the
Monday, September 8, 2014
w o r t fron
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tom! carine! Stefano! marc! naomi! kate! Katie! kendall! christy...
le tout fashion at the fmas
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FEAST OR FASHION FOF14_TheDaily_spread_f.indd 1-2
FASHION ALL DAY. FOOD ALL NIGHT.
Bon Appétit’s Feast or Fashion celebrates the most acclaimed chefs, restaurants, and noteworthy names in fashion during New York’s most buzzed about week.
KICKING OFF
the festivities is BA’s Hot 10 Party in honor of America’s Best New Restaurants, followed by intimate chef and designer dinners at the city’s chicest venues.
NEW FOR 2014:
Bon Appétit has partnered with I KNOW THE CHEF to provide on-demand VIP experiences and exclusive access to special Feast or Fashion menus at hot spots throughout the city. PRESENTED BY
ALL-CLAD I ALL-NEW 2015 FORD MUSTANG I ESSIE I FERRARI-CARANO WINERY I LIEBHERR MAYBELLINE NEW YORK I MOUNTAIN VALLEY SPRING WATER I REVEAL CALVIN KLEIN I STRIVECTIN
BAFeastOrFashion.com
9/5/14 12:37 PM
CHIC Snaps
A model moment with Gigi Hadid, Alessandra Ambrosio, Kendall Jenner, Christy Turlington Burns, Naomi Campbell, Lindsey Wixson, and Liu Wen
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
a
night to remember
“I don’t think anybody in the world thinks more of her than I do,” Marc Jacobs said of his longtime collaborator, Katie Grand, at The Daily Front Row’s second-annual Fashion Media Awards at the new Park Hyatt Hotel Friday night. “Well, maybe her husband, Steve, does!” It was a lovefest all around, as le tout fashion came out en force to celebrate 2014’s most brilliant culture makers. Co-hosted by Gigi Hadid (resplendent in Tom Ford) and Yahoo Style editor in chief Joe Zee, it was a gathering for the record books, with old friends, colleagues, and even competitors from around the world rallying together under one roof to toast our industry’s best and brightest. PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK McMULLAN
The night’s emcees Gigi Hadid and Joe Zee
CHIC Snaps
The star-studded (and leggy) front row: Stefano Tonchi, Claire Danes, Alessandra Ambrosio, Marc Jacobs, Katie Grand, Kendall Jenner, and Hailey Baldwin
Tom Ford, presenter
Carine Roitfeld, Fashion Creative of the Year
“I landed at 3:30 p.m., and after this I’m walking out the door and getting back on a plane. There are only about five people in the world that I would do that for. Carine Roitfeld is one of them. Sometimes from the outside, people don’t realize that in the fashion world, it’s possible to make true friendships. We all know Carine is beautiful, is stylish, is chic, has impeccable taste. One of the things I don’t know if everyone knows about Carine is that she’s one of the most loyal, true friends that anyone could have. In fact, it’s her honesty and loyalty that make her so good at what she does. She makes everyone she works with better—whether you’re a photographer, designer—she makes you better because she tells you the truth. Sometimes you might not want to hear it, but she tells it. That’s what makes Carine, Carine. So to my dear friend Carine Roitfeld, I present this award. Caaaaarine!”
“In life, and especially in fashion, there are few people with great talent, and you feel blessed when you meet them. To work in this world, you need to be surrounded by people who trust you and believe in you. Tom, thank you for flying over just for me! Thank you for all these years of collaboration—you being here tonight means a lot to me…. You are my best English teacher! I want to thank Jonathan Newhouse, who was the first to give me the editor-in-chief position. I learned a lot from you. Thank you, David Carey and Duncan Edwards for the crazy opportunity—for giving me the chance to show my work in 30 Harper’s Bazaars all over the world…. And a special thanks to Stephen Gan, my partner in CR Fashion Book. Fashion is about dreaming, and my dream 20 years ago was to do a magazine with you.”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
JULIA ROBERTS SEPTEMBER 2014
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHELANGELO DI BATTISTA
20 YEARS!
© 2014 Time Inc. All rights reserved. InStyle is a registered trademark of Time Inc.
CHIC Snaps
kendall jenner,
presenter “The first time I discovered LOVE, I realized the editor in chief, Katie Grand, had a fantastic, cool way of showing fashion. Fast-forward to my very first time doing NY Fashion Week—my agency called to say that I’d be meeting her for the Marc Jacobs show. I was so nervous, kind of like I am right now. Lucky for me, Katie was super nice and she booked me for the show. Since then we’ve shared many adventures, including my very own cover of LOVE. Her contributions to the fashion industry are a constant source of new ideas that are a beautiful reminder to all of us that this business was always meant to be a celebration of creativity.”
katie grand,
International Fashion Magazine of the Year, LOVE “I want to thank Jonathan Newhouse for letting us do the magazine we want to do and for supporting us for six years. It’s been everything an editor can hope for. My publisher, Catherine Russell, makes it work financially—she’s brilliant. Marc Jacobs, thank you for inspiring me every day I work with you. I love you so much! All my friends here tonight— Luella, Katie Hillier, Tabitha, Kevin—and especially my very handsome, very patient husband, Steve.”
inez van lamsweerde and vinoodh matadin, Fashion Photographers of the Year
“We love our jobs so much, for so many reasons. We love putting designers’ and editors’ ideas into the context of the life of a woman to show her dreams, environment, and significance…. We love nothing more than the exquisite human beings who come across our lens. If at the end of our workday, the models leave the set happier and more fulfilled than when they walked in, we feel our shoot has already succeeded. We’d especially like to thank our dear friend Stephen Gan for taking care of us since 1994, and introducing us to literally everyone in New York City. Our gratitude goes to everyone who was ever in front, or behind, our lens. Specifically to our great and loyal teams…. Last but not least, to the beautiful boy who is so endlessly inspiring and hopefully a future collaborator, our son, Charles Star Matadin.” —Inez van Lamsweerde
christy turlington Burns, presenter
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
“It is my absolute honor to talk about these people. Inez and Vinoodh—they need no last names. They have them but don’t need them. They’re an incredible team…. What’s unique is that they were just starting, and I was sort of perceiving my own career as being sort of over. We kind of crossed each other…they’ve continued to pull me out of my rabbit holes, and every time I’m grateful. They have a unique talent for making the subject feel like there’s nobody else in the room. I can count on one hand the photographers who I’ve had that connection with in my decadeslong career, and that number is even smaller in terms of who I can count on as friends.”
edward enninful,
presenter “It’s an honor for me to be here this evening to present this award to—I’ll say my sister—Naomi Campbell. The first time I met Naomi was 23 years ago. We were on a cover shoot for i-D magazine. I was a very young stylist, and to me, she was unquestionably the most beautiful woman I’d ever seen, and she still is. On the day of the shoot, I remember being taken aback—not only by her beauty, but also by her personality…. Naomi Campbell is a force of nature, as most people know. There’s no one else like her. She is powerful and girlish, all at the same time. She captivates the world so much in the process. In short, she’s a true star. Richard Avedon, Michael Jackson, Herb Ritts, Gianni Versace, Saint Laurent, Steven Meisel, Azzedine Alaïa, and Nelson Mandela—throughout her 27-year career, she’s worked with every major figure in every walk of life.... As many mothers have reassured their children, beauty is only skin-deep. Personality is what really matters. Naomi is a blueprint for what happens when you’re blessed with both.”
