SEPTEMBER 14, 2016
GATO , BEAUTY
MAVEN CHIC MOMENTS GALORE FAUX NEWS YOU CAN USE!
FASHION’S ORIGINAL MULTI-HYPHENATE
HEIDI KLUM
MODEL,TV STAR, CREATIVE DIRECTOR
SEE YOU
SEPTEMBER 18.19.20 SUN MON TUE JAVITS CENTER. NYC ATTENDCOTERIE.COM COTERIE_SHOW
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ISLAND LIFE!
WITH DAPHNE GROENEVELD
Thanks for coming to our Fashion Media Awards! It was such an inspiring evening. I didn’t know it was going to be red carpet. I showed up to the Park Hyatt, and I had no idea!
GRACE CODDINGTON ’S BOOK PARTY
What’s new? I’ve been based in New York for the past two years, so this summer I went home for a month. I also went to Curacao, which was super chill.
Karolina Kurkova and Grace Coddington
CONGRATS!
JEREMY SCOTT drew the fash-noscenti to Moynihan Station for a Slime City–themed spectacular. With styling by CARLYNE CERF DE DUDZEELE, music by MICHEL GAUBERT, shoes by POLLINI, jewelry by ALEXIS BITTAR, and models from every top agency in town, it was a family affair full of love, sequins, and real joie de fashion. • Total lovefest at the book party for GRACE CODDINGTON’s Grace: The American Vogue Years, held at the Calvin Klein Collection boutique on Madison Ave.
CATCHING UP! How did the Slime City idea come to your genius brain?
JEREMY SCOTT
I was thinking about New York and this vibe of folklore that we didn’t get to experience in the early eighties. It was seedy, slimy, dirty, and kind of rough. And there’s a little Nickelodeon in the collection.
Our girl Stella Maxwell closed the show.
SLIME TIME!
You’ve seen us in action when we shot her for the cover of The Daily. I love her. We went to the VMA’s and she’s one of my best friends and muses. She’s my intergalactic, sexy beauty. I wanted her to close the show with a punctuation mark!
WITH PARIS AND NICKY HILTON
Have you ever been slimed? Paris: They asked me to do
HEARD
it at one of the Teen Choice Awards, but I said no. I didn’t want to walk out of there with 50,000 paparazzi and slime on my head. Nicky: No sliming! No interest in sliming! I’m slime-free.
WITH DNA MODEL MITCHELL Coco Rocha SLAGGERT
SHOE OF THE DAILY
What’s new, kid?
I’ve been studying acting at the New York Film Academy. I just booked a TV show, Diablo Guardián, which is based on a book, and we’re doing 10 episodes for Netflix. I leave for Mexico City later this month to film it.
You’re taking this acting thing seriously! Have you ever been slimed? I haven’t been, but I’m not opposed to it! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Was it tough to edit this down?
It’s like throwing your babies away. It was really painful. It was really hard. “No, no, that’s my favorite!” But I’ve said that about the last 20 things.
Tell us about your favorites. There’s a lot I like…the “Alice in Wonderland” story with Natalia Vodianova. We were in Paris for couture; there was great food, the whole ambience that went with it was beautiful. We shot it for three or four days, which is a luxury. It really came together. Everything came together, every aspect—from the location to the casting to the clothes.
granddaughter, which is really cute. She’s incredible and so caring. She’s chill, relaxed, and hilarious. And she doesn’t waste anybody’s time!” —NATALIE WESTLING
Mitchell Slaggert
STUART WEITZMAN’s Leggylady. The tantalizing thigh-high gets even sexier this season. Fabulously figure-skimming, this style staple is offered in unique ultra-stretch velvet, making it the perfect choice for dark skinnies and structured skirts. $798, stuartweitzman.com PROMOTION
Patrick Demarchelier
WITH GRACE CODDINGTON
[Coddington] “ Grace calls me her
RISING STAR ALERT!
If you half-ass something, you’re wasting your time, man.
MEMORY LANE!
What’s a typical day like for you? There’s no typical day now, which is the fun part of it. I have an office close to my house, which is peaceful, and my office at Vogue, which is a little crazier.
Loved you in the Calvin Klein campaign. [Photographer] Tyrone Lebon is so lovely. I had never met him before. He’s not only incredibly charming, handsome, and incredibly tall, but so talented. There’s a free spirit to those pictures. I could not believe that I was asked to be in them. It was one of the very first projects I did when I became freelance. “Yes! I can do that now!” They had to make my clothes especially for me, because I’m not exactly sample size. It was fun! Really fun. At the age of 75, to see yourself on a billboard, it’s kind of amusing.
We bought your memoir on iPad, which is a regret! I’m very anti that. I’m very into books.
