the
Wednesday, September 10, 2014
w o r t n fro
thom browne’s
Savage garden
plus! la perla, LaPointe, and Cara D’s bacon fetish
Trim: 21.5inW x 13.5inH
michaelkors.com
In the garden of Good and Evil Collection
804 Washington Street, New York City Bergdorf Goodman - Saks Fifth Avenue www.bykilian.com
FASHION FROM CATW
TWALK TO SIDEWALK
“There were 160,000 flowers! We’re donating them to a service that will distribute them to hospitals.” —Tommy Hilfiger
MOVING DAY! With Fran Lebowitz What did you do for fun this summer? Nothing. I moved. Why? They were building a building next to my building. I didn’t want to live in a construction zone. I’m very picky. How was packing? I have 10,000 books. Best book you’ve ever read? Only children have a favorite book!
Carolina Herrera
your daily dose SCENE
Graydon Carter presides over the front row
CAROLINA HERRERA
☛ Splendor alert. First up: Carolina Herrera, whose digitized florals charmed the fashion set. What a week it’s been! ☛ Meanwhile, Tommy Hilfiger showed a Sgt. Pepper–riffic take on the swinging ’60s (with more than a touch of Brit). Theodora Richards in the front row, Georgia May Jagger on the runway—a triumph! ☛ Finally, another American icon, Ralph Lauren, launched Polo for Women with an over-the-top spectacle in Central Park. Golf cart shuttles! Light displays! Holograms! Lobster rolls! Polo shirts galore (both live and vaporized)! A night to remember.
TOMMY HILFIGER MEMORY LANE!
With Georgia May Jagger
“Rock, hip-hop, and even Andrea Bocelli. My life is so hectic that I like to come home and chill out.” —Dee Hilfiger on
her taste in music
Ralph Lauren, Ricky Lauren, Diane von Furstenberg, Barry Diller, and Ben Stiller
What kind of music do you like? I like all ’60s music—Jimi Hendrix, old R&B, and all the pop music from my childhood. We don’t see you walk in many shows in New York. I’m a bit short. I come and do the occasional thing for brands that I really like. How do you keep your body looking so good? I don’t do anything. I do like to dance. How do you know Tommy? I’ve known him since I was a kid. He’s my neighbor in the Caribbean, and I’m really good friends with his daughters. I used to be so into Tommy Girl. They used to send me the clothes when I was like 8. They were my first grown-up clothes, so it’s very weird to now be doing this. This collection is so beautiful!
Erin Heatherton
POLO FOR WOMEN PARTY
Lauren Bush Lauren
Paul Arrouet and Dylan Lauren Bruce Weber
David Lauren
Model moment! Hilary Rhoda bfanyc.com FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
z Bu z Fix
Ewan McGregor and Nicole Kidman
Lisa Rinna, Dennis Basso, and Hoda Kotb
tod’s part y
STAGE DREAMS!
DISCUSS!
With Karolina Kurkova
You walked in Alessandra Facchinetti’s first Tod’s show. Did you know her before? I actually met her when she worked at Prada. My very first fashion show was Prada and that was 15 years ago. What did you want to do or be before you started modeling? I wanted to be onstage. I was really into theater. I studied music, theater, and dance. I was also into philosophy and I wanted to be an archaeologist!
dennis basso
Uma Thurman
BUSINESS LESSONS! With Diego Della Valle
What’s the secret to success in business? I know when I smell a nice piece of leather, I love to see a new fantastic purse, I love when my people show me new shoes…you need to love what you do. What did you want to be as a kid? I tried to do a business when I was 16 years old, but nobody listened to me!
☛ Another wickedly chic collection from Donna Karan, which drew Camila Alves and Masters of Sex star Caitlin FitzGerald to Cedar Lake. ☛ Diego Della Valle toasted the newly renovated Tod’s flagship with an A-list coterie of fans—Nicole Kidman moment, anyone? ☛ And Dennis Basso began his show at Lincoln Center with a moment of silence for his longtime friend, Joan Rivers. ☛ Tomorrow, Bon Appétit’s eds are taking care of lunch by hosting Chloë Sevigny’s Opening Ceremony presentation at the High Line Hotel. Expect a sitdown meal from Roberta’s chef Carlo Mirarchi and dessert by Del Posto’s Brooks Headley. Hungry yet?
