SEPTEMBER 12, 2017
WANG V. PLEIN: a study in excess
Tommy’s new crew The Morphew moment
+
Graydon’s
, exit discussed
the
Coach Approach Stuart Vevers on refashioning an American icon
For the fashion obsessed
Follow the latest looks across the globe— from the red carpet to the runway.
@gettyfashion
Natasha Poly Teyana Taylor
PHILIPP PLEIN
Paris Hilton
Pom Klementieff
Alexander Wang and Bella Hadid
SCENE
Nicki Minaj Alexander Wang and Philipp Plein were the type of spectacular spectacles that had some chicsters experiencing an existential crisis…while other, less jaded types were in the throes of rapture. Wang OVERHEARD… took the chic set to Bushwick, and after keeping them for an eternity Girl: What brings standing against police barricades, the models finally appeared. At Plein, you to the show? there were thousands of people in the Hammerstein Ballroom, and Guy: I provide Philipp with oodles queuing up outside. Quel désastre! transportation. We bring him to the venue. We’re going to 1Oak later. daily throwdown!
THE PLEIN SHOW
#WANGFEST Venue
A creepy warehouse
Alexander wang
Future
Hammerstein Ballroom
Seating sitch Chairs? Benches? Some guy swore Has anyone seen he paid for his seat some seating? at a round table
CALLING BS!
With Irina Shayk
Your shirt says Prince Charming Made Me Do It. Are you into fairy tales?
We’re going to hop into a RollsRoyce. What do you do? Girl: I have a blog, and I’m an elementary school teacher.
LOVEFEST!
I’ll watch them, but I don’t buy it.
With Shanina Shaik
The Prince Charming part?
I’m Russian. I’m very realistic. You have to Kim Kardashian, Nicki Minaj, Teyana work really hard for Pom Klementieff Taylor, Tiffany Trump your fairy tale. Nothing comes out of the sky. Cinderella can suck it! Biggest spectacle You said it! Attempting to get into A nearly nude Do people ask about the after-party before performance by your post-baby bod? you were crushed by Dita Von Teese No, because I never a large metal door answer those questions! NOURISHMENT Donuts, grilled cheese Booze sandwiches, Red Bull DRAWING PARALLELS! (of course) A-list attendees
THE DAILY WONDERS…
#wan g editiofest n!
WHAT WERE THEY THINKING?
“I really hope Anna is still at the Open.”
“This is why I wear sneakers.” —Selby Drummond
—Hamish Bowles
model COMP
—Vanessa Friedman
I love that photo so much. It made me so happy. Have you set a wedding day?
Yes! Next year! On a beautiful beach. Are we coming?
If you want to! I want people there!
With MatThew Noszka
How was the show?
I had a blast. His Six months’ rent (according to rumors, shows are always lit. He reminds me of Leonardo models were paid DiCaprio’s character from $20K) The Wolf of Wall Street. wait time What were you up to this summer? One hour and One hour and I went home to see my 10 minutes 11 minutes
“We’ll send you a dress!”
“Next year, I’m sending Matthew.”
Your Daily Summer cover is your Instagram avatar!
mom. I’m getting back into film this September.
Some of your Insta Stories worry us!
I’m an adrenaline junkie. I ride motorcycles and race cars. As you can see [showing his injuries], I’m pretty banged up right now.
PROMOTION
loads of lashes
Gato for Maybelline New York was inspired by “the kind of makeup that remains after a party” for the beauty look he created for the Cushnie et Ochs Spring ’18 show. A key component? Soft, clustered lashes, paired with super-fresh skin. BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Colossal Big Shot Mascara, $8.49, maybelline.com
PRO TIP: Gently pinch together the clusters of lashes for a next-day feel.
#OBSIXED FOR 7
Week of September 7–13 Obsixed: Six coveted or can’t-live-without items that make for a fashionable lifestyle. SOFIA KARVELA
1 My kids 2 Colorful mid-calf socks by Stance 3 True White slip-on sneakers by Vans 4 Leather motorcycle jacket by Saint Laurent 5 Avocado toast 6 Essex sunglasses by Native Ken SHOP THE LIST ON STORYANDRAIN.COM
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
PROMOTION
c o u rt esy a l e x a n der wa n g/ b fa .c om / dav i d x . p r u t t i n g ( 7 ) ; g e t t y i mag es ( 6 ) ; f i rst v i e w ( 3 ) ; i ma x t ree ( 2 ) ; g i or g i o n i ro ( 1 )
Kim Kardashian
Series 3.1 Emerging Fashion Designers
Art by Adam Dalton Blake
©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Introducing LIFEWTR Series 3. We advance and showcase the sources of creation and creativity.
The
OVERHEARD AT TRACY REESE!
heard
“Oh, my God—my mom is here and she’s making a model take a photo of her. That is very creepy.”—Tanya Taylor, at her presentation. • “Because I’m in love, and it’s great.”—Caroline Vreeland, at Prabal Gurung, explaining why she was glowing. • “My film Bitch is out, which I’m excited about.”—Jamie King, at Prabal Gurung.
tanya taylor
“I can’t believe he’s going to be leaving. He seems to own it in every sense of the word. He’s such an energetic person. Whatever “I’m he does, he’ll do something excited for him amazing. I’m only surprised to do what he’s doing, that the announcement but it’s a devastating loss. hasn’t yet come about The brand is big, but Graydon what he plans to do Carter is larger than life. Having next.” someone like him bring this brand —Suzy Menkes to life is something that’s really going to be missed. Especially his journalism, sense of humor, his warmth. He’s really beloved.” —Jessica Diehl Poynter
“I wonder if there’s a Las Vegas betting pool to see who’ll replace him.” —Lauren Santo Domingo
THE DAILY WONDERS…
thoughts on grexit?
“Shocked. The night before I was sitting across from him at Tom Ford and thought, Gosh, what a great run he’s had. I’m such a fan. I subscribed to Vanity Fair, and I only subscribe to like two magazines. He’s so f**king amazing about the whole Trump situation. I applaud him because he’s leaving on top.”
“I’m so honored to have worked with Graydon for the past seven years. I can’t even give any of my snarky comments right now because I’m so taken aback and devastated.… He was emotional when he told us. He said it was a hard decision to make; the entire office was quiet. Then we all stood up and cheered for him. He made it more than just an office at a magazine—he made it feel like a family.” — Michael Carl
shoe of the daily THE FURGETIT Congratulations! You have selected one of Stuart Weitzman’s most luxurious designs: Each mule features a multihued fur trim—crafted from genuine fox or mink fur—and is meticulously hand-assembled by skilled artisans to ensure that every color is showcased in the full pair. Due to the unique character of the patchwork design, the colors and patterns may vary between pieces (even between the left and right foot), and no two pairs are the same. We hope you enjoy stepping out in style in these spectacular works of art. $775, stuartweitzman.com
PROMOTION
—Mickey Boardman
“I love Vanity Fair—I was their ‘It’ girl. I was a young 68.”
