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slug Slug coterie directory inside
Chic marathon! home run
for designers, retailers, and brands!
plus!
* Italian Magic * Tahari’s 45th * NickY Hilton’s Ultra Feminine Shoe Collab * Ramy Brook’s Moment!
gutter credit
nyfw x coterie=
F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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NEW
BROW FAST SCULPT
Gel Mascara Tinted gel. Mini sculpting brush. Color, tame and shape for a natural brow look. 8 shades.
Before
After
For a look like Estelle’s, try Deep Brown. ©2020 Maybelline LLC.
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Italian style There’s
ing n ot h e it! lik
@COTERIE
ADESI CASHMERE 6530 AMINA RUBINACCI 6532 ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ 6538 ANGIOLO FRASCONI 7166 ANTURA ACCESSORI 6965 ARENA COUTURE 6435 ARTICO 6542 BEBA GIOIELLI bijoux 6977 BESSI 6529 BIANCALANCIA 6543 BUN 6546
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CALIBAN 6741 CARDITOSALE 7074 CASA DREE SALAI 6436 ELISA CAVALETTI 6822 FEMÌ 6543 FERRUCCIO VECCHI 7215 Kimonorain 6440 KNIIT MILANO 6441 LAFABBRI 7165 LANDI 6543 LE SARTE PETTEGOLE 6741 MARANT BAGS 7169 MAURIZIO MASSIMINO 6432
MELA 7155 MUSETTI 6551 PLOUMANAC’H 6833 PUNTOVITA & ARSENICE 7153 REINHALD PLANK 6439 SHE’S SO 6543 SUPREMA 6539 VLT’S BY VALENTINA'S 6543 XACUS 6539 YC (WHYCI) MILANO 6531
@EDIT
ALPHA STUDIO 6265 AMA PURE 6368 ANNA SERAVALLI 6242 BAGUTTA 6327 CABAN ROMANTIC 6337 CLAUDIO CUTuLI 6339 DE SANTIS BY MARTIN ALVAREZ 6251 DI BELLO by FONTANI 6337 GISELLA M 6344 HUBERT GASSER 6330
LE PIACENTINI 6333 LIVIANA CONTI 6243 MELAROSA 6342 NATYOURAL 6244 NUMERO 8 6341 ROBERT FRIEDMAN 6329 ROBERTA GANDOLFI 6269 ROSSO35 6326 SEVENTY VENEZIA 6322 SHAFT JEANS 6230 twinset milano 6323
@footwear
DONNA CAROLINA 108 NIS 118 PAS DE ROUGE 121 THIERRY RABOTIN 223
VOILE BLANCHE 100
ITALIAN TRADE COMMISSION 6437
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Italy@NYC
February 11–13, 2020 Jacob K. Javits Center Fall/Winter 2020
@ExtraItaStyle #ExtraordinaryItalianStyle
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LEGENDARY STYLE SINCE 1889
Find a salon at Moroccanoil.com Bluemercury, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Sephora & Luxury Resorts
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TIME TO
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ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y
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Chic
moments
Charlotte D’Alessio
Jane Motion and Sydney Silverman
Influencer Invasion! Photography by Hannah Turner-Harts and Andrew Werner
Charles Manning and Nikki Klarberg-Schneider
Sarah Chiwaya
Cezur III
Idalia Salsamendi
On Saturday night, The Daily and Lee hosted a party to celebrate the fashion industry’s top influencers at Fleur Room on the 35th floor of the Moxy hotel in Chelsea, with chicsters like Jessica Wang, Victoria Brito, Mariah Strongin, Keytt and Alex Lundqvist, Sophie Sumner, Marc Bouwer, Shannon Mcnulty, Grace Atwood, Jimmy Pezzino, Michelle Blashka, Josh Knight and Willow Hand, Garrett Swann, Tania Cascilla, Sophie Bickley, and Ashley Haas. Illustrator Justin Teodoro was on hand to draw Lee-themed portraits of guests, who sipped cocktails courtesy of Casamigos and Bib & Tucker Bourbon. Bumble set up a fun photo booth with giant puffy yellow jackets, boxing gloves, and baseball caps for playing dress-up, while champagne was served in matching yellow flutes. DJ Isaac Hindin-Miller (aka Isaac Likes) played a fantastic set that kept everyone in high spirits as they posed for photos on the step-and-repeat and took in fantastic city views. At the end of the night, guests took home Lee and The Daily co-branded gift bags filled with goodies from Lee, Bumble, Saint New York’s all-natural deodorant, and, of course, the latest issue of The Daily. There was also a giant trunk filled with products from Kérastase’s new Genesis collection and pink Daily beanies for all!
Sophie Sumner
Shannon McNulty Josh Knight and Willow Hand
Special thanks to our incredible partners! Lee, Kérastase, Bumble, Sunglass Hut, Fleur Room, Bib & Tucker, and Casamigos, who helped us make this event such a success.
Krystal Bick, Serena Goh, Grace Atwood, and Alexandra Pereira
F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Javvy, Gretchen Maull, and Krystal Bick
Justin Teodoro
Emily Men, Jessica Wang, and Alexandra Dieck Paola Guida and Donatella Rosso
Sarah Bryant
Heather Caldwell
Bennett Chin and Garrett Swann
Victoria Brito
Name Here
Ashley Hass
Alex Lundqvist and Eddie Roche
DJ Isaac Likes
Anthony Flora Mariah Strongin
Keytt and Alex Lundqvist FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M
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Chic
moments
Guests feasted on Petrossian Caviar on ice (sculptures)
Mariah Strongin
Chiara Mecozzi
Dajia Wilson
Winter Wonderland!
Precious Lee
Eddie Roche and Kelsey Elliott
Ultimate merriment, thanks to caviar, ice sculptures, live art, zodiac wisdom, and a dose of holiday do-good. Photography by hannah turner-harts Francesca Vuillemin
John Paul Jones Natalie and Dylana Suarez
Lauren Layne and Pritika Swarup
special thanks to‌ BCBGMAXAZRIA, Timo Weiland, Petrossian Caviar, Chiara Mecozzi, and Francesca Vuillemin
Tijana Ibrahimovic
DJ Timo Weiland
Alex and Keytt Lundqvist gutter credit
Lilliana Vazquez
BCBGMAXAZRIA welcomed The Daily and a bevy of chicsters into its gorgeous Fifth Avenue store for a festive holiday party hosted by Lilliana Vazquez. Notables like Mariah Strongin, Sophie Sumner, Precious Lee, Natalie and Dylana Suarez, Mary Leest, Alina Baikova, Charlotte and Sophie Bickley, Steven Beltrani, Pritika Swarup, Afiya Bennett, and Matthew Sinnaeve sipped cocktails while dancing to music provided by Timo Weiland. Some even curled up on a velvet sofa to get astrological readings from Francesca Vuillemin. Upstairs, artist Chiara Mecozzi was hard at work creating an original painting based on a BCBG lookbook image. In addition, BCBGMAXAZRIA partnered with One Warm Coat, a national nonprofit organization that works to provide a free, warm coat to any person in need. Guests were encouraged to bring in a new or gently used coat to donate. In return, BCBGMAXAZRIA offered them 20 percent off their purchase. Many people were eager to help out, including Alex and Keytt Lundqvist, who arrived with a huge bag of coats to donate!
F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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@RAMYBROOK
It’s a selfie party with Karlie!
TORY BURCH Cheer's Gabi Butler and Lexi Brumback with Karlie Kloss
With Tory Burch
How will you celebrate post-show? We always go to Indochine! What do you order? Everything!
BIG GIG ALERT!
With Larsen Thompson
What’s new? I’ve been traveling a lot with Pandora. We just shot most of our campaign in Thailand. We’re going to London in March. I have a campaign I just did, but I’m not allowed to say. I’ll whisper in your ear. [Whispers] Major! I know!
ETERNAL YOUTH!
With Liya Kebede
You look great! What’s your secret? I don’t have any magic answer to that. I think I go to sleep early. It helps a little. How does it feel to be walking with a new generation of women? It’s odd! They’re so young. I can’t believe how young I was. Oh, my God, was I that young?
daily double
Rebecca Minkoff
Joanna Gaines
scene
With emily didonato
You’re in the final stretch, chéris!... Brandon Maxwell hit the UWS for his show at the American Museum of Natural History. His final look was made for an upcoming exhibition at the museum… The Blonds had to go against the Oscars on Sunday... Babyghost designer Joshua Huppert is on Amazon’s Making the Cut, with hosts Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn and judges Naomi Campbell, Carine Roitfeld, and Joseph Altuzarra, debuting March 27... Delilah Belle Hamlin at Dennis Basso’s show: “I’m 21. When I get ID’d, people are shocked. At least I’m gonna age well.” Hamlin’s mom, Lisa Rinna: “I heard that!” Plus: Rinna’s Lips line drops in September!
With Joy Corrigan
Do you follow the British royals? I don’t. But I feel like America’s royals are the Baldwins and the Kardashians. Do you like rock ’n’ roll? I’m more into hip-hop, but I love old school rock, like the Ramones. I love rock ’n’ roll T-shirts, even if I don’t know the bands.
BAZAAR PREDICTIONS! jason wu
With George Wayne
What’s new? I’m doing a podcast for Spotify and iHeartRadio, with guests like The NY Times’ Ben Widdicome and Candace Bushnell! Will you chat with Graydon Carter? I’m gonna do GC! Don’t you worry! What do you want to ask Graydon that you’ve never asked before? Were you and Anna really friends or frenemies?
PROMOTION
BEACH BABE Rebecca Minkoff’s latest collection had a bohemian vibe that was perfect for any beach getaway. Lead artist for Maybelline New York, Grace Lee, pulled that inspiration for a sun-kissed healthy glow. The flawless complexion was paired with a colorful shimmery bronze eye, plus ultra-lush lashes. “You can sheer out the shadow or build it up for an even bolder and brighter look,” she said.
BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Dream Radiant Liquid Medium Coverage Hydrating Foundation, $12.99; TattooStudio Sharpenable Gel Pencil, $7.99; both maybelline.com
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State of NY(FW)
As many brands show elsewhere— or nowhere—an NYFW OG speaks out. “I spent 19 years keeping FW together and relevant… it pains me to keep seeing it unravel,” Fern Mallis tweeted. “These issues have been voiced every season for years and everyone loves writing about the demise of NYFW…yet very little ever changes. This industry is too important to dismiss.” Also: Tom Ford got flack for his L.A. show because he’s CFDA chairman, though the org’s CEO and president Steven Kolb came to Ford’s defense.
ROCK out!
DIGGING DEEP!
When was the last time you were at the Museum of Natural History? Actually, not that long ago. My husband’s holiday party was here! It’s one of my favorite museums. I love the giant whale. When’s the last time you had your photo taken with a bear? Never!
PRO TIP: Apply multiple coats of mascara on the top and bottom lashes, then pinch a few for a “spiky” effect.
Everyone’s staying mum about Glenda’s next in line at Harper’s Bazaar. But our front-row friends tell us these are the most and least likely contenders…
WSJ.’s Kristina O’Neill: Happy right where she is. Not happening. VF ALUM JESSICA DIEHL: Beloved, experienced, and capable. Possible. BAZAAR’s Kerry Pieri: Given Hearst’s digital focus, quite possible they’ll promote her to helm print. InStyle’s Laura Brown: Seems totally happy at InStyle. Rumored, but we’re not feeling it. WSJ.’s Elisa LipskyKarasz: Bazaar alum; started as Glenda’s assistant! Certainly qualified, and probably ready, for a new role after eight years at WSJ. Artificial Intelligence: Perhaps computer science should take over for Glenda, and let us know who and what will sell.
getty images (7); patrickmcmullan.com (6); kevin tachman courtesy brandon maxwell (5); dan and corina lecca/courtesy tory burch (4); COURTESY HGTV (1); shutterstock (1); all others courtesy
let’s party!
ANIMAL INSTINCTS!
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Rumor Alert!
Coco Rocha
With InStyle’s Laura Brown
TEEN TRUTHS!
This collection channels the ’70s. How much do you know about the decade? Not a lot! I’m still young. I was born in 2003. People get shocked when I say that. I’m gonna faint! You’re 16. Is being a teen today fun? It is. I can’t speak for all of Gen Z, but we’re unapologetically ourselves. I thankfully have a platform to express myself; people accept me for who I am. What are you working on these days? I have a movie coming out, The Invisible Man, with Elisabeth Moss, and we start [filming] Euphoria Season 2 soon. I also have my own production company. At 16? Wow! What’s it been like to work on Euphoria? I’m grateful to be a part of a show that invokes hard conversations bridging the disconnect between adults and younger people. It isn’t just entertainment.
They say a photo is worth a thousand words. During the social season, it’s critical to get the shot just right. After all, the island of Palm Beach is your runway, chéris! When you’re considering the perfect spot to capture your chicest ensemble, head to the Living Wall at the Esplanade Palm Beach (150 Worth Avenue) to blend in or stand out as much as you’d like. It’s the new Palm Beach camo moment. You like? Pop up to visit us at our Daily Palm Beach HQ while you’re there, for a glass (or two) of rosé, and some chic intel on what to scoop up from Alessandro Michele’s latest and such. Afterward, lunch at The Colony, please! xoxo, The Daily
What’s new at InStyle? We just broke our Shalom Harlow cover. She’s the one I always wanted. I knew her years ago; obviously, she’s taken a long break to care for her health. I e-mailed her agent, then slipped into her DMs on Insta. She’s such a models’ model. When I think about her modeling, I turn into an 8 year old. I was at the McQueen show where she was painted. InStyle is celebrating real women doing real things. I’m proud of that! Who should succeed Glenda at Bazaar? I won’t say it out loud, but I have opinions, which I’ve sent over to the Tower. I hope it’s someone great. I want Bazaar to be great. It’s my alma mater. I was there for 11 years. I’m invested in it!
