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ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y
jane birkin in paris, 1969
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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What’s all the fuss about?
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ARE YOU ICON MATERIAL? Do you know your Tommy from your Tome, your Wixson from your Blixen, your Lang from your Wang? Take the test! By ASHLEY BAKER
A. He’s back at The Gap B. He’s the new chairman of Outdoor Voices C. He’s teaming up with Jenna Lyons on a new line of overly whimsical accessories D. He’s teaching at SoulCycle
2. What is the Mailroom? A. The total hellhole that lost your personal order of Gianvito Rossis! B. A new club in Lower Manhattan from Surf Lodge owner Jayma Cardoso C. The UPS-sponsored blogger lounge at Skylight Clarkson Square D. The only place in publishing that’s still receiving a lot of resumes
3. Where is Tommy Hilfiger showing this season? A. The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam B. The Park Avenue Armory C. His palatial Fifth Avenue estate D. The Roundhouse in London
4. What’s next for Lindsey Wixson?
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A. An eponymous lip gloss line B. A career in pottery C. A top-secret project with Miuccia D. A travel book with Assouline
5. Reed Krakoff ’s East Hampton estate is on the market for… A. $5.4 million B. $56.2 million C. $34.995 million D. $2.2 million plus a lifetime supply of Boxer bags
6. How many ad pages ar in Vogue Italia's September issue? A. 333
B. 421 C. 697 D. 211
7. C’est qui, the “editor-in-residence” at Helmut Lang? A. Nicole and Michael Colovos B. Rick Owens C. Shayne Oliver D. Isabella Burley
8. Which brand is NOT developing new uniforms for United Airlines? A. Brooks Brothers B. Tracy Reese C. Eddie Bauer D. Carhartt
9. The Tom Ford tuxedos worn by servers at The Grill in New York City are valued at… A. $1,500 B. $3,200 C. $4,000 D. $6,000
Bronfman and the revamped Roomba C. Bridget Marquardt and a bottle of dry shampoo D. Anna Victoria and “the all-new 2017 Jeep Compass”
12. Who has the fewest followers on Instagram? A. Adam Rapoport B. Jay Fielden C. Jim Moore D. Michael Hainey
13. What’s the latest with Narciso Rodriguez? A. He’s now the father of twins! B. He’s showing in Paris C. He’s collabing with Banana Republic D. He’s consulting for The Row— top secret!
0–4 correct responses: YOU ARE…BEBE NEUWIRTH
10. What recently made model Roosmarijn de Kok shed some tears? A. Watching the end of Marley & Me B. Enduring a particularly grueling DogPound workout C. Hearing the news that she’s walking in the Victoria’s Secret show D. Getting a false eyelash stuck in her eye
11. Who appears on the September 2017 cover of Shape Magazine? A. Maria Sharapova and an avalanche of gummy bears B. Hannah
A living legend, but fashion’s not your thing. Devour your Daily, camp out at Skylight, buy yourself some Instagram followers, and let’s regroup next season.
5–9 correct responses: YOU ARE…SAMANTHA BEE You’re a total It girl—now you need to fine-tune your fashion savvy. Required reading: Joan Juliet Buck, Edmonde Charles-Roux, Alicia Drake, Andrew Morton, Lauren Weisberger, and every back issue of The Daily. It’s on issuu.com, chérie!
10–13 correct responses: YOU ARE…BEE SHAFFER You’re so insider, your fiancé is the subject of a feature in this issue! See you at the FMAs, gorgeous. ANSWERS: 1. B; 2. B; 3. D; 4. B; 5.C; 6. A; 7. D; 8. C; 9. D; 10. C; 11. D; 12. B; 13. A
1.What’s the latest with Mickey Drexler?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
SELE GOM NA ALEREZ T!
Expect to see the seriously cool starlet sitting front row at—where else?—Coach 1941.
Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO
What Will You Be Wearing This Week?
bonjour, darlings!
What a long, luscious summer it’s been—but aren’t you glad to be back? In this complicated age for fashion and media, we’re even more elated to be celebrating and chronicling vous all day long in six glorious issues (and at our Fashion Media Awards, bien sûr). Despite all the time we’ve spent admiring your work products—and outfits—on our phones, we firmly believe that there’s nothing like holding an oversize glossy in your (well-manicured) hands and consuming media in the way the fashion gods intended. Here’s to a week of dish, deliciousness, and fullon immersion in the healing powers of chic!
things uss! to disc Edward Enninful, the buzzy British Vogue editor who will be the talk of the front row, even though his first issue (December) doesn't hit the stands until November 10. Are we the only ones who heard the rumor that Janet Jackson will grace the Shayne Oliver’s cover? return to NYFW, courtesy of Helmut Lang. Bring back the bag tags, sweetie…
The Daily Wonders, part 1 Which A-lister was desperate to come to the show of one of America’s hottest heritage brands…and was (politely) told that she would not be receiving an invite?
CUSTOMIZE THIS!
Forgot to score new fall boots? Stuart Weitzman has launched a made-toorder program, in which you can create your favorite silhouettes in tons of great colors and materials. The program is offered at Stuart Weitzman’s Madison Avenue, Fifth Avenue, Soho, and Columbus Circle stores, and at stuartweitzman.com. Hurry— it ends September 10! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Mark Tevis
Philipp Plein! Now that his show is directly before Alex Wang’s, he’d better not run late!
Tom Ford, of course. Will you like, love, or worship?
Publisher
GOLDIE DOES POLITICS!
Daily fave Melisa Goldie, the marketing maestro who made it rain for Calvin Klein, has transitioned into a career in…politics! That’s right, folks— she’s been named the CMO of Republican Paul Massey’s NYC mayoral campaign. “She will ensure Paul’s message of innovation, inclusion, and integrity resonates with all New Yorkers,” a campaign spokesperson told the Post. Can’t wait to watch the politique unfold!
Nicki Minaj (right) and Future are expected to perform at the after-party.
The Daily Wonders, part 2 Which fortysomething lifestyle blogger with less than 90K followers on IG is asking for a $7,500 appearance fee to attend a fashion brand’s cocktail party—you know, the ones that top editors hit up every single day? We are so in the wrong business!
daily doubles
Brigitte Macron
“Noir et Chanel.”
Valerie Salembier
MAYBELLINE 411 On Saturday night, Maybelline New York will reveal its hottest new product launches at a NYFW party with V Magazine. And don’t forget to pop by The Shop @ NYFW, powered by IMG and located in the Meatpacking District, which will carry straight-off-therunway merch and beauty products from Maybelline New York.
“A burial shroud made of discarded step-andrepeats.”
Executive Sales Director Stephen Savage Account Manager Cristina Graham Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Manager Carey Cassidy
“Probably a straitjacket?”
Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
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The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste. 301, New York, NY 10107.
On the cover: Jeremy Scott and Miley Cyrus in Jeremy Scott, photographed by Rony Alwin.
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The Daily’s Fashion Media Awards, happening tomorrow night at the Four Seasons NY Downtown. Mario! Kendall! Lena! Watch this space for all the joie…
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Creative Director Jill Serra Wilde Fashion Editor Paige Reddinger “Elle, my metallic Senior Editor silver Loewe Kristen Heinzinger Elephant clutch. The Associate Editor only kind of pet Sydney Sadick I can handle!” Art Directors John Sheppard, Magdalena Long Contributing Photo Editor Hannah Turner-Harts Contributing Designer Sara Neher Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Copy Editors Joseph Manghise, Teri Duerr Imaging Specialists RJ Hamilton, George Maier
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PARTY REPORT!
Mert & Marcus are toasting their new eponymous book tonight at Public. The after-party is slated to last until 4 a.m. We’re gonna be sluggish tomorrow.… • Harper’s Bazaar is toasting its anniversary with a bash at the Plaza on Friday night, and The Weeknd (currently starring on the mag’s cover) is slated to perform. • Brett Heyman is unveiling a new logo and brand identity for Edie Parker with a “FAKE NEWSstand” and accompanying party at the Paley Media Center on the 11th.
That make Giovanna Battaglia Engelbert feel like she’s on vacation! Central Park is the perfect getaway to escape the day-to-day rush of the city. It’s a narnia of sorts. I love taking walks or running here when I need a moment away. Bergdorf Goodman is a Willy Wonka factory of fashion! The windows bring you into fantastic, elegant dreams of your imagination. It’s a good escape with girlfriends for a shopping day. I love the Cantor Roof Garden Bar at the Met because it feels like you’re floating on top of the world. It’s covered with grass and trees! I love running on the West Side Highway because on the left you have the city and the right you have the water. The picturesque view of the river calms you down. Pietro Nolita makes me feel like I’m home on holiday. The healthy Italian cooking at this restaurant reminds me of how my mother would cook when I was growing up in Italy. But overall, I love to work, so New York is the city where I am most productive. I enjoy every moment—work becomes a holiday!
Vacation spots along the Mediterranean are all abuzz with rumors of major changes that will rock one of Italy’s biggest fashion brands. The characters include an aging creative director, a young(er) Italian hotshot who has been mostly working abroad, and an imminent dethroning. We’ll let you do the math!
THE TIEMODEL These over-the-knee boots were inspired by the iconic HIGHLAND thigh-highs and were designed to flatter the contours of the leg. Classic kitten heels— a must-have detail this season—are paired with a pointed toe for a sexy and streamlined effect. Wear with a thigh-grazing shift dress and a structured duster coat. $885, stuartweitzman.com PROMOTION
Michelle Lee
Major achievement Champions Bans feminism “anti-aging”
#OBSIXED FOR 7
Week of September 7–13 Obsixed: Six coveted or can’tlive-without items that make for a fashionable lifestyle. dallas shaw
1 2 3 4 5 6
Coconuts perfume by Sunday Forever Phytovolume Actif Volumizing Spray by Phyto CPM Intensifying Liquid Eyeliner by Clé de Peau Beauté Hats by Goorin Bros. Superstar sneakers by Golden Goose Mini Piper Backpack by Want Les Essentiels
SHOP THE LIST ON STORYANDRAIN.COM
PROMOTION
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Remember when you relied only on shadow to create serious statement eyes? Thanks to Maybelline New York’s Master Precise Ink, your eyeliner can how handle the entire job. With a smart-tip brush, this miraculous liquid liner creates precise lines and comes in a range of colorful, metallic, and glitter finishes that last for up to 12 hours! BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Master Precise Ink, available in Black Comet, Galactic Metal, Cosmic Purple, Violet Nova, Teal Galaxy, Stellar Sand, and Solar Gold, $8.99, maybelline.com PRO TIP: Start by creating an outline, and then fill it in with saturated color. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Gloria Steinem
Sample Coverlines “Women’s Studies “Yes, Vaginal Under Fire,” “Thank Beauty is Having a You, Title IX” Moment,” “Is Botox Feminist?”