claire danes,
presenter “I realized today that W Magazine is a lot like Carrie Mathison. It’s intriguing, mysterious, and also a little crazy, in the best possible way. Stefano Tonchi, editor of W, has created a brilliant, fascinating world that’s always surprising. When I open an issue of W, I know that it will enthrall, engage, and yes, sometimes shock by what’s inside. Boo! So it’s with great pleasure that I present Stefano Tonchi and W Magazine with the Magazine of the Year award.”
naomi campbell,
Television Personality of the Year “The thing that’s provided me with the most fun is being able to mentor aspiring young models. Since the show, many of the girls have gone on to do major campaigns. I’m extremely proud. I know you’ll see them in many future things. Everyone in this room is passionate about this industry, and we all want it to continue on and thrive. What I ask all of you to do is do our part to make sure we mentor the next designers, photographers, stylists, and editors by sharing our experience in the industry and make it stronger and benefit each other.”
stefano tonchi,
Magazine of the Year, W “Magazines, like movies, are the work of a lot of people. Behind every cover, every word, and every image, there is so much work…. So I accept this award for my staff, for the people who work for me, the people who put in so much passion every day…. Two years ago we celebrated our 40th anniversary. I consider myself one of the guardians of what this magazine is—something precious, something special, something unique.”
CHIC Snaps
Laverne Cox, presenter “Carol Lim and Humberto Leon are true risk-takers who are constantly challenging our expectations of the fashion world. Every time I see [Kenzo’s Fall/Winter ’14 ad campaign], it makes me want to revisit the imagery, and even more important, it makes me think differently about the visual world around me. And I love the idea of making people think differently about the world around them.”
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim,
Fashion Advertising Campaign of the Year, Kenzo “This is one of the biggest honors for us. There are obviously a lot of great ad campaigns out there. Thank you obviously to Toilet Paper. If you guys aren’t familiar, Toilet Paper is Maurizio Cattelan, Pierpaolo Ferrari, and Micol Talso, and without them, it wouldn’t be the same experience.”—Humberto Leon “We would also like to thank Pierre and Sophie from Kenzo. We always bring them our crazy ideas, and they always let us take the brand to its outer limits. I want to thank our friends and supporters who are here with us tonight, and also Brian from Black Frame, for always advising us.”—Carol Lim
Stephen Gan, presenter “The minute I met Kate Upton, I knew that she had huge potential. She had a Marilyn Monroe quality that creates not only excellent pictures but is good company as well. In 2012, a Victoria’s Secret casting director said she was “too blonde and too obvious.” With countless magazine covers and more than 1 million Instagram and Twitter followers, I can’t help but wonder what that casting director is thinking now. Kate didn’t just overcome discrimination, she rose above it, using her Internet following to change the conversation about size and beauty in an entire industry. In short, she has surpassed my wildest hopes and expectations for her.”
Kate Upton,
Social Media Award
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
“Stephen, I’m so inspired by you—an artist, a visionary, and an icon in the industry—and to have you stand up here and say those things about me is so amazing. I feel like I’ve done a lot in a couple of years, and social media was a great tool for me to accomplish all those things. It gives you the opportunity to show your personality. I’ve always been a talker, and I feel like on shoots, sometimes, people want me to quiet down a little bit, so social media is a good outlet for me to get all that out—all my opinions.”
Kevin O’Malley, Publisher of the Year, ELLE “I’m very proud to work at ELLE, and I think it’s been a rather interesting transition for me, coming from being on the men’s side for so many years. I thank David Carey and Michael Clinton for this opportunity. ELLE U.S. remains the cornerstone of a very, very big global network…. I’m very grateful to work with someone of Robbie Myers’ caliber. She’s a fantastic partner, and she has been so committed to ELLE’s ongoing relevance and success.”
S:13”
©2014 Maybelline LLC.
S:10.25”
CHIC Snaps
andré leon talley, presenter
graydon carter, Best September Issue, Vanity Fair
“Vanity Fair’s September issue is a world of exceptionalism; it is a world of perfect, imperfect, imagined, tragic, glamorous, selfmade—the world of wonder, success, flames extinguished, flames dancing, the miracles of life. I am so honored to present this award to my dear friend and a great, great editor, Graydon Carter.”
“What Brandusa Niro and her staff have done with The Daily is create just the most innovative and original magazine to come along in decades. For those of us at Vanity Fair to receive this recognition from this iconic part of the fashion world gives us great pleasure and great joy. On behalf of my incredible staff, including the art and style departments, who are here tonight and perform so many duties in every issue, specifically this one, I want to thank you so much.”
Ying Chu, Glamour, Beauty Innovator of the Year, presented by Maybelline New York
“This award goes to team Glamour beauty, many of whom are here—Patricia, Lindsey, and all of the editors, whose creativity and wicked smarts lead the stories on Glamour, Glam Belleza Latina, and Lipstick.com. Always fresh, always insightful, and always gorgeous. And a shout-out, of course, goes to all the wonderfully talented artists and collaborators here with us tonight…. It’s such an honor for me to represent the beauty world here tonight in the company of so many fashion icons. Glamour turns 75 this year and has never looked better.”
a special thanks to Our Sponsors David Greenberg, presenter “Our goal is to empower all women of all origins to make their mark and change the world. And our beauty innovator of the year is just that…. Just to give you some astounding numbers: 12 million readers of Glamour magazine, 3.5 million monthly uniques for Glamour.com, and another 2 million on Lipstick.com, and Glam Belleza Latina has an enormous following as well. If you have spent any time reading anything that Ying Chu writes, you will be amazed at how honest it is and how sincere, how interactive and involving it is. Her readers respond. She provokes them, and I think that’s the way people like to interact in media today.” FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Maybelline New York, Wolford, Evian, Gibson, Nicolas Feuillatte, and Cointreau. We thank you for making the FMAs possible. It was an exceptional, inspiring, and fun evening.
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z z Bu R FOOTWEA ! S W E N
ott’s Behold Jeremy Scers at af lo ed mismatch the Bazaar party.
Carine Roitfeld, Lady Gaga, and Stephen Gan
Kendall Jenner
Fix
SCENE
Lily Aldridge
Donatella Versace
HARPER’S BAZAAR ICONS PARTY Daphne Groeneveld
Toni Garrn
EVERYBODY LOVES JOAN! Simon Doonan: I have many, many Joan Rivers memories. I’m very fortunate to have spent time with her over the years. I’m devastated that she’s gone. She’s a magical, amazing, creative force, and we’re all going to miss her. Andrew Bevan: I met her at LaGuardia Airport in the security line at 5 a.m. They were basically doing a strip search—she was wearing a leopard-print coat and leopard-print shoes, and she was beaming. She was essentially doing a stand-up comedy routine in the security line. André Leon Talley: Underneath that veneer, which was super, super layered, there was always a nice, elegant and welldressed lady. She seemed to have wonderful values. She was the empress of mean, with elegance. Susan Kaufman: I saw her speak at Time Inc. the night before she went into a coma, and she was so hysterically funny, warm, so alive, and so smart. She even mentioned how lucky she was that she hadn’t had anything major go wrong. She quoted Winston Churchill and said, “When you laugh, it’s like taking a mini vacation.” I walked out feeling great. Fiona Byrne: I went to her house once for a party, and we were in her den and she came in and said, “This is where the hard liquor is,” and opened up a safe bookcase—there was a whole bar. She said, “Help yourself!” Fern Mallis: She was the first person to put a mic into a celebrity’s face and say, “Who are you wearing?” Before Joan Rivers, the dialogue was always about the FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
☛ “You guys just printed the best photo of me, so I really like you right now.”—Lynn Yaeger at Cushnie et Ochs. ☛ “I’ve been collecting Rihanna at Alexander Wang religious artifacts.”—Mickey Boardman at Cushnie et Ochs. ☛ “Selfie obsession is getting to me. Nicki Minaj at I don’t see the harm in a normal Alexander Wang picture.”—Nick Jonas at Richard Chai. ☛ “The stress of building a new business.”—Meredith Melling, on how she lost the baby weight, at CELEBS Peter Som. ☛ “I’ve gotten really good GALORE! at covering the microphone.”—Wes Gordon, who is being followed by a Finally. Sunday crew filming the CFDA/Vogue Fashion treated us to a slew Fund doc, at his show. ☛ “Should we of favorites, both start selling our tickets?”—Maxwell established and Osborne, on learning that Vanity emerging. Fair cited Public School as one of the most anticipated Candice Swanepoel shows, at Prabal Gurung. ☛ “Spending a day with The Daily in Sag Harbor and hosting a dinner together!”—Rebecca Taylor, on her summer highlights, at her show.
