february 2019
influencer
intel
lim alum aLyssa coscarelli dishes!
runway looks to
covet
right now
IS print really dead?
lim
college STUDENT EDITION
the season’s hautest hues…
Sun for days!
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EDITORs’Letter
The Fame game getty images
fierce beauty Gigi Hadid at the Savage x Fenty Spring 2019 show
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Editor in Chief
Sabrina Talbert
In previous LIM editions of The Daily Front Row, we’ve strived to define the roles of an influencer. As fashion and media continue to work as a dynamic duo, influencers are breaking the boundaries that come with the label. We chatted with writer and influencer Alyssa Coscarelli (also a LIM alumni!) about life after digital editorial at Refinery29 and establishing herself on social media. And in this special insert, students from LIM College analyze the future of media. We opened up the conversation to our student body, to find out whether the growth of technology has hindered the print industry’s ability to satisfy the modern-day consumer. Discuss! Plus! Over the dreary cold? So are we! Check out our Aspen Gold Chic Musts to see how designers are bringing the warmth to the runways and heating up your wardrobe. Enjoy! The Editors
Managing Editor Victoria Montalti Editorial Director Pearl Dorman Fashion Editors Raven McAndrew, Ryan McDevitt, Abdias Myrtil Market Editors Kate Majeskie, Yusra Siddiqui News Editor Thea Pekarek LIM Publication Supervisor Prof. John Deming Daily Consulting Team Creative Director Dean Quigley Contributing Executive Editors Alexandra Ilyashov, Tangie Silva Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Photo Editor Hannah Turner-Harts Art Director Teresa Platt Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists George Maier, Rick Schwab
To advertise, call (646) 768-8101 Or e-mail: advertising@dailyfrontrow.com The Daily Front Row LIM College Student Edition is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright © 2019. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 810 Seventh Avenue, Ste. 400A, New York, NY 10019
On the cover: Bella Hadid at the Savage x Fenty Spring 2019 show, photographed by Getty Images.
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spring trends
we love right
Kate Spade
SCENE
What’s in right now? Content, content, content! From ruffles on runways to influencer Instagrams, this season will have no shortage of trends or hashtags. We take a look into the impact that influencers and digital media have on shaping the fashion industry and vice versa. Pyer Moss
Q&A With sam barback
FAVE SPRING SHOWS
kate spade “Nicola Glass was able to add a modern twist to traditional pieces in a bold, yet elegant format. The Kate Spade woman is classy and sophisticated but does not shy away from a strong color palette.” —Kate Majeskie
What is Grailed? Grailed is a curated marketplace for menswear with a focus on streetwear and designer clothing. How has Grailed changed the fashion market? What impact will that have? It’s never been easier to find previous season, archive, or other secondhand pieces for men. And that’s all thanks to Grailed. It’s giving millions of people not just the ability to purchase clothing they couldn’t find before, but also allowing them to learn about pieces and collections they might have never seen without it. How did you start at Grailed? I started helping Grailed with curation while I was in college, working part-time to make the site a safer place for its users. After doing that for a while and moving to New York, I was lucky enough to get a full-time position and have been here ever since. How does Grailed verify the authenticity of the items listed? We have a team of expert moderators around the world who work 24/7 to ensure that replicas and those who sell them are eradicated from the site. Your favorite show of Paris Fashion Week? Undercover x Valentino. I need that spaceship puffer jacket!
—Raven McAndrew
Marilyn Monroe
Prime period: 1950s Monroe brought sex to the mainstream throughout her acting career spanning the 1950s. The media of the time loved to hate her, but her trademark blonde bombshell look remains iconic today.
Molly Ringwald
Prime period: 1980s This actress dominated 1980s cinema with her lead roles in The Breakfast Club and Pretty In Pink. Ringwald personified the era’s “brat pack” style.
From slick earth-toned fabrics to utilitarian structures, various shades of nude were used on the Spring ’19 runways to create monochrome masterpieces.
