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September 11, 2015
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OF KORS HE CAN! Michael, our Michael will toast the launch of The Michael Kors Gold Fragrance Collection on Sunday. Hailee Steinfeld, Mario Testino, Kate Upton, Karmen Pedaru, and more are expected to attend. A special performance is scheduled, natch.
CHIC CHAT! WITH REBECCA DAYAN
Karmen Pedaru
Did you really spend a month living at the gallery? Yes! It was the best learning experience I ever had. I was very intimidated, and Mario Testino wondered if I could actually do this. But quite quickly, because a month is a very long time and a very short time, I just blocked out all of the noise in my head and the outside noise also, because you start working and people always have opinions. So you learn who to listen to, and not to listen to, and just be trusting, just doing what you feel like, and what you want. It feels like you’re being handed the microphone to talk, and you want to say something really smart and really important, and then ☛ Chanel is eventually you’re just like, f--k it! I’m going to stop listening to all of these hosting a popnoises in my head. I’m just going up shop in MePa to do what makes me happy. for its new Boy. I feel like art is also about joy. I Friend watch. One don’t like the whole snobbism around the in every color, please. art world. ☛ Actress and artist Which paintings do Rebecca Dayan Rebecca Dayan you especially love? opened her show, So, this one is of my “Assumption,” at friend Lola Kirke. All of them are friends of Catherine Ahnell mine, actually. I asked Gallery. A slew all of the girls to do of tastemakers replicate poses of the attended, bien Virgin Mary, because the exhibit is a play on sûr. the word virgin that Annabelle Lola Kirke Dexter-Jones originally did not have any sexual connotation. Dree Hemingway It just meant an independent young woman. So this one would be a funny, gory way to depict Mary and the Sacred Heart, except she’s pulling her heart out of her chest!
YOUR DAILY DOSE HEARD
Kate Upton
Hailee Steinfeld
RING! RING! RING!
Catching Up with Karl Lagerfeld
Kaiser time!
Hi, Karl. Where are you right now? St. Tropez. Lovely! How’s Choupette? She’s doing very well. I have a special big garden for her. She will hate going back to Paris where she has no garden. Does she go outside?
Yes. I don’t have to be next to Clarice Lispector her all the time. I work here, I have an atelier. I can’t work outside because the sun is so bright. Why do you and Brad [Kroenig] work well together? First of all, he’s such a nice person. It’s something I can’t explain. It just works well. For me, he and his kids, and his wife Nicole are like family. I don’t have a FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Gabriel-Kane Day-Lewis
family so I get to make a choice. What models are you into these days? I do more personality than models. I love to work with the same people for years. I still work with Baptiste Giabiconi, who stopped modeling for a moment because he wanted to go into music, but I think he was better in modeling. My new discovery I like a lot is Gabriel-Kane Day-Lewis, who is the son of Daniel Day-Lewis and Isabelle Adjani. What are you reading right now? All the books by Clarice Lispector, who is the Brazilian Virginia Woolf. How many books do you read a week? It depends on my time. I read in English, German, and French as much as I can, but days only have 24 hours and I need eight hours of sleep. Would you ever come back to New York to show Resort? We did it at Grand Central Station about 10 years ago. Come back! I will. The next one might be in Cuba. If that’s not possible, we will go to Portugal. BFANYC.COM (10); GETTY IMAGES (2); SHUTTERSTOCK; ALL OTHERS COURTESY
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MAIN MAN
Fix
With Manolo Blahnik Congratulations! How are you feeling? Suddenly I just can’t comprehend all of this, but it’s great. It’s a great honor and privilege. Everybody wants a picture with you! I’m not keen on my face in pictures, but I’m used to it now!
My favorite radio program is Alec Baldwin’s, and he told me that I look much better in real life. I said, “Coming from you,
Martha’s artha’s fancy footwear!
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☛ The Tents exited Lincoln Center, but the David H. Koch Theater remained home to sir! A professional beauty! That’s the unofficial kickoff to Fashion Week on great!” Wednesday. The FIT Couture Council’s illustriWhat are you going to do in ous Artistry of Fashion Award went to Manolo New York for fun? Fun? I don’t think I’m having Blahnik, who was honored at the annual lunany fun yet. Maybe in a week. cheon. Spotted: Uma Thurman, Camila Alves, Martha Stewart, Glenda Bailey, Joanna Coles, GETTING INTO Di Mondo, Ralph Rucci, Stefano Tonchi, and more. Anna CHARACTER sat next to Manolo, of course. On his other side? Last year’s With Linda Fargo Couture Council recipient, Carolina Herrera. Good times—and Let’s talk Manolo! quality footwear—were had by all! I remember when I first came to New York and went to Bergdorf’s and Manolo had his own little shop. It was that thing you dreamed of. They were on the forefront of aspiring to this beautiful and perfectly feminine shoe. There
OLD BUDDIES!
With Carolina Herrera Great to see you! Thanks! I like being here because my friend Manolo is getting the award and I was honored last year. This
organization is fabulous! How do you know Manolo? I’ve known him for a long, long time. Maybe since the end of the ’70s. He’s quite a personality! He’s fantastic! He’s a very special person, because
he’s full of fantasy and very intelligent. He’s a great friend.
Hilaria and Alec Baldwin
Audrey Gruss and Petra Levin Barbara Tober
UNCIL’S O C E R U T FIT COU LUNCHEON
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
was always a dream built into his shoe. He was on to something. The shoe business, like the bag business, became incredibly dynamic after that. Do you know Manolo? I do. Not that well, but the first word that comes to my mind is that he’s a character. When you’re looking for anything, you want character! Who are you wearing? Veronica Beard, and my shoes are Saint Laurent. They match!
Petra Nemcova Jean Shafiroff and Maggie Norris
RELIGIOUS BANTER
“He’s the only man who I can honestly say has been with me every step of the way, literally. In fact, every big event of
With Cameron Silver
What does Manolo Blahnik mean to the industry? He was the first cobbler of that new generation. He started in the ’70s and became a household name. He opened the door for Jimmy
Choo, Christian Louboutin, Brian Atwood. Do you know him? Intimately! [Laughs] I’ve never met him, but he’s seen my feet! The pair of Manolos that I’m wearing tonight are from the early ’90s. I bought them in London at his boutique. I was with my mom. To buy a pair of Manolo Blahniks back then was religious. I’ve kept every pair I’ve ever bought. He doesn’t do kitchen sink shoes. He does shoes that make you feel like a lady.
Uma Thurman
my life has included Manolo Blahnik. He’s a true artist. The exquisitely shaped heels that he creates are perfected with his very own hands. In 1970, Diana Vreeland, then the editor of Vogue, upon seeing his drawings expounded that he must follow his career path.” —Uma Thurman
Hamish Bowles
THINGS TO DISCUSS: ANNA’S UNEATEN LUNCH!
She did appear to enjoy the shrimp, but chérie, what do you have against white asparagus?
I feel like a lady right now! How many pairs of shoes do you own? About 400, including Nikes. I rotate them. My closet is much smaller here. It’s a little complicated. You’re living in New York now! It’s been about 24 hours. So far, so good! Grapefruits are very expensive, though. I like grapefruit, and they’re like $12 on Madison Avenue.
Camila Alves
Amy Fine Collins Fe Fendi and guest
Ralph Rucci
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M GETTY IMAGES
ETERNAL SUMMER!
With Margherita Maccapani Missoni
u z B z
the
What did you do this summer? Margherita I gave birth to my Missoni Charlotte second son, Augusto, Ronson on May 1, so my summer was very relaxed and super long. We relocated Rachel Zoe and to Portofino, which is Rodger Berman Polina Proshkina a two-hour drive from home, from mid-June Jessica Hart to mid-July, then spent a little less than two weeks at home. At the beginning of August we caught a plane to Spain’s Costa Brava, as my husband ☛ Margherita Maccapani has a place there. I had a Missoni’s in town! The Daily fave chance to visit Cadaqués— toasted Missoni’s collab with Peroni at it’s absolutely beautiful. From there, we flew to my the Gramercy Park Hotel. ☛ Strolling family’s house in Sardinia, in style—Diesel is unveiling its latest where we spent the last collab with Bugaboo this week. two weeks of our holiday. ☛ Laurence Dacade’s killer capsule What’s your NYC routine? collection of booties is debuting at I live in the Bowery, so I Bergdorf Goodman momentarily. ☛ And! hang out in that area a lot. I Holst + Lee is doing the jewelry for Whitney eat Asian and Mexican cuiPozgay’s WHIT collection. ☛ sines, as I can rarely get such fare in rural Italy. Kura on St. Marks is a favorite. When I’m here I always visit museums, so this time GLOBAL GOALS I want to go to the Met to see the African portrait photography exhibit. With Seafolly CEO Anthony Halas How often do you get to New York Fashion Week? Where did Seafolly originate? Very often, but I don’t attend many shows. Actually I rarely attend It was created in 1975 and was born out of my mother and them at all. It’s just a good time for me to schedule meetings and father’s great love of Bondi Beach. We are now part of LVMH, see my friends. and our intention is to become a global lifestyle brand. What’s the scoop on MisWhere can we find it? soni’s collab with Peroni? We have flagships in Manhattan and Newport Beach, and I saw this as a unique opporSan Diego, and are stocked in Nordstrom and Neiman tunity to re-interpret a classic of the Marcus. Our focus for store openings is the West Coast. Italian staple in a modern way How has Seafolly set itself apart? through the lens of Peroni. The Design and marketing. We also offer an evolving lifestyle pocket square is a staple for collection that you can wear any time of the year. men, especially in Italian culLoving the Gilligan in red suede from Who are some of the major stars of your campaigns? ture. Peroni is based in Rome, Stuart Weitzman! Inspired by the Miranda Kerr, Martha Hunt, and, most recently, Gigi Hadso I researched the city’s traditional ballet slipper, this suede id. We continually cast models to ensure we establish the squares in order to translate d’orsay flat features a lace-up detail crafted from best fit for our brand in terms of aspiration and reach. their designs into the pocket supple nappa leather. $398, What is the biggest style of the moment in Australia? square. In the end, the Piazza available in stores and Athleisure is this season’s hottest trend, with a wanderdel Campidoglio was the best at stuartweitzman.com lust attitude, boho essence and retro edge. fit: It’s the ancient citadel of Tell us about your plans to expand into lifestyle. Rome designed by MichelanWith a larger offering, we’re able to develop our footprint gelo himself and it’s absoin other markets that aren’t dependent on seasons. lutely stunning.
Fix
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Editor in Chief, CEO Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Reporter Sydney Sadick Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists Neal Clayton, George Maier Editorial Assistant Kassidy Silva
Mark Tevis Publisher
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Suno’s Fall 2015 beauty look was all about the ultra-thick, trunkated eyeliner. Enter the Eye Studio Master Graphic Liquid Liner from Maybelline New York. It’s the first liquid liner with a tri-angled tip: Use the flat side for a bold thick line, and the tip for the edges. The standout, pitch black finish will last all day.