UNDER-CHIC! With Dennis Basso
So nice of you to dedicate the show to Joan. She was at my very first show and probably in the past 31 years, she was at 80 percent of them. What a show! It was packed to the rafters! Let’s talk collection. It was inspired by the ’60s and the Mediterranean capitals of resorts. Do you wear short shorts? I wish I could! I wear some underneath my pants. I’m a tightywhitey guy.
ROMANCE!
With Ivana Trump How do you know Dennis? I’ve known him for over 30 years, and he opened a boutique the size of my bathroom. What’s a typical day like for you? I’ve been in Europe, because I have a home in Saint-Tropez. A typical day is going to the beach, lunch with friends, take a break, then I go for dinner and parties. My Yorkie, Tiger, comes with me everywhere, and my two housekeepers take care of me. One of the boyfriends is always around, too!
HAT ATTACK!
With Karlie Kloss at Donna Karan How tall did that hat make you? Hmmm, seven and a half feet? No handstands for me. You’ve developed a paparazzi following! It’s a bizarre thing to have people taking your photograph when you really don’t want your photograph taken. I can’t say I enjoy it. You killed it in the Opening Ceremony show. What kind of an actress are you? Not a very good one. A very tall one!
AND…CUT! With Carol Alt
What are you filming? A comedy called Stealing Chanel. I play the wife of a Russian mogul who is getting divorced. There’s a scene with a show in it, so I called up Dennis and he was gracious enough to let us shoot backstage. Who’s producing it? I haven’t even gotten to that! I haven’t signed my contract yet, but we had to take this opportunity to film at Fashion Week.
Electric Eyes For Peter Som’s runway, Maybelline New York Global Makeup Artist Yadim took inspiration from ’60s Pop Art. To create the eyes, he used Color Tattoo Leathers 24HR Cream-Gel Shadow in Creamy Beige as a base, then added Color Sensational Vivids Lipcolor in Vibrant Mandarin to the inner corners. Brows were groomed with Brow Drama (available in October) for a flawless finish. Plus! Special thanks to Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched for the glowy pout.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview; bfanyc.com (6); getty images; patrickmcmullan.com (4); maybelline: courtesy
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ART ATTACK!
With Michelle Smith
z B uz
Love the collection! It all started with conceptual art. Have you been to the rooftop garden at the Met? I have! Did you spend a lot of time there this summer? I did! I laid on the grass, drinking a Corona, and I was like, “This is so cool!” I live right in the neighborhood, and it’s my little secret spot.
Fix
front row
Padma Lakshmi and Danielle Brooks
Editor in Chief, CEO
Brandusa Niro
Bella Thorne
Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director
insT yle bash
milly
InStyle, you’ve never looked better! At the magazine’s 20th anniversary party at the Paramount Hotel’s Diamond Horseshoe theater, Hollywood types greeted editor Ariel Foxman and Abigail Breslin were treated to a surprise performance by Nico & Vinz. Abigail Breslin confessed to preferring New York over Los Angeles. “I’m sorry, I don’t want to wear shorts in December!” she said. Ariel Foxman and Can’t blame you, sweetie! Jennifer Hudson
With Estelle at Milly Do you ever shoot a designer an e-mail after a show to say, “I want that”? Absolutely, and my stylist is sitting right behind me, taking notes. Will you go to any after-parties? Tonight I think I’m going to InStyle, but I’ll leave before 12. I like clothes, but I love sleep!
SWEET TREATS! With Taryn Manning
Is fashion a topic on the set of Orange Is the New Black? Of course. Especially since we don’t get to dress up a lot on-set. Do you have any guilty pleasures? Just ice cream. I love Häagen-Dazs’ coffee flavor, to be specific.
Christopher Tennant Executive Editor
PARTY TIME!
ZZZZ!
Diane Kruger
VACATION MODE!
With Alessandra Ambrosio
1. Cindi Leive. We’d be like the nice version of Robin Wright and Kevin Spacey in House of Cards. Wait, does that make me Kevin Spacey? 2. Jessica Diehl. We already spend all our time together. I feel like we should just commit already. Boss? 3. Anne Slowey. We would be the most hysterical, out-ofour-minds couple that ever lived. 4. Daniella Vitale. I know for a fact that she loves cooking, rosé, and the Giants. And she also has a house on Fire Island. Done! 5. Bobby Graham. Who doesn’t want to date themselves?
