The Daily Front Row

the

September 16, 2015

wu’s boss the

the delpozo Movement

Domenico Vacca’s New domain

gold notes From michael kors

13111_FA15_US_SEP16th_DAILY_ROW LHP Trim: 10.75inW x 13.5inH

13111_FA15_US_SEP16th_DAILY_ROW RHP Trim: 10.75inW x 13.5inH

N E W YO R K C H I C AG O B E V E R LY H I L L S PA L M B E AC H A M E R I C A N A M A N H A S S E T M I C H A E L KO R S . C O M

WATER BABY!

COOKIE BREAK! With Lee Daniels

With Anna Dello Russo

How much Carolina Herrera does Cookie have in her wardrobe?

Zero! We started in a place of stolen Vuitton. As she grows, Cookie will understand fashion, which you’ll see this season. She will evolve into Carolina!

Do you know Mrs. Herrera?

I’m directing the Richard Pryor biopic, and she’s going to be styling the costumes. [Notices Penélope Cruz.] Penny!

Penny! Penny!

[Runs over for a hug and a chat.]

YOUR DAILY DOSE

Linda Fargo, Vanessa Friedman

SISTER LOVE!

SCENE

Camila Coelho

CAR TALK!

Would you swim in this water?

No way! It’s a little bit dirty!

How was your summer?

Ah-mazing! This summer was a party summer.

Y You don’t drink, right?

No, and I don’t smoke. I wake up early in the morning.

A Are you boring?

Kind of! I like the energy of the night but never give up on the morning. I do my yoga and swim. It’s an upside-down life.

CAROLINA HERRERA

With Graydon Carter How long did it take you to get uptown from the West Village?

We came from Connecticut, so Penélope Cruz two hours.

What do you do on the weekends there?

Putter around, drive my cars, read, fish, canoe.

How many cars do you have?

I’ve got a few!

Vintage?

Vintage is too polite a word.

☛ Uptown moment! On Monday, Carolina Herrera became the first designer to show a collection at The Frick Collection. There was only one row, so everyone had prime seating.

Penélope Cruz was the event’s hot ticket. ☛ Afterward, le tout dashed downtown for Tommy’s showing at Pier 36. Lily Aldridge opened the affair, which was inspired by the relaxed style of the Caribbean islands that Tommy knows and loves.

Now that’s living! ☛ Later that night, W mag and IMG Models feted the #WMagModelSearch on Instagram at 1 World Trade Center.

Mariah Carey made a surprise appearance, along with a bevy of beauties both established and emerging.

With Bella Hadid

TOMMY HILFIGER

How’d the show go for you?

Honestly, so much fun! We got to be natural and beachy and do our own thing. [Stylist] Karl Templer was amazing.

Did you walk in the water?

It was pretty cold, but kind of refreshing. Once the adrenaline hit, I didn’t even notice.

Were you worried about falling in the water?

No! I know I had my girls around me to grab. If I’m falling, they are going with me.

What’s it like having your sister Gigi backstage with you?

It’s so comforting.

It’s cool to have a buddy there to say, “I’m stressed or I’m worried!

What do I do?” I love being around her.

TOMMY TIME!

With Tommy Hilfiger

Great to see you, Tommy!

The Daily has been so good to us!

Thank you! Let’s

Ajak Deng

Mariah Carey

Devon Windsor

#WMAGMODELSEARCH PARTY Tori Praver

Coco Rocha Soo Joo Park Kelly Osbourne

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Elsa Hosk

Edward Enninful, Riccardo Tisci, Bethann Hardison, Stefano Tonchi, and Afef Jnifen

talk collection.

Island life. What do we want to do with the clothes to make them fun, wearable, and relevant for today. I spent a lot of time in the islands. I love St. Barth’s, Jamaica, Mustique.

All the girls on the island were bohemian, hippie, a ’70s-inspired chic look. They do it in a very eclectic way. I wanted to create that.

Have you ever had water involved in a set before?

No! We had to build a pool. We thought it would be great to have the girls walk through the water.

Did you put your feet in the water?

No! I’ve got my shoes on!

And you had a bar!

We re-created Basil’s Bar in Mustique. Mick Jagger and David Bowie would go there. Basil was in the bar on the set!

BFANYC.COM (25); GETTY IMAGES

S:10.25”

S:13”

Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. ©2015 Maybelline LLC.

Carlyne + Iris, j’adore!

z u z B

DOC TALK, PART ONE!

With Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele

Fix

What’s it like working with Jeremy?

If I didn’t enjoy it, I wouldn’t do it.

Have you seen Jeremy’s new documentary yet?

Not yet, but I’m going to be in it.

How do you feel about seeing yourself on screen?

I hate it.

Jeremy Scott

DOC TALK, PART TWO!

Perez Hilton, Kat Graham

DISCUSS

With Iris Apfel

☛ Inflatable shoes?