ON THE COVER: FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
The Daily Front Row photo composite
MATERNAL INSTINCTS
When a designer as talented, articulate, and downright adorable as Wes Gordon comes along, a natural question presents itself: Who raised this man? Introducing Diane Gordon, a striking former advertising executive who surely must be one of the best-dressed women in her native Atlanta. BY ASHLEY BAKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What was Wes like as a baby? Diane: He was a serious little guy, and very artistic from the beginning. He was just beautiful—a super-blond little towhead. Never been a good sleeper, maybe now. Wes: I slept on my parents’ floor so much during childhood. Diane: I wasn’t going to say that! I used to work—I worked in advertising—and we’d say, don’t say anything, don’t wake us up. Wes: Let’s preface that—I must have been 3, because she stopped working when I was 4. Diane: It was so bad! He just breeaaathed on me. Wes: I would get scared. Diane: He has a great imagination, and he could scare himself into anything. When did you discover that he was artistic? Diane: When he was 2 years old. He would color everything inside the lines so precisely, and he had a very good eye for color. From age 3, he was in art classes all the time, any kind of art we could find. The school didn’t offer much at that point, besides finger painting. He was amazing, always. Most kids his age were drawing stick figures; Wes drew full-bodied people with clothes on. We were like, how did he do that? When was it clear that he had an eye for fashion? Wes: I was obsessed with clothes. Diane: Not only his own! He wouldn’t wear jeans or gym shoes when he was like 4 or 5. For his fourth birthday, he wanted a suit, and to see Phantom of the Opera. He would wear plaid pants with little suspenders, button-down shirts, and oxford shoes to preschool. When I was working, he would pick out my outfit every morning—and tell me what shoes to wear with it. He had amazing taste. Wes: I was just bossy. Diane: I loved clothes too, and I had a closet full of things that he would go through. What were you wearing back then? Diane: Nipon, and Alexander Julian…clothes were gross then, but still. Charles Jourdan shoes every day… Wes, how stylish was she? Wes: Very. She is so beautiful—everyone tells me to this day how pretty my mom is. All throughout school, I had that pretty mom. She’s always been so elegant, and wears clothes so well. And she’d always take us shopping. She was never a mom who would just buy clothes for my sister and me—she’d take us to try things on. We moved a lot, and in every house, we got to decorate our own bedrooms. She allowed us a lot of opportunity to find our own ways to express ourselves, and I think that leads to a really healthy individualism in kids. And it’s also risky—I don’t know if I would let a kid pick out paint colors. Was she strict about anything? Wes: She was definitely a cool mom, we could only watch one TV show a week—we weren’t allowed to watch The Simpsons—and we weren’t allowed to say “shut up” or “butt.” Diane: And you couldn’t say “hate.” You were both very good kids, very easy to raise. Wes: I was easier than my sister. Diane: They were so easy that I didn’t have to be strict—I just kind of followed their lead, and supported them. Wes: The four of us had dinner every night, and she cooked. Diane: I haven’t done that since you left the house! I wasn’t a good cook at all—it was a chore for me, but I went to the store on Monday and had my recipes from Cooking Light. I’d make the first two, but the last three would be like, mmmm, never mind. But we did manage to sit down every dinner. The kids liked to play quiz games. Wes: State capitals, presidents…What was really cool was when I was at Saint Martins, and I was making my graduation collection. She came over for two weeks to help me. It was an insane time, even more insane than preparing for real Fashion Week, because you don’t have help. She kept my life organized, and then she sat on a couch in my apartment in London for five days, sewing beads on a pair of pants. It was really cute. What was your reaction when he decided to go to Saint Martins? Diane: I was thrilled for Wes that he got in. I was scared. He was so upset, because it was so far away! I cried the whole way home after I dropped him off.
What’s your husband like? He’s very tall, handsome, with very distinguished gray hair. I met him in college—he played football—and he’s absolutely the love of my life. We’ve been married for 33 years, and I can’t imagine a better dad for our kids. He’s been so supportive of everything. Did you have empty nest syndrome? Diane: Never. Did I? Wes: Oh, my God! Diane: Well, I just came to see you! I redecorate, I move, I get a job, I get a job…I’m much better now. I miss them terribly. They’re my best friends. Did Wes have a rebellious streak? Diane: Never. What is the naughtiest thing he’s ever done? Sneaking out and drinking? Diane: No. That’s Lindsay. Wes: This will be printed, you know… Diane: She won’t care. She knows it! Wes: I was an overly good kid. I’d get a bad grade on a math quiz and I’d be so nervous about telling my parents. Not because they’d do anything about it. Diane: Wes pushed himself so hard that we never had to. Wes, what were you like as a teenager? Wes: Because I had this secret interest in going into fashion, I was super aggressive about overcompensating in the other direction. Academically, I was super fixated on getting a really good SAT score, and taking a ton of SAT classes and getting into a really good college. It wasn’t until the last final moment that I said, I want to go to Central Saint Martins. I was on the swim team, I was president of speech and debate, I did plays… Diane: You spent all of high school building your résumé. You got into 12 or 13 schools, none of which saw your face. What was going through your mind at Wes’ first collection? Diane: I was incredibly proud that this kid of mine could stand up there and talk about his collection without missing a beat. Wes: It was a day-long presentation in a hotel room during a blizzard. I did 85 presentations, essentially. I stood up all day long and talked. Last season, Anna [Wintour] came to our show for the first time, and she came early and was seated by herself. My mom thought that she was lonely, so she goes over and chats with her. Diane: She’s lovely. That’s Southern hospitality! Do your friends in Atlanta know what a big deal your son is? Wes: I’m not a big deal, but her friends think I am. Diane: If they don’t know, I tell them. What’s your favorite time you’ve spent together? Diane: Between his freshman and sophomore years of high school, we went to Paris. His sister was at camp, his dad was on a project, and the two of us spent six days in Paris. He was studying French, and he was amazing. I tired this boy out—he was falling asleep in cabs. We saw every museum, and he had to speak French the whole time. I would love to travel everywhere with him—Iceland, Patagonia, and Egypt. Does Wes have a vulgar bone in his body? Diane: If he does, I haven’t seen it. He’s perfect!
“
All throughout school, I had that pretty mom.”
FIRSTVIEW (2); ALL OTHERS COURTESY
MOTHERLY
LOVE!
We thought we knew you well, dear designers‌until we asked your mothers for the inside scoop! Meet the matriarchs behind some of our brightest stars. Clockwise from top left: Linda, Jen, and Lisa Salzer; Laurie Lindsey and Ryan Roche; Rebecca and Patricia Taylor; Shira and Rachel Antonoff FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CLEMENTINE ROWLEY, mother of Cynthia Rowley
Domicile: Barrington, Illinois, and Florida Profession: I’ve always been a fulltime mom. Talent scout: Cynthia started making her own clothes when she was 7. As a child: She was always energetic, very creative, with lots of friends and a positive outlook. She gets that from me! As a teenager: Very much of the same, but she was a little bit wilder. Her father had to bail her out of jail once. But she never gave up—she set goals and found ways to achieve them, and worked hard to get money for college. She had many creative jobs—housecleaning, sewing, selling sewn items at sidewalk sales, painting houses. Favorite collection: The one with the plaid shirtwaist dresses, which were made of a soft flannel. Treasured times: My favorite way to spend time with her is either preparing family meals or going to the beach. Go-to pieces: I love the top with the lei on the front, and I wear Rowley eyewear every day.
SANDRA SCOTT, mother to Jeremy Scott
Domicile: Kansas City, Missouri Profession: I’m retired now, but I taught special education in Kansas City Public Schools. Talent scout: When Jeremy was 3 or 4, he wanted to be involved in choosing his clothing. As a preteen, he saved all his allowance and part of his lunch money to spend on a piece of clothing. He would call Barneys or a department store in New York and ask the salesperson in the young men’s department to describe what they had from Jean Paul Gaultier and if any of it had been marked down. He would then buy something and have it sent to the house. As a teenager: Jeremy developed more of an interest in all kinds of art. He won recognition in high school events in different mediums. He seemed to enjoy papermaking, clay, drawing. He seemed to enjoy all art mediums and language skills, taking Japanese and French language classes. He studied Japanese language at a college night class during his high school years because his high school didn’t offer Japanese. Treasured times: I’m happy just riding around with him while he is going on errands. I enjoy simple things like going to lunch with him—he teases me that I won’t pick out what I’m going to have for lunch until I know what he is going to have first. Go-to pieces: My favorite is a dress he made me out of a print he designed with teddy bears carrying guns. I have several pair of shoes with wings, of course, and a purse that looks like a leather jacket.
SHIRA ANTONOFF, mother of Rachel Antonoff
Domicile: New Jersey Profession: I am a retired nurse. Talent scout: Rachel was always very creative. She loved “creating” things starting at a young age. She had a tremendous imagination— when she was 12, she directed and made sets and decorations for a musical show with all the neighborhood children at the beach. She dedicated her whole summer to it—a drive and work ethic that she manifests in work today! As a child: Rachel always had a fabulous sense of humor, even as a tiny child. I think that humor comes through in her work. Her presentations and clothes have a sense of whimsy and often outright—and outrageous—humor! I love it.
As a teenager: She was a very easy teenager to be around. She continued to be passionate about creative things. Favorite collection: I did love Spring 2014 as it included the “boob” print, based on the art of Francine Dressler. I adored the suit. Treasured times: I love being with my daughter anytime, anywhere. One of my favorites is when I get to travel with her for business. Rachel has invited me to travel with her to Tokyo, India, and Sweden. It’s girl time only, and I love every minute. Besides the jet lag! Go-to pieces: I love my Rachel Antonoff clothing. I’d say my current favorite piece is my “Lena” skirt. It’s unique and beautiful; I got tons of compliments when I recently wore it to a wedding. In addition I live in her T-shirts and sweatshirts. Not only comfy, but with conversation-inducing words on them. Not to embarrass Rachel, but I couldn’t be more impressed or have more respect for her!
LUCINDA JEAN SELMAN, mother of Adam Selman
Domicile: I live on an 8-acre ranch right in the middle of Texas…huge sky with beautiful clouds, amazing sunsets in the evening, abundance of deer, and an occasional rattlesnake. Profession: I am the certification coordinator in the College of Education at a Baptist university. I assist our students in obtaining their teaching certificates. Talent scout: The first time I noticed Adam’s love of fashion was at his seventh birthday party. All the children arrived in their play clothes, and Adam walks out of his room wearing navy pants, a long-sleeved white shirt and a navy pinstriped vest, which I made him myself because he wanted one so badly. I thought, this look won’t last long. I was wrong—Adam held the ‘look’ all through the party! As a child: Adam was very outgoing, very much a people person. He was fearless and constantly on the go! When he was 6 years old, I had gone to Boston on a trip. During my absence he had something he wanted to tell me. He got it into his head that the best way to talk to me was to make the trip to Boston. So he hopped on his bike and proceeded to bike to Boston. We lived in North Carolina at the time! He made it out of our subdivision before a neighbor saw him and brought him home. As a teenager: Adam tried every sport and extracurricular activity that school had to offer. He found his calling in the arts and cheerleading. Yes, cheerleading! Favorite collection: His recent pearl collection. I also truly loved the black dress that Rihanna wore with the pearl glasses. Utterly stunning! Treasured times: Spending time with Adam, no matter the event, is always fun! When he was younger, we would get up early on Saturday mornings and go to estate sales. In more recent years, Adam has developed into an excellent cook. He made the pies for our Thanksgiving dinner. We had a blast in the kitchen! Go-to pieces: I would love to wear an Adam Selman creation, but alas, my body won’t cooperate. When I come back tall and thin, I plan on wearing a gown inspired by the alluring Audrey Hepburn and the beautiful Grace Kelly. When I make this request of Adam, he always smiles at me and says, “You’ve got it, Mom.” I believe him—he is a man of his word!
