The Daily Front Row

FEBRUARY 12, 2016

cushnie et ochs gabrielA hearst self-portrait rodarte revisited au revoir, patricia field!

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THE TRUTH

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FASHION’S

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PHENOM

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The Daily Wonders…

What’s the last thing you bought?

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Happy Friday, loves. ICYMI, Calvin Klein is hosting a party tonight—in Brooklyn, for a change. The affair is happening along with Dazed to toast its “Dazed 100” feature, which celebrates the visionaries expected to shape fashion, art, music, and beyond in 2016. Expect performances by ARCA and KELELA...and Uber surge pricing on your return trip to Manhattan.

HEARD

THE SOFT SPOT!

“We have been living with a fashion calendar and system that is from another era.”

With Doutzen Kroes, who appears in the new campaign for Repeat Cashmere

SHOE OF THE DAILY Meet Stuart Weitzman’s Lowland boot in buff suede. A flat incarnation of the iconic Highland, it works with everything from dark denim to printed dresses.

Top it with a cape for a cool-weather look. $798, stuartweitzman.com.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

retouched by an angel

What if Rick Owens tried “The Donald?”

—Tom Ford, in his decision to stage a direct-toconsumer show

DAILY THROWDOWN: THE CUT EDITION There’s a new Cut in town—no, not New York’s beloved fashion vertical. This Cut is Equinox’s new cardio-centric boxing class, founded by workout guru Christa DiPaolo.

How does she stack up to The Cut’s founding editor, Amina Akhtar?

Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Pizza and Executive Editor salads for Ashley Baker the entire Managing Editor office. You're welcome!

Tangie Silva Design Director Jill Serra Wilde A shot of wheatExecutive Fashion Director grass.

Natasha Silva-Jelly Fashion Editor Paige Reddinger Nothing...I'm Senior Editor saving up for Kristen Heinzinger some Gucci loafers.

Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Designer Madalena Long Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jean Borrie Contributing Copy Editors Joseph Manghise, Cynthia Puleo Imaging Specialists Neal Clayton, RJ Hamilton, George Maier Editorial Assistant Kassidy Silva Dog food, which was why I was Mark Tevis late to work.

Publisher Fashion & Luxury Goods Director Chloe Worden Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Snow boots, Digital Director belatedly.

Daniel Chivu Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Midwest Kathy Burke Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor

To advertise, call (646) 768-8102 Or e-mail: mark@dailyfrontrow.com getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row

The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2016. All rights reserved.

Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

Requests for reprints must b submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste.301, New York, NY 10107.

CHRISTA

Hometown: Las Vegas. I know—an actual native!

Go-to snack: GoMacro, Macrobar in Sweet Rejuvenation Cashew Butter Signature workout move: I'm obsessed with push-ups, any and all variations.

Signature look: When I'm not in workout clothes and sneakers, I like a casual look of jeans, wedges, and a tank top.

Guiltiest pleasure: A night at home with my fiancé, great movie, pizza, and bottle of red wine.

AMINA

Hometown: El Paso, TX, but I was born in Reno, Nevada. We moved. A lot.

Go-to snack: Fage 2 percent cherry yogurt Signature workout move: Yoga. I’m all about downward dog to plank.

Signature look: All black always, but for workouts, I throw in some pink. Go figure.

Essential reads: The Daily (obviously), Refinery29, Reddit, Twitter. I love digital, what can I say?

Guiltiest pleasure: Binge-watching Netflix when I should be writing.

On the cover:

b f a n y c . c o m ( 2 ) ; ge t t y i m ages ; sh u t t ers t o c k ; a l l o t hers c o u r t es y

How did you HEAR ABOUT REPEAT? Years ago, we were shooting an editorial and the stylist, Jetteke van Lexmond, had Repeat scarves at the shoot. I immediately asked if I could keep one, as I loved the way it felt on my skin. After a while, the Repeat family asked me to work with them.

What do you like about the brand?

I love that it’s a big family and they work from their passion to create amazing quality and luxury for women.

Do you wear cashmere 24/7?

Not when I'm on holiday in Ibiza, but eight months a year, for sure!

WHAT'S YOUR LOOK? It’s a mix of boyish meets feminine— timeless pieces combined with a great bag or a pop of color.

Brandusa Niro

Editor in Chief, CEO

Ruth Bell backstage at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi's Spring 2016 show. Photographed Alessandro Zeno/Imaxtree.

S:10.25”

S:13”

©2016 Maybelline LLC.

SCENE

New year, new moves! So many of our favorite publicists have switched gears since we saw you last. Here’s a primer…

ERIKA ALBIES, formerly of Miu Miu, joined IMG as VP of global fashion communications, and we couldn’t be happier.

ALEX DICKERSON, founder of Le Brain public relations, has joined team Daily as creative services director. BILLY DALEY, most recently of Marc Jacobs, has been named CMO of Bally, based in London.

Darling, you are missed! CHRISTINA CHEN, formerly of Alexander Wang, has moved to Detroit and is now director of marketing for Shinola. JULIA MURPHREE, has joined NARS Cosmetics as executive director for U.S. PR. CLAIRE BUXTON is the new director of PR at Maybelline New York. MICHELLE KESSLERSANDERS, formerly of Vera Wang and T, was tapped as president of Calvin Klein Collection.

AUSTIN SMEDSTEAD, previously of Lacoste, is the new PR director at Kiehl’s. FLORINKA PESENTI, formerly of Gucci, is the new VP of PR of luxury collections at Ralph Lauren.

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With designer Claudia Li

What’s your backstory?

After Parsons, I worked for Brandon Maxwell, helping design and style for Lady Gaga, then I worked as a womenswear designer at J.W. Anderson.

Last year, I started my collection.

What’s THE VIBE? It’s about self-preservation after an emotional and mental destruction.

HEARD

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What’s it like working with Natasha Poly?

Natasha is one of the best movers in the business, and she understands what the clothes need to come alive.

How did you help transform Natasha into the “Express girl”?

—KARL LAGERFELD, of his team at CHANEL, in 2009 From left: Erika Albies, Alex Dickerson, Billy Daley, Christina Chen, Julia Murphree, and Florinka Pesenti.

chic contours

Maybelline New York makeup artist Gato went for a trifecta of beauty: flawless skin, feathered brows, and a stained berry lip for Khan’s last show. To re-create the look, it’s all about accentuating the angles of the face. Add a hint of the palette’s contour shade below the cheekbones, then apply the highlight hue above. Finish with a light dusting of the blush on the apple of the cheeks. BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK FaceStudio Master Contour ($12.99), Maybelline.com.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

INEZ & VINOODH TIME!

The photographers shot the Spring ’16 ad campaign for Express.

“We don’t talk to marketing people.

We do what our inner voices tell us.

We’re kind of the Joan of Arcs of the fashion business.”

naeem khan, Spring 2016

Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

PRO TRICK: A touch of lip gloss in a hotpink shade on the apples of the cheek creates a sexy flush.

The Express girl is young, cool, confident, and a lot of fun. She dances through life, thrilled at where she is and at what lies ahead of her. We had great music on set and all danced with her around the pool and on the beach.

What was your vision for the campaign?

An expressive, loving-life kind of enthusiasm and a sense of easy style.

What was it like shooting in Puerto Rico?

The location at Dorado Beach was unbelievable. It was our first time there, and it had so many great areas to shoot, which helped bring in some spectacular shots for the video.

DO YOU often shoot TV and film?

Yes, and we love it. Planning the film brings in more inspiration as it forces you to contract a story line through movement, music, editing, and effects.

b f a n y c . c o m ( 6 ) ; f i r s t v i e w ; p a t r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ; a l l o t her s c o u r t e s y

NEWBIE ALERT!

dynamicDuo

Power Play Over the years, The Daily has accompanied Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs to pole-dancing lessons and manhunting sessions.

When they turned down our request to visit an allmale revue, we feared the worst— have they lost their sexy? Over cocktails at the Smyth hotel, the Cushnie et Ochs designers explain their evolution.

BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO This is going to be our most serious conversation ever.

Michelle Ochs: No, because we just ordered cocktails.

You have new investors, including [Hilldun and InterLuxe CEO] Gary Wassner. Are you rebranding?

Michelle: It’s not a rebranding or a retooling; it’s super…enhancing. We’re adding gasoline to the fire.

Carly Cushnie: We had a solid DNA and aesthetic that people have come to know us for. The brand was walking, and now we’re ready to run.

Will the look be less sexy?

Both: No! [In unison] Carly: It will be expanded. There had been a misconception that we only did dresses, but there’s a lot more to the collection than that. As well as expanding the collection, we want to expand our FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

offering outside just womenswear. That will help broaden the idea of us being a lifestyle brand.

Which categories interest you?

Michelle: Swimwear—we did a capsule, but we’d like to go deeper—and knitwear, which has always done well for us. As women, we want to own the whole look, and we’re now able to have the right partners to go into those categories.

Were you on the hunt for those partnerships?

Michelle: It was very organic. We’d heard so many horror stories, so we wanted to make sure we found the right fit.

Carly: We had already been in discussions with potential partners, but they didn’t end up being the right fit. Our business was doing well, so it

wasn’t like we were going to sink.

How did you meet your new CEO, Peter Arnold?

Carly: Gary Wassner introduced us, and we immediately knew he was what the company needs.

The initial meeting was about sales, marketing, and his perception of the brand. He brings so much from being at Cynthia Rowley and the CFDA. Michelle: He’s worked with creative—he knows it isn’t just about the bottom line. He understands the process, and he gave us an ease that none of the other candidates gave.

What about Gary?

Carly: We’ve been working with Hilldun for many years now, and our relationship has grown. Even before this partnership, we could always call him.

f i r s t v i e w ( 5 ) ; b fa n yc . c o m ( 1 )

He was someone we could rely on.

Michelle: It was easy to have him in the fold officially, because he was someone we could always go to.

Nothing’s really changed in that regard. He knows absolutely everyone, and you can pick his brain.

Are you more stressed?

Michelle: It’s taken a lot of stress off! We were wearing many hats before, and now we can focus on design.

Carly: A lot of designers have been asking us, What’s it like? How is it? And it’s great! It’s almost like having a big brother watch over your child. We feel very lucky.

What’s the look of your Fall ’16 collection?

Carly: We’re excited to be moving to Clarkson, and we’re working with [stylist] Kate Young. The show will feel a little different.

Michelle: The sexy will definitely still be there.