Lindsey Wixson
Natalie Westling
GETTY IMAGES (9); ALL OTHERS COURTESY
WITH JEREMY SCOTT
S:10.25”
S:13”
Makeup artistry by Gato. ©2016 Maybelline LLC.
Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
DKNY
ON THE HOOK!
WITH VIRGINIA SMITH
HEARD
How was your summer? I visited Yellowstone in Montana. I went horseback riding and fly fishing. I only caught myself! My guide was horrified. My son and husband fared much better.
OH NO!
WITH DONNA KARAN What happened?
I cracked my knee at the horse show with my granddaughter.
“I’VE BEEN WEARING DKNY BRAS SINCE I WAS 14. I FEEL VERY SEXY!”
Sorry to hear that!
—EMILY RATAJKOWSKI
Me too!
How does it feel to be here tonight? I love it. This is my baby!
COLLABORATION HEAVEN!
When athleisure brand Outdoor Voices teams up with A.P.C. on what the two are calling “an everyday uniform for activity,” the results are pretty genius. A.P.C.O.V. musts include killer tees, zipped leggings, running anoraks, and even more excuses to get your sweat on (or to just look pretty stylish in the front row). Those of you lucky enough to have scored an invite to Outdoor Voices’ party with Bon Appétit (another Feast or Fashion extravaganza) likely saw some of the looks in action. outdoorvoices.com
LOU & GREY PARTY
PROMOTION
WEST COAST GLOW BAND OF OUTSIDERS Spring 2017
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Band of Outsiders’ Spring collection channeled the sun-kissed cool kids of California. Glowing skin and flushed cheeks were paired with strong brows and voluminous lashes to create the perfect visage for a day at Venice Beach. Maybelline New York makeup artist Grace Lee mixed some illuminator with the Lip Studio Shine Shot Glassy Topcoat to complete the dewy look. BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK FaceStudio Master Strobing Stick Illuminating Highlighter ($9.99), maybelline.com
Mark Tevis Publisher
Executive Sales Director Stephen Savage Account Manager Cristina Graham Midwest Sales Rhapsodie Media, Kathy Burke Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Manager Carey Cassidy Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
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PRO TIP: Lightly pat the same lipstick on apples of cheeks to get a natural flush.
ON THE COVER: Heidi Klum. Photographed by Rankin for Heidi Klum Swim.
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SCENE
The entire design team took a final bow at OSCAR DE LA RENTA, where ANNA WINTOUR, FERNANDO GARCIA, and LAURA KIM flanked ANNETTE DE LA RENTA in the front row.• Over on the High Line, DKNY drew DONNA KARAN herself.• LOU & GREY opened its new Fifth Avenue store with a kitten-filled runway show and adoption event, hosted with BETH STERN and the North Shore Animal League. Meow!
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Emily Design Director Ratajkowski in Jill Serra Wilde DKNY Intimates Fashion Editor and Hosiery Paige Reddinger Contributing Editor Lauren Smith Brody Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Associate Editor Sydney Sadick Art Directors Teresa Platt, Magdalena Long Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editors Emma Schwartz, Hannah Turner-Harts Contributing Copy Editors Stacy Cousino, Kerry Acker, Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists RJ Hamilton, George Maier
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Rosie Assoulin
SCENE
CAROLINA HERRERA had a lovely show at the Frick Collection. FRIE FRI EDMAN’s EDMAN’ DMAN’s • Before the show, Mrs. H indulged VANESSA FRIEDMAN’s request to take a Snapchat for the NEW EW YORK TIMES. “I wake up to it every day!” the designer enthused. Up next for her: a arolina Herrera: 35 Years of Fashion. book of editorials called Carolina • MONSE hosted its after-party at Samsung 837.
CRYSTAL CHAT! WITH NADJA SWAROVSKI
The Swarovski Collective is now in its 17th year. Why do you think the project generates such enthusiasm? We see the Swarovski Collective members as creative partners: We are the catalyst and they are the vision. The designers love the shine, glamour, and versatility of crystal, and the project challenges them to push the boundaries of crystal craftsmanship. When we put our crystal in the hands of cutting-edge talents, they can create magic.
How do the designers learn about the materials? Swarovski has a catalog of materials beyond imagination. Many of our Collective members do come and visit our headquarters in the Tyrol, Austria, region, and we also have showrooms in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Some arrive with a design in mind, and we choose the elements that can bring the concept to life. Others come with an open mind and end up creating designs based on what they see and are inspired by. It is truly collaborative. What do you like about Rosie Assoulin? Rosie is a very exciting young designer with playful yet powerful collections. You can tell she’s having fun with her designs, yet they are still glamorous and easy to wear. She’s an absolute pleasure to collaborate with.
Carolina Herrera
A MOMENT WITH
KARLIE KLOSS!
