FEBRUARY 11, 2016
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New York Fashion Week Fall 2016 Collections
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For event coverage information, please contact: Butch Vicencio Account Manager – Photography Assignments Getty Images / WireImage / FilmMagic butch.vicencio@gettyimages.com Office: 646-613-4126 Cell: 215-880-4114 David Pomponio Account Manager – Video Assignments Getty Images / WireImage / FilmMagic david.pomponio@gettyimages.com Office: 646-613-3659 Cell: 646-824-6254 455062614, Getty Images
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CARA DELEVINGNE at Chanel’s couture show in January
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Behave yourselves this week, chéries!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
TESTINGTesting...
SCORE YOUR
FASHION SMARTS Do you know your Biglari from your Berluti, your Snapchat from your iChat, your Elbaz from your Erdem? Take the test! A. Yes! I develop products for Snapchat. B. Yes, as long as I continue to draw enough traffic to keep my CPMs at $15. C. I’m freelancing for Maxim. D. Unclear: I have another “town hall meeting” this afternoon.
2. Okay then, who is Sardar Biglari? A. The owner of Steak ’n Shake B. The owner of Cracker Barrel C. The owner of Maxim D. All of the above
3. The new CMO of DVF came from… A. Proenza Schouler B. The CFDA C. The Boston Consulting Group D. Goldman Sachs
4. Which designers were forced to reschedule their shows because of Kanye? A. Christopher and Nicholas Kunz B. Max and Lubov Azria C. Marissa Webb and Adam Selman D. Anna Sui and Erin Fetherston
5. What does Pierre-Yves Roussel do? A. Act as CFO for his fiancée, Tory Burch B. Serve as chairman and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group C. Manage talent for WME. Ari loves him! D. Works alongside Daniel Boulud as the chef de cuisine at Daniel
8. On a call to Yahoo shareholders, which of the following matters did Marissa Mayer not address? A. An alleged $7 million spent on holiday parties B. The upcoming layoffs of 15 percent of Yahoo’s staff C. The merging and/or shuttering of Yahoo’s digital magazines D. Her close relationship with Anna Wintour
9. As of press time, Condé Nast CEO Bob Sauerberg has how many followers on Twitter? A. 8,321 B. 57K C. 245,358 D. 217
14. Where was Alber Elbaz last photographed by the paparazzi? A. Lunching with Bernard Arnault at Le Voltaire B. Giving a standing ovation at Valentino couture C. Working out with a trainer at Equinox Soho D. Unveiling the uniforms he designed for the cabin crew of Emirates
15. When asked by The New York Times if her job is “less fun” these days, Anna said… A. “Not at all! Did you read Vogue.com’s piece on the new orgasm?” B. “What’s so great about fun?” C. “Yes. Okay, there—I said it.” D. “It’s intriguing.”
10. Why was Cara Delevingne's dog removed from his front-row perch at Chanel Couture? A. He vociferously objected to Look #4 B. It was time to take his Xanax C. He was scheduled for a playdate with Choupette D. He relieved himself on the runway
11. Who is said to be the top candidate for the Dior job? A. Sarah Burton B. Stefano Pilati C. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli D. Erdem Moralioglu
6. Who is Gigi Hadid’s current boyfriend?
12. Which of the following menswear brands did not recently lose its creative director?
A. Zayn Malik B. Joe Jonas C. The Weeknd D. Tyga
A. Berluti B. Brioni C. Zegna D. Hugo Boss
7. Which publication is intentionally transitioning to an ad-free format?
13. Which of the following does not appear in Marc Jacobs’ Spring ’16 ad campaign?
A. Nylon B. Prevention C. Self D. WWD
A. Matty Bovan, Marc’s former intern B. Musician Andra Day C. Oli Burslem, lead singer of the band Yak D. Lauren Gerrie, Marc’s private chef
0–5 correct responses: YOU ARE…DETAILS You’re totally out of the game, much as we once loved you. But, hey—we can’t wait to see how you reinvent yourself. Memorize your Daily (and 13 years’ worth of back issues), and you can’t go wrong.
6–10 correct responses: YOU ARE…ESQUIRE You’re dealing with change at all levels, but then again, isn’t that the case for everyone in our industry? Stay au courant. Less think piece, more fashion, and dominance just might be yours.
11–15 correct responses: YOU ARE…GQ There’s a reason why people still say, “You’re looking very GQ today.” ANSWERS: 1. A; 2. D; 3. C; 4. C; 5. B; 6. A; 7. B; 8. D; 9. D; 10. D; 11. A; 12. D; 13. D; 14. B; 15. D
1. Are you employed?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO
Kylie Jenner
SCENE
Kendall Jenner
If you haven’t done even a speck of homework, the most paparazzi-filled shows of the week will belong to Kanye (and his “Yeezy Season 3 Event” at MSG), Rihanna (showing for Puma), and Kendall and Kylie Jenner (who unveiled their wares earlier this week).
PAPARAZZI QUOTIENT:
•
Mark Tevis
KANYE: Courtesy of Kanye’s
Publisher
ego and bank account.
Fashion & Luxury Goods Director Chloe Worden Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Digital Director Daniel Chivu Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley
RIHANNA: Mainly because she’s newsstand magic, so every power editor will be perched front row to check out her collab with Puma.
KENDALL + KYLIE: Thanks to the fact that they kept their venue a secret.
THINGS TO
DISCUSS!
Rihanna
RETOUCHED BY AN ANGEL
What if…Grace Coddington tried “The Donald”?
DAILY THROWDOWN:
GRANGER V. GRANGER
Many of us know (and love!) outgoing Esquire editor David Granger. These days, there's a new DG on the scene—the newly minted President of Guyana. Discuss!
2. The clownish shoot of Kris Jenner
in Harper's Bazaar. Terry, darling, ça va pas?
3.
The New York Post’s “Wannabes Have Ruined Fashion Week” piece.
4.
The Fashion GPS app for the Apple Watch. Flash your wrist for an easy check-in? Yes, please…
5.
The seemingly endless talk of cutbacks. No layoffs this week, guys, okay? FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
To advertise, call (646) 768-8102 Or e-mail: mark@dailyfrontrow.com GETTY IMAGES The Official Photo Agency of The Daily Front Row
1. Gigi Hadid’s naked
cover of French Vogue. Most incredible body in fashion? We think so. See you at AKT every day this week, loves.
Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Midwest Kathy Burke Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must b submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste. 301, New York, NY 10107.
DAVID M. GRANGER
Age: 59 Education: A B.A. from the University of Tennessee and an M.A. in English from UVA Serious honors: Won 16 ASME awards during his 19-year tenure at Esquire Major loss: Fell prey to market forces and was replaced by Jay Fielden in what will now be known as the Great Media Meltdown of 2016 Hope quotient: Any openings at The New Yorker?
DAVID ARTHUR GRANGER
Age: 70 Education: Studied at Queens College, Guyana, the University of the West Indies, and the University of Maryland Literary gravitas: Published tomes on defense and security issues Brutal defeat: Lost the 2011 general election before being elected in 2015 Campaign platform: “The time has come to end winner-takeall politics, corruption, nepotism, and the squandering of our resources,” he said. Wait—was he talking about New York media?
ON THE COVER:
Gigi Hadid backstage at Chanel’s Spring 2016 Haute Couture show. Photographed by Benoit Peverelli.
GETTY IMAGES (8); SHUTTERSTOCK (3); COURTESY
STAR ALERT
At long last, it’s show time. First things first: this direct-toconsumer concept. Whether you ultimately decide to show your clothes to consumers or the rest of us, the important thing is that chic must go on! (Have you grabbed one of our buttons yet? Well, please do so immediately.) More emerging designers are staking their claim on the calendar than ever, so make sure that your Metrocard is of the unlimited variety, because traffic is sure to be a beast. We have a wickedly chic week in store for you, so make sure to visit us every minute at fashionweekdaily.com. Bisous!
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Design Director Jill Serra Wilde Executive Fashion Director Natasha Silva-Jelly Fashion Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Designer Magdalena Long Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jean Borrie Contributing Copy Editors Joseph Manghise, Cynthia Puleo Imaging Specialists Neal Clayton, RJ Hamilton, George Maier Editorial Assistant Kassidy Silva
S:10.25”
S:13”
©2016 Maybelline LLC.
NICHOLAS K
IN GENIUS COLLABORATION NEWS…
INSPIRATION STATION: NICHOLAS K FALL ’16
HEARD
“JUST TO CLARIFY, THE NEW KIMORA LEE SIMMONS LINE LAUNCHED DECEMBER 2014.”
Nicola Formichetti
Ladyfag
PARTY
PATROL
—a publicist for Simmons, after we mistakenly welcomed her back to NYFW this season
FETES TO DISCUSS!
THE GARAGE x MARVEL AFFAIR Dasha Zhukova is toasting her mag’s collab tonight at Mercer Parking Garage. DIESEL FLAGSHIP REOPENING BASH Nicola Formichetti and Ladyfag will celebrate Diesel’s Madison Avenue outpost with a Saturday night soiree at the Academy Mansion on East 63rd Street. THE V PARTY Stephen Gan and crew are going to hang out on February 17 at a top-secret venue. Will Lady Gaga make a cameo? A Daily can dream.
TUNE IN!
WITH ANA MATRONIC
Ana with Jake Shears
CODE RED
DKNY, SPRING 2016 FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
A bold rouge pout is always on trend. Maybelline New York makeup artist Yadim created the classic by layering Baby Lips Balm in Quenched, followed by a coat of Lip Studio Color Blur in Cherry Cherry Bang Bang and a slick of Color Sensational Vivid Matted Liquid in Rebel Red. A light dusting of Face Studio Master Fix Setting + Perfecting Loose Powder gives it a matte look. BEAUTY MUST: Maybelline New York Color Sensational Vivid Matte Liquid in Rebel Red ($7.99), Maybelline.com.
BEAUTY INSPO: This lip channeled Peter Lindbergh photographs from the ’90s.
WHEN WILL WE BE HEARING NEW MUSIC FROM YOU? We are hell-bent on getting the album out this year. It’s called Afterlife of the Party, and it’s designed for the dance floor. WHEN YOU DJ, WHAT’S YOUR SOUND? Disco has been my bread and butter for years, but I’ll play anything, depending on the venue and the event—I’ll go from Barry White to Robbie Tronco to Missy Elliott to Matmos to Danzig to Dolly Parton and back again. I’ll make you vogue, then lined dance, then headbang. WHAT ELSE IS NEW? I recently became a published author! I thought it was high time to show folks just how pervasive robots are in our culture and creative expression.
C O S TA N T I F O U N D AT I O N ( 1 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 2 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ( 2 ) ; J A R E D S I S K I N / PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 1 ) ; C O U R T E S Y
“Our inspiration is Arcosanti, which was built and only 5 percent finished by Italian architect Paolo Soleri, who studied under Frank Lloyd Wright at Taliesin West. It’s an experimental town that started development in the ’70s, and remains unfinished in Arizona. It is a fusion of architecture and ecology—he called it ‘arcology.’ ”—Nicholas Kunz
Lady Gaga
The Derek Zoolander Center for People Who Don’t Age Good, a pop-up spa from Kiehl’s on Eighth Avenue and 14th Street, created a 6.5 step program to combat aging. Yes!
0216-the-daily-front-row-nyfw-1pg-final.indd 1
2/1/16 5:07 PM
Š2016 Watch the film Express Yourself with Natasha Poly at express.com
FASHIONMap
VENUES & SHOW TIMES S THE DOCK, SKYLIGHT AT MOYNIHAN STATION
So many shows, so many venues! Our nifty little schedule will keep you heading in the right direction. Now can we stop traffic to ensure an on-time arrival? We’re not miracle workers, darlings.