Michelle, how’s married life? You’re all grown-up…

Michelle: When my husband and I first started dating, he googled me and saw that man-hunting piece we did with you. Of all the things!

Carly: When that story came out, Linda Fargo e-mailed me and wrote, “That’s the best article that you guys have ever done!”

And you’ve moved out of town?

Michelle: I live in Bayonne, New Jersey, now! I got the master bedroom as my closet. I was not leaving the city without a big closet. I’m in the city Monday through Friday, so it’s nice to have the chill weekend.

But I wouldn’t have moved to New Jersey without Uber.

Carly, how’s your personal life? Anybody special?

Carly: Yes! I’ve been with a guy for six months and we’re living together. As a friend said, “It’s going at lesbian speed!” [Laughs] Michelle: I told Carly that I’m getting a little jealous!

I feel like I missed that whole Tinder thing. I’ve never been on a dating app.

You guys still seem as close as ever.

Michelle: Taking a lot of that business stress off has made everything so much easier. We needed a man in the office.

Carly: We are very pro-woman, but sometimes you need a man.

Next time we’re going to a strip club!

Michelle: We’ll be begging for it by then!

Carly: Can’t The Daily take us on a sexy vacation? ß

CEO MOMENT With Peter Arnold

How’s the new gig?

It’s extraordinary. Carly [Cushnie] and Michelle [Ochs] are supremely talented designers, and such lovely women. They’ve worked very hard and successfully to build something that’s reached critical mass.

That combination of what they’ve achieved already and the support of an investor group, and I’d like to think my additional support, has them and the brand poised for great success.

How did the job come about?

I’ve know Gary [Wassner] for a long time. The challenge for any investor is to make sure that your investment is looked after. We understood that I had a certain skill set from being a lawyer and working at Cynthia Rowley and the CFDA that might lend itself really well to this opportunity. It was very serendipitous.

What are your plans?

Besides total world domination? They have built a very successful wholesale business. They’ve got great relationships, and now it’s time to really leverage that. We want to grow what we’ve got and build our international presence. We want to extend the assortment of what we do beyond dresses and into other categories, like shoes and bags, and our own retail one day. Sooner than that, we’ll launch e-com.

INVESTOR INTEL With Gary Wassner

Why did you feel Peter Arnold was a good match for the brand?

He has the sensibility and temperament that I felt would enhance and supplement the designers. His experience in the industry is multifaceted, and he brings so much to the table. He’s a businessman and a fashion man.

Why do you believe in this brand?

It’s authentic. This is an overused word today, but in the case of Cushnie et Ochs, it’s completely accurate.

They design clothing that makes women look and feel beautiful. The collection combines good taste and sexiness, which isn’t easy to do. They haven’t yet begun to spread their wings as designers, and I am convinced the best is yet to come.

bare minimum Cushnie et Ochs’ clean lines and body-con silhouettes, as seen in the Spring ’16 collection.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

mass appeal When Malaysian-born, Londonbased designer Han Chong ventured out on his own to found Self-Portrait, the decision proved to be a rewarding one. Thanks to that natural instinct, the brand has become a darling of the industry, Hollywood, and beyond.

BY PAIGE REDDINGER Self-Portrait is everywhere lately. Why? Retailers like Net-A-Porter definitely put us on a more international platform, but when we were picked up from American retailers like Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, that also exposed us to a wider audience. On top of this, we were very fortunate that celebrities started to connect with us and supported our young brand by wearing it on the red carpet.

Celebrities such as...?

Jennifer Lopez, who wore a tuxedo wrap dress in 2014 to a live taping of American Idol. Since then, everyone from Rachel McAdams, Reese Witherspoon, and Kerry Washington to Kristen Stewart, Beyoncé, Gigi Hadid, and Kendall Jenner have worn Self-Portrait.

Why did you decide to launch the line?

I am someone who likes to be in control of every FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

THE FEMININE MYSTIQUE Han Chong’s signature aesthetic combines intricate guipure with modern silhouettes—at a friendly price point that makes clients easily addicted.

aspect of the brand. Previously, I was at Three Floor, which I started with two other business partners.

Eventually, after working together for some time, we had our differences, and I realized I wasn’t willing to compromise on certain things behind the brand. I knew that I had to leave.

What was your vision for this label?

I wanted a brand that provides high-quality designs that are timeless and yet modern, all injected with a hint of personality. I sought to make quality designs accessible to a wider audience—the idea doesn’t seem new anymore, but it was about providing high-end designs, which are less elitist-oriented, and really making people feel like they could be a part of the brand. I was seeking to challenge perceptions of social class and democratize luxury goods. Fashion is not meant for just a privileged few.

What lessons did you learn from venturing out on your own?

I learned how important it is to stay true to your vision. Sometimes, we allow people or industry standards to get in the way of what we want or how we run the brand, but it’s important to stick to what you believe in and do whatever it takes to get you there.

How do you keep the prices so affordable?

It takes a lot of time spent traveling, sourcing for the right fabrics and other materials, and building the right relationships with people. I work closely with factories that are able to develop and produce lace with me, as well as our design team. I believe there is always a way to work around restrictions.

Why do you love working with lace?

It’s part of my heritage. I am from Malaysia, and a lot of our traditional clothing for women is made of lace. I also love that lace is available in so many forms and textures.

You began your career as a fine artist.

How did you end up in fashion?

I see art as something for a very specific audience. Fashion is on a much larger scale, and I am able to interact with people through my designs.

Who or what influenced your creativity when you were growing up?

My aunt was a local artist in Penang, and she taught me to always keep my eyes open, look at things from a different perspective, and to stay curious.

I pursued fine art partly because of her.

Which fellow artists, dead or alive, do you admire?

Francis Bacon, Louise Bourgeois, Danh Vo, and Elmgreen & Dragset.

Do you still have time to make art?

Hardly—the brand has been taking up all my time. I hope to eventually work on an art project in collaboration with Self-Portrait.

What can we expect for Fall 2016?

I am really excited about it. We’re experimenting a lot with print and different embellishments to go with lace, playing with texture and color.

Are you going to have any free time when you are here for NYFW? I hope so! I look forward to just taking a stroll down the High Line, and I definitely want to go vintage shopping in the East Village, as well as in Brooklyn. I also want to check out the museums and galleries, like MoMA, the Met, and the new Whitney Museum. ß

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secondAct

QUIET RIOT Gabriela Hearst descends from one of the oldest ranching families in Uruguay and, yes, she’s married to a Hearst. But before you make any assumptions, she launched her first label, Candela, with virtually no budget. Her buzzworthy namesake brand debuted last fall and has earned prime real estate on the third floor of Barneys New York. Isn’t it about time you learned more?

BY PAIGE REDDINGER

You started out as a model.

I was 21, which is really old to be a model! My agency in Paris told me to tell everyone I was 19. I was very grungy with spiky hair. [Laughs] I wasn’t a very good model, and I only did it for one or two years.

How did you get discovered?

I was traveling with my boyfriend at the time, and we went to a party in Buenos Aires. I looked very different from the Argentinian girls. I was wearing military pants with men’s underwear showing and a tank top. I met a woman, Paola Pravato, who worked in PR, and she introduced me to one of the best agents in Buenos Aires. I got rid of the boyfriend, but Paola ended up being the godmother to my son!

Did your modeling experience shape your views of the industry?

The best lesson I learned from modeling is how to handle rejection.

What was the first piece of clothing you ever created?

I was 6 years old. I saw Cinderella and was blown away by the scene where the little birds and the mouse make the dress for Cinderella. My grandmother had lots of handmade silk and lace gowns, and I cut them up to make a dress. My grandmother wasn’t mad—she thought it was cute.

Later, I designed clothing for my friends. When we were 15, we had our quinceañeras, but we didn’t do those big puffy white dresses. I designed cooler, shorter versions.

What were you doing before you ventured into fashion with your first company, Candela?

I went to acting school for two years at the Neighborhood Playhouse School of the Theatre. The first day, the headmaster said, “Most of you aren’t going to be actors, but you’re going to learn a few things here.” It was hugely important for me. After that, I started to work in the fashion industry as FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

an assistant to a designer named Kara Janx. Then I worked in a showroom for a bit, before launching my first label, Candela. I worked for somebody else for a year and a half max. I actually think I got fired from every job I ever had, except for a flower shop I worked in when I was 17.

“Our goal is to make an elevated product that doesn’t screaM.” Follow your own dream, right?

[Laughs] Yes, when I got fired from the showroom, I gave my boss a hug because I was so happy.

Are you still involved with Candela?

I’m not involved in the daily operations anymore, but the label still exists—I still have ownership in it. I’m putting all my energy into my namesake label.

Why did you launch Gabriela Hearst?

I really wanted to do something more high-end. I wanted to use materials, techniques, and tailoring that I wasn’t able to use before. The first day I started working on the design for the label, I also found out I was pregnant. When the label officially launched, I was six months pregnant.

Were you overwhelmed?

I was so excited because the brand had just been picked up by Barneys New York 10 days before we debuted the collection at our presentation. A huge weight came off my shoulders. When I developed the brand, I really didn’t want it to be something where people said, “Let’s see how it evolves.” I made

sure the whole collection was really thought-out.

Barneys New York placed you between Chloé and Céline—that’s quite a feat.

I couldn’t believe it was happening. I went with my entire family and took pictures. On the other hand, I really thought that that’s where we would sit. Our goal is to make an elevated product that doesn’t scream.

Do you have any international distribution?

Miroslava Duma brought us to Russia recently, and now we are in Aizel [boutique]. Mira is really the type of woman I admire. She travels with her kids, and she works her butt off. It makes me think, “If she can do it, I can do it.” My newborn has already been to L.A., Paris, London, Moscow, and Uruguay.

Which women have you loved seeing in your clothes?

Gwen Jorgensen. She’s a triathlete who will represent the United States at the Olympics in Rio de Janeiro this summer. It was a dream to dress her. I’m very interested in women with passion, and athletes are always passionate.

What kind of women love your clothes?

Women who want to feel beautiful, comfortable, and powerful. I’m trying to make certain uniforms for women, so they can spend less time thinking about what to wear. I want women to have things that fit well and last forever.

What is your inspiration for Fall?

I was looking at work by Sonia Delaunay, and I was inclined to work with circles and dots. We did some beadings and trims that say Love in Morse ode. It also ties into the idea of land and sea that I was working on.

How does your heritage play into your designs?

It’s reflected all the time, but not in an obvious way.