CAROLINA HERRERA
Thanks for coming to the FMAs! Did you like Alan Cumming’s St. Louis joke? I wanted to tell him that we grow up extra tall in the Midwest. There’s something in the water. He was really great. Everyone there was super fabulous. I was very honored. You walked in Carolina Herrera last season. What’s it like being on the other side of the fence? I much prefer the other side of it! I love being in shows. But watching is always a good lesson— it’s research.
THE DAILY+#ALDOCREW MONSE PARTY
CHICSTER OF THE DAY BRITTANY HAMPTON @bhampton What are you working on these days?
THE DAILY WONDERS…
WHAT’S YOUR BEAUTY SECRET?
Kate Lanphear: I wish I had a secret. I’m still a little rough around the edges.
Juicy J: I smoke some good weed and chill! Somsack Sikhounmuong: The other day
Laura Kim, Fernando Garcia, and friends at Samsung 837
I put Kiehl’s body lotion on my face. That’s the extent. Cynthia Erivo: I use castile soap. It’s super pure. It keeps my skin really clear, and it cleans it beautifully. I use it every day. Anne Slowey: La Mer, La Mer, La Mer! J. Errico: Ask me on October 7. Giovanna Battaglia Engelbert: La Mer for two months, and then SK-II. I go back and forth. You can’t use the same thing for more than two months! Hamish Bowles: I rely on Tracie Martyn’s magical facials. Hanneli Mustaparta: Be adamant about taking care of your skin. Girls go to bed with their makeup on. That’s not okay. Your pores need to breathe. Also, you should eat broccoli and asparagus. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What’s your dream project? Gosh, I feel like it changes daily! Honestly, it’s to have a ready-to-wear line of my own. The C Colinda, $90
The Tuxedo, $90
BRITTANY’S PICKS All ll available at aldoshoes.com.
The E Eliliane, $90
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After appearing on House of DVF and being Diane Von Furstenberg’s global brand ambassador for a year, E! Networks hired me as a TV correspondent. I got asked to take over their livestream and online exclusives as a style expert on the red carpet for the 2015 Oscars and Met Gala! I am working with Complex magazine on its online content. Taking the steps to continue to be an influencer for the younger generation is my main goal!
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Jason Wu Designer
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RUNWAYReport
PROENZA SCHOULER Color, color, color! That was the big news at Proenza this season, and the haute hues on the runway were met with significant applause postshow. It was a departure from the neutral tones they’ve been loving lately, and it was a huge success. Stripes, a hot trend this season, came in bright pops of Mondrianstyle reds, blues, and yellows. An ultra-desirable multicolored mink coat looked cool styled with a T-shirt cinching the waist, and technical elements were incorporated into handwoven tops and skirts with ostrich feather fringe. On this runway, the clothes themselves were the grand spectacle. If only we could buy this now. But sometimes for the best, you have to wait.
MOVING FORWARD Prabal Gurung’s collection was full of sweet dresses, chic furs, and ultra-luxe knits—well-designed looks to take up prominent real estate in the closets of the most well-heeled chicsters. But look closer and you will see inscriptions of quotes from the speeches of famous women like Susan B. Anthony scribbled onto the print of a dress or a pant’s hem. Gloria Steinem’s My Life on the Road served as one of Gurung’s biggest inspirations...that and a certain lady vying to be the first to hold court in the Oval Office. Smart, trailblazing women will love this collection, which pays tribute to their strength while respecting and celebrating their femininity.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
GETTY IMAGES
PRABAL GURUNG
DKNY Looking fresh! Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne keep the New York City woman top of mind, and this collection was chockfull of practical but cool pavement-pounding numbers. Jumpsuits to live in, oversize fanny packs to stash the essentials, translucent anoraks, slouchy sweaterdresses. And to complete the look? Platform sneakers that can traverse any street. The white pinstripes on black suiting extended beyond the hems in a clever new approach to the tassel. It's definitely adieu to the DKNY woman of yesteryear, but it could be an interesting hello to a next gen adventuress waiting in the bullpen.
THOM BROWNE Stepford wives in preppy trompe l’oeil dresses, men in tiny short suits wearing cat masks, a raven, and an elaborately feathered parrot graced the runway at Thom Browne this season. Whatever goes on in Browne’s mind is a mystery, but do we really need an explanation for this mad genius? Not one, not two, but three looks were worn by each model. The floral bath coats and shower caps came first, followed by Slim Aarons–style looks that were equal parts retro and futuristic, and finally a series of red, white, and blue–striped swimsuits. The crowning jewel was a single silver sequined gown topped off with a disco ball hat inspired by Brown’s cherished dog, Hector. Oh, my, it was fun!
