FEBRUARY 14, 2017
Jeremy Scott Carolina Herrera proenza schouler
FIX OVERLOAD! Your front-row shenanigans, discussed
OUR
DARLING VALENTINES GIGI & BELLA
EV E RY GR EAT H A I R STORY S TA R T S H E R E M O R O CCAN O IL T R EAT ME N T A N D M O R O C C A N O I L T R E AT M E N T L I G H T: TH E U LT I M AT E F O U N DAT I O N F O R A L L H A I R C A R E A N D S T Y L I N G INFUSED WITH NOURISHING ARGAN OIL
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1/24/17 7:58 AM
PRABAL GURUNG Huma Abedin, Priyanka Chopra, Diane Kruger, and Sarah Jessica Parker
SIES MARJAN
scene
Prabal Gurung and Sarah Jessica Parker
CHIC CHAT!
GOING DEEP!
With Sarah Jessica Parker
With Aymeline Valade
Why did you come to Prabal’s show? He’s my friend. I wear Prabal everywhere I can. How many shows have you graced in your lifetime? Not an enormous amount. There was a period when Pat [Field] and I would go prior to shooting [Sex and the City] to put together looks for the series and the movies. I was supposed to see Laura and Fernando at Oscar, but I have a parent night that I am literally required to be at!
OPRAH CHECK!
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Stella McCartney switched looks?
With Blair Breitenstein, who co-hosted The Daily x LIFEWTR party
ENJOY THE RIDE!
VR MUSTS AT SAMSUNG 837
PROMOTION
The Daily Wonders…
Which editor appeared in Caddyshack? Natalie Massenet: Was it a girl or a guy? Polly Mellen? Edward Enninful: Polly Mellen. Anne Fulenwider: André Leon Talley. Kyle Anderson: Nina Garcia. TURN THE PAGE, PEOPLE!
Where do you look for inspiration? I am always browsing Tumblr, magazines, Instagram, and books for fashion collections with interesting volume, patterns, and color. Who are your muses? I seem to consistently feature ’60s bombshells in my work.
SHOE OF THE DAILY Set the style barre high in these show-stopping SUPERSONIC flats. Subtle yet impact-making tweaks set the season’s freshest spin on the classic silhouette apart: Crafted from sumptuous suede, these luxe lace-ups feature coordinating wide straps designed to coil around the ankle and are cut low on the sides for an elongating effect, making them perfect with cropped wide-leg trousers. $398, stuartweitzman.com
RETOUCHED BY AN ANGEL! What if…Donatella Versace and FASHION’S MOST INSPIRED!
With Adam Glassman How’s our friend Oprah? Your friend Oprah is very good. She’s in New Zealand right now filming a movie, A Wrinkle in Time. Who’s on your next cover? Take a guess! We’re fortunate that we’re not in that celebrity game. Anything to plug? We’re doing an Alaskan cruise with Oprah in July!
You have a very intense expression. I appreciate that. Are you deep? I am f**king deep. Yesterday, someone said, “You’re overthinking,” and I said, “Maybe you’re underthinking!” Do people think you’re difficult? People who don’t understand would say that. I’m not difficult. I’m very precise.
Natalie Massenet
A COY CONVO!
With Natalie Massenet
Can we ask you some questions? I’m here as a civilian. What are you up to these days? Stay tuned! Okay…where are you living? In London or at The Mercer. Can you give us any hint of what you’re doing next? “Stay tuned” is pretty good. Does that mean television? Oh! If I say anything, I’ll start giving things away. Have you done anything to relax? I’ve been relaxing for a year.
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If you haven’t popped into Samsung 837 in MePa for Kendall + Kylie, KITHLAND, or the free concerts, do yourself a favor and carve out an hourlong “lunch” break to test-drive some of the VR experiences. Consider this your guide to an awesome midday reprieve: Roller-coaster ride Find the VR Tunnel on the first floor (you can’t miss it), take a seat, and strap on the Gear VR Headset. Then the ride begins, bumps and simulated stomach-in-throat-inducing drop included. This is the perfect adrenaline fix for anyone with a case of vertigo. The Raid This is one way to get your heart racing—wear the Gear VR Headset and Level On Headphones, and immerse yourself in this highintensity mini episode, a prequel to Fox’s new 24: Legacy TV series. Stand on the platform, which moves and vibrates based on whichever action is coming your way, hold on to the railings, dive head first into a firefight, and come out entirely unscathed. Whiplash This 360 ride is not for the faint of heart. A mobile chair spins you sideways and upside down, and combined with the Gear VR Headset, the 4-D-VR experience has you dodging meteors in outer space or piloting your own airplane; the experience changes regularly.
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Hooray! The climate control issues at Clarkson were resolved just in time for Prabal Gurung. The designer’s inspo? “Women who showed up and marched,” he said, sporing a tee that proclaimed his feminist-ity. “The majority who often gets neglected has the strongest voice, and they showed it. Together, we can resist and we can create!” • Sies Marjan (randomly) showed at the Hilton Hotel, but no matter—his outing was among the winningest of the week. You’ve made it, gorgeous.
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©2017 Maybelline LLC.
Sara Ruffin Costello
Christene Barberich
Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO
J.CREW
scene
Taylor Tomasi Hill
Sandra Bernhard
STRAIGHT TALK!