PATRICIA TAYLOR, mother of Rebecca Taylor
Domicile: Wellington, New Zealand Profession: Retired Talent scout: Rebecca always liked dressing up from age of 3…and she always wanted to embellish her clothing with a fancy belt! As a child: She was very imaginative and very determined. As a teenager: She was creative and single-minded! Favorite collection: Every one has items I am really taken with. I still wear dresses of hers from 10 years ago. Treasured times: I enjoy spending time with her when we are with family, and also very much enjoyed spending time with her while she was preparing for a show, together with her inclusive and talented staff. Go-to pieces: Despite my age, I find that many of her pieces are well suited to me—particularly jackets and longer skirts. B FA N YC . C O M ( 4 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ; A L L OT H E R S C O U R T E S Y
LAURIE LINDSEY, mother of Ryan Roche
Domicile: Bellevue, Idaho. I am originally from Glendale, California. Profession: I’ve been retired for four years. I worked for the school district as a secretary and was always doing sewing projects on the side. Talent scout: Every year, I would make my three girls a new dress for the first day of school. One Valentine’s day, Ryan wanted a special dress for a party at school. She picked out the pattern and the fabric. It was a fancy white taffeta dress with ruffles, the buttons had little red/white hearts on them. I watched her walk down the hall as if she were a princess. I could tell she loved that dress and the way it made her feel about herself. As a child: Ryan was very athletic and was always standing on her head. At the age of 3, she could stand on her head for hours, literally. She was an outdoor child, always adventurous and inquisitive. She was always asking questions about everything. As a teenager: She had a million friends. She was a loving, respectful, caring teenager. Fashion became very important to her, and she loved to explore and create. She had a very competitive nature, and always followed through with her ideas and dreams. Favorite collection: Each season, she manages to surprise and delight me. I love her approach to soft and cozy apparel. Every piece makes you feel warm and wonderful. Treasured times: I love every minute I got to spend with Ryan. Gymnastic meets, volleyball tournaments, working on talent shows, sewing costumes for school plays, or just helping get her fashion line started. I love the way she always includes me in her life.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
JODI LAPOINTE, mother of Sally LaPointe
Domicile: Marblehead, Massachusetts, in the home where Sally grew up. Profession: Currently, I volunteer at a Hospice House. In past years, I have worked with The Wellness Center, a cancer support center, as well as working at a veterinary hospital. Most importantly, and what I am most proud of, is being a mom. I have loved raising our children, with my husband, to be kind and thoughtful people. As a child: Sally was a quiet and very gentle presence. She preferred to be on the outside of a group of people, never in the middle. I would frequently find her sitting quietly, watching the world and the people in it go by. She was content with herself, and never enjoyed being the center of attention— she avoided that at all cost. As a teenager: Sally continued to be a bit quiet and introverted. However, attention to her appearance was always critical. Though she appeared to be introverted, I could sense the beginnings of her fierce ambition and desire to find her own voice. Favorite collection: It will be the next one that I have not yet seen. I am fascinated by what she creates and live in a constant state of anticipation for each collection. Treasured times: My favorite way to spend time with Sally is simple….a walk to the beach, sitting on a rock talking and listening to her. We also love to eat.
LINDA SALZER, mother of Lisa Salzer
Domicile: Southampton, New York. Profession: I’m a registered nurse and a middle school health teacher. As a child: Lisa was strong-willed and independent. I could tell she was an old soul even then. She was always very interested in other cultures, and loved learning from her grandmother about antique jewelry from other countries. She always had a thirst for knowledge and soaked up everything. As a teenager: Lisa was, and still is, very emotional, independent, and interested in the world around her. In high school, she lived in Nepal for a summer on a community service trip, and also worked on a cattle ranch in Montana. She was always interested in having diverse experiences and pushing herself. Favorite collection: I loved Lisa’s “Modern Pioneer” collection, which juxtaposed Native American turquoise and porcupine quills with 1950s glamorous costume jewelry—for me, this collection perfectly exemplifies her appreciation for other cultures and design aesthetic of modernizing the traditional. Treasured times: My favorite way to spend time with Lisa is talking about the metaphysical world and spiritual occurrences that we both experience from time to time. She often tells me that she feels the spirit of her grandmother, my mother, guiding her through life’s challenges. We often have ESP together—we know when the phone is about to ring! And of course I love shopping for fabulous vintage pieces with Lisa. I taught her everything she knows about negotiating!
PHILLIPE BLOND pays tribute to his dad
DAVID BLOND remembers his mother
My father has always been everything to me. He taught me how to sew at a very young age and always encouraged my obsession with fashion and music. He’s the reason I do what I do today. My dad was a total hippie with a New York City edge and had a very open-minded sense of style, no limits. He’d drag me all around the city in a papoose, and this is where the seeds of my inspiration came from.
My mother was the most beautiful person and always pushed me to pursue whatever was going to make me happy, no matter the challenges. Growing up, she had an amazing closet filled with a mix of late ’70s early ’80s clothes, shoes, and accessories. I loved seeing her get ready for a night out. High heels and a jumpsuit were her go-to, and this still inspires me today!
B FA N YC . C O M ( 5 ) ; A L L OT H E R S C O U R T E S Y
S:10.25”
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Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. ©2015 Maybelline LLC.
Grand ENTRANCE For the debut of her luxury ready-to-wear line Karigam, CEO and creative director Karina Gamez is pulling out all the stops: a runway show, an e-commerce launch, and a Spring/Summer ’16 campaign starring Hilary Rhoda and Jessica Stam (!). The Venezuelan native swears that this is only the start. BY SYDNEY SADICK PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEFANIA CURTO You’re making quite a big splash. Why did you decide to go all-out from the start? Karigam is strong, so I wanted to introduce it in a strong way. I want to show high-end, quality garments, and it has to be accompanied with a debut that’s at the same level and taste of Karigam women. As a new brand, it’s necessary to do this because nobody knows Karigam, and I think this is going to open some doors. I want to continue making big steps. This is just the beginning. Why do you think the world needs Karigam? I think we are a part of this new generation of designers. Karigam comes with fresh and modern styles that are still very sophisticated and minimalistic. It’s elegant with a touch of urban edge for the modern woman. Is this your first time designing clothes? Yes, it is! I went to school in Venezuela, where I grew up, and studied business administration and fashion design. I always knew that I was passionate about fashion. When I was 15 years old I came to New York to see the energy that the city has. I knew then that it was a city where I could get a lot of inspiration. Even at that time I was following the Fashion Week shows in New York, Milan, and London. My clothes are now made here—the fabrics are Italian—and I think we’re taking a big step by launching the brand officially at New York Fashion Week. Are you nervous? I’m both excited and nervous. It’s my first collection, so I’m nervous about what the customers and viewers will think, but designing is truly what I like to do. What are you most excited about for Fashion Week? Everything is exciting about showing at Fashion Week! Launching Karigam at the same venue where other amazing and important designers are going to show their collections—designers I admire and respect—is incredible for me! This is my first runway show and everything is new for me, but I have an amazing team behind me doing their best to make sure everything goes well. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Why did you choose Hilary Rhoda and Jessica Stam to appear in your Spring ’16 campaign? To me, they have the essence of the Karigam woman: She’s successful, has a distinct style, and knows about fashion. Having great models like Hilary and Jessica will attract a lot of people to see who Karigam is. What were you doing before Karigam? I had another business, an import and export company in Miami, but I realized that I loved fashion more than the other work I was doing. It just felt like the right time to do what I love. I still live in Miami, but I’m coming to New York more and more. Is your family supportive? My family always knew that I loved fashion, so they supported me. Finally, I’m doing what I wanted to do since I was a teenager. Where do you look for design inspiration? Definitely New York City. I love the iconic skyline because it combines both classic and modern architecture. I love the energy of New York. I also listen to music. What kind of music? Electronic mostly. I love David Guetta. He’s a great DJ. Where will we be able to shop Karigam? We’re launching our Fall/Winter ’15 collection on our e-commerce website around the second week of September. At the same time, we will launch the Spring/ Summer ’16 line at our Fashion Week show. Do you have a favorite piece from your collections so far? It’s so hard because I really do love all of them, but if I had to choose a favorite, it would be the layered dress that we make. It incorporates a lot of different fabrics and textures, so I like that. I use a lot of asymmetric lines in my clothes, but there’s definitely a mix of styles throughout the collection. And the clothes will probably always be black and white, but for the Spring collection, we’ve added some pops of rose, navy, and a grape-looking color. What brands and designers do you look up to? I love Balenciaga and Alexander Wang. And I really love Carolina Herrera. She is from Venezuela, like me, and I love her elegant style. Could you ever see yourself expanding into other categories? We have plans to expand into accessories, but probably in a year from now. What will you do when Fashion Week is over? Continue working. We won’t stop. My overall goal is to maintain Karigam for a long time. Any time to relax? If I want to relax, I draw. I love sketching things that inspire me.
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TAYLOR MADE
For the past two years, retail legend Stephanie Soloman has been infusing Lord & Taylor with her particular brand of chic. The store’s VP and fashion director explains what she’s working on. BY ASHLEY BAKER
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
You’ve been at Lord & Taylor almost two years…after what must have been the shortest retirement in history! Yes, but it was enjoyable while I had it! I was really glad to get back in the swing of things, that’s for sure. What’s the scope of your responsibilities at Lord & Taylor? I’m the vice president and fashion director of all women’s ready-to-wear, shoes, and accessories. It’s the quintessential fashion director job—I work closely with the merchants to cover the markets and fashion shows. I’m continually tapping into street trends and pop culture to deliver what I believe are the most relevant fashion messages for Lord & Taylor. It’s a great job; Lord & Taylor is an incredible, iconic department store with, I must tell you, a world-class merchant team. These buyers have a passion for fashion like you’ve never seen. That’s one of the joys of my day-to-day job. What was your first interaction with Lord & Taylor? I was a sophomore in high school, and my mother took me to Lord & Taylor to buy my junior prom dress. I was in love with this guy—he was obviously a year older than me, because it was junior prom, and it was a big status thing to be invited. I went to Lord & Taylor, and I could describe the dress in detail. No doubt! From then on, every single social occasion dress I’ve ever bought for my entire life has been from Lord & Taylor, despite the fact that during some of that time, I worked for another department store! What’s your vision for the store’s buy? First of all, the landscape of retail has changed dramatically in the past 10 years, and differentiating yourself is key for being relevant in today’s retail environment. The first experience that we’ve executed was to develop Brand Assembly, a group of up-and-coming designers, and give them great real estate. That was our first segue into differentiation. We also branded our fast fashion area and named it Design Lab, which was always a very important retail destination at Lord & Taylor, but now it has a name, and it’s resonating with the customers very strongly. The third is to develop a concept called the Birdcage. The Birdcage was an iconic restaurant at Lord & Taylor—my grandmother used to know about it— and we brought it back as a gift destination on our second floor on Fifth Avenue. It has a myriad of hard-to-find, unique items that are not massmarketed. Scarves, jewelry, T-shirts…and the fourth part is our recent collaboration with Yigal Azrouël, our guest designer at Design Lab.
