f e b rua ry 9 –1 0, 2020
slug Slug
Ooh La La!
Discuss! Moments! * the Runway! * the Oscars dilemma!
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* the
F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Italian style There’s
ing n ot h e it! lik
@COTERIE
ADESI CASHMERE 6530 AMINA RUBINACCI 6532 ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ 6538 ANGIOLO FRASCONI 7166 ANTURA ACCESSORI 6965 ARENA COUTURE 6435 ARTICO 6542 BEBA GIOIELLI bijoux 6977 BESSI 6529 BIANCALANCIA 6543 BUN 6546
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CALIBAN 6741 CARDITOSALE 7074 CASA DREE SALAI 6436 ELISA CAVALETTI 6822 FEMÌ 6543 FERRUCCIO VECCHI 7215 Kimonorain 6440 KNIIT MILANO 6441 LAFABBRI 7165 LANDI 6543 LE SARTE PETTEGOLE 6741 MARANT BAGS 7169 MAURIZIO MASSIMINO 6432
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LE PIACENTINI 6333 LIVIANA CONTI 6243 MELAROSA 6342 NATYOURAL 6244 NUMERO 8 6341 ROBERT FRIEDMAN 6329 ROBERTA GANDOLFI 6269 ROSSO35 6326 SEVENTY VENEZIA 6322 SHAFT JEANS 6230 twinset milano 6323
@footwear
DONNA CAROLINA 108 NIS 118 PAS DE ROUGE 121 THIERRY RABOTIN 223
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Italy@NYC
February 11–13, 2020 Jacob K. Javits Center Fall/Winter 2020
@ExtraItaStyle #ExtraordinaryItalianStyle
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LEGENDARY STYLE SINCE 1889
Find a salon at Moroccanoil.com Bluemercury, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Sephora & Luxury Resorts
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TIME TO
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SAVE TIME DURING NYFW REGISTER FOR YOUR BUYER WRISTBAND AND APP ACCESS AT COTERIEFASHIONEVENTS.COM
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CONVERSATIONS
& PRESENTATIONS O N T H E C O T E R I E L I V E S TA G E
TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 11TH THE STATE OF FASHION AND INSIGHTS FROM THE MODERN RETAIL COLLECTIVE
2:30 PM - 3: 30 PM
Hear how technology is becoming increasingly more relevant in fashion and the shopping experience. Insights from Mall of America, McKinsey & Company, and Kendra Scott.
PRESENTED BY SOLE COMMERCE: WHAT IT’S LIKE TO WALK IN MY SHOES
4:0 0 PM - 5: 0 0 PM
Nicky Hilton Rothschild, Tina Craig (@bagsnob), and Aliza Licht discuss their journeys in fashion and how shoes can inspire, empower, and represent a memory point in lives and careers.
WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12TH FASHION SNOOPS BUYER TREND PRESENTATION FALL/WINTER 2020-21
1:0 0 PM - 2: 0 0 PM
Led by Fashion Snoops’ Hallie Spradlin, learn about upcoming trends in women’s apparel, accessories, and footwear.
MONETIZING INSTAGRAM, FASHION’S MOST POWERFUL PLATFORM
2:30 PM - 3: 30 PM
Top social voices provide valuable insight into how influencers, brands, and retailers can adapt to the ever-changing social media landscape. Featuring Beca Alexander, Tessa Barton (@tezza), Wendy Nguyen (@wendyslookbook), Christie Ferrari, and Idalia Salsamend.
THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 13TH GOOD4FASHION: THE RELEVANCE OF RECYCLED AND UPCYCLED MATERIALS
1:0 0 PM - 2: 0 0 PM
Industry experts discuss the importance of recycled & upcycled fabrics and sustainable living. Moderated by WWD.
ALL SESSIONS ARE INCLUDED WITH REGISTRATION North Concourse @ 37th Street entrance, Javits Center
SHOT WHERE THE BUSH MEETS THE BEACH, JUST SOUTH OF SYDNEY ON FRIDAY, JANUARY 24TH, 2020 PHOTOGRAPHER: NICK TSINDOS STYLIST: THOMAS TOWNSEND MODEL: OLIVIA THORNTON HANDBAG: HOLIDAY TRADING & CO. TOP & SHORT: SPELL AND THE GYPSY COLLECTIVE
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Chic
“What’s the dish, Winnie!?”
moments
Arielle Kebbel
Stylish Supper The Daily and Hervé Léger kicked off NYFW with a fabulous dinner at Scarpetta. Mangia!
Jessica Wang
Winnie Harlow
Photography by hannah turner-harts Haute feast alert! Your Daily, Hervé Léger creative director Christian Juul Nielsen, and our cover girl Winnie Harlow cohosted a din to start the week off right. The meal began with yellowtail sashimi, creamy polenta with fricassee of truffled mushrooms, and roast beet salad. Next up: a three-part pasta course, including Scarpetta’s famous house-made spaghetti with tomato and basil, short rib and bone marrow agnolotti, and duck and foie gras ravioli. Chicken, beef, and branzino were on deck next, followed by a dessert trifecta. The sweet highlight? Market strawberries with basil granita and cream.
Recipe for soirée success: a divine menu and a spectacularly fun crowd
Christian Juul Nielsen and Sophie Sumner Eddie Roche and Alina Baikova
Vlada Roslyakova Megan Williams
Jamie Frankel and Nina Agdal
shannon hamilton (1)
Chris Whelan and Cora Emmanuel
Gershona Annor, Manny Ezugwu, and Shannon Hamilton
F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Marianne Fonseca
Pritika Swarup Sofie Rovenstine
Samirah Raheem
Devon Windsor
Aww! Daily birthday girl Alex Dickerson
Logan Paul and Josie Canseco
special thanks to‌ Scarpetta at The James Hotel, FlowerBx, and Morgan Miller Bradley
Meghan Roche
Marija Zezelj
shannon hamilton (1)
Mariah Strongin
FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M
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scene
NYFW doesn’t often coincide with the Oscars—the last overlap was 2015—but when it does, Tom Ford takes to L.A. His show on Friday had a disco ball twirling above, and so many front row stars: Catherine O’Hara (we love you, Moira!), Kate Hudson, J. Lo, Renée Zellweger, Miley Cyrus, Demi Moore, Jon Hamm. l Bulgari’s B.zero1 party on Thursday was model heaven, par for the course with Alex Wang, from Candice to Carolyn to Daphne. “I truly feel like a million bucks!” exclaimed Indya Moore, one of the campaign stars. l Rejoice! Insta account @fashionweekfrog is back with riotous Kermit memes about Fashion Month survival. We feel so seen!
daily double
Hailey Bieber
Sashalee Pallagi
Our Daily Palm Beach team needs a transitional wardrobe that takes us from New York to Paris to Palm Beach in time for our March 2 launch. Get ready for splendid bashes around the island! Chic Lesson: 75 degrees and sunny in Palm Beach is about more than an easy, breezy sundress. Our secret? Layered looks that scream catwalk, not boardwalk, Luckily our Daily HQ is tucked in an oasis of chic, the Esplanade Palm Beach (150 Worth Avenue, if you want to join us for a glass of rosé next month). After we’re done dishing on all the news you can use, feel free to shop at Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Akris, Pucci. Make a date now, The Daily dance card’s getting full! PROMOTION
ParTYING! With CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
What are you up to post-show? I’m going to the Oscars for one day. I’ll get my girls ready, then go to the Vanity Fair party. Who do you hope to see there? It’s a long list! Every major actress you can think of is going to Vanity Fair. It’s going to be a good one.
DISHING! WITH CANDICE HUFFINE
Any fun Oscars traditions? One year, I got really extreme and based all the dishes at a dinner party around nominated movies. Life of Pi was nominated, so we made an elaborate scallop ceviche dish, and for No Country for Old Men, I made a rustic lamb dish. It was so intense, but fun. That’s the epitome of me: above and beyond, always.
PLUS!
Lily Aldridge, E! Oscars red carpet host, on best dressed predictions… “Honestly, the nominees are all so amazing and have such great style. We’re just going to have to wait and see!”
DISCUSS: YOUR OSCARS PREDICTIONS!
CHIC CHAT! News Quiz! What is R&T? A) A hip DTC umbrella start-up, incepted at The Wing, obv B) Hearst’s new luxury print spin-off of Road & Track mag C) An insurance company D) Rum and Tonic: the Aperol Spritz of 2020! Answer: B
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A few sash-sporting pageant stars took to Spring Studios for one of the thought-provoking NYFW: The Talks events: “The Evolving Standard of Beauty,” featuring Endeavor CMO Bozoma Saint John, Miss Universe Zozibini Tunzi, Miss USA Cheslie Kryst, Miss Teen USA Kaliegh Garris, and Miss America Nia Franklin.
Will Peltz: I’d love to see Parasite Fernando Garcia: I was win, it probably will win really happy to see Jojo Rabbit get attention. Also I hope Best Foreign Film at least. The movie was just so Parasite gets a lot of love. sick. I really hope it wins Laura: Me too! We’ll probably something! watch the Oscars with everyone in the office, because we have to work that night! Jeff Jon Kortajarena: Rudes, I truly believe Pedro L’Agence: Almodóvar’s Pain and Glory I very much liked is going to win for Best Joker. It was dark, but Foreign Film. Pedro, I’m I think his acting was rooting for you! top-notch. I might be leaning that way.
courtesy bfa.com (12); getty images (6); patrickmcmullan.com (4); imaxtre (2); shutterstock (2); nicholas mele (1); all others courtesy
palm beach dispatch!
2/8/20 3:03 PM
cheers! What’s the front row sipping this season? Bubbly, obvi, like Josh Cellars Prosecco, with pear, green apple, and citrus notes. Red vino fan? Try Bellacosa, a velvety, complex Cab. For a stiff, dark pour, consider Bib & Tucker Bourbon.
FLOWER POWER! Fendi fêted its joyful “Solar Dream” Spring ’20 collection with chicsters like Zendaya, Katie Holmes, Winnie Harlow, Barbara Palvin, Soo Joo Park, and more.
OBSESSIONS! The Daily editors are crazy for Dr. Barbara Sturm’s amazing skincare line. Divine!
The Daily Wonders… Which TV show Brandusa Niro are you definitely Editor in Chief, CEO bingewatching Chief Content Officer post-NYFW? Eddie Roche “I Am a Killer. My true-crime obsession is epic!”
Managing Editor Tangie Silva Creative Director Dean Quigley Contributing Executive Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Digital Director Charles Manning Fashion News Editor Aria Darcella
DIAMOND DOGS!
Editors-at-Large Charlotte and Sophie Bickley Contributing Art Director Teresa Platt
WITH REBECCA ROMIJN
LUXE LAV ALERT! The loo isn’t the most glamorous topic, but Poo-Pourri is changing that with its syntheticsfree scented restroom sprays, which are backstage this season at Jonathan Simkhai, Chromat, Collina Strada, and Claudia Li.
Contributing Photo Editor & Photographer Hannah Turner-Harts Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists George Maier, Nola Romano
NEWLYWED BLISS! WITH DEVON WINDSOR
How’s married life treating you? It’s exactly like it was before I was married. We already lived together, so it wasn’t a big transition. It feels the same! What was your wedding like? It was an insane amount of planning. We custom-designed and brought in every piece of furniture to St. Barts. We imported 11 crates. It’s a hard place to get to. You have to fly to Puerto Rico or St. Maarten, then get on a little plane. What’s harder: walking down the aisle, or walking the runway? Runway is more nerve-racking, but the aisle is more emotional. Where did you honeymoon? We went to Africa and the Maldives. We had the best time ever!
“Sex Education, Season 2!”
Editor in Chief & President The Daily Front Row Palm Beach Lizzi Bickford Chief Marketing Officer Alex Dickerson Fashion Publishing Director Monica Forman Marketing Manager Nandini Vaid “The Mandalorian”
Digital Operations Daniel Chivu
“The Goop Lab”
Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor Intern Nicol Maciejewska
L’Avenue at Saks’ first anniversary bash
To advertise, call (646) 768-8101 Or e-mail: advertising@dailyfrontrow.com The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright © 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 810 Seventh Avenue, Ste. 400A, New York, NY 10019.
PROMOTION
PARTY GIRL The two-tone smoky eye made its return to the runway at L’Agence. “She’s pretty much partied in her makeup all night,” Grace Lee, lead artist for Maybelline New York, said of the look. She smudged one shade of shadow along the lower lash lines then blended the other shadow across the lids, finishing with a touch of Baby Lips Moisturizing Lip Balm in Quenched for sheen. Time to hit the town!
BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Color TattooStudio 24HR Cream Eyeshadow in Risk Maker and Knockout, $7.99 each, maybelline.com
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“The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel”
PRO TIP: Apply a burgundy shade to lower lashes to make blue and green eyes pop.