Only at Jeremy Scott. The designer unveiled his new collab with Melissa on his runway. HEARD “Do I really have to give his name?”—Linda Fargo, on her current obsession, at Thakoon. ☛ “It’s very practical for me to be here because I’m always going to him, like, ‘I need to borrow something!’ ”—Christina Ricci at Thakoon. ☛ “I’m still upset about John Lennon and Yoko Ono. I was so scarred for life, I never transcended it.”—John Demsey at Michael Kors’ fragrance bash. ☛ “It’s the best food in the world. The chef is outstanding.

It’s such a treat for us. We are really good friends and I always love to see Valentino and Giancarlo [Giammetti]. It was a chill vacation.”—Johannes Huebl, on the scene on Valentino’s yacht, at Maiyet.

Cailli

JEREMY SCOTT

What brings you here?

I wanted to see it, because I don’t know much about him.

Alexis Bittar who I’m here with told me about it and it sounded so exciting. I love Moschino so I wanted to see what he does.

Were you happy with the way your documentary came out?

I had no idea what to expect, because when you work with [the late] Albert Maysles, he doesn’t do a script or an outline or anything.

He just shot whatever he felt like!

LESS IS MORE!

With Lorenzo Martone You wore very little to Marc’s party last week. Is that your typical going-out look?

Usually I wear less! [Laughs] I didn’t have a costume— what can I do?

Where are you living these days?

Between New York and Los Angeles.

I’m a true bi.

What’s new in the bike biz?

For Martone Cycling, we’re preparing a special edition for the Summer Olympics next year!

and Sam Beckerman

Yazz, Tinashe

SWAG PATROL! With Ellen von Unwerth

“I came from Paris. I never miss Jeremy Scott. It’s one of my high points in Fashion Week. It’s fun, it’s colorful, it’s not serious, all the girls look fantastic. It’s playful fantasy…and you get a gift!”

MAN UP!

With Derek Blasberg

MAIYET

Declan Kearney

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Congrats on your new gig at Vanity Fair!

I teased Graydon that after dating for a couple of years, I finally got hitched to Vanity Fair. I’m super excited. It’s one of my favorite magazines.

Your title is “Our Man on the Street”?

Yes. Two other writers there have a similar title—Tom Preston is “Our Man in Kabul,” and Brian McNally is “Our Man in Saigon.” It was amusing that the magazine equates the comings and goings of New York fashion, Hollywood, and society as a beat, as one would with Saigon.

How did Glenda Bailey take your departure?

You should ask Glenda. She’s a fabulous editor and gave me so many opportunities!

RETAILER REPORT!

With Roopal Patel, newly appointed fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue, at Rag & Bone

Congrats on your new role!

It’s a whirlwind, but I’m so excited. I feel the best way to get into this position is to hit the ground running, and what better time to do so than Fashion Week?

What are you loving on the runways?

At Altuzarra, everything felt so effortless and easy and wearable.

I liked Public School’s transformation in women’s as well. Tome brought a new glamorous sensibility, and I really like Jason Wu’s homage to femininity. Rosie Assoulin is always on my radar—she’s one of my favorites.

What are your goals for Saks? Sorry if it’s too early to ask!

Saks is going through a period of change and reinvention. I really want to support emerging talent.

Zanna How did you make the trek out to Roberts Brooklyn tonight?

Rassi I took a car with our president, Marc Metrick, and our chief merchant, Tracy Margolies, and it was actually super pleasurable because we all got to catch up and have a laugh.

BLUE JEAN BABY

Iconic American label Jordache is looking good for its age, with its recent grand entrance into e-commerce and Sarah Jessica Parker as the face (or rather, the legs) of its latest campaign.

Jordache president Liz Berlinger shares how the brand is leveraging its heritage as it moves into the future.

What will we see from Jordache this fall?

The Jordache Look Fall collection will be expanding to include coated denim, leather, new vintageinspired looks and modern fits and fabrics.

How did you choose Sarah Jessica Parker as the face of the new campaign?

We wanted someone who is not only a fashion icon, but also represents the fashion industry. Ms. Parker is a mother, an entrepreneur, and a wellrespected force in fashion.

Tell us about the e-commerce initiative, and plans in that space.

We launched our first e-commerce platform last June with The Jordache Look collection. We have always been in front of customers with marketing, and now we updated this to market it to our consumer through online, e-mails, and social.

What does the future of denim look like?

The future of denim is about new, wider leg shapes, cleaner looks, flares, and new fabric technologies. We think the future lies very much in using the best possible fabrics, so we are constantly perfecting them to produce the best jeans.

Are there any projects in the works?

The Jordache Look collection is going to expand to include men’s and girls’ styles!

We think these are exciting markets for the brand and areas that we have some great ideas for. Stay tuned!