movie. Now, it’s all about the clothes. Christian Siriano: To have a woman poke fun at your clothing and make it feel like an honor was amazing. Brad Goreski: I had the opportunity to meet her when I did Fashion Police and of all the talk shows that I’ve done, I was most nervous to do that one. I wasn’t expecting her personality to be so kind and loving. Steven Kolb: I saw her perform many, many times, and I met her in person. Once, at an event, Joan signed the tan Helmut Lang jacket I was wearing. I still have it! Hamish Bowles: The last time I saw her perform was a year ago. She was trying out material, so she had all these sheets of paper on the floor. There were, like, Auschwitz jokes—I couldn’t believe where she was going! She was completely hysterical from beginning to end. She was a remarkable, truly astonishing entertainer. I remember going to her apartment once—it was very robber baron/ Marie Antoinette.
THE WORLD ACCORDING TO Vanity fair’s MICHAEL CARL! 5 thoughts at a fashion show that you shouldn’t say out loud 1. Couldn’t this have been a presentation? 2. Wait, I can’t remember—does Andrew Rosen own this brand? 3. That outfit is very aggressive for a Saturday morning. 4. Are her arms skinnier than mine? 5. Boy, that Samira is beautiful and chic. That’s how I would dress if I were a girl. *Okay, that one’s okay to say out loud.
DUBSTEPPING! With Skrillex at Alexander Wang
Are you pumped for the music? I hear that he’s got a good curation of dub. I’m excited to hear it. Do you own a lot of Wang? For sure. His long-sleeved T-shirts are especially awesome. So how are you surviving in this raging humidity? It’s not so bad! I was just in Mykonos, and the heat was way worse. Any plans for fall? I’m touring right now and releasing an album with Diplo. Is the scene more insane at your shows or a catwalk? It’s way different! It’s not the same people, that’s for sure.
RETAIL THERAPY!
With Scott Sternberg at the Band of Outsiders store opening How are you feeling right now? Fantastic. Doing a fashion show is such an effort and so much fun, but it’s also this weird thing where it happens and goes away. This is so fulfilling and exciting. Is Los Angeles your next retail step? Probably. It makes sense, but where do we open? I want to get this one right first.
EXPRESS YOURSELF!
With Elizabeth Crystal, chief marketing officer, Express, Inc. Why does your new campaign star, Kate Upton, have such selling power? She appeals to both men and women. She’s relatable and has an accessible image while being aspirational. She is a beautiful, iconic American brand. She’s fun, sexy, playful, and authentic, which comes across in her life and work. Fill in the blank: Kate Upton is the next… Lifestyle icon. Kate is not only an actor and fashion name, she is a role model for young women today. What’s new in Express’ world of denim? We have such an exciting lineup of denim now and into the fall season. Our favorites include Destruction, High-Rise, new washes, and the return of the flare, which is starting to gain traction for us and in the marketplace. It’s working!
bfa n y c . com ( 2 2 ) ; g e tt y imag e s ; all oth e r s co u r t e s y
GREAT EXPECTATIONS Caché has a whole new look! Jennifer Ehrenfeld, the brand’s SVP of design, explains the vibe. What can we expect from the new Caché? The collection is continually evolving to reflect a modern woman’s sensibility. Caché is trend-right and now offers a wider product assortment to attract a broader range of consumers. Our goal is to become a true lifestyle destination. Will the focus remain on eveningwear? We are a great fashion boutique for all the events in a woman’s life. We have terrific sportswear and day dresses that are great for the office or an afternoon luncheon, great day-to-date-night outfits, an expanding offering of great accessories, seasonal outerwear, and some amazing cocktail and evening dresses, of course!
z u B z ! d, J’ADORE GLAMSqua r ou to ks ecial than
Super-sp uad for the divine st be ies at GlamSqp for the FMAs. hair and makeu bit-forming! Warning: It’s ha
Kelly Quakenbush, Alix Pietrafesa, Alex Grossman, and Rochelle Bilow
Pamela Drucker Mann, Aaron Silverman, and Adam Rapoport
BON APPÉTIT PARTY
SCENE ☛ Bon Appétit
toasted its posse of Hot 10 chefs with The Daily by closing down Gotham The chefs behind West Market and dishing up nibbles Bon Appétit’s Hot 10 Restaurants from the Hot 10 chefs who flew in for the occasion, plus eats from the haute food hall’s outposts. A bevy of other chefs rolled in, like wd~50’s Wylie Dufresne, Estela’s Ignacio Mattos, and The Spotted Pig’s April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman. ☛ Even farther downtown, Nicole Miller celebrated her Spring ’15 collection with a dinner at Añejo.
Saks Fifth Avenue has just launched its new #SaksStyle hub on Saks.com, which will turn customers into the new online merchandisers. That means plenty of shoppable selfies. Saks social media director Qianna Smith fills us in.
RuPaul Tinsley Mortimer and Allison Hodge
Helen Lee Schifter and Janna Bullock
NICOLE MILLER DINNER
front row
Fix
DO YOU HAVE #SAKSSTYLE?
Sebastian Stan, Nicole Miller, and Margarita Levieva
the
How does it work? Hashtag your #SaksStyle images on Instagram, Tumblr, Twitter, and Facebook. We’re the first retailer to aggregate all of those platforms into one user experience. We partnered with Curalate, a leader in user-generated content and user analytics. They recently launched the “Like to Buy” feature on Instagram; Saks was the first luxury retailer to kick that off. What was the concept for the launch? We gifted our favorite Tumblr all-stars with shoes and had them experience #SaksStyle! Katie Rodgers from Paper Fashion sketched, and we also did an amazing video with NEXT models Naty Chabanenko and Bonnie Chen.
Editor in Chief, CEO
Brandusa Niro Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Christopher Tennant Executive Editor
Eddie Roche Deputy Editor
Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Contributing Editors Ashley Baker, Sarah Horne Grose Writer/Reporter Dena Silver Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Director George Maier Contributing Imaging Assistant Mihai Simion President, Publisher Paul Turcotte Account Director Chloe Worden Events & Corporate Partnerships Director Jessica Fafara Marketing Manager Kelly Carr Publishing Coordinator Piero Bellizzi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor
To advertise, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: turcotte@dailyfrontrow.com getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row
Blue Period For Dannijo’s latest collection, Global Makeup Artist for Maybelline New York, Yadim, created a statement look based around a bold eye treatment, swiping Eye Studio Color Tattoo Pure Pigments in Brash Blue across the lids. A soft lip, which was created using Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched, completed the effect. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2014. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.