On the cover
Gigi Hadid on the runway at Jean Paul Gaultier’s final show, photographed by Getty Images
getty images/noam galai (13); darian dicianno/neil rasmus/bfa.com (8); shutterstock (5); all others courtesy
How did your bauble line, Charlie Dolly, come about? I thought, “Why do we have such clunky jewelry settings?” I always wanted to wear loose diamonds. Charlie and Dolly are my daughters’ names. They’re my sparkly little creatures! What else are you up to? I’m hosting American Rescue Dog Show on Hallmark Channel. It celebrates rescue dogs in categories like Best in Wiggle Butt, Best in Snoring, Best in Belly Rubs, Best in Couch Potato. The ones that really get you are Best in Special Needs and Best in Senior. There’s not a dry eye in the house.
“Schitt’s Creek…the last season”
2/8/20 2:00 PM
THE INDUSTRY NEW YORK
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Roots,
Revisited
Bönström reflected on her own childhood looks for Zadig & Voltaire’s latest collection.
That
’70 s Show Zadig & Voltaire took to the Ritz in Paris in September, and now— lucky for us!—the hip brand has returned to NYC this season. Creative director CECILIA BÖNSTRÖM explains why she’s jazzed to be back in town, how her own groovy outfits as a kid in Sweden inspired the new show, and more.
What brought you back to NYFW? I’ve been impatient to come back. I know how important New York Fashion Week is to the brand, and the energy in New York is so important to me. We weren’t here last year, because of the Kate Moss bag I collaborated on with her. We launched it to more of a European market, so we showed in Paris. Not because I was tired of New York! I’m happy to be back. The challenge for me is to show an even stronger collection than ever, because I wasn’t here last season. The pressure is higher to show something super strong. How did you select the show venue? We chose a space in Chelsea with a huge window facing the street that we’ll leave open without curtains. I like to bring in the New York vibe and energy, and have people passing by be able to see the show. It’s a beautiful space, and we’re leaving it very raw—windows open, no curtains. A moment of truth. The collection is all about rawness. Did any recent travels inspire the new collection? I traveled in my mind! I went back to my childhood.
When I was in Sweden at my parents’ house recently, I went through the albums of my dear mother, who’s very organized and has the year printed on each photo book—she gave me my mathematical brain, which keeps my feet on the earth. I stumbled on my 7-yearold moments in 1977; the memories are beautiful, and the way she dressed me, my sister, and brother were strong. At that time, there was no social media, there were few fashion magazines, no fast fashion chains on every corner, and I was surprised and impressed by my mother’s style preferences. How did your mom dress you and your siblings? There was not one morning going off to school that my brother, sister, and I didn’t have an amazing look. She apparently put a lot of energy in dressing us in the morning. Not at all what I do with my kids in the morning with three sons in Paris! I’m more rock ’n’ roll, and quick. Revisiting my childhood years through these photos was a moment of truth, and the heart of the inspiration for this collection—the paisley wallpaper, flared jeans, patchwork leather, and all the colors the ’70s are famous for. Sometimes
she dressed us with a pop of color, like red stockings under a trench coat. How does your new collection channel this aesthetic? There’s leather and suits; it’s very masculine. There’s a lot of gray, brown, cognac, and caramel colors, with pops of red and blue to give a little electric energy on the catwalk. Did you cull inspiration from any specific pics? There’s a picture with my brother in an oversize, light blue down jacket, and I’m wearing an oversize fur coat of my father’s over my shoulders with a big cashmere beanie. Those are definitely looks that will hit the catwalk, straight from my childhood. Did this walk down memory lane compel you to dress your own kids differently? No, I wear tight black jeans, and black and brown cashmere sweaters—that’s my uniform. When you work in fashion, you want to come home to a simple, less-is-more place. It’s a dark blue, dark gray, and white T-shirt and some Zadig or New Balance sneakers on my boys. I don’t experiment with their style. When they were little babies and had nothing
gaËtan bernard (1); all others courtesy
By ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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to say, I went crazy—they were wearing leopard and cashmere overalls. Sounds adorable! As a former model, are you very involved in the casting process? Totally. When we did our last show at the Ritz for the Kate Moss launch, I had such a clear idea of how I wanted the models to walk, I opened the catwalk in the rehearsal moments. I really showed how to walk! I’m lucky that I did catwalk modeling in my beginning years, and was also a fashion model for photos. I know exactly what they go through. They can be shy, and I know exactly how to talk to them, handle it, and make them feel best. It depends on the music and mood, too. It’s helpful to have been a model before. It’s just luck. It wasn’t really planned. All of it adds up and has really helped me. What else did you glean from modeling? I know how to adapt to all situations and people. That’s what modeling teaches—you travel around the world, and work with different people every week. You prepare for all situations. It’s a beautiful school of life. Zadig always does phenomenal leather. What’s on tap in that department this season? It’s true, Zadig started out 20 years ago with a good biker jacket! Now, I’ve transformed the leather we work with—it’s a thinner leather that we purposely wrinkle for 24 hours, so it looks like you slept in your boyfriend’s shirt. Simple biker jackets are still part of our identity, but they’ve become thinner and more chic. We’ve created a wardrobe of leather— shirts, skirts, dresses, and shorts. Every season, we have leather on several designs, but this season, it was very important. We worked on thicker, shinier leather for shirts and trousers for a sharp, raw look. We also used an effect to make some things more vintage and used-looking. There are a lot of new shapes and new leathers in the show. Do you dress differently in New York versus Paris? New York is a melting pot—so international and multiethnic. It’s a beautiful city, because it’s where people really mix most and there’s the best style. It’s inspirational to me, so I dare more in New York—I’ll wear a oversize, long, colored fake fur coat, with sneakers and a beanie. In Paris, I’m a bit more classic.
A few standout looks from Zadig & Voltaire, Spring 2020.
gaËtan bernard (1); all others courtesy
How does New York get your creative juices flowing? It’s a city with history and immigration—a mix of interesting, beautiful human beings. It’s extremely inspiring to me. There is a sense of freedom in New York. I love Paris, but it’s more like a village; it has a smaller feeling. Do you prefer the Metro in Paris or the subway in NYC? Both. I feel free and younger when I’m just on the subway on my own. It’s just the easiest in both cities! Do you spend any time in Brooklyn? Rarely. Only for vintage shopping at Stella Dallas. I don’t have time! I’m a Soho or Central Park girl. What are your downtown and uptown haunts? I love to bike around Central Park. I also get facials at Teresa Tarmey—she’s amazing. She has a location in London, too. I used to take the Eurostar there from Paris just to see her. Now, every time I’m in New York, I set up a meeting with her. I also do barre classes at Exhale’s Madison Avenue location. It changed my life! Barre is amazingly effective. What’s your favorite breakfast in the Big Apple?
I love Sant Ambroeus for a sugar brioche and a cafe latte, either on Madison Ave or Lafayette. Any go-to bars? I’m not a bar person, but I like to sit at the bar at Serafina on East 61st Street and Madison for white wine and pasta at 4 p.m. when I land in New York, jet lagged. It’s the first thing I do! That’s a great tradition! Where do you tend to grab meals? I love Blue Ribbon downtown, and the Greek fish restaurant, Estiatorio Milos, is always good. Or I’ll have a quinoa salad at the Mercer’s lobby, just watching people coming in and out. The Mercer has prime people-watching! Any favorite NYC museums and art galleries? I love the gallery of my Swedish colleague Per Skarstedt; he opened a beautiful space uptown, and the Gagosian, obviously. I also like Dominique Lévy’s gallery. I’m a Guggenheim girl, too. How will you unwind post-show this season? By having a great dinner at the Grill, and then I fly back to Paris to go skiing in the French Alps.
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Mane Coif
attraction Confidential
The
Art of Hair
How long have you been working with Kérastase? A little over three years. I started as a Kérastase ambassador in my salon, and when Kérastase started seeking audition submissions to become one of their artists, I jumped at the opportunity. Tell us more! Each year, Kérastase invites top hairdressers working within their network of salons to apply to become official Kérastase artists, which means you can educate on behalf of the brand and serve as an overarching brand advocate. I submitted a video of myself speaking on camera and creating an updo, and they chose from there. How did you get your start in this industry? My mother was a hairstylist, but I never thought I’d follow in her footsteps. I’m a Marine military brat, and when I was in high school I wanted to go to Virginia Tech through the Corps of Cadets, graduate as an officer in the Air Force, become a fighter pilot and fly stealth planes, and then go on to work for NASA. There’s just one problem. I have horrible eyesight—Lasik is definitely in my future. Oh, and
I’m not great at physics. Both are necessities, if you want to do that kind of work. So, instead, I went to community college, not knowing what I wanted to major in, and a friend helped me get a job as a shampoo assistant where she worked. My first staff meeting was at their brand-new design academy. The second I walked through the doors I had this overwhelming sensation that this was where I needed to be. That was more than 13 years ago—I wouldn’t change it for anything. I get to make people feel great about the way they look just by playing with their hair. It’s quite an amazing feeling. Is that your favorite part of the job? Absolutely. I love making people feel great about how they look and getting to be a part of my clients’ lives. I see them go through challenges, successes, relationships, and kids. That is honestly the best feeling. As for actual skills that are my favorite? I absolutely love formal styling—bridal, prom, updos. What’s your proudest professional moment so far? Being asked to educate at Kérastase’s annual training this year. Kérastase launched an Ambassador program, and I was given the opportunity to teach our Ambassador trainers, alongside phenomenal artists. Have you started using the new Genesis collection yet? I got to start testing it out before it launched and
Emily Ratajkowski takes in the view at the campaign shoot. Ethereal, non?
have been so impressed. It smells amazing. The fragrance lasts throughout the day, and I’m always getting compliments on how my hair smells. I see so much less hair in my brush, and overall my hair is so much stronger, softer, shinier, and less tangled. I shared it with a few clients, and they were instantly obsessed and made me promise to text them the second it comes out. The Genesis collection was created to combat hair fall. What is hair fall? Is it something you see a lot of? There are actually two types of hair fall. The first type is biological, and caused by things like genetics or medical conditions. The second type is when your hair is literally breaking off, often due to factors like brushing, excessive heat, and over-styling. I see so much of both in the salon, especially breakage from brushing. It’s great to have something really combating that specific issue. What’s your favorite product from the new line? The Serum Fortifiant is definitely the star of this launch. It’s so easy to add to your daily routine. Massage it into your scalp once a day, and it helps strengthen the hair fiber and prevent hair fall due to breakage from brushing. It’s not a styling product, so it doesn’t weigh down the hair or leave it feeling oily. What’s the biggest mistake people make with hair? That’s a tough one. Every person and type of hair is different. But I’d say probably the biggest mistake is thinking those at-home bleach kits are a good idea. It most certainly is not a good idea, no matter what anyone on YouTube or some beauty forum tells you. Are any at-home treatments actually worth doing? Masques are wonderful. For example, Kérastase masques are super concentrated versions of their Fondants. I also love Homelab; it’s their take-home Fusio-dose treatment regimen. It’s super customized. What is your biggest haircare or styling pet peeve? Using a hot tool or blow-drying the hair without heat protection. It’s literally like sunscreen. Not in the sense that it has SPF, but in the sense that you wouldn’t (or shouldn’t) go laying out in the sun all day without sunscreen because you’d fry! It’s basically the same concept with your hair. If
courtesy
Kérastase artist Ashley Sandgren, a stylist at PR at Partners Salon in Gainesville, Virginia, didn’t grow up dreaming of a career in hairstyling, but now she can’t imagine anything better. THE DAILY caught up with this rising hair star to learn more about what makes her tick.
