FEBRUARY 18, 2016
FASHION MAGIC
FROM
RODARTE MICHAEL KORS BRANDON MAXWELL AND MORE…
DARK
ANGEL And other mythical beauties from the New York runway
CHICMoments
HEARD
“BRANDON AND I BOTH FLEW IN LAST NIGHT! HE WAS THERE FOR THE [GRAMMYS] DAVID BOWIE TRIBUTE TO [ACT AS A LIAISON] WITH MARC JACOBS’ PEOPLE, AND TO DIRECT AND STYLE ME.” —LADY GAGA
Nicola Formichetti and Giovanna Battaglia
BRANDON MAXWELL
Lady Gaga and Brandon Maxwell
Carine Roitfeld
For his second showing at New York Fashion Week, Brandon Maxwell took over the Monkey Bar for a salon experience that wasn’t entirely unlike the affairs presented by Yves Saint Laurent in the ’70s. Editors, buyers, and front-row types like Stephen Gan, Adam Selman, Sebastian Faena, Carine Roitfeld, and Terry Richardson took in the spectacular clothes from their perches in chairs and booths. NYFW has found its shiniest new star.
Linda Fargo
Terry Richardson
Amy Astley
LOVEFEST!
Inez van Lamsweerde, Vinoodh Matadin, and Gabriele Hackworthy
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Linda Fargo wants to wear it all! There are no words! That is a dream come true. Were you nervous? I was so nervous that I was sick upstairs with my dog, alone in the room with my two best friends. But you know what? I just looked around at all the people who were there supporting me, and I felt like this is why I did this in the first place. I want to make those people proud. These people have given me a career; they’ve given me a life. They’ve given me all of this. I hope that I make them proud. You thanked Amy Astley for giving you your first job. What was it? She gave me my first editorial to style on my own—I think it was with Rita Ora. Let me tell you, that’s a good person. Lady Gaga even flew back right after the Grammys to support! Of course she did! That’s what best friends do. Look, Inez [van Lamsweerde] is here!
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HEARD
“THE SMOKE DIDN’T SCARE ME, BUT IT’S FUN TO SEE EVERYONE WONDER IF SOMETHING IS GOING TO GO WRONG.”
HEARD
Editor in Chief,
“A CHEESE PRETZEL.”
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Design Director Jill Serra Wilde Fashion Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Designer Magdalena Long Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jean Borrie Contributing Copy Editors Joseph Manghise, Cynthia Puleo Imaging Specialists Neal Clayton, RJ Hamilton, George Maier Editorial Assistant Kassidy Silva
—VANESSA FRIEDMAN, on how she keeps up with her schedule despite getting only five hours sleep, at Rodarte
—actress TESSA THOMPSON at Rodarte
SCENE
Several editors were a little concerned that Rodarte’s elaborate set at Center548 was on fire. It was merely smoking. smoking. Oscar nom Jennifer Jason Leigh arrived seconds before the start, and her front-row seat was in tact. Next up for Julia Restoin Roitfeld Roitfeld?? The Big Apple Circus avec daughter Romy.. “I haven’t been to the circus in so long!” enthused Roitfeld, who will be sitting front row.
TALKING SHOP! WITH HAMISH BOWLES
Where do you store your clothes? I sometimes give to the Lighthouse International POSH Store and Housing Works, but anything I consider remotely good, I hold on to. I store them in the Greater New York area. In fact, there are four different spaces for my collection of fashion and couture. It’s about 4,000 pieces!
SURVIVALIST of THE DAILY: INSTAGRAM’S EVA CHEN
COVER TALK!
Most faithful friends: Hillary Kerr, Jane Herman, Leigh Belz, Danielle Nussbaum, Susan Cernek, and I were assistants at Elle together. For the past 13 years, every Fashion Week, we get together for pizza and a few too many bottles of wine. Most memorable show: The first time I went to Marc Jacobs. He did bleachers, and I was sitting all the way in the back, and it was the best moment. When you’re an assistant, being in the room is as exciting as being front row. Longevity plan: Sleep and omega-3 fatty acids. I told my interior decorators, a duo called McGrath II, to make our bedroom look like the inside of a cashmere sweater. They took me seriously—I feel like I’m sleeping in a cloud.
WITH VIRGINIE MOUZAT
What’s new at Vanity Fair France? We’re getting better. Everyone is jealous. We’re a small country with lots of style. Do you read Graydon’s VF? Of course! We produce 99 percent on our own, with some stuff from VF U.S. and W magazine. Who sells well for you? Dead icons. It’s the same for VF U.S. Legends like Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly…. Maybe lasting legends have more value.
Brandusa Niro
17 SECONDS!
WITH KIRSTEN DUNST Thoughts on the show? It’s so emotional for me, because they are two of my best friends. Did you think the set was on fire at the beginning? Not at all!
