The Daily Front Row

SEPTEMBER 2020

YEARS OF COOL

AND!

THE [totally inside] GUIDE TO THE

WE

TOMMY!

WEIRDEST FASHION WEEK EVER!

PLUS!

MEET THE NEW A-LIST (It’s Not What You Think)

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MOVING FORWA

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WARD TOGETHER

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Italy, Where Beauty is The Art LUXURY! HERITAGE! EXCLUSIVITY! Coinsiding with the launch of Beauty Made in Italy's first ever digital magazine 12 of the country's most elite brands will descend upon New York Fashion Week for an intimate luncheon at Scarpetta on September 15. Beauty insiders will be treated to an array of products to sample and luxe visual activations to share on social media. Don't miss a chance to be truly in-the-know on these must-see brands as they take to the States. All the action will be floodng the channels below this week!

BEAUTYMADEINITALY.COM @BEAUTYMADEINITALY

#BEAUTYMADEINITALY #IBEAUTY

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM @DAILYFRONTROW

RIPAR COSMETICS

Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation

PERLIER

ACCA KAPPA

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SKIN&CO ROMA

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“NYFW celebrates the ingenuity of this city, and our unmatched creative talent.”

HALIMA ADEN

SCENE • Bonjour, darlings! We missed you. Things

are a little different this season, but your Daily is still here for you. What to expect this season? Masks instead of air kisses and sanitizer instead of bubbles. This year, it’s a six-feet-apart world, so there’s sadly no parties. No epic NYFW hangovers to complain about either! What matters is that NYFW is still on! (Kinda!)

KARLIE KLOSS

MODEL

MASTHEAD! A growing trend in 2020?

Models adding editor roles to their already jam-packed resumes.

RANDOM ALERT!

HOME IMPROVEMENT

GOES FASHION!?

Lowe’s—yes, you read that right—is the unlikely addition to the calendar this season. The home improvement chain collaborated with Jason Wu, Christian Siriano, and Rebecca Minkoff on the backdrops for their presentations. With this partnership, everyone can shop the décor pieces straight from the runway and, literally, take the show home with us.

Your move, Home Depot!

Gigi Hadid spent quarantine working on “Gigi’s Journal, Part II” under V’s creative platform. She also photographed and directed her sis Bella’s shoot for Elle. Halima Aden joined Vogue Arabia as diversity editor at large. Amber Valletta became British Vogue’s first-ever sustainability editor. Most unexpected news? Karlie Kloss and Kaia Gerber stepped in to help save W Magazine.

AMBER VALLETTA

Attention! Attention!

KAIA GERBER

GETTY IMAGES (11); ALL OTHER IMAGES COURTESY

Head to fashionweekdaily.com to check out our new calendar section. We have the complete NYFW calendar with links to the digital shows. Check in every day from here on all year around.

ERIC GOES EAST! Congrats to InStyle alum Eric Wilson, who is now editor in chief of Tatler Hong Kong and editorial director of Tatler Asia. Major!

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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Retouched by an Angel BACK BY POPULAR DEMAND!

November’s election isn’t too far off. Allow us to offer our image consultancy services to the presidential hopefuls.

Pro bono, of course.

OBSESSIONS!

GONE

BUT NOT FORGOTTEN!

SIES MARJAN

After the runaway global success of the Pouch—as seen everywhere on Instagram and IRL—all eyes are on Daniel Lee to see what Bottega Veneta has been cooking up in the accessories department. Enter: Fall’s offering, with a unique twist on the iconic brand's astheitc. Divine!

2016–2020 PLAYBOY MAGAZINE

1953–2020 NEIMAN MARCUS HUDSON YARDS

2019–2020 LORD & TAYLOR

1914–2020 SWEATPANTS

2020–2020

BABY BUZZ!

Our golden girl, Gigi, is going to be a mama! How fitting that her baby will be born in September, the fashion world’s most important month. The only question: What magazine cover will baby Hadid-Malik grace first?

Say hello to the next generation of supers! Hilary Rhoda recently welcomed her first son, Nash, with ice-hockey-star husband Sean Avery.

(Good looks and athleticism? Can’t say we’re not jealous!) Romee Strijd is expecting a girl with her teenage sweetheart, Laurens van Leeuwen.

Awww! Strijd’s Victoria’s Secret alum Jessica Hart and NASCAR driver James Kirkham also announced that they’re having a baby, too. See you on the catwalks in 2040!

FAMILY TIES!

THINGS TO DISCUSS: KATIE GRAND is saying farewell to LOVE, the fashion bible she founded in 2009. All eyes on her new project—The Perfect Magazine.

Joseph Altuzarra’s Fall collection is inspired by his family’s journey from Shanghai to America in the 1940s, so it’s no surprise he enlisted his nearest and dearest to model the wares.

The designer photographed his grandma Jeannette Wei, mom Karen Altuzarra, cousin Lily Scout Kwong, and his daughter Emma AltuzarraWeissman, in what might just be the sweetest campaign we’ve ever seen.

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THE KARDASHIANS are going off the air after 20 seasons. And queue…the spin-offs! Speaking of, we spied Kendall’s framed Daily cover during her AD house tour! J’adore!

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KIM JONES is now heading up Fendi.

Finally a replacement for Karl Lagerfeld.

He’s also keeping his role as creative director at Dior Homme. Bonne chance!

MICHAEL KORS is unveiling his collection in October. Will other designers follow suit and make October the new September?

MAN REPELLER has rebranded to simply Repeller. Okay, then…

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Brandusa Niro Editor in Chief, CEO Chief Content Officer Eddie Roche

SCENE • Since the front row in New York will basically

Summer might be ending, but the East End’s fitness gurus are staying put.

Alongside The Reform Club, Nina Agdal is hosting biketo-beach workouts every other Thursday and Saturday morning outdoor sessions.

The beat goes on past Labor Day, thanks to Katia Pryce’s outdoor DanceBody classes at The Clubhouse.

Tracy Anderson’s devotees can get their alfresco fix in Water Mill until October 12.

And ONEYOGAHOUSE has officially opened its indoor studio in Montauk. Work it!

Fashion Editor Freya Drohan Editors-at-Large Charlotte Bickley and Sophie Bickley Art Director Teresa Platt Copy Editor Joseph Manghise

Chief Marketing Officer Alex Dickerson Fashion Publishing Director Monica Forman Marketing Manager Nandini Vaid Digital Operations Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor

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October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. For the first time, LAGOS is partnering with the Breast Cancer Research Foundation to launch an pink version of its ceramic Smart Caviar watch bracelet—with 20 percent of the purchase price going to the organization. Get yours at lagos.com or Bloomingdale’s.

Hamptons Editor Lizzi Bickford

Imaging Specialists Nola Romano, George Maier

LIGHTNING ZOLT!

BAUBLES OF THE DAILY!

Creative Director Dean Quigley

To advertise, e-mail: advertising@dailyfrontrow.com The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright © 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 810 Seventh Avenue, Ste. 400A, New York, NY 10019.

MARC, COULD WE LOVE YOU ANY MORE?

ON THE COVER

Tommy Hilfiger, photographed by Craig McDean.

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FITNESS BUZZ!

be MIA this season (Waaaahhh), we thought we’d look back on some of our fave front-row moments from years past to fill the hole in our hearts. From Paris Hilton to Lil’ Kim to Cyndi, we’ll never take you for granted again!...

One designer who is showing is Christian Siriano and he’s bringing editors and models to his Connecticut house for a socially distanced runway show in his backyard on Thursday.

Everyone going has to sign a health-andsafety release. Bathrooms will be sanitized between each guest for your comfort and safety. Chic!

Managing Editor Tangie Silva

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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NICOLEMILLER.COM

|

@ N I C O L E M I L L E R N YC |

CA SUAL C O L L ECT I O N

ChicMOMENTS

LEGENDS of the FALL Max Mara and THE DAILY SUMMER hosted an exclusive shopping experience at The Reform Club. Set in the heart of Amagansett, it’s one of the Hamptons’ most luxurious and picturesque resort destinations.

The chic and intimate event was co-hosted

by The Daily’s Hamptons and Palm Beach Editor, Lizzi Bickford, alongside fashion and lifestyle tastemakers Casey Fremont, Lauren Remington Platt, Georgina Bloomberg, and Elisabeth Munder. Guests were treated to an exclusive walkthrough of Max Mara’s Pre-Fall and Winter 2020 collections. While shopping for cold-weather items—including Max Mara’s iconic Teddy Coat, sleek leather pants, classic cashmere sweaters, silk skirts, and tonal tops in neutral and jewel hues— guests sipped classic Italian cocktails, such as peach bellinis and elderflower spritzes, and enjoyed farm-to-table nibbles from Rosie’s.

This quintessential Hamptons experience took place on the grounds of 21 House, a luxurious cottage at The Reform Club. The property’s robust modern-art collection and stunning floral arrangements by celebrated Hamptons florist Arthur Golabek proved to be the perfect backdrop to the timeless fashion on display.

Max Mara’s on-site stylists Deborah Buck snuggles in the must-have Teddy Coat.

Paige Kramer

Juliana Gutowski in Max Mara

Photography by HANNAH TURNER-HARTS Event co-host Casey Fremont, Austin Fremont, and Shelly Fremont FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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Brittney Morom and Lizzi Bickford in Max Mara

Out East Rosé founder Cori Lee Seaberg

Christopher Bickford and event co-host Lauren Remington Platt

Casey Fremont, Carolyn Angel, and Paige Kramer Juliana Gutoswksi, Corri Brumit, and Elisabeth Munder

Arlene Angard and Vilma Oakley

Lisa and Jeff Fields Elisabeth Munder and Casey Fremont

SPECIAL THANKS TO...

Out East, Rosie’s, The Calling, and Arthur Golabek Flowers

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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HappyANNIVERSARY

FLASHBACK Hilfiger has been a pioneer of innovative and memorable campaigns over the years.

FOREVER COOL

Anyone who has ever crossed paths with TOMMY HILFIGER can’t help but love the guy. You almost forget that this kind and rare gentlemen is one of the great disrupters in American fashion—a true pioneer, a designer who has always known how to reset the brand and keep it youthful. This year, he celebrates (ready for this?) 35 years in business, so we thought it was the perfect time to look back on some of the company’s many milestones with the man himself.

By EDDIE ROCHE Rolling Stones, the Beatles, Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, all the Woodstock favorites, and all the cool rock bands that were just surfacing. I wanted to be a musician, but I wasn’t a good singer or guitar player. But I wanted to look like the musicians.

My friends started dressing like rock stars, and everyone wanted to know where we got our clothes.

We would get them on St. Mark’s Place in the East Village at the time, when [venue] Fillmore East was on Second Avenue and East Seventh Street. There were concerts and happenings every night. A couple of friends and I decided to open a shop to sell these cool clothes to our friends and people in the community of Elmira, New York, which is upstate.

We called it People’s Place because we wanted to make it a place for the people. We had a record shop, band practice at night, a café, and a hair salon; it was like a mini experience for people who wanted to be in the fashion and music scene.

How did you veer into doing it on your own?

I started designing jeans for my stores and had them made locally. I found that the customers were gravitating toward my designs much more than they were other styles from other vendors. I thought maybe I could start my own brand, which was a dream of mine. In 1979, I moved to New York City and started Tommy Hill. Tommy Hill was about cool sportswear. Then I met [clothing manufacturer] Mohan Murjani, who owned Gloria Vanderbilt Jeans at the time. He asked me if I would partner with him to do Tommy Hilfiger.

At that time I didn’t want to do Tommy Hilfiger because who could possibly pronounce Hilfiger?

He said, “Are you kidding me? Who can pronounce Yves Saint Laurent?” We did Tommy Hilfiger in 1985 and launched it as a menswear brand; the whole collection was designed by me for me. We found it was an alternative to what was out there.

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Let’s go down memory lane! What comes to mind when you pause to think that the brand is 35?

It seems like it went by much too quickly. In looking back, it’s kind of exciting to think that dreams do come true. When I was starting out, I was dreaming of being a global brand. In the very, very beginning, we were an American brand in America. When we went to Europe and Asia, I saw incredible opportunity, which has served us very well. When we positioned the brand as a premium brand that was accessible to everyone, I didn’t think it would become such an important statement 35 years down the road. Now more than ever, being that global, lifestyle accessible brand is the sweet spot, the perfect position for us to be in.

Tell us a little bit about how it all began with People’s Place. What was that?

When I was a teenager, my friends and I were going to concerts a lot. We loved rock music—the

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It was cool/preppy. That has stayed with us for 35 years, while evolving and changing along the way.

When did you first realize it was taking off?

Right after the launch in 1985! We opened a store on Columbus Avenue. At that time, you couldn’t find oversize and relaxed chinos and button-down shirts and polo shirts. Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren were a little more traditional. Mine were relaxed. I washed everything to get rid of the chemicals. They were rumpled and wrinkled and colorful. It was a new trend for young people.

How did you market the brand at first?

An advertising genius by the name of George Lois showed me what I should be doing in advertising.

When I first met him I said I wanted to photograph a great-looking model out in the Hamptons on the beach with wind blowing. He said, “No, no, no! If you do that, it will take you years and years and millions of dollars to become known and get anyone to pay attention. Everyone does that.” He showed me ads from Calvin, Ralph, Perry Ellis, and others that basically all looked pretty much the same. Both Calvin and Ralph were doing black and white by Bruce Weber with thoroughbred horses. If you were to take the names off the ads, you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference. He said if you do something like that, you’ll look like everyone else. He showed me this campaign that compared me to the big designers of the time. I said I couldn’t do that. He said I had to be disruptive. We decided to take the chance and be disruptive, and it worked. Everyone came to know the brand and the name. It was still a lot of hard work to keep up with the competition and build great collections every year.

When did you realize you had achieved something huge?

I never really wanted to bask in thinking that I had made it. The minute that would happen, I would fail. I say that from experience. People’s Place was so successful in the ’70s. We were opening stores left and right on colleges campuses and overexpanding. One day the accountants came to us and said we were overinventoried and had a problem. It forced us into a bankruptcy. That taught me a great lesson.

You won the CFDA Award for menswear early on. What did that mean to you at the time?

I was very proud to win the CFDA Award, but one of my partners whispered in my ear that night something that will always stick with me. He said that winning awards will not change the business.

Becoming humbled at an early age was beneficial to me.

How did the Tommy logo come about?

I met these graphic artists in San Francisco, and they wanted to know what kind of logo I wanted. I said I wanted the line to be nautical because I love yachting and sailing. They went for a semaphore nautical alphabet, where all the nautical flags are a different letter. They put a T and an H together.

I thought it looked cool. The Tommy Hilfiger name was inside the blue bars. I thought it was great as an overall logo, but then I saw Nike take the name Nike off their swoosh in the late ’80s.

When they did that, I thought my next goal is to push the brand where it’s known well enough that I can take the name off the flag and still have the identification recognized. I did that in 1999, and today most people do know what the flag is.

You’ve done some major collaborations over the years with various celebrities.

My goal is to keep the brand eternally youthful. I believe choosing the right partner to bring new ideas to the brand is important. We have an incredibly youthful design team, but every once in a while a dose of inspiration from the outside world is beneficial.

The Gigi Hadid collab was so successful.

Gigi was a dream. The first day she came in to design with us she was supposed to spend two hours and she spent the entire day. She spent eightplus hours. She got into every detail, every fabric; she tried on everything. She brought us ideas that we weren’t necessarily ready for. She wanted all her jeans and pants to be very high-waisted. She wanted more crop tops. She wanted the skirts to be long and flowing. She brought us a lot of great inspiration. She worked with my sister Ginny [Hilfiger] on the collection, and they came up with something that was very Tommy—’90s-inspired but relevant and modern for today.

And then you went on to work with Zendaya.

It was Zendaya and her stylist Law Roach. When they came to us, they didn’t want to do anything similar to what we did with Gigi. They wanted to do something totally different. They brought in images of stars like Diana Ross, Bianca Jagger, and Faye Dunaway [for inspiration]. I thought, we’ve never done this, but we did something out of our comfort zone that became successful. It helped our womenswear become much chicer than it had been in the past.

Your show with Zendaya last year at the Apollo Theater in Harlem had an almost all-black cast.