With Sandra Bernhard
Is this your modeling debut? Hell, no! Honey, I’ve been walking the runway since the late ’80s. Kidding! We know. What’s been your fondest memory in a show? The Chanel show back in the day was a highlight. They dressed me as Coco Chanel. What’s it like being on display this way? I’m on display 24 hours a day. Did you have any say in the look you’re wearing? None! I showed up today and it just fit. Right now it’s a fabulous statement to be making against the background of total tyranny.
REVELATION! With Robbie Myers Have you ever modeled before? Yes! When I was much younger. Hometown girl. Would you ever model for J.Crew? They haven’t asked me! Very intrigued by your former modeling career. It was short-lived and went the same way as my movie career. Did you ever act? I wouldn’t call it acting. I was in [the movie] Caddyshack.
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Design Director Jill Serra Wilde Fashion Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Associate Editor Sydney Sadick Art Director Magdalena Long Designer Sean Talbot Contributing Photo Editor Hannah Turner-Harts Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists RJ Hamilton, George Maier
J.Crew once again used nonmodels (i.e., real people) to show the new collection at Spring Studios. (Isn’t everyone “real”? Anyway!) Somsack Sikhounmuong plans to recuperate with a road trip. “I was supposed to drive the PHC to a spa near Big Sur, but there are landslides and wildfires, so we’re heading to the Saguaro hotel in Palm Springs instead,” he said.
INTIMATE SCOOP!
60 SECONDS! Liv Freundlich
With Julianne Moore
Your daughter, Liv, is the cutest thing we’ve ever seen! Thank you! I think so, too! I’m proud and so happy. I love Jenna [Lyons] and her vision for fashion. Was Liv nervous? At first, but Jenna and her team made Liv feel so good. How do you know Jenna? We’ve been friends for a few years and she asked me at a Christmas party if Liv would do it. I asked Liv and she said, “Yeah!” Our beloved Village Pizza has your photo on the wall! That’s my place! I don’t eat pizza as often as I used to, but I like it plain and very hot!
More than 30 designers rely on Commando to handle the undergarments and hosiery for their NYFW shows. This season, the brand created custom hosiery for Prabal Gurung that nods to ready-towear’s distinct fashion sensibility. Underwear is ready-to-wear, loves! Expect to see more custom Commando pieces on the Rodarte runway in Paris.
Erin and Sara Foster
ORDERING LUNCH! With Anne Fulenwider at Public School Our office is near yours! Where should we eat? Have Caviar deliver Sweetgreen. Any chance you go to Wendy’s? No. I didn’t even know there was a Chipotle across the street. Come to the Hearst cafeteria!
prabal gurung
Mark Tevis Publisher
Marni, $392
Executive Sales Director Stephen Savage Account Manager Cristina Graham
Prada, $493
Proenza Schouler, $598
#pretty influential Look We Love! Loving the NYFW style of Erin and Sara Foster, who are talking fashion (and more!) in their daily NYFW show, “Pretty Influential"? Get the look—and watch the show at theoutnet.com.
Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Manager Carey Cassidy Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row
The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste. 301, New York, NY 10107.
On the cover:
DRAMATIC EYES
SELF-PORTRAIT Fall 2017
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
At Self-Portrait, Maybelline New York was inspired by fashion-loving British girls to create a beauty look that reflects an easy, lived-in vibe. Brows are amplified with Brow Precise Micro Pencil, and then the eyelid is lined with Matte Metallics by Color Sensational in Copper Rose, using an angled liner brush. BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Facestudio Master Strobing Liquid Illuminating Highlighter, ($9.99), maybelline.com
getty images (9); firstview (1); shutterstock (1)
Gigi and Bella Hadid, photographed by Kevin Mazur / Getty Images.
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©2017 Maybelline LLC.
runwayReport
FINE ROMANCE
From a hard-edged version of femininity at Herrera to Sies Marjan’s quiet riot, designers are channeling their passions into some seriously forward-thinking clothes. By ASHLEY BAKER & PAIGE REDDINGER
carolina herrera The reigning queen of uptown style has something new afoot this season, and we’re not just referencing those combat boots that were paired with a demure skirt suit. A crisp, pristine white shirtdress—Herrera’s territory, surely—was toughened up with a leather moto; silk chiffon skirts were paired with same-color knits. Even the evening looks felt antisaccharine, especially a floorgrazing silk skirt paired with a long-sleeved sequin top on Maartje Verhoef. As for the show stealer? Bella Hadid’s faintly ’70s iridescent dress, complete with a deep V-neck and flounced sleeves. All in all, a testament to girl power.
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runwayReport
sies marjan
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Should you hit the town or curl up on a chaise and take a sweet slumber in Sies Marjan’s silky wonderland? How about both? The beauty of Sander Lak’s splendidly colorful creations lies in their ease and wearability. Want to have the crowd at Mr. Chow (uptown) swivel their heads as you descend the staircase? Try one of Lak’s fuchsia or orange creamsicle furs. Or breeze through the entrance to the Top of the Standard in a fresh mint green silk gown, head straight to the roof, and let it blow in the wind. A kaleidoscope of colors so delicious you could—and should—just eat them up! Congrats, Sander—you have officially become a highlight of the NYFW calendar.