MEO W!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
MODELMogul
CREATIVE COUP WITH TWO SHOWS, FOUR KIDS, AND THREE BRANDS UNDER HER BELT, WHAT CAN’T HEIDI KLUM DO? THE MODEL, WHO’S DABBLED IN DESIGN FOR THE PAST 15 YEARS, IS EXPANDING HER ROLE AS A CREATIVE DIRECTOR WITH THE UPCOMING LAUNCH OF HEIDI KLUM SWIM. BY SYDNEY SADICK When did you first get into fashion design? When I was living in Europe, I designed sleepwear, shoes, dresses, loungewear, and swimsuits for one of the biggest catalog houses in Germany, called Otto. From there, I went on to designing for Birkenstock and pretty much reinvented the sandal. It was looked at as an orthopedic shoe, so I pushed them to be modern again. Over the past 10 years, I’ve done a capsule collection for Jordache, madeto-order swimsuits for Sports Illustrated, and a kids’ line for Babies “R” Us. As a teenager, I was accepted to a fashion design school in Germany, but I won a modeling contest and pursued that instead. Now, so many years later, it’s all turned around again—two years later I started designing lingerie for Bendon. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
How has Heidi Klum Intimates grown? It’s become more modern. I don’t see the push-up as being so trendy anymore—I did that during my 15 years with Victoria’s Secret. Now bras are harder and sexier. I push the envelope. What inspires you on the design front? Traveling and having my eyes open. Because of what I do, I get to go to amazing places like India, Africa, and Mongolia. I love going into small boutiques and flea markets—that’s something I’ve been doing since I was a little girl. I have a huge library at home with the best books in fashion, jewelry, shoes, and accessories. I look at fashion show pictures as soon as they’re on the Internet. We make our own prints, so I’m always thinking about those, and then adding
embellishments. I love going to M&J Trimming. I’m not a huge fan of logos, so I try to keep all of that very small and hidden. You’re launching a swim line in November. Was it a natural progression? Yes, and it’s been a lot of fun. Many of the shapes are very similar in terms of construction. When it comes to both swim and lingerie, the most important things are fit, function, and fun. You wore a one-piece on your Sports Illustrated cover in the ’90s. Are they still sexy? I’m personally not a fan of them. As a designer, you have to cater to women who don’t want to wear twopieces, and we make things for everyone out there. But personally, when I’m on a beach in a country
COURTESY
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where I can take off my top, it’s off. It’s just who I am. The smaller the top, the better! Favorite beaches? I love the beach in Bora Bora and the beautiful, clear water in Turks and Caicos. I love opening my eyes and seeing the starfish and shells. For my next collection, I was inspired by a recent holiday. I said we have to go there to shoot my next collection, and everyone was telling me it wasn’t in my budget. I said I didn’t need a hairdresser or anything—I’d just take a photographer and keep it simple. What makes a good designer? There are designers, and then there are designers. I love haute couture, but most people can’t really wear it—not even me! Maybe just once a year, when you go to the most fabulous red-carpet event. I think good design is about being innovative and coming up with something new, and that’s harder and harder to do now. Any challenges to design work? Not really, just because I love being creative. If you were in my house, you’d see everything I collect. I literally have rocks from all the beaches from around the world that I’ve been to. I also have every boarding pass of every plane I’ve been on. I don’t want to say I’m a hoarder, but I definitely collect things. You front the campaigns for your lines. Have you ever considered choosing someone else? I’m sure at one point I’m going to be done with it, but right now, no. Do you have a mentor in design? No. I’ve always had my own brain with my own ideas. What’s the story behind Heidi Klum Solutions? Sometimes we all need a little help, and now, with so many unusual necklines and open backs, you can’t always wear a bra, so our products will give you a lift without wearing a bra! Is Project Runway really in its 15th season? It is. Time flies. But I’m a mother of four, so I wake up every morning and think about how big my kids are getting. In 15 years, so many things have happened. It’s a huge honor that people are still watching. You have lots of die-hards! It’s interesting—before, a lot of moms watched