THE LEGEND T Thursday, February 11 F Friday, February 12 S Saturday, February 13 S Sunday, February 14 M Monday, February 15 T Tuesday, February 16 W Wednesday, February 17 T Thursday, February 18
360 West 33rd Street ß 9 am NICHOLAS K ß 6 pm BAJA EAST ß 9 am TOME ß 1 pm NOON BY NOOR ß 6 pm REEM ACRA ß 1 pm BIBHU MOHAPATRA ß 5 pm MARCHESA
THE ARC, SKYLIGHT AT MOYNIHAN STATION
360 West 33rd Street ß 10 am BCBGMAXAZRIA ß 1 pm HERVÉ LÉGER BY MAX AZRIA ß 7 pm MONIQUE LHUILLIER ß 1 pm HOOD BY AIR ß 7 pm PRABAL GURUNG ß 2 pm JEREMY SCOTT ß 7 pm VIVIENNE TAM ß 11 am VERA WANG ß 2 pm DENNIS BASSO ß 12 pm NAEEM KHAN ß 2 pm BOSS WOMEN ß 6 pm ANNA SUI
MADE AT MILK STUDIOS
450 West 15th Street ß 6:30 pm ADAM SELMAN ß 11 am DION LEE ß 7 pm BABYGHOST ß 4 pm JONATHAN SIMKHAI ß 12 pm ANNA K ß 7 pm THREEASFOUR ß 2 pm GYPSY SPORT ß 8 pm THE BLONDS
SKYLIGHT MODERN 537 West 27 Street ß 3 pm DKNY
YOUR CHARIOT AWAITS! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
THE GALLERY, ERY, SKY SKYLIGHT ON SQUARE SQUA SQU ARE ARE AT CLARKSON 558 Washington Street ß 3 pm MARISSA WEBB ß 11 am YIGAL AZROUËL ß 6 pm JENNY PACKHAM ß 12 pm LELA ROSE
SKYLIGHT AT CLARKSON ON SQU SQUA SQUARE ARE ARE 550 Washington Street ß 3 pm CUSHNIE ET OCHS ß 6 pm NICOLE MILLER ß 12 pm REBECCA MINKOFF ß 2 pm ALICE + OLIVIA ß 10 am RALPH LAUREN
SKYLIGHT CLARKSON NORTH
572 Washington Street ß 3 pm 3.1 PHILLIP LIM ß 8 pm RAG & BONE
ARTBEAM
540 West 21st Street ß 12 pm ZIMMERMANN ß 4 pm CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
THE ROXY HOTEL
2 Avenue of the Americas ß 2 pm TRACY REESE
INDUSTRIA SUPERSTUDIO
775 Washington Street ß 1 pm BROTHER VELLIES ß 11 am JILL STUART
MADISON SQUARE GARDEN 4 Pennsylvania Plaza ß 4 pm KANYE WEST
SPRING STUDIOS 50 Varick Street ß 1 pm JASON WU ß 10 am LACOSTE ß 8 pm ALTUZARRA ß 2:30 pm J.CREW ß 7 pm ZAC POSEN ß 2 pm CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION
210 11TH AVENUE
LINCOLN CENTER
CEDAR LAKE
RAINBOW ROOM
HAUSER & WIRTH
THE HIGH LINE HOTEL
ß 9 am ADEAM, Suite 903 ß 9 am GABRIELA HEARST, Suite 302 49 West 49th Street ß 10:30 am KATE SPADE NEW YORK
SWISS INSTITUTE PIER 59 STUDIOS
ß 2 pm MILLY ß 4 pm GIULIETTA ß 5 pm PAMELLA ROLAND ß 11 am KAELEN ß 12 pm SUNO ß 7 pm ZANG TOI ß 1 pm KAREN WALKER ß 6 pm ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO ß 11 am DELPOZO
18 Wooster Street ß 12 pm TANYA TAYLOR ß 4 pm MANSUR GAVRIEL
20 EXCHANGE PLACE
ß 5 pm SOPHIE THEALLET
THE HIGH LINE HOTEL
180 10th Avenue ß 6 pm MONSE ß 3 pm MARA HOFFMAN
23 WALL STREET
ß 8 pm PUMA BY RIHANNA
24 WASHINGTON SQUARE NORTH
511 West 18th Street ß 11 am PUBLIC SCHOOL
558 WASHINGTON STREET ß 12 pm DEREK LAM
11 WEST 42ND STREET ß 1 pm ELIE TAHARI, 14th floor
541 WEST 22ND STREET
ß 3 pm SALLY LAPOINTE
THE GLASSHOUSES 545 West 25th Street ß 3:30 pm BROOKS BROTHERS
440 WEST 14TH STREET
ß 9 am ADAM LIPPES
ß 5 pm DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
SOHO LOFTS
PIER 90
52 Mercer Street, 5th floor ß 10 am SELF-PORTRAIT B FA N YC . C O M ( 8 ) ; S H U T T E R S TO C K ( 1 ) ; C O U R T E S Y
10 Lincoln Center Plaza ß 6:30 pm MONCLER GRENOBLE
SIXTY TENTH
461 West 14th Street ß 2 pm TIBI ß 1 pm OHNE TITEL
51st Street at 12th Avenue ß 8 pm OPENING CEREMONY
THE FRICK MUSEUM
1 East 70th Street ß 10 am CAROLINA HERRERA
THE HIGH LINE STAGES
PARK AVENUE ARMORY
SAINT BARTHOLOMEW’S CHURCH
MADELINE WEINRIB STUDIO
441 West 14 Street ß 3:30 pm BANANA REPUBLIC
325 Park Avenue ß 5 pm ALEXANDER WANG
643 Park Avenue ß 11 am HILFIGER COLLECTION
547 West 26th Street ß 4 pm MAIYET ß 4 pm J. MENDEL
180 10th Avenue ß 5 pm VERONICA BEARD
LINCOLN CENTER 10 Lincoln Center Plaza, David Geffen Hall ß 9 am TORY BURCH
M STUDIO 163 Bank Street ß 2 pm A.P.C.
PIER 76 SOUTH ß 4 pm COACH
THE PRINCE GEORGE BALLROOM
14 East 28th Street ß 6:30 pm OSCAR DE LA RENTA
SIR STAGE37
508 West 37th Street ß 8 pm NARCISO RODRIGUEZ
MONKEY BAR
60 East 54th Street ß 8 pm BRANDON MAXWELL
DOWNTOWN ASSOCIATION 60 Pine Street ß 11 am NICOPANDA *Information up to date as of press time.
126 Fifth Avenue, 2nd floor ß 1:30 pm BARBARA TFANK
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
MOVES&Grooves
SINCE WE LAST SAW YOU... Is your head spinning yet from all the designer moves, masthead makeovers, and rumorscome-true since we last saw you in September? Not easy keeping track. THE DAILY to the rescue! We’ve compiled your definitive guide to the (totally inside) buzz.
NOVEMBER 2015 JULIA ERDMAN leaves Lanvin as head of PR to join Moncler
EDITH TAICHMAN
returns to Oscar de la Renta as VP of global communications, succeeding Erika Bearman
GLENN O’BRIEN RIEN, formerly GQ’s ’s “Style Guy,” joins Maxim as editor at large
OCTOBER 2015 ALEXANDER WANG shows his best, and last, collection for Balenciaga
BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER
MARISSA ARISSA WEBB
exits Banana Republic, becomes adviser to the brand
BALMAIN X H&M debuts, chaos ensues, and Backstreet Boys reunite for the VIP fashion show
SEPTEMBER 2015
DRAKE
POPE FRANCIS
visits New York, fashion retailers pray for increased traffic
ALBER ELBAZ
unveils music video for “Hotline Bling”
LINDA WELLS,
RAF SIMONS leaves Dior for personal reasons
founding editor in chief at Allure,, steps down; NYLON’s Michelle Lee gets the job
PUBLIC SCHOOL takes
its pre-Fall show to Dubai
departs Lanvin
YOOX Y YOO X AND NET-APORTER
merge, a month after founder Natalie Massenet leaves
NASA
finds evidence of liquid water on Mars
KATE LANPHEAR,
Maxim editor in chief, exits
MARTHA NELSON, editor
in chief at Yahoo, is promoted to head of all media
ELLE increases trim size
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
TIME INC. moves downtown
Rumors swirl that creative director
HEDI SLIMANE
GLAMOUR makes
will ditch Saint Laurent
staff cuts, including the accessories and design directors
DECEMBER 2015
CHRISTOPHER SUAREZ,
Nicholas Kirkwood co-founder and CEO, leaves after 10 years
GQ staff shrinks as Condé Nast budget cuts continue
PATRICIA FIELDS
announces she’ll close her famous Bowery Street boutique come spring
JOE MCKENNA,
fashion director at large at T: The New York Times Style Magazine, departs
ANDRÉ COURRÈGES
dies, the fashion world mourns the loss of the beloved French designer
JANUARY 2016 JAY FIELDEN takes JA
TEEN VOGUE publisher Jason Wagenheim exits; his team now reports to Susan Plagemann
GOOP MRKT,
Gwyneth Paltrow’s Columbus Circle popup, gets robbed!
on EIC role at Esquire
DAVID ID BOWIE
dies, haute couture runways pay tribute
WINTER STORM JONAS ONAS sets NYC record
JONATHAN SAUNDERS AUNDERS
announces he’ll shut down his eponymous label
Wilhelmina Models signs BILL
WACKERMANN as CEO
JOHAN LINDEBERG returns to J.Lindeberg
Refinery29’s
More layoffs LLURE UR URE hit ALLURE
CHRISTENE BARBERICH
DETAILS ETAILS ILS bids ILS us all adieu; social media goes wild
turns global EIC, while AMY becomes chief content officer
GRACE CODDINGTON steps down as creative director at Vogue
SELF S SEL F and GLAMOUR sales
B FA N YC . C O M ( 1 4 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 9 ) ; F I R S T V I E W ( 4 ) ; S H U T T E R S TO C K ( 4 ) ; C O U R T E S Y ( 3 )
FEBRUARY 2016
EMMERICH
teams combine; Self’s publisher/ Self CEO Mary Murcko departs, and Glamour’s publisher Connie Anne Phillips does double duty
TOM FORD and BURBERRY announce
W magazine
announces promotions and new hires
they will show in-season clothes in September Insiders speculate that PHOEBE PHILO will soon leave Céline
KANYE WEST
disrupts NYFW schedule with his Yeezy Season 3 show
BOOTH MOORE OORE leaves
LA Times as its longtime fashion critic
NYFW: MEN’S GIGI HADID and KENDALL JENNER walk the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show for the first time
CHANEL goes eco-chic for haute couture
kicks off its second season
Maxim VP and IN publisher KEVIN
MARTINEZ departs
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Turn something into your thing. Experience Equinox’s signature programming at one of our upcoming Fashion Week classes, exclusively for Daily Front Row readers. YO GA THE CUT
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M O N D A Y, F E B R U A R Y 1 5 |
T U E S D A Y, F E B R U A R Y 1 6
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8:45AM |
9:00AM
Unleash your fighter spirit in our boxing-inspired class.
E Q U I N OX S O H O, 6 9 P R I N C E ST R E E T T O R S V P, E M A I L R S V P @ C H I C R E P O R T.C O M
Maartje Verhoef at the CHANEL Haute Couture Spring 2016 show
You know (and love!) them on Instagram. Now, meet the top types who caught our eye at Paris Couture last month. They will be rocking your world IRL all week long.
