. Gaga is such an encyclopedia of history in fashion, art, and music. The Haus of Gaga meetings are like board meetings—she’s at the head of the table, explaining her story, and then we go and do our homework.
It’s interesting that you now work only with Gaga. At the beginning I thought I’d be able to work with others, but there really was no time. Why work with anyone else when she really does everything? We’ve done almost every look you can think of on one person, which is her enigma. She literally can be and look like anybody. What look are you most proud of in the past 10 years? That is very hard to answer. We’ve put so much thought into what we create. I think the best way to answer that question is, what makes me love something is the way it makes the person feel. It’s always been like that, even with Paris and the other people I’ve worked with. As for creations, the super-out-there creation when we did white dreads and seashells on Gaga’s hair. It was just a day in the park for us. She was walking out of a hotel in London— sometimes, those photos are better than shoots we’ve done! Why has your relationship had such longevity? Ask her that! [Laughs] It sounds cheesy, but I think she just believes in me. Even if she isn’t sure about something, she still believes I have passion and vision. She trusts me. I’m honestly one lucky guy, because not everybody gets that from somebody who is seen by millions and millions of people around the world. All of us in her camp have been together for a long time. We have a bond, and we all share the same drive and passion. Even when we aren’t working, we text and call one another to check in. What are your ambitions these days? I really want to be an inspiration to others. A lot of young adults today have a lack of ambition to keep going. What really made me want to speak up about who I am and what I do is my nephew, who is an adult. One day I looked at my Instagram, and he wrote this heartfelt post about how I inspired him. I never knew that before. My nephew is a really successful advertising guy in New York City, and he encouraged me to speak up about how we grew up in housing projects.… After he wrote that, I knew it was the time to speak up. It sounds like you’ve received a lot of love from your family. This is the last time I’m going to cry. Couldn’t we have done this interview at Starbucks? These are happy tears! If I brought you home to San Francisco to meet my mom…she’s an amazing character. I wish I could be like her. She’s so charismatic. It’s no wonder people loved her so much. She retired at 70. She couldn’t stop working. I think that’s where I get it. I’ll just keep working until I can’t anymore. She watches me every day with such pride. She knew this was what I was meant to do.
GAGA’S BEST MOMENTS From flowing wigs to polished updos, Lady Gaga’s unforgettable hair was created by Freddie Aspiras.
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GIRL’S BEST FRIEND The Move Addiction collection, co-designed by Messika and Gigi Hadid, features a variety of diamond pieces, including necklaces, earrings, and bracelets.
NOUVEAU
CHIC JEWELRY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Valérie Messika was raised on diamonds—her father, André, was a diamond trader who started his career in 1972. Valérie inherited not only his love for precious stones but also his entrepreneurial streak. She launched her fine jewelry line in 2006, and has since built a loyal following of both fans and celebrities. THE DAILY caught up with her to find out what she learned from her father, her time at the house of Chanel, and the backstory behind her collaboration with Gigi Hadid. BY ARIA DARCELLA
What was it like growing up around precious jewels? When you’re young, you don’t understand that diamonds are exceptional. I have small girls, and they’re used to seeing diamonds. I understood quite early on that diamonds would be a connection with my father, because he is really passionate about them. He used to come home and we would play with them together. We have a playful relationship through the stones. Were you expected to follow in his footsteps? I am his first-born child, so I grew up with a little pressure on my shoulders. My younger brother is handicapped, so I knew that he would never join my dad’s business. I would be the one to carry it on. With all of the respect I have for what he’s done and what he’s built, I thought, “Why not try?” When did you begin formally working with your father? In 2000. My father said, “Give me one year of your life to come inside my business.” He was only about trading diamonds—not about making jewelry at all. I used to travel with him. We would go to India, Israel, Belgium, and South Africa. I learned all about the buying side—I followed him to every meeting. After two years, he asked, “Are you okay with this business?” It was wonderful, but I wanted to evolve. I could smell something in the air—women can buy jewelry like they buy perfume or a bag, which can cost quite a lot of money. Why not make jewelry in the same price range, but branded exclusively with diamonds, a cool attitude, and something feminine? Why not just launch a brand? He said, “Okay, I’m your partner. I’ll give you all the diamonds you want.” How did that shape your design ethos? I wanted to have a connection between the diamond and my skin. The DNA of my brand is to make the gold disappear and to make the diamond appear like a tattoo on the skin.
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G E T T Y I M AG E S ( 4 ) ; A L L OT H E R S CO U RT E SY
STAR POWER (Clockwise from left) Valérie Messika with her dad, André Messika; Natalia Vodianova; Gigi Hadid; and Irina Shayk.
You worked at Chanel. What did you learn there? So much! I learned that to be a brand you have to have strong value, and not to become a copy. When I was at the house, the department of jewelry and watches was brand-new. They used to speak about Mademoiselle Coco Chanel like she was there. I understood that if one day I was to create my own brand, I would have to respect my history, my roots, and the story I wanted to tell—and to never, ever forget why I started. Now, 15 years later, I’m always reminded of what my goal was when I launched. That’s why I decided to do only diamonds— because that’s my expertise, my origin, my roots. Did you ever work with Karl Lagerfeld? No. I used to work with Jacques Helleu. He is now dead, but he designed the Chanel J12 watch. Also, with Lorenz Bäumer, who used to be the designer of the high jewelry of Chanel. What was one of your earliest career milestones? [Opening] my store on Rue Saint-Honoré five years ago. It was a big step for the brand to have a store in a shopping area that mixes lower jewelry and higher jewelry on a fashion street. It embodied my message of thinking about diamond jewelry as a fashionable version of the diamond. Your atelier is beautiful. What kind of things are you drawn to aesthetically in your everyday life? Light is very important. There are a lot of windows, even on the rooftop. Having light and [the ability to] see the sky is very important. I don’t know if it’s the reflection like a diamond or something, but my eyes can’t ever be blocked by something. In terms of style, I love geometry. I also love things that you don’t expect—contemporary and modern decorations. I love collecting art, as well. What’s it like to see your pieces on the red carpet? The first famous person who wore my jewelry was Beyoncé. The first time I saw her, I was absolutely shocked. She’s really strong and feminine and contemporary—she’s all the things I love to have in my imagination when I create jewelry for women. For me, it’s not only [about being] worn by Scarlett Johansson and Kristen Stewart—it’s the way that they mix the jewelry with an amazing dress, hair, and makeup.