SKIN SAVIORS!
With Grown Alchemist co-founder, Jeremy Muijs How was Grown Alchemist born? After many years as product and brand development consultants, Keston [Muijs] and I moved into skincare’s natural side. We tested natural ingredients in clinical trials and saw a dramatic improvement in skin’s cellular function, which sparked Grown Alchemist. What makes Grown Alchemist unique? Our one focus is restoring skin function. Consumers are conditioned to think amazing skin is all about a magical ingredient; without healthy, capable skin cells, nothing happens. No other skincare brand focuses on cellular function, which guarantees real results. What’s in the pipeline for 2020? We’re launching many new products, including antipollution skincare, and will open our global flagship store next month. It’s a holistic beauty hub, with a purified air “clean room,” natural skincare products and beauty supplements, LED-light treatments, IV drip therapy, facials and oxygen treatments.
REBECCA MINKOFF Happy 15th, love! At Minkoff’s see-now, buy-now show on Saturday, she debuted ecofriendly, no-inventory kids’ clothes. “When I became a mom, I always thought it’d be fun!” she says of adding pintsize designs. Adorable!
COUPLE GOALS!
With Keri Russell & Matthew Rhys You’re both wearing white shoes. Was that planned? Keri: His are old and mine are new. Matthew: I wear mine all the time! They’re both Rag & Bone. Keri, we saw you dancing mid-show. Matthew: We’re wasted! [Laughs] We’ve had three Peronis. Keri: I dance all the time. I’m a trained dancer. How would you rate her dancing? Matthew: 10… Keri: Nice! Matthew: ...out of 50! [Russell breaks into laughter] Matthew, you were so good in the Mister Rogers’ biopic. What was Mrs. Rogers like? Keri: Isn’t it a beautiful movie? Matthew: She has a wicked sense of humor. She’d say, “Fred drove me nuts!” She’s honest. In the movie, she says Fred wasn’t a saint. He was far from perfect, but he worked hard. She was adamant about keeping him humanized.
BAR BANTER!
With succession’s Nicholas Braun
News Quiz! Which brand is Virgil Abloh collaborating with next? A. Starbucks B. Pampers C. Evian D. Petco Answer: C
Thoughts on fashion shows? It’s so new. This world is so different. It’s like a twisted movie premiere, but twisted up and rearranged. I like the tension right before the show starts. Do you get called Cousin Greg? Yeah. They also call me Greg, the Egg. That’s really stuck. So you co-own a LES bar, Ray’s... It’s like a classy dive bar. It feels like it’s been there for awhile. There’s good booze and vibes, nice bartenders, lots of country music, and a broken jukebox. I love it. I go all the time. Probably too much.
getty images (6); imaxtree (5); courtesy ryan kobane/bfa.com (4); all others courtesy
Kate Moss’ daughter Lila Moss sat front row, sans mom.
palm beach dispatch!
Rag & Bone
ALWAYS BUSY!
New Guard Alert!
With Euphoria’s Storm Reid
Could one half of an iconic Italian house be announcing his departure after the Oscars? That’s the word…
PROMOTION
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The Daily Wonders… What’s the strangest Brandusa Niro snack Editor in Chief, CEO you’ve eaten this season?
CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS PURE JOIE!
“Someone is trying to get into the show, saying they’re my mother and her name is Beatrice. They should do research! My mom’s name is Monse.” —Fernando Garcia
“Flock Chicken Chips, but I couldn’t eat them near anyone… they smell!”
Christopher John Rogers is the buzziest names at NYFW this season. (And he’s only 26!) These ballroom-ready looks channeled everything from French cinematic clowns to crumpled garbage bags into his ruffled bibs, hand-stitched suiting, leg of mutton sleeves, and his soon-to-be signature “strawberry-shaped” waists. We can’t wait to see a celeb to wear one of these super-size silk taffeta numbers for a truly epic red carpet moment. Your move, Lady Gaga!
COIF CARE!
Kérastase offered Fusio-Dose conditioning treatments, blowouts, and styling at Salon Ziba on West 57th Street for chicsters like Olivia Caputo, Michelle Blashka, Gregoria Reyes-Lou, and Hilma Amorim Finland for our Influencer soirée. Tressed to perfection!
Creative Director Dean Quigley Contributing Executive Editor Alexandra Ilyashov
A Big Mac, at 11 p.m. Chic!”
Fashion News Editor Aria Darcella Contributing Fashion Editor Freya Drohan Editors-at-Large Charlotte and Sophie Bickley Contributing Art Director Teresa Platt
Contributing Photo Editor & Photographer Hannah Turner-Harts Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro
SPEAKING TRUTH!
With DAN PERES
What were the hardest moments to write about in your book, As Needed for Pain? When I was hosting a Details event in L.A., and had run out of pills, which was the worst thing that could happen to me—and something I confronted with some frequency, because I was taking so many. I’d spent a good portion of the day unsuccessfully trying to find a doctor in L.A. who would prescribe me opiates. I was starting to feel withdrawal symptoms. Later that night I decided to get heroin, which I’d never done—and ended up not doing. I was at a point where I was like, I can’t go through withdrawal again, there needs to be something easier. I thought I could score heroin on the street. But I had this bizarre exchange with a drug dealer. I thought I was running this beautiful con on everybody, but the cracks were starting to show. Why were you ready to share your story? I had incredibly vivid memories of pretty
awful moments in my life, and wanted to take advantage of the fact that I still remembered them. More importantly, when I was taking drugs and struggling as an active addict, I sought comfort in addiction memoirs. Even though I wasn’t ready to stop, or trying to stop, or couldn’t stop, turning to stories like these gave me hope and showed me there was a way out. You reveal some illegal things you did to get pills. Were you worried to admit that? I didn’t research any statute of limitations. Yes, I did those things, and much more. I think I’m probably going to be okay. But think of the amazing promotional opportunity for the book if I got taken away from a reading in handcuffs! Lastly, what happened with Gawker 2.0? Just as the evolution of the print media business is changing, the same is true within digital. Owners look at a business and say, “It doesn’t make sense to move forward with this right now.” With Gawker, ultimately the time didn’t seem right to management. They wanted to hold off; it’s certainly their right to do that. It was a fun couple of months. I was excited for the opportunity. But there’ll be other opportunities.
Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists George Maier, Nola Romano Editor in Chief & President The Daily Front Row Palm Beach Lizzi Bickford “Skinny Pop, affixed to my face like a feedbag.’
Chief Marketing Officer Alex Dickerson Fashion Publishing Director Monica Forman Marketing Manager Nandini Vaid Digital Operations Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor Intern Nicol Maciejewska
To advertise, call (646) 768-8101 Or e-mail: advertising@dailyfrontrow.com The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright © 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 810 Seventh Avenue, Ste. 400A, New York, NY 10019.
Spec-tacular!
The Blonde Salad’s Chiara Ferragni, Sunglass Hut’s global Fashion Month curator, is sharing shade-y styling tips online and in stores, like this hack: “Tortoise sunnies can be worn with more than earth tones. I like mixing them with fun, unexpected pieces, like a fuchsia leather jacket.”
P RO M OTION
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“I accidentally sprayed Tom Ford Beau de Jour in my mouth like Binaca. I don’t recommend it.”
On the cover Lewis Hamilton, courtesy Tommy Hilger
coterie cover: kendall jenner and ashley benson, photographed by dimitrios kambouris/getty images for longchamp. this page: getty images (9); all others courtesy
Where did the punk vibes come from? Laura Kim: We were watching Fantastic Mr. Fox and there’s that little rat; the only evil character in the movie. Fernando Garcia: Adorably evil! How stressed or relaxed are you feeling this Fashion Week? Garcia: This week has been busy! Everyone likes to cram activities within Fashion Week because everyone’s in town. It’s hard to say no to your friends’ birthday parties or dinner things. Nicky Hilton is one of our biggest supporters, and it was her sister Paris’ birthday, so I can’t say no to that.
Managing Editor Tangie Silva
Digital Director Charles Manning
FEELING FOXY!
With Monse’s Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia
“Spaghetti Al Pacino from Serafina”
Chief Content Officer Eddie Roche
2/10/20 12:26 PM
POLOGEORGIS.COM
Booth 6916 143 West 29th St. NY 212.563.6735
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Runway report
longchamp
imaxtree (24)
Sophie Delafontaine explored a woman’s many layers this season, literally and metaphorically. Her multifaceted, city-dwelling muse will gravitate toward utilitarian vests, puffers that are stylish enough to hibernate in, and shearling collars on functional bomber jackets. Plus, the divine Longchamp bags, of course. Not all heroes wear capes—and the multitasking Longchamp lady is the star of her own show—but no doubt this chic outerwear staple will be on her wish list anyway.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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brandon maxwell
imaxtree (24)
The secret to a truly spirited NYFW show? Cheerleaders! As stars of Netflix’s hit series Cheer sat front row “mat talking” models, the movement and drama on the runway was next-level. Maxwell’s diaphanous chiffon and oil slick silk creations appeared to float, along with his distinctive sharp tailoring and outerwear. The newness of a liquid tortoiseshell fabric on dresses and a high-collared puffer also commanded attention, and elicited enthusiastic calls of “Yesssss!” from Cheer’s leading ladies. Flawlessly executed, Brandon!
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Runway report
uLla johnson
Ooh la, Ulla! A woman’s many contradictions were celebrated in the juxtaposition of delicate liquid satin, floral cloqué, and crochet with impeccably structured leather. Ditto the 1980s throwback silhouettes melded seamlessly with signature offerings, like knitwear and Lurex chiffon. Johnson was inspired by “the art of living,” and she certainly gave her customers some masterpieces. Leather offerings, like wide Obi belts and slick anorak jackets, looked particularly special. This homegrown brand’s future is brighter than ever, making the launch of sunglasses extra fitting.
zadig & No one does Parisian insouciance like Cecilia Bönström. The designer was excited to be back in New York this season, and it shows. Her trademark offering of je ne sais quoi cool was injected with a distinctive city slicker edge, thanks to flight suits, rebellious denim with double waistbands, and leather blazers. (Adam Sandler’s Uncut Gems character continues to be a surprise style influence!) As for the 1970s-style suits accessorized with sleek doctor bags? They wouldn’t look out of place strolling down a Soho street or the Champs-Élysées.
imaxtree (22)
Voltaire
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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nicole miller
imaxtree (22)
God save rock ’n’ roll! British music icons of the 1970s scene were on the brain for Miller, who presented a Rolodex of prints and patterns inspired by the genre. Paisley had its moment on silk palazzo pants, a slip dress, and a full tuxedo look, while cheetah and leopard came out to play on car coats and slinky skirts. The veteran designer’s signature downtownmeets-uptown aesthetic had a new goal this season—to break down gender barriers by celebrating the androgynous spirit of the decade. Sounds like a hit to us! The theme is rock and royalty. Why? We couldn’t stop reading about the royals this year. Between Harry and Andrew, they were in the press every minute. I was thinking of rebellious royals. It became about different aspects of royalty. How did it grow into rock ’n’ roll? It got to be like a British invasion, and I was thinking of ’80s rock bands. I liked the juxtaposition of rock and royalty. With the world getting more inclusive and diverse, I decided to cast boys in the show. I was thinking of David Bowie, the first androgynous rock star that I can remember. The whole era when Brits took over was so exciting. Did you listen to rock music while working? We always do! “God Save the Queen” [by the Sex Pistols], the Rolling Stones, the Clash.… We were going to have “God Save the Queen” on the runway but decided the music shouldn’t be literal. Thoughts on Meghan and Harry leaving the U.K.? I predicted it. I said she wasn’t sticking around. I figured she’d be gone in three years on her own. I wasn’t sure whether she was going to take him.
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Racing
Stripes
Drive To
Design
Scenes from Tommy Hilfiger and Hamilton’s past TOMMYNOW collabs
courtesy
Tommy Hilfiger and Formula One superstar Lewis Hamilton have joined forces again. This season’s sleek, sporty looks are the duo’s most sustainably made to date. Hilfiger and Hamilton filled us in ahead of the collection’s debut on February 16 at London Fashion Week. Ready, set, go! By EDDIE ROCHE
FAS H IONWEE K D AILY. C OM
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TOMMY HILFIGER You’re pairing up with Lewis Hamilton again. Why do you think this collaboration has really taken off? Lewis’s incredible personality and great style really resonate with our customers. This collection marks our fourth season with him, and we have centered it around the idea of creating something for everyone, regardless of gender, age, body type, or ethnicity. What first piqued your interest about working with him? Lewis has great style. His confidence and passion, both on and off the track, make him stand out. I knew he’d bring that same energy and spirit to our collaboration. What have you learned about fashion from Lewis? Lewis is not afraid to take risks with fashion. We worked closely on the design process, and it was great to see how he translated his bold style in unique ways for each collection. Sustainability is a big part of your next collection together. Why did you decide to focus on this? Sustainability is important to Lewis and myself, and we wanted the collection to focus on that. The Spring collection will have more than 75 percent of styles in sustainable materials, including vegan leather and 100 percent sustainably sourced cotton. It’s our responsibility to do more for the world we live in. How do you feel about the industry as a whole making serious efforts when it comes to sustainability? Our brand has always been committed to making positive impacts on the environment and our communities. I think sustainability is the future of fashion, and it’s great to see that our industry is making strides and increasing their efforts. Why did you decide to show across the pond again? Lewis grew up in England, so it’s exciting to take TOMMYNOW to London and show at the iconic Tate Modern. What are your favorite things to do in London? King’s Road has always been a source of inspiration for me; I love going there to look at the fashion. I also try and visit the Serpentine Gallery. I love to spend a relaxing afternoon at Hyde Park, too. Tell us about the Fashion Frontier project launching on February 13th. We launched a global program to support start-up businesses that are working to promote inclusive and positive changes in fashion. The upcoming event is the second edition of the Fashion Frontier Challenge. It’s something I feel passionately about. I’m so glad we can support the next generation of entrepreneurs. We have finalists who come from so many fields— agriculture, refugee aid, retail, and women’s rights. Seeing their drive and hearing about their work is so inspiring, and I’m looking forward to our event in Amsterdam when we’ll announce the winners.