I grew up in a place where there is nothing besides the ranch and land, which, of course, changes your perception. ß

tom hines (1); courtesy

Gabriela hearst Spring/Summer 2016 By combining unusual materials with updated takes on classic shapes, Hearst caters to women who want to look both elegant and understated.

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2/4/16 2:05 PM

dailyAdieu

FIELD OF DREAMS After an astounding 50 years in business, Patricia Field is shutting down her Bowery location. Why did the retailer-turnedcostume designer decide to pull the plug? Cigarettes in hand as she holds court in the store’s basement, the legendary New Yorker muses on what’s next.

By EDDIE ROCHE Photography by GIORGIO NIRO How does it feel to be closing?

It’s bittersweet and liberating. The thing I’ll miss most is the creative dynamics of not only the people I work with, but my clients and the one-to-one conversations with them. I needed to open up my time, and my shop was taking up more and more of it. I’ve been open for 50 years, so I thought it was okay to walk away. It’s all good.

Was there a particular reason?

I’ve done it long enough. Life is not forever. I’ve had to turn down many nice things because I couldn’t handle them. I want to be in the position to keep working, but work less and open up time for my social and personal life. It got to be something I started to feel was oppressive, even though I love my store and everybody who comes in. I do believe that when I FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

close my store, I’ll lose that person-to-person contact.

When you do a movie, you’re one level removed from realness. The store was 24/7. It never ends. I’ve done it. I don’t need to do it anymore. I did it. Am I standing here to put my name on a store? I’m respected. I need to switch gears.

Were sales hurting?

They were doing very well. I did have a period in 2014 where I had a slump in business, and it required me to take charge once again. But 2015 was a great year.

You have to love anything you do. You can’t just do it because it’s a job. You have to be excellent at what you do, or you’re just average.

Any famous alumni who got their start at your store?

Paolo Nieddu, a costume designer on Empire, the hairstylist Corvette Hunt, Amanda Lepore, Andre

Walker, makeup artist Kabuki, Jody Morlock. There have been many.

What has the store meant to New York City?

I’m not New York City—I know what the store means to me—but people say they come here to feel good and there’s no store like it in the world. There have been a lot of well wishes.

You’ve had many locations before arriving here in 2000. What do you think of the Bowery now?

The Bowery is a historical district. It used to be Times Square. All the theaters were here, and the clubs and the bars. As it’s such an old area; it still retains some of the physical aspects of older areas, like the broad streets. It’s a major place for development. Little by little, it’s becoming exclusive. There’s the old Bowery of CBGB, and there’s the Ian Schrager thing on Bond

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Street. Bond Street has become…I don’t know what.

It’s fun to watch. I was invested in the Bowery when I bought this place. It’s a struggle between the old and the new, but the new is going to win, because the new has the money.

Thoughts on New York these days? People love to bitch.

I don’t like to bitch too much about it. The only thing I bitch about is some of the politics that go on and the result of that. Progress is liquid. If you don’t build and improve, you get left behind. If you travel the world, it’s like a contest of who can build the cities the fastest. I love Europe, but it’s kind of like a museum. If all the world around you is building 50-story buildings…I can’t bitch about it. You can’t stop progress.

Any crazy shoplifting moments?

They tell a story of when I was on Eighth Street and I had this antique rifle in the store. A crowd of kids came in and were acting up, and I said, “Get out of here or I’m going to shoot you!” They left. You have to have some balls in life.

Where did you get your balls from?

Maybe I was a hermaphrodite. [Laughs] I’ve never thought of myself as a man or a woman, ever. I never got behind the women’s movement, I never responded to the misogynists. I didn’t sit on any of those things. It wasn’t part of me.

Were your parents like that?

My mom was a very independent woman who was ahead of her time. She had a mind of her own. There were 10 children in her family, and my grandparents came here from Greece. They took the boys and my mother, and then they sent for the rest of the girls.

What did your parents do?

My dad was a tailor, and as a kid, my mom started working at a laundry, which is where they met. My dad died when I was about 8, but my parents ended up owning a dry-cleaning business. I came from a solid middle-class upbringing. We weren’t the Trumps, but we were okay.

Did growing up around a dry-cleaning business have anything to do with your love of clothes?

Maybe. It affected my knowledge. My mom taught me about silk, and would tell me if a stain was oilbased, because you can’t put water to oil. I don’t know why she wanted to tell me all these things, but I listened. I can touch a fabric and know exactly what it is.

Are you still going to be working on television and film projects?

I’d like to. Right now I’m working on a TV show, Younger, on TV Land. We just finished our second season. They want a third season, so we’re going back.

It’s here and easy. I don’t have to relocate myself.

Do you have a favorite project?

The success of Sex and the City affected my career, and that’s No. 1 from that point of view. I loved working on The Devil Wears Prada. The director, David Frankel, trusted me. I didn’t have to justify everything. I got that job by default, because Meryl Streep wanted Ann Roth, and whatever Meryl wants, Meryl gets. That’s not a slur on her by any means— she taught me a lot, and I really like her. Ann’s budget was too high and it was going to take her too long to prepare, and they just didn’t have the money. They wanted it prepped in eight weeks, and she wanted something like six months.

And you got an Oscar nomination for it!

I didn’t win it, but I totally respected the designer, Milena Canonero, who won.

“I’ve never thought of myself as a man or a woman, Ever. I never got behind the women’s movement, I never responded to the misogynists. I didn’t sit on any of those things.

It wasn’t part of me.”

Years ago, you were one of the few who supported John Galliano when he was fired from Dior. Was there any backlash?

A little. Some people said that they didn’t know that Patricia Field was a “Jew hater.” At the end of the day, I’m happy that I supported John. I woke up some people in the fashion industry who should have spoken up. I don’t know what happened with John.

Maybe he did a drug, had a problem, had some stress.

I don’t know what he did. The point is the fashion world benefited greatly from John’s talent. Dior was dead, and John brought it back. For me, it was an ambush. They could have helped him. Then there’s the actress.

Natalie Portman?

Yes! They were friends! [Long pause] He’s returned!

He’s very talented. I know him personally, and he’s not an evil person. He’s a sweet person. Whatever crazy thing that might have happened... It was the moment, and he couldn’t deal with it. There were words. How many times do people do crazy things? So I spoke out because I was appalled. He saved that house.

Have you always been fearless?

I wouldn’t consider myself fearless, because I don’t operate out of fear. I do have my opinions and my thoughts, and one of my main things is truthfulness.

If I’m asked, I give my opinion.

Do you get photographed on the street?

I’m a human being, I’m not a poster, and people, out of good intentions, want pictures or selfies. It’s stopped me from going out. It erases any possibility of me having a normal life.

What else do you have up your sleeve?

In the past year, we’ve had a very positive reaction to art fashion. We sell an insane amount of [artist/ designer] Scooter LaForge. I have an idea to develop an art and fashion entity. There’s a handful of artists who I’d like to represent online in art and fashion. It hasn’t been done.

What will you do with your time now?

I have another social life in Athens, Greece. I have very good friends there. I like it there because of my heritage, but mostly, because of my friends. Normally, I would go two or three times a year. I also have a beautiful apartment in South Beach, Miami, where I haven’t been unless it’s for business. Those two destinations are at the top of my list. I have friends who want me to go to Italy. I’ve turned down invites to Capri. I need to open up some time in my life for all of the rewards that have come my way. At the end of the day, the only thing I want to do is go home and go to bed. That is not a life! ß

field notes Pat with Mia Moretti at a Coachella private pool party; the stars of Sex and the City; Meryl Streep as Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

hauteMod

RING THAT

Emilio pucci Spring 2016

BELL FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

BY EDDIE ROCHE

firstview; imaxtree

L

Busy and buzzy Society mod Ruth Bell was a breakout star at the Spring 2016 shows. We rang her up to find out how this humble Brit is dealing with being the belle of the ball.

Where do you live?

I still live with my parents in England.

How’s that going?

It’s cheap!

Do you have a curfew?

Nah. Usually, they don’t know what country I’m in. I just turn up and then leave. I think of it like renting a room in the house.

You were a breakout star last season. How did you react to all the love?

I don’t tend to read my own press. My parents do, and then they’ll bring me back down to earth. It’s kind of crazy.

How so?

Because I’m a normal person. I don’t think of Adriana Lima as a real person. If I saw her in real life, I’d think of her as someone famous, because no one that perfect exists. Not like I’m perfect!

You told Elle you hated your first name.

My mum yelled at me when she read that.

How do you feel about Bell?

I get a lot of jokes about it, but I kind of like it. It’s easy to remember. My mum used to say, “You may not like your name, but it’s memorable.”

Your buzz cut has received a lot of buzz. Sick of that yet?

No, I love it.

Why? It’s like when someone gets a puppy and then everyone wants to touch it. You don’t get sick of showing off your puppy. I’ve got a cool haircut.

How often do you get it buzzed?

I do it myself every two weeks, unless someone tells me otherwise.

What was it like to shoot the Saint Laurent campaign?

It was kind of crazy. Even before I did the campaign, it was my favorite brand. We shot in L.A., and it was one of the first times I’d been there, so that was cool. Now I get to wear the clothes to parties. Hedi [Slimane] is insane. I literally can’t explain it. You have to be in a room with him and work with him to understand it. He’s one of those photographers who knows exactly what he wants, and he knows exactly when he’s got it. For example, when we were taking the photographs, he would take a photograph, look at the screen and be like,“That’s it, done, move on.”

It’s weird, because I’m not creative at all, so to be in a room with him is mind-boggling.

If you’re not creative, what are you?

I’m logical. I couldn’t be a photographer or a stylist because I don’t have the right mind-set for it. My mum calls it “life smart.” She said, “Ruth, you could never paint a picture, but you could cook, you could get from one place to another, and if you were lost, you would find some way of getting back.”

We understand some people think you look like a boy.

I flew to New York recently and security called me a man. And then just at the end as I was leaving I said, “I’m a woman.” And he said, “Oh, I’m really sorry!” But you know what? Really, I don’t blame

kenzo Spring 2016

them, because I don’t make it easy for them. I’ve got buzzed hair. I also dress in boyish clothes and I carry myself very masculine. If I saw me, and I wasn’t me, I would think that I was a guy, especially from behind. It doesn’t really bother me. I just feel bad for them because I embarrass them.

Any plans to move to New York?

I don’t know. That’s a difficult question. I think as long as I’m doing this job, it’ll always be 50/50 between New York and London. I couldn’t have just one place in London or one place in New York. I like them both.