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[AT CHANEL] I LEARNED THAT TO BE A BRAND YOU HAVE TO HAVE STRONG VALUE, AND NOT TO BECOME A COPY.”
Who would you love to see wearing your jewelry? Kate Moss. Her face is strong, and she’s very feminine. How did you meet Gigi Hadid? To celebrate my 10th anniversary, I had the idea of collaborating with a woman who can co-design with me. I’m inspired by fashion, and of course Gigi Hadid was at the top of my list. At the time, I never imagined that she would accept it. I’m not small, but I’m not as big as some brands. I was lucky to meet her in Paris during Fashion Week. We fell in love with each other! What do you love about her? Even though she’s young, she knows exactly what she wants. Her vision for the jewelry is exactly the philosophy of Messika—it’s cool. You can wear diamonds with jeans, leggings, whatever. This is what Gigi loved about the brand. There is a new generation of young women who choose Messika diamond pieces as their first fine jewelry purchases. Gigi really embodies
my success with that younger generation as the face of the brand. What’s your favorite idea that she has brought to the table? The safety pin. She came up with a punk version of the Move earrings, called the Move Addiction. It’s the first collection we designed together, starting from the earrings, and it looks like a safety pin is in your ear. What do you have coming up in 2019? I’m working on my new collection. It’s going to be shown just after the FLAs. I’m going to Switzerland to present during Baselworld, alongside Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, and Bulgari. I’m also showing a big high-end jewelry collection. What’s the theme? The theme is about Arizona. That’s why it’s funny. I worked with new materials, like wood. It’s quite new, and it’s really fun. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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WELL
SUITED STYLE CURATOR
Menswear maverick Ilaria Urbinati is known and loved for helping Hollywood’s leading men achieve new heights of style. She’s also become a sought-after influencer in her own right, with a slew of collaborations under her belt—and more on the horizon. BY ASHLEY BAKER
SHE’S ALL THAT Ilaria Urbinati is known for her polished but unfussy approach to fashion.
everybody. He’s really educated, and it shows in his style. You also styled Bradley Cooper this awards season. Is this the first time you’ve dressed two nominees in the same category? Yes. Because he was the director [of A Star is Born], it was about being simple, classic, effortless, and timeless. Somehow, during all the madness of Oscar dressing, you managed to do a partnership with Walmart. How did that come about? Walmart is one of the sponsors the Oscars, so they liked the idea of taking stylists of big movie stars and having them dress the behind-the-camera people. I dressed a production assistant in Walmart clothes and accessories, head-to-toe, and we gave her the full star treatment to create an outfit that she could wear to work. Was it wild to see yourself in a Walmart commercial? It was wild to see myself during the Oscars. That was weird. Usually, I get 30,000 text about my clients, and this year, everyone was like, “Walmart!” The concept is so perfect and timely.
We loved your Eddie Bauer collection. Me, too! I did two seasons, and then they got a new CEO. It did so well, and all my clients still wear those clothes and ask me for more pieces, but I can’t get my hands on anything. I would love to do it again. That was one of my favorite collabs I ever did, for sure. And then I did a line of suiting with Strong Suit that came out last year. It was everywhere—it seemed like people were really excited about it, and I think that goes to show how far menswear has come. It was a pretty adventurous look, but the price point was so good. You’ve always taken a democratic approach to style. I’m not a snobby person at all. I’ve worked on all sides of the fashion business. I worked in retail, I’ve owned a store, I sold clothes for my aunt [designer Laura Urbinati], I’ve done wardrobe for TV shows.… I’ve been in everyone’s shoes, and I have empathy for what everybody does, and the work that goes into it. There’s a generation of stylists now—me, Karla Welch, Samantha McMillen, Elizabeth Stewart—who are kind of turning
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G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 5 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 1 ) ; A L L O T H E R S C O U R T E SY
You have just styled Rami Malek, Bradley Cooper, Chris Evans, and others for the Oscars. Were you anticipating a crazy awards season? Honestly, every awards season is crazy. We’ve actually had crazier ones in terms of volume—one season, we dressed 17 [clients] for the Oscars. But we’ve never dressed this many nominees. I don’t think that at this time last year, I could have anticipated that Rami [Malek] was going to win the Oscar—he’s one of my super good friends! It’s crazy! We remember meeting him at a press preview for your Eddie Bauer line… Yes! He even came to my Strong Suit launch in L.A. He’s so great. We met during the press tour for Season 2 of Mr. Robot, and we got along right away. I meet a lot of my friends through work; a lot of my clients are like family. We have a really good bond. What was Rami’s style like when you first started? He always had good style on his own, for sure. When we first met, it was a little bit busier, and I helped streamline it. When we first started working together, we were doing more out-there things, like color and Hawaiian prints. At the time, he was up-and-coming, and it got him a lot of attention. Guys weren’t as fashion-forward as they are now. Now that every guy in the world is peacocking—it’s become a stylist crutch to put a guy in a colorful suit—Rami’s been smart about taking it back down. This season, there was hardly any color. We did almost all black and white—everything was really sharp and elegant. I always joke that he almost knows more [about fashion] than I do now. He knows all the creative directors at the brands, and he has relationships with
GOOD GENTS (Clockwise from left) John Krasinski, Rami Malek, Chris Evans, James Marsden, Bradley Cooper, and Armie Hammer in Urbinati-styled looks.
“ G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 5 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 1 ) ; A L L O T H E R S C O U R T E SY
EVERYTHING IS EFFORTLESS AND CHILL WITH ME.… I DRESS MEN—I CAN COME IN AND BE A LITTLE DECISIVE AND BOSSY, AND THEY DON’T TAKE OFFENSE!”