PUPPY LOVE! It was a delight. I’m an old-fashioned New Yorker who always wore black. I’m tired of it! Isn’t this a dream of a studio? It reminded me of the ’50s, when I would go with my mom to studios in Europe. Now I’m in [Sies Marjan’s] advertising campaign! Photographed by Bruce Weber. How could I resist?
My next job is really exciting—I’m going to be working with a doggy. The dog was just found at the pound, so I’m going to meet her after the show. Apparently, she’s a talented actress. Dogs only perform for people that they like. I hope she accepts me!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Publisher
Executive Sales Director Stephen Savage Account Manager Cristina Graham Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Manager Carey Cassidy Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste. 301, New York, NY 10107.
—Isabella Rossellini
What’s new?
Mark Tevis
the official photo agency of The daily front row
“Oh, my goodness. I’ve been on a film set. You’re a bit cut out of the world. I wanted him to stay until we have a new president. [Laughs] Maybe he’s going to run for president!”
Thoughts on the show?
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Creative Director Jill Serra Wilde Fashion Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Associate Editor Sydney Sadick Art Directors John Sheppard, Magdalena Long Contributing Photo Editor Hannah Turner-Harts Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists RJ Hamilton, George Maier
getty images
—Maye Musk
With Isabella Rossellini at Sies Marjan
Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO
On the cover:
#OBSIXED FOR 7
Week of September 7–13 Obsixed: Six coveted or can’t-live-without items that make for a fashionable lifestyle. rebecca minkoff
1 Keith Small Saddle Crossbody Bag by 2 3 4 5 6
Rebecca Minkoff Wes Moto Jacket by Rebecca Minkoff C E Ferulic Serum by SkinCeuticals Platinum Rare Cellular Cream by La Prairie Alexis Mule by Rebecca Minkoff The Handmaid’s Tale on Hulu
SHOP THE LIST ON STORYANDRAIN.COM PROMOTION
Stuart Vevers and Adwoa Aboah in Coach 1941, photographed by William Jess Laird.
getty i m ages ( 1 0 ) ; firstvie w ( 5 ) ; shutterstoc k ( 4 ) ; p atric k m c m u l l a n . co m ( 2 )
“She always reminds me it’s called Oprah’s favorite things, not Adam’s favorite things.” —Adam Glassman, discussing the process of putting together the aforementioned list for O: The Oprah Magazine.
Series 3.2 Emerging Fashion Designers
Art by Tiffany Huang
©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Inspiration on the outside. Hydration on the inside.
runwayReport
new york state of mind
From deconstructed sportswear to a fresh, contemporary take on evening, the week’s top designers are irrefutably proving the prowess of American fashion. BY ashley baker & paige reddinger
Hit after hit after hit! Prabal was clearly feeling some sort of divine inspiration, and with Gloria Steinem looking on from her perch in the front row, he delivered a lineup of his best looks ever. First things first: the red ruffled splendor on Gigi, which we will be ordering immédiatement. Next up: the bouquet of beautiful chiffon frocks…the cut-out gowns...the sharp blazers and overcoats—way to make a woman look, and feel, her very best. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview (8); getty images (2); shutterstock (2)
prabal gurung
Series 3.3 Emerging Fashion Designers
Art by Ghazaleh Khalifeh
©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Discover our designers at LIFEWTR.com
BEAUTY TREND alert!
jason wu
When Wu loosens up, he does us all a great service. For Spring, eveningwear was made of jersey, officewear consisted of striped cotton separates, and slits and crops were found in all the right places. Grown-up bohemians, go ahead and revel in those ruched print dresses. You’ve earned them!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
GRAPHIC LINER
By Yadim MAYBELLINE NEW YORK
runwayReport
sies
marjan
G E T T Y I M A G E s ( 1 7 ) ; S H U T T E R S T O C K ( 5 ) ; f ir s t v ie w ( 1 )
For those of us still smarting over our failure to invest in one of Sander Lak’s killer shearlings last season, fret not—his Spring styles are even better. And they look best when paired with one of his off-kilter slip dresses or fearless jumpsuits. Another bright moment from one of New York’s top talents.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
runwayReport
tibi Amy Smilovic made a power move: suits with Bermuda shorts and vinyl corsets. Quel update to office attire! Even jumpsuits got the suiting treatment. There was plenty of versatility and edge to soldier the multihyphenate Tibi woman through life.
Sydney son Dion Lee has firmly installed himself in New York, and he’s now making some of the coolest American sportswear on the market. Take a wickedly chic white coat and matching dress, crafted to mimic the feel of denim. Or those knits so soft, they looked like terry cloth towels. Want one, want them all! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview (13); shutterstock (4)
dion lee
Financing Fashion since 1958
GARY WASSNER JOSHUA K APELMAN TIM MOORE
CHRISTINA MALLEOS
CRISTOPHER WASSNER BRITTANY PARRISH
MATTHEW MOECK
HILLDUN CORPORATION Financing and Factoring - est. 1958 NYC 212.244.2600
LA 213.955.9010
Hilldun.com
runwayReport BEAUTY TREND alert!
BOLD BROWS
By Erin Parsons for MAYBELLINE NEW YORK
JONATHAN SIMKHAI Stripes: officially a thing. Jonathan Simkhai showed some of the coolest versions, as his were festooned with lace and cut into unexpected silhouettes. Especially loving his wispy dresses and strongshouldered jumpsuits. Power dressing with the perfect dose of femininity!