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LEWIS HAMILTON What really resonates with you about this collection? Fashion is a form of self-expression, so it’s important to me that my collections inspire and empower others to be authentically themselves. Each of my collections have something special about them, but this one feels particularly personal because I’ve been able to put so much of my experience, knowledge, and skill from my past three collections into it, particularly through the designs, textiles, and colors, which all reflect my own personal style. What can we expect from this collection? The unisex pieces are a mixture of Tommy’s classic
Some of Hilfiger and Hamilton’s polished yet comfortable designs.
preppy style coupled with my own streetwear influences. We’ve used military colors and cuts, including cool blues, khakis, and neutral tones, with bright splashes of neon throughout. The capsule also celebrates the notion of “Style for All”—the belief that great style erases all boundaries in gender, age, ethnicity, and body type. How did sustainability factor into the design process? We used sustainable fabrics, including organic cotton, vegan leather alternatives, recycled denim, and plant-based materials, such as Sorona yarn, which uses less energy and emits less greenhouse gases. It was a no-brainer to include it in this collection. Also, each item has been made to withstand lower-impact washes, so they’re more sustainable to maintain. Some of my favorite pieces from the collection, including the sneakers, are made using vegan leather alternatives. Given my love of animals and choice to follow a plant-based diet, it was important to me to maintain the look, style, and comfort of my pieces, while also ensuring they were cruelty-free and sustainable. I’m so proud of this collection, and will continue to work toward my designs being 100 percent sustainable. What have you learned from Tommy and his design team? Tommy has been a mentor of mine for years, and
his design team is incredible to work with. They’ve taught me everything from how to express myself through my designs to creating mood boards, selecting and piecing together fabrics and colors, to the more technical side of things, including illustration and pattern drafting. What’s it like when you see people wearing your looks? It’s surreal! I still pinch myself when I see people wearing pieces from my collections. It’s humbling to see my designs brought to life and see how people choose to wear and individualize some of the designs to reflect their own personal style. What’s new with your “other” job, aka being an accomplished Formula One driver? Last year was an incredible year, and one I was really proud of. Winning my sixth championship was a dream come true. I have an incredible team around me at Mercedes, and I am so grateful for their support. I’ve had my head down in training, getting ready for the first race in Australia this March. What do your Formula One peers think of your work with Tommy? My teammates at Mercedes are so supportive of my collections with Tommy. They understand that chasing your passions off the track helps flourish your talents on the track.
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Kevin Hughes
THE DAILY stopped by the gorgeous Moroccanoil Academy in Manhattan last week while hair guru Kevin Hughes was prepping his team for NYFW. The backstage mainstay tells us how he’s getting ready for the shows, and why he’s crazy for the new facility. By EDDIE ROCHE Photography by caroline fiss
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Hair pros, hard at work in Moroccanoil Academy’s NYC facility.
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“MOroccanoil academy is not just for expert stylists, it’s not just for beginners, it’s for everyone. the space feels so welcoming.” How do you prepare for NYFW? It all begins when we start to hear from the designers. We like to get as much inspiration from them as possible. For example, with The Blonds, they’re super involved; they love hair and makeup. They’re always like, “This is what we’re thinking. What do you think?” I really appreciate that they take my thoughts into consideration. We just go back and forth and back and forth. What are your biggest challenges during Fashion Week? Understanding the designer’s vision, because their vision can change. Sometimes they begin one way and then they’ll change it over time. You have to always be really flexible and fluid and just go with it. With The Blonds last year, there were ornate headpieces and we put anchor braids in the hair and sewed them onto the head. Backstage, the piece that I had tried on wasn’t even in the show; they had all new pieces. I just had to go with it. The last-minute changes are the hardest parts. Every Fashion Week I’m like, “Oh, my God, why do I do this?” and then when the show starts, I’m like, “That was amazing!” Do you get nervous during shows? Absolutely. I think that’s good. It’s because I care and I want it to be amazing. I don’t want it to be like, “Oh, the hair was okay.” I want the hair to look beautiful. I represent this brand, so you know it has to be beautiful, healthy-looking hair. Fortunately, we’re usually able to do that, but it does keep me on my toes. I don’t take it for granted. I know how important [showing] is to designers. It’s their lives. What Moroccanoil products do you tend to always use? The Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong is my No. 1 go-to. Just doing editorial hair and stuff, I need to be able to rake through the hair, redo it, and then reset it, restyle it without any flaking or residue. So that’s my go-to. I think that everyone should have an
oil like our Moroccanoil Treatment Original. One of my newer favorite products is the Mending Infusion, which is a split-end mender. It mends split ends not mechanically, but visually. Those are my three main go-to products, but there’s more that I really love. What classes do you teach at the Academy? Anyone can go to moroccanoilprofessionals.com; there’s a list of all the classes, and what they entail and cost. Some are already sold out until later in the year. We have a backstage secrets class I do in February and September for NYFW. Stylists come in to train for everything they need to know for the mainstays of backstage, like a super-sleek, tight ponytail. I call it the perfect pony. I make them do it over and over again. I want them to be super confident. It’s not a photo shoot; it’s live, so it’s different from editorial. That’s one of our most popular classes. We also do a two-day, behind-the-lens class. The first day, you learn a lot of technique, the do’s and don’ts of on-set editorial work, and how to network, get with an agency, and put yourself out there. The second day we do a full-fledged photo shoot with a professional photographer and a team, to create looks for their portfolios. We also do a designer boot camp. How did you feel the first time you saw the Academy? When I came in after everything was finished, I felt proud. I’m proud to show people around, and proud for people to come. We’d love everybody to come and learn here. We tailor all the classes so that everybody gets the same information and gets it clearly and understands it. My favorite saying is “No man gets left behind.” I make sure that everybody is on the same page before we move forward. Moroccanoil Academy is not just for expert stylists, it’s not just for beginners, it’s for everyone. The space feels so welcoming. It’s like my own pied-à-terre in the city, except I don’t get to sleep overnight here. But I would!
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Session! With Robert Ham, Moroccanoil’s VP of global education How did the idea for the Academy come about? It’s been a labor of love for more than five years. We want to have a dialogue with professional hairdressers, and give them a space where they can learn. What are some of the classes? Our education is divided into cutting and styling. We have our own cutting method, which we created a few years ago. This year, we’re launching a robust collection of business education. It’s on everybody’s mind right now, because it’s a hard world for the hairdresser to navigate with so many options. Hairdressers have stopped recommending products, but we want to recommend programs to help the stylists learn how they can counteract some of the online business. We’ll be having leadership programs. We dabble a little into social media and how salons can use social media to increase their business. We also have special workshops. What’s in the pipeline next? We have some cool launches coming in the next few years that are only for professionals, so when you have those types of products, you have a workshop where they can come and learn quality education.
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Buzz
Over the weekend, Bumble, fashion’s favorite app, brought NYFW to the people with a series of activations throughout the city. Sarah Sawaf, Bumble’s NYC market lead, gives us the full scoop!
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“bumble now has more than 80 million users worldwide, but new york remains our biggest market, and an important one.” Why did Bumble want to be a part of NYFW? It’s a part of the fabric of New York, showcasing innovation and creativity. Bumble now has more than 80 million users worldwide, but New York remains our biggest market, and an important one. We want nothing more than to align with an iconic event that’s so central to this city. For those that don’t have the app (yet!), what is Bumble? Bumble is no longer just a dating app, but rather a social networking platform, created by women but for everyone. Our goal is to help people of all genders make the first move in all areas of their lives, whether that means you’re seeking a romantic relationship on Bumble Date, making new friendships on Bumble BFF, or growing your professional network on Bumble Bizz. Tell us about the The Bumble Hive. The Hive was a fun, interactive pop-up where guests could expect a packed calendar of programming, but also a safe space to foster new connections—whether that’s with someone you met on Bumble or at Fashion Week. Attendees could also enjoy exclusive access to brands and products we love for the duration of the pop-up. We wanted to focus on the idea of community and inclusivity. Typically, runway shows are exclusive, invite-only events, so we wanted to create a more inclusive space for everyone— consumers and creators. Was the idea inspired by Fashion’s Night Out? Yes, it was the original inspiration for our “treasure hunt” though Soho. Bumble partnered with retailers around the neighborhood to offer in-store discounts to anyone who showed their Bumble profile. Upon arrival at the Hive, guests received a map to hunt for “Bumble Benefits” scattered throughout Soho. So what was the Bumble Bazaar? It was our market within The Hive, produced and built by Early Spring, a Brooklyn-based experiential strategy and design agency. To further the idea of inclusivity, we wanted to partner with brands that don’t have storefronts, so we featured five direct-toconsumer brands across three categories: beauty, apparel, and accessories. These brands were Worker
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B, Emily Dawn Long, Wray, Beepy Bella, and Imago-A. How did you find the brands for the Bazaar? We partnered with fashion and beauty editors Michelle Li and Mi-Anne Chan to help us curate the brands. Their choices were based on feedback from their Instagram followers. Why did you want to partner with Soho stores? The Bumble NY office is based in Soho, so we wanted to partner with our neighbors as a way to celebrate our community. We worked with Rebecca Minkoff, Alice + Olivia, Fleur du Mal, Mejuri, Naadam, Tai, Illesteva, Kirna Zabête, ba&sh, Atelier Beauté Chanel, The Vintage Twin, AYR, Aurate, Studs, Nanushka, Anine Bing, Club Monaco, The Laundress, and Joie. What do you look for when you partner with a fashion influencer? We’re looking for people with their own point of view, who aren’t afraid to put their whole heart into their work. We’re looking for new voices and folks outside the mainstream; their followers may not have heard of Bumble, and we want to spread our message of inclusivity, equality, and respect, far and wide. What are Bumble ambassadors, and how can we sign up? We have one program for current university students looking to gain invaluable marketing experience and build a community on their campus, and another offering part-time roles to those not currently enrolled in undergrad, depending on experience and desired level of involvement. Our ambassadors are expected to be the face of Bumble in their city and spread our mission and values to their communities. Check out our website to apply! What does Bumble have on tap for the rest of the year? Download the app and turn on push notifications to stay tuned to all our upcoming events! One launch we’re particularly excited about is the opening of Bumble Brew, a coffee shop by day and wine bar by night that’ll be in Soho. We wanted to provide an IRL space for New Yorkers to meet Bumble Date, BFF, and Bizz connections, and we’ll be rolling out an exciting calendar of programming there, too.
Bumble’s ambassadors took it to the streets for NYFW to promote The Hive pop-up.
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Pasta
party John Meadow at Scarpetta’s Nomad location
Scarpetta’s recipe for success? Delicious fare, celeb guests like the Jaggers (below), and sleek private dining rooms for an intimate meal, as well as special events (above).
Delicious
It’s hard to believe this is your third year inside The James Hotel. How are you liking the area? We absolutely love our new home in the NoMad neighborhood. It really represents the new social and business crossroads of New York City. We never wanted to leave Meatpacking, but the move proved to be the best thing that ever happened to us, and we’ve found wonderful synergy among our guests at the Miami, London, and Hamptons Scarpetta properties. Any really memorable moments at the NoMad location? The entire room stopping and turning their heads to watch my childhood idol, Michael Jordan, hold court in the dining room. Also, artist Domingo Zapata’s
Fashion Week after-party at the Seville. We know you have a lot of celebrity clients... Just last week, we had Richard Branson in for lunch and he decided, unprompted, to go downstairs to a private event room and give a speech at a conference! We also had John Varvatos and the Jonas Brothers in last week. Other guests include Justin Timberlake, Victoria and David Beckham, Hugh Jackman, Mick Jagger, Kate Moss, and Alicia Keys. You just opened two new private dining rooms on the property. Tell us more! We’re seeing a real shift toward social, communitycentric dining, and a greater desire than ever before for large groups to have private restaurant experiences. To meet demand, we’ve converted two meeting rooms at the James Hotel into Scarpetta private dining rooms, with the ability to host up to 100 guests. How else might you use these swanky new spaces? We can now host collaborations, classes, and popups, like a recent wine-and-food collaboration dinner we did with Restaurant Roscioli from Rome. We conducted pasta-making classes last year with our executive chef, and plan to roll out more classes this year, as well as wine dinners and classes with our favorite wine brands, like Gaja. We’re also opening up these types of experiences to corporate groups for private events and meetings.
What’s new on the menu? We’re about to roll out a special caviar with tagliatelle pasta. We’re also expanding our crudo offering. Plus, we started making our own glutenfree pasta this year. You also recently launched a new charity program, right? We’re focusing our charitable efforts on the Food & Finance High School in NYC, the city’s only culinary high school, powered by the Food Education Fund, to encourage local youth to pursue careers in hospitality. So many people are caught in an unfortunate cycle of poor education, which impedes long-term career development. The Food and Finance High School allows a direct path into the city’s restaurant industry. We couldn’t think of a better charity, both to benefit the kids of New York and to help improve the talent pool in our industry. We are donating $1 for every spaghetti dish sold in our NYC location this year. We began on Giving Tuesday in December 2019, and decided that this was the right place to put our efforts. The initiative at Scarpetta is #Spaghettiforsocialgood, and we have other events coming to support them, too. What’s next for Scarpetta? Selfishly, I want to open restaurants in my favorite places so I have an excuse to travel. We opened our first international project in London this summer, and we have three new international projects coming up in amazing cities that we can’t wait to share!
