SEPTEMBER 13, 2016
RUNWAY
REBELS
DECADENT
SOIRÉES
VISION ACCOMPLISHED! CHIC, WEARABLE, SCALABLE – THE GENIUS OF PROENZA SCHOULER
ROCK ROYALTY
CASTING CALL!
EXPAT CHAT
How are you enjoying the States?
WITH SOMSACK SIKHOUNMUONG
It’s fun! I love New York. It’s very different from dreary old London. I live in the West Village. My house is covered in ivy, so I wake up every morning and it’s like living in the trees. It’s all very optimistic and positive!
What’s the scoop on your models? This season, we picked real people who we hang out with and love and admire. Sunrise Coigney Ruffalo, who is Jenna’s friend, and Courtney Crangi and Philip Crangi…there’s a family affair to all of this.
Your accent is gorgeous. Remind us where you’re from?
Why did you want to do that?
WITH JONATHAN SAUNDERS
Sunny Glasgow, Scotland!
HEARD
There was no Diane in sight at DVF’s presentation at a raw space in MePa. No worries, Jonathan Saunders was more than happy to play host. And what a solid first outing! • This season’s Hood By Air show was (seriously) brought to you in part by PornHub. The affair started 40 minutes late, but nobody seemed to care. Naomi Campbell sat front row with her Empire costar Jussie Smollett. • J.Crew took over Spring Studios for its presentation, and Mark Ruffalo arrived avec enfants and graciously took selfies with fans. • Congrats to Elle’s Evan Campisi and his wife, Trollbäck & Company’s Rosie Garschina, on the arrival of baby Roman. Born on September 7 at 5 p.m., the gorgeous guy weighed in at 6 lbs., 5 oz. Jonny Johansson, you know where to send those custom onesies.
It was an opportunity to see our clothes on all stages of life. Whether it be mothers or daughters or kids. It’s very us to look to real people for inspiration. It’s a nice opportunity to do something different.
What did you do this summer? I went to a pasta fest in Italy! We swam and ate for 10 days.
Did you gain weight? I have an amazing metabolism. I can thank my parents for that!
J.Crew
HOOD BY AIR!
BROADWAY BABY
Would you describe HBA as funky?
Shouldn’t you be at your matinee?
COOLEST GRANNY ALERT! WITH WHOOPI GOLDBERG
DVF
GOING ZEN
WITH KATE LANPHEAR
What did you do post-Maxim? I went to India. I taught in the slum schools there. I learned to meditate, gave up meat, and Zen-ed out. It was supposed to be a two-week trip, and I stayed and stayed for months.
What did you learn about yourself from that experience? We’re so deep! I learned more than I probably wanted to know about myself. When you shed some light on the dark parts…I learned how big the world is outside of everything. The kids I taught were incredible. I don’t mean to sound like a big Eat, Pray, Love cliché.
Did you check in on fashion news?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
There wasn’t a lot of Wi-Fi in the slums! I had other things to worry about.
Funky doesn’t exist anymore. They are classic. People call it streetwear, but it’s not streetwear; it’s what people are wearing. It’s peoplewear, and everyone is wearing it.
Our recent Q&A with you has been a major hit on our website. People love you!
WITH CYNTHIA ERIVO, TONY AWARD-WINNING STAR OF THE COLOR PURPLE
I took a day off! It’s very unusual, but it’s a different kind of working day.
Why did you want to come to J.Crew? I didn’t know they were using everyday people who are stunning, and I love how cool it is. I’ve met Somsack before and he’s just a lovely person. I couldn’t say no.
That’s kinda nice! It’s better than them hating me!
DRINK TIME
WITH JUICY J. What brought you to HBA?
I love Hood By Air. It’s super fresh.
You also saw Yeezy. Everything went pretty smooth! I really don’t complain.
You’re the only person who’s told us that! It’s a blessing for me to be here.
How did you get your name? It was a name from back in the day, when I was a DJ, and it stuck with me.
What’s your favorite juice? Jungle juice. It’s like a fruit punch from the hood.
Teyana Taylor and Iman Shumpert
GETTY IMAGES (11); ALL OTHERS COURTESY
Jenna Lyons and Cynthia Erivo
HK_SPS_10.25"Wx13"H_OL.indd 3
29/08/2016 3:14 pm
#WangFest, anyone?
Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO
SCENE
There are so few parties that merit an all-nighter, but for Alexander Wang? Come on! Madonna! McDonald’s! Minaj! The coolest kids were at Pier 94 for #WangFest, celebrating the launch of Adidas Originals by Alexander Wang. Yes, there was a pop-up 7-11, along with a claw machine dispensing gratis Nars products and Wangdesigned Bic lighters. After taking in a DJ set from Skrillex, guests like Jourdan Dunn and Christina Milian noshed on McDonald’s fries and, yes, McGriddles. (We know how you love your McGriddles!) • Relatively speaking, the Christian Siriano show was a tame affair, with lovely gowns and ’90s-era celebs.
Nic Galway and Alexander Wang
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Design Director Jill Serra Wilde Fashion Editor Paige Reddinger Contributing Editor Lauren Smith Brody Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Associate Editor Sydney Sadick Art Directors Teresa Platt, Magdalena Long Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editors Emma Schwartz, Hannah Turner-Harts Contributing Copy Editors Stacy Cousino, Kerry Acker, Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists RJ Hamilton, George Maier
Mark Tevis Publisher
Christian Siriano and Neve Campbell
WITH LEIGH LEZARK AT CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
You’re pregnant! When are you due? December. I’m expecting a boy. I’ve been feeling better than ever. I’m drinking a lot of water!
Have you picked out a name? Not yet. Even if I had, I don’t think I’d tell. That opens you up to a lot of opinions, and I don’t care about other people’s opinions.
Karl Lagerfeld Jr. would be a good name for a baby. I need to see my son first before I decide for sure.
RANDOM ALERT!
WITH PAMELA ANDERSON AT CHRISTIAN SIRIANO You don’t come to NYFW very often!
I’m in town to support a national domestic violence hotline, so this just worked out.
What’s your secret? I’m vegan! Be nice to people! Save the world! Save the environment!
Do you stay out of the sun? I don’t. It’s a problem. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
AN ANONYMOUS NYFD WORKER WEIGHS IN!
Madonna
I saw you taking a picture of the scene.
Yeah, I was sending it to my wife. She probably thinks I’m up to no good or cheating on her. I’m actually at work!
Do you know who Alexander Wang is?
To advertise, call (646) 768-8102 Or e-mail: mark@dailyfrontrow.com
Vera Wang. Alexander…no idea. He’s doing something for Adidas?
Yep!
GETTY IMAGES The Official Photo Agency of The Daily Front Row
Oh.
What’s the best part of what you’re seeing? I guess that they did it in this big old space. I was down here for something work-related. We had an automatic alarm going off and we were walking around in this big open space with nothing here, and now to see everyone here with all the food trucks and people is nice.
Are you going to go to the McDonald’s truck? No, it’s so good though! I can’t eat that; I’ve got to stay healthy.
Have you seen any celebrities here? I wouldn’t even know, honestly.
Kylie Jenner is here. Bruce Jenner’s daughter? I’m not caught up in the whole fashion nothing. Honestly, it’s plastic. It’s not real life. It’s so farfetched and materialistic. I’m sorry, I don’t mean to…it’s just not real.