THIS JUST IN!
shoe of the daily
Spiritual Leader
Advertising strategy Accepts only Accepts ads from mission-driven beauty brands, or nonprofit many of whom owe advertising their success to anti-aging formulas Sound bIte we love! “When I was “…My biggest hosting the Today advice is to learn show, I had a little about business and fat removed from marketing.” above my eyes so I —Michelle Lee to didn’t look like Mao ed2010.com Zedong and I could wear my contacts.” —Gloria Steinem to Time magazine
PLUS…
the industry WEIGHS IN!
Amy Kamin, CEO of Endymed Inc., is among the mavericks behind the NEWA Skin Rejuvenating System, which is selling like gangbusters on QVC. Do you have any negative feelings about the word “anti-aging”? Of course not! If you weren’t allowed to describe your product as anti-aging, how would you describe it? Preventative, wrinkle-reducing, and youth-preserving. I do understand where Allure is coming from with this big statement—everyone should be comfortable with how they look as they age. On the other hand, I don’t think there is anything negative about wanting to preserve a youthful appearance. Do you specifically buy products because they claim to have anti-aging benefits? Without a doubt!
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FIVE PLACES IN NYC
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T WEN T Y T WEN T Y V I S ION
It’s hard to believe that eternally youthful Jeremy Scott has been in the business for two decades. The Daily revisited the past with the people’s designer to discuss his origin story, his brand’s longevity, and his plans for the future. By eddie roche PHOTOGRAPHY BY rony alwin
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Jeremy Scott photographed with Miley Cyrus, a close friend and frequent muse. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Let’s look back to 1997. Why did you throw yourself into this crazy fashion business? Honestly, it came out of a necessity to express myself. When I moved to Paris, I hoped to get an internship and later have a job. I couldn’t seem to get either, and I was frustrated. I was homeless, staying on the floor of this French guy’s apartment, and complaining. The guy said, “Well, if you’re so good, then why don’t you do it yourself?” That was it. It triggered me to say, “Fine, f**k you! I’ll make my own show!” It wasn’t about the start of a lifetime career—it was more thinking about ways to express myself, and seeing where that took me. It was like a firecracker—it lit up, and went from the first show to the next one to the next one. Here I am, 20 years later! How did you pay for the first collection? I sold pieces from my graduation show. My sister bought me a sewing machine, and my mother helped me source the paper hospital gowns that I wanted to use to make the dresses. Very couture! I asked for tons of favors. I knew people who were throwing parties in Paris, and they helped me get a venue. Pablo [Olea, Scott’s longtime right-hand man] walked around and hand-delivered something like 500 invites because we didn’t have money for stamps. It was really a labor of love. What was that first collection like? It was inspired by the J.G. Ballard book Crash and this idea of body modification, which was the name of the collection. Car accidents, cars, and plastic surgery—you modify your body like you can modify a car. One of the things I created was a high heel that had no shoe—it had a bone-colored heel, and then wrapped around your ankle like a bandage. What was the reaction to the collection? I actually got one of the biggest reviews that you could get at that time—it went on Marie-Christiane Marek’s TV show, Paris Premiere. Soon, everyone in France knew who I was. I went into my second show with big support from French publications and media. By the third show, the Americans and other international editors and buyers came. News traveled differently back then!
What was the Paris scene like at the time? It was all about old houses and old designers. Around the time of my first show, John Galliano was just going to Givenchy. There wasn’t really a youth culture in fashion, not like what we have today. I was a little kid with pimples, and everyone else was an adult. I promise you, I had pimples—that’s not a euphemism!—but that dynamic made it kind of exciting. Here was this spunky kid from America in Paris, riding around on a BMX bike, and somehow, it just captured people’s imaginations. They wanted to hear what I had to say, and I was pushing a new aesthetic. Do any collections stick out as particularly difficult? They’re all hard! It’s a cruel business. Any design regrets? Absolutely not. They were all genuine expressions of that moment. Whether I particularly love it or don’t, I respect that it was who I was at that moment. I was all-in for whatever I was believing in. Fashion is an expression of the moment—it’s so much about context. Who are some of your all-time favorite frontrow guests? One of my early supporters and tried-and-true friends was Isabella Blow, who came to my third show and then became a huge champion. She beat the drum with my name on it so loud and so proud. I always cherish the memory of Issie at all the shows. Debbie Harry came last season, and that was a big wow moment. Neneh Cherry was a teen hero whom I loved when I was growing up, and she came to my show in London. Of course, my girl Katy [Perry] came, and my girl Miley [Cyrus] came, and my girl Nicki [Minaj] came. My girls always come through, and that’s always super wonderful and supportive. I’m also extremely lucky to be able to have my family come to the shows. Tell us more about your relationship with Isabella Blow. She was one of the people who made me want to move to Europe in the first place. When I graduated from Pratt [Institute], New York was not very exciting. Marc Jacobs had just left Perry Ellis and was starting his own line, but there weren’t a lot a of things that I felt a kinship to like I did with European designers, makeup artists, stylists, and editors. Issie was really high on my love-letter list of people who really
STELLA MAXWELL
Jeremy’s Greatest Hits!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
“Jeremy is fun and imaginative, and it’s a pleasure to collaborate with him. His sense of style is wonderful, colorful, and exciting, which is not too shocking, considering he as a person can be described with those same adjectives. I’m so proud of Jeremy and his accomplishments. I’m also proud to call him not only a colleague, but a friend. Jeremy, I wish you another 20 years of health and success and another 20 after that. Much love.”
fascinated me. She came around and met me, and was really into my work. She helped me try to find sponsorships, the right manufacturers…. She was one of the most supportive patrons of the arts that I have ever experienced. She’d give the last cent in her purse to help an artist, and she wouldn’t worry about how she’d eat dinner. She was generous to a fault. I keep my moments with her in a little treasure box inside my heart. I really didn’t know that she would have a tragic demise, but I knew that she was special and unique. How are you celebrating your 20th anniversary? I looked back and tried to digest how to address my past, which is so varied. I touched upon my way of twisting American sportswear from the white T-shirt, which really launched my career internationally, to my more conceptual work. I tried to bridge these different parts of me, and put them together in a collection. But it’s new, and it’s today—I don’t know how much the naked eye can see the hints at former collections, but I know they’re there. You can do a cheat sheet if you want! [Laughs] What’s your secret to longevity? Longevity is definitely a wonderful gift. I’ve built everything from the bottom up. I’m also probably one of the only 100 percent, independently owned fashion companies today. People are practically graduating from college trying to sell their name and their label. I’ve always been very independent and done things on my own terms, and I’m very proud of that. Maybe that’s why I’ve taken longer to rise. Who knows? I’ve had so many different lives. Fashion people have known about me since the beginning; streetwear people loved my collaborations with Adidas and other brands. Today, the kids are discovering me through their favorite music stars, because I have strong alliances and long, dedicated friendships with some of them. I’m a lot of different things to different people, while still remaining true. I feel very thankful and blessed, and I look forward to 20 more years…and beyond! After working so hard for so long, do you feel like you’re able to sit back and enjoy your success? [Laughs] Wait, there’s a time to sit back and ride? I’ve always grown up with the theory that you’re only as good as your last collection. Honestly, you know as well as I do that fashion has a very short attention span and memory. I always need to improve myself and show up. Laurels, resting, waiting, riding by? None of it. None of it! ß
What’s New With Miley? Her new album, Younger Now, drops September 29, the Season 13 premiere of The Voice airs on NBC September 25, and yes, Scott dressed her in that unforgettable Elvis-esque ensemble at the 2017 MTV Video Music Awards!
JEREMY’S FAN CLUB
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CARLYNE CERF DE DUDZEELE What have you loved about working with Jeremy over the years? His clarity in knowing what he stands for. How do you explain his endurance? His consistency and being in tune with what is going on at the present time. How would you describe Jeremy as a designer and an artist? A sponge of our time while staying true to his beliefs.
DEVON AOKI Why has Jeremy endured? Jeremy’s clothes, collections, and persona have influenced my generation and the contemporary aesthetic in an extraordinary way. He embodies pop art and youth culture in a way that is uniquely his own—colorful, loud, unapologetic, and a feast for the senses. He has done so much to shift fashion from a conversation for a small sliver of people to one that includes and champions artists and fashion outsiders, as well as insiders, young people, and street culture. You’re his longtime
muse. How would you describe your relationship? Being one of Jeremy’s muses has been one of the great compliments of my life. He is the most loving, thoughtful, elegant, and kindhearted person. We have a joyful friendship, and I have felt loved by him for all these years, and I have loved him deeply in return. Favorite memory? Playing Pictionary together on Thanksgiving! Jeremy is competitive—if you’re on his team, you’re never going to lose! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
dailyInvestigation
HAVE YOU S
In the past few years, the industry has been rocked, an moved on to different pastures. So we tracked down the hea Yes, chÊris—there is indeed life after making it big in
atoosa rubenstein
suze yalof schwartz
Last Seen: launching alpha kitty
Last Seen: on the today show
kim france
peter copping
Last Seen: in the blogosphere
Last Seen: exiting OSCAR
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
U SEEN ME?
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ed, and some of our favorite editors and designers have he heavyweights and scored the scoops on their latest endeavors. big in media and fashion! BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
David Granger
ALESSANDRA FACCHINETTI
Last Seen: cocktailing at old town
Last Seen: revamping tod’s
jane pratt
brandon holley
Last Seen: IN “MEDIA INK”
Last Seen: starting something up FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
dailyInvestigation
RUBENSTEIN What’s new, Atoosa? I’m a stay-at-home parent, and while I’m busy taking the kids to school and gymnastics, the biggest thing is that I’m learning a lot about myself. Such as? In my adult life, I was a little bit of a hot mess. So I’ve been focusing on my family, on slowing things down, and not being so externally focused. The past 10 years have been a period of tremendous personal growth. Before, I was very focused on me and my journey. In retrospect, I really lacked compassion and empathy. Have you considered writing a self-help book? Ha! I’ve been writing some things, but I’m no guru. Right now, a lot of media that people consume is random negative chatter. I’m not a big fan of that. It hurt me personally—a lot— and that was a big reason I stopped working. I felt bullied; it was affecting me. If there was an opportunity for me through writing or otherwise to be positive and supportive, though… What happened to atoosa.com and Big Momma Productions? When I stopped working, I felt done. I was successful at a young age; I didn’t
copping
The ex–Nina Ricci designer spent a brief but critically acclaimed period as creative director at Oscar de la Renta. Copping’s stint then led him to an unexpected new chapter—magazines!
feel permission to stop. So when I told my company I was leaving, I had an LLC, my website, an agent all ready to go. But I just wouldn’t pull the trigger on anything, so they got frustrated. Life is messy, and I’ve been in the messy part. This might be TMI, but for many, many years in my childhood, I was sexually abused. In my career, I didn’t feel empowered to talk about it. I felt like I didn’t have permission from my family, even though I was a thirtysomething-year-old woman, and I didn’t feel like my company would support me if I talked about it. As I got racier with the coverage in the magazine, they’d get scared about advertisers. Once I felt there was a truth I couldn’t share, I felt I needed to stop within the corporate arena. Do your kids know about your life in media? My twins know nothing. My big one is 9 years old. She’s noticed that, on a couple of occasions, people have had my picture in their wallet, and I think that makes her feel proud. But she wishes I’d dress fancy again; I only wear workout clothes now. I’m like, “Yeah, that’s because you guys basically vomit on me all the time!”