B FA N YC . C O M ( 1 2 ) ; F I R S T V I E W ( 6 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y

F O R T H O S E W I T H A D I S C E R N I N G TA S T E F O R P E R F O R M A N C E A N D S T Y L E .

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z z u B Fix

Eric Johnson, Pamela Drucker Mann Cindy Sherman Emily Mortimer

the

front row

Adam Rapoport, Rachel Comey

Christine Muhlke

Zadie Smith, Rafil Kroll-Zaidi

Tracee Ellis Ross, Sarah Sophie Flicker

Ignacio Mattos

SCENE Guinevere van Seenus

☛ Rachel Comey drew the toast of the fashion, food, and literary worlds to her show/dinner at Pioneer Works.

Presented by Bon Appétit’s Feast or Fashion, the affair featured cuisine by Estela’s Ignacio Mattos. ☛

Miho Hatori, Dustin Yellin

GETTING TO KNOW YOU!

With Leila Yavari, Stylebop fashion director For those who don’t know, what’s Stylebop?

We’re the ultimate destination for online luxury fashion, offering a curated selection of womenswear and menswear.

How long have you been at Stylebop?

Five great years and counting. I joined after a wonderful stint in modeling that followed a detour as a doctoral candidate in political science. That’s another story!

Where are you from originally?

I was born in Tehran, Iran, moved to Bordeaux, France, when I was a toddler, before finally settling in Los Angeles.

Despite the many detours—or perhaps because of them—I consider myself a Cali girl at heart.

What’s your personal style?

I’d say “pared-down plus.” I like to focus on clean, modern pieces that offer the versatility that my schedule demands.

Tailored wide-leg trousers, a Crombie coat, and a cashmere turtleneck are all on heavy rotation, preferably in shades of camel, navy, and cream.

CLOSET CLEAN-OUT!

With Vestiaire contributing fashion director Kate Foley How often do you clean out your closet?

I try to constantly clean it out. Ideally, it would be a one-in, one-out situation!

What have been some of your best finds on Vestiaire Collective?

White leather Céline platforms that I’ve been searching for for years and an amazing Saint Laurent printed floral silk dress.

What’s the most treasured piece you own?

An incredible Thierry Mugler dress which is so beautiful, but I would never wear it. Well, I did wear it once, years ago!

Shoe of the Daily The iconic NUDIST sandal is coveted

by Hollywood A-listers and both the fashion and music industries’ elite: The shoe’s cult-like status inspired designer Stuart Weitzman to create a limited-edition pavé collection featuring six Swarovski crystal–encrusted variations. Available exclusively at the Stuart Weitzman Soho boutique, 118 Spring St., (212) 226-3440, $2,895.

IN THE BAG! With Ella McHugh

Before you designed handbags...

I was a contract lawyer!

Why handbags?

I was always captivated by them.

My grandmother, a renowned opera singer and surgeon, changed her handbag with every outfit.

What inspires the bags’ names?

Important women in my life, like Elizabeth, my mother and an antiques dealer; Lauren, my friend with a Ph.D. in psychology; and Monica, my friend who is a lawyer.

My inspirations for the Art Deco designs are Marlene Dietrich, Jean Harlow, and Dorothy Parker.

What else is unique about them?

They’re made in Italy from the finest leathers and exotic skins, and each has a semiprecious stone and streamlined hardware.

B FA N YC . C O M ( 1 2 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 2 ) ; ALL OTHERS COURTESY

Sun-kissed Skin

The beauty look for Sandy Liang’s Spring 2016 show was centered around a “kissed by the sun” flush, according to makeup artist Dominique Samuel. He used Maybelline New York’s Fit Me! Matte+Poreless Foundation all over the skin before highlighting the T-zone with Dream Lumi Touch Highlighting Concealer.

Samuel then brushed out the brows with the Brow Drama Pro Palette for a youthful, un-tweezed feel.

Brandusa Niro

Editor in Chief, CEO Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Reporter Sydney Sadick Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists Neal Clayton, George Maier Editorial Assistant Kassidy Silva

Mark Tevis Publisher

Fashion & Luxury Goods Director Chloe Worden Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Marketing Director Anna Lombardi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor

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Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

ON THE COVER: FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Jason Wu and Natalie Westling photographed by Giorgio Niro.

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RUNWAY

Spring 2016

TOMMY

HILFIGER That ’70s trend took an island turn chez Tommy, to delicious effect. Inspired by his beloved Caribbean (especially Mustique, whose storied bartender, Basil, set up shop in the middle of the runway), Hilfiger sent out a colorful mash-up of textures, colors, and concepts.

With so many offerings on display, even the most crochetaverse fashionettes will find something to love.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

FIRSTVIEW

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RUNWAY

Spring pring 2016

CAROLINA

HERRERA A fine romance!

