The Daily Front Row

Monday, February 10, 2014

haute

FREEZING

plus:

altuzarra jason wu prabal gurung nicole miller helmut lang

alex wang

delivers agony, ecstasy

suno dennis basso peter som tanya taylor kate spade new york

AND MORE!

CHIC CH

APEAU! Gorgeous Model Is

sue star Emily DiDonato was ha mming it up on Friday with Maybe lline Willardt’s downto at Kenneth wn studio.

Cristen Barker, Nigel Barker, and Desiree Gruber Martha Hunt

your daily dose Jessica Hart

Brandusa Niro and IMG’s Ivan Bar

SCENE

GETTING TO KNOW… Gigi Hadid Everyone’s buzzing about you! Is it ever overwhelming?

It’s surreal! I’ll stay calm all day and then get home and scream into my pillow because I’m so excited.

How was your recent CR shoot with Bruce Weber?

I got the best vibes from him right away. Bruce is one of the nicest people.

It’s crazy that someone that successful is still so warm-hearted.

Whose career do you want to emulate?

Kate Upton. Her body is just incredible.

She’s killing it!

Arlenis Sosa, Shanina Shaik, and Sara Sampaio

OLYMPICS OBSESSED! —CRYSTAL RENN

Hasselblad photo station

Are you into the games?

I made a scrapbook about the 1976 Montreal Olympics when I was a kid! I haven’t been to the Olympics yet.

My biggest dream is to live in the Olympics media village.

Do you wish you were in Sochi?

No, no, no, no! I’ll wait until Brazil in 2016.

Why do you love mods?

Without models, there is no fashion. Modeling is the greatest job in the world, if you can get it!

Bekah Jenkins and Eddie Roche

Fern Mallis and Richie Notar

The Daily’s Model Party!

Jewelry by Pandora

With George Wayne

“I adore The Daily!”

☛ The Daily's inaugural Model Issue got fêted with Modelinia Friday at Harlow.

The model–to–normal people ratio skewed toward the former. The Daily’s president, Paul Turcotte, and stellar photog, Nigel Barker, introduced the Models Hall of Fame, debuting next year. ☛ “When you think of every era, they’ve all been defined by a model.

We need to celebrate these women!”—Nigel Barker ☛ Hydration was provided

by Evian, Hasselblad set up a photo station, and Pandora baubles were on display. ☛ “I’ve never met a model I didn’t like!”

—Patrick McMullan ☛

LATE NIGHTS! With Joe Zee What’s your fash week curfew?

When I get hungry, it’s time to go.

What’s your late-night meal?

Something terrible, greasy, and quick.

I’m a burger-and-fries guy.

CANDID ON CANINES! With Lydia Hearst What’s new, beyond Fash Week?

Well, the Westminster Dog Show is going on right now! I’m actually bouncing between the two: My mom is showing a French bulldog.

Has your mom won before?

In 2009, one of my mom’s dogs won ‘best bitch.’ Maybe she’ll win again this time around!

Cory Bond James Anderson and Carissa Rosario Model Alexandra Agoston and photog Chris Colls

Andrew Saffir and Daniel Benedict

FOX News’ Jamie Colby

Elizabeth Gilpin

HAUTE CRUSHES! With Marjorie Gubelmann How do you feel about mods?

I looooove models! Obviously, male models in their skivvies are great.

Who are your fave hommes?

I’m a huge fan of R.J. King and Cory Bond.

I would volunteer willingly to be a dresser backstage with those boys.

How would you fare on the catwalk?

It would have to be full coverage, with large, expensive jewelry. Hundreds and hundreds of karats!

Teresa Moore Julie Henderson and Elena Foley

Selita Ebanks, Paul Turcotte, Evian’s Olga Osminkina-Jones, Kyle Jones, and Mindy Gale

Philosophy’s Natalie Ratabesi Michael Hejtmanek, CEO of Hasselblad Bron

PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M (16); GETTY IMAGES (8); S T E FA N I A C U R TO ( 4 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M

André Leon Talley

ZC Ad 10 1/4 x 13 B FINAL.indd 2

2/3/14 2:18 PM

TRANSIT TALK! With Teen Vogue EIC Amy Astley How’d you get to Wang’s show?

Well, I came in a Condé car.

Was the trek stressful?

I left a lot of time. I got to the show half an hour early!

Did you kill time at the bar?

Yes. This flask is Instagram catnip!

But I can’t Instagram it; my followers are teens.

M ix Fix

GARCIA TO THE AP

“[Wang’s] choice of venue…seemed aimed more at ginning up conversation and hoopla than at creating an environment that would accentuate his clothes. It was the perfunctory chest-thumping of an ambitious designer on the rise.”—ROBIN GIVHAN, THE CUT

“Having a must-see collection is no reason to ask people to hike, freeze on a water taxi in February, spend hours in transit among hundreds of vehicles descending simultaneously on a security-controlled venue, or spend several hundred dollars on drivers to see your 14-minute show—unless that particular Mount Everest of a show venue is unequaled in a more accessible place.”

