The Daily Front Row

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thursday, September 4, 2014 thursday february 6, 2014

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from... carolina herrera Jeremy Scott inĂˆs de la fressange marc jacobs bruce weber annie flanders and more...

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In the garden of Good and Evil Collection

804 Washington Street, New York City Bergdorf Goodman - Saks Fifth Avenue www.bykilian.com

S/S 2015 NewYork September 4-11 mbfashionweek.com/live #mbfw

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HAPPY Quiz

No peeking, ChÉRIES!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Fashion Week

WORKOUT!

Muscling your closet into shape doesn’t mean you’re ready for the front row. Let’s test your fitness, shall we?

1. To celebrate his fortieth this August, Riccardo Tisci…

A. Trademarked his salt-and-pepper stubble.

B. Binge-watched Ab Fab; sketched some bulky sweaters.

C. Flew to Ibiza and partied with Kanye West, Kate Moss, and Justin Bieber.

D. Got a Givenchy ankle tat.

2. The following is an actual quote from Tavi Gevinson’s interview with New York magazine: A. “What if I go to New York and I get caught up and I become a horrible person?”

B. “When you’re doing a magazine interview, it’s good to remember that you are not actually the center of the universe. Like, at all.”

C. “I hate being heartbroken, but who better to discuss it with than Taylor Swift?”

D. All of the above.

3. Who stars in Hedi Slimane’s latest campaign for Saint Laurent?

A. Karlie Kloss, doing the ALS ice bucket challenge B. A fresh-faced Ryan Seacrest, in blue suede shoes C. Courtney Love, sporting a sweatshirt that says Bangable D. Russian model Valery Kaufman, sporting bangs

4. Cara Delevingne and Katie Grand’s Insta-famous rabbits are named…

7. Alexander Wang moved his show from Brooklyn back to Manhattan because…

A. Living in Brooklyn is so F/W 2014.

B. Schlepping to Brooklyn during the Polar Vortex gave us PTSD. C. He showed at the Navy Yard and wasn’t feeling navy this season.

D. Anna said so.

8. Which of the following is Joe Zee’s actual job title?

A. Doctor of Imagination, Beats by Dr. Dre B. Style Wizard, Google Projects C. Editor in Chief, Yahoo Style D. Éminence Grise, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

9. Karl Lagerfeld has lent his name and likeness to which iconic toy company?

A. Mattel, which is releasing a Kaiser-inspired Barbie doll.

B. KidKraft, which is releasing a “Lagerfeld’s Grocery” play set.

C. PlayMobil, which is releasing “Karl’s Kastle.”

D. American Girl Doll, which is releasing a line of “Lagerfeld Muses.”

10. Why did The Times’ Vanessa Friedman become a fashion writer?

A. Because she failed her med school exam.

B. “By mistake.”

C. Because she was coaxed into it by her bestie Sally Singer.

D. She was divinely inspired by Cathy Horyn.

A. Cecil and Clara B. Karla and Karlotta C. Fuzz Lightyear and Mr. Merkin D. Bunny Williams and Rabbert Rabbitsteiner

5. Ryan Rafferty’s Wintour–y musical features…

A. A “Let It Be”–ish ditty about Kim Kardashian called “Let Her Die.” B. A scene in which André Leon Talley and Anna lament the horrors of casual wear.

C. A Sally Singer–ish character with a case of the Mondays.

D. Eva Chen flashing a peace sign.

6. Vanity Fair’s International Best-Dressed List features…

A. Henrik Lundqvist in Ralph Lauren B. Chris Martin in Jennifer Lawrence C. Kate Middleton in Comme des Garçons D. Cate Blanchett in Lululemon

Mostly A’s All those crunches paid off! Your abs are as firm as Marc’s. Can we feel?

Mostly B’s Long and lean, with just a touch of plush. Have you considered talking to Victoria’s Secret?

Mostly C’s It’s called Tracy Anderson, chérie. The best $800 a month you’ll ever spend!

Mostly D’s Tracy is only the beginning: Call up André Leon Talley immediatement and get the name of that Duke University médecin he touted in Vogue. No, really.

k e v i n ta c h m a n

ANSWERS: 1. C; 2. D; 3. D; 4. A; 5. B; 6. A; 7. B; 8. C; 9. A; 10. B

the

front row Editor in Chief, CEO

Brandusa Niro Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Christopher Tennant Executive Editor

you’re never fully dressed without a smile!

After a sun-deficient summer filled with crazy headlines and nonstop nonsense, we couldn’t be more excited about fall. The Daily’s prescription for autumnal content? A thousand milligrams of Carolina Herrera, 20ccs of Jeremy Scott, a dropper full of Marc Jacobs, and a dollop of Madison Stubbington. Wash it all down with a coupe of Inès de la Fressange, and you’ll be seeing stars in no time, I assure you. So sit back, stop with the texting, and devour your recommended mega-dose of Vitamin Daily. It’s guaranteed to lift even the dourest of fashion spirits.

Keep it chic this week.

We’ll be watching!

Eddie Roche Deputy Editor

Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Contributing Editors Ashley Baker, Sarah Horne Grose Writer/Reporter Dena Silver Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Director George Maier Contributing Imaging Assistant Mihai Simion President, Publisher Paul Turcotte Account Director Chloe Worden Events & Corporate Partnerships Director Jessica Fafara Marketing Manager Kelly Carr Publishing Coordinator Piero Bellizzi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor

To advertise, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: turcotte@dailyfrontrow.com getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row

DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2014. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

On the cover: Madison Stubbington in Carolina Herrera, photographed by Giorgio Niro.

Hair Jim Crawford, makeup Misha Shahzada.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

giorgio niro: shutterstock

Party Watch!

Catch us at…

TASTY!

Claire Danes

1. The Daily’s Fashion Media Awards, naturellement, Sept. 5 2. Harper’s Bazaar’s bash to fete Carine Roitfeld at The Plaza, Sept. 5 3. Cara Delevingne’s Mulberry moment, Sept. 8 4. Calvin Klein’s big fragrance “reveal,” downtown, Sept. 8 5. Barneys party for Nars’ 20th anniversary, Sept. 4

your daily dose It’s Britney, @#$&!

David Beckham celebrates the release of his collab with Peter Lindbergh at Belstaff House on Sept. 9

DISCUSS

☛ And the madness begins with some delicious highlow dish. In no particular order? We’re raising our eyebrows at the news of Penske’s WWD takeover; Agyness Deyn’s confession that her androgynous fash line was inspired

by Cathy Horyn; Britney Spears bringing her skivvies to the Public Library; Tavi in every magazine we pick up (naturally, we stalked her); Marc Jacobs’ new uptown location; Opening Ceremony’s one-act play, care of Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill; and Polo Ralph Lauren Women’s mega “Fashion Event” in Central Park on Sept. 8. Vive Ralph!

Marc Jacobs

Rita Ora

Tonight, Sept.

4, Bon Appétit and The Daily’s Hot 10 Party will toast the Best New Restaurants in America and their star chefs at Gotham West Market.

Gigi Hadid

IT’S A BIRTHDAY BONANZA Six monumental milestones to celebrate this week.

Tom Ford

20 InStyle 25 Zang Toi 25 Departures 50 Vogue Italia 60 La Perla 65 Wolford That’s a lot of candles to blow out!

Award Season!

Discuss:

W’s discovery of “Banal Plus” (it’s normcore, in French!)

Stefano Tonchi

Naomi Campbell

Katie Grand

FROCK STARS

Jennifer Hudson

Jennifer Lopez

Are you Ubering it to Brooklyn’s Barclays Center Sept. 9 for the Ryan Seacrest– produced Fashion Rocks? Think performances

by Jennifer Lopez, Jennifer Hudson, Usher, and Rita Ora. Hmmm…

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

The Daily Front Row’s second-annual Fashion Media Awards are here! Friday, September 5, at the Park Hyatt New York, we will toast this year’s winners: Stefano Tonchi, Carine Roitfeld, Graydon Carter, Kate Upton, Katie Grand, Naomi Campbell, and more. Yahoo Style’s Joe Zee and model Gigi Hadid will emcee, while Tom Ford and Claire Danes each present an award. Guess to whom!

Mille grazie to our sponsors Maybelline New York, Wolford, Evian, Gibson, Nicolas Feuillatte, and Cointreau.

Carine Roitfeld

Kate Upton

Graydon Carter

getty images (10); bfanyc.com (7); shutterstock

DAWNLEVYDESIGN.COM

z u B z Fix

Vanity Fair’s Michael Carl is our roving correspondent this week! In the first installment of his NYFW dispatches, five golden rules for Tents success.

1. If the poor PR people don’t know who you are right away, just give them a moment, they’re 25 and scared s**tless…remember?

2. Fellas, enough with the makeup. Put down the compact!

3. Sit in your own goddamn seat.

4. Eating at a show is not chic.

5. Don’t ask me if I’m “surviving” the week, we all admittedly get cranky, but it’s not like we’re being shipped off to Kosovo. It’s a bunch of fashion shows— everyone will be alright.

Edie Campbell

A moment with Bella Hadid

DISCUSS

☛ More food for thought: Which stylist’s rep demanded $1,000, accommodations, and car service for her client to attend our Hamptons’ bash this summer? Um, no thanks, love. ☛ Mayor De Blasio hosted a party for the CFDA at Gracie Mansion on Wednesday.

Progress! ☛ Is Edie Campbell the fairest of them all? With her fall ad campaign sweep (posing for Alexander McQueen, Lanvin, Hugo Boss, and Bottega Veneta) and Vogue cover moment, pourquoi pas? ☛ Are Barbie and the CFDA a match made in heaven? Yes, and you can We’ll be see their love story unfold at a doll-meetscelebrating designer bash Sept. 5. ☛ So, what makes Joseph’s collab, Altuzarra for Target, Joseph Altuzarra happy? “Chandelier,”

by Sia. “It’s an amazing song. And my this eve, Sept. 4, at Skylight Clarkson fiancé, Seth Weissman. His attitude is just infectious!”

Square.

Gigi’s little sister just moved to New York and signed with IMG! So, what’s it like to be a brand-new New Yorker?

It’s been about a week and I think I’ve turned into a city girl already. I have my first test shoot this week, and I’m in school at Parsons every day. It’s nice being independent.

Has Gigi given you advice about modeling?

We talk about it. She just says, it’s not personal if they don’t always want your look at that exact second. Be confident.

So where have you guys been hanging out?

There’s a place that Gigi showed me called Bread. She is obsessed with it. Liquiteria is also right around the corner from my apartment.

Daily Doubles!

Steve Madden

Bill Wackermann

Ron Perelman

Tory Burch

What We’re Reading Now! I’ll Drink to That, by Betty Halbreich (Sept. 4, Penguin Press) Premise: Bergdorf’s iconic personal shopper shares her wit and wisdom.

Blurbspeak: “[Betty] is able to be in the fashion world, but also take it down a peg at the same time.”

—Lena Dunham, fashion expert

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Olivier Zahm Diary, by Olivier Zahm (October, Rizzoli) Premise: Because you haven’t seen his Tumblr, O.Z. has assembled a 600-page, $85 coffee-table tome replete with nudie pics, urinals, cigarettes, tigers, more nudie pics, and Mick Jagger.

Blurbspeak: “Olivier leads a sort of heroic life…he is the exemplar of urban adventure…he’s the test pilot of the night.”—Glenn O’Brien

Michael Krans

Kristin Wiig

BOOK CLUB Champagne Supernovas,

by Maureen Callahan (Sept. 2, Touchstone) Premise: ’90s superstars Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, and Kate Moss changed fashion forever (who knew?).

Blurbspeak: “This rise-and-fall story has it all: sex, drugs, rock, and frocks.”—Michael Gross

With George Wayne Tell us about your upcoming book.

Vanity Fair is a PG magazine, so all the saucy stuff never made it to the book.