What do you miss about each city when you’re in the other?

When I’m in London, I miss New York food, which is probably a good thing because if lived in New York, I’d probably be twice my size because of the pizza.

When I’m in New York, I miss the vibe of London. I just come to New York to work. When I’m in London, I don’t know how to explain it, but the vibe is younger and more my kind of thing.

What’s your long-term plan?

I have no idea. Whatever happens will be a nice surprise. I’m not too worried. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

TOO

SEXY

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

l u e u r p h o t o g r a p h y ; s t e v e n g a b r i e l p h o t o g r a p h y ( 2 ) ; m i c h a e l c r a f t/ t w i s t e d i m a g e s ( 2 ) ; l a u r e n t g u i n c i ; a l e x m a r s h a l l p h o t o ; d u c n g u y e n p h o t o g r a p h y ( 3 )

insta Hit

...For His Shirt

Of your DAILY’s many Instagram obsessions, none has captured our attention quite like the feed of Paul Margolin. The oft-shirtless president of Marc Bouwer explains why he’s willing to bare (almost) all.

BY EDDIE ROCHE Let’s be professional. How long have you been at Marc Bouwer?

Since 1990. Marc and I met through friends at a party. We used to be boyfriends, and I helped him with the business. He did Whitney Houston’s wedding dress, and I was modeling at the time but tried to get PR for the dress. It was more challenging than I thought.

What was your modeling career like?

It was short-lived—I only did it until I was 22. I didn’t do the European thing. Only in America. I was with Ford for a bit. When I saw the potential growth of Marc’s business, I saw the opportunity and left modeling behind.

Were you doing shirtless shoots back then?

Not many. I’m more comfortable with my body now than I was at that time. It comes with maturity!

Who took all the pro photos on your IG feed?

I’ve been thinking about getting into modeling again, so I’m putting a book together with shots from different photographers. I looked at pictures of myself after I stopped modeling, and I didn’t like them. I always knew how to find the angle in the camera, but I lost it a little. I decided to work with photographers again and got some really nice results. I feel like I’ve gotten better and stronger.

Being on Instagram has already started getting me certain offers. Certain brands have offered to send me things—clothes, jewelry…

Are you vain?

There’s some vanity involved with being in shape.

Wellness is a big part of it—it’s about a good and healthy mental state, too, which changes when my physical state is stronger. People like to be looked at and be seen. I feel good about the way I look. I like the way my clothes look on me now. I was a little pudgy when I was growing up. They started calling me “butterball” and “the Ring Ding kid,” but I always dressed well.

How did you start getting in shape?

I did push-ups. In 1983, there weren’t that many gyms around, because they weren’t as popular. I went to a Nautilus in Yonkers, and my mother bought me a machine. By my mid-twenties, I started feeling great about my body. There was a period where I was less concerned, but now, social media is a big motivator. I wasn’t always able to show my peak fitness. How many TBTs can I do to show what I looked like at one time? I don’t have to count on Throwback Thursday now. I’ll post old pictures every couple of months, but they don’t get as many likes as current pictures do.

How does that make you feel?

I like that people like what they see now.

Can you thank Instagram for your body?

It has been a motivator, for sure. When you’re over 40, you don’t go out as much as you once did.

There was a period when I became less social, so it wasn’t as important to me. Not that I have to be on Instagram to be seen. I just feel like you see a lot

more from everybody else. You think, I’d like to be fit and get those results. I forgot, for a period, how much I liked it. I also stopped drinking for a bit, which helped.

What’s your routine at the gym?

I go only once a day. Twice would be overkill for me.

I don’t like to overwhelm myself. For example, salad can overwhelm me if there’s too much green. There’s something so green about salad. I like a routine, and I go every day. Even though people say you should have resting days, I’d rather go to the gym. But I don’t feel the need to do it if I’m on vacation.

Would modeling conflict with your day job?

I think it would be fine. I see a lot of people leading multifaceted lives. I’ve been working with Marc for a long time. We talked about it. He said I’ve created an energy by doing it. It's another way for me to be creative. Modeling is a goal right now.

You’re going to turn 50 this year. How do you feel?

A lot of times, I feel like Sally O’Malley from Saturday Night Live and say, “I’m gonna be 50!” There’s something funny about it, because I don’t feel 50.

A lot of New Yorkers feel that way. Social media has connected us to a broader audience. If I was in my twenties, I would never want to go out with anybody over 40. Now, people react differently.

What kind of comments are left on your feed?

I get “zaddy” a lot. [Ed note: That’s slang for a really “handsome” guy who looks really fashionable, according to Urban Dictionary.] Sometimes, I have to look the words up. You can be young and be a zaddy, too. If you believe that stuff, you can believe the bad stuff. I don’t want to get too hyped about it, but I don’t get a lot of negative comments. The people who follow me seem to like what I’m doing. I try to keep it fun and show my body and what I’m wearing.

Every once in a while, I’ll throw in a selfie in the bathroom. It gets a different response. People also have a big thing for body hair, and say things like, “I

“There’s nothing like crisp sheets and a great pose.”

“There’s something so green about salad.” smoldering. Is that too egotistical? I like a sexy look.

What makes a sexy photo?

Style it a bit, although it doesn’t have to be overstyled. Hints of things are sexy. Photos in bed are sexy, perhaps because I love sleeping so much.

There’s nothing like crisp sheets and a great pose.

This isn’t sexy, but if I’m home and taking a picture by myself, I always make sure there’s no Windex on the counter in the background.

Have you showed your tail?

I’ve let other people who have shot me show it. I haven’t shown it on my own. The pictures are nice.

I just haven’t wanted to put the butt on my page. I might at one point.

You don’t want people to think you’re an old adult film star.

Exactly. One of my friends said, “You’ve got one foot in!”

Would you ever consider that field?

I wouldn’t. That doesn’t interest me.

Who do you find sexy on Instagram?

Candice Swanepoel, Mr. [Eric] Rutherford, Khloé Kardashian. Laverne Cox, who we work with all the time, will put some sexy bathing suit shots up. Her Allure shoot inspired me to have my butt in a picture.

Do you get stopped on the street?

Sometimes!

Did you want to be famous growing up?

Doesn’t everybody want a little fame?

What makes a good Instagram account?

People want to get to know somebody and become familiar with them. Group shots don’t do well. People like a close-up. Click! ß

prefer the hair!” Either like it or don’t, but don’t clog up my comment feed.

What does your family think of this?

My dad is really impressed. He can’t believe how good I look. He’s 76!

Do you have a signature pose?

A little smize. People say things about my lips. I have big lips, but I can prove that I’ve had them since I was little. I like to look directly into the camera. I’m trying to learn different poses, but my signature would be FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

fashionIntel Don’t be too headstrong—and never say never. “When I started I would

chic lessons

Nicole Miller opened her first store three decades ago and now has 20 boutiques across the country. The doyenne of American fashion and NYFW veteran is an authority on success and survival…

BY NATASHA SILVA-JELLY

always say, I would never do this and that, I would never put a ruffle on a dress. But the way people dress changes, and you should, too.”

Beware the celebrity designer.

“It’s a very weird time—many good designers are stuck in the backroom working behind a celebrity label. The public seems to want the celebrity, not the designer, especially in America. My advice to young designers is to have a clear goal, go for what you want, and don’t get stuck in a rut.”

Always aim for reinvention.

“People dress more casually today. I’m a guilty party, sitting here in my ice-skating clothes. We now dress women for every aspect of their life—casual occasions, cocktail parties—and we make great jeans and separates.”

Embrace technology. “I love innovation, especially technological. I am always looking for cutting-edge fabrics and new materials. I studied at the haute couture school in Paris [French Federation of Fashion and Ready-to-Wear Couturiers and Fashion Designers], so I have a technical background. We do all our patterns and draping in-house, a skill I feel is being lost. These days, a lot of designs are being sent as a tech pack to Asia—you’re at the mercy of their patternmakers.”

Runway shows should be magical. “My first one was for the Fall 1991 season, and we had Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Yasmin Le Bon, and Gail Elliott on the runway. The show was at Laura Belle, and was very ’60s mod, with lots of color blocking.

We showed 58 pieces, and when it was over I was like, We have to do another one. Some shows today are too long—some have 80 or 100 looks. I’m already snoring at 36.”

Trust your instincts, and don’t be railroaded. “I’ve done 50 shows over 25 years, which is crazy. Every show is different and sometimes you look back and think, I love, love, love. Others, you say, What the hell was I thinking?

We always work with stylists—some are great, and everything falls into place, and sometimes, you have to put your foot down.”

relationship—things start out wonderfully, and then sometimes, they dip. You need to keep things interesting for customers—do events, make sure your windows are very creative, ensure that your staff is happy and engaged. Fun experiences can now be created online, too. I’m reasonably tech savvy, but social media has created so much extra work—we now have someone doing Instagram and Pinterest full-time.”

Inspiration is everything.

ON THE RUNWAY Left: The original supermodels showcase Miller’s Fall 1991 season. Right: Looks from the current SS16 collection.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

“I am inspired and invigorated by my staff. For my collections, I am often inspired by ancient cultures and strong warrior-like female characters. My customer is a good girl with a bit of a bad girl edge to her. For fall, we’ve gone with a Nordic idea—I wanted everything to be snowy and icy. Maybe it’s the lack of winter around!” ß

firstview (3); getty images (1); courtesy

All retail goes through a three-year slumP. “It’s like in a romantic

Photograph ©Eugenio Recuenco Photograph ©Eugenio Recuenco

Tuesday–Friday, Noon–8 pm Saturday, 10 am–5 pm Closed Sunday, Monday, and legal holidays Admission is free. fitnyc.edu/museum Fairy Tale Fashion is supported by the

with additional support from

Seventh Avenue at 27th Street, New York City

January 15–April 16, 2016 #FairyTaleFashion

Fairy Tale Fashion is made possible by the New York State Council on the Arts with the support of Governor Andrew Cuomo and the New York State Legislature.

RETAIL Report

RODARTE HUNTING, REVISITED 0 ,25 7 1 $

Once every five years, I utterly lose my mind and convince myself that it’s time to throw down for some Rodarte. After all, I totally Marie Kondo’ed my closet and have zilch to wear. And given that I’ve been shopping mostly at Gap since late 2012 (#2babiesin2years), and I’m finally able to cram into a size 8 (thank you, Tracy Anderson), don’t I deserve a little “me” moment?

