Daily Front Row

September 14, 2015

GIVENCHY’s Riveting Homage

THE FMAs full Report Inside

Models With Translators

A crazed editor Sounds Off

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STARRY Night

Talk about a moment—on September 10, cognoscenti of fashion gathered at the Park Hyatt New York to toast The Daily Front Row’s third-annual Fashion Media Awards.

Honoring the top talents in their fields, the most major models, editors, creative directors, and others gathered to celebrate their well-deserved honors.

Co-hosts Toni Garrn and Tony Goldwyn FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

R YA N L I U ( 4 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 6 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 9 )

Cory Bond and Alan Cumming

Katie Couric and Laverne Cox Toni Garrn and Tony Goldwyn

David Greenberg

Arlenis Sosa Alan Cumming and Italo Zucchelli

Sofia Coppola Stefano Tonchi and Gigi Hadid

Kristina O’Neill and Anthony Cenname

Stephen Gan

Sara Sampaio Stefano Tonchi and Edward Enninful Vinoodh Matadin and Inez van Lamsweerde Cris Urena

Lindsey Wixson

Eva Cavalli, Goga Ashkenazi, and Inga Rubenstein Lily Aldridge and Andreja Pejic Alex Gonzalez and Michael Clinton

Wiz Khalifa and Janice Min

Anna Kendrick, presenter “I just want to thank whoever did the lineup for putting me after all the models, so I can show them how it’s done.… When Elle turned 21, they kicked it off by having Kanye West perform at their party. My 21st birthday was at a bar in West Hollywood, where I drank coffee brandy with milk in it, which isn’t a thing.... Elle’s 30thanniversary September issue is the biggest issue of any title Hearst has ever published in its 128-year history for the third year in a row.... The way that Robbie Myers weaves together fashion, culture, beauty, and journalism has made it the largest fashion magazine in the world.”

Sofia Coppola, presenter “Growing up, W was the epitome of sophisticated, grown-up glamour, and when I opened the new September issue, it brought back all the excitement of a big glossy magazine filled with beautiful photographs. From Steven Meisel’s beautiful, kitteny cover story to all the very different great stories inside, it’s everything you want a magazine to be. I want to say congratulations to Stefano Tonchi, Edward Enninful, and Lynn Hirschberg and the great team at W for the Best September issue.”

Alan Cumming, presenter “[Vanity Fair’s Caitlyn Jenner cover story] seems the Scoop of the Century, actually. I can’t believe that this time last year, the trans community was still at this cusp of greatness and of discovery. There’s one person at the center of it, and everybody wants to find out more about her.… The level of subterfuge you have to have, and kind of just conniving-ness to keep it a secret...Vanity Fair did this with honesty, and openness, and compassion, and kindness.… It was an amazing story, not just because it was a huge scoop but because it truly changed the world.”

Robbie Myers, Fashion Magazine of the Year, Elle “I’m so happy to accept this award on behalf of our whole editorial staff.... I have to thank Kevin O’Malley, who was so rightly honored here last year as publisher of the year. I want to thank Michael Clinton, who I used to meet all over town for clandestine drinks, way before Hearst was even looking at Elle.... And I have to thank David Carey, who really does understand what motivates all of us here in the room.… And finally, congratulations to all of the honorees tonight.”

Stefano Tonchi, Best September Issue, W “I would love to have [my staff] up here to share with me this honor, but we cannot fit them all on this podium, it will collapse! It is great to see after 40 years—more than 40 years actually, 44 right now I think—W still as a magazine to read, but even more as a multiple platform, digital platform, going strong. So I look forward to many, many more September issues.”

Jane Sarkin, Scoop of the Year, Vanity Fair “Keeping this epic cover a secret was quite an ordeal, as you can imagine.... Without Graydon [Carter], we wouldn’t have had this story. I’d also like to thank Annie Leibovitz, whose unparalleled eye introduced Caitlyn Jenner to the world. And Jessica Diehl, our fashion and style director, for creating a look for Caitlyn that made these photographs instantly iconic.”

GETTY IMAGES (4); PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 7 ) ; R YA N L I U

Jane Sarkin

Italo Zucchelli and Amar’e Stoudemire

Janice Min and Wiz Khalifa Lily Aldridge

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Alan Cumming

Taylor Hill Ivan Bart, Brandusa Niro, and Eddie Roche

S:10.25”

S:13”

Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. ©2015 Maybelline LLC.

Katie Couric, presenter “Laverne Cox has been a singular force in helping the rest of us understand, appreciate, and cheer on members of this often misunderstood community. In fact, she has single-handedly catapulted this issue out of the shadows and into living rooms all across the country.”

Laverne Cox, Maybelline New York “Make It Happen” Award “I started the hashtag earlier this year, #transisbeautiful, and I started that because years ago, when I started my transition, I’d walk down the street, and I’d hear people yell, ‘That’s a man!’ And I would be devastated, because here I was, I finally accepted my womanhood and the world is not reflecting that back on me. It took me years to finally internalize that if someone can look at me and tell that I am transgender that is not only okay—that is beautiful, because trans is beautiful.”

Lucy Yeomans International Fashion Magazine of the Year, Porter “Receiving this award means so much, particularly since we’re only 10 issues in. It really does feel like just yesterday when I went to see my friend Natalie Massenet with an idea for a new global fashion magazine. A few months later, she called me and said, ‘Are you really serious about this? If you are, Net-APorter will back it.’ Winning this award has just been the most massive team effort ever. Huge thanks to Natalie for believing in, and backing our team.”

David Greenberg, presenter “We believe, of course, makeup and transformation and expression is for everyone.

So if you know anything at all about Laverne Cox, you know she embodies that spirit, and then some.... So we’re celebrating Laverne tonight with the ‘Make It Happen’ Award because she’s made so many things happen, not just for herself in her own life, but for so many others, and that I think is worth a great appreciation.”

Helena Christensen, presenter “Since launching Porter in February of last year, Lucy Yeomans has turned it into one of the most talked about and innovative fashion magazines on the newsstands, one that everyone wants to be a part of. It has differentiated itself from other titles since day one by talking in a proud, confident manner about the way smart, fashionable women lead their lives in the world today. Telling the stories in a way that brings us all together. It celebrates all the ups and downs of being a woman today. Porter is beautiful, sophisticated, and modern.”

Maura McGreevy and Emily DiDonato

Cora Emmanuel

Bill Wackermann and Mark Tevis Alex Gonzalez Laverne Cox

Edward Enninful

Sofia Coppola and Stefano Tonchi

Toni Garrn FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

GETTY IMAGES (4); PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 8 ) ; R YA N L I U

@ExpressRunway © 2015 SEPT_2015_TheDaily_1pg_FINAL.indd 1

9/2/15 3:28 PM

Wiz Khalifa, presenter “It was not long ago when the New York fashion world and media thought this when asked about fashion in Los Angeles: There is none.... Janice Min came to Hollywood in 2010 and saw the potential for fashion coverage in an all-new and unique way. With her fashion team led by Merle Ginsberg and Carol McColgin, they brought Hollywood to New York and to Europe, and not the other way around.”

Alex Pettyfer, presenter “Stephen Gan’s quality and effortless elegance creates calmness with the people he works with—that is the experience I had with him. Not to undermine the fact that this man knows exactly what he wants—the true genius is actually how he arrives at that. His positive energy, his laugh, his kindness.... As one of my best friends, I really love you, and I’m very proud of you tonight.”

Anna Cleveland, presenter “Goga Ashkenazi respects fashion as an art and decided to enter the creative world of fashion, and we are so grateful that she did. I had the honor of being asked to represent the brand, and she allowed me to move as if I was a free bird. I think I was channeling her essence, her ambition, her drive, her dedication.