that old idea of the fashion snob on its head a little bit. You’re incredibly supportive of one another. We’re always posting about one another’s work. We have a giant text thread, and we’ll ask, “Does anyone have an assistant last minute? Does anyone have a contact at this brand?” It’s a support group! It’s coming from a really genuine place. Everything is effortless and chill with me. But you’re not afraid to voice opinions about fashion. I dress men—I can come in and be a little decisive and bossy, and they don’t take offense! Robin Givhan just wrote a great piece about you for The Washington Post. She quoted a favorite saying of yours—“looks matter if it matters how you look.” [Laughs] That’s a line from the movie Bugsy, and I use it all the time when I’m in a fitting with a guy who will be rolling around on the floor, saying, “Please, make it stop!” Meanwhile, a girl would say, “Please, may I try on 30 more things?” That’s the biggest difference between working with guys and girls. With women, I’m trying
to convince them to calm down; with guys, I’m trying to convince them of why [fashion] matters. But men’s styling has come such a long way. Guys understand now, more than ever, that fashion does matter, and it can be really fun. They get into it, and they start to see that it doesn’t have to be serious or scary or obnoxious. You have a lot of custom suits made for your clients. When I have enough time—like during awards season—I make everything custom [for my clients] with the brand. I’m really hands-on—I pretty much tell them every detail that I want. They’ll send books and books of fabric swatches, unless I want a specific shade of blue, and then I’ll get, like, four options. Then you have to take the client’s measurements, and their bodies change all the time, so you have to do them anew every time. Then they sketch it, you approve it, they make it.… It’s a lot of steps! How much time does that take? My go-to brands, like Isaia, Brioni, and Ferragamo, can turn something around in two weeks. If it’s an Oscar look for a big client, a brand can make it happen
in four days, but usually, it’s more like eight weeks. How many people do you have on your team now? I have four full-timers, and we have a few others who work for us when we need extra help. It takes a lot, because we have a thousand things going on. How many clients do you have? About 50. Because we have such a big roster, we’ll have at least seven people on press tours at all times. Who’s keeping you really busy at the moment? Chris Evans is doing Avengers press; we took on Christopher Abbott, and he’ll have all the press for Catch-22; Ben Affleck and Garrett Hedlund will do Triple Frontier; Ryan Reynolds will have Detective Pikachu press…. Let me look at my list! [Laughs] David Tennant, Adam Scott…Donald Glover will have The Lion King this summer, and that will be huge. Nikolaj Coster-Waldau is doing Game of Thrones, and The Rock has a few movies, too. It’s a lot! [Laughs] Somehow, you manage to make time for Muay Thai! Every day but Sunday. It keeps me sane! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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CHALLENGE ACCEPTED (Clockwise from left) Clips from Barber’s videos with Tom Ford; Instagram parodies of Cardi B, Kendall Jenner, and Demi Lovato.
RELIEF The rise of Celeste Barber has given the fashion world the comedienne it so richly deserves. With more than 5 million followers on Insta, the adoration of Tom Ford, and newly minted cover-girl status, she is worthy of our obsession. Before Barber hosts THE DAILY’s Fashion Los Angeles Awards, the Australian sensation rang us up to dish. BY EDDIE ROCHE How did you come up with the concept for your IG series, #celestechallengeaccepted? I thought it would be funny to see what it looked like for a normal person to do fancy-people things. Being a comedian first and foremost, [the goal] was to make people laugh. My sister and I used to send photos to each other being like, “That’s not what a woman looks like getting out of a pool. This is what a woman looks like getting out of a pool!” When did you start to notice it was really taking off ? It grew pretty quickly. After doing it for a few months, I [parodied] a post of Kim Kardashian half-naked on a dirt pile—which is a Wednesday for her—and then The Daily Mail got a hold of it and it went gangbusters.
How have the models you’ve parodied reacted? They’re the best! They have a great sense of humor, because I’m not being mean, and I only post photos that they have posted [on their own accounts]. I’m poking fun at the whole idea of that culture, not the individual. Do you pay attention to their likes? Sometimes. It’s nice to see they’re into it. I [parodied] Martha Hunt yesterday and she sent me a message saying she loved me and thanking me. She was honored. If the person that I parody likes it, then I’m fine. Who do you have the most fun with? A Kardashian? It used to be the Kardashians, but they don’t really do fun stuff anymore. Emily Ratajkowski is always fun. It’s clothing optional for her. As it should be! She’s incredible. Izabel Goulart and Miranda Kerr are fun ones, too, and the Victoria’s Secret ladies are always a treat. How long does it take to create a post? It depends. Sometimes, five minutes. Other times, I have to get a lot together. Doing it is fun, but the editing is boring and time-consuming. Where does your fearlessness come from? I honestly don’t think I look that bad. I’ve always been a strong believer in the idea that how we look makes up for a very small part of who we are. I’ve never gotten anywhere on how I look. I’ve always been that personality-gets-you-places type of person. The intention is to make people laugh. It doesn’t interest me to make people feel better or worse about how they look. Have you always been a fashion girl? I really like fashion. I know some people don’t believe that, but that’s okay. It seems like Rihanna is the only person in the world who gets it. I was just on the cover of InStyle in Australia. I’ve always got time for fashion!
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GUTTER CREDITS TK
COMIC
You came to our attention through the videos you made with Tom Ford. How did you two connect? Mr. Ford reached out to me via e-mail and I s**t my pants. He was like, “I love you! I’m obsessed with you!” I was like, “Sorry? Pardon?” He said he wanted to work with me, so I canceled everything and was on my way. He thinks I’m a genius, so I’m getting a tattoo on my ass that says, “Tom Ford thinks I’m a genius.” What was it like to make videos together? It was his idea for us to make out, but I had complete creative control. It was one of the greatest creative experience to date for me. He said, “What do you want me to do?” and I said, “Take off your shirt!” When you went to his show, where did you sit? Front row, with Cardi B and Russell Westbrook. Everyone was looking at me like, “Who the f**k is that?” What’s the story with your new book? It’s a bit memoir-y, which is a little weird because I’m 36. It’s also an advice manual and a behind-the-scenes look at the Instagram and celebrity world that I’ve encountered. I’m gonna be Lady Gaga, but annoying—I’m going to be everywhere promoting this book. What was it like writing it? I was not disciplined at all. I thought I was going to have to go to a deserted island and channel all my feelings. But it turned out I enjoy chaos! We went to Bali with the family and I wrote there. I scared myself into it. I finished a lot of it in six weeks, but there was no real discipline. I’m not known for my discipline! How much time have you spent in L. A.? A lot. I did a six-week tour in the States last year—46 shows in five weeks or something ridiculous like that. You guys are very supportive and positive. The general vibe is that I’m the bloody second coming of Beyoncé. I saw a little bit of Middle America, and that was interesting. There were a few places that I’m too scared to talk about in case people from those places read this and then shoot me. Hot Husband is a regular presence on your IG. Where did you two meet? At a pub in Sydney, where I was working. He walked in and I went, “Yup! Thanks! Hello!” Which comedians have influenced you? Tina Fey is queen of all things. I also love Amy Poehler and Maya Rudolph.… I’d love to work with them. I’d be done. I’d retire. [Pause] Okay, I wouldn’t retire.