K E V I N TA C H M A N
BY EDDIE ROCHE
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
FIRSTVIEW (3); GETTY IMAGES FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
JOSEPHINE LE TUTOUR THE SOCIETY
Another Fashion Week begins. Do you have any rituals? I’m getting used to it, so I’m not as frightened as before. I sleep a lot. How much sleep do you get a night? About 10 hours! We want your life! I go to bed between 9:30 and 10 p.m. How was couture? I’m from France, so it’s like being home for me. I did Chanel, Elie Saab, Armani Privé, and Alexandre Vauthier, and they were all amazing. What’s it like working with Karl Lagerfeld? He’s a superstar. There’s so much energy. I don’t get nervous walking, but I get nervous during the fittings. Where are you living these days? I’m living in New York, but I’m from the Northwest of France. My mom lives in Brittany, so I get to see her when I’m there. Is your brother Jules still modeling? He is. We used to fight a lot, but now I feel like his mom. Who do you want to work with in the industry? I’ve never worked with Steven Meisel. I hope I have the chance to work with him. What’s your favorite French haunt in New York City? Le District at Brookfield Place. It just opened and it’s very good. What would you recommend? The croque monsieur. Yum. Do you cook? No, no, no. How do you eat every day? My boyfriend cooks! Do you have any desire to cook? No. What New York shows do you typically walk in? I usually do Michael Kors. I really love him. He’s such a nice person. He’s very human. What do you do for fun? I love reading. It’s one of my hobbies. I’m reading a lot of French books. I prefer thrillers. Who are you named after? My grandmother.
BELLA HADID IMG MODELS
AGE: 19 DISCOVERED: Do we really need to remind you? AND WE QUOTE: “I promise I’m a good girl. I never do drugs. I literally order sushi, watch Law & Order, and go to sleep at 9 o’clock every night. I’m a grandmother.”—to Editorialist FAMOUS BEAU: The Weeknd STORIED SQUAD: Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Hailey Baldwin, Stella Maxwell EXTRACURRICULARS: Horsing around—she’s a nationally ranked equestrian. FOLLOWING: 2.5 million on Instagram
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
VANESSA MOODY
WOMEN MANAGEMENT
F I R S T V I E W ( 2 ) ; I M A X T R E E ; K E V I N TA C H M A N
AGE: 29 HAILS FROM: Texas YOU KNOW HER FROM: Michael Kors and Fendi campaigns DEBUT: Alexander Wang DISCOVERED: At an open call in Dallas OBSESSED WITH: Candles MODEL ICONS: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Natasha Poly FUN FACT: Loves food, and challenges the notion that models don’t eat. FOLLOWING: 35,000 on IG. Up your game, love!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
SOO JOO PARK
WILHELMINA MODELS What’s new? I just came back from haute couture season in Paris. Before that, I spent two months in Seoul, shooting a TV show. In total I think I was away from New York for nearly three months, so I’m busy unpacking, cleaning, and readjusting myself. What was your first-ever couture show? Chanel, for Spring/Summer 2013. I was lucky enough to get an exclusive with the house, which made the whole experience even more special. Does couture feel very different from ready-towear? How so? Couture looks and feels more formal and elegant. Timing-wise, there’s also an overlap with Men’s Fashion Week in Paris, and there are fewer shows, so I have more time and opportunities to meet and hang out with a lot of my friends. What have you learned from Karl Lagerfeld? That the best way to stay focused and be content with your job is to have a great sense of humor and great attitude. And never stop working, because workaholics can’t survive otherwise. What are your Paris traditions? I always go to the spa at a nice hotel or the hammam with my girlfriends and eat steak tartare at least once. I go to galleries and museums if I have time, and in the summer, I make sure I stop by the carnival in the Tuileries Garden. If you weren’t modeling… I have lots of interest in music and design, so maybe do something around that? Recently, I’ve taken up DJing as a hobby. I’ve done a couple of gigs, too. Which designers would we find in your closet? It’s a mix of more modern, easy-to-wear looks from designers like Alexander Wang and Helmut Lang; new up-and-coming Korean designers; some standout pieces from brands like Moschino and Comme des Garçons, one-of-a-kinds from vintage shops…and of course, some Chanel. It’s very eclectic. You were clearly a big David Bowie fan. Why? His amazing presence, many winning looks and reinventions, and of course, his music. I’m not sure I can even pick out a favorite phase, but if I had to, it’d be somewhere between his Berlin and Thin White Duke days. Have you jumped on the Snapchat bandwagon? Yes (@soojoomoojoo)—I think it’s more fun than Instagram. It feels much more spontaneous and less work-y.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
MICA ARGANARAZ DNA
IMAXTREE; FIRSTVIEW (5)
AGE: 22 HAILS FROM: Buenos Aires, Argentina DISCOVERED: By sending a Polaroid of herself to what is now her mother agency. BIG BREAK: Landed the cover of French Vogue in November 2015. SPRING AWAKENING: She is fronting five major Spring ’16 campaigns—Tom Ford, Hugo Boss, Bottega Veneta, Sandro, and Chanel. FUN FACT: She told i-D that she feels sexiest when listening to jazz and blues naked.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
SASHA LUSS
WOMEN MANAGEMENT AGE: 23 HAILS FROM: Russia BIG BREAK: She appeared in an editorial for Vogue Russia in 2009. AND WE QUOTE: “Be a personality. Don’t listen to people who say that you’re just modeling and you should just follow what other people say. Be happy. Appreciate what you have and never look to other girls, because there’s always going to be someone who’s skinnier, taller, whatever. You are mature. Be strong.”—to The Coveteur FAMOUS BEAU: Serbian actor Milos Bikovic. The couple appear together in the February 2016 issue of Vogue Russia. ACTING AMBITIONS: Has a role in Luc Besson’s sci-fi thriller Valérian and the City of a Thousand Planets. FOLLOWING: 222,000 on IG
CAMILLE HUREL WOMEN MANAGEMENT
AGE: 18 HAILS FROM: Paris MADE HER MARK: Walking Spring 2016 shows for Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Giorgio Armani, Chanel, Mugler, Dior, and Lanvin. AND WE QUOTE: “Even if you are still in school, even if you are too young, with ups and downs or anything else, you can do great things if you love what you do!”—via Instagram DEAREST DESIGNERS: Maria Grazia Chiuri, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Riccardo Tisci, and Karl Lagerfeld SNAPCHAT HER UP: @camhrl
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
FEI FEI SUN
WOMEN MANAGEMENT
C O U RT E SY: B E N O I T P E V E R E L L I
Where are you living these days? New York. It’s my second home. I love this city so much! You’re from China. How often do you get back? I’m very fortunate, because I go home several times each year. Sometimes for vacation, sometimes for work. I always feel very excited to travel back home. Any good stories from your Moschino campaign shoot with Steven Meisel? Working with Steven is something every model dreams of. I’m honored to have had the opportunity to work with him several times. He’s legendary for a reason. He is the master of light, color, and composition. He has taught me more than any professor ever could. He gives me the confidence to become a different character in every shoot. When I see his work in print I feel like I am seeing a brand-new me—it’s magic! What was it like to work with Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, who styled the campaign? Carlyne is a beautiful woman who has the best energy. She loves fashion, and it shows in everything she does. She’s so witty, and speaks very cheerfully. She already knows the best look for each model, and she will keep checking the details very carefully during the shoot to make the perfect picture. She gets things done efficiently and smoothly. Working with her is a pleasure. It doesn’t feel like work at all! Is it true that you studied fashion design? Yes! At Soochow University in China, I studied fashion illustration and life drawing. It was a short time before I was discovered [as a model]. Learning about the basics of fashion design has been very useful for me. I plan on going back to school and finishing my degree. Would you ever consider creating your own line? I haven’t thought about it before—working with the best fashion designers and stylists has taught me so much about fabric, silhouette, and construction. Anything is possible in the future. What’s your personal style aesthetic? Simple and chic, and sometimes, colorful. How did it feel to be the first Asian model on the cover of Vogue? It was such an honor and privilege. The theme of the cover was “Instagirls.” It made my friends and family at home in China realize that today “fashion model” means more than a woman who wears clothes and poses. There is so much more that a model can do. Where do you want to be in 20 years? A successful mother, businesswoman, and college graduate.
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FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Anja Rubik is so much more than a supermodel, just like her erotically charged print tome 25 is so much more than a magazine. Renowned for being a staunch advocate of women, nudity, and boundary-pushing, Rubik—who spearheads the “Don’t Fear the Nipple” campaign—created her publication to throw the spotlight on social issues and celebrate strength, style, and, well, sex. BY NATASHA SILVA-JELLY
NIPPLEGATE Anja Rubik bares all for her 25 magazine.
PA O L A K U D A C K I ( 2 ) ; C A R A S T R I C K E R ( 1 ) ; C A M I L L A A K R A N S ( 1 ) ; C L A U D I A K N O E P F E L A N D S T E P H A N I N D L E KO F E R ( 1 ) ; C O U R T E S Y
What inspired you to launch 25? I wanted to put out a print publication that represents a certain time in our life. It’s a collector’s item. I start out with a subject or social theme I feel passionate about, and invite artists who inspire me to explore it. The latest issue [titled Issue 04] is about the power of our five senses. There is so much talk about meditation and being in the now, but we live in a world that is so fast we are completely disconnected from our sensory receptors. My first issue was devoted to powerful women in fashion, and was shot entirely by female photographers, because in an industry targeted to women, there are so few of them. I worked with amazing women like Inez van Lamsweerde, Paola Kudacki, Annie Leibovitz, and Ellen von Unwerth, who all approach their work with an erotic twist. Why the erotic undertone? I love magazines from the late ’60s and early ’70s like Viva, which was a publication by Penthouse for women. There was an erotic undertone to it, but it was portrayed in an innocent and natural way. I love black-and-white photography—it’s very strong, impactful, and can be very erotic. Helmut Newton photographed women naked and his images are incredibly sexy, because the women are confident, and they always wore heels, so technically, they weren’t naked. In the ’80s and ’90s, our approach to nudity and sex in magazines was harsh and vulgar; today, there is nothing that embraces our sensuality and expresses it in a way that is cherished and adored. Share your message for women. I am very pro-women. There are so many expectations in these times to be the perfect wife, have the best job, dress amazingly, and be insane in bed. I am a European living in the States, and feel there is a strange obsession with the body here. Everyone wants to look like a Barbie doll; almost every magazine has a diet, and it detaches you from embracing your own shape. Be comfortable in your own skin—that is what makes you sexy. Who do you find sexy? Sexy is such an individual thing. A woman can buy a $20 dress and if she feels confident, she will walk into a room and own it. Another could spend $2,000 on a dress, and if she doesn’t feel confident, no one will pay attention. The women I find inspiring are very intelligent—they have their own vision, their own style. Susan Sarandon, Anjelica Huston, and Marina Abramovic are all sexy to me, even more so after I met them. What’s your own signature sexiness? I love Vaccarello—he is all about the modern, cool,
“WHY IS A BEAUTIFUL IMAGE OF A WOMAN NAKED VULGAR? THERE ARE BIGGER ISSUES WE SHOULD FOCUS ON.”
sexy woman. His clothes are quite revealing but are done in a sharp, sexy, tactful way. I never feel vulgar or too dressed up, like I am playing a role, which is important as your outfit shouldn’t take over your personality. My personal style is masculine and rock ’n’ roll in the winter, and has more of a flowy Chloé hippie vibe in the summer. Divulge your thoughts on Nipplegate and prudish America. The whole fear of the nipple is very strange. I will never forget the Janet Jackson scandal when she showed her nipple [during the Super Bowl halftime show in 2004]. Once, I was doing a shoot for French Vogue on the beach, and I was wearing a beautiful skirt with gorgeous jewelry and I was topless. This woman started shouting at me for being obscene, and then called the police, and we were shut down. She kept saying, “What if my 7-year old son saw this?” There are so many worse things then seeing a beautiful pair of breasts—he probably watches violent video games. If we embrace being naked as strange or weird, instead of very natural, it creates tension and becomes taboo. Should nudity be banned on social media? I have been kicked off Instagram twice, and 25 has also been kicked off, which is ridiculous, as anyone with access to the Internet can find nudity. Why is a beautiful image of a naked women vulgar? There are bigger issues we should focus on. The immigration crisis in Europe doesn’t get the attention the nipple does. What’s the connection between scent and sensuality? I created a fragrance [Original by Anja Rubik] that is very fashion-forward and sexy. I was inspired by independent women like Patti Wilson and Deborah Harry, and it comes with a handwritten manifesto that encourages and inspires women to find their own path. I researched the power of smell, and how it triggers a memory to boost your confidence and make you feel sexy. It is very feminine, with seductive florals like white lilies, which are a symbol of poetry and eroticism. ß IN THE FLESH The cover and provocative inside editorial of 25.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
MODEL Mogul
STAR FACTOR Clockwise from top: DNA’s famous faces Linda Evangelista, Georgia May Jagger, Karolina Kurkova, Natalia Vodianova, and Stella Tennant.
