LOGO ART BY
JI WON CHOI
FOR
LIFEWTR
february 9–10, 2019
the
new wave
50+ names to know
right now!
PLUS! misa hylton dishes on her
mcm collab! danielle bernstein secrets revealed!
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©2018 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Series 6.1 Art by Ji Won Choi
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©2018 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Series 6.2 Art by Jamall Osterholm
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More than water. A canvas for artists. INTRODUCING Diversity in Design In partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America, this series “Diversity in Design” spotlights bold, empowered emerging designers. ©2018 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Ji Won Choi Jamall Osterholm Daniel Cloke
Discover more at LIFEWTR.com
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©2018 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Series 6.3 Art by Daniel Cloke
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MONDAY I TUESDAY I WEDNESDAY
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CHICMoments
SQUAD GOALS The Daily X L’Agence Dinner
On Tuesday night, The Daily and L’Agence held an intimate dinner at Scarpetta, co-hosted by Jeffrey Rudes, to kick off New York Fashion Week’s Fall 2019 season. Nadine Leopold shared her personal strategy for dealing with all the NYFW insanity: “I sing in the shower, as loud as I can.” What does she sing? “ ’Shallow,’ by Lady Gaga. I loved A Star Is Born so much. I cried. Even my boyfriend cried.” Same! Cocktail hour was followed by a fabulous four-course meal of Scarpetta’s greatest hits, including its famous creamy polenta with fricassée of truffled mushrooms. Conversation was lively, with Nina Agdal regaling her table neighbors with a hilarious story about a prank phone call she recently filmed for her YouTube show, Quirky Is the New Black, while Next model Gustav Witzoe offered travel tips for one chicster’s upcoming visit to Norway. Thanks, love!
(From left) Nina Agdal, Devon Windsor, Jeffrey Rudes, Brandusa Niro, Albert Schami, Juana Burga, Nadine Leopold, and Mariah Strongin
Special thanks TO…
our friends at Scarpetta for the wonderful meal, and Venus et Fleur for the gorg flowers.
The dinner scene at Scarpetta
BY CHARLES MANNING PHOTOGRAPHY BY HANNAH TURNER-HARTS FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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Isabeli Fontana Christie Ferrari Gustav Witzoe Krystal Bick and Helena Glazer Hodne
Lorena and Albert Schami
Daniela Lopez, Mariah Strongin, and Nadine Leopold Maeve Reilly
TK Wonder and Cipriana Quann
Juana Burga and Mariah Strongin
Devon Windsor
Daniela Lopez Janelle Fishman and Carin Backoff
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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amfar
Kim Kardashian West and Mert Alas
Heidi Klum
Chief Content Officer Executive Editor & Director, Strategic Partnerships Eddie Roche Ashley Baker “The Witches of New York, by Ami McKay”
SCENE
The Daily Wonders…
With MICHELLE RODRIGUEZ, who presented the Award of Courage to Milla Jovovich When did you first meet Milla? When I was 21 years old, and I had the biggest crush on her. She mixes Cleopatra energy and warrior princess energy with the charm, allure, and coldbloodedness of a killer. I’ve always been in awe. Why do you support amfAR? Because it’s run by a bunch of individuals who really knew what the f**k they were doing! Advancements in the science of curing AIDS has been developed by the research they’ve funded. I’m like, dude, these guys are solid! And you can look at their track record—every five years, there’s a big bang of evolution in what they’re trying to do. I’ve been a big fan for the past 10 years because of that.
YOUR DIGITAL FIXATIONS, DISCUSSED!
“Eileen, by Ottessa Moshfegh”
Fashion News Editor Aria Darcella Contributing Art Director Teresa Platt
Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists George Maier, Rick Schwab
Mark Tevis
Senior Advisor Anne V
Senior Director, Brand Partnerships Betsy Jones Executive Sales Director Carrie Brudner Fashion Publishing Director Monica Forman
Shea Marie
Devon Windsor
Digital Director Charles Manning
Contributing Photo Editor Hannah Turner-Harts
MILLA JOVOVICH “Manet. Especially at my age, it would be nice to get a little bit of that diffusion.”
KATE BOCK “Peter Lindbergh. Classic, beautiful, black and white.”
Contributing Editor Alexandra Ilyashov
Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro
If you could have any photographer or painter do your portrait, who would you like it to be?
TRUTH TELLING!
Creative Director Dean Quigley
“A Life of My Own, a new-ish memoir by English literary biographer Claire Tomalin.”
CAROLINE VREELAND “I mean, at the risk of looking bloated, Botero. But probably Bacon. I just love Francis Bacon.”
Publishing & Market Research Nandini Vaid Digital Operations Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor
To advertise, call (646) 768-8101 Or e-mail: advertising@dailyfrontrow.com The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright © 2019. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 810 Seventh Avenue, Ste. 400A, New York, NY 10019.
Presented By EYEJUST, ng a blue-light blocki ur yo r fo screen iPhone and iPad
Q&A WITH Retrofete’s Ohad Seroya and Aviad Klin
How much time do you spend on your smartphone? Too much time! We are iPhone addicts. What’s your guiltiest Instagram pleasure? Ohad loves stalking videos of hairdressers and dancers. Not everyone knows that he used to be a dancer and hairdresser when he was young. Who is the most phone-addicted person you know? We are! Do you believe in screen-time detoxes? If so, how do you do it? The only time we really allow ourselves to disconnect from our phones is when we are going out to a party. “Welcome to the party” is not our slogan for nothing!
On the coverS: Collage featuring photos from Getty Images, firstVIEW, and patrickmcmullan.com. All others courtesy. Logo art by Ji Won Choi, Daniel Cloke, and Jamall Osterholm for LIFEWTR.
Ibrahim Kamara
next of kin Ruth E. Carter and Ivan Bart
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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GUTTER CREDITS t k
Candice Swanepoel
Models galore gathered at Cipriani Wall Street to toast the Fashion Week amfAR Gala New York, which honored Milla Jovovich, Simon de Pury, and Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. • At Spring Studios, costume designer Ruth E. Carter hosted a one-night-only installation of her work called “Next of Kin,” which she curated in collaboration with stylist Ibrahim Kamara.
Managing Editor Tangie Silva
j a r e d s i s k i n / g e t t y i m a g e s , c o u r t e s y a m fa r ( 1 3 ) ; b e n n e t T r a g l i n / g e t t y i m a g e s ( 5 ) ; a l e x a n d e r l i p k i n ( 1 ) ; a l l o t h e r s c o u r t e s y
Winnie Harlow
Alan Cumming
“Chéri, from my brilliant, beloved Colette. I need a lot of love this Fashion Week, and she gives it to me on each page.”
THE DAILY WONDERS… Which Brandusa Niro novel are you Editor in Chief, CEO reading at the moment?
S:10.25”
S:13”
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DESIGNER TO WATCH After spending 10 years as Brie Larson
Shailene Woodley
Alana, Danielle, and Este Haim
scene
Shailene! Brie! Lucy! The Haim sisters! Despite the fact that Rodarte showed its Fall ’19 collection in Pasadena, California, Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s celeb-stocked runway spectacular at the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens managed to be le talk of NYFW. We can’t help it—we kind of love these unabashedly wacky looks.
the creative director of Dennis Basso, Emily Burnett launched her own line, Burnett New York, on Neta-Porter for Pre-Fall ’19. “Burnett is for the modern woman with unapologetic strength and powerful femininity,” says the designer, who shows at Spring Studios on February 12. “We believe in the confidence that an expertly crafted garment can inspire and evangelize personal style as a symbol of independence.”
Q&A With gallerist du moment INIGO PHILBRICK
Lucy Boynton
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5 THINGS YOU DON’T KNOW ABOUT ME
With Hellessey designer Sylvie MilLstein I maintain the color 3. Growing up, my 1. I still use a idols were Kate Moss every six weeks, Blackberry as my and Vanessa Paradis. which leaves no time primary phone. in my schedule for a 2. My everyday work 4. I went blonde haircut, so I just let when I was 25, and uniform is T-shirt, my hair grow long Christophe Robin track pants, and without trimming for himself did it. sneakers.
at least a year. 5. I’m very competitive at heart. I play poker monthly with a group of similarly competitive women!
in buying and selling emerging artists, we have developed our program over the years such that we now regularly handle top examples of post-war and contemporary art with a special focus on artists who came to prominence in the 1980s. We also have a clear view of which younger artists we believe are likely to develop into lasting talents, and we put our reputation on the line in staking these careers out and trying to support the works in the best way we can. What are your plans for NYFW? While I love spending time in New York and have always toyed with the idea of opening a gallery here, my main focus right now is on the THIS JUST IN! gallery in Miami, Easy Victor Café, the upcoming the all-day joint located show, and inside Hudson Yards haute getting the spot Legacy Records, is now space ready for delivering brekky, lunch, a couple other and dinner via Caviar. Don’t deny yourselves exciting things the legendary BEC! we have planned through the next Art Basel. PROMOTION
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What is the title of the new four-part TV series chronicling the Italian fashion industry in the 1970s?
PRO TIP: For extra impact, layer on a second coat.
A. Dolce’s Vita B. Made In Italy C. Milano Memoirs D. Verde, Rosso, e Bianca PROMOTION
s h u t t e r s t o c k ( 5 ) ; z a c h h i lt y/ b fa . c o m ( 1 ) ; a l l o t h e r s c o u r t e sy
Get the glow
Tell us a little bit about your new exhibition in Miami. How did it come together? We were excited by the opportunity to introduce the range of artists we deal with. Opening in a new city is an invitation to show your vision, and this is especially true of Miami in December; when the city is suddenly the art capital of the world, or at least the market hub [due to Art Basel]. I wanted to make an exhibition that showed our commitment to artists of all generations and degrees of career development. We were lucky to have access at that moment to masterworks of three artists—Bridget Riley, Wade Guyton, and Avery Singer— who are rarely shown side-by-side, but nonetheless have entrenched relationships and affinities. Following this, we are presenting a two-artist show of Rudolf Stingel and Franz West, both hugely respected but rarely exhibited together, even though they were great friends. The artists share a preoccupation with use, design, ornament, and a performative audience, so we’re excited to make the connection. What is your gallery known for? We are a secondary-market gallery, specializing in working with collectors and our colleagues on important examples of 20th- and 21st-century fine art. While the origin of my professional experience was
CAN YOU GUESS ANSWER: B FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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talentScout
Your Daily is always on the lookout for the standout creatives of today (and tomorrow).
edited by eddie roche & Alexandra ilyashov
The designers VICTORIA HAYES Did you always want to be a designer?
I always loved fashion but told myself I wasn’t “allowed” to pursue it as a career choice—I thought it was too much of a risk. It took four years of pre-med classes in a hospital anatomy lab to admit to myself I was never going to pursue a career in medicine. I realized in pre-med that life is short. If you have the good fortune of doing what you enjoy, take the chance!
LAQUAN SMITH Queens, NYC Smith’s grandma schooled him on sewing; he taught himself pattern-making by deconstructing Goodwill threads. Signature aesthetic Ultra-sexy, glamorous, body-con, with lots of sheer and sparkles Celeb fans Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Kim Kardashian, J.Lo, Ariana Grande, and Kendall Jenner Designer icon Azzedine Alaïa Last laugh “Parsons and FIT actually denied me admission back in the day, but they now invite me to talk to their students about perseverance,” Smith told Teen Vogue in 2016. Hails from
Early education
JARNO LEPPANEN & KA WA KEY CHOW, KA WA KEY How did you two meet?
KWKC: The classic way—dating apps! We did a project together—Jarno directed and choreographed my presentation. Everything worked well, and we decided to start running the brand together. We design everything together; I’m responsible for production, and Jarno focuses on communications and PR. Did you always want to be designers?
KWKC: No, I had many different options before I actually started studying knitwear and fashion. I went to business college, where I got A’s; at some point, I really considered working in business. JL: No, I wanted to be an actor! Who’s your dream collaborator?
KWKC & JL: Ryan McGinley. We’d love to do photo shoots with him. Which designers do you look up to?
KWKC: Vetements, because they challenge what fashion is. JL: Rick Owens and the late Alexander McQueen. I love the theatricality of both.
What inspired you to launch your own label?
I thought I’d work in the industry for several years as a designer before launching my own label, but my Canadian citizenship sort of forced my hand. A previous employer closed and I had to go back to school to stay in NYC, so I got my master’s from Pratt in design management. I designed collections in graduate school to build my portfolio and get press. The degree was a crash course in running a business; after graduating, I decided to continue working on collections, as opposed to working for someone else. What’s your brand’s signature?
I’m focused on novelty suiting. I really don’t care about offering basics; plenty of people make great wardrobe staples. You come to me for outfits that ensure people see you coming from 30 feet away. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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So we’ve meticulously rounded up dozens of designers, photographers, models, beauty pros, influencers, and more currently on our radar—and soon, on yours, too. Ready to ride the new wave of talent that’s poised to shape 2019, in fashion and beyond? Meet the creative forces commanding our attention this season.
KERBY JEANRAYMOND, PYER MOSS Brooklyn Past collections have explored hefty themes, like the Black Lives Matter movement, capitalism and greed, and mental illness. bold choice Hailed as “the hottest brand at NYFW” by Vanessa Friedman…he’s chosen not to show this season. Name origins Pyer Moss, pronounced “Pierre Moss,” is a combo of the designer’s mother’s American and Haitian last names. Trained at Marchesa, Kay Unger, Theory, Marc Jacobs Bona fides FGI Rising Star Award, 2014; Forbes’ 30 Under 30, 2015; CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, 2018 Boss move Jean-Raymond bought out his business partners in 2017 and wholly owns the company. “It was just my name on the door and literally me doing all the work, but there was no upside for me or any reason to keep doing what I was doing. Now I’m doing exactly what I want to do, which is establishing Pyer Moss as more of culture than a clothing brand,” Moss told Fashionista in 2018. Big deal The designer inked a splashy two-year contract with Reebok in 2017. Unexpected cameos Erykah Badu styled his fall ’16 show; Rick Ross sat in his Spring ’17 front row Hails from
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Going deep
KIT KEENAN How did your brand, KIT, come about?
BRITTANY PELTZ, leah + RAE What’s your astrological sign?
Libra. What’s your hometown?
TriBeca, NYC. What’s the aesthetic of Leah + Rae?
Romantic and dreamy, while still down-to-earth. Each piece is designed for movement, play, and dreaming— like my own daughters who are equal part princess and tomboy. I want to celebrate the natural beauty and unapologetic nature of children through my line. They are true to themselves, and I want their inner light to shine through each piece.
It’s a project I started in my freshman year of college. I wanted to make high-quality, trend-resistant pieces defying fast fashion culture. We produce with attention to detail, in small quantities. What have you learned about fashion from your What’s your favorite part about your job?
mom, Cynthia Rowley?
Being a designer allows me to do everything I love and not split my heart in two. I’m most passionate about being a mother and that translates into my home and work life. Family is absolutely everything to me, and I feel so grateful that my girls can be so involved in everything I do.
The biggest lessons my mom has taught me about fashion really come down to business—how to be a girl boss and get s**t done. She’s taught me how to negotiate contracts, pick the right factory for a job, and persevere through cutting samples, even if it is 11 p.m. on a school night and my hands are callused from holding fabric scissors all day. I have never met anyone with the work ethic my mom has. I genuinely don’t even know if she sleeps!
Who are your most-trusted sounding boards?
Definitely my parents and my husband. Their different perspectives keep me grounded and inspired. Where do you see yourself in 10 years?
With as many kids as God will give me! And running my business and a platform to connect mothers and children and allow me to give back in a meaningful way.
Who are your style icons?
Brigitte Bardot, Jane Birkin, Twiggy, Naomi Campbell, and Jackie Kennedy, although the idea of a style icon has definitely changed a lot, with the rise of social media. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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talentScout
The creatives TYLER MITCHELL photographer
Marietta, an Atlanta suburb Hand-picked by Beyoncé to shoot her fourth Vogue cover, for the September 2018 issue History-making claims to fame Mitchell was the first black photographer to ever shoot a Vogue cover in the glossy’s 125-year history, and the third-youngest lensman to do so, after Irving Penn and David Bailey. Education NYU. He credits a short horror film, made in his parents’ home, with scoring him admission. Fashion clients Converse, Marc Jacobs Self-representation Used Instagram, not an agent, to build his portfolio and attract clients Early inspo Spike Jonze’s skateboarding videos Hails from
CARIN BACKOFF photographer
How did you get your start in photography?
I took my first photography class when I was 16. In college, I thought I’d move to Hollywood. I made a skateboarding video for my final project in my first film class, got a D, quit the program, and signed up for photography instead. I met so many cool people in the darkroom, talking about doing it as a career; I was like, yeah, that’s what I’m going to do. What was your big break?