the show. Now their daughters have grown up, and they’re watching too. We have the next generation hooked! My oldest daughter is 12, and I brought her to the set so many times, because we film during the summer, when the kids aren’t in school. When she was younger, she didn’t care about the show— she’d sit around and say, “This is boring.” Now she’s watching it all on Netflix! She just started the first season, and she said, “Look at your hair! What were you wearing? You look so young!” What can we expect from the designers this season? There are some great designers. I’m actually considering [hiring] one of them, which has never happened before. So special and talented! Have you grown as a judge? In the beginning, I was looking at their work from a model’s perspective. On the red carpet, you’re always being judged, and people are writing about why your clothes work or don’t work. Now, as a designer, I bring something else. You’ve been shooting America’s Got Talent. What’s your dynamic with Simon Cowell? It’s more fun, I have to say. Simon hangs out with us—he tells stories, his baby and girlfriend are there, he laughs with us, we have lunch. We’re more like the four musketeers, if you will, even though we call him Boss Man! I think we have a lot more singers since
American Idol ended too. What’s exciting you in pop culture these days? It’s funny, because when I go to the Emmys, all these shows pop up, and I’m like, “Nope, haven’t seen that!” I watched the season finale of Game of Thrones, but I honestly just don’t have time for much. Between modeling, TV hosting, designing, and being a mom, how do you balance it all? I think you have to be wired that way, and I am. I’d be bored doing just one thing. I think a lot of women are like that—sometimes you ask men to do two things, and it takes them all day to do one. If I wasn’t super busy, I’d be like, “Is there something wrong?” But when I go on holiday, I could just drop a suitcase, lie on the beach, and take in that sun. ß
“I LOVE HAUTE COUTURE, BUT MOST PEOPLE CAN’T REALLY WEAR IT—NOT EVEN ME!”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
BRIGHTIdeas
THE STARTING POINT
DAVID LYNCH’S WILD AT HEART “I actually saw it very recently—last year, initially,” says Altuzarra of the 1990 black comedy starring Nicolas Cage and Laura Dern as star-crossed lovers. “I was doing some research on David Lynch and a very particular sort of mood, and the film had a very strong impact on me. A lot of it was the vibe. Obviously, it has a very twisted outlook on love and life, but it also has a quirky madness and naïveté, which I really liked.”
PYTHON POWER!
Altuzarra was taken with a snakeskin jacket worn by Cage’s character, and he riffed on the idea in several clever iterations. “Initially, we used it in its natural form, in a python shirtdress hemmed with eyelet-embroidered gingham,” says Altuzarra. “We also used the natural python as a trench, and we embroidered cherries in sequins and beads over it.”
DECONSTRUCTING ALTUZARRA BY ASHLEY BAKER
FRUITY EMBROIDERY “In this look, we printed the python with a denim texture, then we over-embroidered it with lemons,” says Altuzarra.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
ARM CANDY
“It’s really important that the bags are always tied to the collections,” says Altuzarra, who debuted fresh versions of best sellers like the Ghianda crossbody and saddle bags, along with a new drawstring style called the Éte. “A lot of women who might not want to buy a blue python dress or top can get into the mood of it with a bag.” GETTY IMAGES (6); CAROLINE FISS (2); EVERETT COLLECTION (2); ALEXANDRA C H A L A U D ( 5 ) ; TAY L O R J E W E L ( 2 ) ; N ATA L I E F O N G ( 1 ) ; A L L OT H E R S C O U R T E S Y
Combining diverse elements into one cohesive statement, Joseph Altuzarra’s Spring ’17 collection was among his best. Here, the designer breaks down how it all came together.
THE NEW POUCH
“THERE’S A LOT OF NOISE AND PRODUCT OUT THERE, SO IT’S REALLY IMPORTANT THAT WE DO SOMETHING THAT FEELS UNIQUE TO OUR BRAND. AS WE GO FORWARD AND BROADEN THE LINE, WE ADD MORE LANGUAGES.”
“The Été bag is based on a beachy little pouch,” Altuzarra says. “I wanted something that felt really easy, light, and unstructured.”
MIXED MESSAGES
In some of Altuzarra’s most striking looks, python-printed chiffon was overembroidered with cherries and strawberries and finished with a python belt.
BRIGHT, BOLD KNITS
“The idea for the knits was to create a counterbalance,” says Altuzarra. “The collection is really saccharine, so I wanted this section to feel more linear and structured.”