Now, it’s time to see whether the dresses I’ve been dreaming about actually made it into production. To the iPhone!

By ASHLEY BAKER

980 , 9 $

RING, RING! Hey, Opening Ceremony. I see you carry Rodarte’s T-shirts and sweatshirts online, but do you have looks 4 or 33 from Spring 2016?

We don’t have either of these pieces. We have the Cinderella collection or the beaded flapper collection.

We have a yellow beaded jumpsuit and a blue beaded gown…it’s Fall 2014.

Are they on sale?

No. Our Rodarte does not go on sale.

Oh. So do you think you’re getting any Spring ’16?

We might. We always get a couple of pieces. We’re just not sure yet.

Okay...on to Gmail, where I fire off missives to NetA-Porter, Ikram, Capitol in Charlotte, Bergdorf Goodman, and Moda Operandi inquiring about the availability of my dresses in a size 8, or even 6.

What’s wrong with optimism?

“Our Rodarte does not go on sale.”

NET-A-PORTER Dear Ashley, Thank you for contacting NET-A-PORTER.COM. Currently we do not carry items from the designer Rodarte, nor are we able to confirm with any certainty that we will once again in the future. We apologize for any inconvenience. For additional assistance, please contact us on the details below.

IKRAM Hi Ashley, The attached dress [a similar style to the short one I favored] is $9,890. We can always look into specialordering the styles you’re interested in if possible.

How that works is that we would charge a deposit for the full amount of the piece in advance before we can place the order with the designer. Once it’s ordered, the piece would be a final sale, so we would need to ensure the sizing is correct. Please let us know how you wish to proceed. Thank you!

“COULD IT BE THAT RODARTE DOESN’t even bother to produce in a size 8?”

CAPITOL Hi Ashley, We placed an order for the short dress in a size 4 and it retails for $9,980. Would you like someone to contact you when this dress arrives?

BERGDORF GOODMAN Hi Ashley, Thank you for your patience. I needed to get the look books for our buy from my buyer. I am getting the first look you sent, the white and gold beaded with lace, in a 4 and a 6. The second I am not getting, but if you are having trouble tracking it down, I can certainly look into getting it for you. At that point it would be a special order and, therefore, a final sale. But if you need it, that’s certainly an option.

As for the one coming in, what size do you need?

In order to reserve it for you, I do need to put in a preorder with your credit card and address. You will not be charged until the dress is actually delivered to the store, of course. The dress retails for $9,890.

Spring collections should start shipping at the end of February. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

MODA OPERANDI

C

USTO Dear Ashley, SERV MER AWARICE Thank you for shopping with D! Moda Operandi. We can confirm that we will not receive the Rodarte items in our Boutique as these were a part of our Rodarte Spring Summer 2016 Trunk Show. We would be more than happy to ask the brand if they are willing to accommodate a late-order request should you be very interested in purchasing the items. Please advise how you wish to proceed.

I asked for pricing…

Below are the links and price points for the following items: Mon dieu! The long dress is $17,250. Pretty sure that’s what I spent on annual tuition at Wellesley (room and board excluded). Conclusion: A 6 is a little too optimistic, even though I do plan to spend the better part of 2016 chez Tracy. Could it be that Rodarte doesn’t even bother to produce in a size 8?

Also: Unless I plan to release a hit single in the near future, there’s no way that I can afford these gowns. Here’s hoping they go on sale...although judging by the situation at Opening Ceremony, it’s unlikely. ß

,

A RODARTE GOWN, OR… A 2016 Ford Focus, from $17,225!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Liposuction from Lloyd B. Gayle, MD, around $11,900!

Moda Operandi’s entire spring buy of Laurence Dacade, $10,235!

Spending fashion season in hiding at Amangani, $19,824!

firstview (2); shutterstock; courtesy

JANUARY 6, 11:05 a.m.

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THE DAILY CELEBRATES

YEARS OF CBS courtesy

WATCH!

MAGAZINE

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK MANN

WATCH AND LEARN the watch! STAFF From left: Jennifer Goddard, Simon Cramer, Joe Wilson, Mona Buehler, Michael Rizzi, Natalia Rybka, Jeremy Murphy, Rebecca Ascher-Walsh, Meagan McLaughlin, and Christopher Ross.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

VISION QUEST Julianna Margulies, star of The Good Wife, traveled to Hôtel du Cap for a shoot with Patrick Demarchelier.

by jeremy murphy, editor in chief

I

“

t’s just like a Vogue shoot.”

We'd just photographed the Emmywinning star of The Good Wife, Juliana Margulies for Watch! magazine, and she was comparing us to the Bible. For a day we hired Patrick Demarchelier to shoot her around the fabled Hôtel du Cap-EdenRoc in the South of France, and seeing one of the world’s most beautiful women being shot by the world’s top photographer in the most picturesque setting was what Oprah may have called an “aha!” moment. The icing on the cake was the comparison to Vogue, which I had read since childhood.

It seemed surreal for a publication that was created on a shoestring budget in 2006 to find ourselves in such a circumstance. Because as we celebrate our 10-year anniversary, I’m reminded of a much different time when launching a print magazine was counterintuitive. I remember the summer before, when my bosses and I began planning the launch, and realizing the enormity of what we faced. Thanks to them, we were fortunate to have a direct pipeline to the top, and they both made sure we had an unimpeded runway to get this off the ground.

Launching and editing the magazine provided a

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

much-needed outlet for that time in my life, too: I was shuttling back and forth between CBS’s famous Black Rock building on Sixth Avenue, the Viacom headquarters in Times Square, and Memorial Sloan Kettering, where my father lay dying of lung cancer.

He lost his life that summer, but I always felt Watch! magazine renewed mine.

As the summer gave way to fall and winter, ad pages would trickle in, but not the glamorous fashion spreads I expected. Instead, there were the triedand-true brands that were willing to take a chance on a new and different magazine. I remember the euphoria when we got our first—Staples! Then Taco Bell! And let’s give it up for GlaxoSmithKline, which bought a spread. To this day I still have affection for those brands (not so much an appetite for tacos, though).

Putting out our first issue was a miracle, and one of which I'm incredibly proud…even if Charlie Sheen from Two and a Half Men was on the cover.

Winning? I thought so. Vanity Fair it was not, but I couldn't have been happier to hold that first issue in my hands. And then came a feeling of dread: I have to do this again?

Thankfully I had by my side our publisher Michael Rizzi, a humble, hard-working salesman with the work ethic of a saint and a spot-on impression of Christopher Walken, which can disarm even the most skeptical of advertisers.

The truth is, I signed him over Stoli Dolis at the Capital Grille on 42nd Street when he agreed to leave a solid job at Entertainment Weekly to join this start-up.

As contributors like Demarchelier, Kate Betts, Michael Musto, and Hudson Morgan joined our ranks, so too did Mercedes-Benz, Rolls-Royce, Van Cleef & Arpels, YSL, Dior, Ferragamo, and many more—as did those brands that supported us in the beginning.

I will never forget their loyalty, and will always find a place for them in the pages, no matter what luxury brands open each issue. The truth is, every page in those salad days was a hard-fought victory. As I’d explain the editorial, Michael would sell the brand environment. I remember we made two impromptu trips abroad and shuttled among clients, buying agencies, and brand reps (and maybe a stop or three at the Hemingway). That was another “pinch me” moment, for it was just a few years before that

“IT SEemed surreal for a publication that was created on a shoestring budget in 2006 to find ourselves in such a circumstance.”

c o u rt e s y

The team behind CBS WATCH! rethinks the process of magazine publishing—with stellar results.

A picture speaks a thousand words.

This only needs one:

Fantastique!

Congratulations, CBS Watch!, on your

10 year anniversary.

It has been a pleasure working with you through the years.

Patrick Demarchelier

intel FROM the TEAM “It’s constantly changing and improving, and offers a diversity of content, from our photo shoots to our coverage of culture, celebrity, fashion and beauty, travel, and wellness.

There’s something for everyone.”

—meagan mclaughlin, Creative Director

MAGIC MOMENTS Clockwise from top: Julianna Margulies mid-stride at the famous entrance to Hôtel du Cap; Margulies’ exquisite cover; Neil Patrick Harris preparing to board the Orient Express.

“ We always describe it as Vanity Fair through the eyes of CBS talent.”

we had been stuffing gift bags in the rain outside the CBS Upfront.

Finally we were making headway, and the photo shoots became more sensational. Neil Patrick Harris (How I Met Your Mother) aboard the Orient Express! Cote de Pablo (NCIS) walking French poodles on Avenue Montaigne outside the Hôtel Plaza Athénée! Simon Baker (The Mentalist) on Bondi Beach in Sydney wearing a Louis Vuitton tuxedo and carrying a surfboard! Beth Behrs (2 Broke Girls) posing in a rainstorm of flower petals at the Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris, with the hotel’s artistic director Jeff Leatham on the side throwing the petals. To this day, those photos remain timeless. At least to me. There’s a story behind every image, and thankfully most are wistful. The others have been blocked by a steady dose of Xanax and Macallan.

I knew we’d made it when the president of Le Bristol, a five-star hotel in Paris, took us to dinner and showed an FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

image from our magazine—the aforementioned Cote de Pablo walking the poodles—and said he wanted the same image for his hotel. I don’t kid myself, though: We still have a long way to go in achieving more brand awareness. But those who do know about us are always pleasantly surprised at how polished, sophisticated, and elegant it’s become.

Issue by issue, the word has spread.

Anniversaries are always a mixed bag. The good?

Ten years of great memories: traveling around the world photographing CBS stars, the colleagues who’ve become lifelong friends, and the anecdotes from our many shoots (like an ill-fated game of laser tag in the hallway of a fivestar hotel) . The bad? Well, there’s not much to complain about except for the anxiety of improving upon what we’ve already built.

Because when you’re shooting your biggest star with Patrick in Cap d’Antibes, you’ve got a lot to live up to. ß

“Nonstop deadlines rarely allow moments of reflection, but whenever I see us on newsstands, I’m overwhelmed with pride. It was surreal to see our name in print when we broke the story that The Big Bang Theory’s Kaley Cuoco and Johnny Galecki had secretly dated for two years.”

—Jennifer GoDdard, Managing Editor

c o u rt e s y

—CHRISTOPHER ROSS, Director of Photography

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1/8/16 4:18 PM

Rizzi Dazzle

Michael Rizzi, WATCH!’s publisher, is one of the longest-tenured members of the magazine’s team. In his office at CBS headquarters, he explained the title’s unique positioning and its value to luxury advertisers.