Our brand was founded on the values of inclusion and diversity, and so it was natural that we cast an amazing group of models from various backgrounds, sizes, ages, and ethnicities for our Tommy x Zendaya show. Looking back, I’m proud of the show and its inclusion, but there’s always more to do to promote equality and equity. As part of our efforts, we recently joined the Black in Fashion Council, and have just launched our People’s Place Program, a multiyear plan that will seek to advance the representation of black, indigenous, and people of color [BIPOC] within the fashion and creative industries. I look forward to seeing the fashion industry become a force for good in the fight for equality for all.

Your presentations are always memorable and a real moment. Why do you like doing these big shows?

I liken them to going out on a music tour. Early on in the mid 1990s, we sponsored the Rolling Stones tour and I went on tour with them. The excitement was in setting up, rehearsing, and then seeing the crowds come into the stadium with the music playing. I wanted to take the energy behind that as inspiration in doing my fashion shows.

Music is such a big part of your life. Who have been your inspirations?

I’ve always loved the Rolling Stones. I always thought they were exciting on stage, and I love the music. David Bowie was a major favorite of mine. When we did the David Bowie and Iman campaign, it was one of my favorite moments. I love Led Zeppelin and the Who. The British rock groups were very cool. Then again, Jimi Hendrix was in his own world.

TEAM PLAYER Hilfiger has had recent and wildly successful collaborations with Zendaya, Lewis Hamilton, and Gigi Hadid.

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HappyANNIVERSARY CAMPAIGN TRAIL Hilfiger has enlisted models such as Carolyn Murphy, Alton Mason, and Halima Aden to appear in his global Moving Forward Together campaign (left), which came out earlier this month.

TOMMY LOVEFEST! “Whenever anyone refers to ’Tommy,’ there’s only one person they can ever be referring to. Tommy, you’ve achieved that level of fame because you exemplify the best that American fashion has to offer— ingenious, entrepreneurial, and loaded with the belief that style is, at its best, diverse and democratic. Happy anniversary!”

—ANNA WINTOUR, editor in chief, Vogue; artistic director, Condé Nast U.S.; global content adviser, Condé Nast

Your Moving Forward Together campaign was released this month. Tell us about it.

We’ve often thought about my initial inspiration and experience in the fashion business, which was in 1970.

That was with People’s Place. That has been part of the inspiration of being a brand for the people. Trey Laird and our team worked together in trying to figure out what kind of message we should put forth. This was before COVID-19 and before the protests. We shot it in L.A. on March 13th and 14th, and everyone shut down on the 15th. We put it in the can prior to the COVID explosion. We sat on it until now because we wanted it to be our Fall message. It’s appropriate for what’s going on in the world. It also has to do with our brand being inclusive and diverse all along.

You were a pioneer in the see-now, buy-now concept.

We were completely convinced that the consumers didn’t want to see something on the runway and wait six or seven months later to get the product. The

millennials wanted immediate gratification. We were right. They also wanted an experience that normal fashion shows wouldn’t give them. We created these big fashion extravaganzas that were experiences that were resonating all over social media. The carnival show at the pier at South Street Seaport [in 2016] garnered more than 2 billion media impressions across social media channels. It just built from there when we went on the world tour. We changed our outlook on the entire industry. I have to credit my team for figuring out how to do it really well.

Did you have any fear of it not working out? Do you operate that way?

Always! We’re always confident but fearful. We always want to be disruptive.

You published your memoir, American Dreamer, in 2016. What was that process like?

It was really tear-jerking at times. It gave me chills.

It brought me back to the early days when I would

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You’ve also created the Make It Possible program, the brand’s new environmental and social sustainability program. How did that come about?

I think anything is possible. I’m living proof. I was a terrible student in school. I was poised to never make it. If you put your mind and hard work into it, you can make things possible. Sustainability is a major focus of ours as a company. We want to become fully sustainable in the near future, and we’re going to do it because anything is possible.

We’re going to get there. We’re also never going to lose focus on being inclusive and diverse in everything we do. We have a long track record of driving sustainability at Tommy Hilfiger, but this is our most ambitious sustainability program to date; it’s an all-encompassing 10-year plan to fully embrace end-to-end circularity and empower all our employees across corporate, retail, and production lines.

“Tommy is an American designer at heart and an ambassador for our industry on a global level.

His creativity combined with his push for innovation is an inspiration. CFDA is so proud to count him among our membership. We’re excited to see what the future holds for Tommy, and we congratulate him on this important milestone.”—STEVEN KOLB, CEO, CFDA

“I’m eternally inspired by Tommy Hilfiger and his amazing team. From my first meeting with him to shooting the campaign, walking shows and attending the Met Gala, he has made me feel like family. I’ve been so fortunate to spend quality time with Tommy. His heart and ideas are so big. The support of my Tommy family means so much to me.”

—WINNIE HARLOW, model

“Tommy’s impact on American fashion is as prevalent today as it was 35 years ago. No matter what world he created, it all felt distinctly Tommy. Navigating through those allowed him to dimensionalize the brand in a way very few have been able to.”

—RONNIE FIEG, founder, CEO, and creative director, Kith

“The mark of a great designer is talent, curiosity, and intuition, but when it comes to Tommy Hilfiger, he’s all that and a great American! I’ve known Tommy since he launched his first collection in the 1980s, and he has remained a friend and one of the most real and caring professionals in the business. He has the same unbridled passion and zest for his work today as he did 35 yeas ago. Tommy, I adore you!”

—JIM MOORE, creative director at large, GQ; author; menswear creative consultant

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FRESH FACES The brand has long been an advocate of including diverse models in its campaigns.

basically sketch out ideas on napkins and work directly with the factories and the seamstress. I would also present and sell the collection to the retailers. It brought me back to the beginning days of People’s Place and how I learned retail as a teen.

At the same time, I wanted to write the book when I wrote it because in years to come, I might forget everything. What I found was that my memory kicked in and I remembered things that I had forgotten about. That was exciting.

What were people surprised to learn about you?

I was completely transparent and honest about the ups and downs. Maybe outsiders think I made it overnight. It was a lot of trials and tribulations—a bankruptcy, a divorce, having children with special needs, and having real financial problems off and on.

I was shut out of various groups of fashion people who didn’t think I was cool enough, because my clothes were not couture or on the runways of Paris.

“Sending a huge congratulations to my good friend and mentor Tommy Hilfiger on 35 incredible years in the fashion industry. Tommy’s hard work, determination, and commitment, blended with his creative mind and incredible spirit, have made Tommy Hilfiger the iconic brand it is today. I’ve learned so much alongside Tommy over the years, and I’m so humbled and grateful for these experiences.”

—LEWIS HAMILTON, Formula One World Champion driver

This has been a rough year for all of us. How have you been able to stay optimistic as a businessperson?

I’ve lived in a lot of the unknown and fear factor from mid-March until June, when I decided to shake it and put my energy into thinking about the future and engaging with the teams and rallying the troops. You can get caught up in being brought down by the negativity and watching too much news and becoming depressed. I wanted to put all my positive energy into being constructive.

What advice do you have for younger designers?

Pick a lane. Never give up. Pay attention to the business as well as the creative. Have the disposition and the motive to never give up. It’s so easy to run into roadblocks and obstacles along the way and give up and do something else.

Any plans to retire?

I think that’s giving up. I’m having too much fun.

I have amazing people around me who do the

“Wishing a happy 35th anniversary to Tommy and his brand! What an incredible accomplishment it is to be innovating and creating trends, decade after decade. I’ve had the pleasure of working with Tommy many times, including when he dressed me for the Met Gala, and I’m lucky to call him a dear friend. I can’t wait to see what the future holds. I love you, Tommy!”

—KRIS JENNER, TV personality, entertainment manager and producer, author “Tommy is a great showman. He conjures up stage sets and shows to transport even the most jaded individual. But his true magic lies is in how he embraces multicultural inspirations.

His energy, generosity, and great spirit are what make him a legend.”—DAME GLENDA BAILEY, global consultant, Harper’s Bazaar

heavy lifting. I give them their creative freedom.

What do you think the secret to your success is?

Paying attention to consumers’ desires and fulfilling their needs from product to pricing and marketing.

I’ve always thought that doing unique, fun, surprising marketing is part of it, but product is always king. You need great product.

How does Tommy Hilfiger want to be remembered?

As someone who cared about others, was generous, and charitable. We’re a generous organization.

Beyond all the fashion success, I’d like to be remembered for caring about others and making a difference in the world. It’s much more important.

Happy anniversary, Tommy!

Thank you for all the support! We don’t take it lightly. I also want to add that it has been amazing to be part of the PVH family. Everything we bring to them, they completely support. I think that’s rare to have a parent company be so supportive.

“Tommy Hilfiger is legendary, so to have worked together on multiple occasions has been a dream come true. For me, a highlight was wearing a custom burkini he designed for my most recent Sports Illustrated swimwear shoot. I admire his work in fashion but also in philanthropy, as he’s committed to helping the world’s most vulnerable children. We share that passion and the desire to make a difference.”—HALIMA ADEN, model “Long before anyone in the fashion world became fully engaged in the seminal issues of inclusion and diversity, Tommy Hilfiger was there, living this, believing in this, creating a brand that stood for this organically, naturally, from the get-go. He’s been making the world a better place for 35 years. Tommy represents the best of all things American—in fashion, in his life, in his beliefs, and in the joys and blessings he brings upon the rest of us with his generosity, his huge heart, his unique talent of bringing out the very best in everyone. He is one of a kind— a magnetic, marvelous kind. Happy 35th anniversary, and here’s to many, many more!”—BRANDUSA NIRO, editor in chief and CEO, The Daily Front Row

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NewDAY

CONSCIOUSLY

CECILIA

Time to pause this year gave Zadig & Voltaire’s artistic director CECILIA BÖNSTRÖM a rare opportunity to ref lect, read, and reenvision her purpose. The result? Projects near and dear to her heart—including her first-ever sustainable collection, inspired by the style maven’s own aesthetic, bien sûr! THE DAILY caught up with her ahead of its unveiling.

By FREYA DROHAN

How have you been?

I’ve been really good. In life, you better have been born optimistic, and I’m lucky that I was. It gives me the energy to move forward. The spring, for everybody, was tough because of the confinement. Somehow us Europeans took it with a certain patience. I’m Swedish, so I have a Nordic brain and function, so I accept what happens. But even French people accepted it in a calm way.

Did you spend confinement in Paris?

We went to our country house in Normandy. It was a scary moment. It was so new for all of us to see people dying and the financial insecurity; that was stressful.

But from a personal view, I was blessed. I was in the countryside, surrounded by trees, horses, and good, good food! I thought I was supposed to eat rice for two months and the markets would be closed, but we were lucky.

How did you keep yourself balanced?

I became a student again! I slept for as long as I could to catch up with all those years of working and stress. You’re always on the move and running after something, but when suddenly everything stopped, I said to myself, “Let’s take this as a gift to be a bit selfish and stop looking at the watch.” It was a beautiful moment to be more concentrated on my children, too, and have quality time with them.

Did you pick up any new hobbies?

I read a lot of books. Zadig has an award: the Z & V Literary Prize—one prize called Zadig for young writers, and Voltaire for the more established. I read eight books as part of the jury. I also picked up cooking again!

Any special recipes you can share with us?

One of the best salads I invented is with green beans, boiled for seven minutes and chilled. Add olive oil, salt, pepper, and balsamic vinegar. Then take fresh goat cheese, cut into small pieces, and some fig, cut into four. Grill some almonds briefly and mix those in. It’s the freshest, chicest salad you can ever find!

How did you stay connected with your team and customers all over the world?

People invited me on many Instagram Lives, and my message was that, yes, this is terrible. It’s a pandemic, but we’re lucky it has happened now as we’re still in contact with friends, work colleagues, and family. We’re lucky to live in a moment where we can communicate.

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How did Zadig parlay that message?

Thanks to being connected, I could be in meetings with my team and move forward on projects. Chris [Tate, CEO] had the idea for the Art Is Hope project. When he proposed the idea, I immediately said yes. Of course, you can live without art, but it’s a bonus to life. It can shock you, please you, move you forward, it stimulates you.

Has the project been successful?

The project had a big positive reaction. We’ve worked with the artist Jormi, dancer Benjamin Millepied, and other artists on different collaborations. I think it has been a great success. When things are done with heart and when you do projects that are true to you, I think then people feel it. Zadig is not just fashion, it’s a house and it’s a tribe.

Tell us about the new bags!

I’m proud of them! Since I entered the company, I was concentrating on honoring the past, the history, and the silhouette. In the past seven years, I focused more on me. I was obsessed with creating a monogram. It’s hard to create something timeless that’s also aesthetic.

The Z and the V are very graphic letters. My teams have been working so hard, and I was always turning it down. Suddenly, one girl brought something to me and I loved it. It’s a big step for me! It’s selling well. When a fashion house makes a monogram, it’s putting us on an international level.

What else are you working on at the moment?

As the women’s collection is working so well, they also gave me men’s! It’s busy. I’m finishing Fall, and I’m working on Spring ’21. And I’m creating a capsule edit of 15 pieces, which are made from sustainable fabrics.

It’s inspired by me and my wardrobe from Zadig & Voltaire. The fabrics that I’m using, it’s taken me years to find them. We’ll maybe show it over a private lunch in my apartment in September. It’s not a show; it’s a private moment.

Will you show at all this year?

I’m not going to do one in September. As we’re inspired

by French philosopher Voltaire, we like to be free, rebel, and make decisions at the last minute. We’re also building out our showroom in Paris so we can show digitally.

Was sustainability always on your mind?

During confinement, you realized how small and

microscopic you are. We realized we’re not eternal, and we’re on a planet that’s not ours. We’re guests here, so we should be cautious and conscious. Fashion has a moment to realize that we should find new ways to produce. This year, I thought, “Cecilia, you have to hurry up!” At one point I wanted to change, but I never really had the time to make those decisions.

How are you planning on changing?

I’ve hired an external team to help guide me. We want 50 percent of the main collection to be sustainable fabrics. We’re also thinking about air, water use, boats instead of planes.… It’s going to take at least five years.

It sounds promising!

Fashion is part of culture, with creative people working behind it. It’s a beautiful way of expressing creativity; you can’t forget that. It’s part of a dream.

Many in this generation, we didn’t realize that we were using up the world’s energy. We were all naive, but now it’s so clear. Obviously, I don’t want to make fake promises. It’s a big mountain to climb!

PASSION PROJECT As a response to the global pandemic, Zadig & Voltaire created the Art Is Hope project to support and highlight emerging artists through collaborations and capsule collections.

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Model BEHAVIOR

DIVINE DILONE

When Hervé Léger creative director CHRISTIAN JUUL NIELSEN needs to get a job done, he calls upon his model muse Dilone. Shooting a lookbook this year was no mean feat, but together they made magic.

Nielsen tells THE DAILY how and why she became his go-to star.

By FREYA DROHAN

Tell us how you first met Dilone.

I was working with a brand in 2017 as their head of design and shooting my first campaign with them. She was the first model I picked for the lookbook, and she just had this fantastic energy. Then she started wearing a lot of clothes that I designed.

What is it about her that makes her a great muse?

She’s such a chameleon; she can do so many kinds of looks. My idea for this shoot was inspired by Peter Lindbergh and Herb Ritts, in terms of the hair and makeup. She immediately turned into my vision. You can see that she goes from super posh and chic, then she was suddenly in streetstyle mode, dancing at construction sites and running across the sidewalks.

And she’s a New Yorker!

Yes, she’s so bubbly, full of energy, and vibrant. She’s been active in the Black Lives Matter movement, too.

We gave her some dresses for a charity [Urban Dove] she’s involved in. She’s a good person and has a super personality. I was happy to see the news recently that she’s going to be in the new TV show about Halston.

Tell us about this shoot.

We shot in May. It was definitely quiet on the streets. We had to get photos, and I wanted to pick someone I was comfortable with because it was still during COVID, so I chose her. We came in our masks and got together with the minimum number of people that we could shoot with. We followed social-distancing protocols. Alessio Boni shot the images on Fifth Avenue, in front of the Empire State Building where our offices are.

What was the vibe like shooting last spring?