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Scarpetta has become a culinary destination for visitors and native New Yorkers alike, thanks to their mouthwatering dishes and cozy-chic ambiance. The Daily sat down with owner JOHN MEADOW to learn all about their recent upgrades and get a sneak peak at what’s next.
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Dish
FALL/WINTER 20 February 11 – 13 Coterie Booth #7575 Javits, Level 3
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COTERIE EDITION
New
PLUS! An essential dossier
to the array of activations happening throughout Coterie that you simply can’t miss… LOUNGE AROUND
JOOR Geo-Java Lounge Stop by the Geo-Java lounge (between Escalators 1B and 1C) for a free coffee and chat with the experts on why it’s the platform of choice for many of your favorite brands.
Crib sheet
Coterie has grown to be so much more than a trade show. The biannual event now offers ways to network, learn, and pamper oneself while checking out the latest collections. But with three days and the expansive Javits Center to navigate, planning out a schedule can be overwhelming. Don’t fret! The Daily is here with our top picks of what to check out at the fair. TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 11
WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12
THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 13
A Mmode Coffee Moment Need a pick-me-up and feelin’ fancy? Mmode, hot coffee with a maple twist, is offering drinks and goodies from 2 p.m. to 3 p.m. at Moda.
Fame’s Cure Timing & Lumiere (Booth #5011) and GLAM (Booth #5205) are teaming up to take the edge off with a mid-week cocktail. The “Love Spell” drink will be available in the FAME lounge from 3 p.m. to 4 p.m., while supplies last.
Popcorn Party Head to the Children’s Club on Level 3 from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. for a complimentary afternoon popcorn snack!
Champagne Social EDIT is toasting the end of the first day with a prosecco reception. Head to the EDIT lounge from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. to sip some bubbly. Nonalcoholic drinks are available, too!
Be My Valentine Calligraphy artist Nancy Moy will be on-hand at FAME to create customizable Valentines between 3 p.m. and 4 p.m. Just in time for the special day!
Drop in on these amazing information sessions that are sure to offer a trove of tips and tricks to help you succeed in business. The State of Fashion and Insights from the Modern Retail Collective Tuesday, February 11, from 2:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. Discover how technology is becoming increasingly more relevant in fashion and the in-store shopping experience. Insights from Mall of America, McKinsey & Company, and Kendra Scott. Fashion Snoops Buyer Trend Presentation Wednesday, February 12, from 1 p.m. to 2 p.m. Led by Fashion Snoops’ Hallie Spradlin, learn about upcoming trends in women’s apparel, accessories, and footwear. Monetizing Instagram, Fashion’s Most Powerful Platform Wednesday, February 12, from 2:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. The Daily presents influencers Tezza Barton, Christie Ferrari, Wendy Nguyen, and Idalia Salsamendi sharing their knowledge of how to master online engagement. Moderated by Beca Alexander. Good4Fashion: The Relevance of Recycled and Upcycled Materials Thursday, February 13, from 1 p.m. to 2 p.m. Industry experts discuss the importance of recycled and upcycled fabrics and sustainable living. Featuring names from Matt & Nat, Vogue China, New York Magazine, GQ, InStyle, and Bloomberg Pursuits.
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Coterie
PANEL-PALOOZA!
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Ultimate
Crystal Cove Resort Lounge Located on Level 1, the lounge will be home to several activations at the fair this season. Stop by and take a selfie in its giant, Instagramable geode “room.” Check out the Modern Retail Collective store experience, featuring experts from McKinsey & Company, who will be available to chat between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. on Days 1 and 2. Or drop in for various pop-ups on Self Gua Sha techniques (from Jazmin Alvarez, Pretty Well Beauty); holistic health/crystal recommendations (Rachelle Robinett, Supernatural); intuitive crystal pull (Tiny Bandit); and amethyst biomat and tarot card reading (Ashes & Earth).
Coterie Booth:
#7726
mauritiusleather.com 888.211.7339 ex102 lyn@chr-fashion.com mauritiusleather.com 888.211.7339 ex102 lyn@chr-fashion.com
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Tel: 954.578.5687 Fax: 954.578.4431 info@iftheplanet.com www.PlanetByLaurenG.com
Booth 6664
SHOWROOMS N.Y. CHICAGO DALLAS
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Fashion evolution
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The Daily recently sat down with Antonino Laspina, the newly appointed U.S. trade commissioner and executive director of the Italian Trade Agency, at his Upper East Side office to learn how ITA is making a huge push to bring Italian brands to the forefront in the American market. By EDDIE ROCHE Photography by giorgio niro
courtesy ITA
What is the Italian Trade Agency’s mission? It’s a government agency in charge of promoting Italy abroad. We were under the guidance of the Ministry of Economic Development until last year, but now we are under the guidance of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Economic Corporation. This is important for us because the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) will now be more effective, have more support, and be put into a system of economic diplomacy. The Italian economic system is based on 93 to 94 percent small- and medium-size corporations; we have big companies, but they’re limited in number and influence. We were founded in 1926 and are probably the oldest government agency in charge of promoting economic trade. It’s an important task for us because out of the worldwide exports, Italian exports to the U.S. are approximately 30 percent. We are growing near 40 percent, so we need to identify new markets for Italian companies. How will you accomplish this? We have to identify suitable tools and new sectors where these Italian companies can be competitive. Other countries have been able to maintain their creative industry but have been forced to transfer the manufacturing to other countries. We’re unique because we have a creative system among designers, schools, training centers, and companies. Some of these production houses are 100 years old, so they can take advantage of different experiences accumulated in decades, related to fabrics, but also to something like leather. We have full control of the whole process, from the tanneries to the working process when defining the leather. We can move into every single sector—for instance, shoes and jewelry. We’re manufacturing topquality shoes where the obsession is quality, not quantity. That’s so important. How are Italian brands achieving this? We have companies still maintaining an artisanal approach, while increasing income. Manufacturing huge
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COTERIE EDITION quantity of goods is not their key for success. They’re cautious to not expand too much, because otherwise, they don’t have enough people to properly control product quality. So every single sector is fully controlled by the Italian system. That makes the system even stronger, and it can offer every guarantee that you’d want, including sustainability. We’re trying to explain to Italian companies that from the outside the U.S. system is difficult in terms of penetration, but not impossible. The market also needs to be informed about the Italian system’s particularity. Many traders and consumers have a general idea that, in Europe, almost all manufacturing has moved to other parts of the world. Big brands in the States are always “made in China,” and a small quantity are made in Italy, because they’re continuing to use Italian production as a private label. But our idea is that there are some dynamics in the U.S. market that are going to reopen [import opportunities] for some Italian products due to these particularities. The tannery industry has made an incredible transformation. It’s changed so much from just three decades ago, becoming more and more green. Due to American consumers’ attitudes, Italy is looked up to as the place where you can get top-quality products. But even in the big department stores on Fifth Avenue in New York, you won’t find anything competing with the quality of top Italian brands. So how do you hope to change stateside interest in Italian goods? Our task is to demystify any preconceived perceptions of Italian products, and also operate education and training for Italian companies to show that there are regulations, but here’s the market. Education, metropolitan areas, and per capita income are not only in New York and Los Angeles, and if [a city or region] has those three elements, it’s time for us to go there! Any specific cities or states you’re focusing on? In Miami and Chicago, or Texas, we don’t have the same amount of penetration that we do in other big cities around the world. This is the time for us to move in. We’re also going to train and educate Italian companies about the American market. We want them to be more aware about intellectual property rights, for instance, because if they start protecting their ideas and brands, they’ll come [to the U.S.] and find people are more trusting and wanting to strategize together. We want them to be more aware of the fact that there are rules, but this market is open to them. How are you educating Italian companies and American consumers? With the fair and exhibition, which some people would call a traditional way. But inside the exhibition is a new concept; it’s an occasion to put people together, but also to have a selection and introduction to the market. Also, we’re organizing some fashion shows within the Italian pavilion, and using a digital system to make it possible for people to contact one another even before the exhibition. It’s important and indispensable, especially for smalland medium-size companies to talk [to the U.S. market] about how important quality is, and then show them the quality of the stitching, finishing, and materials. Do you have any plans to offer this in-person immersion elsewhere in the country? By coming to New York, I think Italian companies have to understand what direction they want to go in, and what products to emphasize in their collections. But we’re not excluding the idea of using New York as a trampoline; the market in Chicago is not the same as Miami or Los Angeles. There are different lifestyles, weather, and traditions in the U.S. population [in different cities]. We’re also aware that we have to help buyers understand what Italian fashion is today. Any kind of exhibition in Italy in now registering an incredible number of buyers
invited by ITA and paid for by the government. They could come on their own, of course, but ITA is also providing them with assistance, a clear vision of what Italy offers, and making things possible for them after the exhibition. We help them be confident when discussing things with a new potential trade partner. Why is Coterie important for ITA, and what does that tell us about the relevance of trade shows in 2020? For a small- and medium-size company, Coterie is a real, not digital, material event, which is indispensable. Fairs are really important, not only in the States. There are still huge exhibitions in China for trade; we have more than 150 companies in China. Everyone thought exhibitions would be over 20 years ago, but they are still here. If people can’t see your product, they’ll never trust it or buy it. I can tell you, every single fair in the world is growing, growing, growing, which confirms they’re still important.
Finally, what are your thoughts on Italian restaurants in NYC? I’ve explored a lot, and there are many restaurants doing really well. They’ve been able to remove what we call the “mama’s kitchen” concept and give a better representation of Italian cuisine. They even use authentic Italian products, which is one of the big problems—in Europe you would say “Italian style,” and in the States you say “Italian.” There’s a big difference! There are lots of Italian-style restaurants, but they don’t use Italian products. Even if you’re using Italian products, the style of cooking is important, too. The process is simple. Any places here that excel at great ingredients in straightforward preparations? I’ve tried several and I think that Gattopardo in Midtown is a good Italian restaurant, because I have found this kind of coherence. Simple cooking! And I know for a fact that they use Italian ingredients.
“We’re trying to explain to Italian companies that from the outside the U.S. system is difficult in terms of penetration, but not impossible.”
Made In Italy designers are gaining more visibility in the U.S.
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Luxury report
Viva
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The Italian Trade Agency is bringing 60 of the chicest Italian brands to Coterie, New York’s premier trade show at the Javits Center from February 11–13. This season, Coterie overlaps with New York Fashion Week, giving fashion insiders an exclusive chance to see the best Italy has to offer. As the show gets closer, The Daily is giving you a leg-up on some of the must-know labels you can’t miss.
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COTERIE EDITION MELAROSA Eleonora Pavoni, Mamma of the Collection Tell us about what makes your pieces special! Our tops and dresses are made in Tuscany, and are then given to artists in the surrounding regions, who hand-paint each piece in their own homes and studios. Each item is individually painted, not printed, and for this reason there will never be two that are exactly the same. How does this benefit shoppers? Because each piece is custom-made, our clients are able to order the colors and combinations that they prefer, in addition to what is presented in the collections. Why is it important for you to make your pieces unique? Most of us don’t need just another sweater. To discover the Melarosa world is to be surprised with new ideas and new concepts of dressing. How has the brand evolved over the years? While in the beginning we started painting knits, we are now offering woven shirts, jackets, scarves, and dresses. Who are your muses? The artists of the world—the way they have been able throughout the centuries to express themselves with colors. We are inspired by the way colors react to each other and with various fabrics. Have any book recommendations? I would suggest reading the biography of Artemisia Gentileschi, an excellent Baroque painter from Rome. It’s quite unique to find a female painter in those days. The story of her life is fascinating, and it offers a view into Roman life at that time. Artemisia deserves to be discovered and fully appreciated.
ALPHA STUDIO
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Paolo Rossi, CEO When did you start working for the company? Franco Rossi, the founder of the company, is my father, so I have always been involved. Fashion and knitwear have been pillars of our family for as long as I can remember, and I hope that our future visions and projects will enlarge what my father has created. Anything you’re introducing this season? New volumes, new colors that have never been used, new designs, and also new fabrics like recycled cashmere. Who are your favorite fashion designers? The one I love most is Yves Saint Laurent. His avant-garde vision always poured into perfectly elegant and sophisticated clothes was the pure mix that we aim to reach one day! Coco Chanel was revolutionary in knitted bouclé. Nowadays, I think that artists like Jil Sander, Kris Van Assche, and Martin Margiela are so inspiring. What’s on your list of things to do and see while you’re in New York? What I like doing while traveling is to act like the locals, just to discover the culture and know more about our potential audience. If I have time, I will run on the Brooklyn Bridge like a real marathoner! How are you guys growing? We have recently started an expansion in both Russia and Taiwan. That is going well. We will see what the future brings! What Italian city should Americans visit? Florence! Apart from it being our native city, it is also a base for beautiful examples of architecture, art, writing, and historic panoramas. I also think everyone should enjoy the Amalfi Coast once in life. Otherwise, if you’re up in the north, I think Verona is the most romantic city ever and worth a visit. Also, it’s close to Lake Garda. But in Italy, every city is beautiful!