Mark Tevis Publisher
Fashion & Luxury Goods Director Chloe Worden Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Digital Director Daniel Chivu Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Midwest Kathy Burke Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
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WHAT ARE YOU WEARING?
1. SHIONA TURINI: “Double Valentino jackets, Citizens of Humanity tank, Dior boots and bag, French Connection skirt. Today, I’m going commando.” 2. NICOLE MILLER: “Dennis Basso coat, Nicole Miller pants and necklace, Kenzo boots, Balenciaga bag, and Commando pantyhose.” 3. DEREK BLASBERG: “Burberry suit, Prada shirt, tie, and shoes, Berluti socks, and
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6. GIOVANNA BATTAGLIA: [Laughs hysterically] “Prada coat, Valentino boots, the Elder Statesman sweater, a McQueen bag.” 7. JULIA RESTOIN ROITFELD: “Rodarte, Wolford tights, Victoria’s Secret underwear.” 8. JESSICA DIEHL: “COS, Valentino, Céline pants, Gucci shoes. I don’t carry a purse; I keep my cigarettes in my pocket.”
Calvin Klein underwear. Who makes your underwear?” 4. VANESSA FRIEDMAN: “Alaïa, and my tights are Spanx.” 5. HAMISH BOWLES: “My watch is a Rolex, the coat is Burberry, the suit is from Lars Nilsson for Bill Blass, the shirt, socks, and tie are Charvet, the cuff links are by my friend Konstantin Kakanias’ mother, and George Esquivel shoes.”
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The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste. 301, New York, NY 10107.
ON THE COVER:
Angel Rutledge at Rodarte. Photographed by Firstview. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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CATCHING UP! WITH RALPH RUCCI
Jennifer Hudson
You’re popular! Because I’m old! You had a break from the schedule, so how does it feel to be back? It’s refreshing because I had a moment to think about what I’ve done and where I’d like to go. I can’t apply myself to the rules and the schedules. I want to do it my way, as I’ve always done. Was this collection inspired by your first collection? It’s all an evolution from where I left off. It’s everything that’s mysterious and intriguing and inspiring to me. It addresses the woman that I want to dress. She’s intellectual. A little crazy. How did you come up with name RR331? Years ago, I had the name Chado on the label—it was a Japanese tea ceremony. You need to take 331 steps before you arrive there.
Olivia Munn and Michael Kors
SCENE
MICHAEL KORS Ruth Bell
Michael Kors showed a killer collection at Spring Studios. • Dennis Basso’s show at Moynihan Station had so many splendid furs that some showgoers joked about rushing backstage to steal one. Carol Alt would never. “I can’t even take a pencil,” she confessed.
HEARD Riley Keough and Blake Lively
“I’M NOT REALLY A FUR PERSON, BUT ONCE, IN ASPEN, HE SAID I SHOULD BUY A COAT. DENNIS PULLED THIS OUT, AND I BOUGHT IT ON THE SPOT.” —NICOLE MILLER Kendall Jenner
BIANNUAL MOMENT!
WITH DENNIS BASSO
Let’s talk collection! It’s about beautiful women walking into the woods dressed to the nines in Dennis Basso in untamed furs, beautiful gowns, and they stumble upon a big manor house in the middle of the woods filled with handsome men. Isn’t that Fire Island? Exactly! When’s the last time you went camping in the woods? When I was in the Boy Scouts. I stayed one night. It wasn’t my kind of group outing. But I like to camp it up!
LOOK of THE DAILY WITH MICHAEL KORS
What do you recommend? The Color Purple. I’m not just saying that because Jennifer Hudson and Cynthia Erivo were here. I’m looking forward to seeing Shuffle Along with Audra McDonald. I’m happy to have Claire Danes coming back to the stage at the Public Theater. Waitress is coming soon. I saw the workshop and their first run in Boston. Fun to see you at Alan Cumming’s show at Carnegie Hall a few weeks ago! It was fabulous. I’d go to Carnegie Hall to read the paper!
Samantha Barry and Anna Wintour
Aviator sunglasses,
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WITH SAMANTHA BARRY Do you live in America? I live in New York, but I run social media for CNN worldwide. We thought you were someone else! No worries. Are you friends with Michael? I’ve met him! He’s lovely. I know one of Michael Kors’ designers. You have a good seat! [Laughs] I know!
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HEARD
“I NEVER THINK OF MYSELF ANYMORE. I HAVE TO RUN MY KIDS TO SCHOOL. I LOST 40 POUNDS.” —ANNE SLOWEY at Michael Kors
PROMOTION
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MODEL Mogul STAR FACTOR Clockwise from top: Stella Tennant photographed by Mario Testino for Vogue; Natalia Vodianova photographed by Patrick Demarchelier; Linda Evangelista photographed by Patrick Demarchelier for Harper’s Bazaar; Alessandra Ambrosio photographed by Mert & Marcus for LOVE; Doutzen Kroes photographed by Mario Testino for Vogue Paris.