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Kérastase’s beautiful current campaign.
you don’t have proper heat protection on your hair, you’re just going to do damage. How many times should you wash your hair weekly? It depends on your lifestyle. If you go to the gym regularly and sweat often, you’ll need to wash your hair more than someone who doesn’t sweat so much. Also, someone who has overproductive sebaceous glands, may need to wash their hair more frequently. If you could get your hands on any celeb’s strands... I’d love to do Helen Mirren’s hair. She’s stunning. Or maybe Blake Lively. I feel like she’d be super cool to talk to—although, if the opportunity presented itself, I think I’d probably lose the ability to speak. How do you feel about bangs? It depends on the shape of your face. Just be patient when the time comes that you get tired of them and want to grow them out. It’s truly a labor of love. Any trends that you expect will be big in 2020? I feel like softer “melty” color is here to stay. As well as vivid hues. The Pantone color of 2020 is a beautiful blue, so I’d expect to see that shade more in hair. Are there any throwback trends you hope get resurrected? Victory rolls! I’m a sucker for pin-up hair. What about trends that ought to stay firmly in the past? I pray early 2000s chunky highlights never return. What’s your worst hair faux pas? Mall bangs! The kind that come from the top of your head and covered your forehead. Mine looked like a sausage roll. I had to use so much hairspray to get them to stay in place. But the hairspray gave me acne on my forehead, so I would use even more to ensure they didn’t move and my acne stayed hidden, which would cause even worse acne. I was in middle school and didn’t know any better, until a friend of mine said, “You know, if you’d grow out your bangs, your acne would clear up.” I was mortified she knew about the secret acne under my bangs. Luckily, we were close. What’s your ultimate coif advice? Your hair is an investment, so take measures to protect it. Use the Kérastase products your stylist prescribes for at-home care. Your hair is the only accessory you can’t take off if you don’t like it, so take care of it.
no stress tresses Tired of seeing copious amounts of hair on your brush? Kérastase has the answer! Their new Genesis line is the first dual-action, fortifying haircare collection specifically designed to prevent hair fall due to breakage from brushing and overstyling. “It’s normal for people to lose anywhere from 50 to 200 hairs a day,” explains dermatologist Dr. Laura Scott, who participated in the development of the new product range. “Because all our individual hairs are going through their life cycle at different stages, hair falls from random areas around the scalp. If hair falls more than the usual daily amount, becomes focused in a pattern or discrete area, or results from significant breakage of the shaft, that is abnormal and something to be addressed.” Genesis features a potent formula complex with personalized in-salon and at-home protocols to cut down on hair fall due to breakage from brushing instantly, as well as over time with continued use. It also smells absolutely heavenly, thanks to top notes of bergamot zest, cedar, and lime, blended with basil, rose, vetiver, musk, and tonka beans.
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Downtown
cool
On The
Bowery
On Wednesday, L’Agence was a step ahead of the fashion crowd, presenting its Fall 2020 collection two days before NYFW’s official start. The label took over the top of the Bowery Hotel, a lush spot that captured the retroglam-rock vibe of the clothes. Through the crowd of guests THE DAILY managed to grab L’Agence CEO and creative director JEFF RUDES for a quick chat about the new line, and his Valentine’s Day plans. courtesy
By ARIA DARCELLA Photography by caroline fiss
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“this season, we took a fresh approach to men’s tailoring with a feminine attitude. suiting plays a central role in the l’agence woman’s wardrobe.”
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Silk suiting, romantic prints, and sharp blazers at L’Agence’s Fall 2020 show at the Bowery Hotel
Tell all about the new collection! What was on your moodboard? This season, we took a fresh approach to men’s tailoring with a feminine attitude. Suiting plays a central role in the wardrobe of the L’Agence woman’s wardrobe. Our blazers pair effortlessly with signature denim, which has become a cornerstone of the L’Agence range. Silk separates in romantic prints convey an elevated ease and a savoir faire sentiment that bridges a West Coast ease and a Parisian attitude. How do you guys change it up from season to season? It took five years to get our classics, which is the perfect shirt story. The dress story, the blazers. Our success is translating them into the next season. We use that philosophy and then 20 to 25 percent each season are new bodies. But they relate to what we’re doing really easily. You wouldn’t think, “Oh, my God, that’s something new. I haven’t seen it before.” It is when it gets a little bit more intimate, and closer to the collection that you’ll see newness. But our success is taking what we’ve had and done well with and evolving it in exciting new fabrics. And it looks newer, and more exciting than any new thing we can create. Why was the Bowery Hotel the ideal setting for the presentation? The Bowery was the perfect backdrop to showcase the collection because it creates a rock ’n’ roll vibe. Do you hang around this area at all? Kind of, yes. I’m from L.A., but I know the neighborhood well.
Any go-to spots? I was at Indochine for dinner last night, which I really enjoy. It was a great fashion crowd. [I also like] the Mercer Kitchen, and the bar upstairs. How do you treat yourself when you’re on the East Coast? I’ve got one appointment after another. I treat myself well when I get home after dinner. What denim trends should we be on the lookout for this season? Wide wale corduroy in ’70s inspired jeans, dark saturated denim, and straight legs. What things were you drawn to in the ’70s? Bell-bottoms, platform shoes, cool corduroy. It was an easy way of dressing. Congrats on the recent opening of your new Soho location! How did you celebrate its launch? We had a soft launch in December and will be celebrating with a store opening party in March. You helped us celebrate our Art Basel issue in December. Tell us about the night! Introducing the Bert Stern capsule collection at Art Basel, of course, would sound expected; however, it was quite unexpected. Hosting a creative guest list and clothing the girls in Stern was a highlight of the evening. [The collection] has been hugely successful. It’s about Marilyn Monroe, an iconic American figure. It’s about a famous shoot that Bert Stern did with Marilyn, two weeks before she died, called “The Last Sitting.” Back in the day it was Avedon, Penn, and Bert Stern. He was one of the greats, and also shot lots of Vogue covers. So doing it with Bert’s
background was also very interesting for us. Many of our guests were getting their first look at the Stern collection. What kinds of feedback did you get? Our first foray into a brand collaboration was received with an overwhelming response. Stores were texting our sales agents while the event was taking place at Art Basel. People just love the vibe of how we did it and style it. They loved that it was focused on T-shirts, but then we had the jackets and the jeans and the silk pieces. But the strength really is the T-shirt with Marilyn’s image on it. The last time we chatted, you mentioned plans to launch bags and shoes. Any updates? Our new tote bag is in our L’Agence stores, and shoes arrive in early April. They were both designed specifically for our customer. If you could have any model or celebrity be a L’Agence brand ambassador, who would it be and why? Kate Beckinsale, because she has an elegant, cool attitude about her. What are you and your wife doing for Valentine’s Day? It’s always a surprise, so unfortunately I must stay tight-lipped about it.
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Beauty Wisdom
TO THE MAX Parsons created looks for more than 100 models at Gaultier’s final show.
Saving
Makeup isn’t just a profession for Maybelline New York global artist Erin Parsons. It’s spawned a self-described addiction to collecting vintage makeup and ads for old-school products. Parsons fills us in on the glam obsession, working on Jean Paul Gaultier’s sublime final show, the no-makeup look, and more. By TANGIE SILVa
You started out working at makeup counters, then ended up as an assistant to Pat McGrath, right? I really learned how to do makeup on every skin tone, age, and personality by working at counters. That prepped me for the world of fashion because sometimes you’re on set with 100 people! You have to really come in with a lot of knowledge. When I worked with Pat on shows, she booked me on an Italian Vogue shoot and it was this photo shoot with 50 models. I worked in retail for so long and loved wearing makeup myself, so I came in already knowing how to do makeup. What sort of sage advice did Pat give you? She never had to say it, because you can learn it just from being around Pat. She’s really funny and outgoing. She’s such a people person. So on top of being super talented, creative, and a fearless makeup artist, she also has this amazing personality. I think when you team up all of those assets, that is how
you become successful in this industry. It’s hard to be successful if you’re a wallflower. What I learned from her was, if a client says “We don’t like that,” You don’t say, “Why? I love that!” You just happily change it because the clients have their vision, and you’re trying to fulfill that vision. I found you have to be agreeable, have fun, and keep people comfortable. Is that your approach to tackling campaign shoots? I love working with Maybelline. Everybody is so fun. They just give 100 percent to everything that they do. By the day of the shoot, I’ve already had a call at least three days before. We’ve gone through everything—styling, hair, the models, the products, the looks. Sometimes we get a product where we have to do trial and error until we see what works; then it looks amazing in the end. Speaking of products, what are your current Maybelline New York favorites? I feel like I can’t live without the TattooStudio
eyeliner pencils! I love using them as a lay down for shadows, so I’ll blend them, or use them as eyeliner. They’re so pigmented, and when they’re on, they don’t move, so you don’t have to worry about creasing or touching up. Most Maybelline products are like that; they’re just not going to budge. I love the new Cheek Heat Gel-Cream blush, too. It’s a really gorgeous, sheer, seamless cheek color that you cannot mess up. I love when products are for the everyday person, versus just a makeup artist–type tool. One of my new favorites is The Falsies Lash Lift mascara. I love when mascara doesn’t drop your curl because I have really straight eyelashes. So you curl the lash, you put this mascara on, it keeps the curl up. I want it in my kit forever! And there’s a new product coming out that I can’t talk about but have been using on myself. It’s so cool. Nobody has anything like it. It’s different; almost a nonmakeup item. When it comes out it’ll definitely be the product I’m talking about. The “no-makeup makeup” look is definitely trending… Oh, yeah! Influencers or people on YouTube who do full coverage beatdowns on Instagram, it’s so cool looking, in the right light, with a filter. But in daylight, you see a different thing. Now, meet-andgreets are happening; before it was just a social media thing. People are starting to go, “Maybe layering on three pounds of concealer foundation powder and then highlighter is not really making the skin look as good as we thought it does.” It’s still great. It’s just great for a certain time and place. For
getty images (3); shutterstock (3); all others courtesy
Face
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MUST HAVES From timeless classics to new launches, Maybelline New York’s hit offerings keep coming.
daytime, people just want to make their skin look luminous—less foundation, powder and concealer, and a lot of moisturizer and cream highlighter. It’s more about looking healthy and full of life, versus deadening the skin by putting on too much matte product. Faux freckles seem popular now too, like at the Jean Paul Gaultier couture show you just worked on. If you put on a lot of foundation, to bring back [the appearance of ] your skin, you can add “freckles.” I know major models who do this. It brings realness back to skin. It’s also becoming a more artistic thing. Now people are doing it with jewels and other stuff. I did that years ago, with glitter and jewels. It’s finding new ways to be artistic with your face; it’s not just about eyes and lips! You can play over the nose, or on the forehead maximizing space on the face. Tell us about Gaultier’s final show! It was pretty nuts. I was doing a photo shoot with Issa Lish in Paris, and she left the shoot to go to Gaultier for a fitting, he was like, “Oh, my God, I love your makeup! Who did your makeup?” How insane is that? That never happens. I mean, I couldn’t believe it. I did one of his shows and brought this crazy chrome product and he was like, “Whoa, I love it!” He said, “I’ll see you next season.” Then I found out it was his last show! I was heartbroken because we just started working together, and I love working with him. He’s such a fun, joyous person with so much energy. We had such an amazing time. I developed a lot of looks for him, but the models might have three
“it’s hard to be successful if you’re a wallflower.… i found you have to be agreeable, have fun, and keep people comfortable.” outfits so the look might not work in every outfit. I was figuring it out on the day of the show. On the day of?! That’s why a lot of girls might’ve just had a red lip or they have the natural look or the speckle freckle look. It was tough; it was an intense day, and we were there for hours. There were a lot of celebrities, and a lot of other makeup artists working on them. That dropped down my count from 120 to maybe 110 or 105. And when I’m doing shows, running around, I have to focus on all my assistants and everything they’re doing. It’s quite difficult because then you really have to make sure that everybody is doing what they’re supposed to do. And that their books get approved. I think I had more than 40, maybe 45 assistants. It’s understanding that you have to be a director and you can’t always do all the makeup. You can just do a little bit here and there, and you have to make sure everybody knows what they’re doing, feels confident, and that the model in the seat is confident with her artist. Let’s talk about you! Anything you’re obsessed with? I collect vintage makeup. I always said if I’m ever able to make money one day—I’ve been pretty poor my whole life—I was going to do it. I’ve come into times the past few years where I can afford to do this. I also wanted to have a Vogue collection. I
have from 1897 all the way to 1997, not every single issue, but I have thousands of issues and I do try to complete full years when I can. I started seeing these old ads for makeup in my Vogue issues and was like, “Oh, my God, that’s so good.” Then I read Lisa Eldridge’s book, Face Paint, on the history of makeup and I was so fascinated. I started reading more history books and going through my collection and thinking, “Hmm, where can I find some of this stuff?” I started looking online and found so much of it. Now, it’s out of control. It’s an addiction! My ultimate goal is to have some type of atelier where I can display everything and people can come see it all, like a museum. Have you ever tried out a vintage beauty product? An eye shadow from 1920. I needed to see what it looked like on me. It’s always some type of greasepaint formula and I go, “Oh, my God. Jean Harlow possibly wore this color! How crazy is that?” There was an auction where I won some of Mae West’s makeup, and Elizabeth Taylor’s, too. Now it’s a whole other collection starting for me. That’s why I haven’t shared too much online because I’m afraid a lot of people will start bidding. This is a real mania. But there’s a sort of a thrill when you’re bidding online at an auction and you win. I mean it’s kind of a rush. A rush to the bank account for sure!