I mean, there’s a little bit of worry before you start. But once you’re there and everyone is respectful, you get back to the energy of creating something beautiful.

Dilone was easy to work with. It’s easy with an inspiring model. Just look at her move! It was a great moment, and we forgot about COVID briefly. There were some people around who were curious; it always adds fun and energy when you’re shooting in an open area.

Who else inspires you?

I love women, and there are a few women I love following. That’s how I create collections. I need to look to women for inspiration!

Are you still working from home?

Yes. It’s been interesting the way we’ve done it. The factories are

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CHAMELEON Nielsen says that Dilone can easily transform between shots—from posh and chic one moment to a more edgy vibe in the next take.

ALL IMAGES COURTESY

sending the dresses to my home. I pre-fit everything on a mannequin, and then send a video to my team. Then I pack everything up and walk over to my fit model’s house. She meets me downstairs and receives the suitcase. Then the team and I go on Zoom while she tries everything on by herself. Then she goes to FedEx and sends everything back! It became normal really fast.

Sounds crazy! What kept you sane during that time?

I was cooking a lot. It was all about learning a new way of communicating. Everyone was doing Instagram Lives, speaking into their cameras, photographing themselves at home. Doing things that they usually wouldn’t because they don’t want to get judged. Not that I’d worry!

We heard you got super into TikTok! I started doing it myself. They’re so ridiculous! What I think is interesting about TikTok is that there are people on there teaching you all these tech things. It’s surprisingly easy to do all this editing and adding music.

Did you start doing dances?

No dancing. I find it so basic!

Would you start a Hervé Léger TikTok? You could have Dilone run it!

I would definitely do it given the opportunity. I’d love for her to do it. She would be ideal!

What else have you noticed on social media this year?

A new way of dressing and a new way of living. We all started to look at clothes in a different way and started dressing differently. We don’t know what’s going to happen, but people still want to look good. I think we’re moving into a new era of comfortable chic.

How will that inspire the new collection?

I think we’re enjoying being comfortable, but we still want to look nice. Before, there was a very American vibe of sweatpants and sweatshirts, but we learned that you can still wear something decent even though you’re home alone. You don’t want to change your wardrobe completely, but there’s a part of the day where you want to be comfortable, then another where you want to pop out easily and go for dinner in your neighborhood.

You’ve been at Hervé Léger for two years now. Did you do anything to celebrate your work anniversary?

No, but I should! You’re so right; I do need to celebrate.

It’s been a beautiful journey, working with fantastic people. I’ve enjoyed it. It’s a beautiful house to work for with beautiful heritage, amazing archives from the ’80s and ’90s. So yeah, I definitely want to celebrate it and the future of it!

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NewLOOKS

SPRING AHEAD

Sure, it’s the fall, but most of us already have daydreams of life in 2021. NICOLE MILLER tells us how she’s set to reveal her Spring collection this week with positive vibes for the future in mind. The designer gives THE DAILY a preview of what to expect and how she put it together in unprecedented times.

What inspired your Spring collection?

With a post-pandemic mind-set, I was looking for a spirit of optimism. I felt the times were paralleling the ’70s with the country’s unrest, so I started with that vibe. Also, I watched the Laurel Canyon docuseries, so we had a West Coast mind-set as well.

How will you be showing it to editors and buyers?

We’re all set up for Zoom meetings in the showroom, so it will be similar to what we did for Resort ’21. We’re also releasing a lookbook on the CFDA’s platform, Runway 360.

Have you missed the ritual of putting together a physical show?

It’s really not been all that different. We’re still doing looks and working on a set, like we would for a show. We won’t be having the extensive casting days and long fittings, which I’m happy to skip.

Sadly, no post-show dinner!

What were the biggest challenges of putting the collection together during quarantine?

Not being with my team! I love the creative energy we have when we’re all together. It just isn’t the same over video calls.

What has been your greatest professional lesson in recent months?

Well, we are very DIY here and only became more so. Our tie-dyes, some done at home, have become best sellers. Also, we started the mask business at home, and this has become a big business, so a lot of things that were born out of necessity became great things for the business.

What are you looking forward to this fall?

I’m excited for our Fall collection to come out and for the new casual collection we just launched. I’m nervous about the fall and things shutting down again, so I’m keeping my fingers crossed that we

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By EDDIE ROCHE

KEEPING IT CASUAL Miller’s latest collection is full of nods to the West Coast’s optimistic mind-set during the turbulent social unrest of the 1970s.

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stay on an upswing. If everyone keeps wearing their masks I think we’re heading in the right direction!

Was the casual collection inspired by people working from home?

We were starting it anyway, so it was good timing on our part. It’s an activewear collection. I feel like style-wise everybody has gotten more casual anyway.

Everyone is into yoga and wellness and all these things, and then coincidentally timed with people not being able to go to parties. It was good that we had gotten this together well in advance and got it going. It’s also opened up a lot of new stores for us, too! This isn’t going to go away because people are into fitness. We were known for party dresses more than anything, though I’ve done a lot of other things in my career. Everything is timing. But it could have been started a lot sooner, to be honest!

What’s in the collection?

It’s leggings. It’s a lot of our prints. It incorporates the evil eye, which has become a signature thing for me and has become so successful. There are sweatshirts; there are some elements that we did from our Fall Rock ’n’ Royalty collection. We used inspirations from the collection for all these things.

Tell us about the Rock ’n’ Royalty line.

I was inspired because the royals kept being in the press for a lot of reasons. I was thinking of rebellious royals. Between Meghan and Harry and Prince Andrew, it reminded me of royals behaving badly and England and rock ’n’ roll. There are a

lot of regal-looking prints. We styled it more rock ’n’ roll with leather and T-shirts. There’s a Maid Marian dress, and we put a leather jacket over it.

Obviously the garment district is a lot quieter these days.

Where have you and the team been ordering lunch?

Unfortunately, a lot of places didn’t reopen. We were lucky to have Café Hestia and Frame open almost from the beginning. But now we have some great options—Empanada Mama just reopened; Pret a Manger has been great; for Chinese food, there is Bao Bao Café; Greek Xpress for Greek; and I can’t leave out Popeye’s!

This was a very different summer. What has been your best memory of the season?

I’ve really enjoyed spending time at home with my family this summer. I’ve had some great days wakeboarding and cooking exciting new recipes.

And, of course, I’ve had some lovely outdoor lunches at Le Bilboquet in the Hamptons and some nice outdoor dinners at Gitano in the city. Tribeca is great now with all the restaurants open on the street.

You’ve been designing for a long time. How do you keep things fresh?

By listening to my staff…who are all young and savvy!

What do you love about New York City right now?

I love New York City, and I’m always inspired by how people come together in tough times. The city will overcome this and return to its great vibe and energy. As long as we’re all doing our part to stop the spread, we can get NYC back to its glory days.

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“I FEEL LIKE STYLEWISE EVERYBODY HAS GOTTEN MORE CASUAL ANYWAY.…

IT WAS GOOD THAT WE HAD GOTTEN THIS TOGETHER WELL IN ADVANCE.”

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UptownGIRL

MODEL PRO Model Jasmine Tookes took creative control while shooting the new collection at her home. The Ramy Brook team sent her clothes and an idea, and she worked with a photographer to achieve their vision.

RESILIENT RAMY

RAMY BROOK SHARP started her eponymous fashion line from the bedroom of her Upper East Side apartment, so it’s no wonder she still pinches herself when walking into her f lagship store on Madison Avenue. THE DAILY caught up with the designer to hear about how she’s enhanced the shopping experience—safely and stylishly—in recent months.

By FREYA DROHAN

How’ve you been since we last saw you?

Busy! But I’ve been good. I definitely can’t complain.

We’re working hard; we’re in market right now, getting our showroom in order, and doing appointments over Zoom. Things are still going forward, and we have found new ways to connect.

Did you stay in New York City during lockdown?

I was primarily out in the Hamptons and worked from there. It was great to be able to connect with the team via Zoom and conference calls. At our store on Madison, we had to be creative and safely adapt to the lockdown. We set up a phone number where you could text members of our store team and they could answer any questions, as well as having anything delivered to you. During that time, we still rotated looks in our window. We wanted people going for a walk to still see newness and excitement.

We’re sure your customers appreciated that!

Yes! Customers were buying more online. Our plan

is to keep the text message service line, but in a more personal way. The text message will go to a manager, or someone from the sales team, similar to a concierge service, where they can follow up and build a relationship. I feel the advantage of having a brick-andmortar store is the personal connection you build.

Did quarantine change your perspective on anything?

I love the culture of our company. When you walk into our corporate office, it radiates happiness; the lights are bright, there’s music, and there’s people around.

There’s a great attitude. That obviously couldn’t happen in lockdown, but I found our employees didn’t lose their drive. It was interesting that we could work remotely and maintain that same level of drive.

Did lockdown influence your designs or design process in any way?

There was a lot of uncertainty about what people would wear going forward. The world has changed in terms of attending shows, parties, dining, and weddings. It

made me think of the kind of clothing that women will wear; clothing that’s not event-driven. We cover lots of bases, and we do have tops, dresses, jeans—all for easy dressing. But what I did learn is that loungewear is going to be more important for women, as it’s easy and accessible to go out. We always wanted to do something along those lines, but we’re going to speed that process up and offer another level of loungewear for Spring.

You’ve been front and center on Instagram. Who takes your photos?

We’ve always worked with a great mix of photographers. But with the pandemic, we had to get creative this summer. When we needed to do a photo shoot, my daughter—who is 16 and beautiful—did it with me. My son is a filmmaker, he’s off to college now, but he filmed a behind-the-scenes video. Our photographer, Sebastian Faena, came and took the photos with his iPhone from a distance. As a mom, nothing is more exciting than working with your kids.

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FLAGSHIP STORE The designer scouted the Upper East Side for two years while waiting patiently for the perfect location to become available. Her store at 980 Madison is now celebrating its first anniversary.

Any posing tips for us?

I’m a harsh critic of myself, but the one thing I do like to do is show a positive attitude. Most of my photos are smiling or laughing, anything that shows happiness!

How have you been managing other editorial shoots?

We’re still working with amazing models, but remotely.

We just finished a shoot with Jasmine Tookes. She did it in her home with a photographer she chose. We sent a deck of how we envisioned the looks, and she did a great job and sent us beautiful photos. Last week, we did another photo shoot with Lorena Rae, who is staying in Monaco, following the same process. For our editorial shoots, we’re usually on location, but we were able to figure out a way where these photo shoots can happen, thanks to these gorgeous, fabulous, and smart women. We sent them clothes and an idea, and they went with it.

You originally started Ramy Brook in your apartment on the UES. What do you remember about this time?

I feel like it was yesterday! It started from my bedroom.

As I started to learn more about the business and met amazing helpful people, I was able to come up with a collection of six tops and one dress. I did my first trunk show at my sister’s house in New Jersey and quickly learned how to produce the clothing. As we were growing, I needed more space, so I took another apartment in the building. My kids were still little, so it was nice to walk only a few doors away.

That’s a good commute to the office!

Exactly. After three years, it started to take off and that’s

when we found a space in Midtown. We’ve since had to knock down the walls of three other offices to expand.

And now you have a stunning store on Madison Avenue.

What do we need to know?

I love the store. We’re actually celebrating our one-year anniversary this month! I’ve been an Upper East Sider since I moved to New York. I love walking up Madison Avenue and felt if I had a store on the UES, it would be ideal to be around that area. For two years, we walked around learning about different retail spaces. It worked out for us that 980 Madison became available. I can’t think of a better place; we really lucked out!

What’s the shopping experience like right now?

We leave the double doors wide open, so people know we’re here to welcome them. The minute you walk in, there’s a table with hand sanitizer and masks. We’ve got three chairs in the middle of the store and a little table where people can relax. We have a big couch by the dressing rooms, so when you’re shopping with friends or significant others, they have a place to hang out. It’s a feeling of safety first and then you see the great product, the beautiful colors, and the smiles of our employees. It’s a very happy, upbeat, and positive atmosphere.

How do you feel when you walk in the doors of the store?

It’s still feels new, so I get that excited feeling. I pinch myself that I have a store on Madison Avenue!

UES haunts like The Mark and The Carlyle are nearby.

What’s your go-to cocktail?

I like white wine, and in the summer, I like rosé. I

“IT’S A FEELING OF SAFETY FIRST AND THEN YOU SEE THE GREAT PRODUCT, THE BEAUTIFUL COLORS, AND THE SMILES OF OUR EMPLOYEES. IT’S A VERY HAPPY, UPBEAT, AND POSITIVE ATMOSPHERE.” usually meet a couple friends at The Surrey rooftop or The Mark. It’s been fun to sit outside!

And we hear you’ve even got rosé and tequila in the store?

Yes! I like when people come in and they can feel at home, so that’s where the wine came in! We have to-go wine glasses, too. It’s a cute tumbler that people can take with them. Of course, not everyone is in the mood for wine, so we also serve water, coffee, and soda—and tequila!

What’s next for the brand?

The loungewear, which is new for us. We’re going to build out that collection. Additionally, we’re continuing to add new silhouettes we introduced, like denim, swim, and cover-ups. We launched sunglasses and a perfume this year as well, and it would be fun to add to that with some more accessories. Possibly candles! We’re going to continue to grow the business throughout.

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BirthdayGIRL

SHE’S STILL HERE!

REBECCA MINKOFF is celebrating two milestones in this unforgettable year. She’s turning 40 and celebrating the 15th anniversary of her namesake brand. We recently got on the phone with the designer to reminisce about the early days of her brand, see how she’s faring in a COVID world, and find out what she’s got cooking for NYFW.

By EDDIE ROCHE

Happy anniversary! What are your plans?

I can’t have a 40th-birthday party, and I can’t have a party for my 15th anniversary. So in lieu of a party… our plans are to celebrate Fashion Week, which has been a huge topic of conversation. Are you in? Are you out? My general sentiment is we have to get back to business. There’s a way to do it safely. New York needs fashion from an economic perspective.

The fashion industry needs it from a community perspective. I’m working with Lowe’s, who is helping bring the shows to life. Digitally, there will be a video that will be fun and in the moment.

Are you doing a presentation?

We’re doing a presentation-style format on the rooftop of Spring Studios on September 15th, from 5 to 7 p.m. Lowe’s wanted to participate in Fashion Week because fashion, now more than ever, has been

taken into the home. Jason Wu, Christian Siriano, and I will be using a lot of Lowe’s home products within our activations. We’re curating items that will be shopable. As people re-create their homes to be their offices, that’s how the partnership has been tied together. The theme of my collection and how it will be shown will very much be what I stand for as a brand. The collection is all about rock ’n’ roll.

Let’s go back in history! How did the brand get started? We remember there’s a Jay Leno connection.

I had been at an artist convention in the Bahamas, and I loved all the touristy shops with these cut-up T-shirts. I came back and made one for myself with an “I Love New York” logo. My sister-in-law fell in love with it, and she wore it out to dinner with Jenna Elfman, who was on Dharma & Greg at the time.

Jenna wanted one. She was on The Tonight Show

with Jay Leno in 2001 when he asked her about it.

She said, “My good friend Rebecca Minkoff made it.”

The shirt ended up everywhere, over and over again.

For nine months, I would go down to Canal Street on my bike, negotiate with the guy to buy T-shirts, and brought them to one of the few e-commerce sites at the time. I donated what I could to the Red Cross, and I kept the rest to buy ramen and not pay rent!

Then, handbags put you on the map.

Jenna asked me if I did bags and I lied to her and said, “Of course I do bags!” I went back to the city and found a factory that was making the most well-known contemporary brands. They made a sample and I walked around with it and enough people stopped me that I thought, “There might be something to this.” A friend of mine was the buyer for a boutique in L.A. that was known for curating cool brands. She wanted to buy 12 as a test, and she said she’d have her friend write about it for DailyCandy. The article hit, and it was f**king crazy! I got e-mails from boutiques and stores and magazines. That was the beginning!

You were an early adapter to the digital world. How did you know this was going to be the future?

I don’t think we knew at all. We knew we weren’t the anointed ones. Back then you rose to fame that way or through Barneys making you cool. The only way we existed was because of our consumers.