On the cover: Emily DiDonato, photographed by Kenneth Willardt for Maybelline New York.
bfanyc.com (10); getty images (2); all others courtesy
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runway
Spring 2015
alexander
wang
The shoe was the thing chez Wang, but there was nary a shoelace on the runway. Instead, loads of sneakspiration throughout the clothes, from tread motifs to meshy fabrics. A totally fresh take on sportswear—not as if we would expect anything less!
altuzarRa What do you get when you mix Rosemary’s Baby, Moroccan blankets, Renaissance architecture, and deflated 18th-century dresses? Subtle, sexy brilliance. A triumph!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
WA N G : F I R ST V I E W; A LT U Z A R R A : G E T T Y I M A G E S
W W W. N I C O L E M I L L E R . C O M #NMwarrior SOHO, 77 GREENE STREET | UPTOWN, 780 MA D I S O N AV E N U E
runway
Spring 2015
jASON
WU
Return to chic! Grazie, Jason, for a gimmick-free collection of ultrawearable looks that we plan to live in come printemps. So many killer options for today’s career-obsessed woman, including briefcase-esque bags and slit skirts sure to liven up even the stuffiest boardrooms.
the PRABAL
GURUNG Back to the Himalayas. Once again, Gurung revisited his native Nepal, but new references included the national flower (rhododendron), trekking maps, and mountain landscapes. If you missed all that and focused instead on the great pantsuit you plan to wear at New Yorkers for Children, well, we don’t blame you.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview
runway
Spring
2015
nicole
miller Copacabana moment! You might find yourself singing the classic Barry Manilow tune while enjoying this collection. Already planning your next escape to the tropics, non? Between the peppy prints and the teensy crop tops, your warmweather wardrobe is all here. But remember: Do those crunches!
SUNO Art and commerce. Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis addressed both beautifully, with uncanny color combos, striped knits, and oversize checks perfect to charm the creative set that follows their every move.
beauty
trend
{Fresh Face}
alice lane FOR maybelline new york
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview
supima design competition
The
New Generation
of Chic Host Coco Rocha!
Introducing the
NEXT GENERATION…
The Inside Scoop on the Competition!
F
or this year’s Supima Design Competition, Supima has partnered with America’s leading design schools: Academy of Art University, Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, Fashion Institute of Technology, Kent State University, Rhode Island School of Design, and Savannah College of Art and Design. Each school nominated one of its top graduating seniors as a finalist for the Supima Design Competition. In May 2014, each of the six designers was assigned a faculty mentor, provided fabric from Supima’s most prestigious brand partners—AG Adriano Goldschmeid, Brooks Brothers, Carlo Bonomi, Nice Dyeing, Uniqlo—and asked to create capsule collections of women’s eveningwear that highlighted the unique characteristics of Supima cotton. The Supima Design Competition challenged each designer to rethink familiar fabric conventions: the woven fabrications customarily used as highend shirting; the fine jersey that goes into luxury tops and lingerie; and the sturdy denims, corduroys, and twills that make up premium jeans and sportswear. Designers were judged on originality, execution, and ability to showcase Supima, America’s luxury cotton. The winner received a $10,000 cash prize.
This Year’s Winner Anastasia Iafrate, Kent State University Anastasia Iafrate is originally from Russia but earned her BA in fashion design from Kent State University in Ohio. Intrigued by couture eveningwear, Iafrate infuses the love for her home country into her SDC capsule collection. The collection, titled “White Nights of St. Petersburg,” is an homage to the beauty of the city and its unique arctic circle twilight. Challenged to create eveningwear from what is usually seen as a “casual” fabric, Iafrate has enjoyed her experiments with Supima. One day, she hopes to have her own line.
The Seventh Annual Supima Design Competition Welcomes Its Latest Clique of Chic
The judges
ISABEL DUPRÉ
NATALIE JOOS Casting Agent
LORENZO MARQUEZ
Fashion Blogger
TOM FITZGERALD
Fashion Stylist
Fashion Blogger
BRYANBOY
KARLA MARTINEZ DE SALAS Fashion Market & Accessories Director, W Magazine
Fashion Blogger
PHIL OH
Photographer
MARCIA PATMOS Fashion Designer
MARY ALICE STEPHENSON
Style & Beauty Expert
BUXTON MIDYETTE
VP of Marketing, Supima
ROOPAL PATEL
Fashion Consultant
ANYA ZIOUROVA Fashion Stylist
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY
FROM THE FINALISTS!
sharon moon Rhode Island School of Design
david lee
yuxi bi
Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising
Savannah College of Art and Design
ou ma
jenny hoang
Fashion Institute of Technology
Academy of Art University
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CHIC Collection
Down Under
As a member of a prominent coat-manufacturing family, Dawn Levy knows her way around a wellconstructed jacket. Whether it’s down, fur, or wool, she’s got it covered under her eponymous label and its diffusion line, DL2. The next polar vortex isn’t looking so bad, now is it? BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
Are you a fan of cold weather? Of course! For as long as I can remember, I’ve always said that I can’t wait for that first crisp day so I can break out all my fall pieces. Where’s the strangest place you’ve ever worn a coat? Bali. Last time I visited, they had a little cold spell during a monsoon and it was freezing. I had just come off of a trip to Russia, so we had to break out all our coats to make it through the cold! And what’s your favorite cold-weather destination? Right here in New York! But for getaways, I love Park City, Utah, where my daughter lives. What was your first introduction to the coat industry? I came into the coat business really organically, because my husband is part of a four-generation coat manufacturing family. I used to eat, sleep, and drink the production process with The Levy Group before I ever started my own brand. We would travel all over the world for his work and wander through coat departments for hours. That’s where it all started. Years ago, the coat departments were very quiet, plain, and simple. I felt like we needed to do something there and be more creative. What was your first design gig, in regards to jackets? The Levy Group owns the license for Laundry. About 12 years ago I started designing Laundry outerwear, and then I moved to Esprit, and ABS. I also dabbled in design for Victoria’s Secret and their private label. Actually, we just did the coats that are going to be on their London runway show, which is coming up soon. Did you have any design experience before you took on Laundry? I owned a floral shop with my mom when I was younger,
insets: courtesy
but I knew I wanted to get into some type of design job at some point. I didn’t necessarily know it would be in fashion, but I definitely have a creative side. How many coats are hanging in your closet? I have quite a few, maybe a hundred or two hundred. Some women love shoes, but I love coats. They’re the first thing others see when you walk into a room, so it’s important they make a statement. And what’s your husband’s coat count? He probably owns about 15 or 16. What’s the Dawn Levy design philosophy? I felt like there was a void in the outerwear market and attention needed to be paid to the silhouette of down jackets. I wanted to give them more of a fit and flare look by giving them a defined waist. I also wanted to figure out how to make women feel beautiful while keeping them warm. And what’s DL2? DL2 is our diffusion line for a customer who is a bit edgier and has more of a downtown feel. What else do you specialize in, aside from down outerwear? We’ve just introduced fur in a big way! Last July I was traveling with some friends and we went into a vintage shop where I found a ton of real astrakhan coats. I thought about how to make it attainable. What I ended up doing was using rabbit fur to emulate the texture of astrakhan. The response has been phenomenal. Everyone’s buzzing that this winter will be colder than the last one. How should we prepare? First of all, we should be shopping now! I would recommend buying a long down coat and also a fabulous real or faux-fur coat to get you through the season.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CHIC Beauty
Maybelline’s