SCULPTURAL EARRINGS “I had a lot of pictures of Sade floating around my mood board,” says Altuzarra with a laugh. “I wanted a hoop earring, but it needed to feel really substantial around the face. We started playing around with the idea of a metal band that we then twisted. We mocked it up in paper, and then it was capped in metal. It was done in silver and a bunch of shiny and matte colors. I wanted it to feel really fun and feminine, but also bold.”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
BEAUTYMaster
HE WAS BORN WITH IT Throughout 14 beautiful seasons of New York Fashion Week, Maybelline New York’s Madridbased makeup artist and ambassador Gato has been giving models makeovers before they hit the runway. Isn’t it about time you learned more about the guy with the gift of gorgeousness? BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER
What was your first beauty-related gig? It was 100 percent unprofessional. I was 12, and one of my best friend’s brothers won two tickets to a very important music awards in Spain. We were trying out makeup looks for her to wear. I realized how fun it was, and that it was instinctive. That was the first time I tried a makeup kit. What look did you give her? Even thinking about it today, it was modern: a smoky eye with fresh skin, nothing on the lips. This was 1992, the middle of the grunge era. Who influenced your interest in beauty? When I was really young—5 or so—I was on the beach, and a freckled girl with ginger hair came up to FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
me. I thought that she was the most beautiful girl on the planet. And of course my mom’s makeup kit—the packaging and the colors they used in the ’80s. It’s impossible to forget those great colors. What were you like as a kid? I wasn’t a tomboy who wanted to play sports. I was calm and quiet, perfectly happy staying in my room and painting. I loved painting faces onto my textbooks, and Japanese cartoons. Anime was, and still is, a big influence on my work. I started looking at fashion magazines when I was really, really young. I had three favorites: American Elle, Cosmopolitan, and French Vogue, which was the most sophisticated and premium magazine of the time. It was very difficult
to find the magazine in Spain then, but my mother always found a way to get it. You started out as a painter. My mom sent me to art school when I was 8 because I loved to paint. I started to paint portraits for people, and enhancing the way they looked, making the lashes a little bit longer, changing the pigment of the lips. People love the way they look when I do their portraits. I made my first money doing that that. Have you ever painted a self-portrait? No, never! I don’t know why. I preferred to work with women, even now, with models. Why did you leave the art world to pursue a career in makeup? When I was a teenager, I started to get tired of painting portraits, and I was so obsessed with fashion. All I wanted to do was look at fashion magazines. After high school, I was so sure that I wanted to be a makeup artist and I convinced my family that it was a real profession. Did you have a mentor? I have two. I started to assist a very big makeup artist at the time, Lewis Amarante. He taught me everything he knows about fashion and makeup. Maybelline is my other mentor, and by far the biggest in my career. Since the first time I worked with them, eight years ago, they’ve supported me in every single thing I do, like when I wanted to go to LA to study special FX. And they bring me to NYFW, which is a dream for every makeup artist. Does your special FX training ever come into play? It helps with mixing colors and learning new techniques, but I’ve never used it as a prosthetics artist. It’s a shame! When I saw Maleficent and [Angelina Jolie’s] cheeks, I was like, OK, this is the kind of thing that I want to learn! Which designers are you working with this season? It’s the second time I’m working with Marissa Webb and the third time working with Naeem Khan. I’m also working with Rebecca Minkoff, leading the team with Amanda Steele, a very important beauty influencer. She doesn’t have experience leading a show, but I think that could be good. She’ll have a very fresh point of view. Also, I’m working with Jonathan Simkhai. I love the way he creates modern, futuristic fashion. What’s your creative process during NYFW? First I look at the designer’s previous collections. I want to understand the style and the evolution, and I try to forget about the makeup. When fitting time comes, I go to the studio and they talk to me about the inspiration. I also ask for three or four adjectives that describe the kind of woman they want people
GOLDEN MOMENTS
FIRSTVIEW; GETTY IMAGES (2); ALL OTHERS COURTESY
BETSEY JOHNSON SS13 to see. It’s important for me to know the casting to pick the best kind of makeup. After that, I show two proposals to the designer. Sometimes they don’t know what they are looking for, and I think that’s one of the most important parts of my job. The makeup should be something that represents the collection, but it should express things that are not easily visible. Some collections are very cool and modern, and if you create makeup that’s the same style, people will only see a cool and modern collection. But if we go for a feminine and romantic makeup look, people are going to see more details and another side to the collection. What are some of the less conventional products you’ve used backstage? The weirdest thing I’ve done is applied plaster to models’ entire faces. After it dried, I removed it, and the effect was a white, powdery skin. The model almost looked vintage. You’re also studying packaging and design. Is that next for you? As an artist, you have to study all the time to renew yourself. Product design allows you to learn so many different things: color, illustration, how to draw on the computer in 2-D and 3-D. But I’m not looking to change my career! Do you often work with celebrities? I’m grateful and lucky to have worked with amazing celebrities like Penélope Cruz, Salma Hayek, and Christy Turlington, but I don’t consider myself a celebrity makeup artist. Those artists usually travel with the celebrity. When I studied to become a makeup artist, I knew that I wanted to do fashion. What’s a recent fashion campaign you’ve worked on? The Maybelline campaign that’s launching during Fashion Week. It was my first time working with Adriana Lima, and it was amazing. The look was inspired by New York. The image that comes to mind when I think of New York is the grid of streets. So I used those types of lines to create a beautiful smoky eye. For the lips I wanted to focus on movement. You know when you are in the theater and you’re wearing 3-D glasses, and when you remove them you see two different colors on the screen? I wanted to create that effect on the mouth. I used matte and opaque lipstick in a dark berry called Black as Berry, and I defined the contour and the center with Fairy Fuchsia. Then I applied a big layer of gloss. So what’s new on the beauty front? Women are asking for easy products—they don’t have more than 10 minutes to spend in front of the mirror. There’s something good about social media, Instagram, YouTube tutorials. Before, women didn’t know the difference between foundation, concealer, highlighter…blah, blah, blah. Now they have so many different techniques at hand. And everyone is strobing—adding light on the upper cheekbones, at the center of the forehead, in the Cupid’s bow. Contouring the eyebrows—making them sharp, solid, and well-defined—is a trend that will stay through fall. I love the Brow Perfecting Highlighter for that. ß
“It was one of the most crazy shows and makeup looks of my career. The inspiration was a pinup from the future, with fake black eyebrows, glitter lips, and a diamond as a mole. Cindi Lauper performed!”