THE DNA TEST The model business is part of David Bonnouvrier’s, well, DNA. But it was an ill-fated partnership with a rival agency that sent him to New York, where he launched DNA, now one of the industry’s most powerful players. BY NATASHA SILVA-JELLY You didn’t intend to follow your father into the model business, correct? My parents separated and I grew up with my mom, not my dad [Jerome Bonnouvrier who worked with his aunt Catherine Harle at her Paris agency in the ’60s before founding his own]. My first job was at French Elle, during the mid 1980s when Elle was one of the most powerful publications in the world. I was assisting the model editor Odile Saron, a legendary lady who discovered Claudia Schiffer and Estelle Lefébure. It was the early days of Christy Turlington, FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Renée Simonsen, and Naomi Campbell, and the heyday of photographers like [Gilles] Bensimon and Bill King. Carine Roitfeld was also working at Elle, and everyone was always going on about Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, who had just left to go to Vogue. Why is Carine so damn fabulous? Carine is very independent and smart, which is why she survives and has done so incredibly well. But to me, she’s just Carine—I grew up with her. What was your next break? One of the Elle editors left to start French Le, but they couldn’t call it Le because of Elle so they gave it the unfortunate title of Glamour. It was a time of expansion in magazines, and we were lucky because a new generation of assistant photographers were starting to take pictures—Ellen von Unwerth, Mario Testino, Robert Erdmann, David Sims. Our office was next to Place du Palais-Bourbon, home of the Vogue studio where legends like Norman Parkinson and Helmut Newton shot. There was this photographer getting drunk every day downstairs in the café. He was so out of trend that no one would pay attention to him, but we knew he would be major…. His name was Guy Bourdin.
G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 4 ) ; J I M I C E L E S T E / PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y
With your career taking off, how did you end up working with your dad? I was fascinated by filmmakers and was about to join La Pac, which represented Jean-Paul Goude, David Bailey, and Ridley Scott. They were producing these legendary fashion films and Chanel fragrance ads when my father called and said, “I have an opening in the agency. Will you come and work with me?” I said yes. It took me nine years of therapy to get to the bottom of that. Why did you move to New York? I always wanted to leave Paris—it’s too small and contrived. It was the early ’90s, and Wilhelmina in New York wanted an agency in Paris, so we made a deal with Dieter Esch. It was a disaster, and I resigned after six months. I tried to start another agency, and although it never took off, it was sort of the preDNA. I love the mentality of Americans—“success is fraught with failures.” You got it right in the end. The Wilhelmina episode marked the end of the agency in Paris, so technically, we had nothing. I had no working visa, credit card, or checkbook but figured I didn’t know how to do anything else. There were some big players here, and Elite was at the peak of its glory. You had Ford, and there was a new wave with Women Management, so I started DNA. Everybody can make a firework and have their 15 minutes, but with the exception of Ford, the biggest issues agencies have is lasting. Did you really start with one girl? Annie Morton was the George Washington of DNA. She was a beautiful blonde from Pennsylvania—she made the cover of British Vogue and mapped us. After Annie, we had our dreams of girls, but knew they were fantasies. Then Elite imploded, which we knew was a matter of time. They had a very powerful agent who was holding all the big girls— Stella [Tennant], Kirsty [Hume], and Trish [Goff, now retired and Bonnouvrier’s live-in love]—and he kept threatening to leave the business. He did. They were totally unprepared. The girls left. And then along came Karolina Kurkova? Everyone was going to Brazil, so we started looking at Eastern Europe. Our scouts actually found Karolina in Milan. She was almost 15, and there was that smile, the legs, the freshness. We bought her to New York, and eight months later she was on the cover of American Vogue, the youngest model ever, though they wouldn’t admit that. Agencies were saying, “They’ll have her for 10 minutes.” One even tried to poach her, but she stayed. Don’t all agencies poach from one another? Some agencies were built on poaching. DNA has a reputation for being intriguing. We have the most visible models, yet the smallest amount of them. We have Linda [Evangelista], Stella [Tennant], Raquel [Zimmermann], Natalia [Vodianova], and the list goes on. Why would we need anyone else? Landing Natalia must have been pretty major. It’s still major. We had a solid base—Kirsty and Trish joined, then Stella approached us, which was a dream come true, but after Karolina, there was a tidal wave.
WATCH THIS FACE From top: David Bonnouvrier at DNA’s Chelsea warehouse headquarters. Clockwise from left: Imaan Hammam, Rianne van Rompaey, and Julia Bergshoeff are the mods of the moment.
Natalia came in 1991, and I still pinch myself every day. When we met her she was this very young girl, simple and driven, and now, she’s pregnant with kid No. 5. We’ve fought so many battles and gone through so much with Natalia, who is now a close friend. She’s a special person, and great to work with—one of the most fun and professional models out there. Doutzen [Kroes] is the same. While we’re on first-name basis, tell us about Linda. Linda is the ultimate model—she’s the name, the definition. There were others before her, but she took it to such a new level. What makes a good agency? Integrity. All the decisions we make at DNA are in a strange way comparable to running a hedge fund. We take a long-term calculated risk on the basis it’ll pay handsomely in time. Our concept is the model is our client. They don’t work for us, we don’t work for them—we work together. Who negotiates the big contracts? I do. My job is not to sit front row or parade myself at fashion events. What is the ultimate editorial for you? Vogue is the birthplace—it’s the bible. American Vogue is always a great moment for a model, and a French Vogue cover is always beautiful. I also love online. I miss style.com. The publishing industry got distracted by the race to conquer digital—for which they were all very late—which triggered an interesting phenomenon. Girls used to only exist through their editorial careers; now the magazines are running after them and using models they
would never have because they need their 12 million Instagram followers to boost their audience and keep their advertising revenue. What did you think of Grace Coddington’s decision to step down? Expected. She’d been there for a long time and probably wants to monetize her talent, diversify, and collaborate with the designers she’s always loved and respected. It’s certainly not the end of Grace. Who are your ultimate photographers? I’m a photography whore. Steven [Meisel] has never done one wrong picture, Patrick [Demarchelier] is classic, and Peter [Lindbergh] for the romance. I love the older generation. Back when Mr. [Irving] Penn was alive, we had girls on their first job get him to sign their book. Arthur [Elgort] was it for me—he brought a lightness and sense of humor to fashion, and his girls were always like my dream date. I make all my girls read his book. I also love Steve [Hiett]. I went to his book signing [for Beyond Blonde] and Arthur was there. I am so lucky to hang out with them. Then there’s a new generation of talented young photographers. I really like Jamie Morgan’s sensibility; it’s simple and efficient, and Carine says he’s doing really well. Which new faces are you excited about? We are always trying to spot that special girl, but sometimes it’s the girl you don’t spot who comes right out of left field. Imaan [Hammam] is on her way to becoming the new definition of ethnicity. Rianne van Rompaey is going to be one of the classics of all time, and Julia Bergshoeff is an incredible model. We just started representing Georgia May Jagger, who is one of my favorites at the moment; she has the DNA of DNA. We attract a certain type of model and are attracted to a certain type. In the early days, a very famous model walked into our agency. She billed in a month what the agency billed in a year, which was very tempting, as we were starving. But I turned it down, because I didn’t want to send a message that we’ll take anything and everything for money. What advice do you have for aspiring models and their pushy stage moms? Don’t do it! I encourage girls to stay in school. We also do a pretty good job of demystifying that—no, modeling is not the highest-paid part-time job in the world. It’s full-time and takes the commitment of a young Ukrainian tennis player. And forget about showing up and getting paid $50,000 because you’re pretty—you also need to play a role like an actress. Do aspiring models just walk into the agency? We have scouts, a global network of agencies, but we get calls from moms and walk-ins. The best walk-in was Agyness Deyn. She bypassed the front desk, as the receptionist wouldn’t let her in. Did your dad give you any advice? I did my own thing, but he was proud. Dad was an innovator—if he said, “Put on your space suit, we’re going to scout on Mars,” we’d actually open the closet and say, “But there’s no space suit.” He was so convincing. We had some epic moments, and some epic battles. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
COURTESY FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
DIVINEDesign
SETTING THE STAGE
Stefan Beckman’s mind-altering sets are among the best things about New York Fashion Week. In his Garment District studio, the creative force explains his process. BY ASHLEY BAKER PORTRAIT BY GIORGIO NIRO How did you initially team up with Marc Jacobs? I worked on his first Vuitton campaign with Inez and Vinoodh. He wanted to do a set for his show, and he called me five days before. They had already started loading the lighting into the downtown Armory. I had to work backward, based on the rigging that was already there. He was thinking of an abstract city, and all the different parts of his collection coming together, so we came up with an idea. I’m very fortunate that he’s an amazing collaborator. The collections are always really different, and he comes from so many different places creatively, and that makes it really inspiring and very challenging. What’s your process? It depends. Sometimes I have a general idea or some references, or it could be more thought-out, depending on the client. Some people have internal teams that start the process, and we bring additional references to start the conversation visually, which is always the best way, I think. Film, art, and architecture are the three big things I love. How much lead time do you get? At the most, six months, but that’s very rare. It’s more like a month or two. For some shows, we get two weeks. How did you arrive at the clouds idea for Marc’s Fall ’14 collection? It came together sitting with Marc and Katie Grand. We like to think about things we’ve never done before. We had been inside last season, so we thought about going outside. The idea for the clouds started from a conversation about what it would be like to actually have that emotional feeling of having something on top of you while you’re watching the show. We started with the sky, and several versions of clouds, and then we realized, realistically, what would work to light the girls. Ultimately, you want to make the girls and the clothes look amazing. We ended up with about one cloud per seat. We made models of abstract clouds, and some were sculptural and more made of several pieces of wood and kind of layered and abstracted, and some were versions of what we ended up with. They made people smile. It was amazing to be in that environment. It was a simple idea—stools and clouds, and a pass-through for the girls to walk through. Did you store the clouds afterward? We have warehouse space for a lot of that stuff. A lot of the clouds were given away—Marc took some, the visual merchandising team took some, we have one, they gave some to editors. I think Grace Coddington
has a cloud. They’re very funny—they make you want to curl up and take a nap. Of all the shows you’ve done together, any favorites? They’ve all had their highlights; they’re all so different. Emotionally, the Victorian Surf show was very intense. A lot of people called it “apocalyptic
beach” or “Sandy”—that was not the reference. There were so many layers to that show. It was almost too much for the audience. To actually do it, there were vignettes around the room, and the walkway was a strange walk for the girls, with lots of crisscrossing. It was oppressively hot, not by choice—everyone thinks that we orchestrated that—and it was incredibly humid those few days. There was no airconditioning budget—that all went to the set. It was pouring rain. After the show, it was a great feeling. The other one was the Diana Vreeland living room. The team hand-painted all those backdrops. The