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runwayReport
proenza schouler It’s not fair. It’s just not fair! Next season, Proenza Schouler is heading to Paris, and honestly, it hurts. At least they’re leaving us on a (very high) note with a collection that merges art (splatter paint), architecture (layered chiffon dresses), and sheer emotion. Too many good looks to enumerate: those leather dresses with the cinched waists…those sequined cut-outs…that shearling-trimmed leather trench…the all-tied-up midi dresses! Good thing they’ve got a store in Soho, because these are clothes that we’re going to keep close to our hearts—i.e., on our bodies— from here to eternity.
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altuzarra Calling all boss ladies—if you’re spending Monday to Friday in suits, don’t even bother looking elsewhere, because Joseph Altuzarra is making the most bodacious ones in the biz. That red Prince of Wales check ensemble…Joseph, honey, our hearts can only take so much! (Combat boots optional, but highly recommended.) The show’s notes referenced Shakespeare’s Macbeth— “Look like th’innocent flower, but be the serpent underneath”—and accordingly, Altuzarra paired femme frocks inspired by Northern European Renaissance paintings with pavement-pounding boots that you’re going to see partout come fall.
prabal gurung
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Fur real, loves—Prabal Gurung is churning out some appealing floral fuzzies. Same goes for shear jackets, floral dresses, and an epic silver lamé number that’s practically guaranteed to be the best way to spend your bonus. (Some industries still get those, right?) Had Prabal shown earlier in the week, it could have rescued one of the many fashion tragedies at the Grammy Awards.
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runwayReport
public school Clever, clever! Did you catch those “Make America New York” hats? In their first outing post-DKNY, Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne can fully focus on their hometown and its many stylish implications. Indeed, it’s the city’s heady mix of cultures, worldviews, and passions that make it, well, the place to be. Those were reflected in gussiedup suiting, denim bombers, and killer coats. But the duo also gave good ole American staples, like quilting and corduroy.
BEAUTY TREND alert!
SHARP BROWS
By Grace Lee for MAYBELLINE NEW YORK
The runways have been hellbent on surprise this season, and the star of Tome’s show was Jacky O’Shaughnessy, an elegant woman of a certain age styled in a blush pink PVC trench over a fur vest, black pants, and a white button-down. Proof that you can look hip at any age, but also a testament to the fact that these clothes are not strictly the territory of twentysomethings. Tributes to the female form came in a series of silhouette-emblazoned looks. While the show celebrated all shapes, ages, and sizes, several pieces had the added bonus of a trompe l’oeil slimming effect. We’ll take it!
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tome
gypsy sport You don’t expect to see Gigi Hadid or even Selena Forrest on the runway at Gypsy Sport, but this season’s street casting was particularly special in that the models were picked from recent protests and marches in NYC. Rio Uribe was thinking of the downtrodden, from the street kids of Venice Beach to the refugees in Europe to the poverty-stricken in Mexico, where Uribe produced the collection. But for any PC police who might be offended by this collection’s overt references to the displaced and homeless, Gypsy Sport is giving part of its proceeds to the Bowery Mission. Fashion isn’t always frivolous! Besides, we’re thinking the Marge Simpson meets Eddie Munster look may be one of our fave looks of the season.
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characterSketch
THE MUSE GIGI HADID
MEET THE SCOTT CLAN! We sent fashion illustrator A.E. Kieren to live-sketch the scene at Jeremy Scott’s show and after-party. “Everybody I talked to had been working for Jeremy for a long time,” Kieren says. “There’s a lot of loyalty there.”
THE RIGHT HAND Pablo Olea “Jeremy Scott’s closest colleague and life partner has been working with Jeremy for 20 years.”
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g e t t y i m ag e s ( 4 ) ; f i r s t v i e w ( 2 )
By A.E. Kieren
MODELS…
Slick Woods “She was look #42 on the runway—she’s also an aspiring sneaker designer from Minneapolis!”
…MODELS…
POLAROID MOMENT! JEREMY SCOTT STUDIES THE LOOKS.
Elizabeth Moore “She’s a new face from Next.”
THE JEWELRY MAVEN
LYNN BAN “She designed all the jewelry for the runway show. She was backstage with her husband, Jett, and her 8-yearold son, Sebastian. The family is close friends with Jeremy.”
…and MODELS! TyG DAVISON“She’s represented by Ford.”
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stylistSays
From Zendaya to Céline Dion to Ariana Grande, Hollywood’s buzziest are turning to stylist Law Roach to reinvent their looks. The L.A.-based “image architect”—a term he’s coined—speaks to building the styles of his highly visible clientele, creative-directing Daya by Zendaya, and why becoming a judge on America’s Next Top Model is such a fitting gig.
law of attraction By sydney sadick
Growing up in Chicago, were you always a fashion guy? I was born with a love for fashion. I grew up around really stylish women. I remember my mom taking her baths—she’d get out, roll her hair, and polish her nails. As a little boy, I was captivated by just the way women were, and that’s what led me into what I do now: dressing women. How did you start your career in styling? I never wanted to be a stylist, per se. Coming from where I came from, I never understood that styling was an actual career that people made money from, but when you have a certain love for something, you figure it out and find a way. My first taste of styling was in vintage—I used to collect and curate. You call yourself an image architect. What does that mean?