Petal pinks were out in full force on Mrs. Herrera’s Spring runway, but the technical fabrics and fuss-free shapes kept the look saccharinefree. The collared tunic and shortish skirt combo is an especially welcome alternative to a daytime suit, while new-shape evening options, notably a cropped tank paired with an ankle-grazing skirt, will make regular rounds on the charity-bash circuit.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

FIRSTVIEW

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RUNWAY

Spring 2016

3.1 PHILLIP

LIM

To toast his 10th anniversary, Phillip Lim dreamed up elaborately constructed tops, statement bottoms, and a collaboration with Maya Lin, who worked on the show’s set. For the most part, it all worked beautifully, especially the printed pants and cropped, wear-everywhere trousers.

THAKOON Thakoon Panichgul merged his contemporary and design lines, and the first offering under the new approach was a bit wobbly.

Jackets, denim, and shirting were perfectly fine, but the printed pieces, this designer’s bread and butter, were as strong as ever.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

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RUNWAY

Spring 2016

THOM

BROWNE Something wickedly chic this way comes...Browne’s focal point, the proverbial pleated skirt, was definitely naughty, but in subversive and spectacular fashion.

The jackets, vests, and ultra-long riffs on shirting were bedazzled in motifs straight out of the Far East, and the Japanese theme continued in the geta-soled shoes.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

RUNWAY

Spring 2016

RAG &

BONE The secret to Marcus Wainwright and David Neville’s success is that they, like few designers, realize that many women work and play with equal vigor. Their Spring collection had plenty of ideas for both, including a winning sweaterdress (expect an immediate sellout), midlength knit skirts, and endless jacket varieties.

What’s wrong with one-stop shopping?

BROCK Despite Brock’s overall covered aesthetic, there’s nothing particularly buttonedup about the young brand’s attitude. For husband-andwife team Kris Brock and Laura Vassar, femininity means loose shirting, voluminous dresses, and the occasional pencil skirt.

Beauty

TREND

{Porcelain Skin}

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BROWNE/RAG & BONE: FIRSTVIEW; BROCK: COURTESY

BOSS MAN

After revolutionizing the look of Hugo Boss’ womenswear, Jason Wu’s vision grows stronger by the season. The designer explains his grand plan.

BY ASHLEY BAKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

Prior to working at Hugo Boss, what were your impressions of the brand?

I grew up wearing Hugo Boss suits, so the idea of Boss’ really strong menswear with very precise tailoring made a big impression.

Who approached you for the position?

A headhunter! At the time, I wasn’t super clear about what the company was doing with the womenswear, but Christoph Auhagen, the chief brand officer who is now my boss, really sold me on his vision. Once I got the picture of how we could make womenswear an even bigger part of the business, I was really excited.

Sales are up considerably, no?

I’m not supposed to comment on that. Double-digit growth, for sure, and the business was already big. On that scale, especially, it’s great.

Your first show made quite a splash. What was your vision?

At the time, Boss womenswear was not really recognized on a map per se from the editors’ point of view, and probably, to a certain degree, it wasn’t very familiar to consumers as well. It’s been around for about 10 years, but the company has been around for 90 years. My vision was to assert a point of view in a crowded womenswear market. It was important to have a strong menswear DNA, and to focus on tailoring, which is what the brand is best known for. A lot of the looks almost came from menswear, but they were feminized, and done in smaller proportions. We had to establish who the Hugo Boss woman is, exactly. Having Edie Campbell on exclusive for the first season was really important for me, because I thought she embodied that modern woman who feels quintessentially Boss. So much so that I brought her back again for the campaign.

When were you first struck by the power of the brand?

When I went to the campus in Metzingen. We have our own coffee shop there! [Laughs] Hugo Boss has incredible scale, not only in fashion but in art, architecture, and sports. The brand dresses the entire German football team, who won the World Cup, things like that. I’m really taking advantage of all the company’s activities to tell the story.

What’s the campus like?

It’s suburban—very green and picturesque. Driving there from the airport, it’s just fields and fields of green. And when you arrive at Boss, it’s a metropolis of glass buildings, with perfectly manicured land. It’s really incredible. A lot of the inspiration for my first collections came from the campus, and that juxtaposition between nature and architecture. Do you know that movie Gattaca? That’s what I think it looks like. All of the men dress in suits.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

What do you wear when you go there?

This [points to his jeans and navy blue shirt]. I’m the only one who’s casual.

I’m bringing American sportswear to Germany. [Laughs] No, seriously—the guys I work with wear very sharp suits, and the hair is all done.

How are you perceived in Germany?

As a designer, and with my appointment at Hugo Boss, my name has become increasingly recognized. This was, and still is, a big opportunity for me to design differently. I’m known as a very, very feminine designer, and not to say what I’m doing here isn’t feminine, but it’s a different approach— more restrained, more strict. It’s very different from the way I was perceived before, and it’s fun to be two different people sometimes.

You’ve become even more involved in the visual merchandising.