SHOE OF THE DAILY
STUART WEITZMAN’s Clinger. This season’s spin on the stocking boot is finished with a pointed toe and stacked heel. Crafted from stretch leather, this midcalf boot was designed for a flawless fit. Pair with everything from cropped trousers to full midi skirts. $725, stuartweitzman.com
The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste. 301, New York, NY 10107.
The Tabari,
$190
ON THE COVER: PROMOTION
Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough with model Selena Forrest in Proenza Schouler Spring 2017 collection, photographed by Ryan Liu.
G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 6 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F A D I D A S O R I G I N A L S / B FA . C O M ( 2 ) ; A L L O T H E R S C O U R T E S Y
BABY TALK!
Executive Sales Director Stephen Savage Account Manager Cristina Graham Midwest Sales Rhapsodie Media, Kathy Burke Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Manager Carey Cassidy Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
S:10.25”
S:13”
Makeup artistry by Gato. ©2016 Maybelline LLC.
Whoopi Goldberg and models at Gypsy Sport
HEARD
Band of Outsiders, version 2.0, debuted at Skylight Clarkson. The lovely new designers: Niklaus Hodel, Matthias Weber, and Florian Feder, grads of Antwerp’s famed Royal Academy of Fine Arts. • Coterie x The Mercer are hosting a NYFW lounge at The Mercer hotel all day long on September 12, 13, and 14. Expect connectivity stations, free manicures and refreshments, and grab your Coterie VIP badge in advance of the show. • Meanwhile, at Samsung 837, Gypsy Sport and Timo Weiland put out raucous collections.
TIMO WEILAND
GYPSY SPORT
Mickey Boardman, Virginia Smith, Hamish Bowles, and Steven Kolb
Oversize jackets, printed pants, and new-shape minis were the motifs of the moment.
THE DAILY+#ALDOCREW
CHICSTER OF THE DAY DANIELLE PRESCOD @danielleprescod
DECOMPRESSING! D RESSING!
What’s your new professional move? I’m the lifestyle editor at BET.com, which means I run all things fashion, beauty, fitness, health, and love-related.
WITH MATTHIAS WEBER A AND FLORIAN FEDER FL
What’s the fashion like at the new job?
How are you feeling? Florian: It’s been eight months of work! Matthias: I’m trying not to cry. Your inspiration is “unsung heroes.” Such as? F: We grew up with movies like The Breakfast Club
I’m the only fashion person at my new job. It’s a really, really new experience for me since I have only ever worked in fashion editorial before. I get a lot of questions about what people should wear every day. I try to keep my own work looks pretty low-key.
and Kids.. The idea was to put together the shy guy and the quarterback.
My room! My neighbors below hate me. I hate to wear heels outside in NYC! They are always getting ruined.
Where is your favorite place to walk in heels?
we kept it. We tried to do a literal translation of this “band of outsiders.” It was overwhelming—there was 12 years of work! We reviewed it, and decided to go completely away from it. It didn’t feel right to copy someone else’s story. It felt right to give it a new life and not live up to something we could never do. We’re not the old owner. We grew up with street culture, and we tried to inflect that.
Have you met Scott Sternberg? F: We haven’t.
The Porchiano,
$120
BAND OF OUTSIDERS
The Sully,
$130
All available at aldoshoes.com.
PUBLICIST PATROL!
ANGEL EYES
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
$66
DANIELLE’S DA DANI E’S P PICKS
PROMOTION
REBECCA MINKOFF Spring 2017
The Zelia,
Rebecca Minkoff ’s Spring 2017 look was all about the eyes. Maybelline New York makeup artist Gato and fashion and beauty influencer Amanda Steele created edgy, smokey eyes, then layered on ample coats of the new Falsies Push Up Angel mascara to finish. BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK The Falsies Push Up Angel Waterproof Mascara ($9.49), maybelline.com
WITH SIMON HUCK AT JONATHAN SIMKHAI What’s it like to do NYFW with the Kardashians? It’s mania. What’s really great about all of them is they have a genuine interest in fashion 365 days a year. PRO TIP: Make sure lashes are coated from roots to tips for maximum effect.
Which fad do you want to return? I miss the Von Dutch hats. I used to wear them religiously. I actually saw Kylie wearing one on her Snapchat a couple of weeks ago and I was like, “Yes, Kylie, bring them back!”
G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 6 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F M AT T E / S A M S U N G ( 1 3 ) ; A L L OT H E R S C O U R T E S Y
Did you look at the brand’s archives? F: We did. First of all, we loved the name, which is why
TM
Lori Shabtai, New York City Power Broker – “NEW YORK CITY IS MY TOWN... IT’S THE PLACE WHERE I’VE ALWAYS WANTED TO BE – A City of Passion, Opportunity, Excitement, Dreams, Hard Work and Magic. At Town Commercial, we work hand in hand with our Customers, Tenants, Landlords, Developers, Investors and their Teams. We study each customer’s business model and precise needs. With ever changing and emerging
neighborhoods, demographics, trends, lifestyles, technology, economy and market conditions- adding lasting value is a science and an art. We approach each area with a deeper understanding of our customer’s needs as well as the needs of their customers, employees and the community. We are committed to success not only for the moment but for the future. NEW YORK CITY, THIS IS MY TOWN. LET’S MAKE IT YOUR TOWN.”
TOWN RESIDENTIAL LLC (“TOWN”) IS A LICENSED REAL ESTATE BROKER, LOCATED AT 33 IRVING PLACE, NEW YORK, NY 10003. REAL ESTATE AGENTS ASSOCIATED WITH TOWN ARE INDEPENDENT CONTRACTORS AND ARE NOT EMPLOYEES OF TOWN. TO FIND A REPRESENTATIVE’S LICENSED AS NAME, PLEASE VISIT: HTTP://TOWNRE.NYC/NAMESEARCH. TOWN FIFTH AVENUE LLC IS A LICENSED REAL ESTATE BROKER AND A SUBSIDIARY OF TOWN.
RUNWAYReport
FASHION CANDY
From the ladylike looks at Altuzarra to the gonzo take on streetwear at Hood By Air, NYFW is generating some pretty irresistible stuff. BY ASHLEY BAKER & PAIGE REDDINGER
Naughty but nice! This season, Joseph Altuzarra drew inspo from David Lynch’s Wild at Heart, and the season’s dominant python print came courtesy of Nicolas Cage’s character, an ex-con whose girlfriend gave him a snakeskin coat upon his release from prison. That notion of romance loomed large, with cherry and lemon motifs, cheery checks, and nipped-waisted jackets creating a heady mix of irresistible fashion. The overall vibe was seriously flirty, but Altuzarra gave his hard-core fans some army green jackets and taut pencil skirts, in the event that they want to temper their bra tops. On the accessories front, Altuzarra’s bag game is stronger than ever, thanks to mixed materials, appliqués, and a new drawstring silhouette that’s already poised for It status.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
GETTY IMAGES
ALTUZARRA
RUNWAYReport
HOOD BY AIR
GETTY IMAGES
Shayne Oliver, our offer to take you to lunch still stands. If we learned anything from your recent New Yorker treatment, it’s that the Hood By Air collective does things entirely on their own terms. Enter the seasonal sponsor, PornHub! To HBA’s credit, the “Hustler” and “Wench” shirts were witty interpretations of the theme, although the Vaseline-smeared faces were a touch more overt. Our faves (really, don't make us pick): the plasticky blue poncho, whose back was emblazoned with “Never Trust a Church Girl,” and the long, sporty overcoats paired with tighty-whiteys and kilts. And the folded shirts that were stuffed inside oversize, offkilter suiting? A sublime shot in the arm.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Life. Inside and out. NOW LEASING ELEGANT MODERN RESIDENCES 100 W 31 St ° 212 899 3131 eosnomad.com
DWELLING UNITS INCLUDE FEATURES FOR PERSONS WITH DISABILITIES REQUIRED BY THE FHA . ALL DIMENSIONS ARE APPROXIMATE AND SUBJECT TO CONSTRUCTION AND FIELD VARIATION .