THE DNA TEST The model business is part of David Bonnouvrier’s, well, DNA. But it was an ill-fated partnership with a rival agency that sent him to New York, where he launched DNA, now one of the industry’s most powerful players.
You didn’t intend to follow your father into the model business, correct? My parents separated and I grew up with my mom, not my dad [Jerome Bonnouvrier who worked with his aunt Catherine Harle at her Paris agency in the ’60s before founding his own]. My first job was at French Elle, during the mid 1980s when Elle was one of the most powerful publications in the world. I was assisting the model editor Odile Saron, a legendary lady who discovered Claudia Schiffer and Estelle Lefébure. It was the early days of Christy Turlington, FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Renée Simonsen, and Naomi Campbell, and the heyday of photographers like [Gilles] Bensimon, Oliviero Toscani, Hans Feurer, and Bill King. Carine Roitfeld was also working at Elle, and everyone was always going on about Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, who had just left to go to Vogue. You and Carlyne became very close friends. Carlyne has always been very independent, talented, and smart. She is just Carlyne, no games, and she’s loyal. I remember seeing a story in 1988 she shot for Vogue with Steven Meisel and Cordula [Reyer], who was standing next to a Rolls-Royce in front of the Beverly Hills Hotel. I thought, Now that’s the real deal. What was your next break? One of the Elle editors left to start the equivalent of French Lei, but the title did not translate, so it became Glamour, which at the time had a very commercial resonance with the photographers we were trying to use—[Peter] Lindbergh, [Paolo] Roversi, and so forth. Our office was next to Place du PalaisBourbon, home of the Vogue studio where legends like Norman Parkinson and Helmut Newton shot. We used to see Guy Bordin having drinks at the café next
COURTESY
to Condé Nast. He had fallen out of trend at Vogue, but ultimately 20 years later, and after his death, he became one of the most referenced photographers. With your career taking off, how did you end up working with your dad? I was fascinated by filmmakers and was about to join La Pac, which represented Jean-Paul Goude, David Bailey, and Ridley Scott. They were producing these legendary fashion films and Chanel fragrance ads when my father called and said, “I have an opening in the agency. Will you come and work with me?” I said yes. It took me nine years of therapy to get to the bottom of that. Why did you move to New York? I always wanted to leave Paris—it’s too small and contrived. It was the early ’90s, and Wilhelmina in New York wanted an agency in Paris, so we made a deal with Dieter Esch. It was a disaster, and I resigned after six months. I tried to start another agency, and although it never took off, it was sort of the pre-DNA. I love the American spirit—“success is fraught with failures.” You got it right in the end. The Wilhelmina episode marked the end of the agency in Paris, so technically, we had nothing. I had no working visa, credit card, or checkbook but figured I didn’t know how to do anything else. There were some big players here, and Elite was at the peak of its glory. You had Ford, and there was a new wave with Women Management, so we started DNA. Everybody can make a firework and have their 15 minutes, but with the exception of Ford, the biggest issues agencies have is lasting. Did you really start with one girl? Annie Morton was the George Washington of DNA. She was a beautiful blonde from Pennsylvania—she made the cover of British Vogue and mapped us. We had a dream list of girls that we hoped to one day represent. Then Elite imploded, which we knew was a matter of time, and we got them. And then along came Karolina Kurkova? Everyone was going to Brazil, so we started looking at Eastern Europe. We discovered Karolina in Milan. She was almost 15, and there was that smile, the legs, the freshness. We bought her to New York, and eight months later she was on the cover of American Vogue. Agencies were saying, “They’ll have her for 10 minutes.” One aggressively tried to poach her, but she ultimately stayed. Don’t all agencies poach from one another? Some agencies were built on poaching. DNA has an incredible roster of very successful models, without reaching critical mass, like some of our competitors. Our strength lies in our ability to spot and develop our own talents from the beginning of their careers. Landing Natalia must have been pretty major. It still is. Natalia [Vodianova] came in 1999, and when we met her, she was a very young girl but very driven. Now, she’s an incredibly accomplished supermother and businesswoman. We’ve fought many battles together, and I consider her a dear friend. She’s a special person, and great to work with—one of the most fun and professional models out there. She has an incredibly graceful ability to go with the flow, which
WATCH THIS FACE From top: David Bonnouvrier at DNA’s headquarters in a Chelsea warehouse. Middle: Imaan Hammam (left) and Rianne van Rompaey. Bottom: Julia Nobis (left) and Mica Arganaraz, photographed by Hadar Pitchon.