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Eco
endeavors
Guess Gets
Green
In 2020, caring about sustainability and striving to do as little harm as possible to the planet have become essential across many industries at long last, and various fashion brands are doing their part. To wit, GUESS is making a big, multipronged commitment to Mother Earth. Here’s how.
EXEC INSIGHT! with GUESS CEO Carlos Alberini ambitious goals and are making big efforts to evolve further. Sustainability and purpose-driven efforts are now a key part of our strategic business plan. I strongly believe that this is key to truly and rapidly transforming our business for good. What are some challenges you had about working in a more eco-conscious way? Our products and supply chains are complex, and therefore, so is sustainability. Even when you accomplish great milestones, like we just did with an increase in the use of sustainable materials by more than 15 percent in just one year, there’s always more to do and more to learn to make a bigger impact. And the job here keeps getting to be more challenging, as the definition of sustainability is a moving target with higher standards. What has been the most exciting part of this process for you? The most exciting part has been seeing the passion in our employees. People at GUESS are highly motivated to make a positive difference within their spheres of influence, and this is important because sustainability must be embedded in every role to be truly authentic and effective. Sustainability has become a common goal we’re all moving toward, and it has been exciting to see our people’s commitment and their relentless dedication toward achieving this
goal. It adds even more meaning, and more love for our brand, every day we’re at work. How else are you working toward making GUESS more sustainable overall? We’re working diligently to create more holistically sustainable product—including denim—in partnership with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Make Fashion Circular Initiative. We’re focusing with our vendors on key fabrics and materials that are eco-friendly and processes that minimize water consumption. Sustainability is now a key measurement of vendor effectiveness in our vendor scorecards. We’re also working on ambitious targets for greenhouse-gas-emissions reduction, for both our direct business and supply chain operations. Any other eco-minded measures you’re taking? I’m also quite proud of our strong sustainability reporting program. By focusing on sustainability metrics, we’re able to convey the importance of these issues to people within and outside of the business. We’re one of the only apparel companies that has their sustainability reporting externally assured, by KPMG—a “Big Four” accounting firm. It’s not enough just to make change, but you must be able to show evidence of change in a transparent, factdriven way.
Em Rehm (9); Dawn Dicarlo (1); all others courtesy
What inspired you to make your eco pledge? I have dedicated my professional life to the world of fashion and retail. All the products our industry develops, and their distribution, have an impact on the environment and I feel an enormous responsibility to change our practices to minimize the negative impact we create to protect this beautiful world for the generations that will inherit it. In my opinion, this change needs to start with our family, both at home and in the work environment. At home, my wife and I have five children and three grandchildren. We’re committed to impacting change for them. At GUESS, I consider our team my family, and we’re lucky to have many passionate people who also share the responsibility to change practices to make this world a better place. Was there a specific turning point for you in terms of this issue? When I first read about the concept of conscious capitalism, I realized how important it is for companies to meet the needs of all the stakeholders in the business, including our environment. I am convinced that businesses can make positive—and critically needed—environmental change. When I came back to GUESS [as CEO], I was impressed and inspired by the progress the company had made in sustainability, and in the past year, we set even more
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ECO CHIC FEAST! On January 28, 2020, GUESS invited a group of the fashion industry’s top editors and stylists to a delicious vegetarian breakfast at The Fat Radish, on the Lower East Side, to preview the all-new Smart GUESS eco collection, which hits stores this spring. GUESS’s director of sustainability, Jaclyn Allen, was on hand to discuss the company’s evolving sustainability efforts as they work to educate their employees and reduce their carbon footprint by focusing on more ecofriendly manufacturing techniques and materials, and bringing their greenhouse gas emission goals in line with what scientists say is essential to fight the current climate crisis. GUESS decorated the space using locally sourced, organic vegetables, which guests were encouraged to take with them after the event, along with reusable bamboo cutlery and metal straws. Guests were also asked to bring in unwanted pieces from their own closets, which GUESS, in partnership with I:CO, found new homes for. As an added bonus, attendees were treated to an herb potting station, where they were invited to plant their own clay pots with basil, parsley, oregano, cilantro, and thyme. After all, who doesn’t love fresh herbs?
Em Rehm (9); Dawn Dicarlo (1); all others courtesy
plus! Guess’ Environmental Commitment, Explained The new Smart GUESS eco collection utilizes environmentally conscious materials, including organic cotton, and a production process that’s safer for local waterways and workers than traditional industrially cultivated cotton; polyester created from recycled plastic water bottles; and TENCEL, Lyocell, and Modal fibers produced in a clean production facility and derived from sustainably managed forests. The collection includes a range of GUESS Eco Luxe denim in a slew of styles and washes, using TENCEL, Lyocell with REFIBRA technology, an innovative process that helps to reduce industry waste by upcycling cotton scraps from manufacturing. The mindfully made designs debut on April 22, also the 50th anniversary of Earth Day. In light of today’s significant environmental challenges, GUESS has its sights set on larger actions in the pursuit of sustainability, beyond its eco products and materials. For example, the company has made a commitment to set ambitious science-based targets for carbon-emissions reductions and has developed new programs and partnerships with groups like the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Canopy, TreePeople, and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition in support of a circular fashion system.
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AN EYE ON FASHION CONTENT PRODUCTION & AMPLIFICATION
imaxtree.com New York London Milano Paris
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Talent
Scouting
THE STATS ON THE
SELECTS
The Selects, a group of 10 Korean brands, is making waves during NYFW on February 10, with a presentation at 62 Greene Street from 6 to 9 p.m., DJ’d by Isaac Likes. Before Monday, familiarize yourself with some fun trivia on the exhibiting brands.
Tae Yong Ko beyond closet
@beyondcloset @beyondclosetdfficial
courtesy
Hometown: Incheon Years in fashion: 13 Zodiac sign: Leo Biggest strength: I’m driven Pets: 11-year-old poodle named Check, like the pattern Style icon: Steve McQueen Dream holiday: The day alone to chill! Fave movie: Born to Be Blue Ideal campaign star: Brad Pitt Pairs of shoes in the closet: 70 Style definition: A good attitude Hero designer: Dries Van Noten and Stefano Pilati Three words to describe Beyond Closet: Classic, witty, reinterpretation Fall 2020 inspo: Winter ocean and jazz Available at: Boutiques in South Korea and online
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Noah Nam Nohant
@official_nohant Hometown: A small moutain village near a Buddhist temple Years in fashion: 9 Zodiac sign: Leo Biggest strength: My chill confidence First fashion job: Design assistant at a small womenswear company Style icon: Alexa Chung and Yoo Ah-in Fashion goal: To dress comfortably with style Ideal campaign star: Tilda Swinton Fave book: Kaori Ekuni’s essays Fave movie: Inception Pets: A dog named Namoo Hobbies: Going out partying with friends and walking my dog Fave Korean food: Kimchee fried rice Hero designer: Phoebe Philo Three words to describe Nohant: Comfort, laid-back, witty Fall 2020 inspo: The experience of getting lost in new places Available at: Online
Dong Ho Ha
SWBD @SWBD
Hometown: Daegu Years in fashion: 16 Zodiac sign: Taurus Biggest strength: My flexibility First fashion job: Womenswear designer at Dongdaemun Market Pairs of shoes in the closet: 100 Ideal campaign star: Choi Min-ho Fave book: My cultural heritage explorer Fave movie: Midnight in Paris Hobbies: Fishing Dream vacation: Fishing Definition of good style: Expressing yourself Fave Korean food: Tteok-bokki Three words to describe SWBD: Color, silhouette, witty Fall 2020 inspo: Plaid Available at: E-commerce
Jina Um and Byungmun Seo Bmuet(te)
courtesy
@bmuette Hometown: Seoul Years in fashion: 10 Style icon: David Bowie Fave book: The Last Leaf, by O. Henry Fave movie: The Lives of Others Pets: A puppy named Gerber Hobbies: Watching movies The future of fashion: Diversity and communication Hero designer: Martin Margiela Biggest strength: Patience Three words to describe Bmuet(te): Weird but beautiful Fall 2020 inspo: A beautiful stranger; a lack of familiarity Available at: Boutiques in the U.S., Hong Kong, Japan, Italy, Germany, South Korea, and online
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Talent
scouting
Seunghee Lee Leyii
@leyii_leyii @leyii_official Hometown: Seoul Years in fashion: 13 Zodiac sign: Aries First fashion job: Designer Style icon: Every woman Definition of good style: Be timeless and keep your identity Pairs of shoes in the closet: Too many to count Hobby: Pilates Travel recommendation: Garosu-gil in Seoul and Gangneung Fave Korean food: Bibimbap Hero designer: Jil Sander Dream holiday: Daydreaming in exotic places Three words to describe Leyii: Spiritual, contemporary, feminine Fall 2020 inspo: Yoga’s principles of connection Available at: Boutiques in South Korea
Hye Young Shin
Wnderkammer
@wnder_k_shin @wnderkammer_official Hometown: Busan Years in fashion: 10 Zodiac sign: Capricorn First job in fashion: Illustrator Pairs of shoes in the closet: 30 to 40 Ideal campaign star: Pina Bausch Fave book: Le Goût du Chlore, by Bastien Vivès Pets: Three cats—Bongji, Bongtoo, and Waffle Hobby: Free diving Fave Korean food: Bindae-tteok Hero designer: Florence Knoll Biggest strength: Sensitivity Three words to describe Wnderkammer: Natural, minimal, soft Fall 2020 inspo: A Malta vacation Available at: Boutiques in the U.S., Canada, France, South Korea, and China
Hwan Heo
Heohwan Simulation @heohwansimulation
courtesy
Hometown: Seoul Years in fashion: 20 Zodiac sign: Gemini First fashion job: Assistant designer Ultimate style icon: Patti Smith Fave Korean food: Mak-guksu Definition of good style: Something new Ideal campaign star: Kristen Stewart Fave movie: François Ozon’s films Travel recommendation for Korea: Deoksugung Palace Fave book: The Empire of Fashion, by Gilles Lipovetsky Style motto: Have attitude Three words to describe Heohwan Simulation: Multiple forms, unexpected lines, futuristic concepts Fall 2020 inspo: 1970s Italy Available at: Boutiques in Hong Kong and Japan
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Kathleen Kye Kye
@kkye @kye_official Hometown: Detroit Years in fashion: 10 Zodiac sign: Scorpio Educational background: MA from Central Saint Martins in London Pets: A pug named Fhi Hobby: Jigsaw puzzles Fave movie: Parasite Hero designer: Alexander McQueen Dream vacation: Relaxing at home Favorite Korean food: Tteok-bokki Shopping recommendation for Korea: Boy+ in Seoul Ideal campaign star: Digitally made models Three words to describe Kye: Bold, statement, different Fall 2020 inspo: My state of mind, the story of living inside oneself Available at: Urban Outfitters and Moda Operandi
Chung Chung Lie Lie
@liecollection_ @chungchunglie Hometown: Seoul Years in fashion: 10 Zodiac sign: Cancer First fashion job: Menswear Hobby: Boxing Pairs of shoes in the closet: 24 Fave book: The Little Prince, by Antoine de Saint-ExupĂŠry Ultimate style icon: Kate Moss Dream vacation: Drinking champagne on the beach with my love Fave movie: The Lord of the Rings How to achieve good style: Express yourself Biggest strength: Positivity Three words to describe Lie: Love, identity, expression Fall 2020 inspo: Rude boys Available at: Boutiques around the world, including New York
Ji Hyun Hwang and Sung Jun Cho Hidden Forest Market
courtesy
@hiddenforestmarket @neul.official Hometown: Seoul Years in fashion: 16 Fave bands: Nirvana and U2 Hobbies: Going to bookstores and exercising Hero designers: Rei Kawakubo and Franco Moschino Fave book: The Age of Adolescence, by Laurence Steinberg Ultimate style icons: Steve McQueen and Romy Schneider Paris of shoes in the closet: 150 Traven recommendation for Korea: Restaurants in Seoul, Jeju-do, and Busan Fave Korean food: Mom’s home cooking, especially kimchi-jjigae Three words to describe Hidden Forest Market: Essential, comfortable, timeless Fall 2020 inspo: Romantic garden, mountaineering royalty Available at: Need Supply Co., Galeries Lafayette, and more
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Runway report
tom
ford
courtesy tom ford (12); imaxtree (5); all others courtesy
Tom Ford is in a very L.A. mood. Tie-dye kaftans that almost took flight and gold-dipped feather earrings nodded to Coachella’s laissez-faire vibes, while patchworked denim felt almost red carpet–worthy. Ford said his signature eveningwear remains “classic and pure; no tricks.” But Bella Hadid’s crystal dress, already viral on Instagram, sure was a treat.