CUSTO BARCELONA SS09
“It was the first time I came to New York, and suddenly I was surrounded by journalists backstage. It was crazy—I was younger than most of the assistants!”
NAEEM KHAN SS15
“The collection was amazing, the casting and hair was beautiful, and the makeup was flawless. My team did a great job and the show was epic—one of those magical moments.”
WORKING WITH CHRISTY TURLINGTON “She’s one of my favorite models, ever. To be at her house doing her makeup was unforgettable. She has one of the most exquisite, elegant, perfectly balanced faces on the planet, a dream for any makeup artist.”
FALL FACES
Maybelline New York Brow Precise Perfecting Highlighter and Face Studio Master Strobing Stick embrace fall’s hottest trends.
MY FIRST SHOW WITH MARISSA WEBB LAST SEASON “She created the coolest collection possible. The double eyeliner in black and silver was beloved.”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CAMPAIGN MASTERS (From left) Carl Jesper Versfeld and Katie Green are pushing Aldo forward with a social media–centric fall campaign, shot by acclaimed photographer Mikael Jansson.
IMAGE MAKERS While well-loved for keeping our fall boot game strong, Aldo is about much more than simply shoes—and its latest campaign, shot by Mikael Jansson, and new digitally decked-out downtown store are perfect examples. Creative director Carl Jesper Versfeld and senior director of communications Katie Green step in with the details. BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What’s the idea behind the fall campaign, #AldoMovesMe? Carl Jesper Versfeld: We sell the shoes, the jewelry, and the accessories, but we don’t really sell the whole outfit. The way we approached this campaign was to create this new look and feel, something fresh and cool. We worked a lot with movement through the collage, and it taps into our core philosophy to inspire and move forward. Connecting the images like a collage was a way to contextualize our style while showcasing product. How is this a departure from past campaigns? Carl: We want to elevate the perception of Aldo as a brand and a key voice when it comes to footwear and accessories. We spent a lot of time thinking through how we were going to execute this, including who we would work with, photographer Mikael Jansson and stylist Alex White. While it’s a big departure from what we’ve done in the past, it stays very much true to the core of what Aldo has always stood for: to inspire people to find their own style. Why did you choose Mikael to shoot it? Carl: Mikael is one of the world’s best photographers, and I’ve been following his work for more than 15 years. He captures the personality of the models, and he’s an amazing collaborator. When you’re doing something new like this, you need someone who can collaborate. And why did you choose to include a hashtag? Katie Green: Fashion and social media have become so intertwined, and we’re looking to grow our digital
presence. As a young brand that speaks to the social media generation, we saw #AldoMovesMe as a play on words that tethers itself to the campaign concept but also has a cool emotional tie. When you think of moving someone, that can be a state of mind or inspiration. We want this hashtag to be used by our social media community and build influencer-driven content. It’s a vehicle for consumers to share how they express themselves with the brand. Let’s talk shoes. What’s new for fall? Katie: There’s a lot of classic appeal, but with the right dose of sophistication. It’s fresh, yet very premium, including our color palette— mink, burnt orange, blush. It’s very much driven by the season’s trends. Even the way we’re playing with heel heights and textures is premium and sexy. There’s a richness to the textiles, a lot of beautiful suedes in different tones, rich leathers, jacquard, and metallics. And with accessories? Katie: There’s no denying that chokers are where it’s at right now. Whether it’s woven, suede, or velvet—another big trend—we’ve got something for everyone. In terms of bags and accessories, we’re big on the charms and adding playfulness. The Aldo app got a makeover, too. Katie: The original app came out in August 2015, and it was named iTunes’ Best New App in Canada and the U.S. when it first launched. This summer, we launched a new feature called “Request to try on,” which coincides with the opening of our store at Westfield World Trade Center in NYC. As shoppers enter the mall, they’re met with push notifications from the app, instantly linking them to the store and giving them access to product images, descriptions, social media sharing features, and the store’s inventory. They can request to try on without having to speak to a sales associate, and a runner in the back will bring out the shoes. It gives customers the freedom to shop, easily locate styles, and if the style isn’t available, the app directs them to something similar. It gives the customer more autonomy and a more meaningful interaction with our sales associates. How is Aldo staying in touch with its customers? Katie: We know through research that social media is playing a big role in purchase decisions. We’re putting a lot of energy into innovative technologies to help make the customer journey seamless. Whether it’s providing more contextualized, behind-the-scenes, or user-generated content, or invitations to our events, we want to give inside access that didn’t exist before. What tech advancements are being made in stores? Katie: We’ll have The Endless Shelf, a large touch screen that we’ll roll out in many of our connected stores. Customers can use it to request to try on and browse product in the store. So what’s “moving” Aldo these days? Katie: We just had a monumental store opening at Westfield World Trade Center. It’s a nod to our love for New York. Even though it’s not a huge square footage, it’s one of our most special stores. I see it as a beacon of the future of Aldo, especially in terms of digital connectivity. ß
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VOLUME 19 ISSUE 179.3
SHALLOT U LT R A - P HO N Y N E W S Y OU M U S T P E RU S E !