“I had high hopes for the Duggal Greenhouse…A greenhouse on the water seemed to suggest glass windows, a glittering skyline—something cool. But no, it was a black box. A black box that took an hour to get to, complete with snarled traffic and tested tempers.”

—BOOTH MOORE, THE L.A. TIMES

front row

PRABAL’S STREAKY SHOW!

SCENE

”[Wang] wins the prize for the most outof-the-way show, that’s for sure.”—NINA

the

“I was shocked, amused, then annoyed for Prabal.

I’m so glad I didn’t wear my G-string Speedo today. ”

—HARPER’S BAZAAR’S Alexander Wang’s LAURA BROWN ON buzzed-about show started 36 minutes THE STREAKER WHO late and dragged everyone out to (gasp!) STRUTTED ON THE RUNWAY AT Brooklyn. Top editrices got chauffeured, GURUNG obvi, but still had to navigate hellish traffic getting in and out of their cars. ☛ For the whining, chilly masses sans drivers, there were gratis buses to Union Square and water taxi ferries to Wall Street. ☛ IKEA-harried shoppers were hauling their wares back from Red Hook on a neighboring boat as the fashion ferry departed. On the return ride, there was hot chocolate and tea. ☛ Inside, crowds squinted into the very dim space, stumbling upon a Crown Royal bar slinging consolatory cocktails. One even came in a Wang flask. Merçi! Next time we'll take Manhattan. ☛ Chic statement: Wang’s “P6” beanies, demonstrating against Russia’s anti-gay laws, were requisite for the front row. ☛ Post-show overheards: “very cerebral”...“really, really not worth it”...and everything in between. ☛ Gettin’ it Daily!

Editor in Chief, CEO

Brandusa Niro Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Christopher Tennant Executive Editor

Eddie Roche Deputy Editor

Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Writer Reporters Dena Silver, Julie Zigos Contributing Editor Sarah Horne Grose Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editors Jessica Athanasiou-Piork, Shane Cisneros Contributing Copy Editor Jean Rhodie Imaging Director George Maier Contributing Imaging Assistant Mihai Simion President, Publisher Paul Turcotte Advertising Director Hannah Sinclair Trade Publications Director Charles Garone Account Director Chloe Worden Marketing Manager Kelly Carr Sales & Marketing Coordinator Sabrina Fares Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor

To advertise call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: turcotte@dailyfrontrow.com

—CHRISTINA BINKLEY, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL

GETTY IMAGES The Official Photo Agency of The Daily Front Row

DAILY FRONT ROW, INC.

Front-Row Beauty: LA VIE EN ROSÉ!

You Saw It At…MARISSA WEBB

Maybelline New York makeup artist Alice Lane created a “tomboy chic” look with a focus on a flawless complexion using Fix Me! Foundation paired with hints of pink and the Face Studio Master Glaze Blush Stick in Coral Sheen on the forehead and cheeks. A light dusting of Dream Wonder Powder added a smooth, matte finish. For a touch of femininity, Lane used Color Sensational Vivids Lipcolor in Pink Pop topped with Fit Me! Blush in Medium Mauve to complement Webb’s rosy pieces in the Fall ’14 collection.

The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2014. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

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ON THE COVER:

Aymeline Valade and Ashleigh Good in Alexander Wang Fall 2014 photographed by Getty Images & FirstView.

G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 1 1 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( K 3 ) ; S T E FA N I A C U R TO ( 3 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ( 2 ) ; D AV I D C H E S T E R ; S H U T T E R S TO C K

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MOMMY MOMENT! With Anne Slowey How’s ELLE? Like a good wine, it gets better with age.

How are the kids?

Afton is 3, and a bit of a hellion.

She’s a confirmed nudist. She goes nuclear every time I try to get her dressed.

Atticus is a sweetheart!

What’s your ’hood like?

The East Village is like a giant day care.

HEARD

“I’m kind of used to it.”—Carrie Underwood at Peter Som, on getting mobbed in the front row. ☛ “They’re so hideous that I like them. It’s the shoe equivalent of the kid in school that nobody likes. We shouldn’t bully them.”—Lynn Yaeger on wearing UGGs.☛ “I was much too shy at school, but I suppose it’s never too late.”

—Hamish Bowles on his acting ambiLACOSTE tions. ☛ “Smiling, and unicorns.”

—Michael Carl on what makes him feel pretty. ☛ “I wonder if I’m tall enough to wear anything.”—AnnaSophia Robb on her thoughts during fash shows. ☛

TRESEMME’S TRESS SECRETS! At Rebecca Minkoff

ber 12, 2013

thursday, septem

front row

the

TRESemmé pro Jeanie Syfu shared the mane M.O. of Minkoff’s coifs...

What’s the hair story?

Rebecca Minkoff’s girl is a sexy tomboy. The hair needed to be understated, but we played with texture to make a classic style modern and cool.

Which products were used?

Creations Mousse, Split Remedy Leave-In Treatment, Fresh Start Renewing Dry Shampoo, and 24 Hour Body Finishing Spray, all by TRESemmé.