Goga’s design aesthetic is contemporary while being respectful of the great history of the house.”

Janice Min, Best Fashion Issue of a Non-Fashion Magazine, The Hollywood Reporter “We’re thrilled to be recognized for what we’ve done. This award isn’t really for me, but for Merle Ginsberg and Carol McColgin, who are here with me.

They enable The Hollywood Reporter to make its own fashion statement. As a result of their efforts, intelligence, and taste, THR now covers not just the inner workings of Hollywood stylists, but red carpets, fashion, and film festivals, and the economic intersection of two interwoven industries.”

Stephen Gan Men’s Magazine of the Year, VMan “Alex Pettyfer, you embody all the qualities and ideals that VMan should have.… VMan was made for and is about modern guys like you—guys who are smart, worldly, cultured, and artistic, who crave something cooler in men’s fashion and pop culture.

In other words, VMan was made for guys like you and me, who may look like bad guys on the outside, but who are actually all good on the inside. Thank you to all our beloved collaborators.”

Goga Ashkenazi Best Fashion Advertising Campaign, Vionnet “My heart is about to jump out of my chest.… It’s a great honor, and it comes at the best time possible. We much, much needed it, and we’re doing much better with it. I would like to thank my great friend and collaborator, Dylan Don. He is the photographer of this campaign, and he has been my best friend for a while. I don’t think it would have been possible without you. I would also like to thank our creative director, Babeth Djian, who is not here tonight. I would like to thank Anna. Anna Cleveland can move!”

Jessica Diehl and Nacole Snoep Joe Zee Arlenis Sosa and Cris Urena

Ramy Sharp

The Society’s Chris Gay and his models FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

David Cunningham and Brooke Wall

GETTY IMAGES (3); PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 7 ) ; R YA N L I U ( 3 )

R E V O LV E C L O T H I N G . C O M @ R E V O LV E C L O T H I N G

Ivan Bart, presenter “I first met Imran Amed in Paris during the collections.…

I knew by the end of that week this is a person who really loves what we are doing and wanted to communicate it. And isn’t that a great name? The Business of Fashion.

Because through all the glitz and glamour, this is a great business, and it’s an important business. And every night I wait for the e-mail, and I get to read intelligent articles about what all of you are doing, which sets my day for the next day.”

Amar’e Stoudemire, presenter “Anthony Cenname is one of the most versatile, passionate, and talented executives in the history of publishers at WSJ., who has turned it into the advertising powerhouse it is today.…

He is an enthusiastic and confident leader, who understands the dynamics of a highly competitive evolving industry.… Here’s what it all boils down to: Anthony represents the rare combination of thinker, doer, and leader.”

Lily Aldridge, presenter “I feel like I know all of you, because I follow you on Instagram! It’s something I love so much, to be able to reach out to the fans and my friends to see you guys every day and get to follow all your lives around the world. That leads us to the beautiful Taylor Hill. She’s my fellow Victoria’s Secret Angel, and she’s also a really beautiful, sweet, humble, kind soul, and a rising star. She just hit 1 million on Instagram, which is major. I love you, girl.”

Imran Amed Best Digital Destination, The Business of Fashion “If I’m 100 percent honest with you, it feels a bit premature for me to be standing in front of you today. I always thought that this was the kind of honor that you’ve reached toward the end of your career. We are now a team of 30 people spread across London, New York, and Shanghai, with writers all over the world... We don’t have huge salaries, we don’t have the most glamorous offices, but we are doing really meaningful, exciting work.”

Anthony Cenname, Publisher of the Year, WSJ. “I’m a true believer that when you love what you do, you will be successful.... In my nearly 30-year career, I’ve never worked with a more engaged, focused, smart, and passionate team in the business, and that’s both on the business side and the editorial side.

It’s our product and our people that inspire me every day. Every morning when I wake up before I read the newspaper, I pinch myself and say, ‘I have a great job.

I work at the best place with the best people in the business.’ ”

Taylor Hill, Model of the Year, Social Media “I’ve never won anything before and I’ve never given a speech, so sorry if I’m stumbling. This is so incredible, and I thank everybody so much. I want to dedicate this award to all my fans and followers. I love being able to share what I do with the world. It’s so great to have a place where I can have a voice and connect with people.… Of course, I’ll be posting from the event, so everyone go and see it and like it!”

A Special Thanks to Our Sponsors Maybelline New York, Brookfield Place, Moroccanoil, Revolve, TOWN Residential, and Nicolas Feuillatte. We thank you for making the FMAs possible. It was an exceptional, inspiring, and fun evening.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 4 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 2 ) ; R YA N L I U

OPENING MOMENT! With model Lineisy Montero and her darling hairdresser/ translator, Renata Diaz

Lily Aldridge, Doutzen Kroes, Riccardo Tisci, and Joan Smalls

Carine Roitfeld and Lara Stone

YOUR DAILY DOSE

GIVENCHY TURNING 10!

WITH ALEXANDER WANG

DISCUSS

Nicola Peltz

Thoughts on all of this?

It’s awesome! Riccardo is always doing great stuff.

We’re great friends. I’m excited for him to be in New York. We’re having our 10-year anniversary together.

Happy anniversary! What are your plans?

I can’t tell you!

Boo. It’s a busy time for you.

Why did you want to be here?

It’s a very special moment for Ricky. My office is also only two blocks away so, why not? When people really want to do things, Christina Ricci they make time for it.

How did you get everybody to participate in the DoSomething campaign in your store windows?

My incredible team wrangled it. We are all very humbled by all the support that we were able to get from Kim Kardashian and Kanye West, Kate Moss, and so many more.

Margot Robbie

☛ Riccardo Tisci and team used recycled materials to build a runway venue on Hudson River Park’s Pier 26 that resembled something straight out of MoMA. Marina Abramovic collaborated on the September 11th affair, and a note she left to showgoers said, in part, “This event that we are creating is about Julia Roberts forgiveness, inclusivity, new life, hope, and above all, love.” ☛ Jason Wu’s front-row hosted a slew of beauties, as usual. ☛ Kate Spade’s presentation featured more than 30,000 flowers, thanks to a partnership with FTD. “The bees are buzzing!” said Deborah Lloyd.

Nicki Minaj

SCHOOL DAYS!

With Peter Brant

MINI BREAK! With Michael Kors

The scene at Pier 26 You’ve got to be crazed this week!

This is a vacation for me. I’m out of fittings. Honestly, I’m a big D… OVERHEAR admirer of Riccardo. He does wonderful sh Ro t “I though work. As a New Yorker, September 11th is an me so as w ah an sh Ha at th unbelievable day for all of us. Fashion people are er gn si new de tough, and New York is resilient, and here we are I’ve never heard on a gorgeous evening. of.”—A clueless guest at Givenchy Would you ever do a show in Paris?

Never say never, but I’m an all-American boy!

How’s school?

I’m a senior! Harry’s now a freshman at Bard with me.

Are you still majoring in theater?

No, I’m an art history major now.

Why did you give up on acting?

I didn’t give up on it—I couldn’t commit to the acting school with everything I do in the city. I can’t do it all!

Let’s talk Riccardo.

Ricky always has the best ideas. He’s so creative and innovative and fun. He’s full of life. He’s such a visionary.

Congrats on opening the show!

Renata: She was really happy about it because it was so exciting to open a show, but she was so nervous, because it was her first time doing it. It was a bittersweet feeling.

You’re from the Dominican Republic.

Thoughts on NYC? Renata: People in general are similar in the way they treat you, but the architecture here is so different.

How are you learning English?

Renata: She has a program on her computer.

How were you discovered?

Lineisy: (in English) “I was the first At an amusement actress ever to wear park!

On a roller Jason on the carpet. coaster!