Katie Grand gave me the most incredible, dream-cometrue opportunity to shoot Selena Gomez for LOVE. Katie changed my life. I am so beyond grateful to her. What’s your visual style?
Intimate, playful, colorful.
JORDAN BARRETT photographer
Hails from Byron Bay, Australia Big Break Booked his first modeling job in Tokyo at age 17; signed with IMG at age 18 Follower count 1.1M LATEST SKILL The budding photog shot a 2018 Paper cover modeled for Where should we start?
SOPHIE ELGORT photographer
and I’m capturing moments as they go. It’s not so posed. I feel I really can capture personality like this. You grew up around fashion shoots with your
Did you always aspire to be a photographer?
dad, photographer arthur elgort. What was your
I always did photography for fun; I’d ask my friends to dress up for me and took their pictures from a super young age. But it wasn’t until friends of mine started a fashion brand right when I finished college and asked me to shoot for them that I thought of it as something I could really do as more than just a hobby.
favorite childhood memory on set?
What’s your favorite type of image to shoot?
I love shooting images where it’s more like shooting a film, even if I’m taking stills—when the people I’m photographing are moving around and being themselves,
With Cindy Crawford in Cheyenne, Wyoming, doing pictures at the rodeo for Vogue Italia. My dad tells me that Cindy would take me everywhere with her, and then people didn’t bother her for too long. I still love the rodeo and country music to this day, and those images are some of my favorites. Who’s on your bucket list to shoot?
Speaking of Cindy, I would love to shoot with Kaia Gerber—bring it full circle!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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Big break
JORDAN FOSTER STYLIST
Los Angeles Posh Choate Rosemary Hall boarding school in Connecticut; University of Colorado-Boulder has worked with Lily Aldridge, Ashley Graham, Karlie Kloss, Karolina Kurkova, Joan Smalls, Candice Swanepoel, Kate Upton Career pre-styling Brief stint in the music industry Ongoing gig She’s a partner at La Marque, the consultancy firm founded by longtime Vogue alums Meredith Melling and Valerie Macaulay. Hails from Education
ALEXANDER SALADRIGAS
ADE SAMUEL
photographer
STYLIST
What’s the highlight of your career so far?
The Bronx; of Nigerian descent Buffalo State College; interned at Teen Vogue and W, and worked for stylists Cher Coulter and Simone Harouche Clientele Big Sean, Michael B. Jordan, Letitia Wright, Usher, Justine Skye Big break Her first solo project, styling Yara Shahidi for an Essence cover wordSMITH She coined the term “Black Girl Magic” GLOSSY CAMEOS Vogue, Teen Vogue, W, Glamour, CR SIDE HUSTLE An eponymous shoe line, launched in 2016 Hails from
It was a real honor to give Alek Wek her first solo Vogue [Ukraine] cover in 2018.
Education
Dream subject to shoot?
b a s i a b o w e n s ( 1 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 1 ) ; t y l e r m i t c h e l l ( 1 ) ; R o wa n pa p i e r ( 1 ) ; b a r t p o g o d a ( 1 ) ; m a r k s e l i g e r ( 1 ) ; a l l o t h e r s c o u r t e sy
Jonah Hill. Favorite photog?
Arthur Elgort, especially his work for American Vogue in the early ’90s. Who gave you your big break?
Vogue Ukraine, because they gave me the opportunity to shoot my first Vogue cover.
SASHA SIEM MUSICIAN
Tell us about your musical training!
I played the piano and cello as a child and didn’t enjoy practicing very much, so I started playing around, creating songs. My first song was a setting of Maya Angelou’s “Caged Bird.” My teachers noticed my enthusiasm for songwriting and encouraged me to study composition. I ended up going deep into the study of music, and taking commissions from establishment institutions, like the Royal Opera House and London Symphony. I loved the experience, but after a while I felt an emptiness. I realized I was missing song. I came back to songwriting, and am about to release my third album. How did you develop your style?
A lot of experimenting, messing up, failing, and staying faithful to my truest voice in each moment. I’m growing all the time. My style is hopefully an expression of that. WHAT inspired your new single, “Holey Wholly Holy”?
The song is about hope. It reminds us that no matter how damaged we may feel or what darkness we’ve experienced, a part of us is untouched, whole, holy, even. We can heal our way back to enjoying wholeness. ANY UPCOMING PERFORMANCES PLANNED?
I’m doing a series of “showups” in unexpected venues around the globe. We’ve done Shinjuku Square in Tokyo, a roof in the center of Jerusalem, and the bank, literally, of the River Thames in London with a choir…at dawn!
ROWAN PAPIER photographer Who inspires you?
Tim Walker, David LaChapelle, and Mario Testino; also, Michelangelo and Salvador Dalí. What’s your visual style?
Celebratory, romantic, evolving. What’s on your bucket list, shoot-wise?
A Vogue cover. To work with Versace. A humanitarian project. Anyone of strong cultural significance or positive impact.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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talentScout ROB SMITH RETAILER
How’d you conceive your store, the Phluid Project?
After 30 years in retail at Macy’s, Nike, Victoria’s Secret, and more, I decided to quit my job, put on a backpack, and embrace a global trip. My intention was to honor my individual freedoms and ambitions, without the constraints of a traditional professional environment. While I was away, tapping into my passions, I realized I wanted to create a gender-neutral shopping experience. How did you know that the store was working?
A space like ours is important in today’s climate—the intersection of retail, café, and community space is the future of retail. Phluid allows and encourages community, not just browsing and buying. We’ve found, through market research, experiment, and feedback, that this combination is what many desire and feel was missing in the retail landscape. What are your plans to expand the brand?
The plan for 2019 is focused on digital and wholesale growth. Our intention is to replicate online the success of Phluid’s store model.
JUSTINE FOORD RETOUCHER
How did you get started in the industry?
Tell us about the scope of your work.
I look at retouching through the lens of being an artist; I believe this sets me apart. It’s my gift, an insight that connects me with some of the most creative influencers in our industry. The work we create has developed many iconic campaigns, and even masterpieces in permanent collections in museums, including my own personal artwork. As both a commercial retoucher and an artist, I look for the equilibrium between expressionism and consumerism. There’s this sense that the images we produce now are almost like fast food— do we remember the burger we ate, or the chain? My commercial work is a collaboration between myself, the photographer, and ultimately the magazine or brand. As a retoucher, a project is not unlike a painting—the artist could use acrylics, oils, pastels, watercolors, or charcoal to depict an individual or scene that exists within their imagination. Retouching itself is an art form that is misunderstood, and often receives bad press. Simply, our desire is to bring out the best of our visions.
desire the old-school art of hand-retouching and photography, though with today’s speed and sense of computerized technology. Everything needs to be ready very fast, though at what cost? We seem to live in a disposable world. Tell us a little bit about your art.
As an artist, it’s about being a freedom fighter, a dream maker, and breaking the mold to express oneself. My art allows me to share my personal journey, and let out my pleasure and pain. I walk my path and put my life into my pictures. My traveling exhibition, “Candela,” is a series of my signature mixed-media paintings on photography. It was first exhibited in the Galería Espacio BRUT, Madrid in 2014, then the Fototeca de Cuba museum, with support of the U.K. and U.S. embassies. I became the first solo British female artist to showcase work in Cuba in modern times. You have an incredible eye for color. When did you realize this special talent?
Growing up in rainy and gray England, I always had a thirst for color to brighten up life. When you see a blue sky, it makes you smile, while a gray sky makes you feel sad. If you apply color theory to everyday life, it makes you a happier person. Also, my mother, Caroline, was a gifted ballerina, so I believe there was an artistic sensibility that perhaps was passed down to me.
What does it mean to be a retouching expert in 2019?
What’s your favorite part of your job?
Acceleration: Put your foot on the gas and buckle up, babe. There’s a sense that we’re running a sprint and not a marathon anymore. With the explosion of social media, it’s all about content and what’s trending. There’s an oversaturation of imagery in the world. Ironically, magazines and the new generation of photographers
My vision of color. It gives me the most pleasure in the work that I produce. Tell us about a recent project you’ve loved lately!
We’ve been working on photos for a skincare product that Beyoncé uses while she’s on tour. I get great pleasure from all my projects.
KAT IRLIN photographer
St. Petersburg, Russia Shooting for Tiffany & Co. Follower count 1.5M Education Graduated with a degree in finance before fully pursuing photography Clientele Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., Barneys, and Adidas Hails from Big break
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I grew up in the countryside of Kent, what we call the Garden of England. I knew from a young age that I needed to go somewhere that my creative spirit could thrive. I had an insatiable drive, and I was determined to follow my instinct. At 17, I packed my bags and fled to London. I was accepted into the School of Visual and Performing Arts, City of Westminster, in London. I knew the city had such a revolutionary history for fashion and art, and that it was the perfect place for me to start developing my portfolio and establish my signature and voice as an artist. I met Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, the legendary photographic duo, whilst retouching for Metro Studios in London, and it was love at first sight. We recognized each other’s artistic spirits and began our colorful journey together. It was the beginning of our careers—we grew together.
The multihypHenates LUKA SABBAT NYC and Paris, living that Transatlantic life since age 3 Stylish DNA Dad, Clark Sabbat, is a fashion designer. Other creative relatives Grandma was an interior decorator; mom is an ex-fashion stylist turned chef. Heritage Haitian, Irish, English, and German Ultimate multihyphenate “I don’t believe in titles. I believe you do what you want and find the right people who share your vision,” Sabbat explains on his site of his work as a stylist, creative director, design director, actor, and model. If necessary, his preferred ID: “Creative Entrepreneur exploring all the world has to offer.”
Hails from
TOMMY DORFMAN Education Theater degree from Fordham University’s Lincoln Center campus Breakout role Ryan Shaver, the kid who steals and publishes Hannah’s poem, on 13 Reasons Why (he’s Reason #8, FYI) Fancy feet A professionally trained dancer, Dorfman has performed with the Atlanta Ballet Important ink Dorfman, Selena Gomez, and 13 Reasons Why co-star Alisha Boe got matching semicolon tattoos to represent Project Semicolon, a mental health suicide prevention organization.
CAROLINE VREELAND Los Angeles Scorpio Big Break The singer was an American Idol contestant in 2013 Follower count 348K Famous fashion lineage Greatgranddaughter of Diana Vreeland Thespian moment When she was 8 years old, Vreeland was cast as “the wind” in a school play. Hails from Sign
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INDYA MOORE The Bronx Since “toddlerhood…I just knew I was the furthest thing from a man. I’ve known that my whole life,” Moore told The Cut in 2018. Formative years Moore left home at age 14 and bounced around foster care for a few years, after a childhood of being bullied at school and not accepted by her family or community. Former career Modeling, after dropping out of high school and being discovered on Instagram; landed gigs like Vogue Spain, but didn’t vibe with the industry or find an agency she liked, decided acting was her calling and crowd. Breakthrough role Angel, a sex worker, on Pose, Ryan Murphy’s FX series about New York City’s mid-1980s LGBTQ ball culture and dancers. Unlikely path to Pose Moore was an extra on Baz Luhrmann’s Netflix show The Get Down, thanks to a chance encounter with dancer José Gutiérrez Xtravaganza (the choreographer responsible for Madonna’s “Vogue”). She auditioned for 2017 indie movie-musical Saturday Church, which led her to read for Pose. Hails from
Early revelation
HARI NEF Philly Hood By Air (#RIP) and Eckhaus Latta, Spring ’15 History-making moment The first transgender woman on a major British cover, via her 2016 Elle UK cover Education Columbia University ACTING ACCOLADES Sundance favorite Assassination Nation; Netflix guilty pleasure/Penn Badgley comeback vehicle, You Tribe pride Named one of 2015’s 50 most influential Jewish-Americans by The Forward newspaper Side hustle Penning a sex column for Adult magazine
Hails from
Runway debut
HALIMA ADEN Born in Kenyan refugee camp; moved to St. Cloud, Minnesota; of Somalian descent Sign Virgo Big break First contestant to wear a hijab in the Miss Minnesota Scholarship Pageant; IMG signed her shortly after Follower count 779K Education St. Cloud University Campaign coups American Eagle, Nike, Fenty Beauty, The Modist Runway debut Yeezy, Season 5 Hobbies Netflix marathons; also a UNICEF Ambassador Hails from
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talentScout PATRICK SCHWARZENEGGER Hails from Sign
L.A.
Virgo
While Patrick was born into fame (dad is Arnold, mom is Maria Shriver), he purposefully didn’t use his father’s agents. He started in modeling before landing his first big role in Stuck In Love. Education Patrick went to USC, majoring in business and minoring in cinematic arts. Follower count 1.2M has worked with Hudson Jeans, Tom Ford, VMAN, Vogue España, and L’uomo Vogue Side hustle Patrick is the co-founder of Project360, a philanthropic apparel company. Big Break
Isabelle Chaput and Nelson Tiberghien Hail from
Paris
The partners in life and work, both artists and photographers, run Instagram sensation @youngemperors, filled with matching-outfit photos Also found on @cesarlovealexandre, the pair’s workfocused ’Gram Follower count 21.1K on @youngemperors; 17.2K on @cesarlovealexandre
ISAAC hindin-miller What first brought you stateside?
I was a Kiwi fashion writer, traveling on the international Fashion Week circuit for a few years with dreams of becoming the next Tim Blanks, who’s also a Kiwi. I tried living in Paris first, but found it too difficult to break into the industry. Once I moved to New York in 2011, a series of extremely fortunate events occurred extremely quickly, like Bruce Pask offering me a job writing freelance for The New York Times, GQ picking up my “Like the Boys” series, and Gilt MANual throwing me a few writing jobs. I knew I’d found my home. DJing came a couple years later, and the rest is history. How did you get into the fashion world?
I became extremely obsessed with skate clothing from a really young age. I remember getting a book out of the library about skater style at age 12. I started working in hairdressing salons from the age of 14—that’s what really got me psyched on the industry. I transitioned to working in designer retail stores and workrooms a couple years later, started my own T-shirt brand during university, and worked for fabric merchants and model agencies once I graduated. Then I pitched a story to a New Zealand magazine that had me fly to Sydney Fashion Week and write a daily diary of my experiences. I was 21, extremely naive, and completely, stupidly fearless, and it worked out. I got a full-time job as an assistant editor at a Kiwi magazine after that, launched my Isaac Likes blog, then got publicly fired from my magazine job for breaking a national news story that they believed wasn’t true. It was true, so I hired a lawyer, they settled, and I got a tiny amount of money that allowed to me to fly to Paris Fashion Week. I never looked back. You’re DJing our New Wave party. Any must-listen songs?
“Hit Me Baby One More Time,” by Britney Spears; “Everybody,” by Backstreet Boys; “Gyal You a Party Animal,” by Charly Black; “Loodi,” by Vybz Kartel; “Zeze,” by Kodak Black, Travis Scott, and Offset. YOU’RE launching a FASHION LINE. TELL US MORE!
I started off giving out these i like you! stickers. They made people smile, so I kept it up with T-shirts, hoodies, and socks—and there’s more to come!
CHELLA MAN Central PA; of Chinese-Jewish descent Education The New School; studies V.R. programming ACE ACTIVIST The artist, model, and blogger is vocal on queer and disability issues Newest gig IMG’s first deaf transgender model, signed in September 2018 FOLLOWER COUNT 237K Hails from
CHARLOTTE D’ALESSIO Toronto and L.A. Taurus Big break Discovered at Coachella at age 16 by photographer Bryant Eslava, who posted some bikini and jorts shots of D’Alessio and her pal, Josie, on the ’Gram Education Beverly Hills High School Side project Her Tumblr, titled “between good & evil” Follower count 693K MODELING CAREER PostCoachella fame, D’Alessio quickly scored a modeling contract Hails from Sign
AQUARIA Big Break Won Season 10 of RuPaul’s Drag Race last year Sign Aquarius, unsurprisingly Education Attended the Fashion Institute of Technology for two semesters before dropping out to further pursue drag. Has worked with Jeremy Scott, who tapped Aquaria for his Moschino x H&M campaign, and Nicola Formichetti New gig Dazed Beauty’s entertainment editor, as of October 2018 Editorial love Shot with Inez & Vinoodh for Vogue Italia last year; we hear she has American and French Vogue features in the pipeline Bona fides Vogue UK tapped her for their Next Generation list, and she was named breakout star at the British Fashion Awards
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Creative coupling
KIT BUTLER
The
Oxford, England A retired model-turned-agent was learning to fly a helicopter at the airfield where Butler worked with his uncle, urged Butler to meet with his agency. He got signed immediately. Former hobby Rugby. “I’m actually not allowed to play anymore. My agency has asked me to stop in case I break my nose,” Butler told Vogue UK in 2018. Female model comparison Cara Delevingne Campaign coups Armani, Burberry, Ralph Lauren Runway debut Opening a Coach show Dream gig A Tommy x Gigi–type collab Brood A brother and a sister, both “super academic and book smart” Hails from
Big break
models ADUT AKECH BIOR How would you describe the past year?