is very rare in this industry. Doutzen [Kroes] is similar. While we’re on a first-name basis, tell us about Linda. Linda [Evangelista] underlined and defined modeling to its core. There will never be another one like her. What makes a good agency? Integrity. All the decisions we make at DNA are in a strange way comparable to running a hedge fund. We take a long-term calculated risk on the basis it’ll pay handsomely in time. Our concept is the model is our client. They don’t work for us, we don’t work for them—we work together. What is the ultimate editorial for you? An Italian Vogue story with Steven [Meisel] is a must. American Vogue is always a great moment for a model, and a French Vogue cover is always beautiful. The digital space has been producing some very interesting and creative new types of content for our clients, adding a new dimension to their print careers. The publishing industry got distracted by the race to conquer digital—for which they were all very late—and that triggered an interesting phenomenon. Editorial stories in magazines were once the only way for a model to raise her profile. Now, they have some ability to do that themselves by engaging their audience directly through their social media.
What did you think of Grace Coddington’s decision to step down? She has been at Vogue for a long time and probably wants to monetize her talent, diversify, and collaborate with the designers she’s always loved and respected outside the scope and constraint of a publication. It’s certainly not the end of Grace. Grace has also been, all along, a true supporter of models. Who are your ultimate photographers? Steven [Meisel] has never done one wrong picture, Patrick [Demarchelier] is classic, Bruce [Weber] captures youth, and Peter [Lindbergh] for romance, to name a few. Every time a young model booked her first shoot with Mr. [Irving] Penn, we gave her several of his books as a gift from the agency, so he could sign them on set. Arthur [Elgort] brought a lightness and sense of humor to fashion, and his girls were always like my dream date. We suggest that all our young models buy and read Models Manual. Then there’s a new generation of talented young photographers. I really like Jamie Hawkesworth’s sensibility. Which new faces are you excited about? We are always trying to discover that special girl, but sometimes it’s the girl you don’t spot who comes right out of left field. Imaan [Hammam] is on her way to becoming the new definition of ethnicity. Rianne van Rompaey is going to be one of the classics of all time, and Julia Bergshoeff is an extraordinary beauty. We just started representing Georgia Howorth. She has the DNA of DNA and is the daughter of Jeny Howorth, one of my favorite models of all time. DNA is not for everyone. We are attracted to a very specific and unique type of personality and beauty. In the early days, a very famous model contacted us through her attorney—she wanted to switch representation. She billed in a month what the agency billed in a year, which was very tempting, as we were starving. But I turned it down, because I didn’t want to send a message that we’ll take anything and everything for money. What advice do you have for aspiring models and their pushy stage moms? I encourage girls to stay in school. We also do a pretty good job of demystifying that modeling is not the highest-paid part-time job in the world. It’s a full-time commitment and that requires an extreme amount of discipline, a work ethic, and some level of creativity. Once you’re on set with a major photographer and stylist, there’s a script—a story they want to tell through the clothes, and models need to be able to play that role. Do aspiring models just walk into the agency? We have scouts, a global network of agencies, but we get calls from moms and walk-ins. The best walk-in was Agyness Deyn. She bypassed the front desk, as the receptionist wouldn’t let her in. Did your dad give you any advice? I did my own thing, but he was proud. Dad was an innovator—if he said, “Put on your space suit, we’re going to scout on Mars,” we’d actually open the closet and say, “But there’s no space suit.” He was so convincing. We had some epic moments, and some epic battles. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
RUNWAYReport
FINE ROMANCE Heart-pounding looks from Rodarte, Michael Kors, and the season’s hottest newcomer, Brandon Maxwell. BY ASHLEY BAKER & PAIGE REDDINGER
RODARTE
FIRSTVIEW
Over the past decade, Rodarte’s fashion shows have been transcendent moments of reprieve from the overcrowded New York calendar. The smoke, the neon, and the spellbinding models in their magnificent finery will romance even the hardest hearts, and for those 20 minutes, the Mulleavys reflection of the world is the only place to be. Kate and Laura Mulleavy are sensitive creators whose best work offers incisive commentary on culture and provides the stuff of dreams. For most, Rodarte’s four- and five-figure wares are only an object of lust, unless you want a T-shirt with the brand’s name on it, which some people are more than happy to settle for. (Sixteen variations, starting at $117, are currently offered at Shopbop.) There’s nothing wrong with high luxury, of course, and the fall collection—ruffled leather jackets, floral paillettes, Gothic lace dresses—will give Rodarte’s rarefied fan base another excuse to brandish their Centurion cards. Imagine how truly awesome the streets would look if this magic were just a tiny bit more democratic.