SUGAR RUSH!
With Kiernan Shipka at Zac Posen What’s your fave candy? Oh, I like chocolate bars. Does Twix count? Or maybe it’s Butterfingers. Now I’m going to start naming all the candy bars! What’s in the works after Mad Men? I just shot a project in North Carolina, and I’m here now. Any fave NYC spots? I don’t feel like I have too many hangouts in New York yet. Next time I see you, I’ll get back to you!
MOGUL MOMENT! With Gary Wassner
Your new company, InterLuxe, has acquired Jason Wu. He is one of the smartest designers I’ve ever met. He understands the business side and has a really clear sense of who he is. How did Jason stand out from other talents? We wanted a designer who doesn’t have a sense of entitlement and appreciates the value of a partnership. We’re bringing infrastructure and talent to help build the brand. How big might we see Wu’s brand grow? He might branch into areas he loves, like beauty and fragrance. We anticipate opening a flagship store within the next 18 months. Will Miss Wu continue? We’ve taken that license back in-house. In 2016, we’ll probably relaunch Miss Wu. After that, we anticipate
Eddie Roche Deputy Editor
Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Contributing Editors Ashley Baker, Sarah Horne Grose Writer/Reporter Dena Silver Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Director George Maier Contributing Imaging Assistant Mihai Simion President, Publisher Paul Turcotte Account Director Chloe Worden Events & Corporate Partnerships Director Jessica Fafara Marketing Manager Kelly Carr Publishing Coordinator Piero Bellizzi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor
If you were to write a book about your life, what would it be called? Forever on Vacation. I just like to live like that, even if I’m working to 10 o’clock at night! Where’s your next vacation? Well, I have to go to Spain tomorrow for work, but I’ll have a little bit of free time.
THE WORLD ACCORDING TO Vanity fair’s MICHAEL CARL! 5 industry types I would actually date!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
the
significant brick-and-mortar retail expansion. Have other designers been reaching out? My e-mail in-box has been an absolute joke! How did InterLuxe’s top brass get assembled? We were in a CEO search for a long time, and we found Melissa Beste to be the CEO across InterLuxe’s platforms. What companies do you want InterLuxe to compete with? We modeled ourselves after LVMH and Kering. I don’t want this to sound immodest, but in the U.S., we have private equity firms and lots of money. In Europe, LVMH and Kering are more likely to nurture, build, and support brands over time than American private equities. We don’t have a short-term exit strategy. We want to stick with a brand that we can build to its fullest potential.
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DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2014. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.
On the cover: Thom Browne Spring ’15, photographed by FirstView.
b f a n y c . c o m ( 9 ) ; g e t t y im a g e s ( 4 ) ; f i r s t v i e w ( 2 )
S:13”
©2014 Maybelline LLC.
S:10.25”
runway
Spring 2015
donna
karan Donna Karan’s particular brand of urban and urbane chic at its finest, thanks to Basquiat-inspired prints, unbuttoned dress shirts tucked into pencil skirts, and sky-high hats. Eat your heart out, Pharrell!
carolina
herrera Too many scene-stealers to show, but behold these beauties. Mosaic moments, billowing gowns, and ideal cocktail frocks guarantee Herrera’s fashion star status and timeless appeal.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview
runway
Spring 2015 Thom
browne Brilliance! Creativity reigns supreme chez Browne, and this is one fantasy world that we’d love to inhabit year-round. A dress woven from fishing line, tacked-on florals, and Stephen Jones hats—so cheek, so chic.
the
3.1 phillip
lim
Crisp and clean, with downtown flair and rounded edges. Tops, bolero jackets, and dresses with wavelike piping in canary yellow and peach were the statements of the moment, while transparent trousers will charm the streetstyle set.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview
BLOOMINGDALE’S SOUTHAMPTON 53C Jobs Lane
magaschoni.com Daily Front Row Ad.indd 1
7/29/14 4:46 PM
runway
Spring
2015 tommy
hilfiger Calling all Sgt. Pepper enthusiasts! The ’60s reigned supreme on Tommy’s runway with striped sequined bellbottoms, drummer boy jackets, and big furs worn with mini dresses, knee-high boots, and denim patchwork vests. The Beatles would have approved.