KIM FRANCE
The founding Lucky editrix successfully reinvented herself a couple of years ago, and now she’s graduated from glossies to something more personal and lengthier. What’s new? I’m writing a memoir for Algonquin Books that will come out in fall 2019; I got the book deal in the winter. I’d been thinking about writing a memoir off and on since leaving Lucky, and a few years ago, the [New York Times] Styles section ran a story about me, and a bunch of agents got in touch. I wrote a few essays earlier this year on Medium that got an overwhelming response, so I thought that was a sign that people maybe wanted to hear from me. It’s about my life in magazines, and things that happened to me in my FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
personal life while I was at the top of my career. I may go into my youth in Texas a little bit. I want the title to be Typical Me, but my editor and I disagree on that. How’s it going? I’ve been interviewing people I worked with at Sassy and Lucky. Condé Nast treated me very well, and I’m certainly not going to trash them, but I have fun details about what it was like to work there, plus personal details about my life that will surprise and interest people. I work at home and at Ludlow House, Soho House’s Lower East Side outpost. How’s your blog, Girls of a
Certain Age? It’s grown nicely. It’s small, but it has a really vibrant community, and I’m proud of that. The readers are really engaged, and there’s never any negativity in the comments, which I love. Thoughts on glossies? Magazines have really suffered because nobody’s putting resources into them. It’s the end of magazines, which is really sad. Will you ever return? Not really. I think I closed that chapter.
How did you end up as a contributing editor at Architectural Digest? I attended the wedding of Colby Jordan, a fellow AD contributor, last year in the South of France and got talking with Jane Keltner de Valle, AD’s style director. She knew I was passionate about homes and interiors, and she set up a meeting between myself and Amy Astley. Amy asked if I would like to contribute, and I jumped at the chance. How do you look back on your time at Oscar de la Renta? Unfortunately, I never got the chance to work alongside Oscar as was planned. I found it a challenge to arrive in a house that was in mourning, and with a family that wasn’t ready, at that point, for change. Another challenge was working with the in-house atelier; it lacked the savoir faire I had experienced in Paris. The highlight was designing a custom evening gown for Lynn Wyatt to wear to her 80th birthday ball. I do not regret my time at Oscar de la Renta at all, and am very proud of the legacy I left, especially the Spring/Summer 2016 collection. It was selected by Vogue as one of the best collections of the season, and for me, it captured the spirit of the house in a fresh and modern way. Have you stayed in New York? No, I have spent most of the time at the home in France I share with my husband, Rambert Rigaud. It has been quite a contrast to my life in New York. We were renovating the last part of our house in Normandy, so being there enabled me to oversee the final stages of the work.
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ATOOSA
peter
The wunderkind editrix was Hearst’s youngestever EIC when she founded CosmoGIRL! at just 26 years old in 1998. After three successful years helming Seventeen, Rubenstein quit the glossy grind entirely, and yet we’re still obsessed!
jane
pratt What’s new? I’m working on a new project, which at this stage means spending a lot of time with my lawyers and business manager.
You’ve been a free agent since December. What’s that been like? I’ve been able to see some great documentaries in theaters, and I’ve been able to go to my daughter’s eighth-grade science fair. I’ve gone on fun trips with my best friends—and have been able to extend those extra days, and more extra
ALESSANDRA FACCHINETTI
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The Gucci, Valentino, and Miu Miu alum spent three years as the inaugural creative director at Tod’s until that came to an end in 2016. Since then, Facchinetti has been basically living la dolce vita! How is life after Tod’s? I wanted to take a break and dedicate myself to my personal life. I traveled a lot throughout the world. At this moment, I’m working on different ideas, not only in the fashion world. I think it’s a perfect moment to be involved in new, challenging projects— interiors, theater, and new fashion ideas, but I’m not able to talk about any of it yet. Honestly, I’ve been incredibly
SUZE YALOF
SCHWARTZ
After 15 years with Glamour, Schwartz moved to California and positioned herself at the center of the wellness trend that just won’t quit.
The brilliant founder of Sassy and Jane parted ways with Time Inc. and her xoJane and xoVain sites in December, but don’t fret—Pratt already has an intriguing next act in the works. days, because why not? And I’ve been working, of course.
Does your teenage daughter read vintage Sassy?
If you were to launch a magazine in 2017…
I’m going to let Charlotte answer this question: “I have never seen a Sassy magazine and am not really allowed to touch her old magazines, because she wants to keep them nice!” I just want to say that I had no idea that Charlotte thought that she wasn’t allowed to touch my old magazines—I just thought that she wasn’t interested in them. So thanks for opening up that discussion!
If you had asked me this a while ago, I would’ve said that it would be called Elizabeth and it would be a magazine for women 34 and older. I’ve also been interested in doing a preteen girls magazine. But because of everything that has happened in the world more recently, my priorities have shifted, and that’s the focus of the project I’m working on now.
lucky to be part of the fashion industry during the golden years, but now something has changed. I think we have lost the poetry in the fashion world. I’m open to it, but done in a different way. What did you take away from your three years at Tod’s? My Tod’s experience was fantastic for many reasons. The challenge was to create a ready-to-wear collection for a brand that was focused mainly on accessories. For me, that was like building a home from the ground up. Why did you move on? I felt in the air a new wave coming toward me, so I decided that it was time for a change. In the past 15 years, the world has changed so much, and also, creativity has evolved. We must embrace that change and react. Did you work with Alessandro Michele at Gucci? Yes, I have very good memories. I’m
truly happy for him—his freedom and creativity created a wonderland that is very rare today. Where are you living? I spent six months in New York, and now I’m back in Milan. I’ve traveled a lot, and the suitcase is always ready. I just came back from a yoga retreat in Puglia, and soon, I’m headed to Marrakech, seeking life and colors.
How did you transition from fashion editor to meditation guru? I left Glamour to move to Los Angeles for my husband’s job, and I was so stressed out, my mother-in-law said, “Close your eyes, imagine you’re in Jamaica, and take a deep breath.” I opened my eyes and said, “Woah, that was incredible. What was that?!” and she said, “Meditation.” So I decided that I would meditate in L.A., but there were not attractive options.
DAVID GRANGER
After nearly two decades of rocking our world at Esquire, editor-in-chief David Granger was “s**tcanned” (his words, not ours) in March 2016. His next act—literary agent at Aevitas Creative Management—is well under way. What’s new, sir? I just got back from Charleston, North Carolina, and celebrating the birthday of my daughters. One of them has a cheese business down there. Along with a little knee surgery that compromised the enjoyment of summer a bit, the first book I agented was published on August 1: Senator Jeff Flake’s Conscience of a Conservative, which The Washington Post called “the single biggest act of political bravery of the Trump era.” Everybody reading this should buy a few copies. What else? One project under way is a big piece of investigative journalism related to our president. I’ve sold a comingof-age memoir by a well-known film director that will be unique because it’s extremely funny. I’ve got a social history of eating in 21st-century America that’ll be the Kitchen Confidential of its time. I’m working with an extremely famous and controversial athlete and a couple of extremely talented young novelists. Still waiting for Lee Child to send me the next Lee Child, which he said he would do last year. How does the new gig compare to the old one? Well, there’s less drinking in my new office. And it’s strange not having an assistant, after having had one for 25 years. It’s the paperwork that kills you.
I wanted a place like a Drybar for meditation, where you could walk in feeling icky and leave feeling great. I knew it would hit. So you launched Unplug Meditation. I wanted it to feel like a New York City gallery, where everything’s really clean, white, minimalistic, and simple. I started hiring teachers that blew my mind. It started off as mindfulness, but I quickly realized people wanted more—guided imagery, crystal healing,
chakras—but modern, chic, cool, easy, and accessible. I wanted it to appeal to people like Anna Wintour, people who would otherwise never do anything like this. Are you generally crunchier as an Angeleno? I’m open to things I never would’ve been open to before. I’m able to handle stress better. I can be focused, instead of wondering where the party is. So often, our bodies and our brains are not even in the same ZIP code! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
ANDREA
LINETT
Lucky’s founding creative director hopped from editorial to the brand side at the likes of eBay and Michael Kors before it was a well-tread, cushy path. What’s new? I had a baby last year. I was going to take some time off, but that didn’t happen— I was blogging from the hospital bed. Right after that, I produced a couple of fashion issues for The Village Voice. I love working for brands, but it’s not that free. There is life after editorial, but editorial is fun. If anyone’s reading this, I’m available! What else? I’m super passionate about jewelry and I have a crazy collection, so I’ve worked with
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FRANCISCO COSTA Exotic travels and some deserved downtime seem to have been Costa’s M.O. since bidding adieu to his women’s creative director post at Calvin Klein in April 2016. The designer put his Park Avenue abode on the market for nearly $5 million in June, and his post-Calvin professional move is still TBD. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Sydney Evan and Ten Thousand Things, and I helped found Iconery, an online fine jewelry start-up. I’ve also done some work with Love Adorned. I’m working on my fifth book, and it’s not about fashion, but I can’t really talk about it. Oh, and there’s my blog [I Want to Be Her!], which was always a side project I did for fun. Now, I’m concentrating on building it up to a much bigger, multifaceted experience, with lots of vintage, more shopping, and collaborations with designers.
BRANDON
HOLLEY How’s Everywear shaping up? We joined an accelerator, Entrepreneurs Roundtable Accelerator, and it’s been amazing. We did a pilot with a major retailer and had great results, and we’re rolling out with a bunch of retailers this fall, throughout September. What’s the concept, exactly? We’re a B2B software service that enables our partners to create customized results at scale. The e-commerce sales conversion rate is ridiculously low, 3 percent, compared to 20 percent in stores. If I want to buy an HDMI cord online, that’s easy, but buying a new skirt is not searchable. We’ve created an algorithm and tagging system that works against thousands of pieces of inventory to create one-to-one recommendations. It’s a little like Lucky, and
The ex-Jane and Lucky EIC has spent the past three years launching a shopping-centric start-up—and, yes, it definitely pulls some inspo from Lucky. She’s gotten an eye-opening education about the tech space in the process.
what women loved about the magazine—demystifying style. How does tech differ from publishing? In tech, it’s about finding the breakable stuff, and fixing it as fast as possible to get to
the most efficient, effective product. In magazines, it’s about perfection and refining. We’re hoping we’re ahead of the pack because we have some first-mover advantage. I come from such a long background of listening to the problems women have shopping, buying stuff, and looking good. Women have less time to shop but more money to spend than ever before, so our service is a great consumer solution. Do you miss mag life? I miss a crazy creative environment and working with stylists and photographers, but I don’t miss magazines. I love the tech entrepreneurial scene, where a lot of people think they can change the world in a very tight social network. I’m a super-competitive person, so it’s a good fit.