Any tricks of the trade to dispense?

Start with a good foundation before back-brushing and texturizing. It looks undone, but there’s a method to the madness!

NOW AND THEN! With Hal Rubenstein

a e p rfect 10 for o cisc franst co a

pLUS!

Kors Michael la Renta Oscar de c Jacobs ar M Marc by z Rodrigue narciso on rd go es w rte Roda

yOUR

final ! fix

e-mail subscriptions@dailyfrontrow.com

Do you ever reminisce about your time at DETAILS? I worked there from 1982 to 1989. Founder Annie Flanders had this idea of what downtown was. She started it on a nickel and a dime. We waited tables to survive!

You worked with some amazing folks there.

Many of us went on to have great careers; the best example is Bill Cunningham. When we did a fashion issue, Annie gave Bill 100 pages.

Nobody could touch them.

Wow! Where is Annie Flanders now?

She’s in L.A., selling real estate.

A MOMENT WITH… MAZDACK RASSI What’s the vibe like at MADE at Milk Studios?

It’s like the movie Fame!

Everyone is running around high-fiving and congratulating each other. But it’s also a major air traffic control center, with Kanye running around supporting young designers.

How often are you at Milk Studios during fashion week?

I live here! We bring our clothes and everything.

Have you ever slept at Milk?

Many nights. The jam room is the de facto bedroom.

CHIC PRESS!

With PR pro Jennifer Meyer

Why’d you start your own agency, Jennifer Bett Communications?

I spent 12 years in PR and marketing. I’ve wanted to go out on my own for some time!

I finally made the leap last year. Many brands weren’t getting real, senior-level support in PR and marketing from traditional firms.

I’m seeing if the industry responds to a new approach.

How’s your client roster?

Keaton Row, The Wall Group, Elisabeth Weinstock, Botkier, and a few others.

Who are your mentors?

I started in magazines, working for Glenda Bailey at Marie Claire and then Harper’s Bazaar. She’s an extraordinary leader, and she helped me understand what works in editorial.

Sharon Ainsberg and Allison Oleskey of SHO + Co taught me everything about celebrity integration. Chris Burch sees no creativity limits. Also, Elizabeth Harrison and Lara Shriftman are two of the best publicists in the industry.

B FA N YC . C O M ( 7 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 7 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ; A L L OT H E R S COURTESY

RUNWAY

Fall 2014 The space was a disappointment. The collection captivated. But it would have done so anywhere.

—Robin Givhan, excerpt from NYMag.com

Ultimately, with Alexander Wang, you feel a bit like the fish on the line. You take the bait, you get hooked.

—Alex Fury, excerpt from The Independent

ALEXANDER

WANG

Chicly equipped for the elements, Wang’s urbane latest was a slick parade of pitch-perfect toppers in cocoon, anorak, and puffer iterations, over-the-knee black boots soled in white, and exaggeratedly chunky knits. Jarring shades of chartreuse, cobalt, and violet accented the noir, gray, and navy, as did fluoro orange and green zippers. The encore?

Dark, embossed, and laser-cut leather ensembles as tough as the stoic stances and faces of Wang’s A-list mod troupe.

GETTY IMAGES (5) FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Here it was at last— a runway full of American sportswear, but not the usual yawn of blue jeans and leather jackets.

—Suzy Menkes, excerpt from The New York Times

FIRSTVIEW (7); GETTY IMAGES

RUNWAY

Fall 2014

JASON

WU

Dark, moody, and sultry! Wu’s runway wowed with a strong mix of menswear-inspired tailoring and overcoats with slinky, sleek column gowns. Power girls!

THE PRABAL

GURUNG Let’s bundle up, shall we? It’s been a blistery season, and Gurung’s giving us something to look forward to next winter. His mix n’ match layered knits with assym skirts, blanket-y wraps, and sumptuous furs are already warming us up.

GETTY IMAGES (5) FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Express the essence of you New bracelet and charms collection

·PASSION·

·FREEDOM·

· H E A LT H ·

·RESPECT·

·PEACE·

·HOPE·

·HAPPINESS·

·COMPASSION·

·TRUST·

·HONESTY·

·CONFIDENCE·

·FAITH·

· S TA B I L I T Y ·

·ENERGY·

· L OYA LT Y ·

·LOVE·

·COURAGE·

·POSITIVITY·

·BALANCE·

·WISDOM·

·PROSPERITY·

·WELLNESS·

· J OY ·

·STRENGTH·

Tara Stiles is one of eight ambassadors for the new PANDORA ESSENCE COLLECTION and represents the inner-value, PASSION. Discover the entire collection at PANDORA.net!

Tara_essence.indd 1

1/23/2014 4:55:55 PM

RUNWAY

Fall 2014

RAG&BONE

We’re envisioning a chic jaunt to the mountains. Forget jeans and a sweater. How about a plaid skirt over long john leggings, a chunky knit sweater, or a silky anorak pullover? And your must-have item: knee-high slouchy drawstring boots.