At that time I didn’t

JASON WU

“My surfing is not that good. My mom is better than me, but I can stand up!”

know who he was. We became friends, because we’re style soul mates!”—JAIME KING

—BINX WALTON

INSTA MUST!

With Eva Chen at Jason Wu Tell us about the Instagram gig!

I’m putting together fashion partnerships. I’m working with models, designers, and brands to help them, and empower them to tell their stories on Instagram.

Are you figuring this position out as you go?

It’s a new role, but the fashion industry, out of all the industries, does an amazing job at Instagram. Most of the brands know exactly what they’re doing. It’s not like they need a lot of hand-holding.

What’s your new office like?

Very fun and whimsical. There’s a mini conference room, which has made a few cameos on my Instagram.

There’s also a conference room in Menlo Park, California, where everything is sideways. There’s a great music room, where people are jamming out on pianos and guitars. And the food is epic!

Any faves?

Fro yo from Blue Marble in Brooklyn. I’m guilty of hitting that up way more than I should. I’m a big eater to begin with, so this might be hazardous.

ST. BARTHS, ANYONE? With Lindsay Ellingson at Kate Spade Good to see you!

You’re going to ask me what my favorite flower is, right?

Nope! What flowers are you turned off by?

Orchids. They take so much effort to water.

I travel so much—I need a flower keeper.

What’s your favorite florist in New York?

Spruce is great.

We’ll put this in print and get you a discount!

Awesome! Unlimited roses!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

How was your summer?

Great! I went to South Carolina with my husband. August was really busy. We launched our new collection for Wander Beauty this week!

The Daily Summer cover you shot with Gilles Bensimon in St. Barths was gorgeous.

I loved that cover! It was such a fun shoot.

It didn’t even feel like work. It felt like vacation, jumping in the pool every day.

BFANYC.COM (4); FIRSTVIEW (3); GETTY IMAGES (6); ALL OTHERS COURTESY

Kate Spade Spring ’16

#NMdarkside NICOLE MILLER SOHO: 77 GREENE STREET

/

NICOLEMILLER.COM

z u z B Fix

Mx Qwerrrk

Shoe of The Daily

front row Brandusa Niro

Editor in Chief, CEO

Dairy Queens

Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director

David and Phillipe Blond

MARC GOES GLOSSY

The Stuart Weitzman SWxYOU: Thigh’s the Limit customization program featuring the new extreme thigh-high boots, the ALLLEGS and the LEGGYLADY, runs from September 14 through September 30. The limited-edition program gives trendsetters the unique opportunity to reimagine both boots in six stretch-fabric colors. The statement-making stocking boots graze the upper-thigh, which makes them the perfect finishing touch to leather shorts or a Mod minidress.

Available exclusively at the Stuart Weitzman store on Fifth Avenue in NYC or at stuartweitzman.com, delivered in 8–10 weeks, $798.

Raury

SCENE

☛ Leave it to Marc Jacobs to kick off the week with a ’70s-themed book party for Gloss at Tunnel.

We’re going to go ahead and predict that babe du moment Charlotte McKinney will grace Marc’s runway. ☛ Plus! Bon Appétit’s Hot 10 bash hit the Appétit South Street Seaport for a feast, courtesy of the chefs behind the mag’s hottest restaurants around the country. ☛ And… Marisa Tomei alert! She hit up Lorenzo Martone and Marc Jacobs the opening of Totokaelo, and we totally missed it. ☛

Greg Blanc and Travis Lett

Below: the winning chefs. At the #BAHot10 bash, the culinary wizards whipped up their signature dishes, like bing bread from Chicago’s Parachute and pickled French fries from AL’s Place.

Christina Milian Charlotte McKinney

Roger Padilha and Mauricio Padilha

Lisa Salzer and Marlon Taylor-Wiles

Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Reporter Sydney Sadick Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists Neal Clayton, George Maier Editorial Assistant Kassidy Silva

Mark Tevis Publisher

Andrew Knowlton

Aaron London

Lauren Bush Lauren and Adam Rapoport

Fashion & Luxury Goods Director Chloe Worden Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Marketing Director Anna Lombardi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor

To advertise, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: mark@dailyfrontrow.com

BON APPÉTIT’S HOT 10 PARTY

GETTY IMAGES PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 8 ) ; E L I Z A B E T H L I P P M A N ( 1 0 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 2 )

Khaki Eyes Marissa Webb’s Spring 2016 beauty look focused on a metallic smoky eye in an inspired shade of khaki. Makeup artist Yadim used Maybelline New York’s upcoming The RockNudes palette (available January 2016) to smudge matte eggplant and brown shades across the lid. Metallics at the eyelid crease add impact, while a line of Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner in Eggplant creates the outline. Then finish with two coats of The Falsies Push Up Drama mascara.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

the

The Official Photo Agency of The Daily Front Row

The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved.

Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

ON THE COVER: Joseph Altuzarra with Joséphine Le Tutour and Alexandra Elizabeth, photographed by Giorgio Niro. Makeup by Cynthia Rivas for M.A.C Cosmetics; hair by Antonio Corral Calero for Moroccanoil. T-shirt montage by The Daily.

SUPIMA DESIGN COMPETITION

The

New Generation

of Chic Host Olivia Culpo!

Introducing the

NEXT GENERATION…

The Inside Scoop on the Competition!

F

or this year’s Supima Design Competition, Supima partnered with America’s leading design schools: Academy of Art University, Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, Fashion Institute of Technology, Kent State University, Pratt Institute Brooklyn Fashion and Design Accelerator, Rhode Island School of Design, and Savannah College of Art and Design. Each school nominated one of its top graduating seniors as a finalist for the Supima Design Competition.

In May 2015, each of the seven designers was assigned a faculty mentor, provided fabric from Supima’s most prestigious brand partners—AG Adriano Goldschmied, Brooks Brothers, Carlo Bonomi, Nice Dyeing, Uniqlo—and asked to create capsule collections highlighing the unique characteristics of Supima cotton.

The Supima Design Competition challenged each designer to create eveningwear collections with fabrics typically used in casual wear: high-end shirting; fine jersey; sturdy denims, corduroys, and twills. This year, finalists were mentored by CFDA award–winning designer Bibhu Mohapatra.

Designs were judged on originality, execution, and ability to showcase Supima, America’s luxury cotton. The winner received a $10,000 cash prize.

THIS YEAR’S YEAR’ WINNER: Kate McKenna, Savannah College of Art rt and Design Kate McKenna was dressing herself by the age of 5. Always an artistic child, fashion was just one of the ways she expressed herself.

After being completely captivated by the dressmaking scene in Disney’s Sleeping Beauty, she was hooked on the idea of making dresses. McKenna’s area of design focuses on women’s eveningwear, ready-to-wear, and bridal. With the ultimate goal of launching her own label, McKenna wishes to gain experience by working for a design house as a technical or concept designer. “I design with a narrative,” she says. “There’s always a reason or inspiration for silhouettes and details. I like to tell stories through my designs.”

THE JUDGES ILDO DAMIANO DAVID YI

S SAM SPECTOR SPECTO Stylist

CARMEN LILLY Stylist

Fashion Reporter, Mashable

Contributor, Grazia Italy

MARY ALICE STEPHENSON Style and Beauty Expert

BIBHU MOHAPATRA Designer

NAOMI NEVITT

JESSICA MICHAULT

FERN MALLIS BUXTON MIDYETTE

VP of Marketing, Supima

Creator of Fashion Week

Digital Strategist and Editor

Editor in Chief, NOWFASHION

CATHERINE C CAT HERINE BABA

ASLAUG MAGNUSDOTTIR

Designer and Stylist

CEO, Tinker Tailor

NICOLAS OUCHENIR ENIR Calligrapher

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY

FROM THE FINALISTS!