At the campus in Metzingen, there’s a shop I can build out. As a child in the ’90s, I loved to make fake shops, so to be able to merchandise a store in a very real way is massive. Last year, I spent a lot of time translating the new vision into everything else—the stores, the mannequins, the way the brand is presented. I also worked on other categories, such as sunglasses and watches, and I’ve been working on fragrance.

What was it like to create a fragrance?

I worked with a “nose” and started by smelling a bunch of different options.

The smallest details can change the entire juice. Creating the bottle is a lot of fun, because the bottle tells the whole story, even before you get around to smelling it.

With power comes responsibility, and a lot of people pay attention to Hugo Boss’ numbers. Does that give you anxiety?

No. The commerce side is important, and it does place pressure, but I’m really used to that—I’ve had my own business for the past eight years, so I’m comfortable with expectations. I try not to think too much about it and concentrate on the design vision.

How do you divide your time?

I’m back and forth between the Jason Wu studio and my Hugo Boss studio— they’re right down the street from each other. Here, at my design studio, is our think tank—a mini lab where we work on ideas. The team here works closely with my design team in Germany, and I go to Germany once a month. My mornings start as soon as I get up—there are e-mails coming in beginning at 7 a.m., and everything is urgent.

Do you wake up early?

Now I do. I wasn’t an early morning person, but this job has given me two things—now, I’m fully alert by 7, because in Europe, it’s already late in the day. I work until at least 1 a.m. every day.

“

The commerce side is important, and it does place pressure, but I’m really used to that—I’ve had my own business for the past eight years, so I’m comfortable with expectations.”

Natalie Westling in Spring 2016. Hair by Rutger; makeup by Makky P.

“

Are you chronically exhausted?

No! I’m chronically energetic. I’m hyper like that.

How many iced coffees do you drink a day?

Three.

Not bad. What kind of celebrities do you want to dress in Hugo Boss?

For me, it’s really about working with people who are on top of their game. In the front row of my first show, we had Gwyneth Paltrow, Diane Kruger, and Reese Witherspoon. Reese is a friend—I worked with her for a long time with my own brand—so I called her and invited her. It was her first fashion show! Diane is another one of my longtime collaborators, and she’s German, which is quite perfect. Last season, we had Dakota Johnson and Julianne Moore. Theo James was the first guy I brought over to the brand, and he’s going to be the next big male superstar. He looks incredible, and he’s so charismatic— really cool and talented.

Natasha Poly is starring in your fragrance campaign.

How involved are you in that part of the business?

Very. It was my first collaboration with Mert & Marcus, and the idea was to create something very sensual, but with the polish that an international fragrance campaign needs. The amber tone gave it a certain warmth.

You also collaborated with Darren Aronofsky on a short film about

the fragrance.

That was a dream come true—really fun, and very collaborative from beginning to end.

What’s your big push in accessories?

The Bespoke bag. It has the technical, industrial look I’ve really been working on, but it’s elegant and feminine. The idea of a lock was inspired by a cuff from the menswear archive, and that was our starting point.

What does the Boss woman carry in her handbag?

A lipstick, a good book, our fragrance, obviously, and at least two phones.

Are you still using two phones?

Of course. One is for Boss, and the other has “JW” on the back.

One for each pocket!

No, I’m always holding both of them. It’s like I’m constantly shuffling cards.

So how are you relaxing?

I’m lucky—I know a lot of people say that—but I like to do a lot of things. I’m not good at relaxing. Staying on the beach is really difficult for me. But I did stay home all day on Sunday and watched America’s Got Talent!

As of last summer, you were still living in the same apartment you’ve had since you moved to the city. Any plans to upgrade?

I just moved downtown! But I’m still keeping that apartment—it’s been my good luck charm.

When you arrive at Boss, it’s a metropolis of glass buildings, with perfectly manicured land.

It’s really incredible.”

“

She is a global woman, with no specific age or nationality.�

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

COLOR ARCHITECT

Trained in couture with a background in architecture and an incredible eye for color, Josep Font has been putting Delpozo on the fashion map since he was tapped to revive the Spanish label in 2012. Experiencing the clothes in person, one is struck by the enormous amount of detail, precision, and luxury fabrication in each piece. Font fills us in on what inspires his vivid designs. BY PAIGE REDDINGER You started out as an architect. How did you end up in fashion?

Since I was a child, I’ve always been intrigued by fashion. However, I decided to train in architecture, as it was a more formal and traditional study, which I don’t regret at all since it brought me a broader insight into proportion, shape, and volume, which I apply in all my collections. During that period, I started to take design courses, and I participated in a competition in Paris. Winning the Air France Mode Prix made me finally realize that fashion was my path to follow.

When and where did you learn how to make couture?

I’ve always been very fond of the Spanish traditional craftsmanship, paying attention to every detail, and using delicate techniques to create beautiful pieces.

I was honored to be invited by the Chambre Syndicale in Paris to show during four collections at Paris Haute Couture, which was where I truly learned the tradition and savoir faire of couture.