THE

RUFFIAN Haute for history? Look no further than Brian Wolk and Claude Morais’ collection inspired by 15th century artist Petrus Christus. Billowy printed silk jackets, ruff collars, and cardinal red dresses with smocked collars were a break from the usual throwback references to the last century.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

GETTY IMAGES

aquatalia.com

RUNWAY

Fall 2014 HELMUT

LANG

Cozy minimalists Michael and Nicole Covolos have a knack for knits.

The chunky textures were inspired by the surface of Mars.

Paired with mostly monochromatic colors like camel, white, and black with bright bursts of orange red, this collection was definitely out of this world.

THE

SUNO Gypsy warrior.

Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis are masters of the print.

This season they were transported by Jeremy SuttonHibert’s photographs of the Roma tribes.

The result?

Unique eyepopping prints on laid-back silhouettes that leave us feeling transported.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Beauty

TREND

{Rosy Eyes}

ALICE LANE FOR MAYBELLINE NEW YORK

GETTY IMAGES

RUNWAY

FALL

2014

NICOLE

MILLER As Patty Smyth’s The Warrior (it’s not Pat Benatar as reported in other media) played, fierce femmes fatales in smoky eyes and toughgirl attire marched down the runway. Black leather leggings with fur-trimmed overcoats, burgundy moto jackets, and a mélange of wild prints are simply parfait for city girls.

PETER

TANYA

TAYLOR Metallic fabrics born from an Instagram collab, a ladylike floral jacket with neon fur trim, and rabbits’ feet neckties for good luck. Girly and undeniably cool mixed with plenty of charm.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

SOM

Good girl, gone ever so slightly bad. Leopard, leather, and side-slung leather belts over black ostrich fur skirts added some edge to Som’s pretty-girl pieces. And the blurry, faded floral positively blossomed.

GETTY IMAGES

Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. ©2014 Maybelline LLC.

S:10.25”

S:13”

chic Empire

ACE of

SPADES How do you win at the lifestyle game? Deal in Deborah Lloyd, that’s how. Since 2007, Kate Spade New York’s chief creative officer has been hard at work adding her signature flair to a stunning array of products, from hats to homewares. Today, with 300 stores worldwide, and annual revenues of over $742 million, the multi-tasking Brit is at the top of her game. We stopped by her colorful Park Avenue office to find out how she plays. BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

S

How has the Kate Spade New York brand evolved since you came on board?

I inherited an amazing brand with amazing DNA. It just sort of needed to grow, really. I don’t think the DNA has changed immensely. Our goal is still colorful, bold, playful, clever, spirited, chic, optimistic, graphic, aspirational, and timeless.

We’ve used it in so many different ways across so many more products than we did when we were just doing handbags.

The business has grown tremendously in a short amount of time. What’s been the toughest part about expanding so fast?

For me it’s really about keeping my hands on everything. I’m very hands-on, so nothing goes out without me seeing, and it’s just about having enough hours in the day to control everything. I’m a bit of a control freak, but it’s also keeping the quality up and the cleverness, and not selling out.

What’s a day in the life of Deborah Lloyd like?

The reason I love my job is that no day is ever the same. My life is like a jigsaw puzzle. Nothing ever happens in the right order, but I love it. In order to stay creative I can’t work 24 hours a day. I’m in at half past 8 a.m. and I’m leaving around 7 p.m., but I fiercely protect my weekends, because it’s my time to think. The best ideas don’t come when you’re sitting at a desk at the office. Every day is a new challenge, there’s amazing travel, and I get to meet amazing people.

What’s the best place you’ve traveled to recently?

Mexico City. We just opened our first store there.

There was a massive thunderstorm and I had to host this big party for these 25 gorgeous Mexican girls, their boyfriends, and friends by candlelight. But it was absolutely beautiful. I love the people, I love the food, the architecture, the new museums, and the art. I’d go back in a heartbeat.

You’ve been doing more entry-level and also more high-end products. Why is that?

We call it building the shoulders of the brand, and that’s one of the reasons why we’ve been able to grow. You’re enticing somebody into the brand at the entry price with fun, easy, understandable handbags, cross-bodies, and things. But also it’s really important to build your high-end. We launched the Madison collection this year with the opening of our Madison Avenue flagship. The average apparel piece ranges from $350 for a basic top to upwards of $1,000. I’ve gotten the chance to really sort of take the handcuffs off and use beautiful raw materials and fabrics that I love.

We’re hearing a lot of buzz about Kate Spade Saturday.

How’s that going?

We’ve achieved so much with that brand. I can’t believe we only launched in March of last year.

It’s incredible all the stores we’ve opened all around the world. The press has loved it, but also this girl has found us and absolutely loves it, too. We need it to be really strong to stand out, because if you want to launch something it has to fill a gap and a girl has to love it. It has to be about her lifestyle. And who doesn’t think the best day of the week is Saturday?

Do you ever feel overwhelmed?

I try not to think about it so it doesn’t freak me out.

“

How do you de-stress?

All I need to do is walk through my front door in Brooklyn and I de-stress. I’ve got two crazy standard schnauzers, who are just so happy to see me, wagging their tails, and I have an amazing husband, who is a huge support. It just takes my mind off everything.