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Luxury report
NUMERO OTTO What’s your story? Numero Otto was founded in 2014 as the idea of two young designers, and has reached great success. The company is based on traditional values, giving special attention to safeguard Italian tradition and style. Fur, a symbol of luxury and elegance, becomes an adaptable, original, and contemporary garment. Describe your customer! She is an iconic woman who loves fashion, understands the importance of details, and knows what she wants to wear—a garment that is a unique piece of art. Do you have any notable fans? It’s really loved by customers and influencers like Chiara Ferragni. The most loved is the Chiara short coat in pink mink worn by Chiara herself. The Gilda bomber jacket is also a best seller in black fox, worn by influencers like Gilda Ambrosio, Candela Novembre, and Chiara and Valentina Ferragni. What’s new this season? The Re-Vintage capsule collection. We gave a new life to vintage fur coats! Pieces coming from ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s have been regenerated, restored, and their shape has been changed to make Numero Otto best-selling garments. Oh, wow! What inspired the concept? The aim of this project, made in cooperation with Saga Furs, is to highlight the importance of fur as a sustainable material that can be used and reused. Where are you located? Numero Otto was born in Napoli, one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Napoli is full of history, stunning colors, and amazing streets. People are special in their behavior, and the food is simply the best.
ELISA CAVALETTI Daniela Dallavalle, Creative Soul of the brand Tell us about the brand! It represents the heritage and real Italian story of a family business. Started by my mother in the ’60s, it has evolved through the decades. Its authentic style expresses a lifestyle concept that today is possible to find in relation to fashion, home textiles, design, and art. What is the vibe? Elisa Cavaletti comes into life tiptoed, but never unnoticed. Free to feel herself, to get lost and found every day—wrapped in sophisticated but comfortable garments—in her discoveries, meetings, paths, sights, scents, and taste companions. What are your best-selling pieces? Mainly our shirts, coats, and dresses. Do you have any business advice? Our approach to fashion has always been to identify a strong connection to our territory. Our production process is based on long-term relationships with suppliers and partners. We share our story with most of them from the beginning. What inspires you? Life. I had the chance to travel around the world and what I know is that nothing is more important than listening and sharing experiences with people. I admire everyone who chooses to live their life deeply. Fame or fortune or riches untold can’t give you more than a person with their own world of feelings and sensations. How important is fashion in Italy? Italian fashion is related to culture and our way of living. There’s no style without a lifestyle. Who is your favorite Italian filmmaker? It’s a really difficult choice, but the first name on the list is Fellini.
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CLAUDIO CUTULI Claudio Cutuli, Master Dyer What sets your brand apart? For five generations, the base of Cutuli’s creations has been its exclusive use of noble fabrics and natural yarns of the highest cut; fabrics and yarns like cashmere, bamboo, nettle, beech yarn, and raw materials offered by the animal, vegetable, and mineral world. Tell us more! How do you put it all together? The craftsmanship fuses with the most sophisticated and cutting-edge technologies—from laser cut to precious metal lamination—creating a crossover among tradition, passion, and technology. The outcome is an exclusive and refined product beautified by contrasts of raw materials masterfully mixed. Leather and fur are treated with natural dyes and processed with bold techniques, such as liquid nitrogen, artistic corrosions, hand milling, or even grinding, to give each and every creation its own life. What drew you to the fashion industry, initially? The cult of beauty and aesthetics, and a passion for what I do. Are there any new items you’re introducing this season? I always introduce new materials, mixing fabrics, leathers, and making unique art pieces. How would you describe Italian style? It’s unique! Why is it important for you to have your brand made in Italy? “Made in Italy” is synonymous with art, care in making garments, originality, and creativity. Tell us about your home base. Assisi is a small medieval village that combines territory and religiosity; it’s near Bevagna, where my company is located.
DONNA CAROLINA Paola Buendia, Co-Founder/Designer What sets your shoes apart? Our shoes are not only characterized by their refined production, which can be seen in every line, in every seam and in every piece of leather. Donna Carolina shoes convince in many ways. How so? First, there is the styling. There is a suitable model for every occasion and every customer’s wish. Additionally, classic designs get a contemporary twist, thanks to the Italian grandezza. The result is sneakers, slippers, boots—all kinds of shoes—in the distinctive Donna Carolina style. When was the brand founded? In 1957, the Terrin brothers founded the shoe factory in the Italian town of Fiesso d’Artico [near Venice], where they initially produced handmade shoes of their own design. And it just grew from there? Today, the family business is an international success story. We’re now one of the leading shoe brands on the European market. Despite the new technological standards in shoe production, Donna Carolina has never lost sight of her own originality and passion for excellent craftsmanship, materials, and creative design.
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Looking sharp
Ramy’s World
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It’s been a busy couple of months for Ramy Brook Sharp. Her gorgeous UES flagship debuted in September and has hosted a steady stream of loyal customers and charity shopping events, while her inaugural denim designs swiftly sold out, and will be expanding in a big way. Next up? Her first scent.
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Sharp just launched a denim collection that sold out in the first 48 hours on the brand’s website.
What’s new with you and your brand? We opened our new flagship in September at 980 Madison Avenue, which has been really exciting. Now that we have a larger space, we’re able to do a lot of great events, the majority of which are charityrelated. We’re planning to do a lot in 2020–we’re scheduling at least two a month, but we’re always willing to do more. Before I started my company, I was involved in different charities. I had more time on my hands and I was able to give back more, and it was very fulfilling. As my company started to grow, I started to work more and not have as much time for charities, but I still wanted to make a difference. I’ve always felt it’s important to give back in any way you can, whether by volunteering, writing a check, introducing your friends to this charity so they can help and get involved. My customers can feel good, too; you have a different mindset when you purchase something, knowing the money is going to help people. Is your Madison Avenue customer different than those at your other boutiques? It really spans a range of ages. Teenagers at schools in that area come by, and it’s a big mother/daughter shopping destination. You also see a lot of daughters pushing their stroller with their mothers, so it’s multiple generations of women shopping. It’s not like the mother sitting on the couch waiting for her daughter to try on a bunch of stuff. She’s also buying stuff, the daughter’s buying stuff; the mother will get something in one color, and her daughter will get another color so they can swap. We also have a lot of international clients because we’re surrounded by three major hotels. You launched denim last February. How are customers responding? It sold out in the first 48 hours on our website, and denim is already a top-selling category in stores. I didn’t expect that, actually! It took me a while to get the right fit. The customer is excited that we have denim that fits the body well, sucks you in, and lifts you up. We’re continuing to add new denim silhouettes. We have core styles our customers have been gravitating to, and we’re repeating those styles, in different washes. I started my brand because I had so much denim, and I just wanted a top to wear with my denim. I’ve always had piles of denim in every wash, color, and style, yet there were certain styles I could never seem to find.
“i love a two-for. if you’re going to invest in a piece of clothing, you might as well get to use it in many different ways.” What voids did you want to fill in your jeans collection? I wanted something that would look good with high boots, and also styles that would look cute with my booties. I really couldn’t find the fits I wanted for my body, so it was time for me to figure out how to develop denim, which is a whole other animal. What was the process of developing denim like? The great thing is, denim is done in L.A. It’s nice to have your product developed in the U.S. What’s interesting is that there are actually only a few types of denim out there, and the way you wash it affects the fit. I love jeans with stretch but didn’t want them to stretch out to the point where you’re upset you didn’t buy a size smaller, which was happening to me. By the end of the day, I needed to put on a belt, or a pair was so stretched out, they had to go back in the dryer for me to get the fit back to what I wanted. Fixing that in my own denim was a priority for me. Also, 10 years ago, there were a lot of lowwaisted denim that I loved, and over time, brands seemed to not be making low-waisted styles anymore. Everything seems to be mid- to high-waisted, and that’s great, but I also miss my low-waisted. Are we talking early aughts, Frankie B. sort of low-rise? Not quite Frankie B., even though that was one of my faves! I wore a lot of True Religion, too—super low, the kind of jeans you can literally only stand up in, because if you sat down when wearing those, the top of your tush would show. I used to call them cocktail jeans; you could only stand at a cocktail party. Mine are somewhere between a mid- and lowrise. You could still sit down and half your tush isn’t showing. What are you most excited about in your Fall collection? We’re doing some of our popular styles in corduroy, and we’ve added denim jackets—cool, untraditional styles in denim and corduroy, some with faux fur. We’re also doing a whole canvas collection, mostly jackets. It’s the first time we’re offering true outerwear. We’ve done faux fur, but more as toppers
for dresses. We have a puffer with faux fur and another puffer that’s reversible—one side is rose gold, and the reverse is ivory, with rose gold hardware. It’s chic and super cool! I love a two-for. If you’re going to invest in a piece of clothing, you might as well get to use it in many different ways. We’re also adding suiting. We’ve done a few blazers and pants, and outfits here and there but not necessarily in a big way. Now we’re focusing on more suiting. Another category we’ve increased a lot for fall is sweaters, using different types of yarn and silhouettes. So much is happening for your brand! What’s next? We’re developing a perfume. Well, it’s already been developed; we already have the packaging. That’s probably going sometime around April, and we’re also doing sunglasses. That’s going to be a new category for us as well. What has the scent development process been like? My dad’s a chemist, and the company he worked for was also big in the perfume industry. So I grew up with perfumes all over my house. My mother was one of those all-day, all-night perfume wearers. She always had something to spray! I have fond memories of perfume. I used to wear perfume a lot, but once I was pregnant and had kids, I didn’t wear it anymore. Either the kids didn’t like it, or I didn’t have the time and just didn’t think about it. So it became important again to me to have a fresh, nice perfume. We worked with a chemist at a company in New Jersey, who my dad actually knew. It’s a small world! How did you select the scent? Putting perfume on your skin makes it smell different. So I did a ton of different trials of me wearing samples out; if anyone said, “Oh, who smells good?” I’m like “Okay, that’s a winner!” If no one said anything, I was like, “Oh, that one who doesn’t work.” There’s been a bit of trial and tribulation, but I think it’s going to be awesome. It’s floral and feminine but not hugely strong in a way that offends people. Some people have perfumes where it’s like…woah! This is very fresh.
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Looking forward
Strong Style
Connection
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Season after season, French Connection delivers polished yet wearable collections, and this season’s designs are no exception. The brand’s creative director, Maria Chen, explains all.
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Did the dawn of a new decade at all influence the team’s design process? Yes, as designers we’re always thinking about the future. We embark on the design process at least a year in advance of a new collection launching. We’re constantly thinking about the future of consumerism, how the world is rapidly changing while still reminiscing and drawing learnings from the past. Tell us about the new collection! What was on your moodboard this season? For womenswear, it was images of Talitha Getty and young Lisa Marie Presley. For menswear, it was modern art, a mix-and-match of mountain sport and street, and quasi poet Americana. What are your favorite pieces from the collection? For womenswear, I’m loving all the leather and embossed vegan alternatives. Also, the ’80s influence in the form of the color mix onto a classic wintry item like a Fair Isle sweater. Any highlights among your hommes designs? For men, I love the combination of artsy, modern prints styled with a suit. I’ll always have an appreciation for streetwear-inspired styles that can be mixed into the modern man’s everyday wardrobe— like the mixed-check print puffer and the ripstop cargo trousers as seen on the runway. I love the mixand-match styling seen consistently throughout the collection; it’s done in a modern, elevated way. How did you discover the Caldwell Factory, and why did it seem like the perfect location for your show? The Caldwell Factory has evolved as part of the thread of New York City’s history; the building was completed in 1914. I love the history of the space, and the fact that in the 1990s one of my favorite and renowned photographers Annie Leibovitz converted the building into the West 26th Street Studio. In 2005, it was purchased from Leibovitz, lovingly restored and renovated into the former home of the famed Cedar Lake Contemporary Ballet Company. A fan of anything contemporary, I felt like this was the perfect home for French Connection’s latest show. Talk us through the show’s art direction. What sort of vibe did you want the space to evoke? The show evokes a modern sexiness while celebrating
“we’re constantly thinking about… how the world is rapidly changing while still reminiscing and drawing learnings from the past.” and embracing cultural diversity in an effortless way. Focused and determined; optimistic and expressive. What distinguishes NYFW from other Fashion Weeks globally? New York Fashion Week—along with Paris and Milan—are amongst the biggest in the world. New York has always been known for big names in wearable ready-to-wear, but it’s evolved from that, and is now the biggest event on the west side of the Atlantic Ocean. Incrementally, there are more evolving brands to watch in New York. I think it’s deeply rooted in the natural optimism and can-do nature of the American spirit, which encourages and supports innovation. I also love how New York is so multicultural. The city embraces diversity with people traveling from all over the world to live and work. It’s the home of so many influential fashion photographers. What trends should we be on the lookout for this season? Our Autumn/Winter 2020 collection is a play with the balance of minimalism and maximalism. On the minimalist side, sophisticated tailoring and paredback silhouettes looking forward with a strong new confidence. The maximalist side features clashing prints and an unexpected mix of bold color. Other major trends in womenswear include supple leather, architectural silhouettes, and 1970s-era, French inspired bourgeois chic. And for the guys, what sorts of ideas are big? For menswear, look out for mix-and-match styling, Alpine-mountaineering influence with technical cuts, modern-art-inspired prints, and streetwear puffers and hoodies, combined with inspiration drawn from the style of spoken-word rap and lyrical artists.
Looks from the Fall 2020 collection were presented on February 6.
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Some of the latest looks from Estheme, a luxury cashmere brand.