What are some of your earliest fashion memories?

My mother used to take me shopping with her when I was a child, and she always asked for my opinion when she was trying on clothes.

Who are your fashion icons or mentors?

Pedro Rodríguez and Balenciaga are my main references in design. They have inspired me a lot and I respect their work very much. I personally admire Jean Seberg—I love her indecency and modernity.

How were you enticed to work for Delpozo?

I was in China when Perfumes & Diseño approached me with the project, and the entire idea of Delpozo fascinated me. My intention was, and is, to offer a fresh and modern vision with respect toward the legacy of the house. We’re starting a new chapter for the brand with a new language. Since the beginning, they have given me the freedom to create a new brand from a renowned fashion house with a 40-year history in Spain.

What can we expect from this season’s collection?

Delpozo Spring/Summer 2016 collection is a fusion between García Lorca’s fearless, fiery women of the South and Gustav Klimt’s young lover and muse, Emilie Flöge, of the North. We reimagine a modern woman through prints, and delicate fringes and ruffles of various sizes. Inspired by the bohemian ease of Flöge, who discarded the corset in favor of a relaxed silhouette, there is an organic volume in the shape of circles found in skirts and sleeves. The tailoring, proportion, textures, and details such as hand-crocheted raffia flowers evoke Flöge’s passion for folklore, yet are reimagined in a fresh way through the skills of the Delpozo atelier.

How does your Spanish heritage influence your designs?

In Spain, there is a strong tradition of craftsmanship and a know-how in time-honored techniques, so of course Delpozo feeds on the Spanish culture in this aspect, but many of my inspirations for my collections come from art, painters, or artistic movements from across the globe. I think and work in a very global way, and of course Spain is within me. I’m from here, but I like to look at other places for references.

Why did you initially decide to show in New York and not Europe when you came on board as creative director?

We chose NYFW as we felt the city was the place to show Delpozo—modern and sophisticated. From the start, we knew it was the place to be and where we had to introduce Delpozo globally. New York is a window to the world and a great place to showcase our collections.

You are known for your use of color. Did you always have an eye for it?

Color is very important for me. We do color research before starting a new collection. For example, our Fall/Winter 2015 collection took the colorful palette of Australian artist Rhys Lee as inspiration. It is an element that also helps create visual volume

and identity.

What is your design process?

My starting point for each season is a recent exhibition I visited, a trip I took, or a book I read, and several ideas start circling in my mind. My team and I research the concepts or elements in more depth, and the strong focal points start to surface. I try to fuse them and combine them in a way that is unexpected, yet wearable. Then we begin a big research period involving colors, shapes, textures, and fabrics, in order to create the new collection.

You recently created an exclusive capsule collection for Net-A-Porter. Are exclusives for online retailers becoming de rigueur?

We had this great opportunity to collaborate on a unique project with Net-APorter, and it was a very natural process, as we’ve been partners since our first collection we showed in Madrid. We are very happy with the outcome. I feel a brand needs to offer product that speaks to the customers, and I feel that clients are asking for more unique pieces, which capsule collections are all about.

The hats from your Fall collection were particularly fun. What inspired those?

The entire Fall/Winter 2015 collection was inspired by Rhys Lee and Russian painter Andrey Remnev’s modern interpretation of the Pre-Raphaelite spirit.

Color and texture played a signature role this season, and I wanted to create something that was feminine yet strong. It wasn’t a bow shape, but more like a knot that gave that fresh spin on a traditional headpiece.

Why did you open a store in Miami instead of New York?

The brand wanted to find a space where it could offer a shopping experience in line with its image and positioning that would satisfy clients in the United States as well as South America. It’s a destination hub that mixes all types of customers, and we felt that is part of what Delpozo stands for.

When can we expect a New York store?

New York is of course on our mind and will be in the near future. Now, we have entered key markets such as Europe, the Middle East, and Asia and this will continue to be our main objective: to establish our position in a global market.

What kind of women wear Delpozo? How would you describe your clientele?

She is a global woman, with no specific age or nationality—she has a certain attitude toward life and fashion. She knows what she wants, she is confident, and fashion is a way for her personal expression.

Who have been some of your biggest supporters?

We’ve felt very welcomed both by retailers and the press, and we are very happy that they understand what we want to become. Actresses like Julianne Moore, Cate Blanchett, Keira Knightley, and Kiernan Shipka have supported us as well, which is amazing.

Who was the first celebrity to wear the brand?

One of the first actresses to wear our brand was Kate Mara, who accompanied me to the Met Gala two years ago. We’ve dressed several celebrities before, but that appearance was very important for us, just two months after we presented our first collection in NYC. How do you celebrate or unwind after you’ve shown a collection?

We celebrate, all the team together, with a big lunch after the show, but we don’t have very much time as we usually have already started to prepare the next collection. Now that we are making pre-collections, our time is even more limited.