Is he a designer that Lord & Taylor has had a long relationship with? He’s had a long relationship with me [laughs], and I don’t mean physically! He’s a designer that Lord & Taylor has been watching, and we loved his aesthetic. We knew he was the right partner to elevate the Design Lab point of view. I’m most passionate about that area, because part of my contribution to Lord & Taylor was to bring the trends to our customer as fast as possible. We spend a lot of time researching trends all over the world to find out about the next thing. That’s one of the joys of my job description. How does the Design Lab customer differ from the Lord & Taylor customer? Every day, we’re gaining new customers for Design Lab. We’re in the Garment District—this is a destination store for all of Seventh Avenue. During lunch hour, I run into half of my friends! Everybody is shopping. Which fall shapes and trends are you most excited about? It’s no secret by now that the ’70s have returned with a vengeance. Although we’ve been there before, this time around, it’s much more relevant, because there’s a whole generation of millennials who have never experienced bell-bottoms, flare pants, shaggy vests, peasant blouses, the saddlebags. They love it! Are you into this trend yourself? Yes! I’m wearing a floppy hat, a tiered floral dress, and a saddlebag, so of course I am! The ’70s were a revolution for fashion. It’s no wonder that fashion designers are tapping into an era that’s so exciting. Which designers are doing it best? Anna Sui. She’s a quintessential ’70s icon, and she always has been! I sat at her runway show and went, whoa! Brocade dresses, high shaft boots, fur vests…it was spot-on, and she’s always stood for it. Rebecca Taylor, too—she’s a ’70s girl, and she’s always had that essence in her Fall collection. If you could only buy one new thing for fall… A fur vest, and it doesn’t have to be real. We have a great teal blue one with dark tips at Lord & Taylor. Do you keep your clothes forever? Some of them, but I recycle. I gave about six bags of clothes to Libertine—you may see some on their runway! What are you looking forward to this week? I could make some predictions, and I’d probably be right, but I’d much rather be surprised. That’s what makes fashion tick! It’s the same experience when you walk into a store and see something you didn’t realize you needed. How will you push the envelope at Lord & Taylor in 2016? Lord & Taylor is a gem on Fifth Avenue. My way to push the envelope is to share that knowledge with the world. Through my expertise, I will push it forward through our catalog, through e-commerce, our merchandise assortment. People should know about us—everybody feels very passionate here, and that passion has been there, always. The store’s calming, it’s easy to shop, and it has a lot of history behind it, and all of that comes through as soon as you walk through the doors of any store. It’s the iconic American shopping experience. Is there anywhere to grab a bite for lunch? Of course! Sarabeth’s! It’s the best. The best tomato soup in the world. Everybody should come shopping at Lord & Taylor, and then meet me for lunch afterward. I’d be happy to entertain you.
B FA N YC . C O M ; A L L OT H E R S C O U R T E S Y
ANGEL AMONG US
Angel with Doutzen Kroes
Jennifer Lopez, Naomi Watts, Doutzen Kroes, Jane Fonda—thanks to his tony gig with L’Oréal, Michael Angel styles them all. Does he have one of the best jobs in the business? We report, you decide… BY ASHLEY BAKER FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
The last time we spoke, it was about your ready-to-wear collection! What ever happened to it? Your digital prints were masterful. I took a break. There were two factors involved—one was that digital prints became so overexposed, and they also became very commercial. It was a very difficult medium to keep working with in my price point, because my $1,800 dresses were competing with all the main chains. It became very costly—the people in the industry were very responsive, but it was a matter of deciding, is it worth it at this point? And I never had financial backing, so it was done out of my own pocket. I’ve always been an artist, so I was just putting that art on clothing and trying to express something. In the very beginning, buyers were like, “Michael, nobody’s going to wear head-to-toe print. They’re not! Michael, people are not going to wear printed leggings.” And I was like, ‘Really?” You were five years ahead of the trend—now, you can’t get away from a printed legging! Being five years ahead of the time is a good thing and a bad thing! So now you’re focusing on styling? Yes. Even when I was designing my line, I was styling. I worked with Maybelline for 11 years, and then Cyril Chapuy, who had been president of Maybelline, moved over to L’Oréal. He had asked his team, which was myself, [makeup artist] Charlotte Willer, and [hairstylist] Stephan Lancien, to come over to L’Oréal and do what we’d done for the Maybelline brand. We’ve worked very hard in the past five years to build upon its imagery. L’Oréal is a massive global brand. What’s your schedule like? I’m styling all the major campaigns and TV commercials, and I also do the Cannes Film Festival. I’m pretty busy most of the year, although it gets quieter in the summer due to the European holidays. We have a magnificent roster of spokespeople, so it’s a very inspiring group of women to work with. L’Oréal and Cyril have done an incredible job. What does the Cannes Film Festival entail? L’Oréal is one of the major sponsors of the festival, so they invite over 30 of their spokeswomen from around the world. We have a base there, and we style the women for press and red carpet appearances. We’re in a big suite, and I have about 10 racks of clothing, and every day there are new things coming in and out. We’re styling four or five women a day for two weeks. I have a huge team, and we make sure that they look the best that they can from morning to night to red carpet. Which women are you working with the most? For L’Oréal ad campaigns, TV, and print, I work with Jennifer Lopez, Doutzen Kroes, Natasha Poly, Lara Stone, Barbara Palvin, Eva Longoria, Inès de la Fressange, Julianne Moore, Freida Pinto, Naomi Watts, Zoe Saldana. Your Instagram feed suggests that you have the best job ever. I do! [Laughs] How do you handle working with so many different women at once? It’s become an easier process because I know so many of the women very well. We have such a good rapport. When I pull a rack of clothes, I have a really clear idea of what they like as well as the message we want to send out for L’Oréal. In terms of the clothing, we pick things that aren’t generic, and we push the women to make them appear fashion-focused, edgy, and sophisticated, with a French look about them. What’s it like to work with Diane Keaton? I adore Diane Keaton. She’s a very funny woman. She’s super intelligent, amazing to be around, and she has such a specific style. She has the Annie Hall template, and you don’t want to change that too much, but you want to try and move it forward. The last shoot I did with her, I put her in a beautiful white Chloé pant with a black grid. She was hesitant at first, but we paired it with a black tuxedo
jacket and a bowler hat. I try not to do complete looks on women—I tell them to bring pieces they like and are comfortable in, and then they just mix it in. What about Jane Fonda? She’s probably one of the best things about my job with L’Oréal. I’ve had an amazing opportunity with her. The first time we worked together, I put her in an Atelier Versace mesh dress. In the lookbook, it was on a twentysomething woman, and I asked her to put it on. She came out of the changing room, and everyone was like, “What the…!” It was a moment. Jane has an incredible energy—she’s quite demure in real life, but she’ll put something on and everyone’s jaw drops. She’s a star. What’s your next big project? Summer’s over, unfortunately. I just had an amazing month in Greece. I’ve got a Maybelline project coming up with Gigi Hadid, and I think she’s a huge star. Which designers do you rely on? Lanvin, Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, Chloé, Céline—I love the brands that don’t scream who they are, but you know that women love to wear them because they’re chic, sophisticated, and simplified. We don’t want anything to
distract from what we’re trying to do. It’s really about detail—well-made clothing and things that look great on the women. Red carpet is a different story, though. That’s about creating showstopping looks. What were some of your favorite looks from the Cannes red carpet? Natasha Poly in the Atelier Versace—a black Swarovski bodysuit with a big white skirt. No one had worn it, and Donatella was excited about it. I thought, “The only person who can wear this dress is Natasha Poly.” I put it on her, and it was incredible. Liya Kebede in Proenza Schouler was another brave, incredible look, because it was something you normally wouldn’t see on the red carpet. Proenza did a beautiful job with that piece. What about favorite looks from ad campaigns or commercials? We did Jennifer Lopez in a corset by The Blonds for a product called Superstar. I wasn’t very familiar with The Blonds, but on film, that bodysuit was spectacular. I really love using a classic tuxedo—a smoking jacket. You can’t really go wrong with that. Are you still painting? Yes! I was a painter before I started working in fashion, and I’ve really gone back to that in the past year and a half. I had a show at World Trade Gallery last November, so when I’m not styling, I’m doing that. It’s kind of a full-circle thing. Back to basics!
ALL IMAGES COURTESY
I’LL DRINK TO THAT
Whether it’s a big celebration or, you know, a Tuesday, nothing beats champagne. For the past 10 years, Nicolas Feuillatte has been the No. 1–selling bubbly in France, delighting a country that knows a thing or two about enjoying luxury. Leading this impressive winery is managing director Julie Campos, who gives us the lowdown on the brand, plus her own tips for a good toast. BY SYDNEY SADICK PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHILIPPE MARTINEAU Which values define Nicolas Feuillatte? Nicolas Feuillatte is a people-driven Champagne, produced from the vineyards of almost 4,500 owner-growers by a tightly knit team at the winery. It’s based on simple human values of shared pleasure and celebration—one of life’s little luxuries to spoil yourself with, but produced with due regard to sustainable development on a social, environmental, and economic basis. Why do you think it’s the No. 1–selling champagne in France? France is by far the largest consumer of Champagne, accounting for a huge 53 percent of total volume produced. The French know what to expect and what they are looking for in a bottle of Champagne. For more than 25 years, Nicolas Feuillatte has tended to overperform on product quality and brand values, but at the same time offered consistent value, avoiding price hikes in the years of high global demand. The savvy shopper knows they will not be disappointed. At 40 years old, Nicolas Feuillatte is considered a young winery. What advantage do you have as a “newcomer”? The relative youthfulness of the Nicolas Feuillatte brand enables us to produce world-class Champagne without the inhibitions of the past. We benefit from the richness of the terroirs across the appellation and winemaking skills accumulated over hundreds of years, but with the best possible modern equipment and an open-minded attitude. Can you share the story behind the bespoke design of the Palmes d’Or bottle, your gorgeous tête-de-cuvée? We are extremely proud of our very special Palmes d’Or bottle—and, of course, of the exceptional Champagne inside! There have been several legends regarding the origins of the bottle, which was created in 1985 for the bottling of the first vintage, but basically we refer to our “black pearl” bottle as a piece of jewelry: precious packaging for the most precious and elegant of our cuvées. What’s the criteria for producing Palmes d’Or? Palmes d’Or is a careful blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir produced exclusively from a unique selection of Grand Cru vineyards, and only in vintages that show a remarkable combination of freshness, maturity, elegance, and power. If Nicolas Feuillatte were an article of clothing, what would it be? I would cite a good pair of well-cut jeans—or possibly a little black dress. Don’t ask me why, but that’s what comes to mind. Something universal, but special at the same time. How is winemaking like fashion? Each Champagne house has its own style, as do the famous fashion houses. If we imagined Nicolas Feuillatte as a fashion house, we’d be inspired by Jean Paul Gaultier, Stella McCartney, or Kenzo. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Drinking champagne should be about an experience shared with others, a special moment.”
What makes them inspirational? In part because they have been highly successful newcomers, challenging the more established global fashion houses. This is similar to the position of Nicolas Feuillatte in the world of Champagne. But also because of their audacity in differentiation—serious players, but with seriously new ideas in terms of fashion. You’ve collaborated with fashion brands around the world. We have worked with Denis Gagnon in Quebec, and with Moods of Norway, as well as Imane Ayissi from Cameroun, but we keep our eyes and ears open! Why is it important for Nicolas Feuillatte to align itself with the fashion crowd? It’s more a natural affinity, like an echo of what our brand is doing in a totally different field. We are both essentially creating an ongoing—and, we hope, stimulating—dialogue with our consumers. When is the best time to drink champagne? Drinking Champagne should be about an experience shared with others, a special moment. It could be on an ordinary city rooftop with friends, an improvised picnic in the park, or a candlelit supper in the kitchen! Where should one never drink champagne? Nowhere I can think of… What are the key ingredients to making a toast? Capturing the moment and the full attention of the crowd for a very short but memorable time, and using the values associated with Champagne to draw attention to the exceptional. A toast must be short, to the point, and appeal to the emotions.