When I realized there’s a forum and a bunch of women talking and I can talk back to them, why wouldn’t we do that? I didn’t have big budgets to do magazine advertising. Paid social wasn’t a thing, but we could talk directly to our consumers.

Who were the first influencers that you worked with?

The first one was Fashion Toast founder Rumi Neely.

We also worked with Margaret Zhang, Leandra Medine of Man Repeller, and Chiara Ferragni. Back then, these people were not given those invitations.

People thought we were working with the D-list.

How have you been coping in the past few months?

The first month was the worst as an entrepreneur.

Overnight, 70 percent of our business evaporated.

We had to do some furloughs and layoffs to people who were like family to me in order to survive. I was pretty down in the dumps. We didn’t know if we could survive this. It took essentially a restructuring of our company. Our team is actually more united and connected now, and we’re culturally better. There’s a lot more care. Phone calls start with “How’s everyone doing today?”

We’re actually doing business. The fact that our customer is responding to the content and what we’re standing for as a brand means a lot. I feel, I don’t want to say the word lucky because we’ve worked our asses off, but I feel fortunate that we’re around and alive and we see a path to recovery.

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FOREVER YOUNG Minkoff has always tapped into cutting-edge trends in the industry— and shows no signs of stopping now.

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Jewels Southampton / August - December

Think Jewels.

Think Phillips.

Phillips Jewelry Department is offering complimentary valuations every Friday at our Southampton location.

We look forward to seeing you there.

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Enquiries

Phillips Southampton

jewelrynewyork@phillips.com +1 212 940 1378

August - December 2020 Tuesday - Sunday, 11am - 6pm

phillips.com

1 Hampton Road, Southampton, NY

8/31/20 11:41 AM

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P R O M OT I O N

SUPIMA DESIGN COMPETITION

NYFW 2020

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THE NEXT GENERATION OF

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P R O M OT I O N

THIS YEAR’S WINNER

AMANDA FORASTIERI DREXEL UNIVERSITY Forastieri hopes that her Supima collection will serve as a messenger of a better future after the current crisis. Titled “Utopia,” her collection aims to portray the hopeful story of a near future post-COVID in which humans unite to build a new system, one that stems with love and respect for the planet and, most important, one another.

or the 13th year of the Supima Design Competition, Supima has partnered with America’s leading design schools: Drexel University, Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Fashion Institute of Technology, Kent State University, Parsons School of Design, and Rhode Island School of Design. Each school nominated one of its top graduating seniors as a finalist for the Supima Design Competition.

Earlier this year, each of today’s six designers was assigned a faculty mentor, provided fabric from Supima’s most prestigious brand partners, and asked

to create capsule collections of women’s eveningwear that highlighted the unique characteristics of Supima cotton. The Supima Design Competition required each designer to rethink familiar fabric conventions—the woven fabrications customarily used as high-end shirting; the fine jersey that goes into luxury tops and lingerie; and the sturdy denims, velveteens, and twills that make up premium jeans and sportswear. With campuses closed and finalists spread out across the country self-quarantining, this year’s SDC presented a unique set of challenges.

Determined to move forward with this year’s

presentation, the team at Supima, including mentor Bibhu Mohapatra, held countless virtual meetings and fittings, to make the 2020 Supima Design Competition a reality. During these unprecedented times, Supima was more committed than ever to showcasing these newly minted designers to the fashion community and consumers across the globe in a new, virtual format that was broadcast live on September 10th.

The designs were judged completely digitally on originality, execution, and ability to showcase Supima, America’s luxury cotton.

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F

SUPIMA DESIGN COMPETITION

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LAW ROACH HOST

BUXTON MIDYETTE

VP OF MARKETING, SUPIMA

BIBHU MOHAPATRA MENTOR

THE JUDGES

A WIDE RANGE OF 21 FASHION INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS, FROM JOURNALISTS AND RETAILERS TO DESIGNERS AND STYLISTS, WERE SPECIALLY SELECTED TO REVIEW EACH COLLECTION FROM THEIR OWN UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE.

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P R O M OT I O N

THE DESIGNERS

SAKURA MIZUTANI FASHION INSTITUTE OF DESIGN & MERCHANDISING

TERRENCE ZHOU PARSONS SCHOOL OF DESIGN

AMANDA FORASTIERI

DREXEL UNIVERSITY

JENNIE NGUYEN KENT STATE UNIVERSITY

JENNY FENG

KYRA BUENVIAJE

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FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

RHODE ISLAND SCHOOL OF DESIGN

THE SPONSORS

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Find out more: visit supima.com/design-competition

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NYFW A SEASON UNLIKE Any Other WHAT ARE MONSE’S LAURA KIM & FERNANDO GARCIA COOKING UP?

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DesignDUO

DOUBLE LIFE LAURA KIM and FERNANDO GARCIA have the rare distinction of running two successful New York–based fashion brands, Oscar de la Renta and Monse. But it took a global pandemic for them to finally step off their moving train to take a pause and learn some new tricks. THE DAILY recently caught up with these real-life besties on the set of shooting their Oscar de la Renta lookbook to see how they’ve navigated the past few months and what they’re going to miss about doing runway shows this season.

SNEAK PEEK Model Tami Williams wears a look from Monse’s upcoming collection (right and on the cover); the designers recently shot a Resort lookbook for Oscar de la Renta (below and far right).

By EDDIE ROCHE

How did things go for you both when everything first went down in March?

FERNANDO GARCIA: We had to figure out what to do with the size of our teams and then the size of our collections. Both of our companies contacted the people we sell the most to, and we worked around that and when it would make sense to have a new collection ready for them. It made us realize that everyone should pay attention to their own world, their own business. It’s not so much about following a calendar this particular year. It’s about paying attention to who your customer is.

LAURA KIM: For Monse, China closed before us and then they opened before everyone else. Monse has a really big market in China, so we didn’t delay anything. We all worked from home and continued on our normal schedule. It was interesting to see how two different companies took it very differently.

For Oscar, we stopped everything for a couple of

months and then went back. It’s such a big company that they can jump right back in and catch up. It was interesting to see how a small company and a big company could handle it.

What were the differences?

KIM: Our Monse office is small and really long, so we were already socially distanced. There are less people making decisions, so it’s much faster. I do think the way that Oscar did it was really good, too. We stopped everything and figured out what to do. With Monse, I was worried that we were too optimistic. In the end, both worked out.

GARCIA: It’s all very individual. Everyone should pay attention to who you’re selling to and how long you can last with the amount of people you’ve hired.

What was it like for you two, who are around each other all the time? How long did you go without seeing each other?

KIM: About two weeks.

GARCIA: We took care of our health and socially

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distanced. But there came a point when we needed groceries, so a grocery run became our weekly meeting.

KIM: He had to carry them for me! He doesn’t know how to cook, so I would deliver him food every day. I cooked something daily, so one of the meals he’d get something.

GARCIA: During the process, Laura discovered a knack for being a chef. It was something she was always fond of but she explored the art behind it during quarantine, which gave me the cooking bug.

I started to cook a lot more, too.

KIM: We would FaceTime and I’d teach him how to cook. But he eats the same thing every day!

What do you eat?

GARCIA: I love chicken, onions, peas, and eggs. I love anything with peas in it. I really do!

How else did you get through things?

KIM: We worked every day.

GARCIA: Our design director, Chad, sent a form to my apartment and some tools to drape with. We began working remotely with our pattern maker, which was something we had never explored before and made the process a little slower. But it was

something we had to adapt to. Eventually, we were able to meet once in a while socially distancing and vibe off of each other’s energy and understand what ideas are the more relevant ones for this postpandemic world we’re now a part of. The ideas that we had in the beginning for the design process for Resort, which was originally supposed to be due at the end of May/beginning of June, kept changing KIM: We designed Oscar, like, three times.

GARCIA: We started to notice the temperature of the room was changing so fast every single day. Whatever idea we had for May or June was completely irrelevant by the time April rolled around.

What would be irrelevant?

GARCIA: Now, more than ever, there needs to be a sense of practicality instilled into the collection you’re putting out. You’re catering to a customer who is entertaining at home as opposed to going out to galas, which is a part of our business.

KIM: We did some more feminine and flirty looks for Oscar.

Did you do Zoom calls with your office? How did that work out?

GARCIA: We hated the Zoom calls. I think everyone does!

KIM: I don’t mind them. I don’t like social events.

GARCIA: I’m someone who loves feeding off the energy of the room. That was a challenge for me.

Eventually, we got permission to meet up and social distancing was applied.

Did you reach out to your designer friends to see how they were working?

GARCIA: We talked to Joseph [Altuzarra] and Brandon [Maxwell].

KIM: I hang out with Prabal [Gurung] and Phillip [Lim] almost every day. Everyone handled it very differently. We needed a break! I really needed a break.

GARCIA: Juggling the two brands for four or five years has been a lot. It was the right time to sit back and remember who the core customer is for each one.

If you’re changing your mind all the time, what were your inspirations for these collections? Let’s start with Oscar.

GARCIA: For Oscar, I felt that it was beautiful to go back to the most pure form of femininity—the flower. We started manipulating fabric, and Laura developed these beautiful floral prints that are very pure and bold and Oscar! Quintessential is what everyone should be striving for. I want the most Oscar-looking dress and the most Monse-looking jacket. Standing out with your own heritage is vital when everyone’s spending is a lot more focused after the pandemic. For Monse, we went back to our core classics and reinvented them, like the pinstripe shirt and the deconstructed suit. The way we used embellishment this time was a little more utilitarian.

KIM: More than anything we have to feel out what’s going on in the world—the temperature and what women need. Then, we look for elements that inspire us, especially with what’s going on now.

Tell us about your shoe collab with Both.

GARCIA: Our collaboration for the fall Punk collection was a perfect fit, so we asked them to work on new versions because they were such a big hit! Evolving the Punk collab into this one made for a more practical version of the first round. We love working with them!

How do you think Oscar himself would have dealt with the world we’re living in today?

KIM: Social distancing would not work for Oscar!

He loved socializing.

GARCIA: I certainly understand how he would have felt. He liked to feel out people’s energy and the team’s energy and have a laugh. That’s when he would be the most creative. He would have had a hard time.

What’s it like to not have to do two shows this season?

GARCIA: We were always juggling between doing two shows and two shoots for the past few years.

Now it’s just two shoots.

KIM: I complain so much about doing shows because they’re so much work and it’s a lot of people!

But I went to Beacon, New York, this weekend for the Carl Craig installation at Dia. It feels like a fashion show, and it made me miss it. I would never say that under normal circumstances.

GARCIA: There’s definitely something irreplaceable about a fashion show. The energy in the room during a Fashion Week is irreplaceable. When you’re dealing with the deadline of a fashion show versus a photo shoot, it pushes people to focus their energy on something a little more unique, because you want to create a memorable experience. Not just for yourself, but also for a group of people that will always remember that and talk about it in the future, like it was a great birthday party or a lovely night out with friends. It’s something that’s engraved in your memory forever.

KIM: They inspire you. People work in this industry because of the excitement of the show.

GARCIA: I’m looking forward to the days when the shows do come back. It’s going to be so exciting and revitalize New York City. For now, it’s okay to go about our lives in a more remote way. It will come back to normal.

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FashionFLUX MASK OFF Who could have guessed when we saw bedazzled masks come down the NYFW runway last season what was to come?

STATE OF THE UNION NYFW is certainly looking different this season, but we’re rolling with it. We asked three top fashion executives what this unprecedented season will look like and how they tackled their biggest challenges in recent months.

By EDDIE ROCHE

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GARY WASSNER

LESLIE RUSSO

NYFW is going to be very different this year. How do you feel about the way things are playing out?

These are extraordinary times for every business. It makes no difference whether you’re in the restaurant business, entertainment, publishing, fashion, transportation, or just about any segment of the economy. We’re all affected profoundly by the disruption to the status quo. And while we, as businesspeople are dealing with the present state of affairs, we have to continue to anticipate the future and look forward creatively as well. Everything we’re experiencing is unprecedented, and we have no set game plans to refer to. Bottom line is we’re doing the best that we can.

Do I like digital shows?

No, not at all. To me, they represent an incomplete experience. Do I prefer being present at Fashion Week where ideas are expressed and exchanged in real time?

Absolutely. But we don’t have that choice today. But what has confirmed my faith in our industry is the determination and versatility the independent brands have shown during this awful crisis. We’re all adapting to the realties of today. My personal preferences are irrelevant in the face of necessity.

What has been the best piece of advice you’ve given the brands that you’re behind and already working with?

Preserve cash, reduce overhead, learn what’s necessary and what’s not, and be efficient. Position your company so that you reduce vulnerabilities in all the categories possible. In a global state of affairs where we all feel exposed, regain as much control as you can. While the house is on fire, the main task at hand is preservation. But there will be a future, and preparation for that cannot be neglected. Be ready to seize opportunities as they arise.

How do you think the fashion world will bounce back from the pandemic?

I believe strongly that we’ve all learned an extraordinary amount during these past nine months or so. Insight and intuition into the desires of the postpandemic consumer will be guided by the reality of our actual current needs. People have changed. Habits have changed. Perceptions of necessity have changed. We have all had time to assess what we miss the most from the past and what we want most from the future.

What are you feeling optimistic about in fashion?

I’m always optimistic. It’s my nature. Maybe it’s my determination that leads me to accept my confirmation bias as reality. I don’t know, but I’m hopeful. We’re all forced to recognize how selfindulgent we’ve been in the fashion world and in our lives in general. What we previously took for granted—a leaner, healthier, more cooperative, and more self-aware industry—will emerge from this.

Why was it important for NYFW to carry on in some capacity?

COVID-19 has imposed tremendous challenges for the industry, but we view NYFW: The Shows as a crucial event to maintain—albeit in an evolved format—both to support the myriad professionals who work in fashion, and to support designer’s businesses. NYFW is more than “a week.” It really signals the beginning of a season of the global consumer consumption of fashion.

We felt it was important that we show up to give American-based fashion brands—and the innumerable other professionals who work in or adjacent to the fashion industry— solutions in order to be able to get back to business in the way they best see fit.

What will NYFW look like this season?

We’re working to marry physical and digital elements through our official NYFW: The Shows footprint, offering flexible spaces, including a showroom and content studio, live outdoor space, and more virtual programming on our fashion OTT, nyfw.com—all packaged with the top-of-the-line production value you’d expect from an Endeavor production. We will continue with our cultural conversations via our NYFW: BTS franchise.

Who are this year’s partners of Fashion Week?

You always remember who supports you in tough times. We were so pleased to see our lead partners return this season in their support of the American fashion industry and the fashion customer: BMW of North America, Visa, TRESemmé, Perrier, Alibaba Group’s Tmall, Mionetto, and our official media partner, E! These partners have been invaluable in their support of designers in their choice to participate in reimagined, hybrid formats. Lowe’s is a new special project partner who stepped up with inventive resources and ways to reach new audiences at home.

What are some of the events lined up this year?

Some examples of ways we are supporting designers this season include an in-season collection experience with Monse; socially distant runway shows with Jason Wu, Christian Siriano, and Rebecca Minkoff; a photo shoot in our onsite content hub with Christian Cowan; and a panel conversation with LENS talent and Proenza Schouler; and a screening of the new documentary House of Cardin. This will all be broadcast virtually on our nyfw.com site and mobile app.

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CEO, Hilldun Corporation

Head of IMG’s Fashion Events

IVAN BART

President, IMG Models & Fashion

What are you most looking forward to this NYFW? I’m excited to see the creativity and hard work of so many designers come to life this season, especially in the face of adversity. Collections I’m looking forward to in New York include Jason Wu, Christian Siriano, Monse, Studio 189, LaQuan Smith, Kenneth Nicholson, and Maxhosa by Laduma. I’m also excited to see the international collections that will follow after New York, and our talent on the runways across Europe.

What’s new at IMG since we last spoke?

NYFW continues to be the center of many cultural conversations. In the lead up to one of the most important elections in our history, voter registration is crucial and I’m proud that IMG will play a part in Fashion Our Future 2020, engaging underrepresented communities to register to vote through NYFW: The Shows, nyfw.com, and IMG Models talent utilizing their platforms to reach young and first-time voters. There’s never been a more important time than now to get younger generations involved in the political process.

Obviously, safety is at the forefront of all our minds.