seats, the runway…it was a very intense week. Were you excited to work at the Ziegfeld? It was great. It’s always interesting to do something out of the box. What would it be like to have a show in the theater? Marc wanted to take it a step further— let’s take it everywhere. We took over the block, so you have an experience the whole time, from when the girls leave the hair and makeup tent. It had all these different levels. What’s the story behind your “No Longer/Not Yet” exhibition with Gucci? It was curated by Alessandro [Michele] and Katie Grand, and it came from how Alessandro thinks of being contemporary. It was taken from a philosopher’s quote, and giving that idea to different artists, who interpreted something that ties into that theme. It was less of a fashion exhibition, although we had some fashion. We had one room that documented the atelier—how they make embroideries and jewelry—and in the other rooms, we helped the artists figure out what they were doing. Rachel Feinstein did an amazing sculpture at the opening of the show. There was a nod to Gucci in all the rooms—we thought it would be great to have a patterned carpet, so we took a Gucci pattern and blew it up—but it was a really interesting approach, because it made you think about how other people interpret ideas, and how that works in fashion. Over the course of your career, how has the fashion show experience changed? Everything is that social media moment, for better or for worse. Sometimes that has a negative connotation, but other times, it has an amazing connotation, because people are able to get attuned to something very visual and experiential, more so than ever before. We were doing those things before, but what we found out later is that people have become more visual. What do you think about the idea of turning Fashion Week into a more consumer-oriented experience? Things have changed, and are changing, superquickly. I’ve been in the business for a long time, and things didn’t change for a long time. There’s something to be said for having a consumer show— it could be a good thing, in some respects, for the consumer—but the flip side, to me, is this: Is it still going to be as creative as it was? Are you going to be doing shows where the buyers have told you what to make and what not to make? I want to make sure FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
DIVINEDesign
“THERE’S SOMETHING TO BE SAID FOR HAVING A CONSUMER SHOW… BUT THE FLIP SIDE, TO ME, IS THIS: IS IT STILL GOING TO BE AS CREATIVE AS IT WAS?” How did you come up with the party bus idea for the Alexander Wang campaign? It was Alex’s idea to do a party bus, so we rented one, and tricked it out on the inside. A lot of it was done with lighting and Mylar. It was a very challenging place to shoot, for sure. How do you see ad campaigns evolving in the social media age? Unfortunately, people aren’t wanting to take risks like they used to with campaigns. I hate to be negative, but everything’s becoming about the bag, the bag, the bag. There are still amazing campaigns—Glen [Luchford] has done an amazing job with Gucci—but you can put those clothes in a weird situation and they look really good. I want to do something different—I’d rather fail trying than not try at all. Ultimately, it is about selling the clothes, but it’s also about an image. My fear is that the images aren’t as important as they
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used to be. Maybe that’s because of social media. The upside is that shows are more important than ever. Because they’re about experience. People can watch an amazing Chanel show, and it’s Instagrammed to death. It’s shown all over the world, and it’s more interesting than an ad campaign. It used to be that 300 editors would see a show, and now, it’s 3 million, or more. And that’s great. You wonder how far it will really go—you kind of hope it does keep going, but you have to make sure it doesn’t overtake. Now that everything has gotten so big, maybe smaller is better. We did a resort show for Marc in his original store on Mercer last summer, and he was super into it. We carpeted it, and took out the clothes, but kept some of the fixtures and built temporary walls. It felt fresh and exciting. It was a bit of a throwback to an oldschool idea, but in an updated way. ß
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AND…SCENE! 1. The fantastic walkway for Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2007 show. 2. A scene from Gucci’s “No Longer/Not Yet” exhibition in Shanghai. 3. A Beckman set from an editorial story in the March 2014 issue of Interview; photograph by Mikael Jansson. 4. Diana Vreeland’s Manhattan apartment was the inspiration for Marc Jacobs’ Fall 2015 set. 5. Alexander Wang’s Spring ’15 ad campaign, for which Beckman and his team tricked out a party bus. 6. The set for Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2015 collection. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
COURTESY
we can still push things. The designers doing that influence the world. A lot of your work is temporary by nature. How does that make you feel? Sometimes it’s a little sad, because we work really hard and we grow attached. But so many times, we’re onto the next thing. Are you involved in the teardown process? Usually. Maybe we’re not there physically, but they need to make sure where it all goes. Things get repurposed—we give to organizations like School for the Arts and Build It Green. We go there to get stuff for editorial shoots, because it’s cheap, and we’ll see stuff from runway shows kind of pushed into the corner. Kind of sad. [Laughs] We keep things here and there, but you can’t keep everything. I do get sentimental, but then years later, I think, Do I still have this? What’s your living space like? It’s a modern loft. I can appreciate a minimal interior, but I like the idea of traveling and finding things that inspire me. Whether it’s a geode or a piece of pottery or ceramic or something antique, it tells a story about who you are. Any interest in doing something permanent, like a retail space? We’ve done a few things here and there. I did a restaurant a few years ago, and a couple of houses. If I haven’t done something before, I want to try it. There’s so much I want to learn about life and the world that it pushes me to do more. This is a great business!
SHIRTThing
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
FRESH
PERSPECTIVE Monse’s Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia drew a coterie of top editors and buyers to their first show by the strength of their sketches. After the last look exited the runway, it was clear that NYFW-goers had identified the buzziest new brand of the season. As veteran designers for Oscar de la Renta—Kim spent 12 years at the house and Garcia worked there for six—their aesthetic is both referential and youthful, with a fresh take on edgy elegance that’s appealing to both millennials and lunching ladies alike. BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
Why didn’t you name the brand after yourselves? Fernando Garcia: Monse is my mother’s name. Laura thought of it. When I heard it from her point of view it sounded feminine and strong, and we liked the length. What did your mom think? Fernando: She’s incredulous and flattered. Laura Kim: I once sent her a bill for something because it had her name on it. [Laughs] How did Oscar feel when you told him you were going to start your own line? Laura: He could not understand why we would want to leave. At first, he thought we had found other jobs at a big design house. It was almost like a divorce. It took a couple of months for him to digest it. But you know, I would have been a little upset if he hadn’t been upset. When did you officially leave the company? Fernando: In February 2015, Laura started working on
FIRSTVIEW (3)
MONSE SPRING/SUMMER 2016 Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s designs for their first runway show last fall. Interpretations of the dress shirt were part of the brand’s breakout moment.
the business plan—a three-to-five-year structure so we could see what every day would cost us. At that point, I was helping Peter [Copping] for the Met Gala, and by May, we were both officially on our own. We started working on sketches and ideas, and sourcing fabrics. How did you settle on the aesthetic? Fernando: We wanted to have a product that was relatable to many women, and we thought that the idea of the dress shirt hadn’t been tapped into enough. It’s sexy and relatable, and women gravitate to it in a store even if they don’t know the brand. Given that we are a new company, we wanted to fall on an idea that is a little bit more bankable. What is the inspiration this season? Fernando: This season and going forward, we’re always going to gravitate toward stripes, shirt ideas, and bold colors. We want to make sure it looks easy, because that’s when a woman looks her sexiest. When you launched, you weren’t complete unknowns to the industry. Did that help? Fernando: Yes, but more than anything, what helped us is the training we received, and the understanding of what buyers gravitate toward. From a PR standpoint, we know what’s relevant in today’s market, and what kinds of looks celebrities are wearing. At Oscar, it was very formulaic—if a dress did well one season, we made sure we had two new versions for the following season. What’s been your biggest challenge? Laura: The finance part! I did get to see how the budgets and spending worked at Oscar, but of course the cash flow there was much larger. But our fabrics are actually nicer, because in a big company, you have to have a merchandising point of view, whereas we just buy what we really love. Fernando: It’s fun to be experimental and not be scared of doing something that won’t cover a woman’s bra, God forbid. We threw all those rules out the window, and tried what felt good and relevant to us. Who else has mentored you? Laura: Sarah Rutson at Net-A-Porter. Fernando: Laura reached out to her randomly on LinkedIn over the summer. We were surprised to hear back from her. We went to her office, and she was so warm and friendly. She saw the sketches and the shirt idea, and she told us to push that idea forward. Which retailers are on board? Laura: It was a complicated negotiation. Net-A-Porter wanted online for everything. Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue had a little war, but Bergdorf took it in the end, because they brought in Neiman Marcus.
We weren’t able to do Moda Operandi or MyTheresa. Fernando: That was heartbreaking, because all these people we had reached out to were really supportive, and we had to turn people down. Net-A-Porter made a monochromatic buy, which for us was surprising. At Oscar we would always hear, “Color, color, color, color.” What was Oscar like to work with? Laura: He was so much fun. There was never a quiet day. Fernando: It was all about gut reactions—very instinctual. Leave it or drop it! The decision-making happened very fast; that was the most fun part. How did you find his personality? Fernando: He was feisty. Laura: A year ago, I didn't miss the entertainment every day, but now, my life is so quiet without him. The office was very quiet after he passed away. You also worked with Peter Copping. Laura: He’s quiet. Fernando: He’s very different from Oscar—he’s extremely organized. We learned so much from him. Laura: He was very strict about everything we would do. You couldn’t have cell phones at the fittings. Oscar always had his phone at the fittings. [Laughs] When did you know you wanted to work in fashion? Laura: As early as 3 years old, I wanted to be a designer. I went to school for it, but I learned about sewing and patternmaking before that. Fernando: I learned sewing and patternmaking on the job. I learned it from Laura! Fernando: When I first came on board at Oscar, there was a need for someone to do embroidery and make little clutches. I started there. Eventually, I moved into eveningwear and VIP dressing. Laura: There was no job description at Oscar. You did whatever was needed at the time. Fernando: He liked having a small team. You’ve already dressed celebrities. How? Fernando: [Stylists] Erin Walsh, Kate Young, and Cristina Ehrlich have been very supportive from the beginning in getting their clients to wear Monse. Later on, I was in Lake Como researching fabrics and I contacted Amal Clooney. She saw our sketches and told us what she wanted, and she wore the dress immediately. What are your goals for the next five years? Laura: Everyone says that fashion brands aren’t profitable for the first 10 years, but I’m not okay with that. I want stability on the finance side, and healthy growth every year. Fernando: Maybe our first boutique! ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
I-CANDY
DAILY EXCLUSIVE!
IVANA TRUMP UNCENSORED
Donald, Donald, Donald! The New York Times et al are covering the presidential race, but the Trump we’re after is the ’80s fashion icon-turned-unrepentant jet-setter (with boyfriends to spare). She rang us up from her home in Miami.