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It came from thinking about what I do differently from other stylists. I coined that term because when I get the call to work with someone, the first thing I do is research: I look at everything they’ve ever worn or done, and then I start to break down who I think they are, style-wise. When I meet with them, I want to know what they want their fashion footprint or profile to be, so I’m really building a blueprint before I get the clothes. In my mind, I’m doing the exact same thing that an architect would do prior to construction. The final product is when everything comes together and the public gets to see something I’ve built or had a lot of hand in building. Who was your first celebrity client? Zendaya was my first true client where we built something together. When we first started, we had synergy and chemistry—we knew that we would be
together from the day we met. I’m the only stylist she’s ever had, and she’s my muse and my canvas. How did you two meet? It was so weird and random! I had a vintage store in Chicago, and one of her dad’s very best friends was one of my customers. She asked if I could put some looks together and they would fly me to L.A. I was there with her, and Zendaya and her dad came through the door—she was around 15 at the time and was so tall and beautiful. I was like, “Wow, she’s gorgeous!” and we all began to chat. That day, she’d been invited to Justin Bieber’s Never Say Never movie premiere. Her dad was taking her shopping for it, so his friend—my customer at the time—suggested I help her pick out her outfits. It was that casual! Zendaya and I got to the mall and broke off from everybody, and that’s how we started. It was basically
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about being in the right place at the right time. I’m a firm believer that the universe puts you in places at the exact moment you’re supposed to be there— nothing happens without a reason. And now you’re the creative director of her brand, Daya by Zendaya. As Zendaya’s celebrity grew, we felt it was time to give people who followed her a little piece of what she loves. We know each other’s boundaries, and for the most part, I call her my fashion soulmate. We’ve been so close in this space together that we know our likes and dislikes. We compromise—if she doesn’t like a certain shoe but I’m passionate about it, she’ll be like, “Okay, I’ll give you that one, but you owe me one!” and vice versa, so it’s really easy to work together. We have mutual respect for our ideas and tastes. How do you see Daya by Zendaya expanding? I see it as a full lifestyle brand: children’s clothing, pets, eyewear, candles…everything! Could you see yourself designing your own line? The more I learn about retail, design, and manufacturing, it does make me want to do something on my own that’s totally me and my aesthetic, but it will likely be menswear. That market is changing, and men have become more fashionforward and less conservative than what we used to be—especially the millennials. You’ve been credited for transforming Céline Dion’s look. Céline was following my work with Zendaya, and she was ready to switch stylists. We had a really informal meeting, and we had good energy, and she hired me. I went on tour with her this past summer—we had an amazing run in Paris where I switched up her style a little bit and introduced her to some brands that she hadn’t worn, like Vetements and Off-White, and she loved it! Fashion is supposed to be polarizing. Everybody’s not supposed to like everything you do. If that does happen, it’s boring for me. How often are you in Vegas these days? I love and adore Céline, but I’m not a big fan of Vegas. I’m here more than I’d like to be, to be honest, around three times a month for a couple of days at a time. We’re going to be introducing some new gowns into her show, so we’re working on that right now. What do you do when you’re there? I’ll have a nice meal—I went to Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill for brunch [recently], which was really good. I love chefs—I’m kind of a foodie—so if something’s opening up here I try to sneak off and try it. I also work, do a little shopping, whether it’s for Céline or for myself, and then I really just stay in my room. I don’t gamble, and I don’t drink or party a lot, and that’s why people come here—but not me! What’s your favorite Céline song? “My Heart Will Go On!” Isn’t that everybody’s favorite? How’s your singing voice? Horrible! [Laughs] When I’m around Céline she sings a lot, so I’ll start singing along. But then I’m like, why am I even trying to sing with Céline Dion? What have you learned from Céline? So many lessons, but definitely her work ethic and her grace. When I first got hired and told all my friends on a group chat, one of my friends was like, “What if she’s a diva?” I said, “If she is a diva, she’s Céline Dion and she deserves to be a diva.” When I went to that first fitting in Paris, we were there for six hours and when I left my whole face hurt from laughing. She’s so down-to-earth and funny—a real person—and I learned that no matter how successful
you become, just remain true to who you are. If she’s even just five minutes late to something, she’s profusely apologetic about it. She has respect for other people’s time, and it’s just amazing to see a person at her level being that humble. I hope that my success continues to rise, and I’ll always take that with me—to be kind to people, say thank you to people, and do what your mother and father taught you to be a good person. I’d still love her if she were a diva, but the fact you get that bonus of her being such an amazing mother and human being…it makes it that much better. What was your reaction when you heard you were going to be a judge on America’s Next Top Model? I was excited because I was obsessed with ANTM back in the day. That was something my friends and I did not miss in the first five or six seasons—it was the topic of conversation! It’s a moment for me to become a part of a franchise, legacy, and such an amazing show. Tyra [Banks] has a zest for more— she’s had all these successes as a model, actress, TV show host, executive producer, and [took courses] at Harvard Business School. She’s inspirational and aspirational—I’m just happy she knows my name and
ONE TO JUDGE (Above) With the America’s Next Top Model team.