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READ IT AND WEEP Barber’s hilarious book will be released in the U.S. in May.
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BACKSTAGEReport / Shows by Maybelline New York
A L L I M AG E S CO U RT E SY
RUNWAY FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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KATE SPADE
Y BEAUTY The Fall runways were full of all sorts of gorgeous trends—red lips, a strong cat eye, and even blue lashes. Here are a few ideas to steal for the summer season.
A L L I M AG E S CO U RT E SY
BY TANGIE SILVA
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BACKSTAGEReport / Shows by Maybelline New York
BURGUNDY LIDS
Inspired by Twiggy and the Biba store, makeup artist Romy Soleimani layered shades of wine and plum on the eyelids, which she topped with shimmering champagne and copper shadows. GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK The Burgundy Bar Eyeshadow Palette, $11.99, maybelline.com FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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KATE SPADE
VIBRANT LIPS
Model pouts were given a bright-red lip, blending the liner with a Made For All lipstick in the Spice For Me shade. The look was finished with Baby Lips Moisturizing Lip Balm in Quenched.
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Color Sensational Shaping Lip Liner in Divine Wine, $7.99, maybelline.com
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BACKSTAGEReport / Shows by Maybelline New York SUNSET SHADES
At the Cushnie show, Maybelline New York makeup artist Grace Lee took a monochromatic approach, applying a terracotta palette to eyes, cheeks, and lips, finishing with a defined cat eye.
NAME HERE CUSHNIE
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Color Sensational Made For All Lipstick in Spice For Me, $7.49, maybelline.com
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LAQUAN SMITH
GOLDEN TIMES The traditional smoky eye got a much-needed update with layers of bronze and gold. Paired with an extreme brow, this idea is destined for sultry midsummer nights.
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK The City Mini Palette in Hi-Rise Sunset, $9.99; Brow Precise Micro Eyebrow Pencil in Soft Brown, $7.99, both at maybelline.com FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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LA VIE EN ROUGE
To further boost the bordeaux tones in Alice + Olivia’s collection, Maybelline New York global makeup artist Erin Parsons mixed matte ruby shades for a “dark and sexy” effect to mimic a “blooming rose,” then topped it with a gloss on the darker outer edges of the lip.
ALICE + OLIVIA
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BACKSTAGEReport / Shows by Maybelline New York BRIGHT CRIMSON
Maybelline New York makeup artist Grace Lee went for an unapologetically feminine red lip, which she blurred to create a “perfectly imperfect” look.
JONATHAN SIMKHAI
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Color Sensational Made For All Lipstick in Red For Me, $7.49, maybelline.com
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LUXE LASHES
The berrying shades of red lips were paired with equally glam eyes. Shining gold and champagne shadow achieved added impact with curled and defined lashes sporting layers of mascara.
ALICE + OLIVIA
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK The Colossal Volum’ Express Washable Mascara, $7.77; Color Sensational Vivid Hot Lacquer Lip Gloss in Slay It, $7.99, both at maybelline.com
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BACKSTAGEReport / Shows by Maybelline New York
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Snapscara Washable Mascara in Deja Blue, $7.77, maybelline.com FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
ALL THAT GLITTERS
Mega royal-blue lashes were framed by “veils of crystals” at Christian Siriano’s Fall show. The eye was finished with just a hint of white silver liner on the inner eye.
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK TattooStudio Sharpenable Gel Pencil in Sparkling Silver, $7.99, maybelline.com
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BACKSTAGEReport / Shows by Maybelline New York ’70s GAZE
To complement the disco glam vibe of the Naeem Khan collection, makeup artist Gato pumped up the models lashes with several coats of mascara, adding to the subtle shimmer of the lids.
NAEEM KHAN
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Volum’ Express The Falsies Washable Mascara in Blackest Black, $7.77; TattooStudio Sharpenable Gel Pencil Liner in Deep Onyx, $7.99, both at maybelline.com
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EYE SPY
Graphic liner got edgier! Makeup artist Dick Page for Maybelline New York created various riffs on the concept, and he wasn’t afraid to go a little extreme. “It’s a cast of great-looking girls with occasional makeup intervention,” he said.
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK EyeStudio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner in Blackest Black, $9.99, maybelline.com
PROENZA SCHOULER
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BACKSTAGEReport / Shows by Maybelline New York
REBECCA MINKOFF
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RED FOR ALL
Taking inspiration from Ibiza and the ’60s free-love moment, Maybelline New York global makeup artist Grace Lee chose a softly blurred red lip at Rebecca Minkoff. Using the brand’s new Made For All lipstick, the Ruby For Me shade worked on all complexions.
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HELMUT LANG
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AU NATUREL
To create a “fresh and dewy” vibe, makeup artist Susie Sobol swiped a highlighter in the hollows then the tops of the cheeks for what she called “expensive-looking skin.”
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BACKSTAGEReport / Shows by Maybelline New York GLOW GIRLS
At Staud’s Fall show, Maybelline New York’s global makeup artist Erin Parsons achieved a “healthy, monochromatic glow” with a nod to the ’70s.
STAUD
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK City Bronzer & Contour Powder Makeup, $9.99, maybelline.com
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HELMUT LANG
DIVINE SHINE
To complement the collection’s metallic pieces, makeup artist Susie Sobol focused on luminous skin with a touch of gold and silver on the eyelids. GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK FaceStudio Master Strobing Stick Illuminating Highlighter in Medium Nude Glow, $9.99; Fit Me Dewy + Smooth Foundation, $7.99, both at maybelline.com FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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CO U RT E SY
GUTTER CREDITS TK
Especially in perma-sunny Los Angeles, ultra-cool sunglasses are a focal point of one’s look. Behold the season’s most important trends—and the killer styles from Sunglass Hut that will ensure that you get the look immediately.
LOGOS, LOGOS, LOGOS! “There’s no easier way to let your brand loyalty be known than to showcase it large and loud on your favorite pair of sunnies. This retro movement comes full circle with logos everywhere, achieving a look-at-me Instagram moment,” says Anna Longoni, North America Head of Sun Assortment for Sunglass Hut. Expect to see these retro-chic styles on the likes of Gigi, Bella, and Kendall.