Moment On the eve of its 100th Anniversary, Maybelline New York is supporting the fashion world like never before. From The Daily’s Fashion Media Awards, to the shows at MADE, to its long-standing partnership with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, MNY is everywhere. Here, president David Greenberg discusses the strategy that so successfully connects beauty and fashion. How has Maybelline’s involvement in NYFW contributed to the success of the brand? Maybelline New York has always taken inspiration from fashion and translated trends from the runway to our cosmetics collections. Even more so, the creativity of the fashion world is a powerful elixir to encourage us to be brave and invent new things. Exciting customers is the same in fashion and beauty. It just feels great. What inspired the decision to collaborate with MADE in addition to david greenberg at the fashion the sponsorship of Mercedes-Benz media awards, september 5 Fashion Week? Our commitment to artistic creativity grows stronger with each season. We see the landscape of fashion changing and we need to move with it, finding new and interesting ways to support our trend platform and the artistic communities that contribute to it. Partnering with MADE Fashion Week allows us to tap into a new generation of talent. With MADE, we’re working with brands like Public School, Zana Bayne, Chris Gelinas, and Jonathan Simkhai… just to name a few. It’s an exciting time. What does Maybelline stand for in today’s beauty landscape? Maybelline New York is a New York–inspired makeup brand with a fashion edge that empowers women to make their mark. By combining technologically advanced formulations and on-trend shades, we offer innovative, accessible, and effortless cosmetics for every woman to define her own beauty. Think of the incredible energy you feel during Fashion Week, in the heart of the city Maybelline calls home. Our goal is to insert that energy and excitement into everything we do and encourage women to do the same. What has been the most rewarding part of Maybelline’s involvement in NYFW for you, personally? Definitely our involvement and collaboration with the fashion designers in the creation of the runway looks. This has inspired us to develop products that really excite our consumers. The most recent example is The Nudes palette, which was created based on the top eye shadow shades our makeup artists use backstage. We were able to create a palette of 12 nude shades, curated by top Maybelline New York artists, and it’s now available to women everywhere. It’s great to see things come full circle in that way. In what new ways are you working with designers this season? Through our new partnership with MADE, we’ve greatly increased our support of emerging designers. We’re also working with MADE to introduce the MADE for Maybelline Film Project, which enlists the vision of eight vanguard filmmakers who will use mixed-media techniques to create an experimental
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
30-second video inspired by Maybelline’s backstage makeup trends. What makes a designer a good partner with Maybelline? We work with a range of well-established as well as up-and-coming designers. We hope to build long-term, meaningful partnerships. We’ve worked with brands like DKNY, Suno, Marissa Webb, and Wes Gordon for several seasons now. We’re excited to announce new partnerships this season, including Opening Ceremony and Peter Som. Maybelline is supporting more than 25 designers this season and in some way, each brand we work with shares the spirit of Maybelline New York. Think confidence, edge, beauty, creativity, style, individuality. What makes a model or celebrity an effective face of the brand? Our diverse group of spokesmodels come from all over the world—representing the positive spirit, cosmopolitan energy, and stylish edge of the Maybelline brand. They are all gorgeous, yet relatable. “Born With It,” as some might say. L’Oréal is moving its American headquarters to Hudson Yards. How will this affect your commute? It will be a bit longer, but I am excited to be in the center of a new development in Manhattan, pioneers, but with state-of-the-art buildings and amazing architecture—and to sit right above the High Line. And what excites you about the new neighborhood? Hudson Yards will be a central hub for restaurants, shops, cafés, galleries, parks, and open spaces, such as the High Line and Hudson River Park. There’s no shortage of things to be excited about. Because we’re celebrating all things happy this season, what is the easiest way to make you happy? A night out in New York City is the antidote to a tough day, and thanks to Fashion Week, there are a few of those happening right now! Makeup by What are your secrets to long-term happiness? Maybelline NY I am lucky to be doing something I love, and to Opening Ceremony have wonderful friends and family. As for the Pe t e r S o m long term, I will let you know when I get there. Cushnie et Ochs How did you spend your summer? Theory Some time in the Hamptons and no major trips. B i b h u Mo h a p a t r a Last year, we spent a week in Ibiza. I think I am Ma r i s s a We b b still recovering. Dannijo What are your favorite extracurricular DKNY activities these days? I’m a serial shopper, for almost anything. J. Me n d e l I love to look, even if I don’t buy. Los Angeles Zana Bayne is rivaling New York these days as the coolest Chris Gelinas place to shop for fashion and beauty. We s G o r d o n After many years of sponsoring so much Suno talent at Fashion Week, how have your Lacoste impressions of the fashion industry O s t w a l d He l g a s o n changed? Ma r a Ho f f m a n First and foremost, I have seen firsthand that Baja East fashion is a truly creative industry where the Jo n a t h a n S i m k h a i vision of one talented designer can have a Public School huge impact on culture, and that designers Giulietta take risks, which makes their jobs remarkably Custo Barcelona exhilarating. Beauty is not that different. At Na n e t t e L e p o r e least two seasons a year you put yourself out O livier Saillard there for others to judge. We only hope we Ma i s o n Ki t s u n é made the right choices. Ma r i a k e F i s h e r m a n
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CHIC Artist
maybe it’s yadim?
The beauty world’s haustest one-name wonder has worked with Gisele, Rihanna, and Lady Gaga, shot with Mert and Marcus, and earned his stripes assisting Pat McGrath. In April, Maybelline New York came calling and named Yadim its global makeup artist. We caught up with him to get the backstage scoop. BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES PERKINS What is it about your style that you think appealed to Maybelline? A “go for it” and “own it” approach! I don’t limit myself and I like to take looks all the way, to really have them make a statement. I believe every woman should experiment and have fun with it. Maybelline adopts the same ideals. What does it mean to be a global makeup artist of a massive makeup brand? In a nutshell, from leading fashion shows to worldwide advertising campaigns to developing products and shades, I provide creative vision and direction for the brand. Do you work on product development? It’s one of my favorite parts of the job! All those times you think to yourself, “I wish there was this one thing,” now I get to make those ideas come to fruition. It’s very exciting! What’s the most challenging part of your job? Finding time to rest! From shoots to product development to fashion shows and all of the travel in between, you really have to make an effort to prioritize your time. Do you remember your first encounter with a Maybelline product? I grew up with my mom and my sister using Maybelline. The first Maybelline product in my kit was a Great Lash mascara. To this day, I must have one in hand at all times. Needless to say, my Maybelline product arsenal has grown quite a bit since joining the brand. Maybelline’s mascara is iconic. What’s next in line? Color! We’re working on new eye shadow, lip, and nail shades. How did you get your start doing makeup? As a teenager, I found a passion for color and artistry playing with face paints and glitters from art-supply stores and applying them on friends before they would head out onto the club scene. What’s the wildest editorial look you’ve ever created? I’ve worked on so many wild and exciting editorials, from covering a performance artist’s face with black glitter for i-D magazine, to smearing Lady Gaga’s face with tons of colorful paint, to giving Rihanna her “ghetto goth” look, as she called it, for 032c magazine. Any fun photo shoot stories you can share? One of my favorites was with photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. We shot an entire issue of Vogue Paris, including the cover, in Ibiza over the course of four FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