“ ‘What if she’s a diva?’ I said, ‘If she is a diva, she’s Céline Dion and she deserves to be a diva.’ ”
(Below, from left): With Zendaya, a look on Zendaya, Céline Dion, and Ariana Grande.
has my phone number! What kind of perspective do you bring to the show? I’m really honest and emotional. I want to give those girls the best advice and critiques that I can. I may come off as mean or bitchy sometimes, but it’s not in a malicious way. It’s more like, “Girl, I need you to understand what I’m saying to you to help build your brand or be a better model!” I’m really, really invested. ß’
LAW’S LOOKS
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MOVES LIKE JAGGER
It’s not exactly common to serve as muse for Hedi Slimane, sit front row at Dolce & Gabbana, and land a major fashion editorial all before you can legally vote. But for the gorgeous spawn of Pamela Anderson and Tommy Lee, anything can happen. Meet Dylan Jagger Lee, a model du moment who’s ready to hit a new high note in not-so-foreign territory: music. By SYDNEY SADICK How did you end up as a major model? It just happened! I told my mom that some guy named Hedi Slimane wanted to meet me, but I had no idea who he was. My mom was like, “I’m pretty sure I’ve heard that name,” so then I found out he was the creative director at Saint Laurent. I was just a surfer kid who liked going to the beach in swim trunks—I didn’t really have a fashion sense. Someone reached out to my agency for a casting he was holding, and as soon as I got there, he kicked everyone else out. What were your first impressions of him?
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People told me he was going to be mysterious and a little on the edge, so I prepared myself that it could be weird. He loved everything I was doing, so I got comfortable with him. We had dinner together, which was cool, because I was told he never just goes and hangs out with people. We shot a video in Malibu two weeks later. Do you still keep in touch with him now that he’s left the brand? No, but I was supposed to get his number. I wish he was still there because he’s the man, and I had a
really dope connection with him. Who else have you modeled for? I recently did a campaign for True Religion and shoots for W and VMAN. Things have been starting to roll. Would you ever consider runway modeling? I would do it, but I’m a little short. Maybe one day I’ll do a strut for everyone. [Laughs] Who are your favorite designers? I love Dsquared, Fear of God, Off-White, Vivienne Westwood, Dolce & Gabbana, and Saint Laurent. I used to hate clothes. I’d say, “Anyone who wears that Prada or Dolce stuff isn’t cool,” because I was this beach bum. But now, I love it—I live for my Tom Ford suits. What’s up with your music? I’ve always found music fun. I play guitar and piano and I guess I sing, but that’s not going to be part of the deal. [Laughs] I produce electronic music—Diplo and Skrillex kind of stuff. I think it would be really cool to intertwine the two—music and modeling—so I do want to keep up both. Do you have plans to release tracks? I’m going to [music] school, so I’m going to wait until that’s done. I want to be the best I can be before I release tracks to the world. I have plenty of music that I made, but you have to come out with a bang, especially if people already know who you are—you can’t do something half-assed. What’s the dynamic like with your brother, Brandon [Thomas Lee]? He’s really into acting, but we both model, so we’re linked together. We want to go our separate ways. Modeling is good for both of us because it’s a good way to travel, make money, have fun, network, and meet new people, but we want to be known as Brandon and Dylan rather than “the brothers.” You grew up out of the public eye. What was that like? Me and my brother went to boarding school in Canada for five years. We left L.A. when the Jenners and Will Smith’s kids were rising up. The fact we were gone kind of made us outcasts. We were our own little random team, which I think is really cool. I want to be in the big scheme of it, but on my own scale. Did your parents give you the success bug? Both of them tell me, “You can’t just be some kid [who’s] an offspring of famous people and make it—you actually have to put in effort.” They’ve really drilled that into my head. I know a lot of these kids who say, “I’m obviously going to make it because my family is successful.” Does your mom come on shoots with you? She came with me to meet Hedi—because I told her to—but she doesn’t really like being involved. She says, “I don’t want to be a model mom, like a soccer mom.” [Laughs] Who do people say you look like? Some say my mom and others say my dad. People will say, “You look nothing like your mom but exactly like your dad,” and another person will say exactly the opposite. Like, how is that possible? Has your dad been influential in your music career? I wouldn’t say he pushed me to be in music, but he’s been really influential. As soon as I turned 15 I knew it was exactly what I wanted to do. He has a studio at his house so having that is huge; I use it every day. What are some of the next milestones you want to hit? To start playing big-scale music and performing at festivals like Coachella and EDC. That’s the goal! ß
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STAR POWER With the blessing of André Leon Talley and endorsements from Ri-Ri, Kim K, Queen Bey, and beyond, LaQuan Smith is making more than buzz—he is unapologetically making a statement. BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER
Kelly Rowland André Leon Talley AnnaSophia Robb
Christina Milian Serena Williams
You weren’t always in fashion—tell us where it began for you. My grandmother taught me how to sew, and taught me about craftsmanship and patternmaking. That was my formal training. But I was rejected from Parsons and FIT. One day, I was coming from a fashion show uptown, and I had sketches on me. I started talking to this lady on the train—I was this young kid aspiring to be a designer and to be a part of the fashion industry—and I literally overwhelmed her with all these sketches and concepts of the collection I had created. That was how I landed the opportunity to intern for Elizabeth Sulcer at BlackBook magazine. It really wasn’t my intention to be in an editorial world—I just wanted to be a part of something. I really didn’t know how to break into the industry. When did you officially launch your label? I launched the brand in 2010, and I officially launched the business in 2013. Are you surprised by how quickly your designs put you in the spotlight? To be honest, not really. I never imagined doing anything else. I’ve always dreamed of showing at New York Fashion Week, doing international runway fashion shows, dressing major celebrities, and being a part of really cool and creative concepts. I’m such an overachiever, and I’ve always been a dream chaser. What encouraged you to take a leap and launch your own brand? FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Rihanna
FAN CLUB Celebs love LaQuan Smith for his sexy, form-fitting silhouettes; Rihanna’s Instagram-famous #BBHMM dress; André Leon Talley was an early supporter of the designer.