Feminine Flurry Ruffles, feathers, and polka dots set the tone for the season. An exaggerated spin on what is fresh and flirty ruled the shows. Billowing silhouettes and color overload are in, ladies and gents!
Surf’s Up Spring and Summer are bound to bring swimwear sportswear to the table. Models strode into swimsuit season with spandex and crocheted netting.
influencers through the ages
pyer moss “ Kerby Jean-Raymond releases yet another breathtaking collection. Beginning with the location, ending with the models and everything in between, his vision of black empowerment shined throughout “American, Also: Lesson 2.”
Monochrome Nude
Paris Hilton
Prime period: 1997–Present The influencer of all influencers. Hilton invented this job description as we know it today. She monetized her brand, creating a multi-million-dollar empire and changing celebrity culture.
Rihanna
Prime period: 2007–Present Rihanna cut her hair and brought her edge to the mainstream in 2007. She’s held powerful relevance since, especially with the launch of her Fenty Beauty in 2017.
f i r s t v i e w ( 1 3 ) ; g e t t y i m a g e s ( 4 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 2 ) ; a l l ot h e r s co u rt e sy
editorS’ PICKS! just a couple of OUR
now!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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#findLIMinNYC
Fashion. Business. Education. Find your perfect fit at LIMcollege.edu
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runwayReport
moschiNO Jeremy Scott splashed expressive scribbles throughout his entire collection. Neon pops of color combined with bold blacks, whites, and 66 pairs of graphic tights. Cheeky ’80s shoulder pads and luxe accessories tied the theatrical looks together.
chic
InSPiRATIONS
These Spring 2019 runways were filled with vibrant colors, strong silhouettes, and thrilling frills that nod to the 1980s. Empowering, warrior-worthy attire also delivered an important message. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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rick owens Owens’ collection of weaponized womenswear was a nod to the #MeToo movement. Laser-cut outerwear and brutalist jewelry shielded the models as they marched down the runway, while American flags and geometric headpieces insinuated a sort of divinity.
firstview (7)
abasi ROSBOROUGH
Designers Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough channeled a nomadic militaristic tribe with this collection. Done in black, navy, maroon, and deep green hues, the pieces culled inspiration from Japanese kimonos and African tribal garb, worn to protect against Saharan sandstorms.
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rodarte
After a two-year hiatus from NYFW, Kate and Laura Mulleavy returned with a fairy-tale fantasy in a perfect spot for a “fashion resurrection”: New York Marble Cemetery. The gloomy setting made the collection of romantic, ’80s-tinged embroidered dresses, dramatic sleeves, ruffles, and frills feel even more magical.
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NEXTAct
ace Alyssa Coscarelli, aka @alyssainthecity, is the ultimate NYC fashion influencer and writer—and a LIM alum. The former senior fashion market editor at Refinery29 dishes about the highs and lows of digital media, her experiences forming brand collaborations, and tips to live your best life—both on and off Instagram.
f i r st v i e w ( 2 ) ; g e t t y i m a g e s ( 1 ) ; a l l ot h e r s co u rt e sy
BY SABRINA TALBERT
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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“
I wish the term ‘influencer’ hadn’t become such a dirty word.”