MARCO ZANINI Formerly the creative director at Elsa Schiaparelli, Zanini paired up with Italian shoe brand Santoni on a capsule in February, Santoni Edited by Marco Zanini, expanding beyond the brand’s accessories roots to include outerwear and more. No word yet on his next project.
DAN PERES Details’ main man (for 15 years!) is now working on a memoir about his experiences in the fashion industry—and with addiction (which apparently devolved into a 60-pill-per-day opiate habit). This Should Explain Everything is slated to hit shelves in 2019.
MARGARET RUSSELL The ultra-chic Architectural Digest EIC was replaced by Amy Astley in May 2016. An editor-at-large gig at recently launched design magazine Galerie soon followed. Currently, Russell is the pretty shelter title’s editor in chief. Keep an eye out for fashion-centric profiles!
DEBORAH NEEDLEMAN Since parting ways with T: The New York Times Magazine, Needleman has left fashion. She hasn’t left the glossy altogether, though—she’s now a columnist for it, covering craft around the world. (P.S. Pop over to her Instagram feed for some serious green thumb inspo.)
HAL RUBENSTEIN In February, the former InStyle fixture took on the role of East Coast editor at FourTwoNine, the Los Angeles–based men’s lifestyle glossy from Maer Roshan. Oh, and he’s been whipping up an eponymous clothing and footwear line for the Home Shopping Network since 2013, too.
CATHIE BLACK The former president of Hearst Magazines had a 95-day stint as New York City’s school chancellor. She then joined Madison Park Ventures as an angel investor and board member, and has been an adviser and investor for NY Fashion Tech Lab, a venture capital fund and accelerator founded by Miroslava Duma.
ED MENICHESCHI The CMO and president of Condé Nast Media Group left in October 2016 around the time of Jim Norton’s arrival. In January, Menicheschi founded a mysterious new venture, Silver Fox Productions. Keep us posted, foxy…
ANNE SLOWEY Elle’s longtime fashion news director decamped in February after nearly two decades at the magazine, but she’s apparently still in the Elle fold as a contributing writer for print and digital, and Slowey is dabbling in short films and brand marketing, according to a statement from the title.
PETER DUNDAS Talk about a truly buzzy solo act. He left Cavalli in 2016, but Dundas unveiled his eponymous label’s very first look on none other than a pregnant Beyoncé at the Grammys in February. He debuted formally during Paris Couture, and a “see now, buy now” collection dropped on Moda Operandi a few days later.
ANNE CHRISTENSEN After leaving the fashion director post at Glamour in 2013, she was tapped as fashion editor-at-large for BlackBook’s shortlived print resurrection. Nowadays, Christensen’s chic touch can be spotted in her work for the likes of Bergdorf Goodman’s catalog.
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dailyInvestigation
Series 3.1 Emerging Fashion Designers
Art by Adam Dalton Blake
©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Introducing LIFEWTR Series 3. We advance and showcase the sources of creation and creativity.
NEWLook
RUBA’S RULES ELLE has an entirely new look thanks to Ruba Abu-Nimah, its new creative director. After spending much of her career at large beauty brands, she has revamped the September issue with a sensibility that is intriguingly different from that of her celebrated predecessor, Alex Gonzalez. Discuss!
You made the switch from the brand side to editorial—how contrarian! When I was working with brands, I was always accused of having a very editorial point of view. It was always my weak point, apparently. I really like the mix [of brand and editorial], and that’s why I like ELLE as a magazine itself. It’s been around a long time, yet it’s modern. It’s iconic. The reader wants to be inspired, but grounded in reality, and that’s everything I believe in. You’ve lived in many different cities... I was born in the Middle East, but raised in quite a few European countries; my father’s job moved us from Brussels to Paris to London to Rome, and I consider myself very lucky. I moved to New York 20 years ago after living in Paris for almost a decade. I just felt like it was time; I was getting restless. How was your two-year stint at Shiseido? It was an extraordinary experience, because I was based in Japan. To spend that much time there and work within a very traditional Japanese company was difficult, but enlightening. I was the only team member who wasn’t Japanese. You spent half a decade at Bobbi Brown. How did it evolve? I came to the brand when it was very young in its identity. I was their first real in-house creative director, and I created a team that was both analog and digital—they had been separate before.
Did Alex Gonzalez give you any pointers on succeeding him in this role? Yes, I had many conversations with Alex! I had big shoes to fill; Alex is really good at what he does. He did give me some advice, and he left me his phone number. He told me, “Do what you do, and don’t overthink it,” and he’s right about that. I haven’t called him yet, but I will. How do you want to tweak the look of ELLE? I’m redesigning parts of the magazine, and I’m very interested and excited to delve in how we speak to the reader, not just from a photographic perspective, but also typographic—there’s a whole journalistic side to the magazine that’s very rare in a fashion magazine, and it’s very important to Robbie [Myers, editor-in-chief]. I also want to bring stories to the magazine that we can all relate to. Such as? The streetwear story in the September issue. We showed these kids from the skateboarding and
THE BIG REVEAL ELLE’s new visual direction, as revealed in its September issue.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
biking community—kids who are friends with my kids. We also recreated a nightclub during the day, and within hours, we had 30 people at a shooting location. For me, it’s not just about putting a model in beautiful clothes, it’s about bringing some of real life into the magazine. Do you use your kids as a focus group? I have a 21-year-old girl and a 15-year-old boy; they’re a good litmus test, and they’re very critical of me and my work. They were like, “Yeah, it’s cool,” when I showed them the issue, and my 21-year-old said, “We’ll talk about it in six months.” She’s tough! Is being the first female creative director at ELLE a big responsibility? It’s an honor for me. Yeah, it’s about time, but this isn’t about me—we’ve got to consider the future, and this is the future. Have you beefed up the team since arriving? Slowly and surely, as needed, but I don’t really believe in revolution, I believe in evolution. I want to work with Robbie and the team to make sure I do the right thing for the magazine. So, yes, I’ve introduced some illustrators and I’d like to introduce some photographers that I’ve worked with in the past, but I also really want to develop young photographers. I love the idea of discovering young talent and giving them the platform to be creative. Any examples? I recently discovered a still-life photographer I’d never heard of on Instagram! So, basically, any aspiring, striving, young talents out there should be DMing you ASAP. Ha! I actually have a lot of direct messages right now, and I do look at all of them. I used to get them before, but not to this degree. This is a very public job, and I respect that. You have to be looking, nurturing, and mentoring all the time; that’s how you get good work. ß
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BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
Series 3.2 Emerging Fashion Designers
Art by Tiffany Huang
©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Inspiration on the outside. Hydration on the inside.
footForward
sole brother Since 2004, Fabrizio Viti has been overseeing the chaussures at Louis Vuitton, which have become beloved by the chicest women around the world. Now, Viti has also launched an eponymous collection of feminine, whimsical footwear. No wonder the front-row fixtures are swooning!
How did you end up in shoes? I attended an art school in my hometown of Carrara, Italy. Carrara is the city of marbles, so I studied sculpture. Because shoes are like objects, in terms of how you can work with them, I also attended the Istituto Marangoni. After that, I went into clothing, but it was boring for me, because I don’t have a strong sense of fabric. Then I started working on accessories. At the time, there was a big demand for shoe designers. It was my moment! I started working with Patrick Cox, and from there I moved to Gucci—which was my first time working with a big brand—and then to Prada and then to Louis Vuitton in 2004, where I still am. I used to say to myself that I’d never leave Prada, but then I met Marc Jacobs! All these years later, I'm still at Vuitton. What is your relationship like with Marc? Marc’s an interesting person—he has a vision in his head that isn’t always very clear, so you have to follow him in his scheme of thoughts. That was a challenge, but what we do at Vuitton today is because of how Marc pushed the limits. He’s a fantastic person. I loved to work with him, and I admire his aesthetic and the way he brought it to Louis Vuitton. Why did you decide to launch your own line? It wasn’t planned with some marketing strategy. I’m very happy working with Nicolas Ghesquière. There’s great harmony within the team and the brand. But there were a lot of things that just made me think this was the right moment to start my own line, and it was simple. I started out designing a pair of boots with daisies on them, made a sample, and then found a factory. I never sit down and overthink what I should and shouldn’t do. I just do it. Sometimes I pay FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What’s the story with your doll collection? the price [Laughs], but in this case it’s working out very well. I started to play with dolls when I was 3 years old, when my cousin brought me the first Barbie. I How do you describe your was traumatized and shocked by her beauty. She design aesthetic? developed a strong personality through the years, It starts as a fantasy, but it but at the time, she was more like an object that always has a sense of reality, you could use to express your own creativity. I loved although I’m not saying it’s having this beautiful blonde bombshell with me all realistic to ride the subway at 8 a.m. with daisy boots the time. I started becoming a hoarder in the 1990s on. [Laughs] For Fabrizio Viti, I design exactly what and collected Barbies from the ’60s and the ’70s, I like, which makes it personal. I’m inspired by the which were expensive. From that point on, I began women around me. collecting more than just Barbies—I also love the You have a lot of American influences in your Korean/Japanese dolls. Now, designs. HEy, DOLL! A snapshot of Viti’s extensive I collect these weird Russian Basically everything is really collection of Barbie dolls. dolls that are very well made. inspired by America, and there I have about 800 dolls. Many are some French movies in are in my doll room, a few there, too. I have very few are in my bedroom, and I also Italian influences because I have tons in boxes. It’s not was raised by a mother who what you think [Laughs]—it’s really worshipped actresses like not scary! Mary Tyler Moore and Marilyn Is your shoe collection as Monroe. My favorite shows were Bewitched and especially Charlie’s extravagant? Angels. I watch an episode from I own maybe 15 pairs of the Season 4 almost every day! same loafers. ß
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BY SYDNEY SADICK
Series 3.3 Emerging Fashion Designers
Art by Ghazaleh Khalifeh
©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Discover our designers at LIFEWTR.com
BEAUTYBeat dynamic duo Lily Aldridge and Jason Wu teamed up on the campaign for Wu’s first fragrance, which was photographed by Inez & Vinoodh.
signature scent Jason Wu has been creating musthave pieces since the 2007 launch of his eponymous brand. Now, he’s created another chicster essential with the debut of his first fragrance. Known simply as Jason Wu, the bottle is a work of art, the scent is astonishingly chic, and you’re going to see—and smell—it everywhere. BY PAIGE REDDINGER FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
How did the fragrance come together? I’ve done quite a few projects in beauty over the years, but creating my own scent was definitely exciting. I worked with perfumer Frank Voelkl at Firmenich. I kind of took a personality test via scent: He showed me about 200 to 300 different ones, and I was able to recognize a lot of them, and I reacted to what I did and did not like. We narrowed it down to my favorite ingredients, and it was really interesting to learn that jasmine was the most attractive to me. It reminded me of my childhood in Taiwan—I grew up with a lot of these flowers.