This is the uncensored, raw cut.

Do elaborate!

With Kate Moss, we talked about the moment I introduced her to Johnny Depp at Café Tabac. And how she was once five hours late for a CK One ad shoot, stuff like that. There’s good stuff from Donatella and Gianni Versace too. Gianni was a great gossip.

What’s making you happy?

Who said I’m happy?! I’ll be happy when I see that seven-figure contract.

B F A N Y C . C O M ( 7 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 4 ) ; a l l othe r s co u r tesy

Live:10.25”

CMYK

Live:13”

“For the first day of school, I’d wear sunglasses that are too big for my face, clogs, and my favorite leather jacket.”

—Karolyn Pho

z Buz Fix

“My favorite chocolate bar chased with a Vita Coco— that’s an ideal lunch.”

—Valentina Kova

Back to school!

Meet the freshman class of fashion talent! These up-and-comers are worth watching closely this season and beyond. Valentina Kova, Kaelen Haworth, Ji Oh, Karolyn Pho, Brandon Sun, and Simon Miller’s Dan Corrigan and Jake Sargent filled us in on all sorts of (imaginary) school matters. Take notes, junior chicsters!

First day outfits, please!

“I’d die to be in Stephen Gan’s AP class.”

—Brandon Sun

“A white button-down shirt paired with a flared miniskirt. Don’t forget the boots with colorful socks peeking out!”—Valentina Kova ☛ “A slouchy black pant with a nude sleeveless button-down.”—Kaelen Haworth ☛ “Denim on denim.”—Simon Miller’s Dan Corrigan ☛ “Definitely leggings with a white button-down shirt.”—Ji Oh ☛ “A deconstructed look juxtaposed against a sharp blazer.”—Brandon Sun

Lunch, anyone?

“Cheez-Its, then an energy drink, followed by an iced coffee.”—Karolyn Pho ☛ “A turkey sandwich with brie cheese and healthy green juice.”—Ji Oh ☛ “Salad. Ugh. Basic but true.

I love a salad with some salmon and avocado in there.”—Kaelen Haworth ☛ “We only use natural fibers in our collection, so I’d probably be having a paleo lunch.”—Simon Miller’s Jake Sargent ☛ “Iced oolong tea and a Norwegian salmon baguette.”—Brandon Sun

Locker neighbors of choice…

Ji Oh

“Beyonce.”—Valentina Kova ☛ “Some squirrelly art kid who I probably have a massive secret crush on.

And the captain of the water polo team.”—Karolyn Pho ☛ “Dan Corrigan, so we can constantly talk

about indigo.”—Simon Miller’s Jake Sargent ☛ “Daria.”—Kaelen Haworth ☛ “I’d probably try to get as close as possible to Nicolas Ghesquière and Marie-Amélie Sauvé.”—Brandon Sun

“My posse would consist of book nerds. But cool book nerds who are just dying to be librarians when they grow up, like Parker Posey in Party Girl.”

—Kaelen Haworth

Fave teacher, s’il vous plait!

☛ “Alber Elbaz.”—Ji Oh ☛ “The Proenza boys, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez—there’d be so much to learn from them! Or DvF: She’d be supportive and fabulous at the same time.”—Kaelen Haworth ☛ “Yves Saint Laurent.”—Valentina Kova

Sent to detention for…

“Being mischievous and breaking the rules.”

—Ji Oh ☛“Uniform infractions and talking in class.”—Kaelen Haworth

Which class would you cut, darlings?

“History!”—Ji Oh ☛ “Any type of math. Duh! I actually petitioned to drop algebra. At that point in my academic career, I was already far enough along to know that I would never need algebra. Fingers crossed.”—Kaelen Haworth ☛ “I’m not a morning person, so whichever class is first period.”—Simon Miller’s Jake Sargent ☛ “Calculus, me sitting through that class is never happening.”—Karolyn Pho

“Martin Margiela would be a great teacher—he’s got impeccable branding.”

—Jake Sargent

Beautiful Nudes Boasting 12 beautiful must-have shades (think everything from Silken Taupe à la Wes Gordon’s Fall show to Deep Black), THE NUDES by Maybelline New York gives you a natural front-row look or a super smoky eye for all those evening fêtes. Bonus: There’s not only matte shades but colors with shimmery finishes too. And at only $11.99, it’s a choice investment for the week!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

getty images (10); bfanyc.com (7); shutterstock

CACHE.COM

N E W YO R K

MIAMI

D ALLAS

LO S A N G E LE S

e o L v Eli Charles Feldman

Fix

Baby Bliss

Leslie Robarge

SCENE Meredith Melling

☛ Fashionettes, we just love to see you multiply! Congrats to Zanna Roberts Rassi on her delectable twins, Juno and Rumi, to Meredith Melling on baby Wolf, to Bee Shapiro on Ellis, and to Leslie Robarge on the arrival of the delicious Eli on May 3.

Leslie reports: ‘He’s a little ginger who excels at napping.’ Meanwhile, Eva Chen Instagrammed the lucky news that she’s expecting a very chic mini me. Plus, The Daily’s next generation has also expanded, thanks to blue-eyed Oscar, Sarah Horne Grose’s most recent production.

Oodles of you have been tying the knot lately. Congrats are due to Sophie Elgort and Eric von Stroh, who said “I do” in Southampton last month, and to PYTs Lindsay Ellingson, Behati Prinsloo, and Eric von Stroh and Olivia Palermo, who Sophie Elgort were married in, respectively, Sophie Theallet, Marchesa, and Carolina Herrera. Meanwhile, in May, Gawker Media maestro Nick Denton and Derrence Washington took over the American Museum of Natural History for their wedding/blogger blowout. Lavish, yes, but it was no match for the Fabiola Beracasa extravaganza thrown by Fabiola and Jason Beckman Beracasa and Jason Beckman, which took place at a 16th-century Croatian palace and included a surprise performance by Snoop Dogg (plus guests like Jessica Hart, Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis, Margherita Missoni, Derrence Washington and Tabitha Simmons). and Nick Denton

Eva Chen’s “Lucky” news!

Ellis Fei Shapiro and his mom, Bee

#ThisMasticMoment

Elizabeth Condry and Charlie Shaffer

a i t Nup

s s i l lB

In June, Anna Wintour hosted a major spread in Mastic for her son Charlie Shaffer’s wedding to Elizabeth Condry.

The bride wore Oscar de la Renta (who also attended as a guest), the bridesmaids (like Charlie’s sister Bee) donned Prada, and the flower girls walked the aisle in Alexander McQueen. But what did Anna wear?

Chanel, naturellement.

Chelsea Leyland DJd and Prabal Gurung also snagged an invite, making the whole event oh-so-timely indeed.

Sean Clayton and Lindsay Ellingson

Bravissima!

Our congrats to Mary Alice Stephenson, recently engaged to the dashing architect Luca Iacovoni.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Adam Levine and Behati Prinsloo g i o r g i o n i r o ; b fa n yc . c o m ( 9 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 2 ) ; getty images; all others courtesy

S:13”

©2014 Maybelline LLC.

S:10.25”

HAPPY Milestone

Herrera’s Joyful Journey You’re always smiling when we see you. Discuss!

I think fashion should be happy and fun and not so serious. I love people with a sense of humor! I adore. There are many situations in life that make you laugh— the unexpected ones—and somehow you find yourself on the floor. I don’t see that enough.

Does food make you happy?

No! It’s not that important, except for chocolate. That makes me very happy. My family makes me happy. My husband makes me happy, because we laugh a lot.

We have a good relationship because of our sense of humor. I like people who have a sense of humor about themselves.

Sometimes people have a sense of humor about others, but not themselves.

How would you describe your husband Reinaldo’s sense of humor?

He’s very witty! He’s one of those people who has the right answer always. I admire that a lot.

Are there places that make you happy?

My house makes me happy! I love to go to Patmos, Greece, which we did this summer.

We stayed with a very close friend, John Stefanidis, the interior designer. It’s divine.

That island gives me peace.

What do you do there?

We go on the boat, swim, walk, talk, and read.

What was on your reading list?

The Alexander Trilogy by Mary Renault and The Heir Apparent by Jane Ridley. I was rereading them. I’m a great admirer of Alexander the Great, and Reinaldo gave me the trilogy. Do you realize he died when he wasn’t even 30? He owned the world at one point. [Laughs] No pressure whatsoever.

Who do you consider the happiest people in fashion?

Glenda Bailey and her Bazaar team! They are always so optimistic and so full of life and fun. They always seem to be having a ball.

You and Glenda still write handwritten notes!

Absolutely! The human touch is so important. I know everybody is e-mailing, but I don’t know how to do that. Writing is a human touch that shouldn’t disappear.

What are we missing by avoiding handwriting?

Romance! It’s those human touches. The books are now being read on a machine.

I can’t. I need to have my pages go back and forth. You can still have the machines, but hands…

Do you use the Internet at all?

I don’t. I have an iPad where I watch Netflix. That’s fantastic. I believe in social media for a company. It’s very important. People want to know what’s going on. My Instagram is for my company. The most important thing in fashion is what’s new. I don’t believe in Instagram or Facebook for private use. Your life is your life, and there has to be privacy. There has to be a little bit of mystery. You can’t be an open book all day long. Everybody knowing what you do? No! I was not brought up that way.

Thoughts on selfies?

I hate them. Everybody looks terrible, because the camera is too close. You have to be a certain age to do a selfie. No selfies, and no arms around me. I love to be asked to have my photograph taken with someone, because that means I’m doing something right. It’s very flattering and I’m delighted! Sometimes people come and FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

put their arm around me without knowing me. Photograph, yes. Arm around me, no!

Where are you asked for photographs?

Everywhere. Even on the plane, and I have to say, “Why don’t we wait until we arrive?” But I never refuse. I don’t understand why some stars get so angry when they are photographed—that’s their job. They belong to the public.

Any backstage moments that have made you laugh?

One time I asked a model if she could please smile and not look so angry. I said, “Smile! You won’t look so angry!” She looked at me like I was asking her something unbelievably difficult. She said, “If I smile, I can’t walk!” So I said, “Forget it. Don’t smile! Walk!”

Assuming you never used her again!

We did, because she was actually great!

Do you wish models could smile in shows?

They should be a little happier. Sometimes people ask me, “Why were the models so angry?” and I say, “They’re not angry!

They’re doing their job, and that’s the way it is.” But if you have a model who is happy, the dress looks better, non?

Who would you rate as your favorite models of all time?

Dianne DeWitt and Mounia are two. They were around when I started. You have to look at them. Mounia was Yves Saint Laurent’s favorite too. Absolutely fabulous.

You’re also making costumes for the New York City Ballet this month.

I’m doing the costumes for Peter Martins’ Morgen. Come and see it.

Do you go to the theater a lot?

Yes! This summer I’ve been going with my grandchildren. I saw Aladdin, Matilda, and The Lion King for the seventh time.

Do you still cry when Simba’s dad dies?

[Laughs] I don’t cry anymore! I know all the lines by now. Still, it’s fabulous. Full of fantasy—the costumes, the music, and the faces of the children in the theater.

Favorite comedian?

Seth Meyers, and my all-time favorite is Lucille Ball. She was fantastic. My children used to call me Lucy. They’d say, “Everything you do is like Lucy!” I loved it!

What’s on the boob tube in the Herrera household?

I love Veep and Homeland. I was taken by it. I also love The Good Wife. Sometimes I see Julianna Margulies and I say, “When is the show coming back!?”

What’s your motto in life?

Always leave room for fantasy.

Congratulations on your Artistry of Fashion Award!

I’m so flattered. I’ve been a great admirer of them. Joyce Brown and Valerie Steele are incredible. It’s a great honor.

You’ll have to make a speech!

I’m right to the point and very short. People shouldn’t speak so long. I’m a fashion designer, not a speaker. I get right to the point and say thank you.