It’s been a whirlwind, and every day is a new adventure that I’m excited to go on. I’m so grateful for all the people who have shown me support. Really can’t say thank you enough to everyone in this industry. What are you goals now?
Just to be the best me I can be and work hard for my family’s future. How do you like to relax?
I chill out at home with friends or visit my favorite cafés.
ABBY CHAMPION Hails from Sign
CANDICE HUFFINE Hails from Sign
DYLAN FENDER
The Washington, D.C., area
Libra
Big Break
Hails from:
Being featured on a cover of Vogue Italia
in 2011 Vogue Italia, V Magazine, and Glamour Avid runner and founder of Project Start, an initiative to inspire women to start running follower count 220K personal project Founded activewear line Day/Won Has appeared in
Campaign trail: Fendi, Coach,
Passion
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Palo Cedro, a town in
NorCal Sign: Leo Berluti Editorial cameos: Numero, Vogue
Italia, Icon
ANWAR HADID Malibu, California Cancer Follower count 2.4M Family business Modeling. Perhaps you’ve heard of his big sisters Gigi and Bella and his mom, Yolanda? Campaign coups Zadig & Voltaire, HUGO, Topman Runway debut Moschino Resort ’17
Birmingham, Alabama
Pisces
Follower count
370K
Marc Jacobs Beauty Spring ’18 ads; Vogue Spain Famous BFF Charlotte D’Alessio, with whom she created a YouTube channel, Charlotte & Abby Famous BF Patrick Schwarzenegger, whom she’s dated since 2016 Beauty queens Abby’s sister, fellow model Baskin, was crowned Miss Alabama in 2014; both Abby and Baskin participated in Sports Illustrated’s 2018 Swimsuit Edition casting call. Those Champion genes! Double dates Baskin was linked to Bieber last year. The matchmaker? Bieber’s pal, Patrick. Campaign and cover coups
Hails from
FRAN SUMMERS
Sign
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Yorkshire, England Prada, Chloé, Versace, Coach, Burberry, Moschino, Sacai Catwalk highlights Walked the Couture shows for Chanel, Valentino, Givenchy, Dior, and more Glossy covers Vogue UK, Vogue Italia, Interview Definitely not jaded “When you walk out onto a Valentino catwalk, you hear audible gasps—I spent the whole thing trying not to cry,” Summers told Vogue UK in 2018. Hails from
Campaign coups
ARIEL NICHOLSON Park Ridge, New Jersey Raf Simons hand-picked her for Calvin Klein’s Spring ’18 show as a high school sophomore; she’s also appeared in the brand’s campaigns Early exposure In eighth grade, she appeared in PBS doc Growing Up Trans, discussing how she switched pronouns and began taking estrogen in fifth grade. Glossy work LOVE cover shot by Mert & Marcus; editorials in Vogue and W Academic GOAl: Studying sociology or poli-sci in college Hails from Big break
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SLUGTKSubslug WINNIE HARLOW
CHARLOTTE LAWRENCE
Toronto raised, Jamaican roots Born Chantelle Brown-Young, Winnie is indeed a nod to Winnie the Pooh; the nickname started as a joke among friends and it stuck. Harlow, as in Jean Harlow “I’m a really big Marilyn Monroe fan, but I didn’t want to use Monroe, because that felt cheesy. But Jean Harlow was one of Marilyn’s really big career inspirations,” the model told The Daily. Big break America’s Next Top Model contestant in 2013; cameo in Beyoncé’s 2016 Lemonade video follower count 5.5M Hails from
What’s in a name
L.A. The modelturned-singer-songwriter dropped her first EP, Young, in the fall Famous genes Mom is Scrubs and Cougar Town actress Christa; dad, Bill Lawrence, created both shows Big break V’s January/February cover, shot by Inez & Vinoodh Follower count 562K Famous pals Kaia Gerber, Charlotte D’Alessio, Kit Keenan, Talita von Furstenberg Hails from
Bona fides
LEOMIE ANDERSON Hails from
London
Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in 2015—third time (auditioning) is the charm, right? Follower count 266K Campaign coups Pat McGrath Labs, Fenty Beauty, Redken, Uniqlo, Topshop, Jones New York Runway Debut Marc Jacobs Other major catwalks Chloé, Tom Ford, Moschino, Fenty Puma, Yeezy Side hustle Launched her fashion line, LAPP, in 2016 Next acts Wants to eventually leave the fashion biz to host a documentary and be a TV presenter Proof of persistence
PALOMA ELSESSER Canada. She was raised in L.A., and is of African-American and Chilean-Swiss descent Big break Discovered by Pat McGrath Follower count 197K Education The New School Campaign coups Glossier, Nike, Fenty Beauty, ASOS, H&M Glossy covers Fronted Vogue Arabia with Ashley Graham; shared British Vogue cover with Halima Aden, Adut Akech Bior, and Vittoria Ceretti Runway debut Eckhaus Latta Change agent Utilizes Instagram to powerfully promote body positivity Hails from
JHONA BURJACK Sign
Brazil
Libra
Moschino, Emporio Armani, Philipp Plein, Dolce & Gabbana Follower count 266K Catwalk Cameos
ALTON MASON
DUCKIE THOT
All over—he spent his childhood between 11 European countries Sign Scorpio Big break The Yeezy Season 3 show in 2016 Follower count 153K Brand relationships Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Yeezy Fancy footwork Can really dance, a skill that’s been put to use in some of his modeling gigs Hails from
Melbourne, Australia; her parents escaped Sudan’s Civil War before arriving in Oz Full name Nyadak Thot Big break Came in third place on Season 8 of Australia’s Next Top Model, then moved to Brooklyn to start her career Follower count 1.1M Runway debut Yeezy Spring ’17 Campaign coups L’Oreal Paris, Balmain, Fenty Beauty, Moschino, Oscar de la Renta Hoop dreams If she weren’t modeling, Thot has said she’d want to be a pro basketball player. Hails from
JOSIE CANSECO Weston, Florida Scorpio Big Break Josie made her debut on American Exes reality show Follower count 429K Glossy cameos Teen Vogue, LOVE, Playboy Brand clients Aéropostale, Urban Outfitters Parental lowdown Mom is former Playboy model Jessica Canseco; dad is professional baseball player José Canseco Hails from
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Hails from
LULU TENNEY Lulu was scouted on the street by her nowmanager while walking in Manhattan. Runway standout The Calvin Klein exclusive has opened the brand’s past three shows Also seen in Multiple Vogue Italia shoots, lensed by Steven Meisel; i-D and Vogue China Big Break
MAHANY PERY Rio de Janeiro Phillip Lim Also walked for Dolce Gabbana, Lemaire, Sally LaPointe, Vionnet, Cushnie et Ochs Editorial cameos Elle Brazil, Elle Germany, Vogue Italia, Document Journal, Dazed Campaign trail Adidas Y-3, Fenty Beauty, Givenchy Hails from
Catwalk debut
DENEK K Denek Kania Soul Artist Management Runway roster Jeremy Scott, Moschino, Philipp Plein well gloved The avid boxer punches it out regularly. Full name agency
UNE JONYNAITE
GISELE FOX
Lithuania Une-J Catwalk debut Alexander Wang Also walked for Narciso Rodriguez, Gareth Pugh, Fendi Haute Couture Sportsmax, Cedric Charlier
Hails from
Seattle; her family moved to Italy during her tween years Big break Closed the Spring ’18 Prada show Campaign coups Coach, Versace, and Prada First glossy cover Scored one of Interview’s nine David Sims–lensed March 2018 covers, featuring the season’s emerging models Runway debut Seattle Fashion Week Renaissance woman Dabbles in photography, video editing, and knitting, among other pursuits party trick Bending her fingers backward at a 90-degree angle…ouch, girl! FIRSTVIEW ( 6 ) ; g e t t y i m a g e s ( 6 ) ; PATRICKMCMULLAN . COM ( 2 ) ; ALL OTHERS COURTESY
GUTTER CREDITS t k
Hails from
Nickname
Editorial cameos
AnOther Magazine, L’Officiel Russia Campaign trail
Balenciaga, Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang
PRIMROSE ARCHER Worcestershire, England Grew up one of 10 siblings on a working farm, working daily with chickens and cattle Muse to Steven Meisel, who’s working with Archer on a slew of projects still under wraps Covers and campaigns Vogue UK’s December cover and a Marc Jacobs campaign, both shot by Meisel Hails from
Rustic roots
MICHi DELANE BOMI YOUN Seoul Walking in a JW Anderson show
Hails from Big break
Other catwalk
Couture shows for Giambattista Valli and Jean Paul Gaultier; RTW for Kenzo, Moschino, Valentino
appearances
Asheville, North Carolina Mickey, as in Mickey Mouse Big break Scouted at a music festival Runway work Chloé, Chanel, Valentino, Hermès, Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Jacquemus, Alberta Ferretti, Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Victor & Rolf, Stella McCartney, Emilio Pucci Editorial cameos Vogue Brazil, Marie Claire Italy, Elle Italia, Harper’s Bazaar Brazil, Numero, CR Fashion Book Hails from
name is Pronounced
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talentScout
lacy redway hair artist
The backstage pros
Jamaica Tessa Thompson, Sarah Paulson, Amandla Stenberg, Diane Kruger, Karlie Kloss TRESS specialty Plaits so great, they’ve got their own hashtag, #braidsbylacyredway HAILS FROM
Celeb clientele
KEVIN HUGHES hAIR artist
Long Island, as one of 12 children Studied fashion buying and merchandising, attended cosmetology school, and apprenticed for talents like Danilo, Robert Vetica, and Peter Gray. Major gig Moroccanoil artistic director since 2017; he began working with the brand in 2011 CELEB Clientele Emily Blunt, Sara Sampaio, Bryce Dallas Howard, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley Editorial coif work Vogue Beauty, Elle, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar, and L’Officiel. Runway work Oscar de la Renta, Veronica Beard, Marchesa, Monique Lhuillier, Zac Posen, Carolina Herrera, and Altuzarra Hails from Education
makeup artist
When did your interest in makeup begin?
I’ve always had an interest in makeup and loved anything creative but never had the confidence to pursue it. One of my roommates pushed me to go for it. What has been your favorite editorial to date?
Ariana Grande in Elle—natural glam and light, long hair.
DANIEL AVILAN makeup artist Hails from
Guadalajara, Mexico Jared Leto, Ewan McGregor, Alexander
Celeb clients
Which model do you have the most fun working on?
Skarsgård
Gigi Hadid, one of my first clients when I moved to L.A. We clicked instantly. She’s one of the most kind-hearted, funny, inspirational women in my life.
Elle Mexico, Vogue Latin America, Vogue Mexico, Vogue Korea, Marie Claire Latin America, and more Editorial work
BRYCE SCARLETT hair artist
San Diego Natalie Portman, Margot Robbie, Gigi Hadid, Brie Larson, and Lily Aldridge Brand pair-ups Christian Dior, Victoria’s Secret, Mansur Gavriel, Audemars Piguet Editorial coif work Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, and V Major gig Moroccanoil brand ambassador Hails from
Celeb clients
VINCENT OQUENDO makeup artist
Major gig The makeup artist works frequently with Maybelline Celeb clientele Gigi and Bella Hadid, Kate Bosworth, Karlie Kloss, Hailee Steinfeld, Ashley Graham, Hailey Baldwin, Cara Delevingne, Kendall Jenner, Emma Roberts, Nicola Peltz, Ashley Benson, Elsa Hosk, and Sara Sampaio Brand pair-ups Stella McCartney, Nike, Marc Jacobs, Yigal Azrouël Photog and glossy relationships Has worked with talents like Alexei Hay, Roe Ethridge, Marilyn Minter, and Ben Watts, and for magazines like Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, i-D, L’Officiel, V, and W
JOSEPH CARRILLO makeup artist
When did you realize thAT you wanted to be a makeup artist?
I’ve played with makeup since I was about 14; I realized at the age of 23 that I could really do this as a job and make money and fulfill my dreams of creating art. What was one of your favorite shoots to work on so far?
A story I did and produced for Vogue Mexico with Elsa Hosk. I was re-creating a Hitchcock vibe, and it came out so spectacular.
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PATRICK TA
The social media mavericks CAROLINE DAUR Hails from Sign
Hamburg, Germany
Pisces
Caroline began posting her outfits on Instagram as a college student, and quickly attracted a massive following. Follower count 1.8M Education Studied business in school Clientele Vogue Japan, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Mac, and Levi’s Quirk “I wear necklaces all day and all night. I never take them off, ever!” Daur tells The Daily. Career beginnings
Making funny videos with his friends, thus becoming a Vine superstar Sign Libra Claim to fame A high-energy Internet sensation, with catchphrases worth stealing Follower count 690K Has worked with Dior and HR magazine Big break
GRACE ATWOOD
THE SUITED RACER
Where does the name The Stripe come from?
NYC Signatures Maintains complete anonymity. Oh, and really likes motorcycles. Sign Still trying to figure that out. Education We keep asking. Follower count 146K Favorite meal We’ll get back to you on that… Typical get-up His iconic mask, paired with a motorcycle and classic menswear.
It started as Stripes & Sequins—back in 2010, it was protocol for bloggers to name blogs after two arbitrary things, preferably a food or beverage item and a fabric print or texture. I had no idea my blog would become “a thing” when I started it. It evolved; five years after launching, I felt lame sitting next to editors from Vogue and The Daily at events, telling them about “Stripes & Sequins.” After a lot of deliberation, I settled on The Stripe: a nice transition away from the old name, without going in an entirely different direction.
Hails from
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KEMIO
What’s the hardest part of your gig?
Accounting and contracts—the boring but important stuff. Actually, explaining to people that blogging is a real job, I’m not independently wealthy, I can’t have three-hour lunches, and I work really hard. Especially explaining it while dating—men don’t get it! Cindy Crawford follows you. What was your reaction when you got that notification?
I just about died. I met her at an event for her skincare line and we hit it off. She was so gracious and friendly. The best part? She’s pretty active—she regularly likes and comments on things!
MOTI ANKARI Brooklyn Education Studied accounting at Baruch College to please his parents, then transferred to FIT Early start Ankari started his fashion blog, The Metro Man, as a college freshman REsume wild card Interned for Lizzie Grubman, NYC publicist infamous for…well, you know. Seeing double Has a twin brother, Ami Hails from
LAINY HEDAYA What’s your background?
Middle Eastern, Eastern European…a mix of it all! How do you explain your job to people?
I produce content for brands. How much time do you spend on Instagram a day?
On average, four hours. Could be all day, though. What’s the biggest misconception about being an influencer?
That what I do is easy! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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RealDeal
new wave
mentor As the mastermind behind some of pop culture’s most iconic fashion moments—remember Lil’ Kim’s 1999 VMAs lewk?—Misa Hylton has made her mark in history. Now, she’s come on board as MCM’s global creative partner to show a new generation how it’s done. The Daily sat down with this fashion icon to rap about her prolific career and how she plans to leave her mark.
How did you get into the fashion world? I’ve always been a creator. I love fashion, I love music, I love hip-hop, I love wardrobe—that was my natural gift. I was styling my friends, I was styling my family, anybody. I got into hair because that was where I could express my creativity. I started [professionally] when I was in high school. At the time, I was dating Sean [Combs]; he was an intern at Uptown Records. He was working with [the artist] Father MC and then he got promoted to A&R director, and the first group [he signed] was Jodeci. Dating Sean put me in the place and the space where I could work with these talents. I would assist him and help him come up with images. The music scene in the ’90s was pretty incredible… Music had been changing. I had this opportunity to work with an up-and-coming female wrapper, Lil’ Kim. She had lyrics that would blow your mind; she was very risqué and her delivery was strong and powerful. She owned the beats that she rapped over. She was this powerhouse, and yet so tiny—she’s only 4' 11''. I took it to the next level. My career has been a journey of creating looks that have not been seen before, like Mary J. Blige and the combat boots, the tennis skirts, the hockey jerseys, the baseball caps.… Young people were able to see themselves in her, and you had her singing over these hip-hops tracks. It was just dope all the way around. Have you ever thought about directing a music video? No, maybe that could be next. With Lil’ Kim, her image was risqué, but she was fun and lovable. She needed to be over-the-top, but also high-end. Kim loved Gucci, Louis
Vuitton, and Chanel, like most young girls did. When we worked together, she crossed over to MTV, which was a big deal back then for a female rapper. Then she got her M.A.C campaign, and we went to all the [fashion] shows. It was a really special time. Do you and Kim still keep in touch? I spoke to her yesterday! Kim’s look at the 1999 MTV Video Music Awards was a global sensation. Did you see that coming? Absolutely not. Missy Elliott actually gave me the idea, believe it or not. I thought it was a badass idea. If Kim was going to have one breast exposed, I wanted it to be really pretty and ornate. I got Indian bridal fabric, and
we went softer with the pastel lavender. It was a custom design, and it fit her perfectly. Did MTV have any problems with the look? They didn’t. When she stepped onto the red carpet, she owned the night. She turned into Miss America! Cut to a few decades later, and you’re still very much in the game. You recently worked with Beyoncé. How did that come about? I created a custom MCM piece for her. Her stylist, Zerina Akers, contacted me—she had seen some custom design pieces I had done for Big Daddy Kane, Rapsody, and 9th Wonder with MCM. She needed one of those jackets for Beyoncé, and so we did a full look.