It ended up as the central note to my fragrance. What other notes did you settle on? Peony, lily of the valley, and fig. Those are also flowers that I love visually, but I’ve never really identified a smell with them. I’ve always loved fig and pink peppercorn and bergamot, which give some citrus notes, very green. The pepper gives some edge to counterbalance the floral notes. What was it like working with Frank Voelkl? It was amazing. I didn’t know him prior—I had met with several perfumers, and Frank really understood what I wanted. I’ve always been into light fragrances.
LOOK HERE From the bottle design to the advertising campaign, Wu masterminded the genesis of his debut scent.
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“[Jasmine] reminded me of my childhood in taiwan—i grew up with a lot of these flowers. it ended up as the central note to my fragrance.” One of the things I described to him was the freshly cut stem of a flower, which is one of my favorite things to smell. Who designed the bottle? Andre [Mellone], whom I met through a mutual friend. He designed my apartment and eventually he designed my first shop at Saks Fifth Avenue. We work pretty well together—we come from all the same places when it comes to aesthetics, and we became really great friends. As an architect, he has such good instincts when it comes to shapes and construction and materials. I trusted that he would do a great job on the bottle. How many designs did he present to you? We went through several; we used a Peter Peri sculpture as the inspiration for our starting point. The first version of the bottle was a little more complex; over several meetings, we simplified it and reworked it with our engineers and our glassmaker, who is based in Parma, Italy. It took a little bit to get there in terms of how to make something in our minds come into reality.
What role did Fabien Baron play? He designed the packaging and the advertising campaign. I think he has such great instincts when it comes to beauty. He also understands me and my aesthetic. Fabien and I have been friends for a long time—his partner, Ludivine Poiblanc, has been styling my collection for five years. Fabien and I had never worked together before, so I thought this was the perfect project. Why did you choose Lily Aldridge for your campaign? This opportunity was perfect for Lily, because she’s such a picture of an American beauty. She’s also exotic and sophisticated-looking; those are the qualities that I really wanted to come across with the fragrance. We’ve seen her looking glamorous a lot, and in this instance, we’re showing a more pareddown Lily. What fragrances have you always admired? I love the Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel fragrance, which started my obsession with the color gray. I was a huge fan of BYREDO fragrances, and I love Frédéric Malle’s fragrances. What do you wear every day? Right now, I’m wearing BYREDO Palermo, but I switch among different ones. Have you had any feedback about the fragrance? Yes, definitely. I tested it on all my friends. All my girlfriends really love it and use it right now, so I’m happy about that, because it’s really important to have their feedback. How did you choose the color of the fragrance? I wanted a pressed powder pink. It reminds me of a ’50s compact. It’s one of the most beautiful colors, and I thought that was appropriate for my first fragrance because it’s so feminine, refined, and elevated, which I felt describes the perfume’s sensibility. How does it feel to debut a major fragrance? It’s a big deal! It launched about a week ago at Saks, and I got pictures from all 42 Saks stores with giant visuals. I went to Canada this past Monday, and I saw the same thing—huge billboards within all the stores. Surreal! ß
LILY WEIGHS IN!
When did you first meet Jason? We first met years ago at a party, and he came up to me and said he’d love to work with me! I was totally flattered because he is known for dressing such icons. I’m thrilled to be a part of the Wu crew. How did you feel when Jason chose you for his first-ever fragrance campaign? So excited! He’s so passionate about this project. He’s put so much thought and care into every detail. The scent, the bottle, the packaging! It’s just perfect, and I’m so proud of him. What was the best part about working with him on this campaign? He has the best personality, and he was cracking me up! The whole team is so much fun. Shooting this was a dream day. What do you love about the scent? I love the jasmine notes. Also, the bottle is so chic! It’s perfect for day and night. What was the first fragrance you wore as a teenager? I had a rose oil that I loved! I’ve always been drawn to floral scents. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
itBrits
Soul Mates Laura Taylor and Ryan HollidayStevens met on a dance floor, and it wasn’t long before they began whipping up looks and dressing the coolest kids in town. In 2013, they officially launched their brand, Solace London, and its minimalistmeets-futuristic aesthetic has made it a must-have for shoppers and retailers around the globe. No wonder they’re are making their debut at NYFW. BY PAIGE REDDINGER
What brings you to these shores? Ryan: New York is a natural fit for us—aesthetically, and in terms of the women who wear the product. Laura: We ship a lot of product to New York, but it really resonates on a global scale as well. It’s ballsy to show in an international place for the first time, but we’re looking forward to it. Do you eventually want to open a storefront here? Ryan: Yeah, definitely, but not just in New York. We both envision a very big retail footprint globally in places like London, New York, and Paris. Laura: We started out in retail, and we still enjoy the experience of going into stores and being immersed in the brand experience. Ryan: We’re thinking about doing pop-ups to test different markets. We really want to use the store to test the waters with new product. Our e-commerce channel has taken off, but some items, like pants and jeans, are so much easier to sell in a store. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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How did you initially team up? Ryan: We had been aware of each other at the time, but we were more like frenemies. Then one night almost 12 years ago, we ran into each other on the dance floor at a bar and we really hit it off. From that point on, we became pretty much inseparable. What were you doing before you launched Solace London? Ryan: When we first met, Laura was managing a really cool specialty store. It’s not around anymore, but it had a reputation for breaking new designers. At the time, I was selling my own brand there and Laura was managing the shop. Laura: This was during the time when you really couldn’t buy things internationally online, so we started making things that I wanted to get my hands on, but couldn’t. At the time, this shop was in Leeds near the [University of Leeds], and there was a massive nightlife scene. In the North of England, people really love getting dressed for a night out. The store gave us a real understanding of how our clients felt and how they shopped. We get really gushy, wonderful emails from our customers telling us about how they felt in our clothing, and the fact that they feel good in our pieces has created real brand loyalty. What’s the aesthetic of Solace London? Ryan: It changes naturally as we evolve as designers, but it’s always about being clean, minimal, refined, modern, and statement-making. It’s in your face, but not trying too hard. How do you keep the price points relatively low? Ryan: There used to be a bigger gap between the big fashion and couture houses and contemporary brands, but now a lot of us are offering high design without ripping people off. Something doesn’t have to cost thousands of dollars to be luxurious. We develop everything in-house and we work with the most luxurious fabrics. Laura: Technique drives most of our design process. Which retailer was the first to champion the brand? Ryan: Selfridges. They’re a really progressive retailer—they carry all of the major brands, but they’re also great about spotting new and emerging talent. Very quickly after that, Net-a-Porter picked us up. How do you navigate the evolving retail environment? Ryan: We’ve always been quite disruptive, so we roll with it. Digital technology and online retailing has redefined how we shop, and even though it creates tons of problems and curve balls, it’s an exciting time. Things needed to change! The fashion industry is actually quite old-fashioned. The retail calendar has been driven by retailers, not by consumers—they just want to see new things and to be able to buy them. We don’t agree that you have to do things a certain way—if you can do them quicker and better, just do it! What can we expect from Spring ’18? Laura: We’re introducing a 12-piece collection of swimwear. We’ll integrate it into the ready-to-wear line, pairing the suits with skirts and trousers. We’ve also designed our first jewelry collection, and we’re working on shoes as well. Who inspires you outside of fashion? Laura: Molly Gunn, who runs a site called Selfish Mother. In a nutshell, she built her brand and her business around saying that as a mother, it’s okay to just wing it. Ryan: I’m inspired by modern art and music. Laura and I are massively into electronic music and we still travel the world going to festivals, concerts, gigs, and nightclubs.
“WE’VE ALWAYS BEEN QUITE DISRUPTIVE.... we don’t agree that you have to do things a certain way.” Laura: It’s essential to our friendship that we have time out of the office to have fun. We’ve just been to Glastonbury. Ryan: It was amazing—it didn’t rain this year! What’s the vibe like at your studio when you’re designing? Ryan: [Laughs] People think we’re insane, but we play super loud, crazy music. But only when we’re designing—not when we’re working on things like the cash flow! You can get bogged down in business tasks, so you have to trick your mind into thinking you’re semi-fun again. What has been most rewarding about launching your own business? Ryan: I get to work with my best friend. Fashion is really tough, but it’s so much easier when you can laugh. Laura: We bounce ideas off of one another and we give each other clarity. ß
PERSONALITY PiECES From denim to eveningwear, Solace London’s designs combine a modern sense of ease with a dose of humor and irreverence.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
man with a vision
As an accomplished photographer and director, Francesco Carrozzini has long been a fixture in the fashion world. But he became a bona fide obsession upon the release of Franca: Chaos and Creation, a brilliant documentary about his mother, the late Franca Sozzani. Now, the hautest Italian multihyphenate is set to direct his first feature film…and plan his wedding! by sydney sadick
What’s the story with your new film? Once I finished the documentary on my mother, I realized I had always wanted to be a filmmaker. I didn’t have to deal with egomaniac actors or bad weather because it was a documentary, but I did have to deal with strong emotions—the movie is ultimately the bridge between the deaths of my parents. I met an agent at William Morris Endeavor [WME] who represents writer/directors. He told me to develop material I like, and that we would auction it off and develop it. Soon after that, I met with his wife, who’s an agent in WME’s literary department, and she gave me a few books and scripts, including [Jo Nesbø’s] Midnight Sun. It’s about a man who goes through the end of the world, which is sort of how I felt when my mother was dying. I just wanted to disappear for a bit. I related in a lot of other ways to this character, too. So we’re going to Norway on September 14 to scout locations and start writing! Does it feel strange to leave the fashion industry behind? [Laughs] Not anymore. Despite the fact that my first FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
movie was about my mother, who is a fashion icon, I eventually got to a point where I felt like I was just making a movie. I’ll still shoot [fashion] pictures if I have to, but I’m not chasing that right now. What did you learn about your mom through the process of making the documentary? I learned a lot about parenting—parents don’t have to be perfect. I made the mistake of thinking they had to be with my dad, who died five years before my mom did. But they’re human, with their own careers, ideas, and ways of living. I can’t change the fact that my parents got divorced, but I can change certain things about my own life. The movie got me more into my own skin. How did the rest of your family react to the film? Now, they see it as a gift, because it’s what we have to remember her by. There are a million initiatives that I’m working on—we’re creating a book about my mother with Assouline, and at the Venice International Film Festival this month, we presented the first Franca Sozzani Award to Julianne Moore. All these things continue her memory, but
the only way we can all get my mother back for an hour and 20 minutes is by watching this film. When my kids turn 5 or 6, I can say, “Hey, this was your grandma.” What did your mother pass on to you that you will always cherish? Balls. She had really big balls. She was very determined and restless—in a good way—and always pursued what she wanted and believed in. The more I spent time with her, the more I realized she was a tough woman, but for the people whom she loved and respected, she was really there. These are the things that are valuable in the end—being a good friend, being determined, being ethically clean. She worked her ass off. What was the first documentary you ever made? I made a documentary about a theater company in Poland that was presented at a film festival there. My mom showed up at the premiere as a surprise. It was more of an “I did that” project, but looking back I’m glad I did, because it’s a place I spent time in that I never would have. How do you differentiate yourself as a feature film director from a fashion photographer? It’s tough! I try to be like a general doctor. If I knew I could just make film after film after film, while also making a living out of it, I wouldn’t do anything else. Films don’t make money until years later, especially for directors who work for passion and love, so I have to do other things. I’m trying to bring video into print. I did a shoot for Zegna with Robert De Niro and it came with a little film, and Apple hired me to do this Apple Music series for them. But I can’t overlook the immediacy of photography. Sometimes film gets a little frustrating. I love alternating. You recently collaborated with Jay-Z. Discuss! I was in L.A. one night and my music video
getty images (1); all others courtesy
DailyMale
commissioner called me and said Jay-Z is taking meetings with a few directors. I got to the studio at 8:30 p.m. and he was there—he played some music from his new album and asked what I thought. He said he didn’t believe in music videos. He wanted every piece that came with this album to be a take on film using his music. It was kind of like an art film that showed what the experience of being hurt in love feels like, with reconciliation in the end. He got Lupita Nyong’o involved. Working with her was amazing, too. This is why I still have to be in L.A.—the opportunities. You just put your L.A. house on the market. Why? The house was bought with the sense I was going to be an Angeleno forever. It was going to be my dream home. I was seeing myself as an old man, going from L.A. to Portofino [in Italy] and living in places where there is always sun. Then, I met my fiancée, [Bee Shaffer] who’s a true, hard-core New Yorker who hates L.A. and thinks it’s for dumb people. [Laughs] So I decided to relocate, although I will go back to L.A. a lot. It was just too big of a house to keep as a week-a-month home. I’m going to rent for a little bit, but I might get a small place at some point. What will you miss most about living in L.A.? L.A. has given me a lot. I moved there in 2014. I was getting really serious into the edit of my first film. I was directing music videos. It was just a moment when a lot of film work really started for me. And it’s a city that has given me two amazing years of life. I went surfing. I went hiking. I drove up the coast. California is the best place ever. But it has its own limitations—it’s far, the culture is opposite of New York, and I’m not marrying anyone in L.A. [Laughs] Congrats on your engagement! Are you heavy into the wedding planning stages? Yes! I think we’ll get married next summer. We haven’t picked a date yet, but yes. How did you two meet? We met many years ago. Our mothers knew each other. We had each other’s Bee Shaffer and Francesco Carrozzini
moments in time and franca (Clockwise from far left) Francesco and Franca; a family snapshot; observing the icon; mother and son in the toddler years; growing up on the town.