Where are you living these days? I spend winters in Miami, spring and fall in New York, and in summer, I have a 300-year-old fisherman’s house in St. Tropez. I need to have a wardrobe for all seasons. I go to New York during Fashion Week, and see the shows for Dennis Basso, Zang Toi, Badgley Mischka, and Carolina Herrera. I wear a lot of Domenico Vacca—he does beautiful pantsuits, which I wear to do business. Silk pants and a blazer, and blouses with rhinestones and buttons. It’s very elegant and sophisticated. I also go to Marc Bouwer,
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
and for evening, I wear Zuhair Murad. I got married in two of his dresses. He was not well-known yet; now, everyone knows him, and he is very successful. I also wear Elie Saab and a lot of Roberto Cavalli. The clothes are stretchy—they don’t crease, they travel very well, and they have long sleeves so you can go from day to evening when you are in air-conditioned rooms. Are you friends with Roberto? We’re very good friends. I go to his parties in Sardinia! I know his wife, Eva. One year in Porto Cervo, I was in Cala di Volpe and he threw a party. It was raining that
G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 1 2 ) ; B F A N Y C . C O M ( 2 ) ; J O N A T H A N Z I E G L E R / M A R C D I M O V/ P A T R I C K M C M U L L A N / P A T R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M
BY EDDIE ROCHE
night. I jumped in the car with my friends and I went to Hotel Cala di Volpe, back to my suite, and then I saw Eva Cavalli appear in my doorway. Her boat had lost its anchor, so it was floating in the middle of the Cala di Volpe bay. She couldn’t get on the boat, so I ordered room service and we had a pajama party. It was a lot of fun. I’ve know Roberto for years and years. I was in his fashion show in Milan about 10 or 15 years ago as his muse. How do you describe your look? In New York, I’m more conservative. In the South of France, I’m sort of free. I have good-looking legs, so I like the dresses to be short, and I think I’m elegant, sophisticated, and sometimes, a bit over the top—but you know, that’s Ivana. What do you mean by “over the top”? Well you know my hairdo, and sometimes the jewelry and the dresses are very elegant. Murad and Elie Saab give you the idea of how I like to dress. I don’t like the huge ball gowns with the huge trains. I like the fitted dresses that show off your figure and are not necessarily translucent like Beyoncé’s. You also spend a lot of time in bikinis! I get them in St. Barths! There are a lot of boutiques there, and Vanita Rosa is one of them. In St. Tropez, there are 100 shops to choose from for bikinis, so if I go by one, I buy them. I probably have, easily, 100 different bikinis, because this is what I live in all summer long. Getting back to fashion shows: What’s knocked your socks off over the years? I was at Dennis Basso when he started his boutique— that must have been around 25 years ago—and a friend introduced me to him. I went to his showroom somewhere on Seventh Avenue, and Dennis was running late. My biggest fashion moment was when Dennis asked me to be the muse for his fashion show. I wore a full-length sable coat, and it was at a time when furs were sort of “No, no, no.” They said, “Are you not afraid of the press?” I said, “No, I’m not afraid of the press because I was raised in a communistic country, and I came to America to experience freedom and opportunity. I’m going to wear what I want to wear and nobody is going to tell me otherwise.” There was not one bad thing written in the press after the show. It was a lot of fun! What do you do with your old clothes? There is a lady named Linda—she’s in Philadelphia— and I give her my clothes and she sells them on eBay. Or I give them to charities like Red Cross and Lighthouse…I also go to Los Angeles, where there are consignment shops for different organizations. Sweet. Thoughts on fashion today? Women dress the way they want to dress. In the ’80s, there was not one night when I was not in a ball gown and jewels. It was very difficult, because the men put on their black ties and their tuxedo shirts. To get Donald into the bow tie was almost impossible, but we were out three to four nights a week at charity events or social events like the ballet and opera. It was difficult, because I was working a lot. I was running the Atlantic City casino and the Plaza Hotel. I was out all day long, and then I had to go and get ready with hair and makeup. I’m really very fast! I can do my makeup in 10 minutes, my hair in another 15 minutes, and then I just put on the dress and somebody zips me in. Do you like any of the new designers today, such as Alexander Wang or Joseph Altuzarra? You know, I’m really not following that many of the young designers. Your hair is always up now. It’s my signature. I go to Venice for the film festival,
“I THINK I’M ELEGANT, SOPHISTICATED, AND SOMETIMES, A LITTLE BIT OVER THE TOP—BUT YOU KNOW, THAT’S IVANA.” and I make an appointment with the hairdresser and I say, “I’m Ivana Trump.” They say, ‘Oh! I know your hairdo!’ Every bride who comes through Venice wants to have an Ivana Trump hairdo. My hairdo is sort of famous! It started with a Vogue photo shoot that I did. It’s very simple for me. I was wearing my hair down, but it’s more complicated, because your fringes fly over your eyes and over your lipstick. It’s harder to maintain than when it’s in a chignon. It doesn’t move—I just brush it through, and I can do it myself, or I have my hairdresser do it. Once my hair is blown out at the roots, I can pretty much do everything myself. Why do you think it’s important for men and women to always look good? It has a lot to do with your self-respect. I want to look my best at every age, and I think I look very good for my age. I take care of myself. I swim—my father was a champion swimmer and he put me in the swimming pool at the age of 2, and taught me how to swim. He would challenge me by saying, “If you can swim from this edge to that edge, you get five dollars,” so I swam. By the age of 6, my father had introduced me to skiing, and by the age of 12, I was so good at both sports that my coaches got together with my parents and they told me I had to decide on which sport I wanted to focus on. Swimming is an upperbody sport; skiing is all about the legs and the arms keep you balanced. I decided to go for skiing. I take care of myself; I go to the gym, I go for long walks, I have facials. I think it shows self-respect to do good and healthy stuff. I take vitamins, I eat well—a lot of vegetables, fresh fruit, Greek yogurt, and chicken. I don’t really splurge on pizza, as much as I love it. If I have pasta, it’s maybe once a week at lunchtime, because you can digest it. I don’t like late-night dinner—I like to go at 7 o’clock, or at the latest 8 o’clock. In the South of France, it’s a different story—I wake up at 6, I take my dog Tiger, who is a Yorkie, for a pee-pee, then I read the papers and watch CNN. By 9, my housekeeper has come in and she gives Tiger fresh chicken with carrots and string beans. What are your eating habits over there? I get a fresh salad. In the South of France, the fruit is also very delicious! Then I go to the beach, and I’m on the beach by 12 o’clock. Most of the people sleep until 2, because dinner doesn’t start until 10 o’clock. I don’t care how fabulous the party is; I’m always in bed no later than 1 a.m. It starts at 10, so you eat for two hours, and then you dance. Most of my friends who come for just a week to St. Tropez go to the nightclubs and just drink. Once I have eaten and danced, and I have spoken to everyone, I want to go to bed, because I get up at 6, and I want to have the whole day in front of me. It’s really about self-
respect and a bit about restricting yourself from the circumstances. Do you drink alcohol? I do! I have one or two glasses of wine a day. I don’t do any hard liquor. I like rosé, which in the South of France, most people drink—they go and order big bottles at lunchtime, like full liters, and drink them and then get smashed, and waste it on the table. I also like pinot grigio, a glass of white wine or maybe two in the evening, one before I go out and one during dinner. Red wine gives me a rash and champagne gives me a bloated tummy. Do you wear pieces from your daughter Ivanka’s jewelry collection? I do wear them, and I absolutely adore the pieces! They are my favorite. I have four pairs of her earrings, including the ones with the signature with orange in the back. They’re very beautiful. You must be very proud of her. I’m very proud of her because she is beautiful, and she was raised with values that I instilled in her. When I divorced Donald, the children were like 4, 6, and 8. I had full custody, and there was only one cook in the kitchen, which was me. Donald went along with it, and if I would say “no” to the kids, they would go to their father and say, “Daddy, Daddy can we get that and that...?” And he would ask, “What did mother say?” They would tell him, “Mommy said no,” so that meant no. I really raised them. I decided on their schooling and everything they did. When they were 21 and out of university, I gave them to Donald and said, “This is the final product—now it’s your job.” So he gave them jobs in his organization, which they are thriving in. They are very balanced, articulate, and well-educated, and I brought them all around the world with me so they know the world. I drove them on my boat to France, Italy, Turkey, the Greek Islands, Sardinia, and Corsica. They are very sophisticated, well-spoken, and educated. They are doing a great job! I’m proud of them. You and Donald seem to have a nice friendship today. We do! He is my best supporter, and Donald is doing great in his campaign. I think he would be a great president. I told him to use the slogan, “You think it, I say it.” He will negotiate deals. He is one of the most dynamic people in the world. He looks presidential, and he talks presidential, and he would make the changes he promises. I wish him all the best. Do you have any love in your life now? Actually, I have about three boyfriends! I’m definitely not getting married again, and I definitely don’t want to have children anymore, but I have companions. You have a fabulous life, don’t you? I do! Thank you! I earned it! I’ve worked all my life. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
DOSSIER
WATCH AND LEARN!
MEET THE SURVIVALISTS It’s no small feat to survive and thrive in our beloved but, let’s face it, tumultuous industry. We asked our favorite Front Row-ers how they’ve done it… BY ASHLEY BAKER
REBECCA TAYLOR
ELETTRA WIEDEMANN
BEEN HERE SINCE:
TENURE: 12 years. WHY I MADE IT: I have no idea. The
DESIGNER
JOHN TARGON AND SCOTT STUDENBERG DESIGNERS, BAJA EAST
TENURE: Since we were born—John was actually christened in Baby Dior. We immersed ourselves in magazines and malls early on. WHY WE MADE IT: A thirst for great product and building a fabulous wardrobe. We began our careers in wholesale, so we really learned the ins and outs of how to make a brand successful. During this time we made incredible relationships with the world’s best stores and these owners and buyers are now like family. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: Lady Gaga has become one of our most faithful clients and muse.
INAUGURAL SHOW: JOHN: An incredible show by Narciso Rodriguez. It was truly inspiring to see such a modern and architectural marriage in his clothes. SCOTT: I snuck into a Vera Wang show and called my mom and told her I went to the gay Super Bowl.… I could see Anna [Wintour] and André Leon Talley directly in front of me. GO-TO LOOK: JOHN: A black tee and cashmere ikat graffiti sweats with an NY baseball cap. SCOTT: Harem pants and a concert tee. ESSENTIAL READS: Susan Miller’s AstrologyZone BREAKFAST: JOHN: Peanut butter acai bowl from Juice Generation and aloe water. SCOTT: Gluten-free oatmeal with cashews, dried mango, and flax seed…and coconut water. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
I arrived in NYC over 20 years ago, and started my own business two years later. WHY I MADE IT: One of the most important things is staying true to who you are as a designer. Also, commitment to my customer—she is always top of mind. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: Ken Downing, Gloria Baume, Hal Rubenstein…to name a few. NYFW HIGH: My brother turned up at a show as a surprise. GO-TO LOOK: It’s usually something from the new collection. ESSENTIAL READS: Fiction, so I can existentially remove myself. TECH MUST: My Kindle for some dream time on the subway. It’s the closest I get to meditation.
ANNE FULENWIDER EDITOR IN CHIEF, MARIE CLAIRE
HOW I SURVIVE: Ginger bombs and bacon. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: David Lauren was my first-ever boss in New York and has always been super supportive. INAUGURAL SHOW: It was Isaac Mizrahi’s, and it was in the ’90s. ALL-TIME HIGH: Being on lockdown backstage with Beyoncé, Jay Z, Rihanna, and the Kardashian clan. MODE OF TRANSPORT: Uber, pedicab, motorcycle boot, whatever it takes. GO-TO LOOK: Major jacket. Leather pants. Serious boots. BEAUTY ESSENTIALS: SK-II masks, Bioderma for makeup removal, and SoulCycle with Eve in Brooklyn Heights. BREAKFAST: Avocado toast and a soft-boiled egg. Protein is essential. BEVERAGE: Multiple cappuccinos all day, water, and then lillet with a splash of soda before a late-night show.
MODEL AND BLOGGER
fact that I provide food, maybe? FAITHFUL FRIENDS: I’ve known Prabal Gurung, Monique Péan, Thakoon, and Chris Benz since we were itty-bitty babies—I am so proud of everything they have accomplished. I’ve become close to Adam Lippes, who I totally adore.
INAUGURAL SHOW: I can’t remember, but I know it was in Milan and that I felt like I was going to faint from terror when I walked out onto the runway. Luckily, I didn’t. ALL-TIME HIGH: I loved and appreciated all the support and enthusiasm for my pop-up concept, Goodness, a few years ago—it really meant so much to me.
MODE OF TRANSPORT: Subway and by foot. Uber and taxis are a waste of time, money, and stress. GO-TO LOOK: Brands usually ask to dress me. Am I revealing a big secret? FASHION PEEVE: Sample sizes. BREAKFAST: Hard-boiled eggs with sriracha. BEVERAGE: I make my own protein shake with vanilla whey protein, collagen, probiotics, coconut water, primrose and flax oil, and vegan coconut yogurt. Also, a lot of water.
THIS WEEK, I’LL BE… Working my ass off on my cookbook and probably crying every night.
ROOPAL PATEL
KEN DOWNING
FASHION DIRECTOR, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE
SVP AND FASHION DIRECTOR, NEIMAN MARCUS
FASHION HISTORY: I’ve been in the biz for 35 years.