nanette
lepore Like a burst of sunshine, Lepore’s pale yellow, baby blue, and pink-hued pieces were sweet and easy on the eyes. The mods wore their hair in youthful buns gathered on the top of their heads, and the cute shorts and sundresses seem to take inspiration from Lepore’s 16-year-old daughter, Violet, who conveniently closed the show in a cool black and white caftan.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
beauty
trend
{’60s Eyes}
grace lee FOR maybelline new york
firstview
runway
Spring 2015 zac
posen Posen’s perfectly form-fitting and sexy eveningwear came solely in red, white, and black this season. In other words, every woman’s go-to when the invitation reads “black tie.” Nothing wrong with knowing what women want, right, darlings? Posen’s muse, Pat Cleveland, particularly stunned in a cherry red hourglass gown that seemed without end on her statuesque figure.
dennis
basso Elegant furs, embellished gowns, and luxe accoutrements for the grande dame set who have galas galore. Here’s hoping your pockets are especially deep this season!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
posen: firstview; basso: getty images
#BIZ WITH
STYLE “We prepare our students by constantly adapting our program to meet the needs of employers. From omni-channel retailing to social media marketing to global product lifecycle management, they’re ready.”
Joshua Williams Chair, Fashion Department
Call 800-446-5400 ext. BFF, visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/Fashion or email info@BerkeleyCollege.edu
Find us @BerkeleyCollege and #BizWithStyle
Berkeley College reserves the right to add, discontinue, or modify its programs and policies at any time. Modifications subsequent to the original publication of this information may not be reflected here. For the most up-to-date information, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu. For more information about Berkeley College graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed programs, and other important disclosures, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/disclosures. P4597.8.2014
P4597.8.2014
CHIC Book
HOLLYWOOD
GLAM When Vogue alum and photographer Claiborne Swanson Frank met Michael Kors, it was a match made in heaven. The two have collaborated on Frank’s latest project, the portrait book Young Hollywood, which features portraits by Frank and clothes by Kors. So how did the magical images come about? BY EDDIE ROCHE
Ireland Baldwin
How did you come up with this idea, Claiborne? My first book, American Beauty, came out in 2012. I shot over 100 women for that. After that my husband got a job offer in L.A. and I kind of had this moment of “What’s the next body of work about?” The book is about all these girls on the verge. I thought Hollywood was an amazing place to dig in and tell a new story. What did you do when you worked at Vogue? I was Anna Wintour’s assistant. That was amazing; the best thing I ever did was work there. It was so frightening for me and such an education. How did you transition to photography? I always loved photography and went to Vogue in the hopes of being a stylist. Now I style all my work; I style everything. I pick the locations; I shoot. In the case of Young Hollywood, it was about the marriage of old and new, telling a story through these iconic homes, landscapes, old cars, and diners. What were some of the cool locations you used in L.A.? I’m from San Francisco, so I have a great love of the West Coast. I did a ton of research, and had an ongoing list of what I felt was super important to shoot: a motorcycle, an old car, a mid-century home, the desert, the beach, the lifeguard chair, a circus.
MICHAEL KORS ON YOUNG HOLLYWOOD What did you love about this book? I first saw Claiborne’s work in her book American Beauty and it immediately caught my eye—her style is all about laid-back American glamour, which I love. I was also intrigued by this idea of Hollywood that she FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
So the clothes were all vintage and current Michael Kors? It was about 50/50. Michael was wildly generous in supporting my book and opening all his beauty and fashion collections for me to use. You really can’t tell what’s vintage and what isn’t, which really also speaks about his brand as well…how iconic his collections are. How did you meet Michael? I did a very small collaboration with him in the fall of 2012, styling 10 girls from my first book with the fall collection. So I pitched the idea about my second book to him. I think it was very much an act of faith [on his part.] Having such a brand backing my vision was such an honor. What did Michael say about the final product? He was thrilled. He loved it. I think it’s a fun project for Michael to be connected with this next generation of Hollywood. Where there any particular actresses whose stories spoke to you? I think Isabel Lucas was pretty much my cover choice for a reason beyond how beautiful she is. She is focused on creating from such a positive place, being accountable, and having integrity and substance. I love the cover with Isabel Lucas. It’s the idea of hope, of who she is, who she will be. I love that shot in the canyons of Malibu with the unique Californian light.