SLEEK NEW SHAPES “It’s time to break out of your aviator rut and play around with contemporary frames that are either metallic, transparent, or generally unexpected. Uniquely shaped frames—including exaggerated cat eyes, rectangles, and oversize squares—are having a moment this spring,” says Longoni. “If you don’t feel comfortable trying an over-thetop clothing trend, sunglasses are an easy way to experiment and expand your wardrobe.” Our favorites: hexagonal or pentagonal styles, which can inject a dose of very ’19 chic into any look.
TOTAL TRANSPARENCY Now you see them, now you don’t. “Many designer brands are playing with the barely there contours of transparent shapes this year. These styles are flirtatious and let light pop through, revealing a fresh contemporary silhouette,” says Longoni. You’ve already seen them on the likes of Miley and Bella—we’re especially liking them with the season’s retro-chic floral dresses and streetwear styles.
ALL THINGS ATHLEISURE
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CYBER COLORS
This activewear-meets-street-style look is inspired by the ’80s—especially the era’s colorful, mirrored visors. Blending performance with total wearability, these transition well from the gym to the street. “Contrasting bright colors, extended wrap profiles with flat top lines, and mirrored lenses are all essential to achieve this active look,” says Longoni.
Ensure that your eyes are the center of attention with these colored sunglasses that truly pop. “Keep an eye out for acid-washed bright colors in fun pastels and nude color palettes to really amplify your entire ensemble,” says Longoni. The inspo: ’90s-esque computer graphics, neon signage, and experimental digital art.
All available at Sunglass Hut stores and sunglasshut.com
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MAGICMaker
KIT ESSENTIALS Moroccanoil Dry Texture Spray and Blow-Dry Concentrate
Bryce Scarlett is the mastermind of some of the hautest hair looks on beauties du moment like Brie Larson, Margot Robbie, and Gigi Hadid. We asked this exciting talent, who serves as Moroccanoil’s celebrity hairstylist, to reveal the tricks of his trade. BY ASHLEY BAKER
HOLLYWOOD’s
First things first: Do you remember when you first became interested in styling hair? My interest in hair started very young. When I was about 4 years old, my mom sold a salon she had and started doing hair at home. I would spend my days watching her and asking questions. As a kid, whose hair did you fall in love with? Some of my earliest memories consist of digging through the fashion magazines she had around. I was captivated by the images, the clothes, and primarily, the hair. When did you decide to pursue hairstyling professionally? It wasn’t until my last year of high school that I clearly
understood what it was to do hair outside of a salon. That was when I first really pictured a career for myself. Who was your first major celebrity client? [Colorist] Tracey Cunningham introduced me to Lily Aldridge when I was around 21 years old. She was the first publicly known person to really ask for me and push to get me on jobs. Working with Lily has always been special. We really grew up in the industry together; she is as kind as she is beautiful. She was truly my first real muse. How did your business grow? After Lily, I quickly started working with other bigname models like Karolína Kurková, Kate Upton, Gigi Hadid, and Anne Vyalitsyna. All these women really
helped to define the beginning of my career. It was an interesting time as Instagram was just taking off and models were more and more in charge of who they worked with. Where are you based these days, and how much time do you spend on the road? I lived in New York City for nine years and relocated to Los Angeles last summer. Living in New York was the best decision I ever made, and I loved every minute of it. Now, I have settled in L.A. with ease, and it has been a really welcome change. Between September and June, I spend more than 50 percent of my time on the road and try to really slow down in the summer and recharge for the following season.
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MANE MAN
HAIR HEAVEN Bryce Scarlett’s work, as seen on (clockwise from left) Lily Aldridge, Margot Robbie, Rosamund Pike, and Brie Larson.
“
CO U RT E SY
I’M NEVER ONE TO USE THE WORD ‘TREND.’ FOR ME, IF SOMETHING IS A TREND THAT MEANS I’M ALREADY SEEING IT TOO MUCH, AND IT DOESN’T FEEL NEW.” You’re working with some of the biggest stars in Hollywood these days, like Brie Larson. How do you describe her hair look? To me, Brie is a classic California beauty. She’s newly very blonde, and we’re having so much fun with that. I’m halfway through her international press tour for Captain Marvel. We started the tour with that color change and a fresh bob haircut that I’ve been styling loose and easy, letting the fresh length be the focus of the style. What products did you use to style her hair for the Oscars? Can you walk us through that process? I wanted Brie’s hair to have a slept-in, textured, soft, and not overly shiny look to complement her sparkling dress. On damp hair, use a dime-size amount of Moroccanoil Treatment Light to provide the perfect foundation for styling. Next, apply Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse at the roots of the hair and Moroccanoil Blow-Dry Concentrate at the ends. Blow dry the hair using the Moroccanoil Professional Series Tourmaline Ceramic Hair Dryer with the 45 mm Moroccanoil Boar Bristle Round Brush for a smooth and full-bodied blowout. Then, bend hair with the Moroccanoil Professional Series Titanium Ceramic Hairstyling Iron to create different size S waves throughout the hair for a textured, voluminous style. Break up the waves with your fingers and spray Moroccanoil Dry Texture Spray generously throughout the hair while keeping the arch around the frame of the face. Lastly, spray Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Medium throughout sections of the hair to create a tousled finish look.
We’re also obsessed with all things Margot Robbie. What’s your vision for her hair at this moment? I’ve had so much fun with Margot over the past few years. I’m always changing up her look but try to stay true to her classic beauty. She’s currently wearing her hair a bit longer, and I’ve been referencing a ’70s era Lauren Hutton. And tell us about Natalie Portman’s Oscar party look! How did that come together? Natalie wore a sharp Dior jumpsuit to the Vanity Fair Oscars party this year, adorned with a lot of diamonds. I left her hair very simple and undone to keep the look modern with her glamorous jewelry. Heading into spring, what are some of your favorite hair trends? I’m never one to use the word “trend.” For me, if something is a trend that means I’m already seeing it too much and it doesn’t feel new. I respect the clothes that the girls are wearing and the way the girls wants to be perceived. Those are the things that inspire me and direct me every season. Which Moroccanoil products do you always keep in your kit? I always have the Moroccanoil Dry Texture Spray and the Moroccanoil Dry Shampoo in both Dark and Light Tones. Most recently, I’m obsessed with the Moroccanoil Blow-Dry Concentrate and of course, the Moroccanoil Treatment Original. If you had to pick a favorite, what would it be? My absolute favorite is the Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray. I use it in so many ways and would never not have it on me. It’s amazing as a classic hairspray
for texture and hold but also can be used to achieve shiny, slick hair or that great fresh-out-of-the-shower slightly wet look. What’s your best advice for a woman who desperately wants to change up her hair look, but doesn’t know where to start? Find a style icon. Whose look do you identify with? Whenever I start working with a new client, I try to find a reference for them of someone I feel they embody or resemble. I often reference models or actresses from the ’60s, ’70s, ’80s, and lately, the ’90s. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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FASHIONMaverick VISION QUEST L’Agence’s Jeff Rudes
CHIC With a customer-first mentality and a commitment to wearability, L’Agence is one of fashion’s biggest success stories in recent years. CEO and creative director Jeff Rudes explains the mission behind the brand’s success. BY ASHLEY BAKER
You launched L’Agence in 2008 with a Los Angelesmeets-Paris aesthetic. What inspired that direction? A founding partner, Margaret Maldonado, was L’Agence’s designer at the time, and she had a really strong point of view. Yes, it had a Parisian attitude, because it was very styled and sexy, with a little bit of an edgy feel. We spent time in New York and France, looking at different things these girls were wearing on the street. Honestly, Margaret was a super talent, and she was able to put this together. Ron Herman, the iconic merchant, is another partner, and I was part of the equation, too. We all had an influence on what L’Agence should look like.