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SELLING POINT
Pamela Drucker Mann, the powerhouse chief revenue officer behind Bon Appétit and Epicurious, within The Food Innovation Group, has taken the culinary-meets-culture glossy into a new era with the biggest September issue in the past seven years. It helps that the brand boasts an audience of 69 million across its many platforms. We caught up with Drucker Mann in her Condé Nast office to find out how the mother of three is making it all work. BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
You started out in publishing as an editor. How did you transition to the business side? I was an editor for six years. I was one of two editors at Jump magazine, who was in the New York office where there were all these ad sales folks, so I was the editor they always took out on calls. I just remember going out on these calls with these sales people and thinking that they weren’t very good at talking about the brand or articulating what is so amazing about the brand. When they gave me room to talk, I was very comfortable talking to clients. I remember the associate publisher at the time saying to me, “Have you ever thought about doing sales?” I said, “Absolutely not.” At the time, I just saw a very clear divide between the sales people and the edit people. I thought our upbringings were different. But when she said that to me, I felt interested in it, but I wasn’t ready to admit to myself that I was a closeted sales person. Then Jump folded and the person that had been running that magazine was going to run Tiger Beat, Teen Beat, and Bop on the sales side and said, “I don’t know if you’ve thought about it, but I would love to offer you this junior sales position if you’re interested.” At that time I was a senior associate editor, so I accepted, but I didn’t tell anybody, not even my friends. I also went from being a senior associate editor to being a junior sales person and making double the salary. Were you a total natural? I was a total natural, but here’s the thing: My parents owned a sales and marketing company growing up, which, of course, is why I didn’t want to go into sales. At the dinner table, they would be talking about strategy and this and that, so I kind of wanted to do anything but that. Like most kids I wanted to rebel. My brother actually started out on the sales side and is now a senior correspondent at the Washington Examiner. He started out on the sales side thinking he wanted to be just like his dad. I didn’t want to be on the sales side, because I didn’t want to be like my dad, and it turns out I’m more like my dad than he is. We made an even swap. When you joined Bon Appétit, were you interested in the food world? I’ve been a foodie my whole life, but I’m selective about what I cook. I like to cook breakfast, and I have three one-hit wonders that impress people and make it seem like I’m a natural. I do love to make cocktails. I can make a mean Negroni, a French 75, and a martini on the rocks only. I grew up in L.A. at a time when food culture was a big thing. My dad was big into restaurants, so we would spend our weekends trying new restaurants. We would even listen to restaurant critics on the radio. My mom is a massive gourmet cook, and she used to host these really lavish dinner parties. So I got my love for eating from my mom and my love for exploring food from my dad. When you and editor-in-chief Adam Rapoport came on board, what was the brand strategy? The brand had been around for 61 years and had a tremendous amount of equity. There’s something very sexy about food and restaurants and having awesome dinner parties—even cooking for Thanksgiving can be really cool. But there was nothing sexy or cool about epicurean. Adam came from GQ and I had spent five years at Glamour, so we were both on the same page right away—that we wanted this brand to be about food through the lens of design, travel, and home. Contextually, it wasn’t about less recipes. We never cut down on the recipes—we just added content and context. If you’re learning how to make amazing Mediterranean food, then it’s about reading it through the lens of an awesome, beautiful story on Greece. Our September issue is our restaurant issue, and it’s about the top-10
best restaurants in America. There’s recipe content through all of that, but what people notice first is who is the No. 1 restaurant in America. So whether you love to cook or just go out and eat, we wanted to create a brand for people who love food. I think what Adam did for the brand was really pioneering. The idea that a story about food could be edgy, cool, and beautiful and have an intersection with pop culture is something that wasn’t really happening before. What is the rapport like between you and Adam? We have a natural chemistry in the sense that we have a mutual respect for each other. When they approached me about this opportunity, Bon Appétit was really not what I was expecting as my first publisher gig, but they kept telling me I had to meet Adam and that we would really get along. I felt like it was an arranged marriage. But it was very natural right away. We have very similar personalities. We both realized right away that we wanted to do something different with this brand and in the five years of working with him, I’ve never secondguessed any of his editorial decisions. When I look at our Instagram feed, I’m like, This looks awesome. I always feel that way. I can’t say that’s a common feeling I’ve had at any other brand, even though I
When you joined Bon Appétit, there was not much of a digital component. Was that a big learning curve? I can’t even remember what it felt like before, because it’s so much a part of everything we’re doing right now. I think it’s really interesting to have watched the industry and consumers and how their interest in digital content has changed. One of the stories I love to tell is that we were hosting this little Oscar party in Williamsburg and we had all these millennials there, and at the end of the night we were handing out these gift bags and this twentysomething said, “Oh, I just love Bon Appétit. This is the first time I’ve ever seen the magazine. I live for your Instagram feed.” That was her access to the brand. But the whole thing happened naturally. Now we are part of this bigger business at Condé Nast called the Food Innovation Group, and our digital business has really become a huge part of what we’re doing. We’re shooting so much more video content, and social is a huge part of it. You’ve had a surprising amount of fashion advertisers. How did you bring them in? Again, this was pretty organic. If you think about people who love food culture it’s not like a one-
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The idea that a story about food could be edgy, cool, and beautiful and have an intersection with pop culture is something that wasn’t really happening before.”
loved those brands and worked hard for them. Do you think that’s why you’ve been able to really sell this product so well? Oh, yeah. It’s because I believe in what we’re doing and I’m proud of what we’re doing. It’s a lot of fun. I mean, it’s food, so it’s hard to take it so seriously. Our style, in a sense, is not styled. It has to look like something that’s sitting on the table that you just made and want to eat. In a lot of food magazines, there were no crumbs, no dirty knife, but the point is that it looks like something that isn’t contrived. And by the way, that’s what makes it look appetizing. What’s the Bon Appétit culture like? Whether it’s the ad side or the edit side, everyone here is really living the life. On Fridays, we bring in chefs and we have music and cocktails and hang out in the BA kitchen. It’s not hard to rally everyone to come eat some great fried chicken from Root & Bone.
dimensional audience. If you go to the new Clocktower restaurant that’s in Madison Park or go check out Santina or go check out Claudette, you will see super fashionable people who love food. These are the people who are going to work and caring about what they are wearing or the watch on their wrist—they want to be the first to get into the latest restaurant. It all comes together. It’s that story that we brought back to our advertisers, and many of those people that I am in those meetings with are asking, “Okay, where can I go to dinner tonight? Can you help me get a reservation?” They’re living the life, too, so it wasn’t hard to convince them that this was a world that belonged together. We do “Feast or Fashion” in our September issue, which is about bringing designers and chefs together. If you think about Fashion Week itself, yes, it’s about going to the shows, but it’s also about the designers and where
they’re hosting their after-parties. How did Feast or Fashion come about? So much of the content and chatter around New York Fashion Week is the new restaurants, so we took over the idea of owning the night. It turned out that these designers really wanted to work with us, because they were looking for that experience anyway. What chefs do and what designers do is very similar in that they change every season—it’s relevant, it’s trendy. There’s such a crossover. The first year we brought the guys from Rag & Bone together with Frankies 457 Sputino and created this really cool experience for them. What is your own personal style like? I can start by telling you what I don’t like. I don’t wear dresses. I’m very decisive about the no’s. I love going to Barneys and taking over a private space and having a rack of clothes and working with someone who knows my sizes. People who are new to fashion don’t understand why designers actually matter. They really have a defined look and the fit is so important. There are five designers who I know will fit me without having to try them on. Who are those designers? Alexander Wang, for sure. Isabel Marant, I love. Also Rag & Bone, Helmut Lang, Stella McCartney—I’m a tomboy at heart, but I like to wear pretty clothes, so it’s a combination of that. It’s important to wear something that makes you feel like yourself. But with shoes, I will go above and beyond. How many pairs of shoes do you own? Like a million. With shoes I feel like I can be really daring. I’m not as loyal to specific brands with shoes. Accessories are just different. I’m more playful with those. How do you wear heels all day long? I don’t know. I just love the way they feel and the way they look, maybe because it makes me feel taller. At what point did you feel like it was necessary to hire a stylist? I thought it was necessary a long time ago! I just couldn’t afford it. Working in a more corporate job, I felt I needed something more defined. I was ready to come out of my comfort zone a little bit. It really helped me curate my look. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
How did you meet your stylist Lisa von Weise? Her name was brought up to me and she was doing work at Vogue, which was convenient because she’s right in the building. We met and I just liked her vibe. She got me right away. I trust her. We’ve been working together for four years, and she’s definitely made me look better. This year’s September issue is very big! This is the biggest September issue we’ve had in terms of paging and revenue in 7 years, and it’s the biggest issue we’ve had while I’ve been here. It’s a big countdown moment for everyone who wants to know what the No. 1 restaurant is. It’s very digital and very social. If you look at the mix of business that we bring in for September, it’s completely different than most people would have thought. The least amount of advertising we carry is about food, by the way. You have three kids under the age of 5. How do you do it all? Mostly I don’t think about it. I take it from day to day, and I have a great life. I have a beautiful family and three beautiful kids. I do feel overwhelmed sometimes, but these are all things that I wanted. I should also say that I have a lot of help. What is your schedule like? I wake up at six to the sound of my 13-monthold, who is banging his pacifier against his crib and that follows with my three-and-a-half-yearold, who is ready to get out of bed…I have three boys, so it usually is the big struggle of getting everyone out of bed and ready for the day so I can get myself ready in the morning. It’s really hard when my wife is out of town, because then it’s all on me, so we really divide and conquer a lot. But we have a really regimented routine about how we make it all happen. I have a great assistant, who literally keeps me in check. It’s all about prioritizing and balance. Is your wife’s schedule as busy as yours? She works right across the street at Goldman Sachs, so we kind of argue about whose job is the priority sometimes and who has more stress. We’re both so busy we just try and figure out who has the least busy day and then one of us takes on something extra. It’s kind of crazy, but we laugh about it and it works somehow.