From left: Olivia Luccardi, Leven Rambin, photographer Claiborne Swanson Frank, Olivia Thirlby, and Cody Horn
wanted to portray—it’s not an approach that we are used to seeing. She manages to transform [the stars] through the clothes and the styling—Ireland Baldwin looks like a model from the ’50s. The book captures the idea of transformation, glamour, and possibility,
which is what we want from Hollywood. [I love] the spirit of it. These women are not like the Hollywood players from the ’20s or even the ’60s—they’re looking to make their mark on the world in ways that no one has before them. They’re doing it all. all photos courtesy
BFA
BILLY FARRELL AGENCY
images matter. bookings@bfanyc.com 212.924.4250 @bfa_nyc
left to right, top to bottom: shanae nae/ bfanyc.com the blonds aw1 4 presented by madefw / jesse lirola / bfanyc.com alexander wang ss14 show / matteo prandoni/ bfanyc.com giovanna battaglia and friends at the paramount hotel’s diamond horse / neil rasmus/ bfanyc.com kate spade ny fall 2014 / joe schildhorn/ bfanyc.com zac posen fall 2013 / jesse lirola/ bfanyc.com rodarte fw14 runway show / madison mcgaw/ bfanyc.com vfiles made fashion after party / joe schildhorn/ bfanyc.com zac posen fall 2013 / matteo prandoni/ bfanyc.com purple fashion magazine dinner
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CHIC Scene
Timo’s Supper Club
On Sunday evening, Timo Weiland threw a delectable dinner party avec close pal Amanda Hearst, Samsung, and The Daily at just-opened steak house BV’s Grill, the new eatery from the meat maestros behind Bobby Van’s. Weiland caught us up on his hosting how-to’s, his favorite memories with Hearst, and what’s next for his eponymous label. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
How did you pair up with Amanda Hearst to co-host tonight’s chic dinner? Amanda is such a dear friend of mine. Friends of Finn is an organization she founded a few years back to support the Humane Society. We wanted to partner with Samsung and The Daily in support of Friends of Finn, and we wanted to be a bit out of the box and interesting. What’s your most beloved memory with Amanda? In Miami recently, we had this beautiful garden dinner at Casa Tua for Luigi Tadini’s birthday, which is one of my very favorite restaurants in the world. It was like heaven: perfect weather, a huge celebration. What might we not know about Amanda? She’s kind of a tomboy at heart! A really chic tomboy. Friends of Finn is an animal-centric charity. Do you have any pets? I just got a kitten, actually. I grew up on a marsh in the Florida wetlands, really close to the ocean, with cats, dogs, and fish around, plus horses that belonged to our neighbors. It was an amazing place to grow up. There were wild boars on our property—kind of scary but pretty cool. Got any tips for throwing a great party? I enjoy hosting! I try not to get too stressed out, and to pay attention to detail. This week is just fever-pitch crazy, but I try to be as present as possible. What’s the best bash chez Timo? We have this annual Christmas party at my apartment, and 250 to 300 people pass through over the course of the night. It’s a 1,200-square-foot apartment, and the tree is just enormous, so it can get kind of crazy! But we make it work. What are your signature tipples/nibbles to serve? I love whiskey sours, mojitos, and margaritas. Foodwise I love anything Mexican or Indian, but I always keep it pretty light and not too spicy.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Are you a carnivore? Oh, definitely! I love red meat, and I’m a big steak house person. But I’m also a fairly healthy eater, so the menu at BV’s Grill was a special occasion sort of thing for me. Okay, onto fashion. What’s the scoop on the new collection? We explored a lot of new techniques—there’s a lot of newness! There are some fresh silhouettes we’re really excited about, too. It’s preppy, street, and classic with a modern twist. It’s quirky cool; an accessible type of luxury. Did you design this collection anywhere unusual? A lot of times I find myself on a bus, plane, or in a car. When I’m in transit, it gives me head space to put everything else aside and really think. Plenty of designing happens in the office, of course—the brand is really an extension of our personalities, and of friends, too. We’re each other’s own muses! It’s a collaboration among the three of us—myself, Alan [Eckstein], and Donna [Kang]. Is it more challenging to whip up a fall or a spring collection? Definitely fall! It’s a lot heavier. Still, we always try to keep it light. It’s important for us to remember the whole “wear now” concept. There’s always a nautical, coastal, surfprep vibe, so it makes more sense for us to keep it light. But there’s still a lot of texture and hand-knit pieces. Spring comes a lot more naturally. Is it hard to come off of summer, straight from Labor Day, to the NYFW grind? Summer’s our busiest time, by far—there’s no lazy summer for us! Actually, there’s not much lazy time at all. Besides designing men’s and women’s collections, we do all sorts of consulting projects. We’re always creating, all year round.