numbers. When I moved to New York, her mom thought it was polite to invite me to get to know her kids. We met again at The Met last year, flirted a little…and the rest is history! And this past year you walked The Met Gala red carpet together! We did! You know, it’s been a strange year. A little bit over a year ago, I was a single guy living in L.A. and my mom was dying. Now, I don’t have my mom anymore, I’m getting married, I moved cities. My life literally took a 180°, a 360°, and then a 180° again. I still have a hard time thinking back at all that happened—her [Bee], my mom, the movie—but strangely I think everything happened in a perfect way. For my mom, it was very important that I found someone, and she knew I did, really right away. I think it’s one of the things that gave her peace. What is it about Bee? She’s the only person whom I argue or disagree with and would never think it would be the end of anything. This is the first time I know that, and I think that’s why I’m ready
to get married. I’ve always been in situations where I couldn’t wait for it to be over because it just wasn’t working. But we’re laughing partners. Honestly, what I like about us is that we’re best friends more than anything else. It makes things simpler. We started as lovers, but became best friends right away. What’s Anna Wintour like as a mother-in-lawto-be? Everyone who looks at me goes, “This guy had Franca as his mother and Anna is his mother-in-law.” I’ve been lucky to have two very intelligent, strong women on my side. Any hidden talents? I’m huge into cooking. I love, love, love food. I’m in a phase where I like making new things. I’m big into experimenting. I make fresh pasta, meat, and fish of any kind. I don’t bake—I find it boring; it’s really an art form. I’m completely obsessed with the show Chef’s Table. One of my dreams is to open a restaurant—if I find someone to give me the money for it, because I don’t want to spend my own. [Laughs] I think I could make a cool spot! ß
“for my Mom, it was very important that i found someone, and she knew i did, really right away. i think it’s one of the things that gave her peace.” FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
timesChange
choire sicha at the times hq
preaching to the choire Five years ago, The New York Times boardroom seemed an unlikely place for a tête-à-tête with former Gawker star Choire Sicha. As he takes the helm at The Grey Lady’s Styles section, we should continue to expect the unexpected. BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM JESS LAIRD How have you been passing time between gigs? I’ve been reading The New York Times deeply and historically. The real answer is, I’ve been going to a lot of physical therapy. It’s not cute at all. And I’ve been making a lot of lists. What kind of lists? I have a list of stories on one of my many lists called “Why don’t we have this!” It’s a thought exercise. So how did you end up at The Times? I saw the opening and I thought, “Wow, what a cool job!” It’s a group of people and an institution that was too fantastic to not want to be near. They wouldn’t like me saying this, but no one knows what Styles is or is supposed to be. That was really attractive to me. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What was your reaction when you got the job? When Dean [Baquet, executive editor] called me, I said, “Okay, get ready for the hate mail,” and he said, “Haha, I already get the hate mail.” I thought, “Great, we’ll get along perfectly.” There was a lot of buzz about who was up for the spot. Why do you think you beat out the competition? I’m not sure I did. It was a nice old-fashioned round of media gossip—it felt very 10 years ago, which was refreshing. I think people are strongly and deeply attached to Styles as an entity. Whether they love it because they care passionately about fashion or society or capitalism, or they hate it for all those
reasons, it’s a part of people’s lives. I appreciate all those emotions. Vanity Fair spawned rumors that it was an actual bake-off. God bless Joe Pompeo and his devotion to reporting on The New York Times. I love media reporters. It’s such a funny beat. And reporters want to spill. They’re actually the dishiest people in the world. [Laughs] People in this industry need gossip because they need to know what’s going on in their field. It’s less tabloid gossip than servants’ quarters kind of gossip, which is what gossip historically is—normal people talking about rich people. We won’t go down that road. You’ve contributed to The Times, but was it ever a goal to be here full-time? It was never a goal—I’m actually not much for career goals. I’ve been a bit haphazard and have had really amazing, fun adventures because of that. I loved being at Vox Media. I had one of the first jobs in the world that was totally about dealing with Facebook
and Twitter. I would never have had that job if I did things on purpose. I’m not a schemer, and I definitely didn’t mean to accidentally work here. What exactly was your role at Vox? My main goal was to help us exploit opportunities with other publishing partners, mainly Google, Facebook, Snapchat, Apple, and help them work internally across product, revenue, marketing, and editorial to build things together and make smart choices. A classic example is Facebook getting into articles two years ago. That’s the short story. Do you think people were surprised when you joined The New York Times? This place is pretty rollicking right now. The New York Times has been through a lot of change in the past year—from the outside, not having been here, more rapidly than a lot of much younger institutions. It surprised me, I can say that. Will you work from home or is this a big boy job? I’ll be in the offices—I actually love offices! However, I am more of an 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. person. Morning rush hour in New York City has been devastated [by the MTA]. It’s good to remind myself how real it is out there. I like a nice reverse commute, but you can’t always engineer that. I’ve worked in a lot of remotefriendly cultures, but there’s a sort of a magic hour in media between 5 p.m. and 7 p.m. when you’re tired and you start talking about dumb ideas, and then your dumb ideas become real. That’s hard to replicate in remote culture. How do you plan to succeed editor Stuart Emmrich? I worked for him a little bit, but I don’t know him well. The nice thing about Styles is it doesn’t have a super storied history—it’s not that old compared to the institution here. I don’t think we have to worry too much about what Trip Gabriel or Stuart Emmrich have done. They’ve done hilarious things and adventurous things, and each has caused trouble in their own amazing way. We can build on that and create our own kind of trouble. So what’s your first order of business? My first order will be something boring like an org chart, which sounds unexciting coming from me, but I’m a total process queen. I’m asking people what they’ve done and how it works. In the first half hour with someone you find out the things you’d expect; in the second half hour, you find out the weird infrastructure stuff that’s been plaguing them for years. I’m listening and accumulating a picture. Your writing has become recognizable, whether at The Awl, Gawker, and even as a contributor for The Times. What will the voice of Styles be? When I first started writing here in Arts & Leisure, I told my editor that I was worried about sounding like The Times. She said, writers do that to themselves. The paper—which they would call it back then, but would never now—does not do that to them. I thought about that a lot. I want us to be a place for young writers to learn, but also be themselves and sound like themselves. The Times has a lot of room for voice and for experimentation. Sometimes voice means visual voice—brilliant photographers, people who work in video and imagery—and I really want to celebrate those voices too. Can we expect any Gawker undertones? We’re definitely not bringing back Gawker Stalker—the bane of my existence! Honestly, a lot of Gawker’s DNA was stealing from places like Styles and The Observer. I don’t think we have to steal back. We can go to our roots here, and the roots of the places that people who work on the section have been. Can you expect Gawkerisms? You can expect some good old-fashioned
“honestly, a lot of gawker’s dna was stealing from places like styles and the observer. i don’t think we have to steal back.” sauce when warranted, but that harkens back to things you’ve seen at The Times in the past 60 years. I’ll say this—Gawker didn’t invent much. [Laughs] Will your fondness for the word “like” survive? I do have a passion for the word “like”! I grew up in Southern California in a particular era when “like” was pioneered, and I have never recovered. [Laughs] I have to be proud of my heritage. Coming from digital media, how will you split your attention between digital and print? The really boring answer is that we publish digitally first, but the paper has to also be fabulous and exciting and cool and smart and cheeky. We have to nail both. It’s a little bit like running the MTA. [Laughs] I think of it as an express and a local, which is a ridiculous metaphor. To devote a lot of energy and attention to things that live on phones doesn’t mean you shouldn’t have a fabulous front page.