TENURE: 21 years, but my love affair with fashion began as a child. WHY I MADE IT: I love what I do! I wake up every day feeling blessed to work in fashion. I see beauty everywhere, thanks to the magic and creativity of the talented people in our industry. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: Meredith Melling, Robert Burke, Tracy Margolies, Thom Browne, George Sotelo, Linda Fargo, Jason Wu, Nick Wooster, Elizabeth von der Goltz, Adam Lippes, Francisco Costa, and Christian Langbein. INAUGURAL SHOW: It was either Isaac Mizrahi or Marc Jacobs. I remember I wanted the show to go on and on. FAVORITE HIGH: Finding new talent. We saw Brandon Maxwell’s collection last season, and it’s now launching into our Beverly Hills store for spring. GO-TO LOOK: I love dressing up for Fashion Week. It always feels like the first week of school. I have a little help from our amazing team at the New York store. Our Fifth Avenue Club has an incredible team of personal shoppers.
ELIZABETH VON DER GOLTZ
B FA N YC . C O M ( 3 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 6 )
SVP AND GMM, BERGDORF GOODMAN
TENURE: I started as an assistant buyer at Barneys New York in 1997. WHY I MADE IT: Perseverance. My love for fashion and creativity is almost an addiction. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: Linda Fargo, Robert Burke, Nelli Kim, Andrew Gn, Jim Gold, and my team at Bergdorf’s. PIT STOP: I run into the Chelsea Market to grab tacos at Los Tacos No. 1. They are seriously delicious. ALL-TIME HIGH: Duran Duran played in a small venue for a Juicy party. John Taylor was one of my teen obsessions. IN MY CLOSET: I start off slow for NYFW and channel what I wear depending on the day’s shows. For Milan, London, and Paris, I plan in advance, as I don’t want to miss that one pair of shoes or top, it can throw off your entire day. STILL AWED BY: Certain icons. Mr. [Azzedine] Alaïa once personally handed me shoes I ordered for my wedding and gave me his felicitations. I was so touched and moved I remember thinking I didn’t even need to get married; Mr. Alaïa just gave me shoes. BEAUTY MUSTS: Tata Harper elixir vitae, Royal Fern phytoactive anti-aging serum and cream, Natura Bisse retinol eye serum, and La Mer eye concentrate. BREAKFAST: I make a kale and berry smoothie every morning in my Vitamix. I also drink hot water with a teaspoon of Moon Juice beauty dust. CONFIDENTIAL TO NYFW’S ORGANIZERS: Please make the show locations closer together and not near the entrance of the Holland Tunnel.
JASON WU DESIGNER
TENURE: Nine years. WHY I MADE IT: Dedication to my craft— and coffee.
FAITHFUL FRIENDS: My partner, Gustavo. FIRST SHOW: Playing dress up with my dolls when I was 8.
WOW MOMENT: Seeing the collection come to life seconds before the models walk out.
MY NYFW RIDE: A Cadillac. GO-TO LOOK: My uniform—black sweater, black blazer, black jeans, and Stan Smiths. FRONT ROW FIXTURES: My parents—they usually come from Taipei. ESSENTIALS: A photo printer, Instagram, Caudalie Beauty Elixir, but I really rely on my great Wu team. BREAKFAST: A hard-boiled egg. SURVIVAL SECRET: A few hours of sleep. NOTE FOR NYFW ORGANIZERS: Relax, and enjoy!
AMY SMILOVIC DESIGNER, TIBI
TENURE: I started my company
Although my mother insists I have been putting her clothes together since I was 6, so if you count that, 47. WHY I MADE IT: My enormous passion, keeping my eyes, mind, and heart open, maintaining a strong work ethic, being honest, yet kind, and never believing “good enough” is ever good enough. And always remembering humility is far more attractive than ego, and to never forget the customer. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: The industry is my family. I am blessed that I have long, lasting, and sincere relationships. I’m proud to call two women who are dear to me and a constant inspiration my friends. Diane von Furstenberg, who I met as a young boy and inspired me to follow my dream, and Anna Wintour, whose tireless commitment to our industry is an inspiration. INAUGURAL SHOW: I attended one with my mother at Frederick & Nelson in Seattle. It was a showcase of all the global designer brands they carried—I was bitten by the bug and never looked back. I also modeled in runway shows when I was young. MODE OF TRANSPORT: I see over 115 shows in New York alone. My driver, Alberto, is sent from heaven—he knows where to go by designer name. GO-TO LOOK: Skinny pants, skinny ties, shrunken jackets, a moto, Chelsea boots, and lots of blond hair blowing in the wind. READING LIST: I don’t read any trade publications, blogs, or websites until the entire Fashion Week cycle is over. I don’t want others’ opinions distracting me. I have always trusted my eyes and heart, and they’ve never been wrong. IN THE BAG: Two iPhones, an iPad, four power cords, a charged power stick, Sisley eye cream, La Mer lip balm, and a flannel to wipe my boots.
in 1997. I was in business prior to that—advertising and marketing at Ogilvy & Mather and Amex.
WHY I MADE IT: A business background is very important in this industry. I’m also not afraid of change and risk. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: My longest relationship in this industry is probably with Sarah Rutson—she was at Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and was the first to pick up my collection. ALL-TIME HIGH: I can be maybe quite delusional about the collection—I always think each one is better than the last. GO-TO LOOK: My look is crazy, militantly the same—dark jeans, gray tee, sneakers, and a navy sweater. I can’t have anything I’m wearing influence the process. BEAUTY MUSTS: Anything Bobbi Brown— I’m a true addict. I try to work out, but ultimately, it’s the stairs to my office that give me the best workout. We’re on the 10th floor. BREAKFAST: Quest Bars, every day. ON THE CALENDAR: We’re gearing up for our 20th anniversary, so our eyes are on the future. We’re showing in a giant glass box this season—it’s a huge space, but we’ve set a very limited number of seats. It should feel intimate in a very exposed way.
CONFIDENTIAL TO NYFW’S ORGANIZERS: Play nice. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
DOSSIER
ERIN SUMWALT
LISA SALZER
FASHION DIRECTOR, PEOPLE STYLEWATCH
DESIGNER, LULU FROST
NYFW TENURE: I’ve been working in
NYFW TENURE: More than 10 years, less than 20.
WHY I MADE IT: At the end of the day, it’s all about creativity. Even though the media landscape has changed so rapidly, there will always be a need to be creative and create interesting content. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: Meggan Crum, Sarah Meikle, Nancy Walsh, Molly Biscone, Melanie Fisher, Antonella Spina. FIRST-EVER SHOW: I was working at Elle and it was the Versus by Versace show at Bryant Park. Everyone lifted the yellow Versace designed seat cushions after the show.
ALL-TIME HIGH: I found out that I was pregnant with my son, Hudson, during one Fashion Week. I spent the entire time hoping I wouldn’t get sick in the middle of a show. GO-TO LOOK: It’s all about feminine skirts and dresses paired with a flat, heel, or boot. I may get crazy and throw a jean into the mix, but you will never see me in trousers. BREAKFAST: Porridge with raspberries and honey, and sourdough toast with butter and jam. VALENTINE’S DAY GAME PLAN: It’s a big deal in my family. We decorate, we bake, we get crafty. My son and I start making our Valentines in January! We will probably have an early breakfast with heart-shaped pancakes before I head off to the shows.
the fashion industry since I graduated from college in 2004. WHY I MADE IT: Over time, I’ve come to see my longevity in the fashion game as the result of my decision-making skills. Of course, I’ve made mistakes over the years, but my big choices about how I run my business have led me to stay on top of my game for over a decade. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: I’ve had a wonderful long-term relationship with Lesley M. M. Blume, who also married me and my husband, Marlon, this past October! Some of my other great fashion buddies include designers Simon Alcantara and Magda Berliner, stylists Susan Joy and Mary Alice Stephenson, and my friends Dalia Oberlander, owner of Latest Revival, and Julia Erdman of Moncler. NYFW DEBUT: My first-ever presentation was at my two-year anniversary party/mini-presentation, which was in 2006! I held the event at Tenjune and the Misshapes DJ’d. STILL FAZED BY: Lame posers. Many fashion people are awesome and hardworking, but posers who aren’t willing to work hard are a drag. BEAUTY MUSTS: Bobbi Brown is always my go-to for all things makeup; I only use Clarins on my skin. BREAKFAST: Whole-grain toast with tahini hummus, mini Persian cucumber slices, and walnuts seasoned with salt, pepper, and olive oil. It’s delicious and fast!
VALENTINE’S DAY GAME PLAN: I love going to a simple and delicious meal with Marlon at our neighborhood stalwart, Piadina, for awesome tagliatelle bolognese and their great house red.
MICHAEL CARL MARKET DIRECTOR, VANITY FAIR
TENURE: Probably too long. WHY I MADE IT: My looks. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: The people I met at my first editor job at Interview magazine. FIRST-EVER SHOW: I worked the Oscar de la Renta show in 1998 and I sat at Sean John in 2000. NYFW HIGHLIGHTS: It used to be the parties, now, it’s the Nike concierge. ALL-TIME HIGH: Sitting next to Helen Mirren at a show and teaching her how to take a selfie. (I have proof.) MODE OF TRANSPORT: My unicorn, and if that fails, Uber. GO-TO LOOK: Boy meets world—Heather Shimokawa helps me put looks together. FAVORITE FIXTURE: I used to love sitting next to Ingrid Sischy. ESSENTIAL READS: You are a Badass: How to Stop Doubting Your Greatness and Start Living an Awesome Life, by Jen Sincero STILL FAZED BY: Falling models. It’s very jarring. ANY SPECIAL PLANS? I’m going to wear color.
CONFIDENTIAL TO NYFW’S ORGANIZERS: More unicorns.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
JOHNSON HARTIG DESIGNER, LIBERTINE
WHY I MADE IT: Primarily a very clear, unique vision. We know what we do well, and concentrate on doing that. Our clothes fill a gap, as every designer makes perfectly pretty clothes: Ours offers something more than that. Libertine clothes speak to people with their joie de vivre, cheekiness, and overt decoration. We have established an enthusiastic following that has supported us from the beginning, and now a whole group of other designers seem to appreciate our aesthetic. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: Thom Browne is a great old friend from before either one of us were fashion designers. NYFW DEBUT: Fall ’04 at St. Bartholomew’s Church on Park Avenue. It was fantastical in that it was very intimate, yet we had Anna Wintour, Grace Coddington, Jimmy Fallon, Michael Stipe, and lots of other fun people we never expected. We also had bagpipe players and a dollhouse set up onstage for the grand finale. GO-TO LOOK: I tend to wear the same clothes for weeks on end, always some sort of athletic pant or short, and either a Libertine hoodie or jacket. My style is hip-hop mogul, in case you don’t know—ask me the story behind that over drinks sometime. STILL FAZED BY: All of it! VALENTINE’S DAY GAME PLAN: I’ll cry in bed whilst eating a large box of bonbons.
FERN MALLIS
FASHION CONSULTANT
TENURE: I started out winning a contest as a guest editor at Mademoiselle, and 45 years later I am still involved in the industry. WHY I MADE IT: Hard work, a youthful personality, curiosity, and respect for the creative people and process. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: Stan Herman, Jeffrey Banks, Jane Hertzmark Hudis, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Norma Kamali, Donna Karan…to name few. INAUGURAL SHOW: Orbach’s department store in NYC. Their annual runway show featured Paris couture styles alongside their fabulous knockoff versions. MODE OF TRANSPORT: My own car—last season, my odometer clocked 420 miles for that one week. FASHION RANT: I’m so tired of the constant conversation of the status and future of Fashion Week. VALENTINE’S DAY GAME PLAN: I miss the Bryant Park tents on Valentine’s Day when we would gift attendees with red roses, pink Hershey’s Kisses, or some years, buckets of condoms!