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BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
DREAM TEAM (Left) Hylton has designed custom pieces for (from left) Big Daddy Kane, Rapsody, and 9th Wonder. (Right) Hylton (with Bevy Smith) was named MCM’s global creative partner last year.
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i have always been a natural teacher. I’m a mother, and I love sharing wisdom and empowering people, especially younger people.”
What was it for? Zerina calls me one day and she’s like, “Beyoncé rocked that s**t. It was the best look, and she killed it in the Louvre!” I still don’t know what for. I told her I was so glad she wore it, and I was happy she loved it. A week or two later, I’m on my Instagram just scrolling through and [the video] “Apes**t” was on, and there she was in the MCM video. They used her in that look to promote the single, so it was on eight Times Square billboards alone. And train stations, buses, telephone booths…it was unbelievable. Tell us more about your role at MCM. I started working with the brand last April as global creative partner. [SVP, Global Digital Marketing & Communications] Rita Shukhman hired me to create several custom pieces for Big Daddy Kane, Rapsody, and 9th Wonder. Now I’m focused on my Misa X MCM capsule, and I continue to create for celebrities, television, and advertising opportunities. How’s it going? It’s amazing. What I love about working with MCM most is their integrity, their connection to hip-hop, and the heritage of the company. I love working here, because they give me the space and the freedom. They believe in me, and I believe in them. You’ve been at the cusp of new talent for a while now. Who are you excited about these days? My son [Justin Dior Combs], who is an artist—and Niko Brim, Post Malone, Billie Eilish, Teyana Taylor, Cardi B, of course, and H.E.R. Then on the design side, I love Duckie Confetti, Magnus Juliano, and Pyer Moss. You have a documentary coming out in April! Tell us more. The Remix: Hip Hop x Fashion takes us on a journey of the influence of women in hip-hop, fashion, and also AfricanAmerican creativity. As the guide of the film, I get to
working it (From top) Lil’ Kim ruling the red carpet at the 1999 MTV Video Music Awards; Hylton with her son, Justin Dior Combs.
share my story of a lifetime of work and what it was like for me not only to have lived in the ’90s but to play such an important part in a lot of the iconic looks that we all remember from that time. We also get to understand how streetwear is now ruling the runways. Hip-hop started as a subculture, and now, it’s everywhere you turn, even on commercials. I’m super excited about it. Tell us about the Misa Hylton Fashion Academy! I reached a point where I was ready to get back in it in a powerful way. I have always been a natural teacher. I’m a mother, and I love sharing wisdom and empowering people, especially younger people. I decided to start an academy to teach aspiring fashion stylists the skills they need to get into the business and become educated. I started it in 2012 along with my co-founder Jai Hudson, and we came up with a curriculum. It’s a 10-month program with 15–20 students per cycle. It’s intimate. My students have had a high success rate. I’m excited to say that we are expanding this fall, and we’re offering courses in fashion technology, branding, and streetwear. You’re also a life coach. How did that career call to you? Misa Hylton has always been a creative. Misa Hylton has always cared about helping others. In another life I would’ve been a psychologist. You work that closely with artists to create images, they have to trust you; you become very close. This is not an easy business to navigate. I decided that I wanted to go ahead and get certified, because it was time—it was just a calling for me. My philosophy is that we have the ability to create the life that we desire. It’s a passion to help people through challenges and roadblocks and help them achieve their goals. How would you like to be remembered? As a kind, courageous person who took chances with her creativity—as someone who always reached back to pull someone forward. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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ULTIMATE INFLUENCE She’s one of the most well-known and successful media stars in the influencer world—so isn’t it about time we all got schooled about Danielle Bernstein? The Daily sat down with the 26-year-old businesswoman to unearth her secrets and find out how she’s just getting started. BY EDDIE ROCHE
How did you get your start? I was born in Great Neck, New York, on Long Island. I had a nice upbringing. I was an athlete; I played sports. I was always into fashion, but in more of a “I love shopping” way. I didn’t think it would become a career. How did you end up at FIT? I first attended the University of Wisconsin-Madison as a retail major, and then I realized that I really needed to be in the city if I wanted to pursue fashion as a career. I transferred to FIT in my sophomore year, and that’s when I started (the blog] WeWoreWhat. I was walking around campus, and I thought, “Wow, everyone dresses really well here! I would love to be able to show my friends back in Wisconsin what we could wear to school.” In Madison, we were wearing sweatpants and UGGs every day. I picked up a camera and taught myself how to use it. A year into it, I flipped the camera on myself and started photographing my style, which is when [WeWoreWhat] switched over to a personal style blog. Blogging was not an industry then—I was
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just doing it for fun. I thought I was going to be an event planner or do something in nightlife, and then, I eventually realized this could be something. Word on the street is that you told your dad to give you six months to get your career off the ground. How did you spend that time? I networked like crazy. I owe a big part of my career success to being a fearless networker. I met people, took meetings, got advice, and went to every event that I could possibly go to. I would pull [samples] from brands and shoot content for them to show them what I could do, and then eventually, I would charge for that. I signed with the talent division at Next Model Management, and my agent was Jennifer Powell; she ended up leaving to be inhouse with me. That’s when I really started getting contracts, and Refinery29 dubbed me one of the “next big style bloggers.” Was Instagram around then? Instagram had just started. The first thing I ever posted was a picture of my 18thbirthday cake. I don’t remember when the transition happened, but it became a platform to show what I was wearing. Do you ever look back on your own photos and wonder, “What was I thinking?” Of course! I’m critical of what I was wearing, the way I filtered my photos.… I went through the phase where I had ashy gray hair, and I’m like, “Holy s**t, what was I thinking?” But it’s all part of your natural growth. It’s really nice that some of my followers today have been there since the beginning in 2010. How do you capture people’s attention? People always say, “What’s the secret?” and I always say that my product is an example of organic growth. I was an authentic young woman, living in New York City, trying to make it like everyone else, and I was showing that in a really raw and real way. So I think people could relate to me. My blog is a mix of the relatable and the aspirational. I don’t only write about my style. I talk about where I’m eating, going out, vacationing, I offer business advice.… Sharing in that authentic way is how I gained such a good relationship with my audience. What was it like to see your brand grow exponentially? Hitting a million followers was definitely a goal from early on. When I was at about 700,000 followers, I was interviewed by Harper’s Bazaar about the way bloggers make money. I was one of the first to publicly talk about sponsored content—I revealed the average amount of money an influencer could make on a post. It was picked up the next day by between 15 and 30 different publications—everyone from
On @WeWoreWhat, Bernstein curates an aesthetic vision that resonates with lovers of fashion, beauty, and design.
With more than 2 million followers, @WeWoreWhat is among the buzziest brands in the influencer world.
Forbes to Business Insider to Elle—and I saw a jump of 200,000 followers overnight. Why do you think that financial matters were so hush-hush? It was and still really is so undefined. We’re writing the rule book as we go—me and the original bloggers who really started this industry. Now, there are laws and regulations, but it was all trial and error in the beginning. We weren’t sure how people would respond to talking about [financial matters] publicly. I had no fear—I could let someone know I’m being paid to post this because it’s still a product that I fully believe in. I won’t post about a product that I won’t get behind. Do you consider yourself an entrepreneur? Yes, 100 percent. I don’t consider myself just a blogger. Now I have more than just my blog. I have a swim line, a line of overalls, I’m an investor in more than six different companies where I sit on the board of advisors, and I’m creating a tech company right now
that I haven’t really talked about yet. Do blogs matter in the age of Instagram? It’s so funny—just this morning I posted “Hey, I want to re-do my site. Can WordPress experts DM me?” And on my next slide I said, “By the way, just curious how many of you still look at blogs versus Instagram?” It was 10 percent said they look at blogs, 90 percent said only Instagram. I was blown away by that—I thought it would actually be even more than that. I haven’t updated my blog design in five years. I’m going to re-do it just so that I have a more professional platform, but Instagram is my business. How do brands know the return they’re getting when they pay you to post? The ROI is hard to measure. Your return on your investment is a combination of your exposure and the actual sales. If you’re being exposed to 2 million people, a majority of those 2 million people are a demographic of shoppers—they’re consumers, so you will see a certain number of sales. But you’ll also see that your brand gets exposure, which over time will equate to sales. I’ve had brands e-mail me, “That product [you posted about] sold out for us.” I posted a pair of overalls two days ago that was a restock of my overalls, and we did $50,000 that day in sales. So if I was to pay myself $10,000, which is my
Come hear Danielle talk on The Daily’s panel about fashion inf luencers on February 25, at Coterie. RSVP@dailyfrontrow.com
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usual sponsored post fee, $50,000 would be the return on my investment. If you have a million followers, what is a reasonable rate for a brand to pay? It varies, because it also depends on engagement. But I think a million followers is $5K a post, 2 million followers is $10K a post, and then Instagram stories are usually half of that. But I think Instagram stories are now more valuable than actual static posts, because of the swipe up and linking capabilities. An Instagram post may get 20,000 likes, but an Instagram stories gets more than 100,000 views. Yes, one lives forever and one lives for 24 hours, but I think that Instagram stories might be more effective for brands. Do you make your Instagram stories as curated as your posts? Not at all. My Instagram is the editorial version of my life. My Instagram story is more like the reality-TV version. Which do you prefer? Stories! It’s more authentic and real and raw. I started a new series called “Get Dressed With Me,” and that’s created the highest engagement out of any of my stories that I do. I take my followers through the process of how I get dressed in the morning. Tell us more about the collections you’ve launched. I have a swim line with Onia and a line of overalls, which was completely self-funded. It was a big learning curve, but I’ve done it completely on my own with the partners that I brought on, and it’s been a labor of love. We’ve had three successful swim collections, and for Fall ’19, I’ll be launching my own line as WeWoreWhat Swim. A lot of publicists hate influencers. What kind of feedback do you get from the industry? It’s oversaturated at the moment. Everyone and their mother wants to be their own boss and use Instagram as a business. It’s hard to weed out the good ones. What is your five-year plan? My three-year plan is to continue to grow my brands, introduce new ones, and to keep investing and becoming a strategic partner in start-ups, companies, and brands that I believe in from an early stage. Getting personal…Do you find that men are threatened by you because you’re a strong woman? I date older, so yes. I don’t think I could ever date someone my own age. I’m 26 years old, but I’m well beyond my years. My last boyfriend was 10 years older than me. What are your passions besides fashion? I hip-hop dance, ride horses, travel, write. Do you have a book in the works? Not yet! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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VISIONQuest
STUDIO SUBLIME Federico Pignatelli transformed a pier on the Hudson River into Pier59 Studios, one of New York’s most important fashion spaces. THE DAILY caught up with the maverick to learn how he made it happen, why model’s rights are so important to him, and why VR is the future of fashion advertising. Let’s go back to the beginning. How did you discover the space on the Hudson that would become Pier59 Studios? The building was a huge investment in the Meatpacking District and West Chelsea, an area of Manhattan that was way different than it is now. It was really an abandoned part of the city that smelled like meat from dead animals. That’s why I had the opportunity to get that huge space, and that neighborhood would [eventually] flourish to become the most fashionable area of Manhattan. I knew that it was going to be an area of great development because of the type of buildings [going up] and the proximity to the West Side Highway. [When] I bought my place in Soho in the late ’80s, it was not really the place that it became later. I took a similar bet [with Pier59 Studios], and took that huge, abandoned space where they used to keep salt in the building for the snow. What was the studio situation in New York City like at that time? Back then, the landscape was essentially a multitude
of spaces transformed into studios—mostly garages or parking lots. There were also photo shoots happening in lofts. Basically, there was nothing in Manhattan that was professionally designed as a photo studio. The fashion advertising industry was growing dramatically, and I saw a future in it. Pier 59 was just a shell, essentially: a large empty space, wide and tall. Pier59 Studios was conceived entirely for photo shoots: large spaces, large studios, high ceilings, large cycloramas, and very high electrical power. What other ways is Pier59 Studios unique? It was the first to provide everything—both space and equipment. The efficiency of working at Pier 59 Studios is dramatically increased, because there is no wait time. Another thing that we did was extend the shooting days to seven days a week instead of five. All the studios were operating Monday to Friday, like a normal business. If a client needed to shoot on the weekends, then they would open the doors and charge fees that were 50 to 100 percent higher than normal days. Instead I launched a concept that the studio has to be open seven days a
week for clients, and all at the same rate. I also launched an in-house restaurant. What’s your growth strategy for 2019 and beyond? I definitely want to elevate the level of augmented reality [AR] and virtual reality [VR] technology, which will have an incredible impact in the advertising world in the next few years. I would say it is a revolution that is as important as the Internet revolution of the late ’90s and early 2000s. AR and VR, along with artificial intelligence [AI], will radically change this business and elevate technology in the production of advertising campaigns. I launched the VR Accelerator division to absorb all these new technologies, [and] help clients understand this transition, and help them adopt these technologies. They will be fundamental to the success of their advertising campaigns. What excites you personally about AR and VR? It is a dimension that is new! I’ll give an example: With this technology, we can have a virtual mirror where the customers can see what a garment will look like on them, without actually undressing. The concept of a traditional store is going to change dramatically. There is a huge amount of money invested in retail on stores and spaces. VR is going to change the landscape, so clients will be able to save a lot of money. Instead of having thousands of shops worldwide, certain brands will only have flagship stores. Through a combination of AR and VR, people all over the world can navigate these flagships, and feel as if they’re touching the items they’re looking at. It will even feel like you’re wearing it. As Amazon has changed the landscape of retail, AR, VR, AI, and machine programing will revolutionize the advertising business. We want to be on the forefront of this new phenomenon. How is your business structured? Art & Fashion Group is my holding company, which is 100 percent owned by me, and it owns 100 percent of Pier59 Studios, Industry Models, and the Industry Artists MGMT, which reps photographers, stylists, hairstylists
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RUNWAY REPORT A Hellessy look on the runway at Pier59 Studios.
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as amazon has changed the landscape of retail, ar, vr, ai, and machine programming will revolutionize the advertising business.” and makeup artists, and more. Increasingly, we are becoming a production house where clients can find all they need, from the space to the talent. The clientele has consolidated in large groups. Look at LVMH, for instance— they are buying out a lot of brands. Same thing for Condé Nast—they own hundreds of publications. We’re talking about large corporations that desire to deal with one entity instead of dealing with 10 or 20 for a production. Last year, you launched the Model’s Bill of Rights— why did you create this manifesto? [The modeling industry] has grown dramatically, but it is entirely unregulated. Models are being taken advantage of in many ways, because they are young dreamers. Foreign models aren’t always attuned to the legalities of work permits. These young people are attracted by the glamour of this business, and they sign contracts with the modeling agencies without even knowing and understanding what they’re signing. What are some of the ways they are being taken advantage of ? Payments are an important thing: Models go to work, they do a job, but they never know when they’re going to get paid. Agencies that get paid by clients don’t say anything to the models, and basically, they pay the models whenever they want. The models have no control whatsoever. Same thing with expenses—agencies overcharge models with expenses, left and right. The Model’s Bill of Rights outlines that payments [should be made] no later than 60 days after the job. These are all things that I am trying to correct, including the fact that modeling agencies in the U.S. have been bringing overseas models into the country with a tourist visa. When a girl goes to work without a working visa, she can get arrested. She can spend time in jail, found guilty by a court, and expelled from the country for up to 10 years. The modeling career is not a long one, so if she’s expelled for five to 10 years, her career is over. Has the industry responded well to your ideas? I’ve received a lot of praise from models and agencies, because some agencies were already operating in compliance [with the ideas outlined in the Model’s Bill of Rights], and they are tired of seeing others not doing that. It is really a burden to the agencies that operate fairly to compete with agencies that operate unfairly. I’m doing something that is good for the business, and I’m doing it for the companies that operate properly. Last April, you banned several modeling agencies from Pier59… There are four that are banned: Wilhelmina, Elite Models U.S.A. (which is different from Elite International),
HAT ON A Eugenia Kim presentation at Pier59 Studios.