A Moment With…Lisa Von Weise Shaw Pamela Drucker Mann’s stylist Lisa Von Weise Shaw has a roster of powerful women as clients that she keeps looking chic, from the boardroom to the event circuit and beyond. How did you start working with Pamela? A friend of mine is actually her interior decorator, Cindy Greene. We are old friends and she was redoing their place in Park Slope and passed on my name. Do you have many private clients? I think Pam was my second or third private client. I had always been styling for editorial up until five or six years ago. I started styling for private clients once I learned the genius of working one-on-one with an amazing woman without any noise from advertising agencies or publicists or even photographers. It was just straight to the woman. When I started doing it, it was like lightbulbs went off everywhere. I thought, Why didn’t I think of this sooner? Now I have about 20 clients. How did you get in the business? I moved to New York right after I graduated from Boston University’s College of Communications in 1988. Barneys was flying really, really high then and I was just enamored by their advertising. I called them up in late August and they were about to get hit with Fashion Week, so they said, “Come on over.” I started working there as an assistant in advertising and public relations, and we worked on fashion shows and parties and those great campaigns with Doug Lloyd and Neal Craft. Did you always want to work in fashion? I thought I was going to be in public relations or advertising, but fashion is a very seductive sport, so it didn’t take too long until I decided that was a much more interesting side of the business. Then I went to Elle magazine and I was a retail editor there, and then after a few years I went freelance as a stylist. I’m represented by the agency Marek & Associates now. How would you describe Pamela’s personal style? Pam is fearless. She’s really, really fun to pull for. First of all, she has the figure, the looks, and the personality to pull off the fearlessness, but also she’s unapologetic. She’s never thinking, “Is this appropriate?” She doesn’t have to fall into some preconceived notion of what a publisher should be or any of that. It’s really liberating. Does she always know what she wants? She has a very strong gut reaction to everything, so oftentimes before she even tries it on she’ll say, “Yes, no, yes, no” in rapid fire and I’m thinking, “Wait a minute! You have to try it on!” But ultimately she’s right on. Do you work only with women? I do work with men, but most of my clients are women. I think women have so many more physical demands on them when it comes to their wardrobe. It just never, ever ends. Even if you do a really big shopping trip and you think you’re done, you’re never really done. DRUCKER MANN: GIORGIO NIRO; ALL OTHERS COURTESY
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FEST! Adam Rapoport and Rosie Assoulin share their specialties
CREATURE COMFORTS Eating In with Christine Muhlke, Rachel Comey, Shane Gabier, and Christopher Peters T h e D a i l y f r o n T r o w • fa s h i o n w e e k D a i l y. c o m
PLUS!
A 6-YEAR-OLD REVIEWS LE BERNARDIN
s Fea t Fix
Wylie Dufresne
Bill Telepan
Ignacio Mattos
Ice cream flavor inspiration? Absolutely!
Dan Kluger
WHICH RESTOS MADE THE #BAHOT10 LIST? AL’S PLACE, San Francisco GJUSTA, Los Angeles PETIT TROIS, Los Angeles SEMILLA, Brooklyn PARACHUTE, Chicago DAI DUE, Austin KINDRED, Davidson, NC RINTARO, San Francisco MANOLIN, Seattle MILKTOOTH,, Indianapolis
Rosie Assoulin
Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo
Animal in Los Angeles
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
TABLE FOR VOUS, P VOUS PLEASE! LEASE SE! SE E! ☛ Another September, another delightful
Rachel Comey
lineup of events courtesy of Bon Appétit’s Feast or Fashion. On Wednesday night, Rachel Comey hosted her fashion presentation with chef Ignacio Mattos and the Estela team; the menu was inspired by her Spring ’16 collection and charmed the attendees at Pioneer Works. ☛ Yesterday, Bon Appétit welcomed both industry insiders and consumers to The Hot 10 party at Seaport Studios. Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Joe Campanale, Wylie Dufresne, Dan Kluger, Nicholas Morgenstern, Ivan Orkin, Gabriel Stulman, Alex Stupak, Bill Telepan, and Michael White were on hand for the festivities. ☛ This afternoon, it’s a pairing of No. 1s as CFDA Award winner Rosie Assoulin and Chef Aaron London from the No. 1 Best New Restaurant 2015 team with Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo from Animal in L.A. to host a lunch alongside Assoulin’s collection showing. ☛ On Wednesday, Lauren Bush Lauren and Chef Michael Anthony from Untitled at the Whitney conclude Bon Appétit Presents Feast or Fashion with the kickoff for the FEED supper series at the BA Kitchen at 1 World Trade Center.
SCENTED BLISS!
OddFellows Ice Cream Co. dreamed up flavors inspired by ETERNITY NOW Calvin Klein. The homage to the men’s scent is cedar-scented vanilla with candied ginger and grapefruit; the women’s iteration is peach blossom–scented lychee with quince swirl. Anyone who purchases a flavor at its Manhattan or Brooklyn locations gets a free sample of the fragrance. oddfellowsnyc.com
Lauren Bush Lauren
Michael Anthony
ARE YOUR RESYS READY? Distraught by your failed attempts to secure tables at the city’s hautest spots? Bon Appétit and Resy to the rescue. The food world’s favorite magazine and app have partnered to help you secure “Hot Tables” around town (available until September 15) and provide exclusive access to curated menus. Book your spot at bahot10.com or download the Resy App.
ON THE COVER: O OVER: Adam Rapoport and Rosie Assoulin Photographed by Giorgio Niro.
B FA N YC . C O M ( 5 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 3 ) ; ALL OTHERS COURTESY
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bon appétit
À La Mode We caught up with Bon Appétit’s editor-in-chief Adam Rapoport and New York’s latest “It” designer Rosie Assoulin at Tribeca’s chic Greenwich Hotel to find out how they make a statement on the table, the runway, and at the office. A little pasta, anyone? BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
You both have fashion backgrounds. Are you particular about table settings? Rosie Assoulin: It depends. If it’s morning and you’re having eggs, you’re just happy. But if you’re entertaining and having a party, it’s important. Adam Rapoport: Oh, it’s hugely important. Coming from the magazine world, everything has to be distilled into a lesson, so if you’re going to have flowers on the table, make sure they’re low so you can see across the table. You see that a lot in weddings—it’s like, Who put the four-foot flowers in front of me? Rosie: It’s so true. I did events for a while and I learned that the hard way. Some people who want to get that height will put them on the corner of the long table. Adam: But yeah, low flowers, and you can never have too many votive candles. They create a nice glow but are also unobtrusive.
Rosie: Two types of lighting: sunlight or candlelight—nothing else for an event. Adam: Or obviously, dim your lights. Tablescaping that runs along the table length-wise is also fun during holidays like Thanksgiving. It’s cool to get fall fruits, vegetables, and branches to lie on the table. That’s pretty badass, but you probably have to take it off the table when the food comes. You also want to have cool napkins. But they should be like jeans, where they’re soft and pleasing to the touch. Rosie: You also want it to look beautiful and thoughtful without feeling overdone. It becomes sort of cheesy. Adam, you treat your covers the same way: enticing but not overdone. Adam: Our creative director, Alex Grossman, had that vision when we relaunched the magazine five years ago—to be real, but not too real; messy, but not too messy. It should be the perfect version of the bowl of spaghetti you’d make on a Thursday night. Alex usually wants it a little more half-eaten than I like. And it’s not just about how the food is styled, but the props too. They inform the point of view and the personality of the shoot in the same way that fashion does, and that’s where I think that food and fashion are very similar: the accessories. Table propping is like the accessorizing of the food world. Rosie: Everybody wants a white T-shirt and everybody wants a slice of pizza, but sometimes you want something new and to taste something totally different that you haven’t tasted before. Adam: Yeah, there are those times you want to try something new and different for the sake of novelty. Also, food can be beautiful visually in the way that fashion is. For your upcoming collection, Rosie, if you had to match the aesthetic of the clothes to a meal, what would it be? Rosie: It’s easier to talk about the last collection. It was a little bit tropical, kind of where you want to go and travel to. Maybe a little bit Cuban? Maybe it was a fun meal in Cuba. Adam: We do a feature on our website that I love called “Fashion Plates,” where we match runway looks from Fashion Week with dishes in our recipe archive. It was amazing to see how shimmering silver trays of anchovies and sardines were similar to a shimmery silver dress. It’s very trippy. Rosie: On Instagram, food and fashion are the two most popular things. When you look at that stuff, it feels consuming. Adam: I think they’re the most evocative subjects on Instagram. Food I can bite into right now, and fashion, you want to buy it! What Instagram handles do you follow? Rosie: I follow Eyeswoon, Athena Calderone’s Instagram. She’s a fashion foodie. Adam: Frank Muytjens at J.Crew, the menswear designer. He has a beautiful house upstate where he cooks, bakes, and gardens. William Lee at Ralph Lauren. He too has a beautiful home. With the amount that he eats I’m shocked what he can fit into at Ralph Lauren. Rosie: I really like people’s travel and food pictures. Together they’re very compelling. Not only do I want to eat that, but I want to be there eating that. Adam: Looking at shots—the travel clothes, plates you choose, and how you photograph it—is amazing. People literally stand up and hover just about to fall off buildings to get that overhead table shot. Rosie: Sometimes it feels more real, though, when it’s not so styled. I want Bon Appétit’s styled photo, but not someone else’s. Both of you are the faces of your brands—do you feel pressure to always look good? Adam: Not in the summertime. I’ve been wearing a lot of T-shirts to work. When it’s 92 degrees on the subway platform, it’s like, screw it. Having worked at GQ for 10 years, I still enjoy putting on a tie and a cool jacket with sneakers and jeans. One reason I enjoyed working at GQ is because I believed in it—when we dress well, we feel better. Rosie: I agree. There’s so little in our life that’s still formal. It’s nice to care. Not every day, but you do feel better. It’s also respectful to people around you. But I love sweatpants, too. What fashion trend do you want to see die? Adam: I get really annoyed in the fall when dudes will wear the knit caps and keep it on in the
restaurant. I’m like, You’re inside, take it off. I always want to grab it off their head. Rosie: I don’t like saying never. Never say never. The more imposed you are by something, you can end up being more drawn to it. What about food? Adam: I’m sick of people who are anti-kale. Just because it’s good, don’t hate it. Rosie: I might be over things with little tiny spoons. I was into it for a while, but unless I’m at a Japanese restaurant, I’m over it. Sometimes there are a million spoons at parties for no reason. Adam: I’m against the overly precious mixology cocktails. It takes 23 minutes to make the drink. It’s like, “Can I just get a drink?” I have an ongoing argument with our events director. I say anytime we have a Bon Appétit party, no specialty cocktails. It can be in a pitcher, but if it requires a guy to light something on fire, no. You guys work so far in advance. Are you tired of the collection or the magazine issue by the time it comes out? Adam: Between the time we ship the issue to print, we’ve looked at those pages so many days for weeks, so when it goes out the door I don’t want to see it again for another month. But when the real issue comes, I’m like, Oh, wow. This is great. I remember that. I missed you! Rosie: Same. Right after the show I need a minute. But we do our market week and I get to see it all over again. You don’t really get to take it in and see it all together until that moment, which is magical, so you savor it. Do you do a post-fashion show meal with your team? Rosie: We try to! We skipped last season. We’ve done a few before. It feels good. It’s cathartic. Adam: I’m taking out my photo and art team tonight for our September issue, which is our big restaurant issue. They worked really hard to get it out the door. I was thinking of a barbecue-style restaurant, but my creative director reminded me that a few people are vegetarian, one only eats raw, another is gluten-free, so we’re going to Dimes. During those hectic times, do you stress eat? Rosie: Everybody does! Sometimes you’re so stressed, though, that you don’t eat. When you’re eating your anxiety, that’s one thing, but when you’re truly stressed and not eating, that’s a whole other thing. Adam: I don’t eat much during the day. When I’m working, eating slows me down. I drink a lot of coffee with a shot of espresso, like two a day. French fries are the one thing I can’t stop eating. If you put a mountain of French fries in front of me, I’ll eat them. Rosie: For me, sometimes it’s challah. Sometimes it’s ricey stuff, like sushi or Indian food. Rice with sauce and beans or string beans is my comfort food. Rosie, what’s your inspiration for Spring? Rosie: We’re doing some lacing and interesting things with the idea of swimsuits. Cut-outs that are interesting. What’s your favorite look from your last collection? Rosie: I didn’t get a chance to wear it yet, but I loved the suit that we did. It reads a little more menswear. I can see myself taking it to so many places in my life. If the Rosie Assoulin woman were going to a restaurant, which would it be? Adam: Well, the woman is chic. Rosie: Yeah, but she’s laughing at herself too. It’s about friends coming together. She’s upbeat and wants to celebrate. I really love hotel restaurants. Locanda Verde’s great. I like Little Park too. I hear you’re a great cook, Rosie. Rosie: I love cooking…and eating. I’m Jewish and Syrian, so we do Middle Eastern food. I’ll make rice and lentils with red onions, a Lebanese staple, two nights a week for my kids with this spinach tart and a yogurt-cucumber-mint sauce. That’s how I grew up. Adam: I’m coming over! Adam, we hear you have a cottage on the North Fork. What do you cook up out there? Adam: There are amazing farm stands. The better the ingredients, the less you have to do. It’s the two months of the year where you can eat so simply. Your only goal, basically, is to not screw it up! My signature dish is steak. I’m kind of like the meat whisperer of the Bon Appétit staff. I have a way with all things meat. GETTY IMAGES (2)
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Testing Grounds Fashion designers Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters of Creatures of the Wind and Rachel Comey joined executive editor Christine Muhlke in Bon Appétit’s test kitchen for an eclectic tasting of lamb meatballs, collard greens, s’mores, and much more. In between bites, they dished on Fashion Week diets and dream dinner guests. Eat your heart out! BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MELANIE DUNEA/CPI What’s a normal work lunch for you? Shane Gabier: We eat a lot of sushi and a lot of Japanese food in general. Christopher Peters: We also eat a lot of Korean food. Our offices are right next to K-Town. And we eat at Hu Kitchen, the paleo place. Rachel Comey: We eat a lot of Korean food at our offices, too. Sometimes I just eat peanut butter and jelly. I eat at Miss Lily’s a lot, because they are fast. I usually order by speed. When we order Korean, I’ll often order for the whole office, because we get those lettuce wraps. Christine, how do you do tastings every day and maintain your slim figure? Christine Muhlke: I don’t really eat dinner anymore, because the tastings are at 3 p.m. every day. I also bike to work every day from the West Village. It’s like a free spin class every morning. Everyone at Bon FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Appétit, except for me, goes to the gym. I used to go to Equinox and I would have to check with the rest of the staff to make sure they weren’t going, too, because who wants to work out in front of their colleagues? Shane: But I feel like normal gym etiquette is to just not acknowledge anyone else there. They could be naked next to you in the locker room and you just pretend you’re the only one there. As a foodie, do you miss going out to eat? Christine: It’s actually kind of liberating. I have a 2-yearold, so I don’t go out for dinner anymore anyway. As designers, what do you eat during Fashion Week? Shane: We usually eat really healthy, just like when we are in the office. Christopher: We usually eat vegan that week.