What are your passions outside of your job?

I like to browse furniture stores, art galleries, and ballet exhibitions, and on the weekends I try to go to the countryside, where I truly relax, anytime I can.

What is your favorite movie?

Any of Jacques Demy’s.

What is the last great book you read?

Le Rouge et le Noir, the Stendhal novel.

GETTY IMAGES

LUXE LIVING Domenico Vacca has long been known as an expert tailor of men’s and women’s suiting and shirts on Fifth Avenue, but now the brand with Italian roots is moving into a massive new space on Fifth and 55th that will not only be home to its new retail space, but also to a very exclusive members-only club, 35 residences, a barbershop, and a hair salon, with even more in the works.

Domenico Vacca fills us in on the grand new venture and what we can expect when it opens this fall.

BY PAIGE REDDINGER

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

What made you want to take on a venture of this magnitude, to turn Domenico Vacca into a full lifestyle brand?

We had been in 10 stores around the world and in New York on Fifth Avenue between 59th and 60th for 13 years and our lease was coming to an end very soon. I always had this idea in my mind for the last few years of doing a concept store, a private membership-only club, and a residency hotel. We have been expanding the offering of the brand to become more of a lifestyle brand. We launched watches, crystals, and stemware two years ago, and now with the opening of the new store we are launching a fragrance collection, a tableware collection, and an eyewear collection. The opportunity became available on 55th Street. In the beginning, I was just looking at the retail space on the ground floor and the first floor, but we found that they were open to the idea of rebranding the whole building. The ground floor and the first floor will be retail but also house a private club, a café, a barbershop, and a hair salon, and on the lower level there will be our headquarters plus a photo studio for our photo shoots and a tailoring room for all the alterations. Then there will be eight floors of the residency with 35 suites, and the rooftop is another space that we are actually attaching to the private club.

Why did you choose this location?

If you start from Park Avenue on the corner, you have the Ferrari shop, and if you keep going up you have Michael’s restaurant, which is an institution.

Vivienne Westwood is also opening on 55th Street, and Ralph Lauren opened the Polo Bar, and on the corner of 55th and Fifth they have their store. Then you have The Peninsula and The St. Regis. We are in the middle of the action.

Are the residences for ownership or rental?

It’s more like a long-term-stay residency with a minimum of 30 days. Every

suite has its own kitchen and everything you need in an apartment. Plus, it will be fully furnished and decorated by us.

You were personally involved in the design and decoration. Has that always been a passion?

Yes, absolutely. We had always been decorating homes in a discreet way for some of our clients. The point is, when a client loves the brand and the sense of style and the taste of the brand, it not only relates to clothes but pretty much everything. I decorated not only the store but all of the common areas plus the residences because we thought that everything had to be tied together in terms of look and style. Even the furniture in the store has been designed by me from scratch.

How much will the residences cost?

We don’t know yet, because we are still completing them, but it will definitely be competitive. If you are moving to New York and you don’t have a house right away, you don’t want to stay in a hotel for a month—that would be really expensive. And you don’t want to rent an apartment for a year minimum, so this offers flexibility. Also some of our clients are from outside the United States, from places such as the Middle East. When they come to New York they really come with a lot of people and stay for a month or two months, so this could be a very good alternative to a hotel. If you go to a hotel, you don’t feel like you are living in a home, but here you will have the feel that you are in an apartment. There will be a concierge service and a house car with a chauffeur at your disposal. If you are staying in the apartment, then automatically for the period of the stay you will have access to the private club, so there are a number of benefits that other buildings are not offering right now.

Tell us a little about what the club will entail.

We’re calling it the DV Club. We have a lot of clients who travel a lot, entertain clients, go out at night, and sometimes go to lounges or clubs. Clubs are very commercial in New York right now, meaning you need a minimum of two to three bottles if you want to have a nice table, and then you have the promoters. I had a lot of my friends and clients tell me that they were missing a high-end club in New York where everything is based on customer service, not on how many bottles you buy. Here you can come with your guests and enjoy a drink or light food or live entertainment and be in the same place with other successful individuals. We charge a fee for the year and the fee gives you and three guests access to the club anytime you want. The bar will be open from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m., each client can bring three guests, and you will have access to the free open bar with anything you want. We’re really putting together an amazing bar. We’re also going to have a live music schedule.

What is the membership fee for the year?

It is $20,000. How much would it cost for one night to go to a club with three guests? Here you pay one fee for the year and you never have to worry about your tab again.

The idea is to keep members and their friends engaged with wine tastings, tequila tastings, live music and book presentations, and everything else that we think will be appreciated by our members. Plus, when it’s your birthday, on whichever day works for you, you can bring

“

up to 20 guests and we’ll take care of you. My point is to eliminate all the nonsense of the regular clubs and just give a lot to the members in terms of customer service.

How many members will you allow?