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MICHAEL KORS
FIRSTVIEW
“There’s always been this cast of characters,” said Michael Kors of the inspo behind his Fall collection. “Everyone from Lee Radziwill to Diana Ross to Kate Moss to Blake Lively…women who are stylish understand mixings things up.” Kors gave us a lot to work with, pairing feathery denim with ’60s-style peacoats and mixing a slimmeddown take on a sequined harem pant with a button-up, sweater, and camel jacket. The floral motif manifested in groovy fur jackets and stoles. On the accessory front, chunky loafers and round-toe heels are paired winningly with structured chain bags. As Kors toasts his collection’s 35th anniversary, his ideas are feeling fresher than ever.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
RUNWAYReport
BRANDON MAXWELL
FIRSTVIEW
Sophomore slump? Not even remotely. Brandon Maxwell’s second collection had buckets of sophisticated polish, the kind we’re used to seeing from the senior set. Maxwell took over the Monkey Bar for the affair, and his impeccably tailored, black-and-white evening options looked right at home in the retro glam venue. Cigarette pants, anyone? Maxwell’s pair beautifully with a split peplum top or a shapely turtleneck with mega sleeves, although they would also mix and mingle well with quotidian tops. A sculptural tuxedo is a big win for those of us who can barely stomach the thought of another bedazzled ball gown. Expect to see these looks selling out in their entirety at Bergdorf Goodman before they even hit the sales floor. Betty, please do call the minute they get in.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Style Is Not What You Wear, But How You Wear It
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ANNA K Fall/Winter 2016
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OPENING CEREMONY Fall/Winter 2016
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK The Face Studio Master Strobe Illuminating Face Stick, available this June at Maybelline.com.
F I R S T V I E W ( 2 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ; C O U R T E S Y
STAR DUST
With a nod to Syd Mead’s futuristic design work (think Blade Runner), lashes of glitter were swept across a clean face to evoke the idea of a cyborg’s metal peeking through the skin.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
BACKSTAGE REPORTShows by Maybelline New York LRS STUDIO Fall/Winter 2016
LIP NOIR
GET THE LOOK: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK The Loaded Bolds Lip Color in Pitch Black and Lip Studio Shine Shot Glassy Topcoat, both available in June at Maybelline.com.
It was a totally ’80s New Romantics flashback this season, with black lips and matching liner dominating pale, porcelain skin.
PROMOTION FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
PARTY GIRL
BAJA EAST Fall/Winter 2016
A combination of fierce eyes and glowing skin were used to re-create a rocker chick who’s set on chasing the dawn. Lashes got a heavy coat of the Colossal Spider Lash Mascara in Glam Black (available in May) and the inner rims of eyes were then lined with Eye Studio Lasting Drama Waterproof Gel Pencil in Sleek Onyx, with smudges of Color Sensation Lip Liner in Plum.
B FA N YC . C O M ; F I R S T V I E W ; C O U R T E S Y
PRO TIP: Add a glossy layer of Baby Lips Balm in Quenched on top of lids for a pearly sheen.
“SHE’S THE GIRL WHO EVEN AFTER THE PARTY IS OVER ISN’T READY TO CALL IT QUITS. SHE PUTS ON SOME GLOSS AND SHE’S OFF TO THE NEXT THING.” —YADIM, Maybelline New York Global Makeup Artist
PROMOTION
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
BEAUTYX Style
MANE MOGUL
Dalal Moussa, CEO of Obliphica Professional, is building a beauty empire on her winning hair-care line, thanks to its miracle Seaberry ingredient and her unique marketing savvy. The San Antonio–based entrepreneur also happens to have a taste for luxury. What do boss ladies in Texas desire? Dior, Dior, and more Dior! BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY TASHI PALMER
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
THE PRODUCTS Obliphica Professional’s Seaberry-infused line leaves even the most damaged hair feeling silky smooth. SEABERRY HAIR MASK
Take a tip from Dalal and use this hair mask as your daily conditioner and you will notice instant results. Some men have even begun buying the product for shaving.
SEABERRY SERUM
Unlike most hair serums, Obliphica Professional’s lightweight formula doesn’t weigh down your hair or leave a greasy residue. Plus, it smells divine and is as beneficial to the skin as it is to your hair.
SEABERRY SHAMPOO
This miracle shampoo cleanses the scalp of impurities and controls flyaways and static, leaving hair more smooth than a straight iron. UV filters protect your hair for longerlasting color.