Before launching your career, you were a merchandising major at LIM College—did your Refinery29 internship lead you toward writing? I definitely started to figure that out while I was at LIM, working on the college magazine [The Lexington Line]. It wasn’t until my internship at Refinery29 that I knew I could combine my passion for writing with my love for fashion. I have a business- and product-driven mind, especially with trendspotting, so working for Refinery29 helped in expanding my knowledge, and LIM helped in having a more in-depth knowledge of merchandise, which I was then able to use to strengthen my writing. How did you know it was time to leave Refinery29 to start a new chapter? It was such a tough decision. It was a crossroads in life; I had to weigh my options and make a lot of pros and cons lists. Ultimately, it was a combination of things. I felt my personal work slowly outweighing my Refinery work in some way, whether time-, money-, or fulfillmentwise. I was being pulled in an entrepreneurial direction. I had been at Refinery for five years, and it was such an amazing place to launch my career. I talked to a lot of friends, and I really just started picturing myself in that freelance scenario. It still took me months to get up the courage to take that leap of faith and go off on my own. Deep down, in your core, you know when something is right, and it just felt like the right decision at that time. Will you still be writing? Yes, for sure. I definitely took a bit of a break when I first left. I was a little burnt out. I had been writing a couple of stories a day every day for Refinery, and I needed a bit of a break! Come January, I’ve been pitching again. I have a couple of stories coming out for Fashionista around Copenhagen Fashion Week, I’m contributing to The Zoe Report, and I’m finishing a feature for Refinery29 on a freelance basis. I’m still writing for them despite leaving my full-time role. I’m also launching my own website, where I’ll be able to write whatever my heart desires. Are high demands for content creation in digital media exhilarating or excessive? I think I’m kind of on that seesaw of feeling both, depending on what mood I’m in and what day you catch me on. I definitely think it’s exhilarating that everyone has the chance to create their own platform for what they believe. I’ve been fortunate enough to build that personal platform up—and to eventually leave my job to pursue it.
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What can we expect to see on your website? It’s essentially going to be an extension of what I’ve built on Instagram over the years. I’ll be doing a bunch of city guides, and New York shopping and food guides. It’ll be a place to discover new brands and passions. Fashion is where my heart is, but I’m looking forward to expanding my eye, especially with design collaborations. I’m not ready to start my own clothing brand quite yet, but have a happy medium, doing collaborations with brands I love. Do you classify yourself as an influencer? I grapple with this a lot. I wish the term “influencer” hadn’t become such a dirty word. Overall, I do consider myself an influencer, because I work with brands and influence people to buy certain products. But it’s truly all relative. And who knows? A few years from now, there may even be a completely different term for what I do. You have a verified Instagram account, and more than 200K followers. Does follow count affect the content you choose to share with your fans? My gut says no. If I’ve gotten to this point, then maybe I’ve done something right. It’s important to me, when creating content, to remain as relatable as possible and portray myself as I truly am. Some things obviously remain private, but for the most part, it’s all about being yourself and posting content that inspires and informs. What are your secrets for creating an aesthetically pleasing Instagram feed? Find what works for you, and do what comes naturally. If anything feels forced, then it’s going to come off as forced. Be sure to stay authentic and consistent. Follow your eye, heart, and gut. What I post may look like a theme, as it does have a warm vintage-inspired vibe, but that’s just who I am. How do your brand collaborations come about? I really started forming a lot of my working relationships when I became an editor at Refinery29. So much of being an editor requires making connections, so it really came from the day-to-day work and being out and about in the industry. The industry is a lot about who you know, making connections, and building a network, and it’s cool to see how relationships I’ve made have evolved over time. As cliché as this sounds, don’t burn any bridges, because the more time you spend in the fashion industry, the smaller it gets. It’s important to be kind to everyone, because they will likely show up again at some point in your life. It’s the lasting, consistent relationships with brands, publicists, and co-workers that matter a ton. How do you balance personal and sponsored ad posts in your feed? I keep things generally consistent. I try to post one to three times a day, but even today, I’ve been so busy that I might not make a post, and that’s okay. As long as there’s something, whether it’s personal or a paid post, I find that it all evens out in the end. Which 2018 trend have you brought into the new year, and which 2019 trend are you excited to sport? Trends that are crossing into the new year from the end of 2018 would have to be the resurgence of all things
’80s: shoulder pads, statement jewelry, power dressing, and sequin dresses. In 2019, I’m excited to be even more adventurous with my accessories choices—hair clips, headbands, and bucket hats are all fair game. As a vintage clothing fan, what past era would you have loved to live in? The ’60s. I frequent a vintage store that actually puts the decade on the tag of the clothing items, and a majority of the pieces I purchase from that store are labeled as the ’60s. I’m also a fan of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. The costume design and looks from the show are amazing. Even if I were alive during that era, I definitely would have found a way to stand out and be noticed in the fashion world, somehow, even if not as an “influencer.”