someone’s going to pass right over. Today, I see a lot of fashion that’s a little bit trendy, and not looking so great. There are things going on in the industry that will have some sort of correction. I can’t shop men’s [departments] for the life of me, because I don’t wear sweatpants. That’s not my look. I know it’s really thriving in the industry, and I don’t find anything attractive about it. Look at what influencers can do—they can dictate a look. So it’s safe to say we’re not going to see you in a grandpa sneaker? I’m more into boots or, in the summertime, loafers without a sock and a jean cut above my ankle. I’m simple. I have a uniform. What is your recipe for success? The important thing is to evolve the customer and keep her interested and excited about the brand. If we didn’t do that, then we didn’t do our job. Sometimes, what happens in the design room can be dangerous—you can get sent in a new direction. You get too caught up on trend, and you take a direction, and it’s really not what the DNA of the company is about. If the customer gets confused, it can impact the momentum. I would never let that happen.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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MASTER OF
How has that concept developed? We created a look that the girls want to wear from day to night, and that evolved into jeans and what works around the jean, whether it’s a T-shirt, a silk blouse, a cotton blouse, a jacket, or a sweater. There are also beautiful spaghetti-strapped dresses, jumpsuits, and much more in the collection, but the strong message goes back to the jean in a chic and sophisticated way. What are some of your best sellers? Denim and blouses are making up around 80 percent of our business, which is really booming now. All categories that we’re shipping are selling. There’s not one category that is weak, because we’re driven to creating product that sells. We make clothes for real people. Recently, at our Madison Avenue store, a customer from South Carolina who never knew about our brand came in and spent $3,800. There was so much [product] that she stayed in the store for two hours and really shopped. It’s a very, very simple concept. We don’t do runway, we don’t do tricky clothing, or extra zippers; there’s none of that that goes on in the collection. What’s your starting point for each season? I tell the design team, “Let’s evolve the customer.” If we gave her something last season that she bought and really liked, what is she going to be looking for next? If she’s buying silk blouses from us season after season, how do we evolve her? We can’t keep it stale—she has to be excited, interested, and curious about what’s next. Do you see social media as being a sales driver or is it more of a marketing play? There’s a lot of debate about this in the industry right now. I think it’s both. Everybody has to shop, right? Where do they get their inspiration from? [Social media] is a big driver, but it might not be an immediate converter. When people are seeing the brand again and again, and they like the clothing, they will end up in that brand’s space and buy something. How has your marketing strategy evolved? Today, we’re very digital-, social-, and influencer-driven, although we do some print [advertising]. For a fashion brand, everything is about images today, and it’s all about looking cool. You don’t want to look at an image that
R U D E S : C O U R T E S Y L’A G E N C E ; J A C O P O M O S C H I N ( 3 )
LOOKS WE LOVE L’Agence’s Fall ’19 collection is infused with high-impact jackets, versatile shirting, and covetable silks and prints.
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Mehwish Iqbal, Fragile bodies, 2018. Ball: 17.7” diameter; Bodies: 3 x 7”
INSTINCTS French sculptor CÉVÉ has become a global sensation, thanks to her innovative approach to beloved animals. As she prepares to unveil her latest work at the FLAs, she spoke to THE DAILY about her creative process, globe-trotting lifestyle, and sensational new series. BY ASHLEY BAKER In 2018, you had your first solo show in the U.S. at HG Contemporary Gallery, in New York. How was your work received? Creating this collection was definitely a challenge I loved to take on! I had great expectations and excitement for this first show in New York, and I couldn’t be happier with the results and the warmest welcome in the city of dreams! HG Contemporary did an incredible job— Philippe Hoerle-Guggenheim, the owner of the gallery, curated it beautifully. A large number of pieces were sold and everyone that experienced the work was in awe. And above all, this is what I wanted to share when we imagined “Young Forever,” to give a throwback to everyone of an innocent, happy childhood! Why was it so important to expand into the U.S. market? The U.S. market has always been one of my main goals due to its global diversity, appreciation of the craftsmanship and trends from overseas, and the open mindedness, but above all, because the U.S. has given a chance to so many artists that I admire. If you can make it in New York, you can make it anywhere, right?
My home base is in the beautiful coastal city of Deauville, where I have installed my atelier. I am there around two weeks per month to work on new projects. The rest of the time is spent traveling to the foundry on the east side of France, visiting my galleries, and attending events across the country, as well as in Europe, the U.S., and Asia. What initially drew you to sculpting animals? I really love animals, and my work is recognized easily by a specific style—the purity of the line and the soft, smooth bronze I create. I consider that a sculpture should not only be looked at, but it should make the art lover feel like he or she is actually feeling it. Can you give us some insight into how each piece is fabricated? For the smaller pieces, I usually start with wax, but I prefer baked clay, as I truly love how soft and easy this material is. I have also worked with stone for some larger projects. Where will your work be exhibited in the coming year? At the moment, besides my current exhibitions in France, Switzerland, and Italy, I have a new gallery project in London, because many of my collectors are living there and have been waiting for me to make it in this vibrant capital! We are also preparing big projects in New York and Miami, specifically for Fashion Week and Art Basel. More soon! Any other exciting projects that we should know about? Always! I have a few other large pieces to be released soon, such as a panther and a couple of penguins. How exciting to see them coming alive! It’s great as a few of them are already preordered by collectors, and I couldn’t be more thankful for their support!