Photography by Ryan Liu

Are you a pop culture junkie?

I’ve always loved entertainment and magazines.

I read everything. I always wanted to get into the entertainment business. One of my first sales jobs was at Parade magazine. At the time, the circulation was about 30 million a week. Later, I ended up at Entertainment Weekly. I am fortunate to work very closely with the CBS Network Television sales team.

This is where all the action happens. Most of the commercials you see on our network are sold right over here. We’re just a little magazine inside this world of television.

Is there synergy between you and your colleagues who sell television ads?

I work with the best network sales team in the business! When I become aware of a deal I always try FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

to incorporate the brand into the magazine as well. That doesn’t work all the time, but when it does, it’s fantastic.

You and Jeremy [Murphy] have worked together for 10 years.

I’ve been here from the second issue on. I won’t say it was a cakewalk at first. I got here with a half-working computer and a sketch pad—I thought we were going to have to draw the magazine versus having someone do it for us professionally, but it did work out.

You’ve landed a lot of luxury advertisers.

Fragrance has been a starting point for us. The first one we had was Midnight in Paris by Van Cleef & Arpels; it was huge. Although, most of our advancements happen in baby steps.

What’s your position on native advertising?

I love it. It’s a revenue generator, plain and simple. At the

end of the day, there’s good and bad integration, but I love to try and weave it into the editorial mix. Jeremy has been really good with this. I want it to be tasteful.

What worries you?

With advertising, there’s always new blood coming in [on the client side]. It’s not a given that I’m going to get the ad again. That’s the one thing that keeps me up at night—worrying that potential advertisers will go in a different direction. I’m always trying to be conscious and aware of where that conversation is going. I enjoy the face-to-face interaction more than the e-mail option. I have a ton of fun doing that, although I don’t have the capacity for all the alcohol anymore.

How do you secure meetings?

Calling earlier in the day often works, and a lot of it is the way you craft your e-mail. For higher-level advertisers, you have to plan something so far ahead, because their schedule is so busy. In the ’90s, we did a lot of mailings. One of the funniest I’ve seen was truly corny—we sent over a tin of nuts to a client with a note that read, “We’re going nuts trying to get you!

Will you call us?”

That’s funny!

Once, I was with my manager on a sales call, and he hated my tie. He said, “Let’s cut off your tie in front of an advertiser if they don’t give us the business.” He actually brought a pair of scissors and did it! But any time I called after that, we got a meeting.

What’s been the best part of your time at Watch!?

Working with so many talented and incredible people here at CBS and having exposure to so many different areas of the magazine, as well as the television sales process. I don’t wear just one hat here. I sit in the editorial meetings to find out what the writers are talking about. I call it sales espionage, but I need to be armed with that knowledge, so I can inform my advertisers. I love being part of the sales team, too. It’s not as glamorous as the editorial side, but here, you’re working with the brands that millions of people are going to see. That is just as important—that pays the bills so we can actually do things. The sales team brings in the money, and the editorial team spends the money—and then some. They always keep me on my toes.

Final thoughts?

I’m grateful for our advertisers. They keep us afloat.

I’m grateful to be here. Jeremy and I are like sharks— we could do this eight days a week if we had to. I’m exhausted but never bored. ß

LEGEND ALERT!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Patrick Demarchelier reminisces about his work with WATCH!

RAISING THE BAR Demarchelier and stylist Angelique O’Neil channeled Babe Paley for a 2011 shoot with NCIS’ Pauley Perrette at the St. Regis New York, where Paley once lived.

PATRICK’S FAN CLUB

JULIANNA MARGULIES

“I have had the luxury of working with Patrick many times over the years. He was the first photographer to ever take my picture when I was a waitress—we did a piece for Interview magazine. The beauty of working with Patrick is that I can trust him completely; there is never any doubt that every picture he takes will be exactly what we set out to do. He is so fast and makes me feel so at ease. It never feels like work with Patrick. His confidence gives me confidence, and that’s the best-case scenario for any photo shoot. I feel very lucky that I have gotten to work with him as much as I have, and hopefully will continue to do so for many years to come. He is truly one of the all-time greats!”

“ Patrick has a gifted touch that makes any photo he takes the best one. He makes it very hard to pick only one when they ’re all so beautiful.”

getty images (4)

—jennifer goddard, Managing Editor

When was your first shoot with Watch!?

We shot Kaley Cuoco, the star of The Big Bang Theory. Très jolie.

Why did you decide to shoot for Watch!?

They came to my studio and showed me the concept, and we decided to work together. They are very collaborative.

Were you familiar with the magazine?

Not until then, no.

Does Watch! give you a lot of freedom? If yes, how so?

They are fantastic, full of energy and creativity.

Who and where have you shot for them over the years?

New York, Paris, and this past summer, Cap d'Antibes.

What was the most challenging shoot?

It's no challenge at all. It’s a joy from start to finish.

Are there any shoots that stand out to you?

They have all been fantastic, but shooting in France is always special.

DONNIE WAHLBERG

“I never felt safer, more at ease, or more self-confident in front of a camera than I did with Patrick behind it.”

KALEY CUOCO

What’s the difference between shooting models and actors?

Once someone is comfortable in front of the lens, there is not much of a difference. Everyone wants to feel beautiful.

Who do you work with closely on the Watch! team?

I enjoy working with Jeremy, Meagan, Chris, and the Watch! team. They always have interesting ideas and add to the creative process.

Were you surprised that fashion was such a big part of an entertainment magazine?

They are doing something that is very unique—bringing high fashion and glamour to an entertainment magazine.

How long do the shoots typically last?

A day, tops. We are very fast.

What are your anniversary wishes for Watch!?

Ten more years of publishing success. ß

“Working with Patrick is the closest thing to heaven. Not only is he a perfect gentleman, but he’s pure genius at what he does.”

PAULEY PERRETTE

“Being photographed by Patrick is a oncein-a-lifetime experience. I’ll never forget that day, because the experience was so much fun and the photos are timeless.”

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

menswear

maverick

When it comes to dressing CBS’s top talent, stylist Christopher Campbell is WATCH!’s go-to guy. THE DAILY visited his Tribeca studio to talk divas, Details, and Naomi.

By eddie roche Photography by giorGIo niro How did you first meet the Watch! team?

I was on an appointment doing a pull for a shoot at Ferragamo, and [PR director] Trisha Gregory, who was working on a story with them at the time, asked if I’d be interested in doing it as well, and I was. I was in Iceland for a different shoot, and they flew me to Toronto. I expected buttoned-up corporate guys, but I met them at the Four Seasons, where we were staying, and they were such a blast. It’s been a love affair ever since.

How many shoots have you done together?

Nearly 20. I’ve traveled the world with them. We went to Antibes this summer to shoot Julianna Margulies with Patrick Demarchelier at Hôtel du Cap. That FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

was certainly a dream come true. I’ve been to Paris many times with them as well, and also London, San Francisco, Napa Valley, L.A., Washington D.C., and Boston. We did a ski bunny story with Taraji P. Henson in Park City—that was pre-Cookie and Empire, when she was on Person of Interest. She was such a blast to work with. She’s enthusiastic about fashion, so it was such an incredible opportunity. With all my shoots, I try to create a character and do a bit of reinvention.

What are some of your favorite memories?

Julianna was incredible. She has impeccable taste— she’s a fashion muse, so clothes fit her like a glove.

We really vibed. We put her in an incredible black Altuzarra dress, and she just oozed sex appeal.

Which other leading ladies have you styled?

Mayim Bialik in Paris. That was a total reinvention.

The whole concept was an homage to couture. We pulled a lot of vintage couture pieces from Didier Ludot for that shoot. It was quite ladylike—a real throwback to old-world glamour. I also worked with Emily Wickersham from NCIS, whom I love to death.

She can wear anything.

Who are your favorite designers?

For women, I love Proenza Schouler. Jack [McCollough] and Lazaro [Hernandez] are dear friends of mine, too, so maybe I’m a little biased.

They’re so talented. I think they’re the biggest and brightest stars in New York right now. I also love Dries Van Noten—so unique but wearable. I love Prada, always. When you go to a Prada show, you're transported into a new world.

What’s your backstory?

I moved to New York in 1997 to attend NYU. During my freshman year, I started interning at Fashion File, a TV show on E! hosted by Tim Blanks. My boss gave me a schedule of all the shows that I needed to attend that season. This was when Helmut Lang was still showing—one of my favorite designers of all time. For an 18-year-old boy just getting to New York, it was everything I’d ever dreamed of. My first paid job was working as a features associate at what was then called the Fashion of the Times, and is now called T. I started writing for them, and then I got my second job at Details. They would give me little stories to style, and I really loved it. It just took off from there.

What did you do at Details?

I was an assistant for Maura Egan, who is my mentor.

She got me my first job at The New York Times and then I went over to work for her at Details, where I spent three years. It was the most incredible experience. I did so many different things there—I wrote, I styled, I did market. I got such an incredible sense of how magazines are run. I worked with some really big stylists. When they would come in to shoot, I would assist them on set. It taught me so much about the process. I was really sad to hear that it folded.

Who else do you style these days, besides Watch!?

It's a lot of juggling. I do a lot of work with Lord & Taylor and Hudson Bay. I style all of their men’s style manuals, catalogs, and men’s fashion editorials. I work with Robb Report and Out, and a lot for Luxury, the Visa Black Card magazine; I do a ton of different foreign editions of Men's Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, L’Officiel, and GQ. I also work with Hickey Freeman on their presentations and ad campaigns.

What do you bring to the table?

Taste is shaped by experience. Whether I’m at a fashion show or eating at a cool Asian mall in Flushing, I take something from every experience. I’m a sponge. It all morphs together to create something new and exciting. I have a strong background in menswear—it’s very precise, and I’m a Virgo, so I love that. I look at everything with a fine-tooth comb. Everything has to be perfect. But overall, I’m a really easygoing guy. Being able to collaborate with incredible photographers, creative directors, and designers is the most amazing feeling. I travel the world with incredible teams, amazing models, and super fun people. I try to have the best time I can while creating great work.

What is your favorite shoot that you’ve done?

Definitely working with Naomi Campbell. She has always been my muse, and she was the total diva that I thought she would be. You can put anything on her. She’s an incredibly glamorous Christmas tree that I got to bedazzle! ß

tastic location.