You’re also expanding in everything from fragrances to home products. Do you have a newfound fondness for any particular category?

I come from a Ready-to-Wear background and that’s where I start the season. It sets the mood. But I love working on the home collection. It’s so different for me, but I love it, whether it’s decorating this office, my home, or wherever. I love beautiful environments. It’s one of my hobbies. I’ve never employed a decorator. I’m actually designing and building our own house upstate at the moment.

What’s the most fun part of your job?

I love the beginning of the season when I’m coming up with the initial colors and fabrics and mood inspiration, and then my next favorite thing is when all the samples start coming out of the boxes and we start putting them together, and I see these things come to life. The next step is seeing it all come together for the show when it looks the best it possibly can on these gorgeous girls with the hair and makeup and there’s the vision. It’s like the three points: The samples come in, I get to see them first thing, and then we put it together with Brad [Goreski] for the fashion show.

How long have you been working with Brad?

For almost three years now.

It’s a lot of fun. He knows my thoughts and he just adds his flair into it and lights it up. I love seeing the clothes through the lens that he puts on them, because it just looks totally different from where it started.

Did you ever have an original Kate Spade New York tote bag?

No, I grew up in the U.K. so that wasn’t until I came to America. My first introduction was when one of my bridesmaids married somebody who worked for Kate Spade New York.

She used to have pieces from Kate Spade New York, and talk about it, so I sort of knew about the brand.

I knew about the aesthetic, because her wedding was very Kate Spade New York, so that was my introduction. I always visited the store. It was a perfect secret source and I loved the voice of the brand and everything, so when the phone call came to see whether I’d be interested to work here I was

i think the sky’s the limit, really. it’s an open book waiting for us to write all the chapters. i think the possibilities are endless.

like, ‘Yes! I love, love, love the brand!’

How different is it working here as opposed to your roles at Banana Republic and Burberry?

At Burberry and Banana I learned so much. They were sort of like my school for Kate Spade New York. At Burberry we worked so hard night and day, and I had some amazing mentors there, so nothing was going to phase me. Then I came to America and Banana was so big. It was learning to run a team. So I was bringing Fall 2014 those two things together again here to this company that has amazing brand tenets but just needed to be refreshed, which was really exciting. I love the spirit of this place, and because I’m leading the design, what I love can filter through, whereas at the other places it was slightly different. Here, I feel I can be myself. My pink, girly, bow-loving self!

Why bows?

Before the bows, it maybe wasn’t as feminine. It’s about finding a balance with the bows, so you have the very graphic bow, which I feel is very Kate Spade New York, but also very me. That feminine side is something I brought to the brand.

You’re a big-time vintage collector. What’s your most prized piece?

An old lady in Paris who used to be a model for Chanel in the very early days gave me this amazing sequined jacket and skirt that she was given as payment. It’s this beautiful sort of leopard iridescent sequin thing, but it comes from the ’30s. It’s stunning and has the original label in it. There’s a real story to it. I once wanted to wear it, but’s just too beautiful. I keep it in its original box.

Is there any modern-day young celeb who you would say embodies the Kate Spade New York spirit?

I love Emma Stone. I think she dresses so well and she’s got a quirky personality, and she’s funny.

Who in your own personal life has served as a fashion inspiration for you?

My aunt! When I was growing up, she was this fabulous model who traveled the world, and she would always come back wearing the most exotic clothes and bring me crazy presents. My grandmother immigrated to Australia to work and teach in the outback at 60, and one of my earliest memories is waving goodbye to her on the train.

She traveled all over the world, and every place she stopped she would send me a doll in an international costume. I think that between her and my aunt, that’s where my interest in fashion came from.

Kate Spade New York just turned 20. How do you see the brand evolving over the next two decades?

The sky’s the limit, really. It’s an open book waiting for us to write all the chapters. I think the possibilities are endless.

FIRSTVIEW

CHI Buzz CHIC

Spring 2014

HARBISON’S CHOICE

Just three seasons in, Charles Harbison is racking up the sort of accolades veterans designers dream about, from an exclusive profile in September Vogue, to a place of pride at Ikram, which picked him up in his very first season. The North Carolina native’s career didn’t happen overnight, though. A veteran of Michael Kors and Billy Reid, his special brand of Patti Smith-inspired American cool was honed in the fashion trenches.

BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

What’s your first fashion memory?

The first time I remember clothing resonating with me was this really colorful blazer that my mom would wear. It probably had 17 colors in the pattern.

She’d wear it with the sleeves rolled up so you could see the black lining underneath on the cuff. Also, my grandmother had this red snakeskin pump and a matching clutch that would make me so happy. I remember those pieces like it was yesterday. I would just stare at them. I could also tell that they felt better wearing them. I probably was responding in some subconscious way to that.

And your first fashion moment in the industry?