SHOWTIME The runway scene at Zero + Maria Cornejo.
Major Model Management, and Nomad MGMT. Was that a difficult decision for you, or did you really stand by your manifesto? I wanted to stand by it. Obviously, this goes against my own interest because if I’m blacklisting companies that aren’t operating fairly then I’m hurting my own business. But I prefer to lose business than to do business with people who I don’t see doing the right thing. I’m strong enough to be able to make this choice, and I am doing it at my own cost, on my own skin, to make sure that this business wakes up to the realities of change, of improvement. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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FASHIONMaverick
With a customerfirst mentality and a commitment to wearability, L’Agence is one of fashion’s biggest success stories in recent years. CEO and creative director Jeff Rudes explains the mission behind the brand’s success. BY ASHLEY BAKER
You launched L’Agence in 2008 with a Los Angelesmeets-Paris aesthetic. What inspired that direction? A founding partner, Margaret Maldonado, was L’Agence’s designer at the time, and she had a really strong point of view. Yes, it had a Parisian attitude, because it was very styled and sexy, with a little bit of an edgy feel. We spent time in New York and France, looking at different things these girls were wearing on the street. Honestly, Margaret was a super talent, and she was able to put this together. Ron Herman, the iconic merchant, is another partner, and I was part of the equation, too. We all had an influence on what L’Agence should look like. How has that concept developed over the past 11 years? We created a look that the girls want to wear from day to night, and that evolved into jeans and what works around the jean, whether it’s a T-shirt, a silk blouse, a cotton blouse, a jacket, or a sweater. There are also beautiful spaghetti-strapped dresses, jumpsuits, and much more in the collection, but the strong message goes back to the jean in a chic and sophisticated way. What are some of your best sellers? Denim and blouses are making up around 80 percent of our business, which is really booming now. All categories that we’re shipping are selling. There’s not one category that is weak, because we’re driven to creating product
that sells. We make clothes for real people. Recently, at our Madison Avenue store, a customer from South Carolina who never knew about our brand came in and spent $3,800. There was so much [product] that she stayed in the store for two hours and really shopped. It’s a very, very simple concept. We don’t do runway, we don’t do tricky clothing, or extra zippers; there’s none of that that goes on in the collection. So how big is the scale of the L’Agence business these days? We are in between 270 to 300 stores in America. And we are just penetrating the international market; we’ve got about 40 [accounts] internationally, but we just reopened Europe for fall of this year. We reopened Milan and Paris back in September. What’s your starting point for each season? I tell the design team, “Let’s evolve the customer.” If we gave her something last season that she bought and really liked, what is she going to be looking for next? If she’s buying silk blouses from us season after season, how do we evolve her? We can’t keep it stale— she has to be excited and interested and curious about what’s next. We’re always looking at the customer first. What’s she buying? What is she doing? Where is she wearing it? We also have a lot of feedback with our stores. We have our own [sales] specialists, so we have information from the selling floors weekly. We’re pulling a lot of data to really make us smart.
The brand is a favorite among influencers. Why do you think that they’re so drawn to what you’re doing? It’s sophisticated, it’s chic, and it makes women look great. We make sophisticated clothing that is wearable. It’s kind of like Armani in the ’80s—there was nothing tricky about it. But he dominated the business with sophisticated, beautiful clothing that made women and men look really smashing. Elegant, beautiful—that’s what we do. If we don’t make women look chic and beautiful, and it doesn’t look good on a model, we didn’t really hit our mark. Do you see social media as being a sales driver or is it more of a marketing play? There’s a lot of debate about this in the industry right now. I think it’s both. Everybody has to shop, right? Where do they get their inspiration from? [Social media] is a big driver, but it might not be an immediate converter. When people are seeing the brand again and again, and they like the clothing, they will end up in that brand’s space and buy something. How has your marketing strategy with the brand evolved over the years? Today, we’re very digital-, social-, and influencer-driven, although we do some print [advertising]. For a fashion brand, everything is about images today, and it’s all about looking cool. You don’t want to look at an image that someone’s going to pass right over. Today, I see a lot of
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VISION QUEST L’Agence’s Jeff Rudes
master of chic
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today, i see a lot of fashion that’s a little bit trendy, and not looking so great. there are things going on in the industry that will have some sort of correction.
fashion that’s a little bit trendy, and not looking so great. There are things going on in the industry that will have some sort of correction. I can’t shop men’s [departments] for the life of me, because I don’t wear sweatpants. That’s not my look. I know it’s really thriving in the industry, and I don’t find anything attractive about it. Look at what influencers can do—they can dictate a look. So it’s safe to say we’re not going to see you in a grandpa sneaker? I’m more into boots or, in the summertime, loafers without a sock and a jean cut above my ankle. I’m simple. I have a uniform. What’s the most exciting feedback you’ve received recently about L’Agence? Ever since we started doing presentations, we’ve been reviewed by Vogue, and both [reviews] were stellar. And we also get great feedback from the market, too. That’s a big milestone for the business. What is your recipe for success? The important thing is to evolve the customer and keep her interested and excited about the brand. If we didn’t do that, then we didn’t do our job. Sometimes, what happens in the design room can be dangerous—you can get sent in a new direction. You get too caught up on trend, and you take a direction, and it’s really not what the DNA of the company is about. If the customer gets confused, it can impact the momentum. I would never let that happen.
LOOKS WE LOVE L’Agence’s Fall ’19 collection is infused with high-impact jackets, versatile shirting, and covetable silks and prints.
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STYLESensation HITTING THE STREETS Erica Hanks takes on New York City.
Erica Hanks has made a name for herself as the go-to stylist in the sports world. She gives us the scoop on why Charlotte, North Carolina, should be on your fashion radar.
Team Player
How did you get into styling? I’ve always been interested in fashion. Growing up as a kid in Florida, I was always making over my mom; I worked retail jobs in high school and college. It wasn’t until after I got married and had kids that I said, “I need to figure out how to monetize this, because I’m really good at it.” I started writing for little blogs and magazines here and there, and then one day, somebody needed an editorial to be styled, and I was like, “I’ll do it!” It was really effortless. That was about eight years ago. A year later, I was picked up by an agency to be represented for commercial and editorial styling. I started doing that for companies like Nike, Lowe’s Home Improvement, and Off Broadway Shoe Warehouse. Then a client reached out about personal styling. Charlotte is a huge sports hub—we have the NBA, the NFL, Olympians, NASCAR drivers—and yet no one was really servicing the sports industry. I dove in and started making connections. One thing led to another, and now we have a really good roster of about 25 personal
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charlotte is a huge sports hub—we have the nba, the nfl, olympians, nascar drivers—and yet no one was really servicing the sports industry.
clients in the sports industry. I still do occasional editorial and commercial shoots, but the majority of it is sports—special events, game-day style, that sort of thing. Who were some of the first people you styled? I’ve been working with Kevin Harvick, who’s a NASCAR champion; Thomas Davis from the Carolina Panthers; Trai Turner from the Panthers; Gerald Henderson from the Portland Trail Blazers; Captain Munnerlyn from the Panthers; Graham Gano from the Panthers; Jimmie Johnson, a race car driver. I’m starting to work with Fox Sports, handling all of the NFL and NASCAR analysts out of their Charlotte office. I’m also going to be working with Jeff Gordon, a retired race car driver. A lot of your clients aren’t sample size. How do you find clothes that fit? My clients don’t wear loans, and their sizes range from XS all the way up to XXXL. A lot of their looks are madeto-measure and custom. I work really closely with a lot of brands to do special pieces. We work really closely with Gucci and Thom Browne. Would you say that a lot of your clients are getting more interested in high-fashion brands? Yes, especially my NFL clients. We pull Fendi, Balenciaga…they love the big design houses. I have clients who are ambassadors for Nike, and they really love to look sharp. And we do special things with those brands, whether it’s doing a private collection preview, having them be able to order pieces before anybody else, to give them that “in.” How do you encourage clients to discover new areas of fashion they might not have otherwise tried? It’s just seeing how far they want to push the envelope, how far they want to really stretch their style, but keeping within their personal brand. I start with baby steps. I can’t overwhelm somebody. I’ll introduce a couple things that are in their wheelhouse, but then
maybe bring in some wild cards. Some clients started out in Banana Republic, and now they’re wearing Thom Browne, Zegna, and Brunello Cucinelli. What brands do you find most exciting right now, both for your clients and yourself ? I love finding new, up-and-coming, contemporary designers. One of my favorites right now is Rejina Pyo. I really love her architectural lines and her modern silhouettes. I love Monse, and I’m still really loving Gucci. Prada is doing some great stuff in menswear right now. Common Projects sneakers are a great way to get clients into a sneaker that’s a bit more sleek and sophisticated. How would you describe your personal aesthetic? Very tailored and classic, with a funky spin. I’ll wear a really classic coat with an out-of-this-world shoe. What was the Charlotte fashion scene like when you first moved there? I moved to Charlotte 12 years ago, when a Neiman Marcus had just opened. It’s funny to see how Charlotte has evolved. Twelve years ago, people were wearing pearl necklaces, Vera Bradley, Lilly Pulitzer—super conservative and Southern. Now, people want to take risks! I style the wives and girlfriends [of existing clients] as well, so it’s fun to see someone do a really killer stiletto with a ripped jean. What sort of direction do your female clients give? They say, “We don’t want to look like everybody else in town,” so that’s why I make connections with stores outside of the city. I’ve worked closely with Bergdorf, Barneys, and Saks in New York. I’m constantly in local boutiques to see if we can pair their things with pieces from New York. Are there any designers or local boutiques we should know about? Capitol, which carries everything from Zimmermann and Sally LaPointe to Marc Jacobs and Jonathan Cohen, my favorite contemporary designer. They also have a brother store named Tabor that carries Saint Laurent for men, RRL, and Common Projects. What’s your best advice for emerging stylists? Have really good credit! [Laughs] As a stylist, I cover all costs upfront. Secondly, you need to be able to hustle. Make connections, call around, and try to work with anybody who would work for your clients. Also, be direct. If a client tries a look, and it’s not a great look for them, don’t be afraid to say, “This doesn’t work. Let’s try something else.” You work for the client, you don’t work for the stores. You really need to know what works for each body shape. Don’t be afraid to edit! What are some of your hobbies outside of fashion? I love spending time with my family and cooking. I love to head to the mountains and literally just veg out. I get off my phone and invest my time in people.
She’s got the look Hanks embraces a mix of classic tailoring and unexpected accessories.
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British-born designer Christian Cowan was touched by the hand of Gaga while still in college, and before long, Cardi B, Beyoncé, and Christina Aguilera came calling. How did this 24-year-old wunderkind make it to Manhattan? The Daily stopped by his studio to get the lowdown on his meteoric rise. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM JESS LAIRD queen, was friends with some people from a magazine in London, and they Instagrammed it. Somehow, Gaga’s team saw it, and two days later, they e-mailed me, requesting the whole collection. I basically passed out! How did you maximize that opportunity? I’ve always had a fairly good understanding that the Internet is really paramount. When [the photos of Gaga wearing my looks] first came out, I sent out a press release so my name would be included in articles. I pushed home the fact that I was the first-ever student to have dressed her. All the papers in England picked up on it. Then, to keep up the momentum, I contacted loads of people, saying, “Oh, I just worked with Gaga.” What was your next move after graduating? Since I was 10, I have always said that I would move to New York, and then I was dating someone who lived here. I moved here pretty much straightaway and started work on my first collection. Where does this ambition come from? My mum. She really wants me to reach my full potential— but not in a Joan Crawford/Mommie Dearest way. How do you describe your brand’s aesthetic? There are many ways to process what’s going on in the world—you can either reflect, or you can help others process it by bringing some lightheartedness, humor, and vibrancy. That’s what the brand is about—escapism! Cardi B is another fan. How did you two connect? She was on a reality-TV show [Love & Hip Hop: New York], and she requested some clothes. I hadn’t heard of her at that point, but I looked through her Instagram and loved her personality. I also noticed that engagement from her fans was sky-high, so I started lending to her, and she’d tag me, and I’d get 10,000 followers and 300 orders in two hours. It was crazy. She’s been wonderful to work with.
RUNWAY HIT Christian Cowan’s Spring ’19 collection.
You were part of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund initiative. What was that experience like? It sounds cheesy, but it really benefited me as a business. They force you to answer questions like, Who are your consumers, and where in the world are they? What is your brand trying to say? What is your cash flow forecast for the next five years to present to investors? It puts a much more refined focus on where the brand is going. Tell us about Anna’s visit to your studio… I cleaned the crap out of the place. You could literally eat off anything. I had these weird desk chairs that were really slippery. I was like, “Anna Wintour will not fall off a chair at my studio!” I ordered new ones before she came. I’m not really nervous around her. She has a British sense of humor—she’s really funny and nice. How did you and [boyfriend and Paper chief creative officer] Drew [Elliott] meet? We met on Raya—it’s like Tinder for creative people. We matched, and the rest is history!
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Let’s start at the very beginning… I grew up in Cambridge, England—well, near Cambridge. More like in the middle of nowhere! And then my parents separated and remarried, and then I ended up being one of 11 children in total, because of all my step-siblings. As a kid, I was super quiet. I was “the creative one,” and I had a lot of alone time. I was obsessed with insects and reptiles, and I had loads of weird pets, like stick insects and leaf insects and frogs. Were you a loner as a child? For sure! Out of choice! I was really curious about the weird world in my head. I had a big imagination, so I just didn’t like people ruining the fantasy. When did you know that fashion was your thing? I was 12 years old, and I came across Gareth Pugh and Alexander McQueen. Up until then, I wanted to be an entomologist—someone who studies insects—and I saw the two [fields] as almost the same, because insects are the most wildly creative forms in the natural world. Were you a rebel in university? I went through a really, really rebellious period between the ages of 14 to 18. A lot of it had to do with the standard stuff of being a gay man who’s completely closeted in an environment that was seemingly not okay with that. So I went out a lot, I ran away, I would skip school and go to festivals and experiment with all the drugs. I really lived that “club kid” life in London for a bit. It was really inspiring to me—it’s informed a lot of what I’ve done since. And then you went to Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion, and ended up dressing Lady Gaga! How did you even get in touch with her? I didn’t! It was so random. I’m incredibly impatient, so I couldn’t wait to release a collection until after university. I did one piece, and one of my friends in London, a drag FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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It’s no surprise that the undisputably good-looking Marcos Fecchino began his career as a model. But before long, he expanded his skill set and emerged as one of the most in-demand producers in fashion. The Argentinian-born 31-year-old tells The Daily how he’s nailing his dream job. BY EDDIE ROCHE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEIROH YANGA
What were you like as a kid? I was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina. My dad is Italian and my mom’s side is French, so I was raised with a lot of European traditions. I grew up in the city, but my dad worked on a farm, so I spent a lot of time there. My parents then moved outside of Buenos Aires, where I went to school. As soon as I had a little bit of independence, I was studying photography, and as a teenager, I was really into art and museums. On the weekends, I wouldn’t be out partying—I’d be studying. How did you get your start in modeling? I was at a party, and a guy came up to me and asked me if I wanted to be a model. I hesitated, but decided to try it. I met my first real boss, [creative director] Roy Garcia, on my first job. I showed him my CV, and he ripped it up in front of me and said, “Tell me what you can do and what you can’t.” I explained that I don’t know how to produce, but when I want to do something, I make it happen. He gave me the job. I started working right away as a producer—I was only 20!
How did modeling factor in? It gave me an opportunity to be where I am now, and it introduced me to people, but getting paid to be pretty at that age is a little confusing. I always wanted to be behind the scenes. How did you land in the U.S.? When I was 22, we did a job with [Argentinian photographer] Paola Kudacki in New York. We shot at the penthouse at Milk, and I realized this is where I wanted to be. So I moved here, and it was stressful. Every shoot was a new adventure. My English wasn’t perfect, and I was young, so it was hard to get clients. I met a modeling agent, Greg Chan, because I used to book models from him as a producer. He said, “You’re a model!” And I said, “I’m a producer!” But he convinced me to do some modeling. You were lured back in! What were some of your favorite modeling moments? I shot with Steven Klein, and I did a show for Calvin Klein and a presentation for Tom Ford. It was not my thing, but it helped me get my visa and make contacts.