66 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7LA Tel: +44 (0) 20 7235 2000 Fax: +44 (0) 20 7235 2001 mandarinoriental.com

fabulous tearoom and all-day lounge. She was photographed by the royal entrance, which overlooks Royal Park lands, which is Hyde Park. We also photographed her in the Fitness Suite and in a Bar Boulud rickshaw—we were celebrating Bar Boulud’s five-year anniversary at the time. I have so much fun with all the talent we work with through CBS Watch!.

How is the relationship mutually beneficial?

It gives us across-the-board exposure. The audience and reach of CBS is incredible for the hotel. The U.S. is our No. 1 business market outside of the U.K. We have A-listers photographed not in one location at the hotel, but in many; we can tell a story.

What are some of the special amenities at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park?

I always say this is both town and country at one address. The entrance to the hotel is on Knightsbridge, which is London’s most prestigious shopping area. It overlooks Harvey Nichols, and it’s just down the street from Harrods. On the other side, you have the countryside—Hyde Park. When you’re having breakfast in our breakfast room overlooking the park, which is one of my favorite moments of the day, you feel like you’re in the middle of London. You see people walking their dogs or doing yoga or tai chi, and just a short walk away you’ve got the Serpentine, where you can take the boats out on the water.

Bar Boulud aside, what’s your fine-dining experience?

We have Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, which is the best restaurant in the U.K. and No. 7 in the world according to the San Pellegrino World’s Best Restaurant Awards.

We hear the spa is also pretty incredible.

It’s an award-winning spa with eight holistic rooms, and we now have a swimming pool, which we opened in May 2014, and a state-of-the-art gym.

How would you describe your experience with the Hosting everyone from the Queen of England to Winston Churchill, Mandarin Oriental?

I call it coming home, because I worked for the the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park is among London’s most treasured Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong for seven years. I was landmarks. In 1996, it joined the Mandarin Oriental’s luxurious roster, in Hong Kong when the hand over took place from and now, it’s drawing a new crowd of CBS’s top talents, thanks to a long Great Britain to China. Of course, then I spent time in friendship between Watch! and Sarah Cairns, director of communications Los Angeles, but coming back to London was nice not only because that’s where my roots are, but also it for the Mandarin Oriental. Cairns fills us in. was great to come home to the Mandarin family. It’s a

BY PAIGE REDDINGER unique luxury group with great values.

Did you stay at the hotel before you worked there?

Where did you shoot Michael Weatherly?

How did the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park get I've attended many weddings and birthdays there. It’s In our ballroom, in our Royal Suite, and outside. He’s involved with Watch!? an iconic building that’s steeped in so much history. full of charisma. That’s where Jeremy and his team I’ve known its editor, Jeremy, for 12 years. I used to The Queen and Princess Margaret learned to dance in get it right—they work with amazing actors who are live in Los Angeles, and I worked in PR for the Four the ballroom. Winston Churchill lived there during the really proud of what they do and who they work for.

Seasons. I did one or two shoots with them there, war. The Queen celebrated the marriage of William Any fun stories from behind the scenes? and when I joined Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in and Kate with a private dinner, the night before the When we shot Michael in the Royal December 2010, we kept in touch. I love Watch! I love wedding in the ballroom of the hotel.

Suite, we had lots of streamers how the hotel’s energy is expressed through their There had never been a gathering of so one to watch Sarah Cairns, director of communications for and sparkling confetti—basically pictures. There’s synergy between the magazine and many royals in one room. the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park. everything that you don’t want on our five-star property.

What is the most VIP room? sofas and carpet. I looked at it all and What was your first London project?

That’s the Royal Suite, which overlooks thought, What is housekeeping going In mid 2013, we shot Johnny Galecki in various Hyde Park. The terrace is amazing— to say? My team and I tried to clean up locations. We got a really hot shot of Johnny you could have a cocktail party for as much as possible, but housekeeping surrounded by the chaos of Knightsbridge, in the about 40 people outside. It’s a uniquely was extremely gracious about it. middle of the road between our property and Harvey chic three-bedroom apartment. It’s How often has the Mandarin Oriental Nichols. Johnny was also photographed throughout about 15,000 pounds per night. worked with Watch! on shoots? the hotel. Two shots were in Bar Boulud, Daniel What is your favorite room?

We’ve done four shoots. We also Boulud’s first European outpost, which is famous I love Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, shot Matt Czuchry from The Good for its burgers. Johnny was also shot in our Mandarin because of the expansive views of Hyde Wife, who cooked a foie gras burger Bar and in our Knightsbridge Suite. He’s got such Park. Can you just imagine when the with the chefs from Bar Boulud. That an amazing character. What a lovely, lovely, daffodils are coming out and the sun was Jeremy’s idea—we call him the lovely chap! is streaming through this wonderful Were you familiar with Johnny’s work beforehand? ambassador of our BB burger. We woodland? Also, the Royal Horse I didn’t know him personally, but I know of The Big also did a great shoot with Emily Guard passes by every morning.

Bang Theory, and I’m a really big fan.

Wickersham in The Rosebery, our That’s really something. ß

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

courtesy

Haute Hospitality

R

ecording my first written

composition, “Canopy,” was a true highlight of my career, and I am honored it’s become the official theme song for CBS Watch! My relationship with the magazine these past four years has been a wonderful and fulfilling collaboration, and out of that, great friendships have developed.

Congratulations to everyone at Watch! — Jeremy, Chris, Meagan, Michael, Jenn — and the rest of the team on your 10-year anniversary.

Charlie Siem

16_A003 Watch Charlie Siem Ad R1.indd 1

1/26/16 4:47 PM

Seeking some cerebral stimulation in style? Look no further than Evenings at The Surrey, a contemporary spin on the society salon. Together, Cornelia Spa, The Surrey hotel, and CBS Watch! transform the chic Presidential Suite into a highbrow haven, bringing tastemakers in fashion, art, and entertainment to a curated audience (this month, Derek Blasberg interviewed Dior Homme darling and classical violinist Charlie Siem). Spa owner Ellen Sackoff tells us there’s something for everyone…that is, if you make the list!

By kristen heinzinger

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Who came up with the idea for the soiree?

At our original day spa on Fifth Avenue, I started a signature speaker series. What I really know and love are the arts—I was a dancer, and I don’t come from the spa world. The series covered a variety of things, like Marilyn Monroe’s last seating, Japanese glass design, wellness. One of the pillars of Cornelia is the idea of discovery, and that it’s important to nurture your mind as much as your body. I was discussing the idea with Jeremy Murphy from CBS Watch! and he immediately offered to partner with us. We went to The Surrey, and they loved the idea too.

The inaugural Evenings at The Surrey was with fashion journo Kate Betts. How’d that go?

Amazing! We had 70 guests, which was more than planned. Before the talk, we gave a hand and arm and a hematite eye massage at the spa, as well as makeup touch-ups. Guests were escorted up to the Presidential Suite, and everyone mingled and had drinks and hors d’oeuvres by Café Boulud. Kate talked about things from her book My Paris Dream, like why she chose fashion instead of her plan to be a war correspondent, and how she coped not knowing a word of French in Paris. And the audience questions were really interesting…many people asked how she sees fashion today by comparison. Those are things you’re not going to get in the book!

What other topics do you have planned?

I would love to have an economist, a philosopher, or even an archaeologist, sprinkled in with celebrities, film, and fashion. It will probably stay more cultural, but we’re not limited to that. If I judge from last time, the audience was a mix of people in retail, finance, real estate, media, wellness, the arts…we had the founder and owner of the Epiphany Community Nursery School. So it’s an interesting cross section.

Why do you think it’s such a hot ticket?

I think by nature, everyone is curious!

How do you choose the speakers?

Cornelia, The Surrey, and CBS Watch! collaborate.

Because of CBS, we have access to people we otherwise wouldn’t. We’d really like to invite speakers who have been published, so that the audience always brings something back to their library. We gifted Kate Betts’ book, and will give away Charlie Siem’s CD. Is the conversation improvised?

It’s a bit scripted, but a lot of it is improvised. We want the interviewer to come up with the questions.

So far, it’s been editors and writers leading the discussion, so they’re experts at interviewing.

Any dream guests?

Charlie Rose—I need to ask him how he knows something about everything—and Suzy Menkes.

Would Suzy be the interviewee or interviewer?

The interviewee…interviewed by Tim Gunn. I’ve always wanted him to come to the spa so I can tell him that I love him!

So how do we get a ticket?

It’s exclusively invite-only. ß

getty images (3); courtesy

culture club

CHIC SPACES The soiree is staged in the luxe Presidential Suite; Cornelia Spa offers guests mini treatments beforehand.

T E S C B S WA TCH ! M AG T l d r o o f w c e e h l t e S b o r t it ies— AZ ss i n a FE p a l e I l f ro m IN tag N s k c E A thei ba a M r • per rs • e d sp a G CON

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ng ivi

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YEARS

LI GH TS . GLAMOUR. ACTION.

The nation’s premier independent experience design agency and proud publisher of Watch!, focused on creating impactful brand engagement through compelling content. For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-574-4375.

CBS ad_sf.indd 1

2/2/16 1:09 PM

A magazine named Watch! deserves its own anniversary timepiece, no? Watchmaker Waldan International created the WATCH! Edition Chronograph Chronometer for the occasion. The brand, founded

by Oscar Waldan, is now run by his 23-year-old son, Andrew, the youngest CEO in the Swiss watch industry. Meet the maverick!

By Kristen Heinzinger

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

giorgio niro; courtesy

TELLING TIME

What’s the brand’s backstory?

My father was born in the early 1920s in Poland. He developed a huge passion for watchmaking after he disassembled his father’s pocket watch. Before it was something he could pursue, WWII broke out, and Poland was the first country to be invaded.

The watchmaker at Buchenwald concentration camp made him an apprentice. His refuge after the war was watchmaking.

When did you become involved in the business?

My father told me all the time that I was literally born to be his successor. I wanted to watch cartoons, and hang out with my friends and do typical kid things, but instead he pushed me. He sent me to Lycée Français de New York, and after school he’d call me to the office. We’d travel to Basel every year, and I’d help him run booths at the major trade shows. During summers, I spent every day with our watchmakers.

So, what did you do for fun as a kid?

Drew watches, played instruments…my parents kept me very busy. My father flooded me with LEGO sets.

Do you personally build any watches?