How do you still stay interested after doing collection after collection?

The more you do, the more you want to do. After you have a little bit of success like this, you want more. I have a passion for fashion. One of the things I love is putting the collection together, and I have a fantastic team.

Do you ever think about retiring?

Why? Why? Why?

Makeup by Misha Shahzada for Maybelline New York Hair by Jim Crawford for Chi Haircare

This year’s recipient of the FIT Couture Council’s Artistry of Fashion Award has the work-life balance down pat. Carolina’s secret? Lots of laughs, boundless passion, and a witty partner to share it with. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

“

The more you do, the more you want to do. After you have a little bit of success like this, you want more. I have a passion for fashion.

HAPPY Milestone

Model

Moment With Madison Stubbington

She made her runway debut last season at Christopher Kane and landed a plum Vogue editorial in August. Are you really that surprised that this 17-yearold Australian beauty is poised to be the next big thing?

Where were you discovered?

In a modeling competition back in Australia.

I entered just for fun, and I won!

Who are your favorite models of all time?

Well, I can’t go past Miranda Kerr, of course.

She’s a good Aussie icon. Candice Swanepoel is another favorite.

Which photographers would you love to work with?

Steven Meisel. I already got to work with Peter Lindbergh! I would love to work with him again. He was really nice.

Is it your first season at New York Fashion Week?

Yes, and I can’t wait to see what will happen.

Christopher Kane was my first big runway show, and then I did Paris Fashion Week as well. After Paris, I went back and walked quite a few shows at Sydney Fashion Week.

Who’s your favorite redhead?

Well, I met Grace Coddington when I shot for Vogue, and she was so sweet. I also love Amy Adams!

How was your Vogue experience?

It was my first time in New York, and that was the reason I came here. I only got my visa a few days before—it was a whirlwind! I love New York! I think it’s my favorite city, because I love the energy.

Have you ever worn a Carolina Herrera gown before?

I haven’t, but they are very beautiful! If I could afford them I would definitely buy one. One day, hopefully!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

#SAKSSTYLE WANT TO BE A STYLE ICON?

TAG YOUR NEW SAKS LOOK #SAKSSTYLE SO EVERYONE CAN SHOP YOUR LOOK ON SAKS.COM/SAKSSTYLE.

saks.com

Pure

Joie!

Our recipe for runway bliss: Take one part Rykiel, stir in some Lagerfeld magic, add a dash of glam Gaultier et voilà! We can’t help but smile.

SONIA RYKIEL Spring 2009

To cap off Rykiel’s 40thanniversary collection, a slew of her friends designed tributes to her, like this look, by Martin Margiela.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

D&G

Fall 2006 For this jubilant finale, Dolce and Gabbana turned the catwalk into a snow globe, with of-the-moment models cast as sexy elves.

g e t t y i m ag e s

viktor & rolf Fall 2005

No sleep till Mokum! We adored this moment, when our favorite Dutch duo took their aptitude for whimsy into the boudoir.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

chanel Fall 2010

And who can forget the time Karl turned the Grand Palais into a winter wonderland replete with hunky bears?

FIRSTVIEW

GAULTIER Spring 2012

A collection inspired by illstarred chanteuse Amy Winehouse could have been somber.

Instead, Gaultier made it sing with emerald green ball gowns and cotton candy coifs.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

CHANEL Spring 2010

Karl Lagerfeld masters cheer yet again, sending rosed-up vixens down his couture runway with heart-shaped bouffants and chic space-age styling.

G AU LT I E R : G E T T Y I M AG E S ; C H A N E L : G R E G K E S S L E R

FENDI Spring 2007

For showmanship alone, it’s hard to beat Fendi’s extravaganza on the Great Wall of China, which wowed and amused in equal measure.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

louis vuitton Fall 2012

A giant, dreamy carousel and ostrich feathers hit the Marc during Jacobs’ penultimate year at the label.

So what if Kate Moss looks un peu sad.

getty images

alexander mcqueen fall 1999

Fifteen years later, Shalom Harlow being spray-painted by robots still gives us incredible joy.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

getty images

REVOLVECLOTHING.COM @REVOLVEclothing

What makes you

s-up s o t a s ’ It fluffy n e e w t e b ayer l e l p i r t reenG . s r M nut o c o c ’s berg da cake an l ca recipro crush. o,

a Farg —Lind sident, vice pre senior man rf Good Bergdo

After a summer of major bummers, we canvassed the chic set for positive vibes...

To love and be loved makes me happy.

My dog, Bird.

, de —Wes Gordon

signer

Hugs and kisses, peonies, and sunsets.

How cliché, I know!

—Hilary Rhoda, model FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

—Gigi Hadid, model

d wor s s o e cr when n i z ly aga ecial appy m p ork py, es ery h ic and Y ew hap also v aph N r ne Th kes me t! I’m Geog ashio f ma nish i tional ings ecently h I fi g Na all t ood r ! y g ut din rea ning o love a mummner tu ted. I hed desig t r, rela unear a Salze Lis —

Dinner with my grandkiddos.

I love to have them get all dressed up and take them to a nice restaurant.

You wouldn’t believe the change in their behavior when they put on a dress!

Neville and Charlie!

Neville is my dog, and Charlie is his best friend, who’s also a dog. No matter how bad things get, the two of them always make me happy.

—Marc Jacobs, designer

Wearing pajamas, dark chocolate with sea salt, and cat GIFs.—Leah Chernikoff, editor, Elle.com

—Betsey Johnson, designer

Korean BBQ, Ben & Jerry’s Chubby Hubby, diamond Rolexes, male models, Chanel, ’90s K-pop, and ginger beer.

Puppy kisses and an ice cold can of Coke.

Not a bottle—it must be a can!

—Kyle Anderson, accessories director, Marie Claire

Being generous makes me happy. I like giving more than people expect, and seeing how that snowballs to the point where everyone is overachieving.

—Garrett Neff, model

—Marissa Webb, designer

enture, Planning my next adv ughing la d n a , re tu a n in g n ei b with my grandchildren. It’s the really ga simple things that brin smile to my face. er

—Donna Karan, design

b f a n y c . c o m ( 7 ) ; g e t t y ( 2 ) ; p a t r i c k m c m u ll a n . c o m ; a ll o t h e r s c o u r t e s y

My dog Floyd, sun, family, and beautiful clothes!

Watching the little kids playing in the Washington Square Park fountain all summer.

—Michael Bastian, designer

—Jessica Hart, model

Walking through the door of my apartment, crisp, clean sheets tightly tucked in, seeing Mickey Boardman do a twirl, and peanut M&M’s.

—Marjorie Gubelmann, socialite and DJ

st r e i e pp v a o h c s . i m n ’ d o I en I essigner bs si e o d , wh new na Sui a —An FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

I love driving to the airport on my way to a vacation. It’s really the most perfect part of the trip, just immaculate illusions. It’s kind of funny that the best part of a trip to the Galápagos Islands or Vietnam happens in the QueensMidtown Tunnel.—Lucio Castro, designer

Fall weather, date night at ABC Cocina, and Mindy Kaling.

—Ariel Foxman, EIC, InStyle

Marathons of my two favorite shows: 19 Kids and Counting and Long Island Medium, veggie dogs from Westville, watching YouTube documentaries about royal jewels, trips to Marbella, and Muji socks in rainbow colors.—Mickey BoardWhen I see true, raw happiness in people living their every day.

Otherwise, a good classic rock ’n’ roll song, Christmas, my mother’s apple tart, and untalented people dancing.

—Diana Moldovan, model

man, editorial director, Paper

The Daily!most harried

Happiness comes from within. It’s not about those outside things—it’s figuring out who you are on the inside.

—Liberty Ross, actress and model

my “When I’m at a Week, you put during Fashion ith your brilw e c fa y m n o smile g.

-cheek reportin n -i e u g n to y tl lian have ily junkie and a D a f o d in k I’m very day.” to get my fixr,efounder, Cinema Society —Andrew Saffi

FlyBarre class taught by the one and only Todd Allen, the parsnip ice cream with caramel chocolate sauce at Estela, dancing with total abandon, conquering a fear, trolling yard sales with my husband, and laughing until I can’t breathe.—Paige Novick, designer

Good music—Lana Del Rey, Drake, Rihanna, and some Bob Marley—good company, and good Japanese food or pasta.—Devon

Windsor, model

b f a n y c . c o m ( 8 ) ; p a t r i c k m c m u ll a n . c o m ( 2 ) ; g e t t y i m a g e s ; a ll o t h e r s c o u r t e s y

HAPPY Camp

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

GREAT SCOTT!

Street style genius Jeremy Scott has been a singular voice in fashion for over fifteen years, lending whimsy to everyone from Adidas to Longchamp. Now, after his masterful revamp of Moschino, the whole world is listening. With the blessed trinity of pop (Miley, Katy, Rihanna) rocking his sui generis looks, even mainstream America is in on the joke. What about vous? BY ASHLEY BAKER You just celebrated a birthday, right?

Yes! I had a party at SoulCycle.

They threw a private ride for me, because I pretty much go every day. It was kind of perfect. They wanted me to ride the trainer bike for the class, but I was like, “There’s just no way.

I can’t.” I’m always bike 9, so I have a mirror, and I need the mirror, but for the weights and the last two songs, I did the instructor bike. I felt really spoiled. They decorated the whole place—balloons, cakes, candy. It was super, super sweet.

What’s the best gift you got?

The fact that all my friends showed up was probably the best gift, but I did get a really beautiful Ronnie Cutrone print from Pablo [Olea, Scott’s longtime colleague].

What’s happening with your collection? What do you have up your sleeve?

I’ve been working on a new direction, in a way. I’ve really been thinking about how to make the collection feel very individualistic and challenge myself to make it feel more like a group of people, rather than a collection; give it a lot more diversity, and have it feel like a group of really cool kids at a concert or music festival. I’ve designed something like 23, 25 prints already. That part has already been a little more steep, compared

to normal. We’re working every day on doing fittings and putting it all together.

You’ve had so much success in your first few collections for Moschino. Did you have any hesitation about taking on such an iconic Italian brand?

Absolutely none. I knew that it was the perfect fit for me, so I was just kind of like, “There’s just no one who can do this better than me.” As egotistical as that sounds, this is one that I know I can do so effortlessly, in the sense that it’s so similar to the language that I speak.

Right out of the gate you did a riff on the McDonald’s logo.

Where did you come up with that idea?

I was driving up LaBrea and saw McDonald’s and it just flashed in my mind: McDonald’s, Moschino. Over 20 billion served.

I scurried to find my pen and paper in my car. When I got to the stoplight, I had to draw something so I didn’t lose the thought. I could get a phone call—my mind is going all the time, so if I don’t make some notation, I could lose an idea forever. I scribbled on a piece of paper the logo, and was like, “Oh, my God, this is so strong, and it makes so much sense for Moschino.” I’m so flattered that people took to it so strongly and embraced it so well, and it’s been so ubiquitous. That’s what I try to do with my work—to touch people’s lives and have a conversation. For it to resonate so deeply has been super exciting and motivating for me.

Jeremy Scott Fall ’14

Moschino Fall ’14

HAPPY Camp

Jeremy and friends (from left): Yohji Yamamoto, Jared Leto, Kanye West, and Coco Rocha

You seem to have an endless well of inspiration. Where does that come from?

I think I just love doing what I do. I’m always open to the next thing and want to do exciting work. Inspiration is such a difficult thing to articulate. It’s like magic. I get very spiritual about it, to be honest, and I start sounding very church-y. In a way, it’s like God speaking through me. These ideas are gifts, and I just have to be there to receive them. In a lot of ways, I feel like I’m just a vessel: It comes to me, and I pour it back out. I don’t really feel like I have any control over it, and it’s not a turn-it-on, turn-itoff thing. When I have those ideas, they flood me, and then I can’t do anything else but them. I can’t go to bed. It becomes a bit manic in that respect. I get intoxicated by it. It’s like a drug. The vision becomes so strong and powerful that I probably wouldn’t see something in front of my own eyes, because it’s so clear.