What did you dislike about modeling? There was a lot of free time and no control. I wanted to be able to tell someone that the lighting needed to be corrected, but as a model, it wasn’t my place. When did your producing work really take off ? I started working with Sebastian Faena, who was working with Carine Roitfeld, and she needed an extra hand. One thing led to another… What did you learn from working with Sebastian? He’s like a kid who does whatever he feels like—he’s very inspiring and passionate. He will never just do a job. Argentinians are like that. Was it initially nerve-racking to work with Carine? I don’t get nervous around celebrities or icons. I think they like working with me because I treat them normally. Maya Angelou once said that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel. I apply that to everything. Any especially memorable shoots? We once shot in Central Park with Carine and Gigi [Hadid], when she was starting to become a supermodel, and people were going crazy. She was wearing huge couture gowns, and the strict permit situation in the park was stressful. The moment we started shooting, I wanted it to end! Although Gigi is the nicest, nicest person and so hard-working. What shoot are you most proud of ? A lot of work that I’ve done with Sebastian, and the cover of Vogue with Pharrell Williams, shot by Mario Testino. What are the biggest challenges in your job? Making everyone happy—every vendor, every crew member, every person that you talk with on the phone. The amount of people that I talk to for one shoot is crazy. There are a lot of details involved. Sometimes you also have to be creative with the budgets, mostly in editorial! It’s challenging, but it’s exciting. If you love the project, you want to ask for extra favors.
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ON THE JOB (Left and above right) Model Lara Stone in a shoot for The Daily Summer produced by Fecchino and shot by Sebastian Faena. (Above left) Faena and Carine Roitfeld have been major supporters.
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DOGDays Yes, it’s the age of the influencer—but influencers of the human variety are so 2018. Meet Loni Edwards, founder of The Dog Agency, which is repping some of the mosttalked-about pets on the ’Gram.
PAW PATROL The Dog Agency’s Loni Edwards with Izzy, Mochi, and Louboutina.
BY ASHLEY BAKER photography by william jess laird
PET PROJECT! How was the influencer business running at that time? Mostly through DMs and random e-mails. I’d meet other pet influencers, and they’d be like, “I got this contract—I know you’re a lawyer, should I sign this? Is this fair?” After I sold my last company, I decided to open the agency. I have the legal expertise and relationships, and having been a pet influencer myself, I understood the business from that perspective, too. I saw an opportunity to kind of streamline the whole industry. I launched The Dog Agency in 2015, and now, we represent around 160 influencers. What’s the distribution of your client list among different species? The majority is dogs, and the next biggest category is cats. From there, we have a handful of speciality pets and some humans, like [veterinarian] Dr. Louise Whitman. Is there anyone else in your space right now? Do you have any competition? Not really. As far as the place to go to work with pet influencers? We’re that place. We work with tons of
brands, and we are generally their first stop, because we make the process so easy, and we represent a lot of the top talent. What are some of your favorite recent projects? We work with brands in pretty much every vertical. We just did a huge campaign with Sony Pictures for Alpha, and we had little screening events all over the U.S. We worked with The Body Shop’s Forever Against Animal Testing campaign. We just did a campaign with Moncler for its new line of dog outerwear. We worked with Neiman Marcus for two of its handbag and shoe books. [My dog] Chloe did a huge campaign with Loft. PetCon is another business—it’s our consumer-facing event that brings the entire [pet influencer] world offline.
these pets are, it’s more of a process to get them to do exactly what you want them to do. We want brands to understand that and have fun with it, and be open to more spontaneous content.
Do your pets do editorial? Yes, regularly. We do editorial, branded campaigns, traditional influencer marketing…lately, we’ve received requests to have our pets appear as cameos in movies. Our business is expanding a lot beyond Instagram, which is cool. People feel like they known these pets—they look at them every day, and they just want to see them in other aspects of their lives.
What’s that like? PetCon is a pet lover’s dream. Pets from all over fly into New York for meet-and-greets. There are panels on everything from advancements in animal health to the birth of the pet industry to how to grow your following. There’s also a dog adoption garden and an adoptable cat café. There are also a bunch of booths where people can discover and shop from new brands.
Business is booming, then! Yeah, it’s grown a ton. With pets you have all these special, unique benefits that you don’t get with a human. They won’t say something politically charged or offensive, so they’re safe, they’re adorable, they make people happy, they resonate with everyone regardless of age, location, gender, and then their content tends to have a higher likelihood of going viral. When they’re doing a human-facing thing, it’s more creative, and people have more of a reaction to that.
How do you manage dealing with pet personalities and their owners? When brands want to control the content—during a shoot, for example—we prep them and explain that they need to be patient. With a human, you can say, “Look to the left,” but regardless of how well-trained
Have you always been an animal person? No. I had a dog growing up, but it wasn’t really my dog. I didn’t understand what it’s like to have a fur baby that is like your child until I got Chloe. From the moment I got her I was so in love with her and just really understood this dog world. All of this exists because of Chloe.
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True or false: You used to be a lawyer. True. I went to Harvard Law School, worked at a big firm in Los Angeles, and hated life. I wanted to do something more creative. I came back to New York and started a fashion tech company, and while doing that I got a dog. She became Insta-famous, and I saw there was a growing influencer world, but there was no structure to it.
Puppy Love Elle Drouin with a glowing Mochi, following her weekly facial. BLUSHING BRIDE Shane Jordan (left) and Rick Hendrix gave away Izzy at her recent wedding to Filmore in a ceremony at Milk Studios that was officiated by Whoopi Goldberg.
MEET MOCHI! And owner Elle Drouin
Tell us all about Mochi! She’s @mochiandthecity on Instagram, and she is a 4-year-old Maltipoo who lives in Brooklyn. She loves fashion, wine, travel, and basically being the center of attention all the time. When did you first get the sense that she would be a personality, a character, an influencer? I started her Instagram account basically right after we brought her home, and her following surpassed mine in a couple of weeks. Once we had around 10,000 followers, brands started reaching out, wondering if we could promote their products, and I was like, “Oh, this is like a real thing.” Once I realized that people were really interested in her, I started to think about who Mochi is, what her life is really like in the city…and I started to think more strategically about the type of content we were sharing. How many followers does she have now? 105,000. Did you keep your day job? Yes, I am a product stylist and a photographer. What kind of clothes is Mochi into these days? Her style is “cool Brooklyn girl.” She wears elevated basics—cozy knits in the winter, but also things like a leather jacket. She actually has a lot of faux leather. She wears pieces that are really wearable in the city. Favorite partnerships? The ones that involve travel! We traveled to RitzCarlton properties in Puerto Rico and Aruba. We’ve also partnered with Google, Disney, Polo Ralph Lauren, and Moda Operandi. Sounds like she’s making money! She is. What does she eat? Fresh gourmet turkey and red quinoa, which is delivered to our home. She won’t drink tap water; Mochi only drinks bottled water, and she really prefers Voss. Is she into music or TV? She’s not so much into music, but she religiously watches The Bachelor with her followers on Instagram stories every Monday.
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Does she have any pet peeves? Mochi doesn’t love grass, and she refuses to go outside in the rain. She doesn’t like getting her feet dirty or wet. Can you tell us about her grooming routine? She gets a blueberry facial every week to maintain a very white complexion, and she gets a full grooming about once a month.
MAn’s BEST FRIEND Louboutina and Cesar Fernandez hug it out on the red carpet…and the street!
HERE’S IZZY! and owner Rick Hendrix
How did Izzie the Frenchie become so famous? Shane [Jordan] and I got her about two years ago, and we made a video of her in the bath for our friends. We put it online, and the next morning, it had like 12 million views. We live in the Hamptons, where it’s cold, so we put her in clothes to keep her warm. She loved it! She’d go to her closet and pick dresses, and we started sharing that with people. And before you knew it, they started looking at her to see who she was wearing. Who makes her clothes? A designer who used to work for Dior, who makes everything custom. How many Instagram followers does she have? She has about 130,000 followers @izzythe.frenchie. Last year, she had 450 million views around the world. She’s trending in Pakistan, Turkey, and the U.K. In the past month, she’s been featured in Vogue, Vanity Fair, The New Yorker, People, and Paper.… Her wedding was a brides.com exclusive! Is this your full-time gig? We retired. We worked for Hillary Clinton for 10 years. I was her deputy faith advisor. We also have an energy company. We’ve been blessed to be able to have fun with Izzy. She’s a good release for us. We worked in entertainment 20 years prior, and Izzy is the best artist we’ve ever had. We go home and cuddle her, and she doesn’t snap back. She doesn’t have all these big riders, either. Well, she does request a cooling pad.
…AND ALL ABOUT LOUBOUTINA! And owner Cesar Fernandez
Any relation to Christian Louboutin? Yes, she was named after him! Louboutina was nominated for a Streamy Award in Los Angeles in October, and Christian Louboutin gave me shoes to wear on the red carpet! What’s her claim to fame? It’s pretty simple—she just likes to hug a lot. She was always hugging me on the street, and people were taking pictures of us. She didn’t even have an Instagram at the time, but I was getting messages from my friends with screenshots of her. Little by little, one media outlet led to the other. Do you have a day job? Yeah, I’m in health-care management. I never planned to become an influencer—it happened in an organic way—but we’ve done campaigns for major brands like Google, Facebook, and Amazon. You two travel a lot. Yes, a lot of her posts are in different countries. We were in the Kolonaki neighborhood of Athens, sitting at a café, when I posted an Instagram story [@louboutinanyc], and soon after, two women were running after us screaming, “Louboutina! Cesar!” The same thing happened in Paris! What are some of your hopes and dreams for her? I’d like to do a children’s book that focuses on diversity. She hugs people from any race, gender, and sexual orientation…those situations for me are special. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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Drew It Designer Andrew Warren knows just what the stylish young socialiteinfluencer set wants to wear to stand out, as his label, Just Drew, proves. Here, Warren dishes on continuing his grandfather’s fashion legacy, evolving Just Drew, and more. BY JORDAN DUFF Y PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATHALIE ROSENFELD
Danielle Naftali and Andrew Warren
DAILY LOVE! Just Drew looks were featured on dual covers of The Daily’s February 7-8, 2019 issue.
show at The Plaza where Aston Martin was one of the sponsors. I had the girls pose with the car, because I love showing the world beautiful things. Last summer, I did a luncheon at The Lowell Hotel and served Petrossian caviar, Jon Bon Jovi’s Diving Into Hampton Water rosé. Only the best for my guests! We hear that Andy Warhol inspires your work. Why? I love Andy Warhol because he uses his muses to inspire and help him. My friends and muses have always pushed my designs. I love his art because it’s fun, creative, and, most importantly, because it was different at the time. He wasn’t following everyone else’s trends; he was making his own. That’s what I want to do. Who’s your muse of the moment? Currently, it’s one of my best friends, Danielle Naftali. She basically helps run the Naftali Group development firm, a business empire, and she always looks trendy, chic, and confident. She’ll wear a purple metallic power suit or a sparkly tweed blazer for day, and then head out to an event from work. She’s smart, fun, and fashionable; I love the way she thinks, and what she accomplishes day to day. She’s that girl, the one who can do it all—and she looks beautiful doing it.
PLUS! Meet Danielle Naftali What prompted you to join your father’s business? I’ve always been quite ambitious, with dreams of being a “girl boss” and running the world. It wasn’t expected of me to end up in real estate. Growing up, my parents encouraged me to follow my heart and pursue a career I was truly passionate about. When I began working at Naftali Group at age 18, I was quickly fascinated by the entire development process, and eager to find my own niche in the business. Tell us about your role. I’m the manager of marketing, sales, and design, and I oversee new developments from inception to completion. No project is the same, and that’s one of the things I love most about the role—we build buildings that change the skyline. The Shephard, at 275 West 10th Street, with 38 luxury residences in the heart of the West Village, was one of the first projects I oversaw from the beginning. How would you describe your personal style? Classy and chic, but I always wear one bold piece with every outfit. I do love trading in my high heels for construction boots twice or three times a week.
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Fashion is a family affair for you. Tell us more! My grandfather, David Warren, started his dress manufacturing business in 1957. After taking it public and retiring to California, he realized that he preferred the fashion industry over two hours of golf every day. He promptly returned two months later, and started The Warren Group in 1968. There were seven individual companies under The Warren Group umbrella, each completely autonomous and with a specific design niche, sold at every major U.S. department store—Macy’s, Dillard’s, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue, to name a few. There was day, evening, knitwear, separates, something for every woman, for every hour of her day. I really loved this concept. His name is even inscribed on a statue in the middle of the Garment District. My grandfather was a pioneer in the fashion industry. He had a privately held, mini conglomerate of inhouse dress brands. He didn’t go with the trends; he was guided by his instincts. Even when pantsuits were becoming hot, he refused to make them. He was handson in every aspect of the business, and had a lot of confidence in both the dress business and in operation methods. He truly loved what he did. What’s been your most exciting retail deal to date? Barneys Japan. I can’t believe my brand is in Japan! My ultimate dream is expanding globally, and right now I particularly love the fashion [in Japan]. I really felt great that they liked my designs. It was an incredible honor! You’re very social media savvy. How do you leverage your Instagram following to promote your brand? I want my brand to be for the jet-set, It Girl who’s on the go. The Just Drew woman isn’t afraid to stand out and be noticed, and she’s living life to its fullest. I use social media to align with luxury. I’m very particular about the products, spaces, people, and brands I put my brand with. I have kept my personal brand, Andrew Warren, very authentic and only post and align with products I truly believe in. I have a unique point of view: I believe more is always more. For instance, I had a fashion FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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Queen Meet Gigi Mortimer, the founder of the blue-light-blocking screen protector EyeJust, who has made it her mission to protect us from the harmful rays emitted by our devices. Tell us a little bit about the effects of blue light. The eye-opening truth is that the harmful blue light damages your eyes, harms your sleep, and prematurely ages your skin. Blue light kills the photoreceptors in your retina, and it puts you at risk for retina damage. It also disrupts your sleep cycles—the reason why you shouldn’t look at your phone at night is because the blue light is tricking your brain into thinking it’s daylight. This disrupts our circadian rhythm. Our circadian rhythm is our sleep and wake cycles. Sleep is so important because during sleep is when all your cells repair, and so people aren’t getting that valuable time that they need sleeping. The last thing that has been uncovered more recently is the damage to skin. Blue light is a penetrating light. It causes premature aging of the skin, as well as pigmentation. What is blue light? Blue light is the light that comes off your phone. It’s a
anyone who spends a lot of time on their phones? What we hear from our customers—these are from journalists, writers, people who experience screens all the time—is they immediately notice a difference with their eyes. I think 87 percent of people complain about digital eyestrain, which is caused by staring at blue light. We were like, Wow, so many people are having this problem. Staring at blue light leads to early onset macular degeneration, which leads to blindness. We’re working with UC Irvine on some studies that are going to be released in May. The science is real. How does this product differ from others on the market? I bought a lot of the other ones; there aren’t a whole lot out there. Some of them have a yellow tint to the screen, which is really hard for artists and people who work in the fashion industry, because they really need to see the light. Ours doesn’t change the color of your screen. We also blocked the maximum amount of blue light coming off (to block 100 percent of the blue light, you kind of have to put a brick over the phone). We really wanted it to have a design focus on this to make it the best one available, because the other ones out there are not great—they’re plastic, they’re yellow, they scratched. We thought we could really create a high-quality screen protector that blocks the blue light. We used an optical clarity glass bacteria blocker on the screen. One of the things we really wanted to do was make it obtainable to everyone. People are buying blue light glasses for like $60, $70. This is just $24.95. Any new products on the horizon? We’re coming out with computer screens soon—they’ll probably be available by March. Any tips for cutting down on screen time? One of the best things to do is hold the phone further away from your eyes and then turn off the notifications. I find them extremely distracting, and scientifically, the notifications create more cortisol in your body, which is the stress hormone. I try and keep stress down. I turn my phone off about two hours before bedtime. I also use apps that help me monitor my screen time. But honestly, the easiest and simplest way to start having a healthier tech solution is to put EyeJust on your phone, because it blocks 50 percent of the blue light.