CHICMoments
Jessica Williams
OPENING CEREMONY Everyone from comedians Ali Wong and Aidy Brant to actresses and celebs like Natasha Lyonne and Whoopi Goldberg took to the stage for OC’s “Pageant of the People.” Each encouraged the crowd to vote, and voiced their views on such topics as feminism, the refugee crisis, and LGBT rights. If that sounds a bit heavy for a fashion show, the gravitas was tempered by comedic MC’s Carrie Brownstein and Fred Armisen. As for the retro clothes? They were inspired by photos of Carol Lim’s and Humberto Leon’s parents that were taken around the time they immigrated to the United States. And the collection will be for sale in just two weeks’ time!
BEAUTY TREND ALERT!
ALLOVER GLOW
By Yadim for MAYBELLINE NEW YORK
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Natasha Lyonne
ZIMMERMANN Nicky Zimmermann called this season’s collection “Stranded.” Why? “It was the name of a nightclub I used to go to when I was pretty young. I used to drive in from the suburbs,” said Zimmermann. “I’d make my own clothes to go there. It sort of cemented what I wanted to do.” Indeed, Zimmermann’s romantic fare was given an ever so subtle dose of badgirl flair. There were hints of a bondage theme on crop tops and grommet details, plaid mixed with lace, and Aussie model Fernanda Ly’s pink hair paired with a wispy floral dress and oversize menswear coat leaned toward contradicpunk. “I love the contradic tion of super pretty and tough,” said Zimmermann. Her personal favorites were the lace dresses in dark peach and the steel-colored kneeadmithigh boots, which she admit ted were a nightmare to get on. Pain for beauty, chéris!
BEAUTY TREND ALERT!
LIGHTLY LINED EYES
GETTY IMAGES; FIRSTVIEW
By Jodie Boland for MAYBELLINE NEW YORK
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
FURRYFriends
EVOLUTION OF CHIC From celebrities to fashionettes to working women who rely on quality shoes, Stuart Weitzman’s realityfriendly footwear is a hit with women of all stripes. Three years after the launch of his hit sandal the Nudist, the designer has introduced a mink-trimmed version that's proving to be just as popular. Ready to show some Bunnylove? BY PAIGE REDDINGER
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
It’s hard to believe that the Nudist was created just three years ago, Stuart. Are you surprised by how iconic it has become? It is the Little Black Dress of the stiletto world among celebrities, fashionistas, and global influencers; it should surprise me, but I knew once we saw it fly off the shelves and onto the many red carpets that we had a winner. What were your reasons for creating this shoe in the first place? I wanted something minimal and bare, yet oh-sosexy that could be worn with anything from dress to casual. Boy, did it deliver. Who was the first to wear it on the red carpet? Diane Kruger, in August 2013. How many red-carpet appearances has it made since? This is a moving target, as the number grows every
week, but thus far, it’s around 900 times. How many do you sell a year? More than I ever imagined. What are the most popular colors? Black, gold, nude, silver. Do you have any clients who own every single pair? Several! What gave you the idea to add fur to the Nudist? I wanted to extend the family, and fun, colorful furry options of mink proved to be the best way. Why did you decide to call that shoe the Bunnylove? When girls picked it up, they seemed to cuddle it like they would a bunny. Gigi Hadid once again stars in your ad campaign. What makes her so lovable? If you get the chance to meet her, you would know and understand why. For me, Gigi is the approachable girl next door who everyone just loves to be around. She is the entire package: beauty, brains, an amazing sense of humor, and a wicked sense of style. What do you consider the key to all your success? I call them the three C’s: craftsmanship, comfort, and cool.
COURTESY
WHAT A KICK The Bunnylove in action, as seen on Gigi Hadid.
GettyImages-Daily-FrontRow-ad.pdf
1
9/8/16
11:36 AM
The premium imagery source for
New York Fashion Week September 2016 Collections
511142062, JP Yim
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
511084092, Daniel Zuchnik
511229194, Jamie McCarthy
For event coverage information, please contact: Butch Vicencio Account Manager – Photography Assignments Getty Images / WireImage / FilmMagic butch.vicencio@gettyimages.com Office: 646-613-4126 Cell: 215-880-4114 David Pomponio Account Manager – Video Assignments Getty Images / WireImage / FilmMagic david.pomponio@gettyimages.com Office: 646-613-3659 Cell: 646-824-6254 510275778, Dimitrios Kambouris
Edward Enninful Fashion Director
VISIT CRYSTALS-FROM-SWAROVSKI.COM
l r
Laura and Kate Mulleavy Rodarte
VISIT CRYSTALS-FROM-SWAROVSKI.COM
POWERCouple
FUTURE
PERFECT AFTER 14 YEARS IN BUSINESS, PROENZA SCHOULER’S JACK MCCOLLOUGH AND LAZARO HERNANDEZ ARE FIRMLY ESTABLISHED AS ONE OF NEW YORK FASHION WEEK’S UNMISSABLE MOMENTS. BUT DESPITE THEIR COMMERCIAL AND CREATIVE SUCCESSES, THE DESIGNERS REMAIN CHRONICALLY DISSATISFIED. AT THEIR GREENE STREET FLAGSHIP, THEY EXPLAIN WHY. BY ASHLEY BAKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN LIU HAIR AND MAKEUP BY AERIEL PAYNE
What do you think of the “buy now, wear now” model? Jack McCollough: We’re definitely down for switching things up. It’s funny—fashion is supposed to be a sign of the times that’s looking toward the future, and yet the whole system is so antiquated. We’re reevaluating how we do things, and how we put out collections. For example, we’re now holding precollections until they hit stores. Lazaro Hernandez: Streetwear brands seem like they’re kicking everyone’s ass, because they’re so much more contemporary in terms of attitude. Part of that is how they deliver product—in limited runs, with different collections here and there. It’s so regimented. Jack: I don’t know if the “show now, buy now” model would work for us, because when we make something and it’s ready, we need to put it out in the world in that moment. There’s no way we could sit on the collection for five months. We would want to make little tweaks and changes; we would drive our team absolutely bonkers. Lazaro: For us, it’s an attitude, silhouette, and shape, and very much about a moment. I don’t think it would resonate as much six months later. We’ve experimented with “buy now, wear now,” but for us, it doesn’t really make sense. How important is critical feedback to you? From retailers, critics… Jack: Sometimes it’s really important, and other times, we couldn't care less. Retailer feedback is very interesting. On a review level, we take it or leave it. There are certain reviewers who are amazing, and we deeply respect what they have to say. Then, there are people on Instagram… Lazaro: Yeah, but we don’t really care about that. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
When do you feel like the collection is completed? Jack: When we’ve got a couple of hours left, and there’s nothing else we can do… Lazaro: And our team is like, “Stop changing things.” Jack: They’re telling us that we can’t develop a new fabric in Italy when the show is weeks away! We do tend to push and push till the very end. What do you stress out about most? Jack: I was stressing a little bit during our vacation. Lazaro: You were? Jack: Yeah, a little bit. I had things on my mind that weren’t resolved quite yet, and I was itching to sort them out. Lazaro: I sat there swiping through the whole collection, looking at proportions. We have a shared [digital] library that connects to everyone on our team, so the whole collection and all the fitting pictures are on our iPad. Jack: You can literally just sketch on top of the photo—for example, that collar felt a little wrong, the size was off, etc. So we sketch the lines, and then e-mail the photo back to our team, so they can start tweaking it. It’s nice when you step back and take a break from it so you can come back in, and all of a sudden, certain things are very clear. Lazaro: Spring is the best because you have so much time. Jack: It’s like seven months, from February to September! Fall is such a tricky one for us, especially with the amount of development that we do on a fabric and materials level. Lazaro: It tends to be a more vicious collection, because there are coats and materials that are a bit richer. It sucks that the time frame is so short, but we get it done.