Remember when this brand was mostly known for pretty lace going-out dresses? Neither do we. Han Chong is now specializing in statement pieces at beautifully unexpected prices, and his deeper foray into separates is a winning way to achieve world domination. Keep at it! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
f i r st v i e w ( 1 3 ) ; s h u t t e r sto c k ( 5 )
SELF-PORTRAIT
New York London Milan Paris Saturn firstVIEW is everywhere fashion online. firstview.com
THE
C O A C H revolution
We can almost count on our hands these days the number of designers who enter a house and manage to completely turn it upside down‌for the better. Stuart Vevers, executive creative director of Coach, has mastered that particular transformation. His whimsical approach to design (complete with rexy the dino!) has ensured that this American powerhouse is back where it rightfully belongs—on top. By eddie roche PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM JESS LAIRD FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
a man and his muse Vevers (right) with model Adwoa Aboah.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
You’ve been here a few seasons now. Is the brand where you want it to be? I’m really proud of what we’ve achieved, but there’s never an end to my ambitions. First and foremost, Coach is a fashion house, and that’s one of the things I’m most proud of. We will always be most known for our leather goods—I see Coach as America’s original house of leather—but a shearling coat is now as much a part of Coach as a saddlebag. Can you give us some hints on the Spring collection? It’s going to be a real celebration of New York City—obviously, Coach’s home for the past 76 years and more recently, my own home as well. Expect a celebration of the individuality and self-expression that the city is about. What do you love about this town? It’s a city of characters. Wherever you turn, people are being themselves and celebrating their uniqueness. It’s also a super international city, which I love. We hear you’ve moved to Tribeca. Do you miss the West Village? I loved being there, but I guess wherever you live you start to explore new areas. I do miss Bank Street, because pretty much every day I walked to and from work, mostly along the High Line. It felt like a luxury to be able to do that. Now I walk home along the river and it’s really beautiful. Be careful of the cyclists on the West Side Highway! [Laughs] It is terrifying! While we wait for Spring, talk us through the Fall collection. I like to play with juxtaposition to create attention. For Fall, my biggest influence was this very nostalgic, romantic, cinematic view of the great American landscapes. The American prairie has been a recurring reference for me—think Terrence Malick’s Days of Heaven. I was also influenced by the book Back in the Days, with photos by Jamel Shabazz, which highlighted the real beginnings of hip-hop in New York City. I loved the way [those artists] were putting looks together from their surroundings—very resourceful. This interesting tension between the prairie and hip-hop resulted in coats that are part puffer, part bedspread-inspired quilting. This also introduced some of our quite ironic play with our dinosaur, Rexy, who pulls the Coach carriage. Are you surprised that Rexy has become a thing? That wasn’t our plan—there was no strategy there. I’m drawn to working with people who like to laugh and have fun, and Rexy definitely came about in one of those moments in the creative process! Now she’s become a Coach mascot and has her own celebrity following—Selena Gomez, James Franco, Julia Roberts, Kate Moss, Zayn Malik, Michael B. Jordan. Chicest dino that’s ever lived! Will we see more of her? The center atrium of Coach House [at 685 Fifth Avenue] houses a 12-foot sculpture of Rexy designed by renowned artist Billie Achilleos. It’s constructed entirely from Coach bags and proprietary hardware. We continue to play with Rexy in the collections. In pre-Spring, there is also a shark, which we called Sharky. And they’ve been joined by a new friend, Uni! Your shows are very impactful. Why is a major production so important? The first collection came together quickly, and I feel fortunate that the stars were aligned. It generated a really positive reaction, and that gave me the confidence to push my vision for Coach forward.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Showing during New York Fashion Week was really my chance to say, “You know, look things are changing, things are happening. This is a new day for Coach.” And that’s why it’s been really important to show it. Why was Selena Gomez the right fit for your campaign? The words I use to describe Selena are the same words that I use when I talk about Coach—honest, authentic—and she has a certain effortlessness. Selena makes a real point of being close to her fans. There’s a reason why she has such a strong following in the world of social media. She’s also really lovely, fun, charming, beautiful. One of the things that Selena has done with us is be a supporter of a group called Step Up, which is all about empowerment of young women through mentorship and education. You have a collaboration with her out this month. It was super fun. Selena is obviously very creative, and we sat down [to conceptualize it] as two creatives. I brought the knowledge of leather goods; I worked with her to really figure out what she would want to use. It was very personal. Then we talked a lot about how we would make this really unique to her. It has a lot of personal touches—an empowering phrase that she wrote that’s inside the bag, for example. We played, pulled out swatches, and had a real laugh. She really wanted to understand how the process worked and wanted to see all the stages, and that made the experience authentic. Do you have a favorite Selena Gomez jam? It’s a tie between “Fetish” and “Bad Liar.” Why did you pick Steven Meisel to shoot the campaign? He was my first and only choice. I don’t have to explain the level and quality of his work. I wanted to convey that Coach was about celebrating a downto-earth and honest approach to luxury. I’m not interested in some fashion fantasy lifestyle! I felt like Steven was the only choice for making that “everyday feel” seem super special, and giving it that kind of finesse that his work has. Did you go on set? I’ve been on every single shoot, but I believe if you’re working with people of that level, you’ve got to give them space to follow their own instinct. I wouldn’t like someone standing over me while I’m trying to create something. Your casting is always excellent. Who are your muses? I’ve worked a lot with Lexi [Boling]. She was in that first presentation for Coach, and we’ve done loads of things together. I love Chloë Grace Moretz, Zoë Kravitz…I’m definitely drawn to people who have something to say and a point of view. Of course, Adwoa [Aboah]—I’ve known her for well over a decade. Was she modeling at the time? No. She was a little girl—she could have been 8 or 9. She and her sister, Kesewa, were in the last Coach show together, and I thought that was really charming. I loved seeing them together backstage. Hudson Yards is a spectacular complex, and you’re the top dog at Coach. Does that intimidate you in any way? I guess it reinforces my responsibility. I love what I do and I’m proud of what I’ve achieved. I do my best, and I think you’ve got to follow your instinct, your passion, and what you believe in. At Coach, I’m able to share my work with more people, and that’s a pleasure. ß
On the runway, Vevers shows an eclectic mix of prints and knits.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
DailyMale cool crew (From left) Alex Pall and Drew Taggart with Tommy Hilfiger in the designer’s showroom.
smoking haute! Tommy Hilfiger’s new partnership with The Chainsmokers is music to the fashion world’s ears. The DJ duo—comprised of Alex Pall and Drew Taggart—who broke through in the biz with their 2014 hit “#Selfie,” is now upping their fashion cred with a gig as Hilfiger’s latest brand ambassadors. Next stop for this trio? London! BY SYDNEY SADICK
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Tommy, why are you a Chainsmokers fan? Tommy Hilfiger: They’re a cool band, and I like the idea that they blend all different styles of music together. We’re always associating with musicians, and we always have our ears and eyes open to what’s next. Their album debuted at No. 1! They really have a connection with Generation Z and the millennials, too—also known as the Gigi [Hadid] group. What does being a global menswear ambassador entail? Hilfiger: They’re wearing all our clothes on their world tour now. We also collaborated on a special jacket. They really suit our menswear Hilfiger Edition Collection. You’ll see the way they look and the way they wear their clothes is authentic and it’s how we designed this collection to be: casual and cool with an ability to mix and match with anything. You’re showing in London this season. Explain! Hilfiger: We wanted to take our show on the road, and we had great success in L.A. last season. As a global brand, we have to reach a wide audience, so we thought about Europe, and where better than
“we’re always associating with musicians, and we always have our ears and eyes open to what’s next.”