I didn’t have a way to get into the industry. I was raised that you go to school, you get a degree, and that’s how it works. I felt a little bit lost. I had this dark shadow over my head for literally a year, and my mom was like, “LaQuan, you really have to get it together.” I didn’t want to hear it! But I pulled myself together and said I’m going to start my own label, and I formed an LLP in 2010. I had no money and I was working four jobs: at BlackBook, Papyrus, Banana Republic, and designing clothes on the side. That’s how I was able to form my first presentation. I didn’t have $25,000 to start a collection, and I don’t come from money or connections. I really had to build everything from the ground up. You had a standout audience when you first presented. Did you have any idea so many people would show up? It was a big surprise to me. By way of social media
and living in a melting pot like New York City and dressing everyone that I’ve dressed and rubbing shoulders with everyone, I suppose that people really do love the concept of what we’re creating and what we stand for. It’s unapologetically sexy and beautiful, confident, strong, and different, and I think that there is a huge fan base out there, whether it’s a celebrity or influencer or just a random girl who lives in Crown Heights, Brooklyn. When I see celebrities or major editors come to the shows, it’s always a great feeling. Who were you most surprised to see come to your first show? André Leon Talley from Vogue blew me out of the water. He’s part of the reason why I am successful today. André took me under his wing, not only as a designer, but as a designer of color. That’s something I think people really celebrated. Did he give you great advice? He always tells me to perfect what I do best. I did a collection in 2011, and he said, “LaQuan, you know this collection wasn’t as strong as the first one. There were pieces in that collection that looked like it had just been out of a couture show. The one thing that you need to learn is to do things consistently.” It trained me to do the things that I do best, which is a sexy dress and a good pencil skirt. Where were you when you found out that the Rihanna #BBHMM dress broke Instagram? I was in my studio, and a good friend of mine, who is her hairstylist, sent me an image of her at a private dinner in Brazil. She was wearing a green mesh embroidery dress that we custom designed for her. He was like, “Babe, she wore it tonight.” I was gagging… we were all screaming in the office. The next day I woke up and it was all over Instagram. She tagged me. That was the best thing that could ever happen. Nowadays, it’s hard to get celebrities to say, “OMG, I’m loving my XYZ skirt,” especially for up-and-coming brands. I feel like she is the LaQuan Smith girl. She exudes that confidence, and everything that we stand for. E-comm is a big push for you—where can we find the designs? At laquansmith.com, Church Boutique in L.A., Esti’s in Brooklyn, and Jimmy’s in the Hamptons. Who do you want to see carry your line next? Hands down, Barneys; Neiman Marcus; Colette; Blake in Chicago. I’m looking to bring something to the market that isn’t typically out there. What are you doing differently with your show this season? I am heightening the level and integration of fashion and technology. Working with Samsung has been an extraordinary experience. I’m doing something super special that showcases fashion and an experience in a 360-virtual way. What was your first VR Gear Headset experience like? It was extraordinary. I like scary movies and roller coasters, so experiencing the virtual situation was amazing. My favorite 3-D experience was a basketball court with LeBron [James] and all the boys. I felt like I was on that court with them. You were an early adopter of the direct-toconsumer method—how has that changed things for you? Last season, we did “see now, buy now.” Since then, I’ve definitely seen a growth in my sales and traffic on the website. The 360 concept was something that we wanted to build on. Everyone is constantly looking on their phones or tablets, whether they’re shopping or paying a bill or browsing. ß
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TECHNICAL ELLE-EMENTS The fashion and beauty world’s relationship with technology is forever changing, so it can be hard to keep up! Nikki Ogunnaike, senior fashion editor at elle.com, is here to help make sense of it all with a panel at Samsung 837, where she’ll pick the brains of makeup guru Cassandra Garcia, the Floss Gloss nail polish founders, and Chromat’s Becca McCharen-Tran. Take notes!