After all these years of fabric development, you must have really strong relationships with the Italian mills. Jack: One of the Como mills, in particular, has become like family—we’re on the phone constantly, and we hang out off-hours. They can kind of do anything you dream up, and they are down to do it. There are some mills that make amazing fabrics but are afraid to develop. Lazaro: A lot of the development is done by our inhouse team; there are a lot of other people besides just a fabric mill who are involved in the process of making the garment. This year we have pieces being made in Bolivia, Italy, Paris, India, L.A., and New York. Jack: And some garments have to go to all of those countries in order to get to the final steps. Logistically, it’s quite a process. How did you build this team of people to help realize your vision? Jack: We started 14 years ago now, with one intern who is now the head of our production. Barneys bought our senior collection; we didn’t know what the hell we were doing. Shirley Cook would come over after work and help us sort things out. We then started buying fabrics; we didn’t know what to do with the receipts. She became our CEO, and we just slowly started taking people on as the company has grown. It’s been really grass roots in a lot of ways— it’s not like we got this huge injection of cash in the very beginning. It was a slow building process. In addition to your New York boutiques, you’ve opened several stores in Asia. How did that come about? Lazaro: The minute you open a brick-and-mortar store, all these licensees kind of see that. We signed deals with Shinsegae and Club 21, which are two big distributors in Asia, and they’ve been opening stores
A STRONG STANCE (From left) Lazaro Hernandez, model Selena Forrest, and Jack McCollough.
T
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
POWERCouple in different markets and handling press and brand awareness. We’ve had stores in Thailand, Japan, South Korea, Guam, and Hong Kong. Jack: We were in South Korea recently; we went to Japan a few months ago. I love Asia, especially Japan. I was born there and lived there for a couple of years, so it’s interesting to go back. I went to visit my old house, back in the day, in Tokyo. My dad was working there doing investment banking, so my little brother and I were born there. Then he started working in New York, so we transferred back. I grew up in New Jersey. Is opening up stores in New York more of a marketing endeavor? Jack: It’s also a great way for people to see the collection in its entirety. We’re able to curate pieces we feel strongly about, so we offer the showpieces that you’re not going to see everywhere else. Lazaro: It’s a great marketing tool— they get to see the entire world of Proenza and experience the entire collection full blast, not just the cherry-picked items from stores. What do you make of all the changes in the big fashion houses? Lazaro: Especially here in New York, this season feels pretty weird—no Calvin, no Donna Karan shows. I feel like our generation is the establishment now. Jack: We are by no means the establishment, either—we are definitely somewhere in between. Lazaro: It’s an interesting time for American fashion, and fashion in general. The world is moving in a very different way; social media and the Internet have changed the way everything is done. Jack: There are so many more designers than ever before. If you don’t have a vision that’s true to what you do and doesn’t step on anyone else’s toes, you’re going to fall through the cracks. People will forget about you. Lazaro: If we would have started [the brand] today, I don’t think we would have been doing what we do. I feel like the stakes are so much higher—you can’t f**k up anymore. When we started, we were kids; it was more of a big, ongoing party for a few years. Jack: We’d miss interviews. Editors would come in, and we’d be sleeping on the floor because our alarm didn’t go off. It was just a different time. Now things are much more serious, even for the young, emerging kids. How do you guys keep pushing yourselves creatively? Jack: We get a little bored. We like to immerse ourselves in one idea, and once we’ve done that, we ask ourselves, what else could we explore? Lazaro: It’s ADD and curiosity—we do it, we hate it, and we move on and we want to make it better the next time. We are never like, “Oh, that’s great,” because once you think like that, you stop pushing yourself and you stop trying to attain perfection. Jack: It’s not until a couple of seasons have passed that we can look at some of our designs, because we’re so wrapped up in the minutiae of the whole thing. Are your archives stored in a basement FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
warehouse somewhere? Jack: Yeah, in our building, every collection we’ve ever had! We’ve never been down there. One day we’ll check it out. For the time being, we’re staying away. Do you have any interest in doing menswear? Jack: We’ve talked about it with no immediate plans to do so. We want to do it even on a more selfish level. If we did menswear, it would be more focused on everyday basics, similar to how we dress. We’d develop some sneakers, jeans, sweaters, T-shirts— maybe a slightly different price point. Have you ever been tempted to work at a big fashion house? Jack: It would be interesting to apply what we do to another house with different codes and maybe a longer history. Few people have managed to do two brands successfully at the same time. I can’t imagine cutting in half the amount of work, love, and attention we put into what we do now. So for the time being, we are here; but it is tempting. We’ve been approached by a number of people. There are houses with amazing histories and unlimited resources. On a creative level, we could really push ourselves to a crazy level. How did the PS1 bag change things for you? Lazaro: It was game-changing. People are buying more casual clothes now, but they still buy designer bags. You can be wearing a T-shirt, jeans, and flipflops, but if you’re carrying a designer bag, somehow, it’s all good. The fact that we have strong leather goods has been a saving grace for us. The company keeps growing, and the handbags are a big part of that. We launched the PS1 in 2008, right before the crash—thank God. Jack: It was our least commercial collection ever, and that bag saved everything. You’re known for spending much of your time
“IT WOULD BE INTERESTING TO APPLY WHAT WE DO TO ANOTHER HOUSE WITH DIFFERENT CODES AND MAYBE A LONGER HISTORY.” together. But when you each get alone time, where do you go? Jack: We always go back to our [respective] parents’ houses for Christmas. Lazaro: We’ve never spent Christmas together, ever. What’s happening up at your home in the Berkshires? Jack: We do a lot of work up there! We built a studio, and we go there for 10 days and sketch for 12 hours a day. It’s a great place to get into your head, and get away from all the noise, meetings, telephones, and e-mails. We’ve been up there for eight or nine years now, and people have slowly started getting houses in our area, so we’ve got a little community of friends who live up there. Lazaro: Restoring our old house from the 1700s is like another aesthetic process. We can’t stop doing projects. Jack: We’re not good at having a weekend off and sitting around on the couch watching TV. I like getting my hands dirty, pushing a wheelbarrow around, and doing some manual labor. It’s amazing to feel the earth and run around barefoot. ß
FREQUENTFlier
BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY Known for her one-of-a-kind knits, creatively sourced fabrics, and far-flung sensibilities, New York’s own Ulla Johnson is quietly turning her dreamy universe into a global sensation. BY ASHLEY BAKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO Your showroom is gorgeous. Light is incredibly important to me. I have a particular affinity for this neighborhood, although pretty much everyone who works here lives in Brooklyn, myself included. I grew up in Manhattan, so I still think of myself as a Manhattan girl. The city very much informs not just my character, but also the FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
spirit of the collection. A lot of people ask if I’m from California; there’s a sense of ease in what we do that people associate with a West Coast lifestyle. A nomad vibe is very deeply rooted in the collection and me—my parents are archaeologists and I grew up living in the Middle East and traveling all over the world. When did you launch your collection? I launched it initially in 2000, but there were breaks in the middle—essentially, I almost took that middle 10 years off. I was still connected to it and doing certain things—I had friends who had stores and supported the brand, but it was in a very different way. After my third child was born in 2012, I knew that was the end of having kids, and I became reinvigorated about the brand. When she was just 2 months old, I went to Peru for the first time to work with the knitting communities. Everybody thought
that was insane, but we had the most incredible experience, and it was a turning point as far as the business. So I started to do a lot more international sourcing, and going back to my roots to reference the experience of a traveler. Has your point of view been consistent throughout your career? Certain things have been touchstones for me since the beginning, such as the integrity of the materials and the craftsmanship. I’ve always wanted to create an heirloom quality in the pieces; I study what the garment looks like when the woman is walking away. Embroidery, embellishment, custom knits— your pieces have a lot going on. How do they all come together? I love mixing prints, embroideries, and fabrications. Of course, there’s always a unified color story and
COURTESY
SPRING FLING For Spring ’17, Johnson showed sorbet shades alongside floral dresses, lacetrimmed blouses, and utilitarian pants.