It’s a plaid, plaid world Tommy Hilfiger’s menswear collection incorporates preppy stripes, lean trousers, and a mash-up of plaids.
c o u r t e s y t o mm y h i l f i g e r / b f a . c o m /j o e sch i l dh o r n ( 3 )
—Tommy Hilfiger
London? Especially for this type of collection—it’s really rock-inspired. What are your London haunts? Hilfiger: I stay at different places all the time because I like to sample different hotels, so I go everywhere from Claridge’s to The Connaught to The Beaumont. For restaurants, I like Zuma, La Petite Maison, and Koi. Chiltern Firehouse is also pretty cool. I also check on a lot of stores—Harrods and Selfridges—and I go to the boutiques on Bond Street. What’s the most British thing about you? Hilfiger: My suits! I actually have them made in London. In general, who are your male style icons? Hilfiger: I like the Kennedys: Jack Kennedy, Robert Kennedy.… I’m inspired by their nautical side, which I’m quite obsessed with. I also look at David Bowie and other English rock stars, and how they’ve taken British style and exaggerated it. We have to know: favorite Chainsmokers song? Hilfiger: “#Selfie,” of course! Alex and Drew, why did this collaboration feel so right for you? Drew Taggart: It’s been pretty rad to even have this opportunity. I’m from a small town in Maine with about 9,000 people. There’s a Tommy Hilfiger store on the corner that I would see driving to and from school. It was part of my upbringing! When did you get into fashion? Alex Pall: We’ve always liked clothes. Taggart: Fashion wasn’t into us. [Laughs] Pall: We are finally coming into ourselves. We love film, art, and fashion, obviously. It’s exciting to come into this world and learn so much about it by partnering with Tommy. What’s fascinating to me is how the brand reinvents itself every season. That’s challenging. How have your styles evolved? Pall: We definitely take more risks now than when we were dressing just for ourselves. For a while, we used to live in New York and would wear jeans and a lot of black. Now that we’re in California, we wear a lot more patterns and cool shirts. Taggart: Facebook Memories reminds you of the dark places you come from. [Laughs] What do the women in your life think of your first fashion campaign? Pall: They think it’s ridiculous. They say, “I can’t believe you guys have such a cool opportunity.” I
would like to think we’re known as stylish now, but we can’t take too much credit—we have an amazing stylist who’s turned us on to some really cool stuff. Taggart: Our friends don’t expect to see photos of us in a Tommy store. I didn’t even believe it at first until I started seeing it. We’re constantly getting messages from our friends—three or four an hour. They say, “What the hell?! This is amazing.” What are your favorite things to do in London? Taggart: So many things, and we’ve actually written a lot of songs in London. Pall: Love British chocolate—can’t get enough of that—and strawberries and cream. I like the pub scene, too. Every time we go back to a city we have a better and new experience with it. Are your families going to go to the Tommy show? Pall: My mom’s British, so if she can make it, she’ll definitely come. Our extended family wants to come, too—they usually say no! Who are your favorite male models? Taggart: Male models?! Pall: Does Tom Brady count? Taggart: I like Neels Visser. Lucky Blue Smith also has some cool features. Very striking. What would we be most surprised to find in your closet? Taggart: I have this, like, techno-colored polyester sweater with a cat on of it that I’m saving for a special occasion. You’ll know it when you see it! Pall: I have a lot of Jordans. I’m a low-key sneakerhead who’s in denial about it. You’ll also find a lot of women’s underwear, because I share my closet with my girlfriend. What should performers never wear? Pall: Gore-Tex. Doesn’t breathe well. Terrible idea. Taggart: Alex wore a Supreme jacket when he was performing once. He was so sick, and he was like, I’m just going to sweat out this disease. After 90 minutes, he was completely soaked! Pall: You want to feel confident, so just wear what you feel most happy in and that’ll translate to your performance. I respect guys like Gene Simmons and David Bowie, who went out there wearing those amazing outfits. I couldn’t pull that off. You guys have had an incredible year. What do you take away from all the fame and success? Taggart: We have a group of friends who bring us back down to earth. They pretty much give us s**t constantly. [Laughs] We’re just the same old dudes. ß
rock like tommy
Behold Mr. Hilfiger’s Fashion Week Playlist…
“My Generation,” The Who “Ziggy Stardust,” David Bowie “Closer,” The Chainsmokers “Sympathy for the Devil,” The Rolling Stones “Are you Experienced,” Jimi Hendrix “Stronger,” Kanye West “Communication Breakdown,” Led Zeppelin “Can’t Find My Way Home,” Blind Faith “The Next Episode,” Dr. Dre “Empire State of Mind,” Alicia Keys
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
DesignerFocus
feel the optimism! Kate Spade’s Spring ’18 collection included a joyful mix of floral prints, warm colors, and playful silhouettes.
Famous for collecting inspiration from her global jaunts, Kate Spade New York creative director Deborah Lloyd took us to the Grand Central Oyster Bar for Spring ’18, where her Southern charm–charged collection was on full display. Over champagne and oysters, we discussed! BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER
What brings us to the Grand Central Oyster Bar today? We always try to show at a classic New York institution. We wanted someplace that was a hidden gem for not just New Yorkers but people coming from all over the world. It really goes with our collection, which is inspired by Southern charm and New Orleans. It’s a great space, and really interesting, architecturally. What inspired you about New Orleans? It’s our 25th anniversary in 2018, so to celebrate, we decided to take a joyous trip around America. To start, we headed south. The South is so famous for its charm, and it felt very Kate Spade. I wanted to explore that with New Orleans, somewhere I’ve been intrigued by since I was a girl. I love the mix of American and French. I took inspiration from the flora and fauna we saw in the Garden District, the Audubon Society Butterfly Garden, and the Mississippi River and all the critters there. I went to Café du Monde for coffee and a beignet. I saw some of the nightlife and we went to the voodoo museums, but I’m very cautious of that stuff! And, FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
of course, I wanted to see the cemeteries—they’re magical places. How does the theme pop up in the collection? We created beautiful prints based on the Garden District, so the Spanish moss and the magnolias, and the Audubon’s butterflies. The colors are reflective of that—greens, soft dusty pinks with black backgrounds. It’s got the moody feeling of New Orleans. The wrought-iron lace-work in some of the clothes and garments goes back to the wroughtiron work in the French Quarters. And the critters! Bringing a live alligator in here was definitely brought up. [Laughs] Did you learn anything interesting from doing your research? The hankie tradition—during the Preservation Hall Jazz Band procession, the women have used hankies as flair and they wave them around. So we used embroidered hankies as our invitations. How are you celebrating 25 years of the brand? And it’s 10 years for you! It’s exciting. We brought back our Sam bag—that perfect nylon black bag—which is the first bag everybody knew us for. You’ll see us play on that throughout the year—everything from the classic nylon to embellishments to wicker to the shape. Happy birthday, Sam! How are things going since merging with Coach? In my world, nothing has changed. It’s all about being Kate Spade. We’re now one of a group of brands, and I think it’s important to be ourselves. Where to next? Paris! We’re going to celebrate the opening of our flagship. I can’t wait—I
love Paris and I lived there for six years! Looking ahead, where do you want to see Kate Spade go? We’re going to build on the success of our past 25 years. The core of what we do is handbags, so it’s looking back at those, like Sam, and reinventing them. We’ve become a lifestyle brand, so we’re looking at our girl and the different aspects of her life: Where’s she going? What’s she wearing? How’s she wearing it? How do we stay modern and relevant? What does she need to carry these days? There’s lots of things to think about. Cheers to the next 25! ß
taste test! How do you dress your oysters? I like a little bit of lemon and the mignonette sauce, which is the vinegar-based piece. But I don’t like to overwhelm them! Tell us an oyster fun fact. You’re not supposed to eat oysters in a month without the letter “r” in it. I learned that while I lived in Paris. Where’s your fave place to eat them? On Île de Ré in France. You cycle out to the oyster beds and you sit on the benches, eat oysters, and drink copious amounts of rosé and then try to find your bicycle and cycle home. It’s exquisite. Which was your favorite today? I like West Coast the best, I have to say. They have the prettiest shells and they’re creamy; I didn’t know there was creamy versus briny. You learn something new every day. Can you shuck an oyster? I’d have to have all the right equipment—the special gloves and everything. But I’d give it a go!