TOTALLY RETRO
(From top) '80s-esque sequins and shoulder pads at Balmain, '60s model Virginia Wonnacott, and power dressing at Emilia Wickstead
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MEDIAMoment
WHAT IS THE
FUTURE OF PRINT? Fact is fact: Many legacy media publishers are moving away from print editions in favor of digital-only platforms consisting of websites, social media platforms, and distribution partnerships with global content providers. So how will this industry-wide disruption play out for your favorite mags? Read on! BY sabrina talbert
As a young girl who made it a priority to read and collect magazines—Teen Vogue and Seventeen were my favorites—I was dismayed to learn that some of my favorite publications no longer exist in print form. (Bye, Glamour!) With the advancement of technology and the rise of digital media, it seems like print media might be on its way out. To explore how technology is having an impact on media, LIM College conducted a survey of its students to explore their relationships with various forms of media. The results revealed that a whopping 65 percent of students prefer to consume free content via social media. However, 25 percent of participants said they would subscribe to print magazines over online magazines, while 9 percent said they would choose online over print. So, what does this tell us about the need for print media?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Print vs. Digital Media, By The Numbers
LIM COLLEGE surveyed 119 of its students about the current media landscape to find out how and where Gen Z is getting its news, fashion and otherwise. The results are below.
shutterstock (5); charisse kenion (1)
Where do you get your fashion updates from? SURVEY SAYS: 58.2% get updates solely from social media 39.5% get updates from magazines, social media and blogs 2.3% get updates solely from magazines
From a financial perspective, just saying no to print can seriously cut costs; creating a print piece means that money is spent to print and distribute copies of the magazine and to pay the salaries of employees and freelancers. But while some publications might be better off financially by cutting out a print edition, it’s important to consider how much of an audience will be retained with a digital-only version. In the past, having print media has played a major role in how much publicity goes to a brand. When you go to your local supermarket, you may notice publications such as Vogue, Elle, and People at the checkout counter. Though it might not seem like they’re making an impact, having the print editions there does make a difference. For many of us, seeing the names of magazines on a daily basis helps keep the publication’s brand fresh in our minds, and although most people aren’t prone to actually purchase the magazines, it reminds us that those publications still exist.
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Some good news: Not all magazine sales are in decline—and fashion might be contributing to the gains. Subscriptions to The New Yorker have increased significantly over the past two years. As much as I would like to give credit solely to the public’s desire to educate and entertain themselves with quality content about news and culture, I have to give some of the credit for that surge to fashion. Every subscription to The New Yorker comes with a trendy tote bag, which, in my opinion, has become a staple piece in the closet of college students across NYC. Seeing somebody with a New Yorker bag triggers the same effect as seeing a college kid wearing a certain brand of sneakers. Instant brand awareness! But back to print…going forward, will magazines find another way to advertise themselves? Will cutting print out of the picture lead to a loss of readership for some of our favorite publications? When we asked the LIM student body whether they think print will be gone for good, the results were split almost evenly among yes, no, and maybe. Many students said that they also read and collected magazines when they were younger, which makes the transition bittersweet for Gen Z, too. Some of us still enjoy having something tangible to read. Others find print magazines to be purposeless and are more drawn to the idea of speedy unlimited content with no purchase required. The thought of having print around for years to come may be our preteen nostalgia kicking in, but at the end of the day, only time will tell the fate of print publications.