I was an architecture major and had just started my first year of studio painting. It was kind of a free studio, so we touched many different mediums. I love manipulating fabrics, and started painting on them. I remember thinking, ‘My parents are not going to be happy with the idea of me transferring from architecture to painting, so let’s see if I can make clothes with this fabric that I create.’ I took a year and went abroad to study Central Asian Textiles in Uzbekistan.

What was that like?

So rad and so crazy! I spent time in Samarkand and Bukhara just seeing the vegetable dying process on these beautiful carpets, the weaving process, and how intricate the work was. My mom sent me some fashion magazines while I was there, and I remember seeing this guy in a yellow kaffiyeh scarf. It was probably something like AnOther magazine, and I was like, ‘I have to go back to New York!’ I applied to Parsons from Uzbekistan.

What was your first gig out of Parsons?

I was a textile designer for Bloomingdale’s luxury bedding. During my time at Parsons I interned at Michael Kors in menswear and at Jack Spade. But FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

being a working-class boy who had to pay the bills, those entry-level jobs were not working. So I went the textile design route for two years before transitioning to Michael Kors womenswear. I loved my time there and, luckily, they loved me. Six interviews and a final review with Michael later, I got the gig and that was the game changer for me. I learned so much from that man. I would just sit and soak it all up.

Do you still keep in touch with him?

Not as much as I would like. His life is crazy. But one of my best friends is the fabric director there, so I’m still very connected to the Michael Kors world. I went from Michael to Luca Luca and then Billy Reid, where we launched womenswear.

What made you decide that you were ready to do your own thing?

I turned 30 and had this moment where I was like, ‘Am I setting my life up in a way that’s going to give me the quality of life that I want at some point?’ So I said, ‘You know what? Let’s just see what happens.

I’ll whip up some samples. I’ll take everything I have, infuse it into this, and if it doesn’t work then I’ll just go get a job.’

How scary was it once you’d made the decision?

The moment that I got scared was when Vogue wanted to see me. I walked in and met Mark Holgate, Virginia Smith, Meredith Melling Burke, Chioma Nnadi, and Jessica Sailer—they were all there for the run-through. I’m like, ‘Wait a minute. I guess I’m a designer with a label?’

How did they hear about you?

I’d worked with Kathryn Neale at Luca Luca and at Billy Reid. I ran into Kathryn and I sent her a lookbook, because I was smart enough to do a lookbook. She’s like, ‘Okay, this is good.’ So she sent it to Mark. I had actually met Patrick Robinson over the past year and he gave me some really great advice, so I sent it to

him, too. He said he would show it to Virginia [Smith].

Then they both were like, ‘We want to see you.’ They liked it and they offered me an exclusive after that for the September issue.

How did it feel to have that kind of support?

I’m still kind of dumbfounded. When you see the market and press and really important people responding in that way, it’s just life-affirming. It’s the thing that keeps me moving forward, because this is hard. As a startup, things are set up against you to weed you out. Those are the moments that propel you through those other moments where the stress and anxiety can be quite overwhelming. I’m very grateful.

What are some of the biggest difficulties?

Production, mainly. The logistics around that, and also delivery, which is a beast all its own. Also, continuing to have enough cash flow to sustain your business. In the beginning, you don’t really see any returns until you’re several seasons in. I mean, I have a Rolodex of designs in my head. I design when I wake up and when I go to sleep. What really challenges me to think and to act outside of my M.O. is the business aspect.

Do you have any muses?

Patti Smith was the first one. I love that she was arguably stronger than Robert [Mapplethorpe] and was the rational thinking, directional one in their relationship. I loved Aaliyah’s interpretation of gender in the late ’90s and early ’00s—the whole crop top with a big pant look. This coming season it’s Sade. I kind of went back to my roots and decided to play on this Native American idea. So it’s Sade, Pocahontas, John Smith, and romanticism. I like women who are unabashed about wearing a trouser, a blazer, and a flat shoe. There’s this casual confidence that’s really beautiful.

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CHIC Spotlight

HONOR-ABLE

INTENTIONS

A former opera singer and aspiring doctor, Giovanna Randall’s intricately patterned pieces have caught the eye of “It” girls like Zosia Mamet and Sarah Sophie Flicker (also, Oprah!). We asked the Renaissance woman behind HONOR to see how she’s handling the applause. BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

Do you remember the first piece of clothing you designed?

I think I was about 4 years old.

I found a pink balloon on our back porch and brought it to my dad, who’s an architect.

I went into his office and was like, ‘Dad, I really want to make this into a dress for a fairy!’ He helped me figure out how to stitch it together with twine.

You went from singing opera to studying medicine to launching your own fashion line. Please explain!

I think I’ve always been an experiential learner. I just never realized that Spring 2014 fashion should or could be my career. It was just something I did without thinking about it. When I was singing, I was always obsessed with my costumes and I’d make things the night before.

When I was pre-med, I was always making clothes while I was studying to just kind of balance it all out in my mind. All science was too much, and all art was too much. My husband, who was my boyfriend at the time, was like, ‘Why don’t you just do what you do, and go to FIT?’ And that’s how I ended up here today.

How long were you studying medicine?