JULIA IA HAN HAN

Rhode Island School of Design

NNAMDI AGUM Fashion Institute of Technology

LEETAL LEETA EETAL PL PLATT

Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising

LAUREN NA N NAHIGIAN AH HIGIAN Pratt Institute Brooklyn Fashion and Design Accelerator

PAIGE MEACHAM MEAC Kent State University University

KAREN DANG Academy of Art U University

The Sponsors

Find out more: allaboutsupima.com/design-competition

RUNWAY

Spring 2016

GIVENCHY There goes Riccardo Tisci, reminding us how much we love Paris! His heaven-sent Spring offering was full of otherworldly lace, sumptuous fringe, and luxer-than-life fabrics that had the celeb-stocked front row quivering. Not much to wear to the grocery store, but no matter—Tisci’s woman doesn’t sweat the small stuff. For sublime statement dressing, look no further.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

FIRSTVIEW

RUNWAY

Spring 2016

NICHOLAS

K

Nicholas and Christopher Kunz dubbed their collection “Terminal Velocity,” and judging by the winning shapes on display, something’s taking flight. Parachute trenches, draped blouses and dresses, and the rope accessories resulted in a spiffy mix of daywear for women on the fast track.

KARIGAM New designer alert! Karina Gamez’s foray into runway was dominated by top mods—Toni!

Hilary! Stam!— sporting plenty of minimalist, architectural separates with distinctly sporty touches.

Game on…

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

NICHOLAS K: FIRSTVIEW; KARIGAM: COURTESY

RUNWAY

Spring 2016

Beauty

TREND

JASON

WU

According to his succinct show notes, Wu was going for “glamour.”

Mission accomplished, although this season, it was of the understated variety—fewer gowns, more après-work cocktail options. Ruffles, frayed hems, and lightweight knits abounded, giving Wu loyalists plenty of reasons to plunk down their Platinum Card.

{Ruby Ruby Lips} R

YADIM FOR MAYBELLINE NEW YORK

NICOLE

MILLER Nicole Miller looked to New York’s singular street art scene for a Spring collection that mixed feminine influences with tough-girl attitudes. Roaring prints were paired with body-con skirts and perfectfit leggings—a winning combo that’s bound to turn heads.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

FIRSTVIEW

I N T RO D U C I N G

SARAH JESSICA PARKER FOR THE JORDACHE LOOK

SHOP NOW on the new

JORDACHE .com

HAUTE

PROPERTY One of the most-discussed designers at NYFW, Joseph Altuzarra gets buzzier by the season. It’s been years since we’ve sat down with the perpetual “It” boy, so we stopped by his Soho digs for a catch-up to talk Anna, married life, and how he’s taking his brand to the next level. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO MAKEUP BY CYNTHIA RIVAS FOR MAC COSMETICS HAIR BY ANTONIO CORRAL CALERO FOR MOROCCANOIL

What’s the story behind your rebranding?

It’s a work in progress that happened due to the partnership with Kering.

We changed the logo and most of the visual assets—the invitations, the look book.

Was it challenging to pick a new logo?

It was sort of easy. When it’s right, you don’t feel much anxiety, and I work with someone really talented, Thomas Lenthal, who works for a lot of other brands, too. He’s incredibly smart and thoughtful, so it’s an easy relationship.

Do you prefer to design Fall or Spring?

I used to prefer designing Fall—I think most designers would say they prefer designing that season, because you get to play with more layers. But more and more, I’ve come to enjoy designing Spring, because it’s very undone, open, breezy, and easy.

What’s your pre-show mentality?

I’m definitely nervous, but I’m pretty calm overall. I internalize a lot of my stress. I try to relax by walking home from work and listening to music. It calms me down. I have a really great support system at home, so I feel pretty lucky.

What makes you feel successful?

The people backstage after the show. You can feel if there’s a lot of enthusiasm, or if the enthusiasm is restrained.

How much does that matter?

It probably matters a little too much, to be honest. I’m probably oversensitive to it, but it passes. Our show is so early in the season that it also takes editors and buyers a little bit of time to digest a season as a whole and put our show in context. When they’ve come back from Europe, they’ve had the opportunity to see everything, and to have really loved it.

Do you follow what everyone else is doing during Fashion Week?

Not so much! Definitely not before my show. I’ll look at my friends’ shows afterward, though.

You’re a notorious film buff. What are your all-time favorites?

Some of them are really cliché or trite. I had this whole Chinese film period—I loved all of the Wong Kar-wai films, obviously In the Mood for Love. I also really loved The Earrings of Madame De, which is a Max Ophüls movie that I’ve watched a lot. I just saw The Eyes of Laura Mars—my God, it was amazing.

Super camp. I love film because I love narrative. It’s a little harder for me to be inspired by just a pure piece of art—I need a story to take me somewhere. I’ve definitely watched Flashdance a hundred times.

You have an eye for models.

I like models who look, to a certain extent, like someone you would see on the street. I don’t think I’m as responsive to otherworldly physical looks. Although, you know, it can happen. I’m more attracted to models who have something that feels very familiar.

You and Alexander Wang are famously friendly.

We’re very, very close. He’s one of my best friends. Alex is one of the few

“

people who I’m friends with who knows exactly what I go through, and vice versa. Even though we don’t really talk about work, we understand each other very well, and we have very similar experiences. He’s also just a super funny, really nice guy.

You and Carine Roitfeld are very tight.

Carine and I met when I was working at Givenchy. She was always really nice to me, even though I was Riccardo’s assistant. When I started the company, she was really supportive. She wasn’t the only one, but she’s been a huge agent in allowing me to be where I am today. She has an incredible curiosity, and is also very blunt and doesn’t sugarcoat things. She has a childlike playfulness about this whole industry, and about fashion in general.

Anna Wintour has also been a major supporter.

She’s been amazing. My entire generation of designers has a lot to thank Anna for, because of how she’s championed younger designers. What’s so wonderful about Anna is that beyond helping you with your business and being a great adviser and mentor, she deeply cares about designers as individuals, and that’s really fostered a sense of community, especially in New York.

You also work with the CFDA closely.

I’ve benefited so much from the CFDA, especially having started the company during the recession. The support that I got from the CFDA and mentorship and help was necessary and surprising. [Mentor] Michael Kors is one of the nicest and most helpful people. I feel like it’s my responsibility in a lot of ways to keep that going and to help younger designers.

Do you still feel like the new kid on the block?

We’re in our teenage years now. There is a younger generation of children!

Any desire to work on a French brand eventually as creative director?

I’m very committed to the company, and I think it has a tremendous amount of potential, if I do say so myself.

Especially since partnering with Kering, Altuzarra is squarely my focus. But, that being said, I’m always very open to new opportunities.

When did you start working on Spring?

In March. It’s great to be able to design the collection in the weather that you’re designing for.

Does it affect the way you design?

Definitely! Women are shopping very differently—they used to go to the store in February and buy all their clothes for the summer. Some women still do that, but many want to buy something now, and wear it immediately.

You launched handbags for Fall. How are they doing?

They’re doing incredibly well, so we’re really thrilled. We wanted it to feel different from what was on the market, and the feedback that we’ve been given is that they are. There’s a lot of handwork and braiding. Designing them was a huge learning experience. The main difference between bags and clothes is that you really have to think about the function of the bag, because there’s not a lot that you can do after you sample it. Having them out in the world is immensely stressful!

What’s next?

The company as a whole is growing quite fast, and we’re focused on expanding into new categories, not just clothes and bags. I’m very interested in shoes, but as a business, we are very focused on establishing ready-to-wear.

Did you read any great books this summer?

I was in the Hamptons a lot. I read All the Light We Cannot See, which I didn’t love. I reread The Hours, which I loved as much as the first time. I’m currently reading A Little Life, which I guess everyone is reading. Have you read it?