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ANIMAL
What inspired the creation of “Teddy’s”? I have dedicated a large part of my earlier career to the wellness of children, as I was in charge of the visually impaired group in a French hospital. With a true passion and even in the most hopeless cases, I have always helped all of them physically and mentally. With a real attachment to young children, I started drawing teddy bears and other symbols of childhood innocence. I started to pursue this talent by bringing these drawings to life as sculptures. One of my first sculptures was a tiny blue teddy bear. In 2018, while I visited my son in New York and brought him this piece as a memory from France, one longtime friend gave me the idea to reproduce it in different formats and lively colors. I took this unique opportunity to exhibit for the first time in New York, and after meeting Philippe, I invested in creating this series. A luxury touch of French craftsmanship with the innocent touch of childhood—I believe everyone has a child inside of them, and I can help contribute to making that child smile! How do you plan to exhibit the bears at the Fashion Los Angeles Awards? Along with HG Contemporary, I will proudly feature a part of the collection on a dedicated wall in order to bring this touch of childhood during this glamorous ceremony! All these lively colors will perfectly mingle with the guests’ outfits. I cannot wait! Have you been to Los Angeles before? I have actually been only once, in 2016, but it was such a memorable experience. If it wasn’t that far from home, I would go every weekend! From a breakfast at Chateau Marmont to a sunset dinner at Little Beach House Malibu, I have a feeling of freedom and wellness in the City of Angels! How do you split your time among your various residences?
DA N I E L S E R R E T T E / H G CO M T E M P O RA RY
ARTStar
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O u r t i m e l e s s Fre n c h b e e r i s s e a rc h i n g f o r t h e per fect hands to hold it.
1. G e t y o u r e l e g a n t h a n d s o n a b o t t l e o f 1 6 6 4 B l a n c . 2. Ta ke a t a s t e f u l p h o t o h o l d i n g the iconic blue bottle. 3. Upload to Instagram and use #1664handmodel.
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EDITORIAL PROMOTION WHOLE FOODS (Clockwise from left) WelleCo’s SUPER ELIXIR; Women’s Libido + Hormone Support Super Booster; Men’s Libido + Endurance Super Booster; all available at welleco.com.
BOOST?
Chances are, you’re already hooked on WelleCo’s celebrated SUPER ELIXIR supplement. Now, the wellness brand introduces a new line of Super Boosters, which address certain issues like libido, hormonal support, gut health, and skin, hair, and nails. We asked David Wilkinson, a formulator of the Super Boosters and a member of WelleCo’s Scientific Council, to give us the scoop. What is your professional background? I have a couple of science degrees—one in pharmacology and one in pharmacy. I’ve worked in various roles across supplement companies, and most recently more exclusively in formulation and creating products. When did you first get into natural medicines? I ended up in science after being a full-time musician for a number of years. It struck me pretty early on that mainstream medicine seemed to have a bias against natural medicines. This felt really odd, as nearly all wellknown medicines are derived originally from plants. I really felt that natural medicine needed more focus from the “scientific establishment,” so I decided to concentrate on this area and was lucky enough to land a job with Australia’s biggest natural medicines consultancy straight out of my first degree. This was 15 years ago, and I’ve stayed in the field ever since. What do you find to be especially innovative about WelleCo? WelleCo comes from a starting point of authentic
wellness. It’s not just about the products, it’s about lifestyle and the choices we make every single day. WelleCo has successfully built a global community of likeminded individuals, which provides strength in itself. What was your initial reaction to SUPER ELIXIR? I have to say the first time I tried it, it was a bit of an experience. It is a big shot of greens and plant nutrients that truly tastes green. I take it every morning now, and it’s hard to imagine it tasting any other way. What’s the concept behind the brand’s new Super Boosters? How did you and your team formulate them? Super Boosters was born out of an idea the WelleCo team had to add a “boost” compatible with the SUPER ELIXIR and NOURISHING PLANT PROTEIN. Instead of being applicable for general wellness like the existing products, the Super Boosters are specifically targeted to certain health areas and designed to be used for as long as there’s a need. From the start, Super Boosters were intended to be a new class of product—plant-based and therapeutic—so we pretty much started with a clean slate.
We were careful to honor the plant-based nature of the products wherever possible—even routine vitamins and minerals were sourced from plants. How long did it take you to finalize the products? The project ran for around four months. We took a systematic approach, assessing around 100 ingredients in total. Although it took a lot of focus, the systemic approach paid off big time when it came to drafting the initial formulations. As these are powdered products to be consumed in drinks or food, flavor and dissolvability would play a big part, and some of the plant extracts tasted pretty extreme! So using the knowledge we’d gained on each ingredient, we had a pretty good shot at creating workable trial products. We then refined them until everything was feeling right. What’s your favorite way to consume them? I take them in water—a decent-size glass, around eight ounces. We formulated them to be taken in a whole range of ways, though; some people are mixing Super Boosters in with their daily shot of SUPER ELIXIR or a smoothie. What’s your favorite smoothie recipe? I’m going to have to be honest here—I haven’t made smoothies regularly in a while. I am obsessed with snacking on raw brassicas, like broccoli, kale, and Brussels sprouts. A few years ago I was up in the Yarra Valley, the wine region close to Melbourne, and picked up a bag of the morning’s harvest from a Brussels sprout farm. I thought to myself, “Surely I can eat these like an apple?” I haven’t stopped since, although it does freak some people out!
CO U RT E SY
Need a
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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VISIONQuest
Artist Louis Carreon recently signed an international deal with HG Contemporary. In 2019, the gallery will represent him with a solo show in NYC, and at Art Basel Miami. THE DAILY called the Cali native to discuss his most recent work. BY ARIA DARCELLA
Tell us about the Ballerina collection. [It] was inspired by growing up in Los Angeles. The ballerinas represent thespians, actors, poets, models, dancers—whoever moves to Hollywood, stimulated to come and be a celebrity by reaching their goals. The ballerina represents them and the lust and addiction that beats them up along the way. My ballerinas look strong at first, but if you look closely, their dresses are moved and tattered. They’re in weird positions that aren’t really formal when it comes to that type of dance. They have bottles of booze on the floor, snakes next to them. It represents all the people who come here—which is so many people—in pursuit of the American dream. They get caught up in their ego and addiction, become tattered, and fall victim to the dangers of ego versus mastering their craft. I was part of that, and fell victim to drugs and all the things that straight up derail you from keeping your eyes on the prize and being able to manifest your own destiny. They’re broken dancers who should have loved themselves more. How long have you been working with this concept? I’ve been doing [similar things] for 15, 20 years. I’ve been painting the narrative of self love/addiction/she loves me/she loves me not/he loves me/he loves me not type of stuff, so it’s a lifelong narrative. Right now, the ballerina happens to be what’s being projected. Why are ballerinas the right figures to express these ideas? When you see dancers, they’re just beautiful.