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specific spectrum—450 nanometers— at which the iPhone is designed to have the most light. We’ve had blue light in our lives from sunshine and skies, but with cell phones, the proximity that we hold the phone to our face, and the amount of time that we’re spending looking at them makes it harmful. Putting a protector over it was the first line of defense. What inspired you to create EyeJust? About five years ago, I was working around the clock on a project. I’d wake up in the middle of the night, I’d write e-mails to people, I wasn’t sleeping well. Around the same time, my son was also sneaking his iPad into his bed at night and watching movies. He wasn’t doing so well in school, and I was trying to figure out what was going on. Coincidentally I read an article from Harvard that completely changed my life—it talked about the downside of digital, and blue light. Having been in the fashion business for years and thinking about what’s the next biggest thing, and having designed eyewear, I realized that I probably could create something that could be a solution for what I was having a problem with. I thought initially about doing blue-light-blocking glasses but my son, who was about 12 at the time, wasn’t going to put on a pair of glasses to watch movies on his iPad. So I thought, Let’s do the first line of defense and put on the screen protector. It completely solves the problem, it’s extremely affordable, and it protects your screen. How much time does the average person spend on his or her devices daily? It varies between seven hours and 10 hours. But what we’re realizing is the media…news people are on Twitter all day long, fashion people are on Instagram all day long, so I think they’re far exceeding the national average. Children’s eyes are especially [susceptible to] damage, because their eyes aren’t fully developed and children tend to hold the screens closer [to their faces]. And the amount of time they’re going to spend staring at blue light in their lifetime is scary. I would definitely protect my kids’ eyes. How can this product help media professionals or
n o a gri f f e l ( 1 ) ; a l l o t h ers c o urtes y
Blue light is a penetrating light. it causes premature aging of the skin, as well as pigmentation.
D O YO U R H A N D S H AV E A C E R TA I N “J E N E S A I S Q U O I � ?
#1664handmodel
C a s t i n g c a l l a n d d r i n k i n g f o r a g e s 21 + o n l y. P l e a s e d r i n k re s p o n s i b l y.
O u r t i m e l e s s Fre n c h b e e r i s s e a rc h i n g f o r t h e per fect hands to hold it.
1. G e t y o u r e l e g a n t h a n d s o n a b o t t l e o f 1 6 6 4 B l a n c . 2. Ta ke a t a s t e f u l p h o t o h o l d i n g the iconic blue bottle. 3. Upload to Instagram and use #1664handmodel.
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CreativePowerhouse
MARKETING MAVEN Olga Osminkina-Jones
Fueling Fashion’s
next gen
As PepsiCo’s VP of hydration & innovation, Olga Osminkina-Jones is the branding dynamo for the company’s global hydration portfolio. Her role includes helming pH-balanced, electrolytes-enriched LIFEWTR. Each Series of the premium water brand features three distinct and beautiful bottles, showcasing three different artists. For Series 3 and Series 6, which is available now, the brand partnered with the CFDA to select fashion designers who, in addition to designing their own LIFEWTR bottles, had the opportunity to showcase their work at New York Fashion Week. Osminkina-Jones explains the ongoing initiative, the latest young talents, and what lies ahead for the chic brand.
How do the six LIFEWTR series themes, and the array of talents chosen to reflect these themes, tie together? Every LIFEWTR series is rooted in a real cultural tension—a tension that is based in the art, fashion, and design worlds. At the same time, it’s about a tension that is relevant to society at large, one that is worth talking about. How did you and the LIFEWTR team come up with the concept for Series 6? LIFEWTR Series 6 is all about putting the spotlight on the importance of diversity in the design world and how diversity cannot only help empower freedom of selfexpression, but also shape the way we relate with other
cultures and grow empathy for diversity of thought. Why do you think the trio of designers selected for Series 6 are a great fit for this ongoing LIFEWTR x CFDA initiative? The three designers who were selected show a big promise to break through in the fashion world, given the right platform and opportunity. They are all past winners of the CFDA’s annual Fashion Future Graduate Showcase, and each designer has a strong sense of identity fueled by their cultural backgrounds. They are all committed to building their names and brands in the creative world. These are all great ingredients to be a perfect fit for LIFEWTR—we are a platform to advance and showcase emerging creative talent, and a perfect launchpad for
those who can best benefit from our platform and our LIFEWTR “canvas.” Like The Daily, LIFEWTR is committed to supporting emerging designers. What are you proudest of, as far as the evolution of LIFEWTR’s partnership with the CFDA—and with NYFW? I am endlessly proud of the authentic nature of our partnership. We are united by a shared purpose to foster creativity and help emerging talent that can make a real impact on this world. All we do together is fueled by our shared purpose and values, and in turn, this makes for a meaningful impact. Together we have progressed the careers of six individual designers in the fashion industry, with some of them now launching
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SERIES 6 SENSATION Highlights from Daniel Cloke’s September NYFW showing.
THE RIGHT STRIPES (From top) Ji Won Choi casting models for her show; a couple of her colorful graphic designs.
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A CUT ABOVE (Left) Jamall Osterholm preps a model for his futuristic presentation (above and right) at NYFW last fall.
their own collections and being selected for other opportunities, like Project Runway. Beyond that, we have touched many students through art and fashion in education initiatives. We look forward to having even more of an impact in the coming months. How has it been working with Steven Kolb and the CFDA on this project, and what have you enjoyed most about working together? Steven Kolb is the ultimate partner in thinking big and never forgetting why we do what we do. He has been a big supporter of LIFEWTR’s purpose. Steven has also understood and supported the dream that the LIFEWTR team and I have for the brand, and for the true role it can play in empowering the creative community. Thanks to our shared vision yet diverse backgrounds, we are able to do what has not been done before: redefine what is possible and consistently push the boundaries. I am forever grateful for our partnership. How do you plan to evolve LIFEWTR’s involvement with NYFW and the CFDA in the future, and why? I guess we will have to wait and speak again soon! What I can share now is that we are committed to our purpose, and we are working diligently together to see what is the most meaningful contribution we can make to this creative community of emerging talent, to art and fashion education, and to society at large. In addition to opportunities to show at NYFW, and to design a water bottle, how might selected fashion designers or artists be involved in additional, new ways in future series of this initiative? No series and no year is the same. No artist or designer is the same. We keep it interesting! We work with our emerging artists and creative talent on devising the most meaningful ways to advance and showcase their talent, all the while creating meaningful impact in communities, such as [Series 4’s focus on] fostering art education. After all, art education is a critical ingredient in driving progress in our society, and in nurturing
whole-brain thinkers. Art education is also a common prerequisite of inspiring new emerging talent in the art, fashion, and design worlds. Do you keep in touch with past series’ designers and artists, or occasionally keep tabs on what these talents are up to now? What’s the LIFEWTR alumni connection and community like? Absolutely. All our artists have continued their progress in the creative field, some with great acceleration, gaining international acclaim, representation and exhibitions, global brand commissions, growth of mainstream followings, and recognition. Last year, we organized our first artist symposium with artists from all series to date coming together, networking, and learning from established talent and industry gurus. We aim to continue this tradition! How else do you think these series alums continued to benefit from working with LIFEWTR, long after their series or “class” has debuted or “graduated”? They have had a chance to meet a number of industry luminaries who have direct opportunities to influence the trajectory of the LIFEWTR designers’ careers. And that’s just the beginning! They’re now forever part of the LIFEWTR family. How do you think LIFEWTR has become an impactful part of the fashion industry? The fundamental thing to remember is that LIFEWTR as a brand is about giving a platform to emerging artists and fashion designers. It’s an outlet, a way for them to be found. We select them through our visibility partnership, and really giving the right talent the platform as a chance of breaking through. In many ways, fashion is living art! These are the kind of opportunities that can truly launch careers. How has fashion influenced your own career? Fashion and design have been enormous influences for me, for everything I do. On a personal level, fashion presents such an incredible opportunity for
self-expression and allows you to really cultivate authenticity and unleash your personality and ability to think differently. You’ve given us great career guidance in the past. Any advice for aspiring marketing mavens just starting out? Really shape your attitude, so you treat anything you come across as a learning experience and opportunity for growth. Other advice I’d give is to cultivate curiosity by always asking the question “Why, why, why, why,” so you’ll really know the driving root cause behind whatever you’re dealing with. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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fashionForward ON THE RISE LIFEWTR’s Series 6 designers (from left), Daniel Cloke, Ji Won Choi, and Jamall Osterholm
AThirst for
design The sixth round of LIFEWTR’s Artist Series celebrates a handful of designers on the rise: Ji Won Choi, Daniel Cloke, and Jamall Osterholm. This talented trifecta got to show at NYFW for the first time in September 2018—they also designed their very own LIFEWTR bottles, so you can nab a portable, hydrating piece of their work next time you’re parched. Now, let’s meet the designers! BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
CREATIVE PROCESS Choi at work; her LIFEWTR bottle.
How would you describe your aesthetic? My work revolves around using fashion to address social and cultural issues. Visually, my aesthetic always leans toward dramatic, colorful, graphic. There’s a touch of playfulness, too. What inspires your work? Fashion is such a critical part of culture, and I am always inspired by our culture and society. I love seeing the differences in fashion between different cities and cultures, so travel is a critical part of my inspiration as well. Tell us about your chic LIFEWTR bottle design! The artwork on my LIFEWTR bottle is actually a closeup detail shot from my first lookbook. I chose this photograph because it embodies my design aesthetic by capturing color, graphic boldness, and abstract qualities. How did you first become interested in fashion? I’ve always been interested in fashion in some way. I was back home in Oklahoma for the holidays, and I found my elementary-school yearbook where I answered the question “What do you want to be when you grow up?” with “fashion designer.” But I always believed it wasn’t an achievable profession until I attended Parsons.
I really fell in love with fashion when I moved to New York and saw the direct influence of fashion on culture. I wanted to be a part of it. How has your upbringing in Seoul and in Oklahoma influenced you as a designer? All the places I have lived and the cultures I have experienced influenced me in some way and gave me different perspectives, which I’m very grateful for. I think it’s important to understand the role that fashion has in different cities, and its impact, aesthetics, style, and even trends. What was the highlight for you of showing at NYFW with LIFEWTR in September 2018? The entire presentation at NYFW was the highlight, because it was my first time showing at New York! This city is where I fell in love with fashion, it’s where I studied fashion, and where I began my career, so it’s a special place to be showing my work. What’s next for your brand? I hope to continue to develop more sustainable methods and practices within the brand. I do use sustainable fabrics, and do as much as I can to cut out waste, but it’s not perfect; there is room to be developed further.
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JI WON CHOI
DANIEL CLOKE What was your very first fashion design? I think it was a dress from the first year of my fashion program that was made out of…bones. It was pretty spooky and crazy to look back on, but I think it shows that even at the start, I was interested in building fabrics as well as garments. What was it like to show at NYFW for the first time? It was absolutely motivating to be chosen for the opportunity, and it gave me a chance to make something to the best of my ability, uninhibited, truly my own—and an honest expression of what and how I design is rare, and beyond fulfilling. It’s a struggle to get attention on your work in such a competitive space.
n
TOP TALENT Cloke in the studio; his LIFEWTR bottle.
Showing at NYFW definitely gave me a platform to shout my ideas from. How did you come up with your LIFEWTR bottle design? My design represents what I love about designing clothes—color, texture, and motif. I love a gradient, and wanted to give the illusion of depth and perspective through color. Working digitally let me get really detailed and build a more complex picture. What did you learn from your stints at Alexander Wang, Ralph Lauren, and Perry Ellis? My experiences at Wang and Ralph laid the foundations for me to venture into knitwear confidently and with enough knowledge to navigate the industry. School taught me the creative aspect of producing a collection; however, there’s so much beyond creativity that’s demanded. Working with manufacturers, sourcing materials, programming knit and woven patterns—the amount of work is endless, for sure, but real-life experience is the best form of preparation. Which fashion designers do you admire? Dries van Noten, Iris van Herpen, and Walter Van Beirendonck are my fabric heartthrobs. They work at a level of detail and technique that I really aspire to. Iris’s exploration of technology in making her own materials is excellent, and her refusal to dilute her vision for a commercial market is super fierce. How do you want to evolve your brand in coming years? I have quite a few opinions on the industry—its breakneck and unsustainable speed, the lack of support for young artists in an already oversaturated market, the obstacles in place for an emerging designer—and it only emphasizes how vital opportunities like the one I was given are. Young creative design really does hold the power to move this industry forward, and it’s time for the fashion scene to mobilize!
DETAIL ORIENTED Osterholm in design mode, his LIFEWTR bottle (below).
HAUTE HANDIWORK More behind-the-scenes action
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DESIGN WHIZ Jamall Osterholm
What’s your design M.O.? My aesthetic plays off of streetwear. I love history, and am often inspired by different time periods. I often imagine the person I am now, existing in a different time where I get to rewrite the narrative placing myself in positions of power. This alternate reality results in a kind of futurist aesthetic. What led you to pursue a career in the fashion industry? I became interested in fashion design as a freshman in college. I went into the fashion department at my university [RISD] with no prior experience in designing clothes or sewing. I always thought fashion was really amazing, so I decided to take a chance and jump into it. Ultimately, it became the most powerful medium for me to express and understand myself. What’s the story behind your LIFEWTR design? The design came from digitally altering an image from an editorial that I photographed. Photography is a huge part of my process; it really helps me visually contextualize my ideas and concepts. What’s next for you as a designer? I hope to be able to continue the Jamall Osterholm brand by tapping into a space where people can begin to purchase my clothing. In school and since graduating,
I’ve mostly focused on my brand identity, developing the concept and world that is my brand. This, for me, has been the most important thing moving forward. Now I hope to develop this creativity into a business. How did you start exploring futurism through fashion? I think that fashion is one of the most important art forms that exists. It quite literally defines culture and tells us about the times that we live in. For me, creating clothes and creating this vision comes from a necessity to realize a world that does not yet exist; a world where I can see myself reflected as beautiful, powerful, and intelligent. I’m creating a world I want to see, so I think these ideas become a kind of speculation for the future, almost like science fiction. Who inspires your work? I would say that I inspire my work. Everything I do is an attempt to understand myself and my place in the world. My work mostly talks about myself and my identity as a queer black man existing in a world where I am prescribed an identity by society. I’m in fashion to tell my own story, and to defy the stereotypes that are place on me every day. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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DESIGNERDebrief
ultimate
ramy Ramy Brook has an exciting new ad campaign, denim line, and grand plans for world domination. THE DAILY caught up with designer Ramy Sharp to learn more about her universe!
Sebastian Faena photographed Cami Morrone for your new campaign. How did it come together? We love Sebastian. He’s incredibly talented, and he did an amazing job with our Martha Hunt ads. He understands my vision. When we were finishing up with Martha, who had a year-long contract, he suggested we use Cami Morrone. I really trust him, so we met with her, and I thought she was adorable and perfect. They also had a special connection—they’re both from Argentina, and they speak to each other in Spanish, so she truly understands his vision and he gets her to be comfortable in front of the camera and pose a certain way that I don’t know if anyone else could. She is beautiful and smart. For me, it’s not just about the [model’s] physical look—it’s about the all-encompassing woman. That’s why I like to meet with these women who are going to represent the brand for a year because they have to be an extension of exactly what I’m looking for. What was the vibe of the photo shoot? We used a beautiful townhouse as our set, and we used multiple locations inside—by a fireplace, by a window, by a cool staircase—and we also shot on a plain background. Sebastian really got Cami to move, and she had a very sexy, beautiful look with every single piece she put on her body. It was a fun vibe! Sebastian had his music playing, and everybody was happy. What inspired your recent holiday collection? We were recently inspired by Gustav Klimt and the Art
Nouveau era. His use of decorative and ornate style and rich jewel colors of gold and copper influenced our holiday collection. We also developed great styles to wear to work based on the menswear trend. What can we expect for Fall 2019? We have really pretty fall colors, some exciting prints, and some great novelty pieces that are a little bit different than what we’ve done in the past. Our whole collection is really evolving with fabrics, and we’re going into new categories, and going deeper into some of the categories that we’re known for. We’re also launching our denim line this fall, so that’s new for us. Tell us more! I love denim, so I always wanted to add denim to our line to create a full Ramy Brook look. The denim that we’re adding really complements our whole collection. It also has a little bit of novelty to it—sequins, interesting colors, fabrics, and feels. And the fit is going to be amazing!
Why is denim important to the Ramy Brook woman? How does it fit into her life? She’s always multitasking, so a lot of her clothes take her from day to night. You don’t always have to be dressed up all day to go into the night, and vice versa. And denim, especially the right denim, can really do that for you. A cool pair of jeans that fit well and make you feel really good, paired with a cool top and maybe a jacket, is really right for the Ramy Brook woman. When she wakes up in the morning, she gets dressed, and this outfit will take her all through her day and night. We do have different rises—low, mid, and with long and cropped lengths. I personally love a low-rise jean, and there’s not a lot of that out there, so you’ll see some low-rise denim in this collection. It seems like low-rise is making a comeback! Yes! I think it’s a flattering shape on the body. You recently launched a shop-in-shop at Bloomingdale’s. What’s it like being part of
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s h a r p : k a t h l e e n o ' n e i l l ; c a m p a i g n i m a g e s : s e b a s t i a n fa e n a
BY Aria Darcella
s h a r p : k a t h l e e n o ' n e i l l ; c a m p a i g n i m a g e s : s e b a s t i a n fa e n a
such an iconic New York department store? It’s a dream come true. Bloomingdale’s on 59th Street has always been a place where I like to go shopping. I go there a lot with my daughter on the weekends. We shop the contemporary floor and then we always get yogurt. Bloomingdale’s has been renovating the whole store. When they were doing the plans for the second floor, they approached us with the idea of a shop-in-shop, and they were great to work with.