days. It was the grunge issue of the magazine, so there was an ease to the images that I loved. At one point, the photographers loved the way a picture looked when the production driver made the air dusty with dirt from the wheels of the car. In order to get the shot just right, the photographers had the car drive back and forth on the dirt road so that the air would get full of dust. In the end, the image, with top model Saskia de Brauw, looked hauntingly beautiful. Which celebs/models are inspiring to you? The Maybelline spokeswomen themselves: Christy Turlington Burns, Adriana Lima, Jourdan Dunn, Marloes Horst, Emily DiDonato, and Kemp Muhl are all inspiration. Some other icons that left a mark on me are Diana Ross, Madonna, Anjelica Huston, and Cher. What’s the weirdest, but most effective trick you’ve picked up on the job? Applying Baby Lips on the eyelids for a glossy finish. What’s the most overrated beauty “secret”? That you have to buy luxe! A good makeup product is a good makeup product regardless of the sticker Maybelline’s price. It really is all about the application and how Color Sensational you rock your look. Some of my favorite products Vivid Lipstick in in my kit are also some of the least expensive. Electric Orange; What current makeup trends would you like to Eyestudio Color see die? Tattoo Cream-Gel No makeup! There is always an opportunity to whip Shadow in Gold on some mascara, groom your eyebrows, or put on Rush. a little highlighter. If you had to give just one beauty tip, what would it be? Perfect your skin. Start with a moisturizing SPF, like Maybelline’s BB Cream. Use a touch of concealer where needed to even out skin tone and create a flawless complexion. To take it a step further, try a subtle highlighter. I love Maybelline’s Face Studio Master Hi-Light. Use it on cheekbones and high planes of the face for a gorgeous glow. What do you do when you need a break from all things makeup-related? I got a puppy earlier this year, so on a daily basis I’ll take her to the park. When I really need a complete break, I head home to California or to Brazil, my favorite vacation spot. all photos courtesy
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Power Couple Claudia Saez-Fromm and Mark David Fromm are in step with Manhattan’s downtown luxury market. Focusing their business from TriBeCa to West Chelsea for two decades has carved them a niche with some of the hottest, most sought-after properties, and the most discerning, influential clients. For the Fromm’s Team, embracing “The New York Life” is a passion and has inspired Claudia’s wildly popularlifestyle blog of the same name. From the hottest NYC restaurants to the latest fitness trends, the Fromms encompass everything fabulous about New York living, and provide the inside scoop for all of their clients. With over two decades of experience in the luxury real estate market, they have developed key connections in the city, and are always in the know, often closing deals before they even hit the market. Together, they established Mark David and Company, (MDNY), one of NYC’s leading real estate brands and oversaw 9,611 transactions, a majority of which were from TriBeCa to West Chelsea. Mark also boasts expertise in both investment and residential sales, which led to the sale of Fatty Crab and The Charles Nolan store in Meatpacking. For more information about getting your own piece of The New York Life, contact Mark and Claudia today. CLAUDIA SAEZ-FROMM Licensed Real Estate Salesperson Licensed as Claudia M. Saez TOWN Flatirion llc 110 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10011 C: (212) 203-1798 E: claudia@townrealestate.com MARK DAVID FROMM Licensed Associate Real Estate Broker TOWN Flatirion llc 110 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10011 C: (917) 331-4400 E: markdavid@townrealestate.com
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CHIC Author Fashion favorite Alan Cumming stars in The Good Wife by day and Broadway’s Cabaret by night. As if his schedule wasn’t already bursting at the seams, he’s also just penned his first memoir, Not My Father’s Son, out next month. It’s a deeply personal book about his turbulent childhood in Scotland. He tells us why he decided to share his story. BY EDDIE ROCHE Talk us through the book, Alan. It’s about a summer four years ago when I was about to do the BBC TV show Who Do You Think You Are? I had been hoping to solve a mystery about my maternal grandfather. The night before I started filming, my father, who I had not seen for 16 years, came out of the woodwork and told me that I was not his son. The book goes back to my childhood and my relationship with my abusive father. Ultimately, it’s about transcending all of that. It’s actually a very hopeful book. How so? It shows that people in abusive situations can overcome them and find happiness. My mother, brother, and I were able to overcome all the things that my father had done to us and sort ourselves out and be happy people away from him. That took a long time. That summer was almost my father’s last hurrah of coming into my life and causing chaos again. The ending of the book is you see us together in a situation that my father couldn’t affect or spoil. People think of you as a lighthearted person. It would be reasonable to think the perception of me is a kind of carefree and loving person, and I am, but [this discovery] was a huge thing to happen to me and I’m about to turn 50, so I wanted to tell this story. You almost have a duty to tell people the whole story. I’m not just fun—this also happened to me. It explains why I’m fun now, because I wasn’t fun when I was little. I’ve found my own fun in life and maybe that’s why people have this notion that I’m childlike. There’s also humor in the book. You have to have a sense of humor about yourself and your life. There’s a lot of laughs, but you’ll also probably cry reading it. It’s pretty intense. I was weeping and laughing at the same time. You’re going to be doing a press tour. Will it be weird talking about such a sad topic over and over again? It will be. Every time you go in to do interviews for a project that you have a personal involvement in it’s more daunting than just talking about some dopey film. It’s about some very painful episodes in my life. I’m nervous about it. Ultimately, at the very end, I’m so happy to be able to tell my story because it means my story will never be accepted. The very fact that I’m doing this frees me from it because the worst thing about abuse is that both the abuser and the abusee accept that as the norm. I’m excited about taking this out to the world because it means it will never be acceptable.
Did you ask for your mother and brother’s blessing? Absolutely. I consulted them all the way through it. I asked them to help check facts and, before I submitted it, I let them both read it. They were involved all the way through. Does the imminent pub date of the book make the story feel finished? I feel like when it comes out there will be this explosion of intensity about it. People will say, “Alan Cumming had this crazy thing happen to him.” I’m obviously going to be talking about it a lot. I don’t feel it’s over yet, though. I’m girding my loins for another onslaught of it, but I do feel the positive aspects are already overweighing any anxiety about it. It won’t feel over until…who knows? That’s the thing about the story… It goes on and on and on. It never stops. Maybe when it’s out in paperback? Would you consider directing the book as a movie? No. It doesn’t interest me at all to revisit it in a fictional way. What’s your next book going to be? A couple of years ago I had an exhibition of photographs and I wrote a little story for every photo. Every picture not only tells a story, but also hides a story. There’s a picture I love of Liza Minnelli called “Sweet Liza” that was taken at her birthday party with cupcakes—the cake topper was Liza and her arm broken off. I love that picture. The story is about my relationship with her and how much I love her and what a trouper she is. There will also be several stories about my beloved dog, Honey. The working title is, You’ve Got to Get Bigger Dreams. On a lighter note…why do you like going to fashion shows? When you’re famous you can’t just be a voyeur and look at people because everybody’s looking at you. At a fashion show, you can do that. You can geek out on being a voyeur. You don’t even have to look at their heads. You can just look at their bodies without any shame. Thoughts on the front-row madness? It’s a bit hilarious when you’re sitting beside someone famous and it feels like a celebrity petting zoo. I wish people would stop asking such banal questions like, “Do you like fashion? What do you think of the trends for the season?” I say, “I think shoes are going to be popular! Trousers are very big and shirts are going to do very well.” Really? The standards of questions at fashion shows are B-minus. What would be a good question then? I like when people ask after a show, “What did you think of the show?” I like when they ask about my sense of fashion. We’re all there to look at clothes. It’s not that interesting. There’s not that much to say. Did you like the clothes? Yes. Are you going to wear some of those clothes? Yes. Do you like Fashion Week? Yes. I love it. Everyone in the fashion world should take a chill pill and realize it’s not the most fascinating or important thing in the world. If they did chill, I think it would be a lot more fun for everybody.