I studied opera and then I auditioned for Broadway shows. Then I wanted a day job, so I went pre-med. I was in the two-year post-baccalaureate program at Columbia. But then that didn’t feel right either.

And then you went to FIT? Yes, I ended up taking a few summer classes just to see if I liked it, and I loved it so much! It was harder than pre-med in some ways. I was so obsessive about it. I had to be the best at everything. I was used to staying up late every night from Columbia, so it was the same amount of sleep, but a completely different kind of work.

How did you come up with the name?

It took me about a year to come up with the name and branding FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Spring 2014

for HONOR. I named it after my sister.

It’s so strong, but when you say it, it sounds soft. It means something important. I love the idea of its having to live up to being good enough for my sister, whom I just adore. HONOR’s mission is to make as much as possible in New York City and the U.S. Almost all of our clothes are made here, and our fabrics are the finest in the world. It just suited the company.

Are the fabrics a big focus for you?

I feel like fabrics need to be like you want to eat them, you know? They have to be delicious. When you put something on, the fabric has to feel great and be really strong at the same time. I always had an appreciation for the old-world ways of sewing clothes and details.

What was hardest part of launching your own line?

When you first start you want to do everything you’ve ever done, and you have so many ideas. The first collection’s pretty easy, but it’s maybe not edited very well. The second collection you feel like you don’t have any more ideas, and then, for me, I realized I still had too many ideas. The hardest thing for me has been restraint and focusing on one idea. But it gets easier every season because it just gets faster and faster and I don’t have time to think about it.

Who’s your fashion inspiration?

Catherine Deneuve was my first muse. She was always dressed in Givenchy for, like, no reason, and looked amazing in the world. But I’m looking for the modern woman who is like Catherine Deneuve was in the ’60s. Who is she?

Who were some of your early supporters?

We’ve had support from some really interesting people, like Tracee Ellis Ross and Oprah, and a lot of different socials. Some have been complete surprises.

Tracee Ellis Ross walked into the store one day and just fell in love with the collection. Zosia Mamet has really become a friend of ours. She’s wonderful and I love dressing her. And we have the support of Fashion Group International and Swarovski, which has been huge.

How did you end up dressing Oprah?

That was the biggest surprise. I think [O Creative Director] Adam Glassman contacted us about pulling something for her. We got her measurements and it was all top secret. It was like, ‘Don’t share these with anybody!’ Obviously, we wouldn’t, but we were like, ‘Okay, just please wear it!’ It was for the cover, and she didn’t end up wearing it, but then one day she wore it to the school that she opened in Africa. They had the first graduating class and they did a documentary on it. She wore it on the day of the graduation and I was so excited! I felt like, ‘This is better than anything else! This is real. This is her real life.’ It was only my second season. It was really special.

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CHIC Ambitions

BASSO’S BIG PUSH

Fashion furrier Dennis Basso has been in the game for over 30 years and shows no signs of slowing down. We spent some time with him at his new townhouse on Madison Avenue to get the scoop on his expanding footprint and growing coterie of celeb superfans.

BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

At a time when a lot of independent designers are shrinking, you opened a luxurious new flagship in November. Please explain.

For starters, our lease was up, but the brand was also growing quickly and there was an opportunity to move a little further north on Madison into this amazing four-story townhouse. We couldn’t pass it up. We’re now one of the five largest privately owned stores on Madison. We’re over 10,000 square feet!

Who did the interiors?

John Lindell, who has done all of the Dennis Basso stores. I wanted this to be like an art gallery. I wanted it to have clean lines, and be very simple and modern. Most of the walls are either white or black glass and there’s the slate gray floor. It became a wonderful backdrop.

How fast were you able to get the store open?

We did it all in four months. They worked day and night beacuse we wanted to be open for the winter season. It was quite an undertaking, but it allowed us to be able to house all of our Ready-to-Wear, our evening gown collection, all the furs, day bags, evening bags, home furnishings, blankets, pillows—everything.

It’s wonderful.

Who came out for the opening?

Over 500 people came. We had Brooke Shields, Debra Messing, Olivia Palermo, Katie Couric, Nina Griscom, Jennifer Creel, Jamie Tisch, Lizzy Tisch, everybody. We were able to close part of Madison Avenue. There were bongo players outside as people arrived, and we had DJ Kiss inside.

Is this the first time you’re offering furniture?

We’ve done furniture for interior designers before and have a few pieces here and there, but we’re still only in the beginning stages.

There’s much more to come.

How often do you visit?

I just love the location. The fourth floor has offices, and I’ve created an office for myself facing Madison, which will be a wonderful place to have people in for lunch or a meeting.

I’m working with my personal interior designer on that part, Ken Albert. We’re doing it with all mid-century furniture in taupes, grays, and beiges.

How else is the business growing?

This is now my 31st year. It’s interesting that a lot of people are slowing down after 31 years, but I feel like there are so many different opportunities and things going on. We’ve been dressing so many different celebrities, and that’s always fun. We went from originally only doing furs to doing Ready-toWear, and now we do Pre-Fall and Resort. We are also in the process of developing a mid-price bridge collection that would include Ready-to-Wear furs and eveningwear, which would make the collection available to so many more people, which is exciting.