Not yet. Next month, you’ll celebrate your first wedding anniversary.

How’s married life?

Honestly, it’s been sort of the same, but in a good way!

I’m very committed to the company, and I think it has a tremendous amount of potential, if I do say so myself.”

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

The designer with Josephine Le Tutour and Alexandra Elizabeth

LADIES’ MAN At 30 years old, Jonathan Simkhai has become the latest golden boy in the New York fashion world. We dropped by his Garment District studio to find out what turned this wunderkind on to fashion, and where he plans to take his buzzy label down the road. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO What inspired your interest in fashion?

I grew up in Westchester, and when I was a teenager, I took my best friend to a clothing store to buy a new school wardrobe. I was pulling all these pieces for her, and running around the store and putting things together, and she came out of the fitting room and every time was like, “I love this, I’m so excited!” The owner of the store came out and said, “I’ve been watching the cameras and I saw the way you’ve been, like, working with her and I really love the way you made her feel.” She offered me a job. I worked in the stockroom at first, but ended up selling to the customers and eventually became the buyer. I wasn’t good at sports, I wasn’t really good at academics, but this was something I was good at.

So fashion it was.

Growing up, I would tell my mom I didn’t feel well in hopes of her taking me to the mall, and we would go through the racks. I’d walk into school the next day and say to my teachers, “I like your dress! Is that from Lord & Taylor?” My teachers were so excited for my love of fashion that they’d pass me.

What was your worst subject in school?

English. I grew up in a house where my mom spoke seven languages, my dad speaks five, and I speak four, so it was always a little bit confusing for me to jump from language to language when I was growing up. I have a very short attention span, so I never really finished the books I was assigned to read.

Do you have ADD? I do, but when it comes to fashion, I’m so focused.

Were you popular growing up?

With the girls, because I was dressing them! When it was prom season, they took me to pick out their dresses and help with makeup and hair. I made them feel confident. I was less popular with the jocks, because I wasn’t very athletic.

Which New York stores excited you as a kid?

Bergdorf Goodman. I pinch myself because we sell there now. Is this really happening?

How did you end up launching your own line?

I had a friend who would always say that she had nothing to wear, so I’d put looks together for her.

I knew that I wanted to make women feel excited, sexy, and confident. When I started my own brand, I tried to experiment with different ways of making women feel sexy, so that the brand is always edgy.

You’re part of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, which is currently filming. What’s it like having the cameras on?

It’s fun! The production team is really cool. It’s already a success, everyone’s a winner. It does get tricky sometimes with the camera, when you have to present something for Fashion Week and you have a design challenge that’s due, and you also have in-store appearances, a dinner with an editor, and on top of it, you’re also being filmed. It can get challenging for sure, but I really hope that it’s an opportunity to inspire and tell a story. I hope there are a lot of young talents out there who will be excited to see the process and then apply to fashion school or get an internship at a fashion house. But I am horrible with the camera.

How so?

When I got the call from Steven Kolb that I was going to be a finalist, the cameras were here, and I jumped on the couch after hearing the news. My legs were up in the air, and I split the couch in two on camera. I guess that makes for good television.

What do you think people will get out of the show?

I hope they see that people in this industry are so amazing, and it’s because of them that I’m even here.

Who are your heroes in fashion?

I really love Joseph Altuzarra. He’s the nicest person,

and also incredibly talented. I love how connected he is to his woman. He’s been really supportive—I bounce ideas off of him, and he gives great advice. I also love Andrew Rosen, who’s one of the judges. He’s been really supportive.

What do you do for fun?

I’ve been going upstate a lot, antiquing and looking for really cool little knickknacks. I just moved into a new apartment, too. But every time I was in the country, I was missing the city, and every time I was in the city, I was missing the country. I was torn about where I really wanted to be. That’s probably why I’m a designer—I love that fantasy of escape.

Where do you see the brand in the future?

I really want to continue to elevate and to push women. I also love the idea of doing menswear, and creating more of a lifestyle, where she’s coming to me to outfit herself across the board. Right now I’m really just trying to fill a void for a more stylized look. I see it as a lifestyle brand. I love the idea of completing the look with shoes and bags.

Did you always have a grand plan for your life?

I always thought I’d be fine. I always said to my parents, “Don’t worry, you guys.… Don’t worry about me. Worry about yourselves!” There’s something really powerful about knowing what you want.

Obviously, this takes a lot of work—I’ve pulled countless all-nighters in the studio, and I’ve heard the word “no” a lot. Iron out what you want as a designer and figure out what you want to get done, and almost like clockwork, it works out.

ALL OTHER IMAGES COURTESY

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

GREAT EXPECTATIONS Retailers and editors alike have been buzzing about the chic newcomer Brock, founded by husband-and-wife duo Kris Brock and Laura Vassar. The couple, who just made the move from New York to California with their 8-month-old son, are only in their fourth season, but they’re already garnering the kind of attention some veteran designers still dream about. Their easy rapport, combined with their laid-back attitude, is reflected in their statement-making but real-life-friendly collections. BY PAIGE REDDINGER How exactly did you two meet?

Kris Brock: We met in our couture class at Parsons.

For our final project, we had to make a dress. I decided to make a wedding gown and I asked Laura to be my fit model, because I didn’t want to fit on a form.

Laura Vassar: He conned me into it.

Kris: I didn’t con her into anything! She wanted to do it.

Laura: Only because I wanted him to sew my project together for me afterward.

What happened to the dress?

Kris: It went to storage or wherever Parsons keeps some of the student projects. I think it ended up getting lost or ruined at the dry cleaner or something.

Laura: I had been working on my project for so long, and Kris worked on his for three days. Both of our pieces ended up being in the awards ceremony together. I was so mad that he had spent only three days on his. Mine won two awards, and his won only one.

Kris: [Laughs] Oh, my God… Laura: We’re a little bit competitive.

What did you do after graduation?

Laura: I started working for Theyskens’ Theory. I did some styling work for Moda Operandi and then after Theory, Kris and I went straight into this.

Kris: After school, I was working as a freelance tailor.

I did that for about two years.

Were you anxious about taking a leap of faith and starting your own label?

Kris: That first season, it was just Laura and me. We were going on Craigslist and finding patternmakers.

There were a lot of things we had to leap over!

Laura: We would walk into the best factories in New York and just try to charm them into making our samples.

The first patternmaker we worked with told us, “This is going to be the most fun season you will ever have, because you’re just doing what you love and making clothes, but in the future, it’s going to be very different.” I remember looking at her and thinking that we really needed to cherish everything that we were doing and learning. And there was no season like the first season!

Are you always aligned on the vision?

Kris: We both have a similar end vision, but our paths aren’t always the same.

Laura: Each season, we design separately.

It’s funny, because we sketch and then present our ideas to each other. Because we are husband and wife, I think we can say things like, “No,

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

that doesn’t work” or “I need to see that again.”

Kris: We’re probably a little mean to each other.

Laura: [Laughs] But it really works to push our ideas and make them strong and really convince each other why we are doing this.

Kris: Even in school, we’ve always kind of had the same aesthetic, so that’s never been a problem…for the most part. Laura just gave me a dirty look.

What’s been the hardest part of starting your own business?

Laura: It’s hard to draw the line at the end of the day about when to stop working.

Kris: We pretty much work seven days a week.

Laura: But it’s also the most rewarding thing.

Kris: It’s something we’ve built together.

You’ve had a great reception from retailers.

Kris: We are launching at Barneys this season!

Laura: We’ve really tried to build those relationships from day one. We wanted to know what they think of the collection, as well as what they need from us, and what their customers like to wear.

What’s your inspiration for Spring?

Laura: We’ve been researching a lot of Gustavian architecture and furniture design.