My sister-in-law is a contractor, so she built it for us. Now, we have a 400-square-foot space, and it’s doing amazing. Where can we buy Ramy Brook these days? Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, and Shopbop. We’re also carried in more than 250 boutiques around the country. Our boutique business has really grown significantly. Our footprint in the department stores has also grown significantly. So where we may have started with one rack, now we have multiple racks, our name on the wall, signage…really strong partnerships. We just started to go into Canada, and we’re exploring going international. I’ve visited a lot of great places in Europe, but I think the first place we would look into is in London, and then possibly Australia. Why do you think those two markets in particular are strong places to start? In London, there are so many great department stores that carry contemporary brands, and I think we could do well there. Paris would be interesting, too. And there are a lot of Australian designers I admire, and when I look at some of the brands over there, it seems like the perfect place for Ramy Brook to be in business.
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i love denim, so i always wanted to add denim to our line to create a full ramy brook look.” Have you ever been to Australia? I haven’t. A good friend of mine is from Australia, and she’s always connecting me with different friends of hers. But I would love to go! Maybe next Christmas. I feel like we need a lot of time to go, because it’s a long trip. Do you have any big trips coming up? Generally, we go out to the Hamptons for the summer. Last year, we also went away to Greece. I haven’t gotten there yet; I need to plan our spring break first. Hopefully, we’ll be somewhere nice and warm! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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TECHSupport
e d i t o r i a l P RO M OTIO N
TEMI TIME! You’re never fully dressed without your own personal robot. Meet temi—and Danny Isserles, the brand’s U.S. CEO.
What is your professional background? How did you end up in this space? I have always been a techie. I’ve been fixing and building computers since I can remember. In my professional life, I utilized the technological advances in filmmaking and built a guerilla-specialized film production company. I was first introduced to “temi” then, and after a few collaborations with the company, the founder and CEO saw potential in me and my responsibilities grew until I became the CEO of the U.S. company. What inspired the idea of temi? Our founder, Yossi Wolf, had the original idea for temi as a smart caddy for his grandmother. She would struggle to carry items from one room to the other, and he wanted the possibility of checking on her when she wasn’t answering her phone. He quickly realized the potential a device like temi would have throughout different generations, and he conceptualized temi with the help of a skilled engineering team. What can temi do? Temi connects its users to their friends, smart devices, media and video communications harnessed by voice commands like Alexa, completely hands-free and on the move. Users can check on the weather, order food, turn on the lights, exercise, and enjoy high-quality music and video content. Some of its most exciting features are based on temi’s fully autonomous indoor navigation system—the most sophisticated in the world, consisting of 16 different sensors. Temi maps its surroundings in real time, so users can save locations in their home or office, such as living room, kitchen, and so forth. Then users can call into temi and send it to those locations from anywhere in the world through interactive video calls controlled from their smartphones—meaning a user can be in two places at once. The idea is to reconnect and rebuild human connections by creating memorable and meaningful conversations while on a call. The user on the “robot side” can have temi in “follow mode,” meaning temi will stay next to the user wherever he goes, keeping his face at the center of the frame. The result is much longer more substantial conversations—closer to hanging out together rather than calling in.
ROBOT AT WORK Temi seamlessly integrates into a user’s home and work life.
What does temi do in an office setting? Temi is a great tool for executives who need to be present in two places at once. You can easily “hop” into temi to join a meeting while located in another city or country. You can take control and drive it around the office to oversee various projects, and communicate easily without having to switch from one video call platform to the next. Depending on the type of market the company is in, any owner can hop into temi to train teams, patrol around for safety purposes, join video calls, and guide guests from the entrance to a dedicated area. What inspired temi’s name? The name temi originates from the word “team.” It was built to connect teams better, and help them collaborate more efficiently. How does temi interact with humans? Temi utilizes artificial intelligence and self-learning capabilities to understand, communicate, and respond to its users by voice command. The most noticeable human/robot interaction happens when temi is in follow mode—temi locks onto the user in front of it, by the user’s choice, and keeps the user’s face in the center of the screen by driving and tilting the screen. This gives a user
an unparalleled human-robot interaction, as the robot seems to be looking directly at the user’s face. How often does temi need to be charged? Temi’s battery lasts up to eight hours, and takes about three hours to fully charge. When temi is exhausted, it autonomously docks itself on its home base to charge. How many temis are currently out there? The first temis will arrive at their owner’s doorsteps in March and April 2019 in the U.S. It is aimed to be massadopted, with a current production ability of 10,000 units per month, and the recent addition of Alexa into temi gives it another shove in the right direction. What makes temi especially useful for fashion professionals? The first aspect that a fashion lover will appreciate is temi’s slick modern design. For bloggers and vloggers, temi provides the ability to move around and let you go hands-free while giving fashion or makeup tutorials in a dynamic environment. Through temi, you can also remotely access a showroom to choose outfits. Our open-source platform permits any third-party developer to create applications atop temi’s core applications. For example, one could use object recognition to provide styling advice remotely and create outfits accordingly; another example would be to try on different makeup options utilizing face recognition to choose the best look. And always, you can blast music and walk around, imagining you are the star of the show!
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BY ASHLEY BAKER
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INSPIRED BEYOND THE INFLUENCE
An interactive experience including panels, workshops + networking to build and grow your brand
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L.A.Times
Design For Living The 50 units range from spacious studios to two-bedrooms.
Model Home Looking for a home away from home in Los Angeles? Look no further than Villa Carlotta, the newly refurbished residentialhotel-living haute spot based in Hollywood’s Franklin Village. Manager Brian McGrory explains!
What inspired the idea behind Villa Carlotta? The way in which live, work, and travel is ever-changing. Many of our residents are based overseas but are often here in L.A. for extended periods for work and leisure—to record music, to film, or to work on creative projects. They needed [a home] that worked with their lifestyle. Many of our residents work in creative industries and travel among various cities. The Villa offers the perfect set up for this, as they have the chance to meet other like-minded people while sharing the amenities that the Villa has to offer. Tell us about the history of the building. The Villa has played such a huge role in Hollywood history. It was built by Thomas Ince, the first major Hollywood studio head, and his wife, Eleanor, and it was designed by Arthur E. Harvey, who was also architect of the chateau-inspired Scientology Celebrity Centre across the street. Villa Carlotta played host to Hollywood icons including David O. Selznick, Marion Davies, Montgomery Clift, and gossip columnist Louella Parsons, whose columns were delivered to a courier from her apartment window. Other notable residents included Jim Morrison and Neil Patrick Harris. Legend has it that FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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Some of Villa Carlotta’s
Famous Residents
William Randolph Hearst financed the building, which was completed in 1926, after he allegedly shot and killed Ince on his yacht in 1924. The bullet was apparently intended for Charlie Chaplin, whom Hearst believed was having an affair with his mistress, Marion Davies. What are the apartments like today? The Villa was refurbished by Studio Preveza, a local design firm. No two units share the same layout. The 50 units range from spacious studios to two-bedrooms with all the original features carefully restored—1920s kitchens, floor-to-ceiling windows, Juliet balconies, bathrooms, as well as wrought-iron window grilles. Many have views of the Hollywood sign. Who did you work with to maintain the design integrity? Villa Carlotta’s ornate Churrigueresque-style historic landmark was restored with support from the Hollywood Heritage Museum and the Los Angeles Office of Historic Resources. What was the most challenging part of updating the building? The time that it took! It was a very detailed process, as we were meticulous in restoring it back to its original beauty, but with today’s modern conveniences and necessities.
Chic Eats Villa Carlotta will be opening a private event space in the spring.
and palm garden where residents can host dinners. Villa Carlotta is all about the experience, making guests feel as comfortable and as inspired as possible in their home away from home. Tell us a little bit about the neighborhood. The space is incredibly inspiring. Franklin Village is such a hidden pocket of Los Angeles. We are directly beneath the Hollywood sign, so residents often head there or to Griffith Observatory for fresh air and an unbeatable view of the city. We are also very central, close to Studio City and the recording studios. It’s also easy to get to Los Feliz, Beverly Hills, West Hollywood, and Downtown. Beachwood and Bronson canyons are full of creatives; there are so many inspiring places in the neighborhood to discover. What are the prices for a long-term stay? We are a long-term residential stay and therefore require a 30-day minimum stay, however, our prices are competitive, and start from $175 a night.
jim morrison
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I fell in love with the building many years ago and embarked on the restoration as a labor of love. the Villa has an incredible history and soul. I wanted to acknowledge this Hollywood treasure as much as possible, restoring features to their original beauty and bringing the Villa back to its original glory.” —Gidi Cohen, Owner of villa carlotta What are your plans for the new incarnation? In April, the Clubhouse will open, which has five ensuite bedrooms and a beautiful private event space for hosting dinners and events looking out onto the Tuscan saltwater pool. What are some of the cultural events that you’ve done here? We have created a sense of community at the Villa through events, including a music series, cultural programming, screenings, and supper clubs. Each Friday, we have a special happy hour for our residents with a pianist playing the grand piano in the lobby, reminiscent of the old Hollywood glamour for which the neighborhood is known. There is also a beautiful rooftop
Your residents include a lot of models and fashion industry types. What appeals to them about Villa Carlotta? The Villa is a well-kept secret, and we are incredibly discreet. The Villa itself is exceptionally spacious, and everyone living here has the sense that they have an apartment and their own private life and space, but with the sense that you are living among other creatives. We really wanted to celebrate the transient residential living, and to offer something for those on the West Coast for award season, art fairs, filming, recording, or for those who enjoy a sense of community. We couldn’t be more thrilled about the response. We can’t wait to be able to talk more about our future plans!
Louella Parsons, writer
Montgomery Clift
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historyLesson
The collector
Tell us about this new exhibition! This is our 50th anniversary, believe it or not. The museum was founded in 1969, when it was known as the Design Laboratory. We looked back and found we put on more than 200 fashion exhibitions in that 50 years. We thought, “What if we could do a show about that?” We chose 33 of the most influential ones that we still had clothes from in our permanent collection. This show of shows looks at little vignettes [of past exhibitions], with anywhere from one or six dresses from each show. What was the first fashion exhibition at FIT? It was in 1971, before the building was even built; a live fashion show about [costume and fashion designer] Adrian. The first-ever museum director, Robert Riley, was a great publicist, and he drummed up news about it. MGM heard about it and said, “Do you want these old costumes Greta Garbo and Joan Crawford wore?” We did a vignette with two dresses from that show. What are your favorite exhibitions over the years? “Gothic: Dark Glamour.“ The Daphne Guinness exhibition—that was great fun. We’re going to show one look she had—a silver Gareth Pugh—but we’ll also feature the moving hologram of her that was hanging over the show. “Japan Fashion Now” was another favorite of mine; so was “Fairy Tale Fashion,” which Colleen Hill curated. My colleague Patricia Mears did a wonderful show, “Madame Grès: Sphinx of Fashion.” Also, “Black Fashion Designers” and “Paul Poiret, King of Fashion.“ If you could have an unlimited budget to stage any exhibition completely unrestricted, what would it be? I would love to stage the show of Azzedine Alaïa’s hidden collection of fashion. By all accounts, it is one of the greatest private collections, or greatest collections period, in the world of fashion. Alaïa put it together over decades, and nobody’s seen it! Or they’ve only seen one or two dresses from it. People have told me when they went to see Alaïa, he’d sort of tantalize them and go, “Oh, here, you can see one or two dresses.” He brought out pieces from Poiret, Vionnet, and Charles James.…“Adrian and Alaïa” just opened in Paris, but that’s only a tiny fraction. How has FIT’s fashion collection evolved over time? Robert Riley had been working at the Brooklyn Museum [before FIT], where they had a design laboratory. He was
able to borrow things from Brooklyn, but he immediately wrote to friends and said, “I hear your mother was a client of Poiret. Could I visit your chateau in Normandy, look in the attic, and see what she still has left?” [His friends] would write back, “We don’t have any of Mommy’s clothes left, but of course, come visit us.” Then he’d go and visit and find all her Poirets in the attic, and his friends would give them to him. Lauren Bacall gave him hundreds of her pieces. The woman lived to shop and had fabulous taste. My predecessor, Richard Martin, was also a massive collector and would even use his own money to buy things for the museum. From the beginning, directors were interested in building a collection of both super important historic clothes and contemporary fashion. What modern designers are you collecting now? We made a big point of acquiring as much McQueen as we could. Rodarte, Rick Owens, Prada…Alaïa, of course, we were collecting avidly. Alaïa himself gave us some wonderful things. We have an excellent Chanel collection, and we’ve also worked with Chanel under Karl [Lagerfeld] to collect new things. We’ve been collecting Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, and Yohji Yamamoto in a big way. Japanese designers in general are so important. We try to make a point of collecting Gaultier. We have the world’s best collection of Halston, the world’s best collection of Claire McCardell, the world’s second-best collection of Charles James. We just had Carolina Herrera here filming because she’s donated some things to our collection—highlights of her career are here. Anna Sui gave us some Kenzo pieces she collected over the years. We got some lovely Helmut Lang. When Helmut stopped designing, he cleverly put his collection in multiple fashion museums around the world. What makes a piece museum-worthy? Our mandate is to focus on artistically and historically significant dresses. If it’s cutting edge, trend-setting, and something other designers are influenced by, we’re interested. It could be couture, but it could also be streetstyle, because punk, hippy, Goth…all those styles were super influential on high fashion. We look at auctions to see what comes up, and what collectors might get rid of. I go to fashion shows primarily to see what we might be able to acquire for our own collection.
VINTAGE GEMS Looks from FIT’s anniversary exhibition
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The Museum at FIT is celebrating its 50th year of exhibiting fashion. The Daily caught up with museum director Dr. Valerie Steele to find out how the institution is marking the anniversary, and how it has cultivated one of the most important fashion collections in the world. BY Aria Darcella
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CHICMoments TK Wonder and Cipriana Quann
Michael Kors’ Spring ’19 ad campaign
MichaeL’s Moment
Michael Kors kicked off New York Fashion Week with a party at Dolby SoHo to launch his Spring 2019 campaign, featuring a modern version of his trademark “jet set” lifestyle. THE DAILY caught up with Kors and campaign star Bella Hadid to find out just how much they know about each other.
Michael Kors and Bella Hadid
Jane Keltner de Valle
by Aria Darcella
chic chat!
with michael Kors and Bella Hadid
Gizele Oliveira
Camilla Belle
Olivia Palermo
Lex Henry, Jazzmine Carthon, and Veronica Pome’e Xenia Adonts
SPOTTED! AT DOLBy SOHO…
Flaviana Matata
Michael Kors campaign star Mayowa Nicholas was seen in the “Experience Room,” a 1,000-square-foot fully projection-mapped space...It girls TK Wonder and Cipriana Quann made an appearance before heading to The Daily’s dinner uptown...Stefano Tonchi was spotted exploring the whole space, even venturing downstairs where guests could play on a Michael Kors logo seesaw.
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Akua Williams and Symon Leone Timo Weiland
Peter Michaelian with Kors and Hadid
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What do you two love about each other? Michael Kors: Bella is smart and fun. She’s got loads of energy. I’m always curious and on the move, and so is she. She really puts her heart and soul into everything she works on, and I do, too. And then to have fun doing it? That’s the best. Bella Hadid: Michael is an icon. He’s been in fashion for many years now, and knows so many things, and has so many stories. Being able to be next to him and feel his energy and have a great day…it’s really fun. Tell us about the campaign—how do you explain the “new” jet set? Kors: Today, whether you’re getting on a plane, a boat, a train, or a helicopter, you don’t actually have to get in a vehicle to move. [Bella] is plugged in, she’s on the move, she’s curious. The new jet set is just about the fact that your life is all about speed, whether you’re on a plane or you’re actually looking at your Instagram checking something out. How do you keep your schedules organized this time of year? Kors: After this many years, I am very organized. But you know what, it’s fashion, and anything can happen. You start with the idea of perfect organization, but if you’re thrown a curve ball, you’re not having a heart attack. Hadid: Schedules are just everything. Kors: Except on vacation! Then I do the opposite. Hadid: Throw it away! Bella, tell us a great secret about Michael… Hadid: Michael’s afraid of heights! Kors: I’ve been outed! It’s true. It’s not good to have terraces and be afraid of heights. What can I say?
Francesca Leoni and Stefano Tonchi
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