f i r s t v i e w ( 3 ) ; s h u tt e r s t o c k ( 2 ) ; c o u r t e s y k a t e s p a d e / b f a . c o m ( 1 )
THE WORLD IS HER OYSTER
Hello, Gorgeous @gettyfashion
talentScout
she’s all that
For Jordan Duffy, being an “It Girl” isn’t just about being a model or actress—it’s about doing things that inspire other women. The L.A. transplant is taking that concept to the airwaves with her new podcast, “The It Girls Guide,” while pursuing multihyphenate status in the entertainment world. Take it away, Jordan! BY SYDNEY SADICK photography by giorgio niro hair by kevin hughes for moroccanoil makeup by dillon peÑa
MISSONI coat; FRAME DENIM jeans; STUART WEITZMAN boots; shirt Jordan's own
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
How’s life in L.A.? I love Los Angeles, but I’m really a New York girl. I was born and raised on the Lower East Side, and when I was 8, we moved to Bedford. New York is definitely where my heart is! What initially brought you out west? I was working for DuJour as the red carpet host. I grew up singing and acting, so I thought L.A. was the right next move and that going to auditions and getting in front of casting directors was the right choice. Making those connections and getting a taste of the audition process has been invaluable. Tell us about your first audition. It was terrifying! It was in New York City for MTV. I didn’t get the part, but it was such a good learning experience. Over the course of my year in L.A., I’ve learned that content is king, so I really wanted to create something that’s important to me. Like your podcast! Yes! “The It Girls Guide” is becoming a web series where I talk to people, go to “It” places, and show everything that I think is “It” right now. I’m showing a bit more of my life, what I love, sometimes what I hate, the ups and downs, and what I’m pursuing in the entertainment industry. I’m also starting to include all my kick-ass girlfriends to give a glimpse of what they’re up to. Which guests have appeared on the show? So far, guests have included my friend and Olympic athlete Aly Raisman and Mariah Woodson, who just launched a swimwear collection. I’d be interested to have a [female] gynecologist on my show. What’s that like? What’s medical school like? It doesn’t necessarily have to be someone who’s already made it—the fact that you’re trying makes you an “It Girl.”
“i’ve had a lot of odd jobs along the way—that's what you have to do when you have a dream like this.”
IT GIRL Jordan Duffy is not just making strides on some of the hautest red carpets but also in the entertainment biz with her new podcast "The It Girls Guide."
Could you see yourself going on a reality show? I could see “The It Girls Guide” going in a reality direction. You have to be really careful with reality television, because you don’t know what’s going to happen or how they’re going to edit it. For now, I’d hold off, unless it was really special. When you were a child, what did you want to be when you grew up? A singer. I wanted to be Britney Spears, specifically. [Laughs] There are many embarrassing videos of me. I pursued singing for a while, but the industry is all about numbers. I was sick and tired of people telling me I couldn’t get a job based on numbers. Like, what about talent? What was your first job? When I was 12, I got a job at The Bee, an amazing clothing store near our summer house on the Jersey Shore. It was started by a good family friend who was
once a stylist at Bergdorf Goodman. Thanks to my mom [Susan Duffy, the CMO of Stuart Weitzman], I’d always loved fashion. My second job was in PR, and that wasn’t for me. [Laughs] I’ve also worked for Ramona Singer from The Real Housewives of New York City. I’ve had a lot of odd jobs along the way— that’s what you have to do when you have a dream like this. Your mom has had an impressive career in fashion. Did you ever think of going that route? Recently, I was looking at some old photographs, and I saw one in which I was sitting front row at the Chanel show in Paris. Wow! I’ve had so many opportunities to go backstage and meet people like Karl Lagerfeld, Naomi Campbell, and Claudia Schiffer. When I was a very little kid, I wanted to be involved in some way, but not in the way my mom is. I always wanted to be on the performing side!
How do you describe your personal style? I’m a jeans and a T-shirt kind of girl, but always with heels. Now that I live in L.A., I’ll throw on my Nikes for dinner. I’m obsessed with all the brands on Revolve, especially LPA. I’ll always love Gucci and Chanel, but I don’t wear those brands unless it’s my mom’s vintage stuff. And obviously, Stuart Weitzman—my mom doesn’t let me wear anything else! Who are your style icons? My mom. I know it’s cliché, but confidence is sexy and she’s so confident. Simplicity is key with her. She doesn’t always agree with what I wear [Laughs], but I always try to think, Will my mom like this? We’re so close; we’re like sisters. And like sisters, we butt heads! But we’re best friends. She’s the hardest person for me to be away from. She’s given me an incredible life and incredible opportunities, but with that comes having to bring my A-game. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
fineVintage
retro redux When Bridgette Morphew and Jason Lyon first joined forces as Paradox, they created the ultimate warehouse of designer vintage—and became a treasured secret for the world’s top designers. Now, their retail business, known as Morphew, offers up rare designer finds—and recently some original creations—to the public. BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY by SASHA ISRAEL Where did you meet? Bridgette Morphew: At a fashion show in our hometown of St. Petersburg, Florida. We each had our own lines, and we were part of an art cult called Vitale Brothers. We both cut up vintage and made our own designs. St. Petersburg, Florida, was the retirement capital of the world, and back then, you could find vintage like you wouldn’t believe. We didn’t have Bergdorf—all we had were flip-flops and cutoff jean shorts—so we found our inspiration in thrift stores. It was like a treasure chest. I literally found two ounces of gold in a pair of shoes once! How did you partner up on the business? Jason Lyon: I eventually moved to New York and worked for a studio where we did original textile designs and collected a bit of vintage. That’s when Bridgette saw a huge opportunity. Bridgette has had a few businesses, so she went back to Florida and brought all this vintage clothing back to New York and schlepped across the Garment District, working with different designers. That was in 2005, and we were selling vintage to designers for design—our company was called Paradox. Now they call us, we don’t call them. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Which brands are you working with these days? Morphew: We work with all the top brands. Valentino, for example—they’ll have an esoteric idea, and we already know what they’re going to want before they want it. It’s our job to be six months ahead of them. Also Ralph Lauren Collection… Lyon: …And we recently started working with Marc Jacobs’ team. They bought some really beautiful pieces, so I’m excited to see how it inspires the collection this season. Esteban Cortázar is a good client of ours—he loves playing with the vintage. You would never know that looking at his runway, because his designs are all so original, but he will look at the cut of a sleeve or the way something’s draped, just like an architect. When did you expand the business? Morphew: In 2013, we opened our doors to the public as Morphew to sell to consumers, stylists, costume designers, personal collectors, and a lot of celebrities. Who are some of the celebrities that have worn pieces from Morphew? Morphew: All the Kardashian sisters, except Khloé. Lyon: Suki Waterhouse just came in and bought an