VERONICA SWANSON BEARD
VERONICA MIELE BEARD CO-DESIGNER, VERONICA BEARD
CO-DESIGNER, VERONICA BEARD
BEEN HERE SINCE: I loved bringing fashion to the trading desk on Wall Street, where I started my career. I did a quick stint in ad sales at Vogue and finally took the deep dive into the industry in 2010 with the launch of Veronica Beard! BEAUTY MUSTS: I’m constantly applying my Neutrogena tinted lip balm or using Tom Ford’s Lip Color Shine in “bare” over a CoverGirl lip stain. BREAKFAST: I crave a yogurt parfait with granola and fruit. I also love a hard-boiled egg on the go or if I can actually sit, scrambled egg whites with avocado and cheddar. BEVERAGE: I will walk through a blizzard to get my Joe’s coffee. I’m a true addict. At about 3 p.m., the Liquiteria bulldozer smoothie (I add blueberries) is like having a liquid PB&J! VALENTINE’S DAY GAME PLAN: I get the kids special cards and candy for their friends. We usually go to Dylan’s Candy Bar a few weekends in advance. Who doesn’t love getting a secret Valentine in school? As for me, every year, my husband plans a night out and he’s got the best imagination!
NYFW TENURE: My first job in fashion was a summer internship at Oscar de La Renta between my junior and senior year in college. My first day I was asked to answer the phones while the receptionist went to a doctor’s appointment. Mr. de La Renta called and I didn’t know how to transfer his call, so I hung up on him five times in a row. I was mortified, but he was lovely and gracious about it. FIRST SHOW: Narciso Rodriguez, in 2002. I worked there in 2002. Narciso was “It” at that moment—what an incredibly talented man. It was a thrill to work there! GO-TO LOOK: Something that’s in stock, that I can sell off my back. STILL FAZED BY: Anna Wintour. BREAKFAST: Hard-boiled eggs or oatmeal with butter, milk, and brown sugar. It’s more like dessert. BEAUTY MUSTS: My vitamins from Dr. Lipman and green juices.
ILARIA URBINATI STYLIST
BEEN HERE SINCE: Forever and a day. G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 3 ) ; B F A N Y C . C O M ( 4 ) ; J A R E D S I S K I N / P A T R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ; D A V I D C R O T T Y/ P A T R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M
(Since I was 18.)
STELLENE VOLANDES
EXECUTIVE STYLE DIRECTOR, TOWN & COUNTRY
INDUSTRY LONGEVITY: Over 15 years. WHY I MADE IT: Equal parts perspective and genuine excitement.
FAITHFUL FRIENDS: My current partner in crime, Mr. Will Kahn.
ALL-TIME HIGH: Sitting right behind Kanye West at Ralph Lauren. It was a photobombing bonanza. GO-TO LOOK: I’m pretty consistent—black pants, Derek Lam blouse, Pologeorgis fur. The jewelry changes. FAVORITE NYFW FIXTURE: Whoever is first to yell, “Uncross your legs!” BEAUTY MUSTS: Rodin face oil, Listerine breath strips, Vando at Punch Fitness.
CONFIDENTIAL TO NYFW’S ORGANIZERS: Can someone invite the cast
WHY I MADE IT: Being a workaholic, anal-retentive perfectionist Virgo doesn’t hurt. Also, I love my job and am always trying to one-up myself—I don’t let it get old. FAITHFUL FRIENDS: Kelly Cutrone was one of the first people to hire me. My aunt, [designer and retailer] Laura Urbinati, was sending me all around Paris on buying appointments at Balenciaga and Margiela when I was only 18. The fashion PR companies—brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Elie Saab, Burberry, and Gucci—were all very good to me from the beginning. INAUGURAL SHOW: I sat front row at Balenciaga in Paris when Nicolas Ghesquière was just starting—not a bad first show! NYFW HIGH: Getting to meet Francisco Costa—he’s probably the most gracious person I’ve met in this business. GO-TO LOOK: No time. I usually just throw on a bunch of black and go.
“MY STYLE IS HIP-HOP MOGUL, IN CASE YOU DON’T KNOW—ASK ME THE STORY BEHIND THAT OVER DRINKS SOMETIME.” —Johnson Hartig
NAEEM KHAN DESIGNER
WHY I MADE IT: Having a point of view and a consistent story. FIRST-EVER SHOW: A luncheon at Sotheby’s that was a pre-launch to my main collection on the New York runway. GO-TO LOOK: It’s a spontaneous decision, but something classic. KEY PRODUCTS: I’m a big fan of essential oils and Elizabeth Arden products. I love great candles to establish a mood. My favorite is Diptyque’s Ofresia. BREAKFAST: Oatmeal and a large coffee. VALENTINE’S DAY GAME PLAN: Red roses and champagne.
of Hamilton?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
NEXTGen
FUN FACT: Hudson debuted on the Spring 2011 Chanel runway; he has since been profiled by Vanity Fair.
Cheat day! “We’re typically healthy eaters,” Brad says. “We do the Paleo diet with a few carbs, rice, and potatoes.”
The boys ponder their milkshake orders. “I’m getting black cow with marshmallows as my topping,” Hudson, 7, says. “It’s probably, like, 2,000 calories.”
For Jameson, 4: “Same.” Meanwhile, Brad ponders a PB&J version. Or maybe a frosty banana concoction?
MILK MEN Jameson, Brad, and Hudson showing us their Blue Steels.
DADDY DAY CARE Model Brad Kroenig and his sons, Hudson and Jameson, recently took us along for their deliciously indulgent visit to Hamilton’s, a West Village luncheonette, for milk shakes and fashion chat. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEFANIA CURTO
“I feel like I drank a cow!”
Talk, naturally, turns to Karl Lagerfeld, Hudson’s godfather. “I mostly come into New York to have dinner with him in Soho,” explains the second-grader, who lives in New Jersey. As for upcoming get-togethers? “I’m excited about going to Cuba in May for Chanel Resort,” Hudson says. “I think it’s going to look pretty and colorful. I’m reading a book about it in school.”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Needless to say, the treats are a hit. Before we leave, Hudson confesses that he’s eager to follow in his father’s footsteps and be a professional model. He counts Karlie and Cara D. as his faves. “What’s a female model?” Jameson asks.
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“That was delicious!”
HAUTEStuff “I don’t like sleeping with people I really love. I don’t want to sleep with them because sex cannot last, but affection can last forever.”
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“ Want girls to let you put your fingers in certain places? Get a manicure.”
SEX LET’S TALK ABOUT
4
When it comes to the sultry stuff, you refuse to hold back. Just another reason why we love you!
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“My job is to make people feel sensual.”
“I’VE HAD AN EXTRAORDINARY SEX LIFE.”
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“The sexiest people are thinkers.”
“SOMETIMES I’M REALLY DRESSED UP, AND IT REALLY TURNS ME ON.”
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“ People are against bisexuality. It’s either s**t or get off the pot. It would be great if things were that black and white, but life is all about ambiguities, and sometimes you have to make up the rules as you go along. It would have been easy for me to be completely gay. There was nothing holding me back. In fact, I started out assuming I would be a gay guy who didn’t really have relationships, but who would have sex anytime.”
“THE WORLD WOULD BE A BETTER PLACE IF PEOPLE JUST ENGAGED IN SEX AND DIDN’T WORRY ABOUT IT.”
E
G
A
H
B D
F
ANSWERS: 1. (F) KARL LAGERFELD; 2. (E) ISAAC MIZRAHI; 3. (C) TOM FORD; 4. (H) RICK OWENS; 5. (G) STELLA MCCARTNEY; 6. (A) YVES SAINT LAURENT; 7. (B) MARC JACOBS; 8. (D) VIVIENNE WESTWOOD FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 6 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ( 2 )
C
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DAILYMail
FLACK FILES SPECIAL
THE WILDLIFE
OF NYFW Subject: THINGS TO DISCUSS Dear Friends, Welcome one, welcome all. It’s the first day of shows, which means that all the fashion animals are guaranteed to be prancing, pawing, and patrolling. Allow this quick field guide to help you navigate the jungle. THE “DON’T YOU KNOW WHO I AM?” GUY: A ubiquitous animal on the scene, he is easily identified by a love of drop-crotch athleisure and Nikes. He travels in small packs, usually comprised of doe-eyed females, and he crashes parties. His entrance tactics include the power phrase “Don’t you know who I am?” accompanied by a venomous eye roll. He may or may not be filming iPhone footage at the party for a reel for his fledgling media company. He’s a big deal. THE WORLD-WEARY PARTY REPORTER: This poor, fragile critter has to cover 17 events in one night. You will recognize him by his inability to sustain eye contact past five seconds as he has to scan the crowd for interview candidates. He is a shy, trembling creature who is rarely seen in daylight, so please give him a sound bite and let him move on. THE PASSIVE-AGGRESSIVE POWER PUBLICIST: You know her from her mass e-mail blast that apologized for the BCC nature of the message (impossible to send personals with a Rolodex as large and powerful as hers, no?), yet simultaneously invited all her unnamed recipients to network over coffees when Fashion Week dies down. Absolutely everything she says, even if complimentary, is rude. THE ICE QUEEN EDITRIX: She selects only the top invitations and then attends 30 percent of what she accepts. Aside from seeing her killer look on the style pages of The New York Times, you may have spotted her at your Tracy Anderson class (only if you’re a member, though). Front and center, she didn’t miss a step or break a sweat, while you flailed like a frog on a hot plate in the back. Do not make eye contact with this animal, as she will surely turn tail and flee to her next venue.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
THE FLAKY HOT DJ: A nocturnal predator who has a universal ensemble of a crop top and thigh-high gladiator sandals, no matter what the weather. She’s been known to let the black car that you sent for her sit for 1.5 hours outside her Bushwick apartment, because she was in the bath and left her cell on vibrate. She makes $3,000 an hour to put together an iTunes playlist that looks suspiciously like the soundtrack to your junior prom, but please, don’t hate. THE OVEREAGER TALENT MANAGER: You can smell this one coming a mile away, because desperation is cruel like that. He’s really keen to get his C-list clients exposure at your A-list event. “She’s totally happy to tweet about your water sponsor!” he says. “Or what if we dress her entirely in Budweiser bottles?” THE CONSUMMATE PROFESSIONAL: An extremely rare specimen, this delightful creature shows up on time to the event, waits patiently in line, and gives his or her name politely to those at check-in. He graciously chats up the designers, thanks them for a lovely evening, browses the collections, and then publishes a review the next day without need for excessive follow up. Rumor has it there are five of these left in the world, and they’re reproducing at the rate of the giant panda—extinction sadly anticipated by 2020. THE TRUE A-LISTER: Let’s be honest, you’ll probably never see this snow leopard. But if you do, you can expect her to come in head-to-toe haute couture, with her own personal wind machine and the meanest handler of all time. She confirmed her attendance three minutes before walking in the door, so I hope you have your photo agencies on speed dial, because she’ll hit your red carpet, mingle for 18 seconds, and then head on to Rihanna’s penthouse for a private party. THE NARCISSISTIC DESIGNER: A mule who somehow ended up in a herd of zebras, this one just can’t get enough attention. No press is bad press, unless that press is a picture of her in which her upper arm looks slightly chubby, buried on page 17 of Getty. She’s the sole person who ever bore witness to this injustice, and she found it by cyber stalking herself at 3 a.m. Never mind the obscurity of this photo, she’ll bray incessantly about it until you contact the agency and have it removed. THE B-LIST BLOGGER FLOCK: To date, none of them has ever been spotted alone. Abiding by safety in numbers, they travel in packs of three to five, to take one another’s photos, of course. You’ll recognize them by their matching Rockstud heels (gifted), designer bags (daddy paid for), and token Dreamdry blow-outs (The Stevie, please!). Most recognizable by their deafening cacophony of geese-like chatter that is occasionally broken up by the staccato click of her iPhone camera. ß
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TO: All you beautiful people at #NYFW CC: Your assistants BCC: Your moms
In honor of chic week, the anonymous publicist behind The Flack Files (a delicious column that runs every Tuesday on fashionweekdaily.com) has pulled together a guide to the rare creatures one might encounter during show season. Stay safe, friends.
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Victoria Dipiazza ‘16 Fashion Merchandising Interned at Anthropologie, Marc Jacobs, John Varvatos, CollegeFashionista
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