THE STORY ON CHOIRE! Will you attend NYFW? I am going to cruise through a little bit! Favorite American designers? I’m not going to answer that—I don’t want to make endorsements! That’s Vanessa [Friedman]’s joy and pain. Do you speak multiple languages? No, and I’ve tried. My husband is bilingual, and I’m very jealous. We’ve tried a tiny bit of a home immersion, and I’m like, “I can’t watch this telenovela.” Any plans for another book after your first [Very Recent History: An Entirely Factual Account of a Year (c. AD 2009) in a Large City]? I was halfheartedly writing one for a year. It was about a young blogger who gets to murder a lot of men and winds up at The New Yorker as the happy ending. It’s very timely. I think people will love this book. You have more than 1K Twitter followers and less than 20 tweets—what’s the deal? I set up this thing a couple of years ago to delete all my tweets older than seven days, and I’m not really sure how to turn it off. But I’m sort of okay with it. I felt burdened by them. Twitter is disposable for me. How are the cats? The cats are well. It’s very embarrassing, having three cats. I had two and then one appeared on the street. Their names are William James, Peregrine—Perry, really—and Linden, named after the tree not the president. We found him under a Linden tree. It’s bad! But they’re incredibly well-trained. They sleep at the foot of the bed like dogs; they have feeding times. What really helped me is automatic dry food feeders. I could talk about this much more, because Page 2 of Styles will be devoted entirely to cats!
What kind of stories will you be orchestrating? A Styles story is often about innovation, whether that’s the pricing of clothing or technology or social rules. The evolving states of marriage and family and workplaces, the way we confront the legacy of how we live with the actuality of how we live—all that stuff is Styles. So, specific stories? There’s a million I’ve seen in the past few weeks that I wish I had a whole team of crack journalists and editors to have done. I’m jealous of a lot of stuff. There’s a lot of top-notch publishing out there. Everyone talks about media being in turmoil, but we did democratize media and voices a bit. We’ve come a long way with letting people write from a point of view and report on topics that they would not have been able to cover in decades past. The competition is great. Do you think that Styles has had its finger on the pulse in the past? No, but I’m not sure that it’s always supposed to. This kind of goes deep into what Styles is. Ask me again in six months if it does, or should. What’s your relationship with fashion director Vanessa Friedman like? Oh, we don’t know each other at all—it’s going to be great! September 5 is the wackiest start date in the history of jobs in this world. We have five seconds to be like, “Hi!” And your relationship with Gawker founder Nick Denton? It’s good but fraught, which I think is the relationship everyone has with Nick. He’s a tough character, but a fascinating man. I think he has a really weird, exciting chapter after his rather explosive most recent chapter. I’m looking forward to what he does next. Is the word “blog” still relevant today? No, and it probably never was. It was a weird thing we had to use to make sense of things. I mean, that was the Gawker joke, that The New York Times was a fancy blog, because it was publishing rapidly and iteratively. We were all blogging—some of us were just paid less. Why do you think you’ve been able to survive the fickle world of media? I actually haven’t survived the fickle world of media that well. I’ve moved out of apartments in the middle of the night, I’ve owed massive amounts of money to the IRS, I’ve searched for gas and cigarette money in the couch cushions. I’ve done all these things as a grown adult man, not as a 19-year-old, and it was not cute. I think everyone makes it look easy when they have a good job or are wearing nice shoes, but anyone who wants to work in journalism has downs and ups, and we don’t want to talk about the downs as much as we should. Especially in New York and other big cities, it’s easy to look around and think everyone is so pretty and well-dressed, and doing so amazing, and they have a deal at HBO, and they’re selling a show to Netflix, and what do I have? And they’re probably home crying, being cheated on, or getting fired. You know what I mean? This stuff is all an illusion. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
talentScout
LIFE SOURCE
Ever since LIFEWTR hit the shelves in February 2017, it’s become a bona fide hydration obsession. Just in time for fashion week, the brand has partnered with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) on its new Series 3 bottles, featuring artwork by Adam Dalton Blake, Tiffany Huang, and Ghazaleh Khalifeh. These talented young designers are members of the CFDA+ platform that supports recent design graduates, and thanks to LIFEWTR, they’re already making quite the splash. BY ASHLEY BAKER
ADAM DALTON BLAKE
What was your concept for the LIFEWTR artwork? It’s all about seeing the world for all the diversity and color that there is. Each of the people on the bottle are interconnected and wearing fun glasses that allow them to see the beautiful and vibrant colors that we are all made of. The art also represents the amazing fashionistas and fashionistos of New York City. What was the biggest challenge you encountered in the design process? Thinking about how to design a print that could act as both a singular graphic for the bottle and a repeat to be printed on fabric. However, it was also freeing, thanks to LIFEWTR, who gave us full reign to figure out what we wanted to do. What appealed to you about the idea of designing packaging that is being experienced by tens of millions of water drinkers? LIFEWTR is so great because they are giving a platform to emerging artists and designers. The idea of so many people carrying around my design, which I incorporated into my first show at fashion week, is an idea that a recent graduate can only dream of! You’ve worked for Robert Geller, Tommy Hilfiger, and Greg Foley. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What were the most valuable lessons you learned from them? From Robert, I learned how hands-on you have to be with each of your collections. Also, being nice and smart gets you very far. At Tommy Hilfiger, I learned how to be a little cog in a big fashion machine, and what that entails day-to-day. And with Greg, helping with illustrations for his coffee-table book, I learned so much about fashion history, as well as the art of constantly working and reworking to make a final product as good as it needs to be. In addition to designing your eponymous line, you work as an assistant designer of knits and sweaters at Bonobos. What brought you to the company, and what does your job entail? Bonobos is a company that is full of bold prints, novelty fabrics, and great people! It’s so great infusing my
aesthetic of bright and fun elements into a company that also has that vibe. I get to draw embroideries, illustrate new bodies, and create graphics, all with a sense of fun and whimsy. What’s the concept for your Spring 2018 collection? Fifteen, Love! is a contemporary menswear collection inspired by my tennis-playing father in the late 1980s, alongside the kitsch-craft aesthetic of my childhood. This collection has also become a textile and texture
exploration using textiles such as latch-hooked yarns, boiled wool, velvet, velvet corduroy, faux fur, and more. On your website, you liken your clothes to a “visual highlighter.” What gives them that quality? There’s a sea of navy, grey, and sometimes maroon in menswear right now, and in that sea, my clothes can be spotted from a mile away. They are full of color, texture, and sometimes even shimmer. ß
courtesy
This New Yorker spends his 9-to-5 as a designer at Bonobos. On his downtime, he’s perfecting a whimsical, modern take on American menswear.
GHAZALEH KHALIFEH After studying fashion and design in both the United States and in Europe, Khalifeh is now making magic from her home base of Marin County, California.
You live on the coast. Tell us about your relationship with water! I spend a lot of time along the rugged Californian coast of Marin County, and sometimes spend many days and nights in a beach town, waking and sleeping to the sound of the waves. I spend time not only meditating along the shore, but also foraging natural treasures that leave me in awe of all the divine beauty of this planet! It’s not only grounding to be among a mostly natural habitat, but overwhelming—in a wonderful way—to be reminded of the vastness of the universe. What was your concept for the bottle artwork? I sought to create a print that resembles a splash of water, and chose to use celebratory colors that celebrate the vitality of life, as much of life’s vitality comes from water itself! I also feel the splash of shapes resemble an abstract interpretation of water in the form of wildflowers, as well as the paisleys that stem from my Iranian heritage. What appealed to you about the idea of designing packaging that is being experienced by tens of millions of water drinkers? It makes the art and design visible to such a broad audience, be it indoors, at a park, on public transportation, and beyond! I believe strongly in making art and design accessible to all, especially to children. The more visible art and design are to the masses, the greater chance there is for it to inspire all of us into a more positive future. Additionally, when the print of a water bottle is appealing, it can beckon one to purchase and consume more water and stay hydrated, which is essential to wellness. What’s the concept for your Spring 2018 capsule collection? It’s inspired by the concept of how beautiful and vital
THE LATEST WITH LIFEWTR
Olga Osminkina-Jones, PepsiCo’s VP of Hydration, explains the genesis of Series 3
the peaceful coexistence of all cultures and races with both natural and man-made environments is. I explore such concepts on a tactile level from the perspective of my own Iranian heritage, and the nomadic muse rises from it. I imagine this muse stepping beyond borders, to experience a world without them. You recently graduated from Academy of Art University, and you also trained in Paris. What were the most valuable lessons from those experiences? I spent much of my twenties in academia, and one of the many valuable lessons I learned is the importance of building paths toward dreams from the inside-out, and not from the outside-in. When I allowed myself to accept that I’d pave my own design path here, global opportunities that have surpassed my wildest expectations began to present themselves to me. ß
How has LIFEWTR evolved? It’s already proving itself to be a big success, not only in the art and fashion communities, but to consumers at large, mainly thanks to the fact that we are a purpose-driven brand. Our audience is very intrigued by the cultural angles and subjects that we cover, and also very excited to support the emerging artists and fashion designers whom we’ve put at the forefront. What’s the focus for Series 3? We’re really zeroing in on the fact that there are so many talented fashion school graduates out there, but only a fraction of them manage to not just make it in the fashion world, but build their
name and create their own label. How did LIFEWTR and the CFDA team up? Even before LIFEWTR was in the marketplace, we were talking to the Council of Fashion Designers of America about what the future could be like if we were to join forces. We really believe that fashion is one of the strongest expressions of living art. And the CFDA, in turn, is an organization that is fully committed to supporting fashion talent at different stages of their development. We both see the partnership as very organic, authentic, and true to the goals and vision of both partners. How do these three designers
complement one another? They are united by absolutely amazing talent, true passion behind what they do, and commitment to making it. How has the art world responded to the LIFEWTR platform? Thanks to our commitment to the world of art, and our relationships with different incredible partners such as the CFDA, we were able to build something the art world has truly started to take notice of. We are now the official water of the Frieze Art Fair. We’ve launched an endowment fund with them for the Brooklyn Museum, with LIFEWTR picking up the purchase of one of the major works out of
the Frieze Art Fair and showing it in the Brooklyn Museum. It goes to show that our commitment is really backed up by our actions, and it allows us to build a reputation that we are proud of. What can you tell us about the LIFEWTR show that’s happening during New York Fashion Week? I liken it to being given a Superbowl opportunity right out of college! [Laughs] LIFEWTR, along with the CFDA, is providing support for these designers to showcase their debut NYFW Spring/Summer ’18 collections. The looks will feature prints that are also seen on the bottles, as well as other pieces they have brought to life.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
talentScout TIFFANY HUANG
A bona fide textile savant with a penchant for color and texture, the New Yorkbased Huang is making some seriously cool art that looks as great on a water bottle as it does on a dress.