original design. Naomi Campbell, Nicole Richie, Aerin Lauder, Kylie Minogue, Florence Welch, Sophia Bush, and Kim Kardashian have all bought original pieces as well. Morphew: Miley Cyrus just bought a whole bunch of pieces. Gloria Vanderbilt hasn’t bought an original yet, but she’s a supporter of us. We personally helped Gloria shop for the launch of her documentary with [her son] Anderson Cooper. We got her Issey [Miyake] for her press release. Does the Paradox part of the business still exist? Morphew: It crosses over a little bit. We also have a print archive that is also a part of Paradox. We have 6,000 vintage trends, and we also print fabric. Lyon: Morphew was created as more of a retail platform. The Paradox end of the business is already working well. Designers or design teams will call us and say, “Hey, can I come in on a Sunday? I’m in town for one day.” Or for example, recently we shipped out three trunks for the Kooples to shop in L.A. Morphew: On September 1, we started being represented by The Residency in L.A. Vintage has become so popular, so Jason and I thought, “Well,
f i r s t v i e w ( 3 ) ; a ll o t h e r s c o u r t e s y
Morphew merch
Any other recent finds? Lyon: We just bought an Esteban Cortázar polyester dress and the average vintage market price for A Norma Kamali ’80s era it is $300, but the design is so leopard-print coat worn cool. It’s what we call a “straight by Madonna to factory” dress—a fast-fashion retailer will copy it, they’ll make a million bucks off of it. Morphew: Then they’re happy with us, and they get a bigger budget to spend on us. The accounting department didn’t mind our invoice quite as much. So we work with companies beyond the big high-end fashion houses as well. What are some of the rarest pieces in your collection? An iconic ’90s era Versace Lyon: We have a top from chain metal dress McQueen’s shipwreck collection that’s constructed from shredded chiffon. I love it as a piece of fashion history, because that collection is what brought shredded chiffon into the fashion dialogue. We have a lot of really early Issey Miyake, too. I have this Jean-Charles de Castelbajac coat that is made out of teddy bears— Alexander McQueen that’s not exactly fashion, that’s shredded chiffon top art. We have some Versace looks Rare finds (From left) Morphew’s original creations made from vintage Spring/Summer 2003 fabrics; a look from Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2003 collection; with the Andy Warhol prints. We Versace’s iconic chain metal dresses from Haute Couture 1997. have a leopard Norma Kamali coat that was worn by Madonna that’s how do we set ourselves apart?” I said, “Well, let’s Why is this season the right time for you to from 1987, or maybe earlier. We have a Versace chain go back to where we started and start remaking the launch at NYFW? metal dress from 1996 that still has the original price stuff again.” So we started reworking the vintage. Lyon: Numerous celebrities have been buying our tag on it. It was $56,000! If you factor in inflation, Jason is a self-taught couture designer. We sold his pieces left and right. We have done a few things that’s about $86,000 today. That’s why I think people first piece to Valentino. during Fashion Week in the past, but they were lost are loving the Gucci aesthetic right now, because Lyon: I wanted to create beautiful things that were in the noise, so we wanted to show people we are they really feel like they’re getting something for their one-of-a-kind. I like creating original designs and actually designers. We use antique textiles, but we money. It’s real design—not just something basic using antique textiles, because I like the poetry of the are creating original designs. We really want that that’s done in expensive fabric. handwork that cannot be replicated today. to differentiate ourselves in the world of reworked Which trends do you think we’ll be seeing this Morphew: I knew from our past what Jason could do, vintage. As Bridgette says, “We used to take season? so for two years, I was knocking on his door, saying, inspiration and sell it out. Now, we’re turning it on Lyon: More color, embellishment, and florals. Disco “What are you going to design?” within ourselves.” boho is a good way of putting it, thanks to the Lyon: We definitely sound off on each other with our Speaking of textiles, tell us about your selection metallic, ruffles, and lace. On the minimalist front, ideas. of vintage lace pieces. you’re going to see more architectural clothes and Morphew: I impulse-bought this really expensive Lyon: So much of what we’re doing revolves around oversize pieces. Comfort is still a big theme, too— fabric, and we had it for three years, just sitting in our the lace. We have beautiful vintage lace gowns, that whole tracksuit moment is going to be insane. storage. I said, “We need to get this fabric out and do and we rework many of them. The Victorian gowns They’re going to be so ubiquitously all over the place something with it.” are often too small for a modern body. Oftentimes, you’re going to hate them in six months. Because Lyon: The bodice is like an Eastern European Victorian the lace is really special. I was working with [Jeanthere’s so much political unrest in the world, people piece, and the hem came from a sari, and then the Paul] Gaultier and he bought a ’30s knit dress from want comfort and fantasy. Quilting is something we piece panel in the middle is from something like an me that was made of a nice old cotton net. I said, are loving right now. There are a lot of conversational Indian textile. The skirt is from the ’50s, but it was “Oh, I am so excited you’re getting this, because elements in print, like birds, critters, bugs, lizards, and obviously made with a luxury textile. So that’s a lot you’ll be able to reproduce this and do it justice.” He butterflies. Bias cuts and slip cuts are still going to of the inspiration for the collection that we’re going just looked me straight in the eyes and said, “No, I be happening. That’s what the models are buying and to be showing during New York Fashion Week— cannot ever get this kind of net.” I said, “But you’re wearing. John Galliano, Dolce & Gabbana, and Donna that Eastern European aesthetic of embellishment a French couturier!” He said, “This quality doesn’t Karan—all those ’90s minimal, slinky, ’30s-esque and enrichments and life and flowers, with a exist anymore.” He was buying it because he liked silhouettes. Also, right now you either wear one print gilded quality. Obviously, we’re greatly inspired by some of the design lines. Historically, lace was worn head-to-toe or you need to wear four. And even the Alessandro Michele and what he’s doing at Gucci. by wealthy men because it took hundreds of hours to designers who are edgier and contemporary are still He’s bringing back life, fun, and color. But this make and was therefore very expensive. It was like doing big Victoriana sleeves. Even if it’s in a washable collection was done with our own aesthetic. wearing a fancy watch. cotton, it’s all about that element of fantasy. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
iconStatus
CATCHING UP WITH KENZO! What’s the legendary Kenzo Takada up to these days? The designer, who left his eponymous label almost 20 years ago, is focusing on interior decorating. Case in point, his new furnishings and decorative objects collaboration with French furniture company Roche Bobois, all in Takada’s signature patterns and bright colors. From life in Paris to his thoughts on Kenzo circa 2017, Takada fills us in.