HIGHLIGHTS MUSIC
In wake of the Yeezy Season 4 debacle, Kanye West releases song that claims to immediately eliminate any symptoms of PTSD, 11
MODELING Trump Models “gutted” by Namila’s Spring ’17 collection, "What did we ever do to them?" asks agency's flack, 3A
INSIDE ECONOMY
Study finds that 81% of fashion and media workers start looking for new jobs during NYFW, 34C
MEDIA
Teen Vogue now publishing 4.25 issues a year, 22Z
CONDÉ NAST TAPS ELON MUSK TO CREATE NEXT GENERATION OF EXECUTIVES
Condé Nast has announced a new investment in technology: The publishing company enlisted Elon Musk to conceptualize a new editor/publisher hybrid in robotic form that is expected to phase out executives at both levels by 2025. “We aim to harness what Elon has done with the self-driving car, and use that knowledge to create what we call Senior Operating Brandbuilders,” a company source told the Shallot, crunching numbers over an iced coffee at Juan Valdez Café. As part of his initial research, Musk and his team have been researching characteristics of early-aughts Cindi Leive, pre-recession Tom Florio, and the entire lifespan of Graydon Carter. “It’s an expensive proposition, but within two years of having no toplevel staff on the payroll, we’ll have recouped our investment,” exclaims the source. “And staffers will love our SOBs—we’re designing them to be completely devoid of moods!”
SWIMWEAR BRANDS ENJOY MOST PROFITABLE SEPTEMBER ON RECORD
What happens when peacocking editors who spend far too much time in The Class by Taryn Toomey experience an Indian summer during NYFW? Yet another opportunity to show off their corps. “I loved sharing my bikini body with my Instagram followers during August vacation, and those posts elicited a very strong response,” said Hannah Dello-Looso, a flamboyant stylist who credits her eternally taut physique to naked swimming in the pool of the Ritz. So for Dello-Looso’s first NYFW appearance, she showed up at Noon By Noor sporting a Chromat monokini, and the look spawned hundreds of Snapchat spoofs. “It’s comfortable, functional, and seasonally appropriate,” declared athleisure-clad blogger Notso Humble, reapplying Bain de Soleil to her upper thigh. “And totally more modest than half the things at Jonathan Simkhai!”
ALL VISUALS ARE COMPOSITE WORKS OF ART CREATED BY THE CHIC SHALLOT FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
WE ATHER
PAGE 2
Forecast: 109° and oppressive, with a likely chance of designer meltdowns
FASHION INFLUENCERS ARE JUST AS CONFUSED AS THE REST OF US
In the past decade, the front-row hierarchy has rapidly evolved. These days, nebulously defined “fashion influencers”—with little in common except for having more followers than your magazine on Instagram—have been anointed by practically everyone as the Next Big Something. “Can you believe I made $528,124 last year?” says Serena Bombastic, propped on top of a tower of new designer sticky notes in the front row at Rebecca Minkoff. “I just started posting photos of my cats dressed in toilet paper gowns, and all of the sudden, I’m buying my parents a swimming pool.” The Instagram feed of the 12-year-old fifth grader, who lives in a suburb of Indianapolis and has been dubbed “the Rei Kawakubo of the Internet” by DuJour, says she is currently commanding $15,000 per sponsored post. “The only challenge is figuring out how to get my cats to promote Waxe Body Spray in a way that feels legitimate to my discerning audience of high-net-worth pet-loving teenage consumers,” says Bombastic. “But I’m confident that I can execute it with authenticity and verve.”
GETTY IMAGES (5); SHUTTERSTOCK; COURTESY
THE CHIC
SEP T E MBER EDI T ION
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Patti Jordan Lecturer, Visual Merchandising Paula Vasquez '18 Visual Merchandising
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