some thread of connectivity. As we’ve started to introduce more expensive items in our collection, the collection has actually grown. We aren’t a massive, multinational brand that’s beholden to analysis of our bottom line, so we have a lot of freedom with our pricing structure. We don’t eliminate much in the production process—I always end up saying, “Let’s make it more beautiful.” I think that it’s possible to do beautiful things at a fair price, and that’s what I’ve always wanted to do. Even as it’s become more expensive and we’ve entered into a whole new category—with respect to certain parts of our collection and the more ornate things. We can make
a simple cotton blouse, as well as something that’s very elaborate. The juxtaposition is key to what we do. How often do you travel? There was a time when I was going to India and Peru each three times a year, plus one or two other new destinations. That became extremely taxing. Now, everyone on the design and production teams travel internationally about four times a year, and I’ll go somewhere like India for just two days. I’m unbelievably efficient. We’re interested in expanding into Portugal, and there’s a lot of knitting and leather weaving happening in Serbia. I’m looking to produce certain things in some of the villages that my ancestors lived in. That spirit of travel is so important to not just the inspiration, but also the actual manufacturing process. We’ve had support from NGOs and local governments who are looking to foster their countries’ traditional crafts. What were you like as a teenager? I was a very bookish when I was small, but in high school, I turned my back on all that. I was a total city kid, roaming the streets and hanging out in the Sheep Meadow in Central Park. I was really into hip-hop. I left New York after that, because I felt like I needed to get out of the city to focus on my academic pursuits. Although fashion was my total passion, my parents were against having an education that was narrow in that sense. I’m really thankful for that—I studied psychology and women’s studies, both of which inform the way that I design as well. How do you spend your downtime? I hate being in the city on weekends, so we go to Montauk, but everybody’s there now, so we pick our way around the perimeter. We like the sleepy beaches—my husband surfs, and my kids are sporty—and we have friends over to grill. What’s in store for Spring ’17? I traveled to Uruguay, and I was completely blown away by the prairie feeling. The endless skyline, the horses, that pasture openness…and within that, I became obsessed with all the equestrian stores and gaucho gear. The idea of structure really spoke to
“I WAS VERY BOOKISH WHEN I WAS SMALL, BUT IN HIGH SCHOOL, I TURNED MY BACK ON ALL THAT.” me—the way voluminous pants and leather jackets are worn with whimsical lace and fringe. That South American prairie story became connected to northern cowboy Americana vibe. I love utilitarian fabrics and Victorian lace, and we took a lot of those tropes of prairie life and masculinity and did them with a very soft hand. Within that, there was this idea of movement; with the riding, I was thinking about dancers, so there’s a sense of movement and frilliness as well. What have been some of your challenges as the business grows? We can’t keep up with the demand at this point, because fully handmade pieces don’t get made faster when you make more of them—the process actually gets slower. You have to train many more people. Controlling growth is another challenge—we have a lot of partners who are interested, and it’s wonderful and flattering, but we need to continue to build out our story in a measured way. It’s easy to get caught up in the potential expansion, but sometimes, designers lose their way and lose sight of the product. I still try on every single garment and sit in every fitting, so I can’t spend my day in strategy meetings! ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
NEXTGen
LIFE WITH LEVI For Levi Dylan, music is in his blood. But these days, the native Angeleno is preparing for a very big future in modeling and acting. Can someone please book this guy a Saint Laurent campaign already? BY SYDNEY SADICK PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM LAIRD Where are you living these days? I moved to New York in 2015, and then went back to L.A. in the beginning of 2016 because I realized that New York is a really expensive place to live. But I might have made a mistake—I didn't really love being in L.A. as much as I enjoy being here. So now I’m a transient figure going between the two places, but I’m never in between! How often do you go back and forth? Every couple of weeks. As soon as I run out of money here, I go back to L.A. There’s a lot of opportunity in both places, and a lot of great people who want to help me. I can use all the help I can get! What are you working on now? Some acting stuff. It’s a very foreign world to me, but I enjoy it. I feel like I put on a show, and it makes me happy. I’m going on auditions mainly for short films. I like taking baby steps—I don’t want to step into anything I can’t handle right now. What triggered your interest in acting? Movies. Watching them makes me want to play characters. L.A. is an actors’ playground. Why did you move to New York? I needed to get out of Los Angeles. After a while, it’s so stagnant. When you live there year-round, you can get a little frustrated, so I came here to find a
SHELTER FROM THE STORM Dylan in Greenwich Village.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
quicker pace. I’m very lethargic and tired when I’m in L.A. I think it’s a good place to go when you’ve “done it.” New York wakes me up! It’s called the concrete jungle, and that’s what you get. You’re on the Wilhelmina board and have been photographed for magazines like Teen Vogue and Wonderland. Is modeling still in the cards? Those guys are really tall! I’m not as tall as most models, and that’s fine, but I might not fit into the criteria as well as they do, so I don’t make it a huge part of my life. But when the opportunity presents itself, I find it interesting, and I like to do it. Have you walked in a Fashion Week show? Once, for Billy Reid. I don’t think I’ll ever do it again, but it was nice. That walk is intense! You’d be surprised; it’s a skill. Those guys are good at it— I was a little wobbly! But I do what feels right for me. A lot of it doesn’t, and I don’t have to do those things. Who’s your posse in New York? My girlfriend. I don’t need anybody else. We’re both from L.A. I don’t like going out with [New Yorkers] trying to tell me what and where everything is. I’d rather just find it myself, so we explore. But in L.A., I’ll hang out with all my friends from high school [New Roads School, in Santa Monica]. What’s your favorite neighborhood in New York? I mostly stay downtown. Architecturally, I really like Soho, but most recently I’ve been spending time in the East Village, which I didn’t do much of before. It’s upbeat and close to Brooklyn, which I don’t love, but I can get there quickly! You came to our Luxury Is Love party in the Hamptons. Was that your first time? Yeah, and it was a nice place to be! Everything is green, which was nice to see, because everything’s dead in L.A. And it was nice to see that people were happy out there! I’d maybe go crazy if I were out there longer than a weekend—it seems a little bit out of touch and unrealistic—but it seemed nice. I’d love to go back. How do you describe your personal style? I wear a lot of black clothing. I like boots—I don’t wear a lot of tennis shoes—and I like to go to thrift stores to find cool stuff that nobody else has. I don’t know what people did in the clothing before I wore it though—sometimes I think about that. Everything else is too expensive. But I love the way The Clash dressed, so maybe it’s a mix of my personal taste and theirs. I’m somewhere in the middle. Go-to thrift stores? Jet Rag in L.A.; here, Beacon’s Closet and Search and Destroy (on St. Marks Place). Who are your favorite designers? Saint Laurent. You have some cool tattoos. They’re awful! I have five or six, but I can’t wait to get them off. I’m hoping that at some point in the future I’ll be able to walk into CVS and get tattoo removal cream. I think that’s coming up, I really do,