We are going to stop the membership at 500 because we want our team at the club to know every single member—what they like, what they drink. That way we will be able to get them their drink as soon as they sit down or walk into the club.

You are also going to have a barbershop and a hair salon.

We are doing a café, a barbershop, and a hair salon in the store. The barbershop and hair salon will overlook the first floor. The café is on the ground floor of the store because we want people to be able to get a cappuccino while they are surrounded by beautiful clothes. What is the future of retail? Where are we going with the pure brick and mortar of retail in 2015? Is it just going to be flagship stores for advertising, or are they going to generate income? People can go online and buy anything they want right now.

It’s about giving the client an experience.

You have a lot planned for this space!

You have to also know that we have the building next door, so there is a chance that we will double up in space.

Wow! This is quite the investment that you have made.

But you know, we had the store that was 800 square feet on Fifth Avenue for 13 years and the people that knew about quality and luxury, they have always been our clients. Now we would like to expand that and branch out with other products and bring in other people. If I’m going to be in this market for another 10 to 15 years, then I’m ready to do a big project. We have the followers, the collection, and the concepts to do so.

Is it safe to say that we can expect some high-profile and celebrity clientele to be hanging out in the new establishment?

Totally. Besides our clothing line, we do a lot with movies. I did 50 movies in the last 10 years. We dressed Denzel Washington head-to-toe for American Gangster, and everyone from Terrence Howard in Empire to Jeremy Piven in Entourage, plus Glenn Close in Damages and many other men and women in tons of movies. We dressed Daniel Day-Lewis for the Oscars when he won for Lincoln. We dress an average of 10 people for each Oscars and Golden Globes.

When I talked to them about this project, from the very beginning they were really excited about it, especially the celebrities who are not out there in the tabloid magazines all the time, to have a place where they can come and hang out and have a drink if they want. We also have a lot of friends who are performing artists and they are really excited. They are actually telling us which instruments we should buy, which amps, and which guitars. We want to create that casual atmosphere where if someone wants to play guitar while sitting on the sofa we will go grab them one to play. We want to create that feel, that atmosphere, that ambience.

Do you have an actual opening date?

We are shooting for mid-October. We want to at least have a few weeks to make sure that everything is perfect.

It will be fun, it will be an experience—that’s what we want to do!

People can go online and buy anything they want right now. It’s about giving the client an experience.”

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Kelly sweater

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Dayna dress

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Alexandra dress

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SPIN CITY!

FILM FEST!

With Alexandra Richards

With Kate Upton

Where’s your dream venue to spin at?

On a beach. I did that a couple of years ago in Uruguay and it was just to die for.

What do you love most about Michael Kors?

Besides him, because he’s just so amazing, he just knows how to make you feel good in everything that you wear. And I love those long camel jackets.

Are you into gold or silver?

Gold, and not just because of the party! As a kid, I was allergic to silver, so I ended up having to wear a lot of gold.

What smell do you love the most?

Amber.

What are you obsessed with right now?

Gardening in Brooklyn.

What have you been up to lately?

I just finished filming The Layover.

What do you love most about Michael Kors?

He has the perfect collections for everyday life.

Are you into gold or silver?

Gold. I like to win!

What are you obsessed with right now?

My dog, Harley.

Do you remember one of your first NYFW moments?

I don’t. Is that bad?

Constance Jablonski

CITY SLICKER!

With Halston Sage How’s it going?

Great! I’ve been going to a lot of shows and eating a lot of food.

You get a little something different at each one. And New York is awesome.

Are you into gold or silver?

It depends on the night, but I do really love gold. Maybe it’s because I’m blonde.

What’s your favorite smell?

The smell of fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies.

What are you obsessed with right now?

New York! I want to move here. I love being able to walk everywhere and I love the energy. I feel it right when I walk off the plane.

Michael and I shot for Elle the other day.

We had a great time on set.

Usually I’m the model and he’s the designer, but this time we both modeled, and I loved that!

—ALESSANDRA AMBROSIO

Duran Duran Michael is an American institution! I love that he’s classic, modern, chic, and clean while edgy at the same time.

He encapsulates everything for the modern woman.

—JAIME KING

KORS

GOES FOR THE GOLD! When Michael Kors and Estée Lauder take over The Top of the Standard, greatness is likely to happen. On Sunday night, the brands toasted the launch of the Gold fragrance collection, three new scents that were designed to reflect the metal’s opulence and luxury. Music from DJ Harley Viera-Newton kept the crowds dancing…but when Duran Duran showed up, well, things really got raucous.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

FOOD BREAK!

With Nina Agdal

What do you love most about Michael?

The simplicity and elegance of his designs.

Gold or silver?

Gold. It fits me better.

What are you obsessed with right now?

Food—specifically fried rice.

Hailee Steinfeld

B FA N YC . C O M ( 1 1 ) ; GETTY IMAGES

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