How do you get all the work done, between your own line, Moschino, the collaboration with Adidas…

Luckily, everyone is miraculously on a different time schedule.

I design Adidas a year in advance, and because it’s been going on now in its continuous form since 2008, I’m used to the rhythm. I handed in next fall’s collection last month. With Moschino, their deadlines are a little sooner than mine—they’re all on holiday, getting tans and relaxing—so I finished my fittings here in July. I still get e-mails about store windows and all kinds of things, but the main thing is that it’s not overlapping with my own collection. Trying to manage the deadlines is the part I like least about my job. Ultimately, I do want to always make something really creative and exciting and fun, and give it its full breath. You start feeling like, “Could I dive deeper into this?” I’d love to wallow in it like a pig in mud a little bit longer. But nowadays, with the fact that I have so much going on, it’s like, if you miss a train, another one’s coming.

I’m going to have another place to say stuff in five minutes, so I don’t have to worry so desperately that I get every last thing said in each show. There’s always another one coming.

Do you care about critics?

Genuinely, I do not care about that. I’ve read things that are nice, and sometimes I read things that are not so nice, but I definitely do not search for it. I have, like, a million PRs right now—they’re like family, and anything I do, they are all so supportive. I have PR in every country in the world for Adidas. Imagine how many people are sending me notes! It’s not that I can’t ever get away with not knowing some of that stuff, good or bad, but I don’t base my value in it. Everyone does have an opinion, and that’s just part of the world. There are a lot of people, I feel, who are not my customer, who do reviews, and so I don’t think FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

they would like it, and I don’t think they can get it. There are a lot of people in fashion who shouldn’t really be talking about fashion because I don’t feel like they have the proper education for it. I read reviews about Moschino that said, “Jeremy’s collection was so much more kitsch than Franco’s ever were…” Franco did Christmas tree tinsel and Christmas balls on a jacket. There’s nothing more kitsch than Christmas!

I speak for a new generation, and I’ve never been part of the status quo, and so that’s always going to be part of it. I realize that I’m an easy target, too, because anytime that you do something that’s not de rigueur, it makes it easier. I don’t know what it is with fashion and humor, but it seems like whenever you see it, people get a little suspicious. I have legions of fans who are loyal, and loving customers who are excited about what I do, and that’s who I’m

“I don’t know what it is with fashion and humor, but it seems like whenever you see it, people get suspicious. I have legions of fans who are loyal, and loving customers who are excited about what I do, and that’s who I’m concerned about.”

concerned about. Am I speaking my truth for my fan base? It doesn’t really matter what a critic from any magazine has to say about it, ultimately.

It’s cool to see an American reinvigorating Italian fashion. Do you think fashion has become a bit too boring?

Yes, I do think fashion has gotten boring. There seems to be this mentality— remember when they went into those poppy fields in The Wizard of Oz? It’s kind of like that.

Ha! What makes you happy?

Going to see a double-feature—having the time to buy that second ticket—and just doing what I do. At a fashion show, you feel uplifted. There’s an escapism for those 10 minutes. There’s so much serious s**t in the world, and fashion doesn’t need to be part of that.

Katy Perry in Jeremy Scott

b fa n yc . c o m (6 ) ; f i r s t v i e w. c o m (4) ; g e t t y imag e s

CMC GROUP

Miami living for the Manhattan type.

PRESENTING DOWNTOWN MIAMI’S MOST ANTICIPATED LUXURY CONDOMINIUM TOWER EXCLUSIVE SALES & MARKETING BY CMC REAL ESTATE LLC | 888-780-5175 | WWW.BRICKELLFLATIRON.COM ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING THE REPRESENTATIONS OF THE DEVELOPER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, MAKE REFERENCE TO THIS BROCHURE AND TO THE DOCUMENTS RE-QUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA ST ATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. THIS OFFERING IS MADE ONLY BY THE OFFERING DOCUMENTS FOR THE CONDOMINIUM AND NO STATEMENT SHOULD BE RELIED UPON IF NOT MADE IN THE OFFERING DOCUMENTS. THIS IS NOT AN OFFER TO SELL, OR SOLICITATION OF OFFERS TO BU Y,THE CONDOMINIUM UNITS IN STATES WHERE SUCH OFFER OR SOLICITATION CANNOT BE M ADE. PRICES, PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE.

FI_TheDailySummer11.25" x 14"0812.indd 2

8/12/14 7:15 PM

HAPPY Expat

MISHA’S MOMENT

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Born in Bahrain, raised in London, and now living in New York, designer Misha Nonoo has been building a buzz since her collection debut in Fall 2011.

This season is shaping up to be a dynamic one, thanks to new collaborations and an enlightened perspective, courtesy of the CFDA Incubator program. BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO What influenced your love of fashion?

I was born in the Middle East, and when I was 12, we moved to London.

I was educated there and very quickly became obsessed with the transformative nature of fashion. As a teenager, I started to see a wave of contemporary designers from Phillip Lim to Alexander Wang starting to come out of America, and I was really fascinated by clothes at that price point with that level of design integrity. But there was nothing that really represented my aesthetic, which is a little bit more soft and feminine. I decided then that I really wanted to work in fashion and that I’d love my own label. I didn’t really know what that meant, though, so I went to business school in London and Paris.

How did you end up in New York?

I wanted to move here because there is a garment district! I got an apprenticeship with Saul Maslavi, which is a small business, but it was a really nice place to learn. I had on-the-job training in every department of design. While I was there, I dipped my toe in the water and created a collection of eight jackets and coats. I thought, “Oh, I’ll just put it out there.”

A friend knew the buyer of Intermix, and before I knew it, I was trudging up a staircase with a suitcase of samples. They bought the collection. For three seasons, I did the jackets only and then it got to a point where buyers were like, “You really need to do a full collection.”

What did it feel like to launch your label here?

The wonderful thing about creating a collection in America is that you’re around like-minded people who are very entrepreneurial. There’s a sense of experimentation that I don’t think exists as much elsewhere.

Has your business degree proven useful?

Nothing ever really prepares you for having your own business. Business school is great, but going through the Vogue Fashion Fund is a huge learning experience, too.

Who are your CFDA Incubator mentors?

Malcolm Carfrae, who is head of global communications for Ralph Lauren; Kyle Andrew, the brand director at Kate Spade, Kate Spade Saturday, and Jack Spade; Lisa Metcalfe of Launch-USA, who specializes in production; and April Uchitel, who is the chief brand officer for Spring, the shopping app that launched last week.

What sorts of seminars are part of the Incubator program?

Marketing, financial, digital, and social media. We also have events like an evening with the Calvin Klein team—we went to the studios and met Francisco Costa and several other design directors. They talked about their lives, as well as the business and how it’s changed.

How did you end up collaborating with Dustin Yellin?

I had met Dustin a few years ago at ArtCRUSH in Aspen. I really liked him from the beginning—he was a real character. Contemporary art has been a great inspiration for the collection for several seasons, and I decided that I’d like to collaborate with an artist, and Dustin was my first choice.

He was like, “Yeah! This will be sick!”

What should we expect from your collaboration with Aldo Rise?

We’re offering our woman the head-to-toe look, including bags. I’d absolutely love to do home décor one day, too!

What’s the vibe of your office?

I always bring my dog, Thatcher—named after Margaret Thatcher. She’s a sweet little munchkin! I’m also a freak about the color of the flowers in the office. I don’t like colorful flowers. Only white! And we usually have Cadbury chocolate, because my mum brings packets and packets of it when she visits.

In your free time…

I love to have friends over, travel, and read. I realized that there are all these classics that you’re meant to read when you are 15, but you can’t appreciate them then. I read the Cliff Notes! So this time I’m actually reading Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast right now, and I just finished For Whom the Bell Tolls. Also, I’m a Libra, so I’m constantly seeking to find balance in my life.

#BIZ WITH

STYLE “Berkeley College is a perfect fit. I am so happy here. My professors have really sparked my creativity and provided me with a deep understanding of current fashion and business trends. As a blogger focusing on the Fashion Industry, I also learned how social media can be used as a powerful marketing and communication tool. I know I am prepared for my career because of what I am learning here at Berkeley.�

Raquel Rivera Berkeley College Fashion Blogger

Call 800-446-5400 ext. BFF, visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/Fashion or email info@BerkeleyCollege.edu

Find us @BerkeleyCollege and #BizWithStyle

Berkeley College reserves the right to add, discontinue, or modify its programs and policies at any time.

Modifications subsequent to the original publication of this information may not be reflected here. For the most up-to-date information, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu. For more information about Berkeley College graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed programs, and other important disclosures, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/disclosures.

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HAPPY Dame

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

All in the

Details

The groundbreaking creator of the original Details magazine, Annie Flanders is a certified publishing legend.

Now 75, she’s still sporting her signature red locks, talking smack, and living happily in Los Angeles. Overdue for a catch-up, n’est-ce pas? BY EDDIE ROCHE What brought you to Los Angeles?

I started coming out here for events when I was still at Details, and I just loved it so much. I lived with my partner, Chris, for 38 years. He had a heart transplant here in 1995, and his doctors couldn’t compare to those from anywhere else. He was very ill afterward, so I was basically off the grid for 12 years. He was my whole concentration. Unfortunately, he died in 2007. He was a wonderful and gorgeous man.

Why did you leave New York?

The magazine was taken away from me. I was doing NLP [Neuro-Linguistic Programming], which is a very interesting and complicated thing, and during a session, I was asked where I’d like to be if I only had six months to live. I immediately said, “I’d move to L.A.” I got tired of New York, which was insane, because I was the most New York person ever. I never thought I’d leave, but it kept changing so much. So I came out here.

What did your friends think?

They were thrilled, because they’d all come out here and stay in my house!

And you ended up in real estate?

Not really. My daughter had gotten me into real estate because she wanted to do it and never liked to be alone. She conned me into studying with her and then convinced me to take the test, but I did it for a small amount of time. The New York Times wrote about it, which was ridiculous.

Were you a good realtor?

One of the big shocks in the Times piece was that I said I would never go to Beverly Hills. I actually can’t remember the last time I was there.

Are people happier in L.A.?

I’ve never stopped to think of it. Maybe because so many of my good friends moved out here for the weather.

There’s freedom and good feeling here.

New York is so overcrowded. It’s not the New York I grew up in.

So, Details. How did you come up with the name?

We had a house in Woodstock, and my daughter started making a lot of friends there. One day, she came in after being at a friend’s house, and I was asking her a lot of questions about the family. She said, “I don’t know! I don’t know!” And I said, “Next time you go to somebody’s house, get all the details.” I jotted that down in a book, because I thought it would be a good name for a magazine.

You launched it in 1981. What was your original vision?

My vision was that it started at 48 pages and ended up at something like 300 pages! Almost everything that I did was about finding new designers—young people who needed a place where they did work or had pieces shown. Nobody wanted to hire people with no experience except for me. I was always finding new people who needed that first place to be.

Why was that important to you?

I cared about them. It’s been the base of my life to work with young people.

Actually, they don’t have to be young, they can be old too. I brought in photographers, writers, and designers. I never thought of Details as a fashion magazine when I started it, but I won the CFDA award for innovative, new magazine in 1984. In the first issue I managed to give Bill Cunningham six of those pages. As time grew, he’d sometimes have over 100 pages, which was never done before. It was the greatest thing. We watched the Bill Cunningham film again the other night, and I was so deeply touched by it.

How did you meet Bill?