First things first: Where are you from and how did you land in fashion media? I’m from Springfield, Virginia, and two weeks after graduating from UVA, I moved to New York City without a job. I got a full-time market assistant position at Vanity Fair. I moved on to InStyle, where I was an editorial assistant and then an assistant editor. I decided I wanted to work online exclusively, so I went to Glamour as the style editor covering fashion and beauty. A position at elle.com opened, and I wanted to work in digital at Hearst, specifically. I e-mailed Leah Chernikoff [editor of elle.com] and asked her to take a meeting with me. And here you are! What’s new at ELLE these days? So much! ELLE is really on the forefront of digital media. Troy Young, our president, is so forwardthinking. We’re doing interviews with everyone from Issa Rae from Insecure to covering trends, political coverage, and women’s issues. We’re seeing where New York Fashion Week takes us and trying to figure out what that will look like in the future. Will you be going to shows this year? I’ll be at many in New York, and then I’ll head to Milan for the entire week, then Paris for half of [Fashion Week]. You’re a major digital force at elle.com—what is at the center of your attention these days? Social media is really important to elle.com and has been since I’ve been here. What separates us from a lot of sites is that we try to stay true and organic to who we are as a brand, but also who the editors are. Gena Kaufman is our social media director, and she works with us to figure out Instagram stories for Fashion Week and other events. She helps us plan FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
takeovers, whether it’s on Snapchat or Instagram Stories or Twitter. Social media has been this place where we can engage our audience, find a new audience, and also drive traffic back to the site. Have you had any recent stories go viral? There was this guy who posted a review of Patti LaBelle’s pies for Walmart, and I was one of the first people to cover the story. I had been watching the video on Facebook. I sent the link to Leah, and she was like, “This is crazy, you should cover it.” That story went viral. Recently, we had [writer] R. Eric Thomas, who has a column here called “Eric Reads the News.” He wrote a story with the headline “Congresswoman Maxine Waters Will Read You Now,” and that went crazy viral. Maxine Waters shared it. I think it had about 100,000 shares last time I looked at it. It was hysterical, but also very astute and critical of what is going on in politics. Who was it that made you want to go into fashion media? It’s twofold. My mom is one of the most well-dressed, nosy people, so I think that I grew up learning how to dress well and ask a lot of questions. Also, my sister Lola Ogunnaike is a fantastic reporter—she’s been on CNN and she worked for The New York Times. You’re moderating a panel at Samsung 837— what’s in store? My aim is to really discuss the way that technology has changed the fashion and beauty industries—the way it has supported it and the challenges it brings. Should you really be on your phone all the time? Is it destroying us or is it helping us? And technology in the fashion and beauty space in terms of activism— how if someone posts pictures on Instagram and
they become the first male to become the face of a beauty brand…would that have happened if we didn’t have Instagram? I don’t know. It’s going to be a pretty wide-ranging discussion. How plugged in are you? I have my cellphone on me at all times, and I generally have my laptops near me—I have two, one for work and another for home. At the top of 2017 I told myself I would try to wean myself off of social media. Looking at it before you go to bed can be disheartening when it’s only news about how our world is falling apart. I’m trying to stop myself from doing that. I’m trying to get into reading paperback books. I am off my Kindle! What do you think about the Samsung 837 space? I went to the CFDA Awards after-party there, which was amazing. I love the place. I think that what they’re doing is cool and innovative. It’s always interesting to see how it transforms from event to event. Where do you see the relationship among beauty, fashion, and technology heading? If I had my way, people would become their own mini activists through fashion and beauty and technology. I think that’s sort of where this industry is heading. Right now, technology has become an interesting tool for people who haven’t been able to or haven’t been given the chance to use their voice before. Where can we follow you on social media? @NikkiOgun, on all my platforms! Where will we find you most? I’m more active on Instagram, but I lurk on Twitter pretty hard. ß
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BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER
@gettyfashion
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KEVIN’s WORLD From backstage at couture to the buzziest parties, Kevin Tachman is on the front lines of fashion.
“Kim Kardashian was like, ‘Look at the monkey!’ ”
“[Rihanna] knows to stop—she wants that shot, too.”
Everybody Loves Kevin Did it really happen if Kevin Tachman wasn’t there to capture it on film? Meet Vogue’s go-to backstage show photographer—and the man behind the monkey! BY EDDIE ROCHE What were you doing before you were a photographer? This is sort of my fifth career, and it’s the one that stuck. I worked on music videos, represented music video directors, and worked in marketing. After that, I went to MTV, which was like a lifelong dream for anyone from my generation. I helped launch its college channel, MTVU. During that time I went to Iceland for my 30th birthday—I bought a camera, and I fell in love with photos. I was friendly with the band Scissor Sisters, and got the opportunity to shoot them behind the scenes, so I quit MTV and went on the road with the circus. How was that? It was boot camp. I was doing what I love with the people I love. I got to know the mechanisms of a tour and how to turn around images every night. I made friends with PR firms, and they encouraged me to try fashion, so I went for it. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What was your first show? Heatherette. I came at the right time. The first thing I shot for Vogue was outside the Alexander McQueen memorial, which I almost missed because I almost didn’t make my train. It all would have been over before it started! Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner are posting images you take of them. Which is good, we like that. If it’s a bad picture, I don’t care whether it’s a famous person or not, no one should see it. We’re there by the grace of their invitation. I’m not here to make anyone look bad. My work is always meant to lift people up. The goal is to be part of the process, not to be the outsider looking in. Why do you think you work so well with the models? [Laughs] Well, I’d like to think that it’s my sparkling personality. When you’re on the road a lot and you see these girls at every show, you grow up with them. Most of the girls who are successful know that it’s a job, but also know that they want to have fun at work. If they don’t want their picture taken, I’m not going to chase them. I treat them like they should be treated. Which models do you have special relationships with? Everyone! I love everyone! I definitely get along with Gigi, Bella, Karlie, Joan, and Kendall. They’re all professionals.