French cashmere brand Estheme is already available stateside, but with their debut at Coterie this season, they’re about to blow up. The Daily spoke to Greg Zhu, who runs communications for the label, to find out the scoop and keep you in the loop. Tell us about the brand’s origins! The founder, Julie Sheng, graduated from ESMOD, which is the biggest school for fashion studies in Paris. Then she launched the brand. In the beginning, it was small; then we met agents who set up a team to sell all across France. We started working with multi-brand stores. Now we have more than 500 multibrand stores selling our products in France. So it’s well established. Five years ago, we opened our own shops. Now we have a shop in Switzerland, and we have two shops in Paris. What did Julie study in school? Her specialty was coloring and knitwear. Then she worked with people to open a factory for our brand. Now we’re working with our own company on the factory. This is the first time Estheme will be at Coterie. What are you hoping to get out of the show? Mainly, we’re looking for an agent for the U.S. market. We have one, but we’re looking for more because the U.S. is so big. Also, we’re looking for new multibrand stores to do partnerships with. Why is cashmere such a coveted textile? There are many reasons. The obvious one is that it’s soft. When we touch it, we instantly fall in love. We can feel it’s different. It’s a symbol of quality. People
wear cashmere and feel they’re wearing something comfortable, something that should be taken care of. It’s not something that I want to throw away. I buy cashmere, I’ll be careful because it’s pricey and I will want to choose the right one and take care of my cashmere. What are some other reasons? It’s a rarer material. It’s harder to get than polyester, wool, or any other cotton. Every year, the production is limited by the number of goats. There are fewer cashmere goats then regular sheep in the world, because the cashmere goats are only in specific areas. The cashmere from our goats come from Inner Mongolia. This maybe the best place for cashmere because the goats are in their natural environment where they’re supposed to live, so they make the best down. Every year, we’re focusing on getting the best down from the best goats. Are you introducing anything new this season? We have a new collection named Estheme Studio, and it’s developed with a good designer in France. She was working with a lot of big brands before doing this. All the products have more details. They’re more high-end, classier. It’s a different feeling. Estheme Studio is big news for us because we’re really reaching another level, design-wise.
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Cool! Who is this designer? Her name is Sylvie. She’s experienced. She knows a lot of people, and she’s working to push us to another level. Everything is still Estheme, but the Studio name is just to differentiate this little collection that is quite different and more stylish. Any other news? We’re also launching five models in 100 percent organic cashmere. They’re available in four colors— the colors of the down of the goats that hasn’t been tainted by any [dyes]. The color of the down comes straight from the goats. Sounds like sustainability is important. I think in the future we’re going more and more in this direction. We will have more organic models in and more maybe sustainable packaging, things like that. Estheme it’s a family business. From the management to all the employees, we’re really passionate about what we do. This is important because we can see it in all the creations. We’re not a big multibillion dollar company. We’re a humansize company that is detail-oriented and loving what we do. What other ways does Estheme keep its designs fresh? Every year we print different designs on our sweaters. Some years, we work with artists who paint something. We’ll photograph it and then print it on our cashmere. Depending on the year, we work with many different artists. Did you always want to work in fashion? No. I went to business school in France, then worked abroad for a few years and ended up here. But I’m still doing marketing and communication work that was related to my diploma and my studies. I’m also doing more design and creative things, regarding creation of photographs and lookbooks, things like that. Was there a learning curve to joining the fashion industry? My mom had a multibrand store, so I knew a little bit but not too much. I think we’re all still learning, everyone in our office!
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Sweater
www.estheme.com instagram.com/esthemecachemire
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The Fall ’20 collection is a mix of jewel tones and custom detailed prints.
Southern
Charm
Marie Oliver started in 2014 as a total career pivot for the brand’s founder and creative director, Sarah Doggett Evenson, who launched the line with her husband, far from NYC’s fashion scene…in North Carolina. Evenson fills us in. By ARIA DARCELLA
What’s your background? I’ve always loved fashion and had creative inclinations, but it wasn’t my first career. After a quick, successful career in finance, I decided “now or never” and gave in to a longtime desire to start a collection. I was energized by the challenge of something totally new and foreign. My business background has been crucial; I always knew we could hire and build a team to help execute our vision but couldn’t hire someone to run our business. How has your line evolved since its launch? Our debut collection was inspired by a vintage caftan, translated into seven pieces we still reference in our collections today. Early collections solely had silk charmeuse, which prints and color look vibrant on. While silk is still a focus, we’ve expanded to include knits, cottons, and jacquards and in Fall ’20
outerwear. We’ve stayed committed to our key design tenants—unexpected prints, effortless silhouettes, and the importance of color. What have you learned about the fashion business? It’s truly not for the faint of heart! While it may seem quite glamorous from the outside, there’s an immeasurable amount of hard work and grit required to succeed. Offering creative, unique collections is key, but everything brands do before and after each collection drops really determines their success. What advice would you give yourself when you started? I’d tell myself it’s a marathon, not a sprint. If it doesn’t feel right, it likely isn’t. Invest in your people; your team will always be your greatest asset. What have you learned about yourself since starting Marie Oliver? Where do I begin!? “Fully rested” is overrated, sleep
deprived is a way of life, and I’m a kung fu master in multitasking. On a more serious level, l’ve found a deeper determination than ever before, which keeps me grounded and focused despite a neverending to-do list and whirlwind of daily obstacles. Also, as our team has grown, I’ve learned the power of delegating. What’s it like working with your husband, Peter? It’s unbelievably rewarding, challenging, and complex, all at once! From the beginning, Peter and I very intentionally defined our respective responsibilities. When we overlap, it’s about collaboration, not answering to each other. We wholeheartedly respect each other and continually commit ourselves to giving each other the space we need to succeed. Balancing our work and personal lives is particularly challenging at this stage in the business. However, celebrating the highs and mourning the lows together, has only made us a more united team. How do you create your signature prints? Prints have always been at the heart of Marie Oliver and personally my favorite part of design. Each season, color and print are the first steps in our design process. Early collaborations and concepting meetings with our print designers often inspire and offer direction to the whole collection. Most of our print designers have been with Marie Oliver since our earliest seasons, and have grown to be an extension of our design team. What inspired your latest collection? Fall ’20 was inspired by the idea of finding the romance in autumn. We’ve mixed jewel tones and electric brights, weighted by earthy neutrals, to create a rich transseasonal palette relevant for the season, but also living long after the leaves fall. Our prints are graphic, expressive, and with an element of the unexpected. Also, we expanded outerwear this season with suede, wool, and vegan faux fur. We’re excited about the addition of “Made in Italy” knits to the collection; Italy is synonymous with quality and design. You’re based in North Carolina. What’s the style scene like there? Being in Greensboro, rather than a fashion hub, allows us to focus and define what success really means for us rather than being shackled by what others are doing in the industry. We have the space we need, figuratively and literally, to be creative and think outside the box about how to navigate and grow the business. What are you looking forward to at Coterie? I still get anxious and nervous each time we launch a new collection, partially anticipation and partially an irrational fear of “what if.” Despite weeks of prep, as our business has grown, I think my nerves have only worsened. But getting feedback on a new collection is so gratifying and motivating; a pat on the back for an amazing collection out the door, and a kick in the rear to motivate you for the next. What’s your dream product category? Shoes. Aside from a personal obsession, I’d love to dress the Marie Oliver woman from head to toe. Shoes require a great deal of engineering, and a superb manufacturing partner. It’s a totally different process than our core business, but hopefully one day!
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Fur
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No one does fur quite like Pologeorgis. Now in its 60th year of business, the heritage furrier is taking on new challenges and courting new customers around the world. THE DAILY caught up with the brand’s director of PR, JENNY ROBERTS, to learn all about the new collection and what’s next for this powerhouse brand. The Fall 2020 collection is quite sporty. What was the inspiration? We loved the idea of sporty looks like parkas, sweatshirts, jean jackets, and bombers with luxe touches like fur linings and hoods. It’s all about combining style and function, comfort and ease, to create an effortless look. Our half-zip pullover is made with a nubby shearling that can take you from Silicon Valley to Vail, and our jackets were designed with fabric outer-zip pockets, reminiscent of traditional sporty styles, and finished with leather trims and drawstrings. Tell us about the playful prints and colors in this collection! We have reversible styles, with a solid color on one side and a playful, unexpected print on the other. We’ve also developed our own unique prints from scratch. One of our favorites is a custom floral print that we developed based on an antique fabric swatch. It’s vintage-inspired but reimagined in a modern way. We digitized the print and blew it
up so the flowers really pop, then we printed it on a high-tech, weatherproof fabric and used it on a micro-down puffer coat, which gives all the warmth of down without the bulk. We’re also referencing menswear prints and fabrics, and making them more subtle and feminine, with herringbone, plaids, and tweed. And animal prints are always a best seller for us. Leopard goes with everything! This season, we added in a little color to make it less traditional. There’s also lots of shearling and lambskin. Shearling is a huge category for us, and such a versatile fabric. It can be smooth, sleek, and shiny, which is great for more fitted silhouettes, or it can be shaggy and fun, for ’70s chubbies with an Almost Famous vibe. The back can be a super soft suede or a glossy Napa leather. You can even weave it like wool, which makes it perfect for cardigans and soft jackets. Our patchwork shearlings are a more affordable option, and our more classic shearling pieces, like our bombers and hooded duffle coats with horn closures.
Any material or tech innovations Pologeorgis is working on? We always try to make the collection as wearable as possible, so our fabrics are weather- and windproof and our fur liners often easily zip in and out. Our new weatherproof shells are made to fit over shearlings, like an overcoat. It’s a reinvention of an old idea, but they’re stylish enough to be worn on their own. For years, one of our top sellers has been a reversible, fur-lined raincoat. Now we have this fully weatherproof little topper made out of lightweight fabric that can be folded down into its own little pouch for easy travel. This is also our first time working with corduroy, which we’ve elevated with fur linings and trims. What are your best sellers? Our classic shearling styles always do really well, as do our accessories, including our chunky wool knit beanies, fingerless gloves and mittens, fur-trimmed shawls, and stoles with furry front pockets. Every year, we also bring in new colors for our popular knitted fur pompom hats. This year, we’ve got lots of grays, earthy neutrals, and our ever-popular classics—navy, optic white, and ebony. This is your eighth year showing at Coterie. Why do you keep coming back? Coterie is the best place to reconnect with existing customers and meet new clients. The exposure we get at this show is far-reaching, from the best stores in the U.S. to international boutiques in Japan, Korea, and around the globe. Pologeorgis also has a robust made-to-measure custom business, right? We actually have one of the largest factories in the industry for producing fur, shearling, and fabric garments by hand, and we’ve been using the same tried-and-tested techniques in our custom creations for decades. Clients can select the type of fur or shearling they want, colors, linings, closures, etc. and our experienced pattern makers will take all their measurements and create the piece of their dreams. What’s your favorite celebrity fur moment? Anything Rihanna does is genius. I mean, she can make anything look incredible. I love the pink fox boa she wore with that completely sheer crystal Adam Selman dress at the 2014 CFDA Awards. What pieces are popular among your celeb clients? Iris Apfel is one of our favorite clients. She always says more is more and less is boring, so she has no problem taking risks and is up for literally anything in terms of color and furs—from tie-dye Mongolian lambskin to bright red longhair goat.
courtesy
Pieces from the Pologeorgis Fall 2020 collection, available at Coterie Booth #6916.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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SPRING 2020
Veronica M LOS ANGELES
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COTERIE EDITION
Anniversaire
Suited This year, Elie Tahari celebrates 45 years of dressing women for myriad occasions. The designer talks The Daily through his namesake brand’s success, from its 1975 debut on a famous dance floor (Studio 54, bien sûr) to become synonymous with stylish work attire for legions of loyal fans. By aria darcellA
You’re a go-to designer for women in need of chic office attire. But the past few years have seen a relaxing of dress codes in the workplace, across many industries. How are you navigating the evolution of business casual into…casual, while still offering pieces that look professional? I’m thrilled to see the shift toward more casual, fun, personal clothing in the office, and that’s why we’ve tailored our collection to appeal to the woman who has the confidence to explore colors and patterns instead of just grays and blacks.
What is never appropriate fashion-wise in the boardroom? It’s ironic, but even though I popularized it, a tube top should never be worn in the office. How do people dress in your offices? Everyone wears the collection with their own personal flair. You’re known for amazing suits. What are some tips for finding the perfect blazer fit? I’d start by identifying the type of tailoring that you want and then finding a fabric that is flexible with that idea. The tailoring of a blazer is the most
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important aspect though; it has to fit the shoulders perfectly. Your first fashion show was held at Studio 54. Why did you choose that location? The minute I stepped inside Studio 54, it just felt right. It’s so iconic, and I wanted the debut of my brand to have a true fashion moment. Looking back on that first collection, what are you most proud of? I’m proud that I understood that every woman views herself differently and wants her true beauty to shine through and speak more loudly than the clothes. What do you wish you could tell yourself back when you were first starting your own brand? I’d say, be patient. Hard work pays off. It’s hard to believe that it’s been 45 years since my launch. How has the current brick-and-mortar department store climate changed your business, and do you think the IRL shopping experience is still an important way to reach your customers? Absolutely. I have customers and friends who stop by every month to see what’s new. Customers enjoy trying clothes in person. The website is great for convenience and discovery, but nothing beats touching something and experiencing the brand in person. Is there a difference between selling to a department store and selling to an e-tailer? Every account buys the collection differently based on what they know is right for their customers. In what ways can the remaining department stores thrive? The in-store experience is important. Every store needs to give its customers new reasons to come in. The legacy store brands have loyal followings. Tell us about your Fall 2020 collection! What can we expect to see this season? We’ve really evolved over the past few seasons, and Fall 2020 is a great example of a modern and fresh take on the brand. This collection is inspired by Edward Hopper’s interpretations of American life, so the collection features many of the rich and moody hues this artist was known for. Of course, always striking the perfect balance between function and style, the pieces can be worn immediately or saved for later in the season.
gary golembiewski (1); all others courtesy
Elie Tahari, flanked by looks from his Fall 2020 collection
MAKE THE FIRST MOVE.
NEVER SECOND GUESS IT.