Kris: But really when you break it down, it’s very intricate. A lot of what we worked on this season is that a lot of things look simple to the eye, but when you really get up close, there are a lot of details.

Who have been some of the early influencers behind your brand?

Laura: The stylist Petra Flannery has been a big supporter of ours and really helped to move us forward. A’maree’s in Newport Beach has been really supportive, and so has Moda Operandi.

Have you had a “we made it” moment yet?

Laura: When we were putting together our Fall 2015 collection. The models were in hair and makeup, the collection was being steamed, and we stood there and looked at each other and said, “This is really cool.”

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TOWNRESIDENTIAL.COM TOWN Residential LLC (“TOWN”) is a licensed real estate broker and a partnership of Buttonwood Residential Brokerage LLC and Thor Equities, LLC. All property listing information, including, but not limited to, square footage, room count, and number of bedrooms are from sources deemed reliable, but are subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, prior sale or withdrawal and should be verified by your own attorney, architect, engineer or zoning expert. This is not intended to solicit property already listed. Real estate agents associated with TOWN are independent contractors and are not employees of TOWN. TOWN owns the following subsidiary real estate brokerages: TOWN Astor Place LLC; TOWN Fifth Avenue LLC; TOWN Flatiron LLC; TOWN Gramercy Park LLC (“TOWN Gramercy”); TOWN Greenwich Street LLC (“TOWN Financial District”); TOWN Greenwich Village LLC; TOWN Soho LLC; TOWN West Village LLC; and TOWN 79th Street, LLC (“TOWN Upper East Side”).

ROMAN FEVER Ever since 1884, when Sotirios Bulgari set up shop on Via Sistina, Rome has been a touchstone for the international luxury brand. “Bulgari and Rome: Eternal Inspiration,” a new exhibition bowing this fall at the brand’s Fifth Avenue flagship, explores that relationship in depth.

Daniel Paltridge, the brand’s North American president, explains.

Sautoir in gold with mother-of-pearl and diamonds, 1970, inspired by the obelisk at Piazza del Popolo

How did the curation of the exhibit come together?

The city of Rome is ingrained in Bulgari’s DNA. This exhibition is dedicated to our primary source of inspiration since Sotirios Bulgari founded the brand in Rome in 1884.

How is the exhibit organized?

The exhibition includes 40 one-of-a-kind pieces from Bulgari’s archives, as well as loans from private collections. The heritage department curated the list from hundreds of options to offer a selection that presents a comprehensive portrait of Rome’s influence on Bulgari’s designs.

What are some of the most notable pieces on display?

One of the highlights of the exhibition is a necklace formed of five joined 18-karat gold Tubogas bands decorated with a silver tetradrachm of Alexander III, “the Great” (336-323 BC). Another is a necklace in gold with an emerald, rubies, and diamonds. The center of the octagonal pendant is set with a 44.6-carat cabochon emerald in a frame of rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds with the chain formed of geometric links set with diamonds and circular-cut rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds.

What is the backstory of Elizabeth Taylor’s cigarette case, which is included in the exhibition?

Elizabeth Taylor gifted this 1962 cigarette case to her Cleopatra director Joseph Mankiewicz as a wedding present. The case is covered in Ancient Roman coins and is inscribed by Elizabeth and Richard Burton, who fell in love on the set of Cleopatra in Rome. Burton once quipped that Bulgari was the only Italian word that Taylor knew.

When was the Roman coin first used in Bulgari designs?

Nicola Bulgari introduced the coins in the early 1960s. Encouraged by his beloved godfather, Nicola began acquiring ancient coins as a boy and remains an avid collector. Incorporating these ancient forms of currency into our designs speaks not only to Bulgari’s heritage, but also to its long-standing experimentation with materials.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

What about the brand is quintessentially Roman?

Rome’s legacy has been and always will be at the core of Bulgari’s creations and ethos. Oftentimes, the inspiration is literal and the design of a necklace directly echoes a monument, street, or piece of architecture in the Eternal City.

Which members of the Bulgari family are most involved in the brand now, and what are their roles?

Paolo and Nicola Bulgari, the great grandsons of Sotirios who founded the family business and moved to Rome from Greece, are the most involved today. Paolo Bulgari has been president of Bulgari Group since 1984 and has contributed to the rapid and brilliant expansion of the company. He is one of the world’s leading experts in the field of precious stones, and serves as the counselor in design and manufacturing for High Jewelry. He is still the creative soul of the company, and assists Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s jewelry creative director, and the designer and craftsmen team. Nicola started working at Bulgari in 1960 and since 1984 has been the vice president. He has brought a determined contribution to the realization of jewelry with the introduction of coins, an iconic and highly successful motif of Bulgari named Monete. He is a special adviser for Bulgari’s heritage and patronage initiatives. He is also a connoisseur of antique silver, and a frequent visitor to auctions, where he buys rare examples of silver pieces that belong to the Roman school.

Bulgari has partnered with the city of Rome to restore the Spanish Steps.

Why was that monument in need of repair, and why did this project appeal to the brand?

After a series of budget cuts in the culture sector, Prime Minister of Italy Matteo Renzi appealed to private investors to help preserve and restore heritage monuments throughout Italy. Bulgari accepted the challenge by pledging $2 million to restore the Spanish Steps as a special gift to the city of Rome.

Not only are the Spanish Steps adjacent to Bulgari’s flagship store, but they are also one of the city’s most iconic monuments.

A necklace in gold with diamonds, 1954–1958, inspired

by Palazzo Pecci Blunt

A Tubogas choker in gold with Hellenistic silver coin, 1980

“

Rome’s legacy has been and always will be at the core of Bulgari’s creations and ethos.”

Cigarette case in gold with gold coins of the Kingdom of Sardinia, 1939

Bib necklace in gold with multicolor sapphires and diamonds, 2005, inspired by Appian Way basalt pavement

Colosseum-inspired bracelet in platinum and diamonds, 1939 ALL IMAGES COURTESY

ARBETTER of Style After several stints as what she calls a “number two” at Time Inc. magazines, Lisa Arbetter is now the leading lady at People StyleWatch. We visited the editor in chief ’s new corner office to discuss her vision for the recent redesign and the magazine’s fresh message. BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO What’s new about the September fall fashion issue?

First, the cover has been evolving since I’ve taken over. We wanted to move past the old version with the big head. We feel the magazine is now not a celebrity shopping magazine as it used to be; it’s a magazine about street style.

And the design?

Our creative director felt that our new fonts and a pastel color palette felt fresher and newer. We’re really working to get the balance between cool and edgy but also approachable and soft with a little sophistication. And the pictures have just gotten so much bigger.

What about content?

In the past it was about celebrity, and now it’s all about street style. Street style has never been given a magazine treatment. And, of course, it’s never been shown in these big, bold, beautiful layouts, which is what magazines are so good for.

Also, every page in the magazine is going to be interactive.

Are you the first magazine that’s doing this?

Yes. Through the blipr app, you can shop the page and contact the editor. There are also a few styling GIFs, which show you things like how to roll up your sleeves.

We also worked with PledgeMusic to curate the issue with music. You can see who’s playing, and if you tap the page it takes you to their site and you can learn more about the song, or even download it.

What is People StyleWatch’s approach to street style?

Street style means different things to different people. To us, it’s anybody who is wearing what they wear on the street. We’re treating celebrities the same way we’re treating everybody else. If you have a good outfit and you put something together really nicely we’re going to celebrate it.

Who is the audience?

Millennials. We know that music informs their styles, so it felt strange not to have it involved with the issue. The whole idea behind the magazine now is that people don’t shop the way they used to. We hear this from consumers all the time, that they’re constantly shopping, constantly looking at things on blogs, on Pinterest, and in magazines.

What’s your favorite change about the September issue?