Ballerinas are iconic. I’m inspired by [Edgar] Degas, and Degas did ballerinas. I took a piece of one of my favorite artists and spun the narrative to work into my contemporary space and relate to pop culture. We read that you did a lot of spray-painting as a kid. I started painting and graffiti in 1990 with a crew out of Long Beach called KBH. Graffiti was my first addiction of art. I grew up tagging and bombing the freeways, the interstates of California, strictly out for fame. Stealing paint, riding buses, scribing buses, fighting over letters— that’s the culture that I come from. That’s all I really knew about art. Art was always lustful to me. There was a lot of ego in art, and there was a lot of pride. As I transitioned into being a contemporary artist, I still have that “I don’t give a f**k” in me. Painting is my release. I’m sober. Painting has saved my life many, many times over. I’m still free when I paint, and I still paint only for myself. I’m still pretty much as raw as I was then, I just have a different audience now. What was it like creating a mural for a jet? I’d been waiting for that literally since I was 17 years old. I decided to use a spray can because I wanted to keep the aesthetic 100 percent righteous to how I grew up. I’ve been waiting to spray-paint something high end like that literally my whole life, so it was very easy. It was something that was a joy for me. Just watching my international symbols of travel, bless that plane.… It was a glorious moment for me because these same lines came through the derivative of graffiti, addiction, lust, greed, love, and all those things that I’ve struggled with…the culmination of my narrative. Do you have any idea where the plane is now? They decommissioned it. They sent me a picture of the plane being wheeled out of the airport. It was commissioned by Landmark Aviation, and they wanted it as their Art Basel piece. It was gonna sit outside as a piece at their airport. Somebody bought it and turned it into a bar or a clubhouse, something like that. We heard you were designing streetwear at one point. Yes! I was doing streetwear. I was one of the first people to ever sell to Fred Segal. In 2000, I think, 2002–2004.
I painted all my own clothes with spray paint. Rolling into Fred Segal and saying, “Hey, you guys should look at my s**t and buy my clothing line.” And they did! I was painting tons of hoodies and blazers. I was hanging in Saks Fifth Avenue next to Libertine and Great Wall of China and all those really cool, high-end streetwear brands from back in the day. It was pretty cool. Do you think you will ever get back into fashion? I wouldn’t want to do it myself. If there was a really cool collaboration with someone who had a great voice and we could create something that was for a purpose, then I’m always open for that. But as of now, it’s all meant to be on canvas to me. I realized that after doing that for years.… I’m a painter, whether it’s clothes or canvas. I’m always creating. That’s what I do.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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YELL
C A R R EO N : C H R I S K E L L E R ; A L L OT H E R S CO U RT E SY
REBEL
DARK DANCE Carreon’s latest series of paintings depicts the dark side of ambition through the softness of ballerinas.
www.PlanetByLaurenG.com
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DAILYQuiz
1. Which A-lister walked in Karl
Lagerfeld’s final runway collection for Chanel? A. Brie Larson B. Penélope Cruz C. Glenn Close D. Charlize Theron
2. Who is Louise Trotter?
A. The hottest new model at IMG B. The haute new designer at Lacoste C. The HR honcho at Netflix D. The producer of Jessica Jones
3. C’est qui, the new style director of Departures? A. Town & Country alum Nicoletta Santoro B. Esquire alum Jay Fielden C. Elle alum Robbie Myers D. Vogue alum Alessandra Codinha
4. What’s next for Alec Baldwin?
A. A starring role in Framing John DeLorean, a hybrid doc about the ’80s auto exec B. He’s producing Be More Chill, the new Broadway sensation C. A childrenswear collection D. You Can Tan!, a new line of sunless tanning lotion that’s marketed to men over 55
5. Which media outlet was disinvited from the Vanity Fair Oscar party? A. The New York Post B. The New York Times C. The New York Daily News D. New York magazine
6. Speaking of VF, what’s the name of Graydon Carter’s new media company? A. The Swoop B. As Ever Productions C. Bonfire of the Vanities D. Air Mail
PARADE OF CHIC The Chanel Fall ’19 runway.
7. What, exactly, is Enfants Riches Déprimés?
A. An L.A.–based fashion brand known for breathtakingly expensive streetwear B. A new band fronted by Lana Del Rey C. A by-invitation-only private club with a $200K initiation fee D. Colette’s long-lost novel, which was recently discovered during a renovation of the Palais-Royal
8. Where did styling powerhouse Wayman Bannerman and Micah McDonald initially meet?
A. On a Vogue shoot B. At a dinner chez their now-client Forest Whitaker C. At a house party in Harlem D. In college
9. Where does Kate Winslet keep the Oscar she won for 2008’s The Reader?
A. On the top shelf of her closet B. On her toilet C. In a display case on her private plane D. On the mantel above her fireplace
0–3 CORRECT ANSWERS
4–6 CORRECT ANSWERS
7–9 CORRECT ANSWERS
You’re forever iconic, if a touch, ahem, out of the loop. Help is here! Study your Daily religiously at fashionweekdaily.com.
Gah! We’ve missed you! You deserve to be more au courant. Read this issue from cover to cover, and you’ll be back in style in no time!
No wonder you’re the girl of the moment. Let’s get lunch when we’re in town!
YOU ARE…LUCY LAWLESS
YOU ARE…LUCY PUNCH
YOU ARE…LUCY BOYNTON
ANSWERS: 1. B; 2. B; 3. D; 4. A; 5. B; 6. D; 7. A; 8. C; 9. B FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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FASHION QUIZ!
“Ready for the FLAs?!”
G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 5 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 2 ) ; S H U T T E R S T O C K ( 1 )
Do you know your Karl from your Karlie, your Alec from your Alexa, your Moda Operandi from your motorcycle jacket? Take the test!
S:13”
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