What was your inspiration for the Fall 2014 collection?

I used the inspiration of some of the great contemporary artists. A lot of our fabrics today have been hand painted by fabulous brushstrokes. I was inspired by artists who are very fluid in their thinking, like Jackson Pollock and Robert Motherwell. I was looking at those types of artists, and I think that’s

what’s made this particular collection more exciting and different.

What’s your most popular fur?

Mink is still a very popular fur, but not like Grandma’s mink coat. The ones we do are modern and young.

Sable and chinchilla are also very popular with our customer. We’re also using a lot of crocodile mixed in.

Where are they made?

It’s all made in New York City. I think it’s very important for the economy of the city, the economy of the state, and the future of our country that we make these things here. There are so many fantastically talented artisans.

What’s the most expensive fur in your store right now?

We have a Russian lynx coat that’s $250,000. A sable is probably the next step down from that.

What’s foot traffic been like since you opened?

People love to come in and see a beautiful store. We have clients from South America, the Middle East, and Europe, and the Internet is their shopping avenue.

Everything is everywhere, and because of that I think it’s important to be creative and innovative. The woman who is shopping at this level is seeing everything, everywhere.

Let’s talk about the celebrities. Who wears Dennis Basso?

We’ve always had celebrity clients and love getting new ones. I did some things for Elizabeth Taylor. We’ve also done things for Joan Collins, and Joan Rivers, and all those great women. We did the whole fabulous diva thing with Diana Ross, Patti Labelle, and Natalie Cole.

Now, we’re working with a lot of the movie people. One of my great moments was when we designed the coat Meryl Streep wore in the opening scene of The Devil Wears Prada. We’ve done things for Nicole Kidman and Charlize Theron and, most recently, Catherine Zeta-Jones.

We dressed Helen Mirren when she won an award recently, and just dressed that gorgeous child Emmy Rossum in something right from the runway for Spring. We dress Olivia Palermo quite often, Coco Rocha, and Naomi Campbell.

It goes on and on and on.

How are those relationships forged?

Years ago, you really dealt with the celebrity themselves. Their assistant called, and the celebrity came in. Today, there’s a whole new line of fire with all the stylists.

What are the rules?

Everyone has a stylist. It’s unbelievable!

The celebrity isn’t really picking. She’s picking from a selection that’s already narrowed down for her. They’re busy, so it’s understandable. It’s a whole different world. Everyone goes on Style.com to see the collection. They get a feeling, and then they call things in. It’s a process. It’s always at the last minute, though. Let’s hurry up and wait! Then they get it, then they’re not sure, so we hold it, and then maybe in the end you have a lucky winner.

How long can a celebrity hold something before they have to return it?

It has to do with how important the event is and how famous the celebrity. If it’s Nicole Kidman or Barbra Streisand, any designer is willing to wait it out, customize it, change it, do what it takes to make it happen.

Are there other celebrities you’d love to see in

your designs?

I think it would be fun to design something for Lady Gaga, Taylor Swift, and Angelina Jolie. I’d also like to do something for Sophia Loren. I saw her a few years ago in the first class lounge in Europe at Lufthansa. She was exactly the way you think a star should be. She was sitting there with a big felt hat on in a gorgeous camel pantsuit. She had a croc Kelly bag with a sable coat on the shoulders, and a Louis Vuitton agenda she was writing in. She styled that all herself! I have very wide tastes. I like blondes, I like brunettes, I like redheads. I like a rare steak and I like Dover sole. Now I’m busy with the whole kale salad thing. But whatever it is, I like it to be the best of what it is. For instance, if it’s going to be a fair-complexioned girl, she’d better be the fairest.

Other than fur, is there a specific category that’s growing for you?

Yes, my Ready-to-Wear category. Years ago we would

dress a celebrity, but it was for her coat or her wrap.

Now, all this celebrity dressing is about clothes.

That’s how we became part of Pre-Fall, Resort, and Pre-Spring.

Do sales spike when you dress a celeb?

Between Los Angeles and New York City it’s a whole big America out there. Let’s say a sophisticated woman from St. Louis is watching the Academy Awards and sees a Dennis Basso gown on the red carpet and she comes to New York, because she’s buying a dress because she’s the chairwoman of a chartiy ball or her daughter is getting married. She’s going to now add Dennis Basso to her list. That’s not fantasy. That’s a fact!

You’ve been on TV a bunch yourself. Do you ever feel like a celebrity?

Do I feel like a movie star? No. Anyone in a certain

category that excels and makes themselves visible becomes a celebrity in their own category. There are celebrity plastic surgeons and there are celebrity doctors. Who ever thought there would be celebrity chefs years ago? Before the world of

supermodels, a model was a model. We’re dealing with a whole new mechanism with everything.

The trick is to stay on board, baby. I’m on board for the long haul. I’m not doing any small stops. We are full steam ahead in that choo-choo!

CHIC Must

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