COURTESY
What is your earliest fashion memory? When I was about 7 years old, my mother worked in a chic clothing store. I think my instinct for fashion was born at that very moment. How has your style evolved over the years? It seems like I have learned to say no to pieces that I don’t love. It has to be unique and memorable to live in my closet. What is your favorite recent purchase? A black and blue mink fur vest with a built-in patentleather corset that walked the Dior runway in Tokyo. What is the most prized possession in your wardrobe? Honestly, because fashion is always evolving, so is my favorite piece in my wardrobe. Ultimately, I think a woman’s best accessory is her hair. That is why my products are my prized possessions. Where do you shop in San Antonio? And elsewhere? I do most of my shopping with someone I met in Houston three years ago. He has unofficially become my stylist and is also the manager of the most amazing Dior boutique that just opened in the Houston’s River Oaks District. He goes to great lengths to hand-select the best of what Dior has to offer and sends them to my doorstep or wherever I may be if I’m having a fashion emergency! He knows my style and even reserves pieces for me immediately after they walk the runway in Paris. With him, my fashion needs are more than taken care of. What brands do you love to wear? Dior, say no more! What designers do you admire? Raf Simons, of course…sad to see him leave Dior, but
he set up the next person for success. Tom Ford… sexy is always fashionable. What do you have too much of in your wardrobe? Black. It’s a timeless habit to kick. What current trends do you love? I really love the lace and pleat trend that’s making its way back into the mainstream. Lace can be sexy and sophisticated at the same time. The pleat look has the potential to bring about contemporary styles. Which ones do you hate? While I can appreciate some aspects of the ’70s theme, like fringe, I’m not certain I’m on board with the tie-dye trend. I’ll have to wait and see how the fashion world elevates it. You have to seriously make me a believer. What is something you are lusting after but haven’t splurged on yet? Well, I wouldn’t be me if I didn’t mention that David Webb Jewelry stands out as the purchase I would love to continue to splurge on. His Ancient World collection is exquisite. Do you have any favorite current hair trends? My favorites are the medium-length hairstyles that are increasing in popularity. You’ll see lobs, soft waves, and blunt bangs as a go-to hairstyle. What new products can we expect from Obliphica Professional? At the heart of Obliphica Professional’s formula is the powerful super fruit, Seaberry. As a result, we have integrated Seaberry into a luxurious styling collection of professional hair care. We will be proudly launching our innovative styling products in April 2016, which will include a Seaberry Thickening Mousse, which creates texture, boosts body, and restores moisture; Seaberry Quick Dry Volume Spray to boost your style and create tousled, amplified textured finish; and Seaberry Multi-Task Hairspray, which enhances natural movement with long-lasting flexible hold. How has the brand been expanding? It’s an exciting year for Obliphica Professional. In 2015, we launched in more than 2,000 stores between April and November. Now the work begins, servicing our partners and meeting their needs. The next phase of business will be a concentration in Ibero-America. What’s the Obliphica motto? Expect perfection! ß
BFA.COM
FOLLOW US:
@BFA
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CHICSpree
SHOPPING PROMOTION
CHARLES DAVID
Need a shoe fix before spring hits? Don’t we all! Try Charles David’s array of wear-with-everything basics, including colorful pumps and strappy wedges.
CHARLES DAVID Hello shoe in tobacco ($199.95) CHARLES BY CHARLES DAVID Jaunt shoe in black/ nude ($99)
CHARLES BY CHARLES DAVID Jeeze shoe in mocha ($99)
CHARLES DAVID Zianna shoe in dark brown ($150)
CHARLES DAVID Caterina shoe in cork ($230)
CHARLES DAVID Glam shoe in bronze/latte ($129)
CHARLES DAVID Pella shoe in green/brown ($195)
Available at charlesdavid.com FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CHARLES DAVID Adament shoe in copper ($119)
COURTESY
CHARLES BY CHARLES DAVID Arlington wedge in camel ($99)
Real-world education means value-added employees. Berkeley College graduates enter the workforce with more than a typical classroom education. Programs developed with input from industry experts. Outstanding faculty. Access to top fashion industry resources. That’s what the Fashion Marketing and Management program at Berkeley College is all about. In fact, our time-tested approach to education is so effective that leading companies and organizations hire Berkeley grads year after year.
Call 800-446-5400 ext. BFF, visit BerkeleyCollege.edu or email info@BerkeleyCollege.edu
Find us @BerkeleyCollege • #BerkeleyCollege
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“Through the Fashion Program at Berkeley College, I have met knowledgeable professors who emphasize the skills needed to succeed. I have also had opportunities to connect with industry professionals. Now, I am ready to chase my dreams.” Kaja Berg (left) Fashion Marketing and Management Student P4597-8.2014
Though New York Fashion Week is wrapping up, the show isn’t over just yet! Before you pack up and jet to London, there’s one more stop here: Coterie, the most fashionable fête on the trade show circuit, at the Jacob K. Javits Center from February 22–24. Here, a preview of the chic set showing this year.