Shane: We’ve never ordered a bunch of pizzas or anything like that. Christopher: We order a lot of Souen. We get their macrobiotic plates. When it gets to be crunch time and we know we are going to be working for 12 hours and not going to the gym, we start eating super healthy. Rachel: I eat the same stuff I normally do, but maybe with more chocolate—definitely a lot of chocolate and coffee. Christine: You should do a collaboration with Mast Brothers Chocolate. Rachel: They already have such nice packaging— I’m not sure I could help them!
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We eat really healthy during Fashion Week—just like when we’re in the office.” —Shane Gabier
What do you serve backstage at your shows? Christopher: Our show is at noon, so the girls are arriving at 8 a.m., so we usually get things like yogurt and fruit. Shane: But Rachel, the food is very much a part of your shows. Christine: You always do a dinner as part of the experience of your show. Rachel: Yes, but backstage we usually order catering from Whole Foods and sometimes we have pizza. Christine: My husband, Oliver Strand, used to cater Fashion Week for shows like Tuleh and J.Mendel. He used to handmake everything.
From this tasting, would you ever make anything you’ve tried today at home? Shane: I would do the lamb meatballs and broccolini for sure. Christopher: The collard greens were really good! That’s the thing that I would like to eat at home, but not actually make. I would like them to just appear in my house. Rachel: I might make the lamb meatballs or the s’mores for a festive occasion. I liked the bánh mì sandwich with the dipping sauce—that’s the one I'd like to magically appear at my house. Christine: When you're working on your show, are you conscious about what the guests might want to eat? Rachel: I think about the guests a little bit, but I also think about the season, the time of year, and the occasion. I have to think about the balance of showing the clothes, which is the point of it all, and also having a nice experience, a pleasant dinner, and nice conversation. Christopher: That’s what’s really exciting about what you do. So much of Fashion Week is about going to see the shows and, even if it is a beautiful experience, it feels kind of mechanical and repetitive. It’s nice to have an experience where you can enjoy it and reflect and absorb it more. It’s pretty special. Rachel, when did you start doing the dinners that accompany your shows? Rachel: About three years ago. The first season we did the dinner and show at Pioneer Works [in Brooklyn], and we’ve been doing it there ever since. It’s such a lovely space, and it’s nice to get out of Manhattan. Shane and Christopher, what do you do for your post-show dinners? Shane: Last September, we rented out Dimes and we took our entire team. We had about 26 people. Christine: Wow, that’s a lot for Dimes. Rachel, you will be doing a dinner with Bon Appétit and Estela’s chef, Ignacio Mattos. How did you meet Ignacio? Christine: Rachel met Ignacio at a butter tasting that my husband was doing. Christopher: A butter tasting? Christine: He was making butter and doing a tasting for a story he was doing for Vogue,
so he took over a coffee bar one morning and invited people he thought would enjoy it, and so Ignacio and Rachel came and they actually met there. Rachel: It was really fun. We tried out the different butters on bread. Christine: We also passed around the jars and had everyone shake them until it turned into butter.
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I love food and eating, but I feel like ‘foodie’ is a derogatory term.”—Rachel Comey
Do any of you consider yourselves foodies? Christopher: I grew up in Ireland, and my father was a French chef. So yes, I always knew I cared about food. Eating is my favorite thing to do outside of fashion, but I wouldn’t say I was a foodie, maybe more of a food enthusiast. Shane: We spend a lot of time thinking about food and where and what we are going to eat next. Christopher: Every night when we’re eating dinner, we might actually be talking about what we’re going to be eating for dinner the next night. Everything is about planning the next meal, which is a little weird when you say it out loud. Rachel: I love food and eating too, but I feel like “foodie” is kind of a derogatory term. When I was visiting my dad a couple of weeks ago he told me, “You’re a foodie! You keep talking about food.” My dad's favorite thing to say is that he's lived his whole life without ever having kale. So I guess I’m a foodie…. I just don't love the word.
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My dream story is to make jam with Dries van Noten in his garden.” —Christine Muhlke
If you were a restaurant, which one would you be? Christine: I wish I could be Gjusta in Venice, California. It’s perfect. Everything is made in-house and so much goes into every bite, and aesthetically it’s just perfect, but it’s also really easy. Shane: We ate at Manfred & Vin in Copenhagen once, and it was super sophisticated but really simple. Christine: Rachel, what’s your spirit restaurant? Rachel: I don’t know. I do like a potluck. Christopher: That’s a great answer! Christine, you have a fashion background. How did you end up in the food world? Christine: Being in food was always what I secretly wanted to do. I met [[Bon Appétit editor in chief] Adam [Rapoport] at a James Beard dinner 15 years ago when he was working on the James Beard newsletter and I was the managing editor at Paper. He was later the GQ style editor and I was a deputy editor at T magazine and the food editor for the New York Times Magazine, so we both always had this parallel track. Food is pure pleasure and is about curiosity. So it just seemed like a really amazing way to stay curious and really love what you do for the rest of your life. Do you have any industry friends that you are always dining with? Shane: We go out with Pamela Love a lot. Rachel: I go to dinner a lot with Brian Molloy, the stylist. We always see each other over meals. Shane: We meet Mark Holgate for sushi usually. We always go to the same place, Hasaki on East Ninth Street.
TASTING MENU
French Toast Turkey Brunch Sandwich Turkey Pho Dip Creamed Greens Tartine with an Egg on Top Potato Dinner Rolls (from Guard and Grace in Denver) Pan Roasted Cauliflower with Panko and Parmesan (from Girl & the Goat in Chicago) Kale BLT Salad (from Sweet Chick in New York City) Charred Spring Onion and Togarashi Butter Lamb Scottadito with Cherry Tomatoes Grilled Kielbasa Tacos BA Best Lemonade and Blueberry Muffins BA Best S’mores These recipes will appear in the November 2015 and June 2016 issues; the BA Best recipes can be found at bonappetit.com.
Who would be your dream dinner guests? Christine: I would love to have dinner with Colette. I visited her house, which is a museum now, in Burgundy, and she was just amazing. One of my dream stories, which I’m still going to make happen, damn it, is to make jam with Dries van Noten in his garden outside of Antwerp…or Iggy Pop, whichever one comes first. Christopher: I like Iggy Pop. That would be good! Shane: We’ve been trying to have dinner with one friend for, like, four months, so I guess having dinner with her would actually be my fantasy dinner guest!
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bon appétit
GOOD TASTE Julep Knowlton—the precocious, trilingual daughter of Bon Appétit’s deputy editor, Andrew Knowlton—dons a critic’s hat for a lavish meal at Le Bernardin. Watch out, Eric Ripert: This one tells it like it is. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEFANIA CURTO
Julep Knowlton’s favorite food is pork belly; she prefers Chablis over Champagne, and when she goes to Le Bernardin, she’s not embarrassed to tell chef Eric Ripert the salmon was undercooked. Oh, and she’s 6 years old. The daughter of Bon Appétit’s Andrew Knowlton, Julep has a very different relationship with food than most first-graders. Her favorite restaurants? Not Shake Shack or Serendipity, but Vietnamese noodle shop Nightingale 9 and carnivore palace Prime Meats, both in her Carroll Gardens, New York, neighborhood. Earlier this year, Julep joined her dad on a culinary tour of Philadelphia and Washington, D.C., while he was researching spots for his annual America’s Best New Restaurants list (on stands now). She devoured potato gnocchi at Townsend and a bacon and egg cream dessert at Abe Fisher in Philly, and gold leaf ice cream at Rose’s Luxury
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and shio ramen at Daikaya Ramen in D.C. The highlight of her trip, though, may have been looking at the White House from her hotel room window while eating room service in bed. During her days restaurant hopping, Julep picked up some review tactics from her dad, so we enlisted her to review a meal at one of New York’s finest restaurants, Le Bernardin. She took to her critic role like caviar takes to crème fraîche. Which is to say, naturally. (And yes, in case you’re wondering, she loves caviar.) Unlike most critics, though, she didn’t keep her identity a secret—Chef Ripert gave her a tour of the restaurant and kitchen, and the trilingual tot even conversed with him in French. Finally, she and her dad sat down to eat. “I think we had the best seat in the restaurant,” Julep says, who sported a Kate Spade dress and bag for the occasion. “That’s what Papa said.”
LE BERNARDIN, New York, NY Reviewed by Julep Knowlton, age 6 AMUSE-BOUCHE
SECOND COURSE
Chef’s version of Croque Monsieur with smoked salmon, Gruyère, and caviar: “It was delicious! The best sandwich I ever had. I liked the bread, the caviar, and the salmon. It was cooked perfectly. And I liked the smoky flavor. A two-bite miracle.” Poached lobster with sweet pea puree: “I thought I liked lobster, but I think I confused it with crab.” Carrot and ginger soup with a wasabi cracker: “It was not hot, not cold, it was medium. I liked it. I didn’t love it, but I liked it. It was so-so. The green wasabi cracker was kind of spicy. The soup was orange.” Jamón ibérico: “I loved it. The best I’ve had in my entire life. It was just perfect. Kind of salty, but not too much. I want more right now!”