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY
#adoptdontshop www.humanesociety.org/fofdonate
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9/4/14 2:09 AM
CHIC Force
ROUGH
LUXE
Since she debuted in spring 2011, New York–based designer Sally LaPointe has caused ripples with her dramatic point of view, earning fans like Bergdorf ’s Linda Fargo and clients like Lady Gaga, Rita Ora, and Emily Blunt. With her business partner, Sarah Adelson, LaPointe has expanded her operations, presenting a cool, minimalist Spring 2015 collection inspired by “spring cleaning.” By Paige Reddinger
How long did you talk about launching your own label before jumping in? About six months. After Rhode Island School of Design, I was designing the men’s accessories for Kenneth Cole and Sarah was working for the Parigi Group. After work, we would go on really long walks along the West Side Highway for exercise and that is where we started talking. Was it scary when you were starting out? We were just so certain and passionate about what we wanted to do that we didn’t think about it too much. Now that I look back, I’m like, wow, I should have been really scared. What are some of the hardest things for you; is it quality control, production? You need to go through a lot of trial and error. Being a young designer obviously you’re up against a lot and you just need to plow your way through and get your foot in the door places. Up until about six months ago, it was just Sarah and me. A two-person team managing everything was a big challenge. What was it like landing Bergdorf Goodman? Wasn’t Linda Fargo at your second show? Yes, the first show she came to was Spring ’13, and she has been coming ever since. She’s incredibly lovely, too; she gives really good feedback. Sarah and I were actually in Paris after that show when we got the phone call that Bergdorf’s was going to take us. We were sitting in an outdoor café, just the two of us enjoying a beer, and it was just the best moment ever. It was amazing. What did it feel like getting on Style.com for the first time? That was up there with the Bergdorf victory, once you kind of get that review it helps a lot. I don’t go too in depth with reviews, you know not into the blog-y stuff, but I certainly read the feedback and I take it into consideration. Are you still in your first studio space or have you upgraded since then? We actually started it out of our downtown apartment, which was about 700 square feet. It was tiny, and we did that and moved into another space that was a live-work. A year ago, we moved into the space we are in now, which is kind of a first official studio. It’s in Chinatown; it’s a full floor. That’s what really made us grow and hire employees, but for a long time it was out of our apartment. Are you guys still roommates? No! It was time for us to get our own apartments. A lot of your reviews say you have a Gothic edge. Do you agree with that? I would, I mean I think that is something that I kind of naturally do, kind of like an undertone. What designers did you admire when you were at RISD? Growing up, I probably knew nothing about fashion; I grew up painting. At RISD I was given a project to research on John Galliano and I had never even heard his name before, embarrassingly. That was when my brain kind of switched over, I was just blown away. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Any celebs you’d love to dress? Who do I love? I love Jennifer Connelly, and obviously we’ve dressed Lady Gaga and Katy Perry and Kim Kardashian. We just dressed Emily Blunt, which was really amazing; she was on my conquer list. Do you find fast fashion copies flattering or discouraging? It’s funny, a model came in for a casting the other day and she had a top on and I was like, “Oh, my God, that top is so cute,” and she was like, “Thanks, it’s Zara.” I was thinking, “Zara is going to put us all out of business, what the hell!” It’s kind of annoying that you can get fashionable items at a very low price, but that also oversaturates the market and makes my cashmere and fox sweater even more special or desirable. So I think it could kind of go both ways. What’s your design environment like? I have to be alone while I’m sketching, and the studio is very nice and they are very good at giving me a week or so to be by myself. I sometimes sing. I mean I love Beyoncé; I am a big Beyoncé fan. When and where is your next vacation? I booked my first vacation that I have taken in I think four years to the Bahamas and I leave a week after Fashion Week.