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cinq À sept
Power dressing, with a boho twist! Cinq à Sept paired herringbone suits and capes with paisley prints, bishopsleeve blouses, and peasant dresses. The effect? Marianne Faithfull meets Annie Hall. The show took place at Delmonico’s, the first NYC restaurant to allow solo female diners, on the centenary of women gaining the right to vote. We’ll have what she’s having!
MoNSE
courtesy tom ford (12); imaxtree (5); all others courtesy
Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia are mad for plaid. Punk permeated, thanks to deconstructed trench coats with tartan inserts and a Prince of Wales blazer fused with a pleated animal-print dress. Grunge glam was also in the mix with a draped velvet gown fastened with buckles, plus a slashed, asymmetric sequin number. The accessory of choice? Safety pins, woven into fishnet tights. Dangerously chic.
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Runway report
heaven please+
Haute
hong kong One of the biggest benefits of having three brands on the runway at one time is that the resulting show runs the gamut of styles and inspirations. Lary Cheung and Yi Chan of Heaven Please+ gave Princess Diana a modern look. Harrison Wong took notes from abstract visual arts. And Sun Lam of Sun=Sen offered women ways to express different facets of their personality.
HARRISON WONG
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gutter credit
imaxtree (9)
sun=sen
present
What it’s Lik e to Wa lk in My Sh o es A discussion focusing on what it takes to be an entrepreneur in the fashion space and how shoes can inspire, empower and represent a milestone in our lives and careers.
f e at u r i n g
A liza L icht @alizalichtxo
N icky H ilton @nickyhilton
T ina C ra ig @bagsnob
F ebruary 11th 4 — 5pm
coterie l ive stage javits center Ground Floor at 37th st.
panelrsvp@ chicreport.com
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New
chapter
Stuart Emmrich spent 16 years at The New York Times, then decamped to L.A. for a few months to reinvent the fraught local paper’s lifestyle section. Next stop? Running vogue.com. By ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV Photography by GIORGIO NIRO
Welcome back! What brought you to Vogue? I saw Anna [Wintour] over the summer at a play, and I mentioned that after being in L.A. for six months, I might move back to New York. The transplant didn’t quite take. I knew I wasn’t going to be out there for a long time, just a year or two. I kept my apartment in New York and commuted back and forth, which became a hassle. It wasn’t sustainable. In the fall, I told Anna I was moving back. We had breakfast, and I thought she’d offer me a job like contributing editor. Instead, she said, “We’re looking to reinvent vogue.com. Would you be interested?”
I had a lot of meetings with people at Condé Nast. I realized how important the website is for the future of the company and the magazine, and how invested they were in improving it, and making it more compelling than it is now, to be honest. I thought it was an interesting challenge. At this point, why not? How well did you know Anna before these chats? At fashion shows, Anna is always there on time, and I was often in the front row near her. I was always on time, too, bored out of my mind waiting for the show to begin. So I started talking to Anna, and we found that we have three interests in common—politics, theater,
annie leibovitz (4); daniel jackson (1)
coast to coast
and tennis. We’re both Roger Federer fanatics, and bonded over that. She once took me to Wimbledon. We sat in Roger’s family box; I was behind his father and I thought, “I have died and gone to heaven.” What’s your vision for vogue.com as digital director? It’s still a work in progress. It’s been just a few weeks. I’m testing what to do, getting to know my staff better. There’s a strong Vogue voice, in the magazine especially. The website needs to find a parallel voice. Our core audience comes to us for fashion. We can’t forget that. Vogue Runway is an amazing success with incredibly loyal readers, while vogue.com, like the magazine, will expand to other areas. It’s an important year for politics, obviously, so I think that will be a key part of our coverage. We sent someone to cover the Iowa Caucus. I feel like that puts a marker in the sand about what we are going forward. You’ll see more coverage on climate change and social responsibility, too. What sold you on this particular role? That it was a digital job. I didn’t want to come back to a print magazine. At this point in my career I’d done it. At the L.A. Times, I found I was re-creating some of the things I had done before. Not recycling ideas, but adapting things I’d done for The New York Times. It’s sort of hard to find the L.A. Times in print in L.A. There aren’t a lot of newsstands. I found I was mostly reading the paper online, even my own work. After three months, I realized it was changing my experience of absorbing information and digesting content. I actually went totally print-free; I never read a print newspaper for three months. It was liberating. I was tied to things like the cover of the Style section and specific layouts. I had a small production staff, so I was actually building my own stories. Had you used a CMS before? No. It was great. Someone said to me, “It’s really hard. You’re gonna hate it, and after a week, you’re gonna love it and never want to go back.” It gives you incredible power over how things look. Once I understood that the digital reading experience was much different than the print one I’d grown up on, I realized if I came back to New York and worked fulltime, I wanted it to be a digital job. After 16 years at the Gray Lady, why did you go to the L.A. Times? The editor in chief, Norman Pearlstine, and I worked together in the 1990s. He was my boss at SmartMoney. I saw Norman at a cocktail party over Thanksgiving in New York a year ago, when he’d just been named editor in chief of the L. A. Times, and had begun hiring some good people. I said, “Norman, this is great! It sounds exciting out there.” He said, “Come work for me! I never had as much fun in my entire career as when we started SmartMoney in a tiny office over a Duane Reade on Broadway. I want to re-create that excitement. Do you want to be a part of it?” I said I wasn’t going to move to L.A., leave my entire life, and my apartment, in New York. He told me it’d be like a start-up, because the paper had gone through five different editors and three owners. He said, “We’re starting from scratch in some ways. The L. A. Times has fallen so far, we’re reinventing a new newspaper.” How did it go? I reinvented the Saturday section, which was a combination of food, gardening, lifestyle, wellness, exercise. I made food a separate section, and made
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“the l.a. times trained me to do this role in a way i hadn’t expected. believe me, i wasn’t thinking about this job six months ago.” the rest about living in Southern California. We found the most popular plant Instagram influencers, and did a story about the rise of vegan furniture. Did you build out a roster of new writers? I wanted local writers, and I wasn’t finding a lot initially, so I did something incredibly stupid in retrospect—I went on Twitter. I said, “I’m a new editor of lifestyle at the L. A. Times. If you have a story, DM me.” I got hundreds of e-mails. I went through them all; 90 percent were not good, but I assigned stories to 20 people, and 10 of those people were really good and became building blocks for the section going forward. Any other hurdles you worked through at the L.A. Times? How to make money was a challenge. The paper had lost all its print advertising. Circulation had dropped a lot, so it had to build this new audience of digital readers. Habitual readers had dropped it, and were buying The New York Times instead. It’s much harder to bring back readers than to find new ones. I realized it’d be a much longer turnaround than they or I anticipated. I would’ve had to commit to two to five years, and once I realized that, it wasn’t fair [to stay]. Newspapers are often notoriously anti-swag, but now you can receive gifts, right? When I arrived, four different arrangements of flowers were waiting for me on my desk. I thought, “Oh, I’m back in fashion!” So what’s Anna like as a boss? She’s incredibly direct, tells you exactly what she wants and doesn’t want, and is very communicative. If you send her an e-mail, you’ll hear back within five minutes; within half an hour, at most. She’s decisive, and I like that. If I’m doing a great job, tell me, and if I’ve screwed up, tell me. In fact, my first day at the job, I kind of screwed up. How so? I began on a Sunday, for the Golden Globes. I texted back and forth with Anna about various people on the carpet, what she liked and didn’t like. I kept e-mailing the editor in charge of our red carpet coverage saying, “Anna isn’t wild about this dress; let’s make sure we include this person, but not this person.” I didn’t realize I delayed the process of getting the slideshow up, because [the team] kept changing the looks. Our slideshow went up two hours late, and our traffic dropped. Anna said to me the next morning, “Why did our traffic drop? Was it because we were talking back and forth?” I said, “Oh, I don’t think so. I’m sure it wasn’t a problem!” Then I found out that was the reason. I understand the process more now. Otherwise, I hear more about things we didn’t do than things we did do: “I saw this story elsewhere. Shouldn’t we be weighing in on it?” The thing about Anna is, she reads everything, so you’re not quite sure what she’s just read and where she’s read it. Does the cadence of digital give you anxiety? When I first heard we have to post 30 to 40 stories a
(From top) Some of Vogue’s January 2020 covers; the glossy’s February issue.
day, I thought that was insane. But then I realized it’s a well-oiled machine. In a weird way, the L.A. Times was the perfect bridge between The New York Times and Vogue, because it was a digital experience. Some of the best editors there came from digital backgrounds. I absorbed from them how to think not just digital first, but digital only. The L.A. Times trained me to do this role in a way I hadn’t expected. Believe me, I wasn’t thinking about this job six months ago. If you hadn’t joined Vogue, what might you be doing? I thought about going back to writing. I had a book idea, so I thought I’d return to New York and try to work out a contract with a magazine while pursuing this book. Media was gloomy in 2019. What keeps you optimistic? People pay for content if it’s good, based on The New York Times, The Washington Post, The Boston Globe, The New Yorker. The Boston Globe’s owner, John Henry, also owns the Red Sox; the Red Sox have the highest ticket price of any baseball franchise. The Boston Globe itself is expensive. John Henry believes if it’s good enough, people will pay for it, and you should make them pay for it. I feel like Condé Nast may look at all its magazines and wonder whether they’re charging people enough. You can still get [print] Vogue for $10 a year, which is amazing. Now that you and Anna are colleagues, not just front row early birds, when’s the next Broadway outing? Anna has not invited me to a single show! Now that I’m working for her, those theater dates are over.
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Safety
first
Man on a
Mission Which industry issue are you passionate about currently? Many studios in Manhattan are operating without model safety and proper licenses. Why is that important? It means that they’re infringing on city and state laws and putting people at risk. For instance, if you’re in one of these studios and you slip on the floor and break your leg, or something falls from the ceiling and hits you in the head, and you have to go to the hospital or can’t work for some reason, you’re on your own. Insurance isn’t going to help you, because the injury occurred in a space that was not properly licensed for a photo or video shoot. A lot of these places don’t even have certificates of occupancy, so the insurance company is going to say you shouldn’t have been working there in the first place, and deny your claim.
That’s horrible. Why aren’t these places shut down? The building department doesn’t know these studios are operating illegally. There are close to a million commercial units in this city. How can the building department know everything about all of them? They can’t go into every building and check everything. There must be some sort of certification process in place though, right? Often, architects self-certify, and the city just takes them at their word. But often, the architects are corrupt and will do what the client wants just to keep them happy, even if it means lying. So I conducted my own investigation, at my own expense, and found that nearly every major studio in New York is not properly licensed. What inspired you to take that issue on? It all started with the Model’s Bill of Rights, which is, in part, about ensuring safer working conditions for models. I’ve heard multiple stories about girls being injured on-set and then being pressured by the studio, the client, or their own agency not to make an insurance claim or file a lawsuit. These are serious injuries we’re talking about. Injuries that keep people from being able to work. So maybe the studio offers an injured model $30,000 or $80,000, to not make a claim, and the model just agrees because she doesn’t know any better.
But don’t studios charge their clients insurance fees when they rent out the studios? What’s the point if they aren’t going to make the claims and the insurance companies aren’t going to pay them out even if they do? Seems like a scam at the client’s expense. Exactly. Clients are getting charged for insurance they don’t even get the benefit of and the models are the ones who suffer. What’s the solution? I’m actually suing a major studio for unfair competition. Not because they are the only ones guilty of not following the laws, but because they are the most wellknown, and I can’t possibly sue everyone. How does a studio not having proper licenses and insurance qualify as unfair competition? Making sure that you comply with all the laws and are properly ensured costs a lot of money. Other studios are able to undercut me because they don’t have the same overhead costs. Look, the fact is, this industry—from the studios to the models—needs to be regulated. Clients need to be educated so they know to ask, “Is this a properly licensed studio? Do you have a certificate of occupancy? Are you legally allowed to do what you’re doing here?” Because some studios are only licensed for photography, and others are licensed for photography and video. What’s the difference? A big difference is the type and intensity of the lights
hannah meader (2); helga traxler (1); all others courtesy
Pier59 and Industry Model Management founder FEDERICO PIGNATELLI explains why he’s out to save the fashion industry— from itself.