Who were the first ones you shot? In the beginning, I didn’t have to get a lot of the big girls because I was working with The New York Times, but at Vogue, the big girls are important. I’m shy, but saying, “Hey, I’m shooting for Vogue,” doesn’t hurt. They trust you to take a good photo. If it’s a bad photo, that’s on me more than them. I’m very hard on myself, in that sense. Is there a difference between shooting backstage at a men’s show or a women’s show? Beauty is a huge part of the background of women’s shows. So if you take away all the hair and makeup, it’s a less stressful environment. You’re also not walking on gowns and watching your step at men’s shows. I do enjoy the lack of stress at men’s shows. Do you have a passion for fashion? No. I can’t afford it, and I can’t fit in it. When people ask me what I think of a show, my opinion is about how it looked through the camera, or how the set was. Do you wish you’d been working during the supermodel era of the ’90s? Absolutely, but I’m glad I have a digital camera, not film. I shot 156,000 photos last Fashion Month, and I look at every single one. What’s Met Ball day like for you? The access is great. I’ve done The Met Ball six times now. If I’m not nervous, that means I’m not paying attention. The tension is what makes you on-point. Your shot of Rihanna at The Met Ball is iconic— she signed the photo to “My Darling Kevin.” She’s a presence at a lot of fashion events. Obviously, [stylist] Mel Ottenberg made sure we got that shot. She knows to stop—she wants that shot, too. Instagram has made everybody a photographer. Thoughts? There’s room for everybody. What’s challenging is to figure out what makes you unique. The goal is to be more remarkable, to do something that pops. That’s why I don’t put up eight photos a day. You’ve got a stuffed monkey on your camera. Where did that come from? It started when I did a trip to Japan. We thought, what would be super Japanese-y to get the girls’ attention?, as a joke. I then went to New York Fashion Week and North West was at the Alexander Wang show. Kim Kardashian was like, “Look at the monkey!” and North was fixated. When people smile back at that, it’s a great way to go through the day. When I go to the Golden Globes, people who have never given me the time of day say, “That’s genius!” ß
ta c h m a n : f i l e p m ot wa r y; c o u r t e s y
“The goal is to be part of the process, not to be the outsider looking in.”
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THE INFLUENCER’S INFLUENCER Beloved fashion bloggers and social media stars are doing more than just sitting front and Instagraming their outfits. They’re becoming full-fledged entrepreneurs with clothing lines, brand ambassadorships, book deals, TV gigs, and beyond. So who’s influencing them? Meet Jennifer Powell, Next Model Management’s Head of Special Bookings.
Who was the first influencer you signed at Next? I started nine years ago with Rumi Neely from FashionToast. She was directed to us by a photographer, and I’m still representing her now. How cool is that? It wasn’t like I set out to represent bloggers—that wasn’t a real job then—but rather we saw this amazing girl who was making amazing imagery and was selling out product. I’ve been an agent for 18 years and have had relationships with brands, so we tried to figure out, based on model rates, how much each post was worth and started making money doing this. It was super organic. Who were some of the models you worked with? We started with Arizona Muse and Samantha Gradoville here in Los Angeles. I still represent Lucky Blue Smith, Pyper America, and the other Smith siblings. What do you look for when signing a new client? My first question to the talent is “Do you really need me yet?” You don’t need me until you really need me, and we’re day-to-day pitching and hustling and creating businesses around the platform you've already created. The talent can't only engage digitally with the brand—they need to be the face of the brand, and be able to talk on behalf of it. And we need to create their own brand, too. I need to think I could kill it with this kid in every single aspect of the business. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
How many influencers are you representing now? Ten to 15 on a day-to-day, traditional blogger/ influencer basis, like Danielle Bernstein, Rumi [Neely], Julie Sariñana from Sincerely Jules, Kristina Bazan, Jennifer Grace from Native Fox, and Helena Bordon. But then I have a lot of crossover people, like Langley Fox Hemingway and Caroline Vreeland. I like to think of it as people who do cool s**t and can translate to fashion and beauty well. What was pitching bloggers like, initially? A lot of fast talking on my part! And a lot of education as to why they were paying this amount of money for this talent for them to do this sort of engagement. Which deals make you really proud? I just got back from Milan—we had seven influencers in the Dolce & Gabbana show, which was kind of major: Lucky Blue and all his sisters, Brandon Lee, Levi Dylan, and Jack Guinness. Next did the first traditional L’Oréal ambassadorship for Kristina [Bazan], a talent who started as a digital influencer. Danielle [Bernstein] and her Maybelline project last Fashion Week was another. And Self Service recently shot five of my influencers in Paris. Which of your clients has transformed the most? Danielle. She came to me three to four years ago as, like, a kid. She not only has hustled in her business but has started multiple businesses like Second Skin Overalls and Archive Shoes using the platform of
WeWoreWhat. She’s also started investing in tech, and she speaks. Getting her on Forbes’ 30 under 30 list was really meaningful. What makes a good influencer today? Consistency in posting and constant creativity in making beautiful content—content is the most important thing. Also, just doing their own thing, forging their own path. Any tips for aspiring social media stars? What I learned from the Viners is that they all supported one another—that’s one thing I haven’t necessarily seen in the fashion blogging/social media space, but it could be helpful. Also, I know it’s a lot, but it’s important to post daily. Instagram, InstaStories, and Snapchat are most important to be active on. Are blogs over? I don’t think so. A lot of blogs are turning into media companies and informational sites and are less about outfit posts, like The Blonde Salad and Man Repeller. Is there room for new talent? The big names are going to remain important, but what’s been interesting lately is the rise of the micro-blogger—bloggers who have 150K and below followers on Instagram. People are starting to talk about how they are moving the needle with a more concentrated audience. Still, consistency and quality beautiful content? People can’t argue with that. ß
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WHICH BEAUTIES SHOWED UP IN THE SAME DRESS?
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DINNER AT THE BEATRICE!
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