How many magazines have you subscribed to in the past? SURVEY SAYS: 70.9% have subscribed to 0–2 magazines 21.9% have subscribed to 3–4 magazines 7.2% subscribed to 5 or more magazines What is the biggest advantage of reading online magazines? SURVEY SAYS: 50.9% say quick updates are the biggest advantage 21.8% say unlimited content is the biggest advantage 16.8% say being tech-friendly is the biggest advantage 10.5% say low cost is the biggest advantage Would you be more likely to purchase print magazine or online magazine subscriptions or prefer free content via social media? SURVEY SAYS: 65.6% would prefer free content via social media 25.2% would purchase print magazine subscriptions 9.2% would purchase online magazine subscriptions In your opinion, will technological advances wipe out the print industry? SURVEY SAYS: 35.3% Maybe 33.6% No 31.1% Yes
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ChicMusts
Givenchy
brandon maxwell oscar de la renta
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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balenciaga leather hotel key chain, $250, net-a-porter.com
jw anderson + Gilbert & George printed silk-twill shirt, $610, net-a-porter.com
stella mccartney Amal tie-back crepe dress, $1,612, matchesfashion.com
dior Color Quake 1 sunglasses, $383, matchesfashion.com
NORMA KAMALI double-breasted midcalf trench, $385, normakamali.com
aspen GOLD
carolina herrera
It’s the sweetest honey and brightest sunset shade to hit the Spring ’19 shows.
MONSE
firstview (5); all others courtesy
dries van noten sequin fringe hobo bag, $895, saksfifthavenue.com
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ACNE STUDIOS motorcycle jacket, $1,550, acnestudios.com
christian louboutin Drama 70 studded patent-leather slingback pumps, $945, net-a-porter.com
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manInTheSquare
influencer Edition
Cherlenys, eighth-Grade Advisor, Washington Heights, NY
What does the word “influencer” mean? Look at Cardi B. She’s a rapper and also a fashion icon, and I think she wore so much Fashion Nova that they invited her to collaborate on a collection. Are you an influencer? I’ve had green hair before and students told me, “I want to dye my hair now too because I like that peacock look you have.”
As we cover the influence of, well, influencers, we took to Times Square to see how people perceived these media moguls. We asked who inspired them, tested some basic industry-specific terms, and found out just how insider our interviewees were themselves.
Jalene, Personal Chef, New York, NY
What brand would sponsor you? From what I’m wearing today, it would be the Gap. But also Steve Madden because I’m a heel girl…can’t see that today, but I am!
photography by ryan liu
Maria, Graduate Student, Miami, FL
Udaya, Student, Staten Island, NY Do you have any fake followers? Fake people or bots? Both, I guess. What does the word “influencer” mean? Someone you might want to be in the future.
Darby, seventh-Grade Advisor, Jacksonville, FL
Who is your style icon? I really follow K-pop and J-pop fashion. But as for an icon, I guess I would have to say Safiya Nygaard from BuzzFeed. Do you have any fake followers? I don’t know…God, I hope not. What does the word “influencer” mean? They’re the ones who get free stuff from companies. What is Supreme? Like…from American Horror Story?
Biker Shorts on the Runway As seen at Fendi Spring ’19… can they fly at work, too?
Who is your style icon? Rihanna could wear a paper bag and it’s like, wow! Are you an influencer? If I influence someone, it would totally be by accident. How would your boss feel if you walked into work wearing biker shorts? That would be a, “So you have other clothing, correct?”
Brooke, Student, Pottsville, PA
How many followers do you have on Instagram? 751, I think. Are you an influencer? I think I am.
Angelina, Student, Staten Island, NY Jada, Student, Bronx, NY
Joe, Construction Site Project Manager, Pottsville, PA Who is your style icon? Will Smith. What brand would sponsor you? Levi’s and Carhartt. Are biker shorts acceptable at work? I only wear camo shorts.
Who is your style icon? Billie Eilish. Are biker shorts acceptable at school? Yeah! Students wear bandanas as shirts.
What brand would sponsor you? Any brand with sports clothing or big comfy clothing…like Old Navy!
Aisha, HairStylist, New York, NY Who is your style icon? RuPaul…do you know who that is? Of course! Are you an influencer? I have my days. Are biker shorts acceptable at work? If they’re black, yeah, because I work in a beauty salon.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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#findLIMinNYC
Fashion. Business. Education. Find your perfect fit at LIMcollege.edu
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#findLIMinNYC
Fashion. Business. Education. Find your perfect fit at LIMcollege.edu
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