The diversity—style diversity, but also body diversity. And clothing that goes up to extended sizes is throughout the magazine. That audience is really underserved, FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

and women are very fashion hungry. I want to appeal to any woman who is having fun getting dressed.

Why don’t you shoot the covers?

The cover differentiates us, and I think part of the DNA of the magazine is to have it sort of not so precious. It’s of that moment, and then it’s gone. And I think the pickup art gives it that energy. We actually cut these out as paper dolls, all the people we’re considering, and play with them. If we were to start shooting, we could be any other magazine.

Gigi Hadid is among your cover subjects. What is it about her?

She’s gorgeous, her life is out there, she’s friends with the Kardashians. She doesn’t seem like she’s expecting all of this; she doesn’t seem ungrateful.

Does returning to StyleWatch feel like a homecoming?

It does. I’ve worked at this company for 15 years. I’ve been at InStyle twice, I helped launch StyleWatch and I worked at People. Staying within the same company is helpful when you’re switching jobs because there’s a lot of the unknown that’s taken out of the picture.

Do you have a long-term vision?

My goal is to get more community focused—kind of what we’re doing on theoutfit.com, which is the companion site and is built as a fashion community of women who are posting pictures of themselves, commenting to each other, and supporting one another. It’s amazing how much love and support women give one another when they’re talking about fashion, and I would love to build on that feeling. A community of very diverse but very open-minded people who are talking about style and supporting one another—that’s my utopia.

Both InStyle and People StyleWatch are overseen by Ariel Foxman.… What’s your relationship with him?

I talk to him almost every day. We work very closely. We’re also very good friends, so we spend a lot of time together.

What has he taught you over the years?

The biggest lesson is that you have to say thank you to everybody. Like, everybody. He is the most relentlessly thoughtful person I’ve ever met in my life.

If it even crosses your mind to write a thank-you e-mail note, he already did it 20 minutes ago. He’s just incredibly thoughtful. That goes a long way in building real relationships with people that you work with.

TWO WORLDS. ONE PASSION. PROUD PARTNER OF NYFW: THE SHOWS AND MADE FASHION WEEK Design inspires. It provokes. It challenges. Together with NYFW: The Shows and MADE Fashion Week, Lexus proudly supports those who disrupt, defy and transcend convention in the pursuit of creating the next big thing. See what inspires us at sendthemasignal.tumblr.com. lexus.com | #DesignDisrupted

Options shown. Š2015 Lexus.

THE PLACE TO BE

If heaven is a place on earth, then we found it in downtown Manhattan: Brookfield Place, rife with high-end retailers, office spaces boasting Hudson River views, and a palate-pleasing array of eateries. The Daily called on Callie Haines, vice president of asset management, to give us the scoop on the chic makeover.

BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO Can you give us a brief history of Brookfield Place?

Brookfield Place was formerly the World Financial Center and located directly across the street from the World Trade Center. After the financial crisis, the World Financial Center, as it was known, wasn’t really a financial center anymore, and we needed to start to figure out how we were going to attract new types of tenants to downtown. Goldman Sachs moved next door, so there was a lot of wealth down here that was untapped, and there really was no retail to service them. So we saw an opportunity to create a bold statement about downtown and that this is the heart of the new downtown. This very curated mix of high-end retail with aspirational retail became the message that we were able to put out into the market.

What does it offer that other downtown shopping areas don’t?

We have a unique mix of amenities here. We have the waterfront—there’s really no other place in Manhattan that has that—and we’re so close to so many subways, and we’re a complement to what the World Trade Center is going to be doing with their retail. We think of it more as an ability to create a place—a placemaking opportunity.

Did the pace at which the vacancies were filled surprise you?

Our leasing and management teams had a very strong vision early on, much earlier than some of our counterparts down here did. We’ve been working on this for 10 years, and we’ve been molding that vision. Once we were able to convince people of that message, the tipping point happened and then things moved very quickly.

What was the tipping point?

With retail, it was Burberry. They were the first to really get the retailers very excited about coming downtown.

So they had first dibs on location?

They obviously wanted to be in the Winter Garden, which we’ve always thought of as our pure luxury area. The 250 Vesey space is our aspirational retail, which is the complement to the luxury.

Some people had doubts that you’d be able to fill the vacancies. What do you have to say to them?

Well, look at it now! The leasing went very quickly once we hit that tipping point.

Our office leasing accelerated at the same exact time. We knew the place that we wanted to create, and we did not waver from that. We have five spaces remaining, and we’re being very careful about who those five spaces are going to be for, because they’re the final pieces of the puzzle. We just want the whole puzzle to come out perfectly.

What was the highlight of the summer?

Our Hudson Music Festival was our biggest draw. This year in particular, with the retail opening in late March, it was almost treated as an opening event. We’re bookending that with a Move event in October, a series of movements that are choreographed between a designer and an artist; the Diane von Furstenberg and Michael Kors stores are involved too.

What other events do you have coming up?

Our events team is constantly trying to source new events. This is a new environment for us too; we didn’t have this caliber of retailers here. Now we have to be very cognizant of what works for them and what doesn’t, so we’re trying a bunch of things out.

What is the ambiance like?

We tried to create one cohesive atmosphere. It’s clean, sophisticated, and smart, and it’s a welcoming environment but a very special environment.

Do you foresee this area becoming a center for media?

Yes, and the tipping point for that would be the Condé Nast move. It really brought

downtown to the attention of Time Inc. and the like. Hudson’s Bay Company is moving its headquarters here, another prime example. So fashion, media, and technology will be moving here in the next year.

Do you have any plans to coordinate events with Fashion Week?

That’s definitely down the pipeline. We don’t have any events specific for Fashion Week, but we do have events that complement it. Several of the retailers have reached out, and I know that Omega is planning a fashion event.

What has the traffic been like this summer?

The majority are people from the area. As soon as construction on West Street is done, it will be a lot easier for tourists at the memorial to cross the street and see us. It’s a neighborhood spot right now, and that’s really what we wanted it to be, because we built this place for the neighborhood first and foremost.

Did you find that there was competition with Westfield?

We had a very clear direction in what we wanted, the sort of luxury and aspirational brands, and they’re going a different direction, the more mainstream brands. So it’s actually very complementary, and I think Westfield would say the same thing.

Is there a dream retailer you would love to move in?

My favorite retailers are here. I’m fairly lucky—my bank account, not so much.

What’s the food scene in the neighborhood like?

It’s getting a lot better. The past five years have seen a huge influx of some great new restaurants down here. But there’s still a lot of work to do.

How did you curate the dining area?

We wanted to create a sort of a food mecca downtown. By putting the dining terrace and the marketplace Le District together, we created a dining destination.

We have a couple restaurant spaces on the Vesey Street side, which we think of as the restaurant corridor because they complement the restaurants on the Goldman Sachs side of the street.

Why did you choose to keep the palm trees?

Because they’re iconic and they’re beautiful! And they represent the new Brookfield Place and the old World Financial Center. It really ties everything together. We had to replace the palm trees, though. They’re real—people think they’re fake. That’s just a maintenance thing. They keep growing!

Was anything else preserved?

The stairs in the Winter Garden. They’re beautiful and very iconic to the World Financial Center and the new Brookfield Place. They were very important to us as well as to the community.

What makes this neighborhood so special?

Battery Park City itself is really quiet—once you cross West Street you feel like you’re on an island. The parks are beautiful, it’s very family-oriented, the schools are great. So it’s a real attraction for families especially, and for young professionals.

What’s the easiest way for people to get here?

We are close to subway lines, Fulton Center is open, and once the tunnel can connect all the way through the Trade Center, it comes directly up into Brookfield Place. We also have the ferry right outside connecting to New Jersey. So we’re very easy to get to. I think that was one of the messages that was challenging for us to get across. With the amount of construction going on down here, it seemed almost difficult to get to sometimes.