What is IMG doing to make sure models coming to NYFW will feel safe?

The health and safety of our models always has, and continues to be, our No. 1 priority. I’ve witnessed firsthand how hard our fashion events team has worked to create a comprehensive plan that adheres to the strictest health and safety recommendations, and I have full confidence that NYFW: The Shows will protect the well-being of all participants. During Fashion Week, our focus will be ensuring that all our talent feel comfortable, informed, and prepared to follow all public health guidelines put in place by New York State and by the New York Fashion Week production team.

What models are you excited about this season?

Maty Fall, Alton Mason, Malika Louback, Grace Clover, Shayna McNeill, Precious Lee, Damian Hurley, Taras Romanov, James Turlington, and Parris Goebel.

There are so many I’m excited about this season!

How have you stayed optimistic in the past few months?

Going for long walks while I’m on conference calls, bike rides, cooking at home with my husband; using technology to connect with friends, colleagues, and loved ones has kept me sane. I miss the in-person collaboration and the events, but the IMG team has managed to sustain the celebratory nature of our business while working remotely. We’re keeping the passion for fashion alive through our twice-daily video calls, sharing inspiration, continuing to check in on one another and our clients, and making sure we’re taking the time to celebrate special moments, like birthdays, work anniversaries, and other personal achievements.

BACK AGAIN Spring Studios and IMG are working with designers for small events. Model Maty Fall (left) is a rising newcomer on the IMG Models roster.

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FashionFLUX

SO TIFFANY

TIFFANY REID has come a long way from sneaking off to her internship at Allure while she was in college. With stints at W, InStyle, and Cosmopolitan under her belt, this Bronx native began her most ambitious role yet, as Bustle Digital Group’s VP, Fashion, last month.

Here’s what to expect from this multitasking powerhouse.

By FREYA DROHAN

How did you get your start in the industry?

I did my undergrad at Temple University in Philadelphia.

I was an advertising and psychology double major. I was doing bits and bobs, freelancing, and figuring it out.

It helped that New York was my home base to get me started in fashion. I interned one summer for a young female ad exec. I was her PR, looking up media contacts, and that’s when I discovered what an editor was. I didn’t even know it was a career path I could follow! No one in my family works in fashion; I was the first person to think of this as a real career.

Why did being an editor appeal to you?

I wanted to decide that what I’m doing is cool. I started researching how to be a fashion editor, and I ended up landing an internship at Allure when I was in my undergrad. I was still living in Philly, but I would take the bus three days a week to New York. I scheduled classes around it, and I worked on the weekend at Nordstrom because I had to pay rent and pay for my traveling off my commission. I didn’t tell my parents!

They would have lost it! But Allure was the place to be.

How long were you at Allure?

I interned there for a year. That’s how I got my start, then my editor introduced me to W, which led to an

internship and then a freelance job as an assistant.

They couldn’t hire me full-time due to budgets, so I left and worked at a market-research company writing copy for Kraft and Colgate. So not fashion!

How did Bustle come calling?

Emma [Rosenblum, editor in chief of Bustle Digital Group] had reached out to me when I first left. It was a long conversation. I didn’t imagine this to be the next step, but it made absolute sense. I’d worked at Time, Condé Nast, and Hearst, and I’d dabbled in digital, but never had a fully digital role. It had always been in print. Coming to Bustle felt like the next step and like what I needed to do.

You started your initial role, as fashion director, at a pretty crazy time, too!

I jumped right in. We had shoots the first two weeks in L.A., like the Nicole Richie cover and the cast of Cheer.

Then February came, so I was in Europe for three weeks. And then COVID hit. But it’s been a blessing in disguise. I’ve been able to sit, get readjusted, and really learn the job.

Tell us about your new promotion to VP, Fashion and what it entails.

The position oversees all five of the women’s lifestyle

sites. It felt like I’d already been trained to do this role as that’s what I was doing at Hearst. As an editor, you traditionally only talk to one audience, one reader, one demo. I was pushed further as an editor at Hearst, to switch between thinking caps. This feels like an extension of that. I manage the creative of photo shoots, picking the hair, makeup, and styling teams.

I’ve been excited to connect our executive team to some of the initiatives I’m working on externally, like the Black in Fashion Council. I’m on the media board, along with Lindsay Peoples Wagner [Teen Vogue] and Nikki Ogunnaike [GQ]. As part of my role on the board, I’m helping to get Bustle aligned with different brands, and they’re excited to become a partner. I’m also on the advisory council for the Social Justice Collaborative at FIT. In this role, I feel able to connect Bustle with causes I’m working on.

Bustle Digital Group was an early adopter of remote photo shoots. How’s that been?

We came up with systems early on. My team and Karen Hibbert [VP, Creative] and her teams sprung into action, figuring out logistics without endangering people. I feel we’ve creatively scaled back, but we haven’t compromised. We want to push ourselves to still have amazing shoots. I think you can see the difference between last year and this year.

Which ones were shot virtually?

The ones shot virtually included Gabrielle Union for Romper, Beanie Feldstein and Demi Lovato for Bustle, Tallulah Willis and Lauren Vassar for The Zoe Report.

Do you think virtual shoots are here to stay?

This will allow us to understand what shoots can be a low lift. There are bigger moments that need to be shot in person. But for smaller profiles, we’ve figured out a way to streamline the process and make it more efficient.

What are you excited about in the future?

Mentoring with IMG’s incubator program. I grew up in the Bronx. This is like nothing I experienced growing up, and it took a while for me to get adjusted.

I don’t want that to ever discourage anyone, just because they think they don’t fit in. I’m also excited about undiscovered talent. We want to give everyone a chance, not just talent we already know.

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BUSTLE HUSTLE The BDG creative team were early adapters of shooting celebrities, like Beanie Feldstein, Demi Lovato, and Tallulah Willis, remotely.

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FashionFLUX

DESIGNERS

REMEMBER PYER MOSS’S DRIVE-IN MOVIE PREMIERE OF AMERICAN, ALSO SCHEDULED TO SHOW AT NYFW?

That’s on hold for now. The documentary was also scheduled to debut in Los Angeles, but with ongoing COVID cases on the West Coast, designer and director Kerby Jean-Raymond decided to be super cautious and postpone for now.

YOUR

TO WATCH BRONX AND BANCO CHRISTOPHER ESBER LAQUAN SMITH WOLK MORAIS WIEDERHOEFT MARINA MOSCONE

CRIB SHEET

THIS WEEK

TOMMY HILFIGER RALPH LAUREN MARC JACOBS OSCAR DE LA RENTA PROENZA SCHOULER THE ROW BRANDON MAXWELL PRABAL GURUNG VAQUERA CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS TELFAR BATSHEVA THE BLONDS

*See you in October…

MICHAEL KORS!

NEW EDS ON THE BLOCK

AYA KANAI, editor in chief, Marie Claire Previously: Chief fashion director, Hearst Publications

SAMIRA NASR, editor in chief, Harper’s Bazaar

LOVE ALERT

Previously: Executive fashion director, Vanity Fair

Cupid did good during quarantine.

Euphoria’s Jacob Elordi and mini super Kaia Gerber are the couple of the summer. They’ve been spotted in matching masks, taking boxing classes, chowing down at Nobu… it’s all too much! Zendaya and Pete Davidson, look away now… Cara Delevingne and Ashley Benson split during lockdown in May. Delevingne is now rumored to be hooking up with Halsey… Elaine Welteroth got married to Jonathan Singletary on her Brooklyn stoop in May…IMG honcho Ivan Bart married longtime love Grant Greenberg in July in front of guests Fern Mallis, Stan Herman, and Mayor Jesse Warren…Plus! What West Coast–based designer is dating the ex of a former Disney star?

DAWN DAVIS, editor in chief, Bon Appétit

Previously: Vice president and publisher of 37 Ink, cookbook author

SIMONE OLIVER, global editor in chief, Refinery29

Previously: Global media partnerships, Facebook and Instagram

ASAD SYRKETT, editor in chief, Elle Decor Previously: Business development lead, Hem Design

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DESIGNERS

FASHION WEEK

NOT SHOWING

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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AppleCARE “New York is hands down the best city on earth. One of my favorite things about the city now, during these times, is that all the tourists and people who love New York only when it’s ‘great’ have gone, and all that’s left is real, true New Yorkers, people who love this city as much as I do. And whether you’re dining outside, or going for a jog on the West Side Highway, everyone has a mutual understanding and respect for one another for riding it out in our amazing city. Everyone has pulled together and shown such resilience, as New Yorkers always do. The incredible energy New York has always had hasn’t died, it’s only just starting to rise again.”

START SPREADING

THE NEWS

New York City dead? Not on our watch! The Big Apple has been on the receiving end of some negative press lately, but true New Yorkers know our town will always bounce back.

We know lots of people who still our city.

By EDDIE ROCHE

COCO BASSEY, content creator “I moved to New York City in February, right before the pandemic hit, but I still wouldn’t change my decision to make NYC my new home! I’ve enjoyed discovering the city through a different lens, one that’s forced me to slow down and explore parts of New York that I never had the time to notice in the past.

I’m also so in awe of how New York set an example for the rest of the country—coming together during such a tough time, and working to get our virus infection numbers down to less than 1 percent! I know a lot of people think that city life can be cold and lonely, but in its toughest times, New York City shows that it’s truly built on the spirit of oneness and community. I couldn’t be prouder to call this place my home.”

VICTOR GLEMAUD,

designer

“Having just returned to the city on September 1st after being away for several months, what I’m enjoying the most are my walks to see friends for dinner and being back in the studio redesigning Fall/Winter ’21.

I grew up in Queens, New York. The current vibe may be less polished, but it’s still New York City. Keep up!”

JASON WU, designer “I moved to New York 20 years ago and I love it just as much today as I did the day I arrived. To me, NYC represents diversity, culture, and strength.”

MAGGIE RAWLINS, model “While things are definitely different right now, I still love the buzz in New York City.

Whether it’s restaurants opening up with outdoor seating or stores opening up with limited capacity, I still love the willpower of the people of NYC.”

LAQUAN SMITH, designer

GRACE ATWOOD,

“What I’m currently enjoying most about New York City is that everyone has transitioned to outside dining. It’s very European, and I love that about the city right now. There’s a vibrant uplifting energy that has been missing for a long time. I personally enjoy people-watching at my favorite Egyptian and Moroccan restaurant, Hamido. The scene is lively, and the food is mouthwatering.”

digital creator “What I love about New York right now is something I’ve always loved....

Even in a pandemic, things are never boring and there’s always something new to discover. The city’s new sidewalk-café culture has brought about many new favorite restaurants and made old favorites feel fresh and new. I feel like I’m falling in love with the city all over again.... It’s a rediscovery of sorts. Spots I might have overlooked in the past have now created these gorgeous little sidewalk oases, and they’re becoming new favorites. In my own neighborhood of Williamsburg, that means places like Aurora (a gem of an Italian restaurant that’s become my favorite spot because of its garden) and OTB (they’ve created the most colorful and happy sidewalk café, perfect for grabbing drinks with friends). And of course, like any true New Yorker, I value convenience; I will never take being able to send out my laundry and get groceries delivered for granted again!”

ALL IMAGES COURTESY

BROOKS NADER, model

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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CYNTHIA ROWLEY,

MAYA STEPPER,

designer

model

CHRISTIAN COWAN, designer

“We’re shooting a video using restaurants that scraped together what they could and built amazing creative outdoor spaces in the streets of NYC, and literally saved their businesses and people’s jobs and our livelihood. It’s to memorialize a moment in NYC that may never be created again and highlight that ‘New York Strong’ spirit and the resilience that our beloved city is known for.”

“I love New York because it has taught me so much about myself. The city turns you into a fighter; it toughens you up and makes you strong. I love the many different people and cultures that are joining together. I have met some of my best friends here, have fallen in love here, struggled and celebrated here. I never get tired of seeing the skyline.”

“New York has this incredible energy that can only come from millions of people from somewhere else converging in one place to make their dreams come true. It’s the magic that makes it the city it is. I can’t wait to get back and go to a Susanne Bartsch party and see everyone living their lives.”

ILFENESH HADERA, actress

MARC BOUWER, designer

“New York is unflinching and unapologetic. New York allows herself moments of vulnerability because she knows she’s strong as lignum vitae.

New York is that way because she’s made of a community of people who are themselves—bold and proud, open and resilient. The New York that I know now is true to character, doing things on her own time, and on her own terms; she is blossoming in autumn when the rest of the world is preparing for winter. New York has always said, ‘Be patient with me and you will be rewarded handsomely.’ What I love and have always loved about the city is how unwavering she is about her right to evolve—and you can either adapt and change or get left behind.”

“One of the things that was special to me this year was having the Whitney Museum as my backyard. I could meet with a friend or two and have a drink on the stairs. I also used it as my workout space to keep my body in shape. Currently, I love all the open tables on the streets and the dangling lights. I’m grateful that I live in one of the safest cities in the world right now. I love you, New York. I will never leave you.”

WES GORDON, designer

“I love seeing how many people are wearing masks. It makes me proud to be a New Yorker.”

TODD SNYDER, designer “I think what’s really cool about the city right now is the people who are still here. They’re real New Yorkers who decided to stick it out during a really hard time. It’s neat to see people, walk by them, and realize that we’re all in this together.”

STEPHEN GAN, founder, V, and creative director, Elle

ALL IMAGES COURTESY

PRABAL GURUNG, designer “I have loved being able to witness New York City come alive with the much-needed conversation around social justice. It’s amazing to see a real reckoning happen, not just in New York but all over the world, around issues that have been close to my heart, and that I have been vocal about for some time. The city has erupted with protests supporting the Black Lives Matter movement, and the murals and graffiti painted all over the city tell the stories of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor, and the countless other lives that have ended tragically.

The summer anthem has been the rallying cries for social justice that reverberate through the streets as so many of us have marched for change. There’s a powerful resistance that lives in New York, one that pays reverence to the BIPOC and black trans activists who paved the way for us all. Right now, New York feels ungentrified, and everyone who left the city left it to us, for us. The city feels more alive than I have seen it in some time. I see the performances at Sheridan Square on Christopher Street, and vogueing at Chelsea Piers. It feels like the city is alive with creativity and energy. I’m grateful to witness this version of NYC in my lifetime.

This has been such a difficult time for all of us, yet New Yorkers are as resilient, pragmatic, and hopeful as ever.”

“What I love most about New York is that it’s called New York! Every day everything we come across is new. And it’s a city that doesn’t let you get on with adhering to old patterns and old ways. It’s a city filled with positivity, and it certainly welcomed a guy like me, who started from nothing.”

ANNA SUI, designer “When I first arrived in New York in the 1970s, it was notorious for the high crime rates, unsafe subways, and other social disorders. But out of that chaos, creativity flourished. I’m optimistic to see what will evolve from this challenging time. With so many talented minds in one place, I know something incredible will come out of New York.”

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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TradeShowREPORT

COTERIE DIGITAL WELCOMES TWO SUPERMODELS

GAIL ELLIOTT and LANA OGILVIE were two of the biggest models of the 1990s, sharing the runways with Cindy, Linda, and Christy. Today, they’ve turned into entrepreneurs, launching their own businesses in the fashion and beauty world. THE DAILY caught up with these two icons to find out more.

By EDDIE ROCHE

GAIL ELLIOTT What are some of the highlights of your modeling career?

There are too many to mention! Walking Gianni and Donatella Versace’s runway show when Cindy [Crawford], Christy [Turlington], and Linda [Evangelista] walked the last passage to George Michael’s “Freedom” track was particularly amazing.

Myself and all the other models were literally screaming with excitement backstage while watching on the TV monitors and waiting to join the others on stage for the show’s finale. Gianni and Donatella were hugging each other and crying with joy. It really was an iconic moment in fashion.

What was your all-time favorite photo shoot?

I don’t have just one. The Gianni Versace campaign with Bruce Weber, the Italian Vogue cover with Hiro, American Vogue with Steven Meisel, the Valentino campaign with Helmut Newton, and many more!

What do people ask you the most about your modeling days?

Did you get to keep the clothes?

Who are you still in touch with from those years?