p o rt r a i t: c o u rt e sy; f i r st v i e w
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Lingerie
LEGEND
Sixty years ago, a couturière from Bologna named Ada Masotti opened up a small atelier, and soon the city’s most elite women were sporting some of the most inventive and luxurious pieces of lingerie ever to be created. Today, La Perla is a power player on the global stage, with an inspired new owner who aims to bring its signature sense of luxury to an even larger audience. Suzy Biszantz, CEO of La Perla North America, explains the brand’s transformation. BY ASHLEY BAKER How has La Perla evolved since you came onboard? I joined the company over six years ago, and we were owned partially by JH Partners, which had made an investment in the brand. Then in 2008, they bought the entire company from the Masotti family, and operated it for the next five and a half years. As of last summer, we’ve had another ownership change—[Italian entrepreneur] Silvio Scaglia bought the company outright last July. One of the nice things about having a strong team is that the North American customer has been buffered from any of those changes. We’ve continued to represent the brand, its legacy, its values, and its DNA through events, merchandising, and maintaining our real estate in key markets. There’s been a focus on maintaining that level of quality, prestige, and cachet around the brand. With our new owner, we launched a new ad campaign, and the new creative is just amazing. Silvio Scaglia really believes in marketing and reestablishing the brand with top luxury positioning in every way. That also goes for our media placements, revamping our website, and signing leases in the most amazing locations across the world. In the U.S., we’re opening three boutiques this year in San Francisco, Atlanta, and Houston. The brand has done some exciting collaborations in the past few years with the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier and Jason Wu. How have those proved energizing? All those things kept the product and brand fresh at retail, and spoke to the strength of La Perla—some of the best designers in the world have expressed interest in working with us. Now, we’re taking it to an even higher level. Roberto Baciocchi has also been enlisted to renovate the stores. Yes, he’s very well-known in terms of his work for Prada and Miu Miu. He’s very innovative, and we’ve opened new or renovated stores in London, Milan, the Four Seasons Macau, and Shanghai. It’s now rapid-fire in terms of renovations, as well as new doors. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
The men’s collection is another exciting development. How do you see that playing out in the United States? We’ll be launching for Spring ’15, and it will be very select, in terms of distribution and positioning. How do you explain La Perla’s longevity? Our client base is so loyal and dedicated. In a way, we’ve never been pigeonholed to a certain demographic or age bracket, and it’s allowed our client base to evolve over time. First, it’s a mother, and then her daughter becomes a client—we see them shopping together in our boutiques every day. The way the Masotti family launched and managed the brand for so many years was about timeless elegance. And La Perla’s quality is extraordinary. People ask me a lot, “How do you compare La Perla to this brand or that one?” And there’s no comparison. We don’t really see ourselves as having competition at what, exactly, we do. I love going back to our headquarters in Bologna, where I see women cutting, sewing, and taking care of product creation by hand. It’s so special. And each season, we do different things. There’s the same quality level, but it also evolves—we relate to trends. I’m always surprised when I see our collections come out, and admire the colors our designers have used…and then I’ll go to the runway shows two months later and see a lot of the same colors. Our very refined clients notice that, and our wholesale customers appreciate that our product is related to what’s going on in ready-to-wear as well. La Perla was visionary in treating lingerie like a fashion category. And it was the first to use color—that’s a fact. As we’ve changed and evolved in the past year, elevating our environments in the stores, our ownership has believed in elevating the product even further. The client is responding to it, and our business has never been better. How has your Italian improved over your tenure at La Perla? It hasn’t! Everyone has been so kind to me and spoken English—much to the demise of my plans to become fluent in Italian. patri c k m c m ulla n . c o m ; all o th e rs c o urt e s y
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MONUMENTAL MOMENTS! 1954
Ada Massoti opens the first La Perla atelier in Bologna, where she designs and produces lingerie for an elite clientele. 1960 La Perla unveils its first advertising campaign. 1965 A swim collection is introduced. 1994 The first La Perla flagship store opens in Milan on Via Montenapoleone. 1998 Following openings in Paris, Los Angeles, and London, La Perla opens its first American store on Madison Avenue in New York. 2001 La Perla launches ready-to-wear with its first runway show during Milan Fashion Week. 2003 Alessandro Dell’Acqua joins the brand and designs the ready-to-wear collection; he leaves La Perla in 2009. 2007 JH Partners, a private equity firm based in San Francisco, buys 70 percent of the company from the Masotti family. It acquires full ownership in 2008. 2008 Jean Paul Gaultier designs his first critically acclaimed capsule collection for the brand. 2013 La Perla is acquired by Pacific Global Management Group, a global talent management company owned by Italian entrepreneur Silvio Scaglia. 2014 La Perla relaunches its men’s collection, including a wide range of lifestyle pieces. New boutiques open on Rue de Grenelle in Paris, Old Bond Street in London, Pacific Place in Hong Kong, and at the Four Seasons Hotel in Macau. The brand has a major on-screen moment with Margot Robbie in The Wolf of Wall Street. 2015 La Perla will show during the couture collections in Paris.