He came to Abracadabra, the store I owned in the late ’60s. He was working for WWD, and was heartbroken when, one day, they took his copy and wrote something negative about how bad the people looked who dressed themselves. He was devastated because his name was on it. I ran into him a while later, and we became closer and closer as time went on. We’re still extremely close.

Who were some of the young designers who you helped?

There’s so many—Isabel and Ruben Toledo, Arianne Phillips, who still tells people I gave her her first job. Anna Sui, who brought Steven Meisel to me when he was an illustrator.

Richard Tyler and Patrick Kelly were both very important designers who came in at the very beginning.

You were also instrumental in Stephen Gan’s career.

Bill used to work down in Soho on Saturdays and he met Stephen. Bill thought he looked great, and Stephen told Bill that he was a starving artist. His mother cut off his money because he wouldn’t go to business school. Bill gave him a quarter, which is what a phone call cost then. He told him to call me and that was the beginning of a very long relationship.

I saw him in Paris and he wanted so much to come back to the States and I said, “I have a job if you want it, and you can make it as long or as short as you want it while you get on your feet and figure out what you want to do.” He ended up working in the fashion department. He could do everything from illustration to photography. When Details shut down, he started Visionaire.

And you kept in touch?

Bill and I went to his apartment when it started and helped put all the magazines into little plastic cases, so they were all clean and beautiful. I told Stephen that you have to save a good amount of copies of the first issues. He said he couldn’t afford to. I told him, “I’ll take 10 issues right now.” I bought them from him. Later on, he was getting invitations to speak and didn’t have the first issue. He called me and I gave him two, and he said I’d never have to buy another one ever again.

The collection keeps growing to this day.

Do you still love magazines?

No. Why not?

[Laughs] I’ve been disappointed by too many magazines that are supposed to be great. A long time ago, I’d go to a magazine store in Soho almost every day to see what was in there. I’d see great magazines that would disappear after two or three months. I realized that it was more important to get them in people’s hands than put them on newsstands. I was approached by different club owners from

HAPPY Dame

“

In our first year, we’d sit up all night putting stamps on the issues and getting them in the mail the next morning.

Limelight, Bowling Club, Underground, Danceteria, Studio 54, AM/PM, The Mudd Club, and Peppermint Lounge to start a magazine when [Flanders’ previous venture] The Soho Weekly News went out of business. I worked with each of the owners of the clubs who wanted to do this, and the deal was they would advertise and they would get more coverage of the clubs. We printed 10,000 copies and sent them out to the clubs’ lists, so there was no excess of Details in the first year.

Do you still have all your old issues?

I have all of them bound. These days, people collect them! They’re smart! It’s a really good magazine. That’s what everybody tells me. It’s not dated, but in a way it is with the things that are in there. People just love them. I read them again recently and it blows my mind how good it was.

You had a phrase—something like, “Details magazine was like Studio 54, and our doorman is your mailman…”

In our first year, we’d sit up all night putting stamps on the issues and getting them in the mail the next morning. The idea was that you couldn’t buy the magazine at that point—it was not for sale—but we’d deliver it to you directly.

Did it feel like a family?

Definitely. It was hard for me to fire anybody. I only had to fire two people.

When did the work day begin?

Very soon after we started, I realized that we were all going out to clubs at midnight.

The idea of going to work in the morning or even the afternoon was crazy. I decided that I needed the editorial and art department to be there by 4 p.m. We were there for eight hours and then we’d dress up and go to clubs all night.

Were there tons of drinks and drugs?

I wasn’t doing that, necessarily. For me, it was work. I went there to see how people put themselves together and how great they looked and to find people to write about. Clubs were a great source for stories. I’d say that most people were doing drugs, though.

What were the drugs?

That’s a very good question! It changed all the time. It was cocaine, Quaaludes— LSD was a little less popular by then—and, of course, pot.

What did it mean to be featured in Details?

It was always people that needed coverage. Bruce Weber would work for me all the time. One time he did a piece for an Italian magazine and they wouldn’t run it because they said there were no clothes, so he gave it to us.

What did you do for Bruce?

Everything. Nobody would publish his work because it was a new style—so genuine and so real. All he wanted me to do was bring this guy from Los Angeles to New York for a shoot, and he’d take care of it. The guy never ended up leaving. It was this gorgeous guy, Jeff Aquilon, who became the biggest name in New York. Calvin Klein picked him up immediately. He was shot on a mattress on the floor with his hands down his pants lying on a bed. It was incredible and almost caused riots. It was really wild. Bruce made that happen.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Do you still look for new talent?

I don’t have a vehicle for them, but I do help them a lot. I help photographers when they come out here. I do a lot of mentoring. That interests me more than fashion itself.

What do you think of fashion these days?

I can’t figure it out. It’s beyond. The outfits that people put together that are supposed to look good, 95 percent of the time, it looks terrible. I just don’t get it.

Do you still read Details?

For years, they said they’d send them to me, and I saw the editor at one party and he said he’d send them to me, but I never got them.

I was still always thrilled to see it on the newsstand. One day recently, they started coming to my mailbox. It changed so many times with so many different editors, but this one [Dan Peres] is really good.

Did you ever want to start another magazine?

No way. It’s a nice idea, but I led a very full and fantastic life, and I’m exhausted.

But it sounds like you’re happy on the West Coast.

I am! I like it a lot. Now I have a question for you: I was surprised by the quality of the paper, and how often you put out The Daily. Does some zillionaire own your magazine?

Not at all!

memories of ANNIE “Annie Flanders was an editor who gave you an adventure. She made a world you wanted to live in—never too hip, yet never too square. When she was at The Soho Weekly News, I was just starting out and working with Paul Cavaco and Kezia Keeble and we asked Annie for a plane ticket to fly the most handsome guy in the world from L.A. to New York City. The magazine didn’t have a cent; yet Annie paid for it herself, because she was so determined to see the sitting happen. That determination and passion for what she does best as an editor are the reasons why I’m still a photographer.”

—BRUCE WEBER “I was Annie’s caterer when she was style editor of The Soho Weekly News.

She knew I was a journalist as well, and when she told me about her concept for Details, to chronicle and define downtown New York, I was hooked. She convinced me not to write about food, but about going out to eat, because it’s always been one of my favorite things to do. And so “I’ll Eat Manhattan” was born. You want to know how special it was to work for Annie? Everyone at Details worked for IOUs for the first two years simply because we believed in her vision. She was willing to risk everything for it, so how could we not do the same? I learned that if you have nothing new to say about a subject, no fresh take on a place or happening, no insider view, then you have no business writing the story. Annie hated nose-pressed-up-against-the-glass, ink-stained wretch observational journalism. She was quick, quixotic, restless, endlessly inventive, ridiculously funny, supportive, mercurial, incisive, and totally in love with her partner, Chris.

With help from Ronnie Cooke’s keen eye and the everbrilliant photography of Bill Cunningham (Annie was his best collaborator), Annie opened everyone’s eyes to the fact that fashion wasn’t created solely on runways, and if fashion isn’t worn, it really doesn’t exist. It’s just showing off. Fashion is most valid when it’s dressing people living their lives.”

—HAL RUBENSTEIN b f anyc . c o m ( 2 ) ; p a t r i c k m c m u llan . c o m

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THE FRESSANGE

FACTOR Who better than the eternally joyful Inès de la Fressange to remind us how beautiful life can be? We caught up with the peripatetic creative force (Uniqlo designer, Roger Vivier brand ambassador, style tome author) in the blessed final days of her Provençal holiday. Take a lesson.

BY ASHLEY BAKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GILLES BENSIMON STYLING BY CAROLINE CHRISTIANSSON

How are you enjoying these last few days of summer?

It’s quite sad, because most of my friends went away and I feel lazy. I don’t want to go back to work! But it’s nice to have some real rest and a quiet moment to read, sleep, and do nothing.

Do you go to Provence every year?

Indeed, and it’s important for me to take long, long holidays. It’s great for the kids and for my friends also to come back every year and find the same things.

People are always looking for the new, but I don’t think that’s the path to happiness.

You seem pretty happy all the time. What’s your secret?

First, always think that things could be worse. Think of others, not only yourself, and accept the fact that not everything is at the top all the time. Things happen, FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Opposite Page: Lanvin dress and Roger Vivier pumps; This Page: Jean Paul Gaultier sailor top and tutu, and Roger Vivier sandals

happy Icon How important is friendship?

It is essential! If you are not able to love others and forget their tiny faults, you will never love yourself. Also, sharing what’s on your mind helps so much. And humor, obviously, and trying to help others. Sorry for all of these banalities— my brain has been left next to the swimming pool!

When did you first meet Gilles Bensimon, and why do you think you became such good friends?

I came to visit his secretary, who was a friend of mine.

That was a long time ago, when dinosaurs were still alive.

He took a picture of me in a black leather Perfecto, with no makeup and short hair. Ever since, I’ve appreciated his sense of humor—his talent but humility, and his way of working like a dilettante even if he is very serious in his work and we are quite sure the result will be perfect. He is very faithful in friendship and has a huge sense of fashion and elegance. Seeing his funny face arriving is always a great joy. And I must be precise in this— I am one of the only models on Earth who hasn’t been his lover!

How has your work contributed to your happiness?

My English is not good enough to understand your question. No, I’m kidding!

Being a model helped my shyness, and being a designer who creates products is absolutely fulfilling. But one must learn to be happy without being a workaholic. I’m so French!

What was the most fulfilling aspect of your collaboration with Uniqlo?

Okay, imagine you find a magical lamp that realizes all your desires for your wardrobe, only the genie is not blue but Japanese, and his name is Naoki Takizawa. Rather than a designer, I feel like a very lucky customer who gets all her wishes! This winter, for instance, I will have the perfect dark denim jeans I have always dreamed of. They are straight, but not too skinny or too large. They have copper buttons and the fabric is perfect. I can also say that about the tweed jackets without linings and the navy blue coat. Even though I did them, the prototypes were great surprises. I couldn’t imagine such quality.

And what’s new at Vivier?

Nothing! No, I’m kidding again. I am just getting used to success, but do you know that “Vivier” means, in French, a place where there are lots of things coming to life? Actually, this is the first time I realized it. It’s your scoop! We usually say that Vivier equals fish tank. Yes, indeed, there is always something happening at Vivier, but it’s always elegant, creative, chic, and trendy. This year, Ambra Medda is going to be our ambassador. Brilliant idea, yes?

It is, indeed. Any plans to write a follow-up to your book, Parisian Chic?

My editor goes to church every day to light a candle! But I really do have to do it. It was such a best seller, I am still amazed! Now I am sounding pretentious.

I should never do an interview on holiday.

All will be forgiven if you tell our readers your secret to eternal youth.

Ashley, you are my best friend! Listen, first I put some Revitalift from l’Oréal, but I tell you this secret only because you are my best friend. Second, I don’t think about the past, and usually I forget everything, which is much better.

Third, I take off my makeup every day, even late at night. Fourth, I sleep a lot.

Fifth, I still listen to the Rolling Stones on my iPod like a teenager. And last, I don’t criticize young people, and not even my neighbors. I accept the fact that I am not young anymore and don’t try to look young. In fact, I don’t think about it except when you ask me.

“

Imagine you find a magical lamp that realizes all your desires for your wardrobe, only the genie is not blue but Japanese, and his name is Naoki Takizawa.”

but the sun will come back. It always does. Smile, and the world will smile at you, and don’t try to change others. Also, see your friends and talk to them, and when you do complain, say that you realize it’s not that bad. Make some order in your life or throw things away—that always helps. Personally, being with my daughters is a great joy. I appreciate that they can still put up with me!

That’s great advice! Is there anything you credit in particular?

It’s about the attitude. When a work trip is canceled, an appointment is canceled, I feel it’s a gift of time. I am thrilled! When I get new clothes, I am still like a child receiving toys. I must confess that I love Fridays knowing the weekend is arriving. Urrghh. I’m going to seem so superficial and lazy in this article. What a shame! [Laughs] What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever received?