My best girlfriends from the late ’80s and early ’90s were Cindy Crawford, Yasmin Le Bon, and Helena Christensen. They were also my bridesmaids when my husband, Joe Coffey, who is also co-founder and CEO of our clothing brand Little Joe Woman, and I were married 23 years ago. Cindy, Yassy, and Helena are still my besties.

How do you describe the Little Joe Woman brand?

I would say that it’s feminine, subtly sexy, and rockchic. Our customer is a woman who loves to travel and

SUPERWOMEN Elliott and Ogilvie had hugely successful careers as models.

Elliott walked for Gianni Versace at the height of the brand’s success, and Ogilvie was the first black model to sign a multiyear contract with CoverGirl cosmetics.

likes to look elegant with an edge. Just like me.

Why was the line called Little Joe Woman?

We started the brand with six silk slip dresses and six silk camisoles in six colors and named it Little Joe, after my husband. It started small, kind of like “our baby” Little Joe. As we grew, people thought we were a kids’ brand, so we modified it to Little Joe Woman by Gail Elliott.

How involved are you in the design?

I design for myself and what I feel I’d like to be wearing; as the creative director, I’m very involved in the design of every category in our collections. I can’t actually sketch or draw on the computer, so I have someone to do that for me. I do every fitting, and we actually fit on me, so I get to see how everything feels on my body. I didn’t go to a fashion college but had the best learning experience working with all the international designers—everyone from Gianni Versace, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Azzedine Alaïa, John Galliano to Hermès, Marc Jacobs, and Tom Ford over the 24 years I worked as a model based in New York.

What are your favorite pieces to wear?

I love wearing dresses because I find them so easy to throw on, feel polished, and ready to go. At the moment, we sell via our own website, littlejoewoman.com, and ship via DHL worldwide.

LANA OGILVIE What are some of your most memorable moments from your modeling days?

The traveling and photo shoots I did on location.

The people also, but the trips were amazing. I did a shoot for John Galliano’s first campaign, and I was swimming with dolphins. I did a shoot for British Vogue for a week in Morocco, and we traveled to different parts of the country. I was riding a camel and eating in tents with Bedouins.

What is your all-time favorite shoot?

I have to say swimming with dolphins, by myself with no trainer and three dolphins. That’s hard to top!

When did you start the Lana Ogilvie skincare line?

I officially launched last September. This has been something I’ve been looking into for 15 years. All the products are available online at lanaogilvieskincare.com, also sanctuairelife.com and marjanibeauty.com.

What made you want to create something like this?

My skin has been the foundation of my career as a beauty model. This is how I get paid! I have eczema and am allergic to synthetic fragrance and dyes, so I need products that don’t cause more trauma to my skin.

My line is natural and 70 percent organic. I’m Canadian, so I worked with a Canadian lab on the products.

What’s your philosophy on skincare?

For me, it’s all about the skin!

Quality is paramount. You should use natural, organic products and be diligent in your daily skincare habits. You don’t need a big routine, but you do need to cleanse morning and night. And use sunscreen!

You also have a jewelry line. How long has Sabre Jewelry been around, and what’s the vibe of the line?

We started it in 2014. The vibe of the line is organic and handmade.

A lot of the pieces look as though the metal was rolled by hand. I love the idea of the almost unfinished quality of some of the pieces; they’re not perfect.

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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SHOWTIME

ALL IMAGES COURTESY

Earlier this year, COLLEEN SHERIN was announced as the new president of Coterie, where her years at Saks Fifth Avenue and Alexander McQueen bring a fresh perspective to one of the most important trade shows in the world. What does this seasoned fashion executive and her team have lined up for Coterie’s first-ever alldigital show? THE DAILY got the scoop!

Congrats on your new role at Coterie! Your background is so interesting. Tell us about your professional highlights.

Thank you! I am thoroughly enjoying my role as president of Coterie, which I began early this year—and what a year it’s been thus far! I spent more than 15 years with Saks Fifth Avenue, where I rose through the ranks from associate buyer to fashion market director to vice president, fashion director. I then went inhouse to Alexander McQueen, a brand I had nurtured throughout my career.

What attracted you to the gig at Coterie?

I had attended Coterie over the years in my role as fashion director for Saks Fifth Avenue, where it was an excellent place to discover new brands and review the latest seasonal offerings from our more established contemporary brands. The diversity of the multibrand aspect had great appeal to me and was something that I missed when I went in-house on the mono-brand side.

The international focus of the role is also super exciting as we become an even larger global marketplace.

What are some things you’re hoping to build in the position?

I look forward to bringing new brands and product categories to Coterie, so there’s a true sense of discovery for our retail buyers. There’s also an opportunity for us to do smaller, more curated micro events in the future. We just launched our digital marketplace on September 1st, which is an important multichannel initiative and one that will continue to evolve.

You started in February, and we all know how things went in March. What has it been like starting a new job at such a different time in our world?

It has indeed been a whirlwind since February! Our fall/ winter 2020 event was February 11–13. I left for Milan and Paris the following week, just as the coronavirus was breaking out in Europe. We’ve been working from home since March 16th and had to quickly adapt to remote working styles. Microsoft Teams and Zoom have kept us connected and have even brought us closer together in many ways. There are certain efficiencies and learnings that will come out of this experience, as well as innovation. I do miss the spontaneity of face-toface interactions and the collaboration that occurs in the office, so I’m looking forward to the time when we may all safely be back together.

Coterie is not able to have a physical show this year.

Tell us about the digital platform you’ve created.

Even before COVID-19, our company, Informa Markets Fashion, which houses the premier trade events of Coterie, Magic, Project, Children’s Club, and MICAM Americas (our footwear show, which is the sister show to the globally recognized MICAM Milano),

THE BEAT GOES ON… Coterie won’t be held at the Javits Center this year but is moving ahead digitally, from September 1 to November 1. More than 15,000 registered buyers have signed up on day one.

had been in talks regarding adding a digital component to our events, as we truly believe the future of fashion is a marriage of physical and digital. With the global pandemic, our plans were accelerated, especially with the responsibility we have to our fashion community; they rely on us to convene the industry. Over the past few months, our teams, along with our partner, NuOrder, have been hard at work creating a truly revolutionary new marketplace. In one centralized hub, which showcases more than 1,200 brands across women’s, men’s, children’s, and footwear, retail buyers can shop products through dynamic digital showrooms, with 360-degree imagery and video, make appointments, and conduct direct 1:1 business, much like a live event.

How else are you using digital?

Taking this experience a step further and mimicking the B2C shopping experience, which is an intuitive experience for even the most nontech savvy user, we’ve also created shopable, curated editorials and features written by fashion editors and industry tastemakers.

Buyers can expect to find an ongoing refreshment of themed roundups, trend reports, and behind-the-brand Q&As, just to name a few examples. This experience is where we truly see the reimagination of wholesale commerce, through content-driven commerce. It’s intuitive, it’s delightful, and it delivers the exact products you’re looking for, plus the ones you didn’t even know you needed! Additionally, we’ve translated our onsite educational programming into our digital environment.

Refreshed throughout the entire eight weeks, buyers can explore on-demand digital sessions and educational guides, geared toward both the veteran buyer, as well as the first-time trade event attendee. Built with the bigger picture fashion community needs in mind, our digital trade event is truly remarkable, and exactly what our industry needs, both now and in the future.

Tell us about pairing with NuOrder.

It’s a true partnership, joining the best of both worlds to translate the experience of discovery and commerce in a new and exciting virtual environment. NuOrder’s intuitive platform, robust features, and superior engineering for scale and flexibility were the driving force behind our decision to partner with them.

How many brands have signed up this season?

We have more than 1,200 brands exhibiting across our five digital marketplaces of Coterie, Magic, Project, Children’s Club, and MICAM Americas.

What are some of the interesting brands we should check out this season?

We have so many wonderful brands with us this

The Little Joe Woman and Lana Ogilvie Cosmetics online showrooms at Coterie Digital are accessible to retail buyers only. Explore their collections and view their discussion with Coterie president Colleen Sherin by visiting coteriefashionevents.com for buyer access.

NYFW1_SupermodelFeature_APPROVED.indd 2

season, from House of Waris Botanicals, Illesteva, LaQuan Smith, Najash, Qua Vino, Temperley London to The Kooples, Kleed Kimonos, Joie, Marine Layer, Ramy Brook, Lana Ogilvie Cosmetics, and Little Joe Woman by Gail Elliott, just to name a few!

You’ve also had success already with a lot of buyers signing up. Who are some of the big buyers?

Yes, we have! At launch, on September 1st, we had just over 15,000 registered buyers, and the numbers have continued on an upward trend since.

This includes major department stores, specialty stores, and online retailers, such as Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Harrods, El Palacio de Hierro, Isetan, Shopbop, Olivela, Rent the Runway, Revolve, Verishop, Lisa Kline, Maisonette, Tootsies, Fred Segal, and on and on!

What would you advise brands to do in order to appeal to consumers at this moment?

Brands must be aware of shifting consumer lifestyles; the trend toward casual comfort and luxe loungewear is not going away and has been further amplified by the work-from-home movement. A focus on health, beauty, and wellness is also an opportunity for brands in the self-care and activewear categories. People need to feel optimism in this environment we’re currently living in; product that elicits a positive emotional response through novelty, color, print, and pattern is a must.

What are buyers looking for?

Key items for the season include PPE/face masks, “Zoom” tops (as we’re being seen from the waist up on video calls), casual summer dresses, luxe loungewear, and beauty and wellness items.

A lot of former and current models have launched successful brands of their own. You will soon be talking to Gail Elliott and Lana Ogilvie. What are you curious to know from them?

I’m excited to be speaking with both Gail of Little Joe Woman by Gail Elliott and Lana of Lana Ogilvie Cosmetics. It will be wonderful to learn how they’ve successfully pivoted to become brand builders from the knowledge they gained through their major modeling careers.

What are you most excited about in your new job?

So many things! From further growing our digital initiatives, bringing new, undiscovered brands onboard, to in-office collaboration with my colleagues, and further exploring international opportunities—and this is just a start!

Finally, we’re all working from home these days. What’s your typical work-from-home look?

A “Zoom” top, track pants, and a smile!

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

9/12/20 3:36 PM

Chic SPREE

SHOPPING PROMOTION

FALL

OBSESSIONS You made it through the endless summer, darlings!

And that doesn't mean you can't still wear delicate pieces bursting with bright pops of color. Pair your favorite LBD with layers of these luxe accessories.

All available at lagos.com or go to the website for store locations.

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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CAVIAR GOLD

stacking ring set in Dark Blue and Pink, $1,800

CAVIAR GOLD

stacking ring set in Black and Light Blue, $1,800

CAVIAR GOLD

stacking ring set $1,250

SMART CAVIAR

pink ceramic stainless steel watch bracelet, $1,095 SMART CAVIAR

stainless steel watch bracelet, $1,900

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9/13/20 12:04 PM

Luxe INTEL

CIAO

BELLA

CARTHUSIA

SILVIO RUOCCO, CEO & VIRGINIA RUOCCO, BRAND MANAGER

Beauty Made in Italy is here!

In addition to its first ever digital magazine launching on FashionWeekDaily.com this Tuesday, 12 of the country's most luxurious brands will be f looding Fashion Week with their exclusive offerings from skincare, haircare, makeup, and more. Here's a sneak peak at the brands you need to know right now.

What sets your brand apart from other beauty lines?

One of the things that makes Carthusia so special is that all of the fragrances are strictly related to Capri: the environment, plants and flowers of the island.

Carthusia is an intrinsic part of the culture of the island.

Are you determined to be based out of Italy?

If you wish to write “Made

in Italy” on your product you have to be faithful to that statement!

What is the magic of Capri’s products?

Carthusia fragrances are dedicated to a sophisticated traveler who seeks elegance and tradition in a perfume, who would like to immerse him- or herself in the olfactory heart of the island.

ACQUA DELL'ELBA FABIO MURZI, CEO, FOUNDER

Your business model is inspired by Renaissance artisans' workshops.

It was an inspiring historical period with groundbreaking discoveries, especially in the field of chemistry, with new techniques that improved distillation and the quality of the essences.

The Tuscan artisans' workshops were places where the extraordinary manual abilities of the Maestro and his disciples married with a natural propensity towards beauty, a profound knowledge of the arts and culture, and a strong drive towards excellence. Nowadays, we believe that the same concepts are still valid in order to create beautifully crafted and authentic artifacts, reflecting our natural surroundings, our culture and our way of life. Everyday our artisans craft each product by hand in our factory in Marciana Marina, on the island of Elba. We concentrate on a limited production due to the difficulty of sourcing and selecting raw materials, as well as because of the necessary time involved in our production processes.

RIPAR COSMETICS

MARVIS

GAMA PROFESSIONAL

Tell us how the company was established.

My mother and father started the company over 40 years ago as a result of their work in the areas of advanced surgical and cosmetic aesthetic treatments for the skin. They found that their patients could benefit from a foundation that could effectively cover bruises, scarring and redness after procedures so they created one. That led to even more innovation, including a patent for our foundation formulation, and a full line of makeup and skincare products that would perform well with some of the most unique skin concerns but, also safe for sensitive and vulnerable skin as well.

What’s the company’s philosophy?

It has always been to take a multi-dimensional view to creating our products. We combine university-backed scientific research and nutritional study with our daily work with aesthetic customers at our spa facility in Campania and surgical patients to create products that are practical for users but, also highly effective. We believe strongly in combining the theoretical knowledge with the realities our users face.

What was the inspiration behind the unique flavors?

The inspiration is in the selection of the perfect ingredients that guarantee the union of two sensations: delight and long-lasting freshness.

Every Marvis flavor starts with in-depth research on the best mix between the various ingredients, ensuring a base of long-lasting freshness with which the unexpected essences partner.

Each flavor has some reference to Italian tradition, like the Amarelli Licorice flavor (created in partnership with Calabrian licorice maker since 1731, Amarelli).

You also have a mouthwash. Any plans to expand?

The mouthwash is the ideal complement to the Marvis oral care experience. Our philosophy is to make the daily routine of oral care enjoyable with excellent products in terms of quality, design and taste. We are working on several projects that reflect this mantra of ours.

In 1969 you created the first flat iron. What are you launching now?

We are working on new ultralight and performant motors, further developing the iQ hairdryer line and a new line of premium professional straighteners.

Tell us about the technology behind it. iQ Perfetto is the lightest and most well-performing smart hair dryer in the world. It's equipped with an intelligent digitalized brushless motor that increases performance by reducing drying time by 30% without using extra power.

Furthermore, the iQ Perfetto is equipped with technology that makes it ultra durable compared to its competitors.

This is enhanced via the combined action of a hi-tech self-diagnosis system which identifies and solves any operational problems and paired up with a one of a kind auto-clean technology which deep cleans the filter by rotating the motor turbine in the opposite direction. It also comes with an innovative micro-filter that captures even the tiniest particles of dirt from the air while protecting the engine and other components of the dryer and the scalp and hair.

DR. LUCA PIOMBINO M.D., BOARD CERTIFIED PLASTIC, RECONSTRUCTIVE AND AESTHETIC SURGEON, RIPAR CEO / PRESIDENT

FRANCESCA GALASSI, GLOBAL MARKETING

JONATHAN MORELLO, CEO, PRESIDENT AND FOUNDER OF BSC, INC.

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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ACCA KAPPA

SKIN&CO ROMA

MAYTE LANDEROS, VICE PRESIDENT OF US OPERATIONS What do you think Italian beauty brands offer that no one else can?

I think it's the culture that makes Italian brands so exceptional. In Italy, when developing an idea, the first ingredient is absolute love. From there, the creation process is filled with passion, dedication, and joy. The result of this process is something elegant and refined with the utmost quality.

When talking specifically about Italian beauty brands, it is the above combined with the love of nature, the knowledge of its gifts passed between generations, and the use of Old World craftsmanship that makes them unlike any other beauty brand in the world.

What’s next for the company?

Acca Kappa has always been driven by creativity, quality, and innovation with a deep appreciation and respect for the environment. Most of all, we are always seeking new ways to bring our products closer to nature. Currently, we are in the final stages of launching our new “Bio” line, a 100% biodegradable collection of hair and bath essentials that is as gentle on the body as on the environment.

GABRIEL BALESTRA, FOUNDER Tell us how you got into the beauty business.