so I’m waiting for that. What are you career goals? I just want to make work that I can look back and reflect on, and be proud of. For me, New York City is very inspiring. It’s vibrant and there’s a lot of artistry. How about your passions? I like going to art galleries. I’m young and my friends are young, but they have somehow figured out a way to have art galleries. People like Jackson Pollock and Damien Hirst are good, but I don’t have a favorite artist. I have white walls at home, which are very boring, so I bought a bunch of paint and started painting things on them. Any music aspirations? I love music, but as far as a career goes, no. But I do love to listen to music. I’ve been listening to a lot of Allen Toussaint. He passed away last year; he was legendary. Did you ever dabble in it? I did. I was in a band called Dreamers Dose; I played bass. We were really good. You guys would’ve loved it! But then I stopped because I wasn’t as interested as people thought I would be. I just grew out of it. The guys who I played with musically surpassed me and I stopped trying. We finished off with a big show in around 2013 with like 2,500 people, which
“AS SOON AS I RUN OUT OF MONEY HERE, I GO BACK TO L.A. THERE’S A LOT OF OPPORTUNITY IN BOTH PLACES, AND A LOT OF GREAT PEOPLE WHO WANT TO HELP ME.” was cool. I got a lot out of it, and I keep it with me. Do people ever say you resemble your grandfather, Bob Dylan? No, but they say I look like my dad [Jakob Dylan]. What does your grandfather think about your career? We don’t talk about that kind of stuff. We prefer to talk about things that aren’t that. He’d definitely be pretty supportive. Any secrets? I’m a really good basketball player; I take it to the streets! I was on the Little Lakers—not the Lakers you guys know about—and played everywhere. I like playing at the Venice boardwalk. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
STAR Power
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Looking to make the jump to start your own fashion business? Set your DVR to Project Runway: Fashion Startup, which premieres October 20 on Lifetime. The unscripted show pairs industry titans like Gary Wassner with budding entrepreneurs as they pitch their concepts for the chance to secure precious funds from the experts. The esteemed panel fills us in on what to look out for, and why you won’t see any Simon Cowell–like behavior. BY EDDIE ROCHE
COURTESY
EXPERT OPINION
FEARSOME FOURSOME (From left) Katia Beauchamp, Gary Wassner, Rebecca Minkoff, and Christine Hunsicker.
MAKING MOGULS
BEAUTY BEAT
What’s the scoop on the show? The show is an eye into the fashion start-up world. I would call it an entertaining lesson on how to determine the value and potential of a start-up, fashion-related brand. From the brand side, it tells you what you need to know if you want to raise money, and from the investor side, it tells you what you need to ask if you want to become a part of this industry. It’s fun, nervewracking, real, and challenging all at the same time. Had you ever done television? This was my very first experience. I had no trepidations. Why did you want to do it? Actually, at first I didn’t. When I was originally asked by the Weinstein Co. whether I’d take the meeting, I just assumed I was being approached to be a consultant on the show. I was not really thinking about actually being on it. It kind of took me by surprise. Afterward, I went back to my office and thought about the offer for quite a while. Then I talked to my wife and my sons, and to my friends Tom Leonardis and Whoopi Goldberg. They all convinced me to do it. The reality is that I love what I do professionally every day, and I perceived this show to be a natural extension of just that. I had confidence that I was dealing with the best producers and a great network. How would you describe your role on the show? Clearly, I’m the oldest of the four investors by far, and I’m the only male in the group. I already finance and invest in fashion for a living, so I assumed I’d be the seasoned, fatherly one. The fact is, we were all peers in every way but age. My fellow investors were all awesome—so smart and perceptive. The big difference was that I’ve done this so many times before, with so many designers and brands over the years, that the questions I needed to ask were second nature to me. I’m oriented to an omnichannel fashion market and model already, not only a direct-to-consumer or digital market. I have an old-school tool box as well as a modern one. I still believe strongly in the wholesale marketplace, an area some of my fellow investors do not. What surprised you about the entrepreneurs? The entrepreneurs ran the gamut from highly prepared to totally uninformed. I was pleasantly surprised by the commitment and thoughtfulness many of them expressed. And I was disappointed by the lack of insight some others expressed. Some thought
Why did you decide to go on the show? I am excited by the entrepreneurial fervor that is becoming a new normal. I also appreciate that we were very fortunate to receive advice and feedback, early on. I want to pay that forward. On top of that, the group of judges were all people I admired; I knew I could learn from them. Was it difficult to give out advice? No. I'm opinionated and I really enjoy engaging with people about their ideas and points of view. For the past several years, I have met with just-gettingstarted entrepreneurs, and I love learning about the insights and opportunities that drive their vision, encouraging them to go and get what they need, as well as challenging them with questions that I hope help make them stronger. What’s the best advice you give young entrepreneurs starting a business? Think about your unique point of view. What is your vision? Why does this business need to exist? What is the value to the customer? Then come up with a simple way to test the idea and prove your hypotheses. Don't spend a ton of time perfecting the business plan—dive right in and get started. Ultimately, embrace your naïveté—it can give you the freedom to take risks and tackle massive opportunities. Do you have any previous experience working in television? I always enjoy the thrill of live TV interviews when I go on-air to discuss Birchbox, but this type of TV experience is brand-new to me. It's been fascinating to see what's involved in making it all come together.