“You are able to do it,” which was coming from Karl Lagerfeld, which is always nice. Now I’m name-dropping—it’s getting worse and worse!

And the best advice you’ve given?

“Stop waiting for the charming prince and you will find him.”

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Opposite Page: jean top Fressange’s own, Christian Dior skirt, Azzedine Alaïa belt, and AIGLE rain boots; This Page: Azzedine Alaïa top and floral bouquet by Baptiste

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Spinning

A Webb

After 13 years in the biz, Marissa Webb spun out on her own to launch her eponymous label for Spring 2013. The industry took notice: In April, Webb was tapped to revamp Banana Republic’s look as the brand’s creative director and executive vice president of design.

BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

What was your earliest fashion memory?

I was a major tomboy growing up. It’s still the way I am now, but I also loved fashion. I’d roll around in the dirt during the day and read all my mother’s Glamour magazines at night. I remember taking sketches to her and saying, “What do you think of this?”

Where were you growing up?

I like to say I grew up in Pennsylvania, because that’s where the majority of my childhood memories happened, but we moved around a lot.

What did your parents think about your decision to go to FIT? They actually didn’t know that I transferred to FIT. I was very independent. I thought I was going to study psychology, then I decided I didn’t want to sit in an office all day.

What inspired you to start your own label?

Things just kind of happened organically—I landed an internship and from there, a full-time job. It’s a great way of learning about this industry, but after 13 years, it was time.

Do you think it was better that you gained experience first?

I don’t know, but I would say that the knowledge that you gain working in the industry is extremely valuable. So it helped me in a lot of different ways when I launched my own label.

What was the biggest learning curve when you first started?

I’m still learning, and I’ll be learning till the day I die! Honestly, the biggest learning curve is that when you start your own label, it’s not just about sitting down and designing. You design maybe one day out of one or two hundred. I always say that having your own line is like taking crash courses in HR, law, and accounting. I have to make sure that the water is here and the electricity is on.

Has it been scary?

If I ever panic, I give myself five minutes, and then go on. It’s the only way to stay focused.

Do you have any muses?

I have a girl crush! Cate Blanchett. There’s something so regal and cool about her. I don’t know her on a personal level, but I would say she would look amazing in a burlap sack. She just radiates.

What can we expect from your Spring 2015 collection?

I’m pretty consistent in my thought process for every season.

I have a hard structured side and a whimsical one of me as well.

I’ve been calling this season “East West.”

Who are you designing for?

Many different types of women. It can be a very classic type, who loves tailored items, or an adventurer, who does not fear stepping out in her personal style. She’s a tomboy with a little bit of femininity. I think you have to stay true to what you love and

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what inspires you, because if you don’t then it’s obvious. I look at what I’m sketching now, versus what I sketched at FIT, and it’s very consistent.

What was it like showing at Fashion Week for the first time?

The first time for my own label was intimidating, but at the same time, I try to take one day at a time and just keep on moving. I try not to be held back by fear, because that’s one of those things that can paralyze you. You just focus and everything always seems to get done. And it’s exciting once it does!

You also recently took on a big job at Banana Republic.

How crazy is your schedule?

I don’t think my schedule has actually changed that much. My sister recently said, “If you do not fill Marissa’s calendar, she will find a way to fill it.” So it’s still jam-packed, but I’m used to it. It’s a different kind of busy because I’m focusing on two different clothing lines, which is fun. Just imagine being able to have two lines! It’s great that our team is so supportive and they help me balance a lot. People are like, “What is your hobby?” and I’m like, “Working!” That’s a weird hobby, but…

Walk us through a typical day for you.

Yesterday, I got up at 5 a.m., and then I went until 9:30 p.m.

When you are really engaged in what you are doing and working with people you love to be around, the time flies and you don’t even feel tired. It’s important to be around that positive energy.

When will your first Banana Republic collection hit stores?

Summer 2015, in terms of a collection I’ve overseen from concept to completion, but what you can see is the new sensibility for Banana Republic in the styling, and the way we are communicating with our customers and the way that we are focusing on the store experience. There are strong designers there, so I’m just giving the direction, but they are amazing, so we are really excited about what’s coming.

How many people do you have working for your namesake label?

I have six full-time staffers, and we have PR as well.

Do you ever change runway looks the day of the show?

Oh, always. One of the models drops out, or you send something out to get fixed and it comes back looking completely the opposite of what you envisioned. Or maybe you’re waiting for that one piece that has gotten stuck somewhere. Sometimes those end up being happy accidents.

It’s part of the fun! If it’s easy, it’s not worth doing.

Where would you like to see the brand in 10 years?

I would love to see people walking around wearing it in the streets. The best feeling is when you see someone walking down the street in one of your items, or when some of the girls on my team will run in and say, “Hey! I just spotted this on the train!” My brand is only two and a half years old, so to spot someone on the train sitting across from you wearing one of the items is amazing! I like to take it one day at a time, but of course I would love for this label to be successful. I love having my own company and I love the team, especially.

I really want it to be successful for everyone.

What do you do for fun in your free time?

Free time is not something that’s in my vocabulary at the moment, but that’s okay. But when I need a break from working, I will say to my fiancé, “We need to watch a superhero movie, please!” I love action-hero movies. He’s like, “You are such a boy!” People always ask me why I like them, and I think it’s because they face so many challenges and yet they are successful. They always figure out a way to win at the end, and that’s inspiring. If they can face a thousand things that smashed them into the ground, then I can make my deadline.

HAPPY Joe How were you approached for the job?

What are some of the other ways Yahoo Style will be like a magazine?

The week it happened, I was at a dinner telling friends how I had just We’re going to be doing cover shoots. Every month will have an read a profile of Marissa Mayer, and that I liked what she was doing. exclusive story with images. When I was at ELLE, I did a cover of I mentioned that the tech world isn’t my world, but that she’s brazen Dakota Johnson. On Elle.com, it got a lot of views and comments, but in wanting to revolutionize it, and that I’m drawn to people who make when I went to Yahoo’s home page and the image was there, the same quick and easy decisions. Three days later, someone from Yahoo left a shot got thousands of comments in an hour. People were responsive to message on my cell phone. I really thought it was a friend from dinner what they were seeing, and not even sure of where it came from. We’re playing a joke on me. I don’t even think I called the person back, but a going to partner with magazines and put up their content, too. few days later they called back to follow up and that initiated things.

Who will be on the covers?

At first, I didn’t know exactly what it was. They had to explain to me all Celebrities, models, and tastemakers. The functionality on a the possibilities and the potential, because I’ve been a print guy for 25 newsstand is to sell magazines; my functionality will be to tell stories. years. As much as I love digital and social media, I had to think, What is Is it easy to book talent for Yahoo Style? this? What can it be? What was it? So I went to Silicon Valley and met I would like everything in life to be easy, but the demand for celebrity with Marissa and her team, and they said I could do whatever I wanted. isn’t ever easy. Period. It doesn’t matter what platform or outlet you The resources are infinite; the ideas are limitless. Yahoo is one of the want to use them for. The power of Yahoo’s 800 million users is huge, biggest tech companies in the world. It was a no-brainer. I didn’t want but every publicist has their own strategy for their clients. Sometimes to leave ELLE or print, but I couldn’t say no. numbers come in handy, and sometimes they don’t.

What were your first impressions?

It’s pretty unprecedented to book huge stars for an online magazine.

I’m obsessed with the whole culture. If you ever watch HBO’s Yeah! We’re doing a lot of exclusive photo shoots and fashion stories, Silicon Valley, it’s not that far but this isn’t just about me being a removed. I can go there in my jeans magazine editor online. I don’t want and sweatshirt, which is kind of the my site to be populated only by still real me! The first time I went there the life and runway. We have to shoot receptionist said, “I know you—you’re everything with a point of view. an engineer here!”

Which photographers are you Was your ELLE departure emotional? working with?

Absolutely. I’ve changed major jobs Bruce Weber is doing a short film for three times in my career and every us; we’re also working with Arthur single time I had to leave when I didn’t Elgort, and I’ve been obsessed with want to. I’m a fast and firm believer Pam Hansen lately. We’re working that if you’re looking for something, with a few young guys, too. I love you’re not going to find it. If you’re working with the established actively seeking a career change, it photographers and featuring new may never happen. It’s always the names and bringing them up and moment when you turn the corner grooming them. and someone is looking and waving How did you put your team Joe Zee rocked and shocked the fashion you down. In hindsight, the growth together? world when he announced he was has been incredible for me, and I We’ve brought on Sarah Cristobal, leaving his plum gig as ELLE’s creative believe in this. whom I’ve loved since she was at Any concerns about breaking the director to join Team Marissa Mayer as EIC Style.com. Dora Fung is our market news to Robbie Meyers? and executive creative officer of Yahoo Style. editor. She’s been at CR Fashion Oh, my gosh! Robbie, David Carey, Book and many Vogue editions, and As the online magazine launches this week, Michael Clinton… I wasn’t nervous, I she knows her fashion. Bifen Xu, our was sad. Robbie was my boss but also special projects director, is from W. all eyes are on Zee—and he’s perfectly okay my friend. I wanted her advice as a Nick Axelrod, a co-founder of Into with that. BY EDDIE ROCHE friend. They wanted me to stay, but the Gloss, will be a contributor. A PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO they understood why I wanted really good friend of mine, Andrea to leave.

Oliveri, has been booking the covers.

What was your last day like?

I’m super excited about this group. I wake up and say, “These are We went to the rooftop of the Dream Hotel and drank and ate chicken my people?” I never take sole credit for what I do. It’s always about wings. We stayed until the sun set, and Robbie stayed the whole time. everybody. It’s a strong team with opinions, and they’re plugged-in It was so sweet to have almost eight years of camaraderie with these and smart. guys who I’ve laughed with, fought with, and traveled with. There was Will you still be sitting front row at shows? a lot of reminiscing. You think, God! We’ve really come far!

If people will have me! I’ll be in New York, for sure. I’m going to London Did you take a break between ELLE and Yahoo? for Burberry and I’ll be at the tail end of Paris. Hedi Slimane is a friend, I shot an Old Navy campaign in the weekend between—I’m not good so I will absolutely be there to support him. My team will probably be with breaks. I’m a good busy bee. in Europe. Fashion Week has turned into Fashion Month, and that was What are we going to see at Yahoo Style? hard at a monthly magazine, but with a website, we’re updating daily.

It’s going to be a true reflection of me and what I am in the fashion I’ve been to my fair share of Fashion Weeks and I will miss it, but in world. I can absolutely sit here and talk runway, but also talk fashion the initial phase, we’re figuring out how we can cover content and on the street. How do you bring high-end and mass and have it live get it up. coherently? How do you marry those two things in a way that brings You also have a plethora of side projects! everybody to the party? Are we going to report on runway trends?

I’ve got TV projects coming up, and I’m Old Navy’s style ambassador Absolutely. Is it going to be tips on how to live day-to-day in the most this fall. I styled its entire campaign with [photographer] Dan Jackson. beautifully stylish way? Absolutely. We want to be helpful, fun, and I also have Styled by Joe Zee on QVC, which I love. I’m also putting the entertaining. I didn’t call it a digital magazine—Marissa did, and what finishing touches on my book, which is coming out next year. she meant was not a tangible flip book, but something you get on an You have so much energy, Joe! Is that from the free Red Bull in the emotional level. What she loves is the imagery and the captivating Yahoo kitchen? stories, and all of that is going to exist. I want people to be dazzled and When I started, the girls here said, “Come to Yahoo, and you’ll get the surprised every time they come to the site. freshman 15.” I hope not, but there are definitely a lot of snacks.