My origins are not from the beauty business but I have always felt close to the category because I grew up around plants, flowers, and roots that would ultimately make it into a beauty product.

What’s your process for selecting the right ingredient?

Using the right ingredients in our foods or our beauty routine is what I call “true luxury” today. Most are grown in greenhouses and farmed to grow as quickly as possible. I wanted to create a line that was naturally sustainable and also respectful of Nature and her time. We pick ingredients right [in Italy] where they have grown for thousands of years. There’s a season for everything. We follow that process to a "t", which means the ingredients we grow are completely GMO free and they aren’t fertilized to grow faster in any way. This forces you to operate a little differently as you might have seasons that are really rich and others that aren’t as prominent.

HERBATINT

MARGERY KESSLER, SR. MARKETING MANAGER BIOFORCE USA How was the company originally established?

Herbatint was fashioned from the founder, Michele Albergo’s desire to craft a hair color product that worked well but that left the hair strong and healthy. In the world of chemically-laden hair color only aimed at product performance, Michele strode to do the unthinkable.

So in 1970, he created a totally innovative formula: a permanent hair color without ammonia, a first in the hair coloring world that also contained herbal extracts and had a very low percentage of hydrogen peroxide.

Why the attraction to herbology?

Michele was strongly influenced by a Swiss herbalist with whom he had an apprenticeship. He applied this knowledge of herbs, which had been passed down from generation to generation, to his formulation for Herbatint.

SAPONIFICIO VARESINO

ANTONIO PAVAN, FOUNDER OF BRAND TO MARKETS AND EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR OF SV

PRORASO

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY

STEFANO D'ANDREA, BRAND MANAGER Why do you think the brand's formulas have stood the test of time?

The guiding principle always remains the one indicated

by Piero Martelli and then by his son Ludovico: to create quality products that make shaving enjoyable and flawless, in the barbershop and at home. We develop our formulas in collaboration with the Italian barbers, thanks to our relationship that we have built over all these years. Then, our R&D department works every day to improve our formulas and to guarantee the best performance standard.

And it's still a family run business too.

Proraso is still a family business and this is the fourth generation of the Martelli family in the company. The continuous presence of the family in the company ensures a long-term vision and a bond between the brand and its consumer that is hard to find anywhere else. (Plus, the Martellis love what they do!)

Beauty_Made_in_Italy_SHIP_DQ.indd 2

Tell us about the Marseilles method for the saponification of oils.

The original Marseilles process to make the soaps would use Mediterranean Sea water with olive oil and plant extracts together in a large cauldron and heated for 10 days at 100 °C. This mixture is then stirred constantly for several days and left to settle until it becomes solid. The paste is then triple milled in steel drums to remove moisture and poured into a mold and left to set for up to a month to further dry out.

How was the company originally established?

During War World II, even the basic products like a soap were very hard to find. Bardelli Dante, the founder of Saponificio Varesino, while on the front line mastered the way to make soaps from the available natural ingredients for all his brothers in Arms.

Upon his return from service, in 1945, he decided to study the chemical principles that govern saponification and together with his wife he began to produce soaps in the traditional way.

Why do you think it’s lasted so long and stayed in the family?

The company strongly believes in family values and for that reason all three generations are still involved in the business. For the founders it is still crucial that the message of artisanship and family go hand in hand and they believe this is the reason why they have been so successful.

PERLIER

ELISA GIRAUDI, CEO The formulas have been used for generations, why do you think that is?

Our dedicated team of chemists, pharmacists, scientists and agricultural specialists are committed to developing the best conceivable skincare products, and the most powerful natural products that science can deliver. At Perlier, we commit our time and dedication into our production process to ensure each and every one of our products embodies Perlier’s mission.

Are you determined to continue being based out of Italy?

La Carignana is the company’s own Biological Research Center, located in the outskirts of Turin and the home to Perlier’s 150 acres of pesticide and insecticide free land, where Perlier cultivates its ingredients from fresh flowers, healthy plants, and honey. La Carignana is an endless source of inspiration for us, is full of culture, history, nature and represents an invaluable asset for our company.

9/13/20 12:24 PM

CoifREPORT

BLONDE AMBITION Lockdown has been tough on everyone—including those of us with blonde hair. After months of neglecting our strands, we needed an intervention, stat! Enter Kérastase Blond Absolu line, which works like an IV drip for your hair. CARLY QUIST, Kérastase artist and owner of Z(ed) New York Salon in NYC, gives us the lowdown on care and repair.

HAIR HERO Did you know that it’s just as important to have a nighttime routine for your locks? The Blond Absolu line from Kérastase is here to help!

What’s so revolutionary about the new overnight recovery serum?

Cicanuit is going to be every blonde’s nighttime best friend! It repairs your hair while you sleep, so it’s the easiest thing a blonde can do! Just like we apply our nighttime face creams and serums, we should be applying a nighttime hair serum and this one is just for blondes. It erases 55 percent of bleach damage!

Why are hyaluronic acid and edelweiss flower so key to this formula?

Known in skincare, hyaluronic acid is used to add moisture and reduce fine lines. In Cicanuit, this powerful ingredient hydrates the hair fiber and plumps each strand from within, hydrating from the inside out. The edelweiss flower is then infused for softness and recovery.

How do you recommend using it?

You can apply it on dry or damp hair right before you

go to bed. Depending on how blonde you are and how much TLC your hair needs, you can use it anywhere from two to three times a week every night. For someone like myself, a bleach blonde, I tend to use it nightly. The best part is you don’t need to wash it out in the morning.

My go-to nighttime combo is applying Cicanuit on the ends, for repair, and then Kérastase Fresh Affair Dry Shampoo on my roots to elongate my style and absorb any oils while I sleep, so I can wake up and I’m ready for the day! I personally start by gently brushing through my hair, starting at the ends and then working up to the scalp. Then I apply two to three pumps of Cicanuit mid-length to ends, working through the hair for even distribution. Depending on my desired style for the next day, I will either put my hair into one or two braids for more of an undone beach-y wave, or I will twist my hair into a topknot bun on top of my head and secure for more of a voluminous glamour wave in the morning.

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Do you think in the time of COVID, a beauty ritual is becoming more common?

Definitely! I know with myself I have started incorporating more of a self-care routine for my skin, hair, body, and mind.

Should we have a nighttime haircare regime?

Yes! Just like we’re starting to see more people incorporating a nighttime skincare routine, we should be doing the same for our hair. Taking that same care and TLC we do for our skin, but with our hair is an important step.

What are the common factors that blondes must battle?

Breakage and damaged ends. Being a blonde can take a toll on your hair, especially over a period of time. Treating your hair with extra care is essential for blondes. Many blondes are not treating their hair with care. Blondes naturally need to take extra care of their ends than most.

Do you have any advice for the fair-haired?

For deciding on a shade of blonde, I always take into account two main factors—what will suit their skin tone and hair texture, and which maintenance of blonde will suit their lifestyle (i.e. someone who needs a lowermaintenance color, who cannot come to the salon every four to five weeks for a touch-up, would not best suit a high-maintenance blonde, like an all-over bleach blonde.)

I like to think there’s a type of blonde for everyone.

Depending on the blonde shade, for upkeep how many times should they be in the salon, especially considering social distancing?

That would definitely depend on a couple different

“DO I THINK BLONDES HAVE MORE FUN?

OF COURSE!”

factors, for example, how blonde you are or are wanting to go. A double-process blonde (all-over bleach blonde) needs to upkeep every four to five weeks max for a root touch-up. For highlights, I would suggest anywhere from five to eight weeks in between. Then someone who is a little bit more of a lower-maintenance blonde, like a balayage, or anything that is more of a subtle blonde, you can go anywhere from eight to 15 weeks. I would definitely consult with your stylist beforehand so you know the exact upkeep of the blonde you want to achieve.

Have you seen any new hair trends popping up for fall?

Fall right now is all about change! Even if it’s something small, I feel like everyone is ready for a bit of change. Right now, I’m seeing my clients playing around with their fringes, going shorter, modern-day Bardot, or adding in a bit of face framing. I think we’re still seeing the ’90s trend happening. I’m seeing a lot of requests for pops of color around the front!

Are there any Instagram accounts that you like to watch for ideas?

I’ve been loving @hairdotcom for anything hair-related!

Who do you think gets blonde right?

Definitely Gwen Stefani—her blonde is always on point. #blondegoals

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BeautyREPORT

PERFECT POUT Gigi Hadid reigns supreme with the brand's new Lifter Gloss (swoon!)

THE SHOW

GOES ON While there might be less front row action, designers are still finding ways to present their latest collections! Enter industry makeup mainstains like Maybelline New York ambassador VINCENT OQUENDO to make sure the final beauty look is just as polished as the fashion.

By TANGIE SILVA

Even during this time of social distancing, people are still all about beauty! Are you seeing any emerging trends?

You know, it's no mystery people are going way bolder with their makeup. I find that people have the time now to devote to being more adventurous.

Now, a lot of people are doing bigger eyeliner looks which as a makeup artist, I would see it amongst my peers. I would see other makeup artists doing that kind of thing, but I'm seeing it more amongst people that I would never think that I would see these kinds of bolder looks. It’s more graphic, a more unconventional shape. I'm seeing more colorful looks as well.

Do you think since everyone is on Zoom and other forms of social media that it’s impacting these bolder looks?

I think people want some kind of control. I've been thinking about this a lot lately like the Renaissance and times when we've seen a surge in art. There's been some terrible things happening so I think we're sort of on that precipice. There's so much happening in the world that people are getting overly creative because they're very stressed and even for me as an artist, I am venturing into different ways of being creative too.

So, you’re excited about seeing this surge in adventurousness.

Absolutely, because this is a song that a lot of makeup artists have been singing for a long time.

When we see big bold looks and people sort of embracing it, it is really nice. It makes us happy and I've found personally that I've been getting tagged in a lot of things like red carpets where I’ve done bigger looks for someone like Ashley Graham. People are recreating them. Even things I've forgotten about!

It just brings me joy that it still influences and inspires people.

Who are you following?

They’re usually my peers but I just love Jillian Dempsey. We did a press tour together for Charlie’s Angels and she was doing Kristen Stewart. I know her process and find it incredibly inspiring. We had to collaborate with the three and they need to look alike but not identical, but they had to fit together like a collection. We did a specific kind of look—bold winged eyeliner with a floating liner on the bottom.

She was working right behind me and I remember thinking the way she was applying the pigment was so different than the way I would. I appreciate that but I would have never done it that way. And I'm

going to keep it in my back pocket! I thought it was so beautiful and it was so effortless as an artist, we want the makeup to look effortless, even when it took great effort.

How do you think the digital and social media world is affecting the beauty industry?

It's kind of an opportunity. No, it’s not kind of…it is an opportunity. People are referencing things that artists like me have been doing for years. They're sort of looking through my catalog of work and pulling it out, dusting it off. I've always created looks that were aspirational. I wanted to create a lot of really bold looks that inspire young people because for me growing up I didn't see anybody like me. I'm Puerto Rican, and I have a deep olive skin tone. Now, there's a lot of diversity. That’s what I love about Maybelline New York. The brand thinks about those kinds of things. They have shades with depth and that's what's most important.

Are you excited about any new products they’re releasing this season?

The new brow crayon! It's almost like a pomade but it also has fibers. That’s what makes it special because for a long time the products either just had fibers or just color or a wax. This is combining all

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MOST WANTED The brand was a huge inspiration last February at NYFW (right) and beyond

three. So, you get that perfect texture. Your brows are going to stay filled out, you get the color and you get the depth. If you have sparse brows, it's going to give you that brow hair texture because it grabs onto your actual fibers or inlays on the skin. It looks like actual hair.

And then there’s the new gloss too.

Yes, it has hyaluronic acid in it which makes it feel comfortable. There’s a diversity between a matte and a gloss which sounds insane! But to me is it's beauty babe. I want something that shimmers, but it's also matte…but it's also shiny. It’s not going to give you that glittery gloss, which I love because you can just press it on your lips and it'll just look like your lips are shiny and healthy. The hyaluronic acid is the stuff that makes your skin plump. It's what gives you that bounce to your skin. Ultimately it’s going to smooth and hydrate.

Let’s get back to Fashion Week or what is the new Fashion Week. You’re actually working on a show with Christian Siriano. How does that process work now?

Christian and Maybelline have been really amazing and meticulous about safety, planning exactly what we're going to be doing, how, and a lot of conversation to make sure everybody's safe. We all want to make sure everybody's doing the right thing and feels comfortable. It’s been such a positive experience to be completely honest with you. And I think it's going to be a fabulous example of what the new normal is going to look like.

That being said, are you missing any of that NYFW 'chaos'?

I do a little bit. I miss the excitement and the anticipation but it's funny because I'm still feeling it

even now. It's nostalgic and yes, there's fear because of COVID but there's also the natural fear that I get before a show asking myself, ‘Is this going to be good?’

Not the collection! The makeup look. Am I going to create something that I think nailed it or not? I've done shows all over the world and I still always get those butterflies. But Christian is such a show man.

I'm really looking forward to it and very excited about creating something memorable.

You have such a great outlook. It seems like hair stylists and makeup artists are always so positive during Fashion Week.

We set the tone whether it's on a photo shoot or whether it's for a show or even when a celebrity is going to go to a red carpet. Hair and makeup can decide the mood because when they get out of that chair and you’ve been nice and pleasant, it puts that person in such a different mental state. It's really nerve-racking for them and anything that can make them feel more comfortable? That's my job. I try to make everybody feel a little more at ease and if I can do that then I've done a good job.

Where do you see the beauty industry going in the future? 2020 has been rough!

If you want to get into this business now, I would suggest that you brush up on safety safety protocols in this new world like which brush cleanser to use or even what disposable tools like sponge applicators that can be thrown out after they've been used. Do it right and make sure everybody's comfortable, hygienic and safe. I think that's the number one thing to think about. And the makeup look isn't secondary but people should just take their time and do it right.

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ChicOASIS

READY TO REFORM

Tucked away on Windmill Lane in Amagansett, The Reform Club is the perfect place for some R&R. Whether you opt for one of the elegant suites or a stay at the four-bedroom private home, the luxurious full-service inn has it all. CHASE LERNER gives THE DAILY a VIP tour.

Where did the name The Reform Club come from?

The name came about through a committee decision. At the time, people had a particular fondness for The Reform Club in London [one of the city’s most famous private member’s clubs].

It was suggested that we repurpose the phrase to reflect our goal and mission to provide an environment that creates the ability to reflect, relax, meditate, and ultimately challenge oneself to undergo some level of personal and private reform.

Tell us about your logo.

We use the symbol of a tree, created by the artist Dan Rizzie, because trees reference change while standing in stillness. They grow and become stronger, yet, like all of us, are vulnerable and therefore must adjust to stay strong and healthy. We witness their continual renewal each year as their leaves change color, release, and bloom. These are the values and inspirations that guide us.

What are the perks of running a Hamptons resort?

The principal perk is working at the tip of Long Island, enjoying the Eastern Seaboard architecture, and the growing diversity of the community. From food to art, the shops are willing to experiment with respect to retail and wellness. We consider Amagansett centrally located, and therefore perfectly positioned to enjoy and contribute to these trends.

What makes this location so special?

The Reform Club is within comfortable, nearly effortless, walking distance from the town center, the train, and the bus. This makes our property eminently accessible on an affordable basis. Our guests and visitors can also walk or ride our bicycles to Indian Wells Beach, an area that has long been considered desirable, due to good swimming and fishing, lounging, walking, exercising, and wandering in search of seashells and starfish.

What do guests get up to at The Reform Club?

Having completed a two-year renovation of the Club’s infrastructure and décor, we became focused on creating awareness. Through additional marketing efforts, word of mouth, and social media, we introduced a variety of events, programs, and

pop-ups based on our read of guests, visitors, and the community we serve. We had outdoor yoga and mindful exercise—compliant with current COVIDrelated concerns. We initiated an early-evening weekly music night that featured a variety of artists and created a warm and memorable familyoriented destination for guests and nonguests alike.

We also used a refurbished, early 20th-century building on the property for a variety of pop-ups, including a gallery-sponsored art exhibit.

We saw that Nina Agdal is leading fitness efforts, too.