COTERIE PREVIEW HAUTE HIPPIE HOUSE
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
PROMOTION
COURTESY
BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER
RAMY BROOK
ICB
DESIGN HISTORY
AUTUNNO SHEARLING Emre Oksan, founder
HAUTE HIPPIE HOUSE Cady Vaccaro, designer
What are we going to see at Coterie? We’re going to be showing two fall collections. Fall One, called “Dangerous Woman,” kind of sets the tone for where we are. It’s got a slightly Western/Americana feel, and is based around Belle Starr, a famous American outlaw known as the Bandit Queen.
RAMY BROOK Ramy Sharp, designer
ASHLEY B
Describe your brand in three words… Sexy, sophisticated, and timeless. If you weren’t a designer, you’d be… A dancer (or at least I would try to be)! What was your favorite subject in school? Math, if you can believe it! I like how clearcut it is—you’re either right or you’re wrong (but of course I like to be right). What have you loved from Fashion Week so far? Kanye West—I love how he mixes fashion and music
ICB
Maika Nakaoka, brand manager
Who would you love to model the Fall/ Winter collection? Emilie Evander from Wilhelmina models. What’s your staple beauty product this winter? Jelly rich in gelatin and coconut oil for skin! Favorite fashion icon of all time? Cliché, but Kate Moss.
Can you share a favorite Coterie moment? When I realized the new buyer that just placed an order, whom we had a nice chat with, was actually Carrie Fisher, Princess Leia…of course, after she left!
MAGASCHONI
Elisa Miller, CEO and founder
Describe your brand in three words… Luxury, luxury, luxury! Fashion icon of all time? Dries Van Noten. Tips for staying warm but chic... Layering cashmere on top of cashmere!
NOIRION
Onyx Purviance, designer
Design icon of all time? Christian Dior. What did you love to study in school? I wanted to be a meteorologist and studied lots of science. Career highlight? Creating my children’s wear collection from beginning to end.
AUTUNNO SHEARLING
LANCASTER PARIS
Kasandra Carlson, SVP sales and marketing
Describe your brand in three words… PUR (one of our new leather groups in the collection!), affordable, and luxury. What’s a lesser-known fact about the brand? Lancaster Paris has been well-established throughout Europe for almost 30 years, and has freestanding stores in Europe.
ASHLEY B
Sun Choi, creative director
What’s new this season? We incorporated more color into the Who would you love to see model this collection. collection? Do you have a hidden talent? From past to present, we would love to see I must admit I make one mean Moscow Helena Christensen, Olivia Palermo, and Gigi Mule. Hadid in Design History. Current obsession… What’s a favorite beauty trend this Bikram yoga. I love the heat and I love yoga, season? so the two combined make an excellent Denim blue eyeliner. recipe for an obsession. A go-to piece to keep warm? An amazing-looking shearling jacket. Fashion icon of all time... Jane Birkin, circa 1975.
DESIGN HISTORY
LANCASTER PARIS
NOIRION
MAGASCHONI FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
SAMIRA 13 JEWELRY
NORMA KAMALI
POLOGEORGIS FURS
COTERIE PREVIEW FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
PROMOTION
LIEBESKIND BERLIN
WOODEN SHIPS BY PAOLA BUENDÍA
LEO & SAGE
NORMA KAMALI
LEO & SAGE
What’s new this season? Merging a wardrobe with active, work, dresses, swim, and coats to fit into any part of a woman’s life—going to the gym and also work, lunch or dinner, but never looking like you were at or going to the gym. Who are some style icons? Dancers. They can take a few pieces of clothing and wear them in so many interesting ways while folding them and packing them in a small, compact satchel.
Tips for staying warm but chic… I’m originally from the South, and even after 15 years in NYC I’m still always cold. Layering is key—from underpinnings to warm sweaters. If you weren’t a designer, you’d be… I always thought I would be an architect. I enjoy working three-dimensionally. Just like clothing, it would be amazing to see a project from concept to reality.
Norma Kamali, designer and founder
SAMIRA 13 JEWELRY
Samira Sizdahkhani, founder and designer
What’s new this season? Rose-gold fringe. Favorite place to travel? My hometown—Potomac, Maryland— especially in autumn. Guilty pleasure? Thin Mint Girl Scout Cookies. Who would you love to see model this collection? Karl Lagerfeld.
POLOGEORGIS FURS
Daniel Forest, sales manager PLANET
What’s new this season? Light colors, revamped statement pieces, and sports elements. Who’s someone you’d love to see model this collection? Carmen Dell’Orefice. What have you loved from Fashion Week so far? Monse! Monse! Monse!
WOODEN SHIPS BY PAOLA BUENDÍA Paola Buendía, designer and co-owner
Pauline Nakios, founder and creative director
LIEBESKIND BERLIN Elaine Sugimura, CEO
What’s new this season? We have a new creative director, Adrian Margelist, with a totally new vision. What will we see at Coterie? We’re focusing on this theme of the power of woman. What’s a lesser-known fact about the brand? All our items are made in Europe and Italy, with a big push on footwear.