Lacquered lobster tail, herb spring roll, lemongrass consommé: “I didn’t like it. Lobster is just not my thing.”
FIRST COURSE Oysters: “I didn’t like that they were attached to the shell. I didn’t know how to get the oysters out. My dad had to get them out. I didn’t really like them and I usually love oysters. I ate 12 in one day in Maine, and I could have eaten more.”
THIRD COURSE Salmon with a snowpea shitakematsutake dashi: “I didn’t like the salmon, but I liked the broth. The fish was undercooked, but I think Chef Ripert likes it that way.”
DESSERT “The Egg,” aka chocolate pot de crème: “It was good. Very rich.” Ginger-scented melon “bomb,” passion fruit macaron: “It had fruit inside, fruit on the side, and smoothie inside. I really liked this.” Elderflower-scented strawberries, crème fraîche panna cotta, frozen strawberry snowflakes: “This was interesting…it had little squiggly things that look like worms. But they were not worms. They tasted like strawberries.” Tasting of sorbet and ice cream including vanilla, raspberry, lime basil, and dulce de leche: “I liked the raspberry the best.” Taste of Chablis: “I kind of liked it, but it made me dizzy.”
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bon appétit
THE THRILL OF THE HUNT
When Bon Appétit senior editor Julia Kramer hopscotches across the country to suss out the latest resto trends, she fills her downtime with a different kind of quest: vintage shopping. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV PHOTOGRAPHY BY MELANIE DUNEA
What do vintage shopping and restaurant scouring have in common? Both are questions of taste. Thousands of restaurants open every year, and [Bon Appétit restaurant and drinks editor] Andrew [Knowlton] and I are trying to find a few diamonds in the mine. In that sense, vintage shopping is similar. But vintage shopping is a reprieve from dining for me—I’m so on when I’m in a restaurant. How did your cross-country vintage scouring come about? This year I worked very closely with Andrew to scout restaurants for our Hot 10 and food trend lists, so I basically spent two months on the road. I was a restaurant critic in Chicago for five years, so I’m very accustomed to going out to eat every night, but I’ve never done it on this scale—just dropping into Dallas for one night and then being in another state the next. I was trying to pack in as many meals as possible. I’d wake up, go to a bakery for breakfast, have two lunches, and start my dinners at 5 p.m. Between meals, I could either exercise, which I occasionally did—or I could go vintage shopping, which is one of my favorite things to do. It’s not as fun in New York because everything is so picked over and expensive. Which cities were you most excited to hit? I really felt it was important that we went to Detroit, and I really wanted to go to Indianapolis— since I’m from the Midwest, I don’t see it as a flyover place. What kinds of resto trends did you see during your travels? Tons of rabbit and lots of smoked stuff. Smoked whipped cream, smoked egg yolks, smoked whatever! It was also surprising to see a bunch of Hawaiian restaurants popping up. It seems like the least likely cuisine to become cool. How did you pack for such a trip? As a child, if we were going away for 10 days, each person was
allowed to bring only a backpack, so I naturally travel really light. Jumpsuits make that really easy. How many do you own? Ten, but I have a moratorium on them. I wore a white silk jumpsuit for my wedding, which was a really affordable version of a wedding dress. I also found an orange vintage Diane von Furstenberg jumpsuit for $12. I didn’t realize it when I bought it, but I guess it looks like a prison uniform. One day when I wore it in New York, some guy on the street yelled, “Orange is the new black!” Did you give yourself a shopping limit before hitting the road? Oh, if only! I have way too much stuff. Whenever I go home to my parents’ house in the suburbs of Chicago, I bring a suitcase of clothes. I’m a hoarder. I can’t get rid of anything. Where did you hit gold on the vintage-store circuit? I don’t have pierced ears, so I’m obsessed with clip-ons. In Portland, Maine, I stumbled into the most incredible vintage store that had tons of them. One pair was by this company called Kramer, and I had to buy them because that’s my last name. I also prefer the super weird stuff. I like every decade. But I’m literally the slowest vintage shopper ever. I was in that one store for an hour and a half just picking out earrings. Any other top cities for vintage scores? Connecticut has some really amazing vintage stores, and I also found a great one in Savannah. In Chicago, my favorite vintage store is called Tusk. It’s in the Logan Square neighborhood and is run by a good friend of mine. Where else did you do well? In Boston, at this crazy-looking Western store that had a live chicken out front, I found my No. 1 favorite thing on this entire trip: a fanny pack. I literally have not taken this off since I bought it. I wasn’t in the market for one— I was actually trying to find a vintage leather jacket.
From left: A Diane von Furstenberg jumpsuit and a vintage Hermès blouse; a Bicci Florine Wachter blazer from the ’80s and a Lancel scarf; vintage Bakelite bangles; a mirrored ring; Kramer’s signature clip-on earrings, found at a store in Maine.
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MARKET WATCH
If you think shopping for ingredients for your next dinner party is tough, you’ll be in awe of Bon Appétit’s test kitchen director, Brad Leone. His gig involves sourcing the best food— lobsters! Manchego! Rooster skin?—from the city’s best stores. We met up with the master shopper one morning at his seafood standby, the Lobster Place in Chelsea Market, to find out his secrets. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
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to Florence Meat Shop in the West Village—they have really Why are we at the Lobster Place? specific cuts. For the most part, this is where I get all the seafood in the How about cheese? magazine. They have really great seafood—and a really big We work Surprisingly, Whole Foods has a pretty awesome cheese selection! Plus, they’ll work with me. So if I need a special order, they get it in. with guest chefs from selection. Murray’s is great as well. What’s your preferred mode of transport? What’s been your weirdest request? all over the world. The subway. Though one of those little three-wheeled police A corvina. It’s a South American fish. They’ll ask for fresh enforcers is on the wish list. What’s on your shopping list today? seaweed, alligator What are the trickiest things to source? Baby squid and porgy. meat, rooster skin...” Sometimes we’ll work with guest chefs from all over the Do you usually shop in bulk? world—sourcing for them is a bit more of a challenge. Certain It depends on the story. We just did an outdoor cooking story that vinegars aren’t even available here. They’ll ask for fresh seaweed, or alligator needed big crab, lobsters, and two pounds of heads-on shrimp, clams, and meat, or rooster skin… mussels—and we’ll cook each recipe three or four times. And then each dish Rooster skin?! gets shot two or three times. Yeah—I had to find five pounds of it! Favorite fish? Where did you find that fresh seaweed? Bluefish! But I’m most excited when I catch it myself. Do you fish often? I have a guy in the Thimble Islands of Connecticut, at Thimble Island Oyster Co. I try to. I pretty much only do saltwater—I love getting sea robin, porgy, Oh, and I have a guy who grows microgreens in East Hampton at Good Water bluefish, and skate instead of just, like, snapper or grouper. I also like little bay Farms. He’s a hell of a farmer. fish, like smelt and sardines. What do you do when produce is out of season? Got any pointers for cooking fish? We cook four or five months in advance, so things are often out of season. Don’t overcook it and don’t overthink it! Less is more with fish. It already has I work with a guy in California, and sometimes I’ll order things from New plenty of flavor. Sometimes salt, pepper, and lemon does it all. Zealand, South America, or Australia. If you’re willing to pay, you can get What are your other secret spots around town? almost anything. Are you familiar with Kalustyan’s? If you ever need some kind of dry powder, What do you like to cook at home? spice, or blend, they have it. They’re worth a Saturday field trip. I’m a big soup guy; I make a great jambalaya. And I cook a mean steak. Where do you fetch meat? Do you eat out much? I like to support smaller butcher shops, like the Meat Hook. Sometimes I’ll go Yeah, I’m a sucker for a bowl of ramen. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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daily mail
PUBLICISTS in CRISIS:
(PART DEUX!)
What they really think about vous! To: (REDACTED) Cc: (My Assistant) Bcc: (All media: market editors, news reporters, stylists, broadcast producers) Hello! This is one of your favorite e-mails where I start off pretending to care how you are. What’s new?! Did you survive Paris? Pre-Fall? The Pines? I can’t wait to catch up!! In reality, I just want to get down to business. Like you want to receive another pitch from me, and like I want to send one? Please. I’m just trying to time your reply. Will it be 10 minutes? Two days? Or I will I still be waiting three months from now? First of all, I’m e-mailing you because the client is paying me to. Obviously. But secondly, I kinda thought we were friends? Am I crazy? Just last week I picked up dinner AND the bar bill…and we both know how many $16 glasses of Chenin Blanc you ordered. I could have called you for a bit of a throwback, but it’s not Tuesday or Thursday and I’m pretty certain it would go to voice mail or that you’d be on “deadline.” Click. If you ever do pick up and have time to talk, it’s too much of a surprise and I get flustered. I’m prepared for the voice mail, have my PR voice down, the message concise with a hint of mystery—the ultimate cat and mouse. No, I’m sticking with the e-mail. So anyway, I’m writing because I’m [hosting] [inviting] [pitching] [being told I must tell you about] the new [client] [collection] [press day] [fashion show] [cocktail party]. It is AMAZING!! (Help! They are making me write it in all caps and with excess exclamation points!) Will you respond? Don’t forget about drinks and dinner last week…and how I happily ordered you an UBER to Brooklyn. I’ve known you for [three] [five] [seven] years and [three] [five] [seven] agencies for me, magazines/websites for you. Doesn’t that count for something? It could just be a cold and quick reply. I don’t care if there are emoticons or exclamation points. I don’t care if you thank me for dinner. Because here’s the thing: I just have to tell my client. It’s the same as when you have to tell your [editor] [celebrity talent]. I have these [daily] [weekly] [monthly] calls and reports that I have to send to my client. And they depend on you actually responding to me. Having “awaiting reply” in my report is basically putting me at risk. Don’t I get back to you on your [sample request] [interview request] [editor’s discount] [friend discount] [family discount] in a timely manner? Trust me, this new celebrity foot sole line from the third runnerup from Big Brother 2011 is going to be HUGE. No, I know they are shoe inserts and won’t be seen, but here’s the genius thing: Just put the credit in…and you’ll get a free dinner. Again. Believe me, I get that your job is tough. Mine is too. I have hundreds of you e-mailing me at all times of day and night with “urgent” requests. I’m not going to send you an “urgent” e-mail at night. Wait, I take that back, I will if it’s Fashion Week, and I’m desperately trying to finish my seating chart, and the show is in two days, AND ARE YOU COMING??!! You better come. I have, like, three seats that I can squeeze 15 people into, but you’ve insisted that you’ll make it to [New York] [London] [Milan] [Paris]. Thank goodness my client doesn’t know your face because if you don’t show, I’ll mark you as “attended” anyway. But know that you’ll get an e-mail from me the next day and that you will be coming to Press Preview. You know, we’ve all signed up for MailChimp for one reason: We can tell when you open an email, look at it, and even click the link. Is it really that hard, then, to press reply? Even if it’s just to say, “Leave me alone!”? Let’s pretend to get drinks soon! xo, Your Friend, the Publicist
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DEREK COCKLE Fashion Merchandising Professor & Former Vice President of Sourcing and Production for Boscorale Operating LLC
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