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hannah meader (2); helga traxler (1); all others courtesy
being used. You need more intense, continuous light for video than you do for still photography. Those lights use a lot more power. The cables are thicker. The equipment is hotter. The risk of injury is much greater. The risk of fire is much greater, so everything has to be fire-retardant—the drapes, the furniture, the floors. We have special sensors to open all the doors in case of fire. The problem is, the city won’t take any action until after something bad happens, but we shouldn’t have to wait for someone to get injured or worse before everyone is held to proper standards. We need to wake the industry up to these realities. We need to stop sending models to unsafe environments. Clients need to stop taking shortcuts just to save money. A studio is more than a big, empty space with lights. It sounds like clients are a huge part of the problem, by constantly looking for ways to trim their budgets without understanding or even caring about the consequences. And the industry is so competitive that studios will do things they know they shouldn’t just to get the business. We used to work with Macy’s on their commerce shoots, but they’re blacklisted now. They cut too many corners. They basically invented this idea of the half-face shoot. That’s where they cut off the upper half of the model’s face so she or he isn’t recognizable in e-commerce shoots and then use that as an excuse to pay them less, right? Exactly! They might pay a girl $400 per day for that kind of shoot, and because you can’t see her face, she can’t even use it in her portfolio. A model should be making $15,000 for a lookbook shoot in New York for a reputable brand, but these companies make the models unrecognizable, and then pay them just $400. And they don’t take care of models when they’ are on-set; often, they have to bring their own food and water. The CEO of Macy’s is making $11 million per year, and they can’t provide lunch and water? It’s scandalous! They’re taking advantage of these girls. That’s not moral. It’s not even good business. People think modeling is this glamorous, jet-setting existence full of money and parties, but that’s rarely the case. A lot of these girls, even some of the more famous ones, are living pretty much hand-to-mouth. Here you have a company like Macy’s using its power and stature in the industry to pay these models only $400. After agency commission, taxes, and the cost of food and water they bring to set for themselves, what are they bringing home? Maybe $200? There’s always the possibility they may not work again for a while, so they have to make that money last somehow. That’s if they even get the money at all. A woman reached out to me on Instagram recently to ask for my advice because her daughter is a child model in Miami and has been working a lot, but she has not been paid by her agency since September. When she asked the agent where the money was, the agent said something like, “How dare you ask me that after everything I’ve done for you!” It’s laughable. I pay my employees every two weeks. Can you imagine if I just stopped paying them and then, when they asked about it, I just said, “How dare you!” Sadly, we hear these kinds of stories from models a lot. This doesn’t happen in the movie business, because it’s regulated, with organizations like SAG. But the fashion industry is different. The modeling business was small 25 years ago, when I opened Pier59. The fashion advertising business was small. Now they’re large and unregulated, and it’s time to start doing things right.
“We need to stop sending models to unsafe environments. clients need to stop taking shortcuts just to save money. a studio is more than a big, empty space with lights.”
Just a few of the many recent fashion shows, photo shoots, and more at Pier59.
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On
air
Morning Person
Lilliana Vazquez has been readying for her biggest gig yet— hosting two E! morning shows—for a decade, if not her entire career. The tenacious fashion expert and TV pro’s journey spanned the gamut from car commercials and selling bags on QVC to a stint on the Today show, and beyond. Take notes! By EDDIE ROCHE Tell us about your early career. I started a small vintage accessories company, Applestar, in 2004, selling to a couple local boutiques. In less than a year, I was selling to 300 Nordstrom stores. I ran that business into the ground. I was too young, and thought I could do everything, but I couldn’t. Then I moved to Philly and worked at QVC in Westchester as a handbag rep, where I worked overnight hours and was on for 120 minutes, no prompter or note cards, selling bags. I did every TV job under the sun—used car commercials, some gambling thing on the Internet, lifestyle segments on The
Nate Berkus Show, and a lot of local TV. I’d drive to Baltimore to do weekend morning shows to promote my blog, The Cheap Chica’s Guide to Style. My big break came at Channel 10, an NBC affiliate in Philly, where I did lifestyle news. What led you back to NYC? My agent called me and said, “New York Live is losing a reporter who’s moving to Los Angeles, so they need somebody to potentially take this job. They’re willing to try you out.” It was really my dream job—a lifestyle show covering fashion, beauty, restaurants, and celebrities in New York. I commuted to New York
from Philly. It was a grind. It paid off! What brought you to the Today show? I’d pitched them for probably 18 months with no response. Then, a friend who’s a publicist booked me on the show, for a rainy day style segment. That was the start of an incredible six-year adventure as an expert, contributor, and correspondent. Now you’re hosting two E! morning shows. How’s it going? I think I was auditioning for 10 years for this job! E! News is all the entertainment and pop culture headlines, every morning, and Pop of the Morning is a continuation of one or two of those stories that’s a much deeper dive into pop culture, viral moments, entertainment, and celebrities. It’s the conversations you have at brunch with your best friends. Are you waking up earlier these days? My alarm goes off at 2:45 a.m. Our morning meeting is at 3:45 a.m, and we go through topics for potential stories. I go to hair and makeup around 5 a.m., get dressed, mic’ed, and briefed, and we’re live at 7 a.m. By 7:30 a.m., I’m off the air and ready for lunch. Or dinner! I’ve shifted everything earlier. I’m particular about what time I go to bed, by 8 p.m. I’m not the best, sharpest version of me if I don’t sleep six hours a night. It’s the biggest stage I’ve ever had, and I’m not gonna f**k it up! What’s it like coming into Rock Center every day? I get really, really emotional. My grandmother, who spoke probably five words of English, used to watch the Today show. She didn’t understand anything I was saying, but she could feel my energy, and she couldn’t have been prouder of me. She passed away four years ago, so she never got to see this part of my career. I think about how far I’ve come since my grandma moved her family here in 1971, with nine kids, not speaking a word of English, working the fields as migrant workers. The fact I wake up, get to take a car to work, and walk into 30 Rock every day, it’s the most meaningful part of my morning. I just share gratitude to all the women, and my husband, who got me here. I do it every single day for them. People I idolized, none had two z’s in their last names, or spoke Spanish, then English. I have to blow open these doors, so I’m not the last person to walk into this building, or have this job in broadcast, that has my last name.
justin patterson (2); all others courtesy
Vazquez has paid her dues to finally land her dream job on E!; with cohost Scott Tweedie (below).
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It
boy
New Ball Game
The baseball world’s loss is the fashion industry’s gain with James Turlington’s epic launch as a male model this year. As the nephew of one of the biggest supermodels of all time, he’s had the opportunity to grow up around fashion—and now he’s ready to play ball. By EDDIE ROCHE
Turlington has had a busy few months jumping into the modeling world, but he still found time to spend with his family, (from left) mom Kelly, grandmother Elizabeth, and aunt Christy.
have all said how amazing she’s been to them. Did you know Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell when you were a kid? When I was little, I saw them a few times. After I saw Kate Moss at Fashion Week, Christy told me Kate and I shared a bed in Danville when I was a little baby. They both came for Thanksgiving one year with my grandma, grandpa, and the whole gang. It’s been special to be in this world and reunite with them. Last season, you walked Brandon Maxwell’s show. What was your first major Fashion Week like? It was definitely nerve-racking! I feel like I was prepped for it, having Christy in my corner. She gave me all the advice in the world. You were in Europe this year for shows, and did a great job capturing it all on your Instagram stories. What was that like? I can’t compare it to anything. The past five months have been amazing. The past two weeks have probably been the most fun I’ve had. It was nonstop busy with shows and shoots. I get to wear amazing clothes. I met Haider Ackermann, which was a cool moment. I did Giorgio Armani’s show. I got to work for Ralph Lauren—I’ve always wanted to work for him. I went from the Dior to Balmain shows on a motorbike,
washed my hair in the sink backstage, and got ready in 30 minutes. It was a wild night. Etro was your first big campaign. That was amazing. Lauren Hutton, Alton Mason, Abby Champion, and Mark Vanderloo were in it. Cass Bird shot it—someone I had on my dream list. [Stylist] George Cortina is also awesome. It was a surreal day, for sure. We hear you and your mom are close. Are you a momma’s boy? Yes, 100 percent. She and Christy have always been my mentors. They’re pretty much best friends. They live a block away from each other. Do you still have school? Five more courses. I’m a history major. My college doesn’t offer the courses until the summer, but I’m happy to be done. I’ll finish the courses online, thankfully. Modeling doesn’t always last forever…unless you’re Christy Turlington. What else do you want to do? Eventually, I’d like to get into acting. This life is new to me, because I played baseball from 2 to 25. This has been a huge transition in my life, going from my biggest passion to this. I’d love to model for awhile. The ride has been amazing!
firstview (1); getty images (1); all others courtesy
What was your childhood like? I grew up in Danville, California, in the East Bay. I was sports-obsessed, and was always playing baseball and basketball. I was outdoors all day. Kobe Bryant was my biggest idol growing up, next to Barry Bonds. I was born in L.A. and grew up going to those games all the time. [Bryant] was the hardest worker. Through baseball, I always prided myself on being the hardest worker as well. You were a successful athlete yourself. I played at UC Santa Barbara, where I was a pitcher. I was drafted a few times in junior college by the Astros and the Dodgers. I played in the Dodgers’ minor league system, which [involves] player development for two and a half years. I ended up hurting my elbow again after I had Tommy John [a torn arm ligament]. Unfortunately, I had to retire eight months ago. And then, the fashion world came knocking! How did you wind up as a model? It’s not as cool a discovery story as the ones I’ve read about people [being scouted] at the airport or walking on the street. People asked me if I would model, but I was so obsessed with baseball. It’s something that I eventually wanted to do. I’d played [Aunt] Christy [Turlington]’s son in shoots when I was a toddler. Evelien Joos Casting from CR Fashion Book had my pictures, and sent them to IMG. Christy e-mailed Anne [Nelson], who is Gisele [Bünchen]’s agent, and I went in the next day. I signed with them immediately. I went back to Santa Barbara to take classes and get in shape. I was 220 pounds at the time, from playing baseball. I took five months and got closer to [finishing] my degree at the same time. I came back to New York at the start of the summer to give fashion a try. Christy invited me by a shoot for Vogue Brazil with [photographers] Luigi and Iango. They loved my look, styled me, and took photos of me on set. When did you realize your aunt was so famous in the fashion world? I never really saw her as being that famous. She was just my aunt. I always looked up to her and everything she’s done, such as [her charity] Every Mother Counts, and how she pursued higher education in the midst of being who she is. I saw how people looked up to her and how she was the mentor to so many top models now. People like Carolyn Murphy and Karlie Kloss
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MAKE THE FIRST MOVE.
NEVER SECOND GUESS IT.
Find real connection. Even in a city this big.
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Style
education
Career
advice For fashion and media industry aspirants, LIM College preps its students for success. Three alums and their bosses share their journeys. By aria darcella
BRANDUSA NIRO the DAILY FRONT ROW
Nandini Vaid LIM ALUM
What did you study at LIM, and what jobs or internships did you have? I moved to NYC from Mumbai, India, for grad school at LIM College to do my master’s in fashion marketing; I graduated in 2015. Before coming to NYC, I worked for six years in the Indian media industry as a TV host for several prime-time fashion and lifestyle shows. Going to grad school was a career shift for me. I knew I had to maximize my 12 months at LIM with internships, to learn all aspects of brand management. I interned at Bally in PR, and at Adidas Fashion Group in marketing for brand collaborations. I also worked in retail as a weekend stylist at BCBG MAXAZRIA. After graduation, I worked at a start-up brand for about two years, with an amazing team, working directly with the founder, right from the brand’s inception. The first collection was still on the rack in the office! It was a great experience, and it helped me develop a well-rounded skill set. Tell us about your position now! I work in marketing at The Daily. I started working here a year ago. I report to the EIC and CEO, Brandusa Niro, and work on a lot of brand partnership and event-related aspects of the company. My job entails a little bit of everything, including bringing on new business, managing existing clients, creating brand-specific marketing strategies to pitch, and executing the deliverables. No day is ever the same. I could be at an event wearing a fabulous dress, hanging out in the same room with celebrities like Lady Gaga, Kate Moss,
or Adriana Lima. I try hard not to be starstruck! The next day, I’ll be at my desk, making decks on InDesign for a client pitch, working on styling shoots, coordinating deliveries of gorgeous couture to the office, and so on. There’s always something exciting happening. The most satisfying feeling is bringing the brand vision to life, whether it’s in the form of an event or a series of print ads in the magazine or experiential campaigns. I also love the office environment. We’re a small team, supporting one another, doing great things, and having fun along the way. What have you learned about the publishing world during your time at The Daily? I learn something new from Brandusa all the time, from managing client expectations to getting creative and coming up with innovative ideas or troubleshooting problems. She has a solution for everything, even simple things, like finding the best sushi restaurant near the office. There’s a saying: “A lot of people can be a boss, but not everyone can be a leader.” Brandusa is a dynamic leader in every sense. What did you learn at LIM that’s still beneficial today? Going to LIM was probably the best decision I could’ve made! The MPS in marketing is curated in a way that gives students real-world career experience while still being in grad school. Also, the professors are industry professionals and known names in the fashion world. I still keep in touch with many of them—every person you meet at LIM adds to your network. Learning never stops.