Kenzo’s Spring 2017 collection
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
When you retired in 1999, you said that you wanted to focus on décor. Pourquoi? When I left Kenzo, I started to really take care of my home in Paris, and I enjoyed working on the decoration, creating an ambiance and harmony. That made me develop a certain taste and attraction for décor, and created a desire to focus on it. And now it’s a second career! Recently, you reenvisioned Roche Bobois’ iconic Mah Jong sofa. Tell us more. I was approached by Roche Bobois two-and-a-half years ago, but I’ve known of that sofa for ages. It was developed nearly the same year that I started Kenzo—the sofa came out in 1971, and I started opening shops in 1970. I love working with textiles, colors, textures, and different materials, so it was definitely a fun challenge. It was a great collaboration. The Roche Bobois team made it possible to find the perfect harmony of all these different elements and techniques, even up until the final process when I kept changing the prototypes of what they were producing. Really quickly, I realized I wanted to choose a theme around Japan. I wanted to find traditional patterns and graphics that also made it really contemporary. What were your initial reactions to French culture when you first moved to Paris? I always wanted to go to Paris. I grew up in a dark era of Japan just after World War II. I started thinking of Paris after reading my sister’s magazines and watching Audrey Hepburn movies. That’s what really motivated me to go. I took a boat to Paris, and when I got there January 1, 1965, I was in total shock. I ended up taking a train late in the night to a not-sogood area of Paris. I thought to myself, “What am I doing here?” Because it wasn’t at all like the Audrey Hepburn movies—at all.
What’s your favorite Japanese restaurant in Paris today? My ex-personal chef [Toyomitsu Nakayama] used to work at my home for many years. He learned to cook French and Japanese cuisine in Japan, which is kind of like a fusion. A few years ago, he wanted to start his own restaurant, so I helped him. It’s called Toyo. You have to try it! Yum! In March, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon paid tribute to your most iconic looks at the Kenzo fashion show. What was your reaction? I went to the show but didn’t know what it was about. I knew it was a tribute to me, but I didn’t know they would completely replicate the same sketches of the same clothes [I did]. When it came out, I was shocked to see what I did so many years ago. I appreciate that [Carol and Humberto] have the guts to do things. In the end, it turned out quite good. I was proud. We can’t find you on Instagram! What are your thoughts on social media these days? I’m discreet. I’m obviously of Japanese origin, and am a bit of a shy person. I don’t really like to take selfies and such. I don’t have a strong interest. What will I show, and what’s the point? I don’t really like to promote myself. What were you up to this summer? Every summer for almost the past 10 years, I’ve gone to Greece. We’ll take a boat and visit different islands. When was the last time you were in NYC? Last year! I used to fly the Concorde every month to New York. I loved Studio 54. I spent a lot of time there! I even had one of my fashion shows there in 1977. Now I’m a little old…but I [still] love to dance. You’ve worked in a range of creative mediums. What’s next? I’ll definitely continue to work in décor, but whatever I do, it will always have a certain link to fashion. For now, I’d like to bring back some more know-how traditions of Japan to the forefront. ß
getty images (8); firstview (3); all others courtesy
BY SYDNEY SADICK
brandFocus
elle’s belles Ashley Graham + Jordyn Woods + a New York Fashion Week runway show—Addition Elle is revolutionizing the shape of fashion, and they’ve got the “It” girls to prove it. Roslyn Griner, VP of marketing, explains. BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
to the runway! Addition Elle jetted from Canada to the runways of New York Fashion Week to showcase its latest collection of stylish and wearable plussize designs.
When was Addition Elle created? Addition Elle has been in the Canadian marketplace for more than 30 years. We have a long history being the leading plus-size retailer in Canada, but our brand isn’t really well-known in the U.S. market yet. How have things changed since Ashley Graham came on board to launch her lingerie line? When we signed Ashley Graham, we kind of knew that she was going to be famous. She told me her dream was to become a lingerie designer and to have her own line. When I looked at all the models who went on to have their own lingerie lines, there was a white space in the industry. Ashley definitely had her own sense of style and opinion on what was missing. So I pushed my president [Janice Leclerc] to do it, and the rest is history. Why is it called Addition Elle? Additionelle is a French term that translates to “more of you.” It’s a reference to a plus-size woman.
What’s the state of plus-size fashion today? When I started with the brand six years ago, I was depressed by the major players in plus-size, including Addition Elle. The stores were dark, they weren’t fashionable, it wasn’t inspirational. Plus-size women weren’t acknowledged by the fashion world. They were so frustrated. I was empowered with rebranding our stores in Canada. We came up with the idea of fashion democracy, where style isn’t limited by size. We would replicate the fashion experience of mainstream retailers but cater to our customers. We went so far as to think about what the photography should look like because plus-size women didn’t really see images of themselves in mainstream magazines. I wanted our photo shoots to look like something that would be featured in Vogue. We emphasized the makeup, the accessorizing; we used Katie Tobin, a top stylist in Canada. If we wanted to be a fashion brand that was truly about fashion democracy, we needed to showcase on a runway that wasn’t plus-size. So we showed at Kia Style360 last year, and now we’re on the IMG platform. The high-end market hasn’t been as fast to embrace this consumer and there is work to be done, but it’s definitely an improvement. How has Addition Elle become a pioneer in plus-size? We’ve become a leader in the lingerie space. When we rebranded, we wanted to create a house of brands, because women didn’t want a “plus-size brand” on the label. We didn’t want to be the Lane Bryant of Canada. We have Love & Legend, Nola, and Ashley Graham to address different lifestyles and
g e t t y i m ag es ( 7 ) ; p o rt ra i t: co u rt esy
“We came up with the idea of fashion democracy, where style isn’t limited by size.”
aesthetics. At the time, nobody was doing branding in plus size. We were one of the first to work with the blogger community, because I couldn’t get designers to work with me— Nadia Aboulhosn, Nicolette Mason, and most recently Jordyn Woods. Models like Ashley and Jordyn are helping to change perceptions of body image. Who are some others? Chrissy Metz, who has a leading role on a mainstream television program, This Is Us. She’s beautiful, she’s fashionable, she’s confident. Designers are going to have to step up to the plate and dress her. Let’s be honest—a lot of the models who are considered plus, aren’t. Ashley is probably the most curvy out of the girls out there. And Philomena Kwao, Candice Huffine, Precious Lee, Tara Lynn. [Blogger] Gabifresh was revolutionary—it was forbidden to say the word “fat,” even in the plus-size industry. For her to use that terminology was crazy at the time. How have you seen Ashley evolve over the past couple of years? Oh, my God, she’s a megastar. One day she is going to have her own talk show. She’s so humble and so genuinely connected to her fans. She’s exactly the same as she was when I met her, except now she needs more security. [Laughs] She’s funny and she’s got that “it” factor. It’s rare—you either have it or you don’t. It’s beyond beauty. You just want to be in her circle. What’s the biggest misconception about designing for plus-size? That you can grade up from a size 0 to a 16 or 18. Curvy women have different dimensions and body types. It’s a bit more complex—some women carry their weight in the center, others in their hips. Another misconception is that if you grade up, your shoulders are bigger or your arms are longer. It’s much more around the bust line, the hip line, and the center. Do you think magazines are becoming more inclusive when it comes to size? I see a glimmer of hope—I’ve seen more editorial coverage this year than ever in the past. Ashley monopolized the majority of those covers, but Candice Huffine and Tara Lynn are also landing editorials.
ashley graham
What have you been up to this NYFW? The Addition Elle show and pop-up, and I’ve been going to events, wearing outfits, and killing it. Why did you decide to join up with Addition Elle for its Love & Legend line? They were one of my first clients. I love the quality of the clothing, the fit, and when they approached me to do a collection, I was like, of course! I love the fashion democracy movement. We had to find a mix of my style and Addition Elle style. I sent over my inspiration, and we collaborated on something that was just as equally them as it was me. How do you describe your style? Someone explained it to me as “urban eclectic,” so I’m running with that! [Laughs].