Cumming
Write Up
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#BIZ WITH
STYLE “Berkeley College is a perfect fit. I am so happy here. My professors have really sparked my creativity and provided me with a deep understanding of current fashion and business trends. As a blogger focusing on the Fashion Industry, I also learned how social media can be used as a powerful marketing and communication tool. I know I am prepared for my career because of what I am learning here at Berkeley.� Raquel Rivera Berkeley College Fashion Blogger
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CHIC Steal
The REAL Deal
Net-A-Porter’s offshoot, The Outnet, has quickly grown into a luxury destination for savvy shoppers in its own right. And while Natalie Massenet’s visionary entrepreneurial spirit can be credited for its timely launch, longtime president Stephanie Phair was the one who turned the original vision into gold. We caught up with Phair to see just how business is booming with successful private label Iris & Ink and more than 250 brands under The Outnet umbrella. BY PAIGE REDDINGER
Why was 2009 the right time to launch The Outnet? Natalie Massenet and the team at Net-A-Porter had been thinking about launching an outlet for Net-A-Porter for about a year or so prior. It hit with the worst of the recession, which meant that probably the conversation around discounts and smart shopping was more at the forefront. At what point does the product move over from Net-A-Porter to The Outnet? There is definitely not an immediate move over. It’s sometimes even a couple of seasons later. Although The Outnet started as the outlet for Net-A-Porter, and it certainly still is, now only 20 percent of the stock comes from Net-A-Porter. Do you feel a lot of competition in online designer sales? There will always be competition. In the beginning it really took a lot of conversations, but it’s paid off and now we have more than 250 brands that work directly with us. How did you get your start in the business? I was actually interviewing for jobs in finance, but then I got a break because FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
this wonderfully charismatic, young owner of Siren PR said she would sponsor my visa. So I did that, and then I moved onto the brand side to Issey Miyake and to Vogue. They needed someone to do their marketing and PR on the editorial side. I was there at the time we launched the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund. So it was really an amazing time to get a 360-degree view of fashion. Then you started working at The Outnet? I met with Natalie Massenet, and she was really inspiring and driven. I jumped on board, and the job description was to launch and run a new business for Net-A-Porter, an outlet business. I thought it was such an amazing opportunity to be able to do a start-up, but within an established company. I mean how many times does that opportunity come knocking? What brands do you personally buy from The Outnet? No one on staff can shop for a week after we put the items up on the site. We want the customers to get first choice all the time. But despite that, I would say Helmut Lang, which has really nice straightforward blazers and clean lines. I think Alexander Wang is a great one, if you want a bit of edge. Then for cashmere, I like Iris & Ink cashmere sweaters from our own private label. The quality is really good. And I love the black skinny jeans. They are magic jeans. Post-baby, they’re the only skintight things I dare to wear! Good to know! Why did The Outnet decide to start a private label? Our styling team always said how it would be so great to have these amazing basics to style the pieces with. And then our customers were asking us, “What do I wear with this amazing Oscar de la Renta skirt or this incredible Dolce & Gabbana embellished top?” Why the name Iris & Ink? To be fair, finding a name where you own the IP rights is not an easy job! Iris was more feminine and girly and perhaps more romantic, and Ink was slightly edgier and tougher. It meant we could play to both sides. Were you an online shopper before you started working at The Outnet? Oh, yeah, because I was already working in e-commerce. I book all business travel online, holidays, I buy all my groceries online, and I’ve bought furniture online. I’m an inveterate online shopper. Where do your customers come from? Our customers find us through our social media feeds or through our collaborations. We have just come off a very, very successful partnership with Victoria Beckham to benefit mothers2mothers to raise money for charity, and some of those people wouldn’t have known about The Outnet before. Will you do more collabs with celebs like that in the future? We might; you know Victoria came to us for it. She’s been a customer of ours in the past. I think when her idea to sell her clothes came about she wanted to really find a Iris & Ink, $150 M Missoni, $535 partner that had a global reach, that understood e-commerce, that could really market this project and really get as much awareness to it as possible. And that is exactly what we did. How do you keep things from seasons past feeling new? We look at how you can wear a piece for the office or whether it works with trends in leopard for autumn. It’s amazing to remerchandise things. It just gives Oscar de la Renta, Alexander Wang, a new lease on life to a beautiful, $1,215 $580 high-quality product. A l l photo s c o u rt e s y
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CHIC Lens
A VICTOR EMERGES
It’s a fearsome proposition to break into the family business when your father is an A-list talent, but Victor Demarchelier, 29, has become one of the most in-demand photogs in fashion. (The stunning September cover of Town & Country, featuring Naomi Watts, should explain why.) Meet the man behind the magic! BY EDDIE ROCHE
How did the Town & Country shoot come together? The stylist was Nicoletta Santoro and Alex Gonzalez was the art director, and they came to me and explained the new vision for the magazine. They wanted Town & Country to feel more modern, but still chic—almost with a Parisian twist and a little more sophisticated. Not just the classic Town & Country we’re used to seeing. We didn’t want it to be ordinary. Should we expect to see your work in ELLE now that Alex is there? I don’t like to close any doors, but I am busy with the relationships I have. You grew up on the Upper West Side, but it sounds like you have an accent… It’s very odd, and always the topic of conversation. My mom is Swedish and my dad is French, so my accent is a mix of both. I went to Lycée Français, so I had a lot of European friends. Very few American friends, to be honest. Did you ever live in Paris? No, but I spend about three months a year there now. Why did you study economics? It was by default because I didn’t really know what I wanted to do. I was always good at math. I was doing studio art on the side but didn’t think it was much of a career. It was more of a pleasure. What did you do after graduation? I started working at my dad’s studio, doing a little bit of everything from managing to organizing. Then I started making some prints and messing around in the darkroom. After that, I started assisting and then started taking my own pictures. It was a snowball effect. Did you spend a lot of time on-set as a kid? Not all the time. I was hanging around, but I wasn’t really watching him work. What does your mom do? She used to be a model and now she helps manage my dad’s career. Was photography an obvious path? I wasn’t pushed into it—we were always encouraged to do whatever we wanted. By default, you don’t want to do what your father does. I’d never thought about it until midway through college. How do your styles differ? That’s for someone else to decide. We’re similar in many regards; we just have slightly different ways of going about the shoots. What was your “big break”? My dad and I shot a few pages for Vogue together. It was a story about shoulders, and Grace Coddington was styling. You’ve now worked with many editions of Vogue—U.S., Australia, Germany, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Spain, Paris, and China. It’s interesting to see how each works differently, but after a while, you FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
focus on a few select titles. How did you learn the trade? Hanging around the studio for three or four years. Studying art in college also helped me a little bit, too. I was also able to ask a lot of questions and get a lot of advice from my dad’s friends. What shoot are you most proud of? I love the beauty shoot I did for Bazaar. I’ve just started collaborating with Numéro and that gives me something different from the Vogues. Which other photographers do you admire? I keep an eye on everyone. It’s nice to see that somebody you might not particularly like can produce a nice story. Some people are just more consistent than others. You never know when you’re going to see a great story. Do you see shows during New York Fashion Week? I’m not really into shows. I feel like they take too long to actually happen. Where do you see your career going? I just hope to improve! I started off shooting a lot in studio and now we’re shooting outside. It’s nice to mix it up. Who’s been your biggest cheerleader in the business? Definitely my father. He’s always motivating and pushing me. Did you have any favorite photos of his? I probably know his work better than anyone, because one of my jobs was to sell and manage his archives. I also handled most of his fine art, so I was looking at pictures all day. There are so many I love! Are there any drawbacks to having a famous last name? Yes, but there are also advantages. There are always comparisons that other photographers wouldn’t have. How often do Americans butcher it? All the time! I think it’s just impossible to pronounce it in English. Most people prefer to mumble. a l l ph o t o s c o u r t e sy
Silver
Sparkle Shine on in the sea of black this Fall by splashing some shimmer in with your citrus pieces for the color duo du moment, darlings!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Dries Van Noten Fall 2014
$1,000 Laer, AmRag.com
$2,424
Hervé Léger, MyTheresa.com
$445
Tod’s, 650 Madison Ave., (212) 644-5945
$600 Herno, Lyst.com
$525
Bjørg, Avenue32.com
$1,395
Saint Laurent, 3 E. 57th St., (212) 980-2970
$3,000
Bottega Veneta, 669 Fifth Ave., (212) 371-5511
$950
Brunello Cucinelli, 683 Madison Ave., (212) 813-0900
$349
MSGM MatchesFashion.com
$750
Miu Miu, 100 Prince St., (212) 334-5156
$734
Roger Vivier, 750 Madison Ave., (212) 861-5371
$545
By Malene Birger Net-A-Porter.com
all photos courtesy R u n way: F i r s t V i e w ; A l l ot h e r s c o u r t e s y
CHIC Investigation
ANNA’S HANDBAGS,
DECONSTRUCTED Over the years, your darlingest Daily has documented every aspect of Anna’s iconic look—the Chanel glasses! The Oscar and Prada dresses! The Manolo Blahnik sandals she’s worn since the ’80s!—but we’ve never addressed the handbag issue, mostly because she almost never carries one in public. (One of the many benefits of having a car and driver, chérie.) But after a careful dig through our endless archives, a few patterns have finally emerged.