BUSY ZEE

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

HAPPY Exposé

Teri’s

Turf In her hotly anticipated new book, Hijacking the Runway, veteran Wall Street Journal scoopmistress Teri Agins tackles the celebrity onslaught and what it means for fashion. Be very afraid.

By Christopher TennaNT PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Without giving away too much, what’s the premise of Hijacking the Runway?

It all started with my last book, The End of Fashion, which came out in 1999. I had a chapter in there called “What Becomes a Legend Most? When Giorgio Armani Takes Hollywood,” where I started to document and explain the whole phenomenon of the red carpet, and how Armani was using movie stars and pop singers as billboards. He was the real game changer, starting back in 1991. Then, in 2005, I did a big page one story for the Journal about Jessica Simpson, who was doing her first jeans collection with Tarrant Apparel Group, and had just left her TV show. My story ended with the launch of Jessica’s jeans in big chains like Fashion Bug and Macy’s. I used her story as a way of showing where things were going and sort of went from there.

It’s a big topic. Where did you start?

Every time you do a complex story like this you just need to follow the money. At the Journal, we’re always trying to see who’s making the money, who’s gaining the market share, who’s cutting deals with whom. I didn’t just want to observe and describe the phenomenon; I wanted to explain in detail how the celebrity invasion has changed the industry. I interviewed over 125 people for this book, mostly on the record, and used my own institutional knowledge from my years covering fashion. I started at the Journal in 1984, and developed the fashion beat basically from scratch starting in 1989.

I gather there wasn’t a lot of serious business coverage of fashion outside of the trades back then.

There really wasn’t. But I had covered all sorts of other beats to prepare me for it, like the airline industry. When we first started the fashion beat, the question really was: How do we make this interesting to our readers, most of whom are men, who aren’t really interested in clothes? Fashion was playing an increasingly large role in the culture, and in finance, and we thought it needed to be covered in a serious way. So I started going to the shows and meeting people. Back then I was way in the back row along with Newsweek and Time, and I used to ask my colleagues, “What’s the deal? Why aren’t we up front? We have much bigger circulations then those other guys!” And they’d say, “The fashion designers think we’re not serious about this. They think we just parachute in to do a fashion story every once in a while.” At that point, it was mostly true. So that definitely stuck with me. Of course, it took a while for me to figure out how to engage the different designers. In general, I tried to come up with stories that were counterintuitive and provocative, and that we could prove. You know, everyone thinks this brand is big, but it really isn’t, or, everyone thinks it’s failing, but it’s a smash. I didn’t report gossip, and kept the focus on the money and the people, because people and their money is probably the sexiest thing you can write about. It helped that the Journal has a lot of impact. You write anything and it’s like, BOOM! I could compel people to talk to me. People would say, “Oh God, here comes Teri Agins again!”

The subtitle of your book is “How Celebrities Are Stealing the Spotlight From Fashion Designers.” Safe to say that’s a bad thing?

It’s not about being good or bad, it just is. This is how things have evolved, which was bound to happen because celebrities are such a major part of our culture now. It’s mutually beneficial in a lot of cases, too. Fashion is an emotional purchase, and brands need things to get people excited. It was the designers themselves in the ’80s and ’90s, and now it’s celebrities. My book shows how that evolution came to pass. It’s going to give people a lot of things to talk about, that’s for sure.

Fashion people often complain that the mainstream press doesn’t “get” the industry—that it covers fashion like a freakshow. Did you make a conscious effort to change that perception?

It’s true, and that disconnect is why we didn’t get any respect initially. The designers used to think most journalists were only there to make fun of them.

But fashion deserves the same level of scrutiny as the auto or the food industry.

It needs to be covered with seriousness. It helped that I was a serious fashion consumer as well. I was a fashionista before it was a word! In 9th grade my journalism teacher at Northwest Junior High School in Kansas City knew that I liked clothes so she had me do a fashion column. I called it “Teri’s Tips for Fashion Flair.” This was back in 1968.

You did some less serious stories at the Journal, too.

I did, and those were some of my favorites. “Big Boobs are Back,” when Cindy Crawford had just become a model, comes to mind, but even that was through the prism of business. My first big story, in 1990, which I actually won an award for, was about the designer Gordon Henderson and Ricky Sasaki, who now is deceased, but who was his financial backer. He wanted to turn Gordon into a big star, and it was about the tension between Ricky, who wanted to make money, and Gordon, who wanted to be an artist.

I ended up interviewing them and Ricky told me how much money he paid Gordon, which was basically unheard of. It was a real behind-the-scenes look at the relationship between a moneyman and a creative. That was the story that put me on the map. Oh,

and remember the whole $10,000-a-day supermodel thing? That was another one. After Linda Evangelista said those famous words, the designers decided they didn’t really want to spend that much after all and a number of them agreed they would all start paying runway models less, which is basically price-fixing. I was at a cocktail party at Bergdorf’s when I heard somebody talking about it, so I went home thinking there might be a story there. On a whim, I called down to the Washington bureau and they couldn’t help me, so I called the Justice Department. I said, “Hi, I’m Teri Agins from The Wall Street Journal and I’m calling about the Calvin Klein investigation.” I didn’t know anything—I just picked a random brand! And they said, “Oh, that’s in the criminal division. Let me connect you.” Suddenly, I had a story! It was one of those dumb luck things that happen when you’re a hungry reporter. Of course, as soon as my editors found out they said, “We’re running it tomorrow!” I was so scared. It was a huge deal.

Your experience covering the Pan Am bankruptcy paid off!

It helped immensely. Unlike most fashion reporters, I could actually read an income statement, I could read an earnings table—really basic journalism, but really important stuff when you’re doing these kinds of stories. Because I had the tools, I was able to put all the pieces together and write a smart piece. I was lucky enough to have great editors, too.

Fashion ads pay the bills now more than ever. Do you think there’s a disincentive to hire real reporters to cover the fashion beat?

I think we’re going through a funny time in journalism. It used to be that the career track for a young reporter was to work for a small paper and then climb your way up. In my case, I went to Wellesley undergrad because I decided I wanted to be a reporter after doing that little fashion column in the school paper. Then I was a summer intern at The Kansas City Star my sophomore year, and at The Boston Globe my junior year. After that I went to the University of Missouri journalism school for my master’s. That’s when I got some Ford Foundation money to do my master’s thesis on the government controlled press in Lima, Peru, where I lived for a few months. I ended up going to Brazil and took a little detour.

If I hadn’t, I would have gone to a small paper in someplace like Minneapolis or Louisville and covered the courthouse and the school board, stuff like that, while earning my stripes and waiting for the big call. I’m not sure what kind of training kids get now.

Do you remember when you got the big call?

My call was different because I had been living in Brazil. I got married right after grad school and my former husband, who was a banker, and I went to Brazil for five years when I was 25. I was a stringer for The New York Times and Fairchild News Service in Brazil and worked for a Brazilian supermarket magazine, and when I came back to the U.S. in’84 Norm Pearlstine, who was managing editor at the Journal at the time, hired me as a staff reporter. My first Journal beat was writing for the small business column. If you were out in the field and something happened you’d have to call in on a pay phone and dictate a seven-word headline! It was real shoe-leather reporting. I hate the fact that kids don’t get that type of exposure today.

It’s so fundamental, and it gives you so much confidence because you know you can be dropped into any story. I mean, some of my stories took weeks! I’d do nothing else but straight reporting for six weeks, working night and day. We’d end up with these 2,500 word stories that were just packed full of information and details and really sophisticated analysis, of the sort that’s missing in fashion journalism these days. The stories I wrote weren’t necessarily about the artistry of fashion, because I wasn’t a fashion critic. I went to the shows more to find sources and stories. The good clothes to me were the clothes that made money. That was the way we evaluated things. I think it would be nice if the young reporters would use more of that sort of rigor.

They’d find they end up with much sexier stories, too!

Do you think we’ve reached peak celebrity? Can a celeb build a lasting brand?

I think they probably could, but it depends. There are so many factors, and the fashion industry is hard. I mean, there are so many people perceived by the fashion industry to be successful that really aren’t, because of all the hype surrounding everything, whether it’s a big show, or a CFDA award, or they open a lot of stores, or a show like Project Runway. People look at certain designers and think they must be selling tons, but that does not necessarily mean they are. All you have to do is look at Marc Jacobs or Michael Kors and what it took, and how long it took, for them to really take off.

It’s much harder even than it was back in the ’90s. It’s a global market. The U.S. is so crowded with brands and everything so to try to break in can seem impossible. It’s a fun industry, though, and I have loved writing about it. It’s filled with creative, quirky personalities, and a lot of funny things can happen!

“

Fashion deserves the same level of scrutiny as the auto or the food industry. It needs to be covered with seriousness!

Orange

CRUSH

Dries Van Noten’s eye-popping mix of colorful prints and shine for Fall was a combo worth mimicking. Turns out some other designers were loving this tangerine hue, too.

Dries Van Noten Fall 2014

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

$825

3.1 Phillip Lim, 115 Mercer St., (212) 334-1160

$640

Stella McCartney, 112 Greene St., (212) 255-1556

$2,095

Valentino, 693 Fifth Ave., (212) 772-6969

$275

FINDS + Karen Walker Net-A-Porter.com

Fendi, 677 Fifth Ave., (212) 759-4646

$734

Roger Vivier, 750 Madison Ave., NYC, (212) 861-5371

$2,186

$2,990

Valextra, Net-A-Porter.com

$1,750

$603 MSGM,

Fendi, 677 Fifth Ave., (212) 759-4646

MatthewWilliamson.com

$298

Diane von Furstenberg, 847 Washington St., (212) 741-6607

$975

Matthew Williamson, MatthewWilliamson.com

$788

Roksanda Ilincic, MatchesFashion.com R u n way: F i r s t V i e w ; All others courtesy

CHIC spree

Botkier New York

“The new collection really encompasses the Botkier girl— she’s strong, assertive, and edgy which you see in each style.”

—Monica Botkier

$248

Leroy clutch in cobalt

All available at Botkier.com FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

$298 Soho tote in cobalt

$398

Leroy satchel in purple

$198

Trigger crossbody bag in nutmeg

$248

Trigger small messenger bag in soft grey

$298

Leroy crossbody bag in red

$448

Mercer satchel in purple

$298

Trigger satchel in black

$248

Leroy clutch in black

$498

Great Jones hobo bag in cobalt

$298

Logan small hobo bag in nutmeg

$448

Trigger satchel in cobalt python embossed leather

$298

Logan messenger bag in blue

all photos courtesy

HAPPY Stakeout

id. a s nce o e t icet logger- ts in h c ise ion b hear tion w e, a e fash d our roduc e r f t it on, th apture way p ngs to til e s , ng evins first c road e belo er un r i h t e B th, sh ssed h of he me avi G who h o t s T m ng in r You e mi a few ve h o o t l i n AN e i w w u M u r h d o s D h e r p i O y c If o it ltural ow sta his Is w mu d quizz AH FEL s d An ed-cu hts. N an’s T lize ho re an BOR E D t g turn ate au Lonerg n’t rea t Thea URTO & l the enneth We did the Cor FANIA C . of K adway out at BY STE Bro amped GRAPHY we c PHOTO s. fan

Nancy Vaughn, ageless, retired

PreSHOW POLL:

The Audience Speaks!

Adrianna Harris, 18, student What do you know about Tavi?

Not too much.

Really? She’s a celebrated teen fashion blogger! Do you have a blog?

I used to have a Tumblr.

Are bloggers-slash-actors the next big thing?

I don’t see how they’re connected. I can see actors becoming fashion bloggers because they’re around fashion a lot, though.

What do you think the show will be about?

Drug use? Something like that.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

What made you come see the show?

I read the review in New York magazine.

Did you read the Tavi cover story?

I didn’t see that, but I love everything the Steppenwolf Theatre Company does.

So what do you know about Tavi?

I’d actually never heard of her. Wait, was there a story in The New York Times about her?