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Spree
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Keanu leopardpony combo foldover bag
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Rhumba stretch boot
aquatalia Looking for some boots and bags to get you through fall and last well into winter? If Mother Nature repeats herself this year, these chic weatherproof pieces will be must-haves.
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Yanine block-heel bootie
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Wisdom boot
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Nerve wedge bootie
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Angelina lace-up sneaker
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Agatha high-top
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Hyacinth high-heel bootie
all photos courtesy
chicEST Report
How involved were you in the design process? It started off just doing a campaign shoot for Mulberry, as normal...as normal? I know that’s not normal! It was actually crazy, with all the animals. We sat down for lunch on set, as we always do, and I started talking about designing. My friend Alexa [Chung] had done a bag. I never thought mine would actually come about! Did you have a concept in mind? I always wanted to do a backpack, but one that hadn’t been done before. I wanted it to be for anyone, so it comes in different sizes, and it’s versatile for work, the gym, or going out to dinner. I went through the archives with the team, and I also asked all my friends what they would want in a bag. I wanted it to have little secrets, like the heart on the inside pocket. Did you go to the factory? Yes, and I met all the people who make the different parts of each bag. They take care of every little detail! What was it like working with all those animals for the Mulberry campaign? There was a hedgehog on set! I’d never seen a hedgehog before—it was this undulating spiky little thing that would turn on its back. It was fascinating. Then there was this cockatoo I called Pollyette. It sat on my shoulder all day and it wouldn’t get off. It was so fun! You have more than 6 million followers on Instagram alone. What’s it like to have that kind of influence? It’s really strange to me. Just a year ago, I didn’t even have a million followers on Instagram. I remember going to Bali and the people were telling me the population is 5 million or 6 million and I was like, “Wow! That’s how many followers I have on Instagram.” It’s also scary for people
who cross me. I can just post their photo and say, “Attack this person!” No, I’m joking. That’s never happened. Do you read the comments? There’s a lot of bullying, so if someone’s said something rude then I’ll say something. Is Twitter over? No, I don’t think so. With Instagram it’s just easier, because you can post a photo without having to say anything. You can do that on Twitter, too, but it’s different. Where do you like to hang out when you’re in New York? Brooklyn. If I lived in New York, I’d live there for sure. Every time I come, I like to go somewhere new, because I don’t really know New York as well as I should. There’s this amazing place called Shabu-Tatsu where they have this boiling pot and you just shove the meat in it and let it cook. I also love going to karaoke! Are you going to have time to hang out with your sister, Poppy, while you’re here? I saw her for literally one second. I just got in yesterday and I’m leaving tomorrow so it’s sad, because it’s a short trip. Poppy got her first tattoo last week and I got one as well, so we had that moment together. How many tattoos do you have? I honestly don’t even know! Fourteen? Maybe more? Do you have a favorite one? My bacon tattoo. It’s my newest one! Bacon? I have the word “bacon” tattooed on my foot, so when I put my feet together, they read, “Bacon Made In England.” I’m basically going to turn into bacon, because I’ve eaten so much of it! They say you are what you eat, right?
CARA TAKES NYC!
The divine Miss Delevingne graced Manhattan for merely a moment to toast her new capsule collection for Mulberry. Naturally, she was game to answer our most pressing questions. BY PAIGE REDDINGER
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