2009
2008
2014
2014
2012
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2007
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2011
EXHIBIT A: THE CREAM CROC CLUTCH!
2005
1990
2012 2009
2012 1990
Nostalgia moment! Anna, Carolyne and Donna circa 1990 2007
1995
EXHIBIT B: THE GLITTERY EVENING BAG! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
2006 2000
2014
OFF-SCRIPT!
She occasionally takes a chance or two. (Okay, three!)
2013
SHE ROCKS A SATCHEL!
2007
Talk about functional fashion—she could fit the entire September issue in that thing.
2013
SHE TRIES A TOTE!
2008
EXHIBIT C: THE RED CROC NOTEBOOK! 1988
2011
There’s something splendid about the slouchy look, n’est-ce pas? Bring it back! 2014
1990
SHE WORKS THAT VUITTON!
1990
2009
Petit logo moment? Mais oui. Way to support your advertisers, too.
2002
2002
EXHIBIT D: THE QUILTED CHANELS!
2010
AND! SHE’S INTO THE PLEXI TREND!
Never mind. That’s her NYC & Company award. g e t t y ( 2 6 ) ; b f an y c . c o m ( 4 ) ; p a t r i c k m c m u l l an . c o m ( 4 )
FASHION BEAUTY FOOD WINE SPIRITS HOME DESIGN & FURNISHINGS TRAVEL & REAL ESTATE
Susan Magrino Agency Public Relations, Marketing, Brand Strategy & Events 352 Park Avenue South, 13 FL New York, NY 10010 212.957.3005 www.smapr.com
hhhéhkingpin Ben TheraSphherh-cum -ros
d The Photog ” Watts debute er st Si y M s e’ rst photo “Yes, Sh 11 in his very fi 20 te la in h since. Shhhhh flogging it ever en be s e’ H . on BFA
CHIC Snaps The Continuous Lean
After hundreds of nights of trial and error, super-social casting agent Natalie Joos found her best angle: 22 degrees. Eat your heart out, Sheryl Sandberg!
What’s
YOUR
billy
? E C FA f o k c o t s g n Taki n o i h s a f e t i r our favo rell’s r a F ! y ll s i r B e s po lly Face Bi
biggest poser Ironically, the be the man of us all might rrell’s Billy himself. Billy Fa crouching Face involves Dance Hall– low, Jamaican ching one’s style stance, ar stretching both eyebrow, and e the camera lik hands toward a spell. you’re casting
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CHIC Snaps The Stolen Smoochie
Party-mad freelance photographer Hanuk Hanuk is a man of many poses (and hairstyles), but the Peace Sign Smoochie might be his signature. Resistance is futile.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
The Putz
Terry “Thumbs Up” Richa rdson’s wingman, Harry Bee, runs viral marketing agency The 88. Inspired by T-Bone, he’s been pushing this tsuris-in fused shrug like it’s going out of style.
The Burnout
People’s Revolution publicist Kelly Cutrone marries head-to-toe black with the fiercest frown downtown. She’s been at this game for decades, kids. Do not mess.
b fa n yc . c o m
y Pa rt
Extra!
BFF MOMENT! With Tom Ford and Carine Roitfeld
Thanks for coming, Tom! What is it about you two? Tom: Oh, come on! My God, first of all, we’ve known each other for 20 years. Did you know that, Carine? Carine: Ah, no! Really? What’s your favorite Tom Fordmemory? Carine: When Tom asked me to walk with high heels on his back because he had a back problem. At what moment did you know you’d made it in fashion? Tom: Have we made it?! [Laughs] I never feel like I’ve made it. You have to keep working. That’s the way fashion is! You cannot stop. Carine: We are both never happy. Tom: Never!
LE FOIS! MERCI MIL e label
privat To The Outnet’s , By Kilian, ng hi ot cl Iris & Ink spoiling our and La Perla for gift bags! VIPs with divine
With Katie Grand Who did you invite to come along tonight? I’m in such esteemed company with the other people who are being honored and who are presenting tonight, that I’m so glad to have a lot of friendly faces around me. And Marc’s coming! I dragged him away from his work, and he told me this is the only thing he’s going to this Fashion Week, so I was a bit surprised he even came! What do you love about The Daily? That it’s there when you come into work, and it’s really jolly. It’s a nice contrast to Women’s Wear Daily, because it’s bright and immediate. When you’re stuck in a studio, you can really feel like something’s going on outside the studio when you read it. Plus, it’s always on Marc’s desk!
Fix
Tom Ford, Rachel Feinstein and Graydon Carter
Vinoodh Matadin and Inez van Lamsweerde with son Charles Star and Joe Zee
REQUIRED READING!
Lindsey Wixson Claire Danes
Bubbles from sponsor Nicolas Feuillatte
MORE FMAs HEAVEN!
Gigi Hadid
Paul Turcotte
MEMORY LANE!
Beats care of sponsor Gibson
With Stephen Gan
What’s it like to be back at the FMAs as an alum? It feels like one big happy family! It’s like a reunion. I’m happy to see everyone after the summer break. Got any advice for this year’s winners? “Just enjoy it.” I wish I would’ve said that to myself last year. Why do you adore The Daily? It’s truly insider—and truly about the right insiders. Can I say that? Makeup from sponsor Maybelline New York
Christy Turlington Burns and Naomi Campbell Robbie Myers and Kevin O’Malley
“I love Carol and Humberto very much.” —Dakota Fanning
Hydration from sponsor Evian
Brandusa Niro and Stefano Tonchi
Vladimir and Julia Restoin-Roitfeld
Lisa Carvalho, Jay Manuel, and Coco Rocha
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Jonathan Newhouse, Ingrid Sischy, and Sandra Brant
“I never received many awards, so this is a great honor for that reason. I always got very good scores in school, though!” —Stefano Tonchi p a tr i c k m c m u ll a n . c o m ( 1 6 ) ; GE T T Y IMAGES ( 2 )
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