We experimented with an exercise class hosted by Nina to showcase her concept, The Agdal Method.

The workout, which happens every other Thursday, consists of a warm-up bike ride from the Club to Indian Wells Beach, followed by a 40-minute workout in the sand, a cool-down bike ride back to the Club, and ending with a refreshment happy hour.

Nina also hosts some classes on Saturday mornings.

What are your recent highlights?

The highlight of this summer was seeing the hotel come to life and turning itself into the type of oasis that many guests have been in search of for months. In a summer with so much uncertainty, we continued to provide a safe place without sacrificing the experience our guests have come to expect from us year after year. We hope we can continue to introduce and provide worthwhile and innovative events at The Reform Club to further use our local grounds, garden, and orchard.

In three words, how would you describe the property?

Peaceful, beautiful, and special.

What about a guest’s experience while staying here?

Restoring, relaxing, and quiet.

How do you help guests experience the perfect Hamptons morning?

We offer a well-planned, balanced, and weightless experience. The morning begins with warm pastries, fresh fruit, juice, and hot coffee delivered to your suite or cottage. Then, we highly recommend a boutique exercise class or soaking in the late-morning sun and sea breeze by venturing to the beach on one of our summer cruisers.

TIME TO UNWIND The Reform Club takes its name inspiration from the private member’s club in London, although the vibe Out East is notably more subdued and relaxed.

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By LIZZI BICKFORD

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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MainMENU

New York TOUGH

Like everyone in the restaurant industry, JOHN MEADOW, the owner of NoMad gem Scarpetta, has faced the toughest year of his career. Things are starting to perk up again with last month’s reopening of an outdoor garden spanning East 29th Street. He tells THE DAILY how they’ve survived, what’s new on the menu, and why New York City desperately needs indoor dining to return.

By EDDIE ROCHE

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TO STAY OR TO GO? Meadow enjoys one of his specialty dishes (the spaghetti) alfresco, while patrons can also order meal kits to cook their favorites at home.

We’re happy you’re back in action. Tell us about the outside space.

We did a collaboration with Whispering Angel, the wonderful rosé. Elisabeth Santana from ES Blooms came in to design the space. There’s no Scarpetta outdoors [normally], so it was less about trying to bring the Scarpetta experience outside. We wanted to create something whimsical and feminine. No one is going to the South of France this summer, so let’s create this transportive, outdoor, playful garden space, and have fun with it.

How did it feel to finally reopen outdoors?

We did a family-and-friends gathering last month.

A few days before, we brought our staff back for a socially distanced meeting in the ballroom of The James hotel with masks on. It was so touching to reconnect with this group of people. We didn’t have to hire one new person. Everyone who worked here before came back. There was a “we’re in this together” feeling that was great. Then the customers started coming, and there’s a lot of love and understanding.

How many seats are there outside?

For the past month, there were 72, and we just got approval to go farther into the street on the weekends. There’s no money to be made through this effort, but that’s not the point. The point is brand relevance, get the machine running, get our people working, and take care of our customers. It’s been a wonderful silver lining for this tough time.

Anything new on the menu?

We open at 4 p.m., which is early for us. We’ve added this whole aperitivo section. You order a cocktail and then you get these cute snacks, like a meat-and-cheese plate and marinated warm

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olives. They’re elevated bar snacks, but they’re totally different from Scarpetta. That’s every day from 4 to 5:30 p.m. We’re also doing our family meal, which is fried chicken. It’s gourmet comfort food. For drinks, we’ve got a frosé and a sgroppino with lemon sorbet, vodka, and prosecco.

Do you find yourself checking the weather a lot more to see if it’s going to rain?

We’re all meteorologists at this point! We’ve been playing the weather game for years for our location at Gurney’s in Montauk. Here, we’ve stayed open practically every single day. We have to put up these tents to stop the rain, but even if there’s sideways rain, New Yorkers are so great and want to stay in spite of crappy weather. They’re happy to be out!

You’re also delivering now.

The beauty of COVID is that all these things that you might want to fight [in the past], you have no choice now. You have to be malleable. We’re doing delivery, meal kits, and in-home catering. We’re bringing Scarpetta outside of the restaurant’s four walls, which don’t exist. I’m grateful for it. I think a lot of it is going to stick. We’re starting with [food delivery service] Goldbelly this month to ship the pasta all over the country. We’re able to cultivate relationships outside of the seven cities where we have Scarpetta locations. It’s different but a positive.

What’s in the meal kits?

There are different versions of it. I like the pasta party the most. It’s DIY, but it’s 75 percent done.

We have our signature spaghetti, the sauce is all pre-done, plus ready-to-bake stromboli bread.

There are different pasta options. For dessert, we have the espresso budino.

What’s Scarpetta at Home?

It’s new. We did a lot of dinners in the Hamptons and Westchester where we send a chef and a sommelier for a dinner party at a guest’s home. We cook in their kitchen. It’s a Scarpetta dinner party at home!

How have the past few months been for you?

We closed 26 restaurants and bars in mid-March across nine cities in three days. That was intense.

Going through those logistics, you put your head down and do it. Then, we had to figure out what to do with the staff. Across the board, we have 1,300 people employed. We put forth a great effort to engage them. We have proudly carried everyone’s health coverage this whole time. Frankly, the government stimulus was meaningful to us at a corporate level and for the staff. The tough part was the pace. I thought it would be six months and done. Now, we are entering month #7. On the other hand, we have nine projects and design and construction over the world. I believe in our tomorrow. I believe in the resilience of New York City. We all have conviction for what we do. If you love New York and you love the restaurant business in this disaster, at least you know you chose the right path for yourself in life. I’m grateful to have that moment of self-reflection. A lot of our team feels the same. We’re here to ride it out. I hope we get back to somewhat normality sooner than later.

How are your other locations doing?

Our biggest markets are New York and Miami.

Miami has been a roller coaster. It’s open and closed. We’re currently closed in five out of nine cities. We have reduced operations in four. The

most robust market for us has been Scarpetta Beach in Montauk. There’s all this wonderful outside space that is traditionally used for banquets and weddings, but this year that’s not happening, so we were able to repurpose it for additional outdoor seating for Scarpetta Beach. That’s probably one of the busiest restaurants in the state through this process. That was a wonderful place to put good energy for us.

How will Scarpetta look when indoor dining returns?

We’ve already done the work. We’ve already installed these glass dividers throughout the space. If you recall, we were expected to have indoor dining on July 6th, so we had made our modifications to the space. Even with the outdoor patio, we have our Purell stations all over the place, and the servers are masked up with gloves. What I’m happy with is that it’s less physical and more about human behavior. I think people in New York have largely been compassionate. The customers have been respectful of the servers. It’s a tough role right now to be a server, where you have to serve hundreds of people a night that you don’t know.

Do you think the city took too long to make a decision about restoring indoor dining?

Emphatically, yes! I think it’s time. I don’t think it’s right that you can go across the street from Queens to Long Island and eat inside a restaurant.

I don’t think that’s fair. Restaurants provide social connectivity. As a society and a community, we need that life. Hundreds of thousands of people are employed by restaurants in New York City.

[Last week, Governor Cuomo announced that indoor dining can resume in NYC at 25 percent capacity on September 30th.]

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ChicTOAST

CALL of the WINE

As a wine region, Sonoma might have once been in the shadow of Napa. But no more, thanks to The Calling! The premium wine brand—a joint venture between CBS Sports commentator Jim Nantz and Peter Deutsch, CEO of Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits—has unveiled two delicious new offerings. The Calling certified sommelier THEO RUTHERFORD lets THE DAILY in on some tasting notes.

Why is Sonoma having a moment right now?

Because too many people let out the secret! In all seriousness, Sonoma is a region that brings incredible value and quality. I think people have stopped thinking that the only two things you can get from California are good cabernet and chardonnay.

Sonoma has some of the most unique and diverse microclimates that allow us to grow everything from the most delicate and expressive pinots to big, lush zinfandels. It really is the region for everyone.

What should we expect when drinking wines from the Sonoma wine region?

This is a tough question, given that Sonoma is so diverse. One small vineyard of 10 acres can have three or four different microclimates, causing the grapes to ripen differently and bring different flavors to the wine. Wine from Sonoma Coast is usually going to have brighter acid, while wines from Alexander Valley endure some of the hottest temperatures in the area, resulting in huge wines.

But if I had to say one thing is consistent in all Sonoma wines, it’s that they’re layered. Sonoma wines never have just one dominant flavor or texture. They’re wines that evolve as you drink them.

Tell us more about the new Russian River pinot noir.

What makes this wine special?

There are some regions in the world of wine that are just made for certain grapes. Napa and Bordeaux for cabernet and merlot; Australia and Rhône for syrah; and Burgundy and Russian River for pinot noir. Pinot

noir is an extremely hard grape to get right. It needs time to ripen but hates the heat. When it gets too hot, it starts to taste sweet. The reason that the Russian River Valley is so perfect is an amazing combination of the soil we have and the cooling influence of the fog we get every single night. The soil gives the pinot noir the nutrients it needs, and the fog keeps it nice and cool at night. The result is The Calling Russian River Valley pinot noir—a wine that has expressive cherries and strawberries, along with beautiful floral notes and an acidic backbone that makes it perfect for food.

And what about the new Sonoma Coast chardonnay?

It sounds delicious!

Sonoma Coast is one of those regions that, once you discover it for yourself and taste a wine from there, you will understand why it’s so amazing.

Chardonnays from this region are the antithesis of what most people think California chardonnay is.

You don’t get those big, oaky, buttery, full wines.

The Calling Sonoma Coast chardonnay is much more restrained, with flavors like green apple, fresh lemon, orange zest, and just a hint of nuttiness from oak. It’s almost like a chablis that went to the gym a little! I always love when people tell me they don’t want to taste it because they hate chardonnay. By the end of the conversation, they’re usually asking me for a second or third taste.

What kind of food are you pairing them both with?

For The Calling Russian River Valley pinot noir, you can play with so many things. It’s really one of the

few red wines that you can pair with fish, because the tannins are light enough that they won’t compete with the fish oils. It can also go with some larger meals, like steaks and other game. But the most classic pairing, for a reason, is pinot and pork. They seem to sing when you enjoy them together. For The Calling Sonoma Coast chardonnay, you can go a few different ways. You can stay with something light and bright, like a fresh tomato and mozzarella salad or ceviche. You can also go with something nice and rich, as the acid will cut through the richness of almost any dish. I love risotto as a go-to. This chardonnay is the perfect blank canvas that pairs well with almost anything.

Wine deliveries became super popular this year. Is The Calling available for online ordering?

Our entire portfolio of wines is available for purchase and home delivery at thecallingwine.com. Our website also offers selections that are not available in stores. [Use code SHIP20 at checkout and you’ll receive $1 ground shipping anywhere in the contiguous U.S.] Lastly, what’s a fun fact about wine that always surprises novices?

One thing I found interesting was that red wine is not red because the grapes are red on the inside. Almost every single wine grape is actually white, and it’s the contact with the skins that stain the wine to make it red. When I tell people who are just getting into wine this, it’s usually one of those aha moments.

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By FREYA DROHAN

FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM

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AN EYE ON FASHION CONTENT PRODUCTION & AMPLIFICATION

imaxtree.com New York London Milano Paris

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AlphabetCITY André Leon Talley

Arielle Charnas

Job title: Influencerturned-enterpreneur Admitted for: Charnas first drew criticism over her bizarre online behavior when she was diagnosed with COVID-19. After throwing caution to the wind and decamping to the Hamptons—avoiding all advised safety protocols—her Something Navy clothing brand was then found to have received a PPP loan for up to $350,000. (The company is reportedly valued at $45 million.) Charnas, continually posting outfit updates featuring Chanel bags and Manolo Blahniks, did little to salvage her relatability.

THE NEW A–LIST Being on the A-list was once as aspirational as it got. But when we combed through 2020’s biggest—and oddest—headlines, we found that many of the key players had names beginning with the initial A. Call it a coincidence, but we couldn’t help ourselves from thinking.…

Meet the members of the new club you do not want to be a part of!

What’s she doing now?

Her Instagram is private— if you’re not already one of her 1.3 million followers.

But adding insult to injury, her random and unexplained appearance on the new Cosmopolitan Mexico cover infuriated the Latinx community.

Job title: Author and former editor at large, Vogue Admitted for: His widely publicized tell-all book, The Chiffon Trenches, about his years at the glossy and his friendship (and subsequent falling out) with Anna Wintour. The scathing attack on his former boss seemed particularly cutthroat, when it’s also alleged that Wintour secured cash from Condé Nast to purchase a house for ALT’s grandma and to admit him to rehab four times for health issues relating to his weight. In subsequent interviews, Talley tried to say that the book was actually a “love letter” to Wintour.

With friends like that, who needs enemies?

By FREYA DROHAN

Adam Rapoport

Prince Andrew

Shubuck, dressed up in brown face resurfaced on Twitter, at the same time as screenshots of an insensitive conversation he had with a Puerto Rican food writer began circulating. The image sparked outrage, but it turned out to be merely the tip of the iceberg. Staff shared accounts of a toxic workplace culture and unfair treatment of BIPOC at the Condé Nast–owned food magazine. With deafening calls for his resignation, Rapoport stepped down in June.

announced that Andrew would permanently resign from all public duties over his ties to the late disgraced financier Jeffrey Epstein.

Ewwww. U.S. authorities also recently filed a mutual legal-assistance request to the U.K. so they could formally interrogate Mr. “I don’t sweat.” Andrew was also notably absent from his daughter Beatrice’s official wedding photos.

Job title: Former Bon Appétit editor in chief Admitted for: A 2004 photo of Rapoport and his wife, Simone

What’s he doing now?

The longtime editor has left social media, but the last thing he said via an Instagram post was that he would “reflect on the work” he “needed to do as a human.” Meanwhile, Bon Appétit has found a new editor in chief in book publishing vet Dawn Davis.

Job title: Duke of York Admitted for: In May, it was

What’s he doing now?

Do we really want to know?

What’s he doing now?

Nursing his wounds?

Gathering material for his next book? Whatever the case, the book was still a best seller and it sure made for a juicy read.

Alison Roman

Job title: Chef, cookbook author, The New York Times contributor Admitted for: In an interview—which ironically was to plug her new collaboration with a lifestyle brand—the culinary world multihyphenate mocked and dismissed Chrissy Teigen and Marie Kondo for creating consumer-goods empires. Teigen said the takedown was a “huge bummer” coming from someone she admired, and the Twitter queen’s followers went to battle for her. Tweets got pretty heated between fans of both personalities, and Teigen even briefly retired from the platform–for one day—to take a breather.

What’s she doing now?

Roman apologized for her “flippant” and “careless” remarks—publicly and privately. Her column in The New York Times was put on ice but is expected to return eventually, according to a rep. In the interim, she set up an online newsletter to share her recipes. The shallot must go on!

But wait! Not all the A’s had a fall from grace. Meet the A+ new additions Job title: “Father, fisherman, motorcycle enthusiast, 56th Governor of New York” Angelic acts: In the grips of the pandemic, Cuomo’s daily dispatches were the sternbut-straight-talking sermons Cuomosexuals turned to. They even led to viral moments, like the Google search, “Does Cuomo have a nipple piercing?” and a Jezebel essay, “Help, I Think I’m In Love With Andrew Cuomo???”

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Aurora James

Anthony Fauci

Vellies founder established the 15 Percent Pledge as a response to Black Lives Matter. The initiative calls on brands to be more inclusive and representative of black Americans—and has already been enacted by Sephora and Rent the Runway. James’ activism led Vogue to put her on its September cover, painted by Jordan Casteel.

National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases Angelic acts: The Brooklyn-born disease expert has been another beacon of hope. His cultural impact has also been mega: merch, memes, a Brad Pitt portrayal on SNL, and a surprise appearance on the cover of InStyle.

Job title: Designer, activist Angelic acts: The Brother

Job title: Director,

Aya Kanai

Job title: Editor in chief, Marie Claire Angelic acts: It’s no mean feat to take the reins of a major mag, let alone with your entire team stuck at home in lockdown.

Props to Kanai for taking to her new role with aplomb and producing stellar issues during this crazy time.

ALL IMAGES COURTESY

Andrew Cuomo

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