So you started your own glossy? I launched The Daily Front Row 17 years ago, and it became an instant hit with fashion and media insiders. At the time, hardly anybody wrote or cared about the fashion world’s behind-the-scenes people. We’re a very targeted, unique media product, so we were able to prove our business model almost instantly. I started the magazine under IMG, and bought it from them in 2010. Then I immediately launched a summer version for fashion and beautysavvy Hamptons weekenders. In 2012, we started the Fashion Media Awards. Our two tentpole events—the Fashion Media Awards and the Fashion Los Angeles Awards—have become a big part of our DNA. We’ve since added lots of other events, usually hosted with brands. We also publish The Daily Art Basel in December. This March, we’re launching The Daily Palm Beach. Our next stop is Aspen. By the end of 2021, we plan to be the first true luxury regional for fashion and beauty. What do you look for when you hire recent graduates? I look for someone who can become me, or better than me. Some editors and execs hire people who could never replace them; they hire fearfully. My ideal hire has talent, passion, beautiful writing and visual skills, substance, taste, fashion, beauty, and media knowledge. LIM students are extremely prepared and well rounded. If I see LIM on a résumé, I’ll definitely look at the candidate. Why were you compelled to hire Nandini? I was hiring an assistant, so we put out an ad. I got the most brilliant letter from her, with passion, humor, knowledge, and sweetness—the exact mix I was looking for. It was honest, and appealed to me in every way. I’d never received a letter like that. When I met Nandini, she took my breath away. So smart, prepared, educated, talented, ready to learn, and profoundly dedicated. I thought, this is someone I’d love to have in our family at The Daily for a very long time. Rara avis! She quickly became our marketing manager, and the sky’s the limit. Literally.
imaxtree (4); everett collection (1); giorgio niro (1); all others courtesy
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & CEO
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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JOHN VARVATOS
JIANNA LUONGO LIM ALUM
What did you study at LIM, and what jobs or internships did you have while you were a student? I graduated in 2017 with a bachelor of business administration (BBA) degree in visual merchandising. We were encouraged—and required—to participate in retail, as well as corporate internships. I worked for LIM in the Student Life office as a graphic designer and content editor for college programs and events from freshman to senior year. Sophomore year, I started a retail job as an accessories associate/visual merchandiser at the Upper East Side location of Lester’s. Then, my first corporate internship was at Giorgio Armani in visual merchandising. I also had the opportunity to spend a month in Italy working for Grottini Advanced Retail World as a store design/graphic design intern. My final internship was at John Varvatos during my senior year, as a creative service intern. How did you land your first job? My first job after graduation was at John Varvatos, where I did my internship senior year. I took the summer after finishing college off, and as soon as I started looking for a job, my former supervisor at John Varvatos asked if I was working in the field yet. I interviewed for a visual production assistant role with the company the following week; I’ve been working here since October 2017. Tell us about your current position as visual production coordinator. I work on showrooms and windows, so a lot of my day-to-day is concepting a showroom or window layout, coordinating the logistics of production, whether in-house or outsourced, scheduling the installations, and creating renderings of the concepts for pitch meetings or composing them into a directive. Managing the budget for the
imaxtree (4); everett collection (1); giorgio niro (1); all others courtesy
(From left) The Daily’s gorgeous covers; John Varvatos Fall 2017 collection
showroom and windows also fall under my daily responsibilities. Some days, I’m at my desk, working on Photoshop and InDesign all day; others I’m in the workroom producing props for an install, and others I’m installing a new window concept in the NYC stores or traveling to assist the East Coast team. I also assist with new store openings in terms of fixture logistics and store opening team assistance. What do you love most about the brand? The best part about working at JV is the creative freedom and ability to collaborate on projects while having my voice heard. My team is one of the best; we are small but mighty. Although I’m the youngest member of the team, I’m given responsibilities of a senior member, and the opportunity to give my creative input and provide suggestions or solutions to creative roadblocks. I’m trusted to completely own a project from conception to installation, and the support to ask for help if I need it. I’m constantly learning from my supervisor, while challenging his process with experience and ideas of my own. What did you learn at LIM that’s useful and relevant to your career? I learned time-management skills almost immediately. I’m an organized person, but two jobs and six classes a semester can really test how you spend every hour of the day! I also developed people and customer service skills from my on-campus jobs and internships. LIM’s public speaking and professional communications courses also helped me overcome my shy nature—allowing me to speak in a meeting to present showroom and window concepts or draft an e-mail to the CEO. As for technical skills, I furthered my knowledge of computer programs, such as Excel, Adobe Suite, and SketchUp. I use Photoshop and Illustrator just about every day, as well as InDesign when creating window directives.
SANTIAGO CASANOVA SUPERVISOR
Tell us about your job! As director of visual production, my day-to-day duties include everything from designing new stores to sitting in budget meetings. Our department oversees the visual elements of the brand, exclusive of the clothes. We’re responsible for designing and installing our global store windows, our showrooms, shop-in-shops, fixturing, and any other element that is ultimately used throughout the brand. What was your career path, pre-John Varvatos? I’ve always been adamant about the fashion industry in one way or another, though my background was originally in womenswear design. While working in retail when I was younger, I’d always help the visual team in my free time and learned a lot through the day-to-day experience. As I got to know more people and helped out more often, I was eventually taken on as a full-time freelancer for a division of Ralph Lauren, working with its visual team, while running my own company. Working with such a powerhouse brand was a great education; you really learn that any idea is achievable. After a few years, I joined John Varvatos, and worked my way into my current role. What do you look for when hiring recent graduates? Passion and drive, first and foremost. There are tons of creative people in the world, but there aren’t many creative people who can get up every day and turn what they like doing into a successful career. Designing and executing are two different things, so it’s important that you hone both skills and absorb as much as you can to be able to consistently turn out good work. I always urge our team to be hands-on. Learn to use tools; know how to paint; learn about fabrics. It’s the best way to develop your skills and it will be infinitely useful as you try to figure out how to turn the ideas in your head into real projects. Finally, Photoshop is your friend! What’s it like working with LIM grads? Great! We’ve worked with so many LIM students over the years. It’s awesome to see what the future of the industry looks like.
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Style
education
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
TEDI BURGOS
DANIELA ROBLES LIM ALUM
What did you study at LIM, and what jobs or internships did you have while you were a student? I graduated from LIM with a master’s in fashion marketing in 2015. Before that, in 2012, I earned a bachelor’s degree in business administration. Before moving to NYC, I organized events for a video game company in South America. I also worked for the Chamber of Commerce’s events team back home in Colombia. After moving to NYC, I interned at the PR firm People’s Revolution while going to LIM; I assisted with several Fashion Week shows for clients, collaborated with stylists to feature clients in music videos, TV shows, movies, and celebrity appearances, as well as tracked press articles on those clients. I also freelanced for many fashion companies and worked backstage at NYFW shows for several seasons. One of the most memorable events was working with Vogue’s events team for the Met Gala in 2016. How did you land your first job? My first full-time job in NYC after graduating from LIM was as a stylist at DVF. At the time, I was focused on learning as much as I could about the industry and working in many different departments to see what I was good at and enjoyed. I’ve always been passionate about styling. During college, I used to bring clothes from New York to Colombia when none of the international fashion brands were there yet. I styled my friends in the back of my car in college and also dressed my best friends and took pictures to sell through my Facebook page. It ended up being such a success that I sold my selection in a well-known boutique in Bogotá. I also remember making jewelry and selling it in middle school when I was really young, not knowing that it would become my career one day! Tell us about your position now! I started as a stylist in the brand’s flagship. I
DVF (far right) and a few of the brand’s bright, graphic Fall ’18 looks.
quickly learned I was good at putting looks together and creating meaningful connections with clients, which reflected in my sales. I soon became one of the top sellers. Last year, I got involved in management, moving up to selling supervisor, then assistant manager quickly after, and now to general manager. I’m responsible for my team’s performance and ability to meet assigned sales goals, so I train them in product knowledge, engagement, clientele, and selling ceremony. I also do administrative duties to ensure that the store runs smoothly at all levels. Being a stylist is being an expert on the collection and being able to read the client and their needs in order to advise them in the best possible way. You create a memorable experience and earn their trust as their personal stylist, so they appreciate your knowledge and enjoying the experience of working with you so much, they will never shop without you! That’s what it’s all about. What do you love most about the brand? Any thoughts on Diane von Furstenberg receiving a Doctor of Humane Letters degree from LIM this spring? I love everything the brand stands for! Empowering women and inspiring confidence is something we do every day, and that’s fulfilling to me. I also feel connected with everything Diane preaches, mostly when she emphasizes the importance of having a relationship with yourself, as well as to connect people and do things for others every day. I’ve been lucky to get to work closely with, and learn from, her. I feel so incredibly lucky to be able to have a job I love, and to work for a company that supports me in my professional development. What have you learned on the job? I’ve learned that managing a team has so many details involved, from HR to the responsibility of developing someone else’s skills.
Tell us about your job! It’s a key leadership role within the retail management team, and a member of DVF’s senior leadership team. I’m responsible for leading global retail stores and global e-commerce customer service in delivering exceptional results and providing the highest standard of customer service, always striving for excellence, and am responsible for defining and executing strategic action plans to ensure a strong control and deliverables of KPI’s, product strategies, and CRM activities. I also identify key talent, create and implement development plans and ongoing education. What was your career path, pre-DVF? I started in retail as a sales associate at Nordstrom in 2009 when I was in college, and didn’t have a clear career path. I knew I always wanted to work in fashion, but my parents didn’t share the same dream. While at Nordstrom, I quickly fell in love with working with customers and climbed up the ranks, achieving top sales and ultimately receiving two promotions before taking a break to focus on school. As fate would have it, I couldn’t stay away from the sales floor for too long; I quickly took on a sales role at Saks Fifth Avenue. Shortly after, I was recruited by a former co-worker to join Michael Kors, and to relocate to Connecticut. Without hesitation, I picked up and moved there to open up a new store as the assistant store manager. I was promoted four times while at Michael Kors; when I left, I was running a $4M store while serving as the district operations manager. Then I began my journey with DVF. I was hired to run one of our newer stores (at the time) in Brookfield Place. I took a leap of faith a year later and applied for the field operations manager position, I was awarded the job and moved into the corporate office. In late 2018, I took on my current role. I’ve been with DVF for nearly four years now, and have had the best growth and development experience. How has the retail landscape changed in recent years? It’s truly transformed in the past 10 years since I started my career, and even more so in the past three to five years. Shoppers are looking for convenience— hello, e-commerce!—and brick-and-mortar stores who are surviving the decrease in footfall need to adapt to advanced technology and experiences. Any tips for recent college grads entering the workforce? I look for hunger, drive, and a can-do attitude. For corporate roles, I look for corporate experience. I’ve learned there is a big learning curve adjusting to office life and it benefits the candidate to have the experience behind them, in some capacity. My biggest advice is to get as much experience as you possibly can. Take advantage of every internship and work opportunity. No opportunity is too small.
imaxtree (4); getty images (1); all others courtesy
SUPERVISOR
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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www.PlanetByLaurenG.com info@iftheplanet.com
SHOWROOMS N.Y. CHICAGO DALLAS
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Seasonal shades
winter
sun The hottest trends for winter sunglasses are all about embracing your own personal style and taking it to the next level. all available at sunglasshut.com
Contemporary Classics
(Clockwise from left) Burberry, $254; Tiffany & Co., $367; Miu Miu, $447
courtesy
Retro with a modern twist, these styles feature larger lenses and unexpected details in warm, rich tones like dark reds, oranges, and soft browns. Just the thing to put a little “prep� in your step.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Going Commando
Military-inspired silhouettes lend utilitarian chic to any look, especially in these bold, graphic shapes. The trend works best in earthy colors like brown, gray, and green, especially when paired with darker lenses and polarized finishes.
(From top) Ray-Ban, $185; Oakley, $186; Burberry, $279
So ‘90s
The ’90s nostalgia trend is still going strong! Look for smaller, more eclectic lens shapes, or go bold with oversize shields.
(Clockwise from top) Michael Kors, $159; SJP x Sunglass Hut, $147; Ray-Ban, $154
More Is More
Add a little pizzazz to your eyewear game with frames and lenses embellished with crystals, studs, and more! Opt for fun, seasonal colors, like berry reds and warm browns, which are sure to light up a room.