M.I.N.N.E.
Jack Wong, creative director
Other than designing, how else do you exercise creativity? Painting and studying art history. Fashion icon of all time? Presently, Lady Gaga; from the past, Katharine Hepburn. If you weren’t a designer, you’d be… An interior designer.
M.I.N.N.E.
JOCELYN
Jocelyn Gordon, designer
What’s new this season? J.M i l i t a r y by Jocelyn. If you weren’t a designer, you’d be… A comedic actress and singer. Favorite career highlight? Seeing Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid rock my pieces!
What’s new this season? A greater emphasis on our lightweight knits, which can be tucked like shirts. Jiro Kodate, designer Any plans to fight the winter blues? A blend of travel: Colorado, Bali, and Madrid Describe your brand in three words… Genderless, ageless, borderless. with short trips to NYC in between. A favorite hobby? Playing soccer. What do you look forward to at Coterie TEAM JAPAN each year? Being in New York City!
TEAM JAPAN
PLANET COURTESY
Ellen Leselrod, designer
What’s new this season? Vegan lightweight leather jackets that fold up for traveling. Any Coterie traditions? We always serve Stew Leonard’s cookies. Do you have a hidden talent? I have a green thumb—I grow incredible, exotic orchids.
JOCELYN
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
NICOLE MILLER
COURTESY
COTERIE PREVIEW FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
PROMOTION
AGENT R.E.D.
APRILMARIN
TART COLLECTION NICOLE MILLER
Nicole Miller, designer and founder What’s new this season? Lots of outerwear, shearlings, and new blouses and romantic dresses. Who’s the one person you would have loved to see wearing your collection? Grace Slick—the collection has a very ’70s boho vibe and would have suited her style. What was your favorite subject in school? Calculus and physics were my favorite subjects, and my best!
AGENT RED
Genie Parada-Fishman, president
A favorite Coterie moment, please! Having Saks, Nordstrom, and Neiman’s in the booth at the same time, and being short on seating. #goodproblems All-time fashion icon? Halston.
DUBARRY OF IRELAND
Toinette Seymour, designer
What’s new this season? Irish tweeds…with a sexy twist! How do you fight the winter blues? Alpaca socks and hot whiskey in front of a roaring fire. Can we find you on social media? No. I’m a Luddite.
DUBARRY OF IRELAND
REPEAT CASHMERE
What are you most excited about for this year? Our new showroom, and also the product mix this year: Capote, Velvet Heart, NU Denmark, Spanx, and recently, Anatomie. What trends are you loving? The concept of trends itself has changed. Trends do not disappear after a quick season on the market any longer. They stay, morph, and take a different shape each season. There has been a tremendous trend toward more causal dressing, but in a way that's polished and sharp, not sloppy.
What’s the first piece of cashmere you bought? A cashmere sweatsuit, the perfect outfit to relax at home or travel in! After that, I was completely hooked. Career highlight? My first photo shoot with supermodel Doutzen Kroes, who’s been our muse for the past seven years. She and our team clicked right away.
APRILMARIN
EGIDIO & SIR WOLF
April Bukofser and Marin Milio, co-founders and designers
TART COLLECTION
Noemie Tugendhaft, creative director
Describe the brand in three words… Design, sophistication, and comfort. Staple winter wardrobe item? Describe your brand in three words… A stretch over-the-knee boot. Effortless, fun, and chic. A favorite Coterie moment? A favorite Coterie moment? Having an Oprah scout come to our booth to It’s our first time. We hope to have lots of favorite moments! tell us how much she loved the collection. Background on the designers, please! April entered the industry after college working for Cynthia Rowley, and Marin got Debra Hayburn, designer her start working on celebrity events at Current trends you’re adoring? MTV Networks. We graduated from college A head-to-toe cashmere lifestyle with a ’70s together and dreamed of starting a fashion revival—fringe, fringe, fringe! company…and here we are! Where are you from?
OATS CASHMERE
Montreal—I moved to the U.S. to follow my passion for cashmere. OATS CASHMERE
REPEAT CASHMERE
EGIDIO & SIR WOLF FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CHICAdieu
THANK YOU! We couldn’t do it without you, chéris. From backstage to the front row, your love, support, designs, and sound bites make The Daily truly the only place to be during NYFW. We can’t wait to see you in the sunkissed pages of The Daily Summer!
GETTY IMAGES (1)
PHOTOGRAPHY BY VITAL AGIBALOW
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Victoria Dipiazza ‘16 Fashion Merchandising Interned at Anthropologie, Marc Jacobs, John Varvatos, CollegeFashionista
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