Is this the kind of project with an end in sight?

I don’t think it will ever end, and that’s a good thing. I think it needs to constantly move and evolve as downtown moves and evolves, as the culture down here does, as the residential population does. We need to continue to adapt and move with it.

That’s what creating a place is—it’s creating a place that feels alive and feels like it lives with you.

INSET PHOTOS: COURTESY

CHECKING IN to CHECK OUT We know the days—OK, weeks and months—leading up to Fashion Week can be stressful, and it’s hard to find time for R&R. So we treated Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs of Cushnie et Ochs to a massage of their choice at the uber-posh Park Hyatt Spa Nalai!

BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO How do you typically pamper yourself?

Michelle: Something like this! A massage, vacations, shoes, handbags—until we do our own shoes and handbags—and good company, good wine, and good food.

Carly: You’ve always got to take a step back so that you can be creative and focused on work. It’s even important for our team—if it’s been a really long hard day we’ll open a bottle of wine and just chill out for a minute.

Michelle: Your mind has to be right for everything else to function. It’s something you learn over time.

Do you frequently get massages?

Michelle: I try to go at least once a week to the nail salon to do the 10- or 20-minute one, but that doesn’t really count. It’s better than nothing!

Carly: I try to get a full one every now and again. It’s important.

Do you often do things like this together?

Michelle: We’ve actually had more couple’s massages than we’d like to admit!

So how was the massage today?

Carly: It was really good! I love it when they pull you and twist you, lengthening your body.

Michelle: I carry a lot of tension in my back, and [the FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

massage therapist] could feel it. I didn’t even have to tell her. I prefer that, where you’re not ordering it off a menu.

And did you get to use the beautiful bathtub?

Carly: No, but we were just talking about that, because Michelle has a thing for baths.

Michelle: I do! The first thing Carly said was, “That bathtub’s got your name written all over it.”

Did they have music playing?

Carly: Yes, you need some Zen music.

Michelle: I had a massage last week that had no music and I was like, “Ah! I can hear you breathing!”

Carly: And you don’t want to hear your bones cracking.

How do you usually relax leading up to a show?

Carly: I like to work out, but sometimes it’s hard to fit it in.

Also, sometimes when I’m feeling run-down I’ll do a B shot.

Michelle: Food, sugar, carbs, red wine, vodka—they keep you going! Also, a bad movie goes a long way. Netflix changed my life. All the noise in your head turns off.

What type of massage do you prefer?

Michelle: Deep tissue.

Carly: Yeah, don’t pat me. I can do that myself.

Michelle: You can use your elbows, knees, call a friend in… whatever machinery you need!

Tell us about the robes.

Carly: They were gorgeous.

Michelle: And the slippers! We were like, are these Céline slippers?

What was your favorite part of today’s experience?

Michelle: Getting to leave work at 4 to do this!

Carly: I love that there’s marble all around this place, and that bathtub was gorgeous. The view is also beautiful.

Any other ways to stay balanced pre–Fashion Week?

Michelle: Try to get as much sleep as possible. You don’t think you need it, but you do.

Carly: Also try to be as organized as you can be leading up to it.

Michelle: And have lots of wine on hand.

Spa Secrets With Amy Olthoff, director of Spa Nalai What’s a popular package?

Hands down our atelier for two. It starts with a customized bath soak, and can be more sleep-inducing, re-energizing, or whatever you need. Then it’s a 90-minute couple’s massage, and ends with a champagne toast.

Please share the hidden perks!

When you book a 60- or 90-minute treatment you can use the pool or the fitness center. Also, some of our treatment rooms have a private outdoor terrace where you can enjoy a glass of champagne or cup of tea with Central Park views.

Do you see a pickup during Fashion Week?

A lot of people come in for quick treatments.

Everybody is so pressed for time!

What kind of quick fix do you recommend?

Thirty-minute facials or massages, and short treatments like quick body scrubs or neck and shoulder massages.

We also get a lot of requests to just work on the legs and feet.

To book a treatment, call (646) 774-1210

Spree

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Polly snake-print shoulder bag

$328

Jackson wool coat

$168

Lula color-block dress

$198

Botanical Trip floral dress

$128

Glinka Knits highnecked jumper

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Chicago faux fur gilet

$188

Dayton lace frill top

All products available at FrenchConnection.com

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Pleated Polly dress

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Carla faux leather backpack FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

FRENCH CONNECTION Inspired looks and statement basics for every season.

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Louis slipon loafers

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Georgina faux fur shoulder bag

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Lonnie patent leather loafers ALL PHOTOS COURTESY

Real-world education means value-added employees.

Berkeley College graduates enter the workforce with more than a typical classroom education.

Programs developed with input from industry experts. Outstanding faculty. Access to top fashion industry resources. That’s what the Fashion Marketing and Management program at Berkeley College is all about.

In fact, our time-tested approach to education is so effective that leading companies and organizations hire Berkeley grads year after year.

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Modifications subsequent to the original publication of this information may not be reflected here. For the most up-to-date information, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu. For more information about Berkeley College graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed programs, and other important disclosures, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/disclosures.

“Through the Fashion Program at Berkeley College, I have met knowledgeable professors who emphasize the skills needed to succeed. I have also had opportunities to connect with industry professionals.

Now, I am ready to chase my dreams.”

Kaja Berg (left) Fashion Marketing and Management Student P4597-8.2014

daily mail

EDITORS in CRISIS What they really think about vous!

Dear Publicist, I don’t believe we’ve met, thank God, but I’m writing in response to your 12th e-mail of the week. As you may recall, the subject line is marked URGENT: [REDACTED] PRESS PREVIEW, and while I was confused when I opened the e-mail to learn that the aforementioned appointment was six weeks away—in another financial quarter, seriously?—I’m doing my best to understand. Convincing me to air kiss your D-list clients is your livelihood; I get it. Not everyone can sign Dior. But do me a favor— read my magazine. We don’t even cover flip-flops, much less plastic clogs beloved by sous-chefs and the preschool set. Save your energy for a relevant pitch—i.e., something from an advertiser. Even a potential!

And now, a little bit about my inbox: I try not to keep track of the number of e-mails I receive each hour, but according to my assistant, that number is somewhere between 40 and 50. The senders whose missives I actually read, in order of importance: my boss’s boss, my publisher, a higher-up at PR Consulting or KCD asking for my size (sadly, those queries are all too rare…hint, hint), my therapist, my assistant, my boss. Everything else is basically destined for the abyss.

But if you want to ensure that your note will be filed away directly in the trash, do any of the following: copy my boss, use the word “follow-up,” type anything in all caps, refer to me as “hon,” “sweetie,” or “girl” (I’m careening toward 40, although I know I don’t look it!), ask about my weekend (haven’t you heard of Instagram?), invite me out for drinks. I haven’t even found the time to have sex in the past month, so chillaxing with agenda-driven strangers is about as likely to happen as me wearing plastic clogs to Altuzarra.

In closing, I can’t make it, because we are slammed with an issue close for the next few decades, or until I get laid off, which, given the state of things, will probably happen before your press preview. But thanks for checking in.

Truly, An editor FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

B FA N YC . C O M ( 3 )

Our professors shine in the classroom, but their experience extends far beyond those four walls.

They’re industry professionals who work with some of the biggest names in fashion. They’re brand builders and thought leaders who come to us to share their expertise with the next generation of fashion innovators. We think BEYOND THE CLASSROOM to propel our students beyond their expectations.

LEARN MORE AT LIMCOLLEGE.EDU/BEYOND

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DEREK COCKLE Fashion Merchandising Professor & Former Vice President of Sourcing and Production for Boscorale Operating LLC

8/20/15 12:05 AM

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TOMMY HILFIGER FW15

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