With Gary Wassner, CEO of Hilldun Corporation and chairman of Interluxe Holdings LLC
“ WE’RE NOT ACTORS, AND NOTHING WAS SCRIPTED. WE’RE INVESTING OUR OWN TIME AND MONEY.” it would be easy to come before us with asks that were totally outrageous, and others were very modest in their asks. I was looking for honesty and integrity along with a wonderful product. I needed to be convinced that any potential partner would be collaborative and reasonable. I’m not interested in working with people I don’t like or won’t enjoy helping build a great business with. And I wasn’t going to invest in anything or anyone I didn’t believe in or didn’t feel I could really assist. Give us a hint about what we should expect from the show. None of us are mean or insulting. Rather, we’re realistic and we ask realistic questions. I’m hoping viewers will realize immediately that the four of us are actual people operating in the real world of fashion, beauty, and business. We’re not actors, and nothing was scripted. We’re investing our own time and money in these start-up companies, and the deals we make really matter to the entrepreneurs. I think many people who tune in will aspire to be on the show in the future and have a chance to get in front of us and convince us they’re a great investment. They will see immediately some of what it takes to make it in this industry. Who was the toughest one? I suspect the audience will consider Christine to be the toughest one. She really did drill some of the entrepreneurs on their numbers and projections. And her “investor” vocabulary was extremely proficient. ß
With Katia Beauchamp, the cofounder and CEO of beauty retailer Birchbox
TOUGH QUESTIONS
With Christine Hunsicker, founder and CEO of plus-size clothing rental start-up Gwynnie Bee How would you sum up the show? Shark Tank meets Project Runway! How did you end up on it? Gwynnie Bee was initially approached to sponsor a component of the show. After speaking with the producers, the production team ended up inviting me to be on the panel. What’s the chemistry like with the other judges? The four of us are all very different, but I think that we enjoyed and appreciated that our strengths complemented one another. We genuinely had a really great time together. The best part for me though were the conversations that we had off-camera talking shop. It was a great group to be a part of. How would you describe your role on the show? Well, other than being the “direct one”... I wanted to ask questions that quickly got to the heart of the business being pitched. Ultimately, I wanted to challenge the entrepreneurs to think differently about their businesses.
TOUGH LOVE
With Rebecca Minkoff, designer
POWER PANEL (From top) Katia Beauchamp, Christine Hunsicker, and Rebecca Minkoff.
What convinced you to sign up for the show? I ultimately decided to join because of all the people I would get to meet every day. I wanted to have the chance to support and inspire in a way that I haven’t before. How would you describe your role? I’m the tough-lover, but I really, really root for them. What are the entrepreneurs like? What struck me the most was how incredibly brave they were. It’s not an easy thing to do, to get up there and pitch what you’re putting your heart and soul into every day, and to possibly have it criticized or torn apart and be given brutally honest feedback. Was it hard being tough on them? Sometimes, but I would have done them an injustice if I wasn’t direct. Getting sugarcoated feedback isn’t going to be very helpful. Why should we tune in? You’re going to learn so much! So many of the ideas that were brought to us were unbelievably exciting and ingenious. There’s something for everyone. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
BESTDressed
SHARPER IMAGE Designer Ramy Brook Sharp is renovating her expanding NYC showroom and presented her first runway show at City of Hope this year.
STYLE SAVANT First things first: Let’s talk Spring collection! It was time for us to expand our collection to grow the brand and expand our current categories: tops, dresses, more pants, more skirts. Ramy Brook does full, complete outfits. We’re also getting a good reaction to our knits, so we’re expanding there, and we decided to add some novelties that are unique to the collection, and some cool suede pieces. The overall feel of spring is romantic and bohemian, with the perfect dress for dinner and great nighttime tops. There’s still a sexy feel but sophisticated. How do the pieces build a wardrobe? When we start designing the pieces, we think about how to create full Ramy Brook looks, whether that’s designing a dress, or if it’s a top, I want to see it with great pants or a great skirt—I want to see it with something that matches. This way, the customer doesn’t have to think too hard and can wear the full look. And they can make it their own with accessories. You’ve been busy renovating your showroom. We tore down a lot of walls. [Laughs.] We took over another office in our current space. Right now it’s not fully decorated, but it looks really pretty for market. Orange is one of our colors, and we like to use brass to go with our logo and mimic what’s in the store. My sister-in-law is the contractor—she does Nordstrom and all the Restoration Hardware stores—and she’s unbelievable. We also hired an architect to come up with unique pieces. How is the brand expanding this season? We’re always looking into expanding our retail channels. Right now we have one brick-and-mortar and we have a shop in shop at Kyle By Alene Too. That relationship began when I started the business in Boca [Raton, Florida], and they’ve expanded to Palm Beach, Southampton, and they’re soon opening on
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
the Upper East Side. We’re going to take up part of the store. The Upper East Side is my world! When I first started, we did trunk shows in a lot of people’s apartments, so we have a big following there. You recently won City of Hope’s Spirit of Life Award. What was that like? It was such an honor! City of Hope is a hospital based in California that helps patients with cancer. They asked me to be an honoree along with Sandra Lee and Essie Weingarten. That was a big deal! We were all honored for our work in philanthropy. I was introduced by Rosanna Scotto; Jill Biden introduced Sandra Lee; and Hoda Kotb introduced Essie. It was a really great group of women. And it was my first time doing a fashion show! How’d the fashion show go? The program was centered around the show, which was buy-now, wear-now. We did a lot of our classic pieces—the Allyn pants, the Paris top—and we made a dress specifically for the City of Hope called the Valentina dress. We partnered with Saks, and a percentage of sales went to City of Hope. They raised the most money they’ve ever raised. It was a packed house, sold-out tickets. I was nervous but pleasantly surprised by how well it went. I really didn’t know what to expect, but we had a great stylist and a great producer, and everyone understood it was for a charity. I’m also being honored at another event, RENS, in October. It’s a basketball team for children in New York who can’t afford an education, so RENS helps provide tutors and anything to help them be better students. We received a video invitation to your presentation this year. We are trying to break through all the clutter. People find the story behind my business interesting—how I designed my pieces with a real need in mind. I like
Ramy Brook Sharp is unstoppable: After putting on her first runway show for City of Hope, the designer is expanding her showroom, digital presence, New York team, and ultimately, her chic fan base. BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN LIU to tell the story, but unfortunately, I’m not able to tell everyone! We thought a video card inviting people to the showroom would be a great way to get their attention. It’s a little over four minutes and it shows the making of Ramy Brook, who I am as a person, and it’s relatable to a lot of stores and their customers. We also sent it to department store managers so they could learn the story and better sell the product. Any collaborations coming up? Funny you ask! We just had a great meeting yesterday with the EVP of marketing for Bravo. The costume designer of Girlfriends’ Guide to Divorce is a big fan of Ramy Brook, and a lot of the characters wear it. What are your favorite Bravo shows? I love Odd Mom Out, and it’s always fun to watch all the Housewives shows. Who do you love seeing wear Ramy Brook? Kate Beckinsale—she loves wearing our stuff and always looks great. Julianna Margulies pulled some pieces, and I love that Cindy Crawford wears it. I’d be thrilled to see Beyoncé, Taylor Swift, and Rihanna! How is your aesthetic developing? It’s always been a lot of tops, but people started to say, “That would look so great as a dress.” So a lot of tops evolved into other garments. And there were lifestyle pieces missing, like jumpsuits, pantsuits. It expanded into everyday items. We did this great army jacket with jewels, and on the back there are three words that describe our customer: happy, sexy, strong. We really grew the whole collection. The very next step is to build our website, and work with bloggers and other people who can help build out our social media. We have a new team, and they come from Estée Lauder and Free People, so that’s a big part of the growth of our business. Already, we’re seeing an increase in followers and newsletter subscriptions. ß
Suite 2203 40 year single malt scotch Dark Chocolate Truffles Oversized soaking tub Backstage access at Carnegie Hall Blank sheet music
ONE OF MORE THAN 36 EXQUISITE HOTELS WORLDWIDE. FOR RESERVATIONS PLEASE VISIT PARKHYATTNEWYORK .COM #LUXLIST
SECONDAct
FRESH VISION After 14 years at CBS and a decadelong tenure as editor-in-chief of the network’s Watch! magazine, Jeremy Murphy is off and running with his boutique customized media agency, 360bespoke. The plan: a more elegant approach to PR for the glossy set.