(From top) Coach, $183; Valentino, $430; Prada, $525
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You Do You
Gender labels? Who needs ’em? Kick those toxic conventions to the curb and wear whatever frames best suit your personal style. The more unique, the better. Just like you! (From top) Miu Miu, $447; Ray-Ban, $154; Versace, $241
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Say
Cheese
Obscura
Thanks to the “If it’s not on social media, it never happened” mantra, the desire to document ourselves in real-time has never been stronger. Newer tech like GIF cameras have made photo booths a staple at events, from awards ceremonies to fashion shows. Mike LimAtola, co-founder/COO of photo booth rental company Fonteco Event Technologies explained to The Daily how the technology has evolved and what new interactive features may crop up next. By FREYA DOHAN
Has social media had an impact on photo booths? Social media has reinvented the photo booth and the concept of photo sharing at events. Photo booth software has evolved over the years to integrate seamlessly with social media, allowing guests to instantly post their experience. Who doesn’t want to show off their photos to their social network? In the past, those photos were only printed, and often ended up on someone’s desk or refrigerator. Do people still want to print their photos? Our events are mixed between digital sharing only, and digital sharing plus on-site printing. Having a physical memento or takeaway is always nice in this digital age. It comes down to our client’s budget, goals, and ideas. Why do people love hitting up photo booths at events? People go to events to see and be seen, and they love sharing those moments. In the age of camera phones
and digital photos, images are ubiquitous. However, there’s a fun, interactive element to stepping in front of a photo booth at events that can’t be replicated with a smartphone. And let’s face it—people love showing off when they’re at cool events, and photo booths help encourage that, especially with millennial and Gen Z demographics. How did you enter the photo booth business? My business partner and I began Fonteco Event Technologies when we saw a growing trend in events and photo booth rentals. We both have experience in the tech industry, and he had an interest in photography, so it was a good fit. After analyzing the market, we jumped in and built our first photo and video booth. Since then, we’ve grown into one of the largest suppliers of photo, video, and GIF booths nationwide. We also design and manufacture our own booths in-house.
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gutter credit
Camera
What can a photo booth add to an event’s atmosphere? Retail and fashion events are the perfect atmosphere for taking and sharing photos. The demographics of these events tie in well to our services, as attendees love to pose, and let their peers know where they are and how much fun they’re having. We’ve worked with clients like Tiffany & Co., Cost Plus World Market, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Marc Jacobs, Rebecca Minkoff, and others to liven up their activations and add a fun, memorable digital keepsake. Any emerging trends in photo booths you’ve noticed? Our retail and fashion clients want custom builds and experiences. For example, a client came to us to provide 60 photo and karaoke kiosks in their stores for a holiday promotion. It wasn’t an off-the-shelf type booth. We worked closely with their team to tie together photos, videos, and user-generated entry data from our kiosk into their nationwide contest. Tell us something fun and novel a client has asked for. We had a client come to us with the idea of a “meme photo” experience. They wanted a way for guests to have photos taken back-to-back with two different sets or scenes. We were able to bring that idea to life and allow guests to choose their meme, take their photos, and instantly print and share their meme. Will animation-focused booths likely stay popular? Animated GIFs and Boomerangs have more of a visually impactful effect when shared on social media, so we feel they will remain popular. We have numerous ways to customize the GIFs as well, such as the speed, animated backgrounds, and overlays. Are social media feed walls becoming more popular? Social media feeds, like Instagram and Twitter, are a tried-and-true way to encourage social conversation, to drive brand awareness, and to aggregate and display that social conversation in a visually appealing way. We have seen brands utilize our social media displays for all types of events, as well as in-store, as a signage-type solution. Clients in the retail space can showcase their social media posts and/or user-generated content around their brand easily and cost-effectively. There’s also a feature to allow brands to request the rights to their fans’ posted content, quickly and legally. What might the photo booth of the future look like? Technology and photos evolve. Regardless of the hardware or device, it all comes down to guests’ experiences. A fun, socially shareable encounter continues to drive engagement. We’ve seen many “new” trends, but most provide that same functionality and end result. People love bragging about events they’re at. What better way than to offer photo proof to their friends, family, and followers. This is why photo experiences aren’t going away anytime soon!
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Fonteco’s novel photo booths in action at events for chic clients.
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Winning Combo
IMG and Visa’s NYFW pop-up, at Spring Studios
game plan
The sports and fashion worlds have never been more entwined, and this season, IMG and Visa are teaming up to celebrate their growing intersection at NYFW. APRIL GUIDONE, IMG’s global VP of marketing and brand strategy, reveals the plan! April Guidone
By EDDIE ROCHE
What was the fashion like at the Super Bowl? There was a variety! Miami has its own style. We had great summer fashion happening, because it was nice and warm there. Some of it was similar to what you see in New York, while some of it was really game-based style. The closer we got to the game, the more we saw Chiefs and the 49er colors, jerseys, and Super Bowl attire. Where does that content live? It’s on our @NYFW handle on Instagram and Facebook, and on @visa_us and Visa’s other social channels. You’ve noted that NYFW has shifted to influencers and consumers. How so? New York Fashion Week, and all Fashion Weeks, started as industry events for editors and buyers, and for designers to show their collections. Over the past five to eight years, with social media’s growth, and everyone having a camera in their pocket with their phone,
influencers and consumers are much more closely involved in following along at the shows. It’s changed to include them. The designers are certainly showing their collections for the industry and the buyers. But they’re also showing their collections for consumers, who are watching along in real time to see what they’ll be purchasing down the line, or immediately as “see now, buy now.” It’s had an impact on the way IMG has marketed the event. You’re doing a pop-up at New York Fashion Week. Tell us more! Each season we have a retail pop-up with Visa, and showcase three local female designers and products that are made especially for NYFW. This season, we have a fashion-meets-sports theme. [Gymnast] Claudia Lithenal, who owns Claudia Sport, is curating a space for us with a theme tied around the Olympics and sports with fashion and sport attire that is metallic. You’ll see
ben everden (3); julian cousins (2); don stahl (2); emily falcigno (1); getty images/bryan bedder (1)
What does your role at IMG entail? I’m the global VP of marketing and brand strategy. I work across all our brand partnerships and also develop new events and optimize our current events globally. You were recently at the Super Bowl. Why were you there? We’re working with Visa to cross fashion and sports. We’re bringing fashion to the Super Bowl, and bringing the Super Bowl and the Olympics to Fashion Week. At the Super Bowl, we were doing a few initiatives. One was a street-style campaign; we sent fashion photographers to Miami in the days leading up to the Super Bowl to capture street style. We ran that campaign on New York Fashion Week’s social channels and on Visa’s social channels, capturing the best dressed of Miami. We also shot [Giants running back] Saquon Barkley and [Carolina Panthers running back] Christian McCaffrey as part of that streetstyle campaign.
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ben everden (3); julian cousins (2); don stahl (2); emily falcigno (1); getty images/bryan bedder (1)
Super Bowl street style
anything from gold skis to silver Nike sneakers at the space. We’re celebrating female achievements. Where will it be? It will be in the lobby of Spring Studios, which is the official central hub of New York Fashion Week. Why do you want to bring together the sports and fashion communities? Fashion really does cross over into different cultural pillars, everything from sports to music to art, in a natural way. Visa is uniquely positioned to be able to connect NFL and the Olympics, and we’re working with them to help with that crossover. In the front rows of Fashion Week, you have athletes, you have anyone from art to music, crossover is natural. On a panel this season with Visa, we have Saquon Barkley, [Olympic surfer] Carissa Moore, and Cynthia Rowley talking
about that intersection. Saquon has been to the Met Gala, and Cynthia has designed surf wear; there’s a real natural crossover that we’re trying to showcase. Visa is nicely positioned to do that. Mary Ann Reilly, SVP of North America marketing at Visa, will introduce the conversation led by Endeavor’s Bozoma Saint John. What’s the talk about? It’s called “Design to Compete,” and it’s about how these athletes are using fashion to build their brands and how it intersects into their lives. We’re going to talk to Cynthia about how sports are crossing over into fashion in a natural way. Do you find people in fashion love sports? There’s a mix, myself included! There’s an appreciation there. Sports figures are certainly known in the fashion industry, and they like to participate, and vice versa.
We only watch the halftime show! There’s something for everybody! Why does Visa want to work with the fashion audience? They saw an opportunity not only with the fashion audience, which is a discerning audience, but also with an audience of women. They have a huge women’s initiative supporting women founders and connecting to fashion in a way that ties directly into transactions. All those things made a lot of strategic sense for them to align with fashion and start talking to that audience in a natural way and also gives a benefit to the audience. What’s your favorite showing during Fashion Week? The Blonds! They always have something interesting going on. They have beautiful designs, always have something tied to pop culture, and the audience gets involved. It’s different than anything else!
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Cat
woman
Meghan’s
Mark
One of fashion’s budding beauts is 19-year-old Meghan Roche, who was recently crowned Breakout Star by model.com’s readers and worked with Steven Meisel on her first job. The all-American girl with a fab last name fills us in on her idyllic childhood and her plans to do it all. By EDDIE ROCHE
You’re from Yardley, Pennsylvania. What was your upbringing like? Most people don’t like to speak super highly of where they come from. They like to get out of there, but I’m in love with my hometown. It’s the typical, suburban American dream life. I had a large backyard with woods, and a dog running around in the yard. I was outdoors all the time. The neighborhood kids would come out, and we’d kick around a soccer ball. I grew up in a super athletic family. If you were inside, we were watching football. If we were outside, we’d be playing it. I was very active. How did you catch the modeling bug? I never wanted to model. I was a huge tomboy. I’d wear basketball shorts and basketball shoes, and only hung with dudes. After one of my first volleyball tournaments, I went to get my eyebrows waxed at this big spa and boutique in my town. While I was waiting, the spa’s owner grabbed me by the arm and said, “You have to model!” People had said it in the past. I was 13 at the
time. He called this woman who became my mother agent, and said they have to meet me. In my head, I thought he was on something. I’ve always liked to prove people wrong, so I thought I’d see what happens. My intuition told me that this is a weird curveball God is throwing at me; if I leave it, I’ll never know what happens. If I take it, it may be what is meant to be. Tell us about your first job. It was a Givenchy campaign, shot by Steven Meisel. It was my debut, as well as Clare Waight Keller’s first campaign as creative director. The jackpot of firsts! To make it even better, I shot with cats. I love cats. You kind of have a cat vibe. I love you! That is my favorite compliment in the world. My spirit animal is a lion. People tell me, “You kind of look like a lion today.” How was it being on set with Steven Meisel? Half of it I’ve blacked out. Looking back, most sets aren’t like his. We shot near Yonkers, and it was a super closed
set. I’m not intimidated by people, but it was due to what people told me about Steven. He ended up being the most wonderful guy ever. He didn’t talk a lot, but he had a warm presence, so I wasn’t nervous when we began shooting. It was a really great day. When did you move to NYC? I shot that job in summer 2017, and had my exclusive with Givenchy for their show in September. I like to pride myself on not being a nervous person, but I was shaking. I was mortified when I looked at the video afterward, because I was so stiff! After that I wasn’t an exclusive, but I was on semi-exclusive with Alexander Wang in February 2018. I moved right before that. I had just turned 17. I was lucky, because I met one of my best friends at a casting and we connected instantly. I stayed with her in her apartment in the East Village. She was almost 20, and she was like my mom. I would have been a wreck in a models’ apartment. Are you a dork at heart? I’m completely a dork. I’m pretty open about it. I’m also a Disney freak. My favorite movie is The Lion King. There are no Disney movies I don’t like. The only TV I watch is Disney+. My obsession with Disney sparked when I left home. It’s comforting to know there’s that source to feel youthful and like a child again; it’s a nostalgic feeling. I know I’m still young, but this industry matures you fast. That’s how I stay grounded. It sounds a little weird and dramatic. It makes me feel like I’m living a normal life. Who are your model besties? Gigi and Bella Hadid. I’m close with them. We’re all under the same manager. I met Bella my first season, when I opened the Fendi show. When you’re the new face, like I was, most models look at you like they want to kill you, especially when you open the show. I felt it. Bella gave me a huge hug. She said, “I’ve never seen someone look so beautiful.” At the level they are at, Gigi and Bella are the most humble and kind people. They’ve helped me a lot. They call me their Baby Lavender, a joke they made because they have a lavender farm. I’m like their younger sister. I’m also close with Grace Elizabeth. I’m drawn to genuine people. I have a lot of friends in the industry, but those are the girls I hang out with outside of work. You’re now with IMG Models, with Luiz Mattos managing you. I believe in fate, and timing is everything. When I was younger, Luiz would be in the same room a lot. He lights up a room. I would notice him looking at me, and I was interested in who he was. I realized he was important in this world; he’s a successful manager. One day, the stars aligned, mutual people connected us, and I realized this was the person I wanted to back me up. It was an instant connection. Since I’ve been with him, my world has changed, not just my career. He treats the girls he manages like a father figure, in the best way. He understands this is a business, but what’s important is you as a person, and your happiness in your personal life.
imaxtree (2); all others courtesy
Roche has caught the eye of the industry.
F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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