Multiple! Assembling a movement is kind of like assembling a LEGO set. There are 200 to 300 pieces that have to fit together for it to work.

Who are some clients?

We’ve manufactured for Tourneau, Tiffany & Co., and Neiman Marcus, and we have had customers like Donna Karan.

Is this collaboration with Watch! a first for you?

We once made 30 or 40 watches for the MoMA. When I met with CBS, the main thing they were interested in was our story. They came up with the idea.

What went into designing the watch?

CBS wanted a version of one of our existing models— it was the one I was wearing during our meeting!

Originally, we were going to do 10 identical ones, but I decided to do something more artistic using different color combinations, metals, and eccentricities to give a different character to each one. It offers six complications, including a chronograph.

In what ways is it a “CBS” watch?

Our numerals are hand applied, so we painted them the Pantone color in the CBS logo. We also handengraved the logo on the rotor, along with the watch edition—1 of 10, 2 of 10, etc.—on the side of the case, and the back is sapphire crystal.

So, what’s your personal taste?

My taste is classic, which is the basis of our company, but we have to fit into the modern market. I focus on quality materials and a slightly modern flair.

How did you learn to design?

My father used to give me blank dials and have me trace them. That was his way of finding my talent.

How did you learn to tell time?

I learned analog from our former watchmaker, Otto.

What was your first watch?

It was a Waldan watch—my father wouldn’t have it any other way. He gave me his scraps…the old beatup quartz watch that he always wore. The first watch that I bought on my own was a Gérald Genta Skeleton Perpetual—my dad was close with Genta.

If you have kids, will you make them your protégés?

Definitely! I’ll support them if they do something else, but I’d love for them to carry on the legacy.

How can we get our hands on a CBS watch?

One is being given away in a sweepstakes, three are going to charities, and the rest are TBD! ß

10 YEARS AND WE STILL CAN’T TAKE OUR EYES OFF YOU. CONGRATULATIONS

CBS

WATCH! MAGAZINE ON YOUR DECADE OF EXCELLENCE.

YOUR FRIENDS AT

courtesy

THE COVER EXHIBIT > To mark the magazine’s 10-year anniversary, the Watch! team wanted to incorporate CBS’s historic New York headquarters—Black Rock, off Avenue of the Americas—into a celebration of its publishing milestone. And so they commissioned one of the country’s most respected creators of museum exhibitions, Ralph Appelbaum Associates (RAA), to build eight-foot-tall displays of four of the magazine’s favorite covers, which are being displayed in both sides of the CBS lobby throughout February.

“We’ve always considered our covers to be art, because we have the privilege of working with the very best artists in creating them,” says Jeremy Murphy, Watch! editor in chief. “So the goal became to create some kind of exhibition worthy of not only the photographers but the setting. We needed to respect that legacy while telling a new story about Watch! magazine. It was a delicate balance, but I think we achieved something very timeless, elegant, and rarefied.”

Watch! editors and creative executives for RAA began the painstaking process last fall, combing through thousands of photos in the magazine’s archive, and deciding to highlight just two shooters from the magazine’s masthead. It took three months to get the photography, design, and construction perfect.

Needing to avoid the busy, weekday foot traffic of the building, members of the Watch! staff and artists and assemblers from RAA came in on a Sunday to build the giant structures.

“What a terrific experience working with the CBS and Watch! teams on this celebration of their 10th anniversary,” says Ralph Appelbaum, founder of RAA. “It’s the real deal.”

outside

THE BOX Watch! has consistently created original marketing ideas to promote its brand. The team reveals how the magazine has worked with a British violinist, a cat, and even Fran Lebowitz over the years.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Watch! out Clockwise from left: British violinist Charlie Siem plays with the orchestra; Jeremy Murphy with Fran Lebowitz; My Paris Dream is author Kate Betts’ best seller; the Watch! watch, created by Waldan International.

In December 2014, British violinist Charlie Siem, then just 28, wrote his first composition for Watch! magazine. At a dinner meeting in London weeks before, the magazine inquired whether the internationally renowned musician had considered writing his own music. “At first, I was taken aback,” Siem recalls. “I said to Jeremy Murphy, ‘I’m a performer, not a composer.’

But I soon learned he doesn’t take no for an answer.”

Says Murphy: “Every year, we do a sizzle reel for our magazine to showcase to our advertisers what the magazine is all about with video, stills, and B-roll, but we’d have to license music, which was very costly. For our next marketing reel, we wanted something original and all our own. Charlie is a friend to the magazine, so I basically insisted he at least think about it.”

The violinist already had an idea in his head and recorded it over a weekend, and sent Murphy a raw file that Monday. “I was hooked, instantly,” Murphy says.

“Not only would this play well with our clients, but we saw a broader audience for it and immediately started developing a campaign for the mass audience.”

Siem spent the next three months mastering the composition while Murphy sold the idea in-house to the higher-ups at CBS. “The idea was pretty nuts, admittedly,” he says. “But I’m blessed to have bosses who can see beyond the horizon, and they got it. That’s the beauty of working for a company like CBS; every idea is listened to and considered.

It’s a very entrepreneurial culture.”

The score, which Siem titled “Canopy,” was performed on a cold day that December in a church called St. Silas the Martyr. Members of the English Chamber Orchestra arrived to find music sheets with the song placed on their stands; Siem had finished writing and printing the night before. It was the first time the 22-piece orchestra had seen— never mind rehearsed—the score. As the musicians tuned their instruments, multiple video crews began filming from every angle. “I showed up, and there was a huge orchestra, with video crews, sound engineers, lights, and cameras everywhere,” Murphy says. Siem and the orchestra perfected the compoFA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

sition over the morning and afternoon, and the score then went to Team One, which crafted the video.

In February 2014, the project premiered to rave reviews. The New York Times hailed the concept as the future for magazine brands, given how so much content is now spread digitally across many platforms, allowing for sound and video. “What struck me was the incongruity of a magazine commissioning a musical score,” says Stuart Elliott, who wrote the piece. “With websites and tablet editions, everyone has to think multiplatform these days, and I liked the fun of playing off traditional print versus aural music.”

the face of Watch!, Whiskers included

Members of the Watch! crew traveled to Paris in May 2013 to shoot The Big Bang Theory actress Mayim Bialik at Le Bristol. They not only found a five-star setting, but a precious mascot for the hotel—a Birman cat named Fa-Raon, after the Egyptian pharaoh. The frisky feline roams the hotel freely, interacting with guests throughout the day. Le Bristol president Didier Le Calvez came up with the idea, thinking a house cat would add warmth and a sense of home to the hotel.

“And that’s where it hit me,” Murphy explains.

“We needed a mascot.” Originally, the magazine envisioned a dog, but on a walk through his neighborhood

on a rainy Saturday, Murphy spotted a 6-month-old Persian cat. “I was in a pet store to do research, never intending to get a pet there,” he says. “We really wanted a rescue. But my heart melted, and I wound up taking him home.” The cat was soon named Champers, and announced as the magazine’s mascot two months later. Champers was given his own voice, courtesy of comedian, TV personality, and author Frank DeCaro, as well as a column in the magazine, an Instagram feed, and Facebook page. “We even brought him to Paris during a Watch! cover shoot and photographed him throughout the Plaza Athénée,” Murphy says. “To this day, whenever I go back, one of the staff inevitably asks, ‘Where is zee cat?’ ”

The Watch! Watch

For its 10th anniversary, Watch! partnered with the Swiss watchmaker Waldan International to create the obvious—a watch for a magazine called Watch!.

“Everyone thinks we are a magazine about watches anyway,” Murphy says. “So this was a tongue-incheek idea that played on that.” Murphy and Andrew Waldan, the company’s owner, struck a marketing partnership that would find the magazine promoting the brand while getting its own bespoke timepiece.

“The watch is uniquely ours—it’s a very thoughtful piece of jewelry that has the elegance and sense of refinement we think our magazine stands for,” Murphy says. Two of the watches were auctioned at a party for the magazine’s anniversary on Tuesday, with proceeds benefitting the Museum of Tolerance and Team Rubicon, a veteran’s organization.

up close and personal

“We do an intimate salon series at The Surrey hotel and the Cornelia spa,” Murphy says. “Our first one was with Kate Betts, who talked about her career.

We previously did an event with Fran Lebowitz, who was so witty and spot-on. She sparred with some of the guests, which is exactly what we wanted. That inspired us to reach out to The Surrey and Cornelia and work together on an ongoing series. Our latest is a conversation between Charlie Siem and Derek Blasberg. We want to elevate discussion and give people a chance to come to an intimate setting with artists and musicians in a one-on-one experience.” ß

COURTESY

music to their ears, and pages

Patrick Demarchelier, Beauty, Still life

Hair, Kids, News, Photographers, Gif, Chris

Turner, Jewels, Drinks, Food Portraits, lifestyle, Director

celebrities, cosmetics & Fragrances Watches, Editorial, Illustrator, Body,

Baard Lunde,

Swim, Lingerie, Bridal, Men, Personal Teen, Katrina

Stylist, Hairstylist, Babies,

Dove Shore Sho , Bikes, Cars, --------------------------

New York, USA, 41, Union Square, Suite 721. Tel. + 212 966 5830 --------------------------

Fashion Studio, Fashion Location, --------------------------

ANGELA DE BONA Agency Paris/New York

Paris, France 2 rue beetoven, 75016. Tel. +331 53 53 91 91

Photographers, Directors, Illustrator Representative.

Conceptual, Fashion,

Coolife, instagram, FB : Angela De Bona Agency, Erez Sabag Michalis Christodoulou, Sacha’s Angels Tony Kim, Rayan Ayash, Justin Borbely, Behind the lens th diary,

Tang, covers,

--------------------------

Indrani #ADBAgency, Kerry Hallihan, Gilles-Marie Zimmermann, Andrea Klarin, into the wild, Tibi Clenci, Lise-Anne Marsal Till human voices wake us,

10 CBS WATCH! Congratulations

YEARS!

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ALESSANDRO Michele Gucci god

RUSSELL BRAND Meditating man

Bee Shaffer Anna’s darling

tanya taylor Adorbs designer

LANGLEY FOX HEMINGWAY Artist who models

paula goldstein Influencer who edits

CHANEL IMAN Top model

ZENDAYA Teen queen

STACY LONDON Popular stylist

REBECCA MINKOFF Populist bagmaker

CHER Iconic entertainer

INEZ VAN LAMSWEERDE Legendary photographer

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