Tell us about your new agency, 360bespoke. I was at CBS for 14 years, and lots of friends in beauty, fashion, and the arts would ask me to help them with PR on the side. I’d give them advice and write press releases, but I could never do it full time. So the chorus grew louder and louder. I turned 40, the magazine celebrated its 10th anniversary, and I thought it was a great time to spread my wings and start something new. What’s behind the name? 360bespoke offers the whole media perspective—PR, marketing, branding, content development, crisis communication, social media, media training. It’s bespoke because we give very customized personal attention. We call our clients our “collection.”
“IT’S BESPOKE BECAUSE WE GIVE VERY CUSTOMIZED PERSONAL ATTENTION. WE CALL OUR CLIENTS OUR ‘COLLECTION.’” FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Who are your clients? We’re very privileged to have a first-class roster and a really good mix of clients. We’ve got Charlie Siem, the violinist, who was the face of Dior. We have Johannes Huebl, a huge model and social media star. He’s married to Olivia Palermo, and they’re a great power couple. We've also got model Robert Konjic—Tom Ford discovered him for Gucci. Robert and Julia Roitfeld have a child together, so he was in Carine’s world for a while. We have Jeff Leatham, who is a celebrated artistic director of the George V in Paris. He’s like the florist to the stars; he did Madonna’s wedding, Tina Turner’s wedding, and Chelsea Clinton’s wedding. We have another model, Iestyn Davies. He’s a British countertenor, huge opera star. I think he’s one of 10 people in the world who can hit any note. We have one fashion brand, Vicomte A., which is like the Ralph Lauren of Europe. It’s very lifestyle-oriented. And who’s on staff? I have a fantastic partner, Faith Zuckerman; she was at Fine Line, New Line as a publicist, then at William Morris as a publicist, and was an agent at Gersh [talent agency]. Then Faith went to the Arnell Group and did product integration. She’s been a friend for years. My other partner, Joe Wilson, was with me at CBS.
CHIC COLLECTION (Above) Floral designer Jeff Leatham, Cornelia Spa at The Surrey, and singer Iestyn Davies are a few of 360bespoke’s clients. (Below) Faith Zuckerman, Joseph Wilson, and Ashley Cooper are part of Murphy’s team.
He’s my little protégé; I call him the ninja because he can do anything. We have another brilliant partner, Ashley Cooper. He’s in London—most of our clients are overseas. In L.A. we’ve just brought on Steven Holt as a consulting director of luxury, travel, and hospitality; he was the head of PR for the Ritz Carlton in the Americas. We also have a great advisory board, including Cathie Black. What will be your first projects? Our start date is October 1. Deborah Mitchell—who does facials for the royal family—created a skin cream called Heaven and is bringing her products to the U.S. Johannes is going to be at NYFW and LFW. And Jeff Leatham just added the Four Seasons in Beverly Hills to his portfolio. Given all of your experience, what are you finding that people want today? The pendulum is swinging back to a thoughtful, more elegant approach. Social media is about who can scream the loudest, and a lot of people are sick of that. The 24-hour media cycle has become the 24-second media cycle. It’s hard for companies and artists to get through. It’s incumbent on us to create strategies that speak to brands in a way that turns down the noise and gives people a way to be thoughtful and sophisticated. ß
COURTESY
BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER
CAPTURE ART. FAME. FASHION. EVERYTHING.
321 W 14TH ST, NEW YORK, NY 10014 646.638.2000 @PATRICKMCMULLAN
PATRICKMcMULLAN.COM
CHICMoments
CATCHING UP WITH MICHAEL KORS
Good to see you out before your show! What should we expect? The theme of the collection is optimism in a world that’s not optimistic. This party is a weird vacation for me. I have to go back to the office, but why not celebrate this? Why did you want to get into wearable technology? I’m a pretty practical designer. I believe that people should be able to get up in their clothes and sit up and still look great. Now we’re at this point where we can give people a glamorous accessory and personalize it and make their life a bit easier. Everything in the past was tacky and lacking in glamour. People don’t just wear a watch to tell time. They want it to look glamorous. Are you a tech geek? I’m not, but anything that allows me to move a little quicker and easier, that’s the best thing in the world. Am I a 7-year-old who you can just hand something to and I’ll figure it out? No! But the Access watch is pretty easy to figure out. I told everyone on my team that I’m not a tech genius and this has to be pretty simple. But our team pulled it together. Thoughts on the outcome? It’s fabulous-looking and makes people’s lives better! Where did you go this summer for fun? I was in the South Pacific, in Bora Bora!
Hanneli Mustaparta
Kristina Bazan Yoyo Cao
Nina Agdal
““I DON’T HAVE A TV IN MY HOUSE OR IINTERNET OR GADGETS. I’M NOT VERY TECHY.” —NINA AGDAL — —N
KORS TIME
Raquel Strada
For the launch of the Michael Kors Access smartwatch, the designer didn’t mess around. On Sunday night, his Soho store hosted a spirited crowd to celebrate the wrist candy, which is part of the brand’s wearable technology accessories line.
GEEK CHIC! WITH MARTHA HUNT
Besides being chic, what’s the function that appeals to you? I like it because you don’t have to have your phone on you all the time. How tech-geeky are you? I’m pretty geeky! I’m a big technology supporter. Who knew? What’s your favorite hour of the day? I’m a night person. I like 11 p.m. What time do you wake up every day? My schedule is so hectic, so it changes from day to day. Tomorrow I’ll be up at 7 a.m. How was your summer? It was very busy! I worked a lot. I went to Cabo.
“I STRUGGLE WITH TH TIME ME MANAGEMENT! MAYBE THIS S WATCH WILL WIILL W ILL HELP ME. I’M ALWAYS A LITTLE LATE. MY FRIENDS ENDS KNOW IT AS SOO JOO TIME! IME! IME! THAT’S HAT’S ABOUT 15 TO 20 MINUTES LATE.” Zendaya
—SOO SOO JOO JOO PARK Camila Morrone Martha Hunt
Sofie Valkiers
COLLAB 411 WITH ZENDAYA
GETTY IMAGES
Soo Joo Park
Harley Viera- Newton Camila Coelho
What was it like working with Michael Kors? He’s the bomb. We went to the Met Gala together, and he’s so cool. We were dancing. He’s great! Are you typically on time? No! I set up times to be ready, and yet I’m always rushing. I try my best! What’s your favorite time of the day? 9 p.m. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What happens when class ends? For us, it’s where opportunity begins. We give our students the skills and resources they need—an expert faculty, internships with top companies, and a constantly growing myriad of connections built on our rocksolid reputation—to turn real experiences into real careers. When they enter the workforce, it’s with a confidence that distinguishes them from their peers. We think BEYOND THE CLASSROOM to prepare our students for success beyond graduation.
LEARN MORE AT LIMCOLLEGE.EDU/BEYOND
16LIM0369_BrandMediaAds_8-30.indd 1
Victoria Dipiazza ‘16 Fashion Merchandising Digital Merchandise Assistant, Women’s Contemporary Saks Fifth Avenue
9/1/16 10:39 AM
PROUD PARTNER OF
#HOWFASHIONTRAVELS See more at lexus.com/NYFW
©2016 Lexus