accessory, and by incorporating my artwork onto the bottles, they also become a part of someone’s outfit. What initially drew you to the medium of textiles? Ever since I was a child, I’ve always been drawn to color and texture; and after enrolling at Parsons [School of Design], I was introduced to this world of textiles, and I was immediately hooked by the idea of creating my own fabric. Being able to learn and participate in a thousand-year-old tradition passed down by artisans is a big honor, and I feel a sense of responsibility to keep these crafts alive. What’s the concept behind ItchyItchy, your new start-up? It was founded by my partner Kailu Guan and me, and we create storytelling experiences that incorporate fashion, technology, and spatial design. We find a huge disconnect between the art and the commercial side of fashion. We try to bring in the idea that fashion creativity can exist in an environment that commercializes the experience rather than the object itself. You’ve won several awards for your work, like the Parsons x Kering Empowering Imagination Award. Where do you see yourself in five years? I see myself continuing to challenge storytelling in fashion, and would love to see ItchyItchy become an event that attracts people to come and interact with clothing, and
hopefully attract companies in fashion or other fields to collaborate with us. What’s the concept for your Spring 2018 collection, Umbrella Ghosts? It’s a collection of characters inspired by the Taiwanese superstition that ghosts live inside of umbrellas, and opening one indoors will invite the ghosts into one’s home. The collection explores various universal fears through the eyes of each character. Each look has a print that acts as an augmented reality trigger, which opens the virtual reality space, allowing the audience to explore the worlds of each character and confront their fears. ß
...AND STEVEN KOLB WEIGHS IN! How did the CFDA+ program come together? In 2013, the CFDA launched CFDA+ as a platform for the best graduating talent from top schools around the world. Our aim was to connect emerging designers to industry opportunities, and provide our 500-plus membership with access to top talent. The CFDA and LIFEWTR Series 3 NYFW presentation brings this support to the next level, providing visibility, mentorship, and professional opportunities to three CFDA+ alumni.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What does membership in the program entail? CFDA+ spotlights the best of graduate talent globally. Each year, designer selection begins with an academic nomination, followed by a portfolio review, a CFDA interview, and a final committee selection. In 2016, we received more than 250 applications from about 30 leading fashion programs. We selected 51 CFDA+ design graduates who were highly creative, visionary, and skilled in specializations, including apparel, textiles, accessories, jewelry, and who showcased an interest in technology,
sustainability, and other emerging areas in fashion. What appealed to the CFDA about the work of Adam, Tiffany, and Ghazaleh? Each demonstrates a unique design ethos. Adam has a love for humor, color, and American textile craft techniques like latch hooking. Tiffany is all about technology and fashion futures, including augmented reality, while Ghazaleh’s work begins with authentic, handcrafted, upcycled textiles. In addition to sustainable materials, her work also focuses on co-creation and multicultural diversity. Why did their aesthetics align well with LIFEWTR? LIFEWTR’s philosophy is
centered on advancing creativity, art, and design as a source of inspiration. Adam, Ghazaleh, and Tiffany all share one thing in common— talent. Their ease with color, graphic, and print, and their vision, energy, and dynamic creativity are a perfect fit for LIFEWTR. How do these kinds of collaborations serve emerging designers? By partnering with LIFEWTR, we are able to provide three CFDA+ designers with the invaluable opportunity to show their work as part of NYFW. The early visibility, exposure, and mentorship can help propel these talents to the next level in their careers.
g e tty i ma g e s ( 1 ) ; a l l oth e r s c o u r t e s y
What was your concept for the bottle artwork? It’s inspired by my love for adventure. I designed an abstract treasure map print, so when people take the bottle with them, they are inspired to explore their surroundings. How did you select the colors? The dominating color is yellow, which is the meaning of my last name. I find the color very optimistic and cheerful, and I want to communicate this energy. What was the biggest challenge you encountered in the design process? To design a print that is true to my vision, but at the same time interacts with the most important element: water. Many parts of the print are carved out, creating areas of transparency that allow the water to interact with the print. What appealed to you about the idea of designing packaging that is being experienced by tens of millions of water drinkers? I really love the idea of inviting artists and designers to design the packaging for LIFEWTR while showcasing our work. This makes art more accessible and less intimidating, and hopefully it will inspire more people to create! Much of your work focuses on the way that textiles interact with the human body. How did you integrate that conversation into your work with LIFEWTR? In recent years, water bottles have become a really trendy
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DESperately seeking Ralph A fashion show in Bedford, New York? We schlepped to the sleepy suburb and asked the locals to weigh in as denizen Ralph Lauren prepares to unveil his Fall 2017 collections in his home garage. Ready to ride? By KRISTEN HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEFANIA CURTO
MOLLY 25, barista
HEATHER 45, manager of G.E. Brown Fine Food & Provisions Have you seen Ralph? A few times. Will you be attending his show? Probably not, no offense. What do you order at the Polo Bar? Is that where people play polo and drink? Close! Where do you shop? Bubble & Tweet next door is great.
erin 42, MOM
firstview (6); getty images (1); shutterstock (1)
Have you spotted Ralph around town? [Laughs] I’ve never seen him. My husband has! Do you know where he lives? I’ve definitely driven by. Who does he look like in this photo? My grandpa. Where do you like to shop? Locally, and at the Woodbury Common outlets.
Ever seen this guy around? Twice! Why aren’t you going to his show? I work a lot. It’s at his house in Bedford. In that case, I’ll bring coffee. Who would you like to see walk? Seeing Kendall Jenner up here would be pretty cool. What’s your fave order at Polo Bar? I don’t go to that country club.
ARTHUR 80s, co-owner of bedford wine merchantS How often do you see Ralph? He tends to ride by in one of his vintage cars. He’s hosting his fashion show here. Who should walk? I haven’t got the foggiest notion. Do you go to the Polo Bar? Doesn’t he sell a lot of antiques there? One of my friend’s daughters, who’s a buyer, bought all the antiques for him. Any idea where Ralph Lauren lives? Over yonder!
OLIVIA 22, LANDSCAPING & IT assistant Have you been to a fashion show? My sorority would do a Be Beautiful Week. How far would you travel for one? I probably just wouldn’t go—I’m not very stylish. How often do you see Ralph? I think I see Chevy Chase more than I see him. Do you know him? My dad built his house in Greenwich [Connecticut]! Are you attending his show? No. I feel bad! Martha Stewart is a local, too. Do you know her? She’s my best friend’s next-door neighbor! Who should walk? Adwoa Aboah! A kid I went to school with designed her Met Ball dress. Where do you shop for clothes? The T.J.Maxx clearance rack.
EMILY 25, interior designer How often do you see this man? Pretty often! I live close to him. Have you been to a fashion show? I went to Marc Jacobs in 2012. Are going to Ralph’s Fall ’17 show? I'd love to, but I’m not planning on it. Who should walk? I love Karlie Kloss. Where do you shop? Zara and J.Crew whenever they have a sale—not a lot of Ralph Lauren. Between Clint Eastwood and Charlie Rose, who does he resemble? Charlie Rose. They look like brothers!
ALEXANDRA 49, owner of bedford gourmet Have you been to a fashion show? Yeah, in Vegas, like 20 years ago. How often do you see Ralph? Occasionally. Do you work for him? No. Who does he remind you of? Bernie Sanders!
bedford 411!
Population: 17,335 distance to nyc: 50 miles, but only 65 minutes on the Metro-North Railroad! Famous locals: Blake Lively & Ryan Reynolds, Kate & Rooney Mara, Richard Gere, Catherine ZetaJones, and Glenn Close prized landmark: The Bedford Oak, a 500-year-old tree town blemish: Bedford Hills Correctional Facility for Women (where Amy Fisher, “The Long Island Lolita,” served time) fun fact: Ralph Lauren and Martha Stewart are neighbors. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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MATCH THE EDitor TO THE DESK
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It’s where you dock your desktop and devour a midday salad, but your desk reveals much, much more. Can you pair the tchotchkes with their owner? By KRISTEN HEINZINGER Photography BY STEFANIA CURTO
This desk is “so cosmic,” non?
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These bangles are beloved by this editor, who can be found wearing them most days.
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g e t t y i m a g e s ( 9 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 2 ) ; a l l ot h e r s c o u r t e s y
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THE LINEUP
A. adam rapoport
B. elaine welteroth
C. eric wilson
D. anne fulenwider
E. jane francisco
F. jay fielden
G. michele Promaulayko
H. graydon Carter
I. nathan lump
J. michelle lee
K. stellene volandes
L. cindi leive
Editor in chief, Bon AppĂŠtit
Editor in chief, Teen Vogue
6 Fashion news director, InStyle
Miniature airplanes, the perfect collectible for the jet-setting type!
Editor in chief, Good Housekeeping
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Who might get angsty if they don’t start the morning with a green juice?
Editor in chief, Cosmopolitan
Editor in chief, Marie Claire
Editor in chief, Esquire
Editor in chief, Vanity Fair
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Editor in chief, Travel + Leisure
Editor in chief, Town & Country
Editor in chief, Allure
Editor in chief, Glamour
ANSWERS: 1. C; 2. D; 3. H; 4. K; 5. G; 6. I; 7. B; 8. F; 9. J; 10. A; 11. E; 12. L FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CHICLessons
Drink rosé, always. Just try not to talk too much after the fourth glass.
Eat real food. We’re as susceptible to the latest matcha-based weight loss program as the next gonzo front row–goer, but subsisting entirely on chlorophyll water, bananas, and Goop-sourced nutritional supplements suggests a troubling preoccupation with your pant size. So 2004, no?
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Hire a proofreader to CLEAN UP your pitches. Certain errors (you’re vs. your, their vs. there) leave editors existentially gutted, and guarantee radio silence in return. But warning—if you’re a publicist who insists on addressing strangers as “hon,” “love,” or worst of all, “hey,” we can’t really help you.
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Don’t wear Vaquera, especially on a date with a finance bro.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
at his or her desk. Task this workhorse to do your entire job while you spend your days on self-promotion and primping at Sharon Dorram.
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runway collection, wax poetic on its references to Ghesquière and Galliano. And while we’re at it, it’s pronounced “Nico-lah Guess-key-air.”
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Hire a brilliant but obscure No. 2 who lives
When asked your opinion about any
Begin vacationing in Palo Alto. Even if your most high-profile rendezvous is with a personal stylist at Vuitton in the Stanford Shopping Center, document your entire stay on IG and create some photo ops in front of Apple, Google, and Facebook HQs. Acceptable captions include “Okay, okay—I took the meeting!” and “Sorry, it’s still top secret.”
GUARANTEED WAYS TO APPEAR SMARTERTHAN YOU ACTUALLY ARE In fashion
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Inspired by our friends at Forbes!
Names to drop: Katie Grand, Sofia Coppola, Vogue Runway, David Carey, and Jack Dorsey.
Names to avoid:
5 Do wear jorts, especially for a meeting with Karl Lagerfeld. It certainly worked for Cathy Horyn!
Katie Couric, Sophia Amoruso, Rent the Runway, David Pecker, and Jack Daniels.
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We don’t just obsessively study the fashion world. We rock it, too. LIM grads are tireless workers, fashion-biz devotees, creative powerhouses. They’ve been taught by expert faculty, brought excellence to several internships with top companies, and adopted mentors from some of the most powerful and influential networks in the industry. Our students turn real experiences into real careers. When LIM grads enter the workforce, it’s with a confidence that distinguishes them from their peers.
FIND OUT MORE AT LIMCOLLEGE.EDU/BEYOND
ALLISON TRACEY '19 Fashion Merchandising
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“STEAL THE SHOW” HAIR 24H HOLD ULTRA FINE MIST.
WORK IT