What was your intro to Addition Elle? I’ve been working with them since I was 16, and six years ago, I felt I had to do more than modeling. I thought, I’m the lingerie girl in America in the plus-size world, why don’t I do my own lingerie? I had a meeting with Roslyn [Griner, VP of marketing], and I was like, Look, girl, I want to make some bras with you—let’s do this. My style is a little bit more bondage, sexy, corsets, chemises. How do you ensure the pieces are supportive and still sexy? People say it’s hard to make it look sexy with support, but it’s not. I look at the runways and the lingerie shows, and maybe make the strap or the band a little thicker or add support in the undercup because we want the swell of the breasts to be beautiful. I know these tricks because I’m the customer. I’m like, okay, that’s going to dig in to me in a bizarre way. It’s about smart lingerie. What’s top priority in the design? It’s all about the detail. You could have a great base, and then you can start cutting it up, sewing different fabrics or stitchings. What’s the wildest lingerie you own? I definitely have a head-to-toe fishnet body suit that’s backless. [Laughs] What was your first bra? In middle school, my mom visited me for lunch one day. She was floored, because all my friends were as flat as a board, and I was filling out. She took me that day to get trainer bras, but that wasn’t going to do it. We got the underwire right away. What’s your go-to granny panty? Addition Elle’s hipster bottoms. The more coverage on the butt, the better. When I go to sleep, all I wear is a big granny panty. I love a granny panty under a short dress, because if it blows up, there’s something cute under there!
And society in general? There’s still bias, but there’s more acceptance. Shows like America’s Got Talent have a lot of plussize contestants, and even Project Runway. It’s slow moving, but it’s happening. Some models don’t want to be called “plus-size”—they use euphemisms like “curvy.” To a certain degree, I agree, but a model is a model—she just happens to have different dimensions. We put the labels on them. In our runway show we have a T-shirt that says, Labels Are for Clothes Only. What’s up this NYFW? We had a see-now, buy-now collection for the first time. We have a pop-up shop on Fifth Avenue that opened the day of the runway show where customers can try on clothes that were on the runway and purchase them. It’s a sampler of everything that is at Addition Elle. Any highlights to call out? The standout piece in Jordyn’s collection, for me,
is the cropped denim jacket with graffiti print. It’s funny—in our office, a lot of people who are straightsize want to buy the jacket. Our president always said, I want straight-size people to be jealous of the clothing that we’re selling in our stores. Where do you hope to see Addition Elle headed? And the plus-size market? We’re opening more doors with wholesale and we’re looking to open in the United States. There’s a lot of space in plus-size retail; it’s not as oversaturated as straight size. There’s room for a brand like Addition Elle, which has a bit more of a European flair. We’re opening in Macy’s this fall with Ashley’s line, and we’ll be in 150 doors by spring. That’s more doors than we have in Canada! As far as the overall market, I would love to see more higher-end options. There is a belief that plus-size women don’t want to invest in better clothing. If designers did their research they would find that there are all kinds of women from all walks of life who are just really dying to have more selection. ß
JORDYN WOODS
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CHICMoments
CHIC CHAT!
WITH Michael Kors
Sarika Rastogi and Stellene Volandes
SWANNING AROUND TOWN
to the carlyle!
With Stellene Volandes
Stellene Volandes and Michael Kors brought the chic set to the Carlyle Hotel to celebrate Town & Country’s annual list of T&C’s 50 New Modern Swans.
Alexandra Richards
Aerin Lauder and Michael Kors Clara McGregor Aurora James
FASHION SPEAK! Harley Viera-Newton
ON THE MEND!
With Sistine Stallone
You’re with IMG now. Modeling this season? I’m doing a few shows in Milan. I’m excited. I walked for Chanel, too. What’s on your fashion bucket list? Town & Country was my first American cover and I’d love to do another American one. Any magazine will do!
With Martha Hunt
Martha Hunt
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
How was your trip to Burning Man? It was mind-blowing. I had a lot of fun, but I got strep throat halfway through so all the fun quickly turned into hell on earth. I’m back to normal now. I slept for four days after I got back. What brought you out tonight? I love Michael Kors and love what this event is about. The swans, society…I’m Southern. My mother was a debutante. Best show you’ve seen at the Carlyle? Woody Allen with his jazz band. It was fabulous. He was a little sleepy. I’m proud of him for performing for so long.
Princess Olympia of Greece, Sistine Stallone, Amelia Hamlin, and Delilah Hamlin
c o u r t e s y m i c h a e l k o r s / b f a . c o m / k e l ly t a u b ( 1 1 )
What does swan-dom entail? Town & Country has chronicled the bright young things for 170 years. The modern swans list was originally inspired by a Truman Capote quote. He saw swans as young women who not only deserved your attention, but also your admiration. That’s what we look for. The 2017 swans are beautiful and bright, but also philanthropists, journalists, writers, businesswomen—young women with grace, dignity, and purpose. Are you a Carlyle regular? I’m here all the time! If you think you’re going to have a bad day and you want to change how that day goes, have breakfast at the Carlyle.
What does it take to be a modern swan? A modern swan has to be hyphenated. In another day, it was enough to just look fabulous and go to a lot of parties, but these girls are stylish, beautiful, but also smart as whips and able to do a lot of things. I always say, Isn’t the best thing in life to be sophisticated when you are young or young when you are old? What’s the most remarkable thing you’ve ever seen at the Carlyle? I saw Bobby Short for the first time when I was 15. I probably saw Bobby Short here 30 times!
We don’t just obsessively study the fashion world. We rock it, too. LIM grads are tireless workers, fashion-biz devotees, creative powerhouses. They’ve been taught by expert faculty, brought excellence to several internships with top companies, and adopted mentors from some of the most powerful and influential networks in the industry. Our students turn real experiences into real careers. When LIM grads enter the workforce, it’s with a confidence that distinguishes them from their peers.
FIND OUT MORE AT LIMCOLLEGE.EDU/BEYOND
ALLISON TRACEY '19 Fashion Merchandising
S:10.25”
S:13”
OFFICIAL MAKEUP SPONSOR OF
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK ©2017 Maybelline LLC.