There have been several.

Okay, then I guess I do know about her.

Do you blog?

Do I look like someone who blogs?

Name Withheld, 57, baker What brings you to the theater?

I just sold my apartment and I’m moving to Colorado. I never thought I’d live anywhere else.

What do you know about Tavi?

Nothing.

Knowing nothing, do you think she could play Stella in Streetcar?

Does she have the chops? That’s a pretty intense role. Women don’t always get the juicy roles, so it’d be great to switch it up a little.

Tavi as Hamlet?

Sure, why not?

Hanakl, 20, student What brings you here?

Tavi! I’m a big fan.

What do you love about her?

She’s different. She used to be in fashion and now she’s acting on Broadway. Isn’t that everyone’s dream? She’s only 18!

Is Broadway the new Condé?

What?

If Bryanboy wanted to act on Broadway, what show would you cast him in?

Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.

How do you think Tavi will fare as an actress?

I read the out-of-town reviews and everybody is saying she’s amazing, but I have no expectations.

TAVI GREETS HER PUBLIC!

After the show, more than 40 fans were waiting outside, anxious to get a peek at fashion’s pint-size prodigy. (Sorry about the photo. A cop asked us to turn off our flash.) Tavi thanked everyone and apologized for “kidnapping” someone’s Sharpie.

Multiple awkward selfies were taken. Moments later, a town car whisked her into the New York night, presumably to Sardi’s. But we did manage to fire off a question!

THE DAILY: Which is harder: blogging or acting?

TAVI: Acting! Definitely! ... And like that, she was gone.

Post-SHOW POLL: The Reviews Are In!

Agnes Carlowizz, 19, Barnard student Were you here to see Tavi?

I was, though I’m more of a Michael Cera fan.

How was her performance?

It was really strong.

Do you think more fashion bloggers should try acting?

If that’s what’s right for them.

It’s not an easy thing to do!

Are you going to ask her for an autograph?

Of course I am. Come on!

Megan Patsel, 21, student Pop quiz! What did Tavi do before she hit the boards?

She was a fashion blogger.

How was she?

I think she’s talented. I’m jealous!

What other roles could you see her in?

She reminded me of Michelle Williams with her hair. I just saw Cabaret and she’d be a good Sally Bowles.

You should work in Hollywood!

Have you ever blogged?

Just about nail polish.

Charlotte, 22, intern Did you know of Tavi before you saw the show?

Not really, but kind of. I looked her up because of the show.

Bloggers-turned-actors—is this a new trend?

I hope so! I run a plus-size fashion blog, so I hope that leads me getting onto Broadway.

What’s your blog?

Fat-Sass on Tumblr.

What other roles can you see Tavi in?

She could do the sister from Next to Normal if that comes back.

Maybe Cinderella?

Adrianna Harris, 18, student Did you come here to see Tavi?

I did. She’s from Rookie, which I got into about a year ago. I agree with everything it stands for. It’s part of who I am.

Are you surprised she ended up on Broadway?

She’s one of those girls who can do anything. So, no, I’m not surprised.

What other roles might she play?

Mame Dennis in Mame?

I don’t even know what that is!

That’s sad. Angela Lansbury, hello?

Oh, I love Angela Lansbury!

Lily Grossberg, 17, student What was it like to finally meet Tavi in the flesh!

It was pretty cool, I guess.

Being from New York you meet a lot of famous people.

Do you think she’ll win a Tony?

I doubt it. It’s her first role!

Who are you wearing today?

A T-shirt from camp and pants from Forever 21. g e tty imag e s ( 3 ) ; sh u tt e rst o ck

Anna Dello Russo

Anna Wintour

You’ve tried every other trend, why not this one? These days, you’ve got to blend in to stand out!

Give the floral prints and Manolos a rest, darling!

Fleece is the new fur.

Glenda Bailey

Now that being average is in, it’s time to get off the stilettos and into comfy everything.

CHIC Overs Normcore Edition!

Karl Lagerfeld

Cargo pants for Karl? Ja, please! Nobody Chanels main street like the Kaiser.

Peter Marino

From leather daddy to diaper duty!

John Galliano

Why not start fresh with a career in sales?

Rick Owens

From avantgarde genius to Apple store genius bar.

Behold the magic of khaki!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Lynn Yaeger

A sensible blazer paired with boot-cut denim never looked du moment. Leave the hair as is.

Orange is the new black! g e t t y i mag e s (8) ; b fa n yc . c om (8) ; s h u t t e r s t o c k

BLOOMINGDALE’S SOUTHAMPTON 53C Jobs Lane

magaschoni.com Daily Front Row Ad.indd 1

7/29/14 4:46 PM

chic Map

Here, There

& Everywhere!

Pier 94, 55th St. and West Side Hwy

S 5 pm Alexander Wang T 4 pm Marc by Marc

Jacobs

To get to all your favorite shows this season, you might need a little more than Fashion GPS. A helicopter, perhaps?

547 West 26th St.

11 West 42nd St.

S 1 pm DKNY M 4 pm Donna Karan

T 6:30 pm Oscar de la Renta

New York

Skylight at Moynihan Station, 360 West 33rd St.

Center 548, 548 West 22nd St.

S 12 pm Prabal Gurung M 8 pm Rag & Bone

F 8 pm Suno S 1 pm Rebecca Taylor

Location 05, 509 West 34th St. S 11 am Jill Stuart

545 West 22nd St.

T 11 am Vera Wang S 2 pm Yigal Azrouel

560 Washington St.

T 10 am Ralph Lauren

Collection

Skylight Clarkson Sq. Studio III, 330 West St.

M 3 pm 3.1 Phillip Lim

Pace Gallery, 534 West 25th St. T 12 pm Creatures of

the Wind

Skylight Modern, 537 West 27th St.

F 2 pm Sally Lapointe S 6 pm Edun

Artbeam, 540 W. 21st St. S 4 pm Christian Siriano S 2 pm Tracy Reese M 2 pm Milly by Michelle

Smith

Spring Studios, 50 Varick St. MADE Fashion Week at Milk Studios, 450 West 15th St. T F F T W W

S S S W T

8 pm Altuzarra 12 pm Hood By Air 5 pm Diane von Furstenberg 10 am Michael Kors 2 pm Calvin Klein

3 pm Costello Tagliapietra 10 am Peter Som 3 pm Cushnie et Ochs 10 am Timo Weiland 1 pm Jeremy Scott 9 pm The Blonds

Industria Superstudio, 775 Washington St. F 4 pm Nonoo

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Sean Kelly Gallery, 475 10th Ave. S 12 pm Derek Lam

151 West 26th St. Highline Stages, 441 West 14th St.

F 11 am Wes Gordon S 3 pm Tibi

S 2 pm Ralph Rucci

Lincoln Center T 10 am BCBGMAXAZRIA

The Theatre

T 5 pm Marissa Webb

The Salon

T 7 pm Todd Snyder

The Pavilion

F 3 pm Rebecca Minkoff

The Pavilion

F 6 pm Nicole Miller

The Salon

S 10 am Lacoste

The Theatre

S 2 pm Mara Hoffman

The Salon

S 3 pm Hervé Léger by Max Azria

The Theatre

S 7 pm Nanette Lepore

The Salon

M 9 am Lela Rose

The Pavilion

M 10 am Carolina Herrera

The Theatre

M 1 pm Dennis Basso

The Theatre

T 9 am Tory Burch

Avery Fisher Hall

T 2 pm Naeem Khan

531 West 36th St.

The Theatre

W 4 pm Reed Krakoff

W 6 pm Anna Sui

The Theatre

T 1 pm J. Mendel

The Theatre

Metropolitan West, 639 West 46th St.

S 8 pm Versus Versace

Seventh Regiment Armory, 643 Park Ave. M 11 am Tommy Hilfiger T 8 pm Marc Jacobs

te

SIR Stage37, 508 West 37th St.

T 8 pm Narciso Rodriguez

3 East 54th St.

M 6 pm Zac Posen

The Legend T Thursday, September 4 F Friday, September 5 S Saturday, September 6 S Sunday, September 7 M Monday, September 8 T Tuesday, September 9 W Wednesday, September 10

YOUR CHARIOT AWAITS!

T Thursday, September 11

b fa n y c . c o m ( 2 5 ) ; patrickmcm u lla n . c o m ( 2 1 ) ; sh u tterst o ck ; all o thers c o u rtes y

PAPER Trail

meet YOUR NEW OFFICE! So kind of vous to

share the floorplan...

EVP, chief revenue officer, publisher

hallway

EIC

creative director

15x4’ 3 3 photo director 4x4’

Mr. coffee + DRINKING FOUNTAIN

Associate Publisher 50x20’

COLOR PRINTER [depending on budget]

beauty director (advertising)

marketing guru

art department

rolling rack overflow

30x20’

rolling rack overflow

30x20’

nONENDEMIC SALES DUDE

[Just cram them all around one big table]

breezeway

30x20’

3

beauty director (editorial) 9x8 3

Fashion Director (Advertising) 38x20’

Fashion Director (Editorial) 20x19’

3

fashion closet

Colleagues, After reviewing the floorplans for our spectacular new downtown offices, several of you—most of you—have expressed some degree of concern about certain space allocations. Let me first say that your complaints are heard, and I will address each one separately: GENERAL LACK OF OFFICE SPACE: It’s true that we will occupy considerably less square footage, but in this new economy, we emphasize quality over quantity.

The building’s finishings and furnishings will not disappoint, to say nothing of the ultra-luxe amenities, like the fact that Black Seed Bagels is a mere 7-minute walk away.

38x20’

60x20’

MEMO From: [redacted], Chief Executive Officer To: Editors-in-Chief and Group Publishing Honchos Re: Our Imminent Move Downtown

fashion girl 3x3’ fashion girl 3x3’

3 fashion girl 3x3’

3 fashion boy 3x3’

3

fashion girl assistant 3x3’ 3 as many interns as possible 1.5x2’

3 bookings director 4x4’ 3 research director 4x4’ 3 copy chief 4x4’ 3 EXECUTIVE EDITOR 4x4’ 3 DEPUTY EDITOR 4x4’ 3 ENT. DIRECTOR 4x4’ 3 FEATURES DIRECTOR 4x4’ 3 ONLINE EDITOR 4x4’ 3 SOCIAL MEDIA PERSON 4x4’ 3 BLOGGER TYPE 4x4’ 3 INSTAGRAM STAR 4x4’ 3 EVENTS DIRECTOR 4x4’ 3 PR DIRECTOR 4x4’ 3 PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR 4x4’

LACK OF OFFICES: Becoming a department head is a serious accomplishment, but becoming the head of an important, revenue-generating department is worthy of an office. Yes, this means that some of your key senior staffers will find themselves back in cubicles, but we consider this to be an effective management strategy, as it will create a sense of camaraderie between the “boss” and “peon” contingencies at each publication.

THE SO-CALLED “STUDY CARRELS”: Several of you have quite indelicately suggested that the desks we have allocated to junior employees are little more than computer stands. We would like to politely remind you that millenials, many of whom have only recently graduated from college, thrive in small spaces. Many of them even profess a preference for what they refer to as “tightly-edited” living and working conditions.

In fact, our standard employee monitoring program informs us that many of these young people live in studio apartments of less than 200 square feet. We are simply attempting to engage them on their level.

OMISSION OF SEVERAL MAGAZINES: Yes, it does appear that we have “forgotten” to place some of you fine folks. You’ll be hearing from us soon.

Until we meet again (at Umami Burger!), [redacted]

EMAIL from [redacted], editor-inchief of [redacted], to [redacted], editor-in-chief of [redacted] Just got the floorplan of my new office.

What are we supposed to do—use the same communal bathrooms as the rest of the staff?!?!

T h e D a i l y f r o n t r o w • fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m FASHIONWEEK D AILY. COM

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