Find real connection. Even in a city this big.
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Shoe
Savant
Best Foot Forward
Leslie Gallin, president of footwear at Informa Markets, knows shoes better than anyone. So obviously, she’s the best person to fill us in on how to care for our footwear. Gallin also offers some fabulous tips on how to get the most out of your shoe collection, how to travel in style, and more!
This season, Coterie and Sole Commerce overlap with NYFW. How will this benefit your vendors? The timing is super. Why? Because it offers many retailers who would normally not have been in New York during Coterie the opportunity to visit and seek out amazing footwear, which will help drive uniqueness for their stores. What’s new at Sole Commerce this season? We’re excited about the brands we have in both Sole Commerce and Footwear@Coterie. This season at Footwear@Coterie, which is our curated selection of footwear, we’ll see brands such as Toral and Paloma Barcelo from Spain, and Atlantic Stars and Flower Mountain from Italy. At Sole Commerce, we’re excited to see what Paula Torres, Camper, and Sam Edelman will be highlighting this season. We have a sold-out show! Buyers will be treated to an amazing assortment of footwear for the upcoming season. What trends should buyers keep an eye out for? For women, we’re seeing “comfort” driving the selections, with lower heels, sock booties, embellished sneakers, and new twists on classics. We’re seeing more casual styles being worn with dresses and suiting—a more youthful take on dressing today. Statement tights made a big splash at the recent couture shows in Paris. What are some great shoes to pair with a statement tight? Booties, and embellished or classic sneakers!
How often do you travel for work? Ha! I try not to think about it. I believe it’s at least two weeks a month. Do you have any expert packing tips? For sure. Here’s a holdover tip from my days in the garment biz: I roll my clothes in plastic. This keeps them from wrinkling, and helps to label what’s being worn on what day. Brilliant. How many pairs of shoes do you usually bring with you? My feet are shot. I joke and say they’re like tires on a car—we should all get new ones after a certain number of years! But seriously, I do take a different pair of shoes for the number of days or outfits. Where I can, I try to rotate. How are you treating yourself this Valentine’s Day? Because I will be flying back home on the 14th after about two weeks of trade shows, I’ll be looking forward to getting home, seeing my husband, three cats, and going out to our local Italian restaurant for a quiet dinner with friends. What’s your go-to pedicure color? Funny you should ask…I’ve always gone for a red, vamp color. But recently, the salon I go to turned me on to a French white, and I’m loving it. What’s your ultimate spa treatment? Hands down, the Thai treatment at Encore at Wynn Las Vegas.
What song gets you on your feet on the dance floor? “Gonna Make You Sweat (Everybody Dance Now),” by C+C Music Factory. Truthfully, anything peppy! How do you organize your shoes at home? Do you keep them in the original boxes, or do you use dust bags? This is like the question about boxers or briefs! I do like to keep my boxes and label them. I had some closets built with pullout drawers, so in there are all shoes, all the time. I use dust bags for travel. How many pairs of shoes do you own? If I told you the number of shoes, I’d self-destruct. Do you have any tips for keeping them in tip-top shape? My father was a marine. He taught me to always keep your shoes shined and heels maintained. It’s a sign of how a person respects themselves. What the worst foot injury you’ve ever had? Breaking a toe! And bunions. What shoes would you wear if comfort and/or potential injury were no concern? Well, of course I have my going-to-dinner shoes. Four inches would be the max. I’ve always preferred beautiful, unusual shoes. How many steps do you think you take when walking the Sole Commerce floor? At each show I do monitor. I’m amazed—more than 10,000 steps daily. If you were a shoe, what would you be? If I were a shoe, I’d be the perfect fit.
jenna bascom (3); keith macdonald (2); all others courtesy
By ARIA DARCELLA
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COTERIE EDITION
Nicky Hilton Rothschild is returning to Sole
Commerce this season with her latest collection for French Sole, and to share her extensive kicks knowledge on The Daily’s panel discussion. Ahead, some intel on her latest designs, her pedicure habits, and the shoe trend she’s so over.
jenna bascom (3); keith macdonald (2); all others courtesy
You’re part of our panel at Sole Commerce! Do you ever get nervous speaking in public? I used to, but I’ve gotten better. I’m really excited about this panel, because I usually don’t know the other panelists or the moderator; it’s not as natural. Doing this panel with Tina [Craig], who’s one of my best friends, and Aliza [Licht], who I’ve known forever from the industry—I think there will be a lot of funny storytelling. It’s going to be like eavesdropping on a Sunday brunch! Did you ever see your love of fashion turning into a job? Yes, definitely. I was always interested in fashion. My first internship was at a magazine, and I loved picking up the samples, going on the shoots, eavesdropping on the styling. Why are you drawn to ultra-feminine designs? I’m a girly girl, and I always have been. I don’t think I have an ounce of tomboy in me. I have always liked a feminine, pretty aesthetic. What’s your go-to pedicure color? I mix Essie shades—Ballet Slippers on the bottom, and Mademoiselle on top. Have you ever done your own pedicure? No. I know my strengths! Although I did see my daughter painting my other daughter’s toenails the other day, and it was pretty cute. Do their personalities come through when you dress them up? Absolutely. It’s crazy. My two-year-old is opinionated about what she wants to wear. Right now, they’re running around in matching Elsa Frozen dresses. They like matching. My sister and I loved matching too when we were little. Do you have any fashion regrets? I used to think that all those logo outfits were so cheesy, but now it’s all the rage. I find it so funny how history repeats itself. Do you think the oversize sneaker trend is going to continue? I mean, when is it going to end? It’s so ugly. It’s been going strong a few years now. I don’t get it. What shoe trend do you hope takes its place? Hopefully a great, classic, chic, sustainable sneaker. [Veja sneakers] are canvas, sustainable, and super chic. They sort of look like Keds. I also love how the shoe industry is becoming super socially conscious. I’m actually looking at a bunch of eco-friendly materials right now so I can do something more sustainable.
What sustainable choices do you make on a day-to-day basis? Certainly rewearing things. And I never accept a shopping bag, plastic bag, or grocery bag; I’ll always hold it or put it in my purse. Also, I purchase sustainable brands. My friend Amanda Hearst has a great website, Maison de Mode, where they sell only sustainable brands. Tell us about the latest iteration of your French Sole collab! It’s very feminine. Lots of cotton-candy-colored pastels, laser cuts, and bows. The collection is mostly made in Spain, so it’s really beautifully made. It’s what I live in—ballet flats and loafers. When did you start wearing French Sole? I’ve been wearing French Sole since I was in high school. I went to an all-girls Catholic private school on the Upper East Side with a strict uniform. No makeup, no nail polish; our only way of expressing ourselves was through our footwear. I stumbled upon French Sole’s flagship on Lexington [Avenue] and immediately fell in love with their flats. I just thought they were so well made, pretty, and well priced. I went from being a customer to a collaborator. It’s come full circle. Do you stop by the boutique when your latest designs drop? Absolutely. Whenever I’m doing meetings or appointments on the Upper East Side, I’ll pop into the store, say hi to the owner, get feedback from the sales floor on how the collection is doing, and which styles customers are gravitating toward. Do you think the future of women’s shoes will be all about flats? More women are wearing flats, even sneakers; it’s becoming completely acceptable for eveningwear. I think the rules of fashion don’t even really exist anymore. Anything goes. But for me personally, I live in ballet flats. My everyday look is skinny jeans, a blazer, and ballet flats; now, as the mother of two toddlers, that’s has never been more true. The ballet flat is the equivalent to a sneaker for me. It’s much more polished and chic. They’re comfortable, pretty, and there’s nothing sloppy about them. Did your mother pass down her ideas of fashion to you? I definitely got the ballet flat bug from my mom. I remember her picking me up from school, always wearing a Chanel ballet flat, in the ’90s.
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Must
COTERIE EDITION
Follow
Influencer
IDALIA SALSAMENDI
CHRISTIE FERRARI
TEZZA BARTON
WENDY NGUYEN
How to stand out and succeed in a crowded influencer landscape: “There has to be a distinct focus on individuality, and in order for that to really come to life, the influencer has to have an honest conversation with themselves about what makes them truly unique. Brands are becoming less and less interested in just a pretty picture, or the ‘perfect life’…they want to see something that’s real, because at the end of the day that realness is what makes followers connect with an influencer, thus encouraging trust and potentially a sale of a product. If someone thinks they have nothing ‘unique’ about them, they should think about what they’re passionate about and use that voice to advocate a cause.”
On melding a psychology career, passion for fashion, and social media following: “For some time, I tried to keep my worlds as separate as possible. Then I began integrating mental health and psychology, but still realized it was rather abrupt, or separate. I kept asking myself, ‘How can I bring these things together?’ That’s when I started researching and becoming more attuned with ‘enclothed cognition’: the research, data, and studies behind how fashion and clothing make us feel. It aids in how others perceive us, and what persona we can put forth based on our wardrobe selection. Then there’s the mental health component of fashion—such as feeling confident and coping with anxiety.”
Forecasting the future of influencing: “I’m sure the name influencer will shift or vanish and the line between ‘media’ and ‘social media’ will blur or completely fade away. Social media stars are becoming just as big if not bigger than stars in traditional media, so I think the industry will continue to be taken more seriously and become even more ingrained in our day-to-day. This is especially true as the world continues to come even more online and smartphones are more accessible to everyone. Who knows? Maybe in 10 years we’ll become holograms, or be connecting with our communities via virtual reality. The sky’s the limit.”
Major industry shifts in the past five years, plus 2020 predictions: “There have been so many opportunities for people to be entrepreneurs and self-starters. The barrier to entry is quite low. With just a computer and camera, and a lot of grit and discipline, people can start their own business. The biggest negative change is the levels of anxiety that social media has contributed to. There will be more long-term brand collaborations with content creators. These collabs will focus on aligned values, transparency, and community-driven stories. You’ll see more content creators branching out to other interests, like creating their own brands or starting podcasts. Finally, with Instagram hiding likes, I think you’ll see more authentic content.”
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Ever wondered how influencers kick off their careers, do their jobs, and measure success? You’re in luck! Coterie and The Daily have teamed up on an exclusive panel to enlighten you on all that and more, featuring Idalia Salsamendi, Christie Ferrari, Tezza Barton, and Wendy Nguyen, plus moderator Beca Alexander, founder of Socialyte. Ahead, a sneak peek at the pearls of wisdom our panelists have in store. See you at the Coterie Live Stage in the Javits Center on Wednesday, February 12, at 2:30 p.m.
courtesy
beca alexander
Intel
Who’s
COTERIE EDITION
showing
Brand Champion
Agent R.E.D.’s head honcho, Genie Parada-Fishman is bringing her brands—and big personality—back to Coterie this season. Here, she muses to The Daily on all things fashion, style, and more.
What do you want buyers to know? All too often when reviewing a collection a buyer says, “Where is my girl wearing that? They won’t understand that. I’m playing it safe.” If you play it safe, it’s a surefire way to become obsolete. Fashion is not meant to play it safe. Fashion is meant to be exciting. We can’t live our lives in safe mode all the time; in the end, you will end up with regrets. What’s your biggest regret? I take the perspective that you cannot have any regrets. When you know better, you do better.
What’s your approach to building a wardrobe? Don’t save anything. I use it all. Use it until it’s completely tattered and shredded. And then get a new one and repeat. People save their best and then it ends up that they never use it and it doesn’t fit it’s not relevant to their life, so when you acquire it, enjoy it. Any other philosophies you have? I don’t believe in special occasions. I think every day is a special occasion. Putting on a piece of clothing that makes you feel good gives you a whole new perspective on life. It’s an instant mood lifter.
all images courtesy
What’s on your mind these days? Many times trends and what actually looks good on a person are two different things. This is where you risk being a fashion victim. I always opt for things that look good on me, not necessarily what is trendy. Don’t be a victim of changing tastes and fads. Be true to your own style and you will always look great. What is your style? For me, style came later in life. I always loved fashion and the most unique outrageous pieces, but I didn’t always know how to put them together. I always put too much pressure on figuring out what the outfit was. Now I’m much more comfortable with myself and with putting together pieces without it looking contrived. Describe an exciting fashion moment! Meeting Iris Apfel at the last UBM event and buying pieces from her personal jewelry closet! Iris is every bit as fabulous in person! Where is your home base? Williamsburg, Brooklyn. We have the most eclectic array of people and the energy is absolutely constant any time of day or night. New York is all about vibrant life and I love it. What makes a woman sexy? Her confidence. If she’s confident, she can wear anything, pull it off, look fabulous, and feel fabulous. It’s not about the trends or the latest item outfit. It’s about how you feel from the inside. What keeps you going? I have an innate, exorbitant energy level. Everything excites me. I have an unquenchable thirst to know to learn, to see, to experience every day. I am naturally driven and have an unquenchable thirst for life. Interesting. I don’t believe in filters. Life is unfiltered. It’s raw and real, and there are no touch-ups. It is what it is. Embrace it.
Editorial Promotion
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RED-HOT NAMES TO KNOW XCVI
Capote
Want to see Agent R.E.D. International’s brands for yourself? Here’s where to find them on the floor of Coterie this season!
xcvi
Coterie, Booth #7739, Level 3
capote
Coterie, Booth #7734, Level 3
ARATTA
all images courtesy
Coterie, Booth #7733, Level 3
Aratta
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Who’s
showing
who’s This season, Coterie and NYFW will overlap, making it easier than ever for Fashion Week attendees to explore the trade show. If you’re making your way over to the Javits Center, be sure to check out these brands!
MAURITIUS Coterie, Booth #7726, Level 3 Lyn Baskett, CEO of North America What’s new this season? A number of novelty styles—a peace sign on the back of a leather coming in three colors; a leather jacket with an amazing finish to make it look like a worn jean jacket; stars and patches that say “My life, my rules” and “Not sorry”; a leather jacket in silver foil. Finally, lots of color! Red, green, teal, blue, gold, cognac, brown, and raisin—almost every color you can imagine, all in 100 percent leather. What would you love to produce one day? We keep working on the perfect blazer, in leather, of course! What are your business goals? I want to work with reps who don’t carry 10 lines! There may be too many lines in the market and too few reps, but reps cannot do justice to a line when they’re focusing in all directions. I want to put my focus on those who can focus on success and work with us to build it. Do you have any packing tips? I leave my suitcase packed with the stuff I need for every trip and keep it there. I repurpose key outfits. This means I never start packing from an empty suitcase in the busy times! What are your favorite cities to hit up? Amsterdam for the shopping, and proximity to Bruges; also Porto, Portugal, for the feeling of getting away to another world to recharge.
PLANET BY LAUREN G Coterie, Booth #6664, Level 3 Lauren Grossman, Owner & Designer Do you have a dream product category? I would love to one day develop a Planet home division. I’d like to make sheets, throws, and pillows. I can envision myself and others cozying up with a Planet throw and a Planet pillow. What has been your favorite red carpet look from the recent award shows? Jennifer Aniston in a simple white silk charmeuse slip dress. I believe less is more and loved her minimalistic look. She didn’t wear too much makeup or jewelry. A pretty girl with a great figure doesn’t need to look like a Christmas tree. Did you ever shop at Barneys? I never left without a package. It was my go-to place for shoes, bags, and jewelry. They always showcased up-and-coming designers with an edgy style. I will definitely miss the ease of shopping under one roof, and having lunch at Fred’s. The environment was so well curated. How do you feel about Hudson Yards? It’s nice to have new places to see and experience right in your neighborhood. This is where the entire staff of Planet stays. Did you make any resolutions for the new decade? To have good health and keep on keeping on. Planet’s business has been increasing in volume annually. I want to keep moving forward. It has been an incredible journey.
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COTERIE EDITION
CAVANAGH BAKER Coterie, Booth #6355, Level 3 Cavanagh Baker, Owner & Designer How is business lately? Our pant suits have been popular among our celebrity clientele, and this season we’re dropping some fabulous new pantsuit options. We also have new coat silhouettes that can be worn as a blazer or a dress. Seen any eye-catching celeb looks recently? Zendaya in Tom Ford’s metal breast-plated top and skirt. A perfect example that to be unique and a fashion designer doesn’t mean over the top and overdesigned. What’s your fave Barneys memory? My first time to NYC, Barneys had a Lady Gaga popup shop on the top floor, and I absolutely loved it. It saddens me that an iconic fashion department store known to embrace emerging luxury designers will no longer be around. What’s your travel beauty routine? My most valuable item I pack is facial moisturizers. I use Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench Hyaluronic Cloud Cream and Josie Maran Pure Argan Milk. With all the flying I do, they help keep my face hydrated. Any big life plans coming up? I believe I will be getting my first tattoo on Valentine’s Day!
VERONICA M Coterie, Booth #5834, Level 3 Veronica Ferrer, Founder
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What’s new this season? This spring, I’m really concentrating on tops for work and date night, because my customers keep asking for more! You’ll also see lots of beautiful florals and geoprints in my booth. Do you have a dream product category? I love to work out, so I think a workout or athleisure line could be in the works eventually. Which celebrity red carpet look caught your eye this year? J. Lo! She always looks 110 percent! I loved the oversize bow on the gown she wore to the Golden Globes. Will you be checking out Hudson Yards? It’s my one-stop-shop after the shows! I especially love Mercado Little Spain on the lower level. Any resolutions for the new decade? To spend more quality time with my family and friends. How often do you travel for work? More than six times a year. I always overpack! I recently visited Buenos Aires, and it quickly became one of my favorite cities. This place really humbled me and made me see what is beautiful in life.
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NEMOZENA Coterie, Booth #6225, Level 3 Design team When and where was Nemozena founded? In 2017, between Dubai—where the founder is based and where the brand story, strategy, and collection inspiration are developed—and Milan, where the collection is designed, styled, and produced. What drives the aesthetic? Female empowerment. The brand mission is to cater to women’s desires with timeless luxury essentials and simultaneously showcase the creativity and brilliance of female individuals around the world. Tell us about the Spring 2020 collection! It’s a visionary flourish of iridescent effects, colorcoatings, origami pleats, and techno wool, while an injection of bolder and more opulent fuchsia and midnight blue are paired with sensual sky blue and mauve, offering an abrupt organic departure for the new season. Sounds gorgeous! What inspired that? Both the deserts and dreams found within the heart of a Moroccan spice souk.… There’s an appreciation of craft, and an amalgamation of cross-cultural elements, encapsulating a modern yet classical twist of balancing the old with the new.
WOODEN SHIPS
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What have you been working on lately? We have been perfecting new techniques and patterns to bring a fresh look for Fall/Winter 2020. The skull trend is huge for us right now, and we have a lot of these incorporated into our collection. Would you ever expand to other categories? I can’t imagine designing anything other than sweaters! I live in cozy, soft, yummy sweaters when it’s cold out. They’re such a big part of my life, and I love to share them with customers. Did you make any resolutions for the new year? I’ve always loved to travel, and am looking forward to visiting places I’ve never been in 2020. I’m often in New York City and Rome, but every year I explore new places. This year I’ll be exploring Costa Rica and will for sure be bringing our cotton beach sweaters! What were some of your favorites from last year? Athens and Havana.
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Coterie, Booth #7575, Level 3 Paola Buendia, Co-Founder/Designer
Awakened. Empowered. Connected. Human.
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Your COTERIE shopping list has arrived! Agent R.E.D. International
is bringing to show you all that will be needed in store for 2020!
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gent R.E.D. International Founder, Genie ParadaFishman is well known and respected in the industry for editing a diverse offering of brands that not only create and produce a product of exceptional quality and design, they somehow manage to do it at an incredible price while being the ultimate partner to their retailers. That’s what it takes to be a part of the Agent R.E.D. world.
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In the seemingly superficial world of fashion we quickly find that “Being dressed well is powerful. Clothing is transforming.” Every costume change brings about a new perspective and attitude. The ultimate excitement is to find pieces you love that make you feel good and empower you to dress for any role in your multi-faceted life.
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It’s also important to understand that trends and what actually looks good on a person can be two different things. This is where you risk being a fashion victim. Always opt for things that look good on you, not what is necessarily trendy. Be true to your style and you will always look great.
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It’s the designers challenge every single season to recreate desirable must-haves that pervade a fad. XCVI, Capote, and Aratta create beautiful, well made product that is easily wearable, comfortable and striking. Whether it’s the print, the styling, or the special fabrics and details, each brand has a signature look that makes it a “must have” that will be a go-to in your customers wardrobe for years to come. We asked our roster of creators what’s next for Fall 2020.
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Capote has garnered a Cult following for its consistently exciting approach to casual and very chic pieces.
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Capote’s versatile items offer coziness and comfort while being grand and luxurious with its magnificent faux fur trims, which look and feel so real it’s almost unbelieved that they are not! Creative Director and Founder Evelyn Riddle is a trained tailor, so her fits are extremely important. She wants a woman to look and feel her best. Her clothes offer strategic draping so as to flatter and hide as necessary… the ladies that wear Capote come back every season to see how the collection evolves so they can continue to enhance their wardrobe with additional must have pieces. BOOTH #7734 Instagram @capotecollection
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WE SAT DOWN WITH DANIELA ZELTZER, FOUNDING FAMILY MEMBER AND MARKETING DIRECTOR OF XCVI TO DISCUSS HER BRAND. What does XCVI stand for and how did the brand come about? XCVI was founded in 1996 (or XCVI in roman numerals) from the back of a mom-and-pop clothing boutique on Melrose Avenue. Together with designer Lilia Gorodnitski, the Zeltzer family manifested a shared vision of casual clothing that enrich women’s lives with joy and ease. What is the misson of XCVI? Our clothing isn’t made to be worn on the runway, or to be meticulously styled for hours. Our clothing isn’t disposable fast-fashion, and we are not trend obsessed. XCVI is committed to making casual contemporary clothes for REAL women, who want clothing for REAL life. What does XCVI promise to its consumers? For nearly 25 years, we’ve continued to develop wearable, breathable, movable clothing for women who believe that style should not compromise comfort. XCVI is all about high quality, stylish clothing meant for busy schedules in the face of “I have five places to be in one hour” challenges. What is the Difference between XCVI and Wearables? XCVI and Wearables are well known for offering product that any woman can wear – regardless of age and body type. Wearables is the go-to for staples and XCVI for the novel, special pieces with more elaborate detail.
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What do you want your consumers to know about XCVI? XCVI is fashion you can live in every day of your life. BOOTH # 7739 Instagram @@xcviofficial
“I am woman hear me roar” echos in Aratta’s distinctive, handcrafted styles. All prints and details are conceptualized by Susanna Karapetyan, whose magical hand is intimately involved in every piece. Her “more is more” philosophy brings a joyful exuberance to her designs. You can’t help but being happy to gaze at her bright patterns, artfully pieced together. “My woman is not the wallflower. She is the one who naturally makes a grand entrance with her style. She is not afraid to wear wild color and pattern all at once.” Susanna is proud to offer her playfully abundant styles to give a woman the power to be striking and noticed. BOOTH # 7733 Instagram @aratta_fashion
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Top
shelf
Ask the
Newsstand
Guy!
It’s been a hot minute since The Daily stopped by Magazine Café on West 37th Street to catch up with our buddy Manish Golchha. How are beloved glossies holding up in stores? Brace yourself… By EDDIE ROCHE Photography by hannah turner-harts
I see you have a few gray hairs since we last chatted! I just turned 40. I’m still looking good, so I’m not disappointed. How are things at the store? The store is better than ever! We did some renovations, including a new glass front. We’ve also added a gift section and stationery products, which is getting a great response. Besides that, the magazines are doing excellent because we’re now the only store in Midtown. We’re the only destination, so that’s helpful to us. Our competition closed down. Last man standing! The problem we’re having is we can’t keep popular magazines in stock, which is an issue. The supply chain isn’t that strong anymore for international magazines. It’s difficult to reorder. They come from overseas, and the volumes are less because they don’t want to pulp the magazines when they are left over. Shipping from Europe is expensive. Has that increased the newsstand prices of international magazines, compared to, say, five years ago? No. The prices are still the same. No one is going to pay more than $15. Obviously the international editions of French Vogue and British Vogue do well. Are any other Vogue editions doing well? The current issue of Vogue Italia is extremely hot. It’s an eco-friendly issue because there were no photo shoots. It’s basically illustrations inside, so they didn’t have to fly models to do photo shoots. People are finding the illustrations different and are taking to it. It’s cool! But I think it’s just a novelty. They had to do something different to get the eyeballs. Which American titles are flying off shelves? Vogue is always our No. 1 seller; we sell about 200–300 copies a month. V is doing very well. InStyle and Harper’s Bazaar are also doing well. Interview took a bit of a break, if I’m not mistaken. We weren’t getting it here. It’s back, but it’s not like before. It’s gone down. Maybe they skimp on the quality or there are changes in the team. Any other glossies that have dipped in sales? Porter is not doing too well. People aren’t picking it up.
Golchha surrounds himself with a large selection of titles at Magazine Café in Midtown.
Is Jennifer Aniston still selling like hotcakes? Not really. Taylor Swift does unbelievably well. Beyoncé is on every fourth cover. J. Lo [sells] once in awhile. Gwyneth Paltrow still does well. How are the tabloids doing? Is Meghan Markle your favorite person now because she sells so many magazines? Yes! I would like her to be in controversy forever! The tabloids are okay. There are less than before. How are the indies doing? Lula Magazine has gone down. iD, LOVE, Pop, and Dazed & Confused are all selling pretty well. How many copies of System do you sell a month? We used to sell way more before, but we sell 30 to 40 copies a month. What’s the hottest new title? Cabana has exploded out of nowhere. It’s become a raging-hot magazine. They always have different covers with a text [heavy] feel with different designs. We can’t keep enough of them on our shelves. We sold 1,000 copies of one of the issues. People love collecting them. What’s your favorite magazine to read? Numéro Homme is pretty interesting for men’s fashion. Besides that, I love gadgets, so I love Stuff. Any gadgets we should know about? Besides self-driving cars? Foldable phones are coming! We noticed you’re selling greeting cards now. We always have, but we’ve expanded our section. We also
have a seasonal table of curated gifts. You can get a sexy truth-or-dare game. You pick a stick and then you have to play truth or dare. All the dares have to be sexy. You’ve gotten really racy here at Magazine Café! Why not? Life is short! How’s the adult section doing? It’s mostly visited by aged 60-plus males! It’s for people who don’t have access to online porn. Otherwise, nobody’s looking at them anymore. There used to be a French Playboy-style magazine called Lui and we used to sell a ton of them, but they shut down. What else is new? We’re selling calendars and stationery. We started two months ago and people love it. How did you find the real estate in the store for calendars and stationery? This is where the men’s magazine section used to be. And now it has stationery in it! I think that says it all. We’re also now selling puzzles. They’re a big hit with all the tourists! Also, pens and bags. We want to be a stationery store and a magazine store! We also have a section where we’re selling old magazines for $5. Why do you think things have changed so much in magazines? People can get access to content on their smartphones. Print isn’t going to die. It will always have a place. The market has shrunk, but people still like having a magazine to hold in their hands. We’re seeing things stabilize.
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Find your